Model Engineers 6 March 2015

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Vol. 214 No. 4503 • 6 - 19 March 2015

A Hot Ericksson Air Engine

MEX: Internal Combustion Awards

150 Years of

Hunslet

Engine Co.

Hammer Forming a Dome

Steam Tug Kerne

ENGINEERING GROUP

NEW IEn-S SEnR derso

Join our online community www.model-engineer.co.uk

£3.40

Her History and Her Future

THE ORIGINAL MAGAZINE FOR MODEL ENGINEERS

353

366

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Vol. 214 No. 4503 6 - 19 March 2015

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

352 SMOKE RINGS News, views and comment on the world of model engineering.

353 STEAM TUG KERNE: HER HISTORY AND HER FUTURE Paul Kirkbride logs her past life and reports on a recent HLF award.

Henry Wood makes the mechanical lubricator.

362 HELPING DAD MAKE A TRUE VERTICAL MILL ENGINE Stewart Hart describes a simple engine, ideal for encouraging youngsters.

366 150 YEARS OF HUNSLET ENGINE CO.

http://www.facebook.com/modelengineersworkshop http://twitter.com/ modelengineers

James G. Rizzo models an attractive engine.

Ted Jolliffe makes good use of household cast-offs.

370 MAKING THE R & B ENGINE Ian Strickland revisits a Model Engineer design of 30 years ago.

An alternative technique described by Roger Curtis.

388 MODEL ENGINEER EXHIBITION: I/C ENGINE AWARDS Eric Offen muses over the 2014 medal and trophy winners.

391 FIT FOR A PRINCESS A boiler for an LMS Pacific by Clive Fenn.

258 CLUB NEWS Geoff Theasby takes a look at what is happening in the clubs.

FREE FOR ALL NEW UK SUBSCRIBERS*

261 DIARY

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Vol. 214 No. 4503 • 6 - 19 March 2015

NEW ES SERI erson-

Join our online community www.model-engineer.co.uk

And Hot Ericksson Air Engine

MEX: Internal Combustion Awards

150 Years of

Hunslet

Engine Co.

Hammer Forming a Dome

Steam Tug Kerne

£3.40

Her History and Her Future

THE ORIGINAL MAGAZINE FOR MODEL ENGINEERS ME4503 Cover.indd 341

www.model-engineer.co.uk

379 NEW SERIES: THE ANDERSON-ERICKSSON HOT AIR ENGINE, 1897 384 GLEANINGS

Richard Linkins looks back to the birth of an industry.

ENGINEERING GROUP

The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before any part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information retrieval systems. All reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the magazine contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or for any loss however arising from such errors, including loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk. Model Engineer, ISSN 0026-7325, is published fortnightly with a third issue in May and October by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd, Enterprise House, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF, UK. The US annual subscription price is 70.95GBP (equivalent to approximately 118USD). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Air Business Ltd, c/o Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to Model Engineer, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at CDS GLOBAL Ltd, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Market Harborough, Leicester, LE16 9EF. Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent.

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358 EMMA VICTORIA

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ON THE COVER... 1913 Steam Tug Kerne has recently been awarded Heritage Lottery Funding and is about to undergo extensive repairs at the Cammell Laird shipyard on the Mersey. The history of this vessel is documented in an article on page 353. (Photo: Jim Stevenson.)

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6 SPEED METAL LATHE WITH 12 SPEED MILL DRILL- CL500M 430mm between centres Compound slide with 4 way tool post Power fed screw cutting facility Forward/reverse lathe operation Clutch for independent £ .00 799EXC.VAT mill/drill operation £ ALSO AVAILABLE: 958.80 INC.VAT CL430 - As above but without the Mill/Drill head £669.00 exc.VAT £802.80 inc.VAT FULL RANGE OF ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE

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CMV140 MODEL JAW WIDTH CV100B 100mm CVR100B 100mm CV125B 125mm CVR125B 125mm CV150B 150mm CVR150B 150mm CMV140 140mm

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METAL LATHE 300mm between centres LH/RH thread screw cutting Electronic variable speed Gear change set Self centering 3 jaw chuck & guard Power feed CL300M

BOLTLESS QUICK ASSEMBLY STEEL SHELVING

• Simple FROM ONLY fast assembly £ .98 29EX.VAT in minutes £ .98 using only 35INC.VAT INCLUDES SINGLE Shown fitted with a hammer LOCKABLE optional 3 drawer unit ONLY DRAWER £84.99 Ex.VAT £101.99 Inc.VAT MODEL DIMS ASSEMBLES WxDxH (mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT AS BENCH OR CWB1000B 1000x650x880 £149.98 £179.98 CORNER UNIT CWB1500B 1500x650x880 £199.98 £239.98 CWB2000B 2000x650x880 £259.98 £311.98 CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS • Sturdy lower shelf • Durable powder coated finish

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High SILVER & GALVANISED STEEL quality 14EX.VAT tungsten £ .99 MEASURING 17INC.VAT steel EQUIPMENT Supplied in metal storage case, FROM ONLY except 16pce £ .98 TYPE EX VAT INC VAT 9EX.VAT .98 £ 16pce Metric £14.99 £17.99 11 INC.VAT 24pce UNC/UNF/NPT £19.98 £23.98 MODEL DESCRIPTION EX VAT INC VAT 28pce# Metric £23.99 £28.79 CM100 150mm/6" Vernier Caliper £9.98 £11.98 33pce# Metric/UNF/BSP £31.99 £38.39 CM180 0-25mm Micrometer £9.98 £11.98 32pce Metric £41.99 £50.39 CM145 150mm/6" Digital Vernier £16.99 £20.39 #28pce Best Budget Buy, 33pce CM265 300mm/12" Digital Vernier £36.99 £44.39 Recommended: .99

HYDRAULIC LIFTING TABLES • Ideal for lifting & moving models • Foot pedal operated

HTL500

FROM ONLY EX.VAT 259.00 £ INC.VAT 310.80

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MAX. TABLE HEIGHT LOAD MIN-MAX EX VAT INC VAT HTL300 300kg 340-900mm £259.00 £310.80 HTL500 500kg 340-900mm £279.00 £334.80

POLISHING KITS •Kit Inc: Tapered spindle, Coloured mop for initial cleaning, pure cotton mop for high polish finish & polishing compound 4" £19.98 Ex VAT £23.98 Inc VAT 6" £24.99 Ex VAT £29.99 Inc VAT 8" £29.98 Ex VAT £35.98 Inc VAT

FROM ONLY .98 19EX.VAT .98 23INC.VAT

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HUGE CHOICE IN-STORE/ONLINE

CAT133 CAT134 CAT136 CAT137 CAT139

welding with optional accessories

ARC/TIG INVERTERS

£

CAT131 DESCRIPTION EXC.VAT INC.VAT 3" Cut off tool £22.99 £27.59 1/4" Die Grinder £19.98 £23.98 1/2" Impact Wrench £59.98 £71.98 13Pc 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit £74.99 £89.99 3"Cut Off Tool & 1/4" £47.99 £57.59 Die Grinder 1/2" Reversible Ratchet £34.99 £41.99 6" Dual Action Sander £34.99 £41.99 3/8" Keyless Reversible Drill £34.99 £41.99 150mm Air Hammer inc 4 Chisels £19.98 £23.98

MODEL MAX. MOTOR PC20 2HP PC40 3.5HP PC60 5.5HP

FUSE 10 amps 20 amps 32 amps

EX. VAT £229.00 £269.00 £319.00

INC. VAT £274.80 £322.80 £382.80

CRT40 .98 29EXC.VAT £ .98 35INC.VAT £

Kit includes: CORDLESS ROTARY • Height adjustable TOOL WITH 262 PCE stand with clamp KIT ONLY • Rotary tool • 1m £32.99 EX.VAT flexible drive • 40x accessories/consumables £59.59 INC.VAT

MACHINES

NEW FROM ONLY .98 169EXC.VAT .98 203INC.VAT

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• Bend, Roll & Shear metal up to 1mm thick • Min. Rolling Diameter 39mm • Bending angle 0-90º MODEL BED WIDTH EX VAT INC VAT SBR305 305mm £169.98 £203.98 SBR610 610mm £349.00 £418.80

MON-FRI 8.30-6.00, VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE OPEN SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00 *NEW STORE

23299

EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 GATESHEAD 50 Lobley Hill Rd. NE8 4YJ 0191 493 2520 GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ 0141 332 9231 GLOUCESTER 221A Barton St. GL1 4HY 01452 417 948 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435 HULL 8-10 Holderness Rd. HU9 1EG 01482 223161 ILFORD 746-748 Eastern Ave. IG2 7HU 0208 518 4286 IPSWICH Unit 1 Ipswich Trade Centre, Commercial Road 01473 221253 LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS 0113 231 0400 LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN 0116 261 0688 LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG 01522 543 036 LIVERPOOL 80-88 London Rd. L3 5NF 0151 709 4484 LONDON CATFORD 289/291 Southend Lane SE6 3RS 0208 695 5684 LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18 020 8803 0861 LONDON 503-507 Lea Bridge Rd. Leyton, E10 020 8558 8284 LONDON 100 The Highway, Docklands 020 7488 2129 LUTON Unit 1, 326 Dunstable Rd, Luton LU4 8JS 01582 728 063 MAIDSTONE 57 Upper Stone St. ME15 6HE 01622 769 572 MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666 MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376 MANCHESTER SALFORD* 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851 MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South 01623 622160

MODEL AT101‡ AT132 AT161 AT135

ELECTRODE AMPS DIA. 10/80 1.6 – 2.5mm 10/130 1.6-3.2mm 10/160 1.6-4.0mm 30/130 3.25mm

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ARC ACTIVATED HEADSHIELDS CWH6

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V

BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd. 0121 358 7977 B’HAM HAY MILLS 1152 Coventry Rd, Hay Mills 0121 7713433 BOLTON 1 Thynne St. BL3 6BD 01204 365799 BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 BRIGHTON 123 Lewes Rd, BN2 3QB 01273 915999 BRISTOL 1-3 Church Rd, Lawrence Hill. BS5 9JJ 0117 935 1060 BURTON UPON TRENT 12a Lichfield St. DE14 3QZ 01283 564 708 CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675 CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN 029 2046 5424 CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG 01228 591666 CHELTENHAM 84 Fairview Road. GL52 2EH 01242 514 402 CHESTER 43-45 St. James Street. CH1 3EY 01244 311258 COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE 01206 762831 COVENTRY Bishop St. CV1 1HT 024 7622 4227 CROYDON 423-427 Brighton Rd, Sth Croydon 020 8763 0640 DARLINGTON 214 Northgate. DL1 1RB 01325 380 841 DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED 01332 290 931 DONCASTER Wheatley Hall Road 01302 245 999 DUNDEE 24-26 Trades Lane. DD1 3ET 01382 225 140 EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace 0131 659 5919

• Used for ARC & TIG welding, utilising the latest technology • Low amp operation - ideal for auto bodywork & mild PRICE CUT /stainless £ .98 steel 129EXC.VAT £ .98 AT161 155INC.VAT

ROTARY PHASE CONVERTERS ALSO AVAILABLE

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CAT127

MODEL CAT127 CAT128 CAT131 CAT132

EX.VAT 229.00 £ INC.VAT 274.80

ROTARY TOOL KIT

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• Variable speed • 250mm between centres • Power feed, optional screw cutting

Quality machines 131INC.VAT from Britain’s FULL RANGE OF leading supplier HEADSHIELDS, TIPS, WIRE, • All models featured are turbo GAS & MORE MIG fan cooled (except PRO90) • See online 135TE for included accessories MODEL AMPS EX VAT INC VAT MIG 102NG# 90 £109.98 £131.98 STATIC PHASE MIG 145* 135 £149.98 £179.98 CONVERTERS PRO90 90 £179.98 £215.98 • Run big 3 phase woodworking PC60 MIG 105EN* 100 £184.99 £221.99 machines from 1 phase supply MIG 130EN* 130 £224.99 £269.99 • Variable output power MIG 135TE 130 £239.98 £287.98 to match HP of motor MIG 151TE 150 £269.98 £323.98 to be run #No Gas only *No Gas MIG welder can be converted to gas

£

MODEL

389EX.VAT .80 466INC.VAT

CL25OM

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1

FOR 6 TILES

Tables tilt 0-45° left & right FROM ONLY £ .99 Depth gauge 59EX.VAT Chuck guards £ .98 B=Bench mounted 71INC.VAT F=Floor standing MODEL WATTS/ EXC.VAT INC.VAT SPEEDS CDP5EB 350/5 £59.98 £71.98 CDP101B 245/5 £79.98 £95.98 CDP151B 300/5 £106.99 £128.39 CDP10B 370/12 £169.98 £203.98 CDP301B 510/12 £199.98 £239.98 CDP451F 510/16 £239.98 £287.98 CDP501F 980/12 £429.00 £514.80

IN-STORE PHONE 0844 880 1265 ONLINE www.machinemart.co.uk

WHERE QUALITY COSTS LESS

574INC.VAT MILLING DRILLING MACHINE - CMD300 £

CATALOGUE GET YOUR FREE COPY!

MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St. PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY POOLE 137-139 Bournemouth Rd. Parkstone PORTSMOUTH 277-283 Copnor Rd. Copnor PRESTON 53 Blackpool Rd. PR2 6BU SHEFFIELD 453 London Rd. Heeley. S2 4HJ SIDCUP 13 Blackfen Parade, Blackfen Rd SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd. SOUTHEND 1139-1141 London Rd. Leigh on Sea STOKE-ON-TRENT 382-396 Waterloo Rd. Hanley SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown SWANSEA 7 Samlet Rd. Llansamlet. SA7 9AG SWINDON 21 Victoria Rd. SN1 3AW TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk. WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ

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£

when Arc is struck • Protects to EN379 • Suitable for arc, MIG, TIG & gas welding CMW-9

9 DRAWER WOODEN TOOL CHEST

• Felt-lined drawers • LxWxH 610 x 280 x 440mm £ PRICE CUT 109.98 EXC.VAT • Keep precision tools £131.98 INC.VAT safe and tidy WAS £143.98 inc.VAT

OPEN 7 DAYS 3 EASY WAYS TO BUY... IN-STORE 65 SUPERSTORES

ONLINE www.machinemart.co.uk MAIL ORDER 0115 956 5555

CLICK & COLLECT

Minimum call charges from a BT landline are 5p/min to 0844. Calls from mobiles and other networks may vary. For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE.

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‘A Touch of Class

ollowing n extensive re rresearch searc r h with leading n authority Mr. Mr.Anthony r An A thony t n Mount engineer Moun u t we are r pleased to of ooffer ffer our latest re rrelease lease fo fforr the model eng ngi g neer Thee Gar Garrett Compound. to machine and a d build. Th an T arrett t Royal Show Comp m oun u d.

arting n Using original sales literature and period engravings as the starting ate point we have developed this kit, offering the builder a chance to re-create in miniature the engine displayed at the Derby Royal Show in 1881.

Whilst remaining within the scope of many home workshops, with a flywheel diameter of 152mm, wood base at 170mmx405mm andd cylinder castings alone weighing around 3kg this is a substantial model.l. ur The clear informative drawing pack details each part and uses colour nd coded diagrams to reveal the inner working of the majestic compound cylinder arrangement. The kit comprises the following: Cast iron ron flywheel ro flflywhe h el (152mm m dia.) Grey iron cylinder halves (H.P.22mm 22mm m L.P P.32mm 32mm m x 32mm m stroke). Engine base, Engine bed. Crank cast Cra rank bracket bra r cket casting. cas a tin ing. Precision Precis Pr i ion o cas at crank halves, slide bar brackets an Stainless aand nd bell crank. cra rank. Sta t in i le l ss steel H.P & L.P P. cylinder end cap blanks. Steel go balls, Stainless pump balls, ggovernor vern rnor balls l , Sta t in i le l ss steel pum ump balls l , Steel drive band, Copper tube, Machined achin i ed hard h rd ha r wood base bas a e and and comprehensive an com ompre r he h ns n ive drawing drawin dr ing pack, which suggests other materials ateri rials l and and fixing an fifixin ing that tha h t will be required. r qu re q ire r d.

Cost inc VAT £365.00 UK Mainland Post £14.00

Garrett’s Royal show Compound

a kit for the model engineer to machine’

Bird Industrial Park Long Marston Stratford upon Avon Warks CV37 8RP

T 01789 721444 www.modelsteamenginesuk.com

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University Technical Colleges

How often do we find ourselves listening to, if not taking part in discussions about the demise of the teaching of engineering in schools - a subject rarely off the agenda at Model Engineering clubs up and down the country? I was recently sent a press release by a company announcing its sponsorship of University Technical College (UTC) Swindon and it prompted me to write a little about these relatively new educational establishments. The existence of UTCs may be news to some readers who might have a family member that has recently started high school but who may be better suited to a more vocational education. (I know only too well that the recent overemphasis on academic learning does not, in my opinion, suit all children and can in some cases have a detrimental effect.) The aim of the new Government backed colleges, which are similar in structure to an academy or free school, i.e. non-selective, free and not directly funded by a local authority, is to address

MEET THE EDITORIAL TEAM DIANE CARNEY Editor

STEWART HART Technical Assistant

YVETTE GREEN Designer

www.model-engineer.co.uk

An appropriate send-off for Len Crane

recognised skills shortages existing and of the future - by designing a curriculum that covers all core subjects but then also focuses heavily on one or two (usually) vocational areas, typically engineering, health sciences, digital technologies, manufacturing, transportation and construction disciplines. Once offered a place, children start their college career from age 14 and by the time they leave at 18 or 19 they are equipped with valuable practical skills and are well prepared for a smooth transition into higher education, apprenticeship or directly into their chosen career. The brainchild of Kenneth Baker and the late Sir Ron Dearing, each UTC (every one of which is a wholly new college, not a ‘converted’ school) is sponsored by a University and a number of local and national companies which are encouraged to work closely with students, providing them with equipment, facilities and placements which is, of course, in their own long term best interests an consequently those of the nation. On 1st March 2011 Lord Baker was quoted as saying that he wanted one hundred

As promised I have a photograph taken at the celebration of Len Crane’s life that took place at the Black Country Museum on February 6th. Len became interested in model engineering when aged about 11 and his working days started as a Silversmith in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Apart from his interest in steam engines, Len was British Motorcross Scramble Champion twice in the late 1960s, his racing career taking him all over the country. He completed several model locomotives and an award winning traction engine, taking the DOE Challenge Cup at the Model Engineer Exhibition. The day was very well attended and friends spoke movingly about Len’s many achievements, emphasising his willingness always to share his knowledge and expertise with fellow enthusiasts.

UTCs to be up and running by 2015; at the time there was only one, in Staffordshire, named after it’s founder and main sponsor, JCB and whose lead academic sponsor is the Harper Adams University. He may have been a little optimistic but there are now over 30 and about 20 more due to open in the next one to two years. Further information can be gained by going to www.utcolleges.org

Southern Railway locomotive rally

It is some time since the last Southern Railway Locomotive Rally took place but Guildford Model Engineering Society have kindly offered to host such an event on 30th May 2015. The Rally is open to both operational and static models of locomotives (steam, diesel and electric) built and operated by the Southern Railway and its predecessors (SECR, LSWR, LBSCR, S&DJR and L&B amongst others). Items of 16mm, 3½, 5 and 7¼ inch gauges may be run or displayed (valid boiler certificates are required if appropriate). It would greatly assist in planning the event if you could please register your interest with brief details of the engines you would like to exhibit or run via the dedicated email address: southernloco@ gmes.org.uk If you require further information, please contact Les Pritchard on 07792 629674 or Ivan Hurst on 01252 510340.

More passengers at Babbcombe!

I must correct a mistake (my typing error) in Graham Astbury’s article in issue 4501 about the Babbacombe Cliff Railway. Graham kindly pointed out that the car capacity should read 36 standing (and 4 seated), rather than the 6 standing as printed. Apologies to Graham and the Babbacombe Cliff Railway for the error. 352

Steam Tug Kerne

Her History and Her Future! Kerne leaves Dutton Lock on the Weaver Navigation. (Photo: Jim Stevenson.)

Paul Kirkbride tells the story of a much loved steamship.

