Lonely Planet Istanbul

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

İstanbul “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Virginia Maxwell

Contents Plan PlanYour YourTrip Trip page 1

4

Welcome to İstanbul.......4

If You Like.......................18

Eating.......................... 26

İstanbul’s Top 10.............6

Month by Month............ 21

What's New.................... 13

With Kids....................... 23

Drinking & Nightlife ......................31

Need to Know................ 14

Like a Local................... 24

Top Itineraries............... 16

For Free......................... 25

Explore İstanbul  Neighbourhoods at a Glance........................... 42 Sultanahmet & Around........................... 44 Bazaar District............. 83

Hamams & Spas........ 38

40

Western Districts........102

Üsküdar........................146

Beyoğlu........................ 113

Ferry Trips from İstanbul....................... 150

Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme..................139

Understand İstanbul İstanbul Today............. 176

Shopping..................... 34

175

History..........................178 Architecture.................186

Survival Guide 

197

Transport..................... 198

Language.................... 208

Directory A–Z............. 203

Index............................. 219

İstanbul Maps 

Sleeping......................165

228

İstanbul on Page & Screen..........................192

IZZET KERIBAR ©

GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

GEORGE TSAFOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

(left) Grand Bazaar p85 Colourful lamps for sale (above) Beyoğlu p113 Traditional meyhane (Turkish tavern) (right) Aya Sofya p46 Colourful decoration inside

Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme p139

Western Districts p102

Beyoğlu p113 Üsküdar p146

Bazaar District p83

Sultanahmet & Around p44

IZZET KERIBAR/GETTY IMAGES ©

40

Explore İstanbul Neighbourhoods at a Glance. . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Beyoğlu . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

Ferry Trips from İstanbul . . . . . . 150

Sultanahmet & Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117

The Bosphorus. . . . . . . . . . . 151

Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

The Golden Horn . . . . . . . . . 159

Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 131

Princes’ Islands . . . . . . . . . . 162

Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 79

Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme. . . . . . . 139

Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

Bazaar District. . . . . . 83 Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 97 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

Top Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . 144 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

Üsküdar. . . . . . . . . . . 146

Western Districts. . . 102

Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Eating & Drinking. . . . . . . . . 110

Eating & Drinking. . . . . . . . . 149

Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . 165

41

İSTANBUL’S TOP SIGHTS Aya Sofya. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Aya Sofya........................... 46

Topkapı Palace. . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Topkapı Palace...................53

Blue Mosque. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Istanbul Archaeology Museums. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Basilica Cistern . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Grand Bazaar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Süleymaniye Mosque . . . . . . 88 Spice Bazaar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) . . . . . . . . . . 104 İstiklal Caddesi. . . . . . . . . . . 115 İstanbul Modern. . . . . . . . . . 116 Dolmabahçe Palace. . . . . . . 141

Blue Mosque..................... 64 Istanbul Archaeology Museums........................... 66 Basilica Cistern................. 68 Grand Bazaar.....................85 Süleymaniye Mosque....... 88 Spice Bazaar..................... 90 Karİye Museum (Chora Church)................104

Beylerbeyi Palace. . . . . . . . . 152

İstiklal Caddesi..................115

Hıdiv Kasrı. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

İstanbul Modern................116

Rahmi M Koç Museum . . . . 159

Dolmabahçe Palace..........141

228

İstanbul Maps

Map Legend

Sights

Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight

Eating

Sports & Activities

Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Sports & Activities

Information

Post Office Tourist Information

Transport

Sleeping

Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Underground Train Station

Camping

Other Transport

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking & Nightlife Cafe

Entertainment

Entertainment

Shopping

Shopping

Sleeping

Routes

Tollway

Geographic

Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps

Hydrography

River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier

Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path

Boundaries

International State/Province

Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Areas

Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

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MEYDANı 0 0 0 Sultanahmet 00 0 Park

