Menswear_Pattern_Cutting (2).pdf

Menswear Pattern Cutting First Edition Tanya Dove -Designer, Creator, Author, Educator

Acknowledgements I would like to thank: My male friends who became my fitting models, and with their help trying on my samples A Technical Foundation was created. Edward, Stuart, Peter, Dominique, Tom and Scott. My teacher Graham at London College of Fashion for teaching me Bespoke Tailoring Techniques. And to all the teachers and students who have crossed my path, I thank you.

A Technical Foundation, Menswear Pattern Cutting is due for publication October 2014. For enquires pre publication please contact the author [email protected] Prevous works now available online and in bookstores.

A Technical Foundation Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting

Concept to Creation The Design Process

ISBN 9781849634717

ISBN 9781849635738

Chapter 1

Contents Information

Page No. 4

2

Trousers

16

3

Pleats and Fullness

68

4

Body blocks

76

5

Front openings

92

6

Sleeves and Cuffs

106

7

Collars

130

8

Necklines

158

9

Hoods

164

10

Pockets

170

11

Shirt details

182

12

Jersey Tops

192

13

Jersey Trousers

202

14

Boiler Suits

214

15

Casual Jackets

228

16

Casual Coats

238

17

Tailored Jackets

246

18

Tailored Coats

278

19

Ties

298

20

Loungewear

304

21

Grading

322

22

Specification Templates

328

23

Costing Garments

332

24

Fabrics

338

Introduction A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting The aim of this book is to provide a clear flexible guide to pattern cutting for menswear. It provides detailed construction information for garment blocks and components that are used to produce well cut designs for men. The measurements contained within this book have evolved from an analysis of young men, from high street retailer sizing to individual body shapes. There is no definitive universal sizing chart, many retailers adjusting their sizing to suit the age group of their consumers. The style of pattern construction throughout the book provides a 40” chest, 100cm male model measurements. The measurement guide is derived for the user to write his or her own chosen measurements, which can replace the standard size. The pattern block construction throughout this book is for the modern man, using up to date methodology of creation for a young slim figure. The book includes three different shapes of body blocks that are used to create men’s top body garments. From the fitted young style of shirt, to the formal office shirt and casual weekend style. These foundation body blocks are used throughout the book and adapted into jersey blocks, casual jacket and tailored jacket blocks. To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an individual’s size, garment blocks are always used in industry and adapted into the chosen design. A Technical Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used and adapted repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the blocks, not individual garment designs. A Technical Foundation shows you the creation of blocks through to plans and patterns for making specific designs, where seam allowance is only added onto pattern examples, blocks and plans being net of allowances. The book is written for students and fashion designers to explore their own creativity in their approach to men’s garment creation. It shows clear detailed illustrations and technical construction information, showing adaption of blocks in colour for easy use. Each garment block section covers a range of different shaped garment blocks, which makes adapting into individual designs that much easier. The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from trouser and body blocks through to tailoring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and component in different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the designers to evolve through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then have the technical skills to design their own collections. There are also technically illustrated sample designs to show the type of garments that the different blocks can create.

A Technical Foundation also shows detailed technical specification templates to enable the designers to draw their designs in detail. It contains a chapter for costing garments and producing specification sheets which are used in industry to work with pattern cutters and factories. The grading chapter shows a grading size chart of how to change garment sizes, with detailed illustrations and information on pivot grading. The final chapter, Fabrics, gives information on how to cut out fabric and the different fabric qualities. There are many choices of fabrics available to use within fashion design, from natural fibres like cotton, wool, silk and linen to man made and mixed fibre fabrics. The fibres chart gives a description of some different types of natural and manufactured fabrics available.

Menswear Designing Men are now far more conscious of their body and the clothes they wear, with a greater confidence in maintaining a well-groomed appearance now defines what it is to be ‘a man’ in today’s society. The loose fitting shirts and loose tailored trousers of the 1980’s have been replaced from the catwalks to the high street with body conscious styles, interesting fabrics, and clever cutting methods. Men are now much more aware of their own body and image, and how clothes fit them. Menswear designers and catwalk shows have always taken back stage to women’s fashion shows and publicity, but things are now changing for men. More and more menswear designers are pushing the boundaries of what is classified as conventional clothing for men. There were more skirts for men seen on the Summer 14 catwalks than seen before. The idea of men in skirts blurs the visual distinctions between the sexes. It contradicts how men are expected to look and, more fundamentally, challenges ideal attributes of male behavior. Their adoption by the general male populace will ultimately depend on the re-evaluation of traditional gender conventions. Through the work of contemporary designers, the idea of ‘men in skirts’ is constantly given new impetus. The new ‘metro-sexual’ man is a young man with a healthy disposable income, living or working near a city. He is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. The acceptance and changing shapes and styles in menswear is becoming as important as women’s wear.



