LGBT Guide Mexico City

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Fascinating Culture, Food, Nightlife and Urban Adventure in Mexico’s Maximum City

THE MEXICO CITY MINISTRY OF TOURISM (SecturDF) considers it a privilege to offer this special welcome to its lesbian, gay, bisexual, transsexual, transgender and intersexual visitors. We think “the DF” is soon to be one of your favorite places in the world. Its cultural, social, gastronomic and nightlife options are as diverse as you, ranging from grand historical spaces to fun bohemian watering holes; edgy galleries and endless museums; hotels for every budget, all manner of great restaurants, and incredible street life that fires the imagination. Put together it adds up to tremendous fun and sophisticated urban adventure. Mexico City and SecturDF’s commitment to the LGBTTI community—for citizens and visitors alike—goes beyond flying a rainbow flag in this or that place and advocating for tolerance. Instead, it is reflected in progressive actions designed to enhance equality for all members of sexually diverse communities, most notably exemplified by Mexico City’s landmark 2010 legalization of same-sex marriage, a first for any Latin American jurisdiction. Legal adoption by same-sex couples was enacted the same year. It is also reflected in this official guide to LGBT Mexico City. The first ever of its kind, it focuses especially on the neighborhoods and attractions that LGBT visitors most enjoy, and leads to art, architecture and history amid seven centuries of urban culture in the Centro Histórico; to the alternative charms of artsy enclaves like Condesa and Roma; to the high-end good life and sophisticated style that is Polanco; and not least of all, to the Zona Rosa, the cradle of Mexico’s LGBT rights movement, and of course, home to some of the best gay nightlife in the world. Along the way you’ll read about the city’s hidden gems and less well-known neighborhoods, too. Best of all, it is the people of Mexico City—smart, fun, friendly and hospitable—who complete the mosaic of city life and support its free, open spirit. Look for great insider tips in every section from some of the city’s most fascinating young personalities. They—alongside nearly ten million DF residents—join SecturDF in welcoming you to our spectacular urban celebration. Mexico City Ministry of Tourism

MEXICO CITY GAY PRIDE PARADE

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MEXICO CITY: MAXIMUM CITY Where to begin when describing how much Mexico City appeals to LGBT travelers? It helps that we love urban life. Because Mexico City is Maximum City—and even more incredible when experienced through the lens of queer creativity, wit and style. Start with the history. The capital of the Aztec Empire from 1325, followed by three centuries as a viceregal Spanish city, and Mexico’s center of intellectual, artistic and cultural life in every period before and after independence, Mexico City has always thought big, grand and palatial. Get ready for amazing architecture and a wild combination of the old and the new, the high and the low, that makes for pageantry, nostalgia, and fun, campy contrasts. Then add style. Mexico City is at a high point when it comes to design and the arts, with dozens of edgy galleries, museums that challenge the boundaries, and hundreds of creators, established and emerging, whose genius takes perennial inspiration from the city’s dynamism, color and street life. Then there are the pleasures. Food in infinite varieties, impossibly delicious. Elegance and sophistication in hotels, smart cocktail lounges and cutting-edge restaurants. Nightlife that only ends when you call it quits. And best of all, there’s the joy of city life. The great conversations, the people-watching, the questions that only come up when this many souls get together in one place. It’s also about the LGBT community’s open existence and contributions; the characters and the random encounters; making friends and maybe even some flirt while you’re at it. With all that in mind, we present the LGBT Guide to Mexico City. A highly subjective invitation to take your place in the DF’s dazzling urban pageant. We hope it whets the appetite for more exploration and adventure on this trip and on journeys yet to come. Michael Parker-Stainback AUTHOR AND EDITOR LGBT GUIDE TO MEXICO CITY

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CONTENTS CENTRO HISTÓRICO — P. 4 —

CONDESA/ROMA — P. 14 —

POLANCO — P. 24 —

ZONA ROSA — P. 30 —

OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS COYOACÁN SAN RAFAEL/SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA IN THE FIELD: EXCURSIONS, SPORTS & ADVENTURES

— P. 40 —

LGBT GUIDE MEXICO CITY.. Primera edición: 2012. © Travesías Editores, S.A. de C.V., Amatlán 33, col. Condesa, C.P. 06140, México D.F. Queda prohibida la reproducción parcial o total de esta obra por cualquier medio —incluidos los electrónicos— sin permiso escrito por parte del titular de los derechos.

