Moscow In Your Pocket August - September 2012

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

MOSCOW   August - Septem September ber 2012

Napoleon’s Borodino Read the story stor y of 1812 1812 and Napoleon’s incredible defeat 

Park Life Free concerts, Free conc erts, cycling, picnics and fun in Moscow’s best be st parks

August - September 2012 N 22 moscow.inyourpocket.co moscow.inyourpocket.co m o

Contents

ESSENTIAL

CITY

GUIDES

Contents 4

20

Hotels

22

Restaurants

25

Moscow never sleeps

38

Sightseeing

44

Veliky Novgorod

52

What’s new in the city 

5

See St. Petersburg

54

Basics

6

Shopping

56

Business Directory

57

News

Getting Around Planes, trains and automobiles

Language

8 10

The Patriotic War of 1812 Napoleon’s greatest defeat 

11

Culture and Events What’s on in August and September 

14

moscow.inyourpocket.com

4

Exhibitions

Nightlife

Foreword A word from our editor 

Lifestyle Directory Expat life, health and relaxation

59

Maps

62

Street Register

66

Metro Map

67

August - September 2012

News

Foreword Russians love celebrating their  yubilei  (anniversaries) and there’s certainly a lot of them going around. This year Russia has been marking a particularly big one - that of 200 years since the Napoleonic invasion of 1812. Inspired by the story of  Napoleon’s defeat and its lasting impressions on the city we have devoted our feature this issue to retelling the incredible story. In our events chapter you can find out how you can relive Borodino (minus the death and destruction) this September, while in our sightseeing pages we’ve detailed places where you can get up to some Napoleonic sightseeing within the city. Those of you who are more gourmands than history buffs may  also choose to mark the occasion with a slice of the traditional Napoleon cake. Basically a Russian version of the sweet French mille feuille, renamed by the Russians during the 19th Century  the tort Napoleon is probably one of our favourite things on the Russian dessert menu. After many tireless taste tests in Moscow’s Russian restaurants these last months (all in the interests of research naturally), the In Your Pocket team finally  granted Dacha na Pokrovke’s version the best. Of course we haven’t only had our head s stuck in books while stuffing ourselves with cake these last weeks. We’ve also been out taking advantage of the incredible weather by visiting  all the best summer terraces, gardens and open-air bars we could find. Whether you are looking for coffee and cake, sizzling  shashlik, pizza, fine dining, roof top views, beer gardens, the great outdoors, street café culture or even a swimming pool in an ex-bottle factory - we’ve got you covered. Whatever you get up to this summer; be it walking in Napoleon’s  footsteps, stuffing your face with cakes and kebabs, sipping  cocktails on a rooftop or keeping fit in one of the city’s beauti ful parks remember to keep in touch with us. You can now catch all the latest Moscow news and e vents, read all the latest listings, as well as share your comments with us on facebook at www.  facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket.  facebook.com/MoscowInY ourPocket. Louise Whitworth, Russia In Your Pocket

Cover story Our cover picture takes in the view over the roof terraces of  the hip Red October Factory area towards the Cathedral of  Christ the Saviour. Destroyed Destroyed in the 1930s and rebuilt in the 1990s, the original cathedral was built in 1860 in memory  of Russia’s war with Napoleon. Photo by Dreamstime.

ESSENTIAL

CITY

GUIDES

Moscow In Your Pocket  founded and published by  OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, [email protected] tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65,  fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected] General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] Accountant [email protected] © OOO Krasnaya Sh apka/In Your Pocket  Published 6 times per year with supplements, No22, 01-08-2012, 60.000 copies © Maps the BCB-Group

Moscow In Your Pocket

3

New alcohol sales rules

The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

This July the Russian government continued its attempts to crack down on Russia’s high rate of alcohol consumption with a series of new laws. The first victim of the new initiative has been the advertising industr y with the new proposals banning  alcohol advertising from TV, radio and the front and back pages of newspapers and magazines, in a move which some think  could even extent to a full ‘media’ ban. The second victims have been late night beer kiosks. According to new rules the sale of  beer, wine and alcopops is prohibited along with the sale of  harder liquor between the hours of 22:00 and 10:00. At the time of printing wily shopkeepers were skirting the ban by offering   free cans of beer when customers bought other products from their stores, although how long late night beer drinkers will be able to avoid the long arm of the law remains to be seen. It is still permitted to buy alcohol in bars and restaurants at night, provided the venue has the correct license.

Estonia Russia

Latvia

Ireland

Lithuania Belarus Netherlands

Poland

Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montene ro Kosovo

Switzerland

It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius of Vilnius,, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced cit y guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five amazing five million. million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just  launched a new version of our iPhone our iPhone app, app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all t hat’s new at In Your  Pocket, like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/  inyourpocket).

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editor Louise Whitworth [email protected] Layout & Design Malvina Markina [email protected] Research Ksenia Elzes, Nikolay Pozdnyakov [email protected]

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at  the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Commercial department Sales Manager Natalia Murgo +7 926 243 2032 [email protected] To order issues Tanya Kharitonova [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of  this publication may be reproduced in any   form, except brief extracts for the purpos e of  review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license  from UAB In Your Pocket.

Mосква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No. 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No22. 01.08.2012

moscow inyourpo cket com

AIESEC IC 2012 If you instantly deciphered the acronym in the title of this ar ticle then you are most likely one of the 60,000 current members of AIESEC or indeed one of more than 1 million AIESEC alumni. AIESEC (L’Association Internationale des Etudiants Sciences, Economiqu es et Commerciales) is the world’s largest student  led organisation fostering links between students and the wider business community by facilitating international traineeships and exchanges. This year Moscow has for the  first time the honour of hosting hundred s of AIESECERs from more than 110 countries at AIESEC’s 64 annual international congress. While the congress is only open to current AIESEC  members, there will also be an AIESEC alumni event running  concurrently for any former members looking to reconn ect and get involved in the global village. To find out more about AIESEC  and what they do, check out the official website ic2012.ru

Uraza Bayram On Sunday 19 August the month long Muslim fasting holiday  of Ramadan finally ends. It is estimated that Moscow has between one and two million Muslims, most of whom hail  from Tatarstan, Centra l A sia and the Russian Cauca sus. For most Russian Muslims the grand Eid al-fatir feast  holiday is known by its Turkic name Uraza Bayram. Usually  the main hub of prayers and religious activity in Moscow is the Grand Mosque just off Prospekt Mira, which is currently  undergoing major reconstruction to vastly increase its size. Although largely Tatar, the Grand Mosque and the larger  Memorial Mosque at Poklonnaya Gora (metro Park Pobedy) accept Muslims from across the world. Some embassies such as the Malaysian embassy also usually organise their  own celebrations for their citizens. For those looking to buy  Halal products the mega-market chain Auchan stocks Halal  food, as does the Tatar supermarke t Bakhtele, al though be sure to double check before buying. For news from the local Muslim community, check out the website www.muslim.ru. www.muslim.ru.

Russian Olympic Hopes This August the London Olympics 2012 are finally underway  and after an extremely poor showing at the 2010 Winter  Olympics, Russians are hoping that the summer Olympic team will finally return home with their heads high. The Russian team expect to take home some 25 gold medals and inch in on the Chinese and Americans at the top of the medal table ahead of the British hosts. They will be eyeing up bi g success in the wrestling after winning 11 medals in Beijing in 2008 (6 of which were gold), while tenni s star Maria Sharapova is also hoping to get on the medal table after disappointments in the grand slams. Other disciplines which the Russians traditionally  excel in include boxing, gymnastics and synchronised swimming. The biggest interest however lies in the track and  field. Russians will b e watchi ng the outstandin g cham pion pole-vaulter Yelena Isinbayeva particularly closely as well as the young high jumper Ivan Ukhov who has been successfully  working hard to bring his career back into focus after turning  up drunk to an event in Switzerland in 2009. As in previous years the Russian Olympic mascot for 2012 is expected to be the cute and cuddly big-eared Cheburashka. The Olympic team’s official kit has again been colourfully designed by the Russian sports brand Bosco, whose winter Olympic clothing  proved particularly popular in 2010.

Jewish New Year  September is the beginnin g of the most important time of the year for the Jewish communi ty. This year Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, starts at night fall on September 16. The holiday marks an important time of reflection when people look back on the year that has passed and prepare for the ten days of repentance leading up to Yom Kippur the day of  repentance which falls this year on September 26. If you are looking to attend a synagogue during the hol iday Moscow has numerous synagogues, of which the one on ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya is probably the most international.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

5

4

News

Foreword Russians love celebrating their  yubilei  (anniversaries) and there’s certainly a lot of them going around. This year Russia has been marking a particularly big one - that of 200 years since the Napoleonic invasion of 1812. Inspired by the story of  Napoleon’s defeat and its lasting impressions on the city we have devoted our feature this issue to retelling the incredible story. In our events chapter you can find out how you can relive Borodino (minus the death and destruction) this September, while in our sightseeing pages we’ve detailed places where you can get up to some Napoleonic sightseeing within the city. Those of you who are more gourmands than history buffs may  also choose to mark the occasion with a slice of the traditional Napoleon cake. Basically a Russian version of the sweet French mille feuille, renamed by the Russians during the 19th Century  the tort Napoleon is probably one of our favourite things on the Russian dessert menu. After many tireless taste tests in Moscow’s Russian restaurants these last months (all in the interests of research naturally), the In Your Pocket team finally  granted Dacha na Pokrovke’s version the best. Of course we haven’t only had our head s stuck in books while stuffing ourselves with cake these last weeks. We’ve also been out taking advantage of the incredible weather by visiting  all the best summer terraces, gardens and open-air bars we could find. Whether you are looking for coffee and cake, sizzling  shashlik, pizza, fine dining, roof top views, beer gardens, the great outdoors, street café culture or even a swimming pool in an ex-bottle factory - we’ve got you covered. Whatever you get up to this summer; be it walking in Napoleon’s  footsteps, stuffing your face with cakes and kebabs, sipping  cocktails on a rooftop or keeping fit in one of the city’s beauti ful parks remember to keep in touch with us. You can now catch all the latest Moscow news and e vents, read all the latest listings, as well as share your comments with us on facebook at www.  facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket.  facebook.com/MoscowInY ourPocket. Louise Whitworth, Russia In Your Pocket

GUIDES

Moscow In Your Pocket  founded and published by  OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, [email protected] tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65,  fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected] General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] Accountant [email protected] © OOO Krasnaya Sh apka/In Your Pocket  Published 6 times per year with supplements, No22, 01-08-2012, 60.000 copies © Maps the BCB-Group

Belarus Netherlands

Poland

Germany Belgium Czech Republic

Ukraine

Austria Romania Slovenia Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montene ro Kosovo

Switzerland

It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius of Vilnius,, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest  publisher of locally produced cit y guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five amazing five million. million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just  launched a new version of our iPhone our iPhone app, app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore . Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all t hat’s new at In Your  Pocket, like  us on Facebook (facebook.com/  inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/  inyourpocket).

Editorial department

Editor’s note

Editor Louise Whitworth [email protected] Layout & Design Malvina Markina [email protected] Research Ksenia Elzes, Nikolay Pozdnyakov [email protected]

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at  the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Commercial department Sales Manager Natalia Murgo +7 926 243 2032 [email protected] To order issues Tanya Kharitonova [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2012. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All rights reserved. No part of  this publication may be reproduced in any   form, except brief extracts for the purpos e of  review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license  from UAB In Your Pocket.

Mосква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114 Заказ No. 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No22. 01.08.2012

Moscow In Your Pocket

6

Russia

Latvia Lithuania

Our cover picture takes in the view over the roof terraces of  the hip Red October Factory area towards the Cathedral of  Christ the Saviour. Destroyed Destroyed in the 1930s and rebuilt in the 1990s, the original cathedral was built in 1860 in memory  of Russia’s war with Napoleon. Photo by Dreamstime.

CITY

This July the Russian government continued its attempts to crack down on Russia’s high rate of alcohol consumption with a series of new laws. The first victim of the new initiative has been the advertising industr y with the new proposals banning  alcohol advertising from TV, radio and the front and back pages of newspapers and magazines, in a move which some think  could even extent to a full ‘media’ ban. The second victims have been late night beer kiosks. According to new rules the sale of  beer, wine and alcopops is prohibited along with the sale of  harder liquor between the hours of 22:00 and 10:00. At the time of printing wily shopkeepers were skirting the ban by offering   free cans of beer when customers bought other products from their stores, although how long late night beer drinkers will be able to avoid the long arm of the law remains to be seen. It is still permitted to buy alcohol in bars and restaurants at night, provided the venue has the correct license.

Estonia

Ireland

Cover story

ESSENTIAL

New alcohol sales rules

The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

AIESEC IC 2012 If you instantly deciphered the acronym in the title of this ar ticle then you are most likely one of the 60,000 current members of AIESEC or indeed one of more than 1 million AIESEC alumni. AIESEC (L’Association Internationale des Etudiants Sciences, Economiqu es et Commerciales) is the world’s largest student  led organisation fostering links between students and the wider business community by facilitating international traineeships and exchanges. This year Moscow has for the  first time the honour of hosting hundred s of AIESECERs from more than 110 countries at AIESEC’s 64 annual international congress. While the congress is only open to current AIESEC  members, there will also be an AIESEC alumni event running  concurrently for any former members looking to reconn ect and get involved in the global village. To find out more about AIESEC  and what they do, check out the official website ic2012.ru

Uraza Bayram On Sunday 19 August the month long Muslim fasting holiday  of Ramadan finally ends. It is estimated that Moscow has between one and two million Muslims, most of whom hail  from Tatarstan, Centra l A sia and the Russian Cauca sus. For most Russian Muslims the grand Eid al-fatir feast  holiday is known by its Turkic name Uraza Bayram. Usually  the main hub of prayers and religious activity in Moscow is the Grand Mosque just off Prospekt Mira, which is currently  undergoing major reconstruction to vastly increase its size. Although largely Tatar, the Grand Mosque and the larger  Memorial Mosque at Poklonnaya Gora (metro Park Pobedy) accept Muslims from across the world. Some embassies such as the Malaysian embassy also usually organise their  own celebrations for their citizens. For those looking to buy  Halal products the mega-market chain Auchan stocks Halal  food, as does the Tatar supermarke t Bakhtele, al though be sure to double check before buying. For news from the local Muslim community, check out the website www.muslim.ru. www.muslim.ru.

Russian Olympic Hopes This August the London Olympics 2012 are finally underway  and after an extremely poor showing at the 2010 Winter  Olympics, Russians are hoping that the summer Olympic team will finally return home with their heads high. The Russian team expect to take home some 25 gold medals and inch in on the Chinese and Americans at the top of the medal table ahead of the British hosts. They will be eyeing up bi g success in the wrestling after winning 11 medals in Beijing in 2008 (6 of which were gold), while tenni s star Maria Sharapova is also hoping to get on the medal table after disappointments in the grand slams. Other disciplines which the Russians traditionally  excel in include boxing, gymnastics and synchronised swimming. The biggest interest however lies in the track and  field. Russians will b e watchi ng the outstandin g cham pion pole-vaulter Yelena Isinbayeva particularly closely as well as the young high jumper Ivan Ukhov who has been successfully  working hard to bring his career back into focus after turning  up drunk to an event in Switzerland in 2009. As in previous years the Russian Olympic mascot for 2012 is expected to be the cute and cuddly big-eared Cheburashka. The Olympic team’s official kit has again been colourfully designed by the Russian sports brand Bosco, whose winter Olympic clothing  proved particularly popular in 2010.

Jewish New Year  September is the beginnin g of the most important time of the year for the Jewish communi ty. This year Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, starts at night fall on September 16. The holiday marks an important time of reflection when people look back on the year that has passed and prepare for the ten days of repentance leading up to Yom Kippur the day of  repentance which falls this year on September 26. If you are looking to attend a synagogue during the hol iday Moscow has numerous synagogues, of which the one on ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya is probably the most international.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Basics Every different country is different in their own way to paraphrase heavily from Tolstoy. Whether its unfamiliar sign verbage, table manners or a communications system that   just seems slightly of f. Given the Soviet imposed isolation i n the not-so-distant past, a rapidly changing economic climate and the simple fact that Russia is the biggest country on the globe, it’s not surprising that it’s a bit quirkier than most. Never   fear. We’ve We’ve got you covered on the essential do’s and don’t’s.

Alcohol While Russia is still the land of vod ka, it’s also a country which loves beer - at any time. Day or night or on the way to work. Be ready to see drunk people anytime, anywhere. Russians pivo ) than anything else. Vodka is cheap drink more beer ( pivo  with literally hundreds of brands to choose from. Russky  Standart Platinum, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. Locally brewed cheap staples for Moscovites are Sibirskaya Korona and Zolotaya Bochka. Sovietskoe Shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink. Take note you cannot buy alcohol in stores between 22:00 and 10:00.

Crossing the road

Basics Making a Call

Aeroexpr ess Airpor t Trains

Calling Internationally

The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run betwe en Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsk y Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsk y Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35–40 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpresstickets Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket  counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 100Rbl for  children between five and seven years of age. Children under the age of fi ve travel for free. Business class tickets cost 550Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is 350Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. The first train departs at 05:00, with the last one d epart epart ing at 00.30. Please note that depending on the time of  day, trains run at thirty minute or one hour intervals. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

Phone cards are a a convenient way to make international calls at affordable costs and are available from various phone shops such as the bright yellow Evroset. To phone home you need to dial 8, wait a little, then 10, followed by  the country code, city code and actual telephone number.

Calling within Russia For calling within Russia or even within Moscow where there are different codes, simply dial 8 (from a landline) or +7 (from a mobile), then wait for a long tone, then the city code, then the number. Russian city codes Archang Archangelsk elsk 8182/8 8182/818 18 Irkutsk  3952 Ka za zan 8432 Moscow 495/499 Murmansk  8152/81522 Leningrad 8 13 Oblast 

Novgor Novgorod od Novosibirsk Pet ro roza vo vo ds ds k Pskov St.Petersburg Vla di vos tok

8162/8 8162/8162 1622 2 3832 8142 8112/81122 812 4232

Foreigner prices

Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn this word переход! It means perekhod in Russian or  underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out  although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are stil l required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you have a document ( propusk  propusk ), which says you work or study  in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.

Customs

Internet Access and Mobile Phones

For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you d o NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying  thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought  get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura ( Kitaigorodsky Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or  an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. Go inside buy a drink and surf the web. In most places you will need to ask for a password ( parol ) to logon. If you don’t  have a laptop or phone that can access the internet, then you will need to head to an internet cafe - of which there are  few in Moscow. One of the most cen tral can be found at the entrance to Okhotny Ryad shopping centre, but note it is only open until 23:00.

Climate Moscow Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat  of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny  month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget  your sunglasses!

Mobile phones.You phones. You can use your mobile your mobile phone from phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. If you call with your mobile to a Russian number, you‘ll need to put in all the numbers, so for Moscow +7 495 followed by the number. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. They range in price starting   from 200Rbl up to 400Rbl depen ding on the package. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card and to put your old number onto a new sim card if  you lose your phone. Note that outside Moscow your Russian sim will also be on roaming.

Post  Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post  system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city.

Central Telegraph Office C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTverskaya. Despite the name, doe s all postal related chores including sending parcels, faxes, and email.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

5

Be on guard! Pickpocket places Watch out for pickpockets in busy  downtown streets, markets and on public transport. A  tried and tested trick is to block the entrances/exits entrances/exits of  public transport and metro entrances (particularly during  rush hour). Don’t be too conspicuous. Think twice about  leaving mobile phones in bags or coats when checking  them at museums, theatres, airports or train stations. Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russia ns all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed Call your bank to cancel your cards (if stolen) then call your embassy who can help you if your passport has been stolen - see moscow. inyourpocket.com for embassy addresses. If you need to claim insurance for a stolen phone etc you will need to get a spravka from a police station explaining that you ukraly ). have been robbed ( ukraly  ). More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by  not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise cauti on, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) (+ 7) 800 220 00 02.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia. If you are staying i n a hotel the hotel will usually regi ster  you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service is complicate d a small fee may apply. Many tourist agencies can also register you  for a price. price. If you are staying staying in another another city city aftervisitingMoscow, your hotel in that city will also register you again for however  many nights you stay with them - it is the law for hotels to de clare  foreigners  foreigners are staying staying withthem.If you don’tget registered registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, ranging   from payinga fine, fine, to missingyour flight. flight. For For more more information nformation see russia.inyourpocket.com.

Taxis Official taxis. The powers that be are now hard at work  trying to better regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for you the passenger. However, as can be true any where in the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be u nscrupulous and over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc try  to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to book  a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. If you need to get a taxi early in the morning, we would advise you to book it the night be fore. If you are looking to pick up a taxi at  the train station, head to the RZD taxi b ooth - their official taxis have slightly higher than usual, but fixed, fares. Alternatively  take your chances with the touts out front. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter  trips around the city centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl. For  taxi companies see page 8. Non-official taxis. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia. Although there are many ‘offi cial’ taxis, most Muscovites still prefer to hail down ordinary c ars. To foreigners, travelling  in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly ad visable to take caution, as there have been stories of passengers being attacked. If you still want to try your luck there is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your  arm - not your thumb. Girls have more luck stopping cars, but  it’s advisable for a male companion to jump from the shadows and hop in too. Always agree to a price in advance (‘ Skolko ?’); ?’); within the centre 200-300Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door in an angry manner and some times they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experienc e. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. Also take note that such ‘taxi’ services are illegal in Moscow - but  that means the driver is b reaking the law, not you.

Toilets If the portable lavatory doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘ Gdye  tualyet?’ (‘Where is the toilet?).

or or

= ladies = gentlemen August - September 2012

7

6

Basics

Basics

Every different country is different in their own way to paraphrase heavily from Tolstoy. Whether its unfamiliar sign verbage, table manners or a communications system that   just seems slightly of f. Given the Soviet imposed isolation i n the not-so-distant past, a rapidly changing economic climate and the simple fact that Russia is the biggest country on the globe, it’s not surprising that it’s a bit quirkier than most. Never   fear. We’ve We’ve got you covered on the essential do’s and don’t’s.

Making a Call

Aeroexpr ess Airpor t Trains

Calling Internationally

The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run betwe en Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsk y Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsk y Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35–40 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpresstickets Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket  counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 100Rbl for  children between five and seven years of age. Children under the age of fi ve travel for free. Business class tickets cost 550Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is 350Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. The first train departs at 05:00, with the last one d epart epart ing at 00.30. Please note that depending on the time of  day, trains run at thirty minute or one hour intervals. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

Phone cards are a a convenient way to make international calls at affordable costs and are available from various phone shops such as the bright yellow Evroset. To phone home you need to dial 8, wait a little, then 10, followed by  the country code, city code and actual telephone number.

Calling within Russia

Alcohol

For calling within Russia or even within Moscow where there are different codes, simply dial 8 (from a landline) or +7 (from a mobile), then wait for a long tone, then the city code, then the number.

While Russia is still the land of vod ka, it’s also a country which loves beer - at any time. Day or night or on the way to work. Be ready to see drunk people anytime, anywhere. Russians pivo ) than anything else. Vodka is cheap drink more beer ( pivo  with literally hundreds of brands to choose from. Russky  Standart Platinum, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. Locally brewed cheap staples for Moscovites are Sibirskaya Korona and Zolotaya Bochka. Sovietskoe Shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink. Take note you cannot buy alcohol in stores between 22:00 and 10:00.

Crossing the road

Russian city codes Archang Archangelsk elsk 8182/8 8182/818 18 Irkutsk  3952 Ka za zan 8432 Moscow 495/499 Murmansk  8152/81522 Leningrad 8 13 Oblast 

Novgor Novgorod od Novosibirsk Pet ro roza vo vo ds ds k Pskov St.Petersburg Vla di vos tok

8162/8 8162/8162 1622 2 3832 8142 8112/81122 812 4232

Foreigner prices

Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn this word переход! It means perekhod in Russian or  underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out  although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are stil l required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you have a document ( propusk  propusk ), which says you work or study  in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.

Customs

Internet Access and Mobile Phones

For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you d o NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying  thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought  get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura ( Kitaigorodsky Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or  an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. Go inside buy a drink and surf the web. In most places you will need to ask for a password ( parol ) to logon. If you don’t  have a laptop or phone that can access the internet, then you will need to head to an internet cafe - of which there are  few in Moscow. One of the most cen tral can be found at the entrance to Okhotny Ryad shopping centre, but note it is only open until 23:00.

Climate Moscow Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat  of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny  month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget  your sunglasses!

Mobile phones.You phones. You can use your mobile your mobile phone from phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. If you call with your mobile to a Russian number, you‘ll need to put in all the numbers, so for Moscow +7 495 followed by the number. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. They range in price starting   from 200Rbl up to 400Rbl depen ding on the package. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card and to put your old number onto a new sim card if  you lose your phone. Note that outside Moscow your Russian sim will also be on roaming.

Post  Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post  system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city.

Central Telegraph Office C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTverskaya. Despite the name, doe s all postal related chores including sending parcels, faxes, and email.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Moscow In Your Pocket

8

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

GettinG around Paveletsky Station D-4 M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. rijskiy.railclient.ru.You’ll You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Yaroslavsky Station D-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaroslavskiy.railclient.ru.To slavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all the way to Vladivostok.

Public Transpor Transpor t  Buses, Trolleybuses and Trams - The bus, trolleybus

Buying Buyin g Train Train Tickets For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want to catch as in each station there is only information about their own trains. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out  at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. It is also possibl e to reserve and buy tickets from the ticket machines in the train stations using  your bank card. Other options are to buy through a ticket or  travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other tha n a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket.

Train Stations Sta tions All of Moscow’s train stations are located next to metro stations, usually on the Koltsevaya (Circle) Line. Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station, B-1 MBelorusskaya, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.T russkiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to B erlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. Kazansky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya,kazanskiy. railclient.ru. Gateway to the Eas t, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station MKievskaya,kievskiy.railclient.ru. kievskiy.railclient.ru.As As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest  and Kishenev. KurskyStation D/E-2 MKurskaya,kursky-vokzal.ruLocal kursky-vokzal.ru Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya, leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.

and tram network functions under the same ticketing system. Buy tickets from the small kiosks near to bus stations  for 25Rbl a singl e tick et. Buy ing you r ticke t onboa rd costs you 28Rbl.

Moscow Metro - Moscow’s metro is fast and efficient  and the second busiest in the world after the Tokyo metro. Cost per ride is 28Rbl (it is usually wise to b uy a few trips in one go). Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through the barriers (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!). Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or  www.mosmetro.ru. www.mosmetro.ru .

Car Rental For those who can’t be without a car, here are some people who‘ll give you one. Avis Russia Car Rental , tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railways station and on 4-y Dobrininsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz B-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hert z.ru. Has 10 other  branches in Moscow including ones at Sheremyetevo, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports. airports. Q Open 09:00 21:00.

Taxis Taxis to the city centre and airports depend on the taxi driver (his/her mood) and the time of day rather than where the station is. Short trips around the city cost around 300 - 500Rbl. Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www.tshanson.ru. Taxity tel. (+7) 495 988 19 88, www.taxity.ru. TK 956 tel. (+7) 495 956 89 56. ww w.taxi956.ru

departu departure re time time - don’t don’t be late, a te, they they won’t won’t wait! wait!

number number of of your your carr carriag iage e (vago (vagon) n)

departure date number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your passport number – check when you buy  the ticket that the seller  copied it correctly  Note all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a di fferent time zone.

Moscow

In Your Pocket

that’ that’s you! you!

arriv arrival al time time

moscow inyourpo cket com

Be on guard! Pickpocket places Watch out for pickpockets in busy  downtown streets, markets and on public transport. A  tried and tested trick is to block the entrances/exits entrances/exits of  public transport and metro entrances (particularly during  rush hour). Don’t be too conspicuous. Think twice about  leaving mobile phones in bags or coats when checking  them at museums, theatres, airports or train stations. Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russia ns all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original. What to do if you are robbed Call your bank to cancel your cards (if stolen) then call your embassy who can help you if your passport has been stolen - see moscow. inyourpocket.com for embassy addresses. If you need to claim insurance for a stolen phone etc you will need to get a spravka from a police station explaining that you ukraly ). have been robbed ( ukraly  ). More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by  not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise cauti on, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) (+ 7) 800 220 00 02.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia. If you are staying i n a hotel the hotel will usually regi ster  you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service is complicate d a small fee may apply. Many tourist agencies can also register you  for a price. price. If you are staying staying in another another city city aftervisitingMoscow, your hotel in that city will also register you again for however  many nights you stay with them - it is the law for hotels to de clare  foreigners  foreigners are staying staying withthem.If you don’tget registered registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, ranging   from payinga fine, fine, to missingyour flight. flight. For For more more information nformation see russia.inyourpocket.com.

Taxis Official taxis. The powers that be are now hard at work  trying to better regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for you the passenger. However, as can be true any where in the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be u nscrupulous and over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc try  to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to book  a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. If you need to get a taxi early in the morning, we would advise you to book it the night be fore. If you are looking to pick up a taxi at  the train station, head to the RZD taxi b ooth - their official taxis have slightly higher than usual, but fixed, fares. Alternatively  take your chances with the touts out front. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter  trips around the city centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl. For  taxi companies see page 8. Non-official taxis. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia. Although there are many ‘offi cial’ taxis, most Muscovites still prefer to hail down ordinary c ars. To foreigners, travelling  in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it is certainly ad visable to take caution, as there have been stories of passengers being attacked. If you still want to try your luck there is a certain protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out your  arm - not your thumb. Girls have more luck stopping cars, but  it’s advisable for a male companion to jump from the shadows and hop in too. Always agree to a price in advance (‘ Skolko ?’); ?’); within the centre 200-300Rbl is normal. If the driver refuses, slam the door in an angry manner and some times they change their mind. Then hop in and enjoy the Lada experienc e. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. Also take note that such ‘taxi’ services are illegal in Moscow - but  that means the driver is b reaking the law, not you.

Toilets If the portable lavatory doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels and cafes uttering the words ‘ Gdye  tualyet?’ (‘Where is the toilet?).

or or

= ladies = gentlemen August - September 2012

7

8

GettinG around Paveletsky Station D-4 M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. rijskiy.railclient.ru.You’ll You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Yaroslavsky Station D-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaroslavskiy.railclient.ru.To slavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all the way to Vladivostok.

Public Transpor Transpor t  Buses, Trolleybuses and Trams - The bus, trolleybus

Buying Buyin g Train Train Tickets For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want to catch as in each station there is only information about their own trains. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out  at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. It is also possibl e to reserve and buy tickets from the ticket machines in the train stations using  your bank card. Other options are to buy through a ticket or  travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other tha n a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket.

Train Stations Sta tions All of Moscow’s train stations are located next to metro stations, usually on the Koltsevaya (Circle) Line. Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station, B-1 MBelorusskaya, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.T russkiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to B erlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. Kazansky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya,kazanskiy. railclient.ru. Gateway to the Eas t, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station MKievskaya,kievskiy.railclient.ru. kievskiy.railclient.ru.As As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest  and Kishenev. KurskyStation D/E-2 MKurskaya,kursky-vokzal.ruLocal kursky-vokzal.ru Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station D-1 MKomsomolskaya, leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.

and tram network functions under the same ticketing system. Buy tickets from the small kiosks near to bus stations  for 25Rbl a singl e tick et. Buy ing you r ticke t onboa rd costs you 28Rbl.

Moscow Metro - Moscow’s metro is fast and efficient  and the second busiest in the world after the Tokyo metro. Cost per ride is 28Rbl (it is usually wise to b uy a few trips in one go). Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through the barriers (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!). Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or  www.mosmetro.ru. www.mosmetro.ru .

Car Rental For those who can’t be without a car, here are some people who‘ll give you one. Avis Russia Car Rental , tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railways station and on 4-y Dobrininsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz B-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hert z.ru. Has 10 other  branches in Moscow including ones at Sheremyetevo, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports. airports. Q Open 09:00 21:00.

Taxis Taxis to the city centre and airports depend on the taxi driver (his/her mood) and the time of day rather than where the station is. Short trips around the city cost around 300 - 500Rbl. Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www.tshanson.ru. Taxity tel. (+7) 495 988 19 88, www.taxity.ru. TK 956 tel. (+7) 495 956 89 56. ww w.taxi956.ru

departu departure re time time - don’t don’t be late, a te, they they won’t won’t wait! wait!

number number of of your your carr carriag iage e (vago (vagon) n)

departure date number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your passport number – check when you buy  the ticket that the seller  copied it correctly  Note all times are always Moscow time - even when you’re in a di fferent time zone.

Moscow

10

In Your Pocket

that’ that’s you! you!

arriv arrival al time time

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

LanGuaGe

the Patriotic War 1812 Useful Phrases

Pocket dictionary: Babye leto  In Russian, this word is translated as Indian Summer, although its literal translation is ‘women’s summer’. The origin of the word is connected to peasant traditions of the end of the harvest when women turned their attention to their house. They began preparing enough flax for their winter’s creativity. Other interpretations of this phrase refer to the ability of  women to warm up men when all else is lost. A similar  expression is babyi dni , ‘women’s days’ which refers to an old superstition where women had the power to bring seasons back and influenc e the weather. Those were the days!

Alphabet

Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да H e ll o Zdrastvui te Здравствуйте G o o d b ye Dasvidani ya До свидания Thank you Spasib o Спасибо Sorry/excuse Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak  Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky  русски Do you speak  Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogi t ye! Помогите! Go away! Ostav te m enya! Оставьте меня! I need some some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I do don't wa wan t Ya ne ne kh kha ch ch u Я не хочу  May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you you have.. have...? .? U vas vas est…? est…? У вас есть...? I do don't kn kn ow ow Ya ne ne zn zn ay ay u Я не знаю How much much is it? Skolko Skolko stoit? stoit? Сколько стоит? It's It's expe expensi nsive! ve! Eta Eta dorog dorogo! o! Это дорого! M or ore/l es es s Ye sh sh o/ o/m en en sh sh e Еще/меньше La arr ge ge / /s s ma ma l B ol ol sh sh oy oy / /m m al al en en k y   Большой/  маленкий G oo oo d/ d/b ad ad K ho horosh o/ o/pl ok ok ho ho Хорошо/плохо I t hur ts! Boln o! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaf tra Завтра Toilets Tual et   Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста How do you say  Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? N o prob le m B ez ez pro bl bl em em Без проблем O f co course Koneshno Конечно

Language schools Liden and Denz Language Centre В-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of   facili ties an d ethos, t his is a mod ern lan guage sch ool wit h up-to-date up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that  can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or  learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of  great social activities outside of lesson, although individual classes are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Ruslingua Language Center C-4, 1-y Spasonalivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th flo or), MPolyanka,

Napoleon’s ultimately disastrous invasion of the Russian Empire in 1812 is one of the most famous military campaigns in modern histor y. On 24 June 1812, Napoleon and his Grand Armee crossed the river Neiman in Western Russia and began marching towards Moscow with some 690,000 m en. By the time the Armee had retreated from Russia less than six months later only tens of thousands of soldiers remained. Three quarters of Moscow lay in smoldering ruins and hundreds of thousands of Russians had been killed, but  Napoleon and his great Empire had been forced to retreat. It  was a defeat that ultimately proved that Europe’s previously  undefeated ‘military genius’ could indeed be crushed, albeit  at a huge cost. By Louise Whitworth

The Invasion By 1812 most of mainland Europe was under the control of Napoleon and his French Empire, who had swept across Europe with the help of a vast army and outstanding military  strategies. Next on the French Emperor’s list was its fragile ally Russia, which was doing little to honour the flimsy  peace agreements that Napoleon had imposed on it. Bent  on teaching the Russians a lesson, Napoleon mustered the  full stren gth of his pa n-Europe an Grand A rmee, th e largest  that had ever been seen in Europe since Roman times, and began marching towards the Russian Empire. Although estimates vary, the Russian military was by all accounts vastly inferior in size to that of Napoleon’s invading  army. For Napoleon the Russian invasion resembled an easy  victory and he anticipated that Russia would capitulate within a matter of weeks. What Napoleon hadn’t expected was the resolve of Tsar Alexander I to fight to the last and the willingness of the Russian people to defend the nation at all costs. Napoleon’s invasion was to be fought along three fronts aimed at “Russia’s feet” (Kiev), the “Russian hear t” (Moscow) and “Russia’s head” (the capital St. Petersburg). As the Grand Armee marched determinedly across Western Russia - crushing the Russians in a terrible siege at Smolensk in the process - the Russian generals quickly recognised that   furthe r battles aga inst Napole on’s vast war machine woul d decimate the Russian army. Straight confrontation appeared an equally unwise strategy so the Russians began to retreat  across the country, fighting few major battles and relying on Cossack raids of French positions to damage French morale and destroy their supplies. The Russian retreat turned out to be a surprisingly excellent  tactic, stretching Napoleon’s Napoleon’s supply lines further and further  and forcing his men over rough terrain. As they withdrew, the Russians also destroye d crops and other food stores in what  is now known as a ‘scorched earth’ strategy, thus denying  the French army and its vast cavalry essential supplies. As Napoleon had planned for a swift victory, the further the Russians retreated the more he became entrenched in a long war that he had not logistically prepared for. Persistent  hunger and desertion and growing distances from essential supply lines meant that by September Napoleon’s army  would be halved by the conditions alone.

tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. www.ruslingua.com.This This excellent language school has individual and group courses for  expats, visitors and revision courses for university students and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher  to the local market to practice your language in real life situations. They also offer a special one day course on how to talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg is saved By July, fears were spreading in St. Petersburg that an invasion of the city was imminent and the state’s most  valuable treasures from the Hermitage and the Alexander  Nevsky Lavra were transported east to Kazan for safe keeping, soon to be followed by the royal family. Tsar  Alexander I felt that strong action was needed to restore his men’s resolve and appointed veteran military leader and celebrated commander Mikhail Kutuzov to lead all the ground and naval forces based in St. Petersburg. As the excitement  and anticipation of imminent battle in St. Petersburg grew, Kutuzov’s troops swelled with thousands of new recruits and the coffers filled with donations from anxious citizens. The Russian army won its first victory of the campaign at the battle of Potolsk against the north-bound flank of Napoleon’s army, who were travelling through modern day Belarus on their way to St. Petersburg. Force d by the defeat in Potolsk to reconsider plans to take the capital St. Petersburg, Napoleon instead focused his energies on capturin g Moscow. Napoleon believed that if the French could occupy the ancient seat of  the Tsars, Russia would be forced to surrender. Meanwhile in St. Petersburg Tsar Alexander I was studying  closely the Russian retreat tactics. It seemed clear that the leader of the Russian army, Field Marshall Barclay de Tolly, Tolly, would continue the retreat all the way to Moscow and that  the city would then be taken by Napoleon. The Tsar believed that a battle would eventually have to be fought and so he promoted Kutuzov to lead the army into battle. Kutuzov, like Barclay de Tolly, knew that the Russian army was far  outnumbered by the French. However, he also knew that  politically it would be impossible for the retreat to continue the Russian people expected a battle and the Tsar demanded a stand. Sooner rather than later, the two armies had to meet.

August - September 2012

11

10

LanGuaGe

the Patriotic War 1812 Useful Phrases

Pocket dictionary: Babye leto  In Russian, this word is translated as Indian Summer, although its literal translation is ‘women’s summer’. The origin of the word is connected to peasant traditions of the end of the harvest when women turned their attention to their house. They began preparing enough flax for their winter’s creativity. Other interpretations of this phrase refer to the ability of  women to warm up men when all else is lost. A similar  expression is babyi dni , ‘women’s days’ which refers to an old superstition where women had the power to bring seasons back and influenc e the weather. Those were the days!

Alphabet

Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да H e ll o Zdrastvui te Здравствуйте G o o d b ye Dasvidani ya До свидания Thank you Spasib o Спасибо Sorry/excuse Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю I don't speak  Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю поRussian pa-russky  русски Do you speak  Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите поEnglish? anglisky? английски? Help! Pomogi t ye! Помогите! Go away! Ostav te m enya! Оставьте меня! I need some some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна pomoshch помошь I do don't wa wan t Ya ne ne kh kha ch ch u Я не хочу  May I? Mozhno? Можно? Do you you have.. have...? .? U vas vas est…? est…? У вас есть...? I do don't kn kn ow ow Ya ne ne zn zn ay ay u Я не знаю How much much is it? Skolko Skolko stoit? stoit? Сколько стоит? It's It's expe expensi nsive! ve! Eta Eta dorog dorogo! o! Это дорого! M or ore/l es es s Ye sh sh o/ o/m en en sh sh e Еще/меньше La arr ge ge / /s s ma ma l B ol ol sh sh oy oy / /m m al al en en k y   Большой/  маленкий G oo oo d/ d/b ad ad K ho horosh o/ o/pl ok ok ho ho Хорошо/плохо I t hur ts! Boln o! Больно! Today Sevodnya Сегодня Tomorrow Zaf tra Завтра Toilets Tual et   Туалет Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, pazhalusta пожалуйста How do you say  Kak skazat eto Как сказать это that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? N o prob le m B ez ez pro bl bl em em Без проблем O f co course Koneshno Конечно

Language schools Liden and Denz Language Centre В-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of   facili ties an d ethos, t his is a mod ern lan guage sch ool wit h up-to-date up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that  can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or  learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of  great social activities outside of lesson, although individual classes are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Ruslingua Language Center C-4, 1-y Spasonalivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th flo or), MPolyanka,

Napoleon’s ultimately disastrous invasion of the Russian Empire in 1812 is one of the most famous military campaigns in modern histor y. On 24 June 1812, Napoleon and his Grand Armee crossed the river Neiman in Western Russia and began marching towards Moscow with some 690,000 m en. By the time the Armee had retreated from Russia less than six months later only tens of thousands of soldiers remained. Three quarters of Moscow lay in smoldering ruins and hundreds of thousands of Russians had been killed, but  Napoleon and his great Empire had been forced to retreat. It  was a defeat that ultimately proved that Europe’s previously  undefeated ‘military genius’ could indeed be crushed, albeit  at a huge cost. By Louise Whitworth

The Invasion By 1812 most of mainland Europe was under the control of Napoleon and his French Empire, who had swept across Europe with the help of a vast army and outstanding military  strategies. Next on the French Emperor’s list was its fragile ally Russia, which was doing little to honour the flimsy  peace agreements that Napoleon had imposed on it. Bent  on teaching the Russians a lesson, Napoleon mustered the  full stren gth of his pa n-Europe an Grand A rmee, th e largest  that had ever been seen in Europe since Roman times, and began marching towards the Russian Empire. Although estimates vary, the Russian military was by all accounts vastly inferior in size to that of Napoleon’s invading  army. For Napoleon the Russian invasion resembled an easy  victory and he anticipated that Russia would capitulate within a matter of weeks. What Napoleon hadn’t expected was the resolve of Tsar Alexander I to fight to the last and the willingness of the Russian people to defend the nation at all costs. Napoleon’s invasion was to be fought along three fronts aimed at “Russia’s feet” (Kiev), the “Russian hear t” (Moscow) and “Russia’s head” (the capital St. Petersburg). As the Grand Armee marched determinedly across Western Russia - crushing the Russians in a terrible siege at Smolensk in the process - the Russian generals quickly recognised that   furthe r battles aga inst Napole on’s vast war machine woul d decimate the Russian army. Straight confrontation appeared an equally unwise strategy so the Russians began to retreat  across the country, fighting few major battles and relying on Cossack raids of French positions to damage French morale and destroy their supplies. The Russian retreat turned out to be a surprisingly excellent  tactic, stretching Napoleon’s Napoleon’s supply lines further and further  and forcing his men over rough terrain. As they withdrew, the Russians also destroye d crops and other food stores in what  is now known as a ‘scorched earth’ strategy, thus denying  the French army and its vast cavalry essential supplies. As Napoleon had planned for a swift victory, the further the Russians retreated the more he became entrenched in a long war that he had not logistically prepared for. Persistent  hunger and desertion and growing distances from essential supply lines meant that by September Napoleon’s army  would be halved by the conditions alone.

tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. www.ruslingua.com.This This excellent language school has individual and group courses for  expats, visitors and revision courses for university students and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher  to the local market to practice your language in real life situations. They also offer a special one day course on how to talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Moscow In Your Pocket

12

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

the Patriotic War 1812 The Fire of Moscow

By September Napoleon’s troops were within days of  Moscow. Field Marshall Kutuzov had mustered as much fire power as he could and was preparing to face Napoleon’s men in battle. On the dawn of 07 September in the fields of Borodino - a quiet cluster of small villages and farms 200kms from Moscow - 250,000 men went to war in what  would be the largest and bloodiest single day of battle in all the Napoleonic Wars, and indeed one o f the most harrowing  battles in human history.

Having won the Battle of Borodino, Napoleon entered Moscow on 14 September expecting a prompt surrender by  Tsar Alexander I. Anticipating that members of the Russian command would meet him and hand over a truce and the keys to the city, Napoleon set up camp and waited on the hills of  Poklonnaya Gora (where the Borodino panorama museum and Victory Park is now located). No one cam e. Reports soon arrived from Napoleon’s aides that the city was deser ted and that no officials could be found. More than two thirds of the population had fled Moscow, burning or robbing food stores on their way out. Furthermore numerous c riminal gangs had been released from local prisons to terrorise the incoming  troops. Of the remaining population, most were foreign merchants, French expats, servants, and others who were unable or unwilling to leave. Disappointed Disappointed to find that the Russians would not surrender  and with morale and provisions running at an all time low, the Grand Armee began widespread looting of the city in search of provisions and valuables to take away with them. Before leaving Moscow and ordering the evacuation of its citizens, the Governor of Moscow Count Fyodor Rostopchin had made arrangements that if the French army entered Moscow fires would be started in various districts to destroy  any remaining resources and force the French back out. Small blazes were already spotted during the first day of  French occupation, but were largely blamed on careless French troops.

