NomadGuide CHIANG MAI guide book preview

NomadGuide

CHIANG MAI

Contents Why Chiang Mai?

1

The Geography of Chiang Mai

4

Administrative Divisions of Thailand The Whereabouts of Chiang Mai City Layout & Navigation Climate & Weather Conditions

Dates & Times, Weights & Measures

4 4 8 11

17

World Time Zone & Sunrise/Sunset/Daylight Hours Thai Units of Weight & Measure Buddhist Calendar & National Holidays/Observances

Power Supply

17 17 17

20

Mains Supply, Safety Standards & Electrical Compatibility Plug Types Electrical Outlets Local Power Outages & Back-up Energy Sources

Money Matters

20 20 21 21

23

Thai Currency Currency Exchange Card Transactions Thai Banking Services Bank Branches/Sub-branches & Facilities ATMs Opening & Operating a Thai Savings Account Internet/Mobile Banking Functions & Registration Security of Online/ATM Banking Transactions Thai Fixed & Foreign Currency Deposit Accounts Taxes VAT Personal Income Tax

Getting Here By Air Current Flight Schedules to Chiang Mai Chiang Mai Airport & Onward Transportation By Train Current Timetable & Ticket Classes/Fares from Bangkok

23 25 28 29 29 30 33 37 38 39 39 39 40

43 43 43 47 49 49

Chiang Mai Railway Station & Onward Transportation By Bus Classes & Fares/Booking Channels from Bangkok Chiang Mai Bus Stations & Onward Transportation

Getting Around

53 54 54 56

60

On Foot Motorcycle Taxi Tuk Tuk Taxi Songthaew Minivan City Bus Bicycle Scooter/Motorbike

Health & Safety Natural Hazards Street Dogs Wild Animals & Insect Pests Earthquakes Flash Flooding Environmental Hazards Seasonal Crop Burning Exhaust Emissions Traffic & Roadside Hazards Staying Safe as a Pedestrian Staying Safe as a Rider In the Event of a Road Traffic Accident Infectious Diseases & Non-communicable Disorders Routine Vaccinations Rabies Japanese Encephalitis Malaria Dengue Fever Travellers’ Diarrhoea & Food/Water Poisoning Public Conveniences Sunburn & Heatstroke Health Care Services Pharmacies Optical Stores & Ophthalmologists Dentists Hospitals, Emergency Medical Services & Health Clinics Crime, Scams & Anti-social Behaviour Theft

60 60 61 62 63 75 75 78 80

85 85 85 85 89 90 90 90 94 95 96 98 101 103 103 103 104 105 105 107 110 111 113 113 114 115 115 117 117

Serious Crime Scams Begging & Prostitution Noise Pollution Dual-pricing & Bargaining Security of Valuables Passport Protection & Consular Assistance Financial Precautions & ATM/Card Fraud Internet Shopping & Card Safety Dynamic Currency Conversion Political Conflict

Thai Law

118 119 122 123 124 127 127 129 133 134 135

137

Royal Thai Police Lèse Majesté Customs Regulations Drugs Alcohol & Tobacco Littering Legal Driving Requirements Thai Driving Licence Application Procedure

Immigration Matters Thailand’s Entry Requirements Immigration Procedure at a Port of Entry into Thailand Immigration Procedure at a Port of Exit from Thailand Thai Entry Permits Visa Exemption Visa On Arrival Visa In Advance Education & Tourist Visas ACMECS Single Visa Border Run Visa Run Back-to-back Thai Entry Permits Chiang Mai Immigration Services Visa Extension Re-entry Permit Residence Certificate Change of Address Notification 90 Day Notification Overstaying your Thai Entry Permit The Legality of Working Online as a Digital Nomad in Chiang Mai ‘Alien’ Identification

137 138 139 139 140 141 141 145

157 158 160 163 164 167 170 174 176 195 198 208 231 235 235 242 246 250 253 261 262 264

Thai Culture

266

Buddhism & Thai Social Customs Traditional Thai Salutation Acts of Culturally-inappropriate Behaviour ‘Land of Smiles’ Standards of Dress & Personal Hygiene Dining Etiquette

Language & Communication

266 267 267 268 269 269

270

The Thai Adoption of English as a Second Language Effective Communication Strategies Learning Thai Functional Words & Phrases Thai Script & Transliteration into English Study Materials & Resources, Tuition & Language Exchange

Accommodation

270 270 270 271 272 272

274

Housing Options Types of Rental Property Condominium Serviced Apartment Thai Style Apartment House/Townhouse & Moo Baan Fittings, Fixtures, Furnishings & Amenities Rental Rates & Terms Electricity, Water & Internet Service Provision Tariffs Seasonal Availability & Prevailing Housing Market Pre-booking & Temporary Accommodation Property Search Preparation Neighbourhoods of Chiang Mai Property Hunting Tactics Property Inspections Fixed-term Rental Contracts Moving & Settling in

Routine Essentials Laundry Drinking Water Utility Bills Food & Drink Super-/Hypermarkets & Warehouse Clubs Speciality Stores Convenience Stores Day Markets

274 274 275 276 277 278 279 281 282 284 284 285 287 288 291 297 298

301 301 304 307 315 315 320 322 324

Night Markets Food Courts/Food Parks Restaurants Food Delivery

Data & Voice Services

325 325 326 328

330

Thai SIM Cards Acquisition Registration Activation Topping Up Adding Voice/Data Packages Getting Connected to the Internet Home Broadband (Cable, DSL & Fibre-optic) Mobile Internet (3G/4G) WiFi Internet Cafés Internet Censorship & Security Internet Gateways

Chiang Mai Digital Nomad Resources

330 330 332 333 333 337 339 340 346 349 355 357 358

359

Community Engagement Work Spaces Libraries Co-working Spaces Coffee Shops

Getting Out Moving on from Chiang Mai By Air Current Flight Schedules from Chiang Mai By Train Current Timetable & Ticket Classes/Fares to Bangkok By Bus Classes & Fares/Booking Channels to Bangkok & Laos VAT Refund for Tourists

359 360 360 362 371

374 374 377 377 381 381 385 385 386

Why Chiang Mai? Hailed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) as a “cultural and natural wonderland with ethnic diversity, a multitude of attractions and welcoming hospitality”, Chiang Mai attracted over 17.3 million visitors, tourists and excursionists in 2014 and has become the second most visited destination in Thailand. At the same time, the city is home to an estimated 30-40,000 expats and, more pertinently, a burgeoning number of Digital Nomads. Widely acknowledged as one of the most liveable cities in the whole of Asia, if not the world, Chiang Mai’s myriad of virtues have firmly established it as the prime destination on the planet for Digital Nomads. Indeed, such is the appeal of living in Chiang Mai that even among locationindependents, extensions of stay and repeat visits to the city are the norm.

LOW LIVING COSTS While there are presently scant opportunities in Chiang Mai to secure funding for startups, the city is second to very few locations in the world in terms of affordability; indeed, even within Thailand, your purchasing power in Chiang Mai is, on average, at least twice that in Bangkok. The low cost –and often exceptional value- of ‘big ticket’ items (namely, food, rental accommodation and utilities, voice and data services, transportation and fuel) relative to those in the west allows financially-sensitive bootstrapping Digital Nomads in particular to leverage a high degree of currency arbitrage –by virtue of being based in Chiang Mai- and, insodoing, minimise their burn rate and maximise their runway.

HIGH COMFORT LEVELS Chiang Mai boasts an extensive selection and quality of residential real estate, everyday necessities, material goods and modern conveniences to suit every taste, budget and manner of lifestyle. Their relative ease of accessibility permits Digital Nomads to maximise their time and energies on developing, growing and/or maintaining their own online enterprises. Although Chiang Mai lacks city-wide mass transit systems, road infrastructure is modern and generally sound, and there’s a wide range of local transportation options available for getting around.