Tanya Dove

1. Information

1. INFORMATION Measurement Size Chart The measurement size chart is a guide of body measurements for size 100cm (40”) chest, based on a male model physique 6 foot tall. The measurements have been compiled by an analysis of top high street retailers in the UK, and a selection of male models with the same chest measurement. There is no definitive size chart across the UK, or indeed across the globe for garment sizes. Many stores choose to adapt their size towards their customer profile. The main difference between sizes is the chest and waist measurement where a 5cm grade (size difference) is used. This still remains relatively standard across the industry. This measurement guide chart has been used as the standard throughout A Technical Foundation. There is a column for you to add in your own size chart, whether it is your own measurements or your idealistic customers body size. Refer to Chapter 21, Grading for larger and smaller body sizes.

Measurement Cross shoulder One Shoulder Back Neck Drop Front Neck Drop Back Neck Width Neck Size XB - 14cm down from HPS XF - 14cm down from HPS CB neck to chest (armhole depth) Chest Waist - (natural WL - not used) Waistline ( 4cm below natural WL) Body length to natural waistline Waistline to Seat line Seat Crutch Line (body rise) from WL Inside Leg Outside Leg from WL Thigh Knee Ankle Sleeve Length Bicep Elbow Wrist

40"/100cm

46 15 1.5 9 16 42 42 40 26 100 86 89 53 20 104 28 85 108 59 40 25 62 32 28 18

Your Size

1. Information

Body Measurements

7

1. Information

Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern EXAMPLE Start any new design by choosing the most suitable block for your new design. PLAN your design by tracing over the block, and marking all the new design details onto the plan. PATTERN pieces are then taken from the plan individually and seam allowance added to each piece to enable the design to be sewn together.

Example shows the front leg of a pair of jeans. The pattern for the front leg is made up of 8 pieces. Once your design is made, you can refer back to the plan to make additional pairs of jeans, changing the design details, pocket placement etc. This is the advantage of keeping plans, it means you do not have to start again if a design works. On the other side, if there is a fitting issue, or a design detail that does not work, you can refer back to the plan and make the changes, again the plan prevents you from going back to the beginning.

15

2. Trousers

2. TROUSERS Introduction Men’s trousers come in two predominant shapes. The Jeans style and the Tailored Trousers style. The construction of the back seam and crutch line is different for both designs. Traditionally the tailored trouser style would be worn by men in offices who sit down a lot. The crutch line is longer which not only makes more room at the back for sitting, but also more room for the thigh (also for sitting down a lot). Tailored trousers always used to be made of wool and lined to the knee. Wool is a more delicate fabric than denim cottons, which jeans are made of, and therefore enough movement needs to be added for comfort when worn. The jeans construction adds extra into the back seat line instead of the crutch line. This creates shaping around the bottom allowing for sitting also. This method keeps the leg slimmer and the trousers tighter around the thigh. Traditionally jeans would have been work wear and therefore more standing than sitting. Denim fabric, predominantly used for jeans, is also a tough strong fabric which would stretch slightly after many times of wear. Construction of the trouser blocks shows 3 steps – Step 1 the basic construction, Step 2 is jeans, Step 3 is the tailored trousers. The basic step 1 would not be used to make trousers and would always be adapted into the jeans or tailored style as it does not have enough movement in it. Modern trouser designs can use either the tailored or jeans construction method, and also adapt the plan suit the design/customer.

Trousers Lengths Men’s trouser lengths are measured from the inside leg in inches.

Very short shorts Short (swimming shorts length) Above the Knee (tailored shorts length On the knee High Mid calf (cargo pants style) Ankle

4” – 10cm 8” – 20cm 15” – 37.5cm 17” – 42.5cm 24” – 60cm 34” – 85cm

2. Trousers

Trousers Lengths

17

2. Trousers

Trouser Block A trouser block is the basic foundation of making trousers. It needs to have an opening, normally centre front fly for menswear. Trousers also need to have a waist finish, either a waistband or a facing on the inside. Mens trousers also tend to have belt loops sewn onto the waistline for a belt to be passed through. Pockets are also common on mens trousers, from patch pockets to pockets in side seams. The top of the basic block reaches the waistline on men (not the natural waistline which is never used).

