Moscow (DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

TOP 10 moscow А

OK UL RE PE IY GE AN

AR K H

KO

CH

А

N LE

ER SV

v

Sea Aquarium

A

ROVK

О

КР

R

A S H E V S KI

K i t a y

KAZE

BOL

R Y PE

NNYY

LIN

OK A P

ПО

А

УЛ И Ц

В

YAK

G o r o d

OV

O–

APO

LSK

I

R

AR

LV

BU

IY

K

U LIT

S

LE

NABER

O LO

EZH NA

YA

A Я уз а ESKAY Ya u z aB E R E Z H N A Y A YA

YA M

NA

SKA

YA

KI Y PE R

PO

DG

NIK

N I CH

OVSKA

A

ULITS

A

O

A

@

N

TETERI

Z EM L

ITS

Y AN S

UL

@

PO

BERNIK OV PER

ITA

SP

TIN

IK ERN

AY

R A U2 - O Y SH PER

BRYA

SK

US

B

AB YA N

O

R KIY PE

SERE

UZ

SKA

SOV

A

D

AY

K 1 - Y Y KO TE L N I C H ES

IY

U

K

EZ

N

A

k

AY

Komissariatskiy Most

VER ISH RAD

A

s

YA

AY

AR

HN

CH

EZ

SK

BO

A YA

IY P ER

ER

NA

o

IKOV SK

ZH

HE

ERE

IC

OVC HINN

NAB

M

N

IY

AYA

NSKIY

K CH HNY A E

PEREULOK

УЛИЦА ЗЕМ ЛЯНОЙ ВАЛ

R

PE

OK

EU L

IY P ER

VS K

AE

OP

PO

DK

TE

LN

YY

PE

R

K IY P R OEZD

OR O D S

VO

NICHES YA

PER

EBR

ONT

NSKIY

SE R

G

LN

Bolshoy Ustinskiy Most

TE

NAB

AB E

OR

ZS

N AYA R EZH

KO

SA

AN AY

OK

P E R E U L OK

YA

SK

K

ER IY P

O LN YY

YA U

YA

VS

ROBI

NA

SO

VOR

ULITSA

KA

ZH

RA

BOL N IKOLOVO

OL OK

DU

Л

PO DK

Ploshchad Yauzskie Vorota

RE

PER

РБ

S

AN

BE

T ITEL SK I Y

ЬВА

IT

EU L

BO L T R EK H SVYATI T EL S KI Y PER

MAL TREKH SVYA

L I T S A Z E M LY A N OY VA L

OK

UL

RE

PE

HL

KHO K

E Y P

PER

КРОВСКИЙ У

A CH N Y K OLP Y

NY

IY

EN

v

LY

KI TA Y G

OK

RM

SK

ПО

ZA

N

AR

KA

SE

LV

IY

EUL

SO

BU

UL

SO

OVSK

SRE D

B

IT S K

Y

YA

NA

TN

V

o od

P YA

Z

YA

1 -Y

B

E ER

A HN

STO

ULO

PER

D

IY

SK

PO

SK

NA

A

LIT

A

OV

LI

R

KAY

BE

ZA

UL

YA

10 A U

HES

K OS A D S K I Y P E R E U L O

V

ZD

NA

AY

OV

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Bolo t n a y a Plos h c h a d