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City Layout & Navigation Chiang Mai city is comparatively small, flat, compact and easily navigable with an extensive network of well maintained roads, frequent signage (typically in English and Thai) and, for the most part, uncongested and free-flowing traffic. In the very heart of the municipality is the ‘Old City’, whose origins date back to the late 13 th century and which serves as a useful reference point against which to orientate yourself whilst navigating the city. Bounded on all sides by a moat (walled in parts), the ‘Old City’ doesn’t quite form a perfect square shape with the eastern and western sides each measuring 2km in length while the northern and southern edges are 1.8km long apiece.

On each side of the moat is a one-way ring road; traffic on the inner ring road flows anticlockwise whereas that on the outer ring road circulates in a clockwise direction. For vehicles and pedestrians to transfer between inner and outer ring roads (or vice versa), there are a number of two-way single-lane causeways at regular intervals along the moat: three on the western side, two on the southern and four on each of the northern and eastern edges. Additionally, there are five principal ‘gates’ (pratu) along the length of the moat: Chiang Mai and Saen Pung Gates in the south, Suan Dok Gate in the west and Chang Phuak Gate in the north all allow single-file traffic and those on foot to transfer between inner and outer ring roads while the plaza facing Tha Phae Gate in the east is entirely pedestrianised. The various points at which vehicles can cross the moat (in both directions) are marked by the ‘u-turn’ symbol on the road surface of the outside lane. Moreover, at each corner of the ‘Old City’ -inside the moat- are four fortified bastions (jaeng): Hua Lin Corner in the north west, Si Phum Corner in the north east, Katam Corner in the south east and Ku Huang Corner in the south west.

At various points along the outer ring road of the ‘Old City’ radiate arteries connecting downtown Chiang Mai with the surrounding municipal area, outlying suburbs and adjoining districts. The most important of which are Mahidol Road (Highway 1141) in the south west; Tha Phae Road –the city’s main thoroughfare and which intersects with Chang Klan Road (the city’s principal centre of commerce) then, after crossing the Ping River at Nawarat Bridge, becomes Charoen Muang Road (Highway 1006 which runs directly to Chiang Mai Railway Station)- in the east; Changpuak Road (Highway 107) in the north as well as Huaykaew Road (Highway 1004) in the north west and Suthep Road in the west (between which lie the popular ‘Nimman’ area and, further along, Chiang Mai University’s main campus). The northern end of Nimmanahaeminda Page | 8

October

November

December

Temperature and humidity alike start to decrease noticeably throughout October as the rainy season transitions into the dry and cool season. Both the volume and frequency of rainfall is around half that which occurs in September with the worst of the wet weather all but spent by the middle to the end of October. As the rain clouds slowly clear, days become mostly sunny again (over 7 hours, on average, each day).

Temperature and humidity continue to fall steadily during November and rainfall is half that experienced in the previous month. Clear, sunny skies continue to dominate daylight hours. Indeed, November is considered by many as offering the most favourable weather conditions of any month in the year. It’s therefore not without good reason that the tourist season starts to gather momentum at this time of year.

Temperatures decline further throughout December and while days are still agreeably warm, the hours between sunset and sunrise start to feel noticeably cooler. With seldom any rainfall, skies invariably remain clear and sunny.

For the current weather conditions in Chiang Mai together with a 7 day forecast, visit the web site of the Thai Meteorological Department (TMD) here.

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The bulk of cash machines in Chiang Mai bear the insignia of one or more of the major global interbank networks, namely Plus (managed by Visa) as well as Maestro and Cirrus (both operated by MasterCard); hence an ATM, debit, credit or pre-paid foreign currency card upon which is displayed the Visa logo should be accepted at any ATM showing the Plus symbol; similarly, a MasterCard can normally be used at any ATM exhibiting either the Maestro or Cirrus symbols. Cash machines which accept China UnionPay (CUP) bank cards are equally as widespread throughout the city but less so ATMs which accept JCB, American Express (AmEx), Discover and Diners Club bank cards. For those in possession of a non-Thai ATM, debit, credit or pre-paid foreign currency card whose PIN code is 5 or more digits in length and/or alphanumeric, it’s recommended that the PIN be amended to 4 numbers only before arriving in Thailand since, despite it being less secure, some ATMs here don’t accept PIN codes of 5 or more digits and/or those that contain letters. To ascertain exactly how much baht would be received for a set amount and designation of foreign currency at each of the 8 major Thai banks (Bangkok Bank, Krungsri (Bank of Ayudhya), Government Savings Bank, Kasikorn Bank, Krungthai Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, Thai Military Bank and Thanachart Bank) as well as at United Overseas Bank (UOB) and Commerce International Merchant Bankers (CIMB)), visit the ‘Day-to-Day Data’ web site here. Each Thai bank sets a limit on the number of banknotes that its ATMs will dispense per withdrawal. The standard cap is 20 banknotes for a single ATM transaction thus, with 1000 baht being the highest denomination of Thai banknote, permitting a maximum of 20,000 baht to be withdrawn at any one time; at the time of writing, however, the cash machines of a few Thai banks (most notably, Krungsri (Bank of Ayudhya) and Thai Military Bank) dispense up to 30 banknotes per transaction therefore equating to a maximum withdrawal of 30,000 baht. Second and subsequent cash withdrawals can then be carried out at the same (or different) ATM in accordance with the remaining balance on your card, the availability of banknotes in the cash machine and the daily withdrawal limits imposed by both the card issuer and the ATM provider. Unlike in some countries, the ATMs of Thai banks will first dispense your cash then prompt for a receipt before returning your card. Regrettably, using a Visa or MasterCard debit, credit or foreign currency card issued outside of Thailand at a cash machine of any Thai bank in Chiang Mai now incurs a hefty 200 baht ATM fee per withdrawal (with effect from the beginning of November 2015); at the time of writing, the Japanese bank AEON offers the least punitive ATM Page | 32

Managed by the ‘Airports of Thailand’ (AOT) public company, Chiang Mai Airport (here) is conveniently situated around 3 to 4 km to the south west of the ‘Old City’ with driving time between the two only 10 to 15 minutes under normal traffic conditions; the one-way access road that leads to the airport is located off Sanambin (Airport) Road around 250m or so west of the former main Chiang Mai Immigration office and more or less facing the main entrance to the Wing 41 Royal Thai Air Force (RTAF) base. Comparatively small, straightforward to navigate and –periodic influxes of Chinese tour groups aside- seldom overcrowded, the single airport building comprises two interconnected passenger terminals over as many levels (with separate –baggage-screened- entrances for domestic and international departures, 25 airline check-in desks, passport control (immigration (security) checkpoint), domestic and international baggage claim areas, customs house and the arrivals hall on the ground floor while both the domestic and international departure lounges –and their respective boarding gates- are located on the upper, mezzanine floor). The AOT web site for Chiang Mai Airport (here) is a mine of valuable –if, in places, somewhat out-of-date- information and provides, among other things, real-time flight status (for both arrivals and departures), terminal maps as well as details of the different facilities and services available within the airport including free WiFi access (variously provided by AIS, dtac and TrueMove H), restaurants, ATMs and currency exchange bureaux from a number of Thai banks, a ‘Thailand Post’ post office, retail stores (including a small ‘Royal Project’ shop), Tourist Police kiosk, left luggage (open between 07:00 and 21:00 daily and costing 200 baht for 24 hours storage), a couple of information counters, car rental and, outside, vehicle parking (the lot of which is situated directly in front of the two passenger terminals with capacity for almost 450 vehicles; free of charge indefinitely for scooters/motorbikes and the first 8 minutes for cars, with tiered rates thereafter up to 200/250 baht per 24 hour period); there is, additionally, an unofficial Chiang Mai Airport guide (here), its most useful feature being a photo gallery of the airport interior and surrounding environment. Those arriving into Chiang Mai Airport on a domestic flight need only disembark their plane, enter the terminal building, retrieve any luggage from the respective baggage claim area and clear customs before being in a position to take onward transportation into the city. On the other hand, those arriving by air from outside of Thailand (after Page | 47

Getting Around On Foot Though the least time-efficient, navigating Chiang Mai on foot of course costs absolutely nothing, affords obvious health benefits (subject, that is, to your staying safe as a pedestrian as described in the ‘Health & Safety’ chapter) and is indisputably the most effective way to get acquainted with and to truly explore the city. The relatively small size and flat, compact nature of the city means walking distances should be more than manageable for most; by way of illustration, to walk around the entire outside of the ‘Old City’, for example, should take no more than two hours at a relaxed pace. In the interests of time and/or convenience, however, there are plenty of alternative means of conveyance for getting around locally.