Of more than 250,000 men on the field that day, between 70,000 and 100,000 were killed. From the crack of dawn the fields were filled with cannon smoke, the deafening noise of thousands of muskets and the thunder of horse hooves. Cavalry regiments charged across the low hills and men armed with bayonets surged forward to meet their enemy. As one observer noted, “to those present, even those who had been in battle b efore, it seemed as though all hell had been let loose.» During the chaos of the battle both Kutuzov and Napoleon were presented with opportunities to commit the last of their  best men to the battle and force a victory, but both refused Napoleon believi ng he had all but won and Kutuzov fearing his weakened army would not be able to recover from yet more causalities. The various defensive positions of both armies changed hands numerous times and as the day drew on the field was covered in dead men and horses, sometimes lying two or three deep and in such a position that it actually  made it difficult for the surviving men to advance. Scores more were wounded and what little area was not covered with the dead and bloody was scattered with the debris of  the battle - helmets, lances, cannonballs, drums and flags. After seemingly endless hours of bitter carnage Napoleon took to the battlefield and Kutuzov was forced to retreat  south with the remainder of the Russian army, leaving  Napoleon free to take Moscow. Napoleon’s victory was a Pyrrhic one however, however, and Kutuzov is considered to have dealt Napoleon the d ecisive blow by  retreating to replenish his troops and gather more supplies, which Napoleon would have little luck finding in Moscow. As Bonaparte wrote many years later during his exile, o f the 50 battles of his life Borodino was where «the greatest valour  was displayed and the least success gained.»

Monuments to 1812 There are numerous monuments to the Russian victory  over Napoleon in 1812 scattered across the city including; a triumphal arch, the Borodino panorama museum (where you can see a huge panoramic painting of the battlefield) and of course the beautiful Cathedral of  Christ the Saviour which you can see on our cover. For  more information on Napoleonic sightseeing in Moscow turn to page 47.

Moscow In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg is saved By July, fears were spreading in St. Petersburg that an invasion of the city was imminent and the state’s most  valuable treasures from the Hermitage and the Alexander  Nevsky Lavra were transported east to Kazan for safe keeping, soon to be followed by the royal family. Tsar  Alexander I felt that strong action was needed to restore his men’s resolve and appointed veteran military leader and celebrated commander Mikhail Kutuzov to lead all the ground and naval forces based in St. Petersburg. As the excitement  and anticipation of imminent battle in St. Petersburg grew, Kutuzov’s troops swelled with thousands of new recruits and the coffers filled with donations from anxious citizens. The Russian army won its first victory of the campaign at the battle of Potolsk against the north-bound flank of Napoleon’s army, who were travelling through modern day Belarus on their way to St. Petersburg. Force d by the defeat in Potolsk to reconsider plans to take the capital St. Petersburg, Napoleon instead focused his energies on capturin g Moscow. Napoleon believed that if the French could occupy the ancient seat of  the Tsars, Russia would be forced to surrender. Meanwhile in St. Petersburg Tsar Alexander I was studying  closely the Russian retreat tactics. It seemed clear that the leader of the Russian army, Field Marshall Barclay de Tolly, Tolly, would continue the retreat all the way to Moscow and that  the city would then be taken by Napoleon. The Tsar believed that a battle would eventually have to be fought and so he promoted Kutuzov to lead the army into battle. Kutuzov, like Barclay de Tolly, knew that the Russian army was far  outnumbered by the French. However, he also knew that  politically it would be impossible for the retreat to continue the Russian people expected a battle and the Tsar demanded a stand. Sooner rather than later, the two armies had to meet.

August - September 2012

the Patriotic War 1812

The Battle of Borodino

On 15 September Napoleon arrived at the Kremlin and the very same day massive fires began in the Kitay Gorod area  just to its east. Fa nned by h igh winds and wooden housi ng, the inferno soon threatened the Kremlin itself and more  fires were b eing spotte d in other parts of th e city. Mos cow was soon ablaze in a terrifying firestorm. With fire raging  across the city, on 16 September Napoleon was forced to leave the Kremlin for the safety of the Petrovsky Palace, an imperial residence on the road to St. Petersburg, while his troops gave up the fight against the fire and instead took to pillaging whatever treasures remained. By 18 September the fire had finally been brought under  control and Napoleon returned to the Kremlin at the centre of a city of ashes - still awaiting the Tsar’s final surrender. Yet the Tsar was refusing to give up, while Kutuzov was based south of the city, out of reach of the French and busy  mustering new troops and bolstering his army. To make matters worse, the great fire had destroyed yet more o f the French army’s rapidly dwindling supplies, and Napoleon’s men were now beginning to starve to death. Finally after  occupying Moscow for just five weeks the situation reached critical levels and Napoleon was left with no choice bu t to begin a long retreat west.

moscow inyourpo cket com

11

Retreat and Defeat  The French army began to file out of Moscow on 18 October  in what was to be a thoroughly devastating jou rney back west   from which i t would nev er fully recover. Dur ing the g ruellin g  return journey many of the remaining soldiers and some 200,000 horses died either from starvation, cold, injury or  disease. With no horses left, the French had to abandon their  wagons and canons, further weakening their fighting power. power. The replenished Russian army then set out on the war path and pushed Napoleon’s men to retreat along the same roads they had arrived, forcing them through the empty scorched earth left by the Russians during the summer months. War-weary, starved, disease-ridden and plagued by constant  raids from Russian partisans and brigades of Cossacks, tens of thousands of Napoleon’s soldiers began to desert. With few able fighting men left and mass misery in French ranks, it was easy for the Russians to inflict further battle defeats on the Grand Armee. In early November Napoleon abandoned his troops and fled to Paris to pick up the pieces, leaving Joachim Murat as Grand Marshall. Murat, facing his own troubles at home, soon deserted. Napoleon’s stepson was then put in charge of guiding the army back to safety  in the west. By the time they finally made it out of Russian territory and arrived in Poland in December 1812 there were little more than 100,000 starved and frost-bitten men left,  from an ar my th at ha d le ft j ust a few m onths earlier with seven times that number.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow after 1812

With much of Moscow in ruins following the great fire, the Russians were given the unique opportunity to completely  replan the city from scratch, providing local architects with a wealth of opportunities. However, However, state funds and resources were still low following the war effort and the real reconstruction of the city didn’t begin in earnest until 1817. Moscow’s fashionable new look was defined by neo-classical buildings, which were ordered to be painted in muted pastel shades and adorned with classical facades. Grand projects such as the rebuilding of the Bolshoi theatre and Moscow University were und ertaken first, as was the restoration work  inside the Kremlin and the creation of the Garden Ring road (which was later completely reconstructed by Stalin). As there was still a lack of masonry, numerous wooden bui ldings were also built by well-off m erchants keen to start afresh, and were given a neo-classical look with carved wooden facades. A   few of these buildings can still be admired in the area around Bolshaya Ordnyka ulitsa. And of c ourse great emphasis was paid on constructing buildings and monuments that would testify to Russia’s great victory over Napoleon. The cultural legacy of the war resounded across Russia  for de cades in m usic and words. Lermontov was the first  literary giant to recreate scenes from the battle in his poem Borodino, which he published in 1837 in honour of the 25th anniversar y of the battle. In 1865 Tolstoy’s epic masterpiece War and Peace was published with extensive philosophising  on the nature of warfare and was later made into films by  various Russian and foreign directors. The war has also been immortalised by Russia’s most famous composers - in 1880 Tchaikovsky Tchaikovsky penned his iconic 1812 overture and in 1941 Prokofiev wrote wrote the opera War and Peace, based on Tolstoy’s novel.

August - September 2012

13

12

the Patriotic War 1812 The Battle of Borodino

The Fire of Moscow

By September Napoleon’s troops were within days of  Moscow. Field Marshall Kutuzov had mustered as much fire power as he could and was preparing to face Napoleon’s men in battle. On the dawn of 07 September in the fields of Borodino - a quiet cluster of small villages and farms 200kms from Moscow - 250,000 men went to war in what  would be the largest and bloodiest single day of battle in all the Napoleonic Wars, and indeed one o f the most harrowing  battles in human history.

Having won the Battle of Borodino, Napoleon entered Moscow on 14 September expecting a prompt surrender by  Tsar Alexander I. Anticipating that members of the Russian command would meet him and hand over a truce and the keys to the city, Napoleon set up camp and waited on the hills of  Poklonnaya Gora (where the Borodino panorama museum and Victory Park is now located). No one cam e. Reports soon arrived from Napoleon’s aides that the city was deser ted and that no officials could be found. More than two thirds of the population had fled Moscow, burning or robbing food stores on their way out. Furthermore numerous c riminal gangs had been released from local prisons to terrorise the incoming  troops. Of the remaining population, most were foreign merchants, French expats, servants, and others who were unable or unwilling to leave. Disappointed Disappointed to find that the Russians would not surrender  and with morale and provisions running at an all time low, the Grand Armee began widespread looting of the city in search of provisions and valuables to take away with them. Before leaving Moscow and ordering the evacuation of its citizens, the Governor of Moscow Count Fyodor Rostopchin had made arrangements that if the French army entered Moscow fires would be started in various districts to destroy  any remaining resources and force the French back out. Small blazes were already spotted during the first day of  French occupation, but were largely blamed on careless French troops.

Of more than 250,000 men on the field that day, between 70,000 and 100,000 were killed. From the crack of dawn the fields were filled with cannon smoke, the deafening noise of thousands of muskets and the thunder of horse hooves. Cavalry regiments charged across the low hills and men armed with bayonets surged forward to meet their enemy. As one observer noted, “to those present, even those who had been in battle b efore, it seemed as though all hell had been let loose.» During the chaos of the battle both Kutuzov and Napoleon were presented with opportunities to commit the last of their  best men to the battle and force a victory, but both refused Napoleon believi ng he had all but won and Kutuzov fearing his weakened army would not be able to recover from yet more causalities. The various defensive positions of both armies changed hands numerous times and as the day drew on the field was covered in dead men and horses, sometimes lying two or three deep and in such a position that it actually  made it difficult for the surviving men to advance. Scores more were wounded and what little area was not covered with the dead and bloody was scattered with the debris of  the battle - helmets, lances, cannonballs, drums and flags. After seemingly endless hours of bitter carnage Napoleon took to the battlefield and Kutuzov was forced to retreat  south with the remainder of the Russian army, leaving  Napoleon free to take Moscow. Napoleon’s victory was a Pyrrhic one however, however, and Kutuzov is considered to have dealt Napoleon the d ecisive blow by  retreating to replenish his troops and gather more supplies, which Napoleon would have little luck finding in Moscow. As Bonaparte wrote many years later during his exile, o f the 50 battles of his life Borodino was where «the greatest valour  was displayed and the least success gained.»

Monuments to 1812 There are numerous monuments to the Russian victory  over Napoleon in 1812 scattered across the city including; a triumphal arch, the Borodino panorama museum (where you can see a huge panoramic painting of the battlefield) and of course the beautiful Cathedral of  Christ the Saviour which you can see on our cover. For  more information on Napoleonic sightseeing in Moscow turn to page 47.

On 15 September Napoleon arrived at the Kremlin and the very same day massive fires began in the Kitay Gorod area  just to its east. Fa nned by h igh winds and wooden housi ng, the inferno soon threatened the Kremlin itself and more  fires were b eing spotte d in other parts of th e city. Mos cow was soon ablaze in a terrifying firestorm. With fire raging  across the city, on 16 September Napoleon was forced to leave the Kremlin for the safety of the Petrovsky Palace, an imperial residence on the road to St. Petersburg, while his troops gave up the fight against the fire and instead took to pillaging whatever treasures remained. By 18 September the fire had finally been brought under  control and Napoleon returned to the Kremlin at the centre of a city of ashes - still awaiting the Tsar’s final surrender. Yet the Tsar was refusing to give up, while Kutuzov was based south of the city, out of reach of the French and busy  mustering new troops and bolstering his army. To make matters worse, the great fire had destroyed yet more o f the French army’s rapidly dwindling supplies, and Napoleon’s men were now beginning to starve to death. Finally after  occupying Moscow for just five weeks the situation reached critical levels and Napoleon was left with no choice bu t to begin a long retreat west.

Moscow In Your Pocket

14

the Patriotic War 1812

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Retreat and Defeat  The French army began to file out of Moscow on 18 October  in what was to be a thoroughly devastating jou rney back west   from which i t would nev er fully recover. Dur ing the g ruellin g  return journey many of the remaining soldiers and some 200,000 horses died either from starvation, cold, injury or  disease. With no horses left, the French had to abandon their  wagons and canons, further weakening their fighting power. power. The replenished Russian army then set out on the war path and pushed Napoleon’s men to retreat along the same roads they had arrived, forcing them through the empty scorched earth left by the Russians during the summer months. War-weary, starved, disease-ridden and plagued by constant  raids from Russian partisans and brigades of Cossacks, tens of thousands of Napoleon’s soldiers began to desert. With few able fighting men left and mass misery in French ranks, it was easy for the Russians to inflict further battle defeats on the Grand Armee. In early November Napoleon abandoned his troops and fled to Paris to pick up the pieces, leaving Joachim Murat as Grand Marshall. Murat, facing his own troubles at home, soon deserted. Napoleon’s stepson was then put in charge of guiding the army back to safety  in the west. By the time they finally made it out of Russian territory and arrived in Poland in December 1812 there were little more than 100,000 starved and frost-bitten men left,  from an ar my th at ha d le ft j ust a few m onths earlier with seven times that number.

While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running  of high heeled road races, honey festivals and air-guitar  competitions and other curious events.

Concert Halls International House of Music - Chamber Hall (IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) D/E-4, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, ww w.mmdm.ru.

Moscow after 1812

With much of Moscow in ruins following the great fire, the Russians were given the unique opportunity to completely  replan the city from scratch, providing local architects with a wealth of opportunities. However, However, state funds and resources were still low following the war effort and the real reconstruction of the city didn’t begin in earnest until 1817. Moscow’s fashionable new look was defined by neo-classical buildings, which were ordered to be painted in muted pastel shades and adorned with classical facades. Grand projects such as the rebuilding of the Bolshoi theatre and Moscow University were und ertaken first, as was the restoration work  inside the Kremlin and the creation of the Garden Ring road (which was later completely reconstructed by Stalin). As there was still a lack of masonry, numerous wooden bui ldings were also built by well-off m erchants keen to start afresh, and were given a neo-classical look with carved wooden facades. A   few of these buildings can still be admired in the area around Bolshaya Ordnyka ulitsa. And of c ourse great emphasis was paid on constructing buildings and monuments that would testify to Russia’s great victory over Napoleon. The cultural legacy of the war resounded across Russia  for de cades in m usic and words. Lermontov was the first  literary giant to recreate scenes from the battle in his poem Borodino, which he published in 1837 in honour of the 25th anniversar y of the battle. In 1865 Tolstoy’s epic masterpiece War and Peace was published with extensive philosophising  on the nature of warfare and was later made into films by  various Russian and foreign directors. The war has also been immortalised by Russia’s most famous composers - in 1880 Tchaikovsky Tchaikovsky penned his iconic 1812 overture and in 1941 Prokofiev wrote wrote the opera War and Peace, based on Tolstoy’s novel.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

culture cul ture & events

August - September 2012

Culture & events

August events

10.08 Friday 21:00 Vasya Oblomov 

05.08 Sunday 20:00 Chaka Khan 

A-1, 16 Tons, ul. Presnensky val 6, bldg.1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, w ww.16tons.ru. Finding  his success through a viral video, Vasya Oblomov is perhaps the kind of character who you could expect to be a one-hit  wonder. However his outspoken songs which speak of cops and bureaucrats, hospital queues and social network ‘friends’ have made him a bit of a hero amongst Russia’s youth and some consider him a kind of Russian Mike Skinner. Witty lyrics (in Russian only), stage presen ce and a talent for lo-fi rapping  over catchy acoustic guitar riffs mean he is a local favourite. Q Tickets 800Rbl.

C-1, SK Olimpiysky (Zal Sever) Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 812 258 00 00, www.chakakhan. com. Sometimes referred to as the ‘Queen of Funk’, good old Chaka and her incredible hair is back for a greatest hits tour. Best known for her early 1980s girl power disco hits such as I’m Every Woman and Ain’t Nobody Chaka has also guested on songs by many mo dern era fans of her work such as Beverly Knight and Mary J Blige and recently recorded a new song dedicated to Floridian teenager Trayvon Martin. Q Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl.

Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall (PGH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Russian National Show Through 15.09 Saturday 19:30 Russian National Dance Show  Kostroma  Concert Hall of Cosmos Hotel, Pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, nationalrussianshow.ru. The show to see if you are looking for Russian  folklore, tr aditional music, dancing, fabulous costumes and a big bite of history. Themed around Russia’s long  and glorious histor y, the Kostroma troupe show off all the key events of the past millennium in lively song and dance. Starting in medieval Rus, charging on through the Tsars, then across the golden age of the 18th and 19th Century  and onwards towards the communist revolution and the Soviet era - the whole of Russia’s history is enjoyably  choreographed in a colourful extravaganza. More than 50 dancers wear over 300 costumes during the course of  this exciting show filled with romance, come dy, high drama and stunning choreography and a crobatics. This show, as they say themselves, is much more than matrioshkas. Q Tickets 600 - 1,500Rbl.

Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Circus in Gorky Park

Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH) B-1, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495

School’s out for the summer and for all the kids - and  for that mat ter the gro wn-ups who are still the mselves a little bit of a child at heart - Gorky Park (metro Park  Kultury) will be enjoying two weekends of street theatre and circus fun this August.

232 53 53, www.meloman.ru.

Theatres Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, ww w.bolshoi.ru.

Helikon Opera (HO) B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT) C-1, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru.

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly.ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK

07.08 Tuesday 20:00 Madonna  C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, www.madonna.com. The material girl is back again in Russia as part of what promises to be her largest tour  yet supporting her latest album MDNA. The dramatic and energetic show production is colossal in scale and is one of the most ambitious shows seen in a pop concert, and as many critics have already remarked it’s pretty deep and dark  in parts too. With numerous dancers, acrobats and even a marching band sharing the stage with the Queen of Pop, the MDNA tour promises to be a huge colourful extravaganza worth the high ticket price. Q Tickets 3,000 - 10,000, VIP  tickets 10,000 - 70,000.

Stanislavsky Stanislavs ky Music Theatre (SMT) C-1, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, ww w.stanislavskymusic.r w.stanislavskymusic.ru. u.

18.08 Saturday Bright People 

Venues Bolshoi Theatre Helikon Opera Internat Internationa ionall House of of Music Chambe Chamberr Hall International International House House of Music Svetlanov Svetlanov Hall Internat Internationa ionall House House of of Music Music Theatre Theatre Hall Hall Kolob ov Novaya Opera Mal y Theatre Moscow Ph Philarmoni c Chamb e err Ha Hall Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall M os os co co w P hi hi lh lh ar ar mo mo ni ni c Tc Tc ha ha ik ov ov sk sk y H al al l Stanislavsky Music Theatre

Moscow In Your Pocket

12.08 Sunday Once in the park  For this special street theatre and circus festival Gorky  Park will be turned into a topsy-turvy topsy-turvy wonderland worthy  of Carroll’s Alice herself with chairs in the trees, bikes on lampposts, cardboard houses, cars made from grass and colourful lanterns every where. Kids and grown-ups can get up to all kinds of fun hanging from chandeliers or  having pillow fights and clowns, live statues, gymnasts and musicians will be there to guide everyone along the way. Top performers from across Russia will be taking  part in the festival alongside numerous foreign artists and the headline event of the whole spectacle will be top theatrical performers Malabar from France who will be staging their show Les Aquareves.

A creative carnival atmosphe re will be created in the park  at this special festival combining 3-D art, circus wizzadry, acrobatics, street theatre, music an d more. A total of 500 different artists will be performing all kind of wonderful acts across the park including acrobats, actors, dancers, live statues, street theatre enthusiasts and musicians  from as far af ield as Ar gentina a nd Australi a. There will of course also be craft workshops where you can put  your idle hands to good use and dif ferent stalls, classes and installations courtesy of local design institutes such as Winzavod, Flacon and the British School of Design, the hands-on Experimentarium museum and the quirky  nation of Cardboardia who aim to build a new cardboard colony in the park.

BT HO IHMC  IHMS IHMT KNOT MT P CH PGH PSH P TH TH SMT

moscow inyourpo cket com

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13

Cinemas 35mm D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasniye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 780 9145, www.kino35mm.ru. Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language films, art house films and festivals. festivals. Q Tickets 250-450Rbl.

5 Zvezd na Novokuznetskoy D-3, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 16, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 510 28 88, www.5zvezd.ru. Popular cinema showing  a wide range of Hollywood blockbusters more often than not in their original language, although make sure you ask about subtitles before you buy your tickets as some films are dubbed. Also at ul. Bakhrushina 25, metro Paveletskaya. Q Tickets 120-350Rbl. Dome Cinema C-1, Renaissance Hotel, Olympisky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 98 73, www.domecinema.ru. Screening films in English without dubbing them into Russian is wonderful and the theatre itself is rarely crowded and really comfortable. They tend towards the latest Hollywood films, with a few off-beat indie films too. Pioner Kutuzovsky pr. 21, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 52 40, www.pioner-cinema.ru. A fashionably restored 1950s cinema showing new foreign and Russian films in original language with Russian subtitles. Also frequently hosts film festivals and retrospectives.

August - September 2012

15

culture cul ture & events

14

While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running  of high heeled road races, honey festivals and air-guitar  competitions and other curious events.

Concert Halls International House of Music - Chamber Hall (IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) D/E-4, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, ww w.mmdm.ru.

Culture & events

August events

10.08 Friday 21:00 Vasya Oblomov 

05.08 Sunday 20:00 Chaka Khan 

A-1, 16 Tons, ul. Presnensky val 6, bldg.1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, w ww.16tons.ru. Finding  his success through a viral video, Vasya Oblomov is perhaps the kind of character who you could expect to be a one-hit  wonder. However his outspoken songs which speak of cops and bureaucrats, hospital queues and social network ‘friends’ have made him a bit of a hero amongst Russia’s youth and some consider him a kind of Russian Mike Skinner. Witty lyrics (in Russian only), stage presen ce and a talent for lo-fi rapping  over catchy acoustic guitar riffs mean he is a local favourite. Q Tickets 800Rbl.

C-1, SK Olimpiysky (Zal Sever) Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 812 258 00 00, www.chakakhan. com. Sometimes referred to as the ‘Queen of Funk’, good old Chaka and her incredible hair is back for a greatest hits tour. Best known for her early 1980s girl power disco hits such as I’m Every Woman and Ain’t Nobody Chaka has also guested on songs by many mo dern era fans of her work such as Beverly Knight and Mary J Blige and recently recorded a new song dedicated to Floridian teenager Trayvon Martin. Q Tickets 1,500 - 10,000Rbl.

Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall (PGH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

15

Russian National Show Through 15.09 Saturday 19:30 Russian National Dance Show  Kostroma  Concert Hall of Cosmos Hotel, Pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, nationalrussianshow.ru. The show to see if you are looking for Russian  folklore, tr aditional music, dancing, fabulous costumes and a big bite of history. Themed around Russia’s long  and glorious histor y, the Kostroma troupe show off all the key events of the past millennium in lively song and dance. Starting in medieval Rus, charging on through the Tsars, then across the golden age of the 18th and 19th Century  and onwards towards the communist revolution and the Soviet era - the whole of Russia’s history is enjoyably  choreographed in a colourful extravaganza. More than 50 dancers wear over 300 costumes during the course of  this exciting show filled with romance, come dy, high drama and stunning choreography and a crobatics. This show, as they say themselves, is much more than matrioshkas. Q Tickets 600 - 1,500Rbl.

Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-2, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Circus in Gorky Park

Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH) B-1, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495

School’s out for the summer and for all the kids - and  for that mat ter the gro wn-ups who are still the mselves a little bit of a child at heart - Gorky Park (metro Park  Kultury) will be enjoying two weekends of street theatre and circus fun this August.

232 53 53, www.meloman.ru.

Theatres Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, ww w.bolshoi.ru.

Helikon Opera (HO) B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT) C-1, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru.

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly.ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK

07.08 Tuesday 20:00 Madonna  C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, www.madonna.com. The material girl is back again in Russia as part of what promises to be her largest tour  yet supporting her latest album MDNA. The dramatic and energetic show production is colossal in scale and is one of the most ambitious shows seen in a pop concert, and as many critics have already remarked it’s pretty deep and dark  in parts too. With numerous dancers, acrobats and even a marching band sharing the stage with the Queen of Pop, the MDNA tour promises to be a huge colourful extravaganza worth the high ticket price. Q Tickets 3,000 - 10,000, VIP  tickets 10,000 - 70,000.

Stanislavsky Stanislavs ky Music Theatre (SMT) C-1, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, ww w.stanislavskymusic.r w.stanislavskymusic.ru. u.

For this special street theatre and circus festival Gorky  Park will be turned into a topsy-turvy topsy-turvy wonderland worthy  of Carroll’s Alice herself with chairs in the trees, bikes on lampposts, cardboard houses, cars made from grass and colourful lanterns every where. Kids and grown-ups can get up to all kinds of fun hanging from chandeliers or  having pillow fights and clowns, live statues, gymnasts and musicians will be there to guide everyone along the way. Top performers from across Russia will be taking  part in the festival alongside numerous foreign artists and the headline event of the whole spectacle will be top theatrical performers Malabar from France who will be staging their show Les Aquareves.

18.08 Saturday Bright People 

Venues Bolshoi Theatre Helikon Opera Internat Internationa ionall House of of Music Chambe Chamberr Hall International International House House of Music Svetlanov Svetlanov Hall Internat Internationa ionall House House of of Music Music Theatre Theatre Hall Hall Kolob ov Novaya Opera Mal y Theatre Moscow Ph Philarmoni c Chamb e err Ha Hall Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall M os os co co w P hi hi lh lh ar ar mo mo ni ni c Tc Tc ha ha ik ov ov sk sk y H al al l Stanislavsky Music Theatre

12.08 Sunday Once in the park 

A creative carnival atmosphe re will be created in the park  at this special festival combining 3-D art, circus wizzadry, acrobatics, street theatre, music an d more. A total of 500 different artists will be performing all kind of wonderful acts across the park including acrobats, actors, dancers, live statues, street theatre enthusiasts and musicians  from as far af ield as Ar gentina a nd Australi a. There will of course also be craft workshops where you can put  your idle hands to good use and dif ferent stalls, classes and installations courtesy of local design institutes such as Winzavod, Flacon and the British School of Design, the hands-on Experimentarium museum and the quirky  nation of Cardboardia who aim to build a new cardboard colony in the park.

BT HO IHMC  IHMS IHMT KNOT MT P CH PGH PSH P TH TH SMT

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

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culture & events

16

Concerts Aug 11 

Time 19:00

26

19:00

30 Sept 08, 09, 13, 16, 17, 20, 23 11 

19:00 Time 19:00

19:00

1 4, 4, 1 5 1 9: 9: 00 00 17  19:00 18, 19

1 9: 9: 00 00

18 19

19:00 19:00

20

19:00

20

19:00

21  21 

19:00 19:00

25

19:00

26

19:00

26 29

19:00 13:00

29

19:00

29

19:00

30

19:00

Event Peter Laul, piano and Ilya Gringoltz, violin The Welsh Association Male Voice Choir (Wales) Trio Con cord es Event The Russian National Orchestra

Venue IHMC  IHMC  IHMC   Venue PTH

Brass Band of the IHMS German Armed Forces Clan di Adriano ano Celentano IHMT Concha Buika (vocal), IHMS  flamenco A . Ry Ry bn bn ik ik ov ov : Ha Ha l el el uj uj ah ah IHMT Kova (premiere) R om om an an P er er uc uc ki ki , or or ga ga n I HM HM S Moscow Symphony  IHMS Orchestra: Bach-Vivaldi Maxim Piganov`s IHMT trombone - show The Golden Hits of the IHMS `50s - Vivaldi Orchestra and Off-Beat band Demis Russos IHMS Cechomor group (Czech IHMT Republic) Dmitry Hvorostovsky, IHMS baritone Moscow Symphony  IHMS Orchestra Russian: Strauss-gala Solo Tango Orquesta IHMT In The Organ Kingdom. IHMS Organ music of Germany  Vladimir Bajkov and IHMC  Bolshoi Theatre Sextet  Jane Monheit and Igor  IHMS Butman Ensemble Russia, IHMC  directed by L. Zykina

11.08 Saturday 20:00 Ministry  Arena Moscow, Leningradksy pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 612 79 00, www.arenagroup.ru. Yet another  long forgotten heavy metal band which has resurfaced for a reunion tour. Ministry are fine purveyors of the ultra loud and super grinding guitar genre often referred to as ‘industrial metal’ and with songs like Jesus Built My Hot Rod  they  appeal to the leather jacketed, head-banging biker parade who no doubt would ne ver dare to say that it is all jus t of load a noise. Q Tickets 2,000 - 13,000Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Cinemas 35mm D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasniye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 780 9145, www.kino35mm.ru. Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language films, art house films and festivals. festivals. Q Tickets 250-450Rbl.

5 Zvezd na Novokuznetskoy D-3, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 16, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 510 28 88, www.5zvezd.ru. Popular cinema showing  a wide range of Hollywood blockbusters more often than not in their original language, although make sure you ask about subtitles before you buy your tickets as some films are dubbed. Also at ul. Bakhrushina 25, metro Paveletskaya. Q Tickets 120-350Rbl. Dome Cinema C-1, Renaissance Hotel, Olympisky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 98 73, www.domecinema.ru. Screening films in English without dubbing them into Russian is wonderful and the theatre itself is rarely crowded and really comfortable. They tend towards the latest Hollywood films, with a few off-beat indie films too. Pioner Kutuzovsky pr. 21, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 52 40, www.pioner-cinema.ru. A fashionably restored 1950s cinema showing new foreign and Russian films in original language with Russian subtitles. Also frequently hosts film festivals and retrospectives.

August - September 2012

Culture & events 21.08 Tuesday 20:30 Korn 

September events

Battle of Borodino

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Pioneering  nu-metal band, famous for bringing (for better or for worse) guttural screaming and painfully roaring guitars into the headbanging scene in the 1990s. Korn still have the power  to shock and delight their hard-rocking fans, despite being  little seen of late in the charts, and are regular visitors to the Russian capital. Q Tickets 1,890Rbl. VIP 12,000 - 15,000Rbl.

01.09 Saturday Moscow City Day 

02.09 Sunday Military Reenactment - The Battle of  Borodino 

September 04 is regarded to be Moscow’s official birthday  and this year the city turns 865 years old. City day is usually  marked by a giant street party on the first Saturday of the month (this year September 01) which takes over most of  the area around Teatralnaya square, Red square and the lower end of Tverskaya ulitsa. There will be stages set up in squares gardens and parks across the city including Gorky  Park, Kolomenskoye, Park Pobedy, Sokolniki and Tsaritsyno where concerts and other special shows will be staged. Photography exhibitions, children’s theatre, music, dancing and street performances can also be found in the green spaces along the boulevard ring, especially around Pushkinskaya square and the Chistye Prudy ponds.

25.08 Saturday 12:00 - 22:00 Afish Eda food festival  Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, prazdnik.eda.ru. Run by one of the country’s most popular food magazines, the Afisha Eda festival is a foodie heaven. Row upon row of stalls will be filling one half of Gorky Park for a day with the heavenly  smells of sizzling meats, artisan pizzas, homemade falafel, curry, couscous and much, mu ch more. Last year’s hog roast  was particularly mouth-watering. The only downside of putting  this much tasty food in front of thousands of hungry eaters is that the queues can be phenomenal and you may find yourself leaving  having eaten much less than intended. There will also be cookery masterclasses and the chance to buy exotic ingredients and exclusive cooking utensils. Q Tickets 600Rbl.

Tiesto 24.08 Friday 22:00 Tiesto 

01.09 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday Spasskaya Tower - International Military Music  Festival  C-2, Red Square, MPloshchad Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 726 61 50, kremlin-military-tattoo.ru. The Moscow Military Tattoo is one of the biggest displays of military musical groups in the world. With the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral as its backdrop, the Spasskaya Tower festival features more than 1,000 musicians and soldiers from numerous different  countries including China, France, Germany, Germany, the UK, Italy, Kazakhstan, Poland and Singapore as well as Russia. The tattoo is not only about horns, drums and goose-stepping; 3-D laser and video effects, light shows, pyrotechnic and tons of fireworks add even more pomp and purpose to the stirring  military display. Q Tickets 500 - 2,700Rbl.

Through 02.09 Sunday Summer Times Open Cinema 

Stadium-Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17 MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.stadium-live.ru Tiesto is the Netherlands’ number one DJ and has be en  frequ ently named the best trance DJ in the world - he is so popular that he was even asked to perform at th e opening ceremony of the Athens Olympics in 2004. The numbers of tickets sold for his performances only  go to prove that he is the king of the decks - ever heard of any other DJ selling out  30,000 seater stadiums?! As part of the celebration of  the 17th birthday of Russian dance music promoters Radio Record, Tiesto will be  joine d at t his spe cial par ty  by popular DJs Matisse and Sadko, Swanky Tunes and others. QTickets 1,100 3,900Rbl.

moscow inyourpo cket com

Borodino, Moscow region, 1812-2012.org. Every  year hundreds of historical reenactment fans gather  on the fields of Borodino to the west of Moscow to recreate one of the most epic bat tles in modern history. As 2012 marks the 200th anniversary of the battle of  Borodino, this year’s reenactment will be an especially  spectacular affair with hundreds of military enthusiasts  from France also taking part alongsid e t heir Russian counterparts. During the reenactment (which will officially  start at 15:00), the troops of both armies come out in  full military re galia, horses charge across the land scape and muskets and canons are fired to give as realistic (and safe) an impression of the chaos of the day as possible. You can also expect to find many history fanatics in the audience dressed as Napoleon or as soldiers or in the case of the women dolled up in spectacular period dresses and hats, whilst other non-military figures such as squires and doctors also make an appearance on the field. Q GETTING THERE: Local trains (no toilets) to Borodino leave from Belorussk y railways station and take  just under thr ee hours. From the Borodin o station it is a short bus ride to the ba ttlefield or a 40minute - 1hour  walk through the surrounding fields. Alternatively you can take a train to Mozhaisk and catch one of the buses headed to the bat tlefield which will be shuttling people  from outside th e train station.

Strelka Institute, Bersenevskaya Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg. 5a,

MKropotkinskaya, www.coolconnections.ru.The www.coolconnections.ru.The Strelka Design Institute’s open courtyard in the Red October Factory  and the independe nt cinema 35mm are again bringing a summer season of foreign films to Mos cow. As usual there will be a focus on short films, with this year’s selections coming from Spain, Britain, France and Scandinavia as well as a host of  new indie films. Choice feature-length English language films on the bill include Whit Stillman’s Damsels in Distress , Irish thriller Dollhouse , Michelle Williams’ latest film Take this  Waltz and Anna Paquin and Matt Damon in the psychological drama Margaret.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at  www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

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August - September 2012

17

culture & events

16

Concerts Aug 11 

Time 19:00

26

19:00

30 Sept 08, 09, 13, 16, 17, 20, 23 11 

19:00 Time 19:00

19:00

1 4, 4, 1 5 1 9: 9: 00 00 17  19:00 18, 19

1 9: 9: 00 00

18 19

19:00 19:00

20

19:00

20

19:00

21  21 

19:00 19:00

25

19:00

26

19:00

26 29

19:00 13:00

29

19:00

29

19:00

30

19:00

Event Peter Laul, piano and Ilya Gringoltz, violin The Welsh Association Male Voice Choir (Wales) Trio Con cord es Event The Russian National Orchestra

Venue IHMC  IHMC  IHMC   Venue PTH

Brass Band of the IHMS German Armed Forces Clan di Adriano ano Celentano IHMT Concha Buika (vocal), IHMS  flamenco A . Ry Ry bn bn ik ik ov ov : Ha Ha l el el uj uj ah ah IHMT Kova (premiere) R om om an an P er er uc uc ki ki , or or ga ga n I HM HM S Moscow Symphony  IHMS Orchestra: Bach-Vivaldi Maxim Piganov`s IHMT trombone - show The Golden Hits of the IHMS `50s - Vivaldi Orchestra and Off-Beat band Demis Russos IHMS Cechomor group (Czech IHMT Republic) Dmitry Hvorostovsky, IHMS baritone Moscow Symphony  IHMS Orchestra Russian: Strauss-gala Solo Tango Orquesta IHMT In The Organ Kingdom. IHMS Organ music of Germany  Vladimir Bajkov and IHMC  Bolshoi Theatre Sextet  Jane Monheit and Igor  IHMS Butman Ensemble Russia, IHMC  directed by L. Zykina

Culture & events 21.08 Tuesday 20:30 Korn 

September events

Battle of Borodino

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Pioneering  nu-metal band, famous for bringing (for better or for worse) guttural screaming and painfully roaring guitars into the headbanging scene in the 1990s. Korn still have the power  to shock and delight their hard-rocking fans, despite being  little seen of late in the charts, and are regular visitors to the Russian capital. Q Tickets 1,890Rbl. VIP 12,000 - 15,000Rbl.

01.09 Saturday Moscow City Day 

02.09 Sunday Military Reenactment - The Battle of  Borodino 

25.08 Saturday 12:00 - 22:00 Afish Eda food festival  Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, prazdnik.eda.ru. Run by one of the country’s most popular food magazines, the Afisha Eda festival is a foodie heaven. Row upon row of stalls will be filling one half of Gorky Park for a day with the heavenly  smells of sizzling meats, artisan pizzas, homemade falafel, curry, couscous and much, mu ch more. Last year’s hog roast  was particularly mouth-watering. The only downside of putting  this much tasty food in front of thousands of hungry eaters is that the queues can be phenomenal and you may find yourself leaving  having eaten much less than intended. There will also be cookery masterclasses and the chance to buy exotic ingredients and exclusive cooking utensils. Q Tickets 600Rbl.

Tiesto

11.08 Saturday 20:00 Ministry  Arena Moscow, Leningradksy pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 612 79 00, www.arenagroup.ru. Yet another  long forgotten heavy metal band which has resurfaced for a reunion tour. Ministry are fine purveyors of the ultra loud and super grinding guitar genre often referred to as ‘industrial metal’ and with songs like Jesus Built My Hot Rod  they  appeal to the leather jacketed, head-banging biker parade who no doubt would ne ver dare to say that it is all jus t of load a noise. Q Tickets 2,000 - 13,000Rbl.

24.08 Friday 22:00 Tiesto 

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726 61 50, kremlin-military-tattoo.ru. The Moscow Military Tattoo is one of the biggest displays of military musical groups in the world. With the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral as its backdrop, the Spasskaya Tower festival features more than 1,000 musicians and soldiers from numerous different  countries including China, France, Germany, Germany, the UK, Italy, Kazakhstan, Poland and Singapore as well as Russia. The tattoo is not only about horns, drums and goose-stepping; 3-D laser and video effects, light shows, pyrotechnic and tons of fireworks add even more pomp and purpose to the stirring  military display. Q Tickets 500 - 2,700Rbl.

Through 02.09 Sunday Summer Times Open Cinema  Strelka Institute, Bersenevskaya Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg. 5a,

MKropotkinskaya, www.coolconnections.ru.The www.coolconnections.ru.The Strelka Design Institute’s open courtyard in the Red October Factory  and the independe nt cinema 35mm are again bringing a summer season of foreign films to Mos cow. As usual there will be a focus on short films, with this year’s selections coming from Spain, Britain, France and Scandinavia as well as a host of  new indie films. Choice feature-length English language films on the bill include Whit Stillman’s Damsels in Distress , Irish thriller Dollhouse , Michelle Williams’ latest film Take this  Waltz and Anna Paquin and Matt Damon in the psychological drama Margaret.

For all the latest concert, event and exhibition news follow us on facebook at  www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

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culture & events

Sept Time 10, 11  19:00 15, 16, 18, 19 21 - 23 25 27 - 30 29

19:00

Event Venue National Academic Dance PTH Ensemble the Zhok  Don Quixote Quixote (New Stage) BT

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

J ew ewe ls ( M Ma ai n Sta ge ge) REMIX Ball et La Sylphid e Swan Lake

BT IHMT BT SMT

08.09 Saturday - 23.09 Sunday Grand Festival of the Russian National Or-  chestra  B-1, Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall, TriumfalTriumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.rno.ru. Founded in 1990, the Russian National Orchestra has quickly grown to become one of the hardest  working and respected touring orchestras in the world. Usually they are on the road playing in various international  festival s but ever y year they com e back to Mosc ow to take part in their own festival. Now in its fourth year the RNO Grand Festival covers everything from chamber music and ballet to opera, grand symphonic pieces and even jazz. Q Tickets TBA.

14.09 Friday 20:30 Scissor Sisters  Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Led by  the fabulous and charismatic gay icons Jake Shears and Ana Matronic, the Scissor Sisters are a delightfully sparkly  poptastic band whose music combines glam-rock, nu-disco, electronica and good old-fashioned pop. Brash, catchy  and made for dancing  the band has continued to produce hit after hit  during their 10 year career including  Filthy/  Gorgeous , Take Your  Mama Out, Laura  and of course I Don’t Feel  Like Dancin’  and their  concerts are famously  colourful and energetic affairs. This gig is part  of a world tour promoting their fourth album Magic Hour  which was released this May. Q Tickets 2,390Rbl. VIP  12,000 - 20,000Rbl.

14.09 Friday - 16.09 Sunday Festival of German Culture  B-4, Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, www.germanyinrussia.ru. This event promises to be one of the highlights of the German-Russian friendship year. year. For three days Gorky Park  will be taking on a new look inspired by modern Germany  and in particular German street culture. Famous street artists will be leaving their mark on the park, while there will be concerts by famous modern German stars throughout  the weekend. To give the whole event a particularly Teutonic  feel special new kiosks will b e in stalle d se lling tradit ional German snacks such as pretzels, gingerbread cookies and, of course, sausages.

Moscow In Your Pocket

August - September 2012

Culture & events 16.09 Sunday Run Moscow 2012 

Ballet and Dance

Borodino, Moscow region, 1812-2012.org. Every  year hundreds of historical reenactment fans gather  on the fields of Borodino to the west of Moscow to recreate one of the most epic bat tles in modern history. As 2012 marks the 200th anniversary of the battle of  Borodino, this year’s reenactment will be an especially  spectacular affair with hundreds of military enthusiasts  from France also taking part alongsid e t heir Russian counterparts. During the reenactment (which will officially  start at 15:00), the troops of both armies come out in  full military re galia, horses charge across the land scape and muskets and canons are fired to give as realistic (and safe) an impression of the chaos of the day as possible. You can also expect to find many history fanatics in the audience dressed as Napoleon or as soldiers or in the case of the women dolled up in spectacular period dresses and hats, whilst other non-military figures such as squires and doctors also make an appearance on the field. Q GETTING THERE: Local trains (no toilets) to Borodino leave from Belorussk y railways station and take  just under thr ee hours. From the Borodin o station it is a short bus ride to the ba ttlefield or a 40minute - 1hour  walk through the surrounding fields. Alternatively you can take a train to Mozhaisk and catch one of the buses headed to the bat tlefield which will be shuttling people  from outside th e train station.

01.09 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday Spasskaya Tower - International Military Music  Festival  C-2, Red Square, MPloshchad Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495

Stadium-Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17 MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.stadium-live.ru Tiesto is the Netherlands’ number one DJ and has be en  frequ ently named the best trance DJ in the world - he is so popular that he was even asked to perform at th e opening ceremony of the Athens Olympics in 2004. The numbers of tickets sold for his performances only  go to prove that he is the king of the decks - ever heard of any other DJ selling out  30,000 seater stadiums?! As part of the celebration of  the 17th birthday of Russian dance music promoters Radio Record, Tiesto will be  joine d at t his spe cial par ty  by popular DJs Matisse and Sadko, Swanky Tunes and others. QTickets 1,100 3,900Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket

18

September 04 is regarded to be Moscow’s official birthday  and this year the city turns 865 years old. City day is usually  marked by a giant street party on the first Saturday of the month (this year September 01) which takes over most of  the area around Teatralnaya square, Red square and the lower end of Tverskaya ulitsa. There will be stages set up in squares gardens and parks across the city including Gorky  Park, Kolomenskoye, Park Pobedy, Sokolniki and Tsaritsyno where concerts and other special shows will be staged. Photography exhibitions, children’s theatre, music, dancing and street performances can also be found in the green spaces along the boulevard ring, especially around Pushkinskaya square and the Chistye Prudy ponds.

Summer at Strelka

Location will be announced in the week prior to the run, www.runmoscow.com. Sponsored by Nike, the Run Moscow event is a fun and energising day out for all running fans, whether you’re an occasional jogger or a dedicated fi tness  fan. You can register for the race online and at Moscow’s Nike stores in the month prior to the race, while if you arrive early  enough (and provided there’s still space) it is also possible to register on the day. In 2011 thousands of runners did 5km and 10km runs around Moscow’s Olympic stadium while in previous years the event has also take place at Red Square. It is all extremely professionally organised with cloakrooms and changing areas as well as electronic timers on your  number badges. Other bonuses include getting a free Run Moscow t-shirt rt and, i f you have still got enough energ y left, a free post-run concert by a well-known well-known international act (in previous years the Klaxons and Sophie Ellis Bextor played in the evening). Now you kn ow all that it’s time to follow the Run Moscow slogan; ‘less talking, more running’.

18.09 Tuesday 19:00 Placebo  C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 773 79 30, www.placeboworld. co.uk. Post-punkers Placebo are often described as a kind of glam version of Nirvana and are well known for their  lead singer Brain Molko’s wailing and nasal vocal style and androgynous look. Singing as they do, mostly about drug  abuse, depression and failed relationships they have quite an emo following, although their newer songs are noticeably  more positive and have garnered them a wider appeal. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

Through 28.09 Friday C-3, Strelka Institute for Media, Architecture and Design, Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg.5a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 37, strelkainstitute. com. Throughout the summer Moscow’s leading design institute Strelka will be running a summer programme of  top open-air concerts, cinema and theatre performances,  flea markets, farmer’s markets and more. As an educational institute Strelka will also be running a series of free lectures and workshops by international designers and idea-creators from across the world. Keep an eye on their  website for the latest announcements and timetables.

21.09 Friday 20:00 Crystal Castles  A-1, Milk Club, ul. Sergeya Makeeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.crystalcastles. Toronto based dance act mix the popular synthcom. This Toronto loaded electronic style wi th live drum beats, the sound ef fects from someone’s game boy and an all-out punk attitude. Crystal Castle’s fierce live performances are the stuff  of legend and usually see the band’s fabulously punk  and infinitely wild-at-heart  lead singer Alice Glass launching herself into the crowd, then clambering  back on stage to howl another track into the mic before demolishing the drum kit and strolling off  into the night. Q Tickets 1,800 - 2,200Rbl.

