Lingerie Insight July 2011

BUSINE S S INTELLI GEN CE FO R LIN GERIE & SWIMWE AR PRO FE S SI O NAL S

JULY 2011 / VOL. 02 ISSUE 07 www.lingerieinsight.com

NAUGHTY Agent Provocateur’s CEO talks international expansion

MODE CITY DMU

TWO C-UP Discover the brands that are pushing the boundaries in bust boosting bras

BRETTLES OF BELPER NEW PRODUCTS

ZERO TOLERANCE Learn about copyright and how it could impact on your business

MARLIES AND ME Designer Marlies Dekkers discusses her inspiration and recent court battle

LI NGE RIE COLL E C TIV COM P ETITI E ON VIEW TH OF TH E DE SIGNS IS Y WI NN EAR’ S STUDE I NG NTS

FRONT 3

News Review A round-up of this month’s lingerie and retail news.

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First Stitch We take a look at the work of LCF student Joanna Smith.

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Voice of the Industry Perfect Fit’s Lynn Young on the future of the High Street. Speakers’ Corner Industry experts talk about when tweeting becomes twittering in business.

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ON THE COVER 12

Luxuriously Naughty Agent Provocateur CEO Garry Hogarth discusses the company’s plans for rapid growth.

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Lingerie Collective Competition Winners Meet the winners of our Lingerie Collective competition.

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Two C-up Discover the big names investing in bust boosting bras.

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Zero Tolerance Timothy O’Callaghan explains the copyright issues that are throwing the lingerie industry into disarray.

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Marlies & Me Marlies Dekkers talks design inspiration and court battles.

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Paris Style We preview exhibitors of the Mode City 2011 trade show.

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De Montfort Designs View our picks from the DMU graduates’ final year designs.

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Brettles of Britain Gary Spendlove delves into the history of Brettles of Belper.

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REGULARS 59 60

Object of Desire The high end piece that has the industry talking this month. Products Showcase An inspirational selection of brand new lingerie.

60 www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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COMMENT

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING

The UK Lingerie Awards has been gaining serious momentum this month, with thousands of people taking to the website to submit their nominations and make their voices heard. We are overjoyed to introduce two new Gold Partners to the event, SpeedoSculpture and Melas Group (Jonathan Aston, Charnos Hosiery and Levante). As two of the most prestigious names in today’s hosiery and swimwear sectors, they will add huge weight to what is to be the intimate apparel industry’s first major national awards ceremony. Talking of big names in the industry, LI has interviewed Agent Provocateur’s Garry Hogarth in this month’s issue. The retail brand is the ideal example of a company that has successfully established itself as a label to be reckoned with in the realm of public recognition.

It is not easy to make a mark in this sector and, in light of this, we have two areas in which we are seeking to highlight these up and coming designers, this month. In June, we founded an onlinecompetition with The Lingerie Collective, where the two students who gained the most votes would go on to exhibit at The Lingerie Collective trade show at The Music Room in July. We are delighted to be able to introduce you to the winners and reveal some images of their cutting edge creations. We are also showcasing a selection of designs from De Montfort University’s final year Contour Fashion and Fashion & Contour students. It is an honour to be able to bring you the fruits of the imagination of these talented individuals, who will no doubt be making major waves in the industry in the years to come. KAT SLOWE EDITOR [email protected]

16A Baldwins Gardens, London, EC1N 7RJ, UK Tel: +44 (0) 20 31 764228 Fax: +44 (0) 20 31 764231 EDITORIAL EDITOR Kat Slowe, [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS TImothy O’Callaghan COMMERCIAL SALES MANAGER Andrew Martyniuk, [email protected] STUDIO GROUP ART EDITOR Daniel Prescott, [email protected] DESIGNER Lucy McMurray DIGITAL CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Hitendra Molleti, [email protected] ONLINE PRODUCTION Ernesto Ceralde, Rose Yorobe PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION GROUP PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Kyle Smith, [email protected] DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER Matthew Grant, [email protected] DATABASE MANAGEMENT Manju Sajeesh, [email protected] CIRCULATION

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTOR

CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE +971 4 286 8559

Timothy O’Callaghan is a solicitor and partner

Web: www.lingerieinsight.com

of Mayfair law firm Arnold Fooks Chadwick LLP; he

Printed by: Wyndeham Grange

specialises in advice to fashion companies on the full range of legal issues which they encounter and has built a particular reputation advising intimate apparel businesses. He lectures regularly at the U.K fashion and Textile Association and his fashion clients include many household names.

JULY COVER Image: Gossard Model: Elle Liberachi

The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review.

Photographer: Ruan van der Sande Model wears: The corselette on the cover of this

month’s issue is a new SS12 style for Gossard’s Ooh la la range. Key features include chantilly lace, pin stitching and wide satin elastic at the waist for an hourglass shape. The piece can be worn with or without straps for versatility and it also features a concealed easy side zip fastening and suspenders. It will launch in both black and antique ivory. 2

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Published by and copyright 2011 Promedia Ltd, incorporated and registered in the British Virgin Islands under company number 1559854.

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

THIS MONTH IN LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR

NEWS IN BRIEF NEWS IN QUOTE S GR ADUATE FOCUS VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY SPE AKERS’ CORNER CALENDAR WEB HIGHLIGHTS

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AFFINITAS PURSUES INTERNATIONAL EXPANSION

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fter just four short years of launching in the U.S., Los Angeles, California based lingerie brand Affinitas is taking its Stateside success global. Currently distributing in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Greece, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and Japan, the rapidly expanding lingerie company is now seeking established sales agents in France, along with distributors in Germany, Italy, Spain, The Netherlands, Portugal, Russia, South America and elsewhere worldwide. “This has been the mission of Affinitas since our launch in 2007,

and we will continue to work hard to fulfill this mission in the future,” said Affinitas president Keng Zhang. Offering lingerie in two ranges, Affinitas is comprised of the Affinitas Intimates range and the Parfait by Affinitas (full bust) range. Affinitas Intimates bras, bustiers and babydolls span sizes 30-38, A-DD, with camisoles, chemises and bottoms (thong, hipster and bikini styles) sized XS-XL. New, complimentary line Parfait by Affinitas targets the full bust market, offering bras, bustiers and babydolls in sizes 30D - 40G, with coordinating bottoms sized XS – 2X. “The introduction of Parfait by

Affinitas last year was really key to our own acceptance on the British market as there is such demand here (and throughout Europe) for stylish, fresh designs in larger cup sizes,” said Europeans sales manager Rebecca Spiers. “Now, thanks to the loyalty of our growing customer base here in the UK and in France, we are establishing our warehouse base in the UK next month to even better serve retailers with speedy deliveries and smaller minimum orders. The company has signed an agreement with Elite Group, a UK logistic company specializes in transportation, warehousing, packing, shipping and other

logistics services to companies domestically and internationally. Elite Group will be warehousing, packing and shipping products from its UK distribution centres to Affinitas customers in the UK and Europe. Zhang said: “The UK distribution centre will start serving the brand’s customers in the UK and across Europe as in mid-July.” Spiers added: “Naturally, this has also enabled us to be in an excellent position to expand our horizons and do business with our European neighbours. We are excited to have appointments already scheduled with distributors at Mode City in Paris next month.”

FOR IMAGES OF THE SS12 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

NEWS REVIEW

Dawn French has been spotted shopping at lingerie retailer Ann Summers with a mystery man in tow. The actress, who starred as Geraldine Granger in the Vicar of Dibley for 13 years ‘holy’ ditched any religious pretensions as she entered into the store in Soho. French, who divorced husband of 25 years Lenny Henry 18 months ago, left clutching a bag of products. The actress reportedly has a new boyfriend from outside the show business world. Usher has announced that he would like girl of the moment Pippa Middleton to become the face of his new lingerie brand. Middleton, whose rear assets have been applauded since her appearance as maid of honour at her sister’s wedding, could soon be approached by the R‘n’B star. “I don’t think there’s a more beautiful, more stunning, more talked-about woman in the world at the moment,” Usher recently told Look magazine. “I’m going to be approaching her in the next few weeks and setting up a meeting this summer.”

Lingerie retailer La Senza introduced the Triple Gel Strapless bra last month. This is the first strapless version of the product, which claims to enhance the appearance of a woman’s bust by two cup sizes. There have been a spate of bras launched over the past year that claim to give women an additional two alphabet letters. These include Marks & Spencer’s ‘2 Sizes Bigger’ bra and Wonderbra’s ‘Full Effect’ piece. Victoria’s Secret’s ‘Miraculous’ product is also reported to do the job - the US retailer will be launching in the UK next year.

Tamara Ecclestone, daughter of Formula 1 boss Bernie Ecclestone, has landed a prestigious new job modelling for Ultimo lingerie. With her new role, Ecclestone will be following in the footsteps of stars Kelly Brook and Mel B, both of whom were former ambassadors of the brand. The new face of the brand was photographed in a series of pieces, including a black and white polka dot set, leopard print bras, and black and red f loral designs. She also wore a classic black, push-up style bra. Daisy Lowe has been spotted wearing lingerie from luxury lingerie brand Made By Niki . The piece is part of Made By Niki’s ‘Knockout’ collection, which combines high fashion and sport-luxe characteristics.

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LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

Brand founder Niki McMorrough said: “We are so thrilled that Daisy fell in love with the Knockout Tank Dress. It’s such a versatile piece that can be styled as underwear, outerwear, sportswear or shapewear. Daisy’s a cool and sassy lady, and she rocks in Made by Niki!” Nottingham based swimwear label Pistol Panties launched its first lingerie range at department store John Lewis last month. The DISCO collection includes three styles, the ‘Belle’ balcony, the ‘Juliet’ balcony and the ‘Polly’ t-shirt, all with briefs and shorts. It features micro-fibre fabrics in a colour palate of pale pink and dusky blue, and comes in three varying Liberty prints – ‘Sophie’s blossom’, ‘Wiltshire’ and ‘Mauverina’. Lingerie brand Bravissimo launched its first J cup plunge bra in June. The French bow bra features an ivory and coral stripe, and the Poppy bra comes in a black and red print. It comes in two styles, French Bow and Poppy, and is available in sizes 28 to 38 in DD to J cup. A matching brief and thong are also offered in both styles from XS to 2XL

Luxury lingerie retailer Rigby & Peller claims to have avoided

the recession with its most successful sale to date. The Queen’s corsetiere achieved a 50 percent sell through store-wide in the first five days of it sale on lingerie, swimwear and nightwear lines. The sale was originally planned to run longer, but the unprecedented response from customers reportedly had the retailer already reviewing its stock to identify lines which could possibly be utilised to bolster the sale offering.

Baci Lingerie has announced the grand opening of its latest mono brand store. The launch in Budapest, Hungary, is the latest in a series of new openings around the world and reportedly attracted large crowds of shoppers within the capital. Baci Lingerie is currently preparing to launch 3,000 stores worldwide in the next six years. It already has stores planned to open in the next three months in countries such as Scandinavia, UAE, UK, Spain, Holland, Germany, Mexico and Lithuania.

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

NEWS IN QUOTES

“I hope to have my own jewellery line, plus lingerie and cashmere. That’s where I see myself in five or 10 years. Designing.” Supermodel and Transformer’s actress ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELY talks about her plans to eventually start her own lingerie line.

“Vanessa was absolutely the right person to go undercover, although when I first asked her to go undercover she wasn’t that keen; that might have been more to do with the wig she had to wear though…!” Ann Summers chief executive JACQUELINE GOLD talks about her sister, the retailer’s new managing director, participating in Channel 4’s Undercover Boss programme.

“I don’t think there’s a more beautiful, more stunning, more talked-about woman in the world at the moment,” US singer USHER on why he wants the new Duchess of Cambridge’s sister PIPPA MIDDLETON to front his lingerie brand.

“Our store managers have reported that as well as the fantastic response to our sale, our clients are just as eager to purchase full price product whilst taking advantage of the fantastic sale prices.” Rigby & Peller director DAVID KENTON on how the retailer has avoided the recession with its most successful sale to date.

“Just check a Monopoly board. Go past the Strand, Leicester Square, Regent Street and Park Lane and look for Mayfair. You’ll find the UK Lingerie Awards at Number One.” Lingerie Insight editor KAT SLOWE opens up about the location of this year’s inaugural UK Lingerie Awards.

>> Something to say? Email [email protected]

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

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FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

NEWS REVIEW

free point of sale material to its boutiques and has new images of the Nude Base colour, along with new booklets, to give out to consumers.

FIRST STITCH

CELEBRATING EMERGING TALENT Joanna Smith is a 3rd year Fashion Contour student (BA hons) at London College of Fashion.

Reality star Kim Kardashian was spotted shopping at luxury lingerie retailer La Perla near Los Angeles last month. Kardashian, who is set to wed basketball player Kris Humphries this year, browsed the store wearing a form-fitting pencil skirt and carrying a neon yellow Hermes Birkin. The model, who is a fan of Spanx underwear, has already revealed that she has plans to slim down for the big day.

Lingerie label Ma Mignonnette has launched the bespoke ‘Love Pocket Knickers,’ this month, to the wider market. The product was previously only commissioned for private customers, including singer Gwen Stefani, Hollywood actresses Gemma Arterton, Emma Watson, Thandie Newton, supermodels Lily Cole, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Amber Le Bon and the Jagger sisters (Lizzie & Georgia). The special knickers feature a ruby contrast back pocket embroidered with a sweet word or monogrammed initials of your choice. The pocket is ‘perfectly sized for holding a note from your lover, a French letter or perhaps an engagement ring...’

Smith is currently completing a placement year with Damaris and Mimi Holliday, where she has recently been promoted to a sales role dealing with buyers such as Selfridges, Harrods and Fenwicks. The young, experimental designer already possesses several qualifications, such as an Art and Design BTEC and a national diploma at University of the Arts. Past work includes industry briefs with The Royal Ballet, Speedo, Debenhams and Sony Ericsson. >> Are you a student or recent graduate and want to be featured in First Stitch? Email [email protected]

STORE ENVY

Online boutique Esty Lingerie has launched its fi rst own

branded collection, designed by Estelle Puleston, the 21-year old student who founded the company in 2009. Buttercup, a luxury lingerie line handmade entirely in the UK, is made from lace and satin, and features a delicate palette of white and lemon yellow. The range includes a corset, a wrap, a baby doll and a series of bra sets. Brazilian shapewear brand Plié has reported ‘extraordi-

nary’ demand for the new Base Nude colourway in its Control shapewear range, soft launched three weeks ago. The Base Nude classic brief style sold out the day after stock arrived from the factory. The official release of the new Nude will be at Plié’s showing at Mode City, this July. Plié Europe will be providing 6

New lingerie brand Ryder & Rowe launches this season with its fi rst collection, inspired by the life and work of F. Scott Fitzgerald. The brand was established by design trio Alison McCann, Naomi Ryder and Dennis Nothdruft. Alison McCann has over 15 years experience in the fashion industry and recently curated the Undercover: The evolution of underwear exhibition at the Fashion & Textile Museum. Naomi Ryder is a textile designer and illustrator specialising in embroidery. Her range of interior design products includes a collection of embroidered handmade cushions,

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

AGENT PROVOCATEUR, MADISON AVENUE, US British lingerie brand Agent Provoca-

area features a fireplace, seating and

teur opened its new flagship boutique

freestanding display fixtures based on

on Madison Avenue earlier this year.

classic 1970s étagère displays. There

The grand double-height entrance

are four fitting rooms finished with be-

lobby features mirror-panelled walls

spoke pink, grey and black graduate

and an original 1970s chandelier. This

dye silk crepe curtains and baby pink

leads into the main store space with

silk walls with chinoiserie design.

floor-to-ceiling black lacquer furniture, pink leather and gold hardware. A new concept hosiery library adds a quirky detail to the space,

A conservatory at the back of the store is designed in the style of an orangery filled with antique seating, birdcages and rouched lace drapes. The

complete with black lacquer ladder

mezzazine floor is an area designed

and polished brass fixings. A salon

to hold private appointments.

