Menswear Pattern Cutting First Edition Tanya Dove -Designer, Creator, Author, Educator
Acknowledgements I would like to thank: My male friends who became my fitting models, and with their help trying on my samples A Technical Foundation was created. Edward, Stuart, Peter, Dominique, Tom and Scott. My teacher Graham at London College of Fashion for teaching me Bespoke Tailoring Techniques. And to all the teachers and students who have crossed my path, I thank you.
A Technical Foundation, Menswear Pattern Cutting is due for publication October 2014. For enquires pre publication please contact the author
[email protected] Prevous works now available online and in bookstores.
A Technical Foundation Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting
Concept to Creation The Design Process
ISBN 9781849634717
ISBN 9781849635738
Chapter 1
Contents Information
Page No. 4
2
Trousers
16
3
Pleats and Fullness
68
4
Body blocks
76
5
Front openings
92
6
Sleeves and Cuffs
106
7
Collars
130
8
Necklines
158
9
Hoods
164
10
Pockets
170
11
Shirt details
182
12
Jersey Tops
192
13
Jersey Trousers
202
14
Boiler Suits
214
15
Casual Jackets
228
16
Casual Coats
238
17
Tailored Jackets
246
18
Tailored Coats
278
19
Ties
298
20
Loungewear
304
21
Grading
322
22
Specification Templates
328
23
Costing Garments
332
24
Fabrics
338
Introduction A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting The aim of this book is to provide a clear flexible guide to pattern cutting for menswear. It provides detailed construction information for garment blocks and components that are used to produce well cut designs for men. The measurements contained within this book have evolved from an analysis of young men, from high street retailer sizing to individual body shapes. There is no definitive universal sizing chart, many retailers adjusting their sizing to suit the age group of their consumers. The style of pattern construction throughout the book provides a 40” chest, 100cm male model measurements. The measurement guide is derived for the user to write his or her own chosen measurements, which can replace the standard size. The pattern block construction throughout this book is for the modern man, using up to date methodology of creation for a young slim figure. The book includes three different shapes of body blocks that are used to create men’s top body garments. From the fitted young style of shirt, to the formal office shirt and casual weekend style. These foundation body blocks are used throughout the book and adapted into jersey blocks, casual jacket and tailored jacket blocks. To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an individual’s size, garment blocks are always used in industry and adapted into the chosen design. A Technical Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used and adapted repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the blocks, not individual garment designs. A Technical Foundation shows you the creation of blocks through to plans and patterns for making specific designs, where seam allowance is only added onto pattern examples, blocks and plans being net of allowances. The book is written for students and fashion designers to explore their own creativity in their approach to men’s garment creation. It shows clear detailed illustrations and technical construction information, showing adaption of blocks in colour for easy use. Each garment block section covers a range of different shaped garment blocks, which makes adapting into individual designs that much easier. The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from trouser and body blocks through to tailoring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and component in different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the designers to evolve through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then have the technical skills to design their own collections. There are also technically illustrated sample designs to show the type of garments that the different blocks can create.
A Technical Foundation also shows detailed technical specification templates to enable the designers to draw their designs in detail. It contains a chapter for costing garments and producing specification sheets which are used in industry to work with pattern cutters and factories. The grading chapter shows a grading size chart of how to change garment sizes, with detailed illustrations and information on pivot grading. The final chapter, Fabrics, gives information on how to cut out fabric and the different fabric qualities. There are many choices of fabrics available to use within fashion design, from natural fibres like cotton, wool, silk and linen to man made and mixed fibre fabrics. The fibres chart gives a description of some different types of natural and manufactured fabrics available.
Menswear Designing Men are now far more conscious of their body and the clothes they wear, with a greater confidence in maintaining a well-groomed appearance now defines what it is to be ‘a man’ in today’s society. The loose fitting shirts and loose tailored trousers of the 1980’s have been replaced from the catwalks to the high street with body conscious styles, interesting fabrics, and clever cutting methods. Men are now much more aware of their own body and image, and how clothes fit them. Menswear designers and catwalk shows have always taken back stage to women’s fashion shows and publicity, but things are now changing for men. More and more menswear designers are pushing the boundaries of what is classified as conventional clothing for men. There were more skirts for men seen on the Summer 14 catwalks than seen before. The idea of men in skirts blurs the visual distinctions between the sexes. It contradicts how men are expected to look and, more fundamentally, challenges ideal attributes of male behavior. Their adoption by the general male populace will ultimately depend on the re-evaluation of traditional gender conventions. Through the work of contemporary designers, the idea of ‘men in skirts’ is constantly given new impetus. The new ‘metro-sexual’ man is a young man with a healthy disposable income, living or working near a city. He is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. The acceptance and changing shapes and styles in menswear is becoming as important as women’s wear.