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T

he salvation of the Steam Tug Kerne began at 19.59 hours on the 11th August 1968 in Liverpool Lime Street Station. On that summer evening the Fifteen Guinea Special arrived at the station buffer stops and an almost total ban on steam hauled trains began on British Railways. Other than a few narrow gauge lines and even fewer fledgling standard gauge preserved railways, steam was almost dead in Britain. Sixteen thousand steam railway locomotives had been, or were about to be scrapped and countless other pieces of steam machinery were doomed as outdated. The future Britain was to be a land of Brutalist architecture and modern transport forged in the white heat of a technological and scientific revolution. This swift change brought about a popular national

movement to secure what was left of the steam age, which had served Britain well for over 200 years. A general wave of warm feelings towards steam engines of all kinds swept the country. It was felt that what was left should, if possible, be saved from the heartless planner’s axe and scrapman’s cutting torch. Scroll forward to the Christmas holidays 1970. Three young men met at a snowy Princess Half Tide Dock, Liverpool to look over the Steam Tug Kerne. After a foray into industrial steam locomotive ownership and the associated problems of where to keep and run a standard gauge steam railway engine, even if to buy one in running order was only £100, the idea of steam boat ownership seemed a good one. After all, we argued, the last coal fired steam vessel on The Mersey

needed someone to step forward and save her. The river and the sea gave unlimited ‘track’ to run her on without the bureaucratic battles we had encountered on land and she was a manageable size as ships go. No one else was going to do it and Kerne’s days were numbered. Liverpool Museum had talked half heartedly about giving the triple expansion steam engine a home in store if they were offered it but our idea was to save and run the whole vessel. As luck would have it Bert Williams, the Engineer arrived at the tug whilst we were poking about. He had come to put a few dozen shovels of coal on the banked down fires ready to have steam up after the holidays. Bert, we later discovered, had worked on the Irrawaddy Flotilla and was a dedicated steam man. His Skipper, Ron Hayes later

353

>>

said he was the only man who kept Kerne running and the only man who could stick the job, particularly as the triple expansion engine had no steam reverser and was hard work to operate. Bert had looked after his realm down below well and in the welcome warmth and half light, the golden brown and cream paintwork set the old engine and boiler room off a treat. He told us she was in good order considering that other than the Admiralty boiler installed in 1936 everything was built in 1912 - 1913. With the continuing slow decline in the lighterage trade and the increasing cost of keeping Kerne in steam for intermittent jobs, she was finally laid up on the 21st March 1971 and replaced by the motorised TID Tug, Trover. With a little judicious probing we found that the only bidder was likely to be a local scrap dealer operating a yard on Garston Beach and that he thought he would get the Kerne for £500. With our ranks swelled to six we sent a delegation to the delightful, but soon to be demolished Victorian offices of Liverpool Lighterage Company at Old Church Yard, Liverpool, which was situated in a cobbled side

In her working days at Chatham Dock as S. T. Terrier.

Taking part in the Queen’s Silver Jubilee Review of Shipping in 1977. street behind St Nicholas’ Church near the Pier Head. We put in a bid for her of £525; £25 over scrap value. The Lighterage Company were a little worried about competition and our suitability to take the tug on, but after various assurances were given they agreed that ‘business was business’ and the best price would win. Thus we became ship owners. An operating company The North Western Steamship Co. Ltd. was subsequently set up with the sole aim of preserving and operating the tug and widening the list of shareholders.

One of her annual trips up the River Weaver in Cheshire. 354

Over the years maintenance jobs almost too numerous to mention, have been undertaken on the tug with regular dry dockings, new decks, wheelhouse, funnel and bulkheads, two boiler retubes including the screwed stay tubes and much, much more. Major slipway repairs were undertaken at Ramsey Shipyard on the Isle of Man when doubler plates were applied to weak shell plating as a medium term repair to extend the vessel’s life. Since 1971 she has been in steam most summers and many adventurous voyages

have been undertaken to destinations such as Mostyn, Conwy, Port Penrhyn, Caernarfon, Porthmadog, Preston, Heysham, Glasson Dock and The Isle of Man. The voyages of 1993 are fondly remembered with a trip through the Menai Straits to Caernarfon and onward to Pwllheli and Porthmadog in the company of the Steam Dredger, Seiont II. (Poor old Seiont, which was built in 1937 and kept in lovely condition as a museum ship by the Museum of Wales at Caernarfon, was sadly scrapped by the Museum in 1999 after concerns about hull plate thicknesses and museum budgets.) Kerne has done numerous steamings for trips up and down the Mersey, the low water trip out to the Mersey Bar on the ebb tide and back on the flood being a favourite. Other trips have been inland to Ellesmere Port, Manchester on The Manchester Ship Canal and up the River Weaver to Anderton. The later voyages have become more difficult as the years have gone by due to the lack of dredging on the Weaver Navigation. Kerne draws 10 feet and the maximum stated depth on the river is 10 feet 6 inches, a figure not always achieved, so of late a shallower drafted motor tug has helped us through the worst sections. Unfortunately, the suction to the condenser circulating pump is situated

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

PRESERVATION NEWS

very low on the hull of Kerne, so in muddy water the risk of blockage and an overheating condenser resulting in leaking condenser tubes is always present. As a temporary ‘Heath Robinson’ measure, when we expect the mud problems, a petrol pump is rigged with an over-the-side suction directed through the main deck fire connection to the condenser to boost the flow. We hope to soon fit a high level suction to alleviate the problem. Relative coal costs for trips out on Kerne have increased over the years, particularly since we now burn Russian steam coal. Although the tug will burn most coal suitable for natural draughting, we have found Russian coal to be excellent and very controllable with little or no smoke and very low residual ash and soot, making life much easier in the stokehold. The downside is the cost - now at over £260 per tonne in bulk wagonloads. We burn 1 tonne for a slow light up over a three-day period and about 3 to 4 cwt per hour on full ahead. In 2008 a new phase of her preservation career began when the owners, largely drawn from the original players, formed a charitable trust, The Steam Tug Kerne Preservation Society Ltd., which took over the operation and preservation of the vessel with the additional aim to educate the public about the history and operation of Kerne. Lately concerns over the condition of the hull under the boiler have meant a self imposed temporary halt to sea going voyages, but steamings have continued each year within inshore and inland waterways limits.

A brief history of the Kerne

23rd December 1912: Steam Tug Viking was launched from Montrose Shipbuilding Company, Scotland, Yard number 55. She had an open bridge and folding funnel and had been ordered by Mr. Gerdes-Hansen a Danish Shipping Agent with offices in The City of London.

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The unmistakable Liverpool waterfront.

Let shovelling commence! The bunkers hold about 12 tons. (Photo: Jim Stevenson.) 19th January 1913: Viking was towed to Dundee by Paddle Tug Anglia for the installation of a 300 HP triple expansion engine built by W.V.V. Lidgerwood of Speedwell Ironworks, Coatbridge, Scotland and a twin furnace coal fired Scotch boiler. Speedwell Ironworks had American owners with works in the USA, Scotland and Brazil, and was known for its ‘extremely fine triple expansion engines’ for trawlers, tugs and coasters. Speedwell Ironworks, New Jersey, USA built the engine for S.S. Savannah, the first steamship to cross the Atlantic which arrived in Liverpool on the 22nd April 1819. To commemorate this, 22nd May is now designated National Maritime Day in the USA.

1st February 1913: Viking returned under tow to Montrose for final fit out. Paddle Tug Anglia, on slipping the tow and leaving Montrose harbour, hit the Midlead Rocks and sank. P.T. Anglia was a total loss but the crew were saved. 6th March 1913: Viking was completed and sailed under her own steam bound for London. She was not registered as a Merchant Navy commercial craft. By 1914 Mr. Gerdes-Hansen was listed as bankrupt. 1912/ 1913: Winston Churchill, as First Sea Lord, ordered the return of the three Mediterranean Fleets to the UK and a further increase

Waiting to lock into the Boat Museum at Ellesmere Port on the Manchester Ship Canal. in warship building due to a maritime arms race in the build up to World War One. The Royal Navy urgently required additional tugs to meet increased demands at the dockyards. 18th April 1913: Viking was added to The Navy List at Chatham Dockyard Tug as H.M. Tug Terrier. She was now an Admiralty Yard Service Craft; Blue Ensign, buff funnel, two blue bands and black top and buff superstructure. 1913 to 1948: H.M. Tug Terrier serves through two World Wars at Chatham Dockyard as a Basin tug. She is now the only operational coal fired naval steamship from World War One. >> 355

Technical details: Gross tonnage: 62.71

Main engine: W. V. V. Lidgerwood, Glasgow, No. 397. Triple expansion.

Displacement: 153

Cylinders: 10 inch, 17 inch, 28 inch x 1 foot 6 inch stroke.

Length o/a: 77 feet

Horsepower: 400 BHP.

Breadth: 18 feet

Boiler Pressure: 180 psi.

Depth: 8 feet 5 inches

Propeller: 7 feet 10 inches, three blade, cast iron.

1936: H.M. Tug Terrier received new Scotch boiler built to Admiralty specification. 15th March 1948: H.M. Tug Terrier was replaced by TID Class tug and sold to J. P. Knight Ltd., tug owners of Rochester. As all Knights’ vessel names began with the letter K, Terrier was renamed Kerne and registered in London as No. 241 of 1948, Official No. 181972. 19th September 1949: Kerne was sold to The Straits Steamship Co. Ltd., Liverpool. She sailed under her own steam from Chatham to Liverpool, non-stop in four days. She was engaged in lighterage work towing barges

about the Mersey, Liverpool and Birkenhead Dock systems, River Weaver, Manchester Ship Canal and Manchester Docks. Over time various modifications were made: fixed funnel, enclosed wheelhouse, open wash ports, etc. 1965: Sold to Liverpool Lighterage Co. Liverpool. (Same controlling owners as The Straits Steamship Co.) 21st March 1971: Laid up, replaced by motorised T.I.D. Tug Trover (which was found to be underpowered and unsatisfactory). 14th October 1971: Final payment by the preservationists to The

Canning Dock, Liverpool, during her Centenary year, 2013. 356

Skipper’s eye view; the wheelhouse of the Kerne. Liverpool Lighterage Company for purchase of Kerne, made at The Lighterage Yard, Northwich, Cheshire. 23rd October 1971: First preservation era steaming by the new owners from her layup berth at Wellington Dock, Liverpool to Morpeth Dock Birkenhead. 15th February 1977: The North Western Steamship Co. Ltd. incorporated to preserve and operate Kerne.

A future for Kerne

Members of the Steam Tug Kerne Preservation Society in partnership with the North Western Steamship Co. were delighted to receive news recently of a lottery grant of £85,200 to repair the hull of this popular local steam tug. This award was the culmination of much hard work by a group of the trust members to both write conservation and repair plans and undertake the not inconsiderable task of applying for lottery funding. In preservation, Kerne has operated from Merseyside for the last 43 years and in most respects is in very good condition. Some years ago, as mentioned above, whilst on the slipway at Ramsey, Isle of Man, doubler plates were welded to the hull under the boiler room area. Whilst these have not given any trouble, it has been felt of late that due to these older repairs - and also concerns over degradation of hull frames in the boiler room of the vessel - it was wiser to restrict the tug to inland waters. The forthcoming repairs, funded by the lottery grant, funds on hand and anonymous benefactors, will enable Kerne to resume its popular display and presentational activities and again do coastal hops to attend maritime gatherings in the North West of Britain. The last steaming of this shortened 2014 season was undertaken on the 3rd August

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

PRESERVATION NEWS

with a trip from Runcorn, via Ellesmere Port, to Sandon Dock, Liverpool. As soon as the boiler had cooled down a major three month plan of volunteer work swung into action aboard the tug. This began with the annual boiler strip down and clean followed by the heavy task of debunkering the tug of between seven and nine tonnes of coal. Not an easy task, but helped somewhat by the rigging of a 240 volt electric winch mounted on a scaffolding frame to hoist buckets of coal from the boiler room to deck level. These were then carried ashore for storage in large bags. Another unpleasant task requiring full P.P.E. was the removal of the fibreglass boiler lagging. With a two

day a week voluntary effort all the boiler valves were then removed together with every steam, water and bilge pipe in the boiler room. Firebars were also landed to join the other items in a shipping container bought to provide storage during the refit. The wheelhouse was also stripped down to a basic shell. The first 100% volunteer phase of the work is now drawing to a close. The next move will be for Kerne to be towed by D-Day veteran motor tug, Seaport Alpha (TID 34 of 1943) to the Cammell Laird Wet Basin Birkenhead. There, the boiler casing, together with the wheelhouse and funnel, will be removed in one unit and placed ashore. The stripped down boiler is then

to be lifted out to expose the area of hull requiring repair. The whole, lightened tug will then be lifted out of the water. Once the doubler plates are removed the hull and boiler room shell plates will be ultra high pressure water blasted to fully expose the areas requiring repair. Any new frames or shell plates identified will then be replaced. Whilst this is going on, it is planned that our volunteers will clean and paint the boiler shell, replace valve studs as required and the 1936 Admiralty built boiler will then be subject to a full 10 year inspection. Once the shipyard work is completed and the tested and relagged boiler and casing are returned to the tug the volunteer tasks will go

into overdrive again to refit everything stripped off the vessel prior to refit. The very achievable goal is for Kerne to involve young people in the project and to be fully operational again for steaming, not only locally but also through the Menai Straits to Portmadog by 2016. By 2016 we should see a rejuvenated vessel fit to resume voyages further afield and be more accessible to a wider audience, allowing younger people and interested groups to get involved and enjoy this working maritime steam icon. For more information and current news on Kerne, please visit our website at www.tugkerne.co.uk ME

Cruising in October sunshine on the Manchester Ship Canal.

The major part of this article was first published in The Funnel, the journal of the Steamboat Association of Great Britain. All photographs courtesy of The Steam Tug Kerne Preservation Society unless otherwise credited.

Turning at Acton Bridge. (Photo: Jim Stevenson.)

www.model-engineer.co.uk

357

Emma Victoria

PART 25

A 5 inch gauge freelance 0-4-0 Mechanical Lubricator

To lubricate the cylinders I have chosen to use a mechanical type of lubricator that is mounted behind the front buffer beam and picks up its drive via a connecting rod to a lug on the water pump eccentric strap. Some model engineers are of the opinion that this is the wrong place to mount a lubricator due to the possibility of ash from the smokebox getting onto the ratchet drive and into the oil tank. Providing a good fitting lid is made on the lubricator and also a good fitting front plate between the running boards and smokebox, then the risk is very minimal as long as these are in place when opening the smokebox door. I have used this position on a number of my own locomotives and found it to be satisfactory if the above mentioned precautions are adhered to.

Drawn and described by Henry Wood.

Continued from p.39 M.E. 4500, 23 January 2015

Bypass valve with 26g bronze spring Lid 18g brass

2 1 1/2

X

Y

Plug 8BA

If the builder prefers he could purchase a commercially made lubricator if he does not fancy having a go at building the one I have shown. This would, of course, save on building time. The advantage

Priming wheel omitted for clarity

10BA fixings Infill block Bronze spring 24g

X

Bushes soft solder into tank

3/4

1 1/4

3

Section Y-Y

Section X-X

Assembly Of Mechanical Lubricator

358

Y

Pump box 1/2 fabricated from 16g brass sheet silver soldered

with the one I have detailed is that it comprises a by-pass arrangement to allow the amount of oil delivered to the cylinders to be controlled; I don’t think this is readily available with most of the commercial lubricators that use a ratchet drive. Some control on delivery may be achieved if the drive is via a slipping clutch whereby the stroke can be varied without the need to pick up a tooth. Oil is delivered via two check valves, one mounted directly on the pump outlet and the other screwed into the bottom of the steam Tee with an 1⁄8 inch diameter pipe connecting these together. Start by making up the box. As this is mounted behind the buffer beam and out of sight I have shown this to be larger than if mounted on show, say on a running board. Also on this type of lubricator the oil inlet to the pump is higher up the pump block due to the by-pass passageway, meaning that the bottom half inch or so of oil cannot be used. If

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

SADDLE TANK LOCOMOTIVE

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1 1/2

Ø3/8

Ø7/32

Bleed hole No.63

Brass

27/32

1/4

3/8

Tap 1/8 x 40 1/4 deep

9/32

Ø1/8 silver steel

15/16

1/2 Ø1/8 ream 1/8 3 inlets No.52 15/32

3/32 Silver solder or press fit

Oil Pump Ram Tap 6BA

1/4 1/8

Drill No.50 Tap 8BA x 1/8 deep Drill No.63 open up No.38 and form seating as shown

1/4 x 40 5/32 deep 5/16

Lubricator Pump Block Mat’l: Brass

Ø1/8 ream

Ø7/16

preferred the builder could step the bottom of the box, however, this would complicate construction, or just do as I have done i.e. to drop a piece of 3⁄8 inch thick x 1 inch wide x 1¾ inch long steel bar in the base to take up this volume. Cut a piece of 16 swg brass 115⁄16 inch wide x 8½ inches long and bend up to form the sides and ends of the box. Then cut out another piece of 16 swg brass 1¼ inch x 3 inches long for the base. Check these dimensions against the box and adjust as required. The vertical end joint and the base can now be silver-soldered together to make up the box. For the lid, bend this up from 18 swg brass (this thinner section will help in getting a nice close fit around the box) then silversolder at the four corners. Fit into the lid a piece of 1⁄16 inch diameter round as shown to act as an handle when prising off the lid, this can also be silver-soldered in place. The next item is the spacer block to space off the lubricator box from the draw hook fixing. This is a piece of brass or steel, ¼ inch thick x ¾ inch wide and cut in length to sit between the buffer beam support angles as shown. Drill a 7⁄16 inch diameter hole in the middle of the block to clear the fixing nut on the front draw hook. Before riveting this to the lubricator box, mark out, drill 3⁄16 inch diameter and countersink the buffer beam for two 2BA csk. fixings. Position the block and pick up the centres, drill No. 22 and tap 2BA in the block. The block can now be positioned on the lubricator box and drilled for the four 3⁄32 inch diameter rivets, these being put in with heads on the inside and countersunk on the outer face of the block. The box can now be marked out for the two bushes that carry the drive spindle and for the pump body mounting hole in the base. For the bush locations, mark out at 1½ inch up from the base and ½ inch from the front and drill ¼ inch diameter. For the pump

Pump Cam Mat’l: Brass

Details Of Mechanical Lubricator location hole mark out ½ inch from the front and ¾ inch from the drive end on the base; this also is drilled ¼ inch diameter. To complete the work on the box assembly, turn up the two flanged bushes from 3⁄8 inch diameter brass with an 1⁄8 inch diameter reamed hole for the spindle. The bushes need to be a nice location fit in the box then soft-soldered in place.

The pump

The pump block is made from a piece of brass ½ inch thick x 1 inch wide x 15⁄16 inch long. With a piece cut to length and the ends squared off, mark out for the 1⁄8 inch diameter pump bore on one end and centre pop. Mount the block in the four jaw chuck and set the pop mark to run true. Centre and drill through No. 31, follow up with an 1⁄8 inch diameter reamer to finish the pump bore. Before removing from the chuck, turn the 7⁄32 inch diameter boss by 1 ⁄8 inch deep around the end of the pump bore, this will give the location for the light gauge compression spring. Remove from the lathe and on the under side of the block open up the pump bore to 7⁄32 inch diameter x 5⁄32 inch deep and tap ¼ inch x 40 tpi. Mark out and drill the three No. 52 oil inlet holes breaking through into the bore as shown. At ¼ inch up from the base on the back face drill No. 50 to break

through into the bore and tap the end 8BA x 1⁄8 inch deep. On the top face, mark out for the bleed screw hole at ½ inch from the pump bore. Drill down No. 63 to break into the cross drilled hole as shown, then open up with a No. 38 drill to 5 ⁄16 inch deep and finish off with a 3⁄32 inch diameter D-bit to 3⁄8 inch deep to form the seating for the bleed screw. Tap out the end 1⁄8 inch x 40 tpi to a depth of ¼ inch. The last hole to be drilled is the No. 63 bleed hole, this is positioned at 9⁄32 inch from the top face into the side of the block breaking into the No. 38 hole as shown. With all the drilling done, put the 1⁄8 inch diameter reamer through the pump bore to clear any burrs from the drilling. Make up the 8BA plug from an 8BA brass screw and plug the cross-drilled hole as shown. The next item to make is the pump ram, this I have shown made in two pieces. The ram is made from a piece of silver steel 1⁄8 inch diameter x 27⁄32 inch long. Onto this is silversoldered an end cap for the cam to operate against. This is made from 3⁄8 inch diameter brass cut to 3⁄32 inch thick with a 1⁄8 inch diameter hole drilled through. Put a small chamfer on the end of the ram where it locates into the end cap, this is to allow for a small fillet of solder to remain after cleaning up. If preferred, the cap can

be made a press fit on the ram and left at that. I make up my own ratchet wheels from ½ inch diameter silver steel. This is made 1⁄8 inch wide with 32 teeth, drilled and reamed to a press fit on the 1⁄8 inch diameter spindle. However, the builder can purchase this item which may be 7⁄16 inch diameter with 34 teeth; the number of teeth should not matter too much but the bore may need to be modified to suit the spindle diameter. For the spindle cut a length of 1⁄8 inch diameter silver steel to 3¾ inches long and thread one end 1⁄8 inch x 40 tpi for ¼ inch length. Press the wheel onto the spindle (making sure to have the teeth pointing the right way as shown on the drawing) to a distance of 7⁄16 inch. Turn up the brass collar from a piece of 3⁄8 inch diameter; face, centre and drill No. 31 to a depth of ¼ inch and follow through with an 1⁄8 inch diameter reamer, then part off at 3⁄16 inch thick. Drill No. 43 and tap 6BA for a grub screw. From a piece of 7⁄16 inch diameter brass, part off a piece ¼ inch long to make the pump cam. At 1⁄8 inch from its centre, drill No. 31 and ream 1⁄8 inch diameter to fit the spindle, then drill No. 43 and tap 6BA for a grub screw. Make up the two ratchet pawls from 3⁄32 inch thick mild steel. These are a simple >> 359

3 3/4 1/2 3/8

Ø1/4

Bleed Screw Mat’l: Bronze

diameter then produce the taper from a point to 3⁄32 inch diameter over 5⁄16 inch, then thread 1⁄8 inch x 40 tpi for a further 3⁄8 inch. After smoothing the tapered end with a very smooth file followed by emery cloth, part off at 1¼ inch long and put a saw cut across the head for screw driver adjustment.