>> Got a Store Envy suggestion? Email [email protected]

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY

The High Street has to change

NEWS REVIEW

Lingerie and swimwear brand

The UK Lingerie Awards has added an additional category to the mix, Lingerie Insight can reveal. Industry members and the public will now be able to submit nominations online for Sportswear Brand of the Year. The decision was made after it was decided that sports underwear was too big a sector to omit, particularly in light of the upcoming Olympics, which is sure to shine a spotlight on this area of intimate apparel.

Freya appeared last month at

LYNN YOUNG owner, Perfect Fit

I

was reading with interest a

to spend their redundancy money

story in the news review of

on new dreams in business in a

Lingerie Insight, regarding Mary

small way. The small towns also need

Portas being called in to lead an

free parking for at least two hours

independent review into the future of

to combat the large shopping malls

the High Street.

parking facilities.

I would like to tell her of our story

In my job as Chair, I have to keep

in Keynsham - that is K E Y N S H A M,

a positive attitude through our

as in the Horace Batchelor advert on

meetings in order to maintain high

radio Luxemburg back in the sixties.

spirits. It is very hard for traders to

I am chairperson of the Business

remain thus when businesses are

Association in the town, as well as

closing down around them. It helps

owner of an independent retail outlet

to offer a service that no one else

and it is a very big concern to us all

can provide and people today want a

how the High Street survives.

bargain, so a sales area is always good.

Our local council - Bath &

I have been in business for 20

North East Somerset - has a huge

years. It is our 20th anniversary, this

regeneration plan of renewing the

Sept 5. Building my shop, Perfect

town centre with offices, leisure and

Fit, into a big business took years

retail. Because of the change in local

of hard work. We started with three

politics, this may take longer than

members of staff and small premises,

expected (there should be no politics

and expanded to 14 staff, quadrupling

in the High Street).

in size. My stock started with £6,000

Our view is the High Street has to

worth to a now, unmentionable figure.

change. There needs to be a relaxed

We offer a specialized service of fitting

atmosphere, where people can feel

ladies underwear, which has been our

comfortable, trees, shrubs, places

saviour, because we get it right and

to sit, pedestrianisation and small

lots of big stores get it wrong. I would

independent shops. The council has

love to contribute to Mary Portas

to reduce rates and encourage people

regarding her independent review.

8

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

X Factor auditions across the country. The brand showed video clips on giant LED screens to all those queuing for the chance to see Louis, Gary Barlow, Kelly Rowland and Tulisa from N-Dubz. Each video clip revealed Freya’s collections for SS11 and was shown continually throughout the day over the 12 days of auditions. Those queuing for the auditions also had the chance to win a year’s supply of Freya lingerie simply by scanning the QR code on the screen or going through to a specific web page to enter. On the eve of the launch, Eveden head of marketing AnnMarie said: “We have been eagerly awaiting this year’s X-Factor. We are incredibly excited to be appearing at the auditions and hope that the notoriously large crowds and queues of hopeful stars enjoy checking out our lingerie and swimwear collections for SS11.” Online retailer If You Please has announced the re-launch of its online boutique. The website, which went live in December 2011, has been re-designed following comments and feedback from customers. The new site reportedly runs a lot faster and features quick search solutions, such as new size and colour fi lters. Customers are also now able to shop using their Blackberry or iPhone.

Debenhams will be introducing its own brand of sleepwear in time for Christmas, 2011, Lingerie Insight can exclusively reveal. The new range, which is described as a ‘younger, casual, fashion handwriting in sleepwear,’ will be part of a push from the department store to expand its presence in the sector. Debenhams head of lingerie buying and design Sharon Webb said: “We have got a really big focus on sleepwear for the back end of autumn. We have got a new team in place, new buyer, new designer...”

>> Got a story? Email news @lingerieinsight.com

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

SPEAKERS’ CORNER

DIARY DATES 3-5th July, Music Rooms, London. The Lingerie Collective Show,

reportedly a favourite of department store Selfridges, exhibits high end, fashion-forward brands. Past exhibitors have included Marlies Dekkers, Fred and Ginger, Chantal Thomass, Black Neon and Eternal Spirits. 9-11th July, Porte de Versailles,

PENNY CLAYTON director of European operations, Bravado Designs

KATIE HALFORD founder, What Katie Did

JOHN PEARCE sales and marketing director, Plie Europe

WHEN DOES TWEETING BECOME TWITTERING IN BUSINESS?

Paris. Mode City is an event that

brings together retailers, buyers, designers, brands and manufactures within the swimwear and lingerie industry. Guests travel from around the world to attend the event from sectors including lingerie, clothing, couture, bodywear and sportswear.

“ When your twitter updates have

“ Twitter is a fun tool and tweets

“At Plié Europe, we jumped on the

gone from tentative company news

should be light-hearted and

social networking bandwagon quite

to how much better you’d be on

humorous: not repetitive and a

early with both FaceBook and Twitter.

The Apprentice, it might be time to

hard sell. A tweet should seduce

Twitter proved next to useless as a

16-19th July, Miami Beach Con-

take a step back. While it’s important

a customer, reminding them how

business tool - Facebook has proved

vention Centre, Miami. Often

that followers know that you’re not

glamorous and exciting a brand is:

to be immeasurably valuable. I believe

just a business, it pays to remember

not bombard them with messages

that Twitter won’t remain a free-to-use

that the majority of your followers

to buy, buy, buy. Tweeters

service for much longer. At heart,

are competing companies, potential

should always remember that

it’s a highly sophisticated broadcast

consumers, clients and colleagues,

they’re representing their

service working best when providing

and they are following your company,

brand and a tweet about silky

journalists and the general public with

not you. So, as interesting as your

French knickers in Vogue Italia

red hot updates on the famous and/or

X-Factor tips are, maybe exciting

shouldn’t be followed by news

rich. I’d love a celebrity to tweet about

company news, relevant media stories

that the warehouse has run out

us, but that wouldn’t be free and it’s

or even company pictures would be

of biscuits… Laduree macarons

too early to know if Tweet-vertising

more appropriate.”

excepted! ”

would be useful or cost-effective.”

described as the most comprehensive swimwear show in the world, Miami SwimShow will be announcing the launch of the inaugural LingerieShow at this year’s event. The move is taking place in response to the needs of buyers and vendors within what has been described as an increasingly synergetic market. 26-28th July, Cranmore Park, Solihull. The AIS Lingerie & Legwear

NEWS FLASH

show, which attracts primarily

ANN SUMMERS has announced that it will be featuring in hit Channel 4 production, Undercover Boss. The first episode of the TV programme, airing on July 5, follows new managing director Vanessa Gold on her journey as she goes undercover to discover how much hard work goes on behind the scenes both in store and at the famous Ann Summers Parties. The filming takes Vanessa across the country to visit several of Ann Summers’ 150 stores. There, as part of the undercover process, she has the opportunity to meet the teams and observe them at work. Whilst working alongside the teams in store, Vanessa reportedly meets a number For more of ‘inspirational’ colleagues - oblivious to Vanesnews visit sa’s true identity, they open up to their visitor and www.lingerieinexplain what working for Ann Summers means to sight.com them, revealing their opinions and ideas for their stores and the company.

independent retailers, will feature lingerie, nightwear and hosiery from both mainstream and emerging brands. 28th July, Jalouse, London. CiCi PR & Events will be hosting

a branded showcase at elite members club Jalouse, situated within the ‘media hub’ of Hanover Square, London. A handful of selected high end brands, including CiCi Pr clients, will showcase their AW11 /SS12 collections within the press day style event. Participating brands include Nardis Beach, Lisa Blue, MyaBlueBeach, Tallulah Love and one other label tbc.

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

9

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

MOST READ ONLINE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

EDITOR’S CHOICE

GALLERY: Lingerie Collective competition finalists

UK Lingerie Awards nominations hotting up

GALLERY

COLLECTION

300 undress for Desigual Semi-Naked event

DMU London Catwalk Graduate Show

Panache SS12 ranges

Fraulein Annie brings louche 60s glamour to lines

Contour Fashion and Fashion & Contour students show off their fi nal year designs.

Lingerie company Panache showcases its brands’ offerings for Spring Summer 2012.

Ann Summers to be in Channel 4’s Undercover Boss GALLERY: Contour Ball 2011

GALLERY: DMU London Catwalk Graduate Show

Lingerie Collective picks 2 competition winners

VIDEO

NEWS

LI TV: Dirty Pretty Things website launch party

Freya gains the X Factor

Freya gains the X Factor

Esty Lingerie stocks new brand Christina Ruth

We go behind-the-scenes of the event at The Lingerie Collective.

Lingerie brand Freya appears at X-Factor auditions around the country.

LINGERIE TWEETS “I’m alwayss advising biz to identify their

“RT, Follow and vote @curvykate in the

Whats ur USP what point nt of o difference. diff

UK Lingerie awards for your chance to

makes u st stand t out? Tweet me urs & I will

#WIN a lingerie set!”

R best 3.”” RT

@CurvyKate

@Jacqueline_Gold @Jacqu cque e “Dear Jim, Please can you fix it for me to

10

“The e love llovely ov ly y ladies at @WhatKatieDidLDN

be mid-July already and sunning with my

j t helped jus d me buy a corset and some just

family and man in the sunshine. Thank

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

undies. Thanks girls!”

you. Claire Merry.”

@gutnahofski

@claire_merry

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at Mode City, Hall 1, stand M64 – N75.

AGENT PROVOCATEUR CATEUR / INTERVIEW

Luxuriously NAUGHTY 1

1 Laurie SS11 campaign image

12

AGENT PROVOCATEUR CHIEF EXECUTIVE GARRY HOGARTH TALKS TO KAT SLOWE ABOUT THE COMPANY’S PLANS FOR EXPANSION, ITS NEW VENTURE INTO BEDDING AND WHY HE PREFERS WORKING FOR A BRAND.

“

She likes to describe it as luxuriously naughty,” Agent Provocateur chief executive Garry Hogarth says of creative director Sarah Shotton’s design mentality. “It’s by women for women. When Shotton took over from Joseph, she created designs to make women feel confident, sexy and comfortable rather than concentrating on what blokes fancy.”

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

And, it is not just design that is progressing since former creative designer Joseph Corre – who notoriously refused an MBE back in 2007 - sold the business to private equity business 3i. The sale famously took place after Corre, the son of British designer Vivienne Westwood, divorced wife and co-founder Serena Rees. It was after this change in ownership took place

INTERVIEW / AGENT PROVOCATEUR

that Hogarth was brought on board to take the helm and a new strategy for expansion was born. Hogarth informs us that he is planning to double the number of Agent Provocateur stores around the world over the next fi ve years at an average rate of around 11 a year. The company will be primarily concentrating on the US, Chinese and Russian markets. A sixth store will open in Moscow, this July, with further outlets predicted to roll out in the city and across the Soviet Union in the ensuing months. Agent Provocateur also has plans to open its fi rst store in Amsterdam, Holland, before the end of 2011. Hogarth says: “We have 55 outlets at the moment and the plan over the next four to five years is to double that. And that’s a combination of stores and franchises... From this year, America is now our biggest market and we have a number of new stores in the pipeline.” Hogarth will be visiting Japan and Singapore this month to check out potential franchise partners in the countries. “We have got some potential franchise partners that want to work with us there,” he says. “Because we always franchise stores in that sort of area, rather than operate them ourselves. It is a bit complicated.” The Middle East will also see a series of new outlets being launched. Agent Provocateur’s distributor in the Middle East currently operates four shops in the region, with another store opening early next year in Kuwait. “We just opened in Beirut about two weeks ago,” Hogarth says. “It is a pretty cool place, Beirut, actually. It is very French and stylish, and most of the luxury brands are there. I recently met with our Middle Eastern distributor in Kuwait and he is busy exploring the multiple opportunities for expansion in the region.” The company’s plans for rapid expansion played a significant part in the appointment of its new non-executive chairman Chris Woodhouse. Woodhouse is a director of Debenhams and chairman of Gondola Group Limited, the holding company for a series of restaurant brands including Pizza Express, ASK, Zizzi and Byron. He was introduced to Agent Provocateur through 3i’s Business Leaders Network, a pool of ‘high calibre business leaders’ who work closely with 3i and its portfolio companies across the world. The new non-executive chairman takes over the role from Kim Winser, who left Agent Provocateur in January, this year, under a cloud of controversy. “He’s really good,” Hogarth says. “He comes from a position as fi nance director of Debenhams, but he has been involved within various buy outs with Homebase, Halfords and then Debenhams, so he is very strong strategically and, fi nancially, I think he will really help with working out all the numbers. “Kim Winser came in and really helped us re-position the brand, and get more press, and marketing, and things. We pretty much did that and we have strong marketing, and now I sort of think we are back in the place that we should be.” And expansion is not the only project that Agent Provocateur is currently embarking on. It will be announcing a new face of the brand, this August, on the launch of its Autumn Winter campaign. Hogarth refuses to reveal the identity of the model, but claims that she is a recognised name and that the images – shot last month – are sizzling hot.

What? The UK Lingerie Awards are the ultimate accolades for the British intimate apparel industry

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AGENT PROVOCATEUR / INTERVIEW

Biography Garry Hogarth is currently the chief executive of lingerie brand and retailer Agent Provocateur. Hogarth began his career as a supplier and set up his own accessories supply business, called Fast Forward, in 1988. In 1999, the company was sold to Lambert Howarth, a larger footwear supply group, of which Hogarth subsequently became chief executive in 2000. After his resignation in June 2006, Hogarth chose to leave the supply sector and started working as a consultant at Agent Provocateur. Upon the sale of the business in 2007 to private equity group 3i, he was requested to take over as chief executive and the rest is, as they say, history.

“They are smouldering,” he says. “The person we have picked is really spot-on for the brand, so hopefully everyone will be pleased and excited about it.” According to the chief executive, after the model saw the fi rst images, she announced that she was unsatisfied with how she appeared and requested that they could be shot again. Against his better judgement, the photographer re-shot the photos and the pictures came out even better than before. “They were hot!” Hogarth says. “I asked her what she had done differently and she told me ‘I was thinking of a naughty, sexual fantasy.’” While Agent Provocateur may be becoming more female orientated, sex and the bedroom remain at the heart of the brand’s offering. Nothing makes this clearer than the brand’s

2 Juno SS11 campaign image 3 Fenella SS11 campaign image

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latest product, set to hit stores this September. The company will be introducing bedding to its portfolio of lingerie, perfume and sunglasses. The new luxury item, which comes in off white, clarets, charcoal grey and prints, is aimed at luxury department stores such as Selfridges and quality independent stores. “It is excellent quality and that is the key, really,” Hogarth adds, “because it is quite hard to fi nd amazing bedding. “We are looking at various products that we think fit in with the brand and it didn’t have to be bedding at this point, but we just found the right partner to work with.” The freedom to explore new avenues is key to Hogarth, who effectively has always been his own boss and, up until this year, never even

INTERVIEW / AGENT PROVOCATEUR

Where? 3

had a CV. And Agent Provocateur reflects the autonomy of its chief executive, not looking to any other designers of fashion labels for inspiration, but instead working purely on what it considers will be liked by its customers, independent of trends. Hogarth says: “We are not interested in what any other lingerie company or fashion label is doing... We just do what we want to do – it is pure design.” The ability to do this stems from Agent Provocateur’s position as a retail brand. Unlike many other companies, which operate solely as a brand or a retailer, Agent Provocateur is in control of the whole process, from picking the fabrics through to product design, organising the manufacturing and ultimately selling. Though his current position is the fi rst time that Hogarth has worked for a brand, he claims to greatly enjoy the process and is relieved to no longer be in the supply side of the industry, which he says has become increasingly difficult in the past few years. As the founder of a company that used to supply the high street and M&S in the eighties and nineties, Hogarth is well aware of the challenges that the market presents. “I think the retailers are getting tougher,” he says. “I am sure some people still make money, but I think the margins are tighter and it is a lot more difficult. I am pleased to get out of it. I think that was the heyday for that sort of business, but I wouldn’t want to be in it today. I think it is much better to be with a brand.” It is little surprise that Hogarth feels this way. With a growth in underlying profits last year of 45 percent to £1.2m, Agent Provocateur has been defying the economic downturn and the next fi ve years look to see this fi gure soar even higher. Luckily, as the agent driving this success, it seems unlikely that Hogarth will be needing a CV anytime soon.