18

2. Trousers

Jeans The jeans block has a more fitted trouser leg, which requires additional fabric placed into the centre back seam to enable you to sit down comfortably. The average amount added into the back seam is 3cm, but this depends on the size of the wearer’s bottom. There needs to be enough fabric so when you sit down the top edge of the jeans does not drop down too far. Jeans are traditionally full of details - pockets, yokes, belt loops, and topstitching details. A jeans style can however be made in any fabric, including wool which is classified as being a tailoring fabric. Generally they are seen made of casual cotton fabrics, denim, corduory, brushed cotton etc.

22

2. Trousers

Tailored Trousers Tailored trouser blocks have an increased centre back crutch seam by lowering the crutchline and extending the thigh measurement. An additional amount is added to the centre back waistline at the top of the seam. This style of trousers is traditional for mens suits, where the leg and back crutch seam are looser. Compared to jeans which are more fitted style of trousers. Tailored trousers are generally made in wool and lined to the kneeline. Pockets are normally seen in the side seam, with one or two back tailored jet pockets. The detailing on tailored trousers is minimal compared to jeans style of trousers. This looser leg suits wool fabrics as there is more movement than cottons which are used in the casual jeans style of fitting.

28

2. Trousers

Fly Front Closure A fly front closure is where the zipper is sewn into a seam and cannot be seen. It is made using two additional pattern pieces, a fly back which is sewn behind the zipper to protect the skin, and a fly front which is attached to the top side of the opening and topstitched in place. A fly closure can also be made on jackets and coats using the same principle. For mens trousers the fly is always stitched to the LEFT. Women’s trousers are also sometimes sewn on the left, but traditionally mens are left and women are right.

33

2. Trousers

Twisted Jeans The construction of twisted jeans is where you take part of the front leg and place it on the back leg, and vice versa. The example shows the new seam being down the centre front and back of the leg, with no side seam, or inside leg seam. This type of trousers can be made in any fabric, but has been seen in denim jeans with topstitching emphasis to show the new seam placement. The inside leg panel works best with a seam just above the kneeline, as the technical construction of placing the back crutch onto the front is difficult to achieve when the pattern piece is to the hem.

45

4. Body Blocks

4. BODY BLOCKS For woven tops a men’s wardrobe predominantly consists of shirts. With long and short sleeves, and without sleeves where the garments are called waistcoats or gilets. Body blocks are the foundation of making all top body woven garments including outergarment blocks which make jackets and coats. The body block chapter will guide you through the three body shape blocks, fitted, formal and casual. A body block is a foundation of a top garment. It needs to have an opening, collar or neck finish and armhole or sleeve finish.

Fitted

– a young, high fashion fitted style, with back darts for shaping. Fitted shirts can be made of many types of fabrics although men’s shirts are predominantly made of cotton, or cotton blends.

Formal

– an office shirt, generally made of cotton. The construction of which is the modern man, more fitted than the traditional office shirt, but with movement. Optional to use the back dart for shaping. This shirt is seen in the typical cotton polyester shirting fabrics, subtle stripes, pastel colours etc.

Casual – a loose fitting, more boxy style of shirt, generally seen with a flatter more open

collar. The weekend and holiday shirt. This shirt is often seen in checks, prints and stripes. It is also seen in different cotton blends and also works well in linen.

Fitted

Formal

Casual

4. Body Blocks

Fitted, Formal and Casual Body Shape Differences Picture shows a standard two piece collar and front grown on placket. The black outline is the fitted shirt, blue is formal and green is the largest casual shirt shape.

77

6. Sleeves and Cuffs

6. SLEEVES AND CUFFS To create a sleeve block you need to know the armhole measurement of the body block you want to use to enable the sleeve to fit into the armhole perfectly. The wider the shoulder = the straighter the armhole = the flatter AND SHORTER the sleeve head. When a design is very fitted the sleeve head needs to be more shaped and higher to fit the armhole correctly. When the shoulder is wider, for casual styles and dropped shoulder styles the shoulder head is straighter as it is looser to the body. Sleeve head measurement is the length from the shoulder point (end of shoulder) and finishes an average of 6.5cm under the XB line. However sleeve head depends as above, on how loose the armhole is on the body. An average sleeve head height is 16.5cm for a fitted sleeve head.