Motorcycle Taxi Contrary to popular belief, motorcycle taxis have in fact been represented in strategically convenient locations throughout Chiang Mai for quite some time though, admittedly, to nowhere near the extent they exist in Bangkok, for example. For the most part, however, motorcycle taxi drivers went uncertified with local authorities as a form of public transport and, being somewhat inconspicuous, were also easily overlooked. In a bid to legitimise and revitalise their operation as well as further augment the city’s local transportation options, more than 80 drivers in Mueang Chiang Mai (as well as 96 from the surrounding districts) have –with effect from September 2015- been registered and issued with official high visibility, numbered, yellow-striped pink vests. Almost 60 of the drivers are stationed at the Provincial Arcade Bus Station (specifically, next to platform 20 of Terminal 2, just off to the side of the main entrance of Terminal 3, and between Star Avenue mall and Terminal 3); the remaining drivers are distributed more or less equally between Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 1 (here), Wichayanon Road near Nakornping Bridge (here), just in front of Ton Payom day market (here) as well as at the entrance to City Hall (here). Although not really a mode of transport suitable for those with oversized or lots of luggage, passengers are nevertheless issued with a helmet (in accordance with Thai law) and, being small and manoeuvrable, motorcycle taxis invariably reach places otherwise inaccessible to larger vehicles and their destination way ahead of anything on three or four wheels! Fares are distance-dependent such that the further you go, the more cost-effective the ride; as a guide, by motorcycle taxi from the Arcade Bus Station, it costs 40 baht to travel about 1km (to CentralFestival shopping mall, for example) but

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Fixed route red songthaew can easily be distinguished from all other red songthaew by virtue of a broad yellow flash down each side of the vehicle as well as a sign board denoting the respective route number both atop the windscreen and on one side of the vehicle (pictured).

Those songthaew painted in colours other than red travel between Mueang Chiang Mai and the surrounding districts along fixed routes. Like with ‘rot daeng’ though, they can be flagged down from the roadside or, alternatively, boarded from one or more of the locations at which they’re stationed; specifically, the songthaew ‘depots’ on Atsadathon Road (here), at Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 1 (here), on Kaeo Nawarat Soi 3 (here), on the Lamphun Road next to the Iron Bridge (here), on Wua Lai Road (here), and along Wichayanon and Praisanee Roads near Kad Luang Warorot/Ton Lam Yai (here). Each of the yellow, green, white, blue and orange songthaew normally has its destination displayed in Thai on a board atop the vehicle above the windscreen.

YELLOW SONGTHAEW Yellow songthaew (‘rot leang’) run from the terminus along Wichayanon and Praisanee Roads to the district of Mae Rim ( ) and, separately, to the district of Doi Saket ( ); from Chiang Mai Bus Terminal 1 to the district of Chom Thong (จ ท ง); from the terminus on Wua Lai Road to the districts of Hang Dong (หาง ง) and San Pa Tong ( า ง); from the terminus on Atsadathon Road –via both Wua Lai and Wichayanon/Praisanee Roads- to the districts of Hang Dong and San Pa Tong; and from the terminus on Kaeo Nawarat Soi 3 to the district of Doi Saket. Fares vary from 15 to 40 baht depending on distance and operating hours between 07:00 and 21:00 every day of the week with departures in accordance with demand (but typically every 5 to 15 minutes).

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Route 1 Promenada Resort Mall (depart)

Mon - Sun Fri - Sun 11:30 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 18:00 19:00 20:00 21:00 22:30

Amora Tapae Hotel (depart)

11:50 13:20 14:20 15:20 16:20 18:20 19:20 20:20 21:20

22:50

Imperial Mae Ping Hotel (depart)

11:55 13:25 14:25 15:25 16:25 18:25 19:25 20:25 21:25

22:55

Le Meridien Hotel (depart)

11:58 13:30 14:30 15:30 16:30 18:30 19:30 20:30 21:30

22:58

Promenada Resort Mall (arrive)

12:10 13:42 14:42 15:42 17:30 18:55 19:42 20:42

-

-

Route 2 Promenada Resort Mall (depart)

Mon - Sun Fri - Sun 11:30 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 18:00 19:00 20:00 21:00 22:00

Shangri-La Hotel (depart)

11:50 13:20 14:20 15:20 16:20 18:20 19:20 20:20 21:20

22:10

Empress Hotel (depart)

11:55 13:25 14:25 15:25 16:25 18:25 19:25 20:25 21:25

22:15

Holiday Inn (depart)

12:00 13:30 14:30 15:30 16:30 18:30 19:30 20:30 21:30

22:20

Promenada Resort Mall (arrive)

12:10 13:40 14:40 15:40 16:40 18:50 19:40 20:40

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Scooter/Motorbike Arguably the most popular and convenient way of getting around Chiang Mai for the Digital Nomad (and indeed Thai people!), riding a scooter/motorbike allows you the freedom to see the most of the city -and beyond- in the shortest possible time (traffic congestion aside) not to mention just how much fun it can be! Shops renting scooters in particular outnumber those offering bicycles for hire and even taking into account the added fuel costs, represent outstanding value for money.

There are numerous places throughout Chiang Mai (particularly in and around the ‘Old City’) from independent bike shops to some travel agencies and tourist lodgings which offer hire of scooters/motorcycles for anything from a day or week to a month or more. Rental prices vary in accordance with the age of the vehicle, the size of the engine (from 100cc scooters to 650cc sports bikes), transmission (manual shift, semiautomatic (5 gears and no clutch) and fully automatic), the time of year and the hire term; the older the bike, the smaller the engine, the less automated the transmission, the further from the tourist season and the longer the rental period, the greater the concession and the more negotiable the hire cost. Paid up front in cash and generally non-refundable, prices for 100cc to 125cc scooters range from 50 to 350 baht for daily hire and 1500 to 3000 baht for monthly hire with even more favourable rates when taken over a longer term; although freely supplied with a lockable security chain and usually a basic (99 baht) helmet or two, it’s definitely worth investing in your own – better quality- gear (particularly a ‘Thai Industrial Standards Institute’ (TISI)-certified helmet with full face visor and jaw protection) if taking a scooter/motorbike over a long-term. Rates, customer service, and the make, styling and condition of vehicles do differ between hirers so it’s advisable to first shop around and not to think twice about bargaining especially during the low season and/or for rentals of a month or longer. Some hirers additionally offer free delivery and/or pick-up of their scooters/motorbikes though this may be conditional to a minimum rental term and only within certain areas of the city. The most commonly available models of scooter include the Air Blade, Click, Dream, PCX, Scoopy, Spacy and Wave from Honda as well as the Fino, Mio and Nouvo from Yamaha with the 125cc fully automatic vehicles offering the best all-round performance when used both within the city and further afield (though bikes with a smaller engine size are perfectly suitable for just getting Page | 80