The spectacular dinner and party will take place at London’s hottest address

One Mayfair

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LINGERIE COLLECTIVE COMPETITION WINNERS / PROFILE

Lingerie Collective Competition Winners LINGERIE INSIGHT INTRODUCES YOU TO THE TWO EXTREMELY TALENTED STUDENTS WHO WON OUR ONLINE COMPETITION TO GAIN A SPACE AT THE PRESTIGIOUS LINGERIE COLLECTIVE TRADE SHOW, THIS JULY.

CHRISTINA WAN – CONTOUR FASHION, DE MONTFORT UNIVERSITY

1 De Montfort University graduate Christina Wan 2&3 Balconette bra and supender set created by Christina Wan 4 LCF student Bianca Laporta 5 Design from Bianca Laporta’s LCF Speedo project

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During Christina’s time at De h Montfort University, she worked with Di Murini – Mio Destino’s mastectomy brand. She also completed industry projects for Gilly Hicks, Triumph, Curvy Kate and Ace Style, where she designed a conceptual lingerie set which was exhibited at the Moda tradeshow earlier this year. “Learning to make bras from scratch with such expertise at hand has made it a very enjoyable experience at De Montfort,” Christina says. “It has been the best decision I made to return to my hometown, Leicester, to study this course.” Christina’s style focuses on the romantic and ‘über feminine’, taking inspiration from luxury interiors and photography. Focusing on intricate details and designing to enhance women’s confidence, Christina is passionate about designing lingerie as an outerwear option. She seeks to transform the traditional idea of lingerie as simply a second skin to something that can also express one’s personality, and hopes this is a trend will continue through the 21st Century. Her boudoir lingerie graduate collection was inspired by the interiors of Royal palaces and vintage Louis Vuitton travel trunks, for which she took a research trip to Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire, and Paris to see the exhibition ‘Voyage En Capitale’. Each of the 15-piece silk collection is encrusted with Swarovski-crystallized French lace, lined in royal red silk satin and hand fi nished. Christina’s work has been pub-

O WINNING THE LINGERIE ON C COLLECTIVE COMPETITION: ““Winning a space at The Lingerie C Collective has been the icing on tthe cake for me after having just c completed the BA(Hons) Contour F Fashion degree course at DMU. I am extremely excited and h honoured to be able to exhibit m my graduate collection alongside tthe most luxurious brands in tthe lingerie industry such as my ffavourites; Nichole de Carle and C Chantal Thomass. I am really llooking forward to the whole e experience of exhibiting my c collection at the trade show and m meeting professionals, providing m me with an understanding of the sales and business side to the fast paced lingerie industry.”

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lished in the recent issue of the fashion magazine ‘Kindred Sole’ and her graduate collection will also be shown on ‘The Collection’ catwalk alongside swimwear brand Paolita. The event is being held at the Studio V Valbonne in Mayfair on July 8 and is being hosted by fashioncapital. c co.uk. Christina hopes to start a career w working for high-end luxury lingerie an evening-wear design houses in and Lo London and eventually see her desig stocked in department stores, signs su as Selfridges. such You can follow the graduate’s journe through her blog www.christinaney bo bonnlux.blogspot.com or on Twitter: @ @ChristinaWbonn

PROFILE / LINGERIE COLLECTIVE COMPETITION WINNERS

BIANCA LAPORTA - FASHION CONTOUR, LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION Fr an early age, Bianca loved From lin lingerie - the details, colours and de delicacy involved. In the pursuit of her dream, B Bianca is studying Fashion C Contour at London College of F Fashion, where she says she h learned the importance of has ‘ ‘uniqueness’. The female form i Bianca’s starting inspiration. is Designers Lanvin and Alberta Ferretti are her favourites as, lik her, h they th also l embrace b f like female form in their designs. Bianca recently finished her 3rd year, which involved working in three industry placements: Harrods stockists, Lee Klabin, Alöe and Asos. Each gave me beneficial experience that I will take into my final year,” Bianca says. “I experienced complex sculptural pattern cutting at Lee Klabin and acted as a personal assistant at Alöe. This gave me hands on experience of running a small luxury label in the industry. Finally, with Asos, while working in design, I created artworks and made jewellery for press day. I was also given the opportunity to design pieces for the lingerie collections for the Autumn Winter 11 Christmas and Spring Summer 12 Valentines, which has been a real highlight for me. Bianca’s achievements include a Ballet Russes/English National Ballet project, which was exhibited at the V&A Museum, where the pri5 ma ballerina wore it for a ballet performance. The professional photo shoot for this project also made it onto vogue.com. “My future aspirations,” Bianca reveals, “are to get a steadyy grounding in the industry work-ing in supply/manufacture/buy-ing, whilst designing freelance. I hope to one day own my own boutique, selling my own label and others, like Mimi Holliday and Stella McCartney.” 4

ON WINNING THE LINGERIE COLLECTIVE COMPETITION: “In January, this year, I attended Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris to help exhibit on the Alöe stand as part of my placement. The atmosphere and experience of doing this was amazing. When I first saw the competition on Lingerie Insight website, I got very excited. What an incredible opportunity, showcasing my work at the prestigious Lingerie Collective, I thought, this is my chance! When I saw that I had won the opportunity to exhibit, I was filled with euphoria and happiness. Since finishing placements, I have been making lingerie at home and cannot wait to showcase it. With the great recent press I’ve had, each month keeps getting better and better, and it’s a wonderful feeling.”

When? The Awards kick off the Christmas selling season on

September 7th 7.30pm - late

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BOOSTING BRAS / INVESTIGATION

TWO C-UP WITH THE WORLD’S PRESS CURRENTLY FOCUSING ON THE 1950S AND THE FULLER FIGURED WOMAN, THOSE WITH SLIGHTER SILHOUETTES COULD BE EXCUSED FOR FEELING A LITTLE LEFT OUT. LI SEEKS TO ADDRESS THE BALANCE BY INVESTIGATING THE NEW BOOSTING BRAS THAT INCREASE THE APPEARANCE OF THE BUST BY TWO CUP SIZES.

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1 Ann Summer’s Kissing Cleavage bikini

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igger is not always better – but it usually is. A series of lingerie brands have in the past year been attempting to outdo each other to create the biggest bust. But, in an increasingly competitive world, the bar has been raised. No longer is it enough to increase the appearance of a woman’s bust by a single letter. Now it takes two. It all started on the High Street last year with a series of new product launches by some of the biggest names in intimate apparel retail, including La Senza, Ann Summers and Marks & Spencer. Marks & Spencer launched the aptly titled 2 Sizes Bigger bra last August amid a furore of media attention and public frenzy. The retailer has since gone on to sell one of the bras every minute its stores are open. Marks & Spencer head of lingerie design Soozie Jenkinson says: “The reason that we decided to launch the 2 Sizes Bigger bra was that we saw that there was a trend towards the return

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INVESTIGATION / BOOSTING BRAS

of women’s curves, the 1950’s Mad Men look.” “We are also very aware of the huge increase in women resorting to cosmetic surgery to increase their cup size. That is very costly and, obviously, painful and permanent. We thought we would allow customers to get the look without having to go under the knife. It is like cosmetic surgery without the surgery and was basically a very affordable lingerie solution for many women.” Traditional push up bras will usually be fi lled with water, oil or air, wrapped up in a type of plastic cookie or pocket. Th is technology can, claims the designer, prove very uncomfortable. “The oil fi lled bras were actually quite heavy and if you wanted to wear the all day, it could actually be quite uncomfortable after a few hours,” she says. “As for the air, while it did give you a push up shape, often they actually created a look that wasn’t very natural. We wanted to develop something that gave all that cleavage enhancement, but actually looked very natural to wear.” For the next season, Marks & Spencer will be adding more prints to its existing 2 Sizes Bigger range. It also has plans to launch a new, strapless version of the bra in time for Christmas. The product will be available in

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plain and ‘very smooth lace’ versions. Mark & Spencer is not the only retailer to see strapless as a natural evolution of the two cup sizes bigger product. La Senza launched the Triple Gel Strapless bra last month. Th is is the retailer’s fi rst strapless version of the product, which was launched in July 2010. The company also launched a swimwear version of the Triple Gel in February, a step mirrored by fellow High Street retailer Ann Summers two months later. Ann Summers launched its ‘Instant Boob Job’ bra, titled Kissing Cleavage, in July, 2010. On the fi rst day of launch, demand for the product reportedly caused the retailer’s website to crash and left stores empty as the bras sold out within hours. The new bikini version, which 96 percent of women apparently claim increases your bust by ‘at least’ one cup size, is the latest option to be introduced by Ann Summers. It features removable microbead pads, which stay at a constant temperature for the beach and do not weigh down the cleavage when swimming. On the Kissing Cleavage bikini launch, an Ann Summers spokesperson says: “Ann Summers has been tirelessly working with new technologists to discover the answer to the ultimate

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cleavage - without going under the knife. We know that women want, and need, to feel confident unveiling their bikini bodies, and this range will give you extra support whilst making the most of your assets . “We have fi nally discovered a technology that lets women achieve a cleavage without compromising on comfort - the unique microbead technology is ultra light and actually moulds to the shape of your breast and is shaped with a super plunge for maximum cleavage factor. No weighed down pads, no sogginess and you can forget an overheated bikini. You want an instant boob job for your beach holiday - you’ve got one.” M&Co senior lingerie, swimwear and sleepwear buyer Caroline Stephenson agrees that swimwear is an obvious route for expansion within in the boost busting sector. Last month, the retailer launched its fi rst enhancing bra, titled – similarly to M&S - 2 Cup Sizes Bigger, and it is reported to already be a best-seller.

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

2 Maidenform Ultimate Push Up bra 3 M & Co 2 Cup Sizes Bigger bra

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BOOSTING BRAS / INVESTIGATION

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4 Royce Lingerie before shot 5 Model wearing Royce Lingerie’s Enhance bra

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It is available on M&Co’s website in white, nude and black, and grey animal print, with matching pants. The company is rumoured to be looking into introducing its own swimwear version next season. Stephenson says: “We entered this market having seen this type of product in the US... Going forward these types of products will cascade down into swimwear as, once you get used to the pleasure of seeing yourself either significantly smaller or bigger in the bust, you are going to want that ‘look’ on the beach.” While the major High Street retailers appear to have been experiencing a big boost in sales from their bust boosting products, independent retailers should not despair. There are also a series of brands now offering competitive two cup enhancing products. Like La Senza and soon M&S, Maidenform recently expanded its Ultimate Push Up bra into the strapless category and the product is reported to be performing ‘very well,’ this season. And the brand is continuing to in-

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novate within the push up arena. Its Pressure Free collection has expanded with a push up bra and it has other push up styles slated for next spring that include a strapless and plunge style. Wonderbra, famous for its cleavage enhancing styles, has also developed a new bra to give its ‘best ever’ boost. The Full Effect bra, again designed to enhance busts by up to two cup sizes, features padding made of a mix of air, gel and foam, which weighs in at a very light 80 grams. Fan shaped padding has been developed to provide enhancement from every angle for a ‘fuller effect’. Th is seeks to create a completely natural, rounded shape, while the smooth microfibre cups and seam-free side wings give the bra an invisible look. Wonderbra UK spokesperson Julia Nolan says: “You can always rely on Wonderbra to give you an amazing cleavage, but we really wanted to create something even better. Our Wonderbra girls are always looking for the ultimate in cleavage, but we wanted

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

to develop something comfortable that didn’t look fake. Th is bra really does give you the full effect – with an increase of up to two cup sizes that looks natural and is so light you hardly know you’re wearing it.” For everyday casual wear, Royce has just launched a new wirefree, moulded, extra-padded t-shirt bra, called ‘Enhance’. The AAA cup Enhance has been designed with extra-thick foam padding to give the illusion of a bust two sizes bigger. The extra-padded cups also make the product perfect for women who have had double-mastectomy and don’t want to wear prostheses. In the press release, a Royce Lingerie spokewoman writes: “For too long, the lingerie market has been focused on bigger-busted ladies, making those of us with smaller breasts feel a little left out!” It doesn’t appear that she has cause to worry. Looking at the market, it is hard to miss that little has rapidly become an area of extreme growth.

BUSINE S S INTELLI GEN CE FO R LIN GERIE & SWIMWE AR PRO FE S SI O NAL S

JULY 2011 / ISSUE 03 www.lingerieinsight.com

SPEEDY OVERHAUL Speedo’s Richard Ellis reveals the swimwear brand’s biggest untold secret to the world

CRUISE ENGAGEMENT Celebrity designer Issa talks 2012 Cruise designs

We reveal the 5 top lingerie brands that are planning to dip their toes into swimwear for SS12

NEWS REVIEW OPINION ANALYSIS NEW PRODUCTS

Galapagos in C to DD cup

AIS Show : 26-28 July 2011 Moda, Stand C15: 14-16 August 2011 Lingerie & Swimwear

FRONT

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News Review A round-up of this month’s swimwear and retail news.

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Speakers’ Corner Industry members share their views on the extent to which celebrity endorsement drives the swimwear market.

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ON THE COVER 29

Cross Dressing Lingerie Insight speaks to five lingerie brands that will be dipping their toes into swimwear, this SS12.

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Speedy Overhaul Speedo national account manager Richard Ellis reveals the swimwear brand’s biggest untold secret to the world.

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Cruise Engagement We talk to Issa founder and designer Daniella Issa Helayel about the brand’s new Cruise 2012 range.

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REGULARS 38

Products Showcase An inspirational selection of brand new swimwear.

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36 www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

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COMMENT

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING

The water is heating up this July, as the sector reaches boiling point. It is an important month for the industry, which sees two of the biggest trade shows, Mode City and Miami Swim, take place simultaneously for the fi rst time. Multiple lingerie brands are seeking to get in on the action by launching their own swimwear lines. We

bring you the latest news and collections from fresh swimwear entries Fraulein Annie, Dirty Pretty Th ings, Bestform, Fred & Ginger and Elomi. All of these brands will be bringing their own unique selling points to the market, which is set to be thrumming with activity over the next few months. We are also proud to be introducing the re-vamped SpeedoSculpture, a new Gold Partner of this year’s inaugural UK Lingerie Awards, to be held at One Mayfair, this September 7. The impact of celebrity is something that we cannot avoid in today’s mass consumer society. We gain the opinions of a series of industry experts in Speaker’s Corner and talk to the founder of Issa, who designed the Duchess of Cambridge’s engagement dress, about her latest swimwear collection.