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CENTRO HISTÓRICO THE TIME MACHINE

FEW NEIGHBORHOODS ON EARTH CONTAIN AS MUCH HISTORY,

architecture, culture and just plain life—high, low and otherwise—as does Mexico City’s ancient downtown, the Centro Histórico. From its legendary beginnings in the fourteenth century, until the last years of the nineteenth, it was home to all of Mexico’s most important government, religious and cultural institutions. After some recent tough times, the Centro is reasserting its central place in the urban fabric—and is an essential stop for every LGBT visitor. Its narrow streets are jammed with incredible architecture; great new hotels and restaurants join old-schoolers that have been there forever; and the museum-going is tremendous. Not least of all, LGBT nightlife is booming downtown. The neighborhood’s intangible urbanity, seemingly lost in time, is something that LGBT people truly appreciate: the city as a place of surprises and freedom; a pageant of the grand and the humble; the temple of high culture, next door to the dive-y corner bar.

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SIGHTS & STROLLS

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Start in Mexico City’s main square, the Zócalo. This was where the Aztecs founded the city when, it is said, they spotted an eagle alighting on a cactus, devouring a snake. (Sound familiar? Check out the Mexican flag). An augur foretold a great city would rise where the eagle landed. And just look what happened. Zócalo highlights include the Cathedral (don’t miss the immense baroque pipe organ and the splendid altarpiece) and to the right is the Palacio Nacional, the seat of the Federal Government.

Begun by Cortés where Moctezuma’s imperial residence once stood, the Palacio Nacional now houses Diego Rivera murals and other artifacts from Mexican history. Between these two structures—like a ghost between church and state—lies the Templo Mayor, i.e., the main Aztec temple, where yes, the human sacrifices happened. Today you explore its ruins and extensive museum.

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From the Zócalo, stroll down Madero Street—the people-watching is great as you pass several magnificent buildings and churches. Madero ends in front of a white-wedding cake of an auditorium: the Palacio de Bellas Artes. Its creamy art nouveau exterior contrasts with a fabulous dark-hued art deco interior; if possible, see an event at the Palacio and with luck, they’ll lower its incredible Tiffany-glass fire curtain.

Outside, walk toward the rear of Bellas Artes and cross over to the Palacio Postal (at Tacuba Street), the city’s main post office. Check out what state-of-the-art communications looked like in 1903, including amazing grillwork and a grand staircase that’s grand enough for even you.

End your tour in Plaza Tolsá, just across the street from the post office, whose centerpiece is an equestrian statue of a tubby and none-too-bright looking King Charles IV of Spain. Plaza highlights include the Palacio de Minería (the classical pile right next door), and Mexico’s National Art Museum, worth a look-see for its architecture alone.

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FROM THE ZÓCALO AND THE PALACIO NACIONAL TO BELLAS ARTES AND PLAZA TOLSÁ YOU COULD EXPLORE THE CENTRO’S NARROW, BUSTLING STREETS FOR DAYS AND RARELY SEE THE SAME THING TWICE. THAT SAID, THE FOLLOWING ROUTE LETS YOU DO THE MUST-SEES IN A FEW HOURS.

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AZUL HISTÓRICO. Isabel la Católica 30 (on the ground level of the Hotel Downtown México); 5521 3295; azulhistorico.com. Mon-Sat 9 am-11 pm, Sun 9 am-6 pm. Refined, “modern” Mexican fare served in a leafy colonial courtyard amid a chic, bustling scene. CAFÉ DE TACUBA. Tacuba 28; 5518 4950; cafedetacuba.com. mx. Open daily 8 am-11:30 pm. A classic, immaculate and kitschy (like at Sanborns, dig the waitress uniforms), featuring traditional Mexican, like enchiladas and tamales. Sundays can include a habit-clad “nun” who hands out breakfast pastries. CASA DE LAS SIRENAS. República de Guatemala 32; 5704 3345; lacasadelassirenas.com.mx. MonSat 11 am-11 pm, Sun 11 am-7 pm. Flavorful Mexican food in a lopsided old townhouse; the terrace offers marvelous views of the Cathedral.

