MS180
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Description
017, 018 CONTENTS 1.
Introduction
2
2.
Specifications
3
2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.5.1 2.5.2 2.6
Engine Fuel System Ignition System Cutting Attachment Special Accessories For User For Service Tightening Torques
3 3 4 4 4 4 4 5
3.
Clutch, Chain Drive, Chain Brake and Chain Tensioner
3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7
Chain Sprocket Chain Catcher Clutch Disassembling Chain Brake Assembling Chain Brake Front Chain Tensioner Bar Studs
6 6 6 7 8
Ignition System
20
10.
Fuel System
34
5.1 5.2 5.2.1 5.2.2
Spark Plug Terminal Ignition Module Ignition Timing Removing and Installing Flywheel Ground Wire Short Circuit Wire
20 21 21
10.1 10.2 10.3 10.3.1 10.3.2
Air Filter Filter Housing Carburetor Leakage Testing Removing and Installing Carburetor Adjustment Pickup Body Tank Vent Fuel Tank Fuel Hose
34 34 34 34
36 36 37 37 38
Special Servicing Tools and Aids
39
Special Servicing Tools Servicing Aids
39 40
5.3 5.4 5.5
21 22 23 23
6.
Rewind Starter
24
6.1 6.2 6.3 6.3.1 6.3.2 6.4
General Fan Housing Rewind Spring Replacing Tensioning Starter Rope, Pawl, Rope Guide Bush
24 24 25 25 26
10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 10.8 11. 11.1
26 11.2
7.
AV Handle System
27
8.
Master Control/ Handle System
28
35
9 10 10
4.
Engine
11
4.1 4.2 4.2.1 4.2.2 4.2.3 4.3
Exhaust Muffler Leakage Test Preparations Pressure Test Vacuum Test Removing and Installing Engine Oil Seals Cylinder Piston Piston Ring Connecting Rod Crankshaft
11 11 12 12 13
4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9
5.
14 15 16 17 18 19 19
8.1 8.2 8.3
28 28
8.4
Switch Shaft Contact Spring Throttle Trigger/ Interlock Lever Handle Frame
9.
Chain Lubrication
31
9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4
Oil Pump Worm Oil Tank Suction Hose/ Pickup Body
31 32 32
29 30
33
© 1999, Andreas Stihl AG & Co., Waiblingen
017, 018
1
INTRODUCTION
This service manual contains detailed descriptions of all the repair and servicing procedures specific to this power tool series. There are separate handbooks for servicing procedures for standardized parts and assemblies that are installed in several STIHL power tool models. Reference is made to these handbooks in the appropriate chapters of this manual.
Service manuals and all technical information bulletins describing engineering changes are intended exclusively for the use of STIHL servicing dealers. They must not be passed to third parties.
143RA002
1.
To work on the underside (e.g. removing the oil pump), turn the machine over and position clamping rail on the assembly stand so that one screw engages the inner 10 mm hole.
You should make use of the illustrated parts lists while carrying out repair work. They show the installed positions of the individual components and assemblies.
A fault on the machine may have several causes. Consult the troubleshooting charts for all assemblies in the “General Servicing, Troubleshooting” handbook. Refer to the “Technical Information” bulletins for engineering changes which have been introduced since publication of this service manual. Technical information bulletins also supplement the parts list until a revised edition is issued. The special servicing tools mentioned in the descriptions are listed in the last chapter of this manual. Use the part numbers to identify the tools in the “STIHL Special Tools” manual. The manual lists all special servicing tools currently available from STIHL.
2
Note: Pull the hand guard against the front handle before clamping the machine in this position.
1
2
143RA001
Always use the latest edition of the parts to determine the part numbers of any replacement parts required. Microfilmed parts list are always more up to date than printed lists.’
p (
Always use original STIHL replacement parts. They can be identified by the STIHL part number, the logo and the STIHL parts symbol The symbol may appear alone on small parts.
Servicing and repairs are made considerably easier if the powerhead is mounted on the assembly stand (2) with the clamping rail (1). The machine is secured to the stand by means of the bar mounting nuts (after removing the sprocket cover). This enables the powerhead to be swivelled to the best position for the ongoing repair and leaves both hands free.
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2.
SPECIFICATIONS
2.1
Engine
STIHL single-cylinder two-stroke engine with special impregnated cylinder bore Displacement: Bore: Stroke: Compression ratio: Engine power: Max. torque: Mean idle speed: Main bearings: Big end bearing: Small end bearing: Piston pin diameter: Connecting rod length: Rewind starter: Reserve pull on rope rotor: Starter rope: Clutch: Diameter: Clutch engages at: Crankcase leakage test at gauge pressure: under vacuum:
2.2
min. 1/2 turn 3.0 mm (0.12 in) dia., 800 mm (31.5 in) long Centrifugal clutch without linings 65 mm (2.56 in) 65 mm (2.56 in) 4,100 rpm 4,100 rpm 0,4 bar (5.8 psi) 0,4 bar (5.8 psi)
Fuel System Carburetor: Standard setting High speed adjusting screw H: Low speed adjusting screw L: Carburetor leakage test at gauge pressure: Fuel tank capacity: Octane number: Fuel mixture: Mix ratio: Air filter:
1) 2)
017 018 30.1 cm3 (1.84 cu.in) 31.8 cm3 37 mm (1.46 in) 38 mm 28 mm (1.10 in) 28 mm (1.10 in) 9.5 :1 9.5 :1 1.2 kW (1.6 bhp) 1.4 kW (1.9 bhp) 1.5 Nm (1.1 lb.ft) 1.5 Nm (1.1 lb.ft) at n = 5500 rpm at n = 5500 rpm 3,200 rpm 2,800 rpm Two deep-groove ball bearings Cylinder rollers (cageless) Needle sleeve Needle cage Needle sleeve Ø 8 mm (0.3 in) Ø 8 mm (0.3 in) 51 mm (2 in) 51 mm (2 in) Pawl system
Diaphragm carburetor 017
018
1)
2)
