Lucerne in Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Lucerne April - June 2016

Top of Lucerne Famous mountains, stunning views

Hurray for summer! Lake cruises, swimming and open-air bars

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Contents

Arrival & Getting Around

5

Get your bearings

City Basics

7

Facts, habits, attitudes

History

10

Once upon a time

Culture & Events

11

Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Summertime

Summer means swimming in the lake, e.g. here at the Ufschötti. Read all about Lucerne’s summer hotspots on p. 14. Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

14

Swimming, sunbathing, summer bars

Quick picks

Sightseeing 15

Lucerne in a nutshell

Restaurants

16

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafés

Churches, museums and city tours

Old-town stroll

33

Mountain peaks

34

Of cogwheel railways and cable cars

22

Chocolate, coffee and conversation

Nightlife

27

Lucerne for kids

37

Major fun for minor citizens

23

Bars, pubs and clubs

Shopping

38

Local delicacies and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

42

Where to find the one you’re loooking for

Daytrips

42

Mountains, monasteries, museums

Hotels

48

From cream of the crop to down to earth

Maps & Index Pilatus, towering far above the lake, is one of the many mountain peaks to visit around Lucerne. See p. 34 for more! Robert Bösch/Luzern Tourismus

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51 52-53 54

Index City map Public transport map

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 April - June 2016

3

Foreword  The changing of the seasons seasons is always something something to enjoy. As we write, the days are finally getting longer, it’s getting warmer and all over Lucerne the trees are coming out in delicate greens and the flowers are blossoming.

Publisher pocket publishing GmbH Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76 [email protected] switzerland@inyourpocket .com www.inyourpocket.ch

But things fresh and new are not only appearing in the natural world! In the world of In Your Pocket   something fresh, bright and beautiful has also burst open this spring: our new smartphone app City Essentials (to download for free, just scan the QR code on the cover). It puts the essence of our city-guide expertise at your fingertips. With its concise selection of the best venues and sights in Lucerne and maps that work offline, it’s a trusty little companion on your way through town.

Published 3 times per year, 90 000 copies ISSN 2296-8598 © pocket publishing GmbH 2016 Editorial office Lucerne Lucerne In Your Pocket, Kasimir-Pfyffer-Str. 18, 6003 Luzern [email protected] Editors Kathy Editors Kathy Bajaria & Chris Young Young Research Lukas Research Lukas Füglister Layout & Maps Tomáš Maps Tomáš Haman, Photos For Photos For photographers see photos, Cover © Cover © iStock.com/Jolkesky

Another measure of the changing of the seasons in Lucerne can be seen on the mountain ranges around the city – the snow line creeps upwards as the weather gets warmer. Many of the peaks you see can be easily reached and are definitely worth a visit (see our mountain peaks chapter p. 34). But don’t let the exhilarating views and other natural charms absorb you totally. With architecture spanning many centuries, a lively music scene, great restaurants and leafy summer hangouts, Lucerne also has cultural delights of every sort.

Sales & Circulation General Manager Lukas Manager Lukas Füglister Sales Kathy Bajaria, (+41) 41 544 07 58, [email protected] Ad rates at rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, www.inyourpocket.ch, closing date next issue: June 22, 2016 Copyright notice & Editor’s Editor’s note  Text and maps copyright copyrig ht pocket publishing GmbH. Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner.  The brand name In Your Pocket   is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).  The editorial editor ial content of In Your Pocket  guides  guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

COVER STORY Our cover shows a bird’s eye view of Lucerne looking south-east, with Spreuer Bridge (p. 28) in the foreground and the Alps on the horizon. You don’t have to become a bird to get the view though, you can just climb one of the towers of Musegg wall (p. 28).

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Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Essentials. Featuring only handpicked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend.  The app - available available on both iOS  and  Android   - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app  iyp.me/app  on your smartphone to download it.  To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket , follow us on Facebook  (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter  (twitter.com/inyourpocket). lucerne.inyourpocket.com

 Arriving & Getting Around Around  ARRIVING BY PLANE PLANE Lucerne is easiest to reach from  from  Zurich International Airport (ZRH)  (ZRH)   which has by far the most international connections compared to the two alternatives EuroAirport Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN). Zurich airport handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at arrival 1 and arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi-fi for the first 2 hours, just connect your device to ‘ZurichAirport’ ‘ZurichAirport’ and follow the instructions in your browser. Direct trains to Lucerne leave Lucerne  leave Zurich airport every hour and take 62 minutes, trains that take just 5 minutes longer leave inbetween (change train at Zurich HB). The train station is actually within the airport, on level -2 of the airport centre, where the main shopping area and check-in 3 are. Train tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms.

 ARRIVING BY CAR CAR

An arch of Lucerne’s old train station, in front of the new one. Emanuel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus

 ARRIVING BY TRAIN TRAIN Lucerne’s main train station is right in the centre of town, with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town  just a few minutes’ walk walk away. International and domestic connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will find ticket offices, the  the  tourist information  information   as well as shopping. Buses and taxis leave just in front the station. Of the suburban train stations, the one at the Transport Museum (Verkehrshaus ( Verkehrshaus)) is most likely to interest you. At the  the  ticket office  office  in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public transport in Lucerne and also change money. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).

 ARRIVING BY BUS BUS  Though there are not a huge number of long-distance bus connections from Lucerne, you can travel to several destinations in Italy, Croatia and southern France . Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the east of the main train station, near the lakeshore. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

 The Swiss motorway A2 connects Lucerne to the Gotthard and Italy to the south and Bern to the north, nor th, the motorway A14 comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive. For overnight parking you can try finding a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. In car parks parking costs approx. 20 - 50Sfr a day. Driving in Switzerland  Switzerland   is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol stations and post offices). Remember that pedestrians on zebra-crossings without traffic lights always have right of way, as do trams. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times.  The legal alcohol limit for limit  for drivers is 0.05%, which should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.  The standard speed limit is limit is 50km/h in urban ur ban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than French, French, English, Italian or Ger man it is recommended that it be accompanied by an international one.  April - June 2016

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 Arriving & Getting Around Around BICYCLES Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and in nice weather it’s a good option for visitors too.

NEXTBIKE � BIKE SHARING Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up bikes at any one of the 60 locations in town around the clock, either by calling the hotline or using their app or website. When you enter the bike’s number in the app, it gives you the number code for the bike lock - and off you go. Fees are charged to your visa or mastercard. Before you can start you need to register online.Qtel. (+41) 41 50 80 800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an hour, 20Sfr/24h.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAINS  The punctual punctuality ity of trains trains in Switzer Switzerland land is legendary legendary.. You can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Lucerne there are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least once an hour.  The state state owne owned d train train compan companyy is calle called d SBB. SBB. For For time time tables tables refer to www.sbb.ch. www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold on vending machines and at the counters in Lucerne main train station. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare. If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. Or get a Swiss Travel Pass which Pass which is valid for all kinds of public transport (210 - 440Sfr, depending on duration) and free entry to many museums (www.swisstravelsystem.com). For travelling in central Switzerland consider buying a Tell Pass, especially if you plan on headint to different mountain peaks. See p. 36 for details. If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr. CITY TRANSPORT Lucerne’s public transport network includes buses and local trains. trains . The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucerne’s regional network is divided into zones. You don’t buy

RFTaxi.ch Kriens - Luzern

+41 41 320 18 18 6 

Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

Lucerne train station is as well organised as the whole train network.

LIYP 

tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is zone number 10 (see 10 (see map p. 54) which includes all of the city and part of the agglomeration (like Kriens or Littau). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on buses and local trains. As a visitor zone 10 is most probably all you’ll need, as all the sights and even the bus ride to the valley station of the cable car to popular Mount Pilatus is within this zone. A day pass for zone 10 valid for a calendar day costs 8Sfr (half-fare 6Sfr), a single ticket valid for 1 hour 4Sfr. Children under 6 travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually is 3Sfr). Short distance tickets for up to 6 stops within half an hour are 2.50 (no half-fare). All these tickets can be purchased with cash or credit cards at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (switch to English on the first screen). If you get caught without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For For all questions about public transport, get advice at the Lucerne City Transport (VBL) sales points at the main train station or at the bus stop Schwanenplatz. City transport in Lucerne runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses  buses  called nachtstern (www.nachtstern.ch) in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to the surroundings (like Kriens or Littau) which leave at the main train station. The tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can be bought from the driver only. Day passes and any other tickets aren’t valid.

TAXIS  There are around 500 licenced licenced taxis in Lucerne Lucerne and in general they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following maximum fees for taxis taxis:: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr, waiting time 66Sfr per hour. Most companies charge the maximum (exceptions: RF  Taxi,  Taxi, initial fee 5Sfr, 5Sfr, McTaxi, McTaxi, inital fee 4Sfr, 4Sfr, 3.40Sfr/km). Taxi Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is rare. Two pieces of hand luggage are free, suitcases, dogs and extra hand luggage can be charged at 1Sfr/piece. You’ll find taxis at official taxi stands at the train station, at Schwanenplatz, behind Hotel National and in other places. You can hail them from the streets as well. Here are some companies if you want to order a taxi: taxi : RF Taxi, Taxi, (+41) 41 320 18 18, www.rftaxi.ch.QA McTaxi, McTaxi, (+41) 76 577 66 55, www.mctaxi.ch Taxi Hess, Hess, (+41) 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch www.hesstaxi.ch lucerne.inyourpocket.com

City Basics DRINKING

BASIC DATA  Area Switzerland: 41285 sq km Lucerne (canton): 1493 sq km Lucerne (city): 29 sq km Population Switzerland: 8.0 million Lucerne (city): 84,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Lucerne: German Local time Central European (GMT+1h)

 The drinking  The drinking age in age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses  (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers (in Lucerne you‘ll usually find Eichhof, which now belongs to the Dutch Heineken breweries) are increasingly increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Luzerner Bier, Lozärner Bier (yep, not the same) or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best may come from further south, you‘ll find some very good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the Lucerne region. Traditional Swiss spirits are spirits are fruit brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.

CUSTOMS

ELECTRICITY

Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following  following   customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities):

Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Hz  AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries. In modern hotels you might find multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor at the reception or buy one in a traveller’s or electronics shop.

Tobacco: 200 Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.

EMERGENCY

Alcohol: 1 Alcohol:  1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods:  goods:  Max. value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving air travellers as well.

Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Firebrigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical centre (Permanence, see p. 8) for all kinds of consultations at the main tran station. The The emergency unit at the hospital is always open.

HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN Lucerne’s hospital has a 24h emergency walk-in service. Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station.QA-1, Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. (+41) 41 205 11 11, www.luks.ch. Open 24/7.

LUZERN OR LUCERNE?

A perfect day to take to the lake!

iStock.com/Krasnevsky 

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What’s in a name? If you look for the destination Lucerne on a timetable, you might wonder if the place has gone missing! But no fear - the German spelling is Luzern. That is standard German however: in dialect it’s Lozärn, but now we’re getting a bit advanced. The simple math is: Lucerne = Luzern.  April - June 2016

7

City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The The ‘r‘ ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. Hello (formal)

Grüezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

 Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorr y!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgüsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

D’Schwyz

(chviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Lucerne

Lozärn

(Lo-tsaern)

work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, socalled Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem.

PERMANENCE MEDICAL CENTRE  This medical centre in the underground shopping area of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when you arrive, you’ll then probably have to wait a while. It’s useful to have the details of your health insurance with you. QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 211 14 44, www.permanence-luzern.ch. Open 365 days, Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00.

PHARMACIES

LOST & FOUND

 The pharmacy ( Apotheke   Apotheke  in German) with the longest opening hours is Benu in the underground shopping area of the main train station. It is open Mon - Sat 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 ((+41) 41 220 13 13). If you are in urgent need of medication outside these hours contact (+41) 900 11 14 14 (3.23Sfr/min.).

If you’ve lost your hat, your handbag or something else, you might have a happy reunion at the lost & found, fundbüro in German. It’s located at the police station at Hirschengraben 17b (B-4), tel (+41) 41 248 86 66, open Mon - Fri 09:00 12:00, 13:30 - 17:00. If you might have lost your item on a train or at the train station, also try the lost & found at the station.

INTERNET & WI-FI Surfing the internet over the mobile network can be very expensive when you’re abroad, due to the roaming charges. Luckily, most hotels and many cafés, bars and restaurants offer free Wi-fi. And in the city centre around the station, at the lakeshore and Löwenstrasse there is a  a   free Wi-fi. Wi-fi. Simply search for the network luzern.wlan on your device and open a browser. After you enter your phone number you will get an access code which will allow you to surf for an hour for free. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city. You can subscribe to their services on the start page you get on your browser once you connect to their hotspots - all you need is a credit card. Prices start at 5Sfr per day.

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 The KKL, KKL, the masterpiece masterpiece by by French French architect architect Jean Jean Nouvel. Nouvel. KKL Luzern

MAIL & PHONE Post Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all over the city - the university post office just next to the train station has long opening hours (see below).

MARKET VALUES Loaf of bread

2-5Sfr

(€1.85 - 4.70)

Cup of coffee

4-7Sfr

(€3.70 - 6.55)

0.3 litre of beer (bar)

4-7Sfr

(€3.70 - 6.55)

Public transport ticket, 1 hr

4Sfr

(€3.80)

LANGUAGE

Packet of cigarettes

8Sfr

(€7.50)

Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at

McDonald‘s Big Mac

6.50Sfr (€6.05)

Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 The Swiss Swiss natio national nal bank has abandone abandoned d its its policy policy of tying the Swiss Franc to the Euro. Currently the exchange rate is quite stable at around 1.09 Sfr to the Euro. lucerne.inyourpocket.com

City Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 2 February 23, 27 & 28, 2017 April 14, 2017 April 17, 2017 May 5, 2016 May 16, 2016 May 26, 2016 August 1 October 2 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year Berchtold Day (local) Carnival (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Ascension Whit Monday Corpus Christi National Holiday St. Leodegar's Day (local) All Saint's Day (local) Christmas St. Stephen's Day

Dialling Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Lucerne’s code is (an additional!) (0)41. We list the country code before all telephone numbers in brackets. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) country prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.

POSTSTELLE UNIVERSITÄ UNIVERS ITÄTT One of Lucerne’s post offices with the longest opening hours. QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.

MONEY  The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your money at UMC Change, Change, Habsburgerstr. Habsburgerstr. 11 (+41 41 211 00 50) or at the SBB change at the train station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

the understanding of political independence political independence many  many locals favour, favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa and border agreement.

SAFETY Lucerne is generally a safe city, and there is no no-go area, even for single traveller at night. Of course crime exists, and be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

SMOKING  The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly accessible buildings buildings and public transport is generally illegal in Switzerland. In Lucerne however, if restaurants and bars are under 80 sqm, they can opt to be smoking venues and quite a few do so. We We mark them with X.

TOURIST INFORMA INFORMATION TION TOURIST INFORMATION Lucerne Tourism’s tourist information office is in the building of the main train station, but is accessible from Zentralstrasse, outside the station.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, fax (+41) 41 227 17 20, www.luzern.com. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00, in April 08:30 - 17:30, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

 VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

POLITICS  The Swiss Swiss like to consider consider their country the home of direct democracy and democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. governments. Bern is the capital and capital  and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Afternoon chill-out at the Inseli.

Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus Tourismus

 April - June 2016

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History LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME XVI – XVII Century Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne, however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy, and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy, in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595.

PROFITS FROM THE WAR BUSINESS XV – XIX Century Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young Swiss men who were sent to fight for France, Spain, the Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca. 1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne area to serve abroad – and the city of Lucerne only had a population of around 4000 for most of that period! While While a few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come back at all and the well connected families who brokered the deals were the ones who benefited most.

Leodegar, Lucerne’s Lucerne’s patron saint on the d oors of the Hofkirche. iStock.com/aimintang

THE ‘CITY OF LIGHT’ EMERGES Stone age – IX Century Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a few traces, Lucerne doesn’t emerge out of the darkness of history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned in documents, which may mean ‘place of light’ – it is a popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint Leodegar, who is the town’s patron saint, and the houses at either end of the bridge across the River Reuss.

NAPOLEON AND THE BEGINNING OF TOURISM XVIII – XIX Century In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. After a return of the old powers, Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state was founded. In 1859 modernity reached reache d Lucerne in the shape of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne had a new industry – tourism. The lake, the easily accessible mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of people who could afford to travel for pleasure. Many of the grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were built towards the end of the 19th century.

 A TRANS-ALPINE TRANS-ALPINE TRADE BOOM XII – XVII Century Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the town’s hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major commercial centre. The The trade across this Alpine pass mainly connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, M ilano, and boomed right up until the 17th century.

 ALLIANCES WITH WITH THE ‘FOREST COUNTIES’

MODERN-DAY MODERN-DA Y LUCERNE LU CERNE

XIII – XIV Century Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically unproblematically under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne entered a pact with the three waldstätten or ‘forest counties’, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne (or the Vierwaldstättersee, the ‘lake of the four forest counties’, as it is known locally). This military alliance was slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the precursor of the modern Swiss state. 10  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

XX - XI Century In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 28) by architect Jean Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the second largest – after Basel – and loudest Swiss carnival and the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014.  