28.09 Friday 20:30 The Kooks  Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. A selfproclaimed pop band, these youngsters came out around the same time as those other youthful cheeky boys the Arctic Monkeys and had an equal number of catchy  happy-go-lucky hits. Their  debut album was a storm, but their follow up received mixed reviews. However, despite their band member  changes, various bust-ups and a delayed third album release, the shaggy haired boys from Brighton remain real charmers. Q Tickets 1,490 - 10,000Rbl.

30.09 Sunday 19:00 Il Divo  Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ildivo.com. Pop-opera collective Il Divo are the brainchild of pop music mogul and X-Factor judge Simon Cowell. The quartet are an international roster of French, Spanish, American and Swiss nationalities united by their boyish good looks, slick suits and dazzling  smiles. Essentially they are bit like the Three Tenors, minus the superstar fame and outstanding legacy in the classical world, but with added good looks and glitzy showbiz dazzle. Q Tickets 3,000 - 6,500Rbl.

22.09 Saturday 20:30 Kasabian 

21.09 Friday 19:00 Lenny Kravitz  Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lennykravitz.com. The four time Grammy award winner arrives in Russia as part of continued promotion of his 2011 album Black and White America . In a musical career spanning over 20 years, Kravitz has transcended genre, style and race and has sold 40 million albums worldwide. Never one to sit still, besides writing and performing the 16 tracks on the new album, he had a part in the Oscar  nominated movie Precious as well as the blockbuster   fi lm Th e Hun ger Gam es based on Suzanne Collins’ hit novel. Q Tickets 3,000 - 15,000Rbl.

moscow inyourpo cket com

17

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.kasabian.co.uk. Currently  touring to promote their fourth album Velociraptor ! the British ‘lad rock’ band return to Moscow against for the second time this year. The band have been dogged their whole career by comparisons with Britpop super group Oasis, and in many ways the comparisons are not entirely unfair. They  do produce those anthem-style guitar-led songs that glorify  the lad culture of footy, cigarettes and booze. In recent years they’ve also been dabbling in psychedelic sounds a la Primal Scream, but essentially their swaggering Britpop formula remains the same. Q Tickets 3,100 - 15,000Rbl.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Opera and Operetta Sept 06 - 09 06, 08, 10 28 - 30

Time 19:00 19:00

12, 13 15, 16, 18, 19, 20 20 22, 23 22 25 27  28 28, 30 29, 30 29

19:00 19:00

19:00

19:00 19:00 15:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 1 9: 9: 00 00

Event Das Lieb esverb ot Don Giovanni (Main Stage) Back in the USSR (premiere) Franzis Franziskus kus (New Stage) Stage) The Enchantress (Main Stage)

Venue HO BT

Princ e Igor La Boheme Boheme (New Stage) Stage) Lohengrin Ri golet to L`Elisir d` d`amore Eu g e n e O n e g i n Pe l ea ea s e r M el el is an an de de La Cen erentola D on on iz iz et et titi : N at at io io na na l Philharmonic of Russia, Sveshnikov State Academic Russian Choir 

KNOT BT KNOT KNOT KNOT KNOT SM T KNOT TCH

HO BT BT

August - September 2012

19

18

culture & events 16.09 Sunday Run Moscow 2012 

Ballet and Dance Sept Time 10, 11  19:00 15, 16, 18, 19 21 - 23 25 27 - 30 29

Culture & events

19:00

Event Venue National Academic Dance PTH Ensemble the Zhok  Don Quixote Quixote (New Stage) BT

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

J ew ewe ls ( M Ma ai n Sta ge ge) REMIX Ball et La Sylphid e Swan Lake

BT IHMT BT SMT

08.09 Saturday - 23.09 Sunday Grand Festival of the Russian National Or-  chestra  B-1, Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall, TriumfalTriumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.rno.ru. Founded in 1990, the Russian National Orchestra has quickly grown to become one of the hardest  working and respected touring orchestras in the world. Usually they are on the road playing in various international  festival s but ever y year they com e back to Mosc ow to take part in their own festival. Now in its fourth year the RNO Grand Festival covers everything from chamber music and ballet to opera, grand symphonic pieces and even jazz. Q Tickets TBA.

14.09 Friday 20:30 Scissor Sisters  Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. Led by  the fabulous and charismatic gay icons Jake Shears and Ana Matronic, the Scissor Sisters are a delightfully sparkly  poptastic band whose music combines glam-rock, nu-disco, electronica and good old-fashioned pop. Brash, catchy  and made for dancing  the band has continued to produce hit after hit  during their 10 year career including  Filthy/  Gorgeous , Take Your  Mama Out, Laura  and of course I Don’t Feel  Like Dancin’  and their  concerts are famously  colourful and energetic affairs. This gig is part  of a world tour promoting their fourth album Magic Hour  which was released this May. Q Tickets 2,390Rbl. VIP  12,000 - 20,000Rbl.

14.09 Friday - 16.09 Sunday Festival of German Culture  B-4, Gorky Park, MPark Kultury, www.germanyinrussia.ru. This event promises to be one of the highlights of the German-Russian friendship year. year. For three days Gorky Park  will be taking on a new look inspired by modern Germany  and in particular German street culture. Famous street artists will be leaving their mark on the park, while there will be concerts by famous modern German stars throughout  the weekend. To give the whole event a particularly Teutonic  feel special new kiosks will b e in stalle d se lling tradit ional German snacks such as pretzels, gingerbread cookies and, of course, sausages.

Location will be announced in the week prior to the run, www.runmoscow.com. Sponsored by Nike, the Run Moscow event is a fun and energising day out for all running fans, whether you’re an occasional jogger or a dedicated fi tness  fan. You can register for the race online and at Moscow’s Nike stores in the month prior to the race, while if you arrive early  enough (and provided there’s still space) it is also possible to register on the day. In 2011 thousands of runners did 5km and 10km runs around Moscow’s Olympic stadium while in previous years the event has also take place at Red Square. It is all extremely professionally organised with cloakrooms and changing areas as well as electronic timers on your  number badges. Other bonuses include getting a free Run Moscow t-shirt rt and, i f you have still got enough energ y left, a free post-run concert by a well-known well-known international act (in previous years the Klaxons and Sophie Ellis Bextor played in the evening). Now you kn ow all that it’s time to follow the Run Moscow slogan; ‘less talking, more running’.

18.09 Tuesday 19:00 Placebo  C-1, SK Olimpiysky, Olimpiysky pr.16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 773 79 30, www.placeboworld. co.uk. Post-punkers Placebo are often described as a kind of glam version of Nirvana and are well known for their  lead singer Brain Molko’s wailing and nasal vocal style and androgynous look. Singing as they do, mostly about drug  abuse, depression and failed relationships they have quite an emo following, although their newer songs are noticeably  more positive and have garnered them a wider appeal. Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.

Through 28.09 Friday C-3, Strelka Institute for Media, Architecture and Design, Bersenevskaya nab. 14, bldg.5a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 37, strelkainstitute. com. Throughout the summer Moscow’s leading design institute Strelka will be running a summer programme of  top open-air concerts, cinema and theatre performances,  flea markets, farmer’s markets and more. As an educational institute Strelka will also be running a series of free lectures and workshops by international designers and idea-creators from across the world. Keep an eye on their  website for the latest announcements and timetables.

21.09 Friday 20:00 Crystal Castles  A-1, Milk Club, ul. Sergeya Makeeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.crystalcastles. Toronto based dance act mix the popular synthcom. This Toronto loaded electronic style wi th live drum beats, the sound ef fects from someone’s game boy and an all-out punk attitude. Crystal Castle’s fierce live performances are the stuff  of legend and usually see the band’s fabulously punk  and infinitely wild-at-heart  lead singer Alice Glass launching herself into the crowd, then clambering  back on stage to howl another track into the mic before demolishing the drum kit and strolling off  into the night. Q Tickets 1,800 - 2,200Rbl.

21.09 Friday 19:00 Lenny Kravitz  Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lennykravitz.com. The four time Grammy award winner arrives in Russia as part of continued promotion of his 2011 album Black and White America . In a musical career spanning over 20 years, Kravitz has transcended genre, style and race and has sold 40 million albums worldwide. Never one to sit still, besides writing and performing the 16 tracks on the new album, he had a part in the Oscar  nominated movie Precious as well as the blockbuster   fi lm Th e Hun ger Gam es based on Suzanne Collins’ hit novel. Q Tickets 3,000 - 15,000Rbl.

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.kasabian.co.uk. Currently  touring to promote their fourth album Velociraptor ! the British ‘lad rock’ band return to Moscow against for the second time this year. The band have been dogged their whole career by comparisons with Britpop super group Oasis, and in many ways the comparisons are not entirely unfair. They  do produce those anthem-style guitar-led songs that glorify  the lad culture of footy, cigarettes and booze. In recent years they’ve also been dabbling in psychedelic sounds a la Primal Scream, but essentially their swaggering Britpop formula remains the same. Q Tickets 3,100 - 15,000Rbl.

Exhibitions

Through 02.09 Sunday 100 Years of the Pushkin Museum 

Classical theatre: The Maly Theatre The granddaddy of the Moscow Theatre world is the Maly (small) Theatre, Theatre, whose main premises is on Teatralnaya Teatralnaya ploschad adjacent to the famous Bolshoi (big) Theatre. The history of the theatre dates all the way back to 1756 when the company was founded during Catherine the Great’s reign. During the 19th Century the theatre became a favourite with some of  the country’s most noted playwrights, in particular Ostrovsky who premiered 40 of his 52 plays here leading  the theatre to be nicknamed ‘ the house of Ostrovsky’. If  you are looking to enjoy classical Russian theatre from the likes of Chekhov, Pushkin, Ostrovsky and Gogol the Maly is probably one of the best choices. The fact that  there is a slavish attention to tradition and classical production means that (with a little prior knowledge of  the general plot) intermediate students of Russian as well as more fluent non-natives can follow the action quite well without the help of subtitles. The new theatre season at Maly Theatre’s two stages opens on October  09 and upcoming classical highlights of the next season include a new production of Pushkin’s Queen of Spades , Ostrovsky’s Poverty is no crime , Gorky’s Children of  the sun and works by Chekhov including Three Sisters  and The Seagull .

B/C-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. This year Moscow’s largest museum of  European art celebrates its 100th anniversary. As part of  a programme of special events to mark the centenary they  are staging this exhibition which aims to tell the story of the museum’s history, from its grand ope ning by the Tsar in 1912 up to the present day. The exhibition puts the museum’s history in context by using archival photographs and documents, displayed next to the actual artworks which they concern and also looks to the future by presenting the museum’s ambitious extension plans designed by British architect  Norman Foster. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Through 30.09 Sunday Marc Chagall  C-3, Tretyakov Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. One of the most extensive exhibitions of the famous arti st’s works ever seen in Russia. In honour of Chagall’s 125th birthday, the exhibition aims to bring together all elements of his extensive artwork and  features a wide ran ge of paintings, drawi ngs, watercol ours, collages, etchings and sculpture. A particular focus is als o put on his international subject matter with paintings from his travels across the Slavic world featuring heavily, as well as famous works produced in Paris brought to Moscow with the help of French collectors. Other rare highlights  from the coll ecti on in clud e ill ustr ation s for Gogol’ s De ad Souls, the Bible and La Fontaine’s fables. Q Open 10:30 - 19:30. Closed Mon.

Modern theatre Those more interested in testing their Russian knowledge on modern Russian plays should look out for the productions at newer theatres such as the Praktika Theatre or Moscow’s most recently opened experimental theatre Teatr.doc. Teatr.doc.

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ildivo.com. Pop-opera collective Il Divo are the brainchild of pop music mogul and X-Factor judge Simon Cowell. The quartet are an international roster of French, Spanish, American and Swiss nationalities united by their boyish good looks, slick suits and dazzling  smiles. Essentially they are bit like the Three Tenors, minus the superstar fame and outstanding legacy in the classical world, but with added good looks and glitzy showbiz dazzle. Q Tickets 3,000 - 6,500Rbl.

Opera and Operetta Sept 06 - 09 06, 08, 10 28 - 30

Time 19:00 19:00

12, 13 15, 16, 18, 19, 20 20 22, 23 22 25 27  28 28, 30 29, 30 29

19:00 19:00

19:00

19:00 19:00 15:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 1 9: 9: 00 00

Event Das Lieb esverb ot Don Giovanni (Main Stage) Back in the USSR (premiere) Franzis Franziskus kus (New Stage) Stage) The Enchantress (Main Stage)

Venue HO BT

Princ e Igor La Boheme Boheme (New Stage) Stage) Lohengrin Ri golet to L`Elisir d` d`amore Eu g e n e O n e g i n Pe l ea ea s e r M el el is an an de de La Cen erentola D on on iz iz et et titi : N at at io io na na l Philharmonic of Russia, Sveshnikov State Academic Russian Choir 

KNOT BT KNOT KNOT KNOT KNOT SM T KNOT TCH

HO BT BT

August - September 2012

Through 25.08 Saturday Russians and Germans. 1000 years of history  and culture  C-2, State History Museum, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. This joint  project between the state museums of Russia and Germany  illustrates the long and deep ties that have connected the two cultures over the centuries. The 700 items on display  include manuscripts from celebrated Russian and German writers such as Dostoevsky and Schiller, historic treaties which were signed between the two countries including the 1939 pact, precious gifts which had been passed b etween the various emperors and tsars during times of peace, portraits, architectural sketches and blue prints, ancient religious manuscripts, cinematography, scientific displays and much more. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Through 16.09 Sunday We  C-3, Lumiere Gallery, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. The excellent Lumiere photography gallery has come yet again with another great  exhibition which looks deep into Russian culture. The theme of this exhibition is portraits and they have collected together  300 different portraits of ordinary Russians taken over a 70 year period, providing a snapshot into the daily lives of Russians over the last centur y, with some dating all the way back  to the 1920s. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00.

13.09 Thursday - 14.10 Sunday Joseph Beuys: Call for an alternative  B-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous modern German artist whose extensive and o ccasionally controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and thought-provoking. This impressive exhibition will show off  some of his most famous installations brought over especially   from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century  and Tram S top  as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most   fam ou s pe rf orm an ce s will also be screened including  How to Explain Pictures to a Dead Hare  and I Like America and  America Likes Me . Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.

19.09 Wednesday - 23.09 Sunday Art Moscow 2012 

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatral-

B/C-4, Central House of Artists, 10 Krymsky val, MPark Kultury,w ww.art-moscow.ru. ww.art-moscow.ru.This This international art gathering is said to be the largest contemporary art fair in eastern Europe. The huge Art Moscow space is dedi cated to showing  the works from upcoming art galleries from across the world and is as popular with the usual appreciator of art as with more serious art collectors. As well as the art, there are also numerous art publications and magazines represented as well as works from the collections of local cultural institutions.

naya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly. ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK Praktika Theatre B-1, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovsaya, (+7) 499 237 31 81, www.praktikatheatre.ru. Teatr.doc B-1, Tryokhprudny per. 11/13, bldg. 1 MMayakovskaya, www.teatrdoc.ru.

Moscow In Your Pocket

30.09 Sunday 19:00 Il Divo 

Culture & events

From Rembrandt and Picasso all the way through to Andy  Warhol and David Lynch, the latest and the greatest in the world of art can be found in the Russian capital

The Russian theatrical tradition is one of the strongest  and most thriving in the world. For Russians the stars of the stage are often much more famous than their  counterparts playing on the silver screen and the old adage about leaving a Russian theatre in tears after a powerful performance is certainly not a myth for many. In terms of dramatic theatre Moscow can be considered to be the capital, it has many of the country’s strongest  ensembles and highly respected theatres.

Stadium-live, Leningradsky pr.80, bldg.17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. A selfproclaimed pop band, these youngsters came out around the same time as those other youthful cheeky boys the Arctic Monkeys and had an equal number of catchy  happy-go-lucky hits. Their  debut album was a storm, but their follow up received mixed reviews. However, despite their band member  changes, various bust-ups and a delayed third album release, the shaggy haired boys from Brighton remain real charmers. Q Tickets 1,490 - 10,000Rbl.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

culture & events Russian Theatre

28.09 Friday 20:30 The Kooks 

22.09 Saturday 20:30 Kasabian 

Moscow In Your Pocket

20

Summer at Strelka

19

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Football in Moscow Aug 3 4 10 11 17 18 25 25 Sep 1 1 14 15 21 22 29

Fi Fixture CSKA CSKA Mosc Moscow ow - Zeni Zenitt St. St. Peter Petersbu sburg rg D in am am o M os os co co w - Sp Sp ar ar t ak ak M os os co co w Loko Lokomot motiv iv Mosc Moscow ow - Ana Analia lia Vladikavkaz  CSKA CSKA Mosco Moscow w - Anzh Anzhii M Makh akhach achka kala la Sp ar ar ta ta k M os os co co w - R ub ub in Ka za za n Di na na mo mo Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - Te re re k G ro roz ny ny i CSKA Moscow - Krylya Sovetov Samara Lokomotiv Moscow - Dinamo Moscow

Venue Khim Khimki ki K hi hi mk mk i Lokomotiv

F ixture D in am am o Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - K ub ub a an n K ra ra sn sn o da da r S pa pa rt rt a ak k Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - L o ok k om om ot ot iv iv Moscow Lo ok k om om ot ot iv iv M os os co co w - R ub ub in Ka Ka za za n CSKA Moscow Moscow - Analia Vladikavkaz k avkaz Spar ta tak Mo Moscow - FK Ro Rostov Di na nam o M os os co co w - A mk mkar Per m C SK SK A Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - Di Di na na mo mo Mo Mo sc sc ow ow

Venue K hi hi mk mk i Luzhniki

Khim Khimki ki L uz uz hn hn ik i K hi hi mk mk i Khimki Lokomotiv

Lo ok k om om ot ot iv iv Khimki m ki Luzhniki Khimki K hi hi mk mk i

Arena Khimiki Stadium, ul. Kirova 24, Khimki (Moscow region). Buses to Khimki leave from MRechnoi Vokzal (north end of the green line) Lokomotiv Stadium, Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya ul. 125A, MCherkizovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 161 42 83, www.fclm.ru Luzhniki Stadium, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru

August - September 2012

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culture & events Russian Theatre

Culture & events Exhibitions From Rembrandt and Picasso all the way through to Andy  Warhol and David Lynch, the latest and the greatest in the world of art can be found in the Russian capital

Through 02.09 Sunday 100 Years of the Pushkin Museum 

The Russian theatrical tradition is one of the strongest  and most thriving in the world. For Russians the stars of the stage are often much more famous than their  counterparts playing on the silver screen and the old adage about leaving a Russian theatre in tears after a powerful performance is certainly not a myth for many. In terms of dramatic theatre Moscow can be considered to be the capital, it has many of the country’s strongest  ensembles and highly respected theatres.

Classical theatre: The Maly Theatre The granddaddy of the Moscow Theatre world is the Maly (small) Theatre, Theatre, whose main premises is on Teatralnaya Teatralnaya ploschad adjacent to the famous Bolshoi (big) Theatre. The history of the theatre dates all the way back to 1756 when the company was founded during Catherine the Great’s reign. During the 19th Century the theatre became a favourite with some of  the country’s most noted playwrights, in particular Ostrovsky who premiered 40 of his 52 plays here leading  the theatre to be nicknamed ‘ the house of Ostrovsky’. If  you are looking to enjoy classical Russian theatre from the likes of Chekhov, Pushkin, Ostrovsky and Gogol the Maly is probably one of the best choices. The fact that  there is a slavish attention to tradition and classical production means that (with a little prior knowledge of  the general plot) intermediate students of Russian as well as more fluent non-natives can follow the action quite well without the help of subtitles. The new theatre season at Maly Theatre’s two stages opens on October  09 and upcoming classical highlights of the next season include a new production of Pushkin’s Queen of Spades , Ostrovsky’s Poverty is no crime , Gorky’s Children of  the sun and works by Chekhov including Three Sisters  and The Seagull .

B/C-2, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. This year Moscow’s largest museum of  European art celebrates its 100th anniversary. As part of  a programme of special events to mark the centenary they  are staging this exhibition which aims to tell the story of the museum’s history, from its grand ope ning by the Tsar in 1912 up to the present day. The exhibition puts the museum’s history in context by using archival photographs and documents, displayed next to the actual artworks which they concern and also looks to the future by presenting the museum’s ambitious extension plans designed by British architect  Norman Foster. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Through 30.09 Sunday Marc Chagall  C-3, Tretyakov Tretyakov State Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. One of the most extensive exhibitions of the famous arti st’s works ever seen in Russia. In honour of Chagall’s 125th birthday, the exhibition aims to bring together all elements of his extensive artwork and  features a wide ran ge of paintings, drawi ngs, watercol ours, collages, etchings and sculpture. A particular focus is als o put on his international subject matter with paintings from his travels across the Slavic world featuring heavily, as well as famous works produced in Paris brought to Moscow with the help of French collectors. Other rare highlights  from the coll ecti on in clud e ill ustr ation s for Gogol’ s De ad Souls, the Bible and La Fontaine’s fables. Q Open 10:30 - 19:30. Closed Mon.

Modern theatre Those more interested in testing their Russian knowledge on modern Russian plays should look out for the productions at newer theatres such as the Praktika Theatre or Moscow’s most recently opened experimental theatre Teatr.doc. Teatr.doc.

Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. This joint  project between the state museums of Russia and Germany  illustrates the long and deep ties that have connected the two cultures over the centuries. The 700 items on display  include manuscripts from celebrated Russian and German writers such as Dostoevsky and Schiller, historic treaties which were signed between the two countries including the 1939 pact, precious gifts which had been passed b etween the various emperors and tsars during times of peace, portraits, architectural sketches and blue prints, ancient religious manuscripts, cinematography, scientific displays and much more. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Through 16.09 Sunday We  C-3, Lumiere Gallery, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. The excellent Lumiere photography gallery has come yet again with another great  exhibition which looks deep into Russian culture. The theme of this exhibition is portraits and they have collected together  300 different portraits of ordinary Russians taken over a 70 year period, providing a snapshot into the daily lives of Russians over the last centur y, with some dating all the way back  to the 1920s. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00.

13.09 Thursday - 14.10 Sunday Joseph Beuys: Call for an alternative  B-3/2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA), Gogolevsky bul. 10, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 231 36 60, www.mmoma.ru. Dedicated to the world famous modern German artist whose extensive and o ccasionally controversial artworks, made him one of the most influential German artists of the 20th Century. Joseph Beuys’ work is intense and thought-provoking. This impressive exhibition will show off  some of his most famous installations brought over especially   from Germany such as The End of the Twentieth Century  and Tram S top  as well other artworks which the artist used to illustrate his unique thoughts on society. Videos of his most   fam ou s pe rf orm an ce s will also be screened including  How to Explain Pictures to a Dead Hare  and I Like America and  America Likes Me . Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.

B/C-4, Central House of Artists, 10 Krymsky val, MPark Kultury,w ww.art-moscow.ru. ww.art-moscow.ru.This This international art gathering is said to be the largest contemporary art fair in eastern Europe. The huge Art Moscow space is dedi cated to showing  the works from upcoming art galleries from across the world and is as popular with the usual appreciator of art as with more serious art collectors. As well as the art, there are also numerous art publications and magazines represented as well as works from the collections of local cultural institutions.

naya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46. Second stage: C-4, Ul. Bol. Ordynka 69, MDobryninskaya, www.maly. ru. Q Tickets 50 - 2,500Rbl. UK Praktika Theatre B-1, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovsaya, (+7) 499 237 31 81, www.praktikatheatre.ru. Teatr.doc B-1, Tryokhprudny per. 11/13, bldg. 1 MMayakovskaya, www.teatrdoc.ru.

Moscow In Your Pocket

22

Through 25.08 Saturday Russians and Germans. 1000 years of history  and culture  C-2, State History Museum, Red Square, MOkhotny

19.09 Wednesday - 23.09 Sunday Art Moscow 2012 

Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny pr. 1, MTeatral-

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Football in Moscow Aug 3 4 10 11 17 18 25 25 Sep 1 1 14 15 21 22 29

Fi Fixture CSKA CSKA Mosc Moscow ow - Zeni Zenitt St. St. Peter Petersbu sburg rg D in am am o M os os co co w - Sp Sp ar ar t ak ak M os os co co w Loko Lokomot motiv iv Mosc Moscow ow - Ana Analia lia Vladikavkaz  CSKA CSKA Mosco Moscow w - Anzh Anzhii M Makh akhach achka kala la Sp ar ar ta ta k M os os co co w - R ub ub in Ka za za n Di na na mo mo Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - Te re re k G ro roz ny ny i CSKA Moscow - Krylya Sovetov Samara Lokomotiv Moscow - Dinamo Moscow

Venue Khim Khimki ki K hi hi mk mk i Lokomotiv

F ixture D in am am o Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - K ub ub a an n K ra ra sn sn o da da r S pa pa rt rt a ak k Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - L o ok k om om ot ot iv iv Moscow Lo ok k om om ot ot iv iv M os os co co w - R ub ub in Ka Ka za za n CSKA Moscow Moscow - Analia Vladikavkaz k avkaz Spar ta tak Mo Moscow - FK Ro Rostov Di na nam o M os os co co w - A mk mkar Per m C SK SK A Mo Mo sc sc ow ow - Di Di na na mo mo Mo Mo sc sc ow ow

Venue K hi hi mk mk i Luzhniki

Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow C-2, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow.Without www.kempinski.com/moscow. Without actually being  the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river  and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of  royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor  members of the Bri tish royal family. Suites also have the most  sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of  design magazines. Brunch is ser ved on Sundays and in-house dining options include the restaurant Baltschug Grill and the Berlin-style Cafe Kranzler. Q230 rooms (190 Single/Double 20,000 - 230,000Rbl, 40 Suite 26,000 - 130,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,900Rbl. Breakfast (1,800Rbl) and VATare not include d.

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Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul.8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel. ru. This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast  of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-of-the-art state-of-the-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very  expensive spa. Due to the specially designed glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out club lounge. Q300 rooms (Deluxe 35,000 - 36,500Rbl, Superior 37,000 - 38,500Rbl, Suite 55,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,700Rbl. VAT not  included. Breakfast (1,600Rbl). PTHAR6UFL� GBKDCW hhhhh

russia.inyourpocket.com

Moscow In Your Pocket

Lokomotiv

Lo ok k om om ot ot iv iv Khimki m ki Luzhniki Khimki K hi hi mk mk i

Vokzal (north end of the green line) Lokomotiv Stadium, Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya ul. 125A, MCherkizovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 161 42 83, www.fclm.ru Luzhniki Stadium, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Hotels 4 stars Courtyard by Marriott B-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com.The yardmoscow.com. The hotel is tucked away on a quiet side street facing an old Anglican church and the world-famous Red Square and Kremlin are just a short walk away giving  you the best of both worlds: the comfort of the hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement of the accessible, fast-paced Tverskaya area. The inside courtyard’s massive glass roof  radiates positive energy into the lobby. All guest rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra comfy beds and pillows. pillows. If you want a great view of the city, ask for a room on one of  the top floors or if you like to people watch, choose a room with a courtyard view. Q218 rooms (Single/double 8,500 11,500Rbl, Suite 13,500 - 16,000Rbl). Breakfast 1,150Rbl.

5 stars Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel . (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. The huge marble pillared ballroom doubles as a conference hall, while the second smaller hall houses the Janus restaurant. Q273 rooms (239 doubles 10,000 - 14,000Rbl, 34 suites 18,000 - 75,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,260Rbl) are not  included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Khim Khimki ki L uz uz hn hn ik i K hi hi mk mk i Khimki

Arena Khimiki Stadium, ul. Kirova 24, Khimki (Moscow region). Buses to Khimki leave from MRechnoi

hotels We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and  friendl y options. Pric es includ e VAT (18%) and break fast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period August - September 2012. 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that  we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

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Holiday Inn Lesnaya Ul. Lesnaya 15, MBelorusskaya, Belorusskaya, tel.

Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated convenien tly on TverTverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott  hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible bookin g. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are qualit y buffet  lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (371 single/double 31,000 - 34,500Rbl, 15 suites 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast (1,450Rbl) and VAT not include d.

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Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, ww w.marriott.com/mowdt. w.marriott.com/mowdt. The presence of the Polo Club Steakhouse, an ode to a blue-blood English gentleman’s club, goes to show that the Marriott Royal Aurora is one for  those looking for refinement. Butler service comes along with the hotel’s classically styled rooms, complete with enormous beds and quality furnishings. The team of well-trained, attentive butlers show guests to their rooms (champagne in-hand) and attend to each and every aspect of their stay. Executive facilities include private meeting rooms and lounges. Q231 rooms (195 Single/double 35,000 - 40,000Rbl, 36 Suite 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast  (1,800Rbl) and VAT not included. PTHA6UFL�

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National, A Luxury Collection Hotel C-2, Ul. Mokhovaya 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. Rub shoulders with history here: this century old building is one of the grand old dames of the Moscow hotel scene. The location doesn’t get any better  and neither does the guest list! Previous guests include Lenin himself. The hotel, while honouring the past, is reassuringly  modern in service standards and management. management. The rooms house not only comfortable be ds and renovated bathrooms, but also original furniture and antique fittings. Q201 rooms (16 singles 15,200Rbl, 129 doubles 18,200 - 21,700Rbl, 56 suites 22,200 - 80,200Rbl). Extra Bed 1,200Rbl, VAT not  included. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included in all room cat egories. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

moscow inyourpo cket com

21

(+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. In classic Holiday Inn style, the restaurant and cafe are modern and inviting, the rooms are well designed and make efficient use of space. Executive floors with their additional privile ges account for two of their 11 floors and there is also a fitnes s centre for all guests. Classy black and white photos of Moscow remind you of what historical (and modern) delights are waiting for you just outside the door. Q301 rooms (17 suites 30,720Rbl, 284 single/double 16,000Rbl). Breakfast  980Rbl. PHA6UFLGKW hhhh

Kadashevskaya Hotel C-3, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 287 87 10, www. kadashevskaya.com.This friendly little upmarket hotel is a kadashevskaya.com.This great base for those wanting to escape from the sometimes soulless feel of Moscow’s larger and grander hotels. With just  35 rooms, the place feels intimate, yet there’s also enough space to feel that you are not bumping into the same people all the time. Rooms are elegantly decorate d with soft cappuccino furnishings giving warmth to the minimalist design. The deluxe rooms are worth the extra money for those hoping for  that riverside view and the rooms up in the attic may have slanted roofs but they also have a lot more flo or space. Q35 rooms (doubles 12,000 - 16,000Rbl, suites 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. 1,000Rbl. PTAUFLGDCW hhhh

Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. An iconic building which sits directly in the centre of the city just steps away from Moscow’s biggest theatres and concert halls, Peking is a winning mix of history, location and modern convenience. Located in one of the historic Stalinist  skyscrapers, the hotel maintains its attractive period features like tall ceilings and large windows which are combined with modern comfort and elegance in the hotel’s newly renovated rooms. All the hotel rooms offer noticeably more space than usual, especially some of the two-room suites, which vary  in size and design. If you are a light sleeper ask for a room  facing the court yard. Q140 rooms (40 singles 6,700Rbl, 71  doubles 8,300Rbl, 29 suites 10,400Rbl). Extra b ed 1,700Rbl. Breakfast 600Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhh

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Booking.com Russia In Your Pocket has been teamed up with Europe’s leading online hotel agency Booking.com to offer hotel booking dire ct from our website. Over 1500 hotels in Russia are already part of Booking.com’s online reservation agency and that’s up from 200 only two years ago, so business is clearly booming. All you need to do is read through our reviews online and if you like the look of a place click on the link and you’ll be directed straight to the venue’s booking page. Then you can browse through any special deals and offers without even picking up the phone. Simple as that! Head to our site russia.inyourpocket.com to try it out for yourself.

Symbol key P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

August - September 2012

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hotels

Hotels

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and  friendl y options. Pric es includ e VAT (18%) and break fast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period August - September 2012. 2012. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing, that  we have not been informed about directly by hotels.

4 stars Courtyard by Marriott B-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com.The yardmoscow.com. The hotel is tucked away on a quiet side street facing an old Anglican church and the world-famous Red Square and Kremlin are just a short walk away giving  you the best of both worlds: the comfort of the hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement of the accessible, fast-paced Tverskaya area. The inside courtyard’s massive glass roof  radiates positive energy into the lobby. All guest rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra comfy beds and pillows. pillows. If you want a great view of the city, ask for a room on one of  the top floors or if you like to people watch, choose a room with a courtyard view. Q218 rooms (Single/double 8,500 11,500Rbl, Suite 13,500 - 16,000Rbl). Breakfast 1,150Rbl.

5 stars Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya D-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel . (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. The huge marble pillared ballroom doubles as a conference hall, while the second smaller hall houses the Janus restaurant. Q273 rooms (239 doubles 10,000 - 14,000Rbl, 34 suites 18,000 - 75,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,260Rbl) are not  included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow C-2, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow.Without www.kempinski.com/moscow. Without actually being  the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river  and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of  royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor  members of the Bri tish royal family. Suites also have the most  sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of  design magazines. Brunch is ser ved on Sundays and in-house dining options include the restaurant Baltschug Grill and the Berlin-style Cafe Kranzler. Q230 rooms (190 Single/Double 20,000 - 230,000Rbl, 40 Suite 26,000 - 130,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,900Rbl. Breakfast (1,800Rbl) and VATare not include d.

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Lotte Hotel Moscow B-2, Novinsky bul.8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel. ru. This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast  of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-of-the-art state-of-the-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very  expensive spa. Due to the specially designed glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out club lounge. Q300 rooms (Deluxe 35,000 - 36,500Rbl, Superior 37,000 - 38,500Rbl, Suite 55,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,700Rbl. VAT not  included. Breakfast (1,600Rbl). PTHAR6UFL� GBKDCW hhhhh

russia.inyourpocket.com

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Holiday Inn Lesnaya Ul. Lesnaya 15, MBelorusskaya, Belorusskaya, tel.

Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated convenien tly on TverTverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott  hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible bookin g. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are qualit y buffet  lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (371 single/double 31,000 - 34,500Rbl, 15 suites 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast (1,450Rbl) and VAT not include d.

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Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora Hotel C-1, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, ww w.marriott.com/mowdt. w.marriott.com/mowdt. The presence of the Polo Club Steakhouse, an ode to a blue-blood English gentleman’s club, goes to show that the Marriott Royal Aurora is one for  those looking for refinement. Butler service comes along with the hotel’s classically styled rooms, complete with enormous beds and quality furnishings. The team of well-trained, attentive butlers show guests to their rooms (champagne in-hand) and attend to each and every aspect of their stay. Executive facilities include private meeting rooms and lounges. Q231 rooms (195 Single/double 35,000 - 40,000Rbl, 36 Suite 45,000 - 125,000Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast  (1,800Rbl) and VAT not included. PTHA6UFL�

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National, A Luxury Collection Hotel C-2, Ul. Mokhovaya 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. Rub shoulders with history here: this century old building is one of the grand old dames of the Moscow hotel scene. The location doesn’t get any better  and neither does the guest list! Previous guests include Lenin himself. The hotel, while honouring the past, is reassuringly  modern in service standards and management. management. The rooms house not only comfortable be ds and renovated bathrooms, but also original furniture and antique fittings. Q201 rooms (16 singles 15,200Rbl, 129 doubles 18,200 - 21,700Rbl, 56 suites 22,200 - 80,200Rbl). Extra Bed 1,200Rbl, VAT not  included. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included in all room cat egories. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

Moscow In Your Pocket

24

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

(+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. In classic Holiday Inn style, the restaurant and cafe are modern and inviting, the rooms are well designed and make efficient use of space. Executive floors with their additional privile ges account for two of their 11 floors and there is also a fitnes s centre for all guests. Classy black and white photos of Moscow remind you of what historical (and modern) delights are waiting for you just outside the door. Q301 rooms (17 suites 30,720Rbl, 284 single/double 16,000Rbl). Breakfast  980Rbl. PHA6UFLGKW hhhh

Kadashevskaya Hotel C-3, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 287 87 10, www. kadashevskaya.com.This friendly little upmarket hotel is a kadashevskaya.com.This great base for those wanting to escape from the sometimes soulless feel of Moscow’s larger and grander hotels. With just  35 rooms, the place feels intimate, yet there’s also enough space to feel that you are not bumping into the same people all the time. Rooms are elegantly decorate d with soft cappuccino furnishings giving warmth to the minimalist design. The deluxe rooms are worth the extra money for those hoping for  that riverside view and the rooms up in the attic may have slanted roofs but they also have a lot more flo or space. Q35 rooms (doubles 12,000 - 16,000Rbl, suites 18,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. 1,000Rbl. PTAUFLGDCW hhhh

Peking Hotel B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. ru. An iconic building which sits directly in the centre of the city just steps away from Moscow’s biggest theatres and concert halls, Peking is a winning mix of history, location and modern convenience. Located in one of the historic Stalinist  skyscrapers, the hotel maintains its attractive period features like tall ceilings and large windows which are combined with modern comfort and elegance in the hotel’s newly renovated rooms. All the hotel rooms offer noticeably more space than usual, especially some of the two-room suites, which vary  in size and design. If you are a light sleeper ask for a room  facing the court yard. Q140 rooms (40 singles 6,700Rbl, 71  doubles 8,300Rbl, 29 suites 10,400Rbl). Extra b ed 1,700Rbl. Breakfast 600Rbl. PTHAFLGKDCW hhhh

Artel Hotel C-2, Teatralny pr. 3/3, MKuznetsky

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel Varshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, w ww. azimuthotels.ru. A stellar mid-range option with much more style and verve than Moscow’s usual offerings. The clever  ex-industrial ‘loft’ design perfectly incorporates its 19th Century factory building’s historic details like vaulted ceilings, brick walls and cast-iron columns with hip lighting and m odern minimalist chic. Rooms vary in size, but all are remarkable  for their clever use of space and abundan ce of nifty gad gets and super rain showers. Numerous trams stop directly in  front headin g to the metro station which is a ten minute walk away. Q146 rooms (106 doubles 4700 - 9300Rbl, 38 Deluxe 5700 - 10800Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast  600Rbl. PTAULKW hhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. A great location in a quiet and historical part of the Pokrovka-Kitay Pokrovka-Kitay Gorod area of the city. There are dozens of great  restaurants and cafes in this part of town and the calm backstreets here have a certain romantic charm to them. The decor  of the rooms may look a little outdated for modern minimalist  tastes but everything is neat and tid y, clean and functional and the room price-size rati o is good for Moscow. A particularly pleasing aspect is the proximity to the circle line metro and the main train stations. Q65 rooms (18 singles 3,900Rbl, 45 doubles 5,900Rbl, 2 suites 6,800Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast  included, additional if requested 200Rbl. PHAKW hhh

Most, tel. (+7) 495 626 90 08, www.artelhotel.ru. Most of the guests here are artists or people who want  to live vicariously through the lives of artists - which is understandable given i ts location a top a music club. Up at  the top of the graffiti covered stairwell and past the neon lit reception desk you’ll find the rooms. Different artists were given free reign to create their own themes, meaning  every room is completely uniqu e. You You can expect anything   from a glas s bric k bath room, to a f loati ng mez zanin e bed , surround sound speakers for your ipod or films projected onto your wall. The popular café/club downstairs offers more of the same and can be a nuisance for those wanting  to sleep early or perfect if you want to stay out late and easily crawl back to your bed. Q23 rooms (23 singles 2,800 - 5,700Rbl, 22 doubles 3,300 - 6,300Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. PTAGBKW

Hostels Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Not only is the location superb, but  the atmosphere is friendly and intimate. With the addition of  double rooms Comrade is also ideal for those looking to skip staying in a dorm but also stick to a low budget. The owner, Denis, has a good grasp of what travellers need and makes sure that the communal kitchen maintains an inviting, cleanly  and positive atmosphere, id eal for enjoying a communal meal or just a friendly cup of tea. He also n ever hesitates to provide guests with sound insider city information or give in-the-know expert Russia travel advice. Q (doubles 1,900Rbl, Dorm bed 650Rbl). JNGW

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaur ants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early  reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip  for good service onl y - around ten percent is conside red fair.

Symbol key P Air conditioning 

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly 

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet 

L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant 

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly 

W Wi-Fi connection

August - September 2012

Air B n B, www.airbnb.com. This popular online company started out in California matching up people wanting to rent out their homes to guests, with travellers looking for hotel alternatives, in what can be considered to be just a more elaborate version of the traditional ‘homestay’ system. Launched in Russia in early 2012 the website already features hundreds of apartments to rent  in Moscow and across Russia, as well as private rooms. Prices can start from as little as 1,000Rbl per night for a room, or 5,000Rbl for a whole flat, stretching up to tens of thousands for the chance to rent out somebody elses luxury city centre home.

letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. Budget hotels like this are few and far between in Moscow. A  completely new building, with brand new rooms and facilities  just ten ten minutes nutes from from the train station and ashort distance distance from from the very heart of M oscow. Those concerned about their carbon  footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and functional and the ones facing north are particularly large. With the appearance and servi ce attitude of an upmarket hotel, this is a great  budget option. Q147 rooms (126 singles 3,900 - 8,900Rbl, 21  doubles 5,100 - 10,100Rbl). Extra bed (1,000Rbl). Breakfast  720Rbl. PTA6ULGKW hhh

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other  scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that  green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually   finds its way into ever ything.

Russian and Ukrainian Dacha na Pokrovke D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg.4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky  surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling  medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the kind you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special ind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik . Live music most evenings. evenings. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTAEBSW

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). PanPancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come wi th savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar  (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling  such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush(sgushonka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads

Tort Napoleon - a must for the 200th anniversary  of Borodino!

Korchma Taras Bulba C-3, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 14, MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 71 53, www. tarasbulba.ru. This popular Ukranian restaurant chain is great fun in a kitsch style. The running country theme is done up to the max, from the colourful folkloric interior to the staff members’ extravagant traditional costumes. They  serve hearty traditional Ukrainian food and the menu is very  long and wide-ranging, although you do have an option to get most dishes in small portions so you can taste a lot of  everything. There are 14 Moscow locations including one right  by the Kremlin with a nice summer terrace at ul. Mokhovaya 8, bldg.1 (metro Biblioteka im. Lenina). Q Open 09:00 - 02:00  €€. PJALGBXS

Symbol Key P Air conditioning  E Live music T Child friendly  G Non-smoking venue V Home delivery  B Outside seating 

moscow inyourpo cket com

Russian Cuisine

Our price guide is based on the average price of  a main course:  € - 0 - 4 00Rb l €€ 40 0 - 800 Rbl  €€€ 800 - 1 ,200 Rbl €€€ € 1,2 00Rb l plus

Apartments

Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPave-

Moscow In Your Pocket

Russia In Your Pocket has been teamed up with Europe’s leading online hotel agency Booking.com to offer hotel booking dire ct from our website. Over 1500 hotels in Russia are already part of Booking.com’s online reservation agency and that’s up from 200 only two years ago, so business is clearly booming. All you need to do is read through our reviews online and if you like the look of a place click on the link and you’ll be directed straight to the venue’s booking page. Then you can browse through any special deals and offers without even picking up the phone. Simple as that! Head to our site russia.inyourpocket.com to try it out for yourself.

RestauRants Mini hotels

tel. (+7) 495 933 55 44, hotel-sretenskaya.ru. Two  features immed iatel y s et the Sretenska ya h otel apart: a lush, balmy tropical garden with an informal bar and a quaint   folklore-inspired décor. The lat ter send s you ba ck to feu dal times, to a wealthy boyar’s 16th Century home. The restaurant’s stained glass windows, thick royal blue curtains and carved wooden wide-back chairs also help to create a medieval atmosphere. All rooms have air conditioning systems, desks, mini bars and satellite tvs. A sauna, fitness centre and swimming pool are found downstairs. Q38 rooms (30 single/  double 11,550 - 12,540Rbl, 8 suite 12,144 - 17,490Rbl). Extra bed 990Rbl. PTHAUFLKDCW hhhh

Booking.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

Sretenskaya A-1, Ul. Sretenka 15, MSukharevskaya,

23

A Credit cards accepted S Take away  U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking  M Nearest station W Wi-Fi connection

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally  hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based b orsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout  is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка) . Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either  cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and b eetroot.

