Mollie Makes Shop Digital_Download_Book

FREE PROJECT BOOK Fast fat quarter

SUN SEEKER

You can Make it this weekend! Get in on the floral trend with this simple

To celebrate the launch of the new Mollie Makes Shop, QUICK we’ve put together an exclusive selection of projects PROJECT from Mollie Makes and our sister magazines USE 1 FAT QUARTER

but effective flower. By Kirstie McLeod.

This wou ld look great n as a corsage on a plai for dress - just the thin g summer wedding s

6 PROJECTS INSIDE!

PATCHWORK PROJECT

SEWING

biscornu cushion

CROCHET

KNITTING

You will need n Four (4) different fabric pieces measuring 9½ x 19in each n 500g of toy filling n Two (2) buttons n Strong thread such as perle cotton #12 n Pilot Frixion pen or similar removable pen.

SNAP TO IT!

5

Place your two squares RST, but rotate the top one (which will

Sew Jennie Jones’ simple and smart snap-clasp clutch to have the marks in the corners) 180 degrees so that the fabrics on the two stash the essentials on your next date night. sides don’t match up. Move the top square across to the right so that the marked cross of the top-left corner lines up with the seam intersection of the pieced square below (Fig 3). Pin. Fig 3

CARD MAKING

PATCHWORK

QUILTING

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BEHIND THE DESIGN Fig 4

Designed and made by JO AVERY

BISCORNU CUSHION

Find beautiful buys for you and your home inside our brand new online boutique! Biscornu means ‘complicated and bizarre’ in French. Perhaps a better translation would be ‘quirky’, which only goes some way to describe the fascinating geometry of this cleverly shaped and quick-to-make cushion.

Making the cushion

1

Cut each fabric piece in half to give you eight (8) 9½in squares Place in two piles of four (4) different fabric squares each.

2

Take one of your piles of four (4) fabric squares and sew together to form one (1) large four-patch square (Fig 1).

shop.molliemakes.com 6 Start to sew along the top edge from the exact point of your marked cross (don’t reverse beyond) until you get to the first seam intersection of the top square, which will coincide with a ¼in seam allowance in the top-right corner of the square below. Stop at the seam intersection with your needle inserted and ready to pivot (Fig 4). Turn the rest of your top edge to line

3 Thank you for signing up to the newsletter – we’ll be in touch soon with all the latest, prettiest offers! 4 Sew the remaining four (4) fabric squares together to make a mirror image of the first pieced square, so that when you put them RST they match up. Using a ruler and a removable pen mark a ¼in seam in each corner on the wrong side of one of your squares (Fig 2).

Fast fat quarter QUICK PROJECT

USE 1 FAT QUARTER

SNAP TO IT!

Sew Jennie Jones’ simple and smart snap-clasp clutch to stash the essentials on your next date night.

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Fast fat quarter 01

02

03

04

YOU WILL NEED ■ 1 fat quarter ■ Medium-weight interfacing: 40x55cm (16x22in) ■ Bag frame: 23cm (9in) ■ Invisible thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■U  se the template provided at full size to make this project.

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Designer Jennie says: “There are lots of different bag frames out there. I’ve used a sew-in type, but if you fancy a quicker project then opt for the glue-in version, which doesn’t require any hand stitching.” Step one Trace the template provided, then flip on the pink line to trace the other half as a mirror image. Now you have your template. Cut the fabric in half widthways for the outer and lining. Fold the outer piece in half widthways with right sides (RS) together then place the fold line of the template along the fold of the fabric and pin in place. Cut this out then repeat to cut the bag lining and two pieces of interfacing to the same shape. 01 Step two Take the outer fabric piece and pin the interfacing to the wrong side (WS) of it. Fold along the bottom edge, RS facing, and sew along the diagonal edges marked 1 on the template. Repeat with the lining piece and other interfacing piece. Step three With RS together, bring the side seam just sewn to join the bottom edge. Pin and then sew to create a box corner seam, marked 2 on the template. Do this on both corners and repeat on the lining piece. 02 Step four Put the lining into the outer RS facing and pin along the open edges, marked 3 on the template. 03

Sew along the three side edges, leaving a 5cm (2in) turning gap to pull the bag RS out. Step five Clip the corners and turn the bag RS out. Slip stitch the turning gap closed. Press. Step six To keep the fabric still, tack the bag to the frame. 04 Using invisible thread, stitch neatly into place though the holes in the frame and into the top of the bag.

