makeup-handout.pdf

1. Oblong faces (sometimes called "rectangular") are longer than they are wide. They also have fairly similar measurements in terms of cheek, forehead, and jawline. 2. Heart faces are defined by the upside-down triangle shape of their face, which results from having a relatively pointy chin and medium-to-wide forehead and cheek measurements. These faces are generally just a little longer than they are wide at the cheeks (about an inch and a half or less.) 3. Square faces are about as long as they are wide - their cheek and length measurements are within about an inch or two of each other. In addition, the cheek, forehead, and jaw measurements for square faces should be similar - the edges of a square face should be almost straight up and down. A square face's jaw should have clear, sharp angles at its widest corners. 4. Oval faces are similar, proportionally, to an upside-down egg. They are longer than they are wide, with a forehead that is slightly wider than the jawline and a gently rounded chin. 5. Round faces, like square faces, are about as wide as they are long. However, they have a relatively small forehead and a small, curved jawline. If your "cheek" and "length" measurements are within an inch or so of each other, your forehead measurement is smaller than your cheek measurement, and your jawline lacks the sharp angles present on square faces, you have a round face.

6. Triangular faces are the opposite of heart-shaped faces - they're widest at the bottom and skinniest at the top. Triangular faces have long, wide and square jawlines and relatively narrow foreheads. 7. Diamond faces are widest at the cheekbones, with a tapering forehead and a skinny, pointed chin. They are somewhat longer than they are wide. If your cheek measurement is larger than your forehead and jaw measurements and your chin is relatively pointed, your face has diamond-shaped properties.

DIAMOND FACE 

Contour under the cheekbones (as done above for the long face) and lengthen the look of a narrow hairline by “sinking” the center of top and sides of forehead, creating the illusion of a forehead that is as wide as the cheekbones.

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Create a wider looking chin—highlight the outside edges with a small contour in the center.

LONG FACE “Sink” the chin and forehead—dip your setting brush into a powder contour and sweep along the top of your forehead, directly under your cheekbones and the bottom third of your chin.

OVAL FACE 

Define the oval appearance with a slight contour around the perimeter of your face (forehead, temple and jawline). Dip the tips of your buffing brush into a matte bronzer that is slighter darker than your complexion, tap off excess and blend along the temples and hairline with the width of the brush. Once the brush is empty go over the edge with small circular motions for a seamless look.

SQUARE FACE 

Create the illusion of a rounder face shape. After applying foundation over your face, use a cream or liquid foundation (2-3 shades darker then base color) and work onto the lower corners of the jaw with your sculpting brush. Blend into your hairline and down the top of the neck with your setting brush.

ROUND FACE Create the illusion of a more angular face. After applying foundation over your face, use a cream or liquid foundation (2-3 shades darker than base color) and work onto the underside of the cheekbones toward the outer chin with your sculpting brush. Blend out on and under the jawline so the contour blends into your neck seamlessly. Use your setting brush to micro blend the contour edge near the middle of your face.

1. Foundation Brush – used for applying liquid foundation. 2. Powder Brush – used for applying face powder. 3. Blush Brush – used for applying blush powder. 4. Highlighter Brush – used for bronzers and highlighters. 5. Eyebrow Blending and Grooming Brush with Comb – use for blending eyebrow powder and grooming eyebrows. 6. Angled Shadow Brush – used for applying eyebrow shadow. 7, 8, 9. Eye shadow Brushes – used for applying and blending eye colors.

1. Day Make-up – a type of make-up that is light and simple and has natural finish. Make-up color should match with the color of the dress to highlight normal features. 2. Evening make-up – this type of make-up should have a glamorous effect. Shimmering and frosted shades look subtle and beautiful day candle glow. Brighter and darker colors and the use of false eyelashes is often the requirement for evening wear. 3. Photographic make-up – is a type that creates a new look on your face. It helps to enhance the good features and tone down the bad ones. This type of make-up makes you appear more beautiful and glowing in the pictures. 4. Stage/screen theatrical make-up – the purpose of this type of make-up is to produce a cinematic effect. Make-up in this type highlights an actor’s visibility and makes facial features distinctive beneath powerful stage lights. Cosmetics used are much different from other types of make-up. 5. Corrective make-up – a type of make-up that makes the facial defects less conspicuous and emphasized the good features. It highlights and subdues facial feature with the correct shadowing or shading.

Why is rouge important? The purpose of rouge is to give a soft low or color to the face. It aids in creating better facial contour by minimizing imperfect features. Cheek rouge should be the same color as the lip rouge, or a shade lighter if desired – never darker. The color on the cheeks should be less vivid in broad and daylight than in artificial light. Cheek rouge should blend in color tone with the lip rouge. FOUR TYPES OF ROUGE 1. Liquid Rouge – presented today, is an elegant and serviceable cosmetic. 2. Cream Rouge – closely resembles pigmented foundation creams and cream make-up. 3. Dry (compact) rouge – imparts a matt finish. If well formulated, it blends harmoniously with the facial make-up. 4. Brush-on rouge. Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks. Smile as you do this so you can clearly see where the apples are. Dab on the blush and blend upwards towards your temples.  