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Culture & Events Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a life,  a packed programme of excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for electronic music, pop, jazz, metal etc. We list the most important venues in the venue list and refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories classical music, exhibitions & fairs, festivals and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date.

27.05 FRIDAY

LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA LSO: COCKAIGNE Conductor: James Gaffigan, violin: Sergey Khachatryan. Works by Frederick Delius, Delius, Jean Sibelius, Henry Purcell and Edward Elgar.QKKL. Concert starts star ts 19:30, 25-110Sfr. 08.06 WEDNESDAY & 09.06 THURSDAY THUR SDAY

LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA LSO Conductor: James Gaffigan, piano: Khatia Buniatishvili. Works by Johannes Brahms, Ludwig van Beethoven and Antonín Dvorák.QKKL. Concerts start 19:30, 25-110Sfr.

Of course there are far more events than we can list. We recommend checking out kalender.null41.ch for more events (Only in German, click ‘Veranstaltungen’ on the left and the button marked ‘Stadt Luzern’ on the right).

CLASSICAL MUSIC 01.05, 08.05, 14.05, 19.05, 29.05, 31.05 12.06, 15.06, 17.06

OPERA: IL VIAGGIO A REIMS Opera by Gioacchino Rossini. In Italian with German supertitles.QLuzerner Theater. Shows start 19:00 / 19:30 / 20:00. June 12,13:30. Tickets 35-120Sfr.

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 The Württemberg Württemberg Philharmonics will come to Lucerne. Lucerne.

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20.05 FRIDAY & 21.05 SATURDAY

11.06 SATURDAY

21ST CENTURY SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA & CHOIR: BATMAN � LIVE IN CONCERT

CARMINA BURANA: WÜRTTEMBERG PHILHARMONICS

 The 21st Century Orchestra performs the soundtrack of the movie Batman live, the movie is shown in English with German subtitles. Conductor: Ludwig Wicki. QKKL. Concerts start 19:30, 40-150Sfr.

Conductor: Markus Oberholzer. Classic Festival Choir, soprano: Carmela Konrad, tenor: Joaquin Asiain, baritone:  Thomas Gropper. Gropper.QKKL. Concert starts star ts 19:30, 65-155Sfr.

FESTIVALS LUCERNE VENUE LIST KKL QEuropaplatz

1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch.

KUNSTMUSEUM LUZERN Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 78 00, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch. www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch. QC-4,

LUZERNER THEA THE ATER  Tickets  Tickets under under +41 +41 41 228 14 14 14, ticket ticket office office opens opens 1h before the evening performances.QB-4, Theaterstrasse 2, uBahnhof, www.luzerner-theater.ch.

SCHÜÜR Folk, rock, metal - lots of big names play here. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

13.05 FRIDAY � 15.05 SUNDAY SUN DAY

DAS TANZFEST TANZFEST �DANCE FESTIVAL� FES TIVAL�  This is a festival for dance - but you do the dancing (or you can). The exciting concept combines openair dancing opportunities (on Saturday May 14 from 11:30 on the pedestrian squares and parks in the city centre), Swiss and international dance performances and dancing classes over three days. So whether lindy hop or ragga get your feet moving, or it’s tango or ballet that you love - there’ll be something for you. Many events are at Südpol, but not all. Qwww.dastanzfest.ch. 24.06 FRIDAY � 25.06 SATURDAY

LUZERNER FEST During the Luzerner Fest the whole town comes out to party. Dozens of bands and DJs play on outdoor squares and venues around the lake basin. And then there’s the magnificent firework display over the lake! If you buy one of the festival badges, your money goes to charities in the Lucerne region.Qwww.luzernerfest.ch.  April - June 2016 11

Culture & Events 16.06 THURSDAY � 18.06 SATURDAY

B�SIDES FESTIVAL  This cosy, authentic open-air music festival doesn’t doesn’t go fishing for the big names. Instead, they’ve put together a programme of bands that slots together nicely. There will be indie like the German  German  The Notwist , the accordionist Mario Batkovic and electronica from Kamikaze. Kamikaze. The festival’s idyllic location just on the forest’s edge offers great views of the mountains and the lake. Apart from different stages, there are bars and food cooked on site. To get there take a bus to Kriens, Busschleife and from there get the funicular to Sonnenberg KSB. Transport back to town after the concerts is provided for. for.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, uSonnenberg KSB, www.b-sides.ch. 1-day pass 50Sfr, 3-day pass 120Sfr.

EXHIBITIONS & FAIRS 27.02 SATURDAY � 27.11 SUNDAY SUN DAY

COLLECTIONNEURS Stefan Zweig, himself a passionate collector, said that ‘collectors are happy people’. But is that really true? Are collectors not also a bit driven? Is their most important piece not the very one that is missing from their collection?

BOURBAKI

Collectors are happy people, aren’t they? One of the questions raised at the Collectionneurs exhibition. Marc Latzel 

Be that as it may, the Kunstmusuem Luzern has received an extensive donation by a collector couple from Geneva which has specialised in Swiss art since 1960, such as John Armleder, Philippe Decrauzat, Sylvie Fleury, Alain Huck and Carmen Perrin. In this presentation works from the private collection and those from the collection of the Kunstmuseum Luzern will enter into a rich and varied dialogue. Given the parallels and differences, the exhibition raises issues concerning public and private collecting. QKunstmuseum Kunstmuseu m Luzern. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed Wed 10:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. From June 11 to August 11 open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 15/12/6Sfr. 29.04 FRIDAY � 08.05 SUNDAY SUN DAY

LUGA � CENTRAL SWITZERLAND’S BIGGEST FAIR

 The Bourbaki Bourbaki is a cinema cinema - but but it’s much much more more than that, it’s a lively cultural crossroads. When you walk into the Bourbaki you’ll immediately notice the circular layout - the generous Bourbaki bar/bistro is bar/bistro is arranged on a huge wooden floor-ring around the central column.  The bustling bustling but relaxed atmosphere atmosphere make this a great place for a cup of coffee or a glass of wine before a film, or at any other time of the day. They also have sweets, snacks and a small choice of meals. Go upstairs and you’ll find the Bourbaki panorama (see panorama (see p. 30) - built in 1889 it’s the reason for the circular layout. The panorama is a kind of 19th-century precursor to the cinema, and absolutely worth a visit. Go down the stairs to find the four cinema screens, screens , where mainly studio films are shown, including many Swiss productions. The ground floor is also home to the kunsthalle luzern, luzern, an art museum which focuses on provocative, contemporary art, showing international and Swiss artists. QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 99 99, www.bourbakipanorama.ch, www.kinoluzern.ch. 12  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 The fair Luga takes place on the Allmend. Discover what more than 450 exhibitors from all different sectors of the economy have on show on ten crazy days. There is a fun fair with fun rides and lots of food stalls and the like - a real, traditional-style fair!QMesse Luzern, Horwerstrasse 87, uAllmend, www.luga.ch. www.luga.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, fun fair 11:00 - 24:00, Mon & Tue 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 15/10Sfr.

ROCK, POP & JAZZ CONCERTS For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music venues’ on p. 25. 30.04 SATURDAY

DELILAHS  This Swiss girl rock band celebrates its 10th anniversary with a wild show with guests and friends. They have played over 500 concerts, making themselves a name as a great live act all over Europe. QSchüür. Concert starts 21:00, 25Sfr.

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Culture & Events 04.05 WEDNESDAY

CINEMAS

DESERT MOUNTAIN TRIBE  Two  Two years ago the London trio Desert Mountain Tribe Tribe published their first EP. Now they have completed their first album: modern psych- and space-rock, densely packed with a lot of reverb reminiscent of the Godfathers. Insanely good!QSchüür. Concert starts 21:00, 20Sfr. 13.05 FRIDAY

CLOSE TALKER TALKER & THE RAMBLI NG WHEELS Close Talker   is a young indie rock trio from Saskatoon (Canada). Their songs consist of catchy melodies, harmonies and straight rhythms. The Rambling Wheels are a very succesful Swiss rock band. Sounds like a good mix for a night of guitars and rock n’ roll!QSchüür. Concert starts 21:00, 20Sfr.

Lucerne has five cinemas. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But unfortunately more and more films are being dubbed. Particularly in smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language - lots of them in English of course. Edf  in  They are marked marked with the letters lettersEdf   in the programmes (E nglish nglish with German (D (Deutsch) and F rench rench subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. Check www.cineman.ch for programme and screening times. Tickets Tickets cost between 13 and 18Sfr. On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.

CAPITOL  The Capitol shows a wide range of films, from studio to hollywood, from thriller to comedy on six screens. Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on www.kitag.ch or by phone on +41 900 556 789. By phone the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QC-5, Zentralstrasse 45, uBundesplatz, www.kitag.ch. www.kitag.ch.

STATTKINO Independent operator showing studio productions at the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 30 60, www.stattkino.ch. Serious rock for over ten years: Delilahs.

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13.05 FRIDAY

LOS FASTIDIOS | SKASSAPUNKA  These two Italian bands are bringing some serious streetpunk and ska to Lucerne. Get ready for some pogo dance!QSedel, Sedelhof 2, uGopplismoosweg, tel. (+41) 41 420 63 10, www.sedel.ch. www.sedel.ch. Concert starts 20:00. Shuttle bus from Löwenplatz.

JAZZ & FUNK AT LOUIS BAR

04.06 SATURDAY

SHANTEL & BUCOVINA CLUB ORKESTAR  Trumpets,  Trumpets, accordion and electronic beats give Shantel’s Shantel’s Gipsy-Balkan-electro mix unbelievable drive. He’ll be performing with his brass orchestra. QSchüür. Concert starts 21:30, 35Sfr.

SPORTS 27.05 FRIDAY � 29.05 SUNDA SUN DAY Y

LUCERNE REGATTA �ROWING WORLD CUP� Lucerne’s second lake, the Rotsee, offers ideal conditions for rowing competitions. The Lucerne Regatta is a major event, and you can watch from the grandstand set up on the shore. Tickets are free, except for seats on the main grandstand on Sunday. Take the bus N°1 from the train station to Weggismatt, just 7min.QRotsee, www.lucerneregatta.com. Standing area always free, seats on Sun 40Sfr (non-numbered seats), 60Sfr (numbered seats). facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

At Louis Bar in the Hotel Montana there are regular  jazz, funk, piano and soul concerts (usually with free admission). The atmosphere here is somewhere between mondaine and relaxed, and if you’re into this kind of music you definitely should treat yourself to a night at the Louis Bar. If you happen to be a whiskey lover (or if you like cigars), even better. On Thursdays there is always a jam session (21:30).QE-2, Montana Art Deco Hotel, Adligenswilerstrasse 2, uCasinoPalace, www.hotel-montana.ch. www.hotel-montana.ch.  April - June 2016 13

Summertime Summertime ...and the living is easy.  The living definitely does get easy in summer, when life in Lucerne goes outdoors. A grand summer day is of course ideal for visiting a mountain peak or exploring the lake region, but Lucerne itself has plenty of urban summer easiness to offer. Bars and restaurants make the most of it with outside seating, and a few bars are real summer animals, coming out only when it’s warm. Daytime temperatures are generally around 25°C (77°F) in July and August, and can at times go over 30°C (86°F). The rain mainly comes in föhn-storms - which come thunderstorms - the so-called föhn-storms from the south across the lake and can be quite violent. Otherwise, the lake is the favourite place to be and it’s so clean you can swim in it - and everybody does (swimmers only!). We list a few highlights below.

Quite a sunset at Sunset bar.

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up paddling) board. For the little ones there is a covered paddling pool and playground, all very family-friendly. Changing, (solar heated) shower and locker facilities are available and refreshments too. Check the website for info about outdoor yoga, pilates classes and various other special events over the summer season. Another more offthe-beaten-track tip to cool off is the Waldschwimmbad Zimmeregg surrounded by the forest on the outskirts of Lucerne (Schwimmbadstrasse, www.zimmeregg-badi.ch). QWarteggstrasse, uWartegg, tel. (+41) 41 360 45 67, www.tribschen-badi.ch. Opens May 8, 2016. Open in May 10:00 - 19:00, June - August 10:00 - 21:00. 5/3Sfr, children under 6 free.

OPEN-AIR BARS & SWIMMING PLACES SEEBAD  This wooden bathing bathing house originally originally opened in 1885 and underwent a full refurbishment in 2010. It is a wooden structure stretching out into the lake with two shallow pools - but most people choose to take the stairs at the far end into the open lake with stunning Alpine views.  There is a small restaurant serving snacks, drinks and ice cream. They also offer massages. At 20:00 they close for bathing but remain open, with a relaxed bar vibe. QE-2, Nationalquai, uCasino-Palace, Casino-Palace, www.seebadluzern.ch. www.seebadluzern.ch. Usually open from May 10:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 20:00, bar/restaurant until 00:30. Admission 6/4Sr, free after 20:00. NKW

SUNSET BAR  This summer bar located over over the road from Hotel Seeburg is something of a lakeside oasis. Get comfortable in a chair, a hammock, a double bed (!) or with your feet dangling above the water on the pier, take a deep breath and relax in this chic outdoor hangout. It’s the perfect place for an after-work cocktail or two. They also offer a good selection of virgin cocktails or our personal favourite beverage on a hot day, a bitter orange gazosa (Italian-style lemonade). If you are hungry, there is a simple barbecue menu with burgers, homemade bratwurst and salads. QSeeburgstrasse 53-61, uHotel Seeburg, tel. (+41) 41 375 55 55, www.sunsetbar.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 14:00 - 24:00 (weather dependent).

NEW STRANDBAD TRIBSCHEN Close to where Richard Wagner used to reside, Tribschen Badi   is away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Lucerne but still within walking distance or a short bus ride from the main train station. Relax on the green lakeside lawn with trees offering shade on hot days and enjoy easy access to the lake, surrounded by great views of the prealps. If you want more action, then you can play some beach volleyball, table tennis or rent a canoe or SUP (sta nd

BOAT RENTAL BOAT RENTAL �ST. NIKLAUS SCHIFFGESELLSCHAFT� Ready to put your captain’s cap on? Here you can rent boats for an adventure on Lake Lucerne. You can take to the lake with pedal power on a humble pedalo which makes a great bathing platform. platform . You You can also rent rowing boats, dinghies and yachts and motorboats motorboat s here. Depending on the craft you will need to prove you have the necessary qualifications - apart from the captain’s cap.QC-3, Schwanenplatz, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 369 08 08, www.sng.ch. Pedalo 30/35Sfr per hour, motorboats 60/65Sfr per hour. 14  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Quick picks Eat

Drink

Do

Extrovertly Swiss and very likeable, Wirtshaus Taube (p. 21) serves solid and     l imaginative Swiss fare, like    a    c chicken and carrot meatloaf or    o     L cream-cheese and cress soup.  The historic interior interior is a treat too. too.

As soon as the weather allows, Lucerner like to move their drinking outdoors. And what could be nicer than enjoying the long, mild summer evenings on the lake shore in one of the relaxed open-air bars. See p. 14 for suggestions.

Swimming in Lake Lucerne is Lucerne is hugely popular with locals. In many countries, lakes and rivers in urban areas are too polluted to swim in – but luckily Switzerland cleaned up its act around 30 years ago and the water is clean and safe.

La Mannagia (Weinmarkt Mannagia (Weinmarkt 9, B-3) take -away joint that gets    p is a little take-away    a its recipes and inspiration from    e     h    c Italy and southern Switzerland.    e     h Grab pizza,  piadine or whatever    t    n takes your fancy and find a     O bench in the shade for an al fresco lunch.

 The cheapest drinking drinking is outdoors with with bring-your-own. bring-your-own. Drinking alcohol is allowed in public spaces, so when it's warm, settle down by the lake, e.g. lake,  e.g. at the Ufschötti (see map B-5). You can buy your booze at the train station until 22:00, e.g. at Coop or Drinks of the World.

Nearly all of the sights Lucerne is so famous for are free! You can see the Chapel Bridge, the Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge and Bridge and the Lion Monument without paying a penny (p. 27/28).

 The riverside restaurant restaurant Wirtshaus Reussfähre (p. Reussfähre  (p. 21) has solid Swiss food, fair prices, some wines sold by the glass     d    n and a jukebox! Sounds good for    a    s a night out with your friends,     d    a doesn't it?     L

Looking for a good You can do the game of footie? Look no steamship cruise further than The Bruch tomorrow (p. 28) Brothers (p. Brothers (p. 25). Apart – or when you're from Bundesliga and old. Instead get a Swiss football they show Premier boat where you're the captain – you league and others. When the match is can rent a pedalo or another boat over, over, electric guitars take over. over. at SNG (see p. 14).

If you're looking for something which feels just a little like    s a fairy tale, the    e     l    p Burgerstube    u    o (p. 20) is recommended. Add the     C kitchen's finesse finesse and you've got all you need for a perfect per fect evening with your loved one.

At Karel Korner (p. Korner (p. 23) they’re sure to have the cocktail your loved one likes best. Be it a Basil Smash, or a Devils Juice – whatever she or he prefers, the bartender will definitely be up to it. Order one for yourself and enjoy the night together!

Why not pamper yourself and your loved one with a spa treatment? Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 48) offers anything from simple neck massages to chocolate and coconut full-body peelings for guests and external customers. Or try the rosepetal bath for two t wo with champagne included.