Situated in a low-lying bowl-shaped valley, traversed by a major river and lacking a suitably equipped storm drainage system, it’s little wonder that Chiang Mai is commonly subject to flash flooding following heavy downpours and which can be particularly severe during the peak monsoon rains of August and September. Everywhere in the city is at risk but the areas most prone to localised flooding lie either side of the Ping River downstream of Nawarat Bridge (such as along Chang Klan, Charoen Prathet and Chiang Mai-Lamphun Roads). While seasonal rains are often torrential (albeit usually short-lived), municipality officials and locals alike are normally quick to respond setting up mobile pumps and laying down sandbags to alleviate the impact of the excess water. During extreme years though, prolonged periods of intense rainfall can leave Chiang Mai’s roads and the lower storeys of buildings inundated not just for a matter of hours but rather for days on end and, in the process, cut off isolating some communities. The last incidence of wide-scale flooding in the city occurred at the end of September 2011 –and, in places, lasted the best part of a weekwhen the Ping River rose to more than 4.9m at Nawarat Bridge, roughly 35% higher than the 3.7m threshold at which the river will burst it’s banks. Some parts of Chiang Mai closest to the river were submerged under 60cm or more of water making certain roads impassable by all but 4 wheel drive vehicles (or, in the case of some resourceful locals, by boat!), prompting the suspension of bus and train services, causing disruption to local water and electricity supplies, heightening the threat of waterborne diseases, boosting mosquito numbers as well as ousting snakes, rats, cockroaches and noxious waste materials from the underlying sewers. Thailand’s Royal Irrigation Department (RID) records the water level of the Ping River at the Nawarat Bridge (‘P.1’) hydrological survey station (pictured) on an hourly basis during critical periods; useful as an early warning system during the rainy season, the RID publicises the readings (colour-coded in red) here as well as on electronic notice boards (such as that pictured) in those areas either side of the river most at risk of flooding.

Environmental Hazards Local farmers throughout northern Thailand as well as those in neighbouring Laos and Myanmar continue to practice traditional ‘slash and burn’ typically between late Page | 90

Thai Driving Licence Although vehicle rental agencies in Chiang Mai seldom ask you to present a driving licence (of any description) as a condition of hiring either a scooter/motorbike or car, being in possession of an appropriate driving licence is not only a legal requirement for driving on Thailand’s public roads –in accordance with the Thai ‘Motor Vehicle Act’ B.E. 2522 (1979)- but is also necessary to validate the insurance policy you’re lawfully obliged to obtain when renting a vehicle. Thailand is, in fact, a signatory of the 1949 Geneva Convention on Road Traffic (itself a United Nations treaty) meaning that it has ratified a reciprocal agreement with each of the participant countries listed here (save for Switzerland) such that foreign visitors (specifically those on a Tourist Visa, Visa Exemption or Visa On Arrival) from any of the said countries are lawfully permitted to drive on Thailand’s public roads using a valid driving licence from their home country for up to one year from their date of arrival in Thailand. In reality, however, a driving licence from your home country will almost certainly not be accepted as an official document by either police or motor vehicle insurers in Chiang Mai. Instead, it’s strongly recommended you obtain a 1949 International Driving Permit (IDP) –issued, for a token fee, normally by an automobile club or motorists association (such as the AA or RAC in the UK, the AAA or NRMA in Australia, and the AAA or NAC in the USA) in your home country- before arriving in Thailand; do note though that an IDP should be in English (or, if not, a notarised copy thereof translated into either English or Thai), up-to-date, valid for whichever class(es) of vehicle (scooter/motorbike and/or car) you wish to drive on Thailand’s public roads and always carried with the original driving licence from your home country. While an IDP is normally valid for 12 months from the date it was issued, many Thai motor vehicle insurance companies stipulate that an IDP is only valid for use with an existing motor insurance policy for a certain period of time (usually 60 or 90 consecutive days from the date you enter Thailand) after which, to continue to be fully covered, the holder is required to obtain a Thai driving licence. In Thailand, the Department of Land Transport (DLT) is responsible for the issuance of driving licences of which there are ten separate types but only four of potential value to the Digital Nomad:  ‘Temporary Car’ – licence now valid for two years from the date of issue.  ‘Temporary Motorcycle’ – licence now valid for two years from the date of issue; covers both motorbikes and scooters, and suitable for all sizes of engine.

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Immigration Matters In respect of living in Thailand, the topic which prompts more questions from foreigners than any other is that pertaining to Thai immigration laws. Oftentimes though, raising such matters is entirely defensible since navigating various resources in pursuit of intelligible, comprehensive, accurate, up-to-date and properly termed immigration information suited to your own personal circumstances can be nothing short of a minefield. In fact, an English translation of the Thai ‘Immigration Act’ B.E. 2522 (1979) is available but carries no judicial effect whatsoever as only the original Thai version (otherwise inaccessible to those who do not read Thai) conveys the precise interpretation of the law. In addition to the sheer complexity of the legislation, amendments are promulgated on a regular enough basis, frequently with little or no notice, often without any period of grace and seldom disbursed through official channels; worse, the exact meaning of an amendment is habitually ambiguous and invariably triggers much (often wild) speculation and second guessing among foreign residents uncertain of the repercussions and, at times, even produces inconsistencies in the application of the statutory change by immigration officials in Thailand as well as their representative bodies overseas. Thus, both before you enter Thailand as well as during your stay in the country, it’s absolutely imperative not only to acquaint yourself with those aspects of Thai immigration legislation that will impact you directly but also to keep fully appraised of -and responsive to- any amendments. Short of appointing an English speaking lawyer who specialises in Thai immigration law, the source of most practical value for disseminations concerning immigration rules and regulations is the ‘Thai visas, residency and work permits’ forum of ‘Thaivisa’ and, for general posts pertaining exclusively to Chiang Mai, the ’Chiang Mai forum’ of ‘Thaivisa’ and ‘CityNews’ of the local editorial ‘Chiang Mai Citylife’.

Governed by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA), Thailand’s Immigration Bureau (otherwise known as ‘Tor Mor’) is a specific section of the Royal Thai Police (RTP) and administers the country’s immigration laws and its amendments. Immigration officials are stationed at designated locations inside Thailand and discharge a variety of duties. Those at the principal ports of entry/exit (international airports as well as land borders with neighbouring Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia) administer admittance/departure procedures and, for incoming foreign visitors who qualify, authorise either a Visa On Arrival (VOA) or a Visa Exemption; additionally, just about every province in Thailand (as well as the ‘special administrative area’ that is Bangkok) comprises one or more immigration offices that offer a range of services including -but Page | 157

Departure and arrival schedules for both the outbound leg from Chiang Mai to Mae Sai as well as those of the return journey are tabulated below:

Chiang Mai - Mae Sai Frequency Monday only Daily Saturday only Daily Sunday - Friday Daily Daily Monday - Thursday & Saturday Friday & Sunday only Friday & Sunday only

Departure Time 05:15 06:00 07:00 08:00 09:30 12:30 14:00 16:15 16:30 17:00

Arrival Time 09:55 11:15 11:40 12:40 14:10 17:10 18:40 21:30 21:10 22:15

Bus Class VX-Class A-Class VX-Class VX-Class VX-Class VX-Class VX-Class A-Class VX-Class A-Class

Mae Sai - Chiang Mai Frequency Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Friday - Sunday