Sleeve Lengths

6. Sleeves and Cuffs

Sleeve Construction

107

7. Collars

7. COLLARS Types of Collars Collars are attached to the neckline of garments. There are four different types of collar construction. The key measurement when making a collar is the neckline. Every collar has a style line – this is the outside edge and can be styled as per design requirements. Collars always have an inside and outside, therefore in most cases cutting TWO of the collar pieces to be able to finish the outside edge (style line). The underside of the collar (the piece that is not seen but supports the topside has interfacing attached to it to give the collar a firmer look.

There are 4 main types of collars –

1.Flat collars - Flat collars sit on/around the neckline, lying flat against the body. The outside edge of the collar is your style line.

2.Grown on collars - This collar is constructed as an extension of the body. Creating the

collar style line (the outside edge) then adding the back neck measurement as a continuation of the break line. Slash and open the back neck measurement to allow the collar to sit flat against the neck. The more you add the fuller the collar will be on the outside edge, eventually creating a frill.

3.Standing Collars - Collars that sit around the neckline and not on the body. Shirt collars,

mandarin collar, standing collars. These can be made as two pattern pieces – a collar stand and a collar fall, or some can be made as a one-piece pattern. When making a standing collar from two pattern pieces the collar FALL must be 1cm larger than the collar STAND. This allows the fall to drape over the stand and the seam will be hidden.

4.Collar with Rever - Rever collars are traditional tailoring collars and can be found on most coats and tailored jackets. They can also be used on shirts.

Collar construction is shown WITHOUT front button stand and closure construction. Unless otherwise indicated. Please refer to Chapter 5 for different types of front openings. Illustrations are shown with a grown on placket.

7. Collars

Measuring the Neckline It is important to measure the neckline accurately to attach a collar in place. This is done by using a tape measure on the side to obtain the back neck, and then front neck measurements. The body blocks neckline is fitted around the neck. For some collars you need to make the neckline bigger first before constructing the collar.

131

1

Information

4

3

Introduction 4

Introduction 68

Measurement Size Chart 6

Knife Pleats 69

Body Measurements 7

Accordion Pleats 69

Abbreviations Index 8

Box Pleats 70

Pattern Making Tools 8

Inverted Box Pleats 70

Ease 9

Sunray Pleats 71

Seams 9

Gathers 72

Hems 10

Two Sided Gathers 72

Notches 10

One Sided Gathers 72

Darts 11

Godets 73

Drill Holes 11

Pleats and Fullness Designs 74

4

Grain Lines 12

Body Blocks

Folded Edges 12

Introduction 76

Zipper Openings 13

Fitted, Formal, Casual Body Shapes 77

Interfacing 14

Fitted Body Construction 78

Blocks, Plans and Patterns 14

Three Body Construction 79

Pattern Making Steps 15

2

Pleats and Fullness

Trousers

Sleeveless Garments 83

16

Sleeveless Body Block 84

Introduction 16

Gilet Construction 85

Trousers Lengths 17

Gilet Designs 86

Trouser Lengths Diagram 17

Quilting Examples 87

Trouser Block Construction 18

Waistcoat Block 88

Jeans Construction 22

Waistcoat Designs 90

Tailored Trouser Construction 28 Fly Front Closure 33

Bib Construction 91

5

Front Openings

Waist Finishes 36

Introduction 92

Straight Waistbands 37

Facing 92

Low Waist Waistband 37

Button and Loops 94

No Waistband finish 38

Zipper Opening 96

High Waistband 38

Plackets 97

Belt Loop Construction 39

Grown On Placket 97

Narrow Leg Trousers 40

Concealed Placket 99

Wide Leg Trousers 42

Separate Placket 100

Twisted Jeans Construction 45

Lip Placket 102

Dropped Crutch Construction 49

Half Placket Opening 103

Fishermans Trousers 53

Double Breasted Opening 105

Trouser Hem Cuff 56 Kilt Construction 59 Mans Skirt 62 Waistband Designs 63 Trouser Designs 64