PERE

LYA

ITS

Railway

BA

U

A O IT S N K UL ARE K MA

KR

Z A L Y LATO

@ Main bus stop 4 River boat pier

К

Y N

LSK

СН

AY

SK IT

BO

ИЦ

Я

КА ИЦ

SKIY M I LY U T I N

ITS

UL

O

LU

NKA

AY

A

YA LU BYA

L SH

BO

UL M ALA

A

УЛ

BY

P E R E U LO

AN

K

KA

ROZHDESTVENKA

ULITSA

Main trolleybus stop

O

SA

A

OV

G IN

IT

LY

Chistye Prudy

PO

UL

AP

LOK

E ULOK

YA

Other sight

PE R

EU

AR

PE

VNIC

ST

KA

Top 10 sight

£ Railway station q Metro station v Main tram stop

CH

v

YY

N

SK

N

TO

Y

K

LS

OY

RI

P ER

IY

SA

SH

A KH

OV

D

KEY

K EVS

KI R PE

LO

KO

R

UK

K

E YP

ZH

LO

OD

IT

U

OB

UL

RE

P

U

NI

PE

L YS

NO

UL

U

RE

IY

l

P ER

SK

INNIK

ESK

A

E R IG SK I Y

EYK

EV

D

OE

HA

L OK

Kana

OVCH

PR

D RO

Must-see museums & galleries Stunning cathedrals & churches @ Liveliest bars & clubs v Metro stations @ Great festivals & events Best restaurantsvin each area @ Soviet architecture @ Most fun places for children 4 Best hotels for every budget Insider tips for every visitor PR

HC

EU

UG

Malyy Moskvoretskiy Most

ICH

SADO

TO

UL

HCH

OS

PER

OK

CH A BAL

TS

10

VN

TA

V KO

Ivanovskaya Hill

INIS

PL

IY

UL

OK

10

10

DO

PO

PE T R O

IY

A

SK

10

10

ULITS

ULI

IY

OGL

SK

AY

EV

RE

UL

YA

SK

S PA S

AN

AR AT

PE

RE

LOK

TNA

O yy dn AYA vo Z H N ot E R E

BOL

IN

S

BOL

BY

ST

Choral

10

Chugunyy Most

ST

N

Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki PLOSHCHAD VARVARSKIE VOROTA VARVARK A

YA U L I T SA

R EU Y PE

@A

TSA

q Kitay Gorod

10

SA

YA

10 Synagogue

M O S KV O RE TS K A

@

M

MAROS

IY

D IP

KIY

PE

FIY

HNAY

EV S KI

SO

EREZ

Y

R

M

UL

ULI

OK

10

NAB

F AL E

y

The Kremlin

IS

A

10 UL

Gostiny Dvor Mausoleum Lobnoe Senate Saviour's Mesto Tower Minin and SA Pozharskiy ULIT Statue Palace Patriarch’s Palace Old of the State St Basil's English Romanov remlin Cathedral of Cathedral Court Boyars Palace the Assumption Ivan the Great Bell Tower Faceted Palace Great Cathedral of Kremlin the Archangel Palace Cathedral of the MOSKVORETSK AYA Annunciation A Bolshaya H N AY y EREZ Moskvoretskiy NAB Most YA S H U S A K R A A Y A NABE SK REZH EV NA A YA SKA