3/16 1/16 3/8

5/16

1/8

Ratchet Wheel

Drill No.49

Drill No.49

1/4

1/16

Pawl Spring

7/16

3/16

Mat’l: Hard brass shim 0.010 thick

Details Of Mechanical Lubricator

Mat’l: Silver steel 1 1/2 === R3/16

3/16 R1/8

5 holes Ø1/8 ream

Lever

Details Of Mechanical Lubricator

Pawl Spring

1/4

Ø1/8 Press fit on spindle

Tap 6BA (position at assy.)

1/8 x 40 tpi

Mat’l: Hard brass shim 0.010 thick

1/8

1/4

Saw cut

3/32 3/8

Mat’l: M.S. 2 off, case harden

360

Ø1/8 silver steel

1/16 5/16

1/8

1/8

Paw

1/16

Ø3/8

5/16

3/32

1/8

Ø1/2

1/8 x 40tpi

1 1/4

3/16

3/32

7/16

Detail Assy. Of Spindle And Bearings

1/16

Drill No.32

32 Teeth

3/16 Tap 6BA Ø1/4

Bushes & Collar Brass

3/16

3/32

R3/32

1/16

9/16

exercise in sawing and filing to finish up with the shape as shown on the drawing. Drill the pivot hole No. 32 then case harden them using the commercially available case hardening powder. Polish them up and clear out the hole for the 6BA pivot screw. For the lever to drive the pump, this is made from 1⁄8 inch thick x 3⁄8 inch wide BMS. Mark out and drill the five holes No. 31 then ream 1⁄8 inch diameter. The 6BA tapped hole for the pawl pivot is best positioned at assembly, this will depend on the diameter of the ratchet wheel used. The same applies to the pivot for the backstop pawl fixed to the box, position for this 6BA pivot screw also at assembly. For the springs to hold the pawls in contact with the ratchet wheel I have always used little leaf springs made up from 0.010 inch brass shim. These are very easy to cut out and bend up as shown. Drill two No. 49 holes in each for the 10BA brass round head fixing screws. The bleed screw to control the delivery of oil from the pump to the cylinders is made from a piece of ¼ inch diameter bronze. Turn down a 11⁄8 inch length to 1⁄8 inch

Mat’l: BMS

With the lubricator being mounted behind the front buffer beam, some means of priming the pump must be provided for once the front plate had been removed to gain access. For this I have shown a toothed wheel fitted to the end of the spindle that can be easily pushed round with the finger. This wheel I found in an old travelling alarm clock that once housed the main spring. All that was required was to tap out its bore 1⁄8 inch x 40 tpi to suit the spindle end. If the builder is not so fortunate as I was in having this to hand, then this is a simple turning job. Made from a piece of brass 1 inch diameter drilled No. 38 and tapped out 1⁄8 inch x 40 tpi - its circumference being knurled to provide a grip for the finger - then parted off at 3⁄16 inch thick. It just goes to show that it is always wise to save any bits and pieces that may possibly come in handy at a later date. The pump body is held in the box by a single fixing, this being the oil check valve mounted at the base of the pump. Now would be a good time to make up the check valves, the right angled one for

the lubricator and the in-line one for the steam pipe. For the right angled check valve, mount a piece of 3⁄8 inch diameter brass in the lathe, face, centre and drill No. 44 for a depth of 7⁄8 inch and follow up with a 3⁄32 inch diameter reamer. Open up with a 7⁄32 inch diameter drill and finish off with a 7⁄32 inch diameter D-bit to a depth of 7⁄16 inch to form the ball seating. Tap out the end ¼ inch x 40 tpi for a depth of 3⁄16 inch. Part off at ¾ inch long, re-chuck the other way round and turn to ¼ inch diameter for 3⁄16 inch long then thread ¼ inch x 40 tpi. Remove from the chuck and at ¼ inch from the end, drill a 5⁄32 inch diameter hole to break through, this is to receive the union. Ideally, this union wants to face rearward as shown when assembled into the pump for the ease of piping up. Therefore, before drilling for the union, assemble the pump body in the box and screw in the check valve body and determine the radial position for the union so that when it is nipped up, this will finish up as shown. To make the union, chuck a piece of ¼ inch diameter brass, face, centre using the centre to form the seating as shown.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

SADDLE TANK LOCOMOTIVE

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Ø1/8 ball on 3/32 seat

Light gauge spring 32g

Saw cut

Assy. Of Oil Check Valve (steam pipe)

5/16 x 40 3/16 x 40 x 7/32 deep 3/16

3/16 x 40 Drill thro’ Ø1/16

5/32

Spring Plug Mat’l: Brass

File 3 flats as shown to allow passage for oil

Ø3/32 ream

1/4

60° taper

19/32

1/2

15/16

Ø5/32 flat bottom

3/32 c/bore to suit spring

1/4 x 40

3/32 deep

5/32

Ø5/32 (easy fit in body) 3/8 A/F hex

Spring Cup Mat’l: Brass

Valve Body

Mat’l: Brass hex

Details Of Mechanical Lubricator

Ø1/8 ball on 3/32 seat Light gauge spring 32g, Ø5/32 x 3/8 long

Ø7/32 (easy fit in body) 5/32

(Lubricator)

Ø3/32 ream

File 3 flats as shown to allow passage for oil

Dimple top face for ball

Assy. Of Oil Check Valve

3/32 deep C/bore to suit spring No.27

1/4 x 40

Spring Cup

3/16

Mat’l: Brass

7/16

1/4 x 40 9/16

3/4

Drill down 3⁄32 inch diameter for 3 ⁄8 inch depth, thread ¼ inch x 40 tpi for ¼ inch, then using the parting tool, turn down to 5 ⁄32 inch diameter beyond the ¼ inch thread to form the spigot 1 ⁄16 inch long. Part off at 5⁄16 inch o/a length. Press the union into the valve body and silversolder in place using Easy-Flo and clean up. The next item to make is the spring cup. This is made from a piece of 7⁄32 inch diameter brass. Ease this down in the lathe to be an easy fit in the body. Drill a No. 27 blind hole to suit the light gauge spring 3⁄32 inch deep; whilst still in the three jaw, file three small flats on as shown to allow the passage of oil, using the chuck jaws to space them, then part off at 5⁄32 inch long. Re-chuck the other way round on the three lobes and slightly countersink the face to allow the 1⁄8 inch diameter ball to be picked up centrally on the seating. Turn up the end cap from 5 ⁄16 inch A/F hex brass, face, centre and drill No. 27 to suit the spring to a depth of 5⁄32 inch. Turn down and thread ¼ inch x 40 tpi for 1⁄8 inch long and part off at ¼ inch o/a length. Seat an 1⁄8 inch diameter stainless steel ball onto the seating using a brass drift and light hammer, then assemble the check valve putting a smear of Red Hermetite jointing paste on the cap threads. To make the in-line check valve for the steam pipe, chuck a piece of 3⁄8 inch A/F hex brass in the lathe, face, centre and drill No. 44 for a depth of 1 inch and follow up with a 3⁄32 inch diameter reamer. Open up with a 5⁄32 inch diameter drill and finish off with a 5⁄32 inch diameter D-bit to 19⁄32 inch deep to form the ball seating. Tap out 3⁄16 inch x 40 tpi to a depth of 7⁄32 inch. Turn down to 5⁄16 inch diameter for 3⁄16 inch and thread 5⁄16 inch x 40 tpi. Part off at 15⁄16 inch long. Re-chuck the other way round and turn down to ¼ inch diameter x ¼ inch long and thread ¼ inch x 40 tpi, form the seating for the union nipple using the centre drill as shown.

Ø7/32 (flat bottom)

Ø3/32 60° seat 1/4 x 40 3/16 deep

1/4 x 40 1/4

C/bore to suit spring No.27

1/8

Silver solder 5/32 deep

Ø3/8 1/4

Valve Body Mat’l: Brass

End Cap

Details Of Mechanical Lubricator

Make the spring cup from a piece of 5⁄32 inch diameter brass, again ease this down in the lathe to an easy fit in the body. Drill a 3⁄32 inch diameter blind hole to suit the spring to a depth of 3⁄32 inch, file the three small flats as shown

5/16 A/F hex

Mat’l: Brass hex

(using the chuck jaws as a guide for spacing) to allow the passage of oil then part off at 5 ⁄32 inch long. Make up the spring plug from 3⁄16 inch diameter brass. Using the lathe, drill through 1⁄16 inch diameter, thread 3⁄16 inch x

40 tpi for 3⁄16 inch and part off at 5⁄32 inch long. Put a shallow saw cut across one end using a junior hacksaw to form a screw-driver slot for assembly purposes. ●To be continued.

361

Helping Dad make a

True Vertical Mill Engine Stewart Hart describes another engine ideal for encouraging youngsters. Continued from p.223 M.E. 4501, 6 February 2015

PART 4

This elementary engine build comes from the same stable as my Helping Dad make a Simple Mill Engine that was serialised in Model Engineer Volume 211, No. 4460, 12-25th July 2013. For anyone here for the first time, the objective is to complete a simple, low cost project that that can be made in a modestly equipped workshop with basic tooling. The intention is to stimulate further interest in pursuing this most rewarding hobby.

Drilling across the centre of a bar

The Bill of Material/Parts List is available on the Model Engineer website home page. If any reader would prefer to receive a paper copy please contact the Editor directly. www.model-engineer.co.uk

30

Centring drill: off centre rule angled. 362

There are a number of different ways to accurately drill across the centre of a bar. One favoured way is to use a drill bush. Its diameter and hole is the same as the part and you simply grip this with the part in the vice and use it to locate and guide the drill on centre. Another little trick is to trap a rule with a point on the radius of the bar and move the vice until the rule is sitting level. When it is, you’re on the centre of the bar. Clamp the vice down, centre drill and drill to size (photos 30, 31 and 32).

The completed engine. The engine’s top plate is made from a piece of 10mm thick aluminium plate, purchased from an internet retailer. If you are lucky you may drop on a piece more or less the exact size, but

31

Centring drill: on centre rule horizontal.

if your luck is as good as mine you will end up with a bit that requires cutting to size. I have a confession here; I used my mill to get mine to size but if you don’t have the use of a mill you will have to resort to the good old hacksaw and a bit of hard work. One of the punishments for First Year apprentices found messing about in the training shop was to cut a 3 inch length from some old 2 inch diameter line shafting with a hacksaw. If you broke a blade you had to cut another length off! The 3 inch lengths were use to make levelling jacks that were part of the First Year tool kit we all had to make. Ho! Happy days… If you struggle to

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

HELPING DAD

keep the saw going straight it will help if you clamp a straight edge against the plate. (Use something that won’t cause you to cry if you saw into it.) The cut-outs in the top plate are done by chain drilling. Simply drill a line of 6mm holes at 7mm pitch. This is made considerably easier if you clamp a guide rail at the correct position on the drill table and slide the part along to drill each hole at the correct pitch, thus reducing the opportunity for errors to creep in. Use a hacksaw cut through the web and file off the dragon’s teeth to give a nice neat cut out (photos 33, 34, and 35).

Lathe work

Firstly, the four jaw chuck. You can get two types of four jaw chuck - self centring and independent. With the self centring chuck the jaws move in unison (just as they do in a three jaw) and it is used to hold square bar, whereas with the independent four jaw, each jaw moves independently of the others (it does what it says on the tin, so to speak!). You can therefore use it for holding oblong shaped parts (photo 36). You can take advantage of this for holding the engine’s cylinder to machine the flat to take the valve chest. You can also use it for positioning an off-centre hole, as for the eccentric (part 32) or the 6mm through hole in the steam chest (part 3). The simplest way to locate the part is to first mark it out (photo 37), centre pop or centre drill the location required and then use a wobble bar located in the pop mark and supported by the tail stop at the other end. Then, with a dial test indicator on the bar, move the chuck jaws so that the bar is clocking zero (photo 38). Photograph 39 shows a couple of wobble bars. You can find a good instructional video on using a four jaw chuck on Youtube (ref 1) but be warned - some of the language is a bit earthy.

32

Using a bush to locate the centre.

34

Cutting out.

36

Four jaw used to machine a flat (the packing is to prevent jaw damage).

38

33

Securely clamped for chain drilling. Note the use of a guide rail.

35

Filing off the dragon’s teeth.

37

Eccentric off-set marked out.

39

Turning between centres The first job when turning a part between centres is to actually put the centres in the

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Clocking the off-set in the four jaw using a wobble bar.

>>

A selection of wobble bars. 363

40

41

Centre drilling a long bar for between centres turning on a lathe.

42

Centre drilling the connecting rod.

44

Turning a dead centre.

46

Turning and tapping the crosshead. 364

Using a centre square to mark the centre of a bar.

43

Turning a long shaft between centres using drive dog and carrier.

45

Turning the con rod between centres. The chuck jaws are used as driving dogs. end of the bar first (photo 40) which, in some cases, has an advantage over doing it in the lathe; for example, when you have a long part that is too big to fit up the spindle of the lathe - meaning you will have a long length of unsupported bar dangerously whizzing about whilst you try and put a centre in the end. The solution is to mark the centre of the bar with a centre square (photo 41), clamp the bar in a Vee block and put the centre in on

the drilling machine (photo 42). This is the method used for putting the centres into the connecting rod (part 15) of this engine. The work is then supported between two centres; the centre in the lathe headstock is usually a dead centre - it rotates with the part and there is no friction between the parts - whereas the centre in the tailstock is termed a live centre because the tailstock it fixed and the centre rotates. A well greased dead centre can be used but you run the risk of burning it out and friction welding it to the part being turned. (Been there … done it … got the Teeshirt.) Another advantage of turning between centres is that you can remove the work from the lathe for checking or to try the fit on another part, and return it to the lathe without losing concentricity. There are various methods for driving the part (photo 43). The classical way is to use a driving pin on a faceplate with a driving dog. There are ways of utilising the chuck to secure the driving pin or even to use the jaws themselves. This is the method I prefer to use myself as it is quick to set up, particularly if you’ve already got the four jaw on the lathe. All you have to do is first turn a 60 degree cone on the end of a bit of bar - any material will do as long as its big enough to allow the part to fit between the jaws (photo 44). This becomes the dead centre. Set it back in the jaws and slip the part onto the centre allowing the jaws to drive it with the other end supported by the running centre in the tailstock (photo 45). This was the method used for the connecting rod (part 15), it being a simple job to first rough it out, slew the compound slide round 2½ degrees, generate the back taper, remove the part, flip it round and turn the taper on the other end.

Getting organised

Try and organise things so that you make parts from the same type of material at the same

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

HELPING DAD

time. Clean down and save the swarf in a builder’s bucket for resale to the scrappy - a bucket full of brass/copper swarf is worth about £20! (Remember the three R’s: Reduce, Recycle, Reuse.) I usually end up owing the scrappy £20 though, due to finding even more useful bits of material. Look for opportunities for making parts using the same type of set-up, such as doing all the four jaw work at the same time, or making more than one part off the same length of bar - such as for the covers; all these little time-savers improve your productivity and, strangely enough, the quality of your work as well.

47

48

Drill the crosshead on the bar to ease work holding.

The finished crosshead.

49

50

Holding small parts

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Filing buttons used to complete the swing arm. away and make another. You can often engineer a button to help you hold a part whilst you file it; again, taking part 17 as an example, if you make a three part button - for want of a better description - a nut, bolt and washer, you can put the washer into the 7mm gap and screw the nut and bolt down onto it. You can now firmly grip it in the vice without fear of closing in the gap whilst filing the radius. I could ramble on like this for pages but it’s about time I started to describe some of the specific parts for this engine.

The cylinder assembly: Part 1

The design is exactly the same as the Helping Dad Simple Mill Engine, except that I’ve increased its length by 8mm so that the engine’s stroke can be increased to 40mm. The objective being to reduce the speed of the engine as I think this type of engine is best run as slow as possible so that the action of the parallel motion can be observed. I’ve already covered most of the techniques required but if you require further reading I suggest

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Filing buttons and small files used. you refer to the Helping Dad With a Simple Mill Engine article in the magazine (Model Engineer Vol. 211, No. 4460). The same goes for the piston and crosshead assembly and the valve rod linkage and eccentric assembly. Now, what have we left? ●To be continued.

REFERENCE 1. www.youtube.com/ watch?v=PR3pTlDrjBU

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All too often people make the mistake of cutting just the right length off bar to make a part, only to find that there is no way of holding it to work on (I’ve got that Tee-shirt as well). If you do as much work on the part as you can whilst it is on the bar, many holding problems solve themselves. A good example of this is part 17 - the crosshead. Centre the bar up in the four jaw, turn, drill and tap M4 (photo 46). Keeping it on the bar, mark it out, then over onto the drill to drill 6mm for the crosshead pin, flip it round and chain drill 6.5mm for the slot (photo 47). With it still on the bar, over onto the vice, open the slot out with a file to 7mm, cut it off the bar and file the 5mm radius with filing buttons. Job done! Photograph 48 shows the finished crosshead. That leads me nicely to filing buttons (photos 49 and 50). A lot of people make filing buttons from silver steel that they harden. I like to make them out of mild steel as a disposable, one-off item because with a mild steel button you won’t damage your file if you catch it. In most applications you are only using one area of the button so if it becomes worn you can turn it round to an unused area so you can use it on multiple parts. Once it’s worn out, chuck it

365

Bert, a 5 inch gauge model of a quarry Hunslet.

Richard Linkins looks back to the birth of an industry.

1

150 Years of the Hunslet Engine Co. 2

Hunslet Engine Co. completed their first locomotive in 1865 and it was despatched from their Jack Lane works on 18th July. As 2015 sees the 150th Anniversary of this significant date, celebrations will take place at the Middleton Railway in Leeds, to which all are invited.

L The footplate of Bert. 366

ocomotive building started in Leeds in 1812 when Fenton, Murray and Wood built Salamanca for the Middleton Railway at the Round Foundry in Holbeck, to the south of the city centre. Salamanca was the first commercially successful locomotive in the

world and the start of the Leeds locomotive building industry. As demand grew new works were established in the parish of Hunslet, South East of Holbeck, where there was more space for expansion. The first of these was set up by Todd, Kitson and Laird (James Todd had

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

INDUSTRIAL HISTORY

been an apprentice of Murray). Their initial order was for six engines for the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, including Lion, which is, of course, still in existence. James Todd moved on to found the Railway Foundry with John Shepherd. When he moved on again, E.B. Wilson joined the Railway Foundry in 1844 and was soon in sole charge. The business grew rapidly and became one of the largest and most up to date engineering plants in the country. Their most famous product was the Jenny Lind class and production of these peaked at one per week in the 1850s. E.B. Wilson was a difficult man to work with and eventually the company closed in 1858. It had grown so large that no-one wanted to take it on but the release of so many skilled men and the availability of land resulted in new companies being formed in Hunslet: Manning Wardle in 1858, Hudswell Clarke in 1860 and the Hunslet Engine Company in 1864. There was sufficient demand to keep all of these companies busy, together with Kitsons (who had evolved from Todd, Kitson and Laird) and John Fowler & Co. Their works were all adjacent to one another.