Box corners gives the clutch a roomy, yet neat finish.

TEMPLATE 3 Top edge

Flip pattern at this line

3

1

2 Bottom edge Fold

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My Little Dino

PHOTOGRAPHY: ADAM GASSON, STYLING: HELENA TRACEY, JEN GARDNER

Rawwwww! Yan Schenkel of Pica Pau shows us how to crochet this friendly amigurumi dinosaur – no fangs included

HOW TO MAKE… A CROCHET DINOSAUR MATERIALS ■ DMC Natura Just Cotton, 100% cotton, 50g/155m, two balls in Light Green (12) and one ball each in Coral (8) and Jade (20) (only small quantity required) ■ 2.75 mm (UK 11, US C/2) crochet hook ■ Toy stuffing ■ Two 8mm black safety eyes ■ Stitch marker ■ Tapestry or yarn needle TENSION Just ensure your stitches are dense enough for no stuffing to poke through. ABBREVIATIONS (UK) st(s) stitch(es) ch chain ss slip stitch dc double crochet inc increase by making 2dc in st dc2tog double crochet 2 together – (insert hook in next st, yarn round hook and draw loop through) twice, yarn round hook and draw through all 3 loops on hook. Magic ring Hold thread in your hand and wrap working yarn around forefinger twice to create ring, slip ring off your finger and insert hook to pick up first st, ch1, then work the necessary sts for round 1 and close the ring tightly by pulling the close end. FINISHED SIZE Approx. 19cm (7½") high

Meet Eduardo the dinosaur. He may try his best to project a fearsome image but, truth is, if you bumped into him at Jurassic Park, he’d probably be relaxing by the lake eating lemon drizzle cake rather than trying to munch on any passing humans. Eduardo is made in a continuous spiral, from a foundation chain (instead of a magic ring) and worked in one piece – yep, he’s practically seamless. As it's a continuous spiral, it helps to place a stitch marker at the start of each round. The head, body and legs are made in one piece. The tail, spikes and spots are made separately and sewn together. Foundation Using light green yarn, ch8. Stitches will be worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Round 1 inc in 2nd ch from hook,

5dc, 4dc in next (last) st, continue on the other side of the foundation chain, 5dc, inc in last st [18sts] Don’t forget to put the stitch marker at the first st in the beginning of each round. Round 2 inc, 7dc, 2inc, 7dc, inc [22sts] Round 3 2inc, 8dc, 3inc, 8dc, inc [28sts] Round 4 3inc, 10dc, 4inc, 10dc, inc [36sts] Round 5 (5dc, inc) 6 times [42sts] Rounds 6–10 1dc in each st around Round 11 (5dc, dc2tog) 6 times [36sts] Round 12 7dc, (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times, 5dc [30sts] Round 13 (3dc, dc2tog) 6 times [24sts] Round 14 4dc, (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times, 2dc [18sts] Insert the safety eyes, using the

image as a guide for placement. Fill the head firmly with stuffing and, from this point, continue stuffing as you go. Round 15 8dc, 3dc2tog, 4dc [15sts] Rounds 16–17 1dc in each st around Round 18 2dc, inc, 12dc [16sts] Round 19 1dc in each st around Round 20 3dc, inc, 12dc [17sts] Round 21 1dc in each st around Round 22 3dc, inc, 13dc [18sts] Round 23 1dc in each st around Round 24 4dc, inc, 13dc [19sts] Round 25 1dc in each st around Round 26 5dc, inc, 13dc [20sts] Round 27 7dc, ch8 (to form the backbone of the dinosaur), you now work around this ch8 in the same way as the first round of the head (both sides of the new foundation chain, plus the neck). Place your stitch marker in the next