IV A R

LU

HA KA OLS

IT

KR

SK

P

HC IN

NIK

IL

YY

UL

SA

PE

LO K EU

PE

IY

S

BN

er Krasnaya Ploshchad s Arsenal Lenin

R

CH

Y

SK

OS

PE

RY

Red Square

AN

YY

R

N

PE

SH

GUM

q v

KI

BY

EN

ER IY P

VL

Y

TO

q Revolyutsii

YA

KI

VE

PL

Ploshchad

O

A S SK

G

MY

Mayakovsky Museum

YA

Moscow City Museum

E RK

BO

Epiphany Cathedral

LI

q

H LC

@ Zhukov Kazan Statue Cathedral YA Historical D Museum

U

ASN

Polytechnical Museum ER E

BO

q

A

Я

М

A TS

T IN US TO K L A LO L Z ERE U P

@ Lubyanka q

VA

Ploshchad Revolyutsii

Archaeological Museum

EKT

SY P E Turgenevskaya O A T OG RE Chistye Prudy N K UL O OK V

q

BO

P RO SP

LU

TR

Y A LN Y

PLOSHCHAD REVOLYUTSII

q

ULITSA

LUBYANSKAYA PLOSHCHAD Lubyanka

q Teatralnaya Okhotnyy Ryad

ST

Kuznetskiy Most

HNAYA

NO

TEA

Y M O

q

PUSHEC

TSA

TEATRALNAYA PLOSHCHAD

R

ETSKI

U

ITS

IY E V SKK ON R IT E U LO R PE

U

TsUM PE

K IY PER EU LOK

UL

A

AR

KIY

Bolshoy Theatre

O N O F E VS

NI

A SG

AY

LV

E TS

OK

q MY

B O B R OV

K TS

VS

ZN

YY PER EUL

Sretenskiy Bulvar

VA R

O

KU

BOL K ISELN

KUZN

LITSA

House of M O S T Foreign Books ULI

SA

K

S K I Y BU L

BU

N E G L I N N AYA

IT

IY

R

A

UL

K

Y

O

OVK

R IT

K VS

PE

P ER E U LO

Sanduny Bath House Gulag S A N DU N OV S K I Y P E R Museum VARS

PETR

OK

RS K IY

S R E TE N

B U LV A R

HA

A

Z VO N A

TVENSK Y I

LK

ITS

@

HDES

MA

UL UL

M

ROZ

Upper Monastery of St Peter

L

q

Trubnaya

K

TOP 10

MOSCOW

MATT WILLIS

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Contents

Left New Ballet performance Center Arbatskaya metro station Right Kuskovo Estate

Contents Moscow’s Top 10 Design, Editorial, and Picture Research by Quadrum Solutions, Krishnamai, 33B, Sir Pochkanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai, India Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd First American Edition, 2010 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London, A Penguin Company All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or,/.$/. .%79/2+ by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or -%,"/52.% -5.)#(!.$$%,() otherwise), without WWWDKCOM the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. ISSN 1479-344X ISBN 978 0 7566 5723 9 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit..

Moscow’s Highlights

6

St Basil’s Cathedral

8

Red Square

10

Cathedral of the Assumption

12

State Armoury

14

Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts

16

Bolshoy Theatre

18

Tretyakov Gallery

20

Metro Stations

24

Novodevichiy Convent

26

Kolomenskoe Estate

28

Moments in Moscow’s History

32

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL. Cover: Front – 4Corners Images: Marcello Bertinetti main; DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco bl. Spine – DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco b. Back – Alamy Images: Yadid Levy tr; DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco tc, tl.



34

Around Town

Churches and Cathedrals 36

The Kremlin and Red Square

62

Kitay Gorod

68

Arbatskaya

74

Tverskaya

82

Museums

Art Galleries

38

Performing Arts Venues

40

Russian Writers

42

Leisure Activities

44

Zamoskvoreche

88

Soviet Buildings

46

Greater Moscow

94

Festivals and Events

48

Streetsmart

Shops and Markets

52

Practical Information

102

Children’s Attractions

54

Places to Stay

112

Bars and Clubs

56

General Index

118

Restaurants

58

Phrase Book

126

Contents

Left Cathedral of the Assumption Center Matryoshka dolls Right Metropol hotel

Left Historical Museum, Red Square Right Alexander Gardens Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge Rub rouble



MOSCOW’S TOP 10

St Basil’s Cathedral 8–9 Red Square 10–11 Cathedral of the Assumption 12–13 State Armoury 14–15 Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 16–17 Bolshoy Theatre 18–19 Tretyakov Gallery 20–23 Metro Stations 24–25 Novodevichiy Convent 26–27 Kolomenskoe Estate 28–29 Top Ten of Everything 32–59

MOSCOW’S TOP 10

Moscow’s Highlights 6–7

79 (5 6. $< $ 

St Basil’s Cathedral



Moscow’s Top 10

Moscow’s Highlights Despite Stalin’s destruction of much of Moscow’s architectural heritage, what remains is enough to convey the impression of a medieval capital that collided with a Soviet juggernaut. It is a city where petite onion-domed churches and 19th-century mansions compete with epic neo-Gothic skyscrapers and ten-lane ring roads. Ironically, Communism’s greatest contribution to the city – the magnificent metro system – lies deep underground. In recent years bold modern structures have been added to Moscow’s progressive skyline and Muscovites have begun to recover pride in their city by funding the restoration of lost landmarks such as the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (see p74).

!

Built in the 16th century, during the uncertain times of Ivan the Terrible, Moscow’s magnificent centrepiece continues to be as enthralling as ever (see pp8–9).

7YHU VN D \ D

76$





Square @ Red The historic square,

+

2

1.

$

0$1

(=+

02

/.

Cathedral of the Assumption

Armoury $ State With its array of gleaming weaponry and priceless treasures, including exquisite diamonds and Fabergé eggs, the Armoury offers a fascinating insight into the life of Russia’s nobility (see pp14–15).

6