approx. 1 turn open 0.4 bar (5.8 psi) 0.25 l (0.53 US pt) min. 90 RON (USA/CAN: pump octane min. 87 unleaded) Regular brand-name gasoline and two-stroke engine oil 50:1 with STIHL 50:1 two-stroke engine oil 25:1 with other brand-name two-stroke, air-cooled engine oils Felt element
No H screw. Maximum engine RPM is permanently set by fixed jet (not adjustable) Carburetor with balanced idle system with only one adjusting screw (LD)
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3
2.3
Ignition System
Type: Air gap: Ignition timing: Spark plug (suppressed): Electrode gap: Spark plug thread: Length of thread: Heat range:
2.4
Cutting Attachment
Guide bars:
Electronic magneto ignition (breakerless) with integral trigger unit 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.006-0.012 in) 1.0 - 1.6 mm (0.04-0.063 in) B.T.D.C. at 8,000 rpm CHAMPION RCJ 6Y BOSCH WSR 6 F 0.5 mm (0.020 in) M14 x 1.25 9.5 mm (0.37 in) 200
Oil tank capacity:
STIHL Rollomatic with nose sprocket 3005 30 and 35 cm (12 and 14 in) 3/8" (9.32 mm) Picco-Micro Mini 6-tooth spur sprocket for 3/8" Picco pitch 18.6 m/s (61 ft/sec) at 10,000 rpm (with 6-tooth 3/8" P sprocket) Speed-controlled reciprocating oil pump, no oil feed at idle speed 0.15 l (0.32 US pt)
Bar tail: Bar lengths: Oilomatic chain: Chain sprockets: Chain speed: Chain lubrication:
2.5
Special Accessories
2.5.1
For User
STIHL repair kit
1130 900 5000
2.5.2
For Service
Carburetor parts kit
1130 007 1060
4
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2.6
Tightening Torques
Plastoform screws are used for polymer components and "DG" screws for lightmetal components. These screws form a permanent thread when they are installed for the first time. They can be removed and installed as often as necessary without detrimentally affecting the strength of the screwed assembly, providing the specified tightening torque is observed. For this reason it is essential to use a torque wrench.
Fastener
Thread size
For component
Torque Nm lbf.ft
Spline screw
IS-DG 5x24
Ignition module/cylinder
7.5
5.6
Spline screw
IS-DG 5x24
Crankcase
8.0
5.9
Spline screw
IS-DG 5x24
Fan housing/crankcase
4.5
3.3
Spline screw
IS-DG 5x24
Crankcase/cylinder bar mounting
9.5
7.0
Collar screw
M8
Crankcase
16.0
11.8
Flange nut
M 12x1L
Clutch
50.0
37.0
Flange nut
M5
Carburetor
3.5
2.6
Nut
M5
Muffler/cylinder
7.0
5.2
Flange nut
M 8x1
Flywheel
27.5
20.3
M 14x1.25
Spark plug
25.0
18.5
Screw
IS-P 4x12
Hand guard/fan housing
1.7
1.25
Panhead Screw
IS-DG 5x16
Engine housing/Spiked bumper
3.7
2.7
Screw
IS-P 4x19
Handle molding/Handle frame
2.0
1.5
Remarks
1)
2)
Use the following procedure when refitting a P or DG screw in an existing thread: – Place the screw in the hole and rotate it counterclockwise until it drops down slightly. – Tighten the screw clockwise to the specified torque. This procedure ensures that the screw engages properly in the existing thread and does not form a new thread.
Remarks 1) Screw must be secured with adhesive 0786 111 1101 (Loctite 243). 2) Torque may be reduced by approx. 1 Nm (0.7 lbf.ft) when refitting a screw in an existing thread Note: Screws secured with adhesive are easier to release if the adhesive is heated first with a hot air blower (hair dryer). Take care on polymer components.
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5
CLUTCH, CHAIN DRIVE, CHAIN BRAKE AND CHAIN TENSIONER Chain Sprocket
• Unscrew nuts and remove the
3.2
Chain Catcher
143RA006
143RA003
3. 3.1
• Pull off the chain sprocket.
Chain sprocket with integrally molded chain catcher (1).
chain sprocket cover.
143RA007 VA
If the chain catcher has broken off (2), repair as follows:
• Disengage the chain brake by
• Take the needle cage out of the
pulling the hand guard toward the front handle.
sprocket.
• Ease the plug out of the front right-hand AV element.
Reverse the above sequence to install the chain sprocket. Note: Clean stub of crankshaft. Wash needle cage in clean white spirit and lubricate with grease see 11.2. Replace damaged needle cage. Rotate chain sprocket and apply slight pressure at the same same until oil pump drive spring engages properly.
2
• Remove the E-clip (1). • Remove the washer (2).
143RA005
1
• Oil the cylindrical portion (1) of the replacement chain catcher.
• Push the chain catcher into the AV element (2) and engage the peg (3) in the hole (4) at the same time.
6
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3.3
Clutch
Troubleshooting chart - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
1
- Remove the chain sprocket - see 3.1.
• Push the locking strip (1) into the cylinder.
143RA015
143RA013
- Squeeze the interlock lever and throttle trigger.
• Screw clutch onto crankshaft and torque down to 50 Nm (37 lbf.ft). - Remove locking strip from cylinder. - Install spark plug and torque down to 25 Nm (18.5 lbf.ft). - Refit spark plug boot on spark plug.
3
Important: Turn ignition lead so that it does not rest against the cylinder head. 143RA011
143RA014
2
1
• Move Master Control lever (1)
• Unscrew the clutch from the
down to lowest position.
crankshaft.
• Turn twist lock (2) horizontal.
Caution: Clutch has a left-hand thread.
• Lift off the shroud (3).
- Disassemble and reassemble the clutch - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook. 1
• Pull spark plug boot (1) off the spark plug (2). - Unscrew the spark plug.
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143RA016
143RA012
2
• Fit shroud in retainers and turn twist lock to vertical position. - Install chain sprocket - see 3.1.
7
143RA020
• Remove the screw from the
- Remove chain sprocket cover.
143RA023
Disassembling Chain Brake
143RA017
3.4
• Remove the washer.
hand guard. - Disengage chain brake.
- Remove the shroud - see 3.1.
• Ease the cover out of its seat.
1
2
2
• Carefully pry the brake spring (1) off the anchor pin and unhook it from the bell crank (2).
• Ease the E-clip off the bell crank pivot pin.