st (as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point), inc in 2nd ch from the hook, 33dc, inc in the last st [37sts] Round 28 2inc, 33dc, 2inc [41sts] Round 29 3inc, 36dc, 2inc [46sts] Round 30 (4dc, inc) 9 times, 1dc in last st [55sts] Round 31 1dc in each st around Round 32 (5dc, inc) 9 times, 1dc in last st [64sts] (At this point your critter will look just like Nessie emerging from the Loch) Rounds 33–39 1dc in each st around First back leg Divide the work to crochet the four legs. In order to do this, you have to find the middle of the dinosaur body at the back. Continue crocheting 1dc around until that Subscribe at molliemakes.com

point (if you’re not already in there). Then work 2dc, place the stitch marker in the next st, 9dc, ch6. Join the last ch and the dc with the stitch marker with an ss. The leg will be formed from the 9dc from the body and the new 6ch foundation chain. Continue working the first back leg: Round 1 15dc (9 from the body and 6 from the ch) [15sts] Rounds 2–5 1dc in each st around Round 6 (1dc, dc2tog) 5 times [10sts] Round 7 dc2tog 5 times [5sts] Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. First front leg Count 9 sts along from where the

first back leg is (this will become the belly) and attach the yarn to the next st (10th st along). Work 9dc, ch6 and join the last ch and the first dc with a ss. Repeat Rounds 1-7 as the first back leg. Second front leg Count 5sts along to the left from where the second front leg is (this is the space between the legs) and attach the yarn to the next st (6th st along). Work 9dc, ch6 and join the last ch and the first dc with a ss. Repeat Rounds 1-7 as the first back leg. Second back leg Count 9sts along to the left from where the first front leg is (this is the other side of the belly) and attach the yarn to the next st (10th

HOW TO MAKE… A CROCHET DINOSAUR 1st st after the last leg you made. Row 1 5dc, turn Rows 2-3 ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc, turn Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap between the front legs in same way. Using the tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front legs and the back flap to both back legs. Fill each leg with stuffing. Using the tapestry needle, sew the wide belly flap to the other side of the dinosaur. Then sew the belly flap to both the legs and the flaps between them, stuffing the body as you go.

Time to go explore the blue and purple Jurassic mountains!

st along). Work 9dc, ch6 and join the last ch and the first dc with a ss. Repeat Rounds 1-7 as the first back leg. Belly Between the legs you have 9st spaces along the sides and 5st spaces at front and back. The belly is made by creating flaps from these sts. Start with the 9st space between the back and the front legs. Attach the yarn to 1st st next to the first leg you made. Row 1 9dc, turn Rows 2-12 ch1 (does not count as st), 9dc, turn Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The back underbelly is made in the same way. Attach the yarn to the

Tail Round 1 Using light green yarn, start with a magic ring, 5dc in ring, pull ring tight [5sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around Round 3 inc in each st around [10sts] Round 4 1dc in each st around Round 5 (1dc, inc) 5 times [15sts] Round 6 1dc in each st around Round 7 (2dc, inc) 5 times [20sts] Round 8 1dc in each st around Round 9 (3dc, inc) 5 times [25sts] Round 10 1dc in each st around Round 11 (4dc, inc) 5 times [30sts] Rounds 12–14 1dc in each st around Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Fill with stuffing. Large spikes (make 6) Round 1 Using coral yarn, start with a magic ring, 5dc in ring, pull

ring tight [5sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around Round 3 inc in each st around [10sts] Round 4 1dc in each st around Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Don’t stuff. Medium spikes (make 2) Round 1 Using coral yarn, start with a magic ring, 5dc in ring, pull ring tight [5sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around Round 3 inc in each st around [10sts] Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Don’t stuff. Small spikes (make 2) Round 1 Using coral yarn, start with a magic ring, 5dc in ring, pull ring tight [5sts] Round 2 1dc in each st around Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Don’t stuff. Spots (make 6) Round 1 Using jade yarn, start with a magic ring, 6dc in ring, pull ring tight. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finishing Stuff the tail and then sew it to the body. Sew the 10 spikes, descending from the largest to the smallest ones along the dinosaur back spine towards the tail. Finally, sew the spots to the body using the image as a guide for placement. There you go – Eduardo's ready for adventures.