Tanya Dove
1. Information
1. INFORMATION Measurement Size Chart The measurement size chart is a guide of body measurements for size 100cm (40”) chest, based on a male model physique 6 foot tall. The measurements have been compiled by an analysis of top high street retailers in the UK, and a selection of male models with the same chest measurement. There is no definitive size chart across the UK, or indeed across the globe for garment sizes. Many stores choose to adapt their size towards their customer profile. The main difference between sizes is the chest and waist measurement where a 5cm grade (size difference) is used. This still remains relatively standard across the industry. This measurement guide chart has been used as the standard throughout A Technical Foundation. There is a column for you to add in your own size chart, whether it is your own measurements or your idealistic customers body size. Refer to Chapter 21, Grading for larger and smaller body sizes.
Measurement Cross shoulder One Shoulder Back Neck Drop Front Neck Drop Back Neck Width Neck Size XB - 14cm down from HPS XF - 14cm down from HPS CB neck to chest (armhole depth) Chest Waist - (natural WL - not used) Waistline ( 4cm below natural WL) Body length to natural waistline Waistline to Seat line Seat Crutch Line (body rise) from WL Inside Leg Outside Leg from WL Thigh Knee Ankle Sleeve Length Bicep Elbow Wrist
40"/100cm
46 15 1.5 9 16 42 42 40 26 100 86 89 53 20 104 28 85 108 59 40 25 62 32 28 18
Your Size
1. Information
Body Measurements
7
1. Information
Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern EXAMPLE Start any new design by choosing the most suitable block for your new design. PLAN your design by tracing over the block, and marking all the new design details onto the plan. PATTERN pieces are then taken from the plan individually and seam allowance added to each piece to enable the design to be sewn together.
Example shows the front leg of a pair of jeans. The pattern for the front leg is made up of 8 pieces. Once your design is made, you can refer back to the plan to make additional pairs of jeans, changing the design details, pocket placement etc. This is the advantage of keeping plans, it means you do not have to start again if a design works. On the other side, if there is a fitting issue, or a design detail that does not work, you can refer back to the plan and make the changes, again the plan prevents you from going back to the beginning.
15
2. Trousers
2. TROUSERS Introduction Men’s trousers come in two predominant shapes. The Jeans style and the Tailored Trousers style. The construction of the back seam and crutch line is different for both designs. Traditionally the tailored trouser style would be worn by men in offices who sit down a lot. The crutch line is longer which not only makes more room at the back for sitting, but also more room for the thigh (also for sitting down a lot). Tailored trousers always used to be made of wool and lined to the knee. Wool is a more delicate fabric than denim cottons, which jeans are made of, and therefore enough movement needs to be added for comfort when worn. The jeans construction adds extra into the back seat line instead of the crutch line. This creates shaping around the bottom allowing for sitting also. This method keeps the leg slimmer and the trousers tighter around the thigh. Traditionally jeans would have been work wear and therefore more standing than sitting. Denim fabric, predominantly used for jeans, is also a tough strong fabric which would stretch slightly after many times of wear. Construction of the trouser blocks shows 3 steps – Step 1 the basic construction, Step 2 is jeans, Step 3 is the tailored trousers. The basic step 1 would not be used to make trousers and would always be adapted into the jeans or tailored style as it does not have enough movement in it. Modern trouser designs can use either the tailored or jeans construction method, and also adapt the plan suit the design/customer.
Trousers Lengths Men’s trouser lengths are measured from the inside leg in inches.
Very short shorts Short (swimming shorts length) Above the Knee (tailored shorts length On the knee High Mid calf (cargo pants style) Ankle
4” – 10cm 8” – 20cm 15” – 37.5cm 17” – 42.5cm 24” – 60cm 34” – 85cm
2. Trousers
Trousers Lengths
17
2. Trousers
Trouser Block A trouser block is the basic foundation of making trousers. It needs to have an opening, normally centre front fly for menswear. Trousers also need to have a waist finish, either a waistband or a facing on the inside. Mens trousers also tend to have belt loops sewn onto the waistline for a belt to be passed through. Pockets are also common on mens trousers, from patch pockets to pockets in side seams. The top of the basic block reaches the waistline on men (not the natural waistline which is never used).
