Mushu-patrón de amigurumi

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs  

Mushu Crochet Pattern

 This pattern was designed by Chiara Chiara Cremon aka  aka  @chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot! 1

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

A message for you Hello dear ear fellow crocheters! My name ame is Chiar ara a (pronounc ounced ed “Ki Kia ara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not  only th the e girl in the pic ictture down th the ere but, most importa rtant ntlly, th the e person behi hin nd the Instagram account @chiacrafts! In th the e very beginnin ing g croche hett was, for me, noth nothin ing g more than han a Sunda nday hobb obby, useful to keep eep my mind busy an and d far away from disaster fantasies. es. Whe When I first ope opene ned d my Ins nsttagr agram account nt,, I’d have ne nev ver imag magined achieving such success, but it quickly grew and man many people expressed interest est in reproducing my creatio tions :D, which brought me to start tart typing down and sharing my patterns! Howeve Howe verr, writ writin ing g a pa patt tter ern n does doesn’ n’tt come ome wi with thou outt its its own own ch chal alle leng nges es an and d quit quite e an effo effort rt:: whil while e the the de desi sign gn time time re rema main ins s unva unvari ried ed,, phy physi sica call lly y writ writin ing g it down down in di digi gita tall for orma mat, t, re rema maki king ng the the pi piec eces es to mak ma ke sure sure they they’r ’re e co corr rrec ect, t, an and d prep prepar arin ing g al alll comme omment nts s an and d pi pict ctur ures es,, take takes s ab abou outt more more than than a thir third d of the time I spend on a project. I’m an independent art rtiist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my small Ravelry shop. I would love to shar are e all my patterns for free but, seeing the amou mount of ti time me and ene energy I spend on  them, that wouldn't be possible. If you like my work and wish for me to keep writing croc cr ochet het pa patt tter erns ns,, pl plea ease se su supp pport ort me me:: do don't n't re redi dist stri ribu bute te  this pattern and don't make use of pirated copies. Not sure if yours is a pirated cop opy y? Read th the e next pag age e :)

Let me thank you once again for your love and s upport. rt. You’re all a source of great moti tiv vati tio on for me!

Cheers, Chiara 

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

License Hello,   and thank you in advance for trying out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and personal effort :)

Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind!

 This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this docu do cume ment). nt). If yo you’ u’ve ve fou ound nd it in an any y othe otherr lo loca cati tion on,, yo you’ u’re re read readin ing g a stol stolen en co copy py,, an and d you you shou should ldn n’t  use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn. DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also prohibited. DO NOT reuse my pictures.  This pattern is intended for personal use only. only. Please give me cre credits when posti tin ng online by always adding “Pa Patt tter ern n by @chia @chiacr craf afts ts” and #chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your work anyway :D Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and hel elp p me carry on  this activity. Thank you for listening listening :)

For any doubt, you can contac actt me via PM on Instagram or by email ail. I DO NOT answer questi estio ons via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I always answer :)

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Read Me  Pay attention to the the details!  T  Take ake a good look at all the pictures and don’t be afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so small it’s quite fast :) It's a good practice to read the whole document  before starting. Knowing what to expect will help you pay attention!

Another way of working in rounds is the  joined rounds one: in this case, you’d start each round with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right   belo elow the chain, and you end eac each round with a sl in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spir ira al, but by stacking concentric layers. Mushu’s gong is worked in joint rounds.

 Tips and Tutorials Tutorials

Rows

Whereas, when working in rows, at the end of   each row you shou hould turn your our work and and proceed

You can find quick vide ideo tutorials als on how to work ork in rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic stitches in my Yout outube ube cha channel nnel.. I advise you to have a look in case you should be unsure about  how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite stand tandar ard d, so you migh mightt as well well just ust ty type pe the the name name of the stitch on google, and follow the first    tutorial popping out. You can also find some useful tips related to my Ins sta tagr gram am gui uide des s. I strongly patterns in my In recommend taking a look if this is the first time you’re following one of my patterns! This mate ma teri rial al is const onstan antl tly y evo vollvin ing: g: I kee eep p im imp provin oving g in ex expl plai aini ning ng myse myself lf an and d I keep keep en enri rich chin ing g it. it. Tha That' t's s why I'm not linking any post to specific parts of  

in the opposite direction. the first st of a row should, th the erefore ore, be worked in th the e last sti tittch of   the previous row, thus proceeding zig-zag and creating a 2D shape.