KAT SLOWE EDITOR [email protected]

16A Baldwins Gardens, London, EC1N 7RJ, UK Tel: +44 (0) 20 31 764228 Fax: +44 (0) 20 31 764231 EDITORIAL EDITOR Kat Slowe, [email protected] COMMERCIAL SALES MANAGER Andrew Martyniuk, [email protected] STUDIO GROUP ART EDITOR Daniel Prescott, [email protected] DESIGNER Lucy McMurray DIGITAL CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER Hitendra Molleti, [email protected] ONLINE PRODUCTION Ernesto Ceralde, Rose Yorobe PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION GROUP PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Kyle Smith, [email protected] DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER Matthew Grant, [email protected] DATABASE MANAGEMENT Manju Sajeesh, [email protected] CIRCULATION CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE +971 4 286 8559 Web: www.lingerieinsight.com Printed by: Wyndeham Grange

JULY COVER Image: Bestform Model wears: Retro inspired one

piece swimsuit from Bestform Aquasculpting’s SS12 Monaco collection, featuring hidden wires and lined cups for invisible support and comfort in wear. Vertical piping seeks to provide an ‘elongated, flattering shape’. The product is available in khaki/ cream (as shown) or navy/ivory. The Monaco collection also includes a plunge bikini top with side-shaping properties and a choice of high leg or short bikini briefs. 24

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review.

Published by and copyright 2011 Promedia Ltd, incorporated and registered in the British Virgin Islands under company number 1559854.

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

THIS MONTH IN THE UK SWIMWEAR SECTOR

NEWS IN BRIEF OPINION

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SPEEDOSCULPTURE BECOMES GOLD PARTNER AND SPONSOR OF UK LINGERIE AWARDS

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ingerie Insight is delighted to announce that SpeedoSculpture has become an official Gold Partner and Sponsor of the UK Lingerie Awards. The partnership comes as massive momentum is building for the event, for which thousands of nominations were submitted last month at an average rate of 600 a day. SpeedoSculpture’s Richard Ellis said on the Awards partnership: “SpeedoSculpture is delighted to

have become a partner and sponsor of the UK Lingerie Awards. The Awards will present a fantastic opportunity to bring brands, customers and industry partners all together to celebrate the successes achieved by all of the hard work that goes into developing and sustaining a brand.” Lingerie Insight sales manager Andrew Martyniuk added: “I am overjoyed to welcome SpeedoScuplture as a Gold Partner for the inaugural UK Lingerie Awards.As an established and highly respect-

ed brand within the industry, SpeedoSculpture not only adds a huge degree of prestige to the occasion, but also fits in perfectly with our determination to ensure that this is the biggest and the best awards event in the industry calendar.” SpeedoSculpture is a multi-tier body control swimwear platform. Covering four main core areas, Active, Fashion, Underwired and Premium, the brand seeks to offer an all encompassed range of control swimwear products to meet

the needs of all consumers. wired bust support and adjustable straps. “SpeedoSculpture has evolved considerably over the last few years. We have taken steps to move the product away from being a pure ‘swim’ orientated product and have allowed it to flourish, opening opportunities in other areas such as holiday, leisure and spa,” Ellis added. “We feel that the collection for Spring 2012 is the strongest collection yet.”

FOR IMAGES OF THE SS12 COLLECTIONS AND DAILY BREAKING NEWS VISIT www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

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FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

news review

Elite Swim has announced that two of its brands will be featured on new reality TV show Britain’s Hottest Couple. Week 2 of the series will see a photo shoot take place on Blackpool beach, for which Aguaclara will supply the swimsuits for the women and WAXX will supply the board shorts for the men. Contestants were scouted through model agencies to find eight of the ‘hottest, most competitive’ couples, who will then be eliminated each week. The show air this September, 2011, on BBC Three.

Independent retailers are being urged to put their weight behind a campaign to raise the profile of local shopkeepers in the UK. On July 4, 2011, the public will be encouraged to buy at least one item from their local, independent shop as part of Independents’ Day, an initiative led by Skillsmart Retail and the National Skills Academy for Retail in tandem with a number of trade associations. Independents’ Day is an opportunity for consumers to show their support for local shops at a time when much has been made of the high vacancy rate plaguing the high street. Retailers are being asked to promote the campaign to their customers in their shop win-

dows with the ‘Your high street needs you!’ poster and by ‘liking’ the campaign on Facebook and following it on Twitter. A massive 92 percent of retail businesses employ fewer than 10 people, according to Skillsmart, which insists it is vital for businesses to create a strong community around town centres and high streets. Women’s designer lingerie brand Fred & Ginger has announced the launch of its first swimwear collection, Midas Touch, for SS12. The brand’s new collection takes its inspiration from Greek mythology and King Midas, popularly remembered for his ability to turn everything he touched in to gold. In ref lection of this, each piece of the range has been named after a Greek God or Goddess. Egyptian Pharaoh Cleopatra, whose heritage was that of Greek origin, has also provided inspiration through the medium of late iconic queen of style, Elizabeth Taylor, who played the role of Cleopatra. The collection seeks to incorporate both the ‘decadence of Midas’ and the ‘elegance of Taylor’s portrayal of Cleopatra’ through mixing glitter stretch mesh in both black and gold with complimenting sparkling Lycra and gold details.

Fashion label ISSA , who supplied the royal blue silk jersey dress to Kate Middleton for her engagement photographs, has launched a capsule swim collection of one pieces, bikinis, kaftans and jersey dresses, skirts and pants. The pieces use the same colour palette as the ready to wear main line and the kaftans ref lect the seasonal prints. Owner and designer Daniella Helayel’s creations are inspired by her native country Brazil, where she was born and raised before studying at F.I.T in New York, and moving to London in 1999. Helayel seeks to translate unexpected colours, natural shapes and thrill of carnivals into memorable, striking prints in ‘fantastically unique’ colour combinations. Over the years, Issa has been embraced by a growing number of celebrity fans; including Madonna, Laura Bailey, Scarlett Johansson, Kate Middleton, Sharon Stone, Kristen Davis, Kylie Minogue, Keira Knightley and Jennifer Lopez. Lingerie brand Fraulein Annie has announced that it will be expanding its range to include swimwear, this SS12. The new capsule collection, titled ‘Ahoy Sailor,’ features a blue/ nude/off-white colour combination in an array of different styles. Each style is designed to be worn from both sides, with an exclusive print design of dancing sailors on one and a stripe on the other. The padded, structured shapes are also reversible. The collection includes a structured swimsuit with removable

halterneck, a balcony bikini top for DD to G cup sizes, a soft halterneck bikini top, high waisted short and tanga bikini. Each will be retailed separately in order to maximise the customer’s choice. The swimwear line will be modelled in Paris by a singing trio from London, who will be performing a song exclusively for Fräulein Annie. A new video will also be shown at the Mode City trade show for the first time. This summer will see swimwear label Mermaid in England launch its award winning Aquachange collection exclusively with Amazon. The range was picked up by Amazon for its unique colour change designs and will feature in the launch of its new Holiday Shop as one of the retail giant’s premier swimwear brands. Natasha Roy, creator of Aquachange swimwear and founder of Mermaid in England, said: “To be selected by Amazon as a premier brand is a huge thrill. Amazon UK is the ideal site to introduce the Mermaid in England brand and Aquachange swimwear to a wider audience. Our bikinis are designed to be exciting to wear, it’s all about having fun with the colour change effect and really showing off something unique; swimwear changes colour and pattern in water.”

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

SPEAKERS’ CORNER

FRAUKE NAGEL director, Fraulein Annie

JENNIFER STANO founder, Have Faith

CRISTIANA CARWARDINE designer, Nardis Beach

TO WHAT EXTENT DOES CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENT DRIVE THE SWIMWEAR MARKET?

“Getting a celebrity on board to model and

“Celebrities are extremely important and

“ I believe ‘celebrity endorsement’ is a

advertise a product is a classic marketing tool,

valuable to brands, especially in the luxury

significant component in relation to the

but not very original and slightly outdated.

fashion sector such as swimwear. Celebrity

success of a swimwear brand.

The majority of the public understands that

endorsement of swimwear has been around

it’s a business move and not necessarily the

for several centuries and we are lucky at Have

Beach brand at the Miss World contest and

celebrity choosing to wear this outfit.

Faith ,as we have had celebrities like Miranda

Alexandra Burke wore it after her X Factor

Kerr wearing our collection, which has resulted

win, the publicity was important. However, it

character and a story to tell. The Spinettes,

in a massive influx of sales, making certain

did not impact significantly on sales.

for example, are a singing trio from London

items extremely popular. Miranda was spotted

who present our SS12 collection and perform

wearing our Fama bikini, a black sparkly bikini

such endorsement from within the fashion

a song for the brand, these are women who

in knit material with black chain detail, and this

industry and its media acknowledging both

have chosen a genre of music that they

resulted in coverage all over the world, which

quality and design. However, I believe my

love and suits them. This ethos absolutely

has certainly raised the brands profile. We

collection already speaks for itself to the

reflects the Fräulein Annie brand, confidence,

welcome any celebrities to wear pieces from

woman who loves to be individual, confident

assurance and passion.”

our collection.”

and inspired in her choice of beachwear.”

We choose to work with models who have

When Miss England wore the Nardis

I would place a greater emphasis on

NEWS FLASH Australian swimwear brand SEAFOLLY has signed Dutch model MARLOES HORST as the brand’s first international ambassador for a new campaign, launching on July 1. The supermodel has previously featured in the 2010 Pirellu Calendar, shot by Terry Richardson, and as the face of Clavin Klein’s 2011 swimwear campaign. She has also appeared on the cover of Italian For more Elle and Italian Grazia, and was photographed news visit last year by Guy Aroch for British Harper’s www.lingerieinBazaar. sight.com Seafolly was founded in 1975 and has since become one of the world’s most recognised swimwear and beach lifestyle brands. It is currently stocked in major fashion department stores and swimwear boutiques around the globe.

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

27

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY

ENSURE THAT YOU STAY ABREAST OF THE VAT RULES GOVERNING YOUR BUSINESS

JOHN CRAWFORD managing director , The VAT Consultancy

W

hen the standard

Aside from deciding how to

can result in penalties and you don’t

Sale Retail Scheme or similarly based

rate of VAT rose

respond to the recent hike, good

want to be battling against the clock

Bespoke Retail Schemes, and who

to 20 percent in

ongoing VAT management is a must

to complete the paperwork. Records

make supplies at more than one rate

January 2011, it

if you want to have a sustainable

should be retained for six years as

of VAT (standard rate, lower rate, and

business.

they could legally be demanded by

zero rate) are required to separate their

HMRC. Always notify HMRC when

takings at each rate of tax at the time of each supply.

reached its highest ever UK level. Whatever your business, large or small,

So what are the main VAT dos and

VAT affects you, but the good news

don’ts for the swimwear and intimate

major changes take place affecting

is that there are a number of ways to

apparel industry?

tax payable by the business and do it

minimise its impact.

On the practical, accounting level,

within thirty days.

By now, you will certainly have

you do need to get your sums right.

decided whether to pass on the VAT

While HMRC said they would adopt

suppliers, ask for and keep VAT

sales generated at Christmas and New

increase to your customers or absorb

a ‘light touch’ approach to any errors

invoices. These are your evidence to

Year, which could bring a large cash

the cost to keep your prices the same,

or mistakes made in the first VAT

claim back VAT on supplies made to

flow benefit. Similarly, Non Standard

remembering that you still have to

return after the change, their normal

your business.

Tax Periods can be considered, which

pay over the additional 2.5 percent

policy is to make no allowances for

to HMRC. As long as you declare the

mistakes. They will penalise a wrongful

goods, make sure you enter the

with the businesses accounting

correct amount of VAT in place at the

declaration of output tax so don’t

correct rate on credit notes, the value

periods perfectly.

time of the retail transaction to HMRC,

expect leniency. Get your accounting

of gift vouchers to give in return and

the price you charge is up to you. You

right to avoid any fines from the tax

the value of exchanged goods.

are not breaking any law if you decide

man.

to keep to certain price points in spite

When you are dealing with

Retailers may want to consider moving to quarterly returns ending

When customers are returning

Pay particular attention if you

28 February in order to maximise the

can make accounting for VAT align

If you make payments on account to HMRC, the amounts you pay can be reviewed at any time. If you think

or your clients import. Import VAT

your sales may decrease or if HMRC’s

the VAT rate applicable to the products

deferment levels should be kept under

calculations based on the previous

This is obviously a commercial

you sell. This should be reviewed on a

review. SIVA (Simplified Import VAT

year’s VAT returns are flawed for any

decision for your business based on

regular basis and particular attention

Accounting) could be a good option

reason, you should contact them and

what your competitors have been

should be given to products that

but make sure you take further advice

renegotiate.

doing, whether your suppliers are

have items at different VAT rates, for

on this.

increasing their prices and whether

instance a book sold with a DVD.

of the VAT rise.

you feel a price rise may deter your customers from buying from you.

28

It is always good practice to review

It is best to keep a monthly record of your turnover as late registration

Make sure you understand rules

Ultimately the best advice is always to seek clarification if you are unsure

around VAT at the point of sale.

on how to correctly treat an activity or

Retailers opting to use the Point of

transaction for VAT purposes.

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

REPORT / SWIMWEAR LAUNCHES

LINGERIE INSIGHT SPEAKS TO FOUR LINGERIE BRANDS THAT WILL BE DIPPING THEIR TOES INTO SWIMWEAR, THIS SS12, WITH WHAT WE PREDICT WILL BE SOME OF THE SEASON’S HOTTEST COLLECTIONS.

FRAULEIN ANNIE DIRECTOR FRAUKE NAGEL TALKS TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT HER FIRST SWIMWEAR COLLECTION. The Collection: The collection is called ‘Ahoy Sailor’ and comes in a blue/ white/ nude colour combination. It offers five styles to fl atter different body shapes, with cup sizes ranging from A to G. Each style can be worn from both sides with Fraulein Annie’s exclusive print design of dancing sailors on one and a stylish stripe on the other. The styles are retailed separately, maximizing the customer’s choice and offering multiple combinations. Trade shows: Paris Mode City and Curve New York Manufactured: Far East Why have you chosen this year to enter into swimwear? Glamorous swimwear that is fi gure hugging and fl attering can be even more important to a lot of women than lingerie. The market is expanding because it has become less seasonal than it used to be; sales during the winter months are increasing year on year. Summer is still the best time to launch a new line though.

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Which swimwear designers do you personally admire and why? Th is has to be Eres for its distinctive style and modern simplicity. I also applaud newcomer Mouillé for its feminine, fashion-oriented style.

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How is designing swimwear different to designing lingerie? Different challenges? I fi nd swimwear easier to create because it has far less dye-to-match components than lingerie. The fabrics are more forgiving due to the high content of elastane; that makes it less of a (technical) challenge. I had a lot of fun creating it, which is showing, I hope! How have you chosen to balance the collection between fashion and practicality?

Combining style with function is one of Fräulein Annie’s key intentions and something that I think of when I start sketching ideas. It was essential to choose shapes that fl atter different body shapes and include styles that lift even larger busts and fl atten the tummy and hips. The styling had to be glamorous; I looked at photos of movie stars from the 50s for inspiration. A book on Art Deco print design made me think of the sailors that we drew in the distinctive Fräulein Annie style and hints at 1930s avantgarde.