At restaurant RED (p. RED (p. 17) at the KKL, chef Pascale     d Kreuzer blends    n    e French, Asian and     h    g     i local inspirations effortlessly, e.g.     H sashimi variations or aged local cheeses and roast duck. Excellent cuisine in an exquisite atmosphere!

If you're a whisky connaisseur, you have to put the Louis bar (p. bar (p. 13) on your must-visit list. But even if your not a lover of the smoky spirit, this cultivated Art-Déco hotel bar with views of the lake and frequent concerts is an exquisite place to spend an evening.

Since its opening in 1998 the KKL (p. 28) concert centre has become a magnet for stars of the classical music scene. You scene. You can often hear the likes of Bartoli, Mutter, Järvi or Schiff here. No wonder, with the exceptional acoustics of the concert hall.

Lozärner Chügelipastetli! You might not be     d able to say it, but    e    t you might still    c    e    p like to try this culinary speciality    x    e of Lucerne. Basically a meat pie, it    n     U is a puff-pastry cup filled with little sausage-meat balls (chügeli ) and sometimes innards (sweetbread) in a creamy sauce.

 The 'beach club' is the roof-top terrace bar at bar  at Hotel Montana (p. 48).  The name could be a little more subtle, but the terrace itself is phenomenal, with a full bar, a whirlpool, semi-private sofa units for four (reserve!) and a stunning view. Open from May 13.

Cable cars are quite impressive pieces of technology – but usually you're just interested in getting up to the peak. The cable car up to Stanserhorn (p. Stanserhorn  (p. 36), however, is a case apart. If offers an absolutely breathtaking upper deck where you can travel under the open sky. Truly impressive.

   s    e    s    s    a     l

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 April - June 2016 15

Restaurants Lucerne’s chefs have more to offer than Swiss classics or the Lucerner chügelipastetli . Lucerne culinary class goes from tasty take-aways to exquisite fine dining. You can also find food from many parts of Asia, Europe and the Americas, while many other places take their inspirations from a wide variety of regional cuisines. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. Prices are indicated with the € icons - € -  € indicates most mains are under 25Sfr, €€ mains 25 - 40Sfr, €€€ mains 40 - 55Sfr, €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr. This 55Sfr.  This applies to the evening menus, for lunch many restaurants offer special cheaper deals (on workdays). Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this guide.

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

E Live music

N No credit cards

S  Take  Take away

C-1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop B Outdoor seating

the price. Kaiten also serves a selection of other Japanese dishes and desserts. QB-5, Kauffmannweg 16, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 210 42 40, www.kaiten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Thu & Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 17:00 22:00. Closed Sun. €€. A

FINE DINING 1871

Rich hospitality for well over a century: restaurant 1871

 This lakeside restaurant located in Hotel National (the restaurant is named after the year in which the hotel was first opened) offers a modern fine-dining experience in a grand five-star hotel, whilst at the same time it manages to remain down to earth creating a relaxed atmosphere. Its focus is on simple dishes made with the finest local seasonal produce and the menu changes every two months. Aside from dinner, they also offer good value lunch menus and brunch on Sundays. The food is good but the highlight is the location: enjoy your food in the charming high-ceilinged French Renaissance dining hall or on the ground level terrace overlooking Lake Lucerne. QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 422 18 71, www.1871.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. AB

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 ASIAN GOURMINDIA Located underneath the Gütsch castle on transcultural Baselstrasse, this spacious restaurant serves up delicious authentic Indian cuisine. Proof comes in the form of the Indian tourist groups who feel at home here when they eat upstairs. The tandoori dishes and naan baked in a traditional Tandoor clay oven are wonderful, portion sizes in general are generous and the service is friendly. They also offer great value lunch buffets. QBaselstrasse 31, uGütsch, tel. (+41) 41 250 43 43, www.gourmindialuzern.com. www.gourmindialuzern.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 22:00. €. A

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN TIBITS Finally there is a purely vegetarian restaurant with several vegan options in Lucerne! They have very successful restaurants in other Swiss cities and in London and now have their branch in Lucerne. It’s located inside the train station, on the first floor, overlooking the tracks and the hustle and bustle. But the focal point of tibits is the bounteous vegetarian buffet - around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups and sweets await you here. Round it off with a freshly squeezed juice or a beer if you prefer and enjoy the amazing food they make with purely vegetarian or even vegan ingredients. QC-4, Zentralstrasse 1 (inside the station), uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 18 88, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 06:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Food served until 30 minutes before closing. €€.

KAITEN SUSHI�BAR Landlocked Switzerland may not be the most obvious place to seek out sushi, but if you are in that mood then this fine restaurant with a focus on quality fish from environmentally sustainable partners will not disappoint you. Kaiten sushi   means conveyor belt sushi in Japanese. You pick and choose dishes off the belt depending on your preferences and appetite.  The  Th e colo co lour ured ed ring ri ng on the th e plat pl ates es you choo ch oose se indi in dica cate te 16  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Restaurants NEW RESTAURANT RESTAURANT RED RE D On the first floor of the architectural masterpiece which is the KKL, RED has a decidedly modern and elegant interior: leather chairs, a thick red carpet, white table cloths and carefully placed, low lighting. The view over the lake and city is delightful, if somewhat dissected by the horizontal metal fins of the facade. Chef Pascale Kreuzer is a master of his trade who blends French, Asian and local inspirations effortlessly. On his menu you might find sashimi variations, aged local cheeses or roast duck with coriander and beetroot dumplings. Exquisite! QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uLuzern Bahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 71 10, www.kkl-luzern.ch. Open Mon - Fri 11:30 to 13:30, Wed - Sun and on event nights from 17:00. €€€. A

 True to its name: restaurant RED and its warm colours.

KKL Luzern

INTERNATIONAL JEFF’S BURGER

FRENCH BRASSERIE BODU  This charming French brasserie, wine bar and cafe in the old town is a local favourite. In summer they have a small terrace with a few tables overlooking the River Reuss and set out more tables in the cobbled square by the town hall. The menu includes mussels, entrecôte and duck as one would expect, with an accompanying seasonal menu and plenty of fine wine.QB-3, Kornmarkt 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 01 77, www.brasseriebodu.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, kitchen open throughout. throughout. €€. AB

You may be forgiven for thinking you are in Soho or Brooklyn, the concept of quality burgers in cool surroundings has now arrived in downtown Lucerne. It’s a strange mix between fast food and quality ingredients (you can upgrade to Swiss angus beef) and the burgers really look just like in the advertisements. This is a place where you might go on a date, but you could just as well roll up to relieve a hangover.QC-5, Hirschmattstrasse 29, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 10 15, www.jeffsburger.ch. Open 11:30-14:00, 17:30 - 22:30, Thu 11:30 14:00, 17:30 -23:00, Fri & Sat 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€. A

  W GETTING THE BEST OUT OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant Bar Take Away Catering Lucerne train station, first floor | www.tibits.ch | ww w.tibits.co. w.tibits.co.uk uk |

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 April - June 2016 17

Restaurants DECODING THE MENU General terms Käse panier t Pfeffer Salz Zucker

cheese breaded pepper salt sugar

Fleisch Braten Bratwurst Chögelispastetli Kalb Lamm Poulet, Hühnchen Rind Schnitzel Schwein Ghackets Geschnetzeltes

Meat roast sausage puff pastry with meat sauce veal (or calf ) lamb chicken beef   cutlet, often breaded pork mince meat meat in bite -size pieces

Fisch Egli Forelle Felchen

Fish European perch trout common whitefish

Beilagen Bratkartoffeln Kartoffeln Nudeln Pommes Frites Spätzli Speck

Side dishes roast potatoes potatoes pasta french fries, potato chips egg noodles bacon

Dessert Apfelstrudel (Scho (Schoko kola lade den) n) Kuch Kuchen en  Tiramisu

Desserts apple pie (cho (choco cola late te)) cake cake Italian cream dessert

A cosy setting for Italian food, Barbatti.

ITALIAN BARBATTI ristorante with white tablecloths, wooden A classic Italian ristorante with furnishings, furnishings, candles and chandeliers under a high stuccodecorated ceiling. ceiling. It exhibits sculptures sculptures by local artist Rolf Brem and offers fine traditional Italian cooking with an olde worlde ambiance. It also runs a separate tiny, rather bizarre espresso bar on the corner, with delicious Italian coffee and a view over the main pedestrianized shopping street.QC-2, Töpferstrasse Töpferstrasse 10, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 13 41, www.bindella.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. Kitchen closes one hour earlier. €€.

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NEW PORTOFINO Portofino, named after the fancy Italian fishing village  just south sout h of Genoa, Gen oa, is yet another anot her Italian Ita lian restauran resta urantt in the Lucerne old town. The restaurant is small and personal, run by friendly hosts Mercedes Valladares und Daniel Schmitter. The food from the concise menu is freshly prepared - including the pasta! Two goodvalue business lunch menus are available each day carte. The food and in the evening it switches to à la carte. was delicious and well presented and the ambiance calm and classical, a little on the expensive side. QC-2, Töpferstrasse 5, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 26 64, www.portofino-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€. AB

WEISSES SCHLOSS

MEDITERRANEAN

 The White Castle has a charming ambience. On a warm evening take a seat on the terrace, where you can sit beneath vines in a fine al fresco atmosphere, where you hardly notice that you are between bet ween two roads. The menu is creative although a touch pricey, serving up both European and Asian classics with some fusion dishes, such as the seared lake char with wasabi and potato mash. QB-5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. (+41) 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. €€. AB 18  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

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BARBÈS  This relaxed, cosy, candlelit restaurant serves up authentic Moroccan mezze as well as main dishes. It makes fantastic fresh peppermint tea and is also a place where you can enjoy a glass of wine at the bar in the evening and soak up the atmosphere. They also offer lunch menus during the week.QB-5, Winkelriedstrasse 62, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 00 90, www.barbes.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30, closed Sun. €. N  

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Restaurants FELSENEGG GARTEN RESTAURANT A true gem of a restaurant. Charismatic host Franco will welcome you in, whilst Domenico prepares mouthwatering dishes for your delight. The fresh daily menus are written on the black board, Italian-style ( just one meat, fish and vegetarian menu available), you can decide if you would like to take all courses or to select specific dishes. In summer you can eat in the garden behind the restaurant and you quickly forget that you’re in a city. Definitely call in advance to book a table as it is often booked out. They also offer great value lunch menus.QC-2, Maihofstrasse Maihofstrasse 4, uSchlossberg, tel. (+41) 41 420 10 13, www.felsenegg-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 23:00. Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. AB

NEW SYRTAKI GREEK TAVERN  The only greek eatery in town, Syrtaki has stood the test of time and has been serving traditional favourites moussaka  and gyros  gyros  since 2002. This such as souvlaki , moussaka  family-run establishment offers good value two-course lunch menus and in the evening a range of à la carte options. Decor is typical taverna style, white tablecloths on the closely bunched together tables and plenty of greenery. You can round off your greek experience with a metaxa, good for digestion they say.QC-4, Morgartenstrasse Morgartenstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 94 94, www.syrtaki-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A

Cultured delights at Restaurant RED Creative and modern cuisine with 15 GaultMillau points. Monday to Friday, 11:30 to 13:30 Wednesday to Sunday and event evenings from 17:00. Reservations: +41 41 226 71 10, www.kkl-luzern.ch

is a restaurant for meat lovers serving specialities such as Ribeye US Dry Aged 30 or Tomahawk US Dry Aged (order by weight), Pata-Negra pork chops from acornraised black Iberian pigs, lamb racks or sausages. Sides of chips, polenta, potato gratin and various vegetables can be ordered separately. To the right is the bar with smaller tables and behind the bar is a cigar lounge and the wine degustation area. Here you can try the wine and take the one you choose back to your table.QC-5, Habsburgerstrasse 16, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 210 10 07, www.ampersand.lu. Open 11:00 - 00:30, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€€.

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SWISS CUISINE

On the way to the rather lovely garden at Felsenegg.

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STEAKHOUSES NEW AMPERSAND Ampersand is the word describing the latin symbol &.  The name comes come s from the fact that this location locat ion is a café & a bistro & a grill & a wine bar & a cigar lounge. It boasts a fresh urban look. To the left as you enter is the restaurant with an open kitchen, an open beechwood fire and grill and a glass maturing cabinet for meat. This facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue  (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to! Raclette  is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst   (usually veal) and cervelat  (pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne specialities is Lozärner Chügelipastetli , basically a meat pie, it is a puff-pastry cup filled with little sausage-meat balls (chügeli ) and sometimes innards (sweetbread) and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list of Swiss traditionals is rösti, a cake of grated and fried potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an impressive range of breads to go with the famous cheeses, e.g. the rich  zopf   (plaited loaf) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise  and fondue bourgignonne  are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.  April - June 2016 19

Restaurants SWISS

CHEESE REST RESTAURANTS AURANTS

As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine p. 19), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue raclette, see the box on the left. and raclette,

iStock.com/assalve

raclette,  The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, originally come from the French speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. Even though locals mainly eat these dishes during the cold time of the year, we definitely recommend trying them whatever the season - the listed restaurant below is a specialist.  The traditional rustic interior at the the Burgerstube.

FONDUE HOUSE

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BURGERSTUBE �HOTEL WILDEN MANN�

Fondue House is located inside Hotel Falken and is a good place to taste your way through everything fondue-like. The combo menus give you three fondues in one meal - choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in oil), chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread, potatoes, sauces and more are served to dip and as sides. Not exactly authentic, as Swiss don’t mix fondues like this, but if you want to try everything in one go, this is your opportunity. The combos are not cheap, however. QB-3, Falkengasse 4/6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 37 37, www.fondue-house.ch. Open 17:30 - 22:00. €€. AB

Not a burger parlour, this is in fact the place to come if you are looking for good traditional Swiss cuisine with a modern twist. The cosy candlelit, rustic interior makes you feel like you have gone back in time. The menu mixes Swiss classics such as bratwurst , cordon bleu and the Lucerne speciality chügelipastetli  (see   (see ‘decoding the menu’) with more experimental dishes such as the poached scallops in an elderberry sauce or a mixed spring salad with dandelion, red radish and sugar peas served with rhubar byogurt dressing. Something for both the nostalgic and the curious.QA-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, www.wilden-mann.ch. Open 10:30 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€.

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Dine in a historical setting. Classic, nourishing – and ever-changing. ever-changing. Restaurant Sauvage and Burgerstube.

Floating restaurant anchored on Schweizerhofquai, Luzern tel. +41 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch 20  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

www.wilden-mann.ch

 

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Restaurants STADTKELLER  The Stadtkeller Stadtkeller in the heart of the old town stages a Swiss Swiss folklore show. In the rustical surroundings you can enjoy surprisingly good Swiss cuisine to a show presenting various Swiss traditions such as yodelling, Swiss Alpine horn blowing and flag waving. At one point members of the audience are invited up on stage to try out the various customs. Few Swiss people practice these traditions these days, but the show is nonetheless good fun and relaxed.QB-3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 47 33, www.swissfolkloreshow.com. Lunch show starts 12:15, duration approx. 1h, dinner show starts 20:00 (music 19:30), approx. 1.5h, restaurant opens 18:30. Admission show and lunch 54 - 65Sfr / dinner 72 - 82Sfr. AK

WILHELM TELL �SCHIFFRESTAURANT�  The Wilhelm Tell, Tell, named after the mythical Swiss national hero, is a retired paddle steamer moored just past the Hotel Schweizerhof. Step on board for a drink and sandwich on deck, descend into the hold for a cosy dinner or adjourn to the captain’s salon in original Art Nouveau design for the four-course dinner. The kitchen produces Swiss standards like schnitzel , deep fried battered pike-perch and a seasonal menu including local beef, fish and a varied selection of vegetarian dishes. The food quality is good, but the atmosphere and the views are what you come for here. QC-3, Schweizerhofquai, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch. www.schiffrestaurant.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00, Mon closed. €€. AB

Sternenplatz 3 CH-6004 Luzern Telefon +41 41 410 47 33 Fax +41 41 410 61 33 [email protected] www.stadtkeller.ch

WIRTSHAUS GALLIKER  The Galliker family has run this old-style Swiss tavern for over 150 years and recipes have been passed down over four generations. This is the place where Swiss people go to eat traditional Swiss food, from rösti to luzerner chügelipastete  chügelipastete  (veal with a creamy mushroom sauce served in puff pastry) and in autumn they serve up delicious game dishes. Fine soul food and friendly service from the waiting staff make for a fine local experience. QA-4, Schützenstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 10 01. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00, closed Sun & Mon. €€. A

NEW WIRTSHAUS REUSSFÄHRE  This relaxed relax ed riversid rive rsidee restauran resta urantt is almost almo st 120 years year s old and oozes down-to-earth charm. Settle down on the terrace for a glass of wine in the afternoon or call in for some dinner in the evening. There is a small menu with Swiss specialities such as lamb’s lettuce salad, steak tartare, rösti  or cordon bleu at fair prices and a good selection of wines by the glass or bottle. Don’t forget to drop 2 Sfr into the jukebox and pick out five favourite songs. QSentimattstrasse 14, uKreuzstutz, tel. (+41) 41 240 27 98, www.reussfaehre.ch. Open 10:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun, Mon. €€. AB

WIRTSHAUS TAUBE

Full steam ahead to dinner: Wilhelm Tell restaurant. restaurant.