  When Wh en work workin ing g in ro rows ws,, yo you u shou should ld alwa always ys mak make a  turning chain at the end of each row of sc to help you better turn your work. This turning chain might not always be explicitly reported in the pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams.  The only case where you should NOT make a  turning chain is when you make a decrease at the beginning of a row (you skip the first stitch and start working in the second). When Wh en work workin ing g in ro row ws, afte afterr a chai chain, n, alw always ays st star art  t  from th the e sec secon ond d loop oop fr from om hook ook, if not specifi ified ed otherwise.

 the document.

Rounds and Rows Parts arts of th this is pat pattern ern hav have been been work orked in Rounds, others in Rows.

Rounds

When working in rounds, the first stitch of a round must be worked upon the first sti tittch of the previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is known as continuous rounds.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

For left-handed people If you’ you’re re left left-ha -hand nded ed,, every everythi thing ng is mi mirr rror or-l -lik ike e for for you! Right-handed people should work in the round clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between  them and the work. Le Left ft-h -han ande ded d peop people le sh shou ould ld work wo rk in the the ro roun und d co coun unte terc rclo lock ckwi wise se keep keeping ing the work between them and the crochet hook. Right ight--hande nded should work in rows proceeding from right to left, le left ft-h -han ande ded d sh shou ould ld work work from from lef eftt to ri righ ght  t . Ther Theref efor ore, e, you can ea easi silly fol ollo low w th this is pattern keeping in mind to always swap instructio ion ns specularly: for exampl mple, if I say th tha at   the stitch marker should be placed on the left side of the doll, that makes it the right side for you, and so on.azs`

 YU vs YO stitches Some parts in this pattern are worked YU (Y (Ya arn Under nder)) i. i.e. e. usin using g the the “X” “X” stit stitcch. Othe Otherrs are are work orked YO (yarn over), i.e. using the “V” stitch.  T  Typically ypically,, I work rounds YU and rows YO. YO. You find mor more in inffo about out the two in the dedic ica ated post in my IG profile.  The choice of stitch type is mainly aesthetical and doesn oesn’t ’t im impa pact ct the the res esul ultt mor more th than an how how a chan change ge in gauge would. Feel free to follow it all using only 1 kind of stitch, if that makes you more comfortable.

Stitch marker usage

Measure your gauge

I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the round.

Measure the dimensions of your stitches or compa omparre them them with with thos those e of th the e res rest of th the e proj ojec ect  t   to understand if you’re proceeding well. For example: the stitches of the wig are smaller  than those of the head, despite the indications said to work ork it with th the e same tension? on? It will most  ost  likely not fit :)

 Don’t work inside out! If you’re working correctly and you’re right   handed, you shou hould work clockwise keeping th the e c(counterclock rochet hoowise k beiftw een left-handed). you and the (counterclockwise you're

work

If yosame u’re pseries, lannin ing gand on you makwant ing mto oremake chara arathem cters all of   the alike, don’t forget to keep another doll close so you can compare the sts dimensions and adjust  your gauge.  Tiny variations in the thickness of the yarn, your mood, but also other factors such as lighting,  together with your natural improvement as a crafter, can play a role in impacting your gauge.  That’s perfectly normal! Just take your time to adjust it if needed.