Excellent tortillas prepared by old gals that know what they’re doing. CASINO ESPAÑOL. Isabel la Católica 29; 5521 8894. Mon-Sun 8 am-6 pm. Impossibly palatial. Once you’ve recovered from the grand staircase, the soaring lobby and the 1000-lb chandeliers, slip upstairs for Spanish lunch with hard-coiffed señoras and downtown fat-cats whose dining companions look a little too young to be their wives. EL MAYOR. República de Argentina 17 (on the roof of the Librería Porrúa bookstore); 5704 7580; porrua.com/ elmayor. Mon-Sun 10 am-8 pm. A chic lunch spot with updated traditionals. The views—from the Cathedral to grand colonial palaces and the namesake Aztec temple—are ghostly, poetic and inspiring. PADRINOS. Isabel la Católica 30 (on the ground level of the Hotel Downtown México); 5510 2394; bajodelatintorera.com. Mon-Fri 8 am11 pm; Sat 9-12 am; Sun 9 am-6 pm. Mexican classics and steaks with a hint of French bistro, in the patio of an eighteenth-century palace. ROLDÁN 37. Roldán 37; 5542 1951. Mon-Thurs 10 am-7 pm, Fri-Sat 10 am-11 pm, Sun 10 am-6 pm. A hidden gem, Roldán occupies a restored

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FABULOUS CENTRO RESTAURANTS

CAFÉ DE TACUBA

townhouse on a street few visitors reach. Make the pilgrimage for refined Mexican iterations; the chic/barrio combo is pure Mexico City. SANBORNS (CASA DE LOS AZULEJOS) Francisco I. Madero 4; 5512 7882; sanborns.com.mx. Open daily 7 am-1 am and SANBORNS (PALACIO CONDES DE XALA) Venustiano Carranza 73; 5518 1463; sanborns.com.mx. Open daily 7 am-11 pm. An essential experience, if only for the waitress uniforms. The Azulejos location’s dining room occupies a fantastic colonial courtyard, a routinely packed must-see; the Xala outpost occupies a gorgeously restored eighteenth-century palace. Ideal for breakfast.

“THE CHIC/BARRIO COMBO IS PURE ROLDÁN 37

MEXICO CITY.” 9

“THE CRUSTY WAITRESSES LOVE YOU, THEY JUST DON’T GET STICKY ABOUT IT.” CHURROS EL MORO

OTHER NOTEWORTHY CENTRO RESTAURANTS (IN BRIEF) Al-Andalus. Mesones 171; 5522 2528. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. Authentic Middle-Eastern fare served in an old townhouse, a social center for the city’s Lebanese immigrants. Café del Palacio. Avenida Juárez 1 (in the lobby of the Palacio de Bellas Artes); 5512 2593. Mon 12 pm-6 pm, Tues-Sun 11 am-6 pm. Smart lunches and cocktails amid the Palacio de Bellas Artes’s art deco splendors. Rub elbows with artsy types who’d better

Tequila, Trumpets and Tears FABULOUS DIVES IN AND AROUND PLAZA GARIBALDI Dazzling hotels, restaurants and museums are all part of Mexico City, but its sub-rosa, underground pleasures are also great fun. Plaza Garibaldi, downtown along Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, is the authentically tourist-tacky heart of mariachi music. Hanging out in the plaza is fun (look for “cocktail bars” perched on rolling 10

start suffering if they’re going to finish that symphony. Churros El Moro. Lázaro Cárdenas 42; 5512 0896; elmoro.com.mx. Open daily 24 hrs. Churro “doughnuts” and the hot chocolate is to die for. The crusty waitresses love you, they just don’t get sticky about it. Coox Hanal. Isabel la Católica 83; 5709 3613. Open daily 10:30 am-6:30 pm. Delicious Yucatán food in a down-home atmosphere. Sundays feature mind-blowing entertainment: aging pop divas, EZ listening organ,

vintage-1947 “dirty” jokes… Danubio. República de Uruguay 3; 5512 0912; danubio.com.mx. MonWed 1 pm-9 pm, Thurs-Sun 1 pm-10 pm. Old—and we mean old—school seafood. Traditional, yet nostalgic fun. Hostería de Santo Domingo. Belisario Domínguez 72; 5526 5276; hosteriadesantodomingo.com.mx. Mon-Sat 9 am-10:30 pm, Sun 9-8 pm. . Said to be the city’s oldest restaurant, featuring classics like enchiladas, carnitas, and carne asada—plus offkey live entertainment.

carts); or go “classy” at Salón El Tenampa (Plaza Garibaldi 12; 5526 6176; salontenampa.com. Sun-Thurs 1 pm-2 am, Fri-Sat 1 pm-3 am), an oldschool joint with strolling mariachis. There’s also a brand-new Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal (Plaza Garibaldi [no number] 5529 1238; Sun-Mon, Wed 11 am-7 pm; Thurs-Sat 11 am-8 pm; mutemgaribaldi.com.mx), that celebrates the delicious, dangerous elixirs. Finally, between the Centro and Garibaldi, there are a series of gay places that ride the line between hip

and abject: El 69 (Lázaro Cárdenas 15A), Bar Quiroga (Belisario Domínguez 13), and Go (Colón 30 at the corner of Reforma) are popular at this writing. Have fun, but take reasonable precautions, i.e., don’t get fall-down drunk or try to score something you know isn’t good for you.