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Your first glance at the menu might have you wondering what strange language it’s in, but it’s just Swiss German. Friendly as they are here, they’ve added English below (and standard German!). The menu’s inspiration is thoroughly Swiss too, but it’s far more imaginative than the typical Swiss repertoire. Besides the Lucerne speciality veal dumplings in a puff pastry pie, the heart of the menu are the meat patties, in variations with Alpine cheese, herb liquor or mushrooms. Two are even vegetarian!QA-4, Burgerstrasse 3, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 07 47, www.taube-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, closed Sun, except in July and August. €€. AB  April - June 2016 21

Cafés Coffee culture in Switzerland is heavily influenced by Italy, and many of Lucerne’s bars and cafés are equipped with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafés specialise on coffee, tea and sweets, but in many you’ll get meals, snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and cafés is not a strict one.

ALFRED CAFFEBAR  This  This tiny tiny Italian Italian café café on the street street corner corner offers offers Italian-s Italian-style tyle espresso at the bar. Alternatively you can take a seat at one of the few tables outside (or inside if you prefer), take a deep breath and relax. This calm space specializes in quality barista-made barista-made coffee. For those with an empty stomach, it offers homemade soup of the day and tramezzini sandwiches made with local produce. QB-6, Bleicherstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, www.alfred-caffebar.ch. Open 07:00 19:00, Thu & Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Seebistro Luz, flooded with light.

NEW CAFETERIA ARLECCHINO  This cult café in the heart of the new town opened in 1962 as a café and gallery in one of the oldest concrete buildings in the city. Run by a collective since 1977 it is one of the most pleasent places one can relax in. Alongside the snacks and cakes it serves up homemade muesli, freshly squeezed juices, soups at lunchtime and breakfast on Sundays, all at fair prices. You can also call by for an afterwork beer or aperitif and it is one of the few remaining places which sell single cigarettes. Every two months a different artist displays their work on the walls and there is a sheltered terrace out front looking over the street.QB-5, Habsburgerstrasse Habsburgerstrasse 23, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 64 41, www.facebook.com/cafeteria.arlecchino. Open 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00.

CAFÉ DE VILLE �SCHWANEN�  This  This clas classy sy Frenc renchh-in influ fluen ence ced d Art Déco Déco café café and and rest restau aura rant nt situated on the first floor by Schwanenplatz on the lakeside, provides a variety of international newspapers for guests to enjoy. The high ceilinged rooms and parquet floors only add to the charm. Take a look out the window and enjoy the picture postcard views of Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi and the other Alpine foothills foothills or on summer days sit out on the terrace. It offers business lunch menus during the week and a fabulous Sunday buffet brunch which includes sashimi. QC-3, Schwanenplatz Schwanenplatz 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 41011 77, www.cafedeville.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. €€.

JAZZKANTINE

BREAKFAST

 The Jazzkantine was opened as an initiative initiative of the Lucerne  jazz school school in 1997. Since Since then it has become a staple in the old-town café scene. At street level it is a café and simple restaurant with wooden furnishings in the style of a Dutch brown cafe, in summer you can sit outside. Downstairs they have a venue, used primarily for jazz concerts but also the occasional performance or club night. It is popular among locals, has a down-to-earth atmosphere and is renowned for its fine coffee. QB-3, Grabenstrasse 8, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 73 73, www.jazzkantine.ch. www.jazzkantine.ch. Open 09:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun.

Sunday breakfast is an institution institut ion in many Swiss families.  Zopf  is   is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety variet y of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli   in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli , made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many takes on the müesli-theme.

LUZ SEEBISTRO If you find yourself at the main train station with some time on your hands, this is a fine place to hang out. Walk out of the front of the station and straight ahead to where the public boats on Lake Lucerne depart from. You will see a glass structure sitting on the water and that is Café Luz. Soaked in daylight during the day and lit by a grand chandelier at night, this is a bustling place. They have a terrace on the waterside and some seats and a barbecue grill on the station side, serving BBQ specialities such as Swiss sausages and halloumi cheese sandwiches.QC-4, Bahnhofplatz Bahnhofplatz (Schifflandungsbrücke (Schifflandungsbrücke 1), uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 68 72, www.luzseebistro.ch. Open 08:00 22:00, Thu Thu - Sat 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Here come some of our favourite breakfast places:

ART DÉCO HOTEL MONTANA,  an elegant buffet brunch option with an impressive range of hot and cold dishes and all-you-can-eye views of the lake. Sunday 11:00 - 15:00, 69Sfr, children under 12 pay 4Sfr/ year of age, see p. 48.

LUZ SEEBISTRO, a lovely quiet spot right on the lake with a small breakfast menu with all the essentials like chocolate buns, small buffet until 11:00, see overleaf. 22  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Nightlife Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This Switzerland. This means it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest. Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there’s something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the flipside dive into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You’ll also find pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take your pick. As many bars don’t take cards, it’s a good idea to have cash handy!

CASUAL BARS BAR BERLIN A small bar tucked away behind the Gewerbehalle off  Baselstrasse, an area which is slowly but surely developing into the Lucerne offbeat party mile. This small and cosy bar has a kitsch flair and hosts DJs and concerts on Friday and Saturday nights whilst serving up old world cocktails. A smoking bar which can get lively at weekends. QLädelistrasse 6, uGütsch, www.facebook.com/ BarBerlin. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 02:30, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 03:30. Closed Sun. X

SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

X Smoker lounge

K Restaurant

A-1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

with homemade and carefully chosen ingredients. Our favourite is the Gin Basil Smash but there are plenty of others to try such as Devils Juice (Tequila Reposado, lime  juice, agave juice, tabasco, Mozart chocolate bitters) or the Smokey Pepper (10 year old Talisker, lemon juice, homemade pepper juice, homemade apricot syrup, Peychaud bitters and champagne). Once in a while they have a guest mixer behind the bar, bringing his or her own concoctions. The decor is fine, but but it is creative recipes you come here for.QB-5, Winkelriedstrasse 30, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 210 03 70, www.karelkorner.ch. www.karelkorner.ch. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Thu - Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A

NACHBAR

Waiting for the cocktail hour to start at Karel Korner.

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A little bit chic, a little bit casual, this is a great place if you are looking for a slightly older crowd (30+). It becomes lively after work and on weekends.  The long lo ng room roo m has ha s a taste ta steful ful woode woo den n inter int erior, ior, dimmed lighting at night and is connected to the Weisses Schloss restaurant next door. It serves Luzerner Bier on tap and has a good selection of wine and cocktails. There are occasional DJ sets on the weekend, though as background music - this is more of a bar for drinking and talking. Q B-5, Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. (+41) 41 227 00 00, www.weissesschloss.ch/en/Nachbar. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:30, Sat 16:00 - 01:30, Sun closed.

ST.MAGDALENA ST.MAGDALENA BAR AND REST RES TAURANT Known as s’Magdi to locals, this is the oldest bar in Lucerne and has been serving for over 200 years. Today it is still very popular and offers a restaurant bar upstairs, serving Spanish and Mediterranean comfort food. It shows films on Monday nights and offers a home to various exhibitions by local artists. There is a smokers bar at street level, which is famous for it’s carajillos (Spanish flamed espresso with schnapps).QB-3, Eisengasse 5-7, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 42 78, www.magdalena.ch. Bar open 15:00 - 00:30, Thu 15:00 - 01:30, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 00:30. NKX

CLASSY BARS NEW KAREL KORNER  This new cocktail cocktail bar is not cheap but you can rest rest assured that you will be served a classic or innovative cocktail facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

CASINO GRAND CASINO LUZERN 250 slot machines with sky high jackpots and the table games American roulette, black jack, punto banco and poker await you in the city’s very own casino. For your physical well-being well-being there are bars in the gambling area as well as the restaurant Olivo within the premises. The casino has a smokers’ section. To get access you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed (jeans ( jeans are fine, but no sportswear) and carry a valid passport, European ID card or European driving licence.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uHaldensteig, tel. (+41) 41 418 56 56, www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 05:00, table games start 16:00, Sat & Sun 14:00. Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr.  April - June 2016 23

Nightlife QUEER LUCERNE  The  Th e atmo at mosp sphe here re in Lucer Luc erne ne is refre re fre shin sh ingl glyy open op en,, relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005 local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It is common to see same-sex couples holding hands and showing affection in public. Each November the weeklong Pink Panorama film festival, festival , now in its 14th year, shows gay and lesbian films from around the globe. Local collective Queer Office (queeroffice. Office  (queeroffice. ch) host bi-annual festivals addressing taboo themes affecting the community and seek to create a safe space and platform for crossgenerational and -cultural exchange. There are few queer bars as such in Lucerne, but regular parties taking place at various locations around the city e.g. Kopfkino hosts parties at  Treibh  Trei bhau aus, s, the th e soun so und d is usua us uallllyy elec el ectr tron onic ic and an d the th e atmosphere open. The next party is on May 21, check www.facebook.com/kopfkino.ch.

Die Kneipe, where a chat at the bar comes easily.

 ALTERNA  AL TERNATIVE TIVE BARS ALPINEUM KAFFEEHAUS BAR Located just metres from the famous Lion Monument, this bar’s interior has natural elements like a stone brick wall but with a modern design and offers both indoor and outdoor seating. It serves drinks in the evening and breakfast and creative lunch menus earlier and is popular with a young alternative / hipster crowd of Lucerne creative types. t ypes.QC-2, Denkmalstrasse 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 77 424 90 98, www.facebook.com/alpineum. Open 08:00 - 00:30, Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. NKX

FRIGAY NIGHT �AT THE LOFT CLUB� On the third Friday of every month, this popular commercial monthly gay night is now in its 11th year. House, chart, r’n’b and mashup music keep the dancefloor full. Drinks are fairly expensive. QD-2, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof, www.frigaynight.ch. Every third friday of the month, 23:00 - 05:00. Admission 15 Sfr.

NEW HAIFISH BAR It may have switched location over the years, but now as then it is usually a relaxed place to hang out without pretension. Bar manager Jan has worked in establishments across the city over the past years and is putting together a lively programm, be it live music, DJ’s, art exhibitions or table football. Check out the facebook site for the latest information on upcoming events.QB-5, Obergrundstrasse 17, uPilatusplatz, www.facebook.com/haifishbar. Open 17:00 - 00:30. Thu & Fri till 02:30. Sat 19:00 - 02:30. Closed Sun.

QUEERBAD �AT NEUBAD�  This weekly gathering each Tuesday Tuesday at the Neubad bar is open to all queers and friends of all ages and backgrounds. As there are no gay bars as such in Lucerne, local collective Queer Office decided to set up a weekly hang out for people to meet and chat.QNeubad, Bireggstrasse 36, uSteghof, www.queeroffice.ch. Open Tue 20:00 - 23:00.

E NX

PUBS & TAVERNS

PEPERONCINI OBERGRUND

NEW DIE KNEIPE

 Try one of the Peperoncini Pepero ncini’s ’s local loca l cocktail cockt ail creations, creat ions, for example the Swiss kiss (passoa, passionfruit juice and rivella) or a more classic Manhattan. Leather sofas, stools and high tables fill the darkly furnished room of the bar on the ground floor, giving a relaxed fresco  seating surrounds the but chic feel. Covered al fresco  peninsula-style building; grab a seat on the quieter side if you can. In the basement there is a pizzeria with a wood-fire oven, but you can eat upstairs in the bar too. There is a second branch on the other side of the train station at Rösslimatte 41 QB-6, Obergrundstrasse 50, uPaulusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 20 00, www.peperoncini.ch. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. BW 24  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

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kneipe  (roughly a “pub”) is run by  This newly opened kneipe  two locally renowned publicans Irene Bergmans and Claudia Egli, continuing the trend in the Bruchquartier of women-led establishments (see Chez Cassis, CupCake Cafe and Piccolino). A café by day and bar by night, it offers homemade gourmet soups and salads and if you are lucky a free small taster plate with your after-work drink. The golden brick walls, wooden furniture and stylish lighting make for a cosy place to meet friends for a drink or two. QA-4, Klosterstrasse 5, uHirzenhof, tel. (+41) 41 541 50 15, www.die-kneipe.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. N  

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Nightlife THE BRUCH BROTHERS Here is the Lucerne version of a sports (especially football) pub. A little cosier than a typical sports bar, though dark with limited daylight, they show football matches from the Champions League, English Premier League, German Bundesliga, Italian Serie A, the Primera Division from Spain and of course the Swiss Superleague featuring the mighty FC Luzern. After the final whistle has blown, the music starts and the place transforms into a rock bar, with DJs, concerts, open-mic nights and occasionally karaoke. k araoke.QA-3, Baselstrasse 7, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 53 00, www.bruch-brothers.ch. www.bruch-brothers.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 02:30, Fri 17:00 - 03:30, Sat 14:00 - 03:30, Sun & Mon closed.

CLASSICAL DANCING Classical dancing has its afficionados in Lucerne, though they may not always be so easy to find. The venues and events we list below should give you a head start. For tango events also check the website www.luzdetango.ch and click on ‘Tango Agenda’ and then ‘Tango Kalender’ (in German, but quite comprehensible). SALSA

SALSA 59 Every Tuesday, Bar 59 becomes the sizzling centre of the local salsa scene. The DJs play salsa and Latino, and there is also a dancing instructor for beginners. QC-6, Bar 59, Industriestrasse 5, uBrünigstrasse, www.bar59.ch. Every Tue from 20:30 - 00:30. TANGO

BESITO MILONGA  This tango school offers courses during the week, but Friday nights are milonga practica. Great, Grea t, if all you want to do is dance!QA-3, St. Karlistrasse 4, uBrüggligasse, tel. (+41) 78 765 58 80, www.tangostudio.ch. Every Friday 20:45 - 01:00. Fewer parties in summer, check website. Admission 10/5 Sfr. All ready for some rock’n’roll roll at Bruch brothers.

PD

DANCE BARS NEW BROOKLYN CLUB AND LOUNGE �RENAISSANCE LUCERNE HOTEL� Following a redesign, this dance bar recently reopened with a new look: leather sofas, raw brick and urban chic, a kind of faux “rundown” style. DJs play mainly house music, you can reserve seating in the lounge in advance and there are often cheap drink offers on Thursdays. It may aspire to the dynamism of Brooklyn New York, but as it still t ries to fill the venue with ‘Ladies Nights’ (free entry and drinks before midnight for ‘ladies’) it could seem to be lagging behind the times a little. Isn’t what makes Brooklyn exciting the thrilling swirl of gender identities? QB-4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 87 87, www.brooklyn-luzern.ch. www.brooklyn-luzern.ch. Open Thu - Sat 22:00 - 04:00. 04:00.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES Lucerne offers all kind of live music:  jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more.  You will find a band playing somewhere nearly every night of the year, but the weekends are busier. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell what you can usually expect. For their daily programme, check the websites.

SCHÜÜR �KONZERTHAUS� An old wooden barn seven minutes’ walk from the train station plays host to local bands and international acts.  The likes of Coco Coco Rosie, Rosie, De la Soul, Maceo Parker Parker and Anthrax have all played here. Concerts take place upstairs. Downstairs there is a bar with a popular salsa night on  Thursdays  Thursdays..QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. EN

TREIBHAUS

CLUBS CASINEUM Embedded within the Neo-Baroque lakeside Grand Casino building, Casineum is made up of three different spaces.  The main hall, the gallery overlooking the main hall and the more minimalist club room. The program includes jazz concerts, improvisation theatre battles and club nights later on the weekends.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uCasino, www.casineum.ch. Open Fri & Sat 22:00/23:00 - 04:00, occasionally events & parties on Thu & Sun. Admission 15 - 20 Sfr. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

 Treib  Treibhaus haus is a cultural centre, centre, bar and live venue. venue. It is in part funded by the city to allow for young people to get engaged and gather event-organizing experience.  The diverse diverse gig program program is primarily primarily focussed focussed on alternative music featuring upcoming local, national and international acts. Aside from events, the bistro bar is open with regular lunch menus during the week and panini in the evening and on weekends.QF-6, Spelteriniweg 4, uWeinbergli, www.treibhausluzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, Thu & Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 02:30, Sat 18:30 - 02:30, closed Sun & Mon.  April - June 2016 25

Nightlife KLUB KEGELBAHN Klub Kegelbahn is part of the new party mile between Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz. The former bowling hall is now a meeting place for music lovers. The club owner likes good music, whether it be jazz, northern soul, dub or electronic beats.QA-3, Baselstrasse 24, uGütsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Thu 21:00 late (in winter only), Fri & Sat 23:00 - late.

ROADHOUSE  The roadhouse is a big club just across from the railway station, with three floors and DJs every night of the week. With their extremely long opening hours, this is a pit stop for all those who don’t want to go home yet. They have beer pong on Tuesdays.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 220 27 27, www.roadhouse.ch. Open 07:00 - 04:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 08:00, Sun 09:00 - 04:00.