3

Lilla.

Founding of the Hunslet Engine Company

Hunslet completed their first locomotive, Linden, in 1865 and it was despatched on the 18th July to Thomas Brassey for work on the London extension of the Midland Railway. It was a standard gauge 0-6-0ST with 14 x 18 inch cylinders. Amazingly enough this locomotive was not scrapped

until 1966, demonstrating the quality and durability of the work put into it! Most of the early locomotives were small 0-4-0T and 0-6-0T for the British market but Hunslet widened their offering and their customer base. They had to do this in order to survive because the British railway companies were expanding their own works and building their own

4

Blanche and Linda, Hunslet Works Nos. 589 and 590, leaving Tan-y-Bwlch on the Ffestiniog Railway.

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locomotives. In the first century of their existence Hunslet had supplied locomotives to 57 countries.

Locomotives

Steam locomotives built by Hunslet include designs from 18 inch to 5 foot 6 inch gauge. Building of quarry Hunslet 0-4-0ST (photos 1 and 2) of nominal 2 foot gauge, started in 1870 (for the Dinorwic quarry) and the last, Michael was built in 1932; at least 27 of these engines survive. Lilla (photo 3) to a slightly larger design was despatched to the Cilgwyn quarry in 1891. The Penryhn quarry ‘main line’ engines, Charles, Blanche and Linda were delivered between 1882 and 1893; Blanche and Linda (photo 4) are still earning their keep on the Ffestiniog Railway. Probably the smallest steam locomotive turned out from the Jack Lane works in 1898 was the 18 inch gauge Jack (photo 5), which is now preserved in the Leeds Industrial Museum at Armley Mills. Many other designs were built of nominally 2 foot gauge, including three for the North Wales Narrow Gauge railway, 0-6-4ST Beddgelert in 1878, 2-6-2T Russell (photo 6) in >> 367

1906 and 0-6-4T Gowrie in 1908; Russell survives on the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway and returned to steam in 2014 following an extensive restoration. A close relative of Russell is 2 foot 6 inch gauge Welshpool and Llanfair No. 14 (photo 7) built for Sierra Leone. In World War 1 Hunslet delivered 2 foot gauge 4-6-0Ts to the War Office and a few of these survive. No. 1215 (photo 8) has been brought back from Australia and is currently being restored. Several 3 foot gauge engines were supplied to Ireland, including six 2-6-0T (photo 9) and 2-6-2T for the Tralee and Dingle. The first three of these were built in 1889 and one of these worked until 1959 after transfer to the Cavan and Leitrim Railway, so they must have been tough as they suffered some pretty poor maintenance at times; one actually lost its chimney in the 1950s!

5

Jack. (Photo Kris Ward.)

6

Russell in 7¼ inch gauge.

8

War Office No. 1215 before restoration. 368

7

Welshpool and Llanfair No. 14. (Photo Andrew Johnson.)

9

Tralee and Dingle No. 8 in 32mm gauge.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

INDUSTRIAL HISTORY

Hunslet used standard designs as far as possible, combining existing parts to meet customer’s requirements. This allowed them to set a record in 1887 when they despatched Dom Carlos, a 3 foot 6 inch gauge 0-6-0T, in 21 days from receipt of the order. In contrast the Lartigue monorail 0-3-0T (photos 10 and 11), supplied in 1887 must have required some intense design work. These must be one of the very few designs of locomotive with an odd number of driving wheels and an even number of boilers!

Hunslet used standard designs as far as possible, combining existing parts

10

Listowel and Ballybunion replica. (Photo Kris Ward.)

11

12

to meet customer’s requirements. This allowed them to set a record in 1887 when they despatched Dom Carlos, a 3 foot 6 inch gauge 0-6-0T, in 21 days from receipt of the order. Standard and broad gauge

Hunslet supplied many steam locomotives for the standard and broader gauges. Although some were typical contractor’s locomotives, following on from Linden they were also prepared to build to specific requirements. For example, Hunslet No. 686 St. John, built for the Manchester Ship Canal, had Cartazzi leading axle boxes, flangeless centre driving wheels and knuckle joints in the coupling rods to enable it to work round tight curves. It is now on the Severn Valley Railway and has been renamed The Lady Armaghdale (photo 12).

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The Lady Armaghdale.

The three originals were built by Hunslet. (Photo Andrew Johnson.) Picton (photo 13) was built in 1927 for a sugar cane railway in Trinidad. It included piston valves, Walschaert’s valve gear and a Belpaire firebox in the design. When it was replaced by diesels (also built by Hunslet) it was abandoned and slowly surrounded by undergrowth. It was found rusted and covered in vegetation but was brought back to its birthplace for eventual cosmetic restoration The largest steam locomotive built by Hunslet was an 0-8-0T for the Nanking train ferry supplied in 1933, weighing 83 tons and with a tractive effort of 38,170lbs. Both these figures exceeded those for the Great Eastern Decapod and it is believed that the 0-8-0T was the largest tank engine ever built. A second locomotive to the same design was supplied the following year. ●To be continued.

13

Picton. (Photo Kris Ward.) 369

Making the

R & B Engine PART 8

Ian Strickland revisits a Model Engineer design from 30 years ago. Continued from p.233 M.E. 4501, 6 February 2015

Castings and drawings for this engine are available from Polly Model Engineering Ltd, Atlas Mills, Birchwood Ave, Long Eaton, Nottingham, NG10 3ND. Tel. 0115 973 6700. www pollymodel engineering.co.uk

My intention in writing up this project was to give more of a blow-byblow account for budding constructors of the R & B Engine, especially for the larger parts, as the original articles were a little light on constructional detail but contained all the plans.

P

hotograph 144 shows the set-up for facing, then drilling and boring the 3⁄8 inch diameter pivot hole. The use of a large flat headed 2BA screw ensured

144

Set-up for drilling and boring the rocker pivot etc. 370

that the pivot hole would be at right angles to the 2BA hole when clamped in the vice. The outer end was securely clamped and packing was provided under the 2BA end in the vice, to counteract the drilling pressure. The hole was finally bored to size, and this presented no problems. The ball ended item to fit the 2BA hole is straightforward turning, but the way I formed the ball was to mount the item in the dividing head so that it could be revolved against an off-set tool in the four jaw chuck. The off-set should be a few thou less than half the diameter of the ball, which was 0.300 inch. This is because the cutting tool at the end of the turning does not touch the full diameter of the ball but a little less as can be gauged from the photo. I used a right hand tool, so the lathe had to be run in reverse. Gradually feed the work towards the rotating tool until a sphere is formed (photo 145). The ball could be case hardened. A hemispherical brass cup was formed in a similar fashion, but

using an end mill of 0.220 inch diameter and the axis of the dividing head set at 45 degrees to lathe axis. The brass cup was parted off and made a light interference fit in the end of the push rod fitting. They were then lapped together to get a good fit. Use of marking blue should be used to check progress. The rocker arm support bracket was made from a ¼ inch thick BMS base plate with a turned column, bolted to each other with an M8 bolt. The original design shows the bracket made from rectangular sections but the photo on the front of M.E. 3765 shows a turned column, which I think is more pleasing to the eye. Photograph 146 shows the base plate being roughed out. It should be noted that the dimensions shown on the plans for the two fixing holes are incorrect and should be nearer 1.513 inch apart to fit the spacing of the cylinder studs. The holes should be 5⁄16 inch diameter to clear M8 if you opted for metric threads. The column is 2 inches high and turned out of 1 inch

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

AN ENGINE REVISITED

The sharp eyed among you may have noticed

145

146

that the vertical milling head is fixed to the end of the round overarm for the horizontal mill. So every time it is moved it has to be reset vertically using a

Forming the ball.

147

Cutting out the rocker mount baseplate.

148

Pro Tram device. diameter BMS. The lower part was turned down to 0.625 inch diameter by 1.1 inch. The column was mounted in the dividing head to drill and ream the rocker pivot hole (photo 147). It was then transferred to the mill, to mill out the rocker slot (photo 148). The bottom of the slot was deepened with a slot mill to provide clearance for the underside of the rocker (photo 149). The top of the cylinder head was relieved so the rocker base plate would sit flat (photo 150). One of the last jobs was to shorten the other four cylinder studs. Photograph 151 shows the finished cylinder head and valves. The sharp eyed among you may have noticed that the vertical milling head is fixed to the end of the round overarm for the horizontal mill. So every time it is moved it has to be reset vertically using a Pro Tram device from Allendale Electronics/ Machine-DRO, (ref 6). I tried using an engineer’s square against the side of the mounting block but this was not accurate enough. (The mounting block is visible in the top left of photo 89). With the Pro Tram I can get it within one or two thou in 5 inches - the distance between the dial gauges as can be seen in photo 152.

Piston

This is supplied as a cored aluminium casting. The first step is to rough turn it outside

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Reaming the rocker pivot bearing.

149

Deepening the base of the slot.

151

The finished cylinder head. and in, being careful to ensure that all faces are square to each other, and then turn it to length. The gudgeon pin is 1.5 inch from the top of the piston, and the centre line was

Milling the rocker slot.

150

Cylinder relieved for the rocker base plate.

152

Using the Pro Tram to set the milling head vertical. scribed as seen in photo 153. Set it up on the lathe cross slide suitably packed up. In photo 154 notice the use of a folded piece of kitchen roll and strips of brass to protect

the base of the piston from being bruised by the clamping bar. Also, I always support the left hand of reamers on a centre for accuracy of the reamed hole. >> 371

Next, set the piston on the mill to end mill the slot for the little end to a width of 0.820 inch. Photographs 155 and 156 show my set-up. Lengths of ½ inch diameter BMS were inserted most of

the way into the gudgeon pin holes from each side, the outer ends being packed up, and then clamps applied to the top of the ½ inch bars. Alignment was achieved with an engineer’s square

153

Scribing the piston 1½ inch from the top.

155

Set-up for end milling the little end slot.

157

Inside of the piston.

159

Set-up for drilling the piston oil hole and milling the oil slot. 372

against which Vee blocks rested (photo 155) and against these, the ½ inch bars rested. Photograph 157 shows the inside of the piston. The milling was done ‘blind’ as the milling head and cutter

154

Set-up for drilling, boring and reaming for the gudgeon pin.

156

Another view from the other side.

158

Drawbar and fixture for holding the piston.

160

Set-up for boring for the gear shaft.

obscured the view, hence the slightly untidy finish towards the bottom of the hole in the piston. The final turning to size of the piston can now be done. The piston was held by a drawbar through the lathe spindle tapped into a length of steel bar with a ½ inch hole for a dummy gudgeon pin. Photograph 158 shows an ‘exploded view’. The base of the piston was located on a spigot piece held in the chuck over which the piston skirt was a snug fit. This then allows for turning the outside of the piston without the need to hold it in a chuck. The piston was turned down to about one thou undersize and the machining marks polished away with worn emery cloth. Two piston ring grooves have to be formed as shown on the plans. Needless to say the piston rings have to be a snug fit in their grooves. The piston rings don’t come with the kit, so were obtained from Reeves (ref 8). I used the fixed steady to support the piston just to the left of the gudgeon pin holes to resist any tendency for the piston to lift under to force of the parting tool used to form the grooves. Photograph 159 shows my set-up on the milling machine for drilling the oil hole and milling the oil groove in the side of the piston. A similar mounting method was used as in photo 158. The gudgeon pin hole was brought level by the use of packing under the temporary gudgeon pin.

Valve gear and ignition bracket

The first step was to drill and bore the engine base casting for the cam shaft axle, and the M8 tapped hole for the ignition advance and retard clamp. The former was done on the horizontal milling machine (photo 160 - note that the ‘reference edge’ is parallel to the larger ‘outrigger’ mounted on the front edge of the milling table); the latter was done on the lathe boring table suitably packed up. The rear clamp bears on the underside of the

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

AN ENGINE REVISITED

overhang of the boring table (photo 161). The surface around the M8 hole was counter bored. A similar setup, but with the base casting raised higher as in photo 162, was used to drill and ream the 3⁄8 inch hole for the cam follower shaft. Next bore out the Myford gears to 1 inch ID and possibly clean up the inner rim of the 60T gear. Mine was somewhat off centre. The next step was to turn up the hubs from the cast iron stick provided, to which the gears were Loctited, and then to make the cam shaft hub for the larger gear to run on. The smaller hole in the cam shaft was reamed 3 ⁄8 inch. The lobe on the cam shaft is about 5⁄16 inch high. The original article suggested that the exhaust valve events are not too precise so that the shape of the cam is not critical. An included angle of about 90 degrees to 110 degrees looks about right. Don’t Loctite the 60T gear until the cam has been formed. The surplus metal to form the heel of the cam was removed in the vertical mill (photo 163). The surface of the entire cam was ground by hand on my Quorn Tool and Cutter grinder as seen in photo 164, until the surface came down to the 1.125 inch diameter. The shaft on which it runs is a simple turning job but don’t forget the 1⁄32 inch offset for adjusting the meshing of the gears. The ignition timing bracket is supplied as a gunmetal casting. The first step was to clean up the back by using the belt sander inverted. Then it was mounted on the milling machine raised up on ½ inch thick BMS for drilling and boring out the bearing hole (photo 165). The set-up for milling the radial slot for the advance and retard is seen in photo 166. The cam shaft hub was used as the pivot which was bolted to the mill table. Notice the two stops to limit travel. The cuts were about 10 thou deep as the ignition bracket was moved by hand against the rotation of the cutter. I had to have a

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161

162

Base casting set up on the lathe cross slide.

163

Set-up higher on the cross-slide for boring for the cam follower shaft.

164

Removing surplus metal.

165

Cam and follower surfaces ground by hand on a Quorn T & C grinder. (Wheel guard removed for clarity.)

166

Drilling and boring the ignition bracket. second go as the radius of the slot had to be increased by about 50 thou. The heals of the two cranked clamps provide a datum for the cam shaft to bear against to ensure repeatability of location.

●To be continued.

Set-up for milling the radial slot.

REFERENCE 2. The R&B Engine, Ron Acock recounts his experiences in building and running his R&B engine, M.E. 3811, October 1987, p 450, and M.E. 3813, December 1987, p 590. 6. Allendale Electronics Ltd., Machine DRO Dept., Pindar Road, Hoddesdon, Hertfordshire. 01992 450780. 8. Reeves 2000, Appleby Hill, Austrey, Warks. CV9 3ER. Tel. 01827 830894, http://www.ajreeves.com 373

Hammer Forming Dome and Chimney Bases Roger Curtis avoids both castings and mountains of swarf.

Being the old skinflint that I am I was reluctant to spend a lot of money on castings for the chimney and dome for the locomotive that I am building. I was even reluctant to spend lots of money on big chunks of metal, only for most of it to end up as swarf. It then occurred to me that I might be able to use brass tube and hammer out the ends to form the bases. Only problem was I did not have any tube anything like the right sizes and none seemed to be available.

I

then wondered if it would be possible to roll up some tube from brass sheet, silver solder the join and use that. The obvious problem with that would be annealing the metal as work progressed without melting the joint in the process. I was also unsure how the silver solder would stand up to the hammering. Nevertheless I decided to give it a go and as I had plenty of 1⁄8 inch brass

2

The blank for the chimney. 374

1

The finished dome and chimney. sheet in stock there would be little to lose. I started with the chimney because it needed the least material and, to my surprise, I managed to produce exactly what I wanted. I made a few mistakes and learnt a few lessons along the way but with these behind me I had no problems at all in producing the dome by the same method. The finished items are shown in photo 1. The first job was to cut the 1 ⁄8 inch brass sheet to form a blank for the chimney (photo 2) and there I made my first mistake by getting my sums wrong. I thought that the material might stretch a bit in the rolling process so cut a length based on the inside diameter of the chimney. Wrong! If anything it shrank a bit and I ended up having to put a strip in meaning that I had two silver-soldered joints to worry about. I also put two scallops into the bottom edge to allow for the fact that there was less material needed for the flange at the centreline than at the sides. When I came to the dome I did not bother with this but later wished I had.

Apart from the arithmetic the other mistake I made was in positioning the scallops so that the joint would be on the centreline rather than on a side of the chimney. This meant that the joints ended up in the most heavily worked part of the flange, which was not a good idea and gave problems. For the dome I put the joint on the side and everything went smoothly. I cut the brass for the chimney so that it would form a tube about 1⁄8 inch longer than the longest side and that for the dome about ¼ inch longer, both of which left about the right amount for final finishing. After a thorough annealing I set about forming the tubes using my Chinese three in one rolls/folder/guillotine (photo 3). This was asking a bit much as the 1⁄8 inch thickness of the brass was way over the capacity of the rolls to the extent that the gears between the front two rolls came out of mesh. Nevertheless with a bit of perseverance, several annealings and some brute force the tubes came into shape. In the case of the chimney the diameter of the rolls themselves was larger

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

MODELLING TECHNIQUES

than the finished diameter of the chimney so I went as far as I could with the rolls then finished the tube by using my vice to squeeze the freshly annealed blank round a bar of the right diameter which was surprisingly easy (photo 4). Photograph 5 shows the silver soldered blank which was reduced to the correct diameter in the lathe using a pair of turned wooden plugs to support it as shown in photo 6; this left a finished thickness of about 3⁄32 inch. The finished outside diameter of the dome was 27⁄16 inches so I made the tube 2½ inches in diameter to allow for trueing up. With the dome, to avoid the problems I had had with the chimney, I cut the blank so that its width was slightly longer than the outside circumference of the desired tube. This worked well as I was able to roll it up, then cut a bit out of the joint, and then re-roll it so that I ended up with a tube of exactly the desired diameter. I debated whether to form the top of the dome by cutting the top of the tube into orange segment shapes and hammering them over a former before silver soldering them together. However I happened to have a bit of 2 inch diameter brass about 1¼ inch long and decided to use that instead. This proved to be a good idea as it gave me an easy way of chucking the dome for trimming the hammer formed base later on. The only problem was that the inside diameter of the finished tube for the dome was 23⁄16 inches so I had to form a short tube of 3⁄32 inch thick brass to fill the gap. The three elements of the dome before working are shown in photo 7. Photograph 8 shows the completed blank for the dome made from the three elements. For silver soldering the three pieces were held together by three equally spaced brass pins in holes drilled through the tubes and into the solid core. Having made the dome blank the first thing I did was to put the tube end into the chuck

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3

4

Rolling up the chimney.

5

The rolled up and silver soldered chimney barrel.

Squeezing the chimney blank round a bar of the right diameter.

6

Turning the outside of the chimney barrel before hammering.

7

8

The materials for the dome. of my lathe so that I could true up both the face and the outer surface of the solid part at the other end. I then reversed the blank in the chuck and turned

The silver soldered dome blank. down the outside of the tube to its finished diameter of 27⁄16 inches which left the material of the tube 3⁄32 inch thick. This proved to be the ideal

thickness as it was thin enough to form by the hammering process but left enough for later trueing up to fit the barrel of the boiler. >> 375

10

11

The scraper used for shaping the formers.

9

The set-up for the hammering process. Note the slab of steel under the former.

Shaping the dome former.

I tried to start working as near

12

13

the beginning of the flare as I could reach but found that as the blank began to flare out it became easier to reach further into the blank with the hammer.

The chimney after the first stage of hammering.

The set-up for annealing the chimney.

Hammer forming

Now we come to the hammer forming process. The first step was to make wooden formers from squared up pieces of timber through which holes were bored to allow a sliding fit for the blank tubes. It was most important to make sure the wooden blocks were exactly square and that the hole within it was exactly in the centre so that, after machining, the finished chimney and dome would end up truly vertical when mounted on the centreline of the locomotive. It was also important to check that the finished square section could be held in the machine vice on my milling machine. I made the length of the former a little less than the length of the blank so that when the blank was put in it, with the end that is not to be worked flush with the end of the former, the end to be flanged stuck out about 1⁄8 inch from the other end. I found that he actual amount needed depends on a number of things but adjustments can be made as we work by trimming the end of either the mould or the blank. For the chimney former I found a nice piece of

376

sycamore, which has a uniform grain and is reasonably hard and which proved to be an ideal material. Unfortunately the sycamore I had was not big enough to use for the dome and all I had to hand was a piece of very close grained pine which was a bit softer than I would have liked but did the job – sort of. Many of my model engineering friends get confused over the terms hardwood and softwood. They are not the same as hard wood and soft wood. Hardwoods are defined botanically as dicotyledons, which defines the form they take when the seed begins to grow. Softwoods are monocotyledons. Botanically speaking balsa is a hardwood and yew, which is quite hard, is a softwood. All you need to know for the current purposes is that our formers are best made from an evenly grained and reasonably hard wood. To make a former I mounted a wooden block in a selfcentring four jaw chuck, bored a hole right through with a large wood bit and then opened it out with a boring tool so that the blank was a nice fit. I then

made a template of the curve that joins the barrel of the blank to the side of the boiler from a piece of card. The next step was to put a pencil line inside the bored hole, showing where the curve was to begin, and another circular line on the face of the blank at the diameter of the finished base. I then needed to flare out the blank between the two lines to a curve that fitted my template. I did this with the homemade wood turner’s scraping tool shown in photo 9. Let me now digress a little into wood turning. There are basically two methods of woodturning; one using chisels and gouges and the other using scrapers. Those who produce things like chair legs and bowls use chisels and gouges. They remove large quantities of wood very quickly and leave a very smooth surface that requires little or no cleaning up. However it takes a lot of practice to be able to use these tools with confidence and even for the expert it is very difficult to work within fine tolerances. This does not normally matter for things like chair legs as you cannot look carefully at two legs at the

same time. Next time you look at an old hand turned chair try comparing the shapes of the legs with each other and you will probably be surprised at how different they are. As they say, it is what gives old furniture its charm. But I digress. For reasons of accuracy people like pattern makers who need to work to fine tolerances generally prefer to use scrapers and, fortunately for us, scrapers are very easy both to make and use provided we follow a few basic principles. The scraper shown in photo 9 is made from an old small file with the filing surface ground off, which works well without any need for heat treatment. I also have several others that are made from mild steel with a piece of HSS parting tool silver soldered to the top to form the cutting edge. The tool shown is a Vee tool but they can be almost any shape; square across and various radii are most common. However they are made, the tool should be fitted with a fairly long handle. That on my Vee tool is about 8½ inches long, the overall length being about 12½ inches.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

MODELLING TECHNIQUES

The scraper is simply sharpened on a grindstone at an angle of about 85 degrees to the top surface. The resulting burr forms the cutting edge. Used carefully it produces fine shavings. Photograph 10 shows the tool in use to shape the flare in the dome former. The things to note about this are first, that the tool lies flat on a rest which is simply a round bar held in the cross-slide; the rest should be as close to the work as possible without getting in the way. Secondly the tool is held so that the handle is above the cutting edge and finally, the part of the work being cut is above the centreline of the work. Used in this way there is no risk of a ‘dig in’ as the action of the work moving

vice with the end of the blank resting on a piece of flat steel sitting on the top of the moving part of the vice. Photograph 11 shows this arrangement in use for the dome. The piece of steel prevents the blank sliding through the former during the hammering process. In practice I found that even with the vice quite tightly done up there was some movement of the former calling for frequent repositioning and tightening of the vice. The hammering process using the ball peen end of an 8oz hammer was quite straightforward. I tried to start working as near the beginning of the flare as I could reach but found that as the blank began to flare out it became easier to reach further into the blank with the hammer.

Botanically speaking balsa is a hardwood and yew, which is quite hard, is a softwood. All you need to know for the current purposes is that our formers are best made from an evenly grained and reasonably hard wood. against the tool tends to push the tool away from the job. For the same reason if you are turning the outside of the work it is important that the location of the cut is below the centreline of the work but again the handle must be above the cutting edge. Cutting speeds for wood turning are generally much higher than for metal and for this job I would suggest something like 1000 rpm though it is not critical. I would not normally recommend woodturning in a metal turning lathe though, for little jobs like this, there is no reason why not provided you make sure that you keep your hands well away from the jaws of the chuck as it can be very painful if you do not.

Now back to the forming process

Having made the former I put the blank in and then put it in the

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Initially the blank was well annealed following the silversoldering process but, as the hammering progressed, the metal became harder and needed reannealing. The silver-solder I used was Silver-flo 55 for which melting begins at 630 degrees C. Tubal Cain’s handbook says the work becomes ‘Barely red’ at 520 degrees C and it becomes ‘Dull red’ at 700 degrees C so there is not much room for error. Photograph 12 shows the set-up I used for annealing the chimney, which protected the part of the silver soldered joint that was not being worked on. Needless to say I was very careful about the annealing process and stopped as soon as the workpiece began to show signs of becoming red hot, especially near the soldered joint. The blank needed reannealing several times before I reached the stage shown in photo 13 with the whole

14

Fly cutting the chimney former. circumference of the blank taken to the same initial flare. The next step was to reshape the former for the final part of the hammering process. The first thing to do was to use a fly cutter in the mill to cut the top of the former so that the finished chimney would sit nicely on top of the smokebox i.e. it needs cutting to the radius of the smokebox plus about 1⁄32 inch to allow for the thickness of the finished chimney when it sits on the smokebox. Photograph 14 shows this process being carried out for the dome. It is clearly essential to make sure that the mill is lined up with the centreline of the hole through the blank if the finished parts are to sit upright on the centreline of the locomotive. Photograph 15 shows the chimney former after fly cutting and in this can be seen a circle that has been drawn on the fly cut surface indicating the location of the finished flared out end of the chimney. The next step was to cut away the timber to leave the surface

16

Finished shape of the chimney former.

shape shown in photo 16. Obviously it is desirable to make the finished shape reasonably symmetrical but if it looks okay it probably is okay. I used a mixture of wood chiselling and filing to achieve the finished shape. The annealed blank was then put back into the former. A mark was then put on the former showing location of the silver-soldered joint so that the blank could be put back in the same place after reannealing. Hammering and reannealing then continued until the final desired shape had

15

The chimney former after fly cutting.

17

The dome at the end of the hammer forming process.

>> 377

been achieved. Photograph 17 shows the underside of the dome at this stage. The shaped blank was then put in the lathe so that the edge of the flared out surface could be trued up. Photograph 18 shows the hammered blank for the dome being trued up. I took very light cuts during this process for fear of having the relatively soft brass folding up before my eyes. The blank was then returned to the former and fixed in place with a single 4BA brass screw put through the former and blank on the centreline of the workpiece. It was then returned to the mill so that the underside of the chimney could be fly cut to a nice fit on the smokebox. Photograph 19 shows this fly cutting process for the dome. It also shows the 4BA fixing screw, there to prevent the blank moving in the former during the milling process. The fly cutter obviously needs to be reset to cut the finished radius of the smokebox/ boiler cleading for this process. Again, very small cuts are the order of the day stopping when there is evidence of the cut all the way round the edge. Though I had no problem during this process with the chimney I did become concerned that before there was witness of the cut on one side of the dome, the other side was becoming a bit thin. I therefore turned a lump of timber to the diameter of the boiler cleading, placed the dome on it and gently dressed down the high spot with a wooden mallet. Photograph 20 shows the dome sitting on the lump of wood. The reason I used a mallet was because I did not want dents on the outside of the dome that would need filing away. I suspect that the reason I had this problem was because the timber used for the former was not hard enough. The only thing now left to do was to tidy up the outside of the flare using a variety of half round files and abrasive sheet stuck to bits of tubing with double sided tape. Photograph 21 shows this

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in progress for the chimney. The photo also shows the workpiece being held in the vice in the ‘wrong’ end of the former which proved a very useful trick; it also shows the tools used. With the chimney I did have a problem in that the silver solder in one of the joints spread out and became noticeably thinner during the forming process as can be seen in photo 22. This was filled with high melting point soft solder. I had no such problem with the dome. Finishing the top of the dome was an interesting exercise. Making the blank the way I did meant that it was easy to hold in the lathe chuck during some of the turning processes; it also allowed me to true up the inside and remove material that would otherwise have fouled the inner dome. I received several suggestions as to the best way of turning the hemisphere at the top including the loan of a ball turning attachment and the idea of using the rotary table

18

Truing up the edge of the flare of the dome. on the mill with the head of the mill turned through 45 degrees but the ball turning attachment would not fit my lathe and I did not fancy altering the head angle of my mill. What I did was to turn a piece of wood to a nice fit inside the dome so that I could hold it true in the lathe. Then using Excel I calculated a series of X and Y co-ordinates so that I could step turn the curve finishing off with a file.

19

Fly cutting the underside of the dome.

21

Cleaning up the outside of the flare of the chimney.

This proved much quicker and easier than I expected. All in all I found making the chimney and dome this way was a relatively easy and thoroughly enjoyable process and I will certainly use it again. And judging by the interest generated when I presented it at one of our club’s ‘Bits and Pieces’ evenings I suspect others will also be trying it. ME

20

The dome sitting on a block of the same diameter as the boiler cleading.

22

The area of the chimney flange where the silver solder became thin.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

The Anderson-Ericksson Hot Air Engine - 1897 v

James G. Rizzo models an ‘improved’ caloric engine.

T

here is no known full scale AndersonEricksson caloric/hot air engine in existence as far as the author is aware. The patent was granted on 30th March 1897 by Letters Patent No. 579670 following application No. 592,018 filed 11th May 1896. One cannot exclude the possibility that at least one full size engine was constructed to the specifications attached to the application (fig 1). The inventions for which the Letters Patent were granted relate to ‘… improvements in hot air engines … it consists in certain peculiarities of the construction, novel arrangement, and operation of the various

1

Finished model of the AndersonEricksson hot air engine, 11¼ inches (286mm) high.

Fig 1 Twin lever

Walking beam

Flywheel

Bracket Displacer con-rod Bellcrank lever

Water jacket Power con-rod Power cylinder

Studs Crankshaft bracket Crank Engine base

Power piston Displacer rod

Displacer

Support columns

Displacer cylinder

Engine platform Furnace

Burner

Profile Of The Anderson-Ericksson Caloric Engine

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parts thereof…’, a rather wide range of improvements on other caloric engines of that period! It is interesting to note that no model was presented with the application. One cannot help comparing this engine with the Ericsson ‘hot air pumping engines’ of the 1880’s, which had a relatively much less complicated bell-crank mechanism and were remarkably efficient. These pumping engines were produced in four different versions and thousands were sold in most parts of the U.S.A. (figs 2 and 3). Among the improvements the Inventors included a ‘valve to admit air to the air cylinder’. In an era when machines and machining did not provide for the close tolerances that we expect from a modern hot air/ Stirling engine, it was quite

common for developers to install ‘snifter’ valves which allowed for the intake of the working gas (air) to replace that which was lost through pistons and glands. Models of this engine, in a larger scale and of very high standard, have appeared in various exhibitions in the U.S. and, according to my friends there, these working models always attract sizeable crowds wherever the show is, all fascinated by the intricate movement of the mechanism.

The concept

The inventors devised a drive mechanism which is complicated and somewhat cumbersome, prone to friction and definitely a drain on the power output produced by

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the engine. For the modeller the satisfaction is to see the mechanism in motion, quite an attraction when the engine is running at slow speed - it never goes fast anywayespecially when it is heated by gas and in open air shows. The performance of the ‘walking beam’ is quite fascinating. The specifications in the Patent application did not include a pump for cooling the water jacket, nor was any indication given for the possible use of this engine whether as a prime mover or as a pumping engine. Other engines of that period were designed for a specific reason, either as prime movers in a factory environment, such as the Van Rennes engines featured in Model Engineer in 2012, or the Lehmann engine (Germany 1868) which was one of the more powerful prime movers of that period. A study of the engine design and subsequently of the working model showed that the best way – probably the only way – for the developers to obtain any benefit from the engine was to use it as a pumping engine with the pump working directly from the crank. Even so, the vertical proximity of the burner would have presented some difficulties. At a stretch the engine could also

have been used as a prime mover but that is very unlikely because the power output from a full size engine would have been very low. The layout of the engine as can be seen in photo 1 and in the profile, fig 1, which shows the three sections of the engine: the working cylinder (power cylinder) surrounded by the water cooling jacket and the crankshaft in the top section; the furnace or heating part in the bottom section while there is a viable space in the middle. Although the middle section appears to have no particular use except cosmetic it actually serves as an important separator between the top and lower platforms, whether or not this was meant to be so. In effect the mid-section exposes the upper part of the displacer cylinder to ambient temperature with a measure of cooling effect thus helping, in a way, to conserve energy. The internal hot air cools slightly on its way up to the colder platform and to the power unit while on the reverse stoke the displaced air becomes hotter as it approaches the furnace area thus requiring, in theory, less heat input. The bottom part, where the actual heating takes place, is surrounded by a furnace cover.

Fig 3

Fig 2

Extract from the designs attached to Patent No. 579670 dated March 30th 1897 showing a profile of the hot air engine designed by C. A. Anderson and E. A. Ericksson. The twin cylinder plate arrangement was quite a novel idea and, in practice, would have been of some benefit to the efficiency of the heating/ cooling system of a full scale size engine.

Engine description

Extract from the patent granted to Anderson and Ericksson showing an overhead view of the mechanism designed for their concept of a ‘strong, durable and effective’ hot air engine. 380

The Anderson-Ericksson caloric engine is a concentric engine with the power unit and the displacer unit in two separate vertical cylinders bolted together through the top cylinder plate - the engine base. The power piston and the displacer are moved by levers which are anchored on two projecting brackets on opposite sides of the top section of the working cylinder/cooling jacket with a ‘walking beam’ in between. The movement of the mechanism and the power piston/displacer units is explained further on.

In making a model of this engine, based on the designs presented with the Patent application, two aims were kept in mind: the feasibility of constructing a table-top model of a very interesting, albeit complicated, drive mechanism and the possibility of making this model actually run. The Anderson-Ericksson engine model presented here did run but it required a fair amount of heating before it condescended to do so. The size of the model was, to a certain degree, dictated by the material in hand, particularly stainless steel pipe/s for the displacer unit. Very often the designs of the various types of Stirling engines designed and constructed by the author depended on one principal type of metal, stainless steel pipes and/or canisters – hence the constant look-out for canisters.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

HOT AIR ENGINE Suggested modification

At this stage the reader should consider whether it is wise and prudent to upgrade the engine by enlarging the concentric cylinders. This will enhance the power output and can be done within the constraints placed by the various other parts of the engine including the platforms and the mechanism. Actually none of these need to be changed. In fact it is important that the bell-crank mechanism and the levers are retained as presented since there is a correlation between all the parts and a change in any one component will disrupt the efficiency of the whole mechanism. The internal diameter of the working cylinder (power and displacer cylinders) can be increased to 1.57 inch (40mm) and the outside diameter to 1.69 inch (43mm) while retaining the size of the water jacket. One should note however that whereas the original model has an annular space of approximately 0.47 inch (12mm) a larger power cylinder reduces the annular width to about 0.275 inch (7mm). While the above change will give more power to the engine, the reduced annular space will lessen the cooling effect. For medium to long runs it’s worth investing in a small 6V

water pump or a submersible pump with a receptacle close by which will give a good 60 minute run, depending on the water vessel. Any modifications, including the brackets that secure the enlarged water jacket to the engine base, should not disturb the net distance of 3.267 inches (83mm) between centres of the two top lateral brackets. The left hand bracket needs to be machined in a slightly different manner from the right hand one in order to secure it to the water jacket top surface.

Construction process

The machining process can be broadly divided into three sections: the power unit, the displacer unit and the drive mechanism. The parts come together, however, in a most harmonious way; all are attached somehow or other to the engine base, whether above or below. The sequence for constructing the engine was as follows: Stage 1: Components above and including the top cylinder plate: i) engine base; ii) power cylinder; iii) power piston, gland, adjusting nut and con-rods;

6.42/163 2.677/68

1.5/38

1.18/30

1.89/48

0.43/11

Specifications Of Engine Base All dimensions are inches/mm

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1.41/36

Crankshaft & crank pin

0.63/16 Base thickness 0.25/6

the only way – for the developers to obtain any benefit from the engine was to use it as a pumping engine with the pump working directly from the crank. Stage 2: Components above and below the lower cylinder plate: i) displacer, displacer rod and clevis; ii) displacer cylinder, iii) sub-assembly – stage 2 iv) furnace; v) engine platform and base frame; vi) gas burner; vii) flywheel; viii) final assembly and running the engine.

(fig 5). While still in the chuck two rings were scored – the inner one with a diameter of 1.26 inch (32mm), the outer one with a diameter of 1.96 inch (50mm). The inner ring was bored through. Six equidistant 0.118 inch (3mm) holes were marked and drilled on the outer (50mm) ring. The template was placed on the engine base with two opposite 3mm holes placed on an east to west axis, i.e. parallel to the long sides of the engine base, and drilled. Two short 3mm bolts were placed through the first two holes and then the remaining four 3mm holes were marked and drilled. These six holes were then tapped M4 to take 4mm studs which secure

Dia. of template 2.36in/60mm

3.937/100

Dia. of original cylinder - 32mm

working model showed that the best way – probably

Dia. of original power cylinder 1.26in/32mm

Crankshaft brackets

0.47/12

Dia. of ring for studs to secure power unit

Dia. of a larger power cylinder Crankshaft

3.937 inches (100mm) wide. A mark was made at a distance of 2.677 inches (68mm) from the left hand side, and 1.5 inches (38mm) from the bottom (near or front) side. A pilot hole was drilled at this point and the base was then bored in stages to 1.26 inch (32mm). A round template, 0.7 inch (2mm) thick was machined from an aluminium bar with a diameter of 2.36 inch (60mm)

A study of the engine design and subsequently of the

STAGE 1 i) The engine base The top engine plate - the engine base (fig 4) was cut from 6mm aluminium plate, 6.42 inches (163mm) long,

Fig 4

Internal dia. of cooling jacket

iv) water jacket; v) cylinder top brackets – left hand, right hand; vi) drive mechanism – bellcrank lever, twin lever assembly, ‘walking beam’, power piston and displacer links and displacer con-rods; vii) water tank; viii) sub-assembly – stage 1; ix) wood turned supporting columns.

I.D. of enlarged power cylinder 1.57in/50mm

2in/50mm O.D. ring for drilling 6 x 4mm holes for studs

Template

For marking position of original power cylinder, position of studs, possible enlarged new power cylinder & extent of template

Fig 5

>> 381

2

the power unit and the water jacket to the base. (Readers may wish to use BA taps and studs – the tapping drill size is also 3mm.) The studs in this engine were cut 4.25 inches (108mm) long, however four were later cut to 4.07 inches (103.5mm). The template was also used later, on the power/water cylinder top cover and on the displacer cylinder flange. The reader who opts to make use of a 1.57 inch (40mm) I.D. power cylinder will enlarge the bore to fit the new size, however all the other markings remain as explained above. The engine base was drilled in the four corners, 0.39 inch (10mm) from each side, to take 2BA (M5) bolts clear. A cardboard template was made for the cylinder bore and the four corner holes. This was put

I.D. 1.26/32

Ø2.36/60

ii) Power cylinder NOTE: In recent years the author has made extensive use of hydraulic pipe for power cylinders. This type of bright mild steel pipe is factory honed and requires only degreasing and a further light honing. It is an excellent material and has given good results. In

I.D. 1.57/40 3.157/80

O.D. 1.42/36

aside for use later on the lower engine platform. A rectangular hole, 1.89 inch (48mm) long, 1.18 inch (30mm) wide was cut on the right hand side of the cylinder bore at a distance of 0.43 inch (11mm) from the bottom and 0.47 inch (12mm) from the right hand side. This hole takes the crank disc and the crankpin. The hole was first chain drilled 0.078 inch (2mm) to within the nearest distance, slot-drilled and the piece removed. The hole was finished by filing down the corners (photo 2).