6

Sleeves and Cuffs

106

8

Introduction 158

Sleeve Lengths 106

Facing 159

Sleeve Construction 107

Neck Binding 161

Three Sleeve Construction 110

Neckline Shapes 162

9

Dropped Shoulder Sleeves 114 Kimono Sleeves 116

Hoods

Raglan Sleeves 118

Basic Hood Construction 165

Sleeve Hems 120

Shaped Hood Construction 166

Sleeve Placket 120

Hood With Gusset Construction 167

Sewing a Sleeve Placket 121

Drawcord Hood Construction 168

Keyhole Finish 122

Pockets Introduction 170

Double Cuff 125

Patch Pockets 170

Cuff Designs 126

3D Patch Pockets 173 Kangaroo Pockets 175

Types of Collars 130

Pockets in Side Seams 176

Measuring the Neckline 131

Side Seam Pocket Designs 177

Flat Collars 132

Tailored Pockets 178

Peter Pan Collar 133

Welt Pockets 179

Sailor Collar 134

Jet Pockets 179

Cape Collar 135

Jet Pocket Construction 180

Grown On Collars 136

Tailored Pocket Sample Designs 181

11

Shirt Details

Standing Collars 138

Introduction 182

Mandarin Collar 139

Shirt Design Details List 182

One Piece Shirt Collar 140

Yoke Construction 183

Convertible Collar 141

Epelet Construction 183

Shirt Collar 142

Shirt Construction Example 184

Double Shirt Collar 143

Yoke Designs 186

Removable top collar 144

Epelet Designs 188

Polo Shirts 145

Side Hem Details 189

Buttoned Polo Shirt Collar 146

Shirt Designs 190

Open Polo Shirt Collar 147

170

Patch Pocket Sample Designs 172

130

Introduction 130

Shawl Collar 136

164

Sample Hood Designs 169

10

Sleeve Cuffs 124

Collars

158

Introduction 164

Sleeve Placket Designs 123

7

Necklines

Introduction 106

12

Jersey Tops

Rever Collars 148

Introduction 192

Rever Collar Terminology 148

Jersey Garment Measurement Guide 193

Rever Collar Construction 149

Fitted Jersey Body Block 194

Double Breasted Rever Collar 152

Loose Jersey Block Construction 195

Rever Collar Designs 153

Vest Body Block Construction 196

Standing Collar Designs 154

T-Shirt Designs 197

Back Collar Designs 156

Sweatshirt Designs 199 Hoodie Designs 200

182

192

13

Jersey Trousers

202

18

Introduction 278

Jersey Trouser Block 202

Tailored Coat Shapes 278

Jogging Bottoms Block 204

Tailored Coat Block 280

Dropped Crutch Jersey Bottoms 206

Tail Coat Construction 286

Elastic and Draw Cord Waist 207

Cape Coat Construction 290

Separate Waist Channel 208 Draw Cord Waist Designs 210

Introduction 298 Tie construction 299

Jersey Trouser Designs 212

15

20

Introduction 214

Introduction 304 Onesie Block Construction 306

Boiler Suit Design 218

Dressing Gown Block 310

Dungarees Design 223

Dressing Gown Designs 313

228

Long Johns 315

21

Grading

Fitted Casual Jacket Designs 231

Introduction 322

Casual Jacket Block - Loose Fit 234

Grading Size Chart Guide 322

Casual Loose Jacket Designs 236

Casual Coats

Grading Body Block 324 Grading Sleeves 325

Casual Fitted Coat Block 239

Grading a Tailored Jacket 326

Casual Loose Coat Block 240

Grading a Two Piece Sleeve 327

22

Casual Coat Designs 241

246

Specification Templates

Introduction 246

Body Specification Template 329 Trousers Specification Template 330

Two Piece Sleeve Construction 250

Jacket Specification Template 331

23

Costing Garments

Jacket Lining 260

Fabric Widths 332

Vents 264

Costing Garments Chart 333

Lining a Vent 266

Fabric Lay 333

Button Sizes 268

Specification Sheet Trousers 335

Bespoke Tailoring Techniques 269

Specification Sheet Tops 336

Hand Basting Canvas 269

Specification Sheet Jackets and Coats 337

Chest Piece 269 Break Line Tape 270

24

Fabrics Cutting Fabric 338

Under Collar 270

Fabric Qualities 338

Shoulder Pads 271

Fabric Classifications 339

Sleeve Roll 271

Natural Fibers Chart 340

Tailored Shoulder Picture 272

Manufactured Fibers Chart 343

Tailored Jacket Designs 273

328

Introduction 328

Tailored Jacket Block Construction 247 Single Breasted Jacket Construction 254

322

Grading Trousers 323

238

Introduction 238

Tailored Jackets

304

Shaped front opening 321

Casual Jacket Block - Fitted 228

17

Loungewear

One Piece Block Construction 214

Casual Jackets

298

Bow Ties 302

214

Introduction 228

16

Ties

Gathered Cuff Construction 211

Boiler Suits

278

Tailored Coat Designs 292

19

Elastic Waist Designs 209

14

Tailored Coats

Introduction 202

332

338