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Churubusco Camp Three Must-See Classics from the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema

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From the post-WW II period until the mid-1960s, Mexican movies enjoyed a golden age, and film studios such as Estudios Churubusco made Mexico City the cinema capital of the Spanish-speaking world. We recommend three essential, campy Mexico City-set pictures to get you started. Aventurera (1950). After her father’s lurid suicide, Elena (the fierce Ninón Sevilla) decamps for the big city, only to become ensnared in prostitution, intrigue and nightclub superstardom. Empowered, she sets out to avenge all who have wronged her. María Candelaria (1944) stars Dolores del Río as a (fair-skinned?) indigenous flower vendor in the floating gardens of Xochimilco. She can’t seem to get a break (the piglet!) until a foreign artist makes her his

model, yet association with the bohemian set leads to repercussions. Gorgeous photography by Mexican cinematographer Gabriel Figueroa. Salón México (1949). To send her sister to an exclusive boarding school, Mercedes (Marga López) works as a “taxi dancer” in a tawdry dancehall. Yet Paco (Rodolfo Acosta), hot but bad news, keeps coming around to abuse, steal and generally screw things up. Will Mercedes sacrifice all to hide the truth from her sister?

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LA FARÁNDULA: THEATRE AND THE PERFORMING ARTS Mexico City is a mecca for the arts, with a breathtaking—if not overwhelming—range of options, often on the cheap. On the high end there is what happens at the Palacio de Bellas Artes and other official venues: ballet and orchestra, opera and modern dance, pop concerts and the world-famous Ballet Folklórico, the colorful, crowd pleasing, and quite impressive traditional dance show. Check out the “cartelera” (i.e., “event calendar”) sections on websites like Bellas Artes’s bellasartes. gob.mx or the Mexico City Tourism Ministry’s mexicocity. gob.mx/cartelera. In the middlebrow range, there is almost always an adaptation of the latest (or not so latest) Broadway musical hit, which doesn’t require perfect Spanish—if any—to enjoy. The website carteleradeteatro. mx has information on blockbuster shows plus the current theatrical offering, including cabaret. Finally, live music choices are nearly infinite, ranging from old-style bolero torch songs, danzón or salsa, to folk music, and even curious holdouts like rockabilly, punk and metal. Visit timeoutmexico.mx for the latest listings and recommendations.

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BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel de Cortés, Centro Histórico Avenida Hidalgo 85 (just north of the Alameda Central); 5518 2181; boutiquehotel decortes.com Occupying a recently “boutiqued” eighteenth century monastery, this kicky hotel is now a hotspot, especially weekend nights, when its rooftop bar fills with sexy, well-scrubbed youths of all persuasions. Rooms boast great colonial architecture, then add edgy furnishings, including clear glass look-atme showers that reward you for all that time in the gym.

CENTRO LGBT CANTINAS, BARS & CLUBS EL OASIS. República de Cuba 2-G; 5521 9740. Sun-Thurs 4 pm-3 am; Fri-Sat 5 pm-5 am. Everyone is family here, present for dancing, drag shows and heartfelt karaoke. The crowd spans from papa bears to twinks, plus plenty of girls. More for fun than hook-ups, but you never know… EL VIENA. República de Cuba 2-E; 5512 0929. Sun-Wed 2 pm-1:30 am, Thurs-Sat 2 pm-2:30 am. The grandmama cantina of the burgeoning Cuba Street scene. Weeknights are tranquilo, but once Thursday hits, everyone’s here for fervent jukebox dancing and major eye contact. Mostly men. LA PERLA. República de Cuba 44; 1997 7695; cabaret-laperla.com. FriSat 8 pm-3 am. Said to have opened in 1946 (last remodel 1963?), now everyone comes. Drag performers range from pop-divas and traditional señoritas to fierce 200-pounders and refugees from German