Yan Schenkel Toy maker, crochet designer, mother and illustrator, Yan is the founder of Pica Pau toys. She first began combining her drawings with crochet while waiting to pick her son up from school, and six years later has collaborated with several designers and top brands in Argentina, illustrated a children’s book and designed for stop motion animations. www.elmundodepicapau.com

SUN SEEKER

You can Make it this weekend! Get in on the floral trend with this simple but effective flower. By Kirstie McLeod.

Th is wou ld lo ok great n as a co rsag e on a plai fo r dress - ju st th e th in g su mmer weddi ng s

THE COLLECTION

STOCKING STITCH

DK WEIGHT

3½MM

YOU WILL NEED DMC, Woolly (100% Merino wool, 50g/125m) 1 ball of each: Yarn A Orange (10) Yarn B Yellow (093) A pair of 3½mm needles A green button For yarn stockists contact DMC 0116 275 4000 www.dmccreative.co.uk

S

ummer hats are great for keeping the sun off, but they can be a bit boring, can’t they? Why not jazz up yours with one of these dainty flower adornments? Working each of the 10 petals individually, this is a great project for when you’ve only got 15 minutes spare for knitting! You could even whip up a selection in different colours.

K OUTER FLOWER (MAKE 5) Cast on 4 sts using 3½mm needles and Yarn A. Row 1 (WS) Purl. Row 2 (RS) K1, kfb, kfb, K1. [6 sts] Row 3 Purl. Row 4 K2, kfb, kfb, K2. [8 sts] Row 5 Purl. TENSION Row 6 K3, kfb, kfb, K3. [10 sts] Yarn used knits as DK to this Row 7 Purl. tension: 28 sts and 40 rows to Row 8 K4, kfb, kfb, K4. [12 sts] measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Row 9 Purl. st st using 3½mm needles Row 10 K5, kfb, kfb, K5. [14 sts] Row 11 Purl. ABBREVIATIONS Row 12 K6, kfb, kfb, K6. [16 sts] For a full list see page 92 Row 13 Purl. Row 14 K7, kfb, kfb, K7. [18 sts] SIZE Rows 15–17 Starting with purl row, Approx 15cm diameter work in stocking stitch. Row 18 (RS) K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [14 sts] Row 19 Purl. Row 20 K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [12 sts] Row 21 Purl. Row 22 K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [10 sts] Row 23 Purl. Row 24 K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [8 sts] Row 25 K1, (k2tog) 3 times, K1. [5 sts] Each petal is knitted separately and sewn Row 26 Purl. together into this pretty flower shape.

Row 27 K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, K1. [3 sts] Row 28 P3tog. Fasten off. INNER FLOWER (MAKE 5) Cast on 4 sts using 3½mm needles and Yarn B. Row 1 (WS) Purl. Row 2 (RS) K1, kfb, kfb, K1. [6 sts] Row 3 Purl. Row 4 K2, kfb, kfb, K2. [8 sts] Row 5 Purl. Row 6 K3, kfb, kfb, K3. [10 sts] Row 7 Purl. Rows 8–9 Starting with purl row, work in stocking stitch. Row 10 (RS) K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [8 sts] Row 11 Purl. Row 12 K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [6 sts] Row 13 Purl. Row 14 K1, (k2tog) 3 times, K1. [5 sts] Row 15 Purl. Row 16 K1, sl1, k2tog, psso, K1. [3 sts] Row 17 P3tog. Fasten off. TO MAKE UP Weave in all loose ends. With matching yarn join the petals at the base to make a flower shape in each colour. Secure the two flowers together and add the button to the centre. Attach to hat. NEXT MONTH GET CRACKING WITH SOME PATCHWORK LIVING ROOM ACCESSORIES. ISSUE 124, SEPTEMBER, IS ON SALE FROM FRIDAY 15 AUGUST.

STEP-BY-STEP SL1 K2TOG PSSO

1 Insert the point of the right-hand needle into the next stitch as if to knit and slip it on to the right-hand needle.

2 For the next stitch, insert the right-hand needle into the next two stitches on the left-hand needle and knit them together.