CAĞALOĞLU

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ÇUKURCUMA

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Maçka Park

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1

1 BOZKURT

BEYOĞLU

1

1

1

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KADIRGA

1

" Ð 3

1

GALATA

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00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0000

KUMKAPI

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9 Kariye Museum (p104)

8 Üsküdar (p146)

7 Western Districts (p102)

6 Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kuruçeşme (p139)

5 Beyoğlu – Southwest (p113)

4 Beyoğlu – Northeast (p113)

3 Bazaar District (p83)

2 Sultanahmet & Around – South (p44)

1 Sultanahmet & Around – North (p44)

MAP INDEX

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æ Top Sights (p000) (p46) ú Eating (p000) (p76) Ø Sports & Activities (p000) (p82) Aya Sofya ....................... B4 Caferağa Medresesi 18 Aya İrini ..........................C4 Basilica Cistern ............. B4 Lokanta & Çay 19 Cağaloğlu Hamamı ....... A3 İstanbul Archaeology Bahçesi.............. (see 24) 9 Cihannüma .................... B4 ÿ Sleeping Museums .................... C3 (p000) (p168) Topkapı Palace.............. C3 10 Fasuli Lokantaları.......... A2 20 Agora Life Hotel ............ A3 Hafız Mustafa ......(see 10) And Hotel ................(see 9) æ Sights (p000) (p69) 11 Hocapaşa Pidecisi......... A2 21 Ayasofya Konakları.......C4 1 Alay Köşkü ..................... B3 12 Karakol Restaurant.......C4 22 Cheers Hostel................ B4 2 Caferağa Medresesi ..... B4 13 Konyalı Lokantası.......... A2 23 Neorion Hotel ................ B2 3 Fountain of Sultan Matbah ................. (see 24) 24 Ottoman Hotel Ahmet III...................... C4 14 Paşazade........................ B3 Imperial ....................... B4 4 Gülhane Park................. B3 15 Sefa Restaurant ............ A4 25 Sirkeci Konak................. B3 5 Imperial Gate................. C4 6 İstanbul Museum of û Drinking & Nightlife Nightlife(p000) (p80) the History of 16 Kybele Cafe.................... B4 Science & 17 Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi... D2 Technology in Islam ............................ B2 ý Entertainment (p000) (p80) 7 Soğukçeşme Sokak...... C4 Hocapaşa Culture 8 Sublime Porte................ B3 Centre..................(see 11)

2 31

SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH Map on p232 æ Top Sights (p64) Blue Mosque ............................................. D4

31 Cocoon.......................................................D5 32 Galeri Kayseri .............................................B1

  SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH SULTANAHMET & AROUND - SOUTH