ROK �AMERON HOTEL FLORA� Located a couple of minutes’ walk from the main train station Rok in the basement of Hotel Flora is both a club and an afterhours party. It plays host to label nights, club concerts and established DJs and the relaxed atmosphere and affordable drinks attract a young mixed crowd. If you are still wideawake at 04:00 then you can keep on dancing here through until 09:00 on weekends. After 04:00 it’s usually house and techno that keeps revellers awake.QB-4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 41 90, www.rokklub.ch. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 - 09:00. E

 ADULT  ADUL T ENTERT ENTERTAINMENT Swiss laws are quite liberal  liberal   in regard to the sex business: prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in brothels and similar establishments. Both are regulated however, and street prostitution particularly is only legal in very few areas. The time of strip clubs where half-naked ladies dance on a pole until they are entirely naked is apparently over, as the last strip club in Lucerne closed in winter 2016. What still exists are so called contact bars where you can meet a prostitute and accompany her to a room nearby, whereas in brothels, sex and sauna clubs the offer is even more direct. Many of these establishments are concentrated in the area around Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. This somewhat shabby corner of town does not have the best reputation but it can’t be called dangerous. You can also find contact bars in the old town and Neustadt. As in other places, many prostitutes work because they have few other income options or, even worse, because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly likely to be victims of human trafficking.

 Bubii ei  Bub eifac fach h  zum Ticket!  T icket!   App down download loaden en und un d mi t zwei zw ei Klicks K licks Ihr Passepartout-Ticket schnell, einfach und sicher über Ihr Smartphone kaufen. Weitere Informationen unter www.vbl.ch/oev-ticket

BRÜGGLI Centrally located contact bar.QA-4, Pfistergasse 2, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 18 57, www.nightlife-lucerne.ch. Open 10:00 - 02:30, Sun 16:00 - 00:30.

26  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Sightseeing Lucerne holds a whole hand  hand  of trump cards, the truly stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town, an impressive number of absorbing museums and the aura of nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned destination. You’ll find all the classics and our favourites in the listings. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s fee, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums are usually closed on Mondays. M ondays.

MAIN SIGHTS Lucerne’s main sights are heavily marketed and known around the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the mediaeval bridges and fortifications, the 19th-century attractions around the Lion Monument to the 21st-century landmark of the KKL. You’ll find museums in our museum section.

Chapel bridge, Lake Lucerne, Mount Pilatus: Lucerne’s Lucerne’s tourist trinity. iStock.com/photogearch

JESUITENKIRCHE Closed for renovations until December 2016. QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a, uFranziskanerplatz, www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch. Closed for renovations until December 2016.

parts begin. The Chapel Bridge is really only complete with the octagonal Wasserturm, literally the ‘water tower’, tower’, which stands in the water next to it. Built before the bridge (i.e. before 1365), the Wasserturm was part of Lucerne’s military fortifications and was also used as a dungeon. It is seldom accessible to the public. QB-4, uBahnhof.

MUSEUMS FOR LESS LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD / LION PASS  The Lucerne museum card is a great deal, giving you free access to 10 museums in Lucerne and neighbouring Kriens on two consecutive days for just 36Sfr. You’re already saving money if you just go to three museums, and if one is the transport museum (30Sfr), you’re almost saving from the start. Another option ist the Lion Pass (22/12Sfr), a combined ticket to the Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama. For For the classic one-day 19th-century tour - Lion Monument (free), Gletschergarten, Alpineum and Bourbaki Panorama - the Lion Pass is your best option (you will have to pay an additional 5Sfr for the Alpineum).QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, www.lucerne.com. Museum card: 36Sfr. Available only at the tourist office at the main train station. No reduction for children, so not necessary worthwhile for kids. Lion pass: 22/12Sfr, available at Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama. Panorama.

Unique experienc e xperiencee ON LAKE LUCERNE

KAPELLBRÜCKE & WASSERTURM �CHAPEL BRIDGE� Lucerne’s most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel Bridge, which stretches across the entrance to the River Reuss (over nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction. Built in 1365 as part of Lucerne’s fortifications, it is the oldest covered wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its fame is due to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings positioned inside the bridge in the gabels. The The paintings date from the 17th century centur y and show scenes from Lucerne’s and Switzerland’s history, and they can be seen as a mass media of the time, used to advocate allegiance to Catholicism during the Counter-Reformation. In 1993 a fire destroyed a large part of the bridge (towards the centre) including 78 of the paintings. When you walk across the bridge you will see burned, blackened paintings on either end which mark the point where the restored facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

www.Iakelucerne.ch

 April - June 2016 27

Sightseeing KKL LUCERNE �KULTUR� UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN�

were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal family were living during the French revolution against revolutionaries. The royal family had long since fled, so the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz. Admission free.

 The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and its position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel Bridge as Lucerne’s major landmark. The concert and conference centre was completed in the year 2000, built to plans of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its centrepiece is the concert hall with nearly 2000 seats which is used mostly for classical concerts. It has extraordinary acoustics thanks to acoustics engineer Russell Johnson. The KKL also houses other event halls, conference facilities and the Kunstmuseum art museum (p. 31). It also has several culinary options, e.g. the top-end restaurant Red.QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch. Guided tours on most Saturdays 11:00, reservations required, tel. (+41) 41 226 79 50, 15/9Sfr.

MUSEGGMAUER �MUSEGG WALL�  The Musegg wall with its nine towers is part of the ramparts built in the 14th century to protect the town of Lucerne - as is the Chapel Bridge. The wall is astoundingly well preserved. The wall and four towers are open to the public in summer. QA-3 to C-2, uBrüggligasse, www.museggmauer.ch. Accessible 08:00 - 19:00, April to October. Admission free.

SPREUERBRÜCKE �SPREUER BRIDGE�  Though overshadowed overshadowed by by its its larger counterpart, the Chapel Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge is just as worthy of a visit. Built in the 16th century, it has the same triangular gable paintings as the Chapel Bridge, which are not know anywhere other than in these two bridges. The paintings here depict a danse macabre, macabre, reminding the observer of how we are all equal before death, regardless of wealth and standing.  They were were painted in the 17th Century and are still original, original, as luckily no fire has devastated the Spreuer Bridge. The spreu meaning chaff (the name comes from the German spreu meaning husk around wheat grains), as this was the only bridge from which one was allowed to throw chaff into the river (being the furthest downstream).QA-3, uKasernenplatz.

CHURCHES Please refrain from visiting churches during services.  The Lion Monument commemorates Swiss mercenaries mercenaries who died defending the French king in 1793. MikeNG/Shutterstock 

LÖWENDENKMAL �LION MONUMENT� While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed great fame in the 19th century and harks back to a very different era, when nation states were just emerging in Europe.  The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created by Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to the Swiss regiment which served French French king Louis XVI, and

FRANZISKANERKIRCHE  This church was built as part of the Franciscan Franciscan monastery from the 13th century onwards. The orginally Gothic construction contains a richly carved wooden pulpit from the Renaissance and Baroque altars. The row of flags painted on the interior wall above the arches shows the heraldic flags the local soldiers captured when they defeated Habsburg knights in the Battle of Sempach in 1386 - later to become part of the legend of the creation of Switzerland. QB-4, Franziskanerplatz, uFranziskanerplatz. Open 07:30 - 18:00, please refrain from visits during services.

LEAVE YOUR EVERYDAY EVERYDAY BEH IND  AN  A N D E N J OY U NF O R GE T TAB TABL L E MO M E NT S O N O U R S H I P S ! 

Phone +41 41 368 08 08 [email protected] www.sng.ch

SNG - - since 1357 SNG

28  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Sightseeing LAKE LUCERNE

LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES

Lake Lucerne Cruises

Lake Lucerne is one of the things the things that make Lucerne so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part par t of life in Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhof- and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut trees is the classical choice. But you can also go south from the KKL, towards the large lake-side park Ufschötti. The lake also gives you access to a vast area filled to the brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing can beat a cruise on the lake. The long cruise down to Flüelen e.g. will take you to the Rütli and the Tellsplatte, both involved in Switzerland’s founding Vierwaldstättersee, myths. In German the lake is called Vierwaldstättersee, literally the lake of the four cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are considered to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the William Tell saga plays in this area.

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 The Lake Lucerne Lucerne navigatio navigation n company company operates operates a fleet of over 20 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech cruiser Saphir which dates from 2012. You can catch a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport Museum, or spend up to 5.5h on a roundtrip cruise to Flüelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers around the KKL. Snacks, drinks and often full meals are available from the bar on almost all connections.QC-4, Bahnhofquai, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the ticket office across from the railway station are roughly 08:30 - 17:00. Adult fares, one-way, second-class are between 6Sfr and 46Sfr, 46Sfr, depending on distance. Daypass 72/36Sfr.

SNG LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES Named after the patron saint of mariners, the Sankt Niklausen navigation company offers a range of boating services on Lake Lucerne. During summer, it offers regular lake cruises (roundtrip, approx. 60 min) leaving from Schwanenplatz. You can also book individual cruises (e.g. on a wooden yesteryear motor boat) and rent pedalos, motor boats and yachts in different sizes. QC-3, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 368 08 08, www.sng.ch. Departures generally 12:00. 13:15, 14:30, 15:45, 17:00, 18:15 every day. Check by phone. Round cruise 19Sfr, 10Sfr (children 5-12), children under 5 free.

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Sightseeing SIGHTSEEING TOURS

GUIDED CITY WALK  On this walking tour, a guide takes you round all of Lucerne’s major sights giving you historical and anecdotal background. You’ll see places like the Chapel Bridge as well as some more hidden corners. Reservations are not needed, just turn up at the tourist information before 09:45. In English and German. QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 17 17, www.luzern.com. Daily 09:45, duration approx. 2h. From Nov - April only Wed & Sat. In April additionally on Sun. 18/5Sfr.

GUIDED TITLIS TOUR A bus takes you to Engelberg from where a cable car connection - with a revolving cable car on the last section - gets you up to Mount Titlis, towering more than 3000m asl in the eternal snow. The view of the Swiss Alps up here is breathtaking (weather permitting)! You can visit the ice grotto, cross the ‘cliff walk’ suspension bridge or visit the glacier park where you can sledge all year round. The tour is with a multi-lingual guide.QC-4, Zentralstrasse Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 12:30 in front of the tourist information at the train station. Book in advance by phone or on their website. 129/64.50Sfr.

 Authentic Swiss Tour: Mount Mount Rigi

NEW AUTHENTIC SWISS TOUR LUCERNE  This combo package allows you to experience all those things Switzerland is famous for: watches, lakes, mountains and chocolate. Experience watchmaking live in the House of Chronoswiss, take Chronoswiss,  take a boat ride on Lake Lucerne  Lucerne  from Lucerne to Vitznau, from there you can catch the cogwheel railway to the top of Mount Rigi and Rigi and then visit the Chocolate Adventure at Adventure at the Verkehrshaus Verkehrshaus in Lucerne, where you can learn about the origin and production of chocolate using your eyes, ears, nose, fingers and your taste buds too. The tour is non-guided so you can do it at your leisure in whichever order you prefer, prefer, although it makes sense to combine the boat trip with Mount Rigi and the Chocolate Adventure. Tickets are available at the boat ticket booth or at the Lucerne  Tourism  Tourism office and include all entrance fees and return travel on the boat and cogwheel railway and bus ride to Chronoswiss. No reservations are required. Qtel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.luzern.com/en/authentic-swisstour-lucerne. 132 Sfr per person.

SAPHIR BOAT BOAT TOUR  This one-hour lake tour takes you round the arm of the lake on which Lucerne is located, and thanks to audio guides you get commentary on the landscapes and historic sites you’re gliding past - in any one of 11 languages. The vessel you travel on is the Saphir, a brand new ship whose design is closely modelled on large, luxurious motor yachts.QC-4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Up to eight tours daily between 10:15 and 19:00, May 28 - Sep 11, 2016. In May and from Sept 12 until Oct 23 four daily tours. 25/15, SBB GA / half-fare card is valid, children under 6 free. soldiers crossed the border into Switzerland, fleeing the Prussians. In Switzerland the soldiers were disarmed and looked after by the government and the public, giving rise to a humanitarian tradition. Paintings like this one were hugely popular at the time, before the advent of cinema! In the original panorama building from 1889 you can view this 19th-century attraction, as well as learn more about the event behind it thanks to the museum’s museum’s very state-of-the-ar state- of-the-artt exhibition and film. QC-2, Löwenplatz 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 412 30 30, www.bourbakipanorama.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 12/7Sfr, 1 adult and kids 24Sfr, 2 adults and kids k ids 35Sfr.

MUSEUMS ALPINEUM  The  The Alpin Alpineum eum is a witne witness ss to the boomi booming ng roman romantic tic enthusiasm of the 19th century. There are five Alpine vistas in yesteryear virtual reality technology to gaze at, like the ascent to Mont Blanc or the view from Gornergrat. Opened in 1901, the Alpineum has hardly changed since and is definitely behind the times in exhibition techniques, but it does have an incontestable charm. Also delightful are the 19th-century stereoscopes with views of Rome or Paris. This small museum can easily be seen within 20 minutes.QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 11, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 62 66, www.alpineum.ch. Open 09:00 - 12:30, 13:30 - 18:00, April - October. 5/3Sfr.

FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ �FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY�

BOURBAKI PANORAMA

 This museum’s museum’s main exhibition exhibition focuses on on the early history of the Swiss confederation. See p. 46 for more details. QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 41 819 60 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.

 The Bourbaki Panorama Panorama is basically basically one huge painting. painting. The circular painting which is 114 metres around and 10 metres high was painted in 1881 by Edouard Castres. It depicts a major military event of 1871 - 87,000 defeated French 30  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Sightseeing GLETSCHERGARTEN Gletschergarten means glacier garden, and this Lucerne institution consists of three elements: a geological site formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze dating from 1896. This quaint jumble of attractions is very 19th century, centur y, making this museum a museum piece in itself. The geological site is a set of deep funnels and channels worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once covered this area. The museum is housed in a building with Baroque, Renaissance and Biedermeier rooms. The larger part of the exhibition consists of relief models of Switzerland and exhibits about glaciers, climate change and avalanches. The The mirror maze finally is pure and simple 19th century fair-ground fun. But it still works!QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open daily 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/8Sfr.

RICHARD WAGNER MUSEUM KUNSTMUSEUM LUZERN  The art museum museum in the KKL has a fine collection collection of Swiss art, including Baroque paintings by Kaspar Meglinger (who did some of the work on the Spreuer Bridge), but the focus is on the 20th century. There There is work by super star Ferdinand Ferdinand Hodler, Cuno Amiet and André Thomkins. The collection is not shown as such, but used to compose changing thematic exhibitions. QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 78 00, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, June 11 - Aug 11 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. 15/6Sfr.

4 TYPICAL SWISS HIGHLIGHTS IN 1 DAY 

Lake Lucerne

Get your tickets at  the tourist information Lucerne

Swiss Chocolate Adventure

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Richard Wagner, Wagner, famed German composer and re-inventor of the opera, lived in this house with his family for six years and entertained illustrious guests here until he left to found the Bayreuth festival. The ground floor of their handsome home on the lake tells the story of Wagner’s time in Lucerne. Café on site, occasional concerts. QRichard Wagner Weg 27, uWartegg, tel. (+41) 41 360 23 70, www.richard-wagner-museum.ch. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. 8/6Sfr, free for children under 13 years old.

 Authentic Swiss Tour Lucerne

Mt. Rigi

Chronoswiss

 April - June 2016 31

Sightseeing VERKEHRSHAUS �SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT�

BRAINTEASERS

 The Swiss Museum of Transport Transport is Switzerland’s Switzerland’s most popular museum. It tells the story of the development of transport and mobility by road, rail and water as well as in the air and outer space - and how it effects everyday life. Look at more than 3,000 objects like planes, steam engines and cars in the huge halls. Or be a TV presenter for a couple of minutes in the communication section and take home a recording of your performance. This museum is very much hands-on and in every section there are special activities for children - a good choice for the family not just on a rainy day!QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus/Lido, tel. (+41) 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15Sfr, the planetarium and the chocolate adventure cost extra (12/7Sfr) or can be booked separately (15/9Sfr).

NEW ADVENTURE ROOMS  The Adventure Rooms escape game seems to be popping up all over Europe and North America, but the idea was in fact developed by a Swiss physics teacher in Bern as part of a class project in 2012. It is influenced by adventure computer games from the 1990’s, 1990’s, Hungarian escape games and scientific experiments. The basic idea is that you and your team are locked in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together as a team. Adventure Rooms Lucerne is located next to Emmenbrücke train station (five minutes by train from Lucerne main station) and is now the largest location in Switzerland. Switzerl and. You have the choice between four different games, each with its own puzzles. Don’t worry if you don’t speak German, the solutions are primarily with symbols and numbers and the rules can be explained in English.QGerliswilstrasse 6, uEmmenbrücke, www.adventure-rooms.ch. Open 09:45 - 20:25. Check availability and book a time slot via the website. 30 Sfr per person (4 - 14 people), 40 Sfr per person (3 people), 50 Sfr (2 people). Children need to be 10+.

SAMMLUNG ROSENGART �ROSENGART COLLECTION�  This art collection concentrates on two figureheads of classical modernism: exuberant Pablo Picasso Picasso (1881 - 1973) and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 - 1940), the latter of Swiss origins. A gem among Lucerne’s museums. QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 220 16 60, www.rosengart.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/10Sfr.