Departure Time 07:30 08:15 08:30 09:45 14:00 14:30 15:30 16:30

Arrival Time 12:05 12:55 13:45 14:25 19:15 19:10 20:10 21:10

Bus Class VX-Class VX-Class A-Class VX-Class A-Class VX-Class VX-Class VX-Class

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Thai Visa Application The Consular Section of the Royal Thai Embassy in Vientiane is located next door to the Lao-Singapore Business College (LSBC) on Rue Bourichane as marked at grid code IB212 on the ‘Hobo Maps’ area map of Vientiane here (with Talat Sao bus station at grid code IC202). It is here, at the Consular Section, that you should apply for your Thai visa and not at the chancery of the Royal Thai Embassy on Kaysone Phomvihane Avenue. The Consular Section is open Monday to Friday except on those week days which are a Lao or Thai national holiday. Although open between 08:30 and 15:30, the Consular Section only issues queue numbers for prospective visa applications between 08:30 and 11:30 so provided you’re issued a queue number earlier than 11:30, you’ll be able to submit your visa application up to midday the same morning (before they then close for lunch); the period 13:30 to 15:30 is reserved exclusively for collection of passports. Typically, the Consular Section takes a working day to process a visa application so if applying, for example, on a Tuesday morning, you’ll need to collect your passport on Wednesday afternoon (within the times stated above). The entrance to the Consular Section is located to the right of the main gate as depicted below:

Immediately upon entering the consular grounds, there is a small hut on the right-hand side directly ahead of which is a tree-studded grassed area in front of which is a covered, fan-cooled outdoor seating area and, forward of that, two counters between which is a brown door (above which is a clock); counter number 3 (to the left of the door) is marked for ‘Group Tour Only’ while the counter to the right of the door is Page | 224

Chiang Mai Immigration Services Mueang Chiang Mai encompasses no less than 3 Immigration offices –each open between 08:30 and 16:30 Monday to Friday except on those week days which fall on a Thai national holiday- although only 2 of which presently offer services as might be required by the Digital Nomad. Specifically, the issuance of a ‘Visa Extension’ and a ‘Reentry Permit’, the provision of a ‘Residence Certificate’ as well as the processing of ‘90 Day’ and ‘Change of Address’ Notifications; do note though that applications for a ‘Change of Visa’ (such as that from either a Visa Exemption or a Tourist Visa to a NonImmigrant Visa) are no longer administered at any of the Immigration offices in Chiang Mai. It should also be borne in mind that, exactly as for any type of Thai entry permit, the granting of a Visa Extension, Re-entry Permit or Residence Certificate is sanctioned entirely at the discretion of the respective immigration official.

VISA EXTENSION Although an official designation, the term ‘Visa Extension’ is actually something of a misnomer since being granted one doesn’t, in any way, prolong the shelf life of the Thai entry permit to which it applies. Rather, a Visa Extension permits an ‘extension of stay’ of an existing ‘period of stay’ or an existing ‘extension of stay’ (as applicable) and thus simply extends the amount of time that you’re lawfully permitted to remain in Thailand; that said, it’s important to be aware that the duration of an ‘extension of stay’ is commensurate with the remaining validity on the holder’s passport and, as with a ‘period of stay’ on a Thai entry permit, the moment you depart Thailand (or, more accurately, as soon as you clear passport control at the port of exit), the ‘extension of stay’ previously granted will be cancelled and any unused days on it forfeited (unless, for those in possession of a single-entry Visa In Advance, a Re-entry Permit is obtained in advance of leaving the country). As a reminder, only certain types of Thai entry permit qualify for a Visa Extension; the 15 day ‘period of stay’ on a Visa On Arrival cannot be extended (unless the holder is somehow prevented –by means beyond their control- from departing Thailand by the date their VOA expires); equally, ordinary passport holders from countries who were admitted into Thailand on a Visa Exemption by way of a bilateral agreement (irrespective of whether the ‘period of stay’ was granted for 14, 30 or 90 days) are not entitled to apply for an ‘extension of stay’. Otherwise, those who were admitted into Thailand under the Tourist Visa Exemption Scheme (for whichever of a 15 or 30 day ‘period of stay’) are eligible to apply once only for a 30 day Visa Extension whereas those who entered the country on a Tourist Visa – either single- or multiple-entry- are allowed to apply for one 30 day Visa Extension for each ‘entry’ (60 day ‘period of stay’) on their visa. On the other hand, bearers of a Page | 235

Outside of a formal business meeting, Thais rarely offer their hand to shake when meeting someone new. Instead they press their palms together in a prayer-like fashion and lower their head; this is the ‘wai’ and serves exquisitely as the traditional Thai greeting (or farewell). Starting with the hands close to and in front of the chest (the height for offering a standard wai), the higher the hands in relation to the head, the lower the head and the longer the position is held, the greater the deference the giver is demonstrating. In addition to being a mark of respect for those older or of equal or greater social status, the wai is also customary as a means of expressing gratitude or by way of an apology. As a foreigner, it’s not especially common to receive a wai from a Thai person and, equally, it’s not expected of you to initiate a wai exchange unless you’re addressing an important figure in the Thai hierarchy. In general, you shouldn’t initiate a wai to a Thai you perceive or know to be subordinate in age (younger) or status (more junior) to yourself; it’s also not necessary to wai a person who is providing you with a paid service of any kind and alternatively a simple nod and smile of acknowledgement will suffice. Otherwise, should a Thai person greet you with a wai, it is considered boorish (unless you have the privilege of being a monk or royalty) not to reciprocate the gesture (and even if you’re hands are full at the time!). Thus, it’s appropriate not to wai indiscriminately. Definitely the best way to learn is by observing locals and while it may take a bit of time to perfect both your technique and your timing, Thais will almost certainly appreciate your trying. Equally, it should be noted that greeting a Thai with whom you’re not intimate by touching, hugging or kissing them, even with the best of intentions, is deemed improper and will surely make them feel uncomfortable. While you may see two Thai friends of the same gender (men and women alike) holding hands or walking arm in arm down the street, it’s unusual to witness a romantically involved Thai couple –of any age- acting in this way. In fact, Thais frown on any public display of affection (even hugging) and it is equally as taboo to make physical contact (even a hand shake) with a member of the opposite sex with whom you’re not already well acquainted. Thais regard the feet as symbolically unclean (being in contact with the earth) and the most inferior part of the body; for this reason, you should never point at anything or anyone with your feet, or push items around or even hold open or close a door with them as doing so is deeply insulting. Moreover, don’t directly expose or touch the souls of your feet to another person or object (particularly images of Buddha or the Thai royal family), or put your feet on a chair or table, raise them over someone’s head or step over someone or their personal belongings. In contrast, the head is considered Page | 267

Language & Communication Despite Chiang Mai’s tremendous popularity among foreign visitors, English is not at all widely spoken or understood outside of formal settings or those areas of the city which are regularly patronised by tourists. Furthermore, Thais with only a limited grasp of English will often not speak it for fear of making a linguistic mistake thereby causing themselves personal embarrassment and, accordingly, a loss of ‘face’. Equally, speaking English with intelligible pronunciation often proves challenging for Thais since certain consonant and vowel sounds in English do not exist in Thai, intonation patterns between the two languages are very different as is the weight (stress) and timing (rhythm) given to a particular syllable in order to convey its proper meaning in the context of a sentence. Similarly, the imperfect form of English (‘Tinglish’) produced by Thais -due to interference from their own native language- is a common occurrence; instances of which are not only noticeable during speech but, more conspicuously, observed on various signage (that depicted represents the common difficulty for Thais in differentiating between ‘l’ and ‘r’ sounds and between ‘b’ and ‘p’ sounds). The ensuing communication barrier can, on occasions, hinder even your most fundamental of needs being met. To maximise your chances of being understood when communicating in English to a Thai who is anything other than fluent, it’s wise to grade your language by speaking in simple terms using single words rather than entire sentences, using only the present tense of verbs, omitting articles, plural forms and the word ‘to’ when using infinitives; for example, rather than the verbose “Please can you tell me where is the train station?” or even “Where is the train station?”, merely stating “train” in a raised tone (thus signifying a question) is far more likely to elicit a favourable response and, unlike in many western countries, you will not be thought less of for your brevity. Likewise, you should speak slowly (but naturally), clearly, decisively, avoid using slang, paraphrasing if necessary and being aware that raising the volume of your voice, getting flustered or exhibiting frustration will in no way facilitate their comprehension of what you’re trying to say. When querying something, ask one question at a time and await the answer before prompting another question; avoid questions that include a negative or those which require just a yes or no answer (since Thais will habitually give a positive reply regardless of what you’re asking) and never proffer what you suspect to be the answer to your own question. Although communicating only in English throughout your stay in Chiang Mai will have no major adverse impact on your life here, learning some of the native language –even Page | 270