  If you’re right handed and you’re working cou ount nter ercl cloc ock kwi wise se kee eepi ping ng the the work work be betw twee een n yo you u an and d yo your ur cr croc oche hett hook hook,, then then yo you’ u’re re wo work rkin ing g in insi side de out. out. You’l ou’lll have have a har hard time time fol ollo lowi wing ng th this is pat atte tern rn if you do so, I’d suggest you correct it.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Abbreviations * These are standard US standard abbreviations + something I’ve made up to ease the reading. ★ R = Round (continuous or joined) ★ Row = row ★ MR = Magic Ring ★ st = stitch ★ sk = skip ★ sc = single crochet  ★ inc = sc in inccrea ease se (i (in nvi visi sib ble sc in inccreas rease, e, i. i.e. e.

★

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st   when working in rounds, [2 sc] through  the entire st when working in rows) dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease when working in rounds, sc2tog when working in rows) dc = double crochet  hdc = half double crochet  ch = chain sl = slip stitch  tr = treble crochet  BLO = back loop only (correspond onds to th the e inner loop when working in rounds) FLO = front ont loop only (corr orrespon ond ds to the outer loop when working in rounds) [ ] = means that the stitches are to be done in the same loop or stitch CY-P -PO O = cut the yarn and pull it out from  the stitch

★ IJ = Invisible Join ★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ) ★ stsc = standing sc ★  tch = turning chain ★ rc = rising chain

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

smaller than indicated to better work the body  tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from which the stuffing would be visible or fall  through. You should get a good result with this pattern as long ong as you sti tick ck to one one yarn br bran and/ d/si siz ze, work ork  the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than

Materials ★ 2.0 mm crochet hook  Tapestry apestry needle ★  T ★ 6 mm black safety eyes

indicated, and accordingly A nyhow, m y ascale dvicethe is other to avohooks id picaccordingly. king a yarn. much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy result: maximum 1 size bigger!

★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) ★ Yarn all in the th e same size of the t he following

colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans: Red (26): body ○ White (01): eyes ○ Yellow (35): belly ○ ○ Dark turquoise (55): horns ○ Cherry (91): nose and tail ○ Mustard (84): gong Brown (40): gong ○ ★  T  Textile extile glue ★ Metallic wire 0.8 mm ○ Comparison with 2.0 mm hook

Dimensions Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most  importantly, working tight!!!), the finished doll will be about 9 cm tall.

 Note on the eyes eyes  The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s doll’s dimensions! Don’t purchase 6 mm eyes if you’re not sure the dimensions of your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box with many different ent sizes, and use the one which be bett tter er suit suits s yo your ur do doll ll.. Appr Approx oxim imat atel ely y, safe safety ty ey eyes es should be 2 stitches wide.

 Note on the yarn yarn I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Row13: 11 sc (11) Row14: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (9),  T  Turn urn without making a tch Row15: sk 1, 6 sc, 1 dec (7), T  Turn urn without making a tch Row16: sk 1, 4 sc, 1 dec (5), T  Turn urn without making a tch

Head

Row17: CY-PO sk 1, 2 sc, 1 dec (3)

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work tight  Work YU Work with red yarn R1: ch 6 (5) Work R2 around the chai chain. n. R2: 5 sc in the upper loops, turn around, 5 sc in  the lower loops (10)

Upper half  Join the yarn on the next free stitch sti tch of R10.

R3: 1 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc (14) R4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (18) R5: 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (22) R6-R8: 22 sc (22) R9: (1 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc)x 2 (18) R10: 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (14)

Lower half

And work the upper half of the mouth in the remaining stitches of R10.

Add 1 sc off round, round, so to position yourself right on  the side, turn.

Work Row1:YO 1 st sc, 6 sc (Row1 isn’t complete yet)

 Then work 1 surface sc on the side , inserting your hook across R10.