Main dishes Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stu ffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic,  famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually  made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef  (govyadina - говядина) or pork  (svinina - свинина) . Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

August - September 2012

25

24

RestauRants

Hotels Mini hotels Artel Hotel C-2, Teatralny pr. 3/3, MKuznetsky

Sretenskaya A-1, Ul. Sretenka 15, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 55 44, hotel-sretenskaya.ru. Two  features immed iatel y s et the Sretenska ya h otel apart: a lush, balmy tropical garden with an informal bar and a quaint   folklore-inspired décor. The lat ter send s you ba ck to feu dal times, to a wealthy boyar’s 16th Century home. The restaurant’s stained glass windows, thick royal blue curtains and carved wooden wide-back chairs also help to create a medieval atmosphere. All rooms have air conditioning systems, desks, mini bars and satellite tvs. A sauna, fitness centre and swimming pool are found downstairs. Q38 rooms (30 single/  double 11,550 - 12,540Rbl, 8 suite 12,144 - 17,490Rbl). Extra bed 990Rbl. PTHAUFLKDCW hhhh

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel Varshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, w ww. azimuthotels.ru. A stellar mid-range option with much more style and verve than Moscow’s usual offerings. The clever  ex-industrial ‘loft’ design perfectly incorporates its 19th Century factory building’s historic details like vaulted ceilings, brick walls and cast-iron columns with hip lighting and m odern minimalist chic. Rooms vary in size, but all are remarkable  for their clever use of space and abundan ce of nifty gad gets and super rain showers. Numerous trams stop directly in  front headin g to the metro station which is a ten minute walk away. Q146 rooms (106 doubles 4700 - 9300Rbl, 38 Deluxe 5700 - 10800Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast  600Rbl. PTAULKW hhh Hotel Ermitage D-2, Durasovsky per.7, MKurskaya, Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitagehotel.ru. A great location in a quiet and historical part of the Pokrovka-Kitay Pokrovka-Kitay Gorod area of the city. There are dozens of great  restaurants and cafes in this part of town and the calm backstreets here have a certain romantic charm to them. The decor  of the rooms may look a little outdated for modern minimalist  tastes but everything is neat and tid y, clean and functional and the room price-size rati o is good for Moscow. A particularly pleasing aspect is the proximity to the circle line metro and the main train stations. Q65 rooms (18 singles 3,900Rbl, 45 doubles 5,900Rbl, 2 suites 6,800Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast  included, additional if requested 200Rbl. PHAKW hhh

Most, tel. (+7) 495 626 90 08, www.artelhotel.ru. Most of the guests here are artists or people who want  to live vicariously through the lives of artists - which is understandable given i ts location a top a music club. Up at  the top of the graffiti covered stairwell and past the neon lit reception desk you’ll find the rooms. Different artists were given free reign to create their own themes, meaning  every room is completely uniqu e. You You can expect anything   from a glas s bric k bath room, to a f loati ng mez zanin e bed , surround sound speakers for your ipod or films projected onto your wall. The popular café/club downstairs offers more of the same and can be a nuisance for those wanting  to sleep early or perfect if you want to stay out late and easily crawl back to your bed. Q23 rooms (23 singles 2,800 - 5,700Rbl, 22 doubles 3,300 - 6,300Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. PTAGBKW

Hostels Comrade Hostel D-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building entrance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. Not only is the location superb, but  the atmosphere is friendly and intimate. With the addition of  double rooms Comrade is also ideal for those looking to skip staying in a dorm but also stick to a low budget. The owner, Denis, has a good grasp of what travellers need and makes sure that the communal kitchen maintains an inviting, cleanly  and positive atmosphere, id eal for enjoying a communal meal or just a friendly cup of tea. He also n ever hesitates to provide guests with sound insider city information or give in-the-know expert Russia travel advice. Q (doubles 1,900Rbl, Dorm bed 650Rbl). JNGW

Air B n B, www.airbnb.com. This popular online company started out in California matching up people wanting to rent out their homes to guests, with travellers looking for hotel alternatives, in what can be considered to be just a more elaborate version of the traditional ‘homestay’ system. Launched in Russia in early 2012 the website already features hundreds of apartments to rent  in Moscow and across Russia, as well as private rooms. Prices can start from as little as 1,000Rbl per night for a room, or 5,000Rbl for a whole flat, stretching up to tens of thousands for the chance to rent out somebody elses luxury city centre home.

letskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. Budget hotels like this are few and far between in Moscow. A  completely new building, with brand new rooms and facilities  just ten ten minutes nutes from from the train station and ashort distance distance from from the very heart of M oscow. Those concerned about their carbon  footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and functional and the ones facing north are particularly large. With the appearance and servi ce attitude of an upmarket hotel, this is a great  budget option. Q147 rooms (126 singles 3,900 - 8,900Rbl, 21  doubles 5,100 - 10,100Rbl). Extra bed (1,000Rbl). Breakfast  720Rbl. PTA6ULGKW hhh

Dacha na Pokrovke D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg.4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky  surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling  medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the kind you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special ind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik . Live music most evenings. evenings. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTAEBSW

Tort Napoleon - a must for the 200th anniversary  of Borodino!

Korchma Taras Bulba C-3, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 14, MNovoskuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 71 53, www. tarasbulba.ru. This popular Ukranian restaurant chain is great fun in a kitsch style. The running country theme is done up to the max, from the colourful folkloric interior to the staff members’ extravagant traditional costumes. They  serve hearty traditional Ukrainian food and the menu is very  long and wide-ranging, although you do have an option to get most dishes in small portions so you can taste a lot of  everything. There are 14 Moscow locations including one right  by the Kremlin with a nice summer terrace at ul. Mokhovaya 8, bldg.1 (metro Biblioteka im. Lenina). Q Open 09:00 - 02:00  €€. PJALGBXS

A Credit cards accepted S Take away  U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking  M Nearest station W Wi-Fi connection

moscow.inyourpocket.com

RestauRants Street Café Culture Almost every single restaurant and café which we have chosen to feature this issue has some kind of open terrace, courtyard area or open-air street side seating. Summer in Moscow is all about making the most of  the sunshine and being outside! There are also certain parts of the city which are closed to cars and where the al fresco cafe culture is in full swing. Once the sun is out the car-free Kamergersky pereulok (C-3) is filled to the brim with street side cafes and restaurants and is bustling with drinkers and diners at all times of day. Take your pick from Chinese, sushi, pasta and pizza, Russian cuisine, French bakeries and coffee all just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Ulitsa Arbat (B-2) is another pedestrianised street lined with street  cafes from all the major chains suc h as Costa Coffee and Wendy’s as well as their many Russian counterparts. Round the corner on the significantly less pretty ulitsa pretty  ulitsa Novy Arbat (B-2) there are also dozens of street ca fes and restaurants to choose from. The garden boulevards are also a popular place for sitting outside and watching  the world go by - particularly the area along  Nikitsky bulvar (B-2) close to the Arbatskaya metro station and around the Chistoprudny bulvar (D-1/2).

tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by ele gantly  dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white tableclothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out  on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fi sh for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef  tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list  goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or  Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mu shrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABSW

Mari Vanna B-1, Spiridonyevsky per. 10a, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that  you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest  would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni  and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but  unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just  plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family  pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVGS

Moscow In Your Pocket

Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally  hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based b orsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout  is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка) . Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either  cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and b eetroot.

Main dishes Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stu ffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic,  famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually  made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef  (govyadina - говядина) or pork  (svinina - свинина) . Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.

August - September 2012

RestauRants Na Melnitse (At the Mill) D-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya 24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 88 90, www.namelnitse.ru. Let the door swing shut behind you: You’ve stepped into a Russian village scene, with a working  water mill, a carp pond and peasants as waiters. The food is strictly Russian: meat, game, fish, stuffed Russian pies, mushroom dishes, scrumptious mors  (a bitter berry drink) and mayonnaise salads. Everything is made according to the best traditions of ancient Rus meaning you get generous portions and very rich sauces. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULBS

Pavilion B-1, Bolshoy Patriarshy per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 51 10, www.restsindikat.com. The white tuxedoed waiters, palm trees, period pavilion building, crisp tablecloths and various old family photos that decorate this large dining room overlooking the beautiful Patriarch’s ponds all combine to give off an elegant period feel worthy of  an Agatha Christie novel and which the restaurant describes as ‘Soviet 1950s’. The menu certainly looks Soviet retro in design, but thankfully the food is all in the best traditions of rich pre-Soviet kitchens. The salads here are particularly  good and should win over Russian salad skepti cs. Make sure you don’t fill up too much on the huge moreish main dishes and save some appetite for one of their popular desserts. In winter you can watch as the locals skate on the frozen pond and in summer relax on the large waterside terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEBSW

Zhiguli B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)

Lucien C-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya,

Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). PanPancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come wi th savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar  (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling  such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgush(sgushonka - сгущенка).

Soups and salads

Symbol Key

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other  scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that  green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually   finds its way into ever ything.

Russian and Ukrainian

P Air conditioning  E Live music T Child friendly  G Non-smoking venue V Home delivery  B Outside seating 

Moscow In Your Pocket

Russian Cuisine

Our price guide is based on the average price of  a main course:  € - 0 - 4 00Rb l €€ 40 0 - 800 Rbl  €€€ 800 - 1 ,200 Rbl €€€ € 1,2 00Rb l plus

Apartments

Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPave-

26

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaur ants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early  reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip  for good service onl y - around ten percent is conside red fair.

495 691 41 44, www.zhiguli.net. A Soviet retro themed Russian beer hall with branding from the local b eer producers Zhiguli. Downstairs is the cheap fast food canteen style area which has a nice nice view of the pedestrians scurryin g along Novy  Arbat. Further on is the restaurant proper where they crank up the old Soviet hits in the evenings and weekends for the oldies wanting a boogie. The food is dec ent Russian fare, the evening  atmosphere is fun and the Zhiguli beer matches it all per fectly. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€.

Caucasian/Central Asian Chaihona No.1 C-1, Hermitage Sad, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, ww w.chaihona.com. Pleasing  and fresh, this is a cosy little beach hut where you are surrounded by embroidered wall hangings. Perfect for lounging, either on the downstairs couches or the upstairs mezzanine with their powerful sound system playing longe music in the background. Plaited bread with sulguni cheese and spicy  marinated chicken with peppers and fresh tangy herbs came out in no time at all. The inspired tapestry portrait of Prime Minister Putin, sadly, is not for sale. 14 other locations in the city including ul. Sadovo-Samotechnaya 20, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy bulvar) and Gorky Park. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00.  €€. PTAILVBSW

Chito-Ra D-2, Ul. Kazakova 10/2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 265 78 76. When there is an empty vodka bottle rolling  around the floor which no one has picked up, you know what  kind of place you’re in. It is filled with in-the-know locals and expatriated Georgians who are the key to the happy, hearty  atmosphere: they don’t even need the menu to order.Shashlik  (shish kebabs) come only in pork, or maybe you want it in a lavash wrap. However, when you spend all your time grilling just  one kind of meat, it ought to be good. And i t is. The pork has been licked by the firey flame s and is coated in a crispy fried seasoning. The lobio (red bean dish) is fresh, spicy and riddled with creamy  walnuts and pomegranate pomegranate seeds and word is these are the best  khinkali (giant dumplings) in Moscow. The restaurant is located near the Gogol Theatre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PNSB moscow inyourpo cket com

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Dzhon Dzholi B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginzaproject. ru. Dzhon dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated casualness of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow - and this time they even go so far as to install a huge stone oven. The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik  of course top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi  (sweetcorn  fritters) an d chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

Elardgy B-3, Gagarinsky per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.ru. This sophisticated and elegant concept promises home-style Georgian food. Looking through the menu you’ll find some unusual dishes made with offal and various other animal bits plus the usual khacaupuri  (cheese bread), shashliks  (kebabs) and spiced vegetable starters. The food is hearty enough without swimming in grease although why the drinks cost  almost as much as the meat is baffling. Nevertheless, the real reason to come here is to soak up the atmosphere, which is akin to being on a posh southern country estate, complete with romantic covered terraces and a large private courtyard and garden with ice-skating in the winter and rocking chairs and tree swings in the summer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€.

TAEBSW

Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 10, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 04 44, www.nasreddinhiva.ru. Khodzha what? Allow us please to translate it for you - welcome to ‘Nasreddin the Wise in the city  of Khiva‘. Khiva is of course a silk road gem and Nasreddin a popular wiseman and humorist from medieval legend. The restaurant is set out as an elaborate remake of the silk road city, complete with minarets, little hideaways behind grand carved doors and birds in cages. Sounds tacky, but actually  it is very invi ting. The food on offer is an excellent excellent int roduction to Central Asian cuisine, from the delicious pies and flamed meat, to the exotic plov (pilau) for which the region is famous. Some of the more complex dishes take a while to make, but  they are usually worth the wait. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW

Madame Galife C -1, Prospekt Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www.madamgalife.ru. Madame, do you have a table near the window? If you are lucky enough to get your  way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of  Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in. Q Open 12:00-05:00, Sat, Sun 14:00-05:00. €€. PTAVEBS

To read about hundreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out  our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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26

RestauRants Street Café Culture Almost every single restaurant and café which we have chosen to feature this issue has some kind of open terrace, courtyard area or open-air street side seating. Summer in Moscow is all about making the most of  the sunshine and being outside! There are also certain parts of the city which are closed to cars and where the al fresco cafe culture is in full swing. Once the sun is out the car-free Kamergersky pereulok (C-3) is filled to the brim with street side cafes and restaurants and is bustling with drinkers and diners at all times of day. Take your pick from Chinese, sushi, pasta and pizza, Russian cuisine, French bakeries and coffee all just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Ulitsa Arbat (B-2) is another pedestrianised street lined with street  cafes from all the major chains suc h as Costa Coffee and Wendy’s as well as their many Russian counterparts. Round the corner on the significantly less pretty ulitsa pretty  ulitsa Novy Arbat (B-2) there are also dozens of street ca fes and restaurants to choose from. The garden boulevards are also a popular place for sitting outside and watching  the world go by - particularly the area along  Nikitsky bulvar (B-2) close to the Arbatskaya metro station and around the Chistoprudny bulvar (D-1/2).

RestauRants Na Melnitse (At the Mill) D-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya 24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 88 90, www.namelnitse.ru. Let the door swing shut behind you: You’ve stepped into a Russian village scene, with a working  water mill, a carp pond and peasants as waiters. The food is strictly Russian: meat, game, fish, stuffed Russian pies, mushroom dishes, scrumptious mors  (a bitter berry drink) and mayonnaise salads. Everything is made according to the best traditions of ancient Rus meaning you get generous portions and very rich sauces. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULBS

Pavilion B-1, Bolshoy Patriarshy per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 51 10, www.restsindikat.com. The white tuxedoed waiters, palm trees, period pavilion building, crisp tablecloths and various old family photos that decorate this large dining room overlooking the beautiful Patriarch’s ponds all combine to give off an elegant period feel worthy of  an Agatha Christie novel and which the restaurant describes as ‘Soviet 1950s’. The menu certainly looks Soviet retro in design, but thankfully the food is all in the best traditions of rich pre-Soviet kitchens. The salads here are particularly  good and should win over Russian salad skepti cs. Make sure you don’t fill up too much on the huge moreish main dishes and save some appetite for one of their popular desserts. In winter you can watch as the locals skate on the frozen pond and in summer relax on the large waterside terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEBSW

Zhiguli B-2, Ul. Novy Arbat 11/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)

Lucien C-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by ele gantly  dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white tableclothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out  on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fi sh for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef  tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list  goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or  Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mu shrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABSW

Mari Vanna B-1, Spiridonyevsky per. 10a, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that  you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest  would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni  and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but  unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just  plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family  pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVGS

Moscow In Your Pocket

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495 691 41 44, www.zhiguli.net. A Soviet retro themed Russian beer hall with branding from the local b eer producers Zhiguli. Downstairs is the cheap fast food canteen style area which has a nice nice view of the pedestrians scurryin g along Novy  Arbat. Further on is the restaurant proper where they crank up the old Soviet hits in the evenings and weekends for the oldies wanting a boogie. The food is dec ent Russian fare, the evening  atmosphere is fun and the Zhiguli beer matches it all per fectly. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€.

Caucasian/Central Asian Chaihona No.1 C-1, Hermitage Sad, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, ww w.chaihona.com. Pleasing  and fresh, this is a cosy little beach hut where you are surrounded by embroidered wall hangings. Perfect for lounging, either on the downstairs couches or the upstairs mezzanine with their powerful sound system playing longe music in the background. Plaited bread with sulguni cheese and spicy  marinated chicken with peppers and fresh tangy herbs came out in no time at all. The inspired tapestry portrait of Prime Minister Putin, sadly, is not for sale. 14 other locations in the city including ul. Sadovo-Samotechnaya 20, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy bulvar) and Gorky Park. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00.  €€. PTAILVBSW

Chito-Ra D-2, Ul. Kazakova 10/2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 265 78 76. When there is an empty vodka bottle rolling  around the floor which no one has picked up, you know what  kind of place you’re in. It is filled with in-the-know locals and expatriated Georgians who are the key to the happy, hearty  atmosphere: they don’t even need the menu to order.Shashlik  (shish kebabs) come only in pork, or maybe you want it in a lavash wrap. However, when you spend all your time grilling just  one kind of meat, it ought to be good. And i t is. The pork has been licked by the firey flame s and is coated in a crispy fried seasoning. The lobio (red bean dish) is fresh, spicy and riddled with creamy  walnuts and pomegranate pomegranate seeds and word is these are the best  khinkali (giant dumplings) in Moscow. The restaurant is located near the Gogol Theatre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PNSB moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Dzhon Dzholi B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginzaproject. ru. Dzhon dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated casualness of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow - and this time they even go so far as to install a huge stone oven. The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik  of course top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi  (sweetcorn  fritters) an d chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

Elardgy B-3, Gagarinsky per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.ru. This sophisticated and elegant concept promises home-style Georgian food. Looking through the menu you’ll find some unusual dishes made with offal and various other animal bits plus the usual khacaupuri  (cheese bread), shashliks  (kebabs) and spiced vegetable starters. The food is hearty enough without swimming in grease although why the drinks cost  almost as much as the meat is baffling. Nevertheless, the real reason to come here is to soak up the atmosphere, which is akin to being on a posh southern country estate, complete with romantic covered terraces and a large private courtyard and garden with ice-skating in the winter and rocking chairs and tree swings in the summer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €€.

TAEBSW

Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 10, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 04 44, www.nasreddinhiva.ru. Khodzha what? Allow us please to translate it for you - welcome to ‘Nasreddin the Wise in the city  of Khiva‘. Khiva is of course a silk road gem and Nasreddin a popular wiseman and humorist from medieval legend. The restaurant is set out as an elaborate remake of the silk road city, complete with minarets, little hideaways behind grand carved doors and birds in cages. Sounds tacky, but actually  it is very invi ting. The food on offer is an excellent excellent int roduction to Central Asian cuisine, from the delicious pies and flamed meat, to the exotic plov (pilau) for which the region is famous. Some of the more complex dishes take a while to make, but  they are usually worth the wait. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW

Madame Galife C -1, Prospekt Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www.madamgalife.ru. Madame, do you have a table near the window? If you are lucky enough to get your  way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of  Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in. Q Open 12:00-05:00, Sat, Sun 14:00-05:00. €€. PTAVEBS

To read about hundreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out  our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

RestauRants Sightse eing Snacks On the tourist trail and looking for a bite to eat b etween sights? Here are some ideas for somewhere to fill up.

The Kremlin/Red Square Directly on Red Square the GUM department store is an obvious place to search for sustenance. Budget dine rs should look out for the Stolovaya 57 canteen on the top  floor while i f you have money to b urn you can en joy Red Square’s only street café Bosco café Bosco.. For fast food there’s also the food court of the Okhotny Ryad shopping centre (opposite (opposite the Aleksandrovsky Gardens) while if  you venture a little further away from the square to the north there’s plenty of choice of places on Kamegersky pereulok and along Bolshaya along Bolshaya Dmitrovka ulitsa. ulitsa.

Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, ww w.sakhli.ru.Sakhli w.sakhli.ru. Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family  recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent  lobio kakhetinsky  (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali  (giant  cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. The lovely ethnic themed summer terrace is hidden in the back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW

In the area immediately next to the cathedral and the adjacent Pushkin Fine Arts museum there’s not a vast  amount of dining options aside from the per fectly reasonable Italian restaurants Akademiya and Il Patio and the Khleb and Co. Co. bakery to choose from. If you have time another option can be to walk over the bridge  from the cathedra l and rest up at one of the fashionabl e restaurants and bars in the Red October Factory area such as the excellent Bontempi or Strelka Bar.

Tretyakov Galleries If you are around the area of the ‘old’ Tretyakov (Lavrushinsky pereulok) look out for the pleasant café Alderban café Alderban,, or head out towards Pyatnitskaya ulitsa where there’s a Russian self-service restaurant Grabli restaurant Grabli,, as well as a branch of the popular Ukrainian chain Taras Bulba, Bulba, a low-priced Caucasian restaurant Shesh restaurant  Shesh Besh and a handful of Irish pubs all right next to the metro. Over at  the ‘new’ Tretyakov on Krymsky val there’s a pleasant  self-service café in the neighbouring Central House of  Artists, while Gorky Park on the other side of the street  is bursting with snack shacks and restaurants.

Novodevichy convent Out at the Novodevichy convent there are a few convenient places to stop off on your way back to or from the metro. Turning directly to your right as you exit the Sportivnaya metro (at the Luzhniki stadium exit) a few metres down a small alley there’s a small café and bar  called Spektor with a reasonable menu of international hits. Over by the monastery there is also a lovely café-ba r  called Golubka with a trendy interior and imaginative menu. Golubka also has a delicatessen in the back if  you would like to grab something fres h to enjoy on the go.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Asian Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky  prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following ng of   faithful In dian expats. I t is tastefull y dec orated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they  also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW

Druzhba B-1, Ul. Novoslobodskaya 4, MNovoslobods-

American and Latin American Corner Burger (CBBG76) B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 76, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 83 98, www.cornerburger.ru. Possibly the only American joint in town not running a full on diner theme, but that doesn’t mean there’s anything lacking in the menu. Corner Burger focuses on the obvious, which unusually come in an English muffin or  German pretzel (we recommend the muffin). The meat comes serves medium to rare and is definitely noticeabl y higher quality  than usual. Vegetarians also get their own veg gie burger, while sweet tooths will be delighted to see that the outstanding cake company next door provides the desserts. All round corner  burger has a classy New York feel, feel, heightene d by the motown soundtrack and dim minimalist interior.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTABSW

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

August - September 2012

RestauRants Sakhli С-1, Bolshoy Karetny per.6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy

Hungry Duck Bar & Grill D-1, Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 8/2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 782 50 65, www.thehungryduck.ru. Once the proud owner of the title ‘world’s wildest bar’, before it was closed down in the late 1990s, the Hungry Duck has returned in a completely  new guise as an American style bar and grill. The new Duck  is set in a three storey mansion on the Garden Ring with a large central hall based around a huge round bar as well as upper floors with rooms for watching sports. The menu is full of all-American classic s - huge juicy ‘go nuts’ burgers, steaks, tex-mex and the like, with lighter pasta dishes added for nonAmerican tastes - no one goes hungry here as the portions are giant. At night the party kicks off with DJs playing pop and dance music and happy hours are a permanent fixture during the week. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW Starlite Diner C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly  American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Russian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the other worldly home-away-from-home experience. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees  from the pot. A merican diners are now de rigeur in Moscow but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five 24hour venues with the original being the giant silver truck in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on Stastnoy  bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALBSW

To read about h undreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out  our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow inyourpo cket com

27

kaya, tel. (+7) 499 973 12 34, www.drugba.ru. This place is wildly popular with the local Chinese community (always a good sign) and packed every day. Service is swift (let’s hope that’s because it was a wok and not a microwave…) and friendly. The portions are huge and if there is something  specifically Chinese that you want such as a hot pot or spicy  egg noodle soups, they can probably whip something up for  you. Indeed most of what you get here tastes exciting and authenti c - must be all that MSG. The layout of the main room can make it feel a bit claustrophobic and smokey when really  busy. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTNS

Maharaja D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1, bldg.1 (entrance from Starosadsky per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, ww w.maharaja.ru. w.maharaja.ru. Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and b elieve us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAS

Roni C-1, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seatin g has a casual  feel to it, but th e chande liers, low li ghting an d house mu sic remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt  this kitchen really knows what it is doing. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €€. PASW

Beer Restaurants Durdin D-7, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 56, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 52 00, www.durdin.ru. Beer  hall Durdin has five original home brews on tap, and happily  they’re available in a taster of five small glasses for the price of a regular 0.5L glass. Served with  grenki  (deep fried b read wit h garlic), this i s the per fect star t to any be er  drinking adventure. Those watching their cholestrol better  stick with salad. The sausage specials are delicious and the cabbage and potato garnishes are spicy and colorful. If you do order a large platter, be warned that they will take some time to assemble - in fact anything you order takes a while to arrive, so be tactical. You can also order beer by the keg up to 20L and also be er to take away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTAESW

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Taste of Japan Nobody can quite say when or how it started but in recent  years Russians have gone crazy ab out Japanese cuisine - and in particular sushi. Being somewhat ubiquitous in Moscow now it can be difficult to find authentic Japanese food. The following places are amongst the better  restaurants specialising in Japanese food. Aozora Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, aozzora.com. You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan you can’t really go back to eating it  anywhere else ? Well what about when you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi - must be a good sign right? Well we will admit Aozora is located in a large hotel, but neverthel ess. The interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey and the menu doesn’t disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVSW

MEGU B-2, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining  circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply  the premier  Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to  find out what Japanese Japanese servic e standards and fine dining  are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki  (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot  stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t  even get us started on the fish! The discreet at mosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget. Q Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, 14:00 22:30. €€€€. PTAUW Oconomy B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 27/4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 12 43, www.oconomy. ru. This simple and cheap little café has the ambition of  promoting another of Japan’s staple foods to a city that  seemingly loves Japanese cuisine only for its sushi rolls. Oconomy specialises in okonomiyaki , a quick dish often referred to as ‘Japanese pizza’ which mainly consists of  cabbage, dough, ginger and green onions served on a hot  pan. It comes with various fillings ‘as you like it’ (or as they  say in Japanese okonomi ) and is touted as an extremely  healthy and balanced meal. There are around ten filling  combos with meat, fish and vegetarian options and as well as okonomiyaki  they also serve soups, salads and soba . QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PNG ZeNQ C-2, Tretyakov Plaza shopping galleries (1st floor), Ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 641 32 02, www.aozzora.com. Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls ls and sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and rice options to choose from. The business lunch here is great value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in to meals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAVW

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RestauRants Sightse eing Snacks On the tourist trail and looking for a bite to eat b etween sights? Here are some ideas for somewhere to fill up.

The Kremlin/Red Square Directly on Red Square the GUM department store is an obvious place to search for sustenance. Budget dine rs should look out for the Stolovaya 57 canteen on the top  floor while i f you have money to b urn you can en joy Red Square’s only street café Bosco café Bosco.. For fast food there’s also the food court of the Okhotny Ryad shopping centre (opposite (opposite the Aleksandrovsky Gardens) while if  you venture a little further away from the square to the north there’s plenty of choice of places on Kamegersky pereulok and along Bolshaya along Bolshaya Dmitrovka ulitsa. ulitsa.

RestauRants Sakhli С-1, Bolshoy Karetny per.6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, ww w.sakhli.ru.Sakhli w.sakhli.ru. Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family  recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent  lobio kakhetinsky  (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali  (giant  cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. The lovely ethnic themed summer terrace is hidden in the back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW

In the area immediately next to the cathedral and the adjacent Pushkin Fine Arts museum there’s not a vast  amount of dining options aside from the per fectly reasonable Italian restaurants Akademiya and Il Patio and the Khleb and Co. Co. bakery to choose from. If you have time another option can be to walk over the bridge  from the cathedra l and rest up at one of the fashionabl e restaurants and bars in the Red October Factory area such as the excellent Bontempi or Strelka Bar.

Tretyakov Galleries If you are around the area of the ‘old’ Tretyakov (Lavrushinsky pereulok) look out for the pleasant café Alderban café Alderban,, or head out towards Pyatnitskaya ulitsa where there’s a Russian self-service restaurant Grabli restaurant Grabli,, as well as a branch of the popular Ukrainian chain Taras Bulba, Bulba, a low-priced Caucasian restaurant Shesh restaurant  Shesh Besh and a handful of Irish pubs all right next to the metro. Over at  the ‘new’ Tretyakov on Krymsky val there’s a pleasant  self-service café in the neighbouring Central House of  Artists, while Gorky Park on the other side of the street  is bursting with snack shacks and restaurants.

Novodevichy convent Out at the Novodevichy convent there are a few convenient places to stop off on your way back to or from the metro. Turning directly to your right as you exit the Sportivnaya metro (at the Luzhniki stadium exit) a few metres down a small alley there’s a small café and bar  called Spektor with a reasonable menu of international hits. Over by the monastery there is also a lovely café-ba r  called Golubka with a trendy interior and imaginative menu. Golubka also has a delicatessen in the back if  you would like to grab something fres h to enjoy on the go.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky  prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following ng of   faithful In dian expats. I t is tastefull y dec orated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they  also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW

Druzhba B-1, Ul. Novoslobodskaya 4, MNovoslobods-

American and Latin American Corner Burger (CBBG76) B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 76, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 83 98, www.cornerburger.ru. Possibly the only American joint in town not running a full on diner theme, but that doesn’t mean there’s anything lacking in the menu. Corner Burger focuses on the obvious, which unusually come in an English muffin or  German pretzel (we recommend the muffin). The meat comes serves medium to rare and is definitely noticeabl y higher quality  than usual. Vegetarians also get their own veg gie burger, while sweet tooths will be delighted to see that the outstanding cake company next door provides the desserts. All round corner  burger has a classy New York feel, feel, heightene d by the motown soundtrack and dim minimalist interior.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PTABSW

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

Asian

Hungry Duck Bar & Grill D-1, Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 8/2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 782 50 65, www.thehungryduck.ru. Once the proud owner of the title ‘world’s wildest bar’, before it was closed down in the late 1990s, the Hungry Duck has returned in a completely  new guise as an American style bar and grill. The new Duck  is set in a three storey mansion on the Garden Ring with a large central hall based around a huge round bar as well as upper floors with rooms for watching sports. The menu is full of all-American classic s - huge juicy ‘go nuts’ burgers, steaks, tex-mex and the like, with lighter pasta dishes added for nonAmerican tastes - no one goes hungry here as the portions are giant. At night the party kicks off with DJs playing pop and dance music and happy hours are a permanent fixture during the week. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW Starlite Diner C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly  American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Russian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the other worldly home-away-from-home experience. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees  from the pot. A merican diners are now de rigeur in Moscow but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five 24hour venues with the original being the giant silver truck in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on Stastnoy  bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALBSW

To read about h undreds more cafes and restaurants in Moscow and keep up to date with all our latest listings, check out  our website moscow.inyourpocket.com

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kaya, tel. (+7) 499 973 12 34, www.drugba.ru. This place is wildly popular with the local Chinese community (always a good sign) and packed every day. Service is swift (let’s hope that’s because it was a wok and not a microwave…) and friendly. The portions are huge and if there is something  specifically Chinese that you want such as a hot pot or spicy  egg noodle soups, they can probably whip something up for  you. Indeed most of what you get here tastes exciting and authenti c - must be all that MSG. The layout of the main room can make it feel a bit claustrophobic and smokey when really  busy. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTNS

Maharaja D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1, bldg.1 (entrance from Starosadsky per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, ww w.maharaja.ru. w.maharaja.ru. Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and b elieve us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAS

Roni C-1, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seatin g has a casual  feel to it, but th e chande liers, low li ghting an d house mu sic remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt  this kitchen really knows what it is doing. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €€. PASW

Beer Restaurants Durdin D-7, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 56, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 52 00, www.durdin.ru. Beer  hall Durdin has five original home brews on tap, and happily  they’re available in a taster of five small glasses for the price of a regular 0.5L glass. Served with  grenki  (deep fried b read wit h garlic), this i s the per fect star t to any be er  drinking adventure. Those watching their cholestrol better  stick with salad. The sausage specials are delicious and the cabbage and potato garnishes are spicy and colorful. If you do order a large platter, be warned that they will take some time to assemble - in fact anything you order takes a while to arrive, so be tactical. You can also order beer by the keg up to 20L and also be er to take away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTAESW

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RestauRants Bakery Bliss

var, tel. (+7) 495 608 15 19, en-tzvetnoy.gbsbar.ru. A  traditional traditional Czech style beer restaurant with excellent brews and mighty Czech food to wash it down with. The huge platters of sausages are always a good choice while the Czech duck with apples and the ubiquitous sauerkraut is one of  many extremely filling meaty main dishes. Alongside the Gambrinus home brews there’s also German classics such as Hofbrau and Paulaner to be enjoyed and it’s all available by the litre as well as in the usual 0.5 litre tankards. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. A

Bratya Karavaevy B-2, Tverskoy bul. 20, bldg. 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 628 84 44, ww w.kara-

Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries

vaevi.ru. The little Brothers Karavaevy Karavaevy bakery and cafe can get a little overcrowded at lunchtimes, but there’s good reason why locals flock here to eat; the food is  fresh, cheap an d made in a flash. You can cho ose from simple baked goods like pies and sandwiches etc, or opt   for some of th eir tasty fresh salads or something m ore substantial like ratatouille or a hearty soup which they can heat up for you. The paying system is all straight forward,  just h ead to the c ounter an d point out wha t you want, the server will put it together for you while the cashier  counts it all up. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTGSW

Aldebaran C-3, Bolshoy Tolmachyevsky per.4, bldg.1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 62 68, www. acafe.ru. Upscale cafe with an impressive menu, Alderban is a great choice for coffee or a full meal if you happen to be in the area. The art nouveau décor, large windows and excellent salads mean it’s a very popular place for a light lunch  for local office workers and at midday it can get qui te hectic . Aldebaran’s location and tranquil atmosphere also make it  ideal for loading up b efore or after a trip to the near by Tretyakov gallery. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTABSW

Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru.

Coffee Pyu D-1/2, Chistoprudny bul. 9, MChistye

This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long  wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls per fect   for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tar tines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including  this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by lo cals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00-24:00.  €. PJAVBSW

Paul B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 560 49 94, ww w.ginzaproject.ru. This little café is the first in Moscow from the French bakery  and patisserie chain Paul. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the small café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light lunch bites such as quiche or the irresistible croque madam. On the sweet  side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites, we especially love the strawberr y tarts and custard pies, and by and large everything is as mouthwatering as it looks. Paul also now has a second outlet at ul. Arbat  54/2, bldg. 1 (metro Smolenskaya). Q Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

Taste of Japan Nobody can quite say when or how it started but in recent  years Russians have gone crazy ab out Japanese cuisine - and in particular sushi. Being somewhat ubiquitous in Moscow now it can be difficult to find authentic Japanese food. The following places are amongst the better  restaurants specialising in Japanese food. Aozora Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, aozzora.com. You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan you can’t really go back to eating it  anywhere else ? Well what about when you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi - must be a good sign right? Well we will admit Aozora is located in a large hotel, but neverthel ess. The interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey and the menu doesn’t disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVSW

MEGU B-2, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining  circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply  the premier  Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to  find out what Japanese Japanese servic e standards and fine dining  are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki  (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot  stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t  even get us started on the fish! The discreet at mosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget. Q Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, 14:00 22:30. €€€€. PTAUW Oconomy B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 27/4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 12 43, www.oconomy. ru. This simple and cheap little café has the ambition of  promoting another of Japan’s staple foods to a city that  seemingly loves Japanese cuisine only for its sushi rolls. Oconomy specialises in okonomiyaki , a quick dish often referred to as ‘Japanese pizza’ which mainly consists of  cabbage, dough, ginger and green onions served on a hot  pan. It comes with various fillings ‘as you like it’ (or as they  say in Japanese okonomi ) and is touted as an extremely  healthy and balanced meal. There are around ten filling  combos with meat, fish and vegetarian options and as well as okonomiyaki  they also serve soups, salads and soba . QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PNG ZeNQ C-2, Tretyakov Plaza shopping galleries (1st floor), Ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 641 32 02, www.aozzora.com. Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls ls and sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and rice options to choose from. The business lunch here is great value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in to meals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PAVW

August - September 2012

RestauRants Gambrinus C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 20/1, MTsvetnoy Bul-

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83. One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at  the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so hip and laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t  even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAW

Red Espresso Bar D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24/7, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 790 78 11, www.redespressobar.com. It’s hard to miss this unusual red building  and its distinctive logo The service here is speedy - which in this town suits us just fine. Order at the bar, tell them your  name and they’ll holler you down when it’s ready. The huge  fresh sand wiches are a bargain and the coffee beats m ost  of the other big name competitors hands down. Also at ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya). Belorusskaya). Q Open 24hrs. PAUBSW

Tsiferblat D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 12 (entrance in the yard), MKitayGorod, www.clockfaces.ru. www.clockfaces.ru.A A café turned common room, Clockface works on a unique concept whereby you pay   for the time youspend here and everything else (provided they  have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock  and your name and time is wri tten on a board, when you lea ve you pay for each minute you stayed - 2Rbl per minute for the 1st hour, and 1Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself  to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of  board games, chess and back gammon sets are available and there’s also free wifi and large tables for working or studying. No alcohol and no smoking. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. GW

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European Cafe Pushkin B-1, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant, is extrem ely famous and popular with local busines s men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without  being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first   floor there i s a sophisticated 24-h our café and a restauran t  called the Librar y Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy  Bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€€€. PTJAILVEBW

Kvartira 44 B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 22/2 (enter from Khlinovskogo Tupik, under the archway),MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 691 75 03, www.kv44.ru. Wine bar, piano bar or a homing b eacon for the city’s underground? Shelves stocked with books and the green and black interior  create a comforting darkness. Not as lively as an artistic Parisian bar; here the main action comes from the piano player hitting the keys with gusto. Seclude d enough to make it  ideal for a few hours of relaxing wine-fuelled conversation, the  food is a reliable mix of pastas, salads and French influenced meat dishes. Also have a nice courtyard locati on at ul. Malaya Yakimanka 24/8 (metro Polyanka). Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat until last guest. €. PTAEW

Prostye Vyeshy B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 14/2, bldg. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 34 94, www. gastroteka.ru. Prosty vyeshy - simple things - is the motto by which this great little wine bar runs. The low vaulted brick  walls are painted nted white and only the o dd bottle of wine on display here and there provides any kind of decoration. The excellent food - including fantastic sandwiches, luscious salads, risottos, homemade sausages, tapas and other  goodies - is all sparklingly fresh, organic (for the most part) and beautifully presented. They have an excellent wine cellar  and in warm weather their small cour tyard terrace makes for a more visually exciting and sunny place to sit and sip. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €. PASBW

Legendary sandwiches for 199 rubles 54/2 bât 1 rue Arbat, Moscou +7 (495) 783-16-38, +7 (495) 783-16-39

23/12 b ât. 1 rue Tverskaya, Moscou +7 (495) 560 49 48, +7 (495) 560 49 94

Shatyor D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12a, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 916 90 90, www.nostalgie.ru. This huge tented restaurant jutting out into the Chistye Prudy pond, is a great place to spend the day snacking on grilled meats and knocking back fresh iced drinks. Wherever Wherever you decide to sit, whether in the main tented area (with open glass walls) or on the verandas along the sides, you are guaranteed a cushioned chair and a fresh breeze. The menu is filled with classic summer fair like kebabs and li ght pastas as well some heavier Caucasian offerings. Generally the food standard is good although there are perhaps too few wait staff to keep up with the restaurant’s high capacity. QOpen 24hrs. €€.

PTABSW

Tapa de Comida C-1, Ul. Trubnaya 20/2, bldg. 3, M Trubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.tapadecomida.ru. Viva l’espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and  feels Spanish inside and out, comple te with beau tiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy  locals sipping ng wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open in Moscow and is still probably the best. The price to size ratio on the tapas dishes is nothing like on the Iberian peninsula - but that’s just  typical Moscow, you get used to it. Q Open 24 hours. €€€. PTAIEBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

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August - September 2012

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RestauRants Bakery Bliss

RestauRants Gambrinus C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 20/1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 608 15 19, en-tzvetnoy.gbsbar.ru. A  traditional traditional Czech style beer restaurant with excellent brews and mighty Czech food to wash it down with. The huge platters of sausages are always a good choice while the Czech duck with apples and the ubiquitous sauerkraut is one of  many extremely filling meaty main dishes. Alongside the Gambrinus home brews there’s also German classics such as Hofbrau and Paulaner to be enjoyed and it’s all available by the litre as well as in the usual 0.5 litre tankards. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. A

Bratya Karavaevy B-2, Tverskoy bul. 20, bldg. 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 628 84 44, ww w.kara-

Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries

vaevi.ru. The little Brothers Karavaevy Karavaevy bakery and cafe can get a little overcrowded at lunchtimes, but there’s good reason why locals flock here to eat; the food is  fresh, cheap an d made in a flash. You can cho ose from simple baked goods like pies and sandwiches etc, or opt   for some of th eir tasty fresh salads or something m ore substantial like ratatouille or a hearty soup which they can heat up for you. The paying system is all straight forward,  just h ead to the c ounter an d point out wha t you want, the server will put it together for you while the cashier  counts it all up. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTGSW

Aldebaran C-3, Bolshoy Tolmachyevsky per.4, bldg.1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 62 68, www. acafe.ru. Upscale cafe with an impressive menu, Alderban is a great choice for coffee or a full meal if you happen to be in the area. The art nouveau décor, large windows and excellent salads mean it’s a very popular place for a light lunch  for local office workers and at midday it can get qui te hectic . Aldebaran’s location and tranquil atmosphere also make it  ideal for loading up b efore or after a trip to the near by Tretyakov gallery. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.  €€. PTABSW

Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru.

Coffee Pyu D-1/2, Chistoprudny bul. 9, MChistye

This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long  wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls per fect   for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tar tines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including  this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by lo cals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00-24:00.  €. PJAVBSW

Paul B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 560 49 94, ww w.ginzaproject.ru. This little café is the first in Moscow from the French bakery  and patisserie chain Paul. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the small café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light lunch bites such as quiche or the irresistible croque madam. On the sweet  side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites, we especially love the strawberr y tarts and custard pies, and by and large everything is as mouthwatering as it looks. Paul also now has a second outlet at ul. Arbat  54/2, bldg. 1 (metro Smolenskaya). Q Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €. PASW

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83. One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at  the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so hip and laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t  even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAW

Red Espresso Bar D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24/7, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 790 78 11, www.redespressobar.com. It’s hard to miss this unusual red building  and its distinctive logo The service here is speedy - which in this town suits us just fine. Order at the bar, tell them your  name and they’ll holler you down when it’s ready. The huge  fresh sand wiches are a bargain and the coffee beats m ost  of the other big name competitors hands down. Also at ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya). Belorusskaya). Q Open 24hrs. PAUBSW

Tsiferblat D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 12 (entrance in the yard), MKitayGorod, www.clockfaces.ru. www.clockfaces.ru.A A café turned common room, Clockface works on a unique concept whereby you pay   for the time youspend here and everything else (provided they  have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock  and your name and time is wri tten on a board, when you lea ve you pay for each minute you stayed - 2Rbl per minute for the 1st hour, and 1Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself  to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of  board games, chess and back gammon sets are available and there’s also free wifi and large tables for working or studying. No alcohol and no smoking. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. GW

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European Cafe Pushkin B-1, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant, is extrem ely famous and popular with local busines s men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without  being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first   floor there i s a sophisticated 24-h our café and a restauran t  called the Librar y Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy  Bulvar. Q Open 24hrs. €€€€. PTJAILVEBW

Kvartira 44 B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 22/2 (enter from Khlinovskogo Tupik, under the archway),MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 691 75 03, www.kv44.ru. Wine bar, piano bar or a homing b eacon for the city’s underground? Shelves stocked with books and the green and black interior  create a comforting darkness. Not as lively as an artistic Parisian bar; here the main action comes from the piano player hitting the keys with gusto. Seclude d enough to make it  ideal for a few hours of relaxing wine-fuelled conversation, the  food is a reliable mix of pastas, salads and French influenced meat dishes. Also have a nice courtyard locati on at ul. Malaya Yakimanka 24/8 (metro Polyanka). Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat until last guest. €. PTAEW

Prostye Vyeshy B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 14/2, bldg. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 34 94, www. gastroteka.ru. Prosty vyeshy - simple things - is the motto by which this great little wine bar runs. The low vaulted brick  walls are painted nted white and only the o dd bottle of wine on display here and there provides any kind of decoration. The excellent food - including fantastic sandwiches, luscious salads, risottos, homemade sausages, tapas and other  goodies - is all sparklingly fresh, organic (for the most part) and beautifully presented. They have an excellent wine cellar  and in warm weather their small cour tyard terrace makes for a more visually exciting and sunny place to sit and sip. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €. PASBW

Legendary sandwiches for 199 rubles 54/2 bât 1 rue Arbat, Moscou +7 (495) 783-16-38, +7 (495) 783-16-39

23/12 b ât. 1 rue Tverskaya, Moscou +7 (495) 560 49 48, +7 (495) 560 49 94

Shatyor D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12a, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 916 90 90, www.nostalgie.ru. This huge tented restaurant jutting out into the Chistye Prudy pond, is a great place to spend the day snacking on grilled meats and knocking back fresh iced drinks. Wherever Wherever you decide to sit, whether in the main tented area (with open glass walls) or on the verandas along the sides, you are guaranteed a cushioned chair and a fresh breeze. The menu is filled with classic summer fair like kebabs and li ght pastas as well some heavier Caucasian offerings. Generally the food standard is good although there are perhaps too few wait staff to keep up with the restaurant’s high capacity. QOpen 24hrs. €€.

PTABSW

Tapa de Comida C-1, Ul. Trubnaya 20/2, bldg. 3, M Trubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.tapadecomida.ru. Viva l’espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and  feels Spanish inside and out, comple te with beau tiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy  locals sipping ng wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open in Moscow and is still probably the best. The price to size ratio on the tapas dishes is nothing like on the Iberian peninsula - but that’s just  typical Moscow, you get used to it. Q Open 24 hours. €€€. PTAIEBSW

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RestauRants Roofs With a View If you aren’t afraid of heights and like to gaze down over  the expanse of this buzzing me tropolis from up high, then you are in luck, Moscow has dozens of great panoramic view terraces. One of the most famous is the excellent  Indian restaurant  Darbars on the top of the Sputnik  hotel which is popular with the Indian expat community. The nearby upscale Sky Lounge restaurant serving  top international cuisine, has Moscow’s highest open terrace, some 22 floors above the city. Another top sky  high dining location is White Rabbit, Rabbit, which has excellent   fine din ing and an ope n roof with panor amic views ove r  the city centre from the 15th floor. Finally, although it’s only a mere eight floors up, the swanky rooftop cocktail and sushi bar O2 bar O2 Lounge in the Ritz Carlton Hotel, has excellent views of the Kremlin and Red Square and is also good for celebrity watching.

Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, M Leninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €.

PTALVSW O2 Lounge C-2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel, ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, ww w. ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJAULBW Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www. skylounge.ru.Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat  13:00-01:00. €€€. PTALBW White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

RestauRants Veranda 32.05 C-1, Hermitage Garden, Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 905 703 32 05, www. veranda3205.ru.Hidden veranda3205.ru. Hidden away in the rear of the Hermitage Garden, this large café-bar-restaurant is a great little wood cabin hideaway where you can while away the hours with gallons of excellent homemade lemonad e and pots of exotic tea. The decor is pure relaxation - mismatched reclaimed furniture painted in pastel colours, a hammock and big sofas hidden away in the back - and the staff are so effortlessly laidback  and charming, you really feel encouraged to kick back and make yourself yourself at home. The menu is an eclectic mi x of filling  soups, simple salads and sandwiches, with spring rolls, grilled dorado and even breakfast favourites like salmon and eggs thrown in. QOpen 11:00 until last guest. €. PNBW

French Bistrot Canaille B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 11, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 499 391 01 78, www.bistrotcanaille.com. Settled in beneath the trees on a tranquil little back street, this French bistrot gets top marks for atmosphere. Decorated in a humble yet effective style, all red chequered table cloths and rough green wood panelling, it’s not difficult to imagine finding  a similar looking place in many a French village. Run by a French chef, Canaille does its absolute best to recreate the authentic French café scene and succeed s with full marks - so much so that it has be come a favourite with the French expat community. community. There is great table wine for low prices, as well as mouthwatering  duck, chicken, goat’s cheese, croque madame...the list goes on and on as do the hours you can happily spend here. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW

Cafe Michel A-2, Ul. Krasnaya Presnya 13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 50 44, www.cafemichel.ru. This classy French restaurant is worth seeking out, whether you are after a venue for discussing business or romancing someone special. The interior is imperially inspired with classic palatial corniced ceilings and soft lighting, but is kept modern with bare brick  walls and old movies projected on the walls. The menu is brief bu t  delectable and the emphasis is put on doing the French classics like onion soup and Parisian salad well, as well as providing great  seasonal offerings. It’s worth holding out for dessert to try their   famously  famously addictive addictive macaroons macaroons.. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW

Jean Jacques Rousseau B-2, Nikitsky bul. 12, MAr-

Food from Former Republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet  past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from  former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of  Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilledkebabs) which appear on every menu - foo d from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of  the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri  (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi  (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali  (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio  (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek  plov  (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat  soup) and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). grape-leaves).