18
2. Trousers
Jeans The jeans block has a more fitted trouser leg, which requires additional fabric placed into the centre back seam to enable you to sit down comfortably. The average amount added into the back seam is 3cm, but this depends on the size of the wearer’s bottom. There needs to be enough fabric so when you sit down the top edge of the jeans does not drop down too far. Jeans are traditionally full of details - pockets, yokes, belt loops, and topstitching details. A jeans style can however be made in any fabric, including wool which is classified as being a tailoring fabric. Generally they are seen made of casual cotton fabrics, denim, corduory, brushed cotton etc.
22
2. Trousers
Tailored Trousers Tailored trouser blocks have an increased centre back crutch seam by lowering the crutchline and extending the thigh measurement. An additional amount is added to the centre back waistline at the top of the seam. This style of trousers is traditional for mens suits, where the leg and back crutch seam are looser. Compared to jeans which are more fitted style of trousers. Tailored trousers are generally made in wool and lined to the kneeline. Pockets are normally seen in the side seam, with one or two back tailored jet pockets. The detailing on tailored trousers is minimal compared to jeans style of trousers. This looser leg suits wool fabrics as there is more movement than cottons which are used in the casual jeans style of fitting.
28
2. Trousers
Fly Front Closure A fly front closure is where the zipper is sewn into a seam and cannot be seen. It is made using two additional pattern pieces, a fly back which is sewn behind the zipper to protect the skin, and a fly front which is attached to the top side of the opening and topstitched in place. A fly closure can also be made on jackets and coats using the same principle. For mens trousers the fly is always stitched to the LEFT. Women’s trousers are also sometimes sewn on the left, but traditionally mens are left and women are right.
33
2. Trousers
Twisted Jeans The construction of twisted jeans is where you take part of the front leg and place it on the back leg, and vice versa. The example shows the new seam being down the centre front and back of the leg, with no side seam, or inside leg seam. This type of trousers can be made in any fabric, but has been seen in denim jeans with topstitching emphasis to show the new seam placement. The inside leg panel works best with a seam just above the kneeline, as the technical construction of placing the back crutch onto the front is difficult to achieve when the pattern piece is to the hem.
45
4. Body Blocks
4. BODY BLOCKS For woven tops a men’s wardrobe predominantly consists of shirts. With long and short sleeves, and without sleeves where the garments are called waistcoats or gilets. Body blocks are the foundation of making all top body woven garments including outergarment blocks which make jackets and coats. The body block chapter will guide you through the three body shape blocks, fitted, formal and casual. A body block is a foundation of a top garment. It needs to have an opening, collar or neck finish and armhole or sleeve finish.
Fitted
– a young, high fashion fitted style, with back darts for shaping. Fitted shirts can be made of many types of fabrics although men’s shirts are predominantly made of cotton, or cotton blends.
Formal
– an office shirt, generally made of cotton. The construction of which is the modern man, more fitted than the traditional office shirt, but with movement. Optional to use the back dart for shaping. This shirt is seen in the typical cotton polyester shirting fabrics, subtle stripes, pastel colours etc.
Casual – a loose fitting, more boxy style of shirt, generally seen with a flatter more open
collar. The weekend and holiday shirt. This shirt is often seen in checks, prints and stripes. It is also seen in different cotton blends and also works well in linen.
Fitted
Formal
Casual
4. Body Blocks
Fitted, Formal and Casual Body Shape Differences Picture shows a standard two piece collar and front grown on placket. The black outline is the fitted shirt, blue is formal and green is the largest casual shirt shape.
77
6. Sleeves and Cuffs
6. SLEEVES AND CUFFS To create a sleeve block you need to know the armhole measurement of the body block you want to use to enable the sleeve to fit into the armhole perfectly. The wider the shoulder = the straighter the armhole = the flatter AND SHORTER the sleeve head. When a design is very fitted the sleeve head needs to be more shaped and higher to fit the armhole correctly. When the shoulder is wider, for casual styles and dropped shoulder styles the shoulder head is straighter as it is looser to the body. Sleeve head measurement is the length from the shoulder point (end of shoulder) and finishes an average of 6.5cm under the XB line. However sleeve head depends as above, on how loose the armhole is on the body. An average sleeve head height is 16.5cm for a fitted sleeve head.