O.D. 1.69/43

diameter of 1.26 inch (32mm), then externally faced leaving two flanges with the original diameter (40mm) and 2mm thick. The external diameter between the flanges was reduced to 1.42 inch (36mm). Two brass discs, 2mm thick, 2.36 inches (60mm) in diameter were machined and bored I.D.: 1.26 inch (32mm). While still in the lathe the edges of both discs were given a slight chamfer to prepare them for soldering. The template mentioned in fig 5 above was placed on the discs and the six 4mm holes for studs were marked and drilled. The discs were silver soldered to the flanges, however a minor problem

In making a model of this engine, based on the designs presented with the Patent application, two aims were kept in mind: the feasibility of constructing a table-top model of a very interesting, albeit complicated, drive mechanism and the possibility of making this model actually run. (36mm), I.D.: 1.26 inch (32mm) and 2.99 inches (76mm) long and then soldering two brass discs, 2mm thick and with a diameter of 2.36 inches (60mm) to the short flanges of the machined cylinder. The pipe piece was first bored to give an internal

Chamfer for silver soldering

arose as there was a slight distortion at the top and bottom of the cylinder that required fine corrective machining and honing to ensure a good fit to the power piston. If the reader opts to increase the internal diameter of the power cylinder to 1.57 inch

O.D. of discs 2.36in/60mm I.D. of original power cylinder - r=16mm

I.D. of alternative 40mm cylinder

Dia. of scribed ring for drilling 6 x 4mm stud holes r=25mm

Brass Discs

Ø2.36/60

Right: Original power cylinder = I.D. 1.26/32 Left: Proposed power cylinder = I.D. 1.57/40

382

Brass discs - gauge 15, 0.078/2 thick

Engine base with studs for the power unit and cooling jacket.

the smaller diameters, up to 80mm (always metric), the wall thickness is of 5mm, thereafter the thickness increases. A 100mm (3.93 inch) I.D. pipe can have a wall thickness of 12.5mm O.D.: 125mm. The size of hydraulic pipe seen locally by the author is in incremental in 10mm, e.g. I.D. 20mm, 30mm etc., but it’s possible there may be other sizes. The power cylinder for this engine was designed in the shape of a reel 3.15 inches (80mm) long with 2.36 inch (60mm) flanges (fig 6). This required a two-step construction process: machining the actual cylinder from O.D.: 40mm, I.D.: 30mm to O.D.: 1.42 inch

2 off gauge 15, 0.078in/2mm soldered to power cylinder as additional flanges & to seal water jacket

Fig 6

Fig 7 Model Engineer 6 March 2015

HOT AIR ENGINE

(40mm) - also seen in fig 6 - there is a remedy that can avoid distortion completely. The alternative suggested by the author is also for a reel type cylinder but machined from wider hydraulic pipe O.D.: 50mm (1.97 inch), I.D: 40mm (1.57 inch). The external diameter of the cylinder can be reduced to 1.69 inch (43mm); a wall thickness of 1.5mm is sufficient for this size of engine. This leaves a flange 3.5mm wide. Figure 6 shows the specifications of a larger

diameter power cylinder with additional flanges. The same type of brass discs, 2mm thick, with an O.D. of 2.36 inches (60mm) are cut, bored with the internal diameter of the power cylinder (40mm) and drilled with the six 4mm holes on the 50mm diameter scribed ring as in fig 7. The discs can be silver soldered to the projecting 3.5mm flange to complete the reel profile with little danger of distortion. Alternatively the discs can be fastened

or bolted to the existing flange using six to eight 2mm or 2.5mm countersunk bolts – it is important that the newly extended flange is not distorted and any bolts countersunk completely, since at a later stage in construction an additional sealing top will cover the flange. The length of the power cylinder plus the new flange should remain at 3.15 inches (80mm). At a later stage the reel type power cylinder in this engine was inserted into the water

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jacket and soldered using the chamfered edge to give a good seal (described later). A gasket was prepared – the type of gasket used had to be able to withstand heat carried up by the displacer cylinder. The gasket diameter was 2.67 inches (68mm) to cover the area of the cooling jacket plus 1mm over the diameter of the jacket. The template was again used for the punched 4mm holes in the gasket. ●To be continued.

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>> 383

Gleanings Often discarded household items can be of value in the home workshop as Ted Jolliffe explains.

R

ecently I wandered into the workshop before breakfast, just to check that I had some aluminium rod, needed for a planned job. Not wishing to get my hands dirty before the meal, I sat and looked at the shop as a whole, something we should all perhaps do more often. I was astounded at the various items in regular use that had been purchased at local shops, or were recycled from items that had been consumed leaving only the packaging. Maybe if I make mention of a few of these it may spark off interest in what we as model engineers can do to save cash and re-use available materials.

Toothbrushes

In our house we rarely consign worn toothbrushes to the bin. After cleaning and drying they are brought into the shop. I find them ideal for removing traces of cutting compound and swarf from taps of all sizes. They are useful for reaching into ‘hard to get at’ places when I want to get rid of particles on a workpiece. I even made a special purchase in a local store of two juvenile size brushes which, when bolted back to back, are ideal for removing all traces of dirt and muck from the threads

2

The wood came from an old TV stand; this convenient kitchen roll holder over my bench is screwed to the 6 foot 6 inch high ceiling joist. 384

1

The single old toothbrush on the left is used for cleaning swarf and other residues from the flutes of taps. The bent wire is a ‘catcher’ used when parting off cylindrical items in the lathe which saves hot fingers and fishing in the swarf tray. On the right, two brushes bolted back to back are used to clear the threads on chuck registers, faceplates, etc. This pair is due a swish in white spirit to clear out any abrasive particles embedded in the bristles. of my lathe chucks and faceplates. They hang on a nail above the lathe, just a loop of wire through the holes in the handle, ready for use whenever I change any of the nose held equipment on either lathe. Yes, they get bound up with dirt and grease from time to time but a dip in a recycled tin containing a drop of white spirit cleans them a few times and finally they reach the bin, having performed two useful tasks in their lives (photo 1).

Hand wipes

Not so long ago cotton waste was in plentiful supply and cheap to buy. Nowadays many fabrics are made from synthetic materials that are not good for wiping hands or soaking up small spillages. ‘Own brand’ kitchen roll from the supermarket makes a very effective substitute, being reasonably strong, absorbent, user friendly and inexpensive. Some years ago, I made a simple wooden roll holder with a bit of dowel acting as an axle. It is quick to change a roll and of course, I used re-cycled timber (photo 2). There are occasions when one needs a proper cloth, for example when polishing up a job using such as Brasso. Paper products fail very quickly

under that sort of treatment so such cast off cotton materials as are available are kept for use on such occasions. I will plead guilty to furtively sneaking the soiled ones through the washing machine when no-one is looking. If nothing else is available, cheap dishcloths can be used.

Bundles

Often one acquires a series of small items perhaps with a hole in each. When storing such, it is often convenient to bundle them together. For such and for general use around the shop I keep a roll of ‘twist ties’ handy. The inbuilt cutter ensures that I use only enough for my needs each time. A roll has lasted me for several seasons so it is not an expensive proposition. They are often sold in garden centres or in the ‘cheap’ shops, which seem to have sprung up in most high streets nowadays (photo 3).

Brushes

I confess to being a little ‘picky’ when purchasing brushes for eventual use in the workshop. I look for the real bristle or vegetable matter strands for the bristles, rather than the synthetic fibres one so often gets on the inexpensive sets sold in DIY stores. I try

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

WORKSHOP TOPICS

to avoid using paint brushes on machinery. For cleaning down, I prefer a hand brush of the ‘dustpan and brush’ variety, again with proper bristles or vegetable fibres rather than plastic. I follow these up with pastry brushes bought from market stalls or cook shops. I also cherish a collection of bottle brushes, sold as teapot spout brushes. As they become worn down, they serve well to clean out swarf and grease residues from dies. The new ones are used on larger dies and as they get less bristly, they are reserved for smaller dies. They can also be useful, occasionally, to dislodge stray swarf from a bore (photo 4). As a special I cut the ring off the handle of one such and inserted the stem into a piece of copper tube long enough to go through the spindle of my lathes, very good for getting swarf out of the bore after a drilling or boring operation. Most of it is ejected at the rear, falling into a conveniently placed tin. I once bought a cylinder vacuum cleaner with the idea that it would be a useful asset in the workshop. I freely admit that the idea was a failure; swarf - which, no matter how careful one is - gets on the floor and is caught up in the corrugated flexible hose and blocks it. One then loses ‘suck’ and has to go through the pain of unblocking the hose, which disobligingly blocks again a few seconds later. A good stiff broom and a coal shovel are the answer in my workshop. I try to sweep up weekly. At a car boot sale I bought a ‘fireside set’, chiefly as I had a use for the cast iron base of the stand. However, the little shovel from the set has proved a godsend, along with the domed round brush. It is used to clear swarf from my milling machines and lathes and the brush is handy for sweeping it out from under the bed. If one can find a good, old-fashioned ironmonger it is still possible to buy refills for this type of brush. They seem to last me about five years so when I located

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3

4

Compact, always to hand and easy to tie a bundle, or untie it when needed. a source I bought a couple on a ‘just in case’ basis. With open fires a thing of the past, companion or fireside sets are also dying out. Before leaving the subject of brushes, there is one type that deserves a mention; it has a round wooden handle and a metal sleeve holding the bristles captive. I sharpened the outboard end to a blunt chisel point and it is reserved for cleaning the scroll on my three jaw chucks, the chisel point is held in the groove of the scroll as it is rotated, with the jaw slot facing downwards. Any small particles are dislodged and fall free. That and an old clothes brush for cleaning the jaws has kept my chucks silky smooth for many years. The brush portion is used to brush out any debris and is reserved for this use alone. These brushes used to be sold for use with duplicators but good stationers will still supply them. There is one important brush that lives under a bench; a normal, stiff hand brush. This is reserved for use when I go into the house. I once committed the unpardonable sin of leaving a trail of brass chippings from my trousers all over a new carpet. It took longer to hoover them up than do the pine needles at Christmas. Now, in the interest of preserving some harmony, I brush down even if just going for coffee. As there is no place elsewhere to include these last two, here goes: pipe cleaners and cotton buds are excellent

when removing swarf from a tapped hole. Dampened with a drop of lighter fluid (photo 5) they reach into crevices and come out covered in a surprising amount of muck. Likewise, a packet of cigarette papers is a useful thing to keep by one. Moistened and stuck to a surface they whirl away at the lightest contact with a revolving milling cutter and can, if working to extremes, act as packing in a joint to permit an absolute minimal clearance.

Odds and ends

The cosmetic section of a supermarket will yield a few results useful to workshop enthusiasts. For example, the emery sticks used by the ladies for torturing their nails

A selection of brushes and other handy items hung from nails on the front of the shelf over my elderly Zyto lathe. I confess to occasional use of emery cloth or wet and dry paper on work in the lathe, so keep a selection folded over the splash back. are excellent at removing spots of rust or paint; they come in handy plastic pouches and it is worthwhile keeping a set in the workshop. Likewise, when your lady finishes with a lipstick there is always a small amount left in the tube, which is a well worth acquiring. When fitting bearings or scraping it is a very effective tell tale marker and can easily be removed with a dab of lighter fuel on a bit of kitchen roll. Another advantage over more conventional ‘blue’ is that it does not leak from the tin (photo 6).

5

6 All sorts of uses, from de-greasing to surreptitious cleaning of clothes when one indulges in a forbidden half hour in the workshop and needs to lose a stain. Treat with due caution but keep to hand. Another stand-by, an old lipstick that was to have been discarded is useful when scraping or bearing fitting. A drop of lighter fuel will remove it instantly. >> 385

Toothpastes contain a certain amount of abrasive material. It seems the greater the bargain packs the more abrasive. It is very fine and I have used it as a polish and as a lapping material. Again useful and fairly easy to remove, water will generally suffice, although I have sometimes used a dab of meths. The wax from which candles are made is a useful lubricant for slow moving work, I rub a little onto hacksaw blades and it makes the work easier. A dab on a drill will sometimes help, especially when one does not wish to get cutting oil everywhere. A normal candle or nightlight seems to last forever in this context (photo 7). Sometimes supermarkets or chemists have a small home brew section. If not, try a local health food shop. Your needs are simple - a pack of citric acid powder. Be warned - you may get grilled as to your intended use. Understandably, drug dealers often use the white powder to ‘cut’ their illegal substances; after all, citric acid is an ingredient in most fizzy drinks and is nonpoisonous (photo 8). Dissolve a pack in a bucket of warm water and keep it covered. It is a great acid pickle, removing silver solder and brazing flux residues easily. It has the added advantage that it does not attack steel objects, so a silversoldered part can be safely left in overnight. Why a cover – if you live anywhere near open fields you may well suffer an autumnal influx of mice, some of who may penetrate the workshop. They seem to have an attraction for the acid bucket but fail their swimming lesson and drown. I hate the task of removing the corpse but, in passing, kept the tongs from the fireside set; they are excellent for fishing objects out of the bath. My bucket has a wire handle and on either side I keep a length of plastic covered wire. Small jobs are tied to this before submersion, making recovery simple. The wire does not

386

7

8

Stand-bys for many years, as lubricants for turning, drilling and tapping, the candle has been in the shop for at least ten years despite frequent use. The nightlight is a new one, the little bit remaining of the original one is no longer recognisable but still in use.

9

Citric acid, from the homebrew department at the local chemist. It is often available from health food shops. One carton dissolved in a bucket of water makes an excellent ‘pickle bath’.

10

The rectangular sardine tin is useful for all sorts of small storage jobs.

When marking the contents of these useful plastic drawers, coat the inside with correcting fluid then write on the outside with a fine tip pen. It makes the contents legible. Should the label need changing a drop of lighter fuel on a kitchen roll will speedily remove the coloured ink. Shown with a selection of pens used for various jobs around the shop.

seem to rot away. If you work predominantly in copper alloys or are making a boiler, any steel you dunk will take on a copper tint that can easily be removed when wet but, left to dry, if forms a copper citrate coating and helps in rustproofing, I understand. Another reason for covering the bucket is to keep out airborne free yeasts. They will start fermentation in the bath leading to ugly patches of floating slime. Easy to remove (and it does not seem to affect the contents) but a light cover avoids any problems. A drip of household bleach seems to help and the problem is greater in summer time. The great advantage is that one can dispose of the contents of the bucket easily. Well diluted it can be safely tipped down the toilet in small quantities. This advice came from our local water board. It is also potentially less harmful

than our usual sulphuric acid bath, especially where kiddies or animals could be at risk. An acquaintance made up an ultra strong solution and found it worked well on a pair of ancient, painted cast iron wheels, acting as a de-greaser and paint remover. I have not tried this myself so only mention it as an idea. The tip of adding a couple of drops of washing up liquid to silver-solder flux when making the paste is so well known as to be hardly worth repeating here but not so well known is the method of keeping silver-solder in bounds when applying. Use Tippex or similar correcting fluid as a resist. When dry it is largely powdered mineral material and silversolder or braze seems not to adhere to it. I store my made up fluxes in the canisters that used to be supplied with 35 mm film cassettes. They are airtight and

the flux stays usable for weeks at a time. An old rectangular sardine tin filled with water acts as cleaner for my application brushes and if a drop of moisture is needed to restore the flux, a wet brushful seems to do the trick (photo 9). Another use for Tippex is to coat the inside of plastic storage drawers, just at the front. A white coat results and one can then mark the contents on the outside with a fine tip marker pen and see the result. Doing this the more normal way is fine but leads to problems if one wishes to change the content of the drawer - one gets a grey scummy mass which needs extensive re-coating. Even when full of nuts the white coating stays in place remarkably well (photo 10). Toothpicks and BBQ skewers - the bamboo variety - find a home, useful for dabbing, stirring paint,

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

WORKSHOP TOPICS

dropping light oil, grease or glue in place and, when used with cotton buds, good at removing splinters of swarf (photo 11). Felt markers are, of course, a permanent stand-by in the workshop being useful for marking out. Some process may even be colour coded (photo 12).

Corkage

A few years back I realised just how much swarf gets into the open tailstock barrel. Visiting a friend, I noticed that he had inserted a cork into the open end of his tailstock barrel. Returning home, this was a good excuse for opening a bottle and claiming the cork as my perquisite. A little bit of whittling with a Stanley knife, followed by some careful work with a sanding block produced a firm fit in the 2MT opening of the barrel. A small drill through the length and a bit of wire inserted and tied at the back end to a small washer gave me a loop to hang the cork when out of use; a panel pin in the edge of a shelf above the lathe gave it a home. Over the years it has become well impregnated with oil and has adopted a true 2MT shape for a nice push fit into the barrel.

Storage

I like to class storage in two parts: ready to use, meaning often-used tools and materials and stand-by, meaning materials for jobs which are in stock but not immediately needed. At a boot sale I came across an old stationery drawer set, this provides me with storage for small pieces of material, the sort we use in everyday jobs. Here a simple labelling system gives me speedy access to materials, steel or brass (with which I lump suspect yellow metal of all sorts). The top of the cabinet houses my vertical belt sander and provides convenient parking for a small stand containing pencils. One of my magnetic pick-up tools parks here together with a small LED torch/laser with a magnetic base. The top two drawers are reserved for small tools; being close to the bench,

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they are convenient to reach. The cabinet was far from pristine and one day I will make time to paint it. Screwdrivers are stored by type in a selection of tins at the side of the bench. These formerly held baked beans. I find it convenient to have them close by but keep a small pinch bar and wedge in a file handle in the tool drawer of the cabinet so that I am not tempted to abuse the screwdrivers.

larger of these are stored upright in an old five gallon oil drum with the top removed. Latterly I use one of those bulk units that some brewers sell as party lager containers. When empty and with the top carefully removed, they make good storage bins. Another source of large tins can be catering outlets. Staples such as baked beans come in large tins, which are nonreturnable and often have the

The wax from which candles are made is a useful lubricant for slow moving work, I rub a little onto hacksaw blades and it makes the work easier. Materials for a particular job are stored in more tins, often held to uprights on machine stands by those useful cable ties. It prevents spillages by being tipped over and ensures that when I move on to the next stage in a project the materials are ready to hand. For ferrous materials I find that it is wise to spray them lightly with a mist of fine oil as a rust preventative; a damp atmosphere can affect materials quite quickly; even a sudden temperature change in summer bringing the dew point in quickly at a time when heating is off, causing surface rust. Over the years I have collected (squirrelled) a considerable amount of recycled materials and the

top already removed. Ask and you may receive - it is often cheaper to give them away than to pay to have them removed. For keeping smaller bits of a current project together I use pie dishes; several companies sell these as ready to bake meals. They come in dish shaped tins and are ideal for storing small bits, or even as trays when sorting out odd screws, bolts, etc. A tip from bitter experience: I recently assisted in clearing the workshop of an old friend who, because of increasing age and infirmity, was giving up the hobby. Among what we found were several containers of screws of all sorts, which tipped over in the boot on the

11

Useful for spotting with superglue, picking out little bits of swarf, even dabbing on a spot of paint or polish. Toothpicks and barbeque skewers are a useful stand-by.

way home. It required several sessions of an hour or so a day to sort them back into order. A pie dish full seemed to take about an hour. Incidentally, for anyone who is modelling in smaller scales, several makers of tin cans nowadays offer them with a useful corrugation pressed or rolled into the sides. I am sure this is for some good commercial reason but it remains that with the end and seams removed one can get a couple of sheets of realistic looking corrugated iron from a tin, useful if scratch building for a smaller gauge layout.

Gleanings?

So there we have it - a selection of low cost or freebie items which can be useful in the workshop. There are many others; I just hope that this selection has sparked off some other ideas. Perhaps ‘Gleanings’ is a bit fanciful as, originally, the word meant the dropped ears of corn or other crops left behind with the stubble in the harvest field. These were traditionally garnered by the women and children for later conversion to food to help feed the family over winter. Once they had finished, livestock were let onto the ground to gather what they could, whilst fertilising the area, as part of an older agricultural system. Modern thinking seems to be that the stubble is ploughed in along with any spillages. ME

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This selection of marker pens is useful when marking out small jobs, easy to remove with lighter fuel and sometimes assorted colours make the sequence of operations easier to follow in order. 387

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Class A3

1907-2014

Internal Combustion www.modelengineershow.co.uk

Eric Offen judged the I/C Engines categories and brings us his report.

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would firstly like to thank Chief Judge, Ivan Law for inviting me to be a Judge this year, and Mike Crisp for his help with the task in hand. I felt very privileged to part of the team. And so to the entries in Class A3: Internal Combustion Engines and let’s look first at the 1⁄3 Scale Armstrong Lynx 7 Cylinder Radial Aero Engine by Stephen Wessel. This was a breathtaking model, finely made with lots of very fine detail, the attention to which was outstanding (photos 1 and 2).