143RA024
143RA021
143RA018
1
• Carefully ease the hand guard (1) and bell crank (2) off the pivot pins and lift them away together. - Pull the bell crank out of the hand guard.
• Lever the brake band out of the engine housing and detach it from the bell crank (1).
- Slip the strap off the bell crank pivot pin.
• Push the strap to one side and
143RA025
143RA022
143RA019
1
• Take out the flat spring. - Inspect parts. Replace any worn or damaged parts.
remove it from the hand guard pivot pin. 8
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Assembling Chain Brake
143RA027
2
143RA026
1
• Place strap on pivot pin (1) and
- Fit flat spring in position.
• Slide bell crank into end of hand guard. The short arm of the bell crank must point to top of hand guard.
143RA030
3.5
• Hook the brake spring onto the
push it in direction of arrow until it engages the groove. Then push it over the pivot pin (2) and secure with the E-clip.
bell crank.
2
• Attach brake band to the bell
• Fit bell crank (2) on pivot pin and
• Fit the brake band and press it into the engine housing.
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attach the brake spring (1) to the anchor pin.
- Lubricate sliding and bearing points of chain brake with STIHL multipurpose grease or, preferably, Molykote grease - see 11.2.
143RA023
push it into position.
• Fit the washer.
• Use the assembly tool (2) to
crank.
143RA029
guard (1) on pivot pin and fit other end over the housing.
143RA032
• Locate bearing boss of hand
1
143RA031
143RA024
143RA028
1
• Fit cover over chain brake and press it home until it snaps into position.
9
• Fit hand guard over boss on fan housing. - Insert screw and tighten to 1.7 Nm (1.25 lbf.ft).
143RA034
3.7
Bar Studs
143RA035
Front Chain Tensioner
143RA033
3.6
1
- Remove chain sprocket cover.
- Remove chain sprocket cover.
• Pull the cover out of the engine
• Push the stud puller (1) onto the
housing.
stud as far as it will go.
• Unscrew the stud.
- Fit the shroud - see 3.1. - Coat thread of stud with Loctite see 11.2.
1
2
143RA052 VA
3
- Insert stud and torque down to 16 Nm (11.8 lbf.ft).
• Unscrew the nut (1) from the adjusting screw (2) and take the adjusting screw out of the cover (3). Reverse the above sequence to install the chain tensioner.
10
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4. 4.1
ENGINE Exhaust Muffler
4.2
This machine does not have a conventional crankcase. The engine consists of the cylinder, piston, crankshaft and engine pan.
Leakage Test
Defective oil seals and gaskets or cracks in castings are the usual causes of leaks. Such faults allow supplementary air to enter the engine and thus upset the fuel-air mixture.
143RA038
Troubleshooting chart - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
This makes adjustment of the prescribed idle speed difficult, if not impossible. Moreover, the transition from idle speed to part or full throttle is not smooth.
• Pull out the muffler.
The engine housing can be checked thoroughly for leaks with the carburetor and crankcase tester and the vacuum pump.
• Unscrew nuts (1) from muffler.
143RA039
1
143RA036
2
• Remove the gasket.
• Remove the spark arresting screen. - Clean the spark arresting screen or fit a new one if necessary.
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143RA040
143RA037
• Remove the cover plate (2).
• Take the screws out of the flange. Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
11
Pressure Test
143RA043
1
4.2.2
• Check that sleeve is in position
- Remove the muffler - see 4.1.
• Fit the sealing plate (1) between
143RA045
Preparations
143RA041
4.2.1
• Connect tester’s pressure hose
in manifold.
to nipple on test flange. - Make sure the spark plug is properly tightened down.
the screws.
1
• Push the flange (1) over the screws.
• Fit the sleeves (2) on the screws. - Fit the nuts and tighten them down firmly. Note: The sealing plate must completely fill the space between the two screws.
143RA046 VA
1 2
143RA044
2
143RA042
1
• Fit the test flange (1) in place of the carburetor.
• Close the vent screw (1) on the rubber bulb. - Use rubber bulb to pump air into the engine housing until the gauge indicates a pressure of 0.4 bar (5.8 psi). If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the engine housing is airtight.
- Remove the carburetor - see 10.3.2. - Set the piston to top dead center (T.D.C.). This can be checked through the intake port.
12
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4.2.3
Vacuum Test
143RA047
Oil seals tend to fail when subjected to a vacuum, i.e. the sealing lip lifts away from the crankshaft during the piston’s induction stroke because there is no internal counterpressure.
• However, if the indicated
An additional test can be carried out with the vacuum pump to detect this kind of fault. The preparations for this test are the same as for the pressure test see 4.2.1.
pres-sure drops, the leak must be located and the faulty part replaced.
Note: If the vacuum reading remains constant, or rises to no more than 0.3 bar (4.25 psi) within 20 seconds, it can be assumed that the oil seals are in good condition. However, if the pressure continues to rise (reduced vacuum in the engine housing), the oil seals must be replaced, even if no leaks were detected in the pressure test. - After finishing the test, open the vent screw and disconnect the hose. - Remove the test flange and refit the carburetor - see 10.3.2.
Note: To find the leak, coat the suspect area with oil and pressurize the engine housing again. Bubbles will appear if a leak exists.
- Remove the flange. - Remove the sealing plate.
- Carry out the vacuum test - see 4.2.3.
- Install the muffler - see 4.1.
143RA045
- After finishing the test, open the vent screw and disconnect the hose. - Remove the test flange and refit the carburetor - see 10.3.2. - Remove the flange.
• Connect the vacuum pump’s suction hose to test flange nipple.
- Remove the sealing plate. - Install the muffler - see 5.1.
- Make sure the spark plug is properly tightened down.
1
143RA048
2
• Close the vent screw (1) on the rubber bulb.
• Operate lever (2) until pressure gauge indicates a vacuum of 0.4 bar (5.8 psi). 017, 018
13
Removing and Installing Engine
Always check and, if necessary, repair the fuel system, carburetor, air filter and ignition system before looking for faults on the engine.
2
1
- Remove the muffler - see 4.1.
3
- Remove the clutch - see 3.3.
143RA058
2
- Remove handle frame - see 8.4. - Remove the carburetor - see 10.3.2.
• Pull off the short circuit wire (1).
- Remove the flywheel - see 5.3.