Sleeve Lengths
6. Sleeves and Cuffs
Sleeve Construction
107
7. Collars
7. COLLARS Types of Collars Collars are attached to the neckline of garments. There are four different types of collar construction. The key measurement when making a collar is the neckline. Every collar has a style line – this is the outside edge and can be styled as per design requirements. Collars always have an inside and outside, therefore in most cases cutting TWO of the collar pieces to be able to finish the outside edge (style line). The underside of the collar (the piece that is not seen but supports the topside has interfacing attached to it to give the collar a firmer look.
There are 4 main types of collars –
1.Flat collars - Flat collars sit on/around the neckline, lying flat against the body. The outside edge of the collar is your style line.
2.Grown on collars - This collar is constructed as an extension of the body. Creating the
collar style line (the outside edge) then adding the back neck measurement as a continuation of the break line. Slash and open the back neck measurement to allow the collar to sit flat against the neck. The more you add the fuller the collar will be on the outside edge, eventually creating a frill.
3.Standing Collars - Collars that sit around the neckline and not on the body. Shirt collars,
mandarin collar, standing collars. These can be made as two pattern pieces – a collar stand and a collar fall, or some can be made as a one-piece pattern. When making a standing collar from two pattern pieces the collar FALL must be 1cm larger than the collar STAND. This allows the fall to drape over the stand and the seam will be hidden.
4.Collar with Rever - Rever collars are traditional tailoring collars and can be found on most coats and tailored jackets. They can also be used on shirts.
Collar construction is shown WITHOUT front button stand and closure construction. Unless otherwise indicated. Please refer to Chapter 5 for different types of front openings. Illustrations are shown with a grown on placket.
7. Collars
Measuring the Neckline It is important to measure the neckline accurately to attach a collar in place. This is done by using a tape measure on the side to obtain the back neck, and then front neck measurements. The body blocks neckline is fitted around the neck. For some collars you need to make the neckline bigger first before constructing the collar.
131
1
Information
4
3
Introduction 4
Introduction 68
Measurement Size Chart 6
Knife Pleats 69
Body Measurements 7
Accordion Pleats 69
Abbreviations Index 8
Box Pleats 70
Pattern Making Tools 8
Inverted Box Pleats 70
Ease 9
Sunray Pleats 71
Seams 9
Gathers 72
Hems 10
Two Sided Gathers 72
Notches 10
One Sided Gathers 72
Darts 11
Godets 73
Drill Holes 11
Pleats and Fullness Designs 74
4
Grain Lines 12
Body Blocks
Folded Edges 12
Introduction 76
Zipper Openings 13
Fitted, Formal, Casual Body Shapes 77
Interfacing 14
Fitted Body Construction 78
Blocks, Plans and Patterns 14
Three Body Construction 79
Pattern Making Steps 15
2
Pleats and Fullness
Trousers
Sleeveless Garments 83
16
Sleeveless Body Block 84
Introduction 16
Gilet Construction 85
Trousers Lengths 17
Gilet Designs 86
Trouser Lengths Diagram 17
Quilting Examples 87
Trouser Block Construction 18
Waistcoat Block 88
Jeans Construction 22
Waistcoat Designs 90
Tailored Trouser Construction 28 Fly Front Closure 33
Bib Construction 91
5
Front Openings
Waist Finishes 36
Introduction 92
Straight Waistbands 37
Facing 92
Low Waist Waistband 37
Button and Loops 94
No Waistband finish 38
Zipper Opening 96
High Waistband 38
Plackets 97
Belt Loop Construction 39
Grown On Placket 97
Narrow Leg Trousers 40
Concealed Placket 99
Wide Leg Trousers 42
Separate Placket 100
Twisted Jeans Construction 45
Lip Placket 102
Dropped Crutch Construction 49
Half Placket Opening 103
Fishermans Trousers 53
Double Breasted Opening 105
Trouser Hem Cuff 56 Kilt Construction 59 Mans Skirt 62 Waistband Designs 63 Trouser Designs 64
6
Sleeves and Cuffs
106
8
Introduction 158
Sleeve Lengths 106