Apartment (Serviced)  A Thai-owned residential building composed of multiple fully furnished rental units (serviced apartments) offering all the amenities of a hotel for short or long stays and, most importantly, move-in ready.  Numerous –usually convenient- locations throughout Chiang Mai including in the ‘Old City’.  Standard facilities include round-the-clock security (guards, CCTV and 24 hour reception desk), swimming pool, fitness centre/gym, parking area, maid service (daily/weekly room cleaning, change of bed linen/towels and rubbish (garbage) removal), laundry shop, on-site restaurant and, on occasion, a minimart, bakery and/or coffee shop.  Studio, one- and two-bedroom units as well as the odd penthouse (each with one or more separate bathrooms) collectively ranging in size from 28 sq m to around 350 sq m (averaging around 36 sq m for a studio room, 65 sq m for a unit with one bedroom and 95 sq m for a unit with two bedrooms) but providing more space -in which to lounge, dine or work- than an equivalent hotel room.  Room features, quality and condition of furnishings as well as design style differ both between and within serviced apartment blocks but tend to be appointed to a high –at times, luxurious- standard (at least with a kitchenette but many with a fitted and fully equipped western kitchen), tastefully and contemporarily decorated, comfortable and homely.  Monthly rates are distinctly more expensive than the corresponding rental cost of a Thai style apartment and comparable rooms in many condos but are more economical those of an equivalent hotel room. Specifically, rates start from around 3500 baht to as much as 150,000 baht per calendar month (averaging around 13,800 baht for a studio room, 26,800 for a unit with one bedroom and 45,500 for a unit with two bedrooms). Note that some serviced apartments mandate an added surcharge during major holidays and also vary their rates according to the time of year (being highest during the peak tourist season of October to February).  Although residents don’t incur a monthly maintenance fee for building upkeep, security and general repairs, they are normally liable for separate utility charges at whatever rates are set by the building owner and which, far more often than not, are higher (sometimes by twice as much) than the prevailing Government rates for electricity and water. Internet access is limited to the building’s own WiFi network and may be chargeable; maid service is usually complimentary but, likewise, not in all cases; additionally, some serviced apartments impose an additional service charge (ordinarily 10%) as well as 7% VAT.  Besides the convenience of offering a turnkey solution, the other major benefit of a serviced apartment is the flexible stay arrangements with the vast majority accepting guests for just a day, a week, a month, a quarter or as long as a year and, as with all other property types, the longer the commitment, invariably the more costeffective the rental rate (though those paying the higher day rate are at least entitled to free breakfast and bear no utility charges). Tenants are directly accountable to the property owner (landlord).  Popular serviced apartment buildings throughout Chiang Mai include, amongst others, Veerachai Court, View Doi Mansion, Thanasiri Place Apartment, Puri Piman, Huay Kaew Residence, The Dome Residence, The Opium, Sakorn Residence, Malin Residence, Green Hill Place 1, 2 and 3, Smith Residence (pictured) and Smith Suites, Viangbua Mansion, The Loft Residence, The Xym, The Grand Wipanan Residence, Central Hill Place and Baan Thai – all of which are pinpointed on the NomadGuides Map of Chiang Mai here. Page | 278

In preparation for searching for rental accommodation, you’ll need to determine each of the following:  Your maximum monthly rental budget as well as ensuring, for when you find a suitable abode, that you have enough ready cash to pay an upfront holding deposit (normally equivalent to one month’s rent, for the purpose of reserving the accommodation but which is non-refundable and thereafter serves as your first month’s rent); a security deposit (usually corresponding to two month’s rent, and which is required by the landlord in advance of the tenant’s occupation of the rental unit as collateral against any damage, breakages, unpaid bills, cleaning fees or unauthorised additions or alterations to the property but otherwise returnable in full at the time of check-out); and, as appropriate, a key/keycard deposit (typically between 200 and 500 baht per key/keycard, and which is fully refundable upon the safe return of the key(s)/keycard(s) at the time of check-out).  Your maximum rental period.

 Your chosen property type or types (condo, Thai style apartment, serviced apartment and/or house), degree of furnishing (completely unfurnished, partially furnished or fully furnished) as well as unit type or types (studio room or accommodation with one or more bedrooms).

Additionally, compile a personalised ‘wish list’ (appropriate to the property type(s) in which you’re interested) of fixtures, fittings, features and on-site amenities such as a balcony, a mountain view, fully fitted and equipped kitchen or kitchenette, 24 hour security, private garden, swimming pool, fitness centre/gym, sofa, dining table and chairs, bathtub, king-sized bed, parking space, WiFi or home broadband access in the rental unit and so on). Your list of requirements can be prioritised simply into those which you feel are absolutely essential against those you judge as merely ‘nice to have’; with such a wealth of rental properties throughout the whole of Chiang Mai, it’s recommended to ensure the particulars of your list are as specific as possible and that you’re disciplined with both your time and your budget in order to streamline the selection process (though a little flexibility in your wants and needs and your budget is prudent).

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Just as important a criterion as any of the abovementioned factors is the location of the property as this alone will influence, among other things, your transport needs, feelings of safety, the selection, pricing and nearness of local facilities for the purposes of recreation or otherwise (such as a work space, laundry store and/or self-service coin-operated washing machines, gas station, mall/shopping centre, convenience store, general purpose store, self-service coin-operated water-vending machines, super/hypermarket, pharmacy, optician, hospital and medical or dental clinics, vehicle rental agency, bank, ATM, ISP and mobile phone provider shops, day and night markets, print/copy shops as well as restaurants, transportation hubs and immigration offices), extent of foreigner presence in the neighbourhood, visual appeal of the immediate area, potential environmental bothers (such as external noise levels, risk of flooding, insect infestations) as well as the type, availability and going rate of rental properties. While there are Thai style apartments, serviced apartments as well as detached houses and semi-detached/terraced townhouses within the confines of the ‘Old City’, the area is really a haven for tourists. Similarly, the outlying suburbs and surrounding districts provide plenty of Thai style apartments and moo baan developments in particular; many of which are to be found along those reaches of Hang Dong/Mae Hong Son and Canal Roads south of Chiang Mai Airport as well as between the Super Highway, the Inner Ring Road and the Outer Ring Road but, being further out from central Chiang Mai, tend to be favoured by western retirees and those with families; moo baan can be readily identified from any web map (such as Google Maps) by their very characteristic street layout patterns (as pictured) and indeed they’re often represented on the map annotated with the word ‘moo’ or ‘village’.