Who would you consider to be your target consumer ? I’m designing for women who enjoy fashion and love individual style. The collections makes you want to go to the pool or beach and have fun. From where do you gain the inspiration for your designs? I love the glamour of the early 20th century and draw on art, fi lm, music and places. The avantgarde of the Art Deco era is a main source since I found a book on 1920s Berlin in the college library when I was a student. Where would you like to see your swimwear stocked? Retailers in Europe and the US who are at the cutting edge of individual style and design. www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

1, 2 & 3 Fraulain Annie’s first swimwear collection, Ahoy Sailor, for SS12

29

SWIMWEAR LAUNCHES / REPORT

BESTFORM LINGERIE MARKETING SERVICES MANAGER KAREN CRAWFORD TALKS TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT HOW THE LINGERIE BRAND HAS CHOSEN THIS YEAR TO LAUNCH ITS AQUASCULPTING SWIMWEAR COLLECTION IN THE UK. 4

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4 Galapagos from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection 5 MIami from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection 6 Monaco from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection

The Collection: Bestform Aquasculpting’s Spring Summer 12 styles feature side shaping panels, hidden wires, lined cups, plunge necklines and balconette shaping. The range seeks to provide comfort, quality and elegance with attention to detail and a fi nish that is fashion inspired - for the woman who is fashion aware, but is not dominated by trends. Manufactured: China Trades shows: AIS and Moda

7 Galapagos from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection 8 MIami from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection 9 Moorea from the SS12 Aquasculpting collection

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Why have you chosen this year to launch swimwear in the UK? The Bestform Lingerie brand has been performing well in the UK and the feedback we have received has been that the shaping and fit on offer, coupled with the flair of French design, has been complementary and much appreciated. The launch of the Bestform Aquasculpting collection is a natural progression for the brand to broaden its offer with the same shaping, fit and

French design flair and to guage the swimwear market for the Bestform Aquasculpting offer in the UK. Do you consider swimwear to currently be an expanding market within the UK and, if so, why? There are several brands which are launching swimwear collections at this time - like lingerie, the swimwear market in the UK is highly competitive. However, there is always a need for dynamism and progression and, if you can marry the function with the personality of the brand, then there is opportunity. How is designing swimwear different to designing lingerie? All Bestform Aquasculpting swimwear is designed by our team in Paris - already launched in France in Spring Summer 2011. The need is to ensure that swimwear, like lingerie, combines functionality with quality fabrications designed to offer comfort and support.

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

There are different challenges. However, the basics are the same - great fit, shaping, support and look whilst designed for purpose. Where have you chosen to balance yourself between fashion and practicality? Both are important. Bestform garments have to be designed for ease of wear, support and comfort, whilst offering a desirable look. Longevity of the product is also important - incorporating quality fabrics and a timeless quality, so that garments can be worn next season and the season after without looking dated. Where would you like to see your swimwear stocked? I’d love Bestform Aquasculpting to be readily available and easily accessible in the high street via independent retailers, mail order and internet retailers, plus department stores.

REPORT / SWIMWEAR LAUNCHES

DIRTY PRETTY THINGS CO-FOUNDERS CLAIRE MERRY AND DEE MURREN TALK TO LINGERIE INSIGHT ABOUT THE BRAND’S DECISION TO LAUNCH SWIMWEAR IN SS12. The Collection: The details will not be unveiled until the collection is launched at this year’s Mode City, but the brand will be adapting the styles of some of its best selling lingerie pieces and introducing a series of new shapes. Manufactured: AJM Sewing, UK Trade Shows: Lingerie Collective and Mode City

times, it looks great on one of us and not so great on another. We try and make sure we have something that suits one and something else that may make another feel more comfortable. We are all different shapes and sizes, some more confident than others and between us we fi nd a balance.

Our customer knows she rocks and is not afraid to stand out. She dresses for herself, as we all get to the point in life when we are aware that, if we are feeling great about ourselves, people are drawn to this – we should never try to dress for someone else, it just does not cut it.

Why have you chosen this year to enter into swimwear? We always had the intention to do swimwear. It’s a natural development of the brand. We have the experience behind us now to be able to feel confident to try something new. Also, we could not fi nd the swim we wanted to wear and buyers kept asking us when we were going to launch swim...

Which swimwear designers do you personally admire and why? Claire : ‘Personally, I love Melissa Odabash. I would say I will get a piece from her collection twice a year. I have some bikinis of hers from years ago and the quality of the garment still looks great.’ Dee : ‘I love some of the younger brands, but I am not going to say who here as this is all about us !’

From where do you gain the inspiration for your designs? We get our inspiration from day to day life. It could be a movie, someone walking down a London street. Our Dawn collection (birds in fl ight) was inspired by a piece of graffiti on a wall in East London. Holidays and travel are always the greatest form of inspiration for us, as for most designers.

Do you consider swimwear to currently be an expanding market within the UK? Yes, absolutely. Over the last few years, it seems to us that swim has become more fun and fashion forward. We are so excited about our designs, because they are certainly not for the ‘shrinking violets’ of this world!

Who would you consider to be your target consumer and how do you consider your swimwear will differ to what is already in the market? Our DPT swim target customer is the same customer for our lingerie, a fashion conscious, strong woman who is confident and knows her own mind.

If you could have any one person wear your swimwear, who would it be? Rosie Huntington Whitely Where would you like to see your swimwear stocked? It would be amazing to have our existing customers stock our swimwear: Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Asos... also Victoria’s Secret.

10 Dirty Pretty Things founders Dee Murren and Claire Merry 10

How is designing swimwear different to designing lingerie? The best thing about swimwear compared to lingerie is you can have a much smaller size range, as opposed to the vast amount of sizes that you have to grade for lingerie. We approach swimwear very much in the same way as lingerie, as we are very strongly design focused and our popularity is Dirty Pretty Th ing’s instantly recognisable signature, which we will be following on with swim. Where have you chosen to balance yourself between fashion and practicality? With everything we design, be it lingerie or swim, we will all try things on in the office and ask each other, ‘Would you ACTUALLY wear that?’ Sometimes it’s a case of, ‘Well, it looks great, but to be honest it’s a bit OTT.’ Somewww.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

31

SWIMWEAR LAUNCHES / REPORT

FRED & GINGER FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR VICTORIA HOLT TALKS ABOUT THE LINGERIE BRAND’S NEW SWIMWEAR LAUNCH FOR SS12. wear is an attire which women seem to update every time they go on holiday. It has become an essential item on the holiday check list. Which swimwear designers do you personally admire and why? We love Roberto Cavali for his amazing swimwear collections, which ooze glamour, elegance and finesse. Who would you consider to be your target consumer and how do you consider your swimwear will differ to what is already in the market? As this is our first collection for swimwear, it was important to us to get some fantastic press, so we have tried to appeal to the celebrity market for our launch, designing for the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Penelope Cruise. However, we would hope that anyone who appreciates high quality, sophistication and glamour will be wearing our designs.

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12 One piece from Fred & Ginger’s first swimwear range, Midas Touch. Image: Alex James 13 Freya bikini from

The Collection: The Midas Touch swimwear collection for SS12 seeks to combine the ‘decadence’ of Midas with the ‘elegance’ of Taylor’s portrayal of Cleopatra by mixing glitter stretch mesh in both black and gold, with complimenting sparkling Lycra and gold details. As the name suggests, the collection has taken inspiration from Greek mythology and King Midas, popularly remembered for his ability to turn everything he touched in to gold. In recognition of this, each piece of the collection is named after a Greek God or Goddess. Trade shows: Mode City Manufactured: Wales

Fred & Ginger’s SS12 Midas Touch collection. Image: Alex James

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Why have you chosen this year to enter into swimwear? Since Fred and Ginger’s launch in 2007,

we have strived to fill a niche in the market for high quality, beautifully designed lingerie that will last forever. Four years on, as the brand is growing successfully, we want to offer this unique luxury in the form of swimwear. We believe it is time that the Fred & Ginger customer has the chance to show off this elegance to the world. Do you consider swimwear to currently be an expanding market within the UK and, if so, why? I do consider swimwear to currently be an expanding market in the UK - for one reason alone. It seems the desire to spend time on holiday has become something very much sought after. I believe people wish to escape their everyday lives for a period of time to enter into a world of pure indulgence. Swim-

SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

From where do you gain the inspiration for your designs? I am inspired by anything and everything. I am actively thinking of new ideas day and night. This season, I was inspired by the extremely glamorous icon Elizabeth Taylor who sadly passed away a couple of months ago. We have taken the glitz and glamour of her classic movie Cleopatra and incorporated this in to our collection, creating some incredibly beautiful shapes with cut away, ruche and crystal detailing. We use the most beautiful glitter mesh with a complimentary shimmering Lycra in both a charcoal grey and silver, and flattering moss green and gold. Where would you like to see your swimwear stocked? I would like to see my swimwear stocked in the likes of the same stores and boutiques that my lingerie is currently sold in. We are focusing more than ever on the Middle East, as the women from this region are truly renowned for their sophistication when it comes to glamour and fashion.

REPORT / SWIMWEAR LAUNCHES

ELOMI DESIGN MANAGER LISEL GEORGE SPEAKS ON THE BRAND’S NEW SWIM RANGE. The Collection: Elomi’s first swim collection seeks to provide confidence with three simple stories - Isis, Yarra and Madeira. It features bra sized swim bra tops, dress sized co-ordinating bottoms in classic brief, high waist brief and skirted brief styles, and tankinis. Trade Shows: Moda Paris, Miami Swim Show, Curves New York and Las Vegas Manufactured: Tunisia

fuller figure. Which swimwear designers do you personally admire and why? Huit and Freya for their directional designs. Spanx and Miraclesuit also create some great styles and shapes. Who would you consider to be your target consumer and how do you consider your swimwear

Why have you chosen this year to enter into swimwear? Having successfully established Elomi as a lingerie brand for fuller figured women, we wanted to push boundaries and offer stunning swimwear. Elomi lingerie holds and supports the figure, so we wanted to mirror this offering with swimwear, making sure women get a great shape.

If you could have any one person wear your swimwear, who would it be? Adele! She would look great in our swimwear!

Do you consider swimwear to currently be an expanding market within the UK and, if so, why? Swimwear is expanding. However, we recognised the gap in the market to provide for the fuller figured woman. We wanted to provide large cup size swimwear that women could have complete confidence in, to look and feel great. 14

How is designing swimwear different to designing lingerie? Are there different challenges? Considerations for swimwear are different compared to lingerie. Aspects such as colour, print and suitability for purpose have to be thought about. Specific points include the durability of materials and strength against sunlight and chlorine - as well as providing garments with different levels of support, which are flattering yet practical.

will differ to what is already in the market? Elomi is designed to be ageless and specifically for women with a fuller figure. We have considered the market needs for the fuller figure and have developed a new concept in swimwear to give the best possible fit. Our styles have more coverage where it is wanted, such as the backs of the briefs, and provide support and shaping. Styling has been worked out carefully to flatter the fuller figure, with details such as adjustable front necklines to allow a low plunge front, and adjustable side ruching to create a great silhouette.

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Where would you like to see your swimwear stocked? Like Elomi lingerie, we want our swimwear to be available to women everywhere, so we’d like to see it stocked in major department stores and all good independents. We also know that our customers are internet savvy too, so online stockists are also important. 16

14 Madeira from Elomi Swim’s SS12 range

How have you chosen to balance the collection between fashion and practicality? The collection was designed fi rstly on practicality, purely for the fuller figure. We then concentrated on the colours, followed by the prints, creating a fashionable range that fits perfectly for the

15 Isis from Elomi Swim’s SS12 range 16 Yarra from Elomi Swim’s SS12 range www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

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SPEEDO / INTERVIEW

SPEEDO NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER RICHARD ELLIS REVEALS THE SWIMWEAR BRAND’S BIGGEST UNTOLD SECRET TO THE WORLD.

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here are few people walking the planet today who do not know the name of the world’s biggest swimwear brand. But their knowledge of Speedo’s recreational product platform, SpeedoSculture, is a completely different matter. SpeedoSculpture was developed to meet the needs of the recreational swimmer who is looking for a little more from their swimwear, by catering for their needs with a range of different products in three defined tiers: Body Control, Cup Sized and Premium Body Control with cup sizes. SpeedoSculpture has been available for six years, but it is only recently that Speedo has chosen to give it a radical overhaul. Over the past 18 months, it has chosen to shift the products’ focus, concentrating on meeting the requirements of the more ‘health and wellbeing’ orientated consumer, rather than the traditional Speedo user. Aimed at the consumer who would not

want to use a more performance orientated swim product, SpeedoSculpture offers certain benefits that other Speedo products don’t have. These include tummy control, adjustable straps and internal bust support in either underwired or non-underwired systems. Speedo national account manager Richard Ellis explains why it has chosen to revitalise its SpeedoSculpture product. “The swimwear market is a changing market,” Ellis says. “Our consumer insights and market data show Speedo is regarded as the market leading swimwear brand in the performance and fitness markets, but there are opportunities for Speedo in other market sectors, including the health and wellbeing sector.” While Speedo has always provided product for this area, Ellis fully admits that it has not really ‘shouted about’ the product offering. But now, Speedo has developed a specialist team which predominantly comes from a lingerie background in order to understand the needs for this consumer and broaden its portfolio to meet their needs. A digital marketing campaign has also just been launched which is using Facebook, You-Tube and a relatively new digital media called ‘In-Skins’ as the main drivers for the promotion. “We have further marketing campaign plans to follow the digital campaign,” El-

“The ‘Secret’ is well and truly out now and is being shared around the internet.” 1

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

INTERVIEW / SPEEDO

lis reveals, “and this will follow in the next few months. The campaigns are centred around our ‘Secret’, which is derived from the fact that we have a fantastic product portfolio that has never really been shouted about... However, the ‘Secret’ is well and truly out now and is being shared around the internet.” The new collection is a big step forward for the SpeedoSculpture brand. The range was pre-lined to a small number of retailers before it was launched and Speedo claims to have received a ‘fantastic’ reaction. RRP’s range from around £30 for the brand’s tummy control pieces through to around £110 for its new Pre-

mium range, which offers all over body control with individual cup sizing from a D to G cup. The SpeedoSculpture platform will be rolling out globally throughout 2012 and Speedo’s partners will be developing their strategies for launching the new SpeedoSculpture products into their relevant markets. Speedo will also be focussing on a series of new products over the next year. Ellis says: “We have a number of projects in the pipeline that will be utilising the expertise that we have in both our R&D division (AQUALAB) and our SpeedoSculpture team. The projects are phased as part of a five year plan. However, we are in the final phase of agreeing a marketing and launch strategy for a new product which will be available in the market for the second half of 2012.”

Richard Ellis’ Top Speedo Styles for SS12 Contourshine and Fluidshine are both completely new full body control underwired suits, available to a G Cup, and are pinnacle products in the collection. Premiere Ultimate is a ‘sports style’ swimsuit in its third season with an integrated underwire bra system to a H Cup. This style goes from strength to strength. Aquagrace and Aquadeluxe both offer a new fashion capsule to the portfolio in Bodysize only, and are quickly becoming recognised as a ‘hot’ product. Premier Classic is available in six colour options. This best price-point story is a great entry level product and is available from a size 8 to a 22. SpeedoSculpture is a Gold Partner of the inaugural UK Lingerie Awards, which will be taking place at One Mayfair on September 7, 2011.

