Gen 2 table holder plans An attachment for the 2x72” tilting belt grinder
Some important notes: 1. To use this attachmen attachment, t, you will first first have to build my 2x72” 2x72” tilti tilting ng belt grinder grinder. Plans for it and the platen attachment (the grayed out parts shown above) are available here: http:// etsy.me/2sm5uvg etsy .me/2sm5uvg Plans & Sketchup models for all other attachments & jigs are available on my website, here: http://jerswoodshop.com/2x72-tilting-belt-grinder/ http://jerswoodshop.com/2x72-tilting-belt-grinder/ 2. It is assumed assumed that that you will will build and use use the belt grinder grinder and this this attachmen attachmentt in a safe manner, therefore, few safety precautions are set forth in these plans. Build and use at your own risk. I am not responsible for any injuries caused by the manufacture and use of the belt this attachment. 3. grinder Building Buildingorassumptions assum ptions:: It is assumed assumed that that you have a basic basic knowledge knowledge of fabrica fabricating ting and metalworking. These plans will give you a few pointers and what techniques worked best for me, but they will not tell you how to set your welder, etc., since I assume you already know how to do that. All welds on the build may be ground & touched up for looks, so long as you don't grind away the structure of the weld. Everything should be checked with a square prior to welding, and all parts should be built with good precision, for best results. 4. Painting Painting should should be left to the the end of the build, build, after after testing testing is complete. complete. Some Some parts parts may need to be modified slightly, so it’s best to leave painting for after that’s done. 5. If you haven't haven't seen the YouT YouTube ube build video video for this attachme attachment, nt, please please watch it prior prior to building the attachment: https://youtu.be/6lbUuRWsiFg https://youtu.be/6lbUuRWsiFg 6. If you have have any questions, questions, or if you you find any errors errors in these these plans, plans, you can contact contact me me at
[email protected].
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Parts list: “Used in…” indicates which step(s) in the plans use this part. Refer to that step or steps for more information about that part. Part/material name
Size
Quantity
Used in…
Steel flatbar
3/8” x 1-1/2”
20”
Steps 1 & 9
Steel flatbar
3/8” x 2”
16”
Steps 1, 8, &10
Steel plate
3/8” thick
5” x 8” minimum
Step 5
Steel square bar
1-1/2” x 1-1/2”
16-1/2”
Steps 2 & 6
St Stee eell plat plate e for for tabl tables es
3/8” 3/8” thic thick k reco recomm mmen ende ded d
Ap Appr prox ox.. 8” x 8” fo forr ea each ch
Making tables, page 9
Steel tu tube fo for ta tables
1-1/2” s sq quare, 1/ 1/4” wa wall
Approx. 9” 9” fo for ea each
Making tables, page 9
Grade 8 nut
3/8"-16
1
Step 4
Grade 8 bolts
3/8”-16 x 3/4”
4
Step 13
Flat washers
3/8"
4
Step 13
Bolt or handle
3/8”-16 x 1”
1
Step 13
Nomenclature:
Table
Tool arm
Table holder ho lder Mounting plate Table
Locking handle
Connecting structure
Support structure Table post Table tube
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
1-1/4”
Step 1 Start by cutting out the parts to make the table tube. The left and right sides of the tube are made from 3/8 x 2” flatbar,, and the front and back of the tube are 3/8 x 1-1/2” flatbar flatbar. Cut out the sides according to the drawing on the right. This drawing may be printed and used as a template, but be sure to confirm the dimensions after printing. After
3/4”
45° 1:1 scale
tapping the holes in the left side plate, remove any burrs from them so the surfaces are perfectly flat. The back plate of the tube is 4-1/2” long, and the front plate is 4” long overall, with the end beveled to 45°.
” 2 / 1 4
3/8”-16 tapped holes (left plate only)
1/2”
Step 2 Set the tube up to be welded together. Clamp the four parts around a piece of 1-1/2” square bar bar,, using a 0.030-0.050” thick shim on two sides, so the inside dimensions of the tube will be at least 1.53 x 1.53”. I used utility knife blades as shims. Tack weld each edge in 3 or 4 places, but do not weld it solid yet. Remove the clamps and slide the tube o" the 1-1/2” bar (this will take significant force). Once it is removed from the bar you can finish welding it solid. To prevent the tube from warping into a rhombus shape, you should only weld about 1” per edge before moving to a di"erent corner. This will cause the whole tube to heat up more evenly, evenly, rather than getting a build-up of heat in one area.
3 ”
1 / 2 ”
1” 2”
0.030” shims
O"set leaves space to fill with weld
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Step 3 Tables will be secured in the table tube by a locking handle installed in the right front corner of the tube, so you need to weld in a nut to accept that locking handle. Start by grinding/filing a flat spot on a 45° angle into the corner of the tube. The center of the flat spot should be 2-1/4” up from the bottom of the tube, and the flat area should be about 3/4” square. Note: because of the angled weld on the corner of the tube, the flat spot may appear to be at the wrong angle even if it’s it’s right, so trust your protractor,, protractor not your 2-1/4” eyes.
~3/4”
Step 4 Find the center of the flat spot, and drill a 7/16” hole through the corner of the tube at a 45° 45 ° angle. Use caution when drilling, since the bit may catch in the corner of the tube. Remove any burrs from the hole. Place a 3/8”-16 nut in the center of the flat spot, and carefully weld it in place. The table tube is now complete. Tip: You can use a bolt to hold the nut in place while you weld. Use a 3/8”-16 x 1” bolt with a washer, threaded into the nut from inside the tube. The bolt also keeps weld spatter from getting in the nut.