Moscow In Your Pocket

August - September 2012

batskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 38 86/+74956903886,  jan-jak.com.This  jan-jak.com. This popular French bistro boasts a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare. Waitresses in their  black waistcoats bustle around the red and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and millions of wine bottles in on-site storage. They do breakfast, lunch and keep going  on into the night with carafes of house wine. Water from the cooler is free of charge, be sure to ask them to bring a bottle to your table. Also at Tsvetnoy bul. 24, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy  Bulvar) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2 (metro TagansTaganskaya). Q Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESBW

Carre Blanc C-1, Ul. Seleznevskaya 19/2, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 44 03, www.carreblanc.ru. Excellent French restaurant spread over many floors and rooms of a period Moscow house. French diplomats and visiting stars have all been spotted here (there’s plent y of secluded areas to hide away in) and the wine list is long and full bodied. On the menu you can expect to see luxury items such as fois gras, truffles and escargots as well as simpler French classics. The best part  of the culinary experience here is trying the seasonal menus, oysters in autumn, asparagus in the spring, at Carre Blanc they  don’t let any great seasonal products pass by without giving  them a fancy twist. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABW

moscow inyourpo cket com

Park Life

International Akademiya B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15/17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 44 27, www.academiya.ru. Just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Church of Jesus Christ the Saviour, this trendy glass box of a cafe/restaurant  is understandably packed almost any time of day. They cater  to the current fashions of Moscow offering mostly Italian and Japanese cuisine. The pizzas are large and come with many  imaginative toppings, toppings, while the pasta and sushi although not as filling, is good quality fresh stuff. Akademiya can be a great place to stop off after sightseeing, although the staff  can be quite slow and forgetful once the place fills up. Has seven other locations around the city, including one on Kamergersky per. just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PABCW

Delicatessen C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www. newdeli.ru.In newdeli.ru.In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the b est and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for   finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s  favourite things. Ceviche , ch ocolate puddings, homemad e pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say  the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret  is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PASW Dodo C-1, Ul. Petrovka 21/ 2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 903 105 10 10, www.dodoproject.com. A stylishly  compiled room looking out onto an immaculate yard whose gorgeous tiled floor and blonde wood tabl es are well matched to the pretty green aproned staff and the odd bit of greenery. Here laidback, welcoming and a little bit sophisticated is the all-encompassing vibe. The food is a spot on mix of simple European favourites made with fresh ingredients and the occasional splash of the exotic and with the menu reaching  little more than a page the kitchen have little to struggle over. Lovely terrace in the yard. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

Il Vicolo C-1, Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, ww w. marriott.com/hotels/travel/mowdt.Tucked marriott.com/hotels/travel/mowdt. Tucked in to a quiet  spot on the cobbled Stoleshknikov pereulok and shaded by  many trees, tranquil Il Vicolo feels miles away from the centre of Moscow despite being just a short walk from the Kremlin. The outdoor terrace is a great spot for an upscale lunch with some refreshing homemade lemonade on the side and is also a relaxing venue to wind down in on a warm evening. The menu is enticing and very well made. Popular winners include the Asian style chicken with lemongrass, seafood cous cous, an accomplished and authentic schnitzel and the seafood bouillabaisse as well as the lighter club sandwiches and salads. They also open for breakfast. QOpen 08:00 02:00. €€€€. ALBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow’s parks are good places for seeking out relaxing  summer cafes and bars - but only if you arrive during the week. Come to the park on the weekend when the whole of Moscow has descended to enjoy the sun and you could be queuing for hours for a bite to eat! If you are heading  to Moscow’s most popular park, Gorky Park, Park, there’s a wealth of places to choose from including the Italian Mercato, trendy snack bar Kiosk, colourful Uzbek restaurant  Chaikhona no. 1, the Thai pavilion style Lebedinoye Ozero (which also opens as a bar at night) or the wooden be ach with a fancy bar and restaurant attached called Olivkoye Plazh down next to the river. Meanwhile in Moscow’s many other parks which haven’t yet met the hipster  invasion the situation is less chaotic and certainly a bit  more aimed at the common man who needs only excellent barbequed kebabs and c old beer.Kolomenskoye beer. Kolomenskoye park and Sokolnikiare Sokolniki are particularly noteworthy for their  excellent shashlik barbeque restaurants which are much more down-to-earth than what’s on offer in fashionable Gorky Park – and accordingly cheaper.

Cookery Classes Taste of Russia D-2, Kazarmenny per.4, bldg. 3, MKurskaya, tel. +7 (906) 717 82 90, (+7) 495 916 37 08, www.tasterussia.ru. So you’ve sampled the blini and the borsch and now you want to take these tastes back home with you. This is where Taste of Russia’s cooking school comes in handy. You don’t need to be Jamie Oliver to find yourself cooking up delectable treats here, the guidance from the charming professional chefs is expert and the ingredients provided are top notch and even the biggest cookery novi ces will find it’s all very easy  to follow. As well as teaching you great insider tips and tricks, the whole experience is generally a lot of fun and by the end of i t you’ll probably probably find you just made yourself  the best Russian food you’ve tasted yet in Russia. More information about the different kind of classes they run can be found at their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

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RestauRants Roofs With a View If you aren’t afraid of heights and like to gaze down over  the expanse of this buzzing me tropolis from up high, then you are in luck, Moscow has dozens of great panoramic view terraces. One of the most famous is the excellent  Indian restaurant  Darbars on the top of the Sputnik  hotel which is popular with the Indian expat community. The nearby upscale Sky Lounge restaurant serving  top international cuisine, has Moscow’s highest open terrace, some 22 floors above the city. Another top sky  high dining location is White Rabbit, Rabbit, which has excellent   fine din ing and an ope n roof with panor amic views ove r  the city centre from the 15th floor. Finally, although it’s only a mere eight floors up, the swanky rooftop cocktail and sushi bar O2 bar O2 Lounge in the Ritz Carlton Hotel, has excellent views of the Kremlin and Red Square and is also good for celebrity watching.

Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, M Leninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €.

PTALVSW O2 Lounge C-2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel, ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, ww w. ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJAULBW Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www. skylounge.ru.Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat  13:00-01:00. €€€. PTALBW White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

RestauRants Veranda 32.05 C-1, Hermitage Garden, Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 905 703 32 05, www. veranda3205.ru.Hidden veranda3205.ru. Hidden away in the rear of the Hermitage Garden, this large café-bar-restaurant is a great little wood cabin hideaway where you can while away the hours with gallons of excellent homemade lemonad e and pots of exotic tea. The decor is pure relaxation - mismatched reclaimed furniture painted in pastel colours, a hammock and big sofas hidden away in the back - and the staff are so effortlessly laidback  and charming, you really feel encouraged to kick back and make yourself yourself at home. The menu is an eclectic mi x of filling  soups, simple salads and sandwiches, with spring rolls, grilled dorado and even breakfast favourites like salmon and eggs thrown in. QOpen 11:00 until last guest. €. PNBW

French Bistrot Canaille B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Bronnaya 11, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 499 391 01 78, www.bistrotcanaille.com. Settled in beneath the trees on a tranquil little back street, this French bistrot gets top marks for atmosphere. Decorated in a humble yet effective style, all red chequered table cloths and rough green wood panelling, it’s not difficult to imagine finding  a similar looking place in many a French village. Run by a French chef, Canaille does its absolute best to recreate the authentic French café scene and succeed s with full marks - so much so that it has be come a favourite with the French expat community. community. There is great table wine for low prices, as well as mouthwatering  duck, chicken, goat’s cheese, croque madame...the list goes on and on as do the hours you can happily spend here. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW

Cafe Michel A-2, Ul. Krasnaya Presnya 13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 50 44, www.cafemichel.ru. This classy French restaurant is worth seeking out, whether you are after a venue for discussing business or romancing someone special. The interior is imperially inspired with classic palatial corniced ceilings and soft lighting, but is kept modern with bare brick  walls and old movies projected on the walls. The menu is brief bu t  delectable and the emphasis is put on doing the French classics like onion soup and Parisian salad well, as well as providing great  seasonal offerings. It’s worth holding out for dessert to try their   famously  famously addictive addictive macaroons macaroons.. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW

Jean Jacques Rousseau B-2, Nikitsky bul. 12, MAr-

Food from Former Republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet  past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from  former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of  Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilledkebabs) which appear on every menu - foo d from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of  the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri  (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi  (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali  (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio  (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek  plov  (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat  soup) and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). grape-leaves).

batskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 38 86/+74956903886,  jan-jak.com.This  jan-jak.com. This popular French bistro boasts a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare. Waitresses in their  black waistcoats bustle around the red and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and millions of wine bottles in on-site storage. They do breakfast, lunch and keep going  on into the night with carafes of house wine. Water from the cooler is free of charge, be sure to ask them to bring a bottle to your table. Also at Tsvetnoy bul. 24, bldg. 1 (metro Tsvetnoy  Bulvar) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2 (metro TagansTaganskaya). Q Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESBW

Carre Blanc C-1, Ul. Seleznevskaya 19/2, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 44 03, www.carreblanc.ru. Excellent French restaurant spread over many floors and rooms of a period Moscow house. French diplomats and visiting stars have all been spotted here (there’s plent y of secluded areas to hide away in) and the wine list is long and full bodied. On the menu you can expect to see luxury items such as fois gras, truffles and escargots as well as simpler French classics. The best part  of the culinary experience here is trying the seasonal menus, oysters in autumn, asparagus in the spring, at Carre Blanc they  don’t let any great seasonal products pass by without giving  them a fancy twist. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABW

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RestauRants Kalina Cafe B-3, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropot-

Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky

kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe. ru. The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding  their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by  popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, la te night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night  drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.  €€€. PALEW

prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertl y. Many of the dishes are truly delightful such as the blue tuna  fillet an d the portions are more generous than you will se e almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures. There’s also an oyster bar and one floor  above is the White Room which is available to hire for private parties. Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat 13:0001:00. €€€. PTALBW

Minselkhoz C-1/2, Berlin House, ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 19 69, w ww.novikovgroup.ru.There’s group.ru.There’s a growing trend in Moscow for eating locall y  produced products and Minselkhoz is one of its flag-waving  leaders. As you enter the restaurant, which is situated in the atrium of an upscale business centre, you are greeted by the deli counter where you can buy fruits, olives, hom emade jams, cold cuts and the like to take away for a high price. Over in the restaurant proper, the menu offers a large mix of simple Russian and European classics as well as more complex creations. We would advise opting for the simpler dishes which allow the organic ingredients more chance to shine. They have great lunch deals, although given the restaurant’s location it  is understandably busy during business lunch hours. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW

White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmosc www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. ow.ru.Yes, Yes, it’s cliché to say, but   finding your way up to to this magical place really does feel a bit  like Alice chasing that rabbit down the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from the right side entrance (next  to the massive building site). This is the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lif ts before you finally  pop out at the atrium at the top with a glorious view over the city centre and i ts various skyscrapers. Upscale White Rabbit  does serve some truly outstanding and memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint. The menu is imaginati ve and filled with treasures too long to list here, s o just take your  pick and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

Ragout B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495

Italian

662 64 58, caferagout.ru. Be sure to make reservations here as Ragout is fast becoming one of the most popular  places in town. A smart-casual ‘city-cafe’ atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought  out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it’s still impossible to choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board. Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PGAVBSW

tel. (+7) 495 699 73 59, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy  and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but  the cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of  taste and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine fans and hence has a strong following of faithful customers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.  €€. PTALSW

Bocconcino C-1, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya,

Bontempi restaurant C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab. 12, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 13 87, ww w.bontempirest.ru. A great looking conversion of one of the smaller buildings of  this former factory, Bontempi is simple with a stylish t wist that  is definitive for this happening area of the city and has many   fans - includin g us. Aiming for a personal touch the staff make almost as much effort to explain the menu as the chef does to execute it, while the small tables are tucked in just close enough to give the place a satisfyingly communal feel. The pasta and bread is handmade, dail y specials offer the best of  the season’s ingredients and classic dishes like the tiramisu and tortellini hold their fabulous own against new creations such as anchovy and pesto biscotti. Q Open 12.00-24.00  €€. PTAVBSW

Il Patio C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 13a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 766 00 20, www.ilpatio.ru. This is one of  the more atmospheric locations of the Il Patio chain, probably because of its stunning location near the Church of the Saviour. Don’t worry the good value pizza and pasta on offer  here is just the same as in the other outlets in this popular  pizza chain. Have 50 more locations. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €. PTALEBSW Moscow

In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

Park Life

International Akademiya B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15/17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 44 27, www.academiya.ru. Just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Church of Jesus Christ the Saviour, this trendy glass box of a cafe/restaurant  is understandably packed almost any time of day. They cater  to the current fashions of Moscow offering mostly Italian and Japanese cuisine. The pizzas are large and come with many  imaginative toppings, toppings, while the pasta and sushi although not as filling, is good quality fresh stuff. Akademiya can be a great place to stop off after sightseeing, although the staff  can be quite slow and forgetful once the place fills up. Has seven other locations around the city, including one on Kamergersky per. just 5 minutes walk from Red Square. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PABCW

Delicatessen C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www. newdeli.ru.In newdeli.ru.In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the b est and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for   finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s  favourite things. Ceviche , ch ocolate puddings, homemad e pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say  the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret  is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PASW Dodo C-1, Ul. Petrovka 21/ 2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 903 105 10 10, www.dodoproject.com. A stylishly  compiled room looking out onto an immaculate yard whose gorgeous tiled floor and blonde wood tabl es are well matched to the pretty green aproned staff and the odd bit of greenery. Here laidback, welcoming and a little bit sophisticated is the all-encompassing vibe. The food is a spot on mix of simple European favourites made with fresh ingredients and the occasional splash of the exotic and with the menu reaching  little more than a page the kitchen have little to struggle over. Lovely terrace in the yard. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. €€. PTABSW

Il Vicolo C-1, Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, ww w. marriott.com/hotels/travel/mowdt.Tucked marriott.com/hotels/travel/mowdt. Tucked in to a quiet  spot on the cobbled Stoleshknikov pereulok and shaded by  many trees, tranquil Il Vicolo feels miles away from the centre of Moscow despite being just a short walk from the Kremlin. The outdoor terrace is a great spot for an upscale lunch with some refreshing homemade lemonade on the side and is also a relaxing venue to wind down in on a warm evening. The menu is enticing and very well made. Popular winners include the Asian style chicken with lemongrass, seafood cous cous, an accomplished and authentic schnitzel and the seafood bouillabaisse as well as the lighter club sandwiches and salads. They also open for breakfast. QOpen 08:00 02:00. €€€€. ALBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow’s parks are good places for seeking out relaxing  summer cafes and bars - but only if you arrive during the week. Come to the park on the weekend when the whole of Moscow has descended to enjoy the sun and you could be queuing for hours for a bite to eat! If you are heading  to Moscow’s most popular park, Gorky Park, Park, there’s a wealth of places to choose from including the Italian Mercato, trendy snack bar Kiosk, colourful Uzbek restaurant  Chaikhona no. 1, the Thai pavilion style Lebedinoye Ozero (which also opens as a bar at night) or the wooden be ach with a fancy bar and restaurant attached called Olivkoye Plazh down next to the river. Meanwhile in Moscow’s many other parks which haven’t yet met the hipster  invasion the situation is less chaotic and certainly a bit  more aimed at the common man who needs only excellent barbequed kebabs and c old beer.Kolomenskoye beer. Kolomenskoye park and Sokolnikiare Sokolniki are particularly noteworthy for their  excellent shashlik barbeque restaurants which are much more down-to-earth than what’s on offer in fashionable Gorky Park – and accordingly cheaper.

Cookery Classes Taste of Russia D-2, Kazarmenny per.4, bldg. 3, MKurskaya, tel. +7 (906) 717 82 90, (+7) 495 916 37 08, www.tasterussia.ru. So you’ve sampled the blini and the borsch and now you want to take these tastes back home with you. This is where Taste of Russia’s cooking school comes in handy. You don’t need to be Jamie Oliver to find yourself cooking up delectable treats here, the guidance from the charming professional chefs is expert and the ingredients provided are top notch and even the biggest cookery novi ces will find it’s all very easy  to follow. As well as teaching you great insider tips and tricks, the whole experience is generally a lot of fun and by the end of i t you’ll probably probably find you just made yourself  the best Russian food you’ve tasted yet in Russia. More information about the different kind of classes they run can be found at their website. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

August - September 2012

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RestauRants Kalina Cafe B-3, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropot-

Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky

kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe. ru. The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding  their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by  popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, la te night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night  drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.  €€€. PALEW

prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertl y. Many of the dishes are truly delightful such as the blue tuna  fillet an d the portions are more generous than you will se e almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures. There’s also an oyster bar and one floor  above is the White Room which is available to hire for private parties. Q Open Sun-Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Thu-Sat 13:0001:00. €€€. PTALBW

Minselkhoz C-1/2, Berlin House, ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 19 69, w ww.novikovgroup.ru.There’s group.ru.There’s a growing trend in Moscow for eating locall y  produced products and Minselkhoz is one of its flag-waving  leaders. As you enter the restaurant, which is situated in the atrium of an upscale business centre, you are greeted by the deli counter where you can buy fruits, olives, hom emade jams, cold cuts and the like to take away for a high price. Over in the restaurant proper, the menu offers a large mix of simple Russian and European classics as well as more complex creations. We would advise opting for the simpler dishes which allow the organic ingredients more chance to shine. They have great lunch deals, although given the restaurant’s location it  is understandably busy during business lunch hours. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASBW

White Rabbit B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmosc www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. ow.ru.Yes, Yes, it’s cliché to say, but   finding your way up to to this magical place really does feel a bit  like Alice chasing that rabbit down the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from the right side entrance (next  to the massive building site). This is the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lif ts before you finally  pop out at the atrium at the top with a glorious view over the city centre and i ts various skyscrapers. Upscale White Rabbit  does serve some truly outstanding and memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint. The menu is imaginati ve and filled with treasures too long to list here, s o just take your  pick and enjoy. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PTALBW

Ragout B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495

Italian

662 64 58, caferagout.ru. Be sure to make reservations here as Ragout is fast becoming one of the most popular  places in town. A smart-casual ‘city-cafe’ atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought  out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it’s still impossible to choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board. Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PGAVBSW

tel. (+7) 495 699 73 59, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy  and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but  the cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of  taste and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine fans and hence has a strong following of faithful customers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.  €€. PTALSW

Bocconcino C-1, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya,

Bontempi restaurant C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab. 12, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 13 87, ww w.bontempirest.ru. A great looking conversion of one of the smaller buildings of  this former factory, Bontempi is simple with a stylish t wist that  is definitive for this happening area of the city and has many   fans - includin g us. Aiming for a personal touch the staff make almost as much effort to explain the menu as the chef does to execute it, while the small tables are tucked in just close enough to give the place a satisfyingly communal feel. The pasta and bread is handmade, dail y specials offer the best of  the season’s ingredients and classic dishes like the tiramisu and tortellini hold their fabulous own against new creations such as anchovy and pesto biscotti. Q Open 12.00-24.00  €€. PTAVBSW

Il Patio C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 13a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 766 00 20, www.ilpatio.ru. This is one of  the more atmospheric locations of the Il Patio chain, probably because of its stunning location near the Church of the Saviour. Don’t worry the good value pizza and pasta on offer  here is just the same as in the other outlets in this popular  pizza chain. Have 50 more locations. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €. PTALEBSW Moscow

36

In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

RestauRants

RestauRants North African/Middle Eastern

Steak Houses

Bardak - Cafe po Turetsky D-2, Ul. Maroseika 6/8, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 88 78, www.

Beeftro C-1, Ul. Tsvetnoy bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar,

bardak-cafe.ru.A bardak-cafe.ru.A real Turkish cafe run by real Turkish people, has to be a good sign for the menu and vibe. The staff are astoundingly friendl y and quick and make a big effort with their  English and surprisingly surprisingly enough the Arabic music is about  as kitsch as it gets here. The menu excels in a wide choice of  koftes  (meatballs) and various types of pastries stuffed with spinach, Turkish cheese, mince meat and the like. They  of course have real Turkish coffee and make sure you save your appetite for dessert, you won’t be disappointe d. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12.00 - 24.00. €. PAW

Cafe Sindbad B-2, Nikitsky bul.14, MArbatskaya, tel.

Italianets C-1, Ul. Samotechnaya 13, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 688 64 01, www.italian.ru. It’s a fair  old walk from the metro and there’s little in the way of tourist  sights, but the journey is worth it if you are hoping to stumble upon some really top quality authentic Italian cuisine. The head chef and owner Giuseppe has brought with him plenty  of expertise from his native Puglia - the fish is particularly  good - and believes in mixing up classic Italian ingredients in new ways that actually make sense (no silly foams and Asian effects here). His dishes are perfectly balanced and in authentic style, generously portioned. Family friendly but also with more intimate spaces for romantic diners it’s no wonder they  are always busy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABW

Mestiere Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 22 88, www.mestiere.ru. Classic Italian food is served in typical style at Mestiere over  in the Sputnik hotel. The terracotta walls, odd bit of greenery  and pictures of old Italy are all in their place and of course, the soundtrack has a bit of Eros Ramazotti in it too.The pasta dishes are a good option here and generall y pass the al dente test, while the In Your Pocket team also likes the Italian sweets on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. AVW

Montalto B-1, Ul.Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 34 87, ww w.montalto.ru. The brains behind this pizza restaurant stick to the golden rules of cooking - do few things but do them very well. Although there are actuall y also one or two meat dishes and salad s on the menu, Montalto is all abou t the fantastic artisan pizzas. The dough is fresh and yeasty and much thicker than the usual crisp thin Roman style pizzas usually found in Moscow and you can watch it being flung in the air by the chefs in one end of the room. The toppings are simple combinations given clever twists, such as Parma ham with some gruyere in the cheese mix or homemade spicy sausage with helpings of  caramelized onions. The atmosphere is akin to a trendy New York loft, all clean lines, dark woods, exposed brick and slick  lighting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

Pizza Express C-1/2, Ul. Tverskaya 17, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 70 03, www.pizzaexpress.ru.com. You You may be familiar with the concept of this international pizza/  pasta chain, if not it goes something like this. Take one historic building, put in some huge windows so the light floods in, whitewash the walls and fill the place with simple furniture and a few nice palms. Finally Finally serve low price bu t high quality  pizza and pasta dishes in plump portions an d hey presto! - you have created a very successful restaurant. The pizzas are great, the staff are on the ball and unsurprisingly it is busy  all hours. Q Open 24hrs. €. PANSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

(+7) 495 691 71 15. Authentic through and throu gh, this tiny  unassuming Lebanese cafe is consistently filled with happy  guests smoking water pipes and enjoying Lebanese tea with pomegranates and pine nuts or the excellent Arabic coffee. Tuck yourself in under one of the awnings covered with fake grape vines and dig into some great meze before following it  up with some delicious spicy kofte or falafel. The waitresses are some of the friendliest you will find in Moscow and the Arabic music and aromatic smells from the kitchen only further add to the cosy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €.

Quick and cheap Cool Kulinariya B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 24/1, bldg. 6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 64 45, www.coolkulinariya.ru.A nariya.ru. A kind of posh canteen with comfy sofa-like chairs, helpful staff and a wide choice of low priced self-service food. The offerings tend to be Russian cuisine centric, with lots of mayonaise slathered salads and meaty soups although you will also find Chinese cuisine and Caucasian dishes such as dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and lobio (spiced bean stew). Everything is also available to take away. Make sure to sample some pastries or pancakes from the nice bakery  section. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €.

tel. (+7) 495 545 43 53, www.beef tro.ru.Aiming tro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty  goodness, Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look  is bright, clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, ef ficient and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef  is corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their  excellent burger and the selection of sauces are all winners. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet  similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALSBW

russia.inyourpocket.com

Vegetarian Avocado D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19. Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of  teas on the menu, and the food is delicious.Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for  those looking for something more conventional.Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who have a tendency to be a bit dippy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW

Jagannath C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. Delightful vegetarian cafe with a touch of hippiness. Depending  on the time you can choose to take a dish from the self-ser vice counter in the cafe or opt to go through to the restaurant. Either promises a relaxing repast. You’ll have the choice of  many vegetables cooked all different ways under the sun, and there are tasty soups, salads and even soy  shashlik (shish kebabs). There’s also a very well-stocked vegetarian shop selling all the unusual favourites such as mate tea and rye flour  pasta. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGBSW

PTAGSW

Muu Muu B-2, Ul. Arbat 45/24, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 13 64, www.cafemumu.ru. A popular chain of cheerful and cheap cow themed self-service eateries. Dotted around the city it’s a good place to “graze” away an hour or two. The one on Old Arbat street has a fake life size cow outside, presenting you with yet another photo opportunity for everyone back home to laugh at. The focus is on Russian food and yes it is stodgy. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. €.

PTJAGBSW

Restoranny Dom Ts Tsentralny entralny B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 1 (Kudrinksaya skyscraper), MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 255 47 44, www.restauranthouse.ru. Easily Moscow’s grandest self-service canteen and worth visiting just to look  at it. Situated in the ground floor of one of the Stalin ‘Seven Sisters’ skyscrapers this huge canteen has retained all of  the building’s original period detailing, including grand marble pillars, ceilings that reach to the sky and massive chandeli ers and stained glass panels. Popular due to its reliability and atmosphere, the place fills up but still has space for hundreds. The food is standard as good as it looks fare - you are getting  what you pay for, and by the time you get to the counter i t may  be a little cold. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

russia.inyourpocket.com moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

37

36

RestauRants

RestauRants North African/Middle Eastern

Steak Houses

Bardak - Cafe po Turetsky D-2, Ul. Maroseika 6/8, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 88 78, www.

Beeftro C-1, Ul. Tsvetnoy bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar,

bardak-cafe.ru.A bardak-cafe.ru.A real Turkish cafe run by real Turkish people, has to be a good sign for the menu and vibe. The staff are astoundingly friendl y and quick and make a big effort with their  English and surprisingly surprisingly enough the Arabic music is about  as kitsch as it gets here. The menu excels in a wide choice of  koftes  (meatballs) and various types of pastries stuffed with spinach, Turkish cheese, mince meat and the like. They  of course have real Turkish coffee and make sure you save your appetite for dessert, you won’t be disappointe d. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12.00 - 24.00. €. PAW

Cafe Sindbad B-2, Nikitsky bul.14, MArbatskaya, tel.

Italianets C-1, Ul. Samotechnaya 13, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 688 64 01, www.italian.ru. It’s a fair  old walk from the metro and there’s little in the way of tourist  sights, but the journey is worth it if you are hoping to stumble upon some really top quality authentic Italian cuisine. The head chef and owner Giuseppe has brought with him plenty  of expertise from his native Puglia - the fish is particularly  good - and believes in mixing up classic Italian ingredients in new ways that actually make sense (no silly foams and Asian effects here). His dishes are perfectly balanced and in authentic style, generously portioned. Family friendly but also with more intimate spaces for romantic diners it’s no wonder they  are always busy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTABW

Mestiere Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 22 88, www.mestiere.ru. Classic Italian food is served in typical style at Mestiere over  in the Sputnik hotel. The terracotta walls, odd bit of greenery  and pictures of old Italy are all in their place and of course, the soundtrack has a bit of Eros Ramazotti in it too.The pasta dishes are a good option here and generall y pass the al dente test, while the In Your Pocket team also likes the Italian sweets on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. AVW

Montalto B-1, Ul.Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 34 87, ww w.montalto.ru. The brains behind this pizza restaurant stick to the golden rules of cooking - do few things but do them very well. Although there are actuall y also one or two meat dishes and salad s on the menu, Montalto is all abou t the fantastic artisan pizzas. The dough is fresh and yeasty and much thicker than the usual crisp thin Roman style pizzas usually found in Moscow and you can watch it being flung in the air by the chefs in one end of the room. The toppings are simple combinations given clever twists, such as Parma ham with some gruyere in the cheese mix or homemade spicy sausage with helpings of  caramelized onions. The atmosphere is akin to a trendy New York loft, all clean lines, dark woods, exposed brick and slick  lighting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

Pizza Express C-1/2, Ul. Tverskaya 17, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 70 03, www.pizzaexpress.ru.com. You You may be familiar with the concept of this international pizza/  pasta chain, if not it goes something like this. Take one historic building, put in some huge windows so the light floods in, whitewash the walls and fill the place with simple furniture and a few nice palms. Finally Finally serve low price bu t high quality  pizza and pasta dishes in plump portions an d hey presto! - you have created a very successful restaurant. The pizzas are great, the staff are on the ball and unsurprisingly it is busy  all hours. Q Open 24hrs. €. PANSW

(+7) 495 691 71 15. Authentic through and throu gh, this tiny  unassuming Lebanese cafe is consistently filled with happy  guests smoking water pipes and enjoying Lebanese tea with pomegranates and pine nuts or the excellent Arabic coffee. Tuck yourself in under one of the awnings covered with fake grape vines and dig into some great meze before following it  up with some delicious spicy kofte or falafel. The waitresses are some of the friendliest you will find in Moscow and the Arabic music and aromatic smells from the kitchen only further add to the cosy atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €.

Quick and cheap Cool Kulinariya B-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 24/1, bldg. 6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 64 45, www.coolkulinariya.ru.A nariya.ru. A kind of posh canteen with comfy sofa-like chairs, helpful staff and a wide choice of low priced self-service food. The offerings tend to be Russian cuisine centric, with lots of mayonaise slathered salads and meaty soups although you will also find Chinese cuisine and Caucasian dishes such as dolma (stuffed vine leaves) and lobio (spiced bean stew). Everything is also available to take away. Make sure to sample some pastries or pancakes from the nice bakery  section. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €.

Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-1, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet  similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALSBW

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Bars and Cafe Bars Bar 1920 C-2, Ul. Nikolskaya 10/2, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 13 68, www.bar1920.ru. A speakeasy themed bar bursting with old Al Capone gangster  Americana. The walls are plastered with pictures of the notorious bootleggers of the prohibition period while the staff are trussed up in braces and trilby hats. The music rests in the modern era with the latest pop dance hits  from Wes tern s tars mi xed in w ith a few spor adic class ics  from y ester year. Whisk y is th e ob vious drink choi ce h ere and won’t set you back much, while penny pinchers should watch out for the special offers on ‘contraband’ liqors. QOpen 24hrs. PAXW

Bar Strelka C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but  is still notorious for the weekend entrance lineup where they  suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular  DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs and you may be lucky enough to be treated to a spontaneous unannounced concert. In the summer the roof terrace (which functions as more of a bar/  restaurant) restaurant) with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PALBW

Bar Volna E-2, ArtPlay Design Centre, Nizhny Syromyatnicheskaya ul. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 903 562 61 30, www.artplay.ru. The trendy former factory art  centre Artplay just stepped up its cool factor again with the addition of this chilled out little roof terrace bar. With trees popping up out of the deck, simple furniture and all wood surroundings it really feels very much like being up in a tree house and chilled reggae and bossa nova music  fur ther add s to the very anti-u rban vibe . Dr inks are lowpriced (there’s an art school nearby) and the clientele are remarkably unpretentious. unpretentious. Volna also o ccasionally  screen sports and films on a huge screen stretched over  a neighbouring building. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  11:00 - 02:00. PW

Moscow In Your Pocket

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19. Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of  teas on the menu, and the food is delicious.Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for  those looking for something more conventional.Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who have a tendency to be a bit dippy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW

Jagannath C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. Delightful vegetarian cafe with a touch of hippiness. Depending  on the time you can choose to take a dish from the self-ser vice counter in the cafe or opt to go through to the restaurant. Either promises a relaxing repast. You’ll have the choice of  many vegetables cooked all different ways under the sun, and there are tasty soups, salads and even soy  shashlik (shish kebabs). There’s also a very well-stocked vegetarian shop selling all the unusual favourites such as mate tea and rye flour  pasta. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGBSW

(+7) 499 241 13 64, www.cafemumu.ru. A popular chain of cheerful and cheap cow themed self-service eateries. Dotted around the city it’s a good place to “graze” away an hour or two. The one on Old Arbat street has a fake life size cow outside, presenting you with yet another photo opportunity for everyone back home to laugh at. The focus is on Russian food and yes it is stodgy. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. €.

PTJAGBSW

Restoranny Dom Ts Tsentralny entralny B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 1 (Kudrinksaya skyscraper), MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 255 47 44, www.restauranthouse.ru. Easily Moscow’s grandest self-service canteen and worth visiting just to look  at it. Situated in the ground floor of one of the Stalin ‘Seven Sisters’ skyscrapers this huge canteen has retained all of  the building’s original period detailing, including grand marble pillars, ceilings that reach to the sky and massive chandeli ers and stained glass panels. Popular due to its reliability and atmosphere, the place fills up but still has space for hundreds. The food is standard as good as it looks fare - you are getting  what you pay for, and by the time you get to the counter i t may  be a little cold. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW

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moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Nightlife Duma C-2, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, bldg. 3v (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. This place is not only literally  underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play  quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their  stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. Admission to concerts 200-600Rbl. PAEBSW

Main Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 22b, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 51 53, ww w.mainbar.ru. This cocktail bar   from t he brains behind other popular l ocal spots All Time Bar and Help Bar, knows what it is good at and focuses on getting that right. As well as the usual classics, the cocktail list is also filled out with new local summery favourites such as Aperol spritz and Pimms, both given their own special Russian twist, as well as numerous exclusive creations such as the Red Earl (vodka, ginger, rasberries and limoncello). A  little fresh out of the stalls to have gained a big following yet, the owners clearly anticipate crowds arriving and Main bar  boasts two long bar areas and various rooms with sofas for  lounging with friends as well as a nice courtyard summer  terrace. Q Open 24hrs. PABW

Mayak B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www.clubmayak.ru. Don’t come to Mayak looking to meet new people or find a special someone for the night. Mayak is mainly a sit-down old Viennese cafe-bar style gathering place for friends and colleagues. Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Tables are filled almost every night of the week, but luckily  the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but  otherwise there’s no background music only lively chatter. chatter. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PJAS

Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry Bar looks unusually stylish - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, bare-brick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashionable as well. During the week it’s a quiet  place to hang out with a cocktail listening to some chilled out  house and at weekends the music and buzz is just about   funky enough to justi fy that pret ty dan ce fl oor which sees some action past midnight. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  09:00 - 03:00. PAW

Avocado D-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye

Muu Muu B-2, Ul. Arbat 45/24, MSmolenskaya, tel.

Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under  those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy  to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. Admission prices are indicated where applicable and note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) policy applies.

Vegetarian

PTAGSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

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tel. (+7) 495 545 43 53, www.beef tro.ru.Aiming tro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty  goodness, Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look  is bright, clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, ef ficient and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef  is corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their  excellent burger and the selection of sauces are all winners. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW

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Moloko C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatral-

Hard Rock Cafe В-2, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This is the mac-daddy of American styl e food and fun. Three levels of  rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor  on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit  disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is prett y popular  so get in early and eat be fore you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. Admission on weekends after 21:00 500Rbl.

PTAEBS

Kalina Bar B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, Lotte Plaza (21st floor), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 55 19, www. kalinabar.ru. Cocktail bar and restaurant restaurant located 21 floors up on top of the swish Lotte Plaza Shopping Centre, Kalina Bar is a jet set choice. The birds eye view over the city  is stunning, especially as the sun sets and the city lights  flicker. The exper t cock tails and f ine wine selecti on all help the view go down even better and once the night sets in so does the house music as the b eautiful crowd turn up for their  aperitifs. If you want one of the prime window seats book in advance, especially at the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTAULBSW

Ketama Bar C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 5/6, bldg. 5, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. +7 495 692 92 68, ketamaradio.ru. A pumping summer place on a popular walking street that  is just too easy to find yourself perked up at. DJs rock out  on the open terrace where it is tall bar stools or standing  room only, while guests chill out over the cushions that cover  the huge balcony on top. The cocktail menu runs the usual Moscow standards and the patrons are usually starting  out the night here or having a passing drink on the way to a club. In colder months the cock tails carry on inside. Q Open 24hrs. PABW

moscow inyourpo cket com

naya, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 09. Moloko is a fancy looking  bar/restaurant that presents the ideal venue for a quiet  drink or business lunch meeting. The music is unobtrusive and tables are situated far enough away from each other to give diners and drinkers some privacy. The kitchen has yet to prove itself, but the drinks menu offers plenty for the cocktails crowd as well as whiskey swillers. The large windows looking  onto the street which are fully opened in summer offer a nice candid view of the local fashionistas. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW

Lucky Noodles One part cheap Chinese noodle takeaway and one part  secret underground bar, Lucky Noodles is a concept  borrowed straight from New York’s Chinatown. The small upstairs premises looks exactly like what it is - a cheap noodle takeaway spot. They’ve even got the menu written up on a piece of cardboard to fool you into thinking  it’s been here forever. Look to the right of the counter  however and you will see a black curtain disguising the entrance to the secret flashy cocktail bar Mendeleev in the basement. Don’t be surprised if on your way down a suited security guy shoos you away (it is supposed to be ‘secret’ after  all) and you end up having to sate yourself with a Tsingdao  from t he t akeaway   fridge ins tead.

Lucky Noodles Ul. Petrovka 20/1 M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 095 04 69. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 03:00.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

MyBar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another  ‘eltiny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming  venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly  a dive bar; especiall y popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it  offers offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays have also now become live music night with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner, friendly staff and relaxed opening hours have made it a hit. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor   fills u p and t he cro wd gets li vely. Q Open 18:00 until last  guest. PAW

Noor Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 903 136 76 86, www.noorbar.com. Noor on the  face of it appears to be just your average cafe - bright yellow walls and tiled floors give a vague Spanish feeling, while apparently the name is Arabic for light. In fact of an evening this classy bar is the second home of much of Moscow’s wealthier  art crowd. Don’t be surprised to see hipsters in fluorescent   jackets hanging out with suited guys who’ve just stepped out  of a Mercedes -the full strata of the city’s successful set are resident he re. A big draw for many are the drinks and the lack  of loud club music. Noor specialises in malt whiskies and the barmen who make their imaginative cocktails to order are well-loved by their patrons. Q Open 15:00-03:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-06:00. PASW

August - September 2012

39

38

Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under  those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy  to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. Admission prices are indicated where applicable and note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) policy applies.

Bars and Cafe Bars Bar 1920 C-2, Ul. Nikolskaya 10/2, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 13 68, www.bar1920.ru. A speakeasy themed bar bursting with old Al Capone gangster  Americana. The walls are plastered with pictures of the notorious bootleggers of the prohibition period while the staff are trussed up in braces and trilby hats. The music rests in the modern era with the latest pop dance hits  from Wes tern s tars mi xed in w ith a few spor adic class ics  from y ester year. Whisk y is th e ob vious drink choi ce h ere and won’t set you back much, while penny pinchers should watch out for the special offers on ‘contraband’ liqors. QOpen 24hrs. PAXW

Nightlife Duma C-2, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, bldg. 3v (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. This place is not only literally  underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play  quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their  stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. Admission to concerts 200-600Rbl. PAEBSW

Bar Strelka C-3, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but  is still notorious for the weekend entrance lineup where they  suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular  DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs and you may be lucky enough to be treated to a spontaneous unannounced concert. In the summer the roof terrace (which functions as more of a bar/  restaurant) restaurant) with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PALBW

Bar Volna E-2, ArtPlay Design Centre, Nizhny Syromyatnicheskaya ul. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 903 562 61 30, www.artplay.ru. The trendy former factory art  centre Artplay just stepped up its cool factor again with the addition of this chilled out little roof terrace bar. With trees popping up out of the deck, simple furniture and all wood surroundings it really feels very much like being up in a tree house and chilled reggae and bossa nova music  fur ther add s to the very anti-u rban vibe . Dr inks are lowpriced (there’s an art school nearby) and the clientele are remarkably unpretentious. unpretentious. Volna also o ccasionally  screen sports and films on a huge screen stretched over  a neighbouring building. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  11:00 - 02:00. PW

Moscow In Your Pocket

40

Main Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 22b, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 51 53, ww w.mainbar.ru. This cocktail bar   from t he brains behind other popular l ocal spots All Time Bar and Help Bar, knows what it is good at and focuses on getting that right. As well as the usual classics, the cocktail list is also filled out with new local summery favourites such as Aperol spritz and Pimms, both given their own special Russian twist, as well as numerous exclusive creations such as the Red Earl (vodka, ginger, rasberries and limoncello). A  little fresh out of the stalls to have gained a big following yet, the owners clearly anticipate crowds arriving and Main bar  boasts two long bar areas and various rooms with sofas for  lounging with friends as well as a nice courtyard summer  terrace. Q Open 24hrs. PABW

Mayak B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www.clubmayak.ru. Don’t come to Mayak looking to meet new people or find a special someone for the night. Mayak is mainly a sit-down old Viennese cafe-bar style gathering place for friends and colleagues. Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Tables are filled almost every night of the week, but luckily  the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but  otherwise there’s no background music only lively chatter. chatter. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PJAS

Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry Bar looks unusually stylish - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, bare-brick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashionable as well. During the week it’s a quiet  place to hang out with a cocktail listening to some chilled out  house and at weekends the music and buzz is just about   funky enough to justi fy that pret ty dan ce fl oor which sees some action past midnight. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  09:00 - 03:00. PAW

Moloko C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatral-

Hard Rock Cafe В-2, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This is the mac-daddy of American styl e food and fun. Three levels of  rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor  on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit  disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is prett y popular  so get in early and eat be fore you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. Admission on weekends after 21:00 500Rbl.

PTAEBS

Kalina Bar B-2, Novinsky bul. 8, Lotte Plaza (21st floor), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 55 19, www. kalinabar.ru. Cocktail bar and restaurant restaurant located 21 floors up on top of the swish Lotte Plaza Shopping Centre, Kalina Bar is a jet set choice. The birds eye view over the city  is stunning, especially as the sun sets and the city lights  flicker. The exper t cock tails and f ine wine selecti on all help the view go down even better and once the night sets in so does the house music as the b eautiful crowd turn up for their  aperitifs. If you want one of the prime window seats book in advance, especially at the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTAULBSW

Ketama Bar C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 5/6, bldg. 5, MTeatralnaya, Teatralnaya, tel. +7 495 692 92 68, ketamaradio.ru. A pumping summer place on a popular walking street that  is just too easy to find yourself perked up at. DJs rock out  on the open terrace where it is tall bar stools or standing  room only, while guests chill out over the cushions that cover  the huge balcony on top. The cocktail menu runs the usual Moscow standards and the patrons are usually starting  out the night here or having a passing drink on the way to a club. In colder months the cock tails carry on inside. Q Open 24hrs. PABW

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

naya, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 09. Moloko is a fancy looking  bar/restaurant that presents the ideal venue for a quiet  drink or business lunch meeting. The music is unobtrusive and tables are situated far enough away from each other to give diners and drinkers some privacy. The kitchen has yet to prove itself, but the drinks menu offers plenty for the cocktails crowd as well as whiskey swillers. The large windows looking  onto the street which are fully opened in summer offer a nice candid view of the local fashionistas. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW

Lucky Noodles One part cheap Chinese noodle takeaway and one part  secret underground bar, Lucky Noodles is a concept  borrowed straight from New York’s Chinatown. The small upstairs premises looks exactly like what it is - a cheap noodle takeaway spot. They’ve even got the menu written up on a piece of cardboard to fool you into thinking  it’s been here forever. Look to the right of the counter  however and you will see a black curtain disguising the entrance to the secret flashy cocktail bar Mendeleev in the basement. Don’t be surprised if on your way down a suited security guy shoos you away (it is supposed to be ‘secret’ after  all) and you end up having to sate yourself with a Tsingdao  from t he t akeaway   fridge ins tead.

Lucky Noodles Ul. Petrovka 20/1 M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 095 04 69. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 03:00.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Bars in Former Factories Moscow’s trendy converted fac tories are a great place to  find inter esting and un usual outdo or dining – and espe cially drinking and partying – options during the summer.