1 One piece in black from SpeedoSculpture’s new SS12 collection 2 Premier Ultimate in black for SS12 3 One piece in blue from SpeedoSculpure’s 2

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www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

new SS12 collection

35

ISSA / Q&A

CRUISE ENGAGEMENT ISSA HAS LONG BEEN A DESIGNER BRAND OF CHOICE FOR CELEBRITIES THE WORLD OVER, BUT IT RECENTLY SHOT BACK INTO THE SPOTLIGHT WHEN KATE MIDDLETON, NOW THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE, WORE THE BRAND’S ICONIC JERSEY DRESS FOR HER OFFICIAL ENGAGEMENT PHOTOS. LINGERIE INSIGHT TALKS TO ISSA FOUNDER AND DESIGNER DANIELLA ISSA HELAYEL ABOUT THE BRAND’S NEW CRUISE 2012 RANGE, WHICH WILL BE INCLUDING A CAPSULE SWIMWEAR COLLECTION.

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Q&A / ISSA

From where did you gain your inspiration for this year’s range? For Cruise 2012, Issa looked to the inspirational work of Matisse’s ‘seconde vie’; an age where he focussed on collages and cut-outs in the boldest, most vibrant primary colours – evoking the grandeur of stained glass windows, colour blocking, geometric cut-outs and explosive prints, in exotic Tahitian colours. They all epitomise a glamorous summer holiday; crystal blue waters, late nights, n exotic palm trees and the heady smell in the air of Manoi and Tiare flowers.

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Y You have a large celebrity followin ing – who are you proudest to have d designed for and why? The first time I dressed Madonna – it ha h had been a dream of mine to one day d dress my idol when I was growing up.

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A Are you currently looking for m more stockists, in addition to Net – a – Porter, Harrods and Matches? M My dream is to make Issa available to w women all over the world and it’s always fa fantastic when a new stockist comes on bo board. At the moment, we’re focussing th the USA, as Issa has never been properly la au launched in America. Then, stand alone Is sa stores will be next, so watch this Issa spa space.

What do you find most challenging about designing swimwear? I’m constantly trying to achieve the perfect fit, so I try all the styles on the girls in my office. We are all different shapes and sizes, so I have a very broad spectrum to play with. This is not the first time you have done swimwear - would you consider making swimwear a permanent part of your offering? I love designing Cruise, it’s possibly the collection I have the most fun with. Growing up in Brazil I spent all my weekends on the beach as a child and love the peace and freedom of swimming in the sea. The Cruise collection is constantly growing and we’re adding more facets to it each season – kaftans, kimono dresses, cute fitted suits and, of course, swimwear. It’s a well-known fact Brazilians cut the best bikinis, so yes, we will definitely carry on including swimwear as part of this collection. How would you sum up the new collection and what do Issa’s designs offer that is different to any other brand? This collection has been created with the glamour and hedonism of the Cote d’Azur in mind. It aims to solve women’s’ packing dilemmas and provide them with the perfect wardrobe for those first sunny days. The colour blocking, cut out prints and Matisse inspired, collage effect prints capture the sunshine and colours of the beach. The real difference between Issa and

o other brands at the moment is that we ooffer women the chance to feel confident aand, most importantly, comfortable in th their outfit whilst looking effortlessly cchic and glamorous.

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You appear to have included a jer jersey dress in the Cruise 2012 collec lection - have you seen demand su surge since you designed Kate M Middleton’s engagement dress? A As always, there are Issa’s signature je jersey dresses in this collection. They aare our trademark and the dress Kate w wore for her engagement is a real classsic. ic. It was shown in 2005; and we have ccontinued to include that style in our ccollections, updating it each season with n new prints and colours but keeping the sh shape the same, as it’s been such a huge su success – women and buyers always co complain if we don’t include that dress in a collection.

1 Issa founder Daniella Issa Helayel 2 Solid in coffee from Issa’s 2011 Cruise collection 3 Solid in plum from Isaa’s 2011 Cruise collection 4

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W What new projects do you currrently have in the pipeline for re S SS12? At the moment we’re still in the early days of research for SS12. We have lots of trips planned to exhibitions etc..., browsing markets, watching films, making sure our eyes are always open to all influences. We are also planning to launch the Issa online shop very soon, which is proving to be a lot of work, but is worth it to make sure women everywhere can find their perfect piece.

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / SWIMWEAR INSIGHT

Tanzania in brown from Issa’s SS11 Cruise collection 5 Kenya in lilac from Issa’s SS11 Cruise collection 6 Kenya in steel from Issa’s SS11 Cruise collection

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SHOWCASE / SWIMWEAR

LUXE BY LISA VOGEL The Luxe by Lisa Vogel SS12 swimwear collection features bikinis, tankinis, maillots and coordinating resort wear that seeks to offer the ‘perfect blend of form and fashion’. The target Luxe by Lisa Vogel customer is reportedly fashion aware, well traveled, and has a sophisticated and refined sense of style. RRP: £80 to £150 Contact: Nicolas Fouchet, +33 95 2259 879 luxebylisavogel.com

MULTI AND SILVER CHAIN BIKINI BY HAVE FAITH. This limited edition bikini is the latest SWIM 2012 BY CURVY KATE

offering from Have Faith, a swimwear brand founded by Jennifer Stano. It

The shape for Curvy Kate’s first swim

features a multi- coloured print with

collection was built from its best sell-

matte silver chain detail and includes

ing Princess lingerie range. It features

a ‘tiny’ triangle string top with brushed

frills, a leopard print and a palette of

silver metal chain detail in the centre. The

purples, blues, pinks and blacks. The

bottom incorporates brush silver metal

bikini bras are foam lined to give added

chain detail on both sides. It sits low on the

lift without extra bulk to the breast.

hips with a full scrunch back.

The tankinis, with integrated bra, are

RRP: £ 43.00

longer than a standard tankini design

Contact: Have Faith, +1 424 653 2611

for ‘added beach confidence’. The

havefaith.com

range is available in D – K cups, with backs from a 28 through to a 40 inch

SWIM SS12 BY HURLEY YC

RRP: tankini £38, bikini top, £32,

Hurley’s motto is ‘microphone for youth’ as

bottoms, £17

the brand reportedly centres itself around

Contact: Curvy Kate, 0208 861 3111

freedom of expression. Its customer is

curvykate.com

‘creative, driven by music, surf, fashion, and curious for the world’. The 2012 swim collection will introduce new convertible styling, updated silhouettes, and prints that range from the signature plaid to contemporary florals and abstracts. RRP: £49 to £79 Contact : Elite Swim, +33 95 2259 879 eliteswim.co.uk

JO JO BY MIRACLESUIT Since the U.S debut of Miraclesuit in 1992, every collection has been designed and engineered to flatter and shape all body types. The latest collection from Miraclesuit features retro styling and firm shape control. The product is designed to immediately lengthen and contour your body, creating a dramatic effect on your figure. RRP: £150. Contact: Patricia Eve, 01423 885374 patricia-eve.co.uk

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SWIMWEAR INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

FABULOUS BEACH KAFTANS HOLIDAY DRESSES BEACH COVER-UPS designed by Lindsey Brown

Launching two new brands for SS12. MyaBlue invites you to view their collections at... London Swim Show The Marriott Hotel, London 24-26th July Moda Lingerie & Swim Show NEC, Birmingham 14-16th August

MyaBlue UK Ltd.

+44 116 2414627

[email protected]

Head Office & Showroom, Tudor House, 913a Uppingham Road, Bushby, Leicester, LE7 9RR, England

OPINION / COPYRIGHT

Tolerance TIMOTHY O’CALLAGHAN, A PARTNER AT ARNOLD FOOKS CHADWICK LLP, TALKS LI THROUGH THE VITAL COPYRIGHT ISSUES THAT ARE CURRENTLY THROWING THE LINGERIE INDUSTRY INTO DISARRAY.

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form of fl attery that designers just have to put up with or an issue so serious that at best it results in a drop in sales, and at worst is putting your brand out of business? Lingerie designers are increasingly taking the latter view. A more bullish attitude to the perennial fashion industry problem of copying is taking hold in the lingerie sector following a spate of recent cases, both home and abroad, in which designers have successfully brought cases against those accused of copying their designs. The fruits of this litigation for designers have generally been; either judgments prohibiting the competitor from selling infringing designs and/or substantial cash settlements. Designers are fi nally making use of some very helpful legal provisions that protect what is generally accepted as being their largest asset: their designs. If any designers are still in denial as to how serious an issue this is for them, just ask Lisa Bruce, who went out of business after a high street retailer began selling a bag for £20 that was remarkably similar to one of hers that she sold for £120. Prior to the advent of European de-

1

1 Arnold Fook Chadwick LLP partner Timothy O’Callaghan www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

41

COPYRIGHT / OPINION

sign protection in its various forms, designers would generally have to grasp around, like a counterfeiting factory owner at a tradeshow, for a cause of action against copiers. They would alight on copyright infringement as the only possible claim. Th is inevitably limited the scope of any claim they could bring, as copyright, whilst it should always be considered when one’s designs have been rippedoff , is something of a blunt instrument. It only affords protection to unique prints, patterns and the draw-

ings from which the design is created. If a competitor made and sold an exact copy of your uniquely appointed bustier, the law of copyright is likely to be as much use to you as a laddered stocking. A far more effective weapon in your legal arsenal is design right protection, something that, in my experience, few designers know a great deal about and even fewer (until recently) take advantage of. Last month a Judge in Utrecht ruled that Sapph had infringed the in-

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2 Lady Gaga wears Marlies Dekkers, known for its iconic over th cup straps

42

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.com

tellectual property of marlies|dekkers by selling bras with straps over the cups (their signature feature). Sapph’s loss resulted in it being banned from selling similar designed bras, having to hand over its existing infringing stock and to pay an undisclosed sum to marlies|dekkers. A resounding success for the creator of what, in the Judge’s opinion, constituted a distinctive design feature. Th is case, although decided in the Netherlands, has added to the confidence of designers in the UK to take on infringers. The decision comes after a similar line of English cases, not a few involving Chloe, who successfully took on the might of the Arcadia Group over a dress – Sir Philip Green is reported as saying, ‘We paid them £12,000 without any admission over whether it was or wasn’t (a copy). We felt it was easier to do that and get on with our lives...’ Jimmy Choo is another brand that has had well publicised success in tackling the titans of the high street over design infringement. So, what form does design right protection take and how can designers make the most of it? You may rely on one or more of the following: 1. UK unregistered design rights; 2. Unregistered vommunity design right; 3. UK registered design; 4. Registered designs at European community level; The fi rst two forms of right, the unregistered rights, exist automatically in respect of ‘registerable’ designs. They therefore exist once you have created a design that is capable of registration. You need do nothing beyond creating the design to acquire the right. The second two rights require you to actually apply for and obtain registration. There are also slight differences in what each of the rights protects and how long the protection lasts. Unregistered community design rights last for three years and the unregistered UK design right for 10 years, whereas registered designs can

OPINION / COPYRIGHT

3

give what are effectively monopoly rights for 25 years. It is important to appreciate that for any of these protections to apply the design must be original and cannot be commonplace. A basic pair of ‘Y fronts’ would not be capable of protection. The unregistered UK right protects the design of any aspect of the shape of the registerable design. The unregistered community design goes further, also giving protection to the colours, shape, texture, materials and embellishments of the garment. It is therefore, generally, a more useful right to assert. As the two forms of registered design give substantially the same protection as their unregistered counterpart, many designers are understandably prompted to ask why they should bother to go for registration at all. After all, 25 years protection of a design is generally more than is really necessary in the fast changing world

4

of fashion, and why go to the cost of applying? These are valid questions but the answer is, to my mind, compelling; There is no stronger form of legal protection for your designs than registered design right. If ever you fi nd someone has copied your designs, having a registered design number and certificate for your lawyer to wave under their nose will often be the beginning and end of any infringement action. Having a registered design makes taking legal action against infringers easier and more cost effective. Th at is not to say that you cannot succeed in bringing action on unregistered design right; you can, but you would actually have to prove on the balance of probabilities that not only does the infringers garment look similar; but also that it was a copy of your own. In short, a more risky and potentially costly case to run. There is an additional and less

obvious benefit to registration; having a portfolio of registered designs makes your business more attractive to investors and potential purchasers. They like to see actual proof, in the form of design registration certificates, of the business’s intellectual property assets. Registering your designs and taking a ‘zero tolerance’ approach to copying will also result in your brand acquiring a formidable reputation in the marketplace; no bad thing in these days when, notoriously, factories can make knock-off copies of designs within a fortnight of the originals appearing on the catwalk. Yes, registering designs does cost (the OHIM fee can be as little as 60 euros per design if a series of designs are registered) but as my clients know and many lingerie brands are discovering; it is worth it in the long run. Tim O’Callaghan (partner) Arnold Fooks Chadwick LLP [email protected]

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

3 Jimmy Choo shoes make an appearance on the red carpet 4 Businessman Philip Green

43

MARLIES DEKKERS / INTERVIEW

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CELEBRITY LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR DESIGNER MARLIES DEKKERS TALKS TO KAT SLOWE ABOUT WHERE SHE GAINS INSPIRATION, HER RECENT COURT CASE AND WHAT IS NEXT FOR HER INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED BRAND.

1 Product imagery for marlies|dekkers SS12 collection

44

What would you describe as your greatest achievement since you launched your company in 1993? I fi nd it hard to name just one achievement, as so much has happened throughout the last 18 years. To name just a few of my personal highlights; when celebrities like Lady Gaga, Britney Spears or Fergie from the Black

Eyed Peas are spotted wearing my lingerie, this always makes me proud. The times I’ve won awards for my achievements, such as The Creator of the Year Award or the Elle’s Innovator of the Year Award, or when I had a solo exhibition with my collections in the Rotterdam Art Hall, or when some of my designs became a part of the fi xed collection of the Dutch Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, defi nitely belong to my greatest achievements. At the moment, I’m launching two brands. The funky and edgy Undressed by marlies|dekkers will come alongside my exclusive range, marlies|dekkers. These are all exciting changes within my company, which belong on the list of achievements I’m proud of. What has been the greatest challenge?

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Being the Creative Director and CEO of such an international and large brand means that there are always a lot of challenges along the way, too many to name. If I got a bruise for every challenge I have ever faced, I would look as if I’d just come out of an extreme car crash! How do you come up with the inspiration for your unique designs? I’m constantly inspired by my surroundings, the literature I read, the art I come across, the music I listen to, the movies I see, etc. I take things from my daily life and totally immerse myself in them. For example, the theme of my upcoming Fall and Winter collections is The Muse. For these collections, I was inspired by my own personal muse, my boyfriend, and strong wom-

INTERVIEW / MARLIES DEKKERS

2

en in history, who have made a difference for women today. Why do you think so many celebrities love to wear your pieces and who have you been proudest to see in your designs? I think that the celebrities who wear my designs appreciate my concept of innerwear as outerwear. My lingerie is meant to be worn as an accessory to your outfit. There isn’t one celebrity I’m proudest of, as they’re all so different. I’m proud of every woman that enjoys my lingerie. How do you plan to build on your current success over the upcoming year? Have you any new, exciting projects in mind? I’m always busy thinking of new innovative ideas. We’re currently splitting

the brand into two brands, which is an interesting and exciting process. Also, I’ve recently launched my own glossy magazine, with more information about the upcoming collections, fashion related articles, my personal tips, shopping pages, etc. The next magazine is coming out at the end of August, so that’s one of the many big projects on my list. You recently won a court case against Sapph for copying your designs. What did it feel like to win and what would you say to other designers who may have been copied? It feels like a triumph for women all around the world. I stand for strong women, and with my lingerie designs I want to enhance the beautiful parts of the female body. The other brand took

my designs and portrayed women as lust objects. By winning, it proves to me that in the end female empowerment, and the image of a strong and confident woman has won. Have you any plans for expansion over the upcoming year and, if so, what are they? My points of sale are defi nitely expanding overseas. I recently opened a shop-in-shop in Selfridges in London, Illum in Copenhagen and Printemps in Paris. Furthermore, marlies|dekkers will be launched at NK in Stockholm in September. Besides opening shop-in-shops, I’ll be introducing my new store concepts for Undressed by marlies|dekkers this year too, which will be totally different to the marlies|dekkers store; a new look and feel, edgier, fresh, cradle to cradle, raw

www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

2 Celebrity designer Marlies Dekkers

45

MARLIES DEKKERS / INTERVIEW

4

mind. In the end, if you want to make a success out of your brand, you’ll have to deal with the hard world of business. There will be a lot of bumps along the way, which you shouldn’t allow to shake or break you. By learning from your mistakes, and getting on with things after bad luck, you’ll only come out the other side stronger. 3

materials etc... You’ll be hearing more of that very soon! What are your plans for the UK market? There’s an exciting new project at the moment, involving young British stylists. They’ll be giving me their own interpretation of my lingerie, which promises to be quite a diverse group of designs. So, I’m looking forward to what they’ll produce. Who knows what the future holds?