expressionism. Arrive early (the place is tiny) or wait to get in. LA PURÍSIMA. República de Cuba 21; 5704 1995. Thurs-Sat 7 pm-2 am. Big-sister to Marrakech, La Purísima gathers a cute, bohemian crew for frenetic dancing, gogo boys, fun and flirt—amid madhouse, Catholic-kitsch appointments. The upstairs lounge is good for a boozy tête-à-tête. MARRAKECH SALÓN. República de Cuba 18. Thurs-Sat 6 pm-3 am. A bohemian hideaway that kicked off the Cuba Street boom, typically packed with artsy young men (and women) who are easy on the eyes. Camp décor and a friendly vibe add to the charm. OTHER CENTRO NIGHTLIFE OF INTEREST Bar La Ópera. Cinco de Mayo 10; 5521 8375; barlaopera.com. Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am, Sun 1-6 pm. More a gilded-age saloon than mere cantina, style queens love the art-nouveau and flocked velvet wallpaper; sassy grrls thrill to a bullet hole that Pancho Villa left behind (ask a waiter to point it out); and there’s tequila and margaritas for all. Cantina Tío Pepe. Independencia 26; 5521 9136. Mon-Thurs 12 pm10 pm, Fri 12 pm-11 pm, Sat 12 pm-9:30 pm. The working man’s La Ópera (see above), with a stiff shot of belle-époque (that’s taken

“FRENETIC DANCING, FUN AND FLIRT— AMID MADHOUSE, CATHOLIC-KITSCH APPOINTMENTS.” LA PURÍSIMA

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a few hard knocks). Trapped in time—including the regulars—it ain’t swank or chic, yet suitable for all audiences (especially when the crowd gets to singing its offkey torch songs). Hotel Downtown México Rooftop. Isabel la Católica 30; 5130 6830; downtownmexico. com. Mon-Thurs 12 pm-12 am, Fri-Sat 12 pm-3 am. The Centro’s chicest new address, the vibe is great at cocktail hour, lounge-y and relaxed; a highly-heeled, highly-tanned crush hits later on. Miralto. Madero 1 (the 41st floor of the Torre Latinoamericana); 5518 1710; miralto.com.mx. SunMon 1:30-9 pm, Tues-Wed 1:30-11 pm, Thurs-Sat 1:30 pm-2 am. The lounge atop the city’s most beloved skyscraper is more impressive than strictly fabulous, but you cannot argue with the views.

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TOP 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures

MEMO MARTÍNEZ, Broadcast Journalist Carla Fernández. The smart person’s couture, for every body type, a celebration of Mexican textiles unlike anyplace else. Moliere 58, Polanco; 5912 8010; carlafernandez.com. El Patio 77. A quiet, lovely spot for a “dirty weekend” with your Prince Charming—or Marquis de Sade. Icazbalceta 77, Colonia San Rafael; 5592 8452; elpatio77.com. Sangre de Mi Sangre. Fantastic silver jewelry for women and men who can pull off a real statement,

EL OASIS

in style so extraordinary it’s timeless. Orizaba 101 L-F, Colonia Roma; 5511 8599; sdemis.com. Colonia Doctores Flea Market. All the greatest old junk you never knew you needed; the urge to acquire seizes you like a fever. Av. Cuauhtémoc at Colima, Colonia Doctores, Saturdays. The Hermanas Vampiro Show. Always fierce, hilarious and fun; never the same twice. Legendary Mexican susperstars. Sundays 10 pm at Papi Fun Bar, Amberes 18, Zona Rosa.

Memo Martínez is a reporter and on-air personality, host of Glam Show (Channel 52) and Televisa’s Fashionet specials, among other programs, who also works as a fashion producer. 13

THE CENTRO’S BEST MUSEUMS ANTIGUO COLEGIO DE SAN ILDEFONSO. Justo Sierra 16; 5702 2991; sanildefonso.org.mx. Tues 10 am-8pm; Wed-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. Arrayed around a series of tranquil cloisters, this art museum is home to dazzling temporary exhibitions that skew to contemporary work from Mexico and around the world. And don’t miss “El Generalito,” a seventeenth-century chapel featuring incredible hand-carved mahogany choir stalls, pulpits, etc. MUSEO DE ARTE POPULAR. Revillagigedo 11; 5510 2201; map. df.gob.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm; Wed 10 am-9 pm. Dazzling folk art housed in a great art deco building. MUSEO DEL PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES. Avenida Juárez (no number; at the corner of Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas); 5282 1964; bellasartes. gob.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. In addition to its breathtaking concert

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ANTIGUO COLEGIO DE SAN ILDEFONSO

MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE

hall (see the stroll at the beginning of this chapter), the Palacio de Bellas Artes includes a museum that often hosts international blockbuster shows alongside “brand name” murals by Orozco, Siqueiros and Diego Rivera (among others). MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD DE MÉXICO. Pino Suárez 30; 5542 0671. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. Focused on urban history and culture, it contrasts permanent exhibitions with edgier temporary art and photography shows. Don’t miss the building’s cornerstone: an Aztec deity “recycled” as a brick for a conquistador’s mansion. MUSEO DEL ESTANQUILLO. Isabel la Católica 26; 5521 3052; museodelestanquillo.com. WedMon 10 am-6 pm. Late Mexican writer Carlos Monsiváis’s brilliant queer eye is the basis for a rotating schedule of exhibits on everything from cinema, history and design to Mexican popular culture, mounted from “treasures” Monsiváis culled on trips to the city’s flea markets. MUSEO MEMORIA Y TOLERANCIA. Avenida

Juárez (in front of the Benito Juárez monument); 5130 5555; memoriaytolerancia.org. Tues-Fri 9 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-7 pm. This museum of memory and tolerance bears witness to the twentieth century’s most violent genocides and builds awareness of everyday, “harmless” bigotry. MUSEO FRANZ MAYER. Avenida Hidalgo 45; 5518 2266; franzmayer. org.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-5 pm. A gracious colonial-era hospital now houses a decorative arts collection bursting with fab 16th to 19thcentury furniture, housewares, silver, ceramics, tapestries, etc. Even the butchest will catalogue decorating ideas. MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE. Tacuba 8; 5130 3400; munal.com.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. Mexico’s national art museum features an almost exhausting collection of painting, sculpture, etc., from colonial times to the early twentieth century, alongside increasingly notable temporary exhibitions. And the museum itself—a mind-blowing neorenaissance, neo-baroque, neo-wedon’t-know-what-else pile—must be

Colón at the corner of Balderas; 5512 0754; museomuraldiegorivera. org. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Its mural centerpiece is a Diego Rivera masterwork that’s a who’s-who of Mexican history and society. Miss Frida features prominently. Museo Nacional de la Estampa. Avenida Hidalgo 39; 5521 2244; museonacionaldelaestampa. bellasartes.gob.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Mexican printmaking and graphic arts from the sixteenth century to the present day. Pinacoteca del Templo de la Profesa. Isabel la Católica 21; 5512 7862. Sat 12-2 pm only. Worth working around the odd hours: colonial-era religious art that really goes for baroque. Saints and martyrs for days!

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seen to be believed. OTHER NOTEWORTHY CENTRO MUSEUMS (IN BRIEF) Museo Archivo de la Fotografía. República de Guatemala 34; 2616 7057. Tues-Sun 10 am-6 pm. An immense photo archive in a magnificent colonial townhouse. Museo del Calzado. Bolívar 27 (upstairs); 5521 8380; museocalzado. com. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. The DF’s shoe museum, for the diva in us all. Museo del Juguete Antiguo México. Dr. Olvera 15, Colonia Doctores; 5588 2100; museodeljuguete.mx. Mon-Fri 9 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-16 pm. Located south of the Centro, this raffish antique toy collection is irresistible. Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Calle

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BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Downtown México, Centro Histórico Isabel la Católica 30; 5130 6830; downtownmexico.com The brand new Hotel Downtown México is the centerpiece of a grand colonial palace said to have belonged to Moctezuma’s descendants (is that “old money” enough?), and also features two fashionable eateries, a swinging rooftop bar, high-end boutiques, etc. Guest rooms are minimalist to a monastic fault, with chic, high/low design appointments; if you can, splurge on a deluxe suite, which may be the biggest hotel rooms we’ve ever seen.

“...A COLONIAL PALACE SAID TO HAVE BELONGED TO MOCTEZUMA’S DESCENDANTS. IS THAT MUSEO MEMORIA Y TOLERANCIA

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CONDESA/ ROMA THE ACTION

THE ADJACENT NEIGHBORHOODS KNOWN AS ROMA AND CONDESA

encapsulate a lot of what people love most about Mexico City: the old/ new mix, walkable/bikeable neighborhoods, a burgeoning art scene and an overall buena onda (i.e., good vibe) when it comes to life in general. You feel it as you walk the area’s leafy streets and parks, chat in a smart café or meet up for a drink in its kicky, bohemian boîtes. Hard to believe now, but Mexico City’s devastating 1985 earthquake wrought a terrible toll on the area. All but abandoned, rents fell, so artists, free-spirited types and yes, LGBT people moved in. Funky and fabulous was only a matter of time. Things started getting fixed up, restaurants and galleries began to proliferate, and a boom—chic, flirty and irresistible—is in full swing. All in all, it’s hard to imagine a more thoroughly pleasant set-up for urban life.