• Take out the screws (2). • Remove the ignition module (3).
143RA061
4.3
Reassemble in the reverse sequence. - To fit the manifold in the engine housing intake opening, wind a piece of string (about 15 cm/6" long) around the back of the manifold flange and pass the ends of the string through the intake opening.
• Place the engine in position,
143RA157
143RA059
push the manifold against the intake opening and pull the ends of the string outward at the same time.
• Pull off the worm with drive
• Remove mounting screws from
spring.
underside of engine.
The manifold flange is pulled through the engine housing intake opening without any damage to the manfold. - Torque down engine mounting screws to 9.5 Nm (7.0 lbf.ft).
• Take the sleeve out of the manifold.
14
143RA060
143RA057
- After completing assembly, adjust air gap between ignition module and flywheel - see 5.2.2.
• Remove engine sideways from housing and push the manifold flange out of the intake opening atthe same time.
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4.4
Oil Seals
It is not necessary to disassemble the complete engine housing if only the oil seals have to be replaced.
1
2 1
Important: Take special care not to damage crankshaft stub.
• If new oil seals have already been installed, use puller and No. 3.1 jaws to remove the clamping ring (1). Pry the sealing ring (2) out of the housing.
143RA062
- Clean sealing face on crankshaft stub with standard commercial, solvent-based degreasant containing no chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons - see 11.2.
Clutch side:
• Pry out the retaining ring.
- Pack cavity between sealing lip and oil seal with grease - see 11.2.
143RA066
143RA064 VA
- Remove the engine - see 4.3.
Starter side:
• Apply the puller (1) as at the clutch side and pull out the oil seal. Note: Remove the oil seal with clamping ring as described for clutch side. - Clean sealing face on crankshaft stub with standard commercial, solvent-based degreasant containing no chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons - see 11.2. - Pack cavity between sealing lip and oil seal with grease - see 11.2.
- Thinly coat the outside diameter of the oil seal with sealant - see 11.2. - Position the oil seal so that the clamping ring faces upwards.
- Thinly coat the outside diameter of the oil seal with sealant - see 11.2. - Position the oil seal so that the clamping ring faces upwards.
1 1
• Apply the puller (1) (with No. 3.1 jaws). - Clamp the puller arms.
143RA067
143RA065
143RA063
1
• Use the press sleeve (1) to install the oil seal.
• Screw guide sleeve (1) on to the crankshaft stub.
- Fit the retaining ring in the crankshaft groove.
- Pull out the oil seal. 017, 018
15
4.5
Cylinder
1
1
• Use the press sleeve (1) to press home the oil seal. - Unscrew the guide sleeve.
143RA072
143RA069
143RA068
2
• Lift the crankshaft and pull the
- Remove the engine - see 4.3.
piston out of the cylinder.
• Take the ring (1) and manifold
- Inspect the cylinder and replace it if necessary.
(2) off the intake port.
- Install the engine - see 4.3. Note: If a new cylinder has to be installed, always fit the matching piston. Replacement cylinders are only supplied complete with piston for this reason.
143RA070
- Thoroughly clean all residue of sealant from the cylinder and engine pan mating faces. - Lubricate piston and piston ring with oil.
• Unscrew the engine pan mounting screws. - Pull the engine pan off the cylinder.
Note: Fit the clamp (1) on the connecting rod to prevent it slipping off the crankshaft while the piston is being removed.
16
143RA073
143RA071
1
• Position the piston ring so that the radii at the ring gap meet at the fixing pin in the piston groove when the ring is compressed.
017, 018
• Apply a thin bead of sealant to
• Slide piston carefully into the
Note: Follow manufacturer’s instructions for use of sealant.
the engine pan mating face, see 11.2.
Note: The piston ring is compressed by the inner taper of the cylinder.
143RA079
• Use a scriber or similar tool to ease the hookless snap rings out of the grooves in the piston bosses.
2
2
1
143RA077
1
- Pull the piston out of the cylinder - see 4.5.
143RA080
143RA074
- Apply a thin coating of sealant to the outer diameters of the oil seals, see 11.2. cylinder.
Piston
143RA076
4.6
• Fit the engine pan so that the
• Use the assembly drift (2) to
seat (1) for the oil pump is at the same side as the long crankshaft stub (2).
push the piston pin (1) out of the piston. Note: If the piston pin is stuck, tap the end of the drift lightly with a hammer. Important: Hold the piston steady during this process to ensure that no jolts are transmitted to the connecting rod.
- Insert screws and torque down to 9.5 Nm (7.0 lbf.ft).
1
• Line up the crankshaft so that the long crankshaft stub (2) points to the right when viewed from the exhaust port (2).
2
1
143RA078
2
143RA075
- Remove the piston from the connecting rod.
• Push the manifold on to the intake port so that the peg (1) engages the hole (2). - Install the engine - see 4.3.
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17
4.7
Piston Ring
• Inspect piston ring and replace if necessary - see 4.7. - Oil needle cage in the small end.
• Fit the piston pin (1) on the
143RA086
143RA084
143RA081
1
- Remove the piston - see 4.5.
assembly drift (2) and slide it into the piston (the pin slides home easily if the piston is hot).
- Heat the piston on an electric heating plate to approx. 60° C (140° F).
- Remove ring from piston.
• Use a piece of old piston ring to scrape the groove clean.
2
1
• Slip the piston over the connecting rod so that the arrow (1) on the piston head points towards you when the long stub (2) of the crankshaft points to the left.
• Fit the snap rings. To do this, Apply the installing tool (1) to the piston boss, hold the piston steady, center the tool shank exactly and press home until the snap ring slips into the groove.
143RA087
143RA085
143RA082
1
• Install the new piston ring in the groove so that the radii face upward. - Install the piston - see 4.5.
Note: For instructions on how to use installing tool, see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
1
143RA083
- Install the piston - see 4.5.
• Push the assembly drift (1), snall diameter first, through the piston and small end (needle cage) and line up the piston.
18
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4.8
Connecting Rod
4.9
2
Crankshaft
12 3
• Remove cylindrical rollers from
- Remove the piston - see 4.6.