Start working in rows. Don’t forget to make the  tch and turn at the end of each row! Work YO Row11: 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (9) Row12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (11)

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Now Row1 is complete (8), T  Turn urn without making a tch Row2: sk 1, 7 sc, 1 surface sc as done before  turn without tch, sk 1, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, end with a 1 surface sc on the other side CY-PO  Then fasten off and hide all the tails left. You can hide all the tails inside, since the mouth will be stitched closed. Here’s how this piece looks like.  The upper part should be slightly longer and narrower. The lower part should bend when stuffed inside the upper part. Bottom view:

(8), T  Turn urn without making a tch Row3: sk 1, 7 sc (7),  T  Turn urn without making a tch Row4: sk 1, 4 sc, 1 dec (5) Row5-Row6: 5 sc (5)  Turn urn without making a tch Row7: 5 sc (5), T Row8: sk 1, 2 sc, 1 dec (3) CY-PO

Next, you’re going to work 2 rows of sc around  the upper part (make sure it’s the upper one!).  Join on the left side (at your right ), and work: Lateral view:

1 st sc, 5 sc on the left side 3 sc on the front  6 sc on the right side and a 1 surface sc on the side

Stuff R1 to R10!

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

Pro tip Some of the parts (especially ears, whiskers and horns) might be bending as they please, and need  to be kept in position. You could could do so with a few drops of fabric glue strategically placed here and  there. I usually dip the tip of a pin in glue and I use it to gently apply a very small amount to the piece. Then, I pin the piece in the desired position, and I let it dry.

Do the same on the other side. Hide the tails left inside the work and secure  them. Make sure the two ears are symmetrical, and the right side of the crochet is facing towards you.  The following is a top view, you’re looking at the upper half of the mouth.

Ears Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with red yarn Pull up a loop 2 sts away from the end of the mouth.

Horns x 2 Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with turquoise yarn Note thatthe theright two ears be symmetrical, and with face should of the crochet work facing  towards you! Work: ch 9, sk 4, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc CY-PO

Work the horns between R3 and R4 leaving 1 free st between them. Note that the right side of   the crochet work should face you for both horns. Pull up a loop.

 Then work: ch 5, Work starting from second loop from hook 1 sl, 3 sc,

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 Teeth x 2 Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO

CY-PO Make 2.  The right crochet side of both horns should sho uld face  towards you. Fasten off and hide all the tails left (insert them inside the head and secure them with a knot is enough).

Work with white yarn split in half (to make it   thinner) ch 4, Work starting from second loop from hook 1 sl, 2 sc,

Make 2. Glue the teeth to the inner side of the mouth, wait  until it dries up.

Mustache x 2 Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with yellow yarn ch 7, CY-PO  trim very short. shor t. Make 2. Insert the starting tail inside, secure the tails inside with a knot or a bit of glue. You You can also fix  the two pieces externally to the sides of the mouth with a bit of glue (you might want to also place the nose first, to make sure the pieces are well centered).

 Nose Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with cherry yarn R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2: (1 inc, 1 sc) x 3 (9) R3: 4 sc, IJ (you don’t complete the round) (9)

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Glue the eyes to the head. Try to give him a nice expression. In particular, try to avoid making him cross-eyed (the eyes should not point in different  directions).

 Then stuff the rest of the head, and sew the mouth closed using the tapestry needle and red yarn. The upper part of the th e snout overlaps with  the bottom one.

Eyes x 2

Eye orbits x 2

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with white yarn R1: Work in a MR: 4 sc, 6 hdc, 1 sc (11)

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with red yarn  This part is i s worked in rows. R1: ch 9 (8) R2: 8 sc (8) Weave Wea ve in start and end tails. Make 2.

Place the eye in the middle, secure it with the washer.   Glue these pieces around the base of the eyes.

R2: 3 sc, 6 hdc, 2 sc (11) R3: 11 sc (11) FO  The safety eye should be completely covered in height.