3 Insert the point of the left-hand needle into the slipped stitch on the right-hand needle and take this stitch back over the k2tog.

4 Take the slipped stitch off the right-hand needle and drop it off the left-hand needle. The slipped stitch will slope towards the left.

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PATCHWORK PROJECT

biscornu cushion

You will need nF  our (4) different fabric pieces measuring 9½ x 19in each n5  00g of toy filling nT  wo (2) buttons nS  trong thread such as perle cotton #12 nP  ilot Frixion pen or similar removable pen.

5

Place your two squares RST, but rotate the top one (which will have the marks in the corners) 180 degrees so that the fabrics on the two sides don’t match up. Move the top square across to the right so that the marked cross of the top-left corner lines up with the seam intersection of the pieced square below (Fig 3). Pin. Fig 3

BEHIND THE DESIGN Fig 4

Designed and made by JO AVERY

BISCORNU CUSHION

Biscornu means ‘complicated and bizarre’ in French. Perhaps a better translation would be ‘quirky’, which only goes some way to describe the fascinating geometry of this cleverly shaped and quick-to-make cushion.

1

3

2

4

Making the cushion Cut each fabric piece in half to give you eight (8) 9½in squares Place in two piles of four (4) different fabric squares each.

Take one of your piles of four (4) fabric squares and sew together to form one (1) large four-patch square (Fig 1). Fig 2

Sew the remaining four (4) fabric squares together to make a mirror image of the first pieced square, so that when you put them RST they match up. Using a ruler and a removable pen mark a ¼in seam in each corner on the wrong side of one of your squares (Fig 2). Fig 2

6

Start to sew along the top edge from the exact point of your marked cross (don’t reverse beyond) until you get to the first seam intersection of the top square, which will coincide with a ¼in seam allowance in the top-right corner of the square below. Stop at the seam intersection with your needle inserted and ready to pivot (Fig 4). Turn the rest of your top edge to line up with the right side edge of the square below. Keep the edges aligned and sew until you get to the next marked cross, which will be directly above the seam intersection of the pieced square below. As before pivot here and turn your top fabric until its edge lines up with the next edge of the square below. Join us at www.todaysquilter.com

Finished size n1  6in square approx.

Notes nW  e used fabrics from the Eden collection by Tula Pink for Free Spirit Fabrics. nR  ST = Right-sides together.

7

Continue sewing around the squares in this way, one half edge at a time before turning the fabric. Stop just after the last corner, sewing just an inch along the last half edge before backstitching to secure, leaving most of the final section open. Go back to the starting point and sew an inch in the opposite direction before backstitching again to secure (Fig 5).

8

Turn your cushion inside out and poke all the corners out well. Stuff with the toy filling, but be careful not to over stuff (Fig 6). Fold under the seam allowances of your opening and pin or use clips to close. Sew closed with a doubled-up thread using a small neat ladder stitch. Fig 5

You could also try using a pompom or a tassel in the centre instead of a button.

Fig 6

Fig 7

9

Take the stronger thread and double it up. Thread a long needle and knot the end. Insert the needle through the centre of your cushion where the seams intersect, and sew right through to the same point on the other side. Make small stitches back and forth pulling tightly on the thread to pull the centre points together. Secure firmly with a knot, but don’t cut the thread (Fig 7).

10

Using the same thread sew a button on to each side of the cushion at the centre point, sewing all the way through between the two sides as before to secure the two buttons on each side. Knot securely and cut the thread to finish.

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TECHNICAL TIP The pearly effect buttons used here look lovely, but you always need to be careful when using buttons for projects that might be around children, as they can be a choking hazard. If in doubt, rather sew on felt circles in the centre, or simply leave plain instead.

6 ways with… banner dies 1

No.1 dad

3

Use banners to accent other die-cuts, like the rosette here. I die-cut the rosette, assembled it together and added a circle to the front. Then I attached the die-cut banner shapes to the back of the rosette before adding to the base card. I added another die-cut banner as an accent on the corner of the card. This design would work really well for a congratulations card too.