• Pull the oil seal (1) and ball bear-
the crankshaft. Note: Cylindrical rollers are available in three tolerance groups. Always replace cylindrical rollers in complete sets (13 per set) to ensure that they are all of the same tolerance group.
ing (2) off the short crankshaft stub.
- Use grease, see 11.2, to stick the cylindrical rollers to the crankshaft.
143RA092
143RA091
143RA088
1
- Remove the connecting rod see 4.8.
• Pry out the retaining ring (1). • Pull off the oil seal (2) and ball bearing (3). - Heat ball bearing to approx. 50° C (120° F) and push it on to the crankshaft stub as far as stop. - Coat sealing lip of oil seal with oil.
143RA089
- Slide the connecting rod into position and secure it with the clamp.
• Remove the clamp from the
- Heat ball bearing to approx. 50° C (120° F) and push it on to the crankshaft stub as far as stop.
- Slide oil seal on to crankshaft stub so that the clamping ring points outward (sealing lip also points outward). - Install the connecting rod - see 4.8.
connecting rod. - Coat sealing lip of oil seal with oil. - Slide oil seal on to crankshaft stub so that the clamping ring points outward (sealing lip also points outward).
• Remove the connecting rod from the crankshaft.
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143RA093
143RA090
- Install the piston - see 4.6.
• Apply thin coating of sealant, see 11.2, to outside diameter of oil seals.
19
IGNITION SYSTEM
5.1
Spark Plug Terminal
Warning! Exercise extreme caution when carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or even fatal accidents!
3 2
143RA095
Troubleshooting on the ignition system should always begin at the spark plug. See ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
1
143RA097
5.
• Pinch the hook of the leg spring
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
into the center of the lead, i.e. about 8 mm (0.3") from the end of the lead.
• Pull the terminal (1) off the spark plug (2).
• Pull the ignition lead out of the retainer (3).
1
The electronic (breakerless) ignition system basically consists of an ignition module (1) and fly wheel (2).
• Use pliers to grip the leg spring and pull it out of the spark plug terminal. - Unhook the leg spring from the ignition lead.
• Pull spark plug terminal off the ignition lead. - Coat end of the ignition lead (about 20 mm/3/4") with oil.
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2
• Pull the lead back into the terminal so that the leg spring locates properly inside it (see illustration). - Push the ignition lead into the retainer, see 5.5. - Fit terminal on spark plug. - Fit the shroud - see 3.3.
- Fit spark plug terminal over the ignition lead. - Use pliers to grip the end of the ignition lead inside the spark plug terminal and pull it out.
20
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Ignition Module
Ignition Timing
5.2.2
Removing and Installing
Ignition timing on the electronic (breakerless) magneto ignition system is fixed at 1.3 mm (0.050") B.T.D.C. at 8,000 rpm and is not adjustable.
3
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1
The ignition module accommodates all the components required to control ignition timing. There are only two electrical connections on the coil body: 1. the high voltage output (1) with ignition lead (2) 2. the connector tag (3) for the short circuit wire Accurate testing of the ignition module is only possible with sophisticated test equipment. For this reason it is only necessary to carry out a spark test in the workshop. A new ignition module must be installed if no ignition spark is obtained (after checking that wiring and stop switch are in good condition).
3 2
1
However, in view of the permissible tolerances in the electronic circuit, it may vary between 1.0 and 1.6 mm (0.040" and 0.060") B.T.D.C. at 8,000 rpm. Since there is no mechanical wear in these systems, ignition timing cannot get out of adjustment. However, an internal fault in the circuit can alter the switching point in such a way that a spark test will still show the system to be in order although timing is outside the permissible tolerance. This will impair engine starting and running behavior.
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2
5.2.1
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
• Pull the terminal (1) off the spark plug (2).
• Pull the ignition lead out of the retainer (3).
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5.2
• Pull the short circuit wire off the
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connector tag on the ignition module.
• Remove the ignition module mounting screws. - Remove the ignition module.
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21
5.3
Flywheel
- Remove the spark plug terminal see 5.1.
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- Place the module in position, insert the screws but do not tighten them down yet. Note: Secure the ground wire with the upper mounting screw. Removing the flywheel:
- Use locking strip to block piston see 3.3. - Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
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Note: The ignition lead is molded to the ignition module.
1
Note: If the flywheel cannot be pulled off by hand, screw the puller (1) on to the crankshaft stub. Free off the flywheel by lightly tapping the end of the puller. Unscrew the puller and remove the flywheel.
• Unscrew the flywheel nut.
2
• Slide the setting gauge (1)
• Inspect the condition of the fly-
between the arms of the ignition module and the flywheel magnets. - Press the ignition module against the flywheel and tighten down the mounting screws to a torque of 5.0 Nm (3.7 lbf.ft).
wheel (1) and magnets (2). If you find any damage (e.g. cracks, broken fan blades), fit a new flywheel.
• Pull the flywheel off the crank-
Installing the flywheel:
shaft. Important: Clean the stub of the crankshaft and the flywheel hub bore with a standard commercial, solvent-based degreasant containing no chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons - see 11.2.
- Push the ignition lead into the retainer, see 5.5. - Fit spark plug boot on spark plug.
- Fit the shroud.
- Fit the flywheel. 143RA104
Caution: Turn the ignition lead so that it does not rest against the cylinder head.
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1
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1
- Tighten down flywheel nut to 27.5 Nm (20.2 lbf.ft). Assembly of the remaining parts is now a reversal of the disassembly sequence.
22
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Short Circuit Wire
2
1
1
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2
5.5
- Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
- Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
• Pull retainer (1) off the ignition
- Remove the carburetor - see 10.3.2.
lead.
• Take the upper screw (2) out of
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Ground Wire
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5.4
Note: After installing, push the short circuit wire between the retaining lugs.
• Pull the retainer (1) off the
the ignition module.
ignition lead.
• Pull short circuit wire (2) off the
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connector tag on the ignition module.
• Pull the ground wire off the
Push short circuit wire into recess next to intake opening.
contact spring.
Note: After installing, push the ground wire between the retaining lugs. Push ignition lead into the retainer, see 5.5.
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• Pull short circuit wire out of engine housing. Install in the reverse sequence.
a
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Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
Place short circuit wire and ground wire in the retainer. Push the ignition lead into the retainer so that dimension ,,a“ is about 60 mm (2.5").