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Avenida Álvaro Obregón (between Tonalá and Frontera Streets, Colonia Roma). The Roma’s main commercial drag, with its sculpture decorated median, is home to some of the city’s most popular restaurants and bars, great old apartments and soignée design boutiques. Stick to neighborhood galleries if you’re looking to acquire.

Avenida Ámsterdam. (One block from Parque México in any direction, Colonia Condesa). This elliptical street is one of the city’s most charming walks, home to interesting architecture, restaurants, and the city’s flirtiest dog walking.

Avenida Michoacán/Avenida Nuevo León (Colonia Condesa). Here creative types, business execs and ladies who lunch crowd around sidewalk tables to see, be seen, and participate in the urban milieu. Venues range from old school holdovers, now rediscovered, to trendy spots that come and go, or even a traditional market where tasty basics like sandwiches and tacos are had on the cheap.

Calle Colima (between Tonalá and Frontera Streets, Colonia Roma). The Roma street par excellence, quiet, yet increasingly home to quirky shops specializing in design, clothing and accessories for local hipsters, artistes and wannabes. Don’t miss the spectacular residential architecture as you perambulate.

Calle Orizaba (between Puebla and Querétaro Streets, Colonia Roma). A buzzy Roma axis bookended by two lively, lovely plazas. Both feature cafés, restaurants, all manner of loitering lovers, adorable children and dogs of varying adorability.

Parque España and Parque México. (Parque España: where Avenida Nuevo León meets Avenida Tamaulipas; Parque México: surrounded by Avenida México; Colonia Condesa). For many, these two tidy gardens are the true heart of the Condesa. Parque México features pavilions, fountains and pathways for taking a breather, making out, or just general frolicking; weekends are especially delightful.

ALEKZANDER. Álvaro Obregón 130, Colonia Roma; 5264 3843; alekzander.mx. Mon-Wed 1 pm-11 pm, Thurs-Sat 1 pm-1 am. Can there really be room for another vintagelightbulb-illumined dining room in the Roma? At Alekzander, yes, especially when the surrounding appointments—and denizens—evince such impeccable style. A tight menu focuses on tapas, salads and some entrées. BELMONDO. Tabasco 109, Colonia Roma; 6273 2079. Mon-Fri 1 pm-12 am, Sat 10 am-12 am, Sun 11 am-5 pm. Officially inspired by the New York deli, but more like New York Fashion Week, the beautiful people (including you) cram in, especially nights, for artisanal sandwiches, salads, and entrees plus sophisticated cocktails and yummy desserts.

BROKA. Zacatecas 126, Colonia Roma; 4437 4285. Mon-Fri 2 pm-2 am. Total tops beware: Broka has no set menu; everything depends on what looked good that morning at local markets. If you’re willing to roll with it, the rewards are great: tapas, paninis, etc., in a cozy bar-like space. CONTRAMAR. Durango 200, Colonia Roma; 5514 3169; contramar.com.mx. Sun-Thurs 1-6:30 pm; Fri-Sat 1-8:30 pm. A hotspot that really delivers, Contramar serves Mexican-style fish and shellfish. The people-watching is second only to the food’s rich, yet delicate flavor. EL CALIFA. Altata 22, Colonia Condesa; 5271 6285; elcalifa.com. mx. Daily 12 pm-5 am. A traditional taco joint and not exactly chic, it’s a resource—a very tasty resource— when you stumble out of the bars, wide-awake and ravenous. The later it gets, the kookier the mix…be on the lookout for bleary-eyed pop music stars. MÁXIMO BISTROT LOCAL. Tonalá 133, Colonia Roma; 5264 4291; maximobistrot.com.mx. TuesSun 1 pm-11 pm. One of the city’s hottest tables, living up to the hype. Hype about exceedingly fresh,

CONDESA/ROMA

FABULOUS CONDESA/ •ROMA RESTAURANTS

ROSETTA

contemporary recipes prepared with impeccable local ingredients, plus warm service and a cute bungalow setting. MEROTORO. Amsterdam 204, Colonia Condesa; 5564 7799; merotoro.com. Mon-Sat 1:30 pm-11 pm, Sun 2 pm-5 pm. Merotoro blends Mediterranean and Mexican using artisanal ingredients from heirloom farms. Refined in that rustic, industrial way, subdued and intimate. LA CAPITAL. Nuevo León 137, Colonia Condesa; 5256 5159; lacapital.com. Mon-Wed 1 pm-12 am, Wed-Sat 1 pm-1 am, Sun 1 pm-6 pm. A chic room that alludes to mid-century fabulous,