Oh happy day

To create this classic bunting design, I used die-cut banner shapes in a mix of coloured and patterned papers. Choose embellishments like buttons and brads to complement the colours in the bunting to pull the design together. Use some baker’s twine above the banners and tie some small bows to finish the ends. I used sticky fixers to attach the die-cuts to add dimension and interest.

2

With love

Try creating faux bow embellishments with die-cut banners, like this simple bow made from contrasting patterned paper and coloured card. I die-cut the shapes, pinched the centres, layered them together and glued a small strip of card around the middle to finish the bow. Complete the faux gift look by adding strips of coloured card horizontally and vertically across the card.

6 ways with… banner dies

Get the most out of your basic banner dies with these six imaginative, stash-stretching card ideas from Clare Buswell

4

Happy birthday

Banner dies are one of those must-have dies in your stash. They’re so versatile and are one of those go-to dies for creating many different card designs. You can very easily create striking patterned backgrounds and embellishments using banner dies, and there are lots of creative possibilities in addition to just creating banners. To make these die-cuts stand out in your cardmaking, I’ve found it’s best to stick to a limited colour palette – try two or three colours in various shades and patterns for a well balanced design. For a more fresh and modern look, stick to a white base card, especially if you’ve used lots of patterned papers and bright colours.

For stockists turn to page 91

Larger banner dies can be used to great effect to frame a card and create an interesting focal point. Here I used three different size banner dies: I used the smaller die to deboss a banner shape directly onto the base, using low-tack masking tape to keep the die in place while debossing. I used the two larger dies to cut a frame from patterned paper and attached this to the base with sticky fixers.

5

Thank you

Die-cut banners can be used in a mix of patterned papers and colours to create a unique and trendy pattern. For this modern look, I die-cut banners from a variety of papers and arranged them to create a pattern. It’s best to stick to two or three colours in various shades for the best effect. Choose embellishments to complement the colours of the design to pull the look together.

6

Hello

Use your imagination and see what you can create using die-cut banners! Here I cut three banners from coloured card and patterned paper. I added small triangles cut from contrasting card for the ears, baker’s twine for whiskers and sequins for eyes and noses. Cut a simple S shape for the tails, and attach the bodies with sticky fixers.

we mini makes!

I’m wIth the band Make a necessity into an accessory! Jo Carter’s custom-made lanyard and card holder are inspired!

c he mt o r f t u Stand o

lting show… ny qui at a d row

YOU WILL NEED ■ Lanyard fabric 95cm x 5cm (or

equivalent scraps) ■ Pen holder fabric 8cm x 7cm ■ Hanging loop fabric 3cm x 9cm ■ Quilter’s vinyl, clear plastic 13cm

x 10cm ■ Front panel fabric 14cm square ■ Lining fabric 15cm square ■ Backing fabric 13cm x 17cm ■ Pocket binding fabric 15cm x

6.5cm ■ Binding fabric 55cm x 6.5cm ■ Batting 15cm square ■ Lobster clip

FINISHED SIZE ■ Lanyard 91cm long approx, plus

lobster clip ■ Card Holder 13cm x 14cm

approx

NOTES ■ Seam allowances are 5mm throughout, unless otherwise noted. ■ SFQ = standard fat quarter. ■ RST = right sides together.

CUTTING OUT

1

From the lanyard fabric cut one (1) 95cm x 5cm strip, for the lanyard. Alternatively, piece together some 5cm-wide scraps to form a 95cm x 5cm strip.

2

Treat your group of friends to one of these for your next show.

■

From the backing fabric cut: ■ One (1) 13cm x 6cm rectangle, for the

upper envelope back. One (1) 13cm x 11cm rectangle, for the lower envelope back.

MAKING THE LANYARD

3

Press under 5mm twice on each of the longer sides of the pen holder piece. Then sew close to the open edge of the fold, to hem (Fig 1).

4

Measure 15cm from one end of the lanyard strip and mark with a pin – this is where the bottom of the pen holder will be. With both the lanyard fabric and pen holder piece right side up, position the pen holder across the lanyard so the raw edges align with the long sides of the lanyard – the pen holder will loop up because it's wider than the lanyard. Baste together along the sides to hold the pen holder in position (Fig 2).