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Stephen Wessle’s Lynx Aero Engine. Gold Medal and the Bradbury Winter Memorial Challenge Cup.

A ‘rear’ view of this 1⁄3 scale engine. 388

A lot of thought had been given to how to hold, machine and make all the parts. The castings were about as good as it is possible to get them, the surface finish is so close to the full size engine that anyone looking at a close up photograph would be hard pressed to tell one from another. The project had not been without its share of problems at the start, not least of which was Stephen’s having

to learn the techniques of RPM (rubber/plastic moulding) which was employed to make the larger castings but, due to the skill of the builder, they were overcome to produce this fine engine. A comprehensive article on this engine was featured in Model Engineer, Vol. 210, Issue 4458 (14 June 2013). At that time Stephen wrote: I chose the ArmstrongSiddeley Lynx IV mainly because the design appeared

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

MEX 2014

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10.6cc Whittle V8 Aero Engine by Edvind Wold from Norway. Gold Medal and the Edgar Westbury Memorial Trophy. at, what seems to me, a seminal period in British aero engine development. It was a direct result of the work of Sam Heron assisted by Major Fred Green and the Italian engine designer Spirito Mario Viale, all pioneers in the design of aircooled radial engines shortly after the end of WW1. Their research at the Royal Aircraft Factory (later the RAE) had led to the deeply finned, penthouse style aluminium head with inclined valves screwed and shrunk on to a steel cylinder. Heron also invented the sodium cooled exhaust valve. Both these features became pretty standard in subsequent radials’. This entry earned Stephen Wessel of Somerset a Gold Medal and the Bradbury Winter Memorial Challenge Cup. Edvind Wold, an enthusiastic subscriber to Model Engineer travelled from his home in Tønsberg in Norway to exhibit a stunning little 10.6cc Whittle V8 Aero Engine (photos 3 and 4). An exceptionally well made model with a lot of attention to detail, the workmanship was to a very high standard with no trace of tool marks and just the correct degree of surface finish. The builder made his own piston rings and O-rings for sealing the cylinders. Made entirely from stock materials, some of the components in this engine are extremely small requiring a lot of patience and thought in order to hold and

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machine them. The model was awarded a Gold Medal and the Edgar Westbury Memorial Trophy. A 1⁄5 scale Hodgson Nine Cylinder Radial Aero Engine (photo 5) was exhibited by Mick Knights of East Sussex, known to many readers of this magazine for his well written articles aimed largely at less experienced builders and those new to the hobby. His engine was a well made model to an established design. The workmanship was to a very good standard, the exhaust pipework in particular was very well formed with no sign of kinking or collapse. Indeed Mick recently wrote an article specifically about these components (issue 4499, 9th January 2015). The overall finish was very good, with a good consistency to the blacking on the cylinders and fittings. The fuel and oil tanks could have been closer to the engine to avoid the long pipe runs and the fuel and oil pipes might have been better made with flexible couplings as ridged pipes would be prone to fracture. Also, the ignition system could have been mounted in the base of the tank’s support to tidy things up a bit. All components were machined from bar stock and no castings were used in the construction and this very good example of model engineering earned Mick a Silver Medal.

An ‘unfinished’ view without propeller.

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Mick Knights’ Hodgson Nine Cylinder Radial Aero Engine. Silver Medal. A Very Highly Commended certificate was awarded to Mike Havard for a Matador 60 Four Stroke Aero Engine (photo 6). This was a very well made example of a popular design. The workmanship was very good as was the overall attention to detail but there are few sharp edges and tool marks that could have been smoothed off to improve appearance. Nevertheless, a lovely little model.

A ¼ inch scale 5HP New Holland Hit and Miss Engine (photo 7) was entered by Alan Thatcher of Reading, Berks. This interesting model of a well known stationary engine had been made up of welded steel plate to look like castings. Workmanship is to a fair standard but attention to detail let this entry down a bit; there were a few tool marks on the crosshead and crank webs and pin holes in the welding

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A Matador 60 Four Stroke Aero Engine by Mike Havard.

Alan Thatcher’s ¼ inch scale 5HP New Holland Hit and Miss Engine. Highly Commended.

8 The Bradbury-Winter Memorial Challenge Cup was donated by Mrs. J. Bradbury-Winter and a number of friends to be awarded annually for the most outstanding example of amateur mechanical craftsmanship. The Edgar Westbury Memorial Trophy was presented by the SMEE to be awarded for originality and soundness of design in any prototype of a prime mover, working plant in a marine craft or fidelity to prototype of a working model I/C engine. that could have been finished better. The model was awarded a Commended Certificate. Alan also had a second entry; a ¼ inch scale 8HP Bessemer Half Breed two Stroke Engine (photo 8). These engines were originally steam driven and used to drive the ‘nodding donkey’ pumps in the oilfields of the USA but were later changed into a two stroke I/C engine to run on the gas available to them from the oil wells. The model was made entirely from scrap materials apart from the flywheels and was awarded a Very Highly Commended Certificate. Moving on finally to one entry assigned to myself in Competition Class A7, General Engineering; Ken Stoat from South Wales exhibited a half scale .303 Rifle No. 1 S.M.L.E. Mk 111* of 1916. An outstanding model of a famous

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rifle, the workmanship was to a very high standard. The fit of the woodwork was tight and the choice of wood correct and as the real thing. The case and the engraving all add up to a remarkable model (photo 9) that was awarded a Gold Medal. ME

8HP Bessemer Half Breed two Stroke Engine by Alan Thatcher. Very Highly Commended.

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Ken Stoat’s half scale First World War .303 Rifle No. 1 S.M.L.E. Mk 111* of 1916.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

Fit for a Princess Royal PART 2

Clive Fenn designs a boiler for a 5 inch gauge LMS Pacific Continued from p.239 M.E. 4501, 6 February 2015

Clive Fenn has kindly offered to make his boiler drawings available to readers of Model Engineer. Please contact the Editor in the first instance.

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Backhead after cleaning.

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he side stays came next, doing one side at a time. Unfortunately I did not score full marks here. I missed one stay on the first side but corrected this when, having done the other side, I realised I had missed two there as well! I did not worry too much for I would attend to these when I did the outside of the stays later. It was now time to put the firebox backplate in position and for this I would use high melting point silver solder 424. The boiler was placed vertical with the barrel downwards through the hole in the brazing hearth. The firebox was then filled with insulation material but leaving me enough room to work round the inside of the flange. From a stick of silversolder, ½ inch lengths were clipped off and laid round the joint then fluxed using HT5. If you use this trick always put the solder strips on the joint first, then the flux paste. If you do it the other way round the flux will bubble when heated and move the solder strips out of the joint. Now I worked on the inside of the firebox, concentrating the flame round the backplate flange. Once the solder flashed I then added more from on top until I had built up a nice fillet all

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Firebox backhead after brazing. round the joint. The backhead plate came next and a similar procedure was adopted but the flame was concentrated on the outside of the wrapper until the short sticks of solder flashed then more solder added until again a nice fillet was obtained (photos 24 and 25). At this point the only bushes I had put in the backhead were the manifold and blower valve bushes. The reason for this was that the blower valve on Stanier engines was placed above the firehole door and in the centre. The steam supply pipe to this valve is routed inside the boiler from just in front of the main steam pipe to the regulator at the front of the firebox. It then passes above the firebox crown to the rear of the backhead where it connects with the valve. The steam, having passed through the valve, is then piped back inside the boiler and makes its way to a union on the smokebox tubeplate and then to the blastpipe. I have simplified the arrangement and have taken a steam supply from the inside of the manifold bush, via a 1⁄8 inch copper pipe, and then into the blind blower valve bush. Steam then passes through the valve and back through the boiler via the hollow longitudinal stay. So I had to connect these bushes before putting the backhead in

place. All the other bushes will be in place when it is time to silver solder the outside of the stays and firehole ring. At this stage holidays intervened and although I could have spent a happy two weeks in the workshop with the occasional sortie out to a steam centre, I did not think Vicki could. So to keep Her Ladyship a happy bunny and to recharge her brazing batteries, off to France for a fortnight we went. Back home and fully recharged, having had a wonderful two weeks of wall to wall sunshine with temperatures up in the thirties - and suitably topped up with ‘vin rouge’ - it is now back into boiler making mode. The first task was to solder in the firebox backplate stays on the inside of the firebox and the front bottom row of stays on the outside of the throatplate. This was a straightforward job with the boiler being stood upright on the backhead and supported on fire bricks giving enough clearance for the stays to poke through the outer plate. The cleaning and inspection procedure followed. The outer stays on the outside of the backhead came next together with the regulator, water gauges and longitudinal stay bushes and finally finishing off with the firehole ring.

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Side stays fluxed and ready for brazing.

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After cleaning.

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The set-up for brazing in the smokebox tubeplate and tubes. 392

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After brazing.

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Dome and crown stays after brazing and cleaning. The foundation ring was next. This job requires a lot of heat so, with the boiler laying on its back, the firebox was filled - to within about 1 inch clear of the ring - with insulation material and also all around the outside. On inspection it looked to be a satisfactory job but, later after finishing off the side stays on the outside, I noticed a small area in one of the back corners that looked a bit suspect so I corrected this before proceeding on to the crown stays. To step back to the side stays briefly; if you recall, I missed two of these stays on the inside so these had to be tackled first - then on to the outside, all in the same heat. On inspection I was not altogether happy with three of the traverse stays so these had

to be done again (photos 26, 27 and 28). Next it was the turn of the left hand side and this proved to be a good finish. The 72 crown stays came next along with the four safety valve bushes and dome bush. I worked my way from backhead forward to the dome bush. Again, the concentration required when brazing in stays is quite intense. When I arrived at the safety valve bushes I missed two stays but fortunately Vicki played her part well and pointed them out before I started on the next row. Crown stays now done I moved to the dome bush which was a straightforward job. After allowing the boiler to cool, it was then placed in the pickle, cleaned and given a good inspection (photo 29).

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

LOCOMOTIVE CONSTRUCTION

I was very pleased with the job so far. Just the smokebox tubeplate and tubes still to do and I decided to do this in two stages. Firstly the flanged plate to the barrel, with high melting point silver solder, then the tubes with Easyflo silversolder (photo 30). You may be wondering why I did not do it all in one operation using Easyflo. Well the answer to that was because I imagined the gap between the flange plate and the inside of the barrel to be too great for Easyflo. The first operation went well. Using ½ inch strips of solder laid on the joint, the outside of the barrel was warmed up until the solder flashed, then more was added until I was happy. The second, however, proved to be tiresome; I had difficulty with the bottom row of tubes. It was in this area,

on the initial test, that the only leaks were found. There are only four tubes on the bottom row and it was the middle two that were leaking. They were only teardrops, but leaks all the same. I tried to seal them mechanically using a taper drift but to no avail, indeed one tube got worse. So there was nothing for it but to do a reheat. On the subsequent test she held twice her working pressure of 90 psi for 20 minutes, with a small drop of 10 psi due to a weep past the clack on the handpump (photo 31). The boiler had taken about eight months to complete, at a cost of around £950 in materials. But how satisfying to see the gauge holding steady at 180 psi. One day I might be able to get a ‘Hole in One’ and have no leaks on the first test.

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The completed boiler on test. Special thanks must go to my dear wife, Vicki for her help and understanding, for without it I could not have built this boiler on my own. Now

● NEW SERIES

Idris: a 16mm Garden Railway Locomotive ● A Fabricated Hand Vice ● Garrett 4CD in 6 inch scale

it’s back onto the motion and, hopefully, I’ll have the Lizzie chassis ticking over on air in twelve months. ME

Henschel Narrow Gauge Locomotives

● Six Tool Turret

Content may be subject to change.

www.model-engineer.co.uk

ON SALE 20 MARCH 2015

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Geoff Theasby reports on the latest news from the Clubs.

he growing use of automation has been the cause of much unemployment, it is said, and this has been claimed for the past 50 years or more. A new book, The Glass Cage by Nicholas Carr also says that it is turning us into a race of blank-eyed zombies who follow our satnavs down unsuitable roads and results in pilots who have difficulty flying a plane manually. I’m not so sure. Airline pilots do simulator training every six months, which they have to pass and in which they get everything thrown at them. (Not literally!*) It is true that modern military aircraft are designed to be unstable and need computers to stay in the air. It is also true that jobs come and go, so we no longer need fletchers or thatchers, in the main and more recently, TV repair technicians or typewriter mechanics. It seems, though that we are dissatisfied with absolute leisure and seek ‘something to do’. Hence hobbies, D-I-Y and the growth of the ‘Maker’ culture and a renewed interest in mending things. This does need computers but as a tool, just like this word processor program I am writing these very words on. Yes, we can call up many obscure facts

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Antonio Sebastiao’s workshop. (Photo courtesy of Antonio Sebastiao.) 394

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Mike and Ivan Law’s Vulcan steam pump. in milliseconds on a search engine but to really understand a subject, you have to study it in depth for years. The same author has written another book called The Shallows, which deals with this very superficial tendency to rely on the Internet. And, what was the last thing that was going to turn us into blank-eyed zombies? Television! The death of newspapers and the art of conversation! What have we got now? Social media ... * Airliner windscreens are supposed to resist the impact of a chicken-sized bird. In an early test, the carcass made a hole in the windscreen, would have killed the pilot had he been present and embedded itself in the bulkhead. An investigator

soon found the cause of the problem: ‘You’re supposed to defrost the thing first!’ In this issue: Birthdays, a pump, an auction, brakes, cleaning, welding, valve timing, wine, a Mallet, a quadcopter and a windmill. Mark Erwood takes me to task for claiming in M.E. 4498 that no battleships were involved in a direct action between themselves and refers to Prince of Wales and Bismark in the Denmark Strait. This is correct and I did know this but it wasn’t a ship-on-ship action, there were others involved and it wasn’t finally resolved at the time. PoW was brand new and not fully trained up and broke off the fight. Con Rod, reports that Harrow & Wembley Society of Model Engineers held two birthday parties and both Ryan’s mum and James Gibbs (6) wrote to say Thank You. James’ handwriting puts mine to shame! Janice Uphill attended the visit by the Cravens Heritage unit to the Epping & Ongar Railway, not now electrified, where they were hauled by two Schöma diesels. A ride behind Met 1 followed. The Ongar signalbox was ‘cabbed’. Janice trained as a fireman and driver on Met 1 in earlier days on the Quainton Railway Society and met several old friends. W. www.hwsme.org At the New Year’s Day steam up at Sheffield & DSMEE, I met Mike Law driving his Vulcan.

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

CLUB NEWS

Intrigued by the boiler pump and its rocker arms (photo 1) I asked about it and Mike said; ‘Ivan designed the pump - it was fitted very early on after the engine was built in 1969, replacing an injector. The water in the saddle tank gets hot very quickly making an injector unreliable and not wanting to carry auxiliary water in a tank on the driving car the pump was designed and fitted. The exhaust goes up the chimney and creates quite a draft to pull the fire while feed water is being pumped into the boiler. It is quite a complicated unit. The rockers you mention connect the steam piston/pump ram to a slide valve that then controls steam to the opposite piston, hence the pump is always self-starting. Interestingly, if you look at the picture you have taken of the pump, you will see a spacer between the steam cylinder and the water pump. This looks like a cotton bobbin and was added at a later date as the steam side of the pump always suffered from running very wet and it primed a lot. It took a time to sort out and Ivan eventually found out that the hot steam piston was being quenched by the colder feed water in the water pump cylinder, hence the steam was condensing in the cylinder and causing the problem. By adding the bobbin and lengthening the piston rod the hot end of the pump was not cooled by the cold end and the pump has run faultlessly ever since’. Antonio Sebastiao e-mailed me on New Years Eve with details of his new locomotive, not yet finalised in the design but he is thinking of a Germanstyle 4-6-0, many of which used to run in Portugal. I happened to be welcoming in the New Year with a bottle of Vinho Verde which, he says, sneaks up on you from behind. If so, I didn’t notice. It was very pleasant. Photograph 2 is Antonio’s workshop showing off his other hobby of model aircraft. Another Conrod now, from Bristol Society of Model & Experimental Engineers, Winter edition,

www.model-engineer.co.uk

which celebrates winning First Prize in the EIM newsletter competition. Well Done! The society have bought a 3-D printer for the use of members. Editor Trevor Chambers reviews the latest sale at Dreweatts, including some rather more affordable model stationary engines by a Mr. Russell of Fraserburgh. Other models included an Ernst Plank tinplate toy fire engine expected to fetch £150-200. It went for £7,000! He also writes on the Amateur Ordnance Volunteers of WWI, who made small items in their home workshops for the war effort. Such was their productivity that the armaments companies began to complain. W. www.bristolmodel engineers.co.uk The Link, from Model Engineers Society (NI) reveals that one member severely injured his foot, which now has more metal in it than the club workshop. Jeff Spencer’s BR Standard 2-6-4T boiler passed its test. A wellmade item, I look forward to seeing it when finished. W. www.mesni.co.uk Reading Society of Model Engineers’ Prospectus begins with something different, a photo of the instrument panel of a US F-5 jet fighter. Introduced in 1959 (when we were still building 9Fs) it is still in use as a trainer with some air forces. It was seen by Editor, John Billard at the Elder Museum of Science & Technology on Gran Canaria. ‘61249’ continues on Cost Effective Maintenance on BR, including the change to predicting the spares required before a locomotive arrived for servicing. This would appear to be a simple process. Oh No! Not only that but at one time the system appeared to think that the same wheelset was simultaneously fitted to six different vehicles! Mike Burke relates his problems with lack of adhesion, in one case with 60007 Sir Nigel Gresley going downhill with ineffective brakes. Using the ‘American’ brake (putting it into reverse and applying steam) eventually worked, to the accompaniment

of strange noises from the valve gear but no harm was done. The January issue reports on Sandown Park, collecting a medal and several certificates. The RSME came away with some awards, Mike and Chris Jones were awarded a Silver medal for their lovely 7¼ inch gauge A4, Wild Swan and Alan Thatcher received a Very Highly Commended for his two I/C engines. ‘61249’ writes again on lack of adhesion, this time when braking. BR knew quite a lot about this in the 1970/80s. Perhaps more than anyone else. ‘3450’ describes a last trip on a sick Bulleid Pacific down to Southampton. Mike Burke describes his early days as an apprentice, including suffering the usual practical jokes. John Billard recalls seeing Sir Winston Churchill’s funeral train, after which his car broke down on a roundabout and the resulting traffic chaos held up half the crowned heads of Europe on their way home after the funeral service! W. www.rsme.co.uk Ryedale Society of Model Engineers’ Monthly Newsheet had a picture of a jig made by George to help with soldering steam valves. A model appeared at Gilling recently, built by Stephen over a period of years, representing the J72 station pilot at York. It is single cylinder, slip eccentric, spirit fired, with a wet firebox. Editor, Bill Putman says; ‘Mary had a cleaning session in the clubroom dusting the bookcase, scrubbing the sink

and washing up bowl and giving the loos the once over. You’re engineers so you don’t need the detail but I have to live with her, so it gets a mention, right!’ W. www.rsme.org.uk Photograph 3 is two beautifully restored old buses at the London Bus Museum at Brooklands. Bradford Model Engineering Society’s Monthly Newsletter announces that the club Open Day will be held on Saturday 20th June and their Diesel Day on Sunday, 26th July, both at Northcliff Woods, Shipley. 3½, 5 and 7¼ inch gauge locomotives can be accommodated. Duncan McKay won the prize for Best in Show at the annual exhibition, with his 3½ inch gauge Britannia, 70021 Morning Star. Much work has been put into making the clubhouse more secure. Thanks are due to Godfrey Wormald for his welding expertise. It was noted that whilst using his welders’ hammer, he didn’t dislodge his spectacles once, although he mislaid them several times. It must only be his auctioneer’s gavel that is aerodynamically unstable! Members worked hard to keep the carriage seats dry on Santa Special days, a problem not faced by an Australian club they mentioned, which struggled to keep the seats cool enough to sit on and had to turn away women wearing thongs! W. www.bradfordmes.co.uk

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Restored buses at London Bus Museum, Brooklands. 395

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Susie’s Sweet Pea, Poppet. (Photo courtesy of Jeff Dickinson.) Another club announcing its Open Day is Rugby Model Engineering Society. This will be held on 9th May. Gauges available are 2½, 3½, 5 and 7¼ inch. W. www.rugbymes.co.uk Saffron Walden & District Society of Model Engineers’ Newsletter for January reports about 25 members venturing onto the track for the New Year’s Day steam up. Susie’s Sweet Pea, Poppet is equipped with a pony truck under the firebox in order to avoid excessive suspension travel on the rear driving wheels, which can affect the valve timing on Hackworth valve gear. Well, I’ve just learned something else new! Yes, that’s Susie (photo 4)! W. www.swdsme.org.uk

Stamford Model Engineering Society’s January newsletter has Editor, Joe Dobson having computer problems. He has been persuaded to buy an Apple Mac, which takes some grappling with after using Windows. A correspondence has ensued on motorcycle oil filters. A short article on the Railway Queens appears, Miss Molly Brown (not that one!), Queen in 1930 and who visited Derby Works and Germany as Ambassador for Peace, became Mrs. Woodcock and was a friend of the Editor’s parents. Her memorabilia has passed to him. I have now obtained a picture of the ‘Police’ locomotive as mentioned in M.E. 4502. It is 37 999, 5 inch

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Police Class 37 at Sutton Coldfield MES. (Photo courtesy of Steve Kesterton.) gauge, from Sutton Coldfield Model Engineering Society’s bonfire event, shown in their newsletter, Steaming Ahead, built by Bill Hall and named Monmouth (photo 5). I may have previously misunderstood the origins of the full size locomotive. It was 37093 renumbered and reliveried for an Inter-City 125 advert made in the 1980s. www.youtube. com/watch?v=d8EKe08BP0E W. www.scmes.co.uk Another photo harking back to a previous column is of Bob Underwood’s Mallet, also mentioned in M.E. 4502, from Welling & District Model Engineering Society (photo 6). A very interesting looking model. Grimsby & Cleethorpes Model Engineering Society’s The Blower features Grimsby

businessman, Stephen Hutson’s quadcopter camera drone on the front page, taken at the Boxing Day charity run. Stephen had shown an interest in filming club activities so was invited along. A clip is on the website. New member Andy Griffen brought his well-detailed 5 inch gauge South African Railways 15F and South African friend to go with it. Youngest member Alex lost no time in requesting a drive, after his Class 20 developed a fault. Other members appeared and the day was most successful, raising £130 for St Andrew’s Hospice. Good pre-publicity from the local press helped bring in the visitors. Having cured the problem with his Class 20, Alex reappeared at the New Year’s Day steam up and was out for so long on his steed that it was feared he had frozen into place! Takings were £150, again for St Andrews’. The edition closes with a fine shot of their rare six sailed windmill, which I understand originally had eight sails. W. www.gcmes.org.uk And finally, my book, referred to in the Introduction, arrived as I was finishing this piece. Literally one minute later I got an e-mail telling me it had been put through my letterbox. Isn’t that wonderful? Modern technology, eh?