 The Rosengart collection is home to many Picassos. Picassos.

MARKETS

SURVIVING UNDERGROUND � SONNENBERG BUNKER TOURS

FISH MARKET Under the arcades at the end of Unter der Egg, right on the river Reuss, several stands sell fresh fish. Among them is Nils Hofer, fisherman from Meggen on the lake  just east of Lucerne, who sells his catch whole and fileted, apart from some imported fish.QB-4, Unter der Egg, uSchwanenplatz. Tue, Fri, Sat 06:00 13:00.

Aside from stunning nature, chocolate and cheese, Switzerland is also renowned for its bunkers. During the Cold War a law was passed giving every resident the right to bunker space, a law still existing today. Lucerne is home to the former largest civilian bunker in the world, built between 1970 and 1976 and located within the city. If it ever had been needed, two motorway motor way tunnels would have been sealed by four 350-ton gates, with enough room for 20,000 beds and hundreds of toilet cabins. In addition to the two tunnels, the bunker was equipped with a sevenfloor, subterranean building. The tour provides a fascinating insight into Cold War times and the fear of the nuclear bomb.QBerglistrasse 33, uBerglistrasse, tel. (+41) 79 797 09 17, www.unterirdisch-ueberleben.ch. Public tours in English (2 hrs) run on the last Sun of each month at 11:00. Meet your guide in front of the Jesuit Church (B-4), 30Sfr. Private tours available on request. Book in advance (phone or website). N 32  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

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REUSSSTEG FLEAMARKET  The most most centrally located fleamarket fleamarket takes place every Saturday from May to October along the river Reuss between Spreuerbrücke and Reussbrücke. The market is particularly popular for its picturesque location and locals selling a colourful mix of rarities, records, clothes and other bits and bobs, it’s a great place to pick up a bargain.QA-4, Untere Burgerstrasse / Reusssteg, uKasernenplatz. Every Sat from May - Oct, 07:00 - 16:00.  

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Mountain peaks You’ll enjoy many magnificent vistas of the mountain giants surrounding the city on Lucerne’s streets and squares. But why just admire them from afar? Many peaks are easily accessible and the views up there are something else! Our chapter lists the classics Pilatus and Rigi and many more. For a package offer with mountains see the Swiss Authentic Tour (p. 30). If you want to go to more than one mountain peak, consider buying a Tell Pass (see p. 36).

BRIENZER ROTHORN BY STEAM TRAIN AND CABLE CAR  The Brienzer Rothorn (2351 meters asl) offers breathtaking views of the Alps. And it features one of the more remarkable ways to go up or down a mountain - a steamdriven rack and pinion train that is still much the same as in 1891, when this railroad was built. The Brienzer Rothorn is accessible from two sides actually - so you can make it a roundtrip from Lucerne. E.g. go up from Sörenberg by cable car and use the steam train for the descent to Brienz. In the steam train you’ll sit in open carriages and be able to take in breathtaking views of the Lakes Brienz and Thun and the Bernese Alps on the slow ride down.Qtel. (+41) 33 952 22 22, www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch. www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch. Steam train runs June 4 - October 23, 2016. In May on weekends only, but not up to the peak, only to Planalp. The steam train departs 8 times between 08:36 and 16:36, cable car runs 07:30 - 17:05. Return tickets steam train only 84/44Sfr. Up to two kids per adult travel for free, otherwise 10Sfr. Cable car 34/17Sfr.

BÜRGENSTOCK � LAKE LOOKOUT  The Bürgenstock Bürgenstock is an easy to reach mountain, mountain, and though being only 1127 metres a.s.l. the views from here are absolutely spectacular. The northern flank which rises out of the lake is very steep, while on the other side grassy slopes drop gently down to Stansstad and Ennetbürgen, great for relaxed walks. One of the highlights is the Hammetschwand lift in the rocky northern cliff which takes you up over 150 metres almost to the peak, giving you great views on the way up and on top (runs May 26 - End of August, 2016). There are several restaurants and hotels (including Villa Honegg p. 50) here. To get here take the train to Stansstad, from there the bus to Obbürgen, Moos, 40 minutes in total. The cogwheel railway is currently not running.Qfrom Kehrsiten or Ennetbürgen, www.buergenstock.ch.

Mt. Rigi Peninsula Authentic Switzerland

Mount Rigi in the delicate light of dusk.

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ENGELBERG � TITLIS ROTAIR

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From the village of Engelberg a rotating gondola takes you up to Titlis to more than 3,000 metres a.s.l. There you have spectacular views of the glacier and the dozens of mountains which totally surround you here. There are many ambitious hiking options as well as leisurely walks around the little lake Trübsee. Regular trains connect Lucerne to Engelberg in just under an hour.QPoststrasse 3, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. Return ticket 89/44.50Sfr.

MOUNT RIGI

www.rigi.ch 34  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is Europe’s first mountain railway. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. At the top there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the option of walking down just part of lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Mountain peaks the way, as the train has several stops where you can jump back on. You can also combine with the aerial cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis, for instance on a round trip by boat from Lucerne to Vitznau, with return from Weggis. Accessible all year round. The train and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship it’s just as fast.Qfrom Vitznau, Weggis or Arth-Goldau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch. From Vitznau 09:15 - 22:05. From Weggis daily form 08:10 - 19:10. Check website for exact timetables. Return ticket 68/34Sfr.

PILATUS Except in the very worst of weather you’ll see Mount Pilatus’ imposing peaks from almost anywhere in Lucerne. At 2132 metres a.s.l. it is the highest and most rugged of the Lucerne’s three local mountains, offering the most Alpine experience. Though the name Pilatus seems to have other roots, mediaeval legend connected it to Pontius Pilate (Pilatus (Pilatus in German and Latin), the Roman official who authorized the crucifixion of Jesus. The despised bureaucrat was said to be buried in a (no longer existing) lake on Pilatus; storms raged anywhere he was buried, so eventually his body was moved here, were the storms would be far away. Climbing the mountain was banned by law until the 16th century, for fear this might provoke storms that would harm the town of Lucerne. The ban has long since fallen, and Pilatus is one of the most popular peaks to visit. With several restaurants, a hotel, sledging in winter, rock-climbing, a rope park and a long summer

Hold on tight! The view from Pilatus onto the lake is elevating!

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toboggan run there are plenty of options. And there will always be the grassy slopes, the woods and hiking trails and the view far into the distance. You can reach Pilatus by the world’s world’s steepest cog railway from Alpnachstad or by cable car from Fräkmüntegg. Taking the train to Alpnachstad or the bus to Kriens, the whole trip takes around 1h15min. Qfrom Kriens (Schlossweg 1) or Alpnachstad, tel. (+41) 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. www.pilatus.ch. Cable car from Kriens runs daily 08:30 - 17:00. Cog railway runs usually from midMay until Nov 20. Return ticket to the peak 72/36Sfr.

2132 possibilities above sea level

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Mountain peaks SCHILTHORN � PIZ GLORIA

TELL PASS

Tell Pass

If you plan on traveling over a few days in the Lake Lucerne region, it might be worthwhile picking up a  Tell-P  Tell-Pass. ass. One ticket ticket allows allows you to travel travel on all trains, trains, buses, boats and aerial cable ways including for example Pilatus, Rigi and Mount Titlis. Titlis. You You can choose between 2, 3, 4, 5 and 10 days of unrestricted travel. It’s great value: if you were to go up Mount Pilatus on one day and Mount  Titlis  Titlis on the next, the cable cable car passes passes alone alone would cost cost 161 Sfr and with the 2 Day Tell-Pass for 170 Sfr trains and busses are included too. Apart from transportation there are 20 to 50% discounts for activities like the Verkehrshaus. Buy your pass online or at the train station in Lucerne.Qwww.tellpass.ch. 2 days 170 Sfr, 3 days 200 Sfr, 4 days 220 Sfr, 5 days 230 Sfr, 10 days 280 Sfr. Accompanied kids 30 Sfr for 10 days.

On the Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz Gloria restaurant, and was the setting for the 1968 James Service . There is a Bond Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. exhibition on site. Getting up there is also quite exciting: from Stechelberg four sections of cable cars take you up to the peak in just over 30 minutes. Experienced hikers can walk all the way up. The region around Mürren also offers many enjoyable hiking options for less accomplished hikers too. From From Lucerne, take a train to Interlaken (change in Bern), at Interlaken change to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From there a bus takes you to Stechelberg valley station (approx. 3 hours all in all).QSchilthornbahn, Mürren, www.schilthorn.ch. www.schilthorn.ch. Runs every 30 minutes from 7:55 to 15:55, closed April 18 - 22 & Nov 14 - Dec 9, 2016. Return fare from Lauterbrunnen 112/56Sfr.

Stanserhorn cable car and its open-air deck!

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STANSERHORN  The  The Stanserh Stanserhorn orn is an easil easilyy accessi accessible ble peak peak with with spectac spectacular ular views of central Switzerland’s Switzerland’s mountains and lakes. You You can ride to the top on the world’s first open upper deck on a cablecar.  The  The deck deck has room room for for up up to to 30 30 peop people le to to stan stand d and and enjoy enjoy the ride under the open sky. Getting to Stans from Lucerne by train takes around 20 minutes.QStansstaderstrasse 19, Stans, tel. (+41) 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. Runs April 9 - Nov 13, 2016 daily 08:15 - 16:30, from May on Fri & Sat until 22:00. Return ticket from Stans 74/37Sfr. 74/37Sfr. On busy days book boarding passes online, they guaratee you a certain time slot, so you don’t have to queue.

One ticket and all of Central Switzerland is yours!

or

Travel free on

10

days

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www.tell-pass.ch

STOOS  The small village of Stoos offers stunning stunning views over Lake Lucerne from the top of Fronalpstock as well as hiking tracks and bike trails. Stoos is also a good day trip destination destinat ion if you  just want to see the mountains mountains and go for a walk - on the Fronalpstock there is a short panorama trail (1,5 kilometres). Stoos is only accessible by cable railway or aerial cable car (from Schwyz or the ‘Schlatti’ valle satation).QStoos, tel. (+41) 41 818 08 08, www.stoos.ch. Stoos accessible all year, chair lift to Fronalpstock Fronalpstock runs May 26 - Nov 1, 2016. Cable car to Stoos and back 22/11Sfr, kids free, day pass incl. trip to Fronalpstock 40/30Sfr, kids free. lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Lucerne for kids When it comes to holidays, children’s priorities are a bit different from those of their elders. Luckily, Lucerne has plenty to offer for the younger generations, from outdoor activities to interactive museums.

MUSEUMS & ACTIVITIES

PARKS & SPORTS Walking around museums is alright, but kids need room to run and romp sometimes. Lucerne has a few parks and playgrounds playgrounds which are just right for this, for example close to Museggmauer at Museggstrasse 19.

AESCHBACHS CHOCOWELT

HALLENBAD ALLMEND

What better place to live out memories of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory   than in Switzerland, home of some of the finest chocolate in the world. Aeschbachs Chocowelt offers you the opportunity to do just that in a modern and interactive environment. Here you can learn about the history, watch chocolate being made (weekdays only), taste different samples and then even make and decorate your own too. You should book your visit online or by phone. Take the S-bahn N°1 from Lucerne main train station to Root D4 (10 minutes).QChocoDromo 1a, Hochschwerzlen, Hochschwerzlen, Root, uRoot D4, tel. (+41) 41 747 33 33, www.aeschbach-chocolatier.ch. Open daily (incl. Sunday) 10:00 - 17:00 (last entry 16:00). Book your time slot in advance on www.aeschbach-chocolatier.ch. Admission: 15/8Sfr (for adults a 5Sfr voucher to use in the shop included), children under 6 free.

 This  This indoor indoor swimmin swimming g pool pool offers offers water water fun for all ages. ages.  There  There is a kids pool pool and a 55-metre 55-metre tube slide for the more adventurous. You can choose from the five pools, all different sizes and temperatures, depending on whether you want to swim lengths (25-metre pool), dive (5-metre high diving boards) or relax (wellness pool with massage nozzles). The modern architecture and large windows allow for plenty of daylight and views over Mount Pilatus and surroundings. Watersports and swimming courses for kids and adults are on offer, check the website for the latest information. QZihlmattweg 46, uZihlmattweg, tel. (+41) 41 319 37 80, www.hallenbadluzern.ch. Open Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00 22:00, Wed Wed & Fri 07:30 - 22:00, Sat & Sun and holidays 08:00 - 18:00. (Closed for revision July 25 - August 12, 2016).

@InYourPocket PILATUS SEILPARK �ROPEP �ROPE PARK�

A mediaeval marvel at the historical museum.

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All the thrill of climbing trees and whizzing along ropeways, James-Bond style, but secured better than a secret agent that’s a ropepark. This one is a whole spider’s web of ropebridges, climbing routes and ropeways set up between the mighty pine trees half-way up Mount Pilatus. Secured with a harness, you set off on different circuits which are classified by age and difficulty. Professional instruction is included. To get there, take the cable car from Kriens to Fräkmüntegg, all in all about 1h from Lucerne. There is a summer tobogganing run there as well.QFräkmüntegg, tel. (+41) 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Open May - October daily 09:00 - 17:00. 28/21Sfr, discounts for families. Price includes helmet, harness and gloves and is for a maximum stay of 3h. Minimum age 8 years, min. height 1.20m, max. weight 120kg. Closed in bad weather.

HISTORICAL MUSEUM  The historical museum of Lucerne calls itself depot , and that’s what it looks like: a storage house chock-a-block with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get. It then tells you about the object on the display, in English or German. But much better than that is the children’s quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells, running up and down the four floors looking for the objects the scanner points them to. They can choose from several different themes, and there is even a prize!QA-4, Pfistergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 228 54 24, www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon except on official holidays. 10/5Sfr, children under 6 free. facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Swimming lessons & water sports courses www.hallenbadluzern.ch

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Shopping For a town which is - after all -   not very big, Lucerne has a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If you’re buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top most larger destinations (see chapter Watches Watches & Jewellery p. 42). But there is also an impressive range of fashion boutiques, some well stocked with the international luxury brands, while others focus on lesser known, carefully chosen Swiss and international designers. Being Switzerland, Switzerland, chocolates and other fine food products are well represented too.  The two major shopping shopping areas areas are in the old town town between Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mühleplatz to the west (B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the ‘new town’) town’) between the railway station and Hirschengraben H irschengraben street (A/B/C-4).

Reussbrücke in the old town, where the shopping starts. iStock.com/nevereverro

DIE STIEFVÄ S TIEFVÄTER TER A concept store for hipsters where you can pick up some urban accessories (bags, sunglasses, jewelery) and whilst you’re there, why not get an affordable haircut (29 39Sfr, without a hair wash). It features regular exhibitions with work by local artists. QB-4, Hirschengraben 11, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 79 472 37 32, www.diestiefvaeter.com. www.diestiefvaeter.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun & Mon. No credit cards.

 ACCESSORIES CHANGEMAKER Under the slogan of ‘ethics meets aesthetics’, Changemaker offers a wide range of brands and products committed to design and craftsmanship, many of which are conceived and produced locally. They offer clothing,  jeweller y, stationery, stat ionery, books, electronics, electroni cs, kitchenware k itchenware and office equipment - a big selection in a small space.QB-3, Kramgasse 9, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 440 66 20, www.changemaker.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.

BOOKS & CRAFTS BOOKBINDERS DESIGN  This Swedish company designs a wide range of highquality notebooks, boxes, diaries, binders, frames and photo albums in different natural materials, shapes and colours. Many of the boxes and notebooks are bound with coloured fabric, giving them the special Scandinavian S candinavian touch. Several products can also be personalised by engraving, making perfect gifts!QC-2, Hertensteinstrasse 3, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 95 06, www.bookbindersdesign.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

STOCKER BOOKS Apparently the largest book shop in central Switzerland, Stocker just off Schwanenpl S chwanenplatz atz stocks mainly German books, but it has a small selection of English language literature, as well as maps, toys and some stationery supplies. QC-3, Hertensteinstrasse Hertensteinstrasse 44, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 417 25 25, www.buchhaus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00-16:00, closed Sun.

OPENING HOURS Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon open  Mon Fri 08:30 - 18:30, 18:30, (closing time by law) ‘late-night shopping’ is until 21:00 on Thu and Fri, Fri , though not all shops participate (more are open late on Thu). On Saturdays most shops open 09:00 - 16:00. 16:00 . On Sundays shops are generally closed, closed , though there are exceptions for bakers, some jewellers, souvenir shops and others, and everything at the train station. 38  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Shopping MARC O’POLO Well, they specialise in casual, but it’s casual with style, we’d say. You’ll also find the accessories and shoes of this company with Swedish roots. The Lucerne store features all their latest collections for women - be it trousers, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QB-3, Weinmarkt 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 84 00, www.marc-o-polo.ch. www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

accessories and the odd piece of designer furniture are also available. QC-5, Waldstätterstrasse 19, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 13 51, www.boutique-mai.ch. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00, closed Mon & Sun.