By far the most favoured areas in the city for Digital Nomads are in the west, north west and north of the ‘Old City’; specifically, along Huaykaew and Suthep Roads and throughout the intervening ‘Nimman’ area, along the middle reaches of Canal Road (either side of Phucome Junction) as well as in and around the more traditionally Thai Page | 287

Whenever paying an electricity/water bill over-the-counter, the process is consistently the same and simply involves presenting your invoice at the outlet’s payment/service counter whereupon the attending member of staff will scan the bar code on your bill then state the sum owing (the total amount of the utility invoice plus the appropriate service charge); after making payment, the original bill will be returned to you stapled to which will be a receipt and, if having paid in cash, any change. It should be reiterated that remittance of a PEA or PWA bill over-the-counter at any of the approved payment channels can officially only be processed from the date the invoice was issued up to and including the due date shown on the bill; within this time window, however, such bills can in fact be paid at any of the participating outlets not just in Chiang Mai but in the whole of Thailand with payment effected either by yourself or by a friend/partner/relative on your behalf. If though, for whatever reason, you fail to settle your PEA/PWA bill at any of the designated payment channels by its due date, payment will thereafter only be accepted in person at one of the Provincial Electricity Authority/Provincial Waterworks Authority offices/shops in Chiang Mai.

A PEA electricity bill can be paid at any Provincial Electricity Authority office or ‘PEA Shop’ (either on or before its due date or thereafter out of necessity), is free of any service charge and there are, indeed, five branches located throughout Mueang Chiang Mai (all of which are pinpointed on the NomadGuides Map of Chiang Mai here); although at the main PEA branch office in Nong Hoi subdistrict, the hours reserved for bill payments are limited (08:30 to 15:30 Monday to Friday and except on those week days which fall on a Thai national holiday) and waiting times to pay can be lengthy (especially immediately before and after a Thai national holiday or weekend), the ‘PEA Shop’ at each of Central Airport Plaza and CentralFestival shopping malls in particular offer extended service hours every day of the week and sees infinitely fewer customers. Paying your PWA water bill at a Provincial Waterworks Authority office (either on or before its due date or thereafter out of necessity) is likewise devoid of any surcharge but with only a single branch in Mueang Chiang Mai (located here) and with restrictive hours for bill payments (08:30 to 15:30 Monday to Friday and except on those week days which fall on a Thai national holiday), the branch can get exceptionally busy (particularly either side of a Thai national holiday or weekend). As an alternative to visiting either a Provincial Electricity Authority office/shop or the sole Provincial Waterworks Authority office, Chiang Mai City Hall houses a permanent bill payment office (pictured) Page | 315

SPECIALITY STORES In addition to the said super-/hypermarkets and cash and carry warehouses, there are a good number of speciality stores worthy of note. Established in 1969, the family-run Kasem Store has long been a perennial favourite among Thais and expats alike offering an old-fashioned grocery store experience and boasting a veritable treasure trove of nothing but imported foreign foodstuffs (and that which isn’t in evidence in the shop can sometimes be ordered) as well as a multitude of fresh produce (especially bakery items); open between 08:00 and 20:00 Monday to Saturday, the two stores are marked on the NomadGuides Map of Chiang Mai here. Likewise launched in 1969, Thailand’s ‘Royal Project’ was inaugurated initially as a means to provide Thai hill-tribe villages -previously dependent upon slash and burn subsistence cultivation and opium production- an alternative source of income in the form of chemical-free cash crops; nowadays, all such produce is delivered to Chiang Mai from where their Doi Khambranded retail outlets stock an extensive assortment of high quality and very reasonably priced seasonal fresh herbs (including exotics like rosemary, lemon thyme and mint), vegetables (including hard-to-find varieties such as leeks, carrots and zucchini/courgette) and fruit (including unusual varieties like avocado and cranberries) available fresh, tinned, dehydrated, frozen and as juice and jams as well as honey, highland brown rice, coffee and epicurean meats, for example, rabbit, boar and trout; their principal store (though there are, in fact, several throughout the city including at Chiang Mai Airport) is open daily from 08:00 to 18:00 and located here. Northern Farm is likewise popular with both locals and foreign residents for its “supreme quality” and moderately priced fresh meats (locally sourced chicken, pork and duck along with imported salmon, beef, lamb and, at Christmas time, turkey) as well as frozen fish/shellfish, butter, cheese, spices and fine wine; open from 08:00 to 18:00 Monday to Saturday and 08:00 to 17:00 on Sundays (but closed on Thai national holidays), it’s only store is located here. Billed as a health food store, ‘Baan Suan Pak’ stocks a decent and reasonably priced selection of fresh organic and chemical-free fruit, vegetables and herbs as well as spices, oils, honey, tahini, tempeh, kefir, kombucha, kimchi and such like; open between 09:00 and 17:00 Monday to Saturday, it’s recently re-located store can be found here. Although more than 70% of its stock comprises imported foodstuffs, Yok Intertrade is in fact better known for its baked goods as well as its bakery-making appliances and culinary ingredients; open 08:00 until 19:00 at least six days a week, both of its stores are pinpointed on the NomadGuides Map of Chiang Mai here or, alternately, order online for home delivery. With a store right next to Ton Payom 2 Market along with a presence at Nakhonchai Air (NCA) bus terminal, at Chiang Mai Airport (specifically in the international arrivals hall on the 2nd floor), at Kad Luang Warorot and, open from 07:00 to 20:00 daily, their head office branch located here, Vanusnun produces its own range of fresh and dried foods including preserved Page | 320

Data & Voice Services Thai SIM Cards

ACQUISITION OF A THAI SIM CARD You can of course use a foreign SIM card in Thailand to make/receive voice calls, send/receive SMS (text), EMS (enhanced text) and MMS (multimedia) messages as well as, the specification of your mobile device permitting, connect to the internet via 3G/4G but you’ll incur –often exorbitant- international roaming charges as a result. Easily the cost-effective option is to acquire a Thai SIM card –upon your arrival in Thailand- for such purposes and indeed having a Thai mobile (cell) phone number is mandatory for performing particular transactions if you hold a Thai bank account.

Thai mobile phone numbers start with 06x, 08x or 09x followed by a 7 digit subscriber number and, within Thailand, can be dialled directly from another Thai SIM card or from a Thai landline number (the area codes for Chiang Mai landlines specifically are 052 or, more commonly, 053). Otherwise, the Thai mobile phone number will need to be prefixed with +66 (Thailand’s country calling code) then whichever of 6x, 8x or 9x (the Thai mobile phone code minus the leading 0) followed by the 7 digit subscriber number; additionally, a country-specific International Direct Dial (IDD) code will need to be added ahead of the Thailand country calling code. Thus, for example, to contact a Thai mobile phone number from the UK, the caller would need to dial 00 66 then the Thai mobile phone number without the leading 0; to lookup the international access code of any given country as a prerequisite to making an outgoing phone call to Thailand (in addition to dialling instructions for making an outgoing call from Thailand to any other country in the world), click here. Thai SIM cards can be used anywhere in Thailand without bearing domestic roaming charges but, if duly enabled, will incur international roaming charges if used outside of Thailand (except in parts of the border towns of Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia and Myanmar which immediately adjoin Thailand).

In fact, Thais are heavy mobile phone users with the growth rate of subscribers, sale of smartphones and accompanying consumption of 3G/4G mobile internet data (especially in relation to social media sites) skyrocketing over the last couple of years in particular. Accordingly, smartphones (including the very latest models) are readily available and genuine makes competitively priced with the principal Thai mobile phone networks (AIS, dtac and TrueMove H (TMH)) offering an extensive selection of data Page | 330

HOME BROADBAND As in the west, fixed line broadband internet access in Thailand (including throughout Chiang Mai) is delivered predominantly through DSL (over a conventional telephone line and most often ADSL) but also Cable (DOCSIS) -to the least extent- and, increasingly, the faster and more reliable Fibre-optic (variously expressed as ‘Fibre-ToThe-x’ (FTTX), ‘Fibre-To-The-Premises’ (FTTP), ‘Fibre-To-The-Home’ (FTTH) or ‘Fibre-ToThe-Building’ (FTTB)). Based on actual crowdsourced speed test readings, the now discontinued Ookla NetIndex (http://www.netindex.com/download/4,122791/ChiangMai/) revealed that Chiang Mai had an average fixed line broadband download speed of 14.6Mbps/upload speed of 2.6Mbps (at April 2015) – thus appreciably faster than other popular Digital Nomad hotspots in South East Asia such as Ubud (in Bali) and Davao (in the Philippines) but comparable to the likes of Ho Chi Minh City (in Vietnam).

While there is widespread coverage overall of fixed line broadband throughout Mueang Chiang Mai, service availability, download/upload speeds (ranging from 10Mbps/512Kbps to 1Gbps/200Mbps), method of delivery (DSL, Cable or Fibre-Optic) and choice of Internet Service Provider (ISP) will all governed by the geographic area and property type in which you live. Although not especially common, some privatelyowned rental properties in Chiang Mai do come already outfitted with home broadband with the cost sometimes included as part of the monthly rental amount. As a rule, those living in a rented apartment (serviced or otherwise), are not allowed to setup their own home broadband connection; in contrast, those renting a house or condo will normally be permitted to arrange their own installation of home broadband subject to their residing in an area of coverage (‘service area’) and, as invariably mandated in a lease/service agreement, having first obtained permission from the landlord; do note, though, that at some condos in the city, you’ll be limited to subscribing to a particular ISP (such as the one which provides the telephone lines to the building for those condos which supply home broadband via ADSL).

When ordering fixed line home broadband as a foreigner, it’s customary for the ISP to stipulate a minimum commitment; presently, with the exception of a single provider who does not enforce a minimum contractual period, all mandate a term of either 6 months or, more typically, 12 months for new subscribers (though it is possible, on occasion and at the discretion of ISP staff, to negotiate the duration down to 3 months). Installation charges are normally waived (though payable in full should the contract be terminated prematurely) but new subscribers do need to source a Page | 340

 Connecting to one of the several thousand free WiFi Access Points (APs) such as in a shopping mall, government facility, hospital, post office, university, Chiang Mai Airport as well as in and around popular tourist and expat hangouts like Tha Phae Gate, Nimmanahaeminda Road, Warorot Market and the Saturday/Sunday Walking Streets - Thailand’s Ministry of Information and Communication Technology (MICT) has joined with a number of Thai ISPs/mobile operators (AIS, dtac, TOT and TrueMove H) to provide such ‘ICT Free WiFi’ access to the general public, the details of which are summarised below:

'ICT free WiFi by AIS'

'ICT free WiFi by dtac'

'ICT free WiFi by TOT'

'ICT free WiFi by TRUE'

Pre-registration Available

Yes

No

No

No

Registration at Connection

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

10 Mbps/1 Mbps

3 Mbps/1 Mbps

2 Mbps/512 Kbps

2 Mbps/512 Kbps

Wireless Network Name (SSID)

Maximum Download/Upload Speeds

Daily/Monthly Time Limit(s)

10 hours per month

2 hours per day

2 hours per day

30 minutes per day & 15 hours per month

WiFi Username/Password Validity

Account valid from registration date to end of same month

3 months

6 months

3 months

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 Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) – a Thai government-administered educational facility devoted to the promotion and development of creativity among entrepreneurs, designers and students, the ultra modern and immaculately kept TCDC –located here and open from 10:30 to 18:00 Tuesday to Sunday (except on Thai national holidays)- comprises the CMYK Café (hot and cold drinks 50 to 85 baht, fresh sandwiches 90 to 105 baht, salads 85 to 105 baht, soups 69 baht, specials 70 to 120 baht and desserts 85 baht), an event space (which hosts 2 or 3 – often with free admissionrelated exhibitions, workshops, symposia or lectures per month) and a meeting room (suitable for up to 15 persons and costing 500 baht for the day) on the ground floor; on floor 2 is an impressive Resource Centre in which is a library (pictured) housing numerous design publications, periodicals and multimedia resources (many in English), 7 desks each with 10 seats (offering a number of free-touse PC (Lenovo) and Apple Mac desktop and laptop computers), a handful of beanbags as well as a reading room (accommodating up to 10 persons), a ‘Material ConneXion’cum-meeting room (for up to 6 persons) space, a small ‘cinema theatre’ (media room) with sofa for viewing DVDs from their on-site collection and, from early 2016, secure locker facilities; although the TCDC Resource Centre is accessible only to paid members (of which there are three tiers of membership), it is possible to obtain –upon presentation of your passport at the ‘Info Guru’ counter- a free ‘One Day Pass’ (limited to one per person) on your first visit and thereafter a ‘Tourist Pass’ (offering the same benefits as their ‘Premium’ membership and which, therefore, can also be used at TCDC in Bangkok) which is valid for 10 consecutive days, costs just 200 baht each and, whatsmore, there’s no limit to the number of Tourist Passes that can be obtained consecutively; free WiFi (with maximum download/upload speeds of 16Mbps/5Mbps) is available throughout but reproduction services are chargeable (printing/photocopying: 2 baht for A4 black and white; 10/15 baht for A4 colour), scanning: 8/12 baht and CD-writing: 12 baht). While the TCDC Resource Centre is available to be used by Thais and foreigners alike (and employs English-speaking staff), it’s patronised by very few westerners not least on account of it being so little-known.

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By Bus The same bus companies that operate from Bangkok’s various bus terminals (Chatuchak (Mo Chit), Nakhonchai Air, Vibhavadi and others) direct to Chiang Mai’s Arcade Bus Station (terminals 2 and 3) as well as to the nearby Nakhonchai Air Bus Terminal also make the return journey with corresponding ticket classes (VIP, 1st, 2nd and 3rd), duration (9 to 12 hours), standard one-way fares (from 389 baht for 2nd class, from 500 baht for 1st class and from 628 baht for VIP class), conditions of carriage and booking channels (online ticketing consolidators, the bus operator directly (from their counter(s) at the respective bus terminal(s) or courtesy of their call centre) as well as local travel agents). Collectively, departures from Chiang Mai to Bangkok by bus occur at least hourly between 06:30 and 23:05 every day of the week. Aside from the nation’s capital, the many bus companies based at one or both of the terminals of the Arcade bus station in Chiang Mai additionally serve an array of towns and cities elsewhere in Northern Thailand (such as Lampang, Mae Sot, Chiang Rai, Mae Sai, Pai, Mae Hong Son and Chiang Khong), the Central provinces (such as Sukhothai and Phitsanulok), the Northeastern -Isaan- region (such as Udon Thani, Nong Khai, Khon Kaen, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) and Ubon Ratchathani) as well as Hua Hin and even as far south as Phuket (via Surat Thani).

Besides local and national destinations, terminal 2 of Chiang Mai’s Arcade Bus Station (near platform 20) houses the main booking office for ‘The Transport Co.’ which runs a thrice weekly direct bus service to 'Ban Naluang Bus Station’ in Luang Prabang, Laos via stops at Chiang Rai, the 4th Friendship (Bokeo) Bridge –straddling the Mekong River- at the Chiang Khong (Thailand)/Huay Xai (Laos) border crossing and, in Laos, Luang Namtha and Oudomxay (Udomxai); with departures from Chiang Mai (and returns from Luang Prabang) at 09:00 Monday, Wednesday and Sunday, a one-way (1st class) ticket for the single-decker, airconditioned, WCequipped ThaiLao international bus (pictured) costs 1200 baht and can only be purchased on the morning of departure -preferably between 06:00 and 08:00 but certainly no later than 08:30- with the entire trip normally taking from Page | 385