Try a cream blush for a natural glow that's easy to blend in. If you opt for powder blush, use a brush that's fluffy yet dense. Dust translucent powder over it to blend the edges.

Lip Rouge – serves to color the lips, correct the mouth shape and add charm to the face. The basic shades of lip rouge are blue – red, yellow-red, orange and true-red. It is available in stick, cream and liquid form. Apply lipstick or lip gloss. Pucker your lips like you're about to plant a kiss and dab the lip color to the center of your upper and lower lip. This first application can be straight from the tube; then, use your fingers to blend outwards, adding color with your fingertips as needed.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS: 1. Apply lip balm Dot your lip with lip balm to smooth them and reduce crevices. This will help give you an even application of lipstick. 2. Use a lip liner Choose a color that matches your lips, not your lipstick. Before drawing a line with the lip pencil, begin by dotting it at various points along the outline of your lips. Then, drawing very lightly, use the liner to connect the dots.

3. Apply lipstick Pick up the lipstick and apply the color, starting at the center of the upper lip and moving outward toward one corner. Bring the lipstick back to the center and run it outward toward the other corner. Repeat with the lower lip. To fill in any missing color, dab the lipstick with your pinky, and then dot the color onto your lips with the finger. 4. Blot your lips To blot, which will make lipstick last longer and keep it off your teeth, take a facial tissue and fold it in half. Hold it in two hands, with the fold facing you, then bring it between your lips and press your lips together gently. To make lipstick last even longer, dust a little powder on the tissue before blotting. Tip: Avoid deep reds if you have thin lips. They tend to make lips look smaller.

Curl your lashes. Place a lash curler at the base of your upper eyelashes (along the lid) and press for five seconds. After this, apply mascara. Apply to the upper and lower lashes with the tip of the wand oriented towards the outer corner of your eye. One coat should suffice for this look.

1 Determine where your inner brow should end. Hold a straight edge, such as an eyebrow pencil or a ruler, vertically in front of your face. 

If you want your eyebrows farther apart, line it up so that it touches the outermost of edge your nose and the inside of your eye. If you want your eyebrows closer together, line up the straight edge with one side of the septum. These lines will determine where your eyebrow should start.  Mark that spot with an eyebrow pencil. Repeat for the other eye.

2 Determine where your arch should peak. Angle the straight edge so that it lines up with the outermost edge of your nose and the outermost edge of your pupil.  It's very important that you look straight ahead — both your face and your eyes should be looking directly forward at the mirror.  Wherever the line intersects your eyebrow is where the peak of your arch should begin at the top border of the eyebrow.  Mark that spot with your eyebrow pencil.  Repeat for the other eye.

3 Determine where your outer brow should end. Angle the straight edge further so that it touches the outermost edge of your nose and also passes along the outermost edge of your eye.  This tells you where the eyebrow should end. Mark this point with your eyebrow pencil.  Repeat with the other eye.

4 Draw a line along the bottom edge of your brow. This will determine the brow thickness. 

Follow the natural curvature of your eyebrow.

5 Pluck the strays that fall below the line and outside the marks you've made.    

Your eyebrows should be 1/4 - /1/2 inch (0.5 - 1 cm) at their thickest. Pluck minimally above the brow — you want to retain your brow's natural arch. Only tweeze stray hairs. If plucking isn't your thing, try shaping without it. If your brows are sensitive, use ice to numb the areas before you tweeze.

1 Choose the right foundation color. As the name implies, your foundation is the basis for the rest of your makeup. To make sure that it acts as a blank canvas, choose a foundation that identically matches your skin tone. Try multiple shades of foundation on your face (rather than your hand or your neck), and stick with the color that matches your skin tone without blending.

2 Decide on a medium. Foundation comes in varieties of mediums and textures, including loose powders, compact powders, creams, liquids, and aerosols. All the variety can seem daunting, but really doesn’t change much except for the application of the makeup. Visit the makeup counter at a local department store and try on versions on each to determine which feels the most comfortable and looks the most realistic on your skin.

3 Get the right tools. There are three primary means of applying foundation: with your fingers, with a sponge, or with a brush. Although there is debate between which is the best means of application, there are benefits to each. Putting on your makeup with your fingers allows for better blending, while applying it with a brush helps keep the spread of bacteria (and therefore acne) to a minimum

4 Prep your face. Foundation glides on most smoothly with a clean, well moisturized face. Wash your face with a gentle face cleanser, and follow up with a facial moisturizer. Wait five minutes for the lotion to set before applying your foundation.