CHARLES VÖGELE  The Swiss fashion house Vögele is your one stop for casual and classic fashion. They They have it all, from casual sweatshirts to tops and elegant blouses and dresses for women to shirts, jeans and jackets for men. They also feature a kid’s line with lots of fashion for boys, girls and teens. QC-3, Hertensteinstrasse Hertensteinstrasse 50, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 417 02 17, www.charles-voegele.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

CREATIVE CREA TIVE INDUSTRIES DIE HANDLUNG Die Handlung can be translated into English as the plot. A small corner shop on the edge of the Neustadt specializes in handpicked and limited edition fashion and accessories. Clothing, bags, wallets, art books, jewellery, perfume. It presents articles from both local and international designers such as Blutgeschwister, Japanproxy and tokushuu, produced under unde r fair conditions. A great place to find something special and original. QC-6, Bundesplatz 10, uBundesplatz, tel. (+41) 41 210 27 90, www.diehandlung.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, closed Sun & Mon.

DEPARTMENT DEP ARTMENT STORES

Carefully selected pieces at Boutique Mai.

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COOP CITY Coop City is a classic department store. You You will find almost anything from travel accessories to fashion and shoes to stationery. Not to mention a self-service restaurant on the top floor.QB-3, Rössligasse 18-20, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 417 11 33, www.coop.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

MANOR Manor is a stylish department store with a touch of Italian flair. It specialises in young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands - though it has something for everyone’s needs. Besides that there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very good self-service restaurant on the top floor.QB-3, Weggisgasse 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 76 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

GRIEDER One of the more upmarket addresses in town, Grieder has a selection of prêt-à-porter from the major luxury couture houses, as well as slightly more affordable fashion and their own in-house brand. Dior, Valentino, Armani or Balenciaga are all represented. Apart from clothes they stock shoes, bags and accessories, only for women at this location. QC-3, Kapellplatz 1, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 35 51, www.bongenie-grieder.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 -16:00, closed Sun.

FASHION BOUTIQUE MAI A small boutique specializing in women’s fashion in the Neustadt area, featuring both local and international designers. The shop is run by local designer Melanie Kunz and offers primarily clothing, but a selection of jewellery, facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

 April - June 2016 39

Shopping selection of chocolates - more than 50 different kinds of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout town. QC-3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, Schwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 91 44, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:00.

TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8% minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com.

L’ART DU THÉ A warm cup of tea on a cold winter’s day usually hits the spot and if you want to find a new variety or talk to passionate tea specialists, then call by here. Shop owner Barbara regularly travels to India, Sri Lanka, China, Japan,  Taiwan,  Taiwan, Korea and Vietnam, where she tastes and selects the teas on site, with a focus on quality and sustainability. QA-4, Burgerstrasse 1, uKasernenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 32 20, www.art-du-the.ch. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:45 - 18:30, Mon 13:45 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

NEW VOM FASS Pumpkin seed pesto, fig and green tomato chutney and chimichurri are just some of the delicious offerings here.  The store concept is more famous for the speciality wines, spirits, cooking oils and vinegar, where you can choose how much you would like and in what kind of a bottle. QA-4, Franziskanerplatz 14, uPilatusplatz, tel. (+41) 41 211 11 22, www.luzern.vomfass.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Mon 13:30 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 19:30. Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

NEW KOFLER  The Kofler family opened the first Kofler fashion house in 1852 in Lucerne and it remained in the family for four generations until 1968, when it was sold to the Bachmann family, who still run the business today. Today they have four locations in Lucerne. Subito specializes in youth fashion, where as Kofler focusses on a more smart and classic style collection. The shop features international brands such as Diesel, Pepe Jeans and DKNY alongside higher-end labels such as Hugo Boss and Marc Aurel. It also has a Next by Kofler and Tom Tailor store.QB-3, Weggisgasse 17, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 317 27 27, www.kofler.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:30 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

FOOD SPECIALITIES CONFISERIE BACHMANN � CHOCOLATE�LAND Local confectioner N°1 Bachmann has a wide range of chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional Lucerne gingerbread cake. It’s also a bakery, with fresh bread and sandwiches and soups to go. This shop has an extra wide  The Mammut store in one of the stately town houses on Weinmarkt.

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OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS MAMMUT STORE Swiss producer Mammut has been making ropes for decades, but now has a whole range of trekking and mountaineering equipment. On three stories you can browse through shoes, backpacks, sleeping bags, climbing gear and fashionable clothing for outdoor sports and outdoor use in general.QB-3, Weinmarkt 20, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 10 88, www.mammut.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Sun closed. 40  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 

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Shopping SHOPPING CENTRES

CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP

EMMEN CENTER

Casagrande, conveniently located on Schwanenplatz between the lake and the old town, stocks a large range of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo clocks, Swiss army knives (free engraving with purchase), many watches, clothing, chocolate and much more over three floors. They also offer longer opening hours compared to most shops in the city and shipping options. Sister shop at Kapellgasse 24 (B-3). QC-3, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 60 60, www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:30.

 This is central Switzerland’s Switzerland’s largest shopping centre. It’s located in Emmenbrücke, 15 minutes bus ride from Lucerne. Here you’ll find more than 80 shops on 30’000m2 including the fashion stores PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller Kurz and the department store Manor just to name a few. QStauffacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrücke, uEmmen Center, tel. (+41) 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 16:00, Sun closed.

SCHMOCKER SOUVENIRS

Emmen centre offers 80 shops under one roof.

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SOUVENIRS HARRY’S SOUVENIR SHOP  This shop shop on lively lively Pfistergasse Pfistergasse has the full full souvenir range Swiss pocket knives, jumpers and t-shirts with Switzerland prints, postcards and trinkets, some watches as well as a whole wall of Swiss and German cuckoo clocks. QA-4, Pfistergasse 6, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 240 88 88, www.harryslucerne.ch. Open daily (incl. Sunday) 08:30 - 18:30.

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Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings, shirts, postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other imagineable souvenir - you ‘ll find it at Schmocker’s shop. They also stock Swiss handicraft like dolls, music boxes and finest wood carvings and watches.QD-2, St.-Leodegar-Str. St.-Leodegar- Str.2, uLuzernerhof, Luzernerho f, tel. (+41) 41 41032 50, www.schmocker-souvenirs.ch. Open daily (incl. Sundays) 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:00.

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK  Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. QB-3, Kapellgasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 266 07 36, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

SWISS CORNER FRESCO Souvenirs, Souvenirs! Here they have hats, cups, caps - all with a Swiss cross on them of course. As well as a whole wall covered with wooden cuckoo clocks. And yes, they do have pocket knives too.QC-2, Löwenstrasse 13, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 30 06.

 April - June 2016 41

Watches & Jewellery CHRIST WATCHES WATCHES & JEWELRY JE WELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant, Tissot or their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. Get a 10% discount with the voucher in this guide!QB-3, Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 18 80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

EMBASSY In their location just off the Chapel Bridge, Embassy stock some of the most luxurious Swiss and foreign watch brands. You will find Piaget, Bulgari, Lange & Söhne or IWC besides many others, as well as a fine selection of jewellery by  jewellers like Pomellato. Pomellato. Sister boutique at Grendelstrasse 2, see which brands are on offer there on p. 44. QC-3, Kapellplatz 12, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 50 80, www.embassy.ch. Open 09:00 - 12:30, 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.

GÜBELIN EVE RYDAY YDAY PARADI SE NEW COLLECTION BY KURZ

Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces  marketplaces   for Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on offer. Use our watchfinder pages (overleaf) to locate the one you’re after or just browse through the more than two dozen boutiques, most of them located around Schwanenplatz.

Since 1854 Gübelin have been purveyors of jewellery, watches and precious stones in Lucerne. In this very generous store in the former Hotel d’Angleterre you will find many renowned watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Breguet and Jaeger Le Coultre as well as their in-house  jewellery lines New York, Madagascar, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis. QC-3, Schwanenplatz, Schwanenplatz, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 417 00 10, www.guebelin.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 12:30, 14:00 - 18:30.

vine.co/inyourpocket HESS UHREN

BUCHERER Established in 1888 in Lucerne, Bucherer is a leading  jewellery and Swiss watch boutique. They offer top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their own brand Carl F. Bucherer. This huge store also stocks Victorinox pocket knives and Swarovski crystals. QC-3, Schwanenplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 369 77 00, www.bucherer.com. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00, in April 09:00 - 19:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

42  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

 These  These mechan mechanic ic watches watches are manufacture manufactured d in in Luzern! Luzern! Walter Walter Hess and his wife Judith have spent many years developing the design of their very own watches. In 2014 they opened a workshop and shop where they mount and sell the two different models they produce so far: the TWO.1 and the  TWO.2.  TWO.2. Go and have a peek!QStiftstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 322 44 88, www.hessuhren.ch. Open 14:00 - 18:30, Thu till 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00 and by appointment. Closed Sun - Tue.

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Watches & Jewellery KURZ JEWELLERY & WATCHES WATCHES Kurz offers a wide select ion of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado, Longines and many more, as well as a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Ole Lynggaard and Chopard. QWeggisgasse 25, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 419 40 20, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

LES AMBASSADEURS Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery at Les Ambassadeurs. They have long established partnerships with leading brands such as Blancpain, Breitling, Frank Müller, Jaquet Droz, Hublot, Tag Heuer as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in many languages. QB-3, Kapellplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 227 10 50, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open daily incl. Sunday 09:00 - 18:30.

RUCKLI Ruckli is a traditional Lucerne boutique for watches and jewellery right on Bahnhofplatz. They stock many renowned Swiss brands like Blancpain, Chopard, Longines and Tissot, just to name a few. They also have a remarkable choice of rings and specialize in wedding rings.QC-4, Bahnhofplatz 3, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 21 80, www.ruckligold.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

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HOUSE OF CHRONOSWISS  The brand Chronosw Chronoswiss iss produce their mechanical watches right in the city centre of Lucerne. The best thing about it: their House of Chronsowiss is open to visitors. You You can actually watch the t he watchmakers through glass panes as they produce the timepieces. Moreover, there is a whole exhibition showing and explaining the watchmaking process on large screens. In the dial workshop you can see how they procude the dials, using historic machines and old handicraft techniques. Another part of the exhibiton shows the history of the company. And of course there is a boutique where you can see the finished famed watches, be it the sporty  Timemaste  Timemasterr collection collection or the classic classic Sirius Sirius ones. ones. And yes, you can buy a watch here too!QC-2, Löwenstrasse Löwenstrasse 16b, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 552 21 80, www.chronoswiss.com. www.chronoswiss.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sun closed. May - October 15, daily 08:30 - 18:30 (incl. Sunday).

SWISS TIME CORNER In this shop close to Löwenplatz you will find Swiss watch brands like Tissot, Louis Erard, Movado, Raymond Weil and many more.QD-2, Löwenstr. 2, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 410 43 12, www.swisstimecorner.ch. Open daily (incl. Sundays) 08:30 - 20:30, Oct 16 - April 14 daily 09:00 - 18:30.

 April - June 2016 43

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Certina

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Hamilton

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Zenith

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Day trips There is a whole region around Lucerne waiting to be explored! Whether it’s historic monasteries, natural beauties or live cheese making that makes your heart beat faster you’ll find it all and more in our listings. Many destinations can be seen in half a day, but for some you’ll need a full day. For all mountain destinations see our chapter Mountain peaks (p. 34).

CULTURE & HERITAGE FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ �FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY� Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a former granary in the little town of Schwyz whose historical centre is worth a visit in itself. The museum’s main exhibition focuses on the early history of the Swiss confederation, using very up-to-date exhibition techniques. Forum Schwyz also hosts temporary exhibitions on historical and cultural topics. You can get to Schwyz by train in under an hour, then take a bus to Schwyz, Post from where it’s a few minutes’ walk. If you want to make a day of it, consider going by ship: it’s nearly 2h to Brunnen and from there 5 min by train to Schwyz. Audio guides in English, French and Italian.QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. (+41) 41 819 60 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.

PANORAMIC TRAIN GOLDEN PASS � PANORAMIC TRAIN  The Golden Pass is a panoramic train line connecting Lucerne with the city of Montreux, on Lake Geneva.  The route first takes t akes you from Lucerne over the Brünig pass to Interlaken (Luzern - Interlaken Express) and then right through the heart of the Bernese Alps via Zweisimmen and Gstaad to Lake Geneva (Golden Pass Panoramic). In nice weather this trip is absolutely stunning, taking you through valleys and past lakes and mountains of extraordinary beauty. The trains use panorama wagons with huge windows. Qtel. (+41) 21 989 81 90, www.goldenpassline.ch. Trains leave Lucerne every second hour, the first one at 06:05. Book your seats in advance on their website, by phone or at the SBB counters at the station.

LIVE CHEESE MAKING � SCHAUKÄSEREI ENGELBERG In this demonstration dairy (schaukäserei  ( schaukäserei ) in the village of Engelberg you can peek over the shoulders of the cheese makers and watch them in the process of making cheese. Every 40 minutes a new batch is started, so you can see all the steps from the careful heating of the milk to the storage of the blocks of cheese. The most interesting time is between 10:00 and 14:30, when production is most intensive. Leaflets in English explain each step. When you know all you need to know about cheese - go and have some! In the shop you can get the cheese made here as well as other regional specialities, and the bistro serves snacks, meals and desserts, mostly dairy. dair y. The The Schaukäserei is in the buildings of the splendid baroque abbey Engelberg, some of which can also be visited. Why not combine it with a visit

MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS A knight’s tombstone at the Forum of Swiss Histor y Schwyz.

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GLASSBLOWING FACTORY � GLASI HERGISWIL  The Glasi in Hergiswil is not just a museum: first and foremost it’s it’s a working glass factory where craftsmen blow glass objects such as vases, wine glasses or Christmas tree decorations. You can watch the glassblowers at work (they also work on Saturdays) and you can blow your own glass ball under supervision. super vision. There There are several exhibitions on the history of the factory and the physical properties of glass and a challenging glass maze. You can buy a large range of handmade glass products at the Glasi. After the visit sit down by the lakeside or in one of several restaurants. To get there take a train to Hergiswil or the ship (15min by train, longer if you take the ship), then it’s just five minutes’ walk from the railway station or the jetty.QSeestrasse 12, Hergiswil, tel. (+41) 41 632 32 32, www.glasi.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. Admission free except for the museum (7Sfr) and to the glass maze (5Sfr). Making your own glass ball costs 20Sfr. 46  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you, including sledging on snow tubes if you like. They also have a city tour to Zurich. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from outside the Tourist Information in Lucerne, which is located in the building of the main train station. Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50. lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Day trips the train back to Lucerne, changing trains in Meiringen.  The trip by car from Lucerne to Meiringen takes about an hour.QMeiringen Region, www.grimselwelt.ch, www.aareschlucht.ch. www.aareschlucht.ch. Reichenbach Falls funicular open 09:00 - 17:30, May 14 - Oct 9, 2016, return fare 10/8Sfr. Gorge Aareschlucht: open from April 15, 2016 (entrance Aareschlucht West) West) 08:30 - 17:30 and until 18:30 in July and August. In July & August floodit illumination on Thu, Fri, Sat until 22:00. 8.50/5Sfr. Combo tickets for the Reichenbach funicular and Aareschlucht 15/11Sfr.

RHEINFALL � EUROPE’S EU ROPE’S BIGGEST BIG GEST WATERFALL WATERFALL Say hello! One of the more curious inhabitants at Tierpark Goldau. PD

to famous Mount Titlis? The cable car starts in Engelberg too (see p. 34). The train ride from Lucerne to Engelberg takes 45min.QKlosterhof, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41 638 08 88, www.schaukaeserei-engelberg.ch. Mid-June to mid-October open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Otherwise daily 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free.

TIERPARK GOLDAU �WILDLIFE PARK� Bears, deers, lynx, wolves and vultures are just some of the more impressive animals you can see at this outdoor wildlife park. The 34 hectares of woodlands are strewn with huge rocks from the 1806 landslide which destroyed three villages, making it a spectacular though peaceful place. The animals are in generous enclosures, but some like deers can be fed and even touched. When you wander through the park you might meet rangers tending to or feeding animals. There are several barbecue spots with grills and tables, as well as a snack bar. Part of the park is accessible for wheel chairs, though you’ll need help every now and again! Dogs are not allowed. QParkstrasse 40, Goldau, tel. (+41) 41 859 06 06, www.tierpark.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 20/10Sfr, family tickets 55Sfr.

A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s biggest waterfall is north of Zurich, close to the city of Schaffhausen. The The water of the River Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres on a width of more than 150 metres. By train it’s easiest to approach the falls from Laufen. After a short walk you arrive at the visitor’s centre, an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3.50Sfr including access to the viewing platform) and the castle overlooking the fall. A boat takes you to the other side of the river (2/1Sfr) and from there to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (every ten minutes from 10:00 - 18:00 (11:00 - 17:00 in April and October), 12/6Sfr). Steps lead up the rock from where you get a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. On both sides of the river there are paths with lookout platforms and restaurants. A regular train connection from Lucerne, with changes in Zurich and Winterthur gets you to Schloss Laufen in 2h.QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch. www.rheinfall.ch.