Red October Chocolate Factory The hip Red October Chocolate Factory area has numerous outdoor cafes and bars, many of which are located on the former factory’s roofs. This whole area is one of  the most popular nightlife spots on summer weekends, although it’s worth bearing in mind that the area is not  cheap and dress code scrutiny can b e strict. Probably  the most famous roof bar of the area is Bar Strelka which has a fantastic view over the river, great snacks and a relaxed vibe. Dome Bar and the loud Zarya Bar  are located in the yard next door and both have ample outdoor seating. Heading further into the factory you will find the quiet Produkty bar before you hit nightlife central at fashionable rooftop clubs Rolling Stone Bar, Reka and Gipsy. Red October Chocolate Factory C-3 MKropotkinskaya

ArtPlay and Winzavod Red October does not have the monopoly on cool  factory bars. Artplay, which is l ocated in a former tea  factory, b oasts a huge el ongated roof ter race b ar with ping pong tables and sun loungers whose great view over the surrounding area is very much ‘industrial chic’. There’s also a sec ond small treehouse style roof bar  called Volna which is nice for early evening drinks. The nearby Winzavod (a former wine factory now converted into numerous art galleries) also has a good open-air  bar/restaurant which also sometimes shows films on a giant projector screen and makes a nice place for a post-exhibit drink. ArtPlay na Yauze E-2 Ul. Nizhnaya SyromyatnichesSyromyatnicheskaya 5/7, MChkalovskaya, www.artplay.ru Winzavod E-2 4-y Syromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, www.winzavod.ru

Flacon The former bottle factory Flacon is certainly a rather out  of the way spot to go for a drink but the small open-air  swimming pool, volleyball beach and attached shack  bar in the back make it a nice urban escape, especially  on Tuesday’s when a live lindy hop band brings out the local swing dancers. An early evening drink out here can be the perfect end to a day spent shopping in the former   factory’s many qui rky design bou tiques. Kee p an eye on their website for weekend parties and free concer ts. Flacon Design Factory, Bol. Novodmitrovskaya ul. 36, MDmitrovskaya, www.flacon.su

MyBar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another  ‘eltiny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming  venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly  a dive bar; especiall y popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it  offers offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays have also now become live music night with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner, friendly staff and relaxed opening hours have made it a hit. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor   fills u p and t he cro wd gets li vely. Q Open 18:00 until last  guest. PAW

Noor Bar B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 23/12, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 903 136 76 86, www.noorbar.com. Noor on the  face of it appears to be just your average cafe - bright yellow walls and tiled floors give a vague Spanish feeling, while apparently the name is Arabic for light. In fact of an evening this classy bar is the second home of much of Moscow’s wealthier  art crowd. Don’t be surprised to see hipsters in fluorescent   jackets hanging out with suited guys who’ve just stepped out  of a Mercedes -the full strata of the city’s successful set are resident he re. A big draw for many are the drinks and the lack  of loud club music. Noor specialises in malt whiskies and the barmen who make their imaginative cocktails to order are well-loved by their patrons. Q Open 15:00-03:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-06:00. PASW

August - September 2012

Nightlife Simple Pub B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 6/1, MSmolenskaya,

Katie O’ Shea’s D-1, Grokholsky per. 26, bldg. 5, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 792 51 88, www.ka-

tel. (+7) 499 241 30 40, ww w.simplepub.ru. Sporting a more ‘gastropub’ look than you usually fin d in Moscow, Simple Pub features boxy leather sofas, mirrored pillars, bare-brick  walls and the odd TV showing fashion channels in amongst  the sports. Design elemen ts aside it is very similar to the rest  of the Moscow pub scene, with pricey beers and decidedly  average food. This would would be a perfectly acceptable place to drink if it weren’t for the warm beers which consistentl y appear  on the table. Despite asking for cold ones, the undrinkably  warm beer still appears and staff seem to be oblivious to the basic pub rule that beer should be served cold . Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAW

tieosheas.ru. The brains behind Moscow’s legendary Irish bar Silvers have put their heart and soul into this wonderfully  bright, spacious and airy Irish pub. As well as having possibly  the best (and cheapest) Guinness in Moscow, there’s also a great pub food menu (including curry). Each night of the week attracts an open and lively crowd and sports fans will be delighted with the amount of screens and variety of different sports covered. It’s also a great place for Sunday lunch and look out for posters advertising their (English language) pub quizzes. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat  10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PAIEBSW

The Hudson Bar B-1, Ul. Butyrsky val 10, MBeloruss-

Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, w ww.hudsonbar.ru. This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back   from hikin g up the prices and trying to ins till some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving  alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democrati c’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendl y and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy  hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for  inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PAW

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. This is as authentic as almost any other ‘British’ pub in Russia (in other words not very), but that’s not to say Scotland Yard isn’t a nice place to while away an hour or two with a good ale. Although the drinks are noticeably pricey, there’s a good selection on offer for beer aficionados and if you are here to watch sport you’ve plenty of screens to occupy your attention. The best thing abou t Scotland Yard Yard is its abundance of space, set over three floors of a quaint townhouse, there’s more than enough room and the large covered roof terrace is an especially  nice spot for a warm weather pint. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW

British and Irish Pubs Bobby Dazzler Pub С-1, Kostyansky per. 7/13, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 83, www.bobbydazzler.ru. Authentic red interior (they are fanatical Manchester  United supporters), background pub music that stays in the background and plenty of sports - there’s lots to like at the Bobby Dazzler. If you’re hungry go for the homemade sausages - which are all traditional meaty monsters made with Guinness or red ale. This pub is famous for its atmosphere during the big  sporting events and when there’s a big football match on it’s very difficult to get a sea t. The high number of T Vs means you will always be in someone’s way if you are standing so book  ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 06:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Live music on Saturdays. PAE Harat’s Irish Pub B-2, Ul. Arbat 23, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 965 377 01 36, www.harats.ru. This is not the Irish pub for watching sport in. The TVs are constantly showing  rock concerts on DVD, and as it turns out, judging by Harat’s popularity there are a lot of pe ople who like to go to rock music pubs which don’t show sports. With its tattooed bartenders, rock music soundtrack and dark and moody décor, there’s a grungy edge to Harat’s which makes a welcome change from the usual style of Irish pub to be found in Moscow. There is also a second Harat’s pub hidden in the end of the courtyard at Strastnoy bulvar 4, bldg. 5 (metro Pushkinskaya) which often has live music. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. PABW

John Donne Pub B-2, Nikitsky bul.12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 69 07, www.john-donne.ru. Exactly how it happened nobody kn ows, but John Donne is now one of  the most popular expat pubs in Moscow - you’ll hear more English spoken here than Russian. On match days it can be almost impossible to even get in the door, although the fact  that seating is universally on high bar stools nobody will mind you standing. What’s more the huge mixed crowd only tends to add to the atmosphere (and clouds of smoke). Also at  Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15 (metro Taganskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PALBSW Moscow In Your Pocket

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St.Peters and St.Anton Pub C-2, Nikitinsky per. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 960 14 02, www.realpub. ru. Finally a proper pub for real ale lovers - the selection on offer, which includes dozens of local micro-brews, is bafflingly  huge and also gourmet priced. Cider fans will be pleased with the unusually large choice and even happier to see that cider   features during the earl y evening happy hours. Much lighter  and less smokey than most Russian pubs, the St Peter’s still can get a bit too loud, especially when the li ve cover bands turn up, although during sports matches the atmosphere is relatively civilised. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAW

Alternative and live music B2 Club B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of  Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in  just one nig ht - if you can mana ge to figure your way around the labyrinthine interi or that is. Students and older locals alike  flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest  bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer  courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Admission Thu 400Rbl after 20:00, Fri, Sat 400Rbl (women), 600Rbl (men) after 20:00. Admission to concerts 300-20,000Rbl. PAEBSW

Kitaisky Lyotchik D-2, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. This underground labyrinth of three bar spaces is popular  with the alternative set. Affordable prices, live bands on weekends and casual atmosphere bordering on grunge are what some consider added b onuses. That the tables have been kicked around a bit only shows the deep love and esteem the regulars have. Food is served promptly, decent  sized portions with a smattering of Russian cuisine influences. QOpen 10:00 - 08:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00. Admissi on to concerts 250-500Rbl. PAESBW

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Krisis Zhanra D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www. kriziszhanra.ru. Popular with young yuppies who haven’t   forgotten their studen t da ys j ust yet, this place is a littl e bohemian paradise. Tucked away on the middle strip on Pokrovsky bulvar, its almost underground. It’s so dark and the music is so loud, you can not understand anything your   friends say let alone the waitress. waitress. The three split levels create a seventies open plan warehouse feel to which the classics soundtrack goes well with. Great for before and after drinks, picking up new friends and if you want to catch an energetic  free concert in the middle of the night. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Live music Fri, Sat. PJENS

Watching Sports Outdoors Moscow certainly has no shortage of sports bars, but  what there are precious few of during the summer months are bars where you can watch sports outside. Oth er than the numerous large bookmakers along ulitsa Novy Arbat, some of which have small street side open-air areas, if you are desperate to sit outside and enjoy the next Russian  football season, you may also like to try these places: Bavarius B-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya 2/30, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 11, www. bavarius.ru.Q €€. PAB Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, ww w.scotlandyardpub.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW Stirlitz B-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, stirlitz.su. Q Open 24hrs. PTAILVEGBSW

August - September 2012

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Nightlife Bars in Former Factories Moscow’s trendy converted fac tories are a great place to  find inter esting and un usual outdo or dining – and espe cially drinking and partying – options during the summer.

Red October Chocolate Factory The hip Red October Chocolate Factory area has numerous outdoor cafes and bars, many of which are located on the former factory’s roofs. This whole area is one of  the most popular nightlife spots on summer weekends, although it’s worth bearing in mind that the area is not  cheap and dress code scrutiny can b e strict. Probably  the most famous roof bar of the area is Bar Strelka which has a fantastic view over the river, great snacks and a relaxed vibe. Dome Bar and the loud Zarya Bar  are located in the yard next door and both have ample outdoor seating. Heading further into the factory you will find the quiet Produkty bar before you hit nightlife central at fashionable rooftop clubs Rolling Stone Bar, Reka and Gipsy. Red October Chocolate Factory C-3 MKropotkinskaya

ArtPlay and Winzavod Red October does not have the monopoly on cool  factory bars. Artplay, which is l ocated in a former tea  factory, b oasts a huge el ongated roof ter race b ar with ping pong tables and sun loungers whose great view over the surrounding area is very much ‘industrial chic’. There’s also a sec ond small treehouse style roof bar  called Volna which is nice for early evening drinks. The nearby Winzavod (a former wine factory now converted into numerous art galleries) also has a good open-air  bar/restaurant which also sometimes shows films on a giant projector screen and makes a nice place for a post-exhibit drink. ArtPlay na Yauze E-2 Ul. Nizhnaya SyromyatnichesSyromyatnicheskaya 5/7, MChkalovskaya, www.artplay.ru Winzavod E-2 4-y Syromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, www.winzavod.ru

Flacon The former bottle factory Flacon is certainly a rather out  of the way spot to go for a drink but the small open-air  swimming pool, volleyball beach and attached shack  bar in the back make it a nice urban escape, especially  on Tuesday’s when a live lindy hop band brings out the local swing dancers. An early evening drink out here can be the perfect end to a day spent shopping in the former   factory’s many qui rky design bou tiques. Kee p an eye on their website for weekend parties and free concer ts. Flacon Design Factory, Bol. Novodmitrovskaya ul. 36, MDmitrovskaya, www.flacon.su

Nightlife Simple Pub B-2, Smolenskaya pl. 6/1, MSmolenskaya,

tieosheas.ru. The brains behind Moscow’s legendary Irish bar Silvers have put their heart and soul into this wonderfully  bright, spacious and airy Irish pub. As well as having possibly  the best (and cheapest) Guinness in Moscow, there’s also a great pub food menu (including curry). Each night of the week attracts an open and lively crowd and sports fans will be delighted with the amount of screens and variety of different sports covered. It’s also a great place for Sunday lunch and look out for posters advertising their (English language) pub quizzes. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat  10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PAIEBSW

The Hudson Bar B-1, Ul. Butyrsky val 10, MBeloruss-

Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, w ww.hudsonbar.ru. This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back   from hikin g up the prices and trying to ins till some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving  alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democrati c’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendl y and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy  hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for  inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PAW

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. This is as authentic as almost any other ‘British’ pub in Russia (in other words not very), but that’s not to say Scotland Yard isn’t a nice place to while away an hour or two with a good ale. Although the drinks are noticeably pricey, there’s a good selection on offer for beer aficionados and if you are here to watch sport you’ve plenty of screens to occupy your attention. The best thing abou t Scotland Yard Yard is its abundance of space, set over three floors of a quaint townhouse, there’s more than enough room and the large covered roof terrace is an especially  nice spot for a warm weather pint. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW

British and Irish Pubs Bobby Dazzler Pub С-1, Kostyansky per. 7/13, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 83, www.bobbydazzler.ru. Authentic red interior (they are fanatical Manchester  United supporters), background pub music that stays in the background and plenty of sports - there’s lots to like at the Bobby Dazzler. If you’re hungry go for the homemade sausages - which are all traditional meaty monsters made with Guinness or red ale. This pub is famous for its atmosphere during the big  sporting events and when there’s a big football match on it’s very difficult to get a sea t. The high number of T Vs means you will always be in someone’s way if you are standing so book  ahead. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 06:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Live music on Saturdays. PAE Harat’s Irish Pub B-2, Ul. Arbat 23, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 965 377 01 36, www.harats.ru. This is not the Irish pub for watching sport in. The TVs are constantly showing  rock concerts on DVD, and as it turns out, judging by Harat’s popularity there are a lot of pe ople who like to go to rock music pubs which don’t show sports. With its tattooed bartenders, rock music soundtrack and dark and moody décor, there’s a grungy edge to Harat’s which makes a welcome change from the usual style of Irish pub to be found in Moscow. There is also a second Harat’s pub hidden in the end of the courtyard at Strastnoy bulvar 4, bldg. 5 (metro Pushkinskaya) which often has live music. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00. PABW

John Donne Pub B-2, Nikitsky bul.12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 69 07, www.john-donne.ru. Exactly how it happened nobody kn ows, but John Donne is now one of  the most popular expat pubs in Moscow - you’ll hear more English spoken here than Russian. On match days it can be almost impossible to even get in the door, although the fact  that seating is universally on high bar stools nobody will mind you standing. What’s more the huge mixed crowd only tends to add to the atmosphere (and clouds of smoke). Also at  Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15 (metro Taganskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PALBSW Moscow In Your Pocket

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moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Nightlife Masterskaya С-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLuby-

Gogol C-1, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya,

anka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, ww w.mstrsk.ru. What is there not to love about this folksy ex-banya with the air of an underground Viennese coffee coffee house mashed together with a bohemian artist’s studio. Live concerts and dancing in the evenings and during during the day artist’s sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room. For something  quieter join the intellectuals discus sing away in the back room or sample the excellent Thai food downstairs.To find it go down the alley b etween ul. Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. AdmisAdmis sion to concerts 0-1,000Rbl. PTENSW

tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something  is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant restaurant and the beer kiosk that  wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane. The music is bohemian stuff you probably won’t remember the next day  but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. Once the summer kicks in Gogol’s beer garden is one of Moscow’s most popular. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00. Admission to concerts 300-1,000Rbl.

Zavtra C-1, Ul. Sretenka 26/1, MSukharevskaya, tel.

PAEBSW

(+7) 495 607 07 13, zavtraclub.ru. The open all hours student bar brand Pirogi, which started in Kitay Gorod has come of age in this larger and more grown-up venue which has been rebranded as Zavtra. Thankfully enough the late night  impromptu impromptu dancing, intellectual clientele, house b eer served in huge teapots and low prices remain the same, although unfortunately it has also retained its reputation for slow service. The busier it is the more energetic the crowd feels - and hence the more difficul t it becomes to leave. Week nights see tables filled with punters discussing the day’s events, while on the weekends the DJs have a tendency to start spinning  those golden oldie favourites that encourage people to get up on the bar to dance. Q Open 24hrs. PAEW

Clubs Gipsy C-3, Bolotnaya nab. 3/4, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 86 93, www.facebook.com/ ilovegipsy. Currently considered by Moscow’s party parade to be one of the most fun clubs in town, Gipsy makes for a raucous and memorable late night of dancing, providing  you can pass the door. Everything about Gipsy is eclectic,  from the stran ge p orno carto on graffiti on the walls and Saturday Night Fever style dancefloor to the music which is one minute techno, and the next Avril Lavigne Lavigne - and jud ging   from the number of people dan cing on th e bar, this is wha t  Muscovites love . The dance floor with its 400 disco balls is blinding, while the rest of the club is extremely dark, but fear  not only good-looking folks are allowed in. In the summer their  huge beach themed roof terrace is the place to be. Q Open 05:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00-06:00. Face control. PW

Reka C-3, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 99 69, rekaclub.ru. With some of  the area’s best views of the river from its extensive bal conies and roof terraces, Reka is becoming one of the Red October  Factory’s most popular clubs. Reka hosts concerts or special DJ sets at the weekend, meaning usually you have to pay to enter and enjoy the carefully selected mix of hip international international groups. The spacious club offers areas for lounging and eating, as well as dancing and flirting and after the concerts are  finished, top DJs take to the decks to ke ep the part y going. During the week, this is a nice and easy place to drop by for  a quiet drink and a meal, especially if you can get out onto the terrace. At weekends keep in mind there is usually fairly  strict scrutiny on the door and long lines to pass. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW

Rolling Stone Bar & Tattoo C-3, Bolotnaya nab.3, bldg.1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 504 09 32, Go up the stairs www.myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo.Go www.myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo. and climb through the hole in the wall to find yourself in one Moscow’s only ‘fashion’ rock clubs, which gleams with roadhouse americana. In a very un-rocker style there’s a slightly  dressed up face control policy, but despite it all, if you pass the fashion scrutiny it’s still possible to party long and hard here way into the morning in rock and roll style.Try not to get too wasted else you may make an unwise decision in the tattoo parlour out the back. In summer the whole club pours out onto the colourful roof terrace which becomes a sunrise view dance floor. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  12:00 - 07:00. AEBW Solyanka D-2, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, w ww.s-11.ru. Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Just  arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Don’t   forget to carefully put together your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-than-thou dress code control - even if  you were eating here earlier in the day, they will still force you through the ordeal later on. Solyanka also runs regular gay  nights, check their website or facebook page for details. Q Open 10:00 - 06:00. Admission free. Fri, Sat 500 after 23:00. Face control. PASBW

For all the latest nightlife and restaurants reviews and to find out about the best concerts coming up this week follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/ MoscowInYourPocket Moscow

In Your Pocket

Katie O’ Shea’s D-1, Grokholsky per. 26, bldg. 5, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 792 51 88, www.ka-

tel. (+7) 499 241 30 40, ww w.simplepub.ru. Sporting a more ‘gastropub’ look than you usually fin d in Moscow, Simple Pub features boxy leather sofas, mirrored pillars, bare-brick  walls and the odd TV showing fashion channels in amongst  the sports. Design elemen ts aside it is very similar to the rest  of the Moscow pub scene, with pricey beers and decidedly  average food. This would would be a perfectly acceptable place to drink if it weren’t for the warm beers which consistentl y appear  on the table. Despite asking for cold ones, the undrinkably  warm beer still appears and staff seem to be oblivious to the basic pub rule that beer should be served cold . Q Open 12:00 until last guest. PAW

moscow inyourpo cket com

St.Peters and St.Anton Pub C-2, Nikitinsky per. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 960 14 02, www.realpub. ru. Finally a proper pub for real ale lovers - the selection on offer, which includes dozens of local micro-brews, is bafflingly  huge and also gourmet priced. Cider fans will be pleased with the unusually large choice and even happier to see that cider   features during the earl y evening happy hours. Much lighter  and less smokey than most Russian pubs, the St Peter’s still can get a bit too loud, especially when the li ve cover bands turn up, although during sports matches the atmosphere is relatively civilised. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAW

Alternative and live music B2 Club B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of  Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in  just one nig ht - if you can mana ge to figure your way around the labyrinthine interi or that is. Students and older locals alike  flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest  bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer  courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Admission Thu 400Rbl after 20:00, Fri, Sat 400Rbl (women), 600Rbl (men) after 20:00. Admission to concerts 300-20,000Rbl. PAEBSW

Kitaisky Lyotchik D-2, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. This underground labyrinth of three bar spaces is popular  with the alternative set. Affordable prices, live bands on weekends and casual atmosphere bordering on grunge are what some consider added b onuses. That the tables have been kicked around a bit only shows the deep love and esteem the regulars have. Food is served promptly, decent  sized portions with a smattering of Russian cuisine influences. QOpen 10:00 - 08:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00. Admissi on to concerts 250-500Rbl. PAESBW

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Krisis Zhanra D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www. kriziszhanra.ru. Popular with young yuppies who haven’t   forgotten their studen t da ys j ust yet, this place is a littl e bohemian paradise. Tucked away on the middle strip on Pokrovsky bulvar, its almost underground. It’s so dark and the music is so loud, you can not understand anything your   friends say let alone the waitress. waitress. The three split levels create a seventies open plan warehouse feel to which the classics soundtrack goes well with. Great for before and after drinks, picking up new friends and if you want to catch an energetic  free concert in the middle of the night. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. Live music Fri, Sat. PJENS

Watching Sports Outdoors Moscow certainly has no shortage of sports bars, but  what there are precious few of during the summer months are bars where you can watch sports outside. Oth er than the numerous large bookmakers along ulitsa Novy Arbat, some of which have small street side open-air areas, if you are desperate to sit outside and enjoy the next Russian  football season, you may also like to try these places: Bavarius B-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya 2/30, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 11, www. bavarius.ru.Q €€. PAB Scotland Yard Pub C-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 02 10, ww w.scotlandyardpub.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABW Stirlitz B-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, stirlitz.su. Q Open 24hrs. PTAILVEGBSW

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Nightlife Masterskaya С-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLuby-

Gogol C-1, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya,

anka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, ww w.mstrsk.ru. What is there not to love about this folksy ex-banya with the air of an underground Viennese coffee coffee house mashed together with a bohemian artist’s studio. Live concerts and dancing in the evenings and during during the day artist’s sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room. For something  quieter join the intellectuals discus sing away in the back room or sample the excellent Thai food downstairs.To find it go down the alley b etween ul. Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. AdmisAdmis sion to concerts 0-1,000Rbl. PTENSW

tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something  is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant restaurant and the beer kiosk that  wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane. The music is bohemian stuff you probably won’t remember the next day  but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. Once the summer kicks in Gogol’s beer garden is one of Moscow’s most popular. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00. Admission to concerts 300-1,000Rbl.

Zavtra C-1, Ul. Sretenka 26/1, MSukharevskaya, tel.

PAEBSW

(+7) 495 607 07 13, zavtraclub.ru. The open all hours student bar brand Pirogi, which started in Kitay Gorod has come of age in this larger and more grown-up venue which has been rebranded as Zavtra. Thankfully enough the late night  impromptu impromptu dancing, intellectual clientele, house b eer served in huge teapots and low prices remain the same, although unfortunately it has also retained its reputation for slow service. The busier it is the more energetic the crowd feels - and hence the more difficul t it becomes to leave. Week nights see tables filled with punters discussing the day’s events, while on the weekends the DJs have a tendency to start spinning  those golden oldie favourites that encourage people to get up on the bar to dance. Q Open 24hrs. PAEW

Clubs Gipsy C-3, Bolotnaya nab. 3/4, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 86 93, www.facebook.com/ ilovegipsy. Currently considered by Moscow’s party parade to be one of the most fun clubs in town, Gipsy makes for a raucous and memorable late night of dancing, providing  you can pass the door. Everything about Gipsy is eclectic,  from the stran ge p orno carto on graffiti on the walls and Saturday Night Fever style dancefloor to the music which is one minute techno, and the next Avril Lavigne Lavigne - and jud ging   from the number of people dan cing on th e bar, this is wha t  Muscovites love . The dance floor with its 400 disco balls is blinding, while the rest of the club is extremely dark, but fear  not only good-looking folks are allowed in. In the summer their  huge beach themed roof terrace is the place to be. Q Open 05:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00-06:00. Face control. PW

Reka C-3, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, bldg. 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 99 69, rekaclub.ru. With some of  the area’s best views of the river from its extensive bal conies and roof terraces, Reka is becoming one of the Red October  Factory’s most popular clubs. Reka hosts concerts or special DJ sets at the weekend, meaning usually you have to pay to enter and enjoy the carefully selected mix of hip international international groups. The spacious club offers areas for lounging and eating, as well as dancing and flirting and after the concerts are  finished, top DJs take to the decks to ke ep the part y going. During the week, this is a nice and easy place to drop by for  a quiet drink and a meal, especially if you can get out onto the terrace. At weekends keep in mind there is usually fairly  strict scrutiny on the door and long lines to pass. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAW

Rolling Stone Bar & Tattoo C-3, Bolotnaya nab.3, bldg.1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 504 09 32, Go up the stairs www.myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo.Go www.myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo. and climb through the hole in the wall to find yourself in one Moscow’s only ‘fashion’ rock clubs, which gleams with roadhouse americana. In a very un-rocker style there’s a slightly  dressed up face control policy, but despite it all, if you pass the fashion scrutiny it’s still possible to party long and hard here way into the morning in rock and roll style.Try not to get too wasted else you may make an unwise decision in the tattoo parlour out the back. In summer the whole club pours out onto the colourful roof terrace which becomes a sunrise view dance floor. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat  12:00 - 07:00. AEBW Solyanka D-2, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, w ww.s-11.ru. Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Just  arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Don’t   forget to carefully put together your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-than-thou dress code control - even if  you were eating here earlier in the day, they will still force you through the ordeal later on. Solyanka also runs regular gay  nights, check their website or facebook page for details. Q Open 10:00 - 06:00. Admission free. Fri, Sat 500 after 23:00. Face control. PASBW

For all the latest nightlife and restaurants reviews and to find out about the best concerts coming up this week follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/ MoscowInYourPocket Moscow

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SightSeeing

SightSeeing Red Square

Must See Moscow

Lenin Mausoleum C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder  of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be d ead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is fre e.

Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name  from an anci ent festi val where th e Virgin’s rob es are trans ferred from Pal estine to Constantinople (now Istan bul), this Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, w ww.kreml.ru. The street  is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484- 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pat tern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development  stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest  political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the worldand the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristo  famous red walls ne stles a colle ction of buil dings of various tle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet  Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being  now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The part of the Government and Presidential estate, estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter servic e was an essential conquest. held here. Services resumed in 1990. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took  Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where number of ticket booths, the most important being located ecclesiastical treasures of the Or thodox church are on display  in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your  as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jeweller y and tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near  clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building  also often houses temporary exhibitions. the ticket office, under the gate.

The Kremlin

The Kremlin C-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky

A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along  with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds,  jewels and so on are store d) you must buy a separa te - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before  you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. Michael. A relative youngster  on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also ha s more of an Italian re naissance  feel to i t wi th i ts Cor inthi an gab les and turre ts an d whi te stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by  Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that  prominent artists of the time including A ndrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz  all worked on them.

Moscow In Your Pocket

The Ivan the Great Be ll Tower.The Tower.The impressive 60 metre high tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry  was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest  bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack  in it. In recent years the the belfry has be come home to a new high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over  central Moscow and get a close up l ook at the b ells. You You must  by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only  go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru.Standing www.saintbasil.ru.Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it  is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history history is all about a country  being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. latter. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl. State History Museum C-2, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of  cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their  role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary revolutionary ac tivists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the  first flo or, but not unfortunatel y the second. There is a 2hr  audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admis sion 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 people by prior  arrangement. PAU

Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,0002,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All ticke ts must  be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. Q

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The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the iconic domes of the magnificent St. magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket  of the historic GUM department store, store, queue up early to catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long  and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical Museum. Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing  Kremlin walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling   flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory  filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars.

Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow river  is hands down the best way to see the city and get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of Moscow biggest landmarks and in the summer with some tickets you can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish. When the river freezes over the luxury cruisers from the Radisson Ukraina hotel still travel the river by using their  own ice-breaker.

Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to the Tretyakov Galleries. Galleries. The older of the two buildings houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection at the modern building on Krymsk y val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, renaissance and early 20th Century European art and tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich Museum filled Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. Many of Russia’s best  writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of  Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been preserved as museums. Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling  metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Europe. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval architecture of the well cared for  Kolomenskoye Museum Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s Tsaritsino. Tsaritsino . Stretching along the Moscow river  Gorky Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s park and is especially loved b y families, if your feet can take it the latter is als o a good jumping point for a climb up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over Moscow. To the north the sta tely palaces of Kuskovo of Kuskovo and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse glimpse into how Moscow’s nobility use d to live in the days before communism.

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SightSeeing

SightSeeing Red Square

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Must See Moscow

Lenin Mausoleum C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder  of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be d ead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is fre e.

Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name  from an anci ent festi val where th e Virgin’s rob es are trans ferred from Pal estine to Constantinople (now Istan bul), this Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, w ww.kreml.ru. The street  is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484- 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pat tern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development  stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest  political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the worldand the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristo  famous red walls ne stles a colle ction of buil dings of various tle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet  Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being  now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The part of the Government and Presidential estate, estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter servic e was an essential conquest. held here. Services resumed in 1990. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took  Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where number of ticket booths, the most important being located ecclesiastical treasures of the Or thodox church are on display  in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your  as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jeweller y and tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near  clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building  also often houses temporary exhibitions. the ticket office, under the gate.

The Kremlin

The Kremlin C-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky

A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along  with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds,  jewels and so on are store d) you must buy a separa te - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before  you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. Michael. A relative youngster  on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also ha s more of an Italian re naissance  feel to i t wi th i ts Cor inthi an gab les and turre ts an d whi te stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by  Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that  prominent artists of the time including A ndrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz  all worked on them.

The Ivan the Great Be ll Tower.The Tower.The impressive 60 metre high tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry  was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest  bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack  in it. In recent years the the belfry has be come home to a new high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over  central Moscow and get a close up l ook at the b ells. You You must  by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only  go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket.

State History Museum C-2, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of  cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their  role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary revolutionary ac tivists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the  first flo or, but not unfortunatel y the second. There is a 2hr  audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admis sion 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 people by prior  arrangement. PAU

Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,0002,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All ticke ts must  be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. Q

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St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru.Standing www.saintbasil.ru.Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it  is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history history is all about a country  being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. latter. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl.

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SightSeeing Churches and Monasteries Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other  churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent  Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of  Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.

Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their  original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg res cuer, Viktor  Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under  Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 07:00 - 20.00. Services at 7:00, 17:00. Sat, Sun 08:45, 16:45. Admission free.

Novodevichy Cemetery Luzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com.This novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s Who of  Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a  fascinating place and hunting aroun d for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest m emorial is in stark contrast to the many  Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Admission free.

Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, w ww.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at  Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magni ficent and pea ceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating fascinating nearby  cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls. Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon of the month. Admission 100-150Rbl.

Museums www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of the most  inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring to it as a ‘museum’, does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s House is first  and foremost the functionin g workshop of Alexander Burganov (1935 -), one of Russia’s most famous living sculptors. His contemporary masterpie ces, which can also be seen in many  European capital cities, gree t you from trees, windowsills and the neighbouring buildings surrounding the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden. Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several paintings, are on display. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 20:00. Admission 60-200Rbl. Free admission every third Sun.

Borodino Panorama

tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally ly part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding  brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance bein g  decorated by bri ght frescoes as you enter. Formerly Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it  is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity ver y popular with pilgrimswho come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of th e Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War  (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy  historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open 08:00 19:00. Services at 07.40, 16.40. Admission free. Guided tours only for groups from 20 to 45 people, 250Rbl per person by  prior arrangement. For booking call (+7) 495 952 02 53.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow river  is hands down the best way to see the city and get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of Moscow biggest landmarks and in the summer with some tickets you can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish. When the river freezes over the luxury cruisers from the Radisson Ukraina hotel still travel the river by using their  own ice-breaker.

Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to the Tretyakov Galleries. Galleries. The older of the two buildings houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection at the modern building on Krymsk y val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, renaissance and early 20th Century European art and tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich Museum filled Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. Many of Russia’s best  writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of  Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been preserved as museums. Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling  metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Europe. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval architecture of the well cared for  Kolomenskoye Museum Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s Tsaritsino. Tsaritsino . Stretching along the Moscow river  Gorky Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s park and is especially loved b y families, if your feet can take it the latter is als o a good jumping point for a climb up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over Moscow. To the north the sta tely palaces of Kuskovo of Kuskovo and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse glimpse into how Moscow’s nobility use d to live in the days before communism.

August - September 2012

SightSeeing

Burganov’s House B-2, Bol. Afanasyevsky per.15, bldg. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 04 29,

Donskoy MonasteryDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya,

The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the iconic domes of the magnificent St. magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket  of the historic GUM department store, store, queue up early to catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long  and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical Museum. Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing  Kremlin walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling   flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory  filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars.

Borodino Battle Panorama MuseumKutuzovsky pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27, www.1812panorama.ru.Founded www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the most famous battles in human history the Borodino Battle museum is not to be missed. It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting, 115m wide and 15m high. Standing in the middle of this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody) battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000 perished. After  Borodino Napoleon Napoleon took Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris. Interactive displays shed more light on the progress of  the brutal battle al though sadly they are only in Russian. Russian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00 (April - September), 10:00 - 20:00 (October - March). Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. Admission 110Rbl.

moscow inyourpo cket com

Cold War Museum (Bunker 42 on Taganka) D-3, 5-y Kotelnichesky per. 11, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 05 54, bunker42.com. This top secret bunker is located 18 floors beneath Moscow in the Taganskaya area. So close to the metro, there are not only adjoining tunnels but carriages rattling past fill the concrete passageways with a whole lot of groaning noisy sound. Decommissioned and sold off at auction, this ex-military communications post  is now a museum dedicated to the Cold War. Complete with KGB rooms (now rehearsal space for heavy metal bands), raid sirens, and kilometres of tunnels, this is the real experience. Guides play the role of KGB officers and the exhibits are all very hands-on. Not recommended for claustrophobes, claustrophobes, but  definitely for the curious and historically inquisitive. The bunker is also available to hire for functions be there conferen ces or team-building role play games with lasers and paintballing  and so on. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Russians 400Rbl-700Rbl,  foreigners 700Rbl-1,30 0Rbl. Indiv idual tours for groups of 5 or less people start at 6,500Rbl (Russians) to 11,000Rbl (foreigners). PN

CosmonauticsMuseum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of  the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents  from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty  of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering  space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Rbl-350Rbl. Guided tours in English or French for up to 15 people by prior  arrangement - 7,500Rbl per group. Call (+7) 495 683-18 26. Free admission every third Sun.

Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Ul. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Dedicated to the Great  Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of  the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 0-100Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art E-4, Derbenevskaya nab. 7/Derbenevskaya ul. 7, Novospassky Dvor Business Complex, bldg. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 640 14 76, rusrealart.ru.If rusrealart.ru. If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t  yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by  masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty  and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. There is a free shuttle bus from the metro, otherwise it is about a 20 minute walk along the river. Once you reach the former factory complex, keep following the logo until you reach building 31. Q Admission 0 - 150Rbl.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Monuments to 1812 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. After Napoleon’s forces fled Russia, Tsar Tsar Alexander I announced his intention to built a grand cathedral dedicated to Jesus Christ “to signify our  gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed her”. The neoclassical cathedral was slated to be built on top of the Sparrow Hills, but when Alexander died and was succeeded by  Nikolai I, the idea was scrapped. Nikolai’s vision was of  something much more Orthodox in look, modelled on the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. This new cathedral was not completed until 1860, and it then took another 23 years before the interiors were finished. The cathedral was consecrated in 1883. Only a few decades later in 1931 Stalin had the whole construction demolished. In the 1990s the cathedral was rebuilt anew based on old records and paintings. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Services are held daily at 08:00 and 17:00, extra services on Sat  09:00, Sun 10:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English  for g roups for u p to10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-bo oking  required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Triumphal Ar ch Kutuzovsky pr. 38, M Park Pobedy. In 1814 a wooden triumphal ar ch was built on Tverskaya ulitsa, not far from where the Belorussky station now is. This was then replaced in 1834 by a grand triumphal arch made of stone with cast iron reliefs and the following  dedication; “These Triumphal Gates are built as a token of the memory of the triumph of Russian warriors in 1814 and the rebuilding of the splendid monuments and buildings of our capital, Moscow, ruined in 1812 by the invasion of the Gauls and the two hundre d languages with them.” As part of his re-planning of the city, Stalin had the gate moved in 1936. It was dismantled and then later  reconstructed in 1966 at a new location on Kutuzovsky  prospect in front of the Borodino Panorama museum.

BorodinskyBridge. The bridge that crosses the Moscow river opposite the Hotel Ukraina at metro Kievskaya was renamed Borodino brid ge in 1837 as part of the 25th anniversary of the battle, as it was here that Kutuzov led his army out of the ci ty for the last time. In 1913 the design and construction of the bridge was altered to incorporate numerous monuments and obelisks to great  heroes of the 1812 war such as Kutuzov and Barclay de Tolly as well as lesser known but no less brave men suc h as the leaders of the partisan armies.

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SightSeeing Churches and Monasteries Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other  churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent  Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of  Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.

Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their  original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg res cuer, Viktor  Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under  Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 07:00 - 20.00. Services at 7:00, 17:00. Sat, Sun 08:45, 16:45. Admission free.

SightSeeing Novodevichy Cemetery Luzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com.This novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s Who of  Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a  fascinating place and hunting aroun d for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest m emorial is in stark contrast to the many  Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Admission free.

Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, w ww.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at  Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magni ficent and pea ceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating fascinating nearby  cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls. Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon of the month. Admission 100-150Rbl.

Museums Burganov’s House B-2, Bol. Afanasyevsky per.15, bldg. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 04 29, www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of the most  inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring to it as a ‘museum’, does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s House is first  and foremost the functionin g workshop of Alexander Burganov (1935 -), one of Russia’s most famous living sculptors. His contemporary masterpie ces, which can also be seen in many  European capital cities, gree t you from trees, windowsills and the neighbouring buildings surrounding the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden. Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several paintings, are on display. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 20:00. Admission 60-200Rbl. Free admission every third Sun.

Borodino Panorama

Donskoy MonasteryDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally ly part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding  brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance bein g  decorated by bri ght frescoes as you enter. Formerly Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it  is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity ver y popular with pilgrimswho come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of th e Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War  (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy  historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open 08:00 19:00. Services at 07.40, 16.40. Admission free. Guided tours only for groups from 20 to 45 people, 250Rbl per person by  prior arrangement. For booking call (+7) 495 952 02 53.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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Borodino Battle Panorama MuseumKutuzovsky pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27, www.1812panorama.ru.Founded www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the most famous battles in human history the Borodino Battle museum is not to be missed. It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting, 115m wide and 15m high. Standing in the middle of this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody) battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000 perished. After  Borodino Napoleon Napoleon took Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris. Interactive displays shed more light on the progress of  the brutal battle al though sadly they are only in Russian. Russian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00 (April - September), 10:00 - 20:00 (October - March). Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. Admission 110Rbl.

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

Cold War Museum (Bunker 42 on Taganka) D-3, 5-y Kotelnichesky per. 11, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 05 54, bunker42.com. This top secret bunker is located 18 floors beneath Moscow in the Taganskaya area. So close to the metro, there are not only adjoining tunnels but carriages rattling past fill the concrete passageways with a whole lot of groaning noisy sound. Decommissioned and sold off at auction, this ex-military communications post  is now a museum dedicated to the Cold War. Complete with KGB rooms (now rehearsal space for heavy metal bands), raid sirens, and kilometres of tunnels, this is the real experience. Guides play the role of KGB officers and the exhibits are all very hands-on. Not recommended for claustrophobes, claustrophobes, but  definitely for the curious and historically inquisitive. The bunker is also available to hire for functions be there conferen ces or team-building role play games with lasers and paintballing  and so on. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Russians 400Rbl-700Rbl,  foreigners 700Rbl-1,30 0Rbl. Indiv idual tours for groups of 5 or less people start at 6,500Rbl (Russians) to 11,000Rbl (foreigners). PN

CosmonauticsMuseum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of  the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents  from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty  of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering  space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Rbl-350Rbl. Guided tours in English or French for up to 15 people by prior  arrangement - 7,500Rbl per group. Call (+7) 495 683-18 26. Free admission every third Sun.

Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Ul. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Dedicated to the Great  Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of  the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 0-100Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art E-4, Derbenevskaya nab. 7/Derbenevskaya ul. 7, Novospassky Dvor Business Complex, bldg. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 640 14 76, rusrealart.ru.If rusrealart.ru. If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t  yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by  masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty  and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. There is a free shuttle bus from the metro, otherwise it is about a 20 minute walk along the river. Once you reach the former factory complex, keep following the logo until you reach building 31. Q Admission 0 - 150Rbl.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

SightSeeing Did you know? Did you know that there were once very serious plans to completely knock down the Moscow Kremlin and build a new modern fortre ss in its place? No, this wasn’t a Soviet  plot to remodel the city; it was in fact one of Catherine the Great’s ideas to make Moscow look m ore ‘European’. The new Kremlin was to be a n eo-classical masterpiece designed by the architect Vasily Bazhenov. The The ancient  cathedrals would remain, but everything else - the huge thick walls, gates and immense towers were to be obliterated to make way for elegant Doric columns and Palladian stairways. The first ceremonial stones were broken on the site in 1771, but just two years later  the Empress halted construction permanently to save money for her war purse. The Kremlin’s outer walls had still to this point been left untouched and so the medieval  façade o f the anc ient for tress was save d. You can see Bazhenov’s original full scale model and d esigns for the ambitious and groundbreaking project at the fascinating  Shchusev State Architecture Museum. Schusev State Museum of ArchitectureC-2, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 5, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 21 09, www.muar.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Please note admission stops one hour prior to closing  time. Admission 100Rbl.

Moscow Planetarium B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 5, bldg. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 76 90, www.planetarium-moscow.ru. Space fanatics prepare to be wowed - the long and expensive renovation of this historic planetarium has yielded stunning results. At the interactive museum children and adults can learn about space, telescopes, satellites, satellites, gravity and other miracles of science by getting involved in hands-on exhibits that are very well explained in many languages and are simultaneously fun and insightful. There’s also a more classical museum filled with all kinds of cosmic artifacts and technology used in space exploration. Once you’ve tired yourself out with all that l earning  head into the huge star hall for the big show. Themes for the cosmic journey include black hole s, cosmic collisions, Saturn’s rings and the sun. There’s also a 4-D theatre showing other  exciting films and blockbusters, an observatory and a garden  featuring modern examples of ancient stargazing device s. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Close d Tue. Museum admission 180-350Rbl, large star hall 100-550Rbl, 4D cinema 150-350Rbl, observatory 130-250Rbl.

Nikolay Roerich Museum B-2, Maly Znamensky per.3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, icr.su. Nikolai Roerich and his family are possibly some of  the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20 th Century, Nikolai and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art  of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way  of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This  fantastic museum is dedicate d not only to Nikolai’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great  atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts  from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descripti ons add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolai Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through -. the most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory  long after leaving. A must see. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 220Rbl. Moscow In Your Pocket

Monuments to 1812 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour B-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. After Napoleon’s forces fled Russia, Tsar Tsar Alexander I announced his intention to built a grand cathedral dedicated to Jesus Christ “to signify our  gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed her”. The neoclassical cathedral was slated to be built on top of the Sparrow Hills, but when Alexander died and was succeeded by  Nikolai I, the idea was scrapped. Nikolai’s vision was of  something much more Orthodox in look, modelled on the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. This new cathedral was not completed until 1860, and it then took another 23 years before the interiors were finished. The cathedral was consecrated in 1883. Only a few decades later in 1931 Stalin had the whole construction demolished. In the 1990s the cathedral was rebuilt anew based on old records and paintings. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Services are held daily at 08:00 and 17:00, extra services on Sat  09:00, Sun 10:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English  for g roups for u p to10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-bo oking  required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Triumphal Ar ch Kutuzovsky pr. 38, M Park Pobedy. In 1814 a wooden triumphal ar ch was built on Tverskaya ulitsa, not far from where the Belorussky station now is. This was then replaced in 1834 by a grand triumphal arch made of stone with cast iron reliefs and the following  dedication; “These Triumphal Gates are built as a token of the memory of the triumph of Russian warriors in 1814 and the rebuilding of the splendid monuments and buildings of our capital, Moscow, ruined in 1812 by the invasion of the Gauls and the two hundre d languages with them.” As part of his re-planning of the city, Stalin had the gate moved in 1936. It was dismantled and then later  reconstructed in 1966 at a new location on Kutuzovsky  prospect in front of the Borodino Panorama museum.

BorodinskyBridge. The bridge that crosses the Moscow river opposite the Hotel Ukraina at metro Kievskaya was renamed Borodino brid ge in 1837 as part of the 25th anniversary of the battle, as it was here that Kutuzov led his army out of the ci ty for the last time. In 1913 the design and construction of the bridge was altered to incorporate numerous monuments and obelisks to great  heroes of the 1812 war such as Kutuzov and Barclay de Tolly as well as lesser known but no less brave men suc h as the leaders of the partisan armies.

August - September 2012

SightSeeing Pushkin Fine Arts Museum B/C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru.Opened artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it house s a lot of the world’s art in the  form of plaster casts. It also h as works by th e Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addi tion of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th ce ntury. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first  grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English available. Watch out for long  queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100-400Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, Tverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the  former Museum of Revolution. Now that histor y has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great  music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat, Sun 11.00 - 19.00. Clos ed Mon. Admission 20-250Rbl. English tour 4,800Rbl. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Tretyakov Gallery C-3, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, ww w.tretyakovgallery.ru. For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the  famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector  Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging   from exquisite exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and reveal ing  insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering suffering yet  inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets  found throughou t the museum; th ere is always at le ast one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. Guided tours for foreign groups of 5-20 people 2,400Rbl per group (by prior arrangement). PU

Tchaikovsky Museum B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 46/54, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 15 14, www.glinka. museum. Dedicated to the life, times and music of the man who brought the world Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker, the operas Eugene Onegin and The Queen of Spades and of course the 1812 Overture. It‘s kind of an endless list once you get going. This Moscow apartment  where he lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a collection of photos and musical memorabilia,  family photos, and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. Th e guide and the tour are provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t understand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more than you can read about not only about  Tchaikovsky but the musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various friendships are also enumerated here. Tue. Admission 300 Rbl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed M on, Tue. Guided tours for up to 10-20 people 3,400-5,900Rbl. UW

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Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-4, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work  contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the  fourth flo or to begin wi th the Mosc ow moder nists. Not onl y  is this venue, in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political  framework to understan ding the piec es. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was,  full of difficult and conflicting atti tudes and ideas and stages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Zurab Tsereteli Museum-Studio B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 15, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 777 48 50, w ww.tsereteli.ru. ww.tsereteli.ru. Tsereteli’s working studio where he stores yet more of the paintings and sculptures that now litter  Moscow’s parks and streets is a bizarre den crammed full of the Georgian artist’s extravagant works. The main highlight here is the sculpture yard which is a forest full of colour ful statues of people, angels,religious iconography, suitcases, boots and other odds and ends. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. Admission 80-300Rbl.

Tours Ar ound Moscow Moscow City Guide, tel. (+7) 903 137 76 67, moscow-cityguide.com. Run by the ever energetic Tatyana, Moscow City Guide are great people to contact if you are looking for bespoke group tours, interpreters or just someone to help you get around the ci ty for a few hours. Some of  the most popular tours include The Mysteries of Moscow, Behind the Moscow River and Royal Estates. Tatyana can also organise mini-buses and smaller cars with th eir own drivers to help you get around town and provide interpreters to help in business meetings or trade fare events. Our favourite service is the ‘interactive’ tour - a kind of race against time Moscow treasure hunt! Q24-hour tours in English, French, German, Spanish and Italian. Theatre and circus tickets. Segway Fan, tel. (+7) 495 226 00 58, www.segwayfan.ru. A new and unique twist on the usual tours around Moscow - travelling around the city on your own stand-up motorized two-wheeler, an American invention known as Segway. Given that you can cover around 10km in just two hours, a Segway tour means you really get to see everything interesting around the city - and comfortably without even breaking a sweat. You can order tours with guides, or just have someon e who will go around with you taking pictures and of course there will always be someone pointing you in the right direction so you don’t  get lost. A lot of fun and definitely not your usual kind of  tour. Q City tour with professional tour guide 3,500Rbl. Groups of 2 to 8 people max. Individual customised tour  2,500Rbl/hour. Groups of 2 to 4 people. Prices are per person. For people over 16 years of age only, weight limitations 45Kg - 117Kg. Tours can be ordered online or by phone.

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SightSeeing Did you know? Did you know that there were once very serious plans to completely knock down the Moscow Kremlin and build a new modern fortre ss in its place? No, this wasn’t a Soviet  plot to remodel the city; it was in fact one of Catherine the Great’s ideas to make Moscow look m ore ‘European’. The new Kremlin was to be a n eo-classical masterpiece designed by the architect Vasily Bazhenov. The The ancient  cathedrals would remain, but everything else - the huge thick walls, gates and immense towers were to be obliterated to make way for elegant Doric columns and Palladian stairways. The first ceremonial stones were broken on the site in 1771, but just two years later  the Empress halted construction permanently to save money for her war purse. The Kremlin’s outer walls had still to this point been left untouched and so the medieval  façade o f the anc ient for tress was save d. You can see Bazhenov’s original full scale model and d esigns for the ambitious and groundbreaking project at the fascinating  Shchusev State Architecture Museum. Schusev State Museum of ArchitectureC-2, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 5, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 21 09, www.muar.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Please note admission stops one hour prior to closing  time. Admission 100Rbl.

Moscow Planetarium B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 5, bldg. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 76 90, www.planetarium-moscow.ru. Space fanatics prepare to be wowed - the long and expensive renovation of this historic planetarium has yielded stunning results. At the interactive museum children and adults can learn about space, telescopes, satellites, satellites, gravity and other miracles of science by getting involved in hands-on exhibits that are very well explained in many languages and are simultaneously fun and insightful. There’s also a more classical museum filled with all kinds of cosmic artifacts and technology used in space exploration. Once you’ve tired yourself out with all that l earning  head into the huge star hall for the big show. Themes for the cosmic journey include black hole s, cosmic collisions, Saturn’s rings and the sun. There’s also a 4-D theatre showing other  exciting films and blockbusters, an observatory and a garden  featuring modern examples of ancient stargazing device s. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Close d Tue. Museum admission 180-350Rbl, large star hall 100-550Rbl, 4D cinema 150-350Rbl, observatory 130-250Rbl.

Nikolay Roerich Museum B-2, Maly Znamensky per.3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, icr.su. Nikolai Roerich and his family are possibly some of  the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20 th Century, Nikolai and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art  of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way  of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This  fantastic museum is dedicate d not only to Nikolai’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great  atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts  from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descripti ons add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolai Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through -. the most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory  long after leaving. A must see. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 220Rbl. Moscow In Your Pocket

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SightSeeing Pushkin Fine Arts Museum B/C-2, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru.Opened artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it house s a lot of the world’s art in the  form of plaster casts. It also h as works by th e Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addi tion of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th ce ntury. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first  grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English available. Watch out for long  queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100-400Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History B-1, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, Tverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the  former Museum of Revolution. Now that histor y has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great  music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat, Sun 11.00 - 19.00. Clos ed Mon. Admission 20-250Rbl. English tour 4,800Rbl. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

Tretyakov Gallery C-3, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, ww w.tretyakovgallery.ru. For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the  famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector  Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging   from exquisite exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and reveal ing  insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering suffering yet  inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets  found throughou t the museum; th ere is always at le ast one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. Guided tours for foreign groups of 5-20 people 2,400Rbl per group (by prior arrangement). PU

Tchaikovsky Museum B-2, Kudrinskaya pl. 46/54, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 15 14, www.glinka. museum. Dedicated to the life, times and music of the man who brought the world Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker, the operas Eugene Onegin and The Queen of Spades and of course the 1812 Overture. It‘s kind of an endless list once you get going. This Moscow apartment  where he lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a collection of photos and musical memorabilia,  family photos, and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. Th e guide and the tour are provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t understand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more than you can read about not only about  Tchaikovsky but the musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various friendships are also enumerated here. Tue. Admission 300 Rbl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed M on, Tue. Guided tours for up to 10-20 people 3,400-5,900Rbl. UW

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Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-4, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work  contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the  fourth flo or to begin wi th the Mosc ow moder nists. Not onl y  is this venue, in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political  framework to understan ding the piec es. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was,  full of difficult and conflicting atti tudes and ideas and stages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU moscow.inyourpocket.com

SightSeeing River Cruises City Boat Tour A-3, Boats leave from the river stop outside the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, just north of the Bogdana Khmelniktskogo (crystal) Bridge, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 60 70, www.cckship.ru. An hour and half’s tour along the Moscow River  takes you past all the main Moscow sights making it a must see excursion for any city visi tor. Boats make stops at different sightseeing points along the way, including  Moscow University - Sparrow Hills, the Neskuchny Gardens, and the Kremlin. If you want to get off, explore the area, and hop back on another boat later, you’d better  buy a full-day pass, or else, once you disembark, that  is the end of your ride. The tour begins at the crystal pedestrian bridge near Kievsky train station and ends at  the Novospassky Bridge. The Novospassky monastery  makes an enchanting end to the trip before hopping on the metro at Volgogradsky Prospekt at the end of the big street by the same name. You can also board from Novospassky and end at Kievsky. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Admission adults 400Rbl, children 150Rbl. All day passes with unlimited stops, 800Rbl, children 200Rbl. Navigation  from April to October and boats lea ve every 15 minutes.

Vodnoe Taxi C-3, Boats leave from the pier at Luzhkov bridge, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 589 47 80, vodnoetaxi.ru. Don’t want to share your boat cruise around Moscow with dozens of other tourists? Vodnoe taxi is the perfec t solution. You can hire hire your own boat for one or two hour round trips and even get a guide or some food and drinks on-board too for an extra fee. The cheapest  prices start at 5,000-6,000Rbl an hour for a 20 person boat and the route takes you past all the main sights. Q Boats can accommodate between 20 and 50 people.

Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki B-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.r www.tolstoymuseum.ru. u.The The house where Tolstoy Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or  Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the  family spent their time, inc luding displays and exhibi ts of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last  Fri of the month. Admission 60-200Rbl.

Parks and Gardens

Writer’s museums

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs)Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre. ru. This massive complex of pavillion buildings whose glory  is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great  collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what  is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet  republic sits at the heart of th e complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet  republic and its achievements. Come weekends it is crawling  with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look  out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl.

Chekhov Museum B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, ww w.goslit-

Gorky Park B-4, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury,

muz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny  metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that  the music lover, who lived with his mot her, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal de dication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions  following th e life of the great write r, a surprising numb er of  photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 50-100Rbl.

tel. (+7) 499 237 12 66, ww w.park-gorkogo.com w.park-gorkogo.com.. The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011  and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent  near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the An dreyevsky  dreyevsky  bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC. There’s usually  something special happening every weekend, with many  events especially marketed at kids. Q Open 24hrs. Free wifi available throughout the park.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Zurab Tsereteli Museum-Studio B-1, Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 15, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 777 48 50, w ww.tsereteli.ru. ww.tsereteli.ru. Tsereteli’s working studio where he stores yet more of the paintings and sculptures that now litter  Moscow’s parks and streets is a bizarre den crammed full of the Georgian artist’s extravagant works. The main highlight here is the sculpture yard which is a forest full of colour ful statues of people, angels,religious iconography, suitcases, boots and other odds and ends. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. Admission 80-300Rbl.

Tours Ar ound Moscow Moscow City Guide, tel. (+7) 903 137 76 67, moscow-cityguide.com. Run by the ever energetic Tatyana, Moscow City Guide are great people to contact if you are looking for bespoke group tours, interpreters or just someone to help you get around the ci ty for a few hours. Some of  the most popular tours include The Mysteries of Moscow, Behind the Moscow River and Royal Estates. Tatyana can also organise mini-buses and smaller cars with th eir own drivers to help you get around town and provide interpreters to help in business meetings or trade fare events. Our favourite service is the ‘interactive’ tour - a kind of race against time Moscow treasure hunt! Q24-hour tours in English, French, German, Spanish and Italian. Theatre and circus tickets. Segway Fan, tel. (+7) 495 226 00 58, www.segwayfan.ru. A new and unique twist on the usual tours around Moscow - travelling around the city on your own stand-up motorized two-wheeler, an American invention known as Segway. Given that you can cover around 10km in just two hours, a Segway tour means you really get to see everything interesting around the city - and comfortably without even breaking a sweat. You can order tours with guides, or just have someon e who will go around with you taking pictures and of course there will always be someone pointing you in the right direction so you don’t  get lost. A lot of fun and definitely not your usual kind of  tour. Q City tour with professional tour guide 3,500Rbl. Groups of 2 to 8 people max. Individual customised tour  2,500Rbl/hour. Groups of 2 to 4 people. Prices are per person. For people over 16 years of age only, weight limitations 45Kg - 117Kg. Tours can be ordered online or by phone.

August - September 2012

SightSeeing Gorky Memorial Museum B-2, Ul. Malaya Nikitskaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli. ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nou veau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky  Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about  the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky  to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free.

moscow inyourpo cket com

Kolomenskoye Museum Estate Pr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskoye, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www. mgomz.ru. Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums and dads, old grandmothers and young  hipsters alike. The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry  trees in the warmer months, the abundance of seating and the wafting aroma of sizzling  shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood. Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can be identified in the scattering of different  museums like the beekeeping house and the many churches. It’s also UNESCO liste d. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride . Just  don’t bring any beer b ought from shops outside of the park or  you could end up getting friendly with the police and making  a deposit to their own beer fund. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Museums open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admissi on to esestate is free. Admission Museum of fron t gates 300Rbl, palace 120-400Rbl. Free admission to museums every third Sun.

Moscow Zoo A-2, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 35 80, www.moscowzoo.ru. www.moscowzoo.ru.Yes, Yes, it is a Russian zoo, so don’t be surprised to find that many of  the animals are hiding indoors because they are cold in the winter. As it is a city centre zoo, there’s not a huge amount  of space for some of the bigger animals, but despite its location Moscow Zoo feels large, green and peaceful. Meerkats, monkeys and dolphins seem happy in their enclosures and often show off for the audiences, while the pond has much exotic bird life to look out for. Kids will love it, especially the reptile house (entranc e costs extra) and will surely pester you all day long to have a ride on one of the merr y-go-rounds and a box of popcorn. As well as polar bears, wolves and a Siberian tiger, they also have other big game such as ele phants, lions, giraffes and zebras. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 10:00 - 17:00 (during winter period). Closed Mon. Admission 0-200Rbl.

Neskuchny Sad Pushkinskaya nab., MLeninsky Prospekt. When you come out of Leninsky prospket metro, head straight down towards the river keeping to the right of  the bridge to find one of Moscow’s oldest parks - the ‘Not  Boring’ gardens. Once an area filled with the summer palaces of Moscow’s wealthiest nobles, it is now a charming slice of  wildlife in the city centre. The park mostly consists of pristine  forest, dotted with old summer pavilions, dilapidated s tately  homes and churches, ponds and quaint little stone bridges. It’s a great place for bird watching and if your legs have the stamina it is also a great starting point b efore heading up towards the Sparrow Hills (Vorboyevy (Vorboyevy Gory) which provide a great panoramic view of Moscow or along into the famous Gorky Park. SokolnikiUl. Sokolnichesky val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 499 268 60 11, www.park-sokolniki.ru. One of Moscow’s oldest parks is named after the falcon hunts conducted by the Tsars (a sokol is a falcon). In the warmer  months, amusement rides are found here, including a ferris wheel from which there is a great view. There’s also bike rental so you can explore the park’s depth on two wheels. In 2012 Sokolniki will be getting a new look as it focuses on offering better sports facilities for its guests with tennis courts, football pitches and volleyball areas. They’ve also recently opened an open-air beach, outdoor swimming pool and open-air theatre. Q Open 24hrs. Entrance is free. K

The Golden Ring Famous for their monasteries, ancient old-Rus style Kremlins and market squares, wooden architecture and fresh country air, the villages of Moscow’s so-called Golden Ring are certainly worth escaping the city for. The historic Golden Ring towns can be roughly split in to two clusters; Vladimir and Suzdal to the east of Moscow and Sergiev Posad, Posad, Rostov Veliky and Yaroslavl to the north-east along the Yaroslavl highway. If you do not  have much time, the most easily accessible Golden Ring  town is the ancient monastery town of Sergiev Posad, which can be visited in a day trip. Travelling to any of the other towns really requires staying overnight. Yaroslavl is the furthest Golden Ring town from Moscow, but is accessible by direct train. A trip to Suzdal requires a train and a bus journey, but the e ffort is well worth it to see this ‘jewel’ of the Golden Ring. You can find more detailed information and a full guide to the Golden Ring towns of Sergiev Posad, Rostov Veliky, Yaroslavl, Yaroslavl, Suzdal and Vladimir at our website russia. inyourpocket.com where you can also download a pdf  instant guide to the region.

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Tsaritsyno Ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Commissioned by  Catherine th e Great as an out of town palac e in 1775, Tsarit syno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architec t, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years, it has become a fashionable country estate, a favourite place for  locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins and sinc e the 1980s the estate has b een undergoing renovations and is looking  wonderfully bright and colourful with its new lick of paint and blooming flower beds. Q Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission park free. Museums 0-300Rbl. UK

Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills), MVorobyevy Gory, www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of  Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get  an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the gold en onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education  for the people; Moscow State State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest b ehind it are frightfully  unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the chairlift is occasionally open. In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling.

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SightSeeing River Cruises City Boat Tour A-3, Boats leave from the river stop outside the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, just north of the Bogdana Khmelniktskogo (crystal) Bridge, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 60 70, www.cckship.ru. An hour and half’s tour along the Moscow River  takes you past all the main Moscow sights making it a must see excursion for any city visi tor. Boats make stops at different sightseeing points along the way, including  Moscow University - Sparrow Hills, the Neskuchny Gardens, and the Kremlin. If you want to get off, explore the area, and hop back on another boat later, you’d better  buy a full-day pass, or else, once you disembark, that  is the end of your ride. The tour begins at the crystal pedestrian bridge near Kievsky train station and ends at  the Novospassky Bridge. The Novospassky monastery  makes an enchanting end to the trip before hopping on the metro at Volgogradsky Prospekt at the end of the big street by the same name. You can also board from Novospassky and end at Kievsky. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Admission adults 400Rbl, children 150Rbl. All day passes with unlimited stops, 800Rbl, children 200Rbl. Navigation  from April to October and boats lea ve every 15 minutes.

Vodnoe Taxi C-3, Boats leave from the pier at Luzhkov bridge, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 589 47 80, vodnoetaxi.ru. Don’t want to share your boat cruise around Moscow with dozens of other tourists? Vodnoe taxi is the perfec t solution. You can hire hire your own boat for one or two hour round trips and even get a guide or some food and drinks on-board too for an extra fee. The cheapest  prices start at 5,000-6,000Rbl an hour for a 20 person boat and the route takes you past all the main sights. Q Boats can accommodate between 20 and 50 people.

SightSeeing Gorky Memorial Museum B-2, Ul. Malaya Nikitskaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli. ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nou veau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky  Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about  the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky  to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki B-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.r www.tolstoymuseum.ru. u.The The house where Tolstoy Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or  Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the  family spent their time, inc luding displays and exhibi ts of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last  Fri of the month. Admission 60-200Rbl.

Parks and Gardens

Writer’s museums

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs)Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre. ru. This massive complex of pavillion buildings whose glory  is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great  collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what  is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet  republic sits at the heart of th e complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet  republic and its achievements. Come weekends it is crawling  with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look  out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -19:00. Entrance to pavilions from 0 - 500Rbl.

Chekhov Museum B-2, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, ww w.goslit-

Gorky Park B-4, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury,

muz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny  metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that  the music lover, who lived with his mot her, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal de dication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions  following th e life of the great write r, a surprising numb er of  photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 50-100Rbl.

tel. (+7) 499 237 12 66, ww w.park-gorkogo.com w.park-gorkogo.com.. The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011  and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent  near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the An dreyevsky  dreyevsky  bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC. There’s usually  something special happening every weekend, with many  events especially marketed at kids. Q Open 24hrs. Free wifi available throughout the park.

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Kolomenskoye Museum Estate Pr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskoye, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www. mgomz.ru. Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums and dads, old grandmothers and young  hipsters alike. The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry  trees in the warmer months, the abundance of seating and the wafting aroma of sizzling  shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood. Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can be identified in the scattering of different  museums like the beekeeping house and the many churches. It’s also UNESCO liste d. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride . Just  don’t bring any beer b ought from shops outside of the park or  you could end up getting friendly with the police and making  a deposit to their own beer fund. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Museums open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admissi on to esestate is free. Admission Museum of fron t gates 300Rbl, palace 120-400Rbl. Free admission to museums every third Sun.

Moscow Zoo A-2, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 35 80, www.moscowzoo.ru. www.moscowzoo.ru.Yes, Yes, it is a Russian zoo, so don’t be surprised to find that many of  the animals are hiding indoors because they are cold in the winter. As it is a city centre zoo, there’s not a huge amount  of space for some of the bigger animals, but despite its location Moscow Zoo feels large, green and peaceful. Meerkats, monkeys and dolphins seem happy in their enclosures and often show off for the audiences, while the pond has much exotic bird life to look out for. Kids will love it, especially the reptile house (entranc e costs extra) and will surely pester you all day long to have a ride on one of the merr y-go-rounds and a box of popcorn. As well as polar bears, wolves and a Siberian tiger, they also have other big game such as ele phants, lions, giraffes and zebras. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 10:00 - 17:00 (during winter period). Closed Mon. Admission 0-200Rbl.

Neskuchny Sad Pushkinskaya nab., MLeninsky Prospekt. When you come out of Leninsky prospket metro, head straight down towards the river keeping to the right of  the bridge to find one of Moscow’s oldest parks - the ‘Not  Boring’ gardens. Once an area filled with the summer palaces of Moscow’s wealthiest nobles, it is now a charming slice of  wildlife in the city centre. The park mostly consists of pristine  forest, dotted with old summer pavilions, dilapidated s tately  homes and churches, ponds and quaint little stone bridges. It’s a great place for bird watching and if your legs have the stamina it is also a great starting point b efore heading up towards the Sparrow Hills (Vorboyevy (Vorboyevy Gory) which provide a great panoramic view of Moscow or along into the famous Gorky Park. SokolnikiUl. Sokolnichesky val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 499 268 60 11, www.park-sokolniki.ru. One of Moscow’s oldest parks is named after the falcon hunts conducted by the Tsars (a sokol is a falcon). In the warmer  months, amusement rides are found here, including a ferris wheel from which there is a great view. There’s also bike rental so you can explore the park’s depth on two wheels. In 2012 Sokolniki will be getting a new look as it focuses on offering better sports facilities for its guests with tennis courts, football pitches and volleyball areas. They’ve also recently opened an open-air beach, outdoor swimming pool and open-air theatre. Q Open 24hrs. Entrance is free. K

The Golden Ring Famous for their monasteries, ancient old-Rus style Kremlins and market squares, wooden architecture and fresh country air, the villages of Moscow’s so-called Golden Ring are certainly worth escaping the city for. The historic Golden Ring towns can be roughly split in to two clusters; Vladimir and Suzdal to the east of Moscow and Sergiev Posad, Posad, Rostov Veliky and Yaroslavl to the north-east along the Yaroslavl highway. If you do not  have much time, the most easily accessible Golden Ring  town is the ancient monastery town of Sergiev Posad, which can be visited in a day trip. Travelling to any of the other towns really requires staying overnight. Yaroslavl is the furthest Golden Ring town from Moscow, but is accessible by direct train. A trip to Suzdal requires a train and a bus journey, but the e ffort is well worth it to see this ‘jewel’ of the Golden Ring. You can find more detailed information and a full guide to the Golden Ring towns of Sergiev Posad, Rostov Veliky, Yaroslavl, Yaroslavl, Suzdal and Vladimir at our website russia. inyourpocket.com where you can also download a pdf  instant guide to the region.

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VeLiky noVGorod

Tsaritsyno Ul. Dolskaya 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Commissioned by  Catherine th e Great as an out of town palac e in 1775, Tsarit syno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architec t, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years, it has become a fashionable country estate, a favourite place for  locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins and sinc e the 1980s the estate has b een undergoing renovations and is looking  wonderfully bright and colourful with its new lick of paint and blooming flower beds. Q Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission park free. Museums 0-300Rbl. UK

Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills), MVorobyevy Gory, www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of  Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get  an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the gold en onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education  for the people; Moscow State State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest b ehind it are frightfully  unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the chairlift is occasionally open. In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling.

August - September 2012

VeLiky noVGorod Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162

Veliky Novgorod N ovgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by mod ern standards a very  small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kiev took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky  Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alon gside its  famous Kremlin - which matches Mos cow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and mona steries in the region to be explored.

Veliky Novgorod Kremlin The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first  records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of  heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Getting There

225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru.A www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short  sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, althou gh a little frilly, look far more cared  for than many ot her similarly priced hotels in Novgoro d and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge.

Eating and drinking 

HALGKDCW hhh

Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.

Yurievskoe Yurievsk oe Podvorie Yurievskoe Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

Sightseeing 

8162 946 060, tk-podvorie.ru. This newly built tourist  resort has the feel of a Swiss chalet to it upstairs, with a large pine sitting area with board games and rooms that look out  onto the countryside. Downstairs there‘s a huge restaurant  set up to look like a Russian log cabin. Although it‘s out of  town, it is opposite the popular Vitoslavlitsy open air museum and there are plenty of activities to choose from ranging   from tenni s, bike riding and f ishing, all the way to yach ting  and quad-biking. To get there take bus number 7 or 7a from the town. Journey takes about 20 minutes. Q16 rooms (10 doubles 2,100 - 3,200Rbl, 6 suites 3,200 - 5,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Visa support support 800Rbl, registration for free.

THA6ILGBKW hhh

Ilmen lake

There is one daily train to Veliky Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky station and the overnight   journey takes approximately 9 hours. It’s also possible to travel from Moscow by bus (journey time around 8 hours) although takin g the night train will be a much more comfortable experience.

(+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s  just streets ahead of the other morepedestrian dining options options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of  salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W

Yurievskoe Yurievsk oe Podvorie Yurievskoe Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162 946 066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what  looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very  popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, bu t they do offer a lot of Novgorodian Novgorodian specialitie s such as local soup recipes and ‘sbi ten‘ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are defini tely worth making the effort   for. A very good value place to eat before or after visi ting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding  countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €. PTAULEGBSW

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit  the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic beverage Sbiten. QTo get  there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

Where to stay  Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod.Novgorod’s velikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and welcomed in the jubilee wi th yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark  look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park  Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement  is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Art Club down there too. Acc ess to the large swimming pool and saunas are included in the price as well as a children’s entertainment cen tre. To To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

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VeLiky noVGorod

VeLiky noVGorod Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162

Veliky Novgorod N ovgorod Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by mod ern standards a very  small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kiev took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky  Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alon gside its  famous Kremlin - which matches Mos cow’s in both size and age - there are also more than 50 churches and mona steries in the region to be explored.

Sightseeing  Veliky Novgorod Kremlin The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first  records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of  heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Getting There

225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru.A www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short  sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, althou gh a little frilly, look far more cared  for than many ot her similarly priced hotels in Novgoro d and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (49 singles 1,950 - 2,200Rbl, 56 doubles 2,700 - 2,900Rbl, 15 suites 4,500 - 5,000Rbl, 2 Duplex 8,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. Visa support 800Rbl, registration free of charge.

Eating and drinking 

HALGKDCW hhh

Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.

Yurievskoe Yurievsk oe Podvorie Yurievskoe Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162 946 060, tk-podvorie.ru. This newly built tourist  resort has the feel of a Swiss chalet to it upstairs, with a large pine sitting area with board games and rooms that look out  onto the countryside. Downstairs there‘s a huge restaurant  set up to look like a Russian log cabin. Although it‘s out of  town, it is opposite the popular Vitoslavlitsy open air museum and there are plenty of activities to choose from ranging   from tenni s, bike riding and f ishing, all the way to yach ting  and quad-biking. To get there take bus number 7 or 7a from the town. Journey takes about 20 minutes. Q16 rooms (10 doubles 2,100 - 3,200Rbl, 6 suites 3,200 - 5,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Visa support support 800Rbl, registration for free.

THA6ILGBKW hhh

Ilmen lake

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There is one daily train to Veliky Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky station and the overnight   journey takes approximately 9 hours. It’s also possible to travel from Moscow by bus (journey time around 8 hours) although takin g the night train will be a much more comfortable experience.

(+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you‘ve been to this place you won‘t want to eat anywhere else - it‘s  just streets ahead of the other morepedestrian dining options options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don‘t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of  salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). W

Yurievskoe Yurievsk oe Podvorie Yurievskoe Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) 8162 946 066, tk-podvorie.ru/en/. Seated inside what  looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you‘ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very  popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, bu t they do offer a lot of Novgorodian Novgorodian specialitie s such as local soup recipes and ‘sbi ten‘ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are defini tely worth making the effort   for. A very good value place to eat before or after visi ting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding  countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  €. PTAULEGBSW

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit  the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. There’s also a great Russian restaurant opposite the museum called Yurievskie Podvorie which does a good line in local specialties such as the mildly alcoholic beverage Sbiten. QTo get  there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Admission to the Vitoslavitsy museum costs 90-150Rbl, entrance to the monastery is free.

Where to stay  Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 8162 940 910, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod.Novgorod’s velikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. The hotel celebrated 20 years in Novgorod this winter and welcomed in the jubilee wi th yet more improvements as the hotel is brought up to the bright and colourful Park Inn trademark  look. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park  Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement  is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s now also the Night Art Club down there too. Acc ess to the large swimming pool and saunas are included in the price as well as a children’s entertainment cen tre. To To get there from the city centre take bus no. 4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (23 suites 8,500Rbl, 202 Single/double 4,200 - 5,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh

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See St. PeterSBurG

See St. PeterSBurG

Climb the colonnade of St. Isaacs. One of the tallest  buildings in the city centre, when it’s a clear day there is no better view than the one found at the golden dome of the city’s biggest cathedral. Walk along the rivers and canals. To avoid traffic and allow for the odd opportunity to sit down and ponder the beauty of it all, walk the city’s canals and embankments, where the St. Petersburg’s magical architecture and history are all reflec ted in the water. water. For those who prefer an energetic tour, head out on a bike and take advantage of  St. Petersburg’s flat terrain. Russia’s capital capital city Moscow may be b uzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for  a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year. Here are our top ideas  for a perfect short break in Russia’s ‘cultural capital’ for for after  you’ve done the Hermitage. For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com at  st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com Take a boat trip. Whether you decide to take a guided boat  tour around the canals during the day or head out into the Neva river at night to watch the city’s bridges open, you just haven’t  seen St. Petersburg unless you have seen it from a boat. Stroll around the Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress, with the towering golden spire of the Peter and Paul Cathedral at its centre is the heart of the city. As well as the cathedral the fortress houses numerous museums explaining the city’s history and there are stunning river vistas to behold from the  fortress b each.

Luxury Night Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the northern capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg  every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experien ce. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary  snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot  breakfast and cof fee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your be d and they will come to you. If you want  to wake up in St. Petersburg truly fresh i n the morning, it’s certainly worth the money. The Megapolis train leaves Moscow’s Leningradsky  station at 00:54, arriving in St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky  station at 09:00. Trains return everyday to Moscow leaving  at 00:20. Tickets can be bought from any ticket retailer, by phone or onlin e. Reservations tel. (+7) 495 364 41 11, www.megapolis-te.ru

Moscow In Your Pocket

August - September 2012

Explore the literary backstreets. Check out the areas behind Sennaya ploschad between the Griboed ova and Moika canals, the setting of Dostoevsky’ most famous novels and also for some of Gogol’s more amusing short stories. St. Petersburg’s beauty is never far from something uglier and the city’s crumbling old facades and mysterious courtyards are very than romantic.

Hotels Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg AirportStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - LigovskyD-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh CubahostelC-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. Demidov C-2, Sredny pr. VO, 28/29, apt. 25, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 70 64, www.demidovhotel.ru. W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. hhhhh

Sightseeing  Hermitage C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, Admiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571  84 46. AUK

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography)C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-

Hotel Booking

seum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entran ce to fortress is free. ULK Church of the Saviour on the Spilt BloodD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, ww w.cathedral.ru. w.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.ka zansky-spb.ru. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. AdmisAdmission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. St. Isaac’s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. ColonColon nade 150-300Rbl.

Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, MPr. Veteranov, tel. (+7) 812 300 48 10, www.hotel-in-petersburg.com Offering hotel booking  services for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting mogul in search of a  fi ve sta r ho tel , an in de pendent traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term flat. They also provide visa support, can arrange transport or hire cars for their clien ts and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Baltic Hotels Aliance

Getting to St. Petersburg There are dozens of night trains travelling every day  between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addi tion there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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See St. PeterSBurG

See St. PeterSBurG

Climb the colonnade of St. Isaacs. One of the tallest  buildings in the city centre, when it’s a clear day there is no better view than the one found at the golden dome of the city’s biggest cathedral. Walk along the rivers and canals. To avoid traffic and allow for the odd opportunity to sit down and ponder the beauty of it all, walk the city’s canals and embankments, where the St. Petersburg’s magical architecture and history are all reflec ted in the water. water. For those who prefer an energetic tour, head out on a bike and take advantage of  St. Petersburg’s flat terrain. Russia’s capital capital city Moscow may be b uzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for  a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year. Here are our top ideas  for a perfect short break in Russia’s ‘cultural capital’ for for after  you’ve done the Hermitage. For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com at  st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com Take a boat trip. Whether you decide to take a guided boat  tour around the canals during the day or head out into the Neva river at night to watch the city’s bridges open, you just haven’t  seen St. Petersburg unless you have seen it from a boat. Stroll around the Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress, with the towering golden spire of the Peter and Paul Cathedral at its centre is the heart of the city. As well as the cathedral the fortress houses numerous museums explaining the city’s history and there are stunning river vistas to behold from the  fortress b each.

Luxury Night Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the northern capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg  every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experien ce. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary  snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot  breakfast and cof fee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your be d and they will come to you. If you want  to wake up in St. Petersburg truly fresh i n the morning, it’s certainly worth the money. The Megapolis train leaves Moscow’s Leningradsky  station at 00:54, arriving in St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky  station at 09:00. Trains return everyday to Moscow leaving  at 00:20. Tickets can be bought from any ticket retailer, by phone or onlin e. Reservations tel. (+7) 495 364 41 11, www.megapolis-te.ru

Explore the literary backstreets. Check out the areas behind Sennaya ploschad between the Griboed ova and Moika canals, the setting of Dostoevsky’ most famous novels and also for some of Gogol’s more amusing short stories. St. Petersburg’s beauty is never far from something uglier and the city’s crumbling old facades and mysterious courtyards are very than romantic.

Hotels Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel B-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg AirportStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - LigovskyD-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh CubahostelC-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. Demidov C-2, Sredny pr. VO, 28/29, apt. 25, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 70 64, www.demidovhotel.ru. W St. Petersburg C-2, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. com. hhhhh

Sightseeing  Hermitage C/D-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, Admiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571  84 46. AUK

Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography)C-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. kunstkamera.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-

Hotel Booking

seum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entran ce to fortress is free. ULK Church of the Saviour on the Spilt BloodD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, ww w.cathedral.ru. w.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral C-2, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.ka zansky-spb.ru. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. AdmisAdmission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. St. Isaac’s Cathedral C-2, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. ColonColon nade 150-300Rbl.

Pr. Veteranov 147, lit B, MPr. Veteranov, tel. (+7) 812 300 48 10, www.hotel-in-petersburg.com Offering hotel booking  services for any budget, whether you’re a jet-setting mogul in search of a  fi ve sta r ho tel , an in de pendent traveler seeking a hostel or a family in need of a short-term flat. They also provide visa support, can arrange transport or hire cars for their clien ts and organise tours in and around the city. Essentially, all of your travel concerns are taken care of by just one company.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

There are dozens of night trains travelling every day  between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addi tion there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Moscovites were born to shop. It’s just that for a long time, there wasn’t anything to buy. Different century, different story....

Bookshops BookhunterD-2, Krivokolenny per. 9, bldg. 1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 03 22, www.bookhunter.ru. Located a short walk from the Chisty Prudy metro station, this handy little bookstore is chock full with b ooks. Fiction  from around the world, history and psych ology are all wellcovered subjects. The store also has a wide selection of  English teaching material and large coffee table art and design books. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Gifts and Souvenirs Prosto Tak D-2, Ul. Zabelina 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting  selection of t-shirts, badges and bags that make more offbeat souvenirs than the usual things to be found around Red Square. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAKW

Stary Arbat В-2, Ul. Arbat, Arbatskaya. For decades the old Arbat has been one of Moscow’s most famous streets, loved these days more simply because it is pedestrianised than for its architecture which has been slowly modernised and chopped up over the years. The whole long street is lined with fast food chains like Mcdonalds, Starbucks and the Russian Muu Muu and souvenir shops with men dressed like boyars outside inviting you to enter and buy their Russian dolls, McLenin t-shirts and embroidered linen. In warmer months vendors await outside too offering paintings and made-inChina antiques. Everyone here speaks English and prices are sometimes high as it’s notoriously on every tour guide’s trail.

Vernissage v Izmailovo Izmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 31, www. moscow-vernisage.com.This flea market is the place to go moscow-vernisage.com.This  for your Soviet ki tsch souvenirs and a li ttle bit of e very thing  else. It’s huge and rambling, fille d with Russia’s best and worst  salespeople. Here you’ll find matryoshki (nesting dolls), the laquer boxes, carpets, Soviet posters, badges, tea towels and so on. There’s also a large flea market on weekend s. Bargain hard and be friendly, some of your encounters here have the potential to be the most memorable. Follow the crowds from the Partizanskaya metro station towards the kitsch Russian village. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00

Olympic Gear Bosco Sport С-2, GUM, Red Square 3, MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 620 32 15, boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket  with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. Every thing  is in the Russian team colours of white and red with the squiggle representing the Firebird of Russian fairytales. Fans of the Olympic mascot, Cheburashka (the famous and desperately cute Russian cartoon character) take note that there are at least three different sizes and two colours. White from the last Winter Olympics and Red  for the London Gam es. Also at ul. Tverskaya 4. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

Moscow In Your Pocket

Baltic Hotels Aliance

Getting to St. Petersburg

Moscow In Your Pocket

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BuSineSS directory Supermarkets Bakhtele В-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle. com. This supermarket chain from the Russian Republic of  Tatarstan specialises in Central Asian foodstuffs. The deli counters are piled high with different kinds of  plov  (meat  pilau), stuffed peppers and vine leaves and baked goods. In pelmeni  the freezer section are at least 40 different kinds of pelmeni  (dumplings) and the fruit and vegetable aisles are also well stocked with delicious goods. There’s also fresh soups to go and all the usual supermarket fodder. Also at ul. Tverskaya 22 (metro Tverskaya). Q Open 24hrs. A

• Реструктуризация бизнеса и защита активов • Налоговые и юридические консультации консультации • Холдинговые компании в Нидерландах • Легализации, апостиь и переводы «под ключ»

• Trusted tax and legal advisor • Company registration and tax compliance • Reporting and accounting • Management and duciary services • Paperwork and more for expat and family • Full cycle legalisations legalisations and legal translations

Yeliseevsky С-1, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 07 60, eliseevskiy.ru. The flagship store of nineteenth century gourmet merchandiser and importer Paul Yeliseevsky, is now home to a wonderful shop. The grand interior has b een restored to its pre-revolutionary  pre-revolutionary  glamour with gold bolsters, mirrors and sculptured mouldings. The ceilings are as high as a theatre. Stocked here, at reasonable prices are a variety of imported chocolates, biscuits and other foodie gif ts as well as stocked seafood and cheese deli counters. There’s a wine room, stocked with wines from around the world and champers, as well as a souvenirs room out the back. The atmosphere is improved by such historic surroundings and the staff don’t   follow you around like you’re abou t to pocket somethin g. Q Open 24hrs. PJA

Shopping Centres GUM С-2, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elaborate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed  from limestone, marb le and granite an d was first built in the 1890s. Stalin took over the shopping arcade in 1928, and this was the place where the body of his wife, Svetlana was displayed after her suicide. This is where the legend of her  ghost wandering the halls comes from. In 1958, it became a shopping arcade again and is today one of Moscow’s most  popular tourist sights. Toilets Toilets for those in ne ed are on the third level of the third arcade and in the basement (enter from the  first arcade close st to Red Square). Q Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PTJAK

Okhotny Ryad С-2, Maneznaya pl.1, bldg. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 8449, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of  the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for  when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 PJALKSW

Tsvetnoy Central Market С-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www. tsvetnoy.com.This tsvetnoy.com.This plush new shopping centre is a hipster’s paradise with high street brands like Mango and All Saints dominating ng the lower floors and more unique boutiques and ‘pop-up’ stores occupying the upper levels. The biggest draw of this shopping centre is the organic market on the fifth flo or. Smartly dressed market vendours deal out top quality fish, meat, baked goods and fruit and veg from their immaculate stalls while the aisles are filled with luxur y imported foodstuffs. Sushi, salads, ice-cream and fresh juices can also be picked up if you want a snack on the go. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. moscow inyourpo cket com

Visit our website at www.bvdmlaw.nl

Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capi tal and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.

Ulitsa Bolshaya Yakimanka 31, 119180 Moscow T+7 495 935 7621 [email protected]

Haaksbergweg 31 1101 BP Amsterdam T +31 20 650 9060 [email protected]

Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (Deutsch-

495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1, MPaveletskaya, Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru.

Russische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-4, 1-y Kazachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www. vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul. Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club , www.britishclub.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscowirishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

Banks

Exhibition and confer conference ence centers

Citibank C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 6, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel.

All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)С-1, Prospekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 3400, www.vvcentre.ru. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre)6566 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre Krasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, ww w.expocentr.ru.

Accountants and Consultants Deloitte B-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)

(+7) 495 775 75 75, www.citibank.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 91 00, raiffeisen.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business Clubs and assosiations Association of European Businesses C-1, Ul. Krasnoproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club (HIT Club) D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) 5y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00.

Translating and Interpreting  Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul. Nizhnaya 14, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

QOpen

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Shopping Moscovites were born to shop. It’s just that for a long time, there wasn’t anything to buy. Different century, different story....

Bookshops BookhunterD-2, Krivokolenny per. 9, bldg. 1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 03 22, www.bookhunter.ru. Located a short walk from the Chisty Prudy metro station, this handy little bookstore is chock full with b ooks. Fiction  from around the world, history and psych ology are all wellcovered subjects. The store also has a wide selection of  English teaching material and large coffee table art and design books. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Gifts and Souvenirs Prosto Tak D-2, Ul. Zabelina 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting  selection of t-shirts, badges and bags that make more offbeat souvenirs than the usual things to be found around Red Square. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. PAKW

Stary Arbat В-2, Ul. Arbat, Arbatskaya. For decades the old Arbat has been one of Moscow’s most famous streets, loved these days more simply because it is pedestrianised than for its architecture which has been slowly modernised and chopped up over the years. The whole long street is lined with fast food chains like Mcdonalds, Starbucks and the Russian Muu Muu and souvenir shops with men dressed like boyars outside inviting you to enter and buy their Russian dolls, McLenin t-shirts and embroidered linen. In warmer months vendors await outside too offering paintings and made-inChina antiques. Everyone here speaks English and prices are sometimes high as it’s notoriously on every tour guide’s trail.

Vernissage v Izmailovo Izmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 31, www. moscow-vernisage.com.This flea market is the place to go moscow-vernisage.com.This  for your Soviet ki tsch souvenirs and a li ttle bit of e very thing  else. It’s huge and rambling, fille d with Russia’s best and worst  salespeople. Here you’ll find matryoshki (nesting dolls), the laquer boxes, carpets, Soviet posters, badges, tea towels and so on. There’s also a large flea market on weekend s. Bargain hard and be friendly, some of your encounters here have the potential to be the most memorable. Follow the crowds from the Partizanskaya metro station towards the kitsch Russian village. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00

Olympic Gear Bosco Sport С-2, GUM, Red Square 3, MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 620 32 15, boscosport.ru. The one-stop shop for official Russian Olympic gear and goodies. For those who lust after a shiny white and red jacket  with Russia emblazoned on, and are ready to party with more than a months wage, Bosco is your shop. Every thing  is in the Russian team colours of white and red with the squiggle representing the Firebird of Russian fairytales. Fans of the Olympic mascot, Cheburashka (the famous and desperately cute Russian cartoon character) take note that there are at least three different sizes and two colours. White from the last Winter Olympics and Red  for the London Gam es. Also at ul. Tverskaya 4. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA

BuSineSS directory Supermarkets Bakhtele В-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle. com. This supermarket chain from the Russian Republic of  Tatarstan specialises in Central Asian foodstuffs. The deli counters are piled high with different kinds of  plov  (meat  pilau), stuffed peppers and vine leaves and baked goods. In pelmeni  the freezer section are at least 40 different kinds of pelmeni  (dumplings) and the fruit and vegetable aisles are also well stocked with delicious goods. There’s also fresh soups to go and all the usual supermarket fodder. Also at ul. Tverskaya 22 (metro Tverskaya). Q Open 24hrs. A

• Реструктуризация бизнеса и защита активов • Налоговые и юридические консультации консультации • Холдинговые компании в Нидерландах • Легализации, апостиь и переводы «под ключ»

• Trusted tax and legal advisor • Company registration and tax compliance • Reporting and accounting • Management and duciary services • Paperwork and more for expat and family • Full cycle legalisations legalisations and legal translations

Yeliseevsky С-1, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 07 60, eliseevskiy.ru. The flagship store of nineteenth century gourmet merchandiser and importer Paul Yeliseevsky, is now home to a wonderful shop. The grand interior has b een restored to its pre-revolutionary  pre-revolutionary  glamour with gold bolsters, mirrors and sculptured mouldings. The ceilings are as high as a theatre. Stocked here, at reasonable prices are a variety of imported chocolates, biscuits and other foodie gif ts as well as stocked seafood and cheese deli counters. There’s a wine room, stocked with wines from around the world and champers, as well as a souvenirs room out the back. The atmosphere is improved by such historic surroundings and the staff don’t   follow you around like you’re abou t to pocket somethin g. Q Open 24hrs. PJA

Shopping Centres GUM С-2, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elaborate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed  from limestone, marb le and granite an d was first built in the 1890s. Stalin took over the shopping arcade in 1928, and this was the place where the body of his wife, Svetlana was displayed after her suicide. This is where the legend of her  ghost wandering the halls comes from. In 1958, it became a shopping arcade again and is today one of Moscow’s most  popular tourist sights. Toilets Toilets for those in ne ed are on the third level of the third arcade and in the basement (enter from the  first arcade close st to Red Square). Q Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PTJAK

Okhotny Ryad С-2, Maneznaya pl.1, bldg. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 8449, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of  the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for  when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 PJALKSW

Tsvetnoy Central Market С-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www. tsvetnoy.com.This tsvetnoy.com.This plush new shopping centre is a hipster’s paradise with high street brands like Mango and All Saints dominating ng the lower floors and more unique boutiques and ‘pop-up’ stores occupying the upper levels. The biggest draw of this shopping centre is the organic market on the fifth flo or. Smartly dressed market vendours deal out top quality fish, meat, baked goods and fruit and veg from their immaculate stalls while the aisles are filled with luxur y imported foodstuffs. Sushi, salads, ice-cream and fresh juices can also be picked up if you want a snack on the go. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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Ulitsa Bolshaya Yakimanka 31, 119180 Moscow T+7 495 935 7621 [email protected]

Visit our website at www.bvdmlaw.nl

Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capi tal and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.

Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (Deutsch-

495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1, MPaveletskaya, Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru.

Banks

Exhibition and confer conference ence centers

Citibank C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 6, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel.

All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)С-1, Prospekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 3400, www.vvcentre.ru. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre)6566 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre Krasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, ww w.expocentr.ru.

Accountants and Consultants Deloitte B-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)

(+7) 495 775 75 75, www.citibank.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Ul. Petrovka 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 91 00, raiffeisen.ru. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business Clubs and assosiations Association of European Businesses C-1, Ul. Krasnoproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce D-2, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club (HIT Club) D-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) 5y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00.

Translating and Interpreting  Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul. Nizhnaya 14, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

QOpen

August - September 2012

LifestyLe directory

max.ru. Also at Paveletskaya pl. 2, bldg. 2 (Business centre Paveletskaya Plaza). QOpen 24 hrs..

Just as living costs might b e high in Moscow, so is liveability. This is one of the most popular and rewarding expat d estinations. If you’re looking to expand your network or are lo oking   for service s that remind you of home, take a look here. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at [email protected] at [email protected]..

Real Estate and Relocation

Expats Clubs

Intermark Relocation В-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7, bldg.1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.

American Women’s Organisation, awomoscow@

intermarkrelocation.ru.When relocating abroad, setting up intermarkrelocation.ru.When a home is a key priority to help make sure that you se ttle into expat life comfortably and this British relocation consultancy   firm have been helping out foreigners who who are moving to Russia for more than 16 years. They promise a comprehensive service dealing with all elements of documentation and rental leases as well as offering invaluable advice and experience on what areas of the city are desirable for living in and what  they offer in terms of amenities and services. They also offer  ‘settling in assistance’ (helping you sort out those basics like your driving licence, furniture, insurance etc), schooling  services, tenancy management and departure packages for  when it’s time to move on. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A

Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI)

Choosing Where To Live

Printing and Copying 

North Moscow: Leningradsky prospekt

Copy Max В-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 09 00, ww w.copy-

gmail.com, www.awomoscow.org. tel. (+7) 916 825 3352, [email protected], www. gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club , [email protected], www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. Dutch Community, [email protected], [email protected], ww w. nederlandse-vereniging-moskou.ru. International Women’s Club, iwcmembership@gmail. com, www.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations , www.internations.org/expats/home/ russia/moscow. Moscow Hash House Harriers, tel. (+7) 985 364 99 36, moscowharriers.itgo.com. Moscow International Choir, moscow.international. [email protected].

Tax and Legal Services

MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) www.moskultinfo.de. Monthly newsletter 

Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal ServicesC-3, Ul. Bolshaya Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7)

 for the German expat communi ty 

495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Ser vices specialisists. Deal with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax compliance and company registration, full cyle legislations and legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary  services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

site-moskva-accueil.org.

Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club), www. Nigerian Community Russia, nigeriancommunity@ yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru. Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87, www.rcmi.ru.

SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association), [email protected], www.swea.org.

Religious Services Big Choral Synagogue D-2, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception Conception A-1, Ul. Malaya Gruzinskaya 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, ww w.catedra.ru.

Evangelical Evangeli cal Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul D-2, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 58 20, peterpaul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque D-3, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 28, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 945 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya GoraUl. Minskaya 2b (Poklonnaya Gora), MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 502 19 06, www.mmechet.ru. Memorial Synagogue on Poklonnaya Gora Kutuzovsky pr. 53, MPark Podedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 07, www.poklonnaya.ru. Moscow Buddhist Centre C-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 61 46, www.mantra.ru.

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MPloshad Ilicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy B-2, Ul. Bol. Bronnaya 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www. bronnaya.ru.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Haaksbergweg 31 1101 BP Amsterdam T +31 20 650 9060 [email protected]

Russische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-4, 1-y Kazachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www. vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul. Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The British Business Club , www.britishclub.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscowirishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

BuSineSS directory

There are three campuses of the British International school as well as the Anglo-American School which neighbours the modern residential compounds Chaika and Pokrovsky Hills. Prices of apartments here can be as expensive as in the centre, especially if they are close to schools. Most apartments are in Stalinist era buildings, although there are also a lot of modern residential complexes with underground parking and great  infrastructure which can be a more affordable alternative to compounds for families. Popular residential buildings: Triumph Palace (Sokol metro), the tallest residential building in Europe, has several playgrounds, underground parking and a fitness centre. Alye Parusa (Schukinskaya metro) is a complex of several high-rise buildings on the Moscow river with playgrounds, fitness club, yacht  club. Sokolinoe Gnezdo is a complex of four secure high-rise buildings with underground parking right next  to Sokol metro station. What the residents say: ‘We chose Alye Parusa because we have three active young children and wanted to be close to open spaces. Moving from the English countryside I didn’t want to be living in the city centre. The metro is a 7 minute walk away so my husband gets to the office easily by metro. My younger kids go to the schools nearby and my eldest gets picked up from the building by the international school’s bus service.’ Written in collaboration with Intermark Relocation B-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarkrelocation.ru

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moscow.inyourpocket.com

Exporting to Russia chelnoki ) were In the roaring nineties, suitcase traders ( chelnoki  a common sight at railway stations and even in airports. Airfare was still relatively cheap and people would finance their trip to Turkey, India or even Poland by exporting cigarettes and vodka and importing sunglasses, electronic gadgets and other must-haves not available in Russia. Since then, Russia has experienced a retail boom and shopping trips to Europe are no longer a must for the demanding Russian or foreign shopaholic. But now and then, you may feel sorry that your favourite products are not available in Russia and have a great idea, like “let’s start importing organic T-shirts”. How many times have I listened to Dutch visitors who were convinced that importing deep-frying pans to Russia would be a goldmine! Here are a few things to keep in mind when creating your business case: 1. Be aware of projecting your own preferences preferences on the Russian consumer. Take some samples first (in your  hand luggage, not more than 50 kilo’s though or you will pay big money at the customs) and show them to unprejudiced consumers and corporate customers; 2. It is a long way. way. With the bulk of consumer goods goods now being manufactured in China and the Far East, this is still transported by sea cargo to Europe and from ther e by ship, rail or truck to Russia. The shortest way, by rail  from China to Russi a, is more expen sive. 3. The promise that that you can deliver goods to to a retailer  or wholesaler does not make a deal. You must have the goods in stock in Russia. As you may have noticed, Russians are very pragmatic people and they will not put  their money on what may be in a month, but on what will be today or tomorrow; 4. Russia has only only just very recently entered into into the WTO and a lot of laws have to be brought in conformity  with this. This is going to take a while. Everything that is imported in Russia must first be cer tified to prove it is not a danger to public health and safety; 5. Most finished products are subject to customs duduties in the amount of 5-15% levied, in principle, on the invoice value of the goods plus transport costs. The lower the invoice value, the lower the customs duties, and a too high customs value will price your product  out of the market. If you l ower your customs value, the profit to be made in Russia will increase. Only if you have a Russian entity (which takes time to set up and costs at least 10,000 Euro per year to maintain), the profit is yours; 6. Russia’s retail sector is not consolidated yet yet but the big retailers, who can mean volume for the sale of your  product, will squeeze every penny of credi t space out of  you and penalize delays heavily. By supplying to one of  the big chains you effectively become a downside-riskparticipating-investor participating-investor in their business. All these factors together may frighten the faint-hearted, but if you’ve come to Russia these small problems will not put you off. If you want to start on a small scale, an “informal web shop” may be an alternative: check out  the Russian social network vkontakte and you will see groups with thousands of members which consist of  people asking other people to buy a specific ar ticle in a store and then sending it by regular parcel mail to the recipient in a distant village in some Russian province. Because of its absolute transparency (order fulfillment  is completely public), this system works. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

August - September 2012

59

58

LifestyLe directory

BuSineSS directory

max.ru. Also at Paveletskaya pl. 2, bldg. 2 (Business centre Paveletskaya Plaza). QOpen 24 hrs..

Just as living costs might b e high in Moscow, so is liveability. This is one of the most popular and rewarding expat d estinations. If you’re looking to expand your network or are lo oking   for service s that remind you of home, take a look here. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at [email protected] at [email protected]..

Real Estate and Relocation

Expats Clubs

Intermark Relocation В-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7, bldg.1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.

American Women’s Organisation, awomoscow@

intermarkrelocation.ru.When relocating abroad, setting up intermarkrelocation.ru.When a home is a key priority to help make sure that you se ttle into expat life comfortably and this British relocation consultancy   firm have been helping out foreigners who who are moving to Russia for more than 16 years. They promise a comprehensive service dealing with all elements of documentation and rental leases as well as offering invaluable advice and experience on what areas of the city are desirable for living in and what  they offer in terms of amenities and services. They also offer  ‘settling in assistance’ (helping you sort out those basics like your driving licence, furniture, insurance etc), schooling  services, tenancy management and departure packages for  when it’s time to move on. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A

Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI)

Choosing Where To Live

Printing and Copying 

North Moscow: Leningradsky prospekt

Copy Max В-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 09 00, ww w.copy-

There are three campuses of the British International school as well as the Anglo-American School which neighbours the modern residential compounds Chaika and Pokrovsky Hills. Prices of apartments here can be as expensive as in the centre, especially if they are close to schools. Most apartments are in Stalinist era buildings, although there are also a lot of modern residential complexes with underground parking and great  infrastructure which can be a more affordable alternative to compounds for families. Popular residential buildings: Triumph Palace (Sokol metro), the tallest residential building in Europe, has several playgrounds, underground parking and a fitness centre. Alye Parusa (Schukinskaya metro) is a complex of several high-rise buildings on the Moscow river with playgrounds, fitness club, yacht  club. Sokolinoe Gnezdo is a complex of four secure high-rise buildings with underground parking right next  to Sokol metro station. What the residents say: ‘We chose Alye Parusa because we have three active young children and wanted to be close to open spaces. Moving from the English countryside I didn’t want to be living in the city centre. The metro is a 7 minute walk away so my husband gets to the office easily by metro. My younger kids go to the schools nearby and my eldest gets picked up from the building by the international school’s bus service.’ Written in collaboration with Intermark Relocation B-3, Kropotkinsky per. 7, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarkrelocation.ru

gmail.com, www.awomoscow.org. tel. (+7) 916 825 3352, [email protected], www. gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club , [email protected], www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. Dutch Community, [email protected], [email protected], ww w. nederlandse-vereniging-moskou.ru. International Women’s Club, iwcmembership@gmail. com, www.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations , www.internations.org/expats/home/ russia/moscow. Moscow Hash House Harriers, tel. (+7) 985 364 99 36, moscowharriers.itgo.com. Moscow International Choir, moscow.international. [email protected].

Tax and Legal Services

MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) www.moskultinfo.de. Monthly newsletter 

Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal ServicesC-3, Ul. Bolshaya Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7)

 for the German expat communi ty 

495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Ser vices specialisists. Deal with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax compliance and company registration, full cyle legislations and legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary  services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

site-moskva-accueil.org.

Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club), www. Nigerian Community Russia, nigeriancommunity@ yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru. Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87, www.rcmi.ru.

SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association), [email protected], www.swea.org.

Religious Services Big Choral Synagogue D-2, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception Conception A-1, Ul. Malaya Gruzinskaya 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, ww w.catedra.ru.

Evangelical Evangeli cal Lutheran Church of St. Peter and Paul D-2, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 58 20, peterpaul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque D-3, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 28, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 945 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya GoraUl. Minskaya 2b (Poklonnaya Gora), MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 502 19 06, www.mmechet.ru. Memorial Synagogue on Poklonnaya Gora Kutuzovsky pr. 53, MPark Podedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 07, www.poklonnaya.ru. Moscow Buddhist Centre C-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 61 46, www.mantra.ru.

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MPloshad Ilicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy B-2, Ul. Bol. Bronnaya 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www. bronnaya.ru.

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Moscow Village Fete St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. Moscow’s Anglican church St. standrewsmoscow.org.Moscow’s standrewsmoscow.org. Andrew’s, together with the Moscow British Business Club, will again host its annual Village Fete at the church grounds in aid of the local charity Taganka Children’s Fund. In traditional British style there will be games and competitions, raffles, crafts, food, music and fun for  all the family. Entrance costs 200Rbl. The event takes place on Saturday 15.09 starting a t 14:00.

International Women’s Club Every month the International Women’s Club (IWC) in Moscow get together to unite different expat women living in Moscow. The IWC organise regular informal coffee mornings on Tuesdays and Saturdays where newcomers can come down and have a chat and me et  new people. Upcoming dates for the coffee mornings are 04.08, 14.08 and 01.09 at Le Pain Quotidien, ulitsa Stary Arbat 32 (metro stations Arbatskaya or  Smolenskaya). On Thursday 13 September there will also be a special all-day coffee morning at the Novotel, ul Novoslobodskaya 23, metro Mendelevskaya, especially for new members looking to sign up to join the IWC before the first general meeting of the year and  for exis ting m embe rs to re new t heir memb ership. For  more information on what IWC offers check out their  website www.iwcmoscow.ru. www.iwcmoscow.ru.

Scots in Moscow Moscow’s Scottish community is small but existent and despite not puttin g any efforts into promotion, they do still manage to consistently pull off three events a year; the St Andrew’s ball, a Burn’s supper and the summer  Stramash. The Stramash (which loosely translated means something like ‘mess’) traditionally takes place in Krasnaya Presnya park (metro Ulitsa 1905 Goda) on the last Saturday of August. At the time of printin g  the future of the Stramash had not been confirmed, but if the Scots in Moscow do pull it together yet  again you can expect traditional Scottish dancing, a barbeque and concerts from Scottish tribute bands. Keep an eye on our facebook page www.facebook. com/MoscowInYourPocket or the events page of  our website for any updates.

Cultural & Educational Centres The American Center in Moscow D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:45, Sat 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun. British Council D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 01, www.britishcouncil. org/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Break  13:00-14:00 Canadian Centre D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya Nikoloyamskaya 1, 2nd f loor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/ lrn/deindex.htm. Le Centre culturel Francais D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 79 74, www.ccfmoscou.ru. Moscow In Your Pocket

Exporting to Russia chelnoki ) were In the roaring nineties, suitcase traders ( chelnoki  a common sight at railway stations and even in airports. Airfare was still relatively cheap and people would finance their trip to Turkey, India or even Poland by exporting cigarettes and vodka and importing sunglasses, electronic gadgets and other must-haves not available in Russia. Since then, Russia has experienced a retail boom and shopping trips to Europe are no longer a must for the demanding Russian or foreign shopaholic. But now and then, you may feel sorry that your favourite products are not available in Russia and have a great idea, like “let’s start importing organic T-shirts”. How many times have I listened to Dutch visitors who were convinced that importing deep-frying pans to Russia would be a goldmine! Here are a few things to keep in mind when creating your business case: 1. Be aware of projecting your own preferences preferences on the Russian consumer. Take some samples first (in your  hand luggage, not more than 50 kilo’s though or you will pay big money at the customs) and show them to unprejudiced consumers and corporate customers; 2. It is a long way. way. With the bulk of consumer goods goods now being manufactured in China and the Far East, this is still transported by sea cargo to Europe and from ther e by ship, rail or truck to Russia. The shortest way, by rail  from China to Russi a, is more expen sive. 3. The promise that that you can deliver goods to to a retailer  or wholesaler does not make a deal. You must have the goods in stock in Russia. As you may have noticed, Russians are very pragmatic people and they will not put  their money on what may be in a month, but on what will be today or tomorrow; 4. Russia has only only just very recently entered into into the WTO and a lot of laws have to be brought in conformity  with this. This is going to take a while. Everything that is imported in Russia must first be cer tified to prove it is not a danger to public health and safety; 5. Most finished products are subject to customs duduties in the amount of 5-15% levied, in principle, on the invoice value of the goods plus transport costs. The lower the invoice value, the lower the customs duties, and a too high customs value will price your product  out of the market. If you l ower your customs value, the profit to be made in Russia will increase. Only if you have a Russian entity (which takes time to set up and costs at least 10,000 Euro per year to maintain), the profit is yours; 6. Russia’s retail sector is not consolidated yet yet but the big retailers, who can mean volume for the sale of your  product, will squeeze every penny of credi t space out of  you and penalize delays heavily. By supplying to one of  the big chains you effectively become a downside-riskparticipating-investor participating-investor in their business. All these factors together may frighten the faint-hearted, but if you’ve come to Russia these small problems will not put you off. If you want to start on a small scale, an “informal web shop” may be an alternative: check out  the Russian social network vkontakte and you will see groups with thousands of members which consist of  people asking other people to buy a specific ar ticle in a store and then sending it by regular parcel mail to the recipient in a distant village in some Russian province. Because of its absolute transparency (order fulfillment  is completely public), this system works. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

LifestyLe directory Expat Events

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LifestyLe directory

Neso Russia D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 23, w ww.nesorus-

Wellnes and Massage

sia.org. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Krasnopresnenskiye Bani А-1, Stolyarny per. 7, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, t el. (+7) 495 609 35 50,

Internationall Schools/Preschools Internationa

www.baninapresne.ru. Certainly one of Moscow’s best  cared for banya complexes and much less touristy than the famous Sanduny baths. There’s been a bathhouse here since the 19th Century, although sadly the building  you see now is a red brick 1970s reconstruction of the old art nouveau style b uilding. Krasnopresnenskiye has ample men and women’s sections wi th swimming pools, massage rooms and steam rooms as well as the traditional Russian saunas. Make sure to bring your friends along s o you can  follow the Russian s in takin g a dvan tage of t he flasks of  tea while you let off some steam an d have a gossip in the relaxing area. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Two hour sessions  from 1, 000 - 1, 200Rbl .

British International School Ul. Bolshaya Akademicheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Little Angels Ul. Novocheremushkinskaya 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www. littleangels.ru. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00. Sat ,Sun closed. PLNW P’tit Cref B-2, Bolshoi Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbats-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A The English International School (EIS) Zeleny prospect 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The International School of MoscowUl. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

Residential Complexes Pokrovsky Hills Ul. Beregovaya 3, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 66 00, pokrovskyhills.ru. Rosinka Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village Angelovo, MMitino, tel. (+7) 495 730 32 00, www. rosinka.ru. Q A

Medical and Dental Clinics American Medical Centres С-1, Prospekt Mira, 26, bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24 hours. A European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonyevsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 66 55, www.emcmos.ru. Also at Orlovsky per. 7 (metro Pr. Mira). Doctor on call 933 66 45. Q Open 24 hrs. A International SOS Orlovsky per. 7, 3rd floor, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 60, www.internationalsos. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. 24 hour emergency service. QPTA

61

On Your Bike! The traffic on Moscow’s highways and byways may be intimidating but don’t be fooled into thinking that Moscow is not a bike friendly cit y - in many ways it is! The embankments along the river are great for cycling, while Gorky  Park, the park at metro station VDNKh (the All Russia Exhibition Centre) and the embankment in front of the Luzhniki sports stadium (metro station Sportivnaya) all offer bike rental and and specially de dicated cycle lanes. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground rollerblades are also available for hire at the same places. If you want to wear  a helmet - ask for one, otherwise they will presume that  you prefer to ride without like everyone else.

Sandunovskie Bani С-1, Ul. Neglinnaya 14, bldg. 3-7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 31, www. sanduny.ru. This historic, luxurious and well kept up banya  (public bath house) works wonders on the winter blues. Its original 19th century glamour has been preserved: marble columns, red carpets and golden imperial archways greet  you like royalty at the main entrance. Both the men and women’s sections are classically designed; Grecian statues and towering Roman columns that surround the swimming  pools in perfect symmetry. There are regular and VIP class bathes in both the men and women’s sections. The women’s VIP class boasts a Jacuzzi, spa services and a hair salon. Private baths are also available. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. TJAKDC

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US Dental Care C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www. usdentalcare.com. Well-established and longrespected American Board-certified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PJAW

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our Moscow our  Moscow In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see and where to eat and drink.

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

60

LifestyLe directory Expat Events Moscow Village Fete St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. Moscow’s Anglican church St. standrewsmoscow.org.Moscow’s standrewsmoscow.org. Andrew’s, together with the Moscow British Business Club, will again host its annual Village Fete at the church grounds in aid of the local charity Taganka Children’s Fund. In traditional British style there will be games and competitions, raffles, crafts, food, music and fun for  all the family. Entrance costs 200Rbl. The event takes place on Saturday 15.09 starting a t 14:00.

International Women’s Club Every month the International Women’s Club (IWC) in Moscow get together to unite different expat women living in Moscow. The IWC organise regular informal coffee mornings on Tuesdays and Saturdays where newcomers can come down and have a chat and me et  new people. Upcoming dates for the coffee mornings are 04.08, 14.08 and 01.09 at Le Pain Quotidien, ulitsa Stary Arbat 32 (metro stations Arbatskaya or  Smolenskaya). On Thursday 13 September there will also be a special all-day coffee morning at the Novotel, ul Novoslobodskaya 23, metro Mendelevskaya, especially for new members looking to sign up to join the IWC before the first general meeting of the year and  for exis ting m embe rs to re new t heir memb ership. For  more information on what IWC offers check out their  website www.iwcmoscow.ru. www.iwcmoscow.ru.

Neso Russia D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 00 23, w ww.nesorus-

Wellnes and Massage

sia.org. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Krasnopresnenskiye Bani А-1, Stolyarny per. 7, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, t el. (+7) 495 609 35 50,

Internationall Schools/Preschools Internationa

www.baninapresne.ru. Certainly one of Moscow’s best  cared for banya complexes and much less touristy than the famous Sanduny baths. There’s been a bathhouse here since the 19th Century, although sadly the building  you see now is a red brick 1970s reconstruction of the old art nouveau style b uilding. Krasnopresnenskiye has ample men and women’s sections wi th swimming pools, massage rooms and steam rooms as well as the traditional Russian saunas. Make sure to bring your friends along s o you can  follow the Russian s in takin g a dvan tage of t he flasks of  tea while you let off some steam an d have a gossip in the relaxing area. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Two hour sessions  from 1, 000 - 1, 200Rbl .

British International School Ul. Bolshaya Akademicheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Little Angels Ul. Novocheremushkinskaya 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www. littleangels.ru. Q Open 08:30 - 17:00. Sat ,Sun closed. PLNW P’tit Cref B-2, Bolshoi Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbats-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A The English International School (EIS) Zeleny prospect 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A The International School of MoscowUl. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

Scots in Moscow

Cultural & Educational Centres The American Center in Moscow D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:45, Sat 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun. British Council D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 01, www.britishcouncil. org/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Break  13:00-14:00 Canadian Centre D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya Nikoloyamskaya 1, 2nd f loor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/ lrn/deindex.htm. Le Centre culturel Francais D-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 79 74, www.ccfmoscou.ru.

61

On Your Bike! The traffic on Moscow’s highways and byways may be intimidating but don’t be fooled into thinking that Moscow is not a bike friendly cit y - in many ways it is! The embankments along the river are great for cycling, while Gorky  Park, the park at metro station VDNKh (the All Russia Exhibition Centre) and the embankment in front of the Luzhniki sports stadium (metro station Sportivnaya) all offer bike rental and and specially de dicated cycle lanes. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground rollerblades are also available for hire at the same places. If you want to wear  a helmet - ask for one, otherwise they will presume that  you prefer to ride without like everyone else.

Sandunovskie Bani С-1, Ul. Neglinnaya 14, bldg. 3-7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 31, www. sanduny.ru. This historic, luxurious and well kept up banya  (public bath house) works wonders on the winter blues. Its original 19th century glamour has been preserved: marble columns, red carpets and golden imperial archways greet  you like royalty at the main entrance. Both the men and women’s sections are classically designed; Grecian statues and towering Roman columns that surround the swimming  pools in perfect symmetry. There are regular and VIP class bathes in both the men and women’s sections. The women’s VIP class boasts a Jacuzzi, spa services and a hair salon. Private baths are also available. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Residential Complexes Pokrovsky Hills Ul. Beregovaya 3, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 66 00, pokrovskyhills.ru. Rosinka Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village Angelovo, MMitino, tel. (+7) 495 730 32 00, www. rosinka.ru. Q A

TJAKDC

Medical and Dental Clinics

Moscow’s Scottish community is small but existent and despite not puttin g any efforts into promotion, they do still manage to consistently pull off three events a year; the St Andrew’s ball, a Burn’s supper and the summer  Stramash. The Stramash (which loosely translated means something like ‘mess’) traditionally takes place in Krasnaya Presnya park (metro Ulitsa 1905 Goda) on the last Saturday of August. At the time of printin g  the future of the Stramash had not been confirmed, but if the Scots in Moscow do pull it together yet  again you can expect traditional Scottish dancing, a barbeque and concerts from Scottish tribute bands. Keep an eye on our facebook page www.facebook. com/MoscowInYourPocket or the events page of  our website for any updates.

MAP

American Medical Centres С-1, Prospekt Mira, 26, bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira,

 A 

tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24 hours. A European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonyevsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 66 55, www.emcmos.ru. Also at Orlovsky per. 7 (metro Pr. Mira). Doctor on call 933 66 45. Q Open 24 hrs. A International SOS Orlovsky per. 7, 3rd floor, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 60, www.internationalsos. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. 24 hour emergency service. QPTA

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US Dental Care C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www. usdentalcare.com. Well-established and longrespected American Board-certified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PJAW

Moscow In Your Pocket

62

LifestyLe directory

A smaller version of our broader scale map, this gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. For more detail, pick up our Moscow our  Moscow In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see and where to eat and drink.

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Map

Map

Russian street names and addresses

Advertise on this map!

In our listings we have abbreviated Russian street titles in the same manner that in English the word street would be shortened to become st. or road to become rd. etc. If you are unsure about how a street should be called in full in Russian check the abbreviations below: Ulitsa - ul. Prospekt - pr. Ploshchad - pl. Naberezhna ya – nab. Bulvar - bul. Pereulok - per. Allea - al. Kanal - kan. Doroga - dor. Furthermore the often used word Bolshaya (large) becomes bol. and Malaya (small) becomes mal. in our transliteration of Russian street names.

Call +7 926 243 20 32 or email [email protected]

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Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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Map

Map

63

Russian street names and addresses

Advertise on this map!

In our listings we have abbreviated Russian street titles in the same manner that in English the word street would be shortened to become st. or road to become rd. etc. If you are unsure about how a street should be called in full in Russian check the abbreviations below: Ulitsa - ul. Prospekt - pr. Ploshchad - pl. Naberezhna ya – nab. Bulvar - bul. Pereulok - per. Allea - al. Kanal - kan. Doroga - dor. Furthermore the often used word Bolshaya (large) becomes bol. and Malaya (small) becomes mal. in our transliteration of Russian street names.

Call +7 926 243 20 32 or email [email protected]

B

C

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Moscow In Your Pocket

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moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

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Communism

Crossing the Road

Lenin’s mummified corpse in its Red Square Mausoleum (C-2) is one of the city’s prominent  communist reminders, not to mention the almighty Moscow metro. Stalin’s red stars, atop the Kremlin towers, are still in place too. The elaborate kitsch chaos of the All Russia Exhibition Centre erected in the 1930s remains a testament to the Communist dream factory as does practically  every other hulking square construction all over town. Most statues of Lenin, Marx, Engels and co. are still in place; Marx is on Teatralnaya pl., Lenin on Oktyabrskaya pl. and everywhere you look you’ll find hamm ers and sickle s. Muzeon sculture park (C-3/4), (C-3/4), near the New Tretyakov has become a repository of Communist era statues.

Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to ! It's pronounced perekhod  in learn this word Russian and means underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking   for anot her 200 or 300 met res. The busi est inte rcha nges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow inyourpo cket com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

65

64

Map

Map

3 3

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Communism

Crossing the Road

Lenin’s mummified corpse in its Red Square Mausoleum (C-2) is one of the city’s prominent  communist reminders, not to mention the almighty Moscow metro. Stalin’s red stars, atop the Kremlin towers, are still in place too. The elaborate kitsch chaos of the All Russia Exhibition Centre erected in the 1930s remains a testament to the Communist dream factory as does practically  every other hulking square construction all over town. Most statues of Lenin, Marx, Engels and co. are still in place; Marx is on Teatralnaya pl., Lenin on Oktyabrskaya pl. and everywhere you look you’ll find hamm ers and sickle s. Muzeon sculture park (C-3/4), (C-3/4), near the New Tretyakov has become a repository of Communist era statues.

Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to ! It's pronounced perekhod  in learn this word Russian and means underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking   for anot her 200 or 300 met res. The busi est inte rcha nges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.

Moscow In Your Pocket

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C

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Street regiSter 1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 A Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1  Alexandra Nevskogo ul. B-1  Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-3 Apakova pr. C-4 Arbat ul. B-2 Armyansky per. D-2 B Bakhrushina ul. D-3/4 Bakuninskaya ul. A-1  Balchug ul. C-2 Baumanskaya ul A-1  Bernikovskaya nab. D-2 Bersenevskaya nab. C-3 Bobrov per. C/D-1  Bogayavlensky per. C-2 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1  Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-3 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. B-1  Bol. Karetny per. C-1  Bol. Kazenny per. D-2 Bol. Kharitonievsky per. D-1  Bol. Kiselny per. C-1  Bol. Kislovsky per. B/C-2 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-1  Bol. Kozlovsky per. D-1  Bol. Lubyanka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Molchanovka ul. ul. B-2 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-2 Bol. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-1  Bol. Patriarshy per. B-1/2 Bol. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1  Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-4 Bol. Slavinsky per. A-3/4 Bol. Spasskaya ul. D-1  Bol. Staromonetny per.C-3 per.C-3 Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-4 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. C-1  Bol. Sukharevky per. C-1  Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-3 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-3 Bol. Tishinsky per. A/B-1  Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Bol. Znamensky per.B-2/3 per.B-2/3 Bol.Levshinsky per. B-3 Bolotnaya nab. C-3 Bolotnaya pl. C-3 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-2 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-2/3 Brestskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Brestskaya ul. (2ya) B-1  Brodnikov per. C-3 Burdenko ul. A-3 Butikovsky per. B-3 Butyrsk y Val ul. B-1  C Chayanova ul. B-1  Chistoprudny bul. D-1/2 Chisty per. B-3 D Delegatskaya ul. C-1  Denezhny per. B-2/3 Dobryninsk y per. (1y) C-4 Dokuchaev per. D-1  Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1  Dostoevskaya ul. B/C-1  Dubininskaya ul. D-4 Durasovsky per. D-2 Durova ul. C-1 

E Elanskogo ul. A-4 Elizarovsky per. E-1/2 Ermolaevsky per. B-1  Eropinsky per. B-3 F  Fadeeva ul. B-1  Filippovsky per. B-2 Furmanny per. D-1  G Gagarinsky per. B-3 Gavrikova ul. A-1  Gazetny per. C-2 Gilyarovskogo ul. C-1  Glazovsky per. B-3 Gogolevsky bul. B-3 Golikovsky per. C-3 Golutvinsk y per. (1y) C-3 Goncharnaya nab. D-3 Goncharnaya ul. D/E-3 Goncharny per. (2y) D-3 Gorokhovsky per. D/E-1  Granatny per. B-2 Grokholsky per. C/D-1  Gusyatnikov per. D-1  I Ilinka ul. C-2 Ipatyevsky per. C-2 K Kadashevskaya nab. C-3 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. D-1  Kalashny per. B-2 Kazachy per. (1y) C-4 Kazachy per. (2y) C-4 Kazakova ul. D-1/2 Kazansky per. C-4 Kazarmeny per. D-2 Khilkov per. B-3 Khlebny per. B-2 Kholovsky per. D-2 Khvostovoy per. (1y) C-4 Kievskaya ul. A-3 Klimentovsky per. C/D-3 Kolpachny per. D-2 Kompozitorskaya ul. B-2 Komsomolskaya pl. D-1  Komsomolsky pr. A/B-4 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2 Koptelsky per. (1y) C-1  Korobeynikov per. B-3 Korovy Val ul. C-4 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D-2 Kostyansky per. C-1  Kotelnicheskaya nab. D-2/3 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-3 Kozitsky per. C-1  Krasina ul. B-1  Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-2 Krasnaya presnya presnya ul. ul. A-2 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-2 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B/C-1  Krasnoprudnaya ul. D-1  Kremlevskaya nab. C-2 Krivokolenny per. C/D-2, D-1  Kropotkinsky per. B-3 Krutitsk y per. (3y) E-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-4 Krymsk y nab. B-3/4 Krymsk y proezd B-4 Krymsk y Val. B-4, C-4 Kursovoy per. B-3 Kutuzovsky pr. A-2 Kuznetsky most ul. C-2 L Lavrsky per. C-1  Lavrushinsky per. C-3 Lefortovskaya nab. E-1  Leningradsky pr. B/A-1  Leninsky pr. C-4

Moscow In Your Pocket

Leontievsky per. B/C-2 Lesnaya ul. B-1  Lubyansky proezd C/D-2 Lva Tolstogo ul. A-3/4,B-4 Lyalin per. D-2 Lyusinovskaya ul. C-4 M Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1  Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1  Mal. Karetny per. C-1  Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-1  Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Mal. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.C-1  pl.C-1  Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Mal. Znamensky per. per. B-2 Manezhnaya pl. C-2 Manezhnaya ul. C-2 Marksistskaya ul. E-3 Maronovsky per. C-4 Maroseyka ul. C/D-2 Mashkova ul. D-1  Merzlyakovsky per. B-2 Milyutinsk y per. C-1/2 Miusskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Mohovaya ul. C-2 Molochny per. B-3 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-4 Moskvoretskaya nab. C/D-2 Myasnitskaya ul. C/D-1, C-2 Mytnaya ul. C-4 N Neglinnaya ul. C-1/2 Nikitsky bul. B-2 Nikitsky per. C-2 Nikoloyamskaya ul. D/E-2, E-3 Nikolskaya ul. C-2 Nikolsky per. C-2 Nizhny Krasnokholmskaya ul. D-3/4 Nizhny Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1  Nizhny  Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-2 Novaya Basmannaya ul. D-1  Novaya pl. C-2 Novinsky bul. B-2 Novokrymsk y pr. B-3/4 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-3/4 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-4 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-4 Novoryazanskaya ul. D/E-1  Novospassky pr. E-4 Novy Arbat ul. B-2 O Obydensky per. (2y) B-3 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2 Olympysky pr. C-1  Ostozhenka ul. B-3 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. C/D-3 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-3/4 Ozerkovsky per. D-3 P Panteleevskaya ul. D-1  Paveletskaya pl. D-4 Petrovka ul. C-1/2 Petrovsky bul. C-1 

Petrovsky per. C-1  Pizhevsky per. C-3 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Plotnikov per. B-2/3 Plyushchkina ul. A-3 Podkolokolny per. D-2 Podsosensky per. D-2 Pogodinskaya ul. A-4 Pogorelsky per. C-4 Pokrovka ul. D-1/2 Pokrovsky bul. D-2 Pomerancev per. B-3 Posledny per. C-1  Potapovsky per. D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2 Pozharsky per. B-3 Prechistenskaya nab. B/C-3 Prechistensky per. B-3 Presnensky val ul. A-1  Prospekt Mira C-1  Protopopovsky per. C/D-1  Pugovishnikov per. A/B-4 Pushechnaya ul. C-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-4 Pushkinskaya pl. B/C-1  Pyatnitska ya ul. C/D-3, D-4 Pyevchyesky per. D-2 R Raushskaya nab. C/D-2 Romanov per. C-2 Rossolimo ul. A-4 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-1/2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C-1  Runovsky per. D-3 Rybny per. C-2 S Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. C-1  Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. B-1/2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. D-1  Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B/c-1  Sadovnicheskaya ul. C/D-2, D-3/4 Sadovnichesk y pr. D-3 Samarskaya ul. C-1  Samotyochnaya ul. C-1  Savvinskaya nab. A-3 Seleznevskaya ul. B/C-1  Serebryanicheskaya nab. D-2 Sergeya Makeeva ul. A-1/2 Shchepkina ul. C-1  Shmitovsky pr. A-2 Sittsev Vrazhek per. B-2/3 Skaterny per. B-2 Smolensky bul. B-3 Smolenskaya ul. A-3 Sofiyskaya nab. C-2/3 Soimonovsky pr. B-3 Solyanka ul. D-2 Spartakovskaya ul. E-1  Spasonalikovsky per. (1y) C-4 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-1/2 Sretenka ul. C-1  Sretensky bul. C-1  Stanislavskogo ul. E-3 Staraya pl. C-2 Staraya Basmannaya ul. E-1  Starokonnyushenny per. B-2/3 Staromonetny per. C-3 Starosadsky per. D-2 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-3 Stoleshnikov per. C-1/2 Stolyarny per. A-1  Strastnoy bul. B/C-1  Stremyanny per. D-4

Sushchevskaya ul. B-1  Syromatnitcheskaya per. (4y) E-2 Syromatnitcheskaya nab. E-2 Sytinsky per. B-1  T Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-2 Tatarskaya ul. D-3/4 Teatralny proezd C-2 Teterinsky per. D/E-3 Timura Frunze ul. A/B-3, B-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1  Trubnaya ul. C-1  Trubetskaya ul. A-4 Trubnikovsky per. B-2 Tryokhprudny per. B-1  Tsvetnoy bul. C-1  Tverskaya ul. B/C-1, C-2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) B-1  Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) B-1  Tverskoy bul. B -1/2 U Usacheva ul. A-4 Ustyinsky pr. D-2 V Valovaya ul. D-4 Varsoniefsky per. C-1  Varvarka ul. C-2 Vasilievsky spusk pl. C-2 Vasilyevskaya ul. B-1  Vasntesov per. C-1  Verkhny. Krasnoselskaya ul. D-1  Verkhny. Radishchevskaya ul. D-2/3, E-3 Verkhny  Syromyatnicheskaya ul. D/E-2 Volhonka ul. C-2/3 Vorontsovo pole D-2 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-3 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-2 Voznesensky per. B/C-2 Vspolny per. B-2 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-3 Yakimanskogo polya (3-y) ul. B-1  Yakimansky pr. C-3 Yauzsky bul. D-2 Z Zemlyanoy Val ul. D-1/2,E-2/3 Zhitnaya ul. C-4 Zhukovskogo ul. D-1/2 Znamenka ul. B/C-2 Zoologich eskaya ul. B-1  Zubovsky bul. B-3 Zvenigorodskoe shosse A-1  Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok  Pr. - Prospekt  Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar  Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

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Street regiSter 1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 A Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1  Alexandra Nevskogo ul. B-1  Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-3 Apakova pr. C-4 Arbat ul. B-2 Armyansky per. D-2 B Bakhrushina ul. D-3/4 Bakuninskaya ul. A-1  Balchug ul. C-2 Baumanskaya ul A-1  Bernikovskaya nab. D-2 Bersenevskaya nab. C-3 Bobrov per. C/D-1  Bogayavlensky per. C-2 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1  Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-3 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. B-1  Bol. Karetny per. C-1  Bol. Kazenny per. D-2 Bol. Kharitonievsky per. D-1  Bol. Kiselny per. C-1  Bol. Kislovsky per. B/C-2 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-1  Bol. Kozlovsky per. D-1  Bol. Lubyanka ul. C-1/2 Bol. Molchanovka ul. ul. B-2 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-2 Bol. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-1  Bol. Patriarshy per. B-1/2 Bol. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1  Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-4 Bol. Slavinsky per. A-3/4 Bol. Spasskaya ul. D-1  Bol. Staromonetny per.C-3 per.C-3 Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-4 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. C-1  Bol. Sukharevky per. C-1  Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-3 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-3 Bol. Tishinsky per. A/B-1  Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-2/3 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Bol. Znamensky per.B-2/3 per.B-2/3 Bol.Levshinsky per. B-3 Bolotnaya nab. C-3 Bolotnaya pl. C-3 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-2 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-2/3 Brestskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Brestskaya ul. (2ya) B-1  Brodnikov per. C-3 Burdenko ul. A-3 Butikovsky per. B-3 Butyrsk y Val ul. B-1  C Chayanova ul. B-1  Chistoprudny bul. D-1/2 Chisty per. B-3 D Delegatskaya ul. C-1  Denezhny per. B-2/3 Dobryninsk y per. (1y) C-4 Dokuchaev per. D-1  Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1  Dostoevskaya ul. B/C-1  Dubininskaya ul. D-4 Durasovsky per. D-2 Durova ul. C-1 

E Elanskogo ul. A-4 Elizarovsky per. E-1/2 Ermolaevsky per. B-1  Eropinsky per. B-3 F  Fadeeva ul. B-1  Filippovsky per. B-2 Furmanny per. D-1  G Gagarinsky per. B-3 Gavrikova ul. A-1  Gazetny per. C-2 Gilyarovskogo ul. C-1  Glazovsky per. B-3 Gogolevsky bul. B-3 Golikovsky per. C-3 Golutvinsk y per. (1y) C-3 Goncharnaya nab. D-3 Goncharnaya ul. D/E-3 Goncharny per. (2y) D-3 Gorokhovsky per. D/E-1  Granatny per. B-2 Grokholsky per. C/D-1  Gusyatnikov per. D-1  I Ilinka ul. C-2 Ipatyevsky per. C-2 K Kadashevskaya nab. C-3 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. D-1  Kalashny per. B-2 Kazachy per. (1y) C-4 Kazachy per. (2y) C-4 Kazakova ul. D-1/2 Kazansky per. C-4 Kazarmeny per. D-2 Khilkov per. B-3 Khlebny per. B-2 Kholovsky per. D-2 Khvostovoy per. (1y) C-4 Kievskaya ul. A-3 Klimentovsky per. C/D-3 Kolpachny per. D-2 Kompozitorskaya ul. B-2 Komsomolskaya pl. D-1  Komsomolsky pr. A/B-4 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2 Koptelsky per. (1y) C-1  Korobeynikov per. B-3 Korovy Val ul. C-4 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D-2 Kostyansky per. C-1  Kotelnicheskaya nab. D-2/3 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-3 Kozitsky per. C-1  Krasina ul. B-1  Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-2 Krasnaya presnya presnya ul. ul. A-2 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-2 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B/C-1  Krasnoprudnaya ul. D-1  Kremlevskaya nab. C-2 Krivokolenny per. C/D-2, D-1  Kropotkinsky per. B-3 Krutitsk y per. (3y) E-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-4 Krymsk y nab. B-3/4 Krymsk y proezd B-4 Krymsk y Val. B-4, C-4 Kursovoy per. B-3 Kutuzovsky pr. A-2 Kuznetsky most ul. C-2 L Lavrsky per. C-1  Lavrushinsky per. C-3 Lefortovskaya nab. E-1  Leningradsky pr. B/A-1  Leninsky pr. C-4

Moscow In Your Pocket

Leontievsky per. B/C-2 Lesnaya ul. B-1  Lubyansky proezd C/D-2 Lva Tolstogo ul. A-3/4,B-4 Lyalin per. D-2 Lyusinovskaya ul. C-4 M Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-1/2 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1  Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1  Mal. Karetny per. C-1  Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-1  Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Mal. Ordynka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Pirogovskaya ul. A-4 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-3/4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.C-1  pl.C-1  Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-3 Mal. Znamensky per. per. B-2 Manezhnaya pl. C-2 Manezhnaya ul. C-2 Marksistskaya ul. E-3 Maronovsky per. C-4 Maroseyka ul. C/D-2 Mashkova ul. D-1  Merzlyakovsky per. B-2 Milyutinsk y per. C-1/2 Miusskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Mohovaya ul. C-2 Molochny per. B-3 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-4 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-4 Moskvoretskaya nab. C/D-2 Myasnitskaya ul. C/D-1, C-2 Mytnaya ul. C-4 N Neglinnaya ul. C-1/2 Nikitsky bul. B-2 Nikitsky per. C-2 Nikoloyamskaya ul. D/E-2, E-3 Nikolskaya ul. C-2 Nikolsky per. C-2 Nizhny Krasnokholmskaya ul. D-3/4 Nizhny Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1  Nizhny  Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-2 Novaya Basmannaya ul. D-1  Novaya pl. C-2 Novinsky bul. B-2 Novokrymsk y pr. B-3/4 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-3/4 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-4 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-4 Novoryazanskaya ul. D/E-1  Novospassky pr. E-4 Novy Arbat ul. B-2 O Obydensky per. (2y) B-3 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2 Olympysky pr. C-1  Ostozhenka ul. B-3 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. C/D-3 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-3/4 Ozerkovsky per. D-3 P Panteleevskaya ul. D-1  Paveletskaya pl. D-4 Petrovka ul. C-1/2 Petrovsky bul. C-1 

Petrovsky per. C-1  Pizhevsky per. C-3 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Plotnikov per. B-2/3 Plyushchkina ul. A-3 Podkolokolny per. D-2 Podsosensky per. D-2 Pogodinskaya ul. A-4 Pogorelsky per. C-4 Pokrovka ul. D-1/2 Pokrovsky bul. D-2 Pomerancev per. B-3 Posledny per. C-1  Potapovsky per. D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2 Pozharsky per. B-3 Prechistenskaya nab. B/C-3 Prechistensky per. B-3 Presnensky val ul. A-1  Prospekt Mira C-1  Protopopovsky per. C/D-1  Pugovishnikov per. A/B-4 Pushechnaya ul. C-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-4 Pushkinskaya pl. B/C-1  Pyatnitska ya ul. C/D-3, D-4 Pyevchyesky per. D-2 R Raushskaya nab. C/D-2 Romanov per. C-2 Rossolimo ul. A-4 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-1/2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C-1  Runovsky per. D-3 Rybny per. C-2 S Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. C-1  Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. B-1/2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. D-1  Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B/c-1  Sadovnicheskaya ul. C/D-2, D-3/4 Sadovnichesk y pr. D-3 Samarskaya ul. C-1  Samotyochnaya ul. C-1  Savvinskaya nab. A-3 Seleznevskaya ul. B/C-1  Serebryanicheskaya nab. D-2 Sergeya Makeeva ul. A-1/2 Shchepkina ul. C-1  Shmitovsky pr. A-2 Sittsev Vrazhek per. B-2/3 Skaterny per. B-2 Smolensky bul. B-3 Smolenskaya ul. A-3 Sofiyskaya nab. C-2/3 Soimonovsky pr. B-3 Solyanka ul. D-2 Spartakovskaya ul. E-1  Spasonalikovsky per. (1y) C-4 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-1/2 Sretenka ul. C-1  Sretensky bul. C-1  Stanislavskogo ul. E-3 Staraya pl. C-2 Staraya Basmannaya ul. E-1  Starokonnyushenny per. B-2/3 Staromonetny per. C-3 Starosadsky per. D-2 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-3 Stoleshnikov per. C-1/2 Stolyarny per. A-1  Strastnoy bul. B/C-1  Stremyanny per. D-4

Sushchevskaya ul. B-1  Syromatnitcheskaya per. (4y) E-2 Syromatnitcheskaya nab. E-2 Sytinsky per. B-1  T Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-2 Tatarskaya ul. D-3/4 Teatralny proezd C-2 Teterinsky per. D/E-3 Timura Frunze ul. A/B-3, B-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1  Trubnaya ul. C-1  Trubetskaya ul. A-4 Trubnikovsky per. B-2 Tryokhprudny per. B-1  Tsvetnoy bul. C-1  Tverskaya ul. B/C-1, C-2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) B-1  Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) B-1  Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) B-1  Tverskoy bul. B -1/2 U Usacheva ul. A-4 Ustyinsky pr. D-2 V Valovaya ul. D-4 Varsoniefsky per. C-1  Varvarka ul. C-2 Vasilievsky spusk pl. C-2 Vasilyevskaya ul. B-1  Vasntesov per. C-1  Verkhny. Krasnoselskaya ul. D-1  Verkhny. Radishchevskaya ul. D-2/3, E-3 Verkhny  Syromyatnicheskaya ul. D/E-2 Volhonka ul. C-2/3 Vorontsovo pole D-2 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-3 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-2 Voznesensky per. B/C-2 Vspolny per. B-2 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-3 Yakimanskogo polya (3-y) ul. B-1  Yakimansky pr. C-3 Yauzsky bul. D-2 Z Zemlyanoy Val ul. D-1/2,E-2/3 Zhitnaya ul. C-4 Zhukovskogo ul. D-1/2 Znamenka ul. B/C-2 Zoologich eskaya ul. B-1  Zubovsky bul. B-3 Zvenigorodskoe shosse A-1  Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok  Pr. - Prospekt  Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar  Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

moscow.inyourpo cket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012