3&4 Product imagery for marlies|dekkers SS12 collection

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Where do you hope your brand will be in five years time? I hope my brand will continue to inspire women around the world in five years time. I would like there to be an international ‘movement’, as it were, of women around the world that unite and stand together, and that I can

contribute to that as much as possible. I hope my message of Dare to Dream, Dare to Grow, Dare to Be will be inspiring to women all around the globe. Of course, I wish my lingerie will still be loved internationally, and that I will continue to surprise women with my innovative new designs... What would you consider to be the contributing factors towards your label’s success and what advice would you give to aspiring designers? Never give up, and believe in your product. If you have a strong idea, with a strong thought or philosophy behind it, there’s nothing that can stand in your way. Th is has contributed towards my label’s success. Also, make sure you combine your creative aspects (the designing) with a business

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

How did you start your business? Did you always want to be in the intimate apparel sector? Th roughout my studies, I always had a tendency to design things which seemed to come closest to lingerie. The female body had always fascinated me and I wanted to frame it with my lingerie. I graduated with honours in 1991 from the Art Academy, and received a money prize from the Ministry of Economics. With this money, I started my own brand of lingerie in 1993 and, since then, it has flourished and grown immensely. If you look back, is there anything you would do differently and, if so, what? There isn’t anything I would’ve done any differently, as everything I have experienced has made me who I am today.

FIT FOR PURPOSE Berlei’s NEW Sports range

www.berlei.com

MODE CITY / PREVIEW

LINGERIE INSIGHT PROVIDES AN EARLY PEEK INTO SOME OF THE COLLECTIONS THAT WILL BE GRACING THIS MONTH’S MODE CITY TRADE SHOW IN PARIS.

THE STATS 25,000

buyers in 3 days, including 70% international buyers. 25 promotional offices abroad 426 accredited journalists 500 brands

PRODUCT SECTORS The Essentials, all the big names in corsetry and lingerie: Chantelle, Simone Pérèle, Lejaby, Wacoal... Just Fashion, for fashion and sportswear brands: Seafolly, Banana Moon, Pain de Sucre, Iodus... Designer Labels, luxury intimates and swimwear brands: Andres Sarda, Miss Bikini, Shan, Gianantonio A.Paladini... Cocooning, the best of wellbeing, loungewear, homewear and nightwear: Laurence Tavernier, Le Chat, Derek Rose, Eva B.Bitzer...

DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: SHAN Mode City has picked Canadian brand Shan as ‘Designer of the Year’ for the July trade show in Paris. Mode City judges felt that Canadian brand Shan - considered to be the creator of the ‘Resort wear’ concept - stood out due to the breadth of its range of clothes and swimwear accessories, the brand’s daring style and the simplicity of its lines and cuts. Created by Chantal Lévesque in 1985, Shan designs couture swimsuits, coordinated garments, lingerie and high-end accessories for women and men. The brand is present around the world in more than 400 outlets, from Bon Marché to Harrods and Saks Fifth Avenue. It employs 150 people and has international distribution reaching to over 25 countries. All of Shan’s collections are produced in Quebec, the home of its headquarters and workshop.

PLAYFUL PROMISES SEARS HEARTS THIS SUMMER

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or SS12, Playful Promises will be launching its Heart Noir lingerie collection and a new line of swimwear. The Playful Promises team has been focused on Film Noir, taking inspiration from classic Hollywood crime movies and the 1940’s and 1950’s era. The result is a dramatic collection of black and white lingerie with striking juxtaposition of the two colours. The collection incorporates a moodier range using creams, beiges and blacks. French lace is overlaid on beige panelling in a retro longline bra, inspired by Marlene Dietrich. The longline bra is accompanied with highwaist knickers, a g-string and a push-up bra. Playful Promises has included an ivory range to lighten the collection. This features a tulle and stitch design, and will be available in an underwired bra, brief and g-string. This line also 48

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

includes a garter dress, which hugs the body, with a ruff le at the bottom. The SS12 swimwear collection will have its debut at the UItra catwalk show in Paris. The new range, inspired by tribal Africa, features bold colours and patterns in bandeau, bra’s and briefs. A frilly set is also included with a f loral print of exotic f lowers. The humming bird print collection is a move-on from the f lamingo print collection of SS11. The bright hummingbird digital print is available in a frilly bikini set and a plain bikini set. New to the swim range, Playful Promises has incorporated detailed embroidery on a black bikini set. Vibrant embroidery adorns the brief and bra. Finally, the brand has also included high waist shorties in a tribal green print with black panelling - a contemporary retro design.

PREVIEW / MODE CITY

BERLEI DEBUTS AT MODE CITY WITH TRIPLE THREAT

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erlei will be making its debut at Mode City with three new stories, this July. The three ranges have been developed using feedback gained from the brand’s partnership with an academy of top sports women. With its ultra-sonic cups, cross-lamination back and Fresh Fx yarn, Berlei has invested in the latest technology for the best in support. The products seek to cater for the most active of sports, without forgetting activities like yoga, pilates, trekking and dance, which all require different features. The ‘Beauty smooth’ range is designed to be extra-light with a shaping capability. A new technical fabric with a very high percentage of elastane – specifically developed for Berlei – holds the curves and gently grips to move with you without rolling. Berlei’s third story is a patented innovation. The ‘ultra fit’ wire claims to offer supreme fit and comfort throughout the day, without the wire poking through. The product also features ‘elegant lace’ for an element of sophistication.

AFFINITAS INTIMATES CASTS FEMININE LOOKS Affinitas Intimates is introducing a new range of feminine looks for SS12. The styles from Taylor, Ida, Ashley and Carolyn, come along with a new ‘Packaged Panty’ colourway in yellow/grey/peach (available in hipster or thong styles). In the new groups, Ashley consists of a push-up bra, padded bra, hipster, thong and chemise, in off-white with floral embroidery and lavender bow accents. Ida brings you a padded bra, balconet bra, hipster, thong and bustier in pale pink and opal grey. Carolyn’s ‘featherlight’ fabric is seen in a padded bra, push-up bra, hipster and thong in ivory and fuchsia. Taylor is available in a push-up bra, padded bra, hipster, thong, camisole and chemise. It comes in gingham patterned baby blue and petal pink colorways with eyelet lace trim and bow accents. The existing Bridal group also introduces a new garter belt in shiny ivory or black.

SEASPRAY SWIMWEAR BRINGS A MODERN TWIST TO RETRO GLAMOUR Ref lecting the exotic trend for rich botanical and f loral prints, the brand is introducing four unique print stories: Fifi, Bali, Mauritius and Tahiti. Providing an ethnic f lavour are four more unique print groups: Barbados, Zanzibar, Madagascar and Java. Intense Luxury is shown in three print groups, all with foil: Antigua, Martinique and Tobago.

GOSSARD BOOSTS EGOS FOR SS12 Gossard will be introducing its new Super Egoboost Sweetheart plunge for SS12. The product, which has been two years in making, features the brand’s unique Beautiful Boost technology. Boost 1 is designed to create extra fullness and uplift for the cleavage. For an extra ‘Boost’, the customer can then insert the ‘launch pads’ to get extra volume and push their bust together for greater cleavage. Following the success of the brand’s Ooh La La range, Gossard has also created the new ‘Corselette.’ Key features include chantilly lace, pin stitching and a wide satin elastic at the waist for an hourglass shape. It can be worn with or without straps for versatility and features concealed easy side zip fastening and suspenders. The product will be launched in black and antique ivory. The overall collection concentrates on three key themes. ‘Ladylike Teal’ features bold jewel tones, re-worked into archived 1930’s full bloom prints. Second story ‘The Colour Purple’ takes the glamour route with satins and overlaid delicate laces for a classic lingerie style with a modern twist. Purple tones compliment intense navy and lace in vivid mauves. ‘Lipstick Glam’ combines satins in lipstick shades with rich lace reds and fuchsia pinks for an uplifting tone. www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

49

MODE CITY / PREVIEW

FRED & GINGER HAS INTRODUCED NEW RANGE CANDY GIRL, FOR SS12, INSPIRED BY OLD-FASHIONED PENNY SWEETS.

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roducts include a Rhubarb and Custard bra and knicker set, a Candyf loss demi-cup bra with matching knicker and Bolero Jacket, and a Pear Drop Playsuit. The materials incorporate French silk satin, Crinkle silk chiffons and French Silk Lame chiffon, woven with a silver thread. Silver is also picked up in the Italian Chantilly Lace trim of the range, which features detail such as frills, bows and ruff les. Shades range from bubblegum pinks and sherbet lemons through to peachy melba’s and glittery silvers.

PATRICIA EVE BRINGS MIRACLESUIT DANCE SWIM TO MODE CITY INSPIRES MOUILLE UK Patricia Eve will be presenting Mouille UK’s SS12 swimwear collection is inspired by dance and ballerina movies, such as ‘Black Swan’. For this collection, the brand decided to draw inspiration from ballet costumes, a ballerina’s practice attire and a dancer’s tradition of ‘layering stretch-wear for comfort’. The mostly pastel collection involves sheer mesh panels, structured bodies, rouching, layered straps and bows to create a sense of ‘wrapping’ up the body for ease and flexibility. To date, Mouille UK products have been featured in Cosmopolitan, Grazia and Woman’s Way. The increase in public and retail awareness in the USA, Europe and Asia, has helped the brand drive its overall sales. Mouille UK has reportedly been receiving requests daily about consumers wanting an e-tail facility on its website. The brand’s aim is to provide a site that can be used as a tool to sell its swimwear products in the future. The new website will be revealed soon along with the new collection. 50

Miraclesuit Swim for the first time ever at Mode City, this July. It will be introducing new styles for SS12, including the retro inspired Jo Jo, an off the shoulder costume in block colours and prints called Jena, and Norma Jean. Miraclesuit’s Soft Comfort range will be on display alongside the swimwear line. The collection includes a trio of garments to target the tummy downwards with leggings, a hi-waist thigh slimmer and hi-waist brief. The new adjustable fabric moulds to the body whilst also moving with it. Hidden panels provide directional shape and additional control to target areas. Patricia Eve will also be taking shapewear brand Naomi & Nicole to Paris. The Comfortable Firm range features five pieces, including the Thigh Slimming Torsette, which incorporates the innovative ‘Wonderful Edge’ at the bottom of the thigh to hold the garment in place whilst keeping a smooth, clean line. Patricia Eve will be exhibiting the new Body Wrap collection. This selection of products includes styles such as the Strapless Bodysuit, the Strapless Bra Slip, and the Body Wrap Iridescent.

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JUNE 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

PREVIEW / MODE CITY

PARFAIT BY AFFINITAS FLIRTS IN PARIS

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arfait by Affinitas will be introducing a new range of ‘fun, f lirty’ looks from new groups Alexis, Anna, Isabella, Janet, Kimberly and Isabella in Paris. Alexis seeks to embody retro glam with its ivory padded bra, bikini, high-waist brief and babydoll, which features underwire lace cups with stretch satin side panels and crystal drop detail stemming from a centre bow. Anna includes hot pink padded bra, wire bra, hipster, thong and bustier, featuring intricate embroidery and tassel embellishments. Isabella’s hot pink or lavender all-over f loral pattern is seen in the group’s padded bra, wire bra, hipster and thong, featuring a crown jewel embellishment along with contrast ribbon stitching and lace trim. Melissa’s padded bra, wire bra, thong and hipster come in a peach f lowers colourway, seen in the padded bra, wire bra, hipster and thong. An all-over f loral print is enhanced with a sheer lace overlay trim, with a contrasting white and pink ribbon embellishment for an additional pop of colour. Janet introduces a sporty element to the game with its padded bra, wire bra, hipster and thong in baby blue and silver colourways, featuring smooth microfibre with contrasting striped bow detail. Lastly, Kimberly takes us to the boy’s club in menswear-inspired black with white pinstripes or white with black pinstripes. The padded bra, wire bra, hipster and thong stay feminine with contrast lace detail, bow embellishment, and a cameo charm.

ELOMI MAKES A SPLASH AT MODE CITY

SEAFOLLY LOOKS BACK TO 60S AND 70S

Elomi has announced that it will be launching its fi rst swimwear collection for SS12. The new range incorporates three separate stories: Isis, Yarra and Madeira. Available in both black and aubergine, Isis comes in an under-wired bra that can be worn with a classic brief or a series of other co-ordinates. Yarra reflects a more feminine style with a fl ared tankini, available up to a size 26. A kaftan is also included in the Yarra range, available in sizes M-2XL. Madeira is Elomi Swim’s glamorous option. It comes in both a fl ared tankini and ruched tankini style, available up to a size 26. Elomi design manager Lisel George said: “Having established itself as a fabulous lingerie brand for fuller fi gured women, we thought Elomi was ready to push boundaries, and offer stunning swimwear that gives the same support and is just as fashionable.”

Seafolly’s key inspiration, this season, was the glamour of the 50’s and 70’s and their vintage, cinematic feel. The early 50’s have offered the brand retro polka dots, checks and pinup stripes to play with, designs the brand claims perfectly accentuate its structured silhouettes. The late 50’s offer Seafolly romantic floral designs with a kitsch edge perfect for its ‘playful sexy’ lingerie inspired styling. The swimwear brand looked to the 70’s YSL iconic safari shoot for a savage yet chic edge, incorporating all types of skins, from zebra to leopard. In terms of new product and design innovations this season, Seafolly has used antique look fasteners and trims, eyelet lace up, hook & eye tape, loop elastic and delicate lace edging. Continuing its nostalgic feel, the brand has developed new woven check ‘Sophia’. This yarn dyed check creates a true cross hatch design, rather than the traditional knitted base. The ‘La Luna’ story was created through the development of Seafolly’s laser design, enabling the use of negative space as a distinct style. www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

51

MODE CITY / PREVIEW

LYCRA® BEAUTY BREAKS JAMU AUSTRALIA RETURNS TO MODE CITY INTO SWIMWEAR

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ashion mastectomy swimwear and lingerie label Jamu Australia is set to exhibit in France after a successful year launching the Kakadu Collection in the Netherlands, Canada and Mexico. Australian owner and designer Lydia Leong hopes to impress the French and international markets with her new swimwear collection at Mode City in July. The collection is named ‘Flores’ after an island in Eastern Indonesia, which is largely a diver’s destination for its vivid coral gardens. It offers mastectomy bikinis and one-piece swim suits, as well as an asymmetrical shoulder tankini in Indonesian inspired prints and colours. Also showing at Mode City is Jamu’s mastectomy lingerie. New to the lingerie line is a white and pink cross back Jesse bra, which can also be strapped to become a halter neck bra.