Contact: [email protected] Bob Underwood’s 5 inch gauge Mallet. (Photo courtesy of Tony Riley.) 396

Model Engineer 6 March 2015

MARCH 4

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Guildford MES. Talk on Model Trams. Contact Mike Sleigh: [email protected] Leeds SMEE. Bob Ashton: The History of Radio. Contact Geoff Shackleton: 01977 798138. Sutton MEC. Bits & pieces night. Contact Jo Milan: 01737 352686. Warrington DMES. David Pope: Rebuilding the Marsden Engine. Contact Duncan Webster: 01925 262525. Brighton & Hove SMLE. Brian Jackson: More photographs from the Bill Jackson Collection. Contact Mick Funnell: 01323 892042. North London SME. Keith Hughes: The future of the GNR. Contact: Ian Johnston on 0208 449 0693. Rochdale SMEE. General meeting, Castelton Community Centre, 7pm. Contact Len Uff: 0161 928 5012. Romford MEC. Competition night with trophy presentation. 7.30pm. Contact Colin Hunt: 01708 709302. Stockport DSME. Bits and pieces. Contact Dave Waggett: 0161 430 8963. Oxford (City of) SME. A.G.M. Contact: [email protected] SMEE. A.G.M. Contact Peter Haycock: 01442 266050. York City & DSME. Crispin Cousins: 5in. Springbok using Trad. and Modern Methods. Contact Bob Polley: 01653 618324.

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Tiverton & District MES. Running Day at Rackenford track. Contact Bob Evenett: 01884 252691. Leeds SMEE. Public running at Eggborough Track, from 10am. Contact Geoff Shackleton: 01977 798138. Sutton MEC. Track day from noon. Contact Jo Milan: 01737 352686. Bedford MES. A.G.M. Contact Alan Beard: 01234 301867. Northampton SME. Ken Grubb: BR Class 8 Duke of Gloucester in Preservation. Contact: [email protected] 07907 051388. St. Albans DMES. Terry Summers: Mechanical Toys & Mechanisms including Automota from 1860 on. Contact Roy Verden: 01923 220590. St. Albans DMES. LCGB: Mike Fowler: Railways of East Lincs. Contact Roy Verden: 01923 220590. Sutton MEC. Rod Dean: Technical Features of the hawker Hunter. Contact Jo Milan: 01737 352686. SMEE. Basic Training Part 1, Day 2/ Digital Workshop Group. Contact Peter Haycock: 01442 266050. Guildford MES. Public running. Contact Mike Sleigh: [email protected] York City & DSME. Running day. Contact Bob Polley: 01653 618324. Lancaster & Morecambe MES. Project night. Contact Mike Glegg: 01995 606767.

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Peterborough SME. Roger Barker: The Vulcan Bomber. Contact Terry Midgley: 01733 348385. Chesterfield & District MES. A.G.M. Contact Mike Rhodes: 01623 648676. Romney Marsh MES. Products of your Winter Workshop. Contact Adrian Parker: 01303 894187. Guildford MES. Bits & pieces. Contact Mike Sleigh: [email protected] Leeds SMEE. Hugh Parkin: History of Doncaster Plant Works, Part 2. Contact Geoff Shackleton: 01977 798138. Salisbury DMES. Natter night with film show. Contact Jonathan Maxwell: 01722 320848. East Somerset SMEE. Stephen Wessel: Armstrong-Siddeley Lynx Radial Aero Engine. Contact Roy Lipscombe: 01761 414357. Warrington DMES. A.G.M. Contact Duncan Webster: 01925 262525. Brighton & Hove SMLE. Derek Osborn: Films and Nostalgia Galore! Contact Mick Funnell: 01323 892042. Rochdale SMEE. Auction night. Castelton Community Centre, 7pm. Contact Len Uff: 0161 928 5012. Romford MEC. Mike Brace: Ability that Counts. 8.00pm. Contact Colin Hunt: 01708 709302. Stockport DSME. John Slenn: Railway Signalling. Contact Dave Waggett: 0161 430 8963.

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Chesterfield & District MES. Public running at Hady Hill. Contact Mike Rhodes: 01623 648676. North Wiltshire MES. Play Day, visitors welcome but please contact Ken Parker: 07710 515507. Steam LS of Victoria. Meeting 12 noon in the club room. Contact Graham Plaskett: (03) 9750 5022. York City & DSME. Brian Claton: An Alternative Approach to 0-gauge Live Steam. Contact Bob Polley: 01653 618324. Frimley & Ascot LC. Colin Andrews: Hot Air Engines and Other Ephemera. Contact John Evans: 01276 34970. Guildford MES. A.G.M. Contact Mike Sleigh: [email protected] SMEE. Gauge 1 Group. Contact Peter Haycock: 01442 266050. Chesterfield & District MES. Public running at Hady Hill. Contact Mike Rhodes: 01623 648676. Lancaster & Morecambe MES. Pre-season testing inc Boiler testing. Contact Mike Glegg: 01995 606767. Oxford (City of) SME. Public running, Cutteslow Park. Contact: [email protected] Steam LS of Victoria. Working Bee. Contact Graham Plaskett: (03) 9750 5022. Romney Marsh MES. First track meeting of 2015. 2pm. Contact Adrian Parker: 01303 894187.

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Model Engineer 19 September 2014

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ROAD STEAM T This SPECIAL ISSUE is a celebration of steam traction engines - preserving, travelling on the road and rallying Road Locomotives

Road Locomotives

Right Burrell No. 3057, Lord Roberts was constructed to slightly heavier specification than the usual road locomotives; bigger belly tanks, heavier gauge platework and more substantial in the gears. Engines thus completed were known as contractors engines. This engine, dating from 1908, very narrowly escaped the scrapman’s torch.

Road Locomotives tR

e

us s

m car ri stea

ag

’s ell

The Golden Age

Many regard the majestic road locomotives as the paragon of steam traction. Breathtakingly powerful, yet gentle giants in experienced hands, these engines had both colossal strength and immense grace.

A den Age lden olden Go Gold The Golden The

t co John S

A

nyone who has attended the Great Dorset Steam Fair (GDSF) in the last thirty years or so can not have failed to notice the spectacle of one, two or three road locomotives hauling a heavy load up the steep incline of the ‘playpen’. These displays are watched by thousands of people every year. What is it about a steam engine working hard - sometimes approaching its capacity that draws us in? The sight can often be quite emotive and whilst we might try to

Races in the North

Races in the North

Races in the North

describe why it moves us, very few are and the origins of the able to quite put it into words. Great The road locomotives that were built Yorkshire Traction Engine during the last ten years of the 19th and Club

the first, say, twenty-five years of the 20th Centuries did sterling work for British industry and amusement caterers - as the showmen of the time were often referred to. Two manufacturers, Burrells and John Fowler, dominated the market in these machines but they didn’t have it all to themselves. William Foster, Richard Garrett, J. & H. McLaren and Aveling & Porter, to name but four more, were also producing road locomotives but, without a doubt, Burrells and Fowlers had the lion’s share. War was an extraordinary precursor to some intensive heavy locomotive manufacture. The Boer War made huge demands on British engineering and steam ‘drag’. laterimproved the outbreak of the Great War Gurney’s in 1914 led to many road locomotives again being commandeered by the War Department and, eventually, to large orders for heavy haulage engines being placed with, in particular but not solely, John Fowler of Leeds. This firm also supplied scores of sets of ploughing engines for use overseas. Upon the cessation of hostilities in 1918, however, the opposite happened as large quantities of heavy engines became available, depressing the market for new engines significantly for several years. The work undertaken by road London to Gurney’s An image of Goldsworthy locomotives largely the transporting carriage. steam Bath was of very large, indivisible loads such

The

Golden Age of and the Demise Steam Carriages

It was certainly was square in shape. Steam Carriage to be Carriage Company, The unconventional but proved The Hibernian was also one of the Company of Scotland, efficient. His carriage the London, on leaf springs. Coach Company and first to be suspended Steam Carriage Burrellthe No. most 3593, Duke Of Kent was supplied to a Holyhead and Liverpool Scotland saw some of service, and ofKent in 1914. It later went to haulage designs in thecontractor Company. The first proper successful advances in of in Kent, where it worked was devised work for a sawmill, also a contemporary probably the best known, John Scott Russell, more or also less 24 hours a day - on a sawmill by day in 1927. He built building was by Goldsworthy Gurney James Nasmyth who and on(and haulage rather beautiful hadto London by night. Now living in a most impressive and carriages in Edinburgh well-earned London and from theit has a somewhat easier serviceretirement coach and ran it between operated a steam car life on the rally field and always looks splendid. the comfort a more arguably Bath. He later improved city to Dalmeny), but as well - of his refined the and possibly the safety enlightened one. Russell what became any steam carriage companies the much placing passengers by building A Celebration of Road Steam overall concept by30 the which was sprung up throughout boiler at the back known as Gurney’s ‘drag’, improved engine and /1830s by the steam country during the 1820 enhanced actually a trailer towed of the carriage and greatly of experimentation incorporated two - an intensive period carriage itself. the springing. He also only in steam and, the carriage and improvement, not A contemporary of Gurney, ‘clutch’ devices that enabled in springing and was Walter by effectively engines and boilers, but to some extent his rival, to be steered at speed well-known the first regular ran one side. This to Hancock passenger comfort. Many ‘drive’ Hancock. disengaging the in some cases London between propensity pioneers spent fortunes, service in the City of overcame the steam carriage establishing occasionally high their entire worth, on Paddington and Bank, to overturn due to a relatively operating concerns. His steam ‘bus’ carriage building and venturing further afield. centre of gravity. designers were features was Amongst the pioneering incorporated many ‘modern’ Russell’s enterprise, however, Gurney, (to boiler Goldsworthy volume accident a tragic Walter Hancock, such as a low water destroyed following Sir Charles Dance; raising) that John Scott Russell and facilitate quick steam Heaton’s Steam company names included

During the 1820s steam powered carriages were but the talk of the town they were a short-lived spectacle on the streets of a few British towns and the main roads linking them.

M

A Celebration of Road

Above Pickering 1964;

Evening Star generates

for the fair organs to entertain

Times were changing by 1962 and, following the established pattern of traction engine rallies that were taking place on a more regular basis down south, the rally was to include a Grand Parade and other events

the crowds. (John H Meredith.)

The 1962 rally saw the first steam roller, Fowler No. 16851 entered. Also, Herbert Epton was to bring an 89 key Marenghi fair organ - quite a novelty for a steam engine rally. Its attendance

I

www.model-engineer.co.uk

rallies and reflects on fifty years of the Great Yorkshire Traction Engine Club.

www.model-engineer.co.uk 12

Above In the summer of 1993 two Fowler road locomotives travelled to the Isle of Man for a steam rally and whilst there were put to good use returning one of the Isle of Man Railways’ locomotives back to Douglas after a spell on the Manx Electric Railway. Here Fowler B6 No. 17106, Duke of York leads the load. Duke of York is a crane engine but the jib has been removed for this excursion. Built in 1928.

including an involved an heroic road in suppressing obstacle race with traction journey all the engines, they succeeded engines! which way from Lincolnshire the ageJack Hardy’s Aveling behind an old caused by a broken wheel, & Porter, No. any development through type Fordson Major tractor! of the carriage 9228 and Arthur Fearnley’s The Turnpike resulted in a total loss Fowler, No. old practice of taxation. Following on from the 14406, Pandora were The Scottish bodies responsible success of the the competitors. and, worse, loss of life. Trustees - government 1962 traction engine rally, In contrast to those first to take the the 1963 event users of the Pickering authorities were quick was to be even better for collecting tolls from Derby days, the rally carriages with almost 40 was to be a two a price for using opportunity to ban these engines! Two of these, highways - simply set day event and on the McLaren road Sunday there was twelve times locomotive No. 1652 Boadicea, from the road. a presentation of awards a steam carriage at about owned and fall of to exhibitors, ostensibly due by Steve Neville of Saffron The subject of the rise including a special Daily that of a horse carriage, Walden and Mirror Trophy fascinating, if ‘wear and tear’ Burrell No. 3657, Morning for best engine. On this the steam carriages is to their much greater Glory belonging occasion it bigger scheme to Brian Pitts of Horley, was. was presented to participant, somewhat brief in the Surrey, making nonsense though this Richard back and a three day road trip from Above A demonstration of heavy haulage at the GDSF. The middle engine here isPreston, Fowler B5 8920 to be forNo. turning of things. When we look Bedfordshire. out his Burrell Another aspect that has Joining Herbert Epton’s not succeed as of 1901, The Great North - the oldest surviving Fowler crane engine (although without its jib here) - and showman’s the prevailing locomotive, organ was the wonder why they did Lightning II considered, though, is that much acclaimed White’s discover to the of carries an Edinburgh registration mark (SG) having been supplied new to Stuart Dodds Leith. very highest standard. Unlike Mammoth Black Bess and Surprise; of the steam carriage operators the railways did, we soon attitude two of the engines that Gavioli Show Organ, said into in more recent times, much came to be the largest took part in the 1963 rally. the railways. They sponsorship by politics of the day very (Davidtowards at the time Warren.) and finest in the British established engineering think, there was Isles at the time. without trace. other as arch rivals and play. Surely, one would This was presented by www.model-engineer.co.uk A Celebration of Road 31 firms was viewed eachwww.model-engineer.co.uk a feature virtually disappeared ofSteam these early rallies and the Show Organ more efficient ever given to of road was history the a demand for faster and Preservation into consideration companies taking an Society by courtesy of rail. of no Looking back Asfornews interest that year there was John transport, the Appleford Reohorn of Barry Island. road transport, just as up’ the two means off we look right transport they have an almost ghostly included Fodens of Sandbach, ‘joining Engine Races The organ is now back to the very very conservative Sentinels The started to road it today. in private ownership up wasand of Shrewsbury, George Vested interests and a a Marshall we might describe beginning of the traction Traction engines and thanks to the No. 87003 named spread presence. Thurlow of and as The their the day. engine company popularity dedicaton of a small band a minor Surprise wasand, Stowmarket and Millers attitude, however, won in third place was another cycles, were on exhibition idea of a steam carriagepreservation movement apart, there of people who (Oils) of locomotives avery allowing small in the ofincreased, from 2pm. order group are prepared to transport Marshall, of station Brighouse. This latter north in No. 84679, in road transport Events commenced at to a railway of England, we re-emergence politicians had no intention traction engine and operate it, Mary, leaving yet travelling firm owned a find a group of of steam 3.30pm and enthusiasts this magnificent organ or, indeed, literally, another quite until Fowler machines not was, Marshall, enthusiasts Showman’s was continued it horrific has No. got together but passengers been a regular getting together these 32092, Black Bess engine, No. 14862, until about 8pm; all this to tocollect to stage atimes to stage mid Victorian to attender at rallies ever took transport rollfrom Excelsior which was later up inAmerica Traction Engine Derby last place. Great fun was place at Burtons Field since then. Another something Not until relatively cars any kind of mechanised sold to Monty at Pickering similar on Thornton Road. unthinkable. import ofonsteamhad a different the smaller Gavioli fair organ toSaturday Thackray and renamed and, spurred the evening drawn carriage startedof A 1956 Derby was planned on by the success of part of the country passenger was to be a practice Evening Star. powered take over from horse 15th August steam for the 18th recently-has in such displayed along with a North this occasion and the Attending for the first 1953. Held on a field in that successful of them had August but bad weather Foster Electric Light time was what Millers lanewas David as common sense! on British roads. interest it had got the better companies in which many Yorkshire. seen generated Warren (now Engine, No. 3643 restored be regarded not proved to be a most useful transport thecarriages could locally, similar events site of a housing of the organisers and had estate), they looks by George Flynn back vehicle in were at the the event was the races earliest financial interests. Whilst mid 1830s steam of Durham. This is now By the staged in 1954 and 1955 the form of Sentinel involved four traction cancelled, thereby bringing of steam traction part northern use of and Richard the waggon, by on then engines ban No. it 8992 that had, to an end the owned engine Preston’s collection. place a blanket had become 13 on

Steam

82

A Celebration of Road

the Saturday afternoon, considerably bigger affair of Roada Steam been onA Celebration with around 18 engines display outside the Black involved in a Swan pub prior succession to the start of the race. of different races, an engine The race itself ‘tug-o-war’ and what comprised of at least had become an three laps of the annual challenge between field and was witnessed Old Glory and by a good crowd. four Fordson Major tractors, The eventual winner over the was a Clayton best of three pulls. & Shuttleworth traction engine, No. The engines, together 36731 and named Old with a few Glory. The runner locally owned vintage cars and motor

Steam

Pickering Traction Engine Derby. That was not the end, however, but more just the beginning; some six years later, in 1962, the Pickering Recreation Ground Committee were looking to raise funds so, with the help of local enthusiasts they planned the first Pickering Traction Engine Rally to take place over the second weekend in August, again at Burtons Field.

www.model-engineer.co.uk www.model-engineer.co.uk

by Ernie Liversedge of Richard is currently Doncaster. the Great Yorkshire Traction Engine This waggon had been fitted with a Club’s (GYTEC) President. tanker body along with a small steam In 1963 the imaginations engine from a 1903 Locomobile of those car, organising the event enabling it to pump water were pushing and so it was new boundaries. Amongst able to replenish the the activities water tanks of the designed to entertain engines at the rally the spectators and, as it happened, around the ring were for many more that followed. demonstrations of This setting a traction engine waggon was sold in the to a threshing 1970s and later, drum and hedge pulling in 1986, it went to Australia by steam! where it Later that year a group remains to this day. of those involved formed the Pickering Traction A Celebration of Road

Steam

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Includes 2 FREE plans worth £25! 2in. Marshall five ton steam tractor build and traction engine accessories by W.J Hughes Available at selected WHS High Street, WHS Travel, local newsagents, or order online at www.myhobbystore.co.uk/roadsteam

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