23
If the action of the starter rope becomes very stiff and the rope rewinds very slowly or not completely, it can be assumed that the starter mechanism is in order but plugged with dirt. At very low outside temperatures the lubricating oil on the rewind spring may thicken and cause the spring windings to stick together. This has a detrimental effect on the function of the starter mechanism. In such a case it is sufficient to apply a few drops of paraffin (kerosine) to the rewind spring. Then carefully pull out the starter rope several times and allow it to rewind until its normal smooth action is restored.
6.2
Fan Housing
1
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REWIND STARTER General
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6. 6.1
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
• Push the hand frame to one side
• Remove fuel tank and oil tank
until the fan housing can be eased passed the corner (1) and removed.
filler caps together with the cap retainers. - Drain both tanks.
If clogged with dirt or pitch, the entire starter mechanism, including the rewind spring, must be removed and disassembled. Take special care when removing the spring.
• Take out the fan housing mounting screws.
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Lubricate the rewind spring and starter post with STIHL special lubricant, see 11.2, before installing.
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Wash all parts in paraffin or white spirit.
• Pull the fan housing away to the rear. Install in the reverse sequence.
1
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2
• Pull the hand guard (1) off the pin (2) on the fan housing.
24
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6.3 6.3.1
Rewind Spring Replacing
Troubleshooting chart - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
Caution: The rewind spring may pop out and uncoil during installation.
- Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
- If the rewind spring has popped out, refit it as follows:
Note: The wooden assembly block can be placed over the assembly tool to simplify this operation. - Slip the assembly tool with rewind spring over the starter post.
- Pull out the starter rope about 5 cm (2") and hold the rope rotor steady. - While still holding the rope rotor steady, take three full turns off the rope rotor. - Pull out the rope with the starter grip and then let go of the rope rotor.
a
- Remove the rope rotor, see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook, use pliers to remove any remaining pieces of spring from the fan housing.
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Note: The replacement spring comes ready for installation and is held by a retainer. It should be lubricated with a few drops of STIHL special lubricant before installation - see 11.2.
1
• Position anchor loop about
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Note: The rope rotor will spin back and relieve the tension of the rewind spring. The rewind spring will not be under tension if the starter rope is broken.
• Push the rewind spring into the
11 mm (0.4") (dimension ’a’) from the edge of the assembly tool (1).
fan housing and then remove the assembly tool. - Install the rope rotor - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook. - Tension the rewind spring - see 6.3.2.
1
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2
The retainer (1) slips off as the rewind spring is pressed into the fan housing. Engage the anchor loop (2) over the lug in the fan housing.
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• Fit the rewind spring in the assembly tool in the counterclockwise direction, starting outside and working inwards.
25
6.3.2
Tensioning
6.4 - Hold the starter grip firmly to keep the rope tensioned.
Note: For descriptions of procedures for replacing the pawl or the rope guide bush, see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
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- Let go of the rope rotor and slowly release the starter grip so that the rope winds itself onto the rotor.
Starter Rope, Pawl, Rope Guide Bush
• Grip the rope close to the rotor
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• Make a loop in the starter rope.
Note: The rewind spring is correctly tensioned when the starter grip sits firmly in the rope guide bush without drooping to one side. If this is not the case, tension the spring by one additional turn.
and use it to turn the rope rotor six full turns clockwise.
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When the starter rope is fully extended, it must still be possible to rotate the rope rotor at least another half turn before maximum spring tension is reached. If this is not the case, pull the rope out, hold the rope rotor steady and take off one turn of the rope.
• Hold the rope rotor steady.
Do not overtension the rewind spring as this will cause it to break. - Refit the fan housing - see 6.2.
• Pull out the rope with the starter grip and straighten it out.
26
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7.
AV HANDLE SYSTEM
Rubber anti-vibration buffers are installed between the engine housing and handle frame. Damaged rubber buffers (annular buffers) must always be replaced in sets.
Lower annular buffer in engine housing
Upper annular buffer in engine housing
- Remove the fuel tank - see 10.7.
- Remove the engine - see 4.3.
- Remove the handle frame - see 8.4.
• Pry the annular buffer out of the
• Pry the plug out of the annular
handle frame.
• Pry the plug out of the annular
buffer.
buffer.
- Pry annular buffer out of engine housing.
- Pry annular buffer out of engine housing.
1
1
1
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2
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2
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2
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Annular buffer in handle frame:
• Push the new annular buffer into
• Push the new annular buffer into
• Push the new annular buffer into
the handle frame until its groove (1) engages the inner rib (2).
housing from outside until its groove (1) engages the inner rib (2).
housing from outside until its groove (1) engages the inner rib (2).
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27
8. 8.1
MASTER CONTROL/HANDLE SYSTEM Switch
8.2
Contact Spring
• Set Master Control to
The thumb-operated Master Control lever moves the switch shaft to select the required function.
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1 2 3 4
- Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
“CHOKE” (4) • Pull choke rod out of the switch shaft and choke shaft.
• Pull ground wire off the contact spring.
The following positions can be selected with the Master Control lever: (closes short circuit contact and interrupts ignition)
RUN (2)
(normal operating position)
1
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START (3) (warm start starting throttle/ choke shutter open) CHOKE (4) (cold start starting throttle/ choke shutter closed)
• Pry the switch shaft out of its
• Pull the contact spring out of its
pivot mount.
seat in the engine housing.
- Pull the switch shaft out of the bore (1).
- Remove the filter housing - see 10.2.
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STOP (1)
Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
• Pull short circuit wire out of connector (1) on switch shaft.
• Pull contact sleeve of short
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1
Note: The contact spring must be lifted slightly to install the switch shaft. Press switch shaft into its pivot mount.
circuit wire out of switch shaft.
28
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8.3
Throttle Trigger/Interlock Lever
1
1 2 1
2
• Take the throttle trigger off the
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
1
Note: Engage pivots (1) in holes (2) and press handle molding home until it snaps into position.
throttle rod (1).
• Pry the handle molding off the
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2
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handle frame.
• Take the torsion spring out of its
• Take the torsion spring off the
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throttle trigger.
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seat in the interlock lever.
• Remove the throttle trigger from the pivot.