LINGADORE EXPANDS DAILY For the coming SS12 season, the LingaDore Daily collection will be extended with a t-shirt water bra, a new style designed to enhance the cleavage. Despite the financial crisis, LingaDore is continuing to pursue a rapid expansion plan. By the end of this year, LingaDore will have significantly expanded its warehouse space, as the previous space – built in 2007 – is too small to accommodate the company’s recent growth. To keep pace with its international growth, LingaDore has also increased its number of employees. During the first half of 2011, LingaDore has hired additional workforce to support the sales and logistics departments, as well as a new Dutch designer called Shirley Jonkers. In addition, LingaDore has developed an entirely new shop-inshop concept, consisting of large LingaDore walls and horizontal and vertical LingaDore displays. Customers can opt for the entire concept or for separate units of the concept, and thereby create their own LingaDore shop-inshop. Additionally, the display units will come with special poster templates in the well-known LingaDore shape, within which a series of different LingaDore posters can be placed. 52

Fibre and polymer producer Invista has announced the extension of its LYCRA® beauty fabric certification programme, ‘The Science of Shaping™’, at Mode City, Paris, this July 9-11. The garment certification programme was fi rst introduced for shaping intimates at Mode City in September 2010, with commercial programs from brands from around the globe. For 2011, the programme will be looking into new fabric categories, ranging from delicate lace or ultra-lightweight fabrics to seamless garment construction technology, and a more diverse garment offering. It will also be entering into shaping swimwear for the fi rst time. Ninabeth Sowell, Global Marketing Director of the Intimate Apparel and Swimwear Segment for INVISTA, said: “LYCRA® beauty fabric has been a resounding success within the intimate apparel segment and reflective of the market’s heightened shapewear momentum.”

CURVY KATE OFFERS DAILY BOOST Curvy Kate will be introducing the Daily Boost Bra for Spring Summer 2012. The new product will be available in nude and white for the first season, but a black version is already being considered for AW12. Further new styles and colour ways will be seen throughout the range, such as the Fleurty Bra. Other fashion pieces include the hot pink Princess bra, the peach Emily bra and the vibrant blue Angel range. The Showgirl range has been given splashes of colour and a ‘romantic’ look has been introduced into the Tease Me with ivory, powder blue and pinks, and more glamorous numbers such as the white Tease Me Range, which boasts frills. A new swimwear collection will also be launching in January 2012 in D to K cups. The range offers bright aqua frills, prints and a more sporting number to fit with the Olympic Games. The Curvy Kate Swimwear range was developed through the lingerie collection, taking the ‘best selling’ Princess Range and adapting the styling,

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

PREVIEW / MODE CITY

CAKE LINGERIE PRESENTS FINAL PIECES OF BIRTHDAY CAKE

A

t this year’s Mode City, Cake Lingerie will be presenting the fi nal pieces of its Birthday Cake collection, introducing new additions towards its basics range and rewarding its customers with a special ‘Almond’ offer. Th is year, the brand claims to have witnessed a trend towards basics with its Toffee and Dark Toffee bras close to selling out in record time, worldwide. Making its fi rst appearance at Mode City, this year, is Cake Lingerie’s ‘Toffee Latte’ non-wired mould cup bra, for which additional

colourways have already been planned. In its nightwear range, Cake Lingerie will be launching new permanent additions Choc Vanilla Torte and Apple Crumble Torte, along with ‘long-time favourite’ Blueberry Torte. These styles will continue to be offered as part of the brand’s basic range. Additionally, Cake Lingerie is rewarding its customers by offering its latest non-wired bra, Frosted Almond, as a collective set at the price of one bra. The step aims to encourage women to wear matching lingerie every day.

PAOLITA PLAYS WITH THE EXOTIC Born out of the historical European fascination with the exotic and the unknown, Anna Paola has dipped into the mystical world for SS12. Amazon inspired bikinis and one pieces are emblazoned with parrot feathers and palm leaf prints in a myriad of colours, from reds, oranges and purples to rich hues of green, blue and yellow. The nautical inspired collections feature bib style one-pieces, decorated with ‘body art’ love hearts, swallows and butterf lies. Bikinis are given a feminine edge with rope print tops. embellished with gingham frills and cherry blossom & paisley bottoms. Prices range from £49 for bikini bottoms through to £160 for a swimsuit. The full Spring Summer 2012 collection will be available from March 2012.

BEACHLIFE GOES AU NATURAL For SS12, Beachlife will be introducing a new beachwear and men’s line. The Beachlife SS12 collection features ‘natural tranquil’ colour combinations in nine iron, adriatic blue, electric green, bright rose and bright white. Organic prints, inspired by nature in pastels, go hand in hand with abstract flower designs in bright colours. Peacock feathers, lilies and the waves of the ocean are at the base of the prints’ design. Gunmetal trimmings, innovative and robust, will also make their first appearance in the range and are set to become signature feature of the brand in future seasons. A modern clothing line has been created in the same prints and uni colors, including flamboyant maxi, mini and strapless dresses in chiffon and viscose, tunics, bold shorts, feminine tops and a jumpsuit in cotton and viscose jersey. For accessories sunglasses, slippers, beach bags and bohemian beach towels have been added. www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

53

DE MONTFORT UNIVERSITY / SHOWCASE

2

1 3

1 Kate Burredu. (Simon Armstrong)

LINGERIE INSIGHT PRESENTS A SELECTION OF THE DE MONTFORT UNIVERSITY CONTOUR FASHION AND FASHION & CONTOUR DESIGN STUDENTS’ FINAL YEAR DESIGNS, SHOWCASED LAST MONTH AT THE CATWALK GRADUATE SHOW IN LONDON.

2 Phoebe Blockley

5

Campton. (Fabrice Lachant)

7 3 Ashley Edge. (Simon Armstrong) 4 Kirstie Groombridge. (Simon Armstrong) 6

9

5 Carmen Waters. (Simon Armstrong) 6 Sarah Burgess. (Simon Armstrong) 7

4

Sarah Greenwood. (Simon Armstrong)

54

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk o uk

SHOWCASE / DE MONTFORT UNIVERSITY

9

8

2 112 11

13

8&9 Lewis Barrett. (Simon Armstrong) 10 Kirsty Hall (Simon Armstrong) 11

10

Samantha Adlam (Simon Armstrong) 12 Sophie Dillon 16

(Fabrice Lachant) 13 Rosalind Strach (Fabrice Lachant) 14&15 Alexander Rtichie (Simon Armstrong) 16

15

Jessie Morris

14

(Fabrice Lachant) www.lingerieinsight.com / JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

55

BRETTLES OF BELPER / EXCERPT

WITH THE FOCUS OF THE SECTOR FIRMLY FIXED ON A BRIGHTENING FUTURE, IT IS VERY EASY TO FORGET THE PAST. GARY SPENDLOVE DELVES INTO THE HISTORY OF ICONIC LINGERIE MANUFACTURER BRETTLES IN A TIMELY REMINDER OF THE BRITISH LINGERIE INDUSTRY’S RICH AND VARIED HISTORY.

l lenderella Wholesale Ltd managing director Gary Spendlove has worked in the textile industry all his life and he has long associations with the Brettles brand, and the company itself in Belper, Derbyshire. The Brettles brand continues to this day as a division of Slenderella Ltd. It is sold to the public via 700 retail customers and also via its local retail outlet in Belper. rSpendlove, who is both deeply interested and involved in the heritage of er Brettles, co-wrote the Brettles of Belper book with local historian Rod Haw-

1

2

1 A gentleman works a hand frame 2 War Weapons Week, Belper Market Place, 1941

56

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY 2011 / www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

go MA, BSc. The book catalogues the good history and origins of the textile inh dustry in the Derwent Valley, together d w with a complete history of the Brettles co company and its evolution in Belper aand London. An event celebrating the new book w was held at the De Bradelei retail outle let last month in the town of Belper aand was attended by many important m members of today’s textile trade and va various other distinguished guests. This was followed by a guided tour oof the town’s historic sights. The day en ended with an evening reception at the H Herbert Strutt Grammar School, where tthe h official launch took place.

EXCERPT / BRETTLES OF BELPER

3

Gary Spendlove: “I am delighted to have had so much interest in the book. It is being advertised worldwide at the moment by the likes of WH Smiths and Waterstones. “It has not been officially released yet, but we have already started selling it in the local bookstores. We have sold quite a lot of copies, at least a few thousand... We are already looking at a second edition.” 4

Excerpt - Introduction 4

Welcome to the history of George Brettle & Co. I decided to compile this book primarily because the Brettles brand of Belper has a place in history as one of the world’s largest hosiery manufacturers. The company were also one of the UK’s largest employers, employing well over one thousand people in the late 19th century. Of course, in our age of multi-nationals and international business, a company of this size would not be considered as significant as it was a hundred years ago. But it is worth stating that a company like Brettles would still create many thousands of hours of employment for associated and co-operating business, for example with packing, labelling, marketing, photography, transport, etc. You could add to this the many processes of garment manufacture undertaken away from site, such as spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, assembly, etc. All of these processes still come together for distribution from our Belper head office. The earliest records of the Brettle family and its association with textiles appear in the eighteenth century. There was an association with the Wards’ factory in Belper until George Brettle founded his own highly successful business. It is not easy to estimate the wealth of George Brettle but his net income would have been between two and three million pounds a year as a modern day equivalent figure. As with most business, the fortunes of the company fluctuated, but a golden period in the 1930s helped the then chairman Harry Twyford become Alderman, Sheriff then Lord Mayor of London just before Wold War II. There is clear documentation that Sir Harry entertained many members of the British monarchy and royalty from other countries. A wide mixture of international VIP’s were also hosted by the Brettle Chairman, even including members of the German Nazi Party! rs After the 1940 destruction of the London headquarters in the Blitz, the focus of operations was the factory built ill by Brettle at Chapel Street, Belper, which continued until i ithe move to Alfreton in 1987. A major change to the busiof ness occurred in 1964 when the company became part of

the Courtaulds empire. Various management strategies ensured the continuation of the brand, predominantly through the distribution network of what what still called ‘the London side’. A tripling of the company’s turnover in the 1980’s and 90s was again seen to be a strong period for the company under the management of Chief Executive Gwyn Stevenson. Following a failed management buy-out bid in 1997, the business was sold to Leicester based underwear manufacturer Chilprufe. This could have been the end of the Brettles story, but the later demise of Chilprufe allowed Slenderella management to purchase the Brettles and associated brands from the administrator and realise a lifelong ambition to own the brand and return it to its historic home in Belper. The Brettles name is a registered trademark and the brand enjoyed continuing growth as part of the Slenderella group. It is sold to consumers via many retail outlets, mail order companies and internet businesses, and exported to a number of countries around the world. At the start of my career, in a meeting between myself and Tony Gray, the then Managing Director, Tony impressed me with a phrase, saying ‘We are the custodians of the brand’. So I am pleased and proud to say that the Brettles brand is again secure in committed private ownership and in a strong position to expand onwards into the twenty-first century. I hope you enjoy the story. 3

Gary G ary S Spendlove pendlove

Former managing 5

director of Brettles Gwyn Stevenson with sales manager Mike Meredith 4 The authors, Rod Hawgood and Gary Spendlove, with MP Pauline Latham 5 Kilburn Cheveners on Danesbury Rise

www.lingerieinsight.com / JUNE 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

57

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LIMITED EDITION ETHICAL COLLECTION BY AYTEN GASSON Ayten Gasson has introduced a limited

retro shape and enhance the vintage feel

edition range of organic silk and cruelty

of the piece.

free peace silk pieces in time for Autumn 2011. The signature camisole and tap pant

Each item from the brand’s collection has been designed and manufactured in the UK, utilising some of the last

set have been reworked in an ivory

remaining lingerie manufacturers in

peace silk. Unlike the traditional method

England. Many of the pieces are still

of silk production, where the cocoon

hand finished in the designer’s London

is boiled alive, peace silk allows the

studio, whether it’s sewing on a covered

silkworm to emerge from its cocoon and

button trim or hand tying the satin

live out its full life.

ribbon bow details. Ayten Gasson hopes

The classic teddy has been updated

to expand the range for Spring Summer

in a stretch organic silk, trimmed with

2012 and make the collection of ethical

vintage cotton lace produced in the

lingerie a permanent feature of the label.

old lace mills of Nottingham. Hand tied

RRP: CAMISOLE AND TAP PANT SET,

ribbon bows are used to complement the

£120.00, TEDDY, £114.00

www.lingerieinsight.com www.lingerieinsight.com //MAYY JULY 2011 / LINGERIE INSIGHT

59

LINGERIE / SHOWCASE

MIJITO BY MIMI HOLLIDAY For SS12, Mimi Holliday works on juxtaposition, mixing lurid silk satins and soft lace combinations. The new collection includes neon, black, red, polka dot and leopard styles. The brand will be celebrating Part II of Damaris’ 10 years with 15 new stories, mimicking cocktails from the past and present. Examples include a lime green and bubblegum pink leopard print for Cuba Libra, a daffodil yellow and fuchsia for Pina Colada and a peach scallop lace with black silk BRIGITTE CAMISOLE BY FLEUR OF ENG-

satin for Kir Royale.

LAND

RRP: padded plunge, £51, non padded bra,

To celebrate the coming of the spring season,

£51, high waisted knicker, £42, lace hipster

Fleur of England has launched five new col-

knicker, £35

lections. Inspired by the glamorous days of

Contact: Mimi Holliday, 0207 636 7060

‘Bardot,’ the cotton/silk blend of this piece

damaris.co.uk

provides transparency and is contrasted with simple elastic detail. RRP: TBC Contact: Fleur of England, 0117 924 4177 fleurofengland.com TOFFEE LATTE BY CAKE LINGERIE RECITAL BLUE BY LISE CHARMEL

Toffee Latte is the latest style to be launched

Recital Blue in Aurazur is Lise Charmel’s

by maternity lingerie brand Cake Lingerie. The

current best seller for AW11. The set features

balcony style bra features moulded, easy drop

guipure embroidery in bronze, created from

down cups for feeding and the straps, and cups,

arabesques, on a deep blue background.

are cotton lined with inseams for extra comfort.

It incorporates Swarovski jewels on the

The product is made from a microfibre fabric

embroidery and between the cups for an

and comes in nude and black.

‘elegant and sophisticated’ look.

RRP: £36

RRP: balconet bra, £95, shorty, £77

Contact: Keith Hyams, +6 145 0379 970

Contact: Lise Charmel, 0148 865 7900

cakelingerie.com

lisecharmel.com

PUCCI BY LINGADORE Pucci, LingaDore’s current bestseller for AW11, is made from a microfabric, lace and velvet. The balconet bra is available in black in cup sizes A to F. It is pictured here with a string and suspender belt. RRP: balconet bra, £44.38, string, £29.27, suspender, £44.38 Contact: LingaDore lingadore.com

60

LINGERIE INSIGHT / JULY MAY 2011 2011 // www.lingerieinsight.co.uk www.lingerieinsight.co.uk

Featuring: Tango Luxe. D-K cup.

FROM D TO KK CUP

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Ooh La La www.gossard.com +44(0) 115 924 6136 [email protected]