Make 2.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

---------------------R9: red 6 sc yellow 4 sc BLO (10) ---------------------R10:

Body Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work tight 

red 6 sc4 sc yellow

Work YU Work with red yarn R1: ch 5 (4) R2: 4 sc (4) R3:: 4 sc R3 sc in FLO, turn around, 4 sc in the loops left  (8)

(10) ---------------------R11: red 6 sc yellow 4 sc BLO (10) ---------------------R12: red (1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc ) yellow 4 sc (12) ---------------------R13:

red 8 sc yellow 4 sc BLO

(12) ---------------------R14: red (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 2 sc yellow 4 sc (14) ---------------------R15: red 10 sc yellow 4 sc BLO (14)

Keep working in rounds. R4: 8 sc (8) R5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (10) R6: 10 sc (10) R7: 6 sc red, change color to yellow, 4 sc (10) Remember that the color change should always be done yarning over with the new color when completing the previous sc. Cut the yarn, secure new and old extremities with a knot inside the work and trim each round. Dragging the yarn around without cutting it or working tapestry will give you a different result. ---------------------R8: red 6 sc yellow 4 sc (10)

---------------------R16: red 10 sc yellow 4 sc (14) ---------------------R17: red (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 2 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) x 2 yellow 4 sc BLO (18) ---------------------R18: red 14 sc yellow 4 sc (18) ----------------------

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

R39: Hold the piece together and work the next  round by inserting  the hook in both layers to close the piece, 3 sc (see diagram below).

R19: red (2 sc, 1 inc) x 4, 2 sc yellow 4 sc BLO (22) ---------------------R20: red 16 sc, 1 dec (19) yellow 2 dec ---------------------R21: red 2 dec, 9 sc, 2 dec yellow 2 sc (15) ---------------------Stuff the body. If you want to improve Mushu’s pose and stability, you can insert a small wire skeleton inside the body and the tail.

 T  Tch ch changing color to to cherry, cherr y, turn Work: Row1: sk 1, 2 sc (2) Row2: ch 4, 3 sc working from second loop from hook, don’t cut, ch 2, 1 sc, CY-PO

Fasten off. Use the end tail to secure the cherry portion, and hide what’s left.

R22: red 2 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec yellow 1 dec (10) ---------------------From now on, keep working in red. R23: 2 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec (6) R24-R38: 6 sc(6) (working around the metal wire).

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Bend the body into the correct shape! If you’re not using the wire, you could sew or glue  the tail to the body, to keep it up.

Feet

Arms

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO

Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Work with red yarn Pull up a loop in correspondence with the t he first line of FLs left.

Work with red yarn Pull up a loop in correspondence with the 6th FLs line.

Work: ch 8, working from second loop from hook, 1 sl, 1 sc, ch 2, working from second loop from hook, 1 sc, 5 sl going back to the starting point.

Work: ch 4, [3 dc] all worked in the very first loop made (skipping the first 3 loops from hook) CY-PO.

Hide the tails left. Do the same on the other side. Both “thumbs” should point upwards. To To achieve  this, one arm will have the right side of the t he crochet work facing towards you, the other will wi ll have the wrong side instead. Use the tail left to secure se cure the foot laterally, a couple of rounds below (on the color change line).

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

 

 

Gong Crochet hook: 2.0 mm Work normally Work YO Start with mustard yarn. You’re You’re also going to need brown  This piece is worked in joint rounds. End each round with a sl in the 1st sc of the round, and make a ch 1, then the n proceed following the instructions for the next round. The 1st stitch of   the next round should be worked in the same sc where the sl was made. R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18) R4: 18 sl (18) Make a ch 20 using brown yarn. Use the brown tails left to secure this piece onto  the gong. Instead of hiding the tails, use them the m to embroider the details on the gong using back stitches.

Do the same on the other side.

Glue the head Glue the head onto the body. You should make the starting star ting chain of the t he body correspond with Row11 of the head. Then glue  together the first rounds of the body and part of   the bottom side of the mouth.

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon 

 

chi cr fts

https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs

Congratulations!  Your Mushu is ready! ready! Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you post on Instagram (more info in the license page!)

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