• Pull the interlock lever off the pivot. Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
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29
8.4
Handle Frame
2
• Push the handle frame to one
- Remove the filter housing - see 10.2.
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1
Note: The pin (1) must engage the hole.
side and lift it away.
• Disconnect throttle rod from the
The groove (2) must engage the inner rib in the handle frame.
throttle shaft.
• Pry the plugs out of the annular
• Remove the throttle trigger (1)
buffers.
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1
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2
• Install annular buffer in handle
and interlock lever (2) - see 8.3.
frame. - Fit plugs in the annular buffers.
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- Fit the filter housing - see 10.2.
• Push the annular buffers out of their seats.
• Remove the annular buffer - see 7. Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
30
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CHAIN LUBRICATION Oil Pump
Troubleshooting chart - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
2
1
1
• Screw puller (1) into the oil pump.
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Impurities gradually clog the fine pores of the filter with tiny particles of dirt. This prevents the oil pump from supplying sufficient oil to the bar and chain. In the event of problems with the oil supply system, first check the oil tank and the pickup body. Clean the oil tank if necessary.
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9. 9.1
• Unscrew the oil pump (1) from the puller (2).
Removing oil pump: - Remove the handle frame - see 8.4.
• Pry the suction hose out of its seat.
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1 2
- Swing lever down into puller.
Installing the oil pump:
• Push connecting pin through
• Place the oil pump in position
hole marked ,,1130".
so that the left edge (1) of the groove lines up with the step (2).
1
• Fit lever (1) of installing tool in the bore for the annular buffer from inside.
• Push lever upward to pull the oil pump out of the housing.
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1
• Insert installer (1) with straight stem in the oil pump.
- Swing the lever up and out of the way. 017, 018
31
Oil Tank
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9.3
- Swing lever down into installer.
- Remove the clutch - see 3.3.
- Push connecting pin through hole marked ,,1130".
• Pull the worm with drive spring
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Worm
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9.2
- Remove the handle frame - see 8.4.
• Pry the suction hose out of its
off the crankshaft stub.
seat.
• Press lever down until the installer butts against the housing. The oil pump is thus installed at the right depth in the housing. - Remove the lever. - Push the suction hose into its seat.
• Take the drive spring off the worm.
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- Fit the handle frame - see 8.4.
• Remove the oil and fuel tank filler caps together with the cap retainers.
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Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
• Take out the fan housing mounting screws. - Remove the fan housing.
32
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9.4
Suction Hose/ Pickup Body - Wash the pickup body in white spirit and, if possible, blow it out with compressed air. Note: Replace the pickup body if it is damaged.
• Remove the flywheel - see 5.3.
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- Flush out the oil tank.
- Remove the oil tank - see 9.3.
• Pry flange of oil suction hose out
- Fit the suction hose, pickup body first, in the tank. - Press the hose flange into position. Note: Coat the hose flange with a little oil to simplify installation.
of oil tank.
2
• Pull out the oil tank.
• Pull suction hose with pickup
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1
• Line up the suction hose so that
body out of oil tank.
its end (1) points to the center of the curved section (2).
Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
Note: When reinstalling, pass the suction hose through the hole.
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- Install the oil tank - see 9.3.
• Pull the pickup body off the suction hose.
33
10. 10.1
FUEL SYSTEM Air Filter
10.2
Filter Housing
10.3 Carburetor 10.3.1 Leakage Testing Troubleshooting chart - see ,,General Servicing, Troubleshooting“ handbook.
Dirty and clogged air filters reduce engine power, increase fuel consumption and make starting more difficult.
The carburetor can be tested for leaks with the carburetor and crankcase tester. 143RA169
The air filter should always be cleaned when engine power begins to drop off. - Remove the shroud - see 3.3. - Clean away any loose dirt from around the filter.
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
- Remove the shroud - see 3.3.
• Remove the filter element.
• Pull away the filter housing.
- Wash the filter element in a fresh, non-flammable cleaning solution (e.g. warm soapy water) and, if possible, blow out with compressed air. Soften encrusted dirt by soaking the parts in cleaning solution.
- Inspect the filter element - see 10.1.
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• Unscrew the mounting nuts.
• Pull fuel hose off carburetor elbow connector.
Note: If filter is damaged, install new part immediately.
Install in the reverse sequence. Note: Tighten mounting nuts to 3.5 Nm (2.6 lbf.ft). 2
1
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Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
• Push the fuel line (1) onto the nipple (2).
34
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10.3.2 Removing and Installing
1
3
2
6 3
• Use fuel line (1) with nipple (2) as adapter to make connection between tester and carburetor elbow connector.
• Push the nipple into the tester’s
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5 3
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4
Note: Before installing carburetor, check that sleeve is in position in manifold.
- Remove the switch shaft - see 8.1.
• Pull the fuel hose off carburetor elbow connector.
pressure hose (4).
• Close the vent screw (5) on the rubber bulb (6) and pump air into the carburetor until the pressure gauge shows a reading of approx. 0.4 bar (5.8 psi).
1. The inlet needle is not sealing (foreign matter in valve seat or sealing cone of inlet needle is damaged or inlet control lever sticking).
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If this pressure remains constant, the carburetor is airtight. However, if it drops, there are two possible causes:
• Disconnect the throttle rod from the throttle shaft.
2. The metering diaphragm is damaged. In either case the carburetor must be removed and serviced - see ,,Carburetor“ handbook. - After completing test, open the vent screw and pull the fuel line off the elbow connector.
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- Push the fuel hose onto the carburetor elbow connector. - Fit the shroud - see 3.3.
• Pull the carburetor off the mounting studs. Install in the reverse sequence.
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35
10.4
Carburetor Adjustment
10.5
The carburetor is equipped with a fixed jet in place of the high speed adjusting screw (H screw). Maximum engine speed is permanently set and cannot be adjusted. Only the engine idle speed can be adjusted within fine limits. The carburetor guarantees an optimum fuel-air mixture in all operating conditions.
Adjusting idle speed It is usually necessary to change the setting of the idle speed screw (LA) after every correction to the low speed adjusting screw (L). Note: Turn screws very slowly and carefully - even slight adjustments produce a noticeable change in engine running behavior.
Engine stops while idling – Check standard setting.