OUTDOOR DESTINA DESTINATIONS TIONS GORGES, WATERFALLS WATERFALLS AND SHERLOCK SHE RLOCK HOLMES In one day you can visit two of mother nature’s impressive creations close to the town of Meiringen. At Reichenbach Falls literary figure Sherlock Holmes died in a fall from the observation platform above the 120 metre-high upper tier of the seven tiers of the waterfall. There is an exact replica of the original wooden funicular (the original was built in 1899) taking you up to the base of the waterfall with great views of the falls and the surroundings. The falls can be reached by taking a train from Lucerne to Meiringen (1h 15min) and then walking for 20 minutes or you can take a bus (5min) to the funicular. From the bottom of the waterfalls it’s an easy 20-minute walk to the renowned Aare Gorge, which is 1400 metres long and up to 200 metres deep. The series of public walkways and tunnels running alongside the gorge (45 minutes’ walk one way) was opened in the year 1888. From here you can take facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Switzerland in  the Maki M aking ng Tuee – Sun Tu Sun,, 10 –17 –17 h  www.foru  www .forumschwyz.ch mschwyz.ch .

 April - June 2016 47

Hotels Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand Hotels, Hotels , but there is accommodation for most other tastes and budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the weekend, so if you’re flexible check when you book. Generally bathrooms are private and Wi-fi is available in the rooms, we specify where either is not the case. Rooms and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some hotels have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area. In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to five by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse.  The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality.  The classifications are generally comparable. We We list hotels according to their classification in the following following categories: Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range *** and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from ** to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in unspoiled natural locations.  The prices indicated include VAT except if specified otherwise. City tax is approx. 3Sfr per night and is usually additional.

 The grand hotels on the lake lake promenade. iStock.com/Michał iStock.com/Michał Ludwiczak 

ART DECO HOTEL MONT MON TANA Built in 1910 in the beginning Art Déco style, the Montana has been carefully and comprehensively renovated, bringing out the best of the original clean-lined, but luxurious design. With its hillside location it has wonderful views across the lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are kept in a modern style with Art Déco accents. QE-2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. (+41) 41 419 00 00, fax (+41) 41 419 00 01, info@ hotel-montana.ch, www.hotel-montana.ch. 64 rooms.

CREAM OF THE CROP RENAISSANCE In a central location, the Renaissance occupies a substantial historic town-house with an ornate façade, behind which you’ll find the polished, contemporary design of an international hotel. Rooms are light with fabrics in warm, earthy hues and classic modern design accents. All rooms have flat-screen TVs, tea and coffee facilities and Wi-fi. QB-4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 87 87, fax (+41) 41 226 87 90, [email protected], www.renaissance-lucerne.com. 86 rooms. PAU

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CONTINENTAL�PARK  Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive rooms at the Continental-Park. Rooms are comprehensively comprehensively equipped e.g. with slippers slippers and an umbrella, apart from the standard flat-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The inhouse restaurant bellini serves ser ves Ticinese, Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss, and North-Italian specialities.QC-5, Murbacherstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 228 90 50, fax (+41) 41 228 90 58, [email protected], www.continental.ch. 92 rooms. PHA6ULKW hhhh

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SCHWEIZERHOF  The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof on the lake promenade has been setting standards in hospitality since 1845. Many rooms and all suites have breathtaking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The spacious, elegant rooms all have carpeted floors and classic furnishings. QC-3, Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 410 04 10, fax (+41) 41 410 29 71, info@ schweizerhof-luzern.ch, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms. PHAFKDwW hhhhh

SYMBOL KEY conditioning A Credit cards accepted P Air conditioning T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled

UPMARKET

F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

AMERON HOTEL FLORA

K Restaurant

u Nearest (trolley)bus station

D Sauna

W Wi-fi connection

6 Animal friendly

A-1 Map coordinates

 The Ameron Flora has a very central location just around the corner from the Chapel Bridge and the train station. QB-4, Seidenhofstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 227 66 66, fax (+41) 41 227 66 77, [email protected], www.flora-hotel.ch. 161 rooms. PHA6LKW

C Swimming pool

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Hotels GRAND HOTEL EUROPE

ROMANTIK HOTEL WILDEN MANN

 The Europe is one of the handful of grand hotels built in Lucerne at the turn of the 20th century. The comfortable rooms combine a recent, refined design in matching colour tones with occasional antique pieces. The in-house restaurant Bellevue offers dining in a rich, Belle-Epoque ambiance. There are spa and sports facilities including tennis and golf. QF-2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope, tel. (+41) 41 370 00 11, fax (+41) 41 370 10 31, info@ europe-luzern.ch, www.europe-luzern.ch. 169 rooms.

 The Wilden Wilden Mann is a thoughtful thoughtfully ly run hotel with a rich history of five hundred years which you can feel at every step. Though each room is different, all are warmly furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture with classic upholstery and carved wood and intricate parquet flooring. QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 16 66, fax (+41) 41 210 16 26, [email protected], www.wilden-mann.ch. 48 rooms. A6LKW hhhh

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MID-RANGE

HOTEL ASTORIA

AMBASSADOR

 The Astoria is in the centre of the busy new town, town, but very close to the river and the old town. The modern building was designed by Swiss star architects Herzog & de Meuron. QB-5, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. (+41) 41 226 88 00, fax (+41) 41 210 42 62, info@astoria-luzern. ch, www.astoria-luzern.ch. 252 rooms. PZHA6

 The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant, room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant Lapin.QC-2, Zürichstrasse 3, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 81 00, fax (+41) 41 418 81 90, [email protected], www.ambassador.ch. 39 rooms. A6LW hhh

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BELLEVUE  The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne a few 100m from the lake shore, but still only 12 minutes by bus from the centre. The clean, simple rooms have carpeted floors, large windows and many have a balcony with views of the mountains. They come with a flat-screen  TV, radio, telephone and minibar. minibar.QSeeburgstrasse 79, uHermitage, tel. te l. (+41) 41 371 27 27, fax (+41) 41 371 27 28, [email protected], www.bellevue-luzern.ch. 19 rooms. TA6FLDW hhh

DE LA PAIX

Rush hour on the lake?

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HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN Literally just across from the train station, the Monopol was built in 1899 and has a Parisian-inspired Parisian-inspired façade with ornate Rococo elements. The generously-sized rooms are kept in a classic design. They are all equipped with flat-screen satellite TV, TV, a minibar and a safe. There There is an in-house lounge and bar called Suite on the 7th floor. QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 226 43 43, fax (+41) 41 226 43 44, [email protected], www.monopolluzern. ch. 73 rooms. HA6LKW hhhh

RADISSON BLU  The modern monolith of the Radisson is situated just behind the train station, towards the lake. Inside, the design remains decidedly modern, with strong colours and organic shapes, though calmer in the rooms themselves. QD-5, Inseliquai 12, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 369 90 00, fax (+41) 41 369 90 01, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/hotel-lucerne. 189 rooms.

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 The De La Paix boasts a central location just on the edge of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood floors, TV, radio, safe and minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm colours and wood touches.QC-2, Museggstrasse 2, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 80 00, fax (+41) 41 418 81 90, [email protected], www.de-la-paix.ch. 39 rooms. HA6LKW hhh

 APARTMEN  AP ARTMENTS TS GLANDON APARTMENTS In the very centre of the city, Glandon offers 31 business apartments and 41 furnished apartments in classic style with stucco walls, behind an Art Nouveau facade. Every apartment has a separate bathroom, a  TV, wi-fi and a built-in kitchen. The minimum rental period is one month, the rent includes linen and towels, power-supply, heating, warm-water and a cleaning service every second week.QHofstrasse 9,11,14, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 501 50 50, www.glandon-apartments.com/lucerne. JW  April - June 2016 49

Hotels GARNI HOTEL DREI KÖNIGE

BUDGET

 The Drei Könige is in a quiet location about five minutes’ walk from the river Reuss, the old town and many sights. It occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story town house. The plain, clean rooms have furnishings with dark wood finishes and carpeted or parquet floors. They all have a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. An unusual asset is the huge model railway in the attic. It is possible to arrange a visit, but access is not guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists. QA-4, Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. (+41) 41 248 04 80, fax (+41) 41 248 04 90, hotel@ drei-koenige.ch, www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms.

HOTEL GARNI GA RNI SPATZ SPATZ Just 5 minutes by bus from the centre, the Spatz is a friendly, friendly, small alternative to town-centre accommodation. accommodation.  The light, plain rooms have large windows and wellmaintained bathrooms. bathrooms. Unfortunately, the road can be a bit noisy.QObergrundstrasse Obergrundstrasse 103, uEichhof, tel. (+41) 41 310 63 84, fax (+41) 41 310 10 84, [email protected], www.spatz-luzern.ch. AKW

IBIS LUZERN KRIENS

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 This  This branch branch of the well-kn well-known own budget budget hotel hotel chain chain offers offers the high standards of cleanliness and functionality one has come to expect. The optional buffet breakfast and all-day snacks are served in the generous lobby area. This Ibis is close to a motorway exit but not directly next to the motorway. QIndustriestrasse 13, Kriens, uOberkuonimatt, tel. (+41) 41 349 49 49, fax (+41) 41 349 49 00, [email protected], www.ibis.com. 69 rooms. A6LW hh

HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN  The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location is a well-run, friendly tourist hotel. The rooms are furnished in a straightforward style, with either hardwood floors or carpets. All rooms have private bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and flat-screen satellite TV and radio. QC-4, Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. (+41) 41 210 00 77, fax (+41) 41 210 89 44, [email protected], www.alpina-luzern.ch. www.alpina-luzern.ch.36 rooms.HA6LKW hhh

SONNENBERG Sonnenberg means ‘sun mountain’ and that describes this hotel and its bucolic location well. On a hill above Kriens, the Sonnenberg offers panoramic views of the lake and mountains. Public transport gets you to Lucerne in just under 30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. (+41) 41 320 66 44, [email protected], www.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. THA6LKW

IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate floors. They are all equipped with a flat-screen TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer.QC-2, Friedenstrasse 8, uLöwenplatz, tel. (+41) 41 418 48 48, fax (+41) 41 418 48 18, H8549@ accor.com, www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms. PTH

OUT OF TOWN HOTEL UND BILDUNGSZENTRUM MATT

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Set in the gentle, green hills west of Lucerne, the Matt is a hotel as well as a compact seminar and conference centre.  There are many many hiking options right on the doorstep. doorstep. Public Public transport gets you to Lucerne in half an hour.QMattstrasse 19, Schwarzenberg bei Luzern, tel. (+41) 41 499 70 99, fax (+41) 41 499 70 90, [email protected], [email protected], www.bzmatt.ch. 49 rooms. THA6ULKW

LUZERNERHOF  The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake and the Lion Monument. The rooms with laminate floors, colourful touches on the walls and straightforward furnishing all have a TV, a radio, a telephone and a hairdryer. Bathrooms have either a shower or bath.QC-2, Alpenstrasse 3, uLuzernerhof, tel. (+41) 41 418 47 47, fax (+41) 41 418 47 49, [email protected], www.luzernerhof.ch. www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms. PZALW hhh

SEMINARHOTEL SEMPACHERSEE  This hotel and conference conference centre is in quiet Nottwil, a village on the shores of Lake Sempach approx. 20km northwest of Lucerne. The The lake offers attractive walks - and windsurfing. With the free hotel shuttle and the train you can reach Lucerne’s centre in 25 min.QKantonsstrasse 46, Nottwil, tel. (+41) 41 939 23 23, fax (+41) 41 939 23 24, [email protected], www.dasseminarhotel.ch. 149 rooms. HA6UFLKCW hhh

HOSTEL LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL  This pleasan pleasantt youth hostel hostel is in a residential residential area on the edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets you to the centre of town in just 12 minutes. The hostel has a lounge area, a reading room, a children’s corner, a billiards table and table tennis outside. Rooms are in good condition, have parquet flooring and many look out onto the garden.QSedelstrasse 12, uJugendherberge, tel. (+41) 41 420 88 00, fax (+41) 41 420 56 16, [email protected], www.youthhostel.ch/luzern. 45 rooms. THAULK 50  Lucerne In Lucerne In Your Pocket

VILLA HONEGG If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break, this small boutique five-star superior hotel is located on Mount Bürgenstock, 20 minutes’ drive from Lucerne. E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests to explore the surroundings.QHonegg, Ennetbürgen, tel. (+41) 41 618 32 00, [email protected], www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms.

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Index 1871 16 Adventure Rooms 32 Aeschbachs Chocowelt 37 Alfred Caffebar 22 Alpineum 30 Alpineum Kaffeehaus Bar 24 Ambassador 49 Ameron Hotel Flora 48 Ampersand 19 Art Deco Hotel Montana 48 Authentic Swiss Tour Lucerne 30 Barbatti 18 Bar Berlin 23 Barbès 18 Bellevue 49 Besito Milonga 25 Boat rental 14 Bookbinders Design 38 Bourbaki Panorama 30 Boutique Mai 39 Brasserie Bodu 17 Brienzer Rothorn by steam train and cable car 34 Brooklyn Club and Lounge 25 Brüggli 26 Bucherer 42 Bürgenstock - Lake Lookout 34 Burgerstube (Hotel Wilden Mann) 20 Café de Ville 22 Cafeteria Arlecchino 22 Casagrande Gift Shop 41 Casineum 25 Changemaker 38 Charles Vögele 39 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 42 Confiserie Bachmann Chocolate-Land 40 Continental-Park 48 Coop City 39 De La Paix 49 Die Handlung 39 Die Kneipe 24 Die Stiefväter 38 Embassy 42 Emmen Center 41 Engelberg - Titlis Rotair 34 Felsenegg Garten Restaurant 19 Fish market 32 Fondue House 20 Forum Schweizer Geschichte Schwyz 30, 30, 46 Franziskanerkirche 28 Frigay Night (at the Loft Club) 24 Garni Hotel Drei Könige 50 Glandon Apartments 49 Glassblowing Factory - Glasi Hergiswil 46 Gletschergarten 31 Golden Pass - Panoramic Train 46 Gorges, Waterfalls and

Sherlock Holmes 47 Gourmindia 16 Grand Casino Luzern 23 Grand Hotel Europe 49 Grieder 39 Gübelin 42 Guided city walk 30 Guided Titlis tour 30 Haifish Bar 24 Hallenbad Allmend 37 Harry's Souvenir Shop 41 Hess Uhren 42 Historical museum 37 Hotel ALPINA Luzern 50 Hotel Astoria 49 Hotel Garni Spatz 50 Hotel MONOPOL Luzern 49 Hotel und Bildungszentrum Matt 50 House of Chronoswiss 43 Ibis Luzern Kriens 50 Ibis Styles Luzern City 50 Jazzkantine 22 Jeff's Burger 17 Jesuitenkirche 27 Kaiten Sushi-Bar 16 Kapellbrücke & Wasserturm (Chapel Bridge) 27 Karel Korner 23 KKL Lucerne 28 Klub Kegelbahn 26 Kofler 40 Kunstmuseum Luzern 31 Kurz Jewellery & Watches 43 Lake Lucerne cruises 29 L'art du thé 40 Les Ambassadeurs 43 Live cheese making Schaukäserei Engelberg 46 Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument) 28 Lucerne museum card / Lion Pass 27 Luzernerhof 50 Luzern Youth Hostel 50 Luz Seebistro 22 Mammut Store 40 Manor 39 Marc O'Polo 39 Mount Rigi 34 Museggmauer 28 Nachbar 23 Peperoncini Obergrund 24 Pilatus 35 Pilatus Seilpark 37 Portofino 18 Queerbad (at Neubad) 24 Radisson Blu 49 Renaissance 48 Restaurant RED 17 Reusssteg fleamarket 32 Rheinfall - Europe's biggest waterfall 47 Richard Wagner Museum 31 Roadhouse 26

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 The Fritschi house in Lucerne’ Lucerne’s old town. Rok (Ameron Hotel Flora) 26 Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann 49 Ruckli 43 Salsa 59 25 Sammlung Rosengart 32 Saphir boat tour 30 Schilthorn - Piz Gloria 36 Schmocker Souvenirs 41 Schüür 25 Schweizer Heimatwerk 41 Schweizerhof 48 Seebad 14 Seminarhotel Sempachersee 50 SNG Lake Lucerne Cruises 29 Sonnenberg 50 Spreuerbrücke 28 Stadtkeller 21 Stanserhorn 36 St.Magdalena Bar and Restaurant 23

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Stocker Books 38 Stoos 36 Strandbad Tribschen 14 Sunset Bar 14 Surviving Underground Sonnenberg Bunker Tours 32 Swiss Corner Fresco 41 Swiss Time Corner 43 Syrtaki Greek Tavern 19  The Bruch Brothers 25 tibits 16  Tierpark Goldau 47  Treibhaus 25 Verkehrshaus 32 Villa Honegg 50 Vom Fass 40 Weisses Schloss 18 Wilhelm Tell (Schiffrestaurant) 21 Wirtshaus Galliker 21 Wirtshaus Reussfähre 21 Wirtshaus Taube 21

FEATURES FEA TURES INDEX Adult entertainment Bourbaki Breakfast Cheese restaurants Classical dancing Decoding the menu Lake Lucerne Live music venues Luzern or Lucerne? Queer Lucerne Swiss cuisine  Tax free shopping shopping

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R E G U L AT E Y O U R T I M E

www.chronoswiss.com t he Lion monume monument  nt  Löwenstrasse Löwenstrass e 16B • 6004 Luzern – You will fi nd us near the

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