33 Iznik Classics & Tiles................................. E4 æ Sights (p69) 34 Jennifer's Hamam..................................... E5 1 Aya Sofya Tombs ...................................... F2 35 Khaftan ...................................................... C5 2 Great Palace Mosaic Museum..................E5 36 Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery.......................D5 3 Hippodrome...............................................C3 37 Tulu ............................................................B4 4 Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain ........................D2 38 Yilmaz Ipekçilik..........................................H4 5 Lâle Pastanesi (Pudding Shop)................D2 6 Little Aya Sofya..........................................A6 Ø Sports & Activities (p81) 7 Marmara University Republican 39 Ambassador Spa....................................... D1 Museum ..................................................B4 40 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı........... F2 8 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts...........C3 41 İstanbul Walks ........................................... C5 9 Nakkaş........................................................C5 42 Les Arts Turcs ........................................... D1 10 Obelisk of Theodosius...............................C4 Müzenin Kahvesi ................................(see 8) 11 Rough-Stone Obelisk ................................C4 43 Urban Adventures..................................... D1 12 Sokollu Şehit Mehmet Paşa Mosque.......A4 (p168) 13 Sphendone.................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping 14 Spiral Column ............................................C4 44 Acra Hotel.................................................. F5 15 Tomb of Sultan Ahmet I............................D3 45 Bahaus Hostel ........................................... F4 46 Dersaadet Hotel ........................................D6 ú Eating (p76) 47 Emine Sultan Hotel ...................................D6 16 Ahırkapı Balıkçısı ....................................... F6 48 Erten Konak............................................... E6 17 Balıkçı Sabahattin .....................................G5 49 Grand Peninsula........................................G4 18 Çiğdem Pastanesi ..................................... B1 50 Hanedan Hotel ..........................................G3 19 Cooking Alaturka....................................... F5 51 Hotel Alp ...................................................G3 20 Hafız Mustafa.............................................D2 52 Hotel Empress Zoe ...................................G3 21 Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu ...... C1 53 Hotel Ibrahim Pasha ................................B4 22 Teras Restaurant...................................... H5 Hotel Nomade ..................................(see 26) 54 Hotel Peninsula .........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p79) 55 Hotel Şebnem............................................G3 23 Cafe Meşale ...............................................E4 56 Hotel Uyan İstanbul .................................. F3 24 Denizen Coffee ..........................................B4 57 Marmara Guesthouse...............................G3 25 Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi ............................E3 58 Metropolis Hostel......................................G4 26 Hotel Nomade Terrace Bar....................... D1 59 Motif Apartments......................................G3 27 Yeni Marmara ............................................C6 60 Sarı Konak Hotel ....................................... F5 28 Yeşil Ev ....................................................... F3 61 Sultans Royal Hotel...................................C6 62 Tan Hotel ....................................................C1 þ Shopping (p80) 29 Arasta Bazaar ............................................E4 30 Cankurtaran Produce Market ..................C5

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BEYOĞLU - NORTHEAST Map on p236

BEYOĞLU NORTHEAST   

æ Top Sights (p115) İstiklal Caddesi............................................C5

41 Dogzstar ...................................................... C5 42 Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi............................ B5 43 Indigo ........................................................... B6

æ Sights (p117) 44 Jolly Joker ................................................... C5 1 Akbank Art Centre......................................D4 45 Kiki................................................................ E5 2 ARTER ..........................................................B7 46 Litera ............................................................B6 3 Atatürk Cultural Centre .............................F4 47 Manda Batmaz............................................ B6 4 Atatürk Library............................................G2 Mikla................................................... (see 76) 5 Avrupa Pasajı...............................................B5 48 MiniMüzikHol .............................................. E6 6 Balık Pazarı ..................................................B5 49 Münferit .......................................................C6 NuTeras ..............................................(see 12) 7 Çiçek Pasajı .................................................B5 8 Firuz Ağa Camii ...........................................D6 50 Off Pera........................................................ A6 9 Galatasaray Lycée ......................................C6 51 Perla Kallâvi Nargile Cafe..........................B6 10 Galerı Apel....................................................C6 52 Tek Yön ........................................................ E5 11 Galerı Nev ...................................................B6 53 Urban ........................................................... C5 12 Galerist.........................................................A6 54 White Mill......................................................E7 13 Pera Museum ..............................................A6 14 Pera Palace Hotel .......................................A7 ý Entertainment (p135) 15 SALT Beyoğlu..............................................B6 55 Garajistanbul............................................... B6 16 Taksim Meydanı..........................................E3 56 Munzur Cafe & Bar..................................... D5 57 Toprak.......................................................... D5 ú Eating (p124) 17 Asmalı Canım Ciğerim ...............................A7 þ Shopping (p136) 18 Brasserie La Brise.......................................A7 58 A La Turca ................................................... D5 19 Changa ......................................................... E5 59 Ali Muhıddin Hacı Bekir .............................D4 20 Çokçok .........................................................A6 60 Beyoğlu Olgunlaşma Enstıtüsü ................D4 21 Datlı Maya ....................................................D6 61 Denizler Kitabevi......................................... B7 22 Demeti.......................................................... E7 62 İstanbul Kitapçısı........................................ B6 23 Enstitü ..........................................................A6 63 La Cave Wine Shop ....................................D6 24 Feraye...........................................................C5 64 Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama........................D6 25 Gani Gani Şark Sofras ................................D5 65 Mariposa.......................................................E7 26 Hacı Abdullah ..............................................C4 66 Mephisto...................................................... C5 27 Jash...............................................................F6 67 Pandora .......................................................D4 28 Kafe Ara........................................................B6 Paşabahçe......................................... (see 73) 29 Kallavi ...........................................................D4 68 Petek Turşuları ........................................... B5 30 Kitchenette ..................................................E4 69 Reşat Balık Market .................................... B5 31 Medı Şark Sofrası........................................D5 70 Robinson Crusoe........................................ B6 32 Meze by Lemon Tree..................................A7 71 Sütte Şarküteri .......................................... B5 33 Midpoint .......................................................B6 72 Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını ..................... B5 Mikla ...................................................(see 76) 73 Tezgah Alley................................................ B7 34 Saray Muhallebicisi.....................................C5 Üç Yıldız Şekerleme .......................... (see 71) Zencefil...............................................(see 35) 35 Zübeyir Ocakbaşı........................................D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p138) 74 Ağa Hamamı ............................................... D5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p131) Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic 360....................................................... (see 11) Monument) .....................................(see 16) 36 5 Kat..............................................................E6 Istanbul Culinary Institute............... (see 23) 37 Araf ...............................................................C4 38 Bigudi Cafe ..................................................D4 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 39 Büyük Londra Oteli Bar..............................A6 75 Chambers of the Boheme......................... D5 Cafe Susam .......................................(see 22) 76 Marmara Pera............................................. A6 40 Club 17..........................................................D4 Pera Palace Hotel..............................(see 14)

2 39

BEYOĞLU - SOUTHWEST Map on p240 æ Top Sights (p116) İstanbul Modern.......................................... F3

33 Cafe Gündoğdu...........................................C4 34 Le Fumoir .................................................... D3

 BEYOĞLU SOUTHWEST 

35 Leb-i Derya .................................................. D2 æ Sights (p117) 36 Leb-i Derya Richmond...............................D2 1 Arab Mosque ...............................................B4 37 Mavra ........................................................... D3 2 Azapkapı Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii....A4 38 Sensus Wine Bar ........................................ C3 3 Botter House ...............................................C2 39 Smyrna ......................................................... F1 4 Christ Church ..............................................D3 40 Tophane Nargile Cafes ...............................F3 5 Depo .............................................................E3 41 Waterfront Çay Bahçesis ..........................H2 6 Galata Mevlevi Museum.............................C2 42 X Bar............................................................. B2 7 Galata Tower ...............................................C4 8 Jewish Museum of Turkey.........................C5 ý Entertainment (p135) 9 Kasa Galeri...................................................C4 43 Babylon........................................................ C2 10 Museum of Innocence.................................E1 Galata Mevlevi Museum .....................(see 6) 11 Patisserie Lebon .........................................C2 44 Nardis Jazz Club.........................................C4 12 SALT Galata.................................................C4 Salon .................................................. (see 42) 13 Schneidertempel Art Center.....................C4 þ Shopping (p136) ú Eating (p124) 45 Artrium.........................................................C2 14 Antiochia......................................................C2 46 Arzu Kaprol ................................................. C3 15 Asmalı Cavit................................................. C1 47 Bahar Korçan.............................................. C3 Ca' d'Oro .............................................(see 12) 48 Berrin Akyüz.................................................G1 16 Fasuli Lokantaları........................................ F3 49 Dear East ..................................................... D3 17 Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı ...........................C3 50 Hammam.....................................................C4 18 Galata House...............................................C4 51 İroni ..............................................................C4 19 Galata Konak Patisserie Cafe....................C4 52 İstanbul Modern Gift Shop.........................F3 20 Güney Restaurant.......................................C3 53 Lâl ................................................................. C4 21 Helvetia Lokanta .........................................C2 54 Lale Plak.......................................................C2 22 İstanbul Modern Cafe/Restaurant........... F3 55 Selda Okutan .............................................. E4 23 Journey .........................................................F1 56 SIR ................................................................D2 24 Karaköy Güllüoğlu ......................................D5 25 Karaköy Lokantası......................................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p171) 26 Kiva Han .......................................................C3 Anemon Galata................................. (see 38) 27 Lokanta Maya..............................................E4 57 Ansen Suites ............................................... C2 28 Namlı ............................................................D5 58 Beş Oda .......................................................D2 29 Sofyalı 9 .......................................................C2 59 Galateia Residence..................................... D2 30 The House Café...........................................C2 60 Manzara Istanbul........................................ C3 61 Serdar-ı Ekrem 59 ...................................... D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p131) 62 TomTom Suites...........................................D1 31 Atölye Kuledıbı ............................................C4 63 Witt Istanbul Hotel ......................................F2 32 Baylo.............................................................C2 64 World House Hostel ................................... C3

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æ Top Sights Sights (p000) (p141) ú Eating (p000) (p143) 1 Çırağan Dolmabahçe Palace Palace....................................A5 ............................................D4 8 7 Banyan..........................................................F3 2 Dolmabahçe Palace....................................A5 House Cafe...........................................(see 8) 7) æ Sights 3 Hatice Sultan Yalı........................................G2 (p142) 9 8 Kitchenette...................................................F3 41 Çırağan Naval Museum Palace ............................................D4 ............................................B5 10 9 Vogue ........................................................... A4 2 5 Hatice OrtaköySultan Mosque Yalı........................................G2 .........................................G3 Zuma ................................................... ...................................................(see (see 18) 17) 6 3 Naval Tomb Museum of Barbarossa...................................C4 ............................................B5 4 7 Yıldız Ortaköy Park Mosque ....................................................D2 .........................................G3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p000) (p144) 5 Tomb of Barbarossa...................................C4 Anjelique ............................................. .............................................(see (see 18) 17) 6 Yıldız Park ....................................................D2 10 11 Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel.............. D4

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12 11 Reina............................................................ G2 Ø Sports & Activities 13 Sortie ............................................................ H1 12 14 13 Supperclub ................................................. G2

(p000) (p145) Bosphorus Tours................................ Tours.................................(see (see 4) 5) Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus .......................................(see ....................................... (see 16) 17)

ý Entertainment (p000) (p144) 14 15 İstanbul Jazz Center................................... F3 ÿ Sleeping (p000) (p173) 16 17 Four Seasons Istanbul at the þ Shopping (p000) (p145) Bosphorus ................................................D4 16 15 Haremlique ................................................. B4 House Hotel..........................................(see Hotel......................................... (see 8) 7) 18 17 Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel................. F3

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æ Top Sights Sights (p000) (p104) 1 Church Kariye Museum of St Mary (Chora of theChurch) Mongols........... ............. D4 B3 2 Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars ...... D3 æ Sights (p107) 3 Fethiye Museum ........................................ C4 1 1 Church of St Mary of the Mongols........... D4 4 Kariye Museum (Chora Church) ............. B3 2 Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars ...... D3 5 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı......................... A4 3 Fethiye Museum ........................................ C4 6 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ......................... A4 4 Mihrimah Sultan Hamamı......................... A4 7 Palace of Constantine 5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ......................... A4 Porphyrogenitus ..................................... B2 1 6 Palace of Constantine 8 Patriarchal Church of St George ............. D3 1 Porphyrogenitus..................................... B2 9 Sultan Selim Mosque ................................D4 7 Patriarchal Church of St George ............. D3 21 8 Sultan Selim Mosque ................................D4 ú Eating (p000) 1 10 Asitane ........................................................ B3 1 ú Eating (p110) 11 Köfteci Arnavut .......................................... D3 9 Asitane ........................................................ B3 1 12 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi............................ D3 10 Köfteci Arnavut .......................................... D3 1 11 Tarihi Haliç İşkembecisi............................ D3 1 eb e

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Servı 1 lık C 1 ad 1 1 1 SELMANAĞA Ki r iş 1 1 1 1 1 › # 1 çi 1 1 1 1 1 Turyol Ferries to Eminönü & Karaköy S ß # k # 1 1 1 1 1 Ferries to Beşiktaş f 5 8 1 1 1 1 1 # Ferries to Eminönü & Golden Horn f 1 1 1 1 1 ú # r ese d f # a #6 # ß S 9ü Ca k 1 1 1 1 1 k ı Pa Paş a Li m Şe 1 1 1 1 1 a nSOLAK m 1 1 1 1 S1 Sk S el m T o p s SİNAN el anik liler # h an e 7ß Sela k Ca i Pa l i ş d m o rS Ü sküd a ğ l i u a r A M ah keme 3 Ham li Efendi RUMİ Arka Cad m sı S k d a MEHMET m S Sel am -i Ali Efendi Ca k TEMBEL PAŞA HACI 2 MEHMET GÜLFEM #2 AYAZMA E ß HATUN Kuşoǧlu Sk n f iy hi Sk e h an Şah Ru eS # Sk ò k Aç rb e Z ü ı e k T n c iler Yen i yol S k SALACAK á4 # TOYGAR HAMZA Boat to f # Salac Kız Kulesi C ad Çavuşdere Ca d Fe TABAKLAR

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æ Sights (p148) 1 Atik Valide Mosque.................................D3

2 Ayazma Mosque .....................................B2

3 Çinili Mosque ........................................... E3

5 Mihrimah Sultan Mosque ...................... C1

4 Kız Kulesi..................................................A3

7 Yeni Valide Mosque ................................C2

6 Şemsi Ahmed Paşa Mosque ................. B1

ú Eating (p149) 8 Kanaat Lokantası.................................... C1

û Drinking & Nightlife (p149) 9 Mistanbul Hancı Cafe ............................. B1

i)

24 6

38

1 3 A

K ARIYE MUSEUM 

5B

2

4

5A

7 B 9B

6

8

9A

Outer Narthex

Exit 11

10

C 12

13B

13A

KARIYE MUSEUM (CHORA CHURCH)

36

39 G 40 34 37 35 41b 41a

Annex

50C

43 H 44 42 45B

45A

47 I 48 46

Nave

50A

Apse

49B 49A 32 29

Inner Narthex

15 D 14 16 17B 17A

31

19 E 18

30 26B

50B

J 33 27 28 26A

20 77 68

22 21 F 24

78 76

K 25

23

P 7473

65 U 69 72

75

67

60

57

Parecclesion

70

56 O 64 63 62 59

71 66

61

58

53

L N M 51 55 54 52

Entrance

æ Mosaics 1 The voyage of the Virgin to Bethlehem & the dream of Joseph 2 The census held for the enrolment for taxation & registration of Mary & Joseph in the presence of Cyrenius, Governor of Syria 3 Jesus going with Mary & Joseph to Jerusalem 4 Remains of mosaics – Jesus among the doctors in the temple 5A St Trachos 5B St Andronikus 6 The birth of Jesus 7 The return of the Virgin Mary with Jesus 8 The attempts of Satan to deceive Jesus 9A St Georgios 9B St Demetrius 10 Jesus & the inscription ‘the dwelling-place of the living’ 11 The prayer of the Virgin & the attendant angels 12 The wedding at Cana & the miracles 13A Depiction of the saints 13B Depiction of the saints 14 The Magi on their way to Jerusalem riding on horseback & the three Magi in audience with King Herod

15 Elizabeth & John the Baptist running away

from a pursuing soldier 16 Remains of mosaics 17A Depiction of the saints 17B Depiction of the saints 18 The scene of King Herod’s investigation & a

guard standing 19 The mourning mothers 20 No mosaics left 21 A decorative medallion 22 The meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan

woman at the well 23 The healing of a paralysed person by Jesus 24 King Herod giving the order for the

25 26A 26B 27 28 29 30

massacre of the innocents & the execution thereof Remains of mosaics The healing by Jesus of a young man with an injured arm The healing by Jesus of leprous man Twenty-four of the early ancestors of Jesus (Genealogy of Christ) The healing by Jesus of a woman asking for the restoration of her health The healing by Jesus of the mother-in-law of St Peter The healing by Jesus of a deaf person

247

31 Dispersion of good health by Jesus to the 32 33 35 36 37 38 39 40 41A 41B 42 43 44 45A 45B 46 47 48 49A 49B 50A 50B 50C

æ Frescoes 51 The Anastasis 52 The Church Fathers 53 The raising (resurrection) of the widow's son) 54 The healing of the daughter of Jairus 55 The Virgin Elousa 56 The Last Judgment 57 Abraham & the beggar Lazarus on his lap 58 St George 59 Rich man burning in Hell's fire 60 Those entering Heaven & the Angel Seraphim with the semi-nude good thief. 61 Depiction of Andronikus II & his family & the inscription & depiction above of Makarios Tornikes & his wife Eugenia 62 The Bearing of the Ark of the Covenant 63 St Demetrius 64 St Theodore Tiro 65 Mary & Child Jesus with the 12 attending angels 66 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Cosmos 67 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St John of Damascene 68 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Theophanes 69 Four Gospel Writers (Hymnographers): St Joseph 70 St Theodore Stratelates 71 King Solomon & the Israelites 72 Placement into the temple of the Ark of the Covenant 73 The combat of an angel with the Asurians in the outskirts of Jerusalem. 74 St Procopios, St Sabas Stratelates 75 Moses in the bushes 76 Jacob's ladder & the angels 77 Aaron & his sons carrying votive offerings, in front of the altar 78 St Samonas & guiras

 K ARIYE MUSEUM 

34

people The healing by Jesus of two blind men The Khalke Jesus & the praying Virgin The Virgin & the Child Jesus Joachim in the mountains praying to have a child No mosaics left The breaking of the good news of the birth of Jesus to Mary – The Annunciation The chief priest Zacchariah judging the Virgin Mary & Joseph bidding each other farewell The breaking of the good news of the birth of Mary to Anne The meeting of Anne & Joachim Joseph bringing the Virgin into his house Mary in the arms of Anne & Joachim & the blessing by the priests Giving of the stick with young shoots indicating Joseph as Mary’s fiancé The birth of the Virgin Mary The first seven steps of the Virgin & below, St Peter The prayer of the chief priest Zacchariah in front of the 12 sticks The presentation of Mary (age three) to the temple by her parents The Virgin taking the skeins of wool to weave the veil for the temple Theodore Metochites presenting a small model of the church to Jesus The feeding of the Virgin by an angel & below, St Peter Remains of mosaics – Directives given to the Virgin at the temple The Assumption of the Virgin Mary & the Child Jesus Jesus in a standing posture, holding the Bible in his hand

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writer Virginia Maxwell

Although based in Australia, Virginia spends much of her year researching guidebooks in the Mediterranean countries. Of these, Turkey is unquestionably her favourite. As well as working on the previous three editions of this city guide, she is also the author of Lonely Planet’s İstanbul pocket guide and the İstanbul chapter of Lonely Planet’s Turkey guide, and she writes about the city for a host of international magazines and websites. Virginia usually travels with partner Peter and son Max, who have grown to love Turkey as much as she does. Read more about Virginia at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxell

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 7th edition – February 2013 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 961 3 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

16

Top Itineraries Day One

Day Two

Sultanahmet & Around

Bazaar District

M

Head to Aya Sofya Meydanı (Square) and work out which of the museums and mosques in the immediate area will be on your visiting list. Don’t miss Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. Lunch Cihannüma offers Ottoman dishes and stupendous views.

ready to explore the city’s famous M Get bazaar district. After exploring the labyrinthine lanes and hidden caravanserais of the world-famous Grand Bazaar, make your way to the most magnificent of all Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye. Lunch Eateries, including Bahar and Onur, surround the Grand Bazaar.

Sultanahmet & Around

Bazaar District

Diverge from the tourist trail and visit some of Sultanahmet’s hidden highlights. Source some souvenirs in the historic Arasta Bazaar, where you can browse in carpet, handicraft and bathwares shops.

R of local shoppers making their way

R

Dinner Hamdi serves delicious kebaps and has magnificent views.

Sultanahmet & Around After enjoying an early dinner, make your way to Sirkeci, where you can watch dervishes whirl at Hocapaşa Cultural Centre, a converted 15th-century hamam. Alternatively, claim a table at Derviş Aile Çay Bahçesi or Cafe Meşale, where you can enjoy tea, nargile and a free (but very touristy) whirling-dervish performance.

N

After lunch, follow the steady stream

down the hill to the Spice Bazaar. While there, seek out the exquisite Rüstem Paşa Mosque, camouflaged in the midst of a busy produce market. As the sun starts to set, walk across the Galata Bridge towards the eating and entertainment district of Beyoğlu. Dinner Meyhanes (taverns) and restaurants aplenty in Beyoğlu.

Beyoğlu Start with a pre-dinner drink in one

N of Beyoğlu’s rooftop bars and then

move on to dinner in a meyhane (tavern) or a stylish restaurant serving Modern Turkish cuisine. After dinner, kick on to a club or wind down at the Tophane nargile cafes.

17

Day Four

Sultanahmet & Around

The Bosphorus

M

It’s time to investigate the lifestyles of the sultans at Topkapı Palace. You’ll need a half day to explore the palace Harem, marvel at the precious objects in the Treasury and wander through the pavilion-filled grounds. Lunch Matbah serves Ottoman food in a pleasant garden setting.

Western Districts Take the Golden Horn (Haliç) ferry to Ayvansaray and then walk along the historic land walls to Edirnekapı so that you can admire the exquisite mosaics and frescoes that adorn almost every surface of Kariye Museum, a former Byzantine church. If you’re keen to see more mosaics, the Fethiye Museum is a short walk away.

R

Dinner Asmalımescit, in Beyoğlu, has bars and traditional meyhanes.

Sultanahmet & the Bazaar District You’ve spent a full day sightseeing,

N so why not relax in the steamy sur-

rounds of an Ottoman-era hamam (Turkish bath) after dinner? Afterwards, head back across the Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu so that you can sample more of its nightlife options.

the Uzun Boğaz Turu M Board (Long Bosphorus Tour) to spend

a full day exploring this culturally and architecturally rich waterway. After admiring the historic yalıs (waterside timber mansions) along its shores, alight from the ferry at Sarıyer and make your way back to town by bus, visiting museums and monuments along the way. Lunch MüzedeChanga – scenic terrace and Modern Turkish cuisine.

Beyoğlu If you decided to take a 90-minute

R cruise on a Bosphorus excursion

boat rather than the full-day trip, you can devote the afternoon to investigating Beyoğlu’s exciting contemporary-art scene. Don’t miss the İstanbul Modern museum and the ARTER and SALT cultural centres. Dinner Stylish Lokanta Maya showcases Modern Aegean cooking.

Beyoğlu Wander the streets surrounding the

N Galata Tower, admiring the build-

ing stock, browsing in boutiques and perhaps enjoying an aperitif. Then move on to Lokanta Maya, a stylish showcase of Modern Aegean cooking in Karaköy, followed by a sweet finale at İstanbul’s most famous baklava shop, Karaköy Güllüoğlu.

PL AN YOUR TRIP To p I ti n e r a r ies

Day Three

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