Pickup Body
The diaphragm pump draws fuel out of the tank and into the carburetor via the fuel hose. Any impurities mixed with the fuel are retained by the pickup body (filter). The fine pores of the filter eventually become clogged with minute particles of dirt. This restricts the passage of fuel and results in fuel starvation. Important: In the event of trouble with the fuel supply system, always check the fuel tank and the pickup body first. Clean the fuel tank if necessary.
Turn idle speed stop screw (LA) clockwise until the chain begins to run - then turn it back one quarter turn.
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2
Standard setting If the carburetor has to be adjusted from scratch, first carry out the standard setting. Carefully screw down the low speed adjusting screw (L) until it is hard against its seat. Then open it one full turn counterclockwise.
Turn the idle speed stop screw (LA) counterclockwise until the chain stops running - and then turn it about another half turn in the same direction. Erratic idling behavior, poor acceleration even though low speed adjusting screw is one turn open Idle setting too lean. Turn the low speed adjusting screw (L) counterclockwise until the engine runs and accelerates smoothly.
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1
Chain runs while engine is idling – Check standard setting.
Cleaning the fuel tank
• Unscrew the filler cap and drain the tank. - Pour a small amount of clean gasoline into the tank. - Close the tank and shake the saw vigorously.
- Check chain tension.
- Open the tank again and drain it.
- Check air filter and clean if necessary.
Note: Dispose of old fuel at approved disposal site.
- Start the saw warm up the engine. - Adjust idle speed correctly (chain must not rotate).
36
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10.6
Tank Vent
10.7
Fuel Tank
- Remove the fan housing - see 6.2.
Pickup body
• Use the assembly hook (1) to
- Drain the fuel tank.
pull the pickup body out of the fuel tank.
• Pull fuel hose off carburetor elbow connector.
hose.
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Note: Do not stretch the fuel hose while removing it.
• Pull the pickup body off the fuel
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Important: In the event of trouble with the carburetor or the fuel supply system, always check and clean the tank vent.
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1
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Correct operation of the carburetor is only possible if atmospheric pressure and internal fuel tank pressure are equal at all times. This is ensured by the tank vent.
• Pull the fuel tank out of the
Equalization of pressure from the outside inwards takes place via the valve.
engine housing.
- Fit a new pickup body. Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
Note: Valve opening must be clean.
1
Equalization of pressure from the inside outwards takes place passed the sides of the valve.
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2
• Remove the fuel hose (1) and valve (2). Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
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37
Note: When pushing the fuel tank into position, route the fuel hose between the straps on the engine housing (see illustration).
1
- Remove the fuel tank - see 10.7.
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Fuel Hose
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10.8
• Pull the grommet off the fuel hose.
• Use assembly hook (1) to pull
Reassemble in the reverse sequence.
the pickup body out of the tank.
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Note: Coat the grommet with a little oil to simplify installation.
• Pull the pickup body off the fuel
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hose.
• Pry the grommet out of the tank and pull out the fuel hose.
38
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11. 11.1
SPECIAL SERVICING TOOLS AND AIDS Special Servicing Tools
No.
Part Name
Part No.
Application
1 2
Locking strip for piston Sealing plate
0000 893 5903 0000 855 8106
Blocking the crankshaft Sealing exhaust port for leakage test
3 4 5 6
1123 855 4200 1123 851 8300 1118 850 4200 1106 850 2905
7 8 9 10 11 12 13
- Flange - Bushing Test flange Carburetor and crankcase tester Vacuum pump - Nipple - Fuel line Puller - Jaws (No. 3.1) Press sleeve Guide sleeve
0000 850 3501 0000 855 9200 1110 141 8600 0000 890 4400 0000 893 3706 1123 893 2400 1123 894 7700
14 15 16
Clamp Assembly drift Installing rool 8
1120 893 9100 1114 893 4700 5910 890 2208
17 18 19
Assembly tool Stud puller M8 Setting gauge
1117 890 0900 5910 893 0501 1111 890 6400
20 21 22 23 24
Assembly tool Assembly tool - Puller - Installer Assembly hook
1116 893 4800 1123 890 2200 1130 893 1400 1130 893 1500 5910 893 8800
25 26 27
Assembly stand Clamping rail Torque wrench
28
Torque wrench
29 30
Screwdriver QI-T27x150 Crimping tool
5910 850 3100 5910 890 2000 5910 890 0301 5910 890 0302 5910 890 0311 5910 890 0312 5910 890 2400 5910 890 8210
31 32 33 34
Puller Socket, 13 mm Socket, 19 mm Socket T 27x125
1116 893 0800 5910 893 5608 5910 893 5612 0812 542 2104
Rem.
Leakage test Testing engine housing and carburetor for leaks Testing engine housing for leaks
Removing oil seals Installing oil seals Protecting oil seal at starter side Holding big end bearing Fitting piston pin Fitting hookless snap rings in piston Fitting brake spring Removing bar mounting studs Setting air gap bettween ignition module and flywheel Installing rewind spring Removing oil pump
Removing pickup body (fuel) Holding saw for repairs For mounting saw to assembly stand Screw assemblies (0.5 to 18 Nm) Screw assemblies (6 to 80 Nm) For all IS screws Attaching connectors to electrical wires Removing flywheel Flywheel nut Clutch IS screws
1) 1) 2) 3)
Remarks: 1) Always use torque wrench to tighten DG screws. 2) Wrench has optical/acoustic signal. 3) On DG screws, use for releasing only. 017, 018
39
11.2
Servicing Aids
No.
Part Name
Part No.
Application
1
Lubricating grease
0781 120 1111
Oil seals, oil pump drive, chain sprocket bearing, chain tensioner, switch shaft/contact spring
2
Standard commercial, solvent-based degreasant without chlorinated or halogenated hydricarbons
3
STIHL special lubricant
0781 417 1315
4
Electrician’s repair kit
5910 007 1050
5
Graphite grease
Peg on starter pawl
6
Molykote grease
Sliding and pivot points of chain brake
7
Dirko sealant (100 g/3.5 oz)
0783 830 2120
Engine pan, oil seals (outside diameter)
8
Securing screws (Loctite 242)
0786 111 1101
Engine housing mounting screws
9
Screw set
5910 007 1060
40
Cleaning crankshaft stub
Bearing bore in rope rotor, rewind spring in starter cover
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