5 Put on your pre-foundation makeup. A slight contradiction, foundation isn’t actually the first makeup you apply. Add a primer to your face, which is a clear gel that works to smooth out your skin and seal in imperfections. Some people also choose to apply their concealer prior to putting on their foundation, although this can be applied afterwards as well.

6 Put on your foundation. Regardless of whether your foundation is a liquid, cream, or powder, it should be applied first in the center of your face. Add a few dabs to either cheek near your nose, your chin, and a bit on your forehead.

7 Blend your foundation with your selected tool. Use your tool of choice to blend your foundation around your face. There shouldn't be any noticeable lines where your foundation starts or ends; it should blend smoothly into your neck and hairline. Prevent your foundation from being too thick by spreading it out. Otherwise, your face will look cakey and fake, rather than airbrushed and lustrous.

8 Touch up on difficult areas. If you do have particularly uneven skin in certain areas, acne, dark spots, or under-eye circles, use your foundation to touch up on these areas. Use a concealer brush to apply foundation more heavily on these spots. Make sure to blend it in well to prevent dark or orange dots on your face.

9 Finish up on your foundation. If you haven’t yet already apply concealer to troubled areas on your face. Finish up your entire face by applying your foundation with setting powder. This is a translucent, matte powder that helps prevent your foundation from sliding around while preventing oil build up from showing through.

Apply an eye shadow of your choice to your eyelid. For beginners, try a single neutral shade like taupe or aubergine. Use a rounded shadow brush or your finger and make quick, short swipes across the lid, working your way up to the brow bone.   

The shadow should go from your lash line to just beyond the inner crease. From there it fades upward toward the bone. Set with a thin dusting of translucent powder. If you're using a brush, tap it lightly on the side of the eye shadow case to remove any excess.

BEST DAY LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shade across entire lid. 2. To add depth and make eyes pop, apply a medium shade to outer corner. 3. Using a dark shade, line upper and lower lash line.

BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shade across entire lid, from lash line to brow bone. 2. To contour and add definition, apply medium shade in a V-shape along upper lash line and crease. 3. Emphasize outer corner of eye with dark shimmer shade.

4. BEST DAY LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shade across lid, up to crease. 2. Apply a medium shade to outer corner of upper and lower lash line. 3. Using a dark shade, line upper lash line, extending out and up at outer corner to elongate width of eye. 4. BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. Apply a dark shimmer shade close to upper lash line and diffuse upwards. 2. Sweep medium shade across crease. 3. Line entire upper lashline with black shade to emphasize your round eyes.

BEST DAY LOOK: 1. To enhance the lid surface, divide eye in half vertically and apply a light shade to the inner half. 2. Apply a medium shade to outer half. 3. Line outer corner of upper and lower lash lines with a dark shade. BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. Apply a light shimmer shade to lid and inner corner. 2. Line upper and lower lashlines with a medium shade and diffuse. 3. To even out proportions, line outer corner of eye with a dark shimmer shade, diffusing outward.

BEST DAY LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shade across lid and inner corner. 2. To lift outer corners, apply medium shade to outer crease. 3. Line outer corner of upper lash line with dark matte shade.

BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shimmer shade across lid. 2. Apply medium shade to crease, blending upward. 3. To enhance outer corner, line entire upper lash line with a dark shade, diffusing upwards at outer corner.

BEST DAY LOOK: 1. Sweep a light shade across entire lid. 2. To create the look of a crease, apply medium shade above lid and contour. 3. Line upper lash line with a dark matte shade to emphasize and define the eye. BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. Sweep a light matte shade across brow bone. 2. To maximize large lid space, apply a medium shimmer shade to entire lid. 3. Line upper lash line with a dark shade, diffusing upward to create definition.

BEST DAY LOOK: 1. To enhance visible lid space, sweep a light shade across entire lid. 2. Blend a medium shade to crease, diffusing upward. 3. Line upper lash line with a dark matte shade, blending upward. BEST NIGHT LOOK: 1. To give the eye more prominence, apply a light shade to brow bone and inner corner. 2. Apply medium shade across entire lid, blending upwards above crease. 3. Line upper lash line with dark matte shade, diffusing upwards at outer corner for added definition.

Apply eyeliner. Use a black or brown pencil and apply along the rim of your upper lash line in short strokes.  Lift your upper lid with one hand and look down into a mirror as you apply with your other hand.  Eyeliner is one of the areas that you can really experiment with as you become more confident applying makeup. Factors like color, texture, and line application can have a big impact on the appearance of your peepers. Play around!

For ALMOND EYES:

For ROUND EYES:

For HOODED EYES:

For MONOLID EYES:

For CLOSE-SET EYES:

For WIDE-SET EYES: