Ljepljenje Guma - Reket Za Stoni Tenis

Uvod: Mnogi smatraju da je proces ljepljenja gume za stranice reketa beznačajna procedura kojom jednostavno zaljepimo gume. Ovi ljudi često shvate da gumama treba duže vremena da se izlizaju,što znači da je potreban određen broj sesija da guma dostigne vrhunske performanse. Ovaj vodić je će istaknuti neke procedure koje će vam pomoći da dođete do najboljih performansi gume u najkraćem roku, i takodjer vam može dati upute kako doći do djelovanja za koje ste vi mislili da nije moguće. Većina guma i odredjene gume kineskog stila teže da imaju malo krut i mrtav osjećaj, ali to se poboljša s vremenom. Sa par aplikacija ljepila za stoni tenis,kako je navedeno ispod,guma može dosegnuti vrhunske performanse skoro odmah i u većini slučajeva igra bolje za period njihovog vijeka. Najbolja procedura uključuje serije aplikacija normalnog i brzog ljepila, koja mora biti izvedena samo jednom.Doduše velik napredak se može postići sa nanošenjem samo normalnog ljepila. Ispod je detaljan opis procedura. Naredne diskusije se mogu pronaći na table tennis forum ovdje. ***BILJEŠKA: Super primajuća procedura nije bez rizika oštećivanja gume i ne bi se trebala koristiti na gumama sa visokim pritiscima ili tenzor gumama, jer njihovo oštećenje može postati pretjerano.Vodite veliku brigu i sami prosudite da li će ostaviti preveliku mrlju na gumi jer deponiranja površine spužve ili pretjeranog pritiska.

Dio 1 : Super Premazivanje Korak 1 – Pripremanje gume Prvo uklonite gumu iz paketa i položite je na sto. Ako imate kinesku gumu molim vas uklonite plastični zaštitni film na gornjoj strani i postavite komad kartona ispod da ljepljivi dio strane sačuvate od prašine ili mrlja od ljepila. Pobrinite se da je karton čist (u smislu da ništa ne piše) da ljepljivi dio ne bi poprimio nikakvu tintu ili će tinta završiti na vašoj gumi.Ako imate europsku ili japansku gumu (neljepljivu),ovo neće biti problem.Zapamtite da se nekad gume već malo uviju (kao na slici) ili su nekad ravne,no to nije bitno.

Korak 2 – Prirpema drveta Ako je drvo potpuno novo,najbolje je premazati ga slojem neke vrste poliuretnskog (ili lakom ili šelakom) premazom. Samo tanki sloj se treba koristiti,dovoljno da zaštiti gornja vlakna površine, ali ne previše da ne bi utjecalo na dodir drveta. Najlakši i najpogodniji metod je da se koristi samo lak za kosu. Skoro svi lakovi za kosu sadrže polimer acrylates koji je obično ono što drži vašu kosu na mjestu. Kad se popršće na drvo stvara vrlo tanak sloj na površini,koji svojim djelovanjem štiti drvo od pucanja,ali neće naškoditi osjećaju drveta. Jedino drvo koje vjerovatno ne treba ljepljenje je Hinoki. Ako imate hinoki drvo možete preskočiti ljepljenje. Ako imate staro drvo koje je već bilo ljepljeno nekoliko puta, šanse su da ono na sebi ima mrlje od ljepila. Iako ovo nije neki veći problem,bilo bi poželjno da se očiste te mrlje. Korak 3 – Stavljanje ljepila 3a. Stavite sloj normalnog ljepila po cijeloj strani gume.Kad stavite prvi sloj,guma može postati malo valovita,što je za sad uredu. Ostavite je nekih 10 minuta ili dok ne bude suha na dodir.Stavite drugi sloj i čekajte opet.Kao što možete vidjeti sa slike,guma se izravnala,gdje je prije bila valovita.Da je na početku bila ravna,sad bi se uvila.

3b. Sad nanesite 4-5 slojeva brzog ljepila (sačekajte poslije svakog sloja da guma bude suha na dodir) na gumu.Uslikano poslije 2 sloja i 5. sloja.

Poslije 5. sloja dok je ljepilo još vlažno,okrenite gumu na staklenu tacnu i stavite knjige težine 5 kg na nju.Ostavite preko noći.Slikana guma stavljena na staklo i guma pod knjigama :

Važna bilješka: Upotreba ovako puno slojeva ljepila može ostaviti trag na gumi,pa ako niste sigurni da gornja stranica i spužvasta strana gume nisu zaljepljeni dobro,korisitite manje slojeva ljepila, ili bar dovoljno slojeva da postignete pristojan dom. 3c. Ujutro kad odljepite gumu sa stakla. Trebao bi biti obrnuti dom od kebaba noć prije.Guma je već uveliko veća u ovoj fazi.

Ova sljedeća faza je najvažnija kako veličina gume neće ostati ovakva trajno.Ponovite korak 3b sa 4-5 slojeva brzog ljepila opet i ostavite oko 3 sata na staklu (za najbolje rezultate ostavite preko noći). Uslikano nakon 5 slojeva i nakon stavljanja na staklo po drugi put.

Zatim stavite debeli sloj ljepila na drvo I rasporedite ga ravnomjerno preko površine.Kad to uradite ostavite da se osuši.

Korak 4 – Stavljanje gume na vaš reket Kad su drvo i guma u potpunosti suhi,postavite gumu na dno i valjate (sa bocom ili valjkom) je prema gore nježno.Ako valjate presnažno guma će se rastegnuti i izmjeniti svoje osobine.Jednom kad je zaljepljena na reket,valjate bocu ili valjak još par puta da bi bili sigurni da nema zračnih balončića.Koristite oštru oštricu da izrežete gumu i konačno postavite je u stezaljku na oko sat vremena. Note: Cut SPARINGLY meaning leave excess/overhang just to make sure as some rubbers tend to shrink a few mm's back when they've calmed down over a few days. This won’t happen if you've been patient. I find that if you rush and hurry up the whole process. Then it normally shrinks back but in return, the rubber is faster, softer and springier, but it’s not at the pinnacle as when you follow the instructions exactly.

Part 2 – Super Priming using Normal Gluing Below is a series of steps that should be followed to give you a long lasting solid gluing. This is only for the players that don't like, or choose not to use speed glue and prefer to keep their racket unglued and ready to play at any time.

Korak 1 – Pripremanje gume Prvo uklonite gumu iz paketa i položite je na sto. Ako imate kinesku gumu molim vas uklonite plastični zaštitni film na gornjoj strani i postavite komad kartona ispod da ljepljivi dio strane sačuvate od prašine ili mrlja od ljepila. Pobrinite se da je karton čist (u smislu da ništa ne piše) da ljepljivi dio ne bi poprimio nikakvu tintu ili će tinta završiti na vašoj gumi.Ako imate europsku ili japansku gumu (neljepljivu),ovo neće biti problem.Zapamtite da se nekad gume već malo uviju (kao na slici) ili su nekad ravne,no to nije bitno. Korak 2 – Prirpema drveta Ako je drvo potpuno novo,najbolje je premazati ga slojem neke vrste poliuretnskog (ili lakom ili šelakom) premazom. Samo tanki sloj se treba koristiti,dovoljno da zaštiti gornja vlakna površine, ali ne previše da ne bi utjecalo na dodir drveta. Najlakši i najpogodniji metod je da se koristi samo lak za kosu. Skoro svi lakovi za kosu sadrže polimer acrylates koje je obično ono što drži vašu kosu na mjestu. Kad se popršće na drvo stvara vrlo tanak sloj na površini,koji svojim djelovanjem štiti drvo od pucanja,ali neće naškoditi osjećaju drveta. Jedino drvo koje vjerovatno ne treba ljepljenje je Hinoki. Ako imate hinoki drvo možete preskočiti ljepljenje. Ako imate staro drvo koje je već bilo ljepljeno nekoliko puta, šanse su da ono na sebi ima mrlje od ljepila. Iako ovo nije neki veći problem,bilo bi poželjno da se očiste te mrlje. Step 3 - Applying Glue Apply a layer of normal glue onto the rubber covering the entire area. Its best to apply layers that aren't too thin or thick but just right. Once you applied the first layer, the rubber may have a dome (curls up) by now, which is fine. Leave it for about 30minutes so the dome goes down. Note: sometimes this is longer for different rubbers. Repeat this gluing procedure at least 3 times. Then leave it for 2 hours so most of the glue effect and dome evaporates. Next apply a thick layers of glue to the blade and spread it uniformly across the surface. Once this is done leave it to dry. Step 4 - Putting it all together Once the blade and rubber has dried completely, align the rubber from the bottom and roll (with a bottle or roller) it upwards onto the blade very gently. If you roll it hard it will stretch the rubber and alter its characteristics. Once it’s glued onto the racket. Roll it a few more times just to make sure there are no air bubbles. Use a sharp blade to cut the rubber and finally place it in a clamp for about an hour.

Part 3 - Speed Gluing Below is a few steps that should be followed if you wish speed glue effectively and have a considerable effect on your rubbers. Types of glues To me there has always been 3 types of glues. At the time of writing this, the VOC glue ban has just been brought into effect, and not many manufacturers have released VOC free glues yet. 1. Normal glue - Minimal speed glue effect, gives very good adhesion for sticking new rubbers on. Also great for long pips to give a solid gluing. 2. Speed glue - At the moment there are tonnes of varieties of speed glue on the market. Each has a slight difference in composition which makes it perform in a different way. It’s impossible to name them all and list their characteristics. So basically, if it isn't normal glue or long life glue, then its speed glue. 3. Long life Speed glue - These glues, commonly (and incorrectly) referred to as ‘water based glues’, have entered the market for a few years now with varying success. They provide the user with close to 4 days of the glue effect without the hassle of gluing every 3 hours. These glues can take up to 12 hours to dry before they can be attached onto the blade. They smell a little really peculiar, some with a distinct fruity type smell. At the moment I know of Butterfly Millennium chack, Donic Enduro, Yasaka Pro-Life and Tibhar Rapid Clean Deluxe. These glues all belong to this category and provide a long life speed glue effect. As far as I know they are also all made in the same factory in Belgium, and the difference between them is not huge.

Gluing techniques. Everyone glues differently so there are many methods of gluing around. I'll just list the 2 that I think are the most effective. These apply to the normal speed glue only: Technique 1. Apply the glue evenly on to the rubber. Wait until a layer is touch dry before adding the next layer. The more glue and layers, the more effect. Once it’s dried, put a thin layer on your blade, wait for it to be touch dry, and just attach to your blade and clamp it for a few minutes as usual. Technique 2. Apply the glue onto the rubber, and while its still wet place and clamp the rubber sponge side down onto a glass plate. By doing this the fumes of the glue are trapped and can only permeate through the sponge. This method allows maximum glue effect with minimal glue usage. The only downside is that it takes longer then the above method. Leave the rubber on the glass plate for about 10-15 minutes, when you peel it off there should be a considerable dome. If your not happy with the results, then do it again until you get the desired effect. Once your happy, glue it onto the blade and clamp it.

Part 4: Removing Glue This section is intended for those that speed glue quite often and have to deal with glue build up. After about 10 or so gluings the additional layers don't penetrate the sponge as well thus not giving you the optimum glue effect. The ideal solution to this is to buy a new rubber (if your sponsored, shouldn’t be a problem). More commonly though it’s quite easy to remove the glue build up so you have a fresh sponge to work with again. 1. Using speed glue to remove glue. If you have a rubber which has a fairly medium to hard sponge, then this method is ok. Basically apply a layer of speedglue onto the build up and spread it around very thoroughly. Doing this sort of dissolves the glue already present on the sponge. About 2 minutes after the application you can start to rub the glue off the sponge with your fingers. Do it gently and take your time. If the glue starts to harden up again, use a additional layer of glue. If your careful, there should be no damage and the rubber will be immaculate. More commonly if you rush, you can expect to take bits of sponge off and end up with a mess. I do not recommend this method with soft rubbers as it will most likely destroy them. TIP: If you use long lasting speed glue to do this, everything becomes easier as that type of glue stays semi solid for much longer making the whole process easier. Only downside is that it's a waste of precious glue. 2. Orange Oil This method basically involves the use of Orange Oil which is basically a air freshener that can be found in your local supermarkets. The key ingredient that makes it work is citric acid. If you find any other air fresheners that contain this, it should work. The Orange Power that Ive been using for that last 3 years comes in a orange bottle with a purple spray twist top on it and it sells under the name "Orange Power". The method is basically the same, spray on 2 layers of the stuff onto the sponge and wait around 5 minutes for it to be touch dry. The glue build up should be dissolved and semi-solid. You can easily rub the excess build up off compared to method 1. If you take too long and the build up hardens. Then spray another layer. This method works on any rubbers and works very well with super soft rubbers that are prone to damage. The only downside is that it may tint your sponge a slight orange and it may smell like oranges which isn't such a bad thing. 3. Miscellaneous Methods Eucalyptus oil, WD40(Grease remover), Ironing, dry rubbing with thumb. These are all methods I have heard of but they dont work as good. Eucalyptus oil - This stuff absolutely reeks and leaves a terrible smell to everything. No doubt it works but the smell alone is enough to set anyone off. WD40 - A sworn method of a select few, but I have yet to try it myself Ironing - Basically placing a A4 sheet of paper on the sponge, and then proceed to iron it until the glue melts and is collected on the A4 paper. I've tried it once and it doesn't work for me. All I was left with was a pile of molten rubber and paper stuck to the sponge.

Dry rubbing with thumb - some hardcore players out there reckon they can remove glue just by peeling it or rubbing it away without the aid of solvents. This is possible with extremely hard sponges that are damage resistant. Chinese blue sponges also allow this method to work quite easily. Be aware that trying this method on any other sponge is most likely to cost you a new rubber.