Facing 159
Sleeve Construction 107
Neck Binding 161
Three Sleeve Construction 110
Neckline Shapes 162
9
Dropped Shoulder Sleeves 114 Kimono Sleeves 116
Hoods
Raglan Sleeves 118
Basic Hood Construction 165
Sleeve Hems 120
Shaped Hood Construction 166
Sleeve Placket 120
Hood With Gusset Construction 167
Sewing a Sleeve Placket 121
Drawcord Hood Construction 168
Keyhole Finish 122
Pockets Introduction 170
Double Cuff 125
Patch Pockets 170
Cuff Designs 126
3D Patch Pockets 173 Kangaroo Pockets 175
Types of Collars 130
Pockets in Side Seams 176
Measuring the Neckline 131
Side Seam Pocket Designs 177
Flat Collars 132
Tailored Pockets 178
Peter Pan Collar 133
Welt Pockets 179
Sailor Collar 134
Jet Pockets 179
Cape Collar 135
Jet Pocket Construction 180
Grown On Collars 136
Tailored Pocket Sample Designs 181
11
Shirt Details
Standing Collars 138
Introduction 182
Mandarin Collar 139
Shirt Design Details List 182
One Piece Shirt Collar 140
Yoke Construction 183
Convertible Collar 141
Epelet Construction 183
Shirt Collar 142
Shirt Construction Example 184
Double Shirt Collar 143
Yoke Designs 186
Removable top collar 144
Epelet Designs 188
Polo Shirts 145
Side Hem Details 189
Buttoned Polo Shirt Collar 146
Shirt Designs 190
Open Polo Shirt Collar 147
170
Patch Pocket Sample Designs 172
130
Introduction 130
Shawl Collar 136
164
Sample Hood Designs 169
10
Sleeve Cuffs 124
Collars
158
Introduction 164
Sleeve Placket Designs 123
7
Necklines
Introduction 106
12
Jersey Tops
Rever Collars 148
Introduction 192
Rever Collar Terminology 148
Jersey Garment Measurement Guide 193
Rever Collar Construction 149
Fitted Jersey Body Block 194
Double Breasted Rever Collar 152
Loose Jersey Block Construction 195
Rever Collar Designs 153
Vest Body Block Construction 196
Standing Collar Designs 154
T-Shirt Designs 197
Back Collar Designs 156
Sweatshirt Designs 199 Hoodie Designs 200
182
192
13
Jersey Trousers
202
18
Introduction 278
Jersey Trouser Block 202
Tailored Coat Shapes 278
Jogging Bottoms Block 204
Tailored Coat Block 280
Dropped Crutch Jersey Bottoms 206
Tail Coat Construction 286
Elastic and Draw Cord Waist 207
Cape Coat Construction 290
Separate Waist Channel 208 Draw Cord Waist Designs 210
Introduction 298 Tie construction 299
Jersey Trouser Designs 212
15
20
Introduction 214
Introduction 304 Onesie Block Construction 306
Boiler Suit Design 218
Dressing Gown Block 310
Dungarees Design 223
Dressing Gown Designs 313
228
Long Johns 315
21
Grading
Fitted Casual Jacket Designs 231
Introduction 322
Casual Jacket Block - Loose Fit 234
Grading Size Chart Guide 322
Casual Loose Jacket Designs 236
Casual Coats
Grading Body Block 324 Grading Sleeves 325
Casual Fitted Coat Block 239
Grading a Tailored Jacket 326
Casual Loose Coat Block 240
Grading a Two Piece Sleeve 327
22
Casual Coat Designs 241
246
Specification Templates
Introduction 246
Body Specification Template 329 Trousers Specification Template 330
Two Piece Sleeve Construction 250
Jacket Specification Template 331
23
Costing Garments
Jacket Lining 260
Fabric Widths 332
Vents 264
Costing Garments Chart 333
Lining a Vent 266
Fabric Lay 333
Button Sizes 268
Specification Sheet Trousers 335
Bespoke Tailoring Techniques 269
Specification Sheet Tops 336
Hand Basting Canvas 269
Specification Sheet Jackets and Coats 337
Chest Piece 269 Break Line Tape 270
24
Fabrics Cutting Fabric 338
Under Collar 270
Fabric Qualities 338
Shoulder Pads 271
Fabric Classifications 339
Sleeve Roll 271
Natural Fibers Chart 340
Tailored Shoulder Picture 272
Manufactured Fibers Chart 343
Tailored Jacket Designs 273
328
Introduction 328
Tailored Jacket Block Construction 247 Single Breasted Jacket Construction 254
322
Grading Trousers 323
238
Introduction 238
Tailored Jackets
304
Shaped front opening 321
Casual Jacket Block - Fitted 228
17
Loungewear
One Piece Block Construction 214
Casual Jackets
298
Bow Ties 302
214
Introduction 228
16
Ties
Gathered Cuff Construction 211
Boiler Suits
278
Tailored Coat Designs 292
19
Elastic Waist Designs 209
14
Tailored Coats
Introduction 202
332
338