Try piecing the lanyard strip together using fabric scraps.

58 www.LOvEpATCHwORKANDqUILTING.COM

5

Press under 1cm on the short sides of the lanyard. With wrong sides together, fold the lanyard in half lengthways and press –

the pen holder will extend beyond the fold and needs to be pressed in half too (Fig 3). Open it out again and then fold each long side into the centre so that the raw edge meets the central fold and press once again – keep the sides of the pen holder flat to the lanyard and fold and press them with it.

6

Keeping the sides folded into the centre, fold the entire lanyard in half again along the original central fold so that it's a quarter of its original width. Sew together along the long open side, close to the edge and over the pen holder. Return to the pen holder and sew another line of stitches close to the first, just on the pen holder, to secure (Fig 4).

7

Thread the lobster clip onto the lanyard, then bring the ends together (check that the lanyard isn’t twisted). With a 1cm seam allowance, sew together securely (Fig 5).

8

Turn the seam to the inside. With the ends inside the loop of the lanyard, fit the

Oh-so cute Constructing the lanyard… Fig 1

Fig 2

Whe n you fold th e lan yard st rip in half, yo ne ed to fold th e pe n u holder in half, too.

Fig 3

15 c The handy back pocket is great for notions or business cards.

Fig 4

m

The pen holder piece is wider than the lanyard strip so it will loop up at this stage.

Add an extra line of st itc he s along just th pe n holder to se cure it.e Fig 5

lobster clip in-between and then sew across the lanyard, above the lobster clip, to seal it and the ends in place. Sew across the lanyard again 5mm – 10mm above the first line of stitches for added strength (Fig 6).

Fig 6

MAKING THE CARD HOLDER

9

Make a quilt sandwich with the front panel, batting and lining fabric. Quilt as desired and then trim to 13cm square.

Sew the lobster clip in place and hide the lanyard seam at the same time.

10

Press under 5mm twice on the bottom long side of the upper envelope back piece and sew close to the open edge to hem. Press under 5mm twice on the top long side of the lower envelope back piece and hem as before.

11

With right side up, position the lower envelope back on the reverse of the front panel so that the raw edges align at the sides and bottom. Place the upper envelope back right side up, aligning the raw edges with the top and sides of the panel and having the hemmed edges overlapping in the centre (Fig 7). Baste the

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Top Tip Save any old lanyards you have from previous shows, and use the lobster clips from these to make yourself some new ones. Fig 7

www.LOvEpATCHwORKANDqUILTING.COM 59

p ng u Great for usi

s… rap c sc i r fab

envelope back pieces in place close to the edge.

Constructing the card holder…

Bind one long edge of the vinyl and then baste to the front panel.

12

With wrong sides together, press the pocket binding piece in half lengthways. Line up the raw edges of the binding with one of the long sides of the vinyl pocket and, using a 1cm seam allowance, sew in place. Bring the binding over to the other side of the vinyl and machine-sew down. Trim off any excess binding (Fig 8).

Fig 8 Fig 9

13

Position the vinyl pocket over the lower section of the front panel and then baste in place close to the edge (Fig 9).

14

With wrong sides together, press the hanging loop in half lengthways, open out and then fold and press each side into the centre. Fold along the central fold again and sew along the open side close to the edge. Bring the ends together so that they are next to each other and baste to hold in position (Fig 10). Find the top central point on the reverse of the card holder and baste the hanging loop in place (Fig 11).

Fig 10

15

With wrong sides together, fold and press the binding fabric in half along the length and use it to bind the edges of the card holder (using a 1cm seam allowance), as instructed in step 12, mitring the corners.

16

Fold the hanging loop up and sew to the binding so that it is fixed in an upright position (Fig 12). Clip the lanyard and card holder together to finish.

jo carter England

www.twoowls.typepad.co.uk jo2owls

60 www.LOvEpATCHwORKANDqUILTING.COM

Make sure you sew the hanging loop to the reverse side before binding the edges. Fig 12

Fig 11

Fold the hanging loop upwards and stitch in place to the binding.

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