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Nut Washer
Bolt
Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Step 5 Get started on the connecting structure by cutting out the left & right sides from 3/8” thick steel plate, according to the template below. The left side is identical to the right, except that it lacks the 1-3/4” bit that extends forward, as shown. 3/4”
1-1/4”
45° ” 2 / 1 2
2”
R i g h t s i d e
L e f t s i d e
7 / 8 ”
1:1 scale 45° 1-3/4” 1”
1 3 / 4 ”
45° 5/8” 2-3/8”
2-3/8”
Step 6 Cut your 1-1/2” solid square bar to 16-1/2” length to use for the tool arm. Cut a 45° bevel on the end, as shown below.
Tool arm 16-1/2” overall length
45° 1/4” 1-1/4”
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Step 7 The sides of the connecting structure will be welded to the tool arm as shown on the right, but before welding, you need to chamfer the edges of the tool arm and the side plates to create a “V” to fill with weld. Once the chamfers are created, remove any burrs and make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Then clamp the two side plates to the tool arm, make sure they’re
Chamfers
square, and tack them in place. Don’t weld them solid yet.
V to fill with weld
Step 8 Tack weld a 1-3/4” long piece of 3/8 x 2” flatbar into the front of the connecting structure, angled to join both of the sides together as seen in the pictures on the right. Don’t weld it solid yet.
Step 9 Fill in the top and bottom of the connecting structure with small pieces of steel to create a tube. I used 3/8 x 1-1/2” flatbar for this since I had it on hand, but thinner material would work as well. These pieces close in the structure, which helps it resist twisting forces, and makes it look nicer. The exact placement of the pieces is not critical as long as they close up the tube. Once all the pieces are tacked in place, you can finish welding all of the seams on the connecting structure, including welding the sides onto the tool arm.
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
2”
Step 10 Cut out the mounting plate from 3/8 x 2” flatbar, according to the template on the right. Drill the 7/16” holes and remove any burrs left by the drill.
Step 11
1/2”
The mounting plate will be welded to the right side of the connecting structure, but it needs to be spaced away from the connecting structure by 1/8”. Cut a 1-1/2 x 1-3/4” shim, from 1/8” thick steel. Make sure the shim doesn’t have any burrs or bumps that prevent it from sitting flat. Place the shim on the right side of the connecting structure with a ~1/8” reveal on 3 sides, as shown below.
1”
Shim
1:1 scale
” 3
” 4
7/16” holes
Step 12 ~1/8” reveal
Place the mounting plate centered on top of the shim and clamp it lightly. The mounting plate should be centered vertically on the end of the connecting structure and the front edge of it should be flush with the front edge of the connecting structure. Be sure it is square to the tool arm, then tack the mounting plate in place on all four corners. Then weld the mounting plate solidly to the connecting structure on all four sides.
y l l d a e r c e i t t r n e e V c
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Step 13 Assemble the table tube onto onto the connecting structure structure using four 3/8-16 x 3/4” bolts and flat washers. With the bolts loose, you should be able to rock the tube back and forth a couple degrees. Thread a 3/8”-16 locking handle or bolt into the corner of the table tube, and be sure you can slide a piece of 1-1/2” square tube into the tube and lock it in place. If everything works as designed, you can disassemble and paint the parts. Mask o" the tool arm and the inside of the table tube, as well as the threaded holes. Reassemble, but leave the bolts loose for now.
Step 14 Your new table holder attachment is now complete, but it needs to be adjusted so the table tube is parallel to the platen. Secure a piece of 1-1/2” square tube in the table holder as shown below, and use a scrap of wood or metal as a feeler gauge to check the gap between the square tube and the platen. Slide the block up and down the platen, adjusting the angle as needed until the square tube is parallel to the platen. Once parallel, tighten the four bolts securely. securely. Note: you’ll see in the photo that I left the belt on the grinder during this operation. This keeps the platen “preloaded” to be 1/2” thick sure it is in its “feeler gauge” normal use position. This may not be necessary, necessary, but that explains why I did it. Your table holder is now complete and ready to use.
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
Making tables The purpose of the table holder is to allow you to cheaply and easily make whatever sort of o f tables you want, therefore this section is only a few guidelines & pointers to help you make your tables. The table post is made from 1-1/2” thick-walled square tubing, and in most cases 9” length seems to work about right. Too far; may I made my primary table from 3/8” steel plate, 8” cause chatter square. Ideally, Ideally, the table post should be close to the belt. If the post is too far from the belt, the thin table that spans that distance will flex minutely and cause chatter. You You can also help prevent chatter by adding a support structure under the table, such as a few pieces of flatbar standing on edge, welded to the table post. You can make tables at any an y angle, and since the table holder’s vertical tube is parallel to the belt, the angle just Tube is close to needs to be correct relative to the table post. Be careful belt; prevents when welding the table to the post to prevent excessively chatter warping the table. Of course, there is really no limit to what can be mounted in the table holder; it is not restricted to just tables. Get creative, and I’ll be interested to see what kind of jigs you can come up with!
Support structure
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Gen 2 table holder plans
© 2018 Jeremy Schmidt