“...A VERY TASTY RESOURCE WHEN YOU STUMBLE OUT OF THE BARS, WIDE-AWAKE AND RAVENOUS.” BELMONDO

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“NIGHTS ARE JAMMED AND FLIRTY, ALMOST DISCOLIKE, BUT AFTERNOONS

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serving up refined versions of Mexican comfort foods along with just the right amount of showmanship. The service is almost humorously chop-chop. ROMITA COMEDOR. Álvaro Obregón 49, Colonia Roma; 5525 8975; romitacomedor.com. TuesWed 2 pm-1 am, Thurs-Sat 2 pm-2

am. Perched atop a fin de siècle townhouse, Romita is pretty close to stunning. Nights are jammed and flirty, almost disco-like, but afternoons may be best of all, when the roof is retracted and sunlight floods the dining room. Updated Mexican classics plus tons of cocktails that skew fruity and girly. ROSETTA. Colima 166, Colonia Roma; 5533 7804. Mon-Sat 1 pm-11:30 pm. Reckoned the city’s finest Italian, delicately crafted and served with love in a chic, antique-filled townhouse. Wait for a table on the main floor; the upstairs dining room is Siberia.

CASA LUIS BARRAGÁN The spare yet somehow baroque former residence of modernist Mexican architect Luis Barragán— a short taxi ride from Colonia Condesa—demonstrates why his work still fascinates and influences the world over. Its blend of natural light, stark geometries and spatial progression is masterful; visitors see Barragan’s furnishings, books and artworks as they were originally placed (and believe us, don Luis put nothing—anywhere— by accident). General Francisco Ramírez 12-14, Colonia Apliación Daniel Garza; 5515 4908; casaluisbarragan.org. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-1 pm. Tours available in English; call ahead for required reservations.

Mexico City’s Bicycle Culture A REVOLUTION ON TWO WHEELS? Once notorious for its smog, traffic and far too many private cars, in recent years the city has made great strides toward cleaner skies, improved public transportation, spiffier parks, and pedestrian-only streets. Maybe the best change of all is an increasing embrace of the bicycle, 20

kicked into high gear by the popular, even fashionable Ecobici shared-bike network, which resident-subscribers use for short hops in central neighborhoods. Visitors can get in on the twowheeled fun Sundays from 8 am to 2 pm, when the DF’s grand Paseo de la Reforma is closed to auto traffic. Bicycle lending stations (separate from Ecobici) line the avenue between Chapultepec Park and the Centro,

and some of the grooviest hotels have bikes you can borrow. Soon enough you’re sailing through the city, next to families, lovers of every stripe, old folks, costumed oddities and of course, their dogs, drawn from almost every class and condition. And did we mention how hot and eco-friendly some of these locals look astride their bikes? You’re sure to smile as everyone tools around, listens to music and just feels free.

NOW THAT YOU’RE COMPLETELY TUNED IN TO MEXICO CITY’S EDGY DESIGN AND ARTS SCENE, you need the right souvenir to show off to bohemian friends back home. There’s great stuff almost everywhere you turn, but avant consumerism climaxes here in hipster heights, particularly along Colima and Álvaro Obregón in the Roma. Check out our favorite alternative emporia. DIME. Álvaro Obregón 185, Colonia Roma; 2454 6790; dimetienda.com. A little bit of everything, all of it cool: bags, tees, apparel, accessories and even retro bikes. FASHION LOVERS. Álvaro Obregón 185, Colonia Roma; 5208 8290; fashionlovers.com.mx. Forum for Mexico City’s most innovative and painfully chic fashionistas. HEADQUARTER. Colima 244 (upstairs), Colonia Roma; 5511 1238; headquarterstore.com. Casual, avant togs plus books, toys and design objects. LEMUR. Jalapa 85 (at the corner of Colima), Colonia Roma; 4622 9275.

Maybe it kicked off the whole Colima boom, with edgy looks and that very edgy (but harmless) guard dog. OCHÖ STORE. Nuevo León 8, Colonia Condesa; 5211 0592; ochostore.com. Chic but hardly tame, the collection exudes a subdued but insistent sex appeal. For men and women. PIER 39. Ámsterdam 258, Colonia Condesa; 5584 8549. Original local designs in apparel for guys and girls, alongside kicky knickknacks and accessories. SICARIO. Colima 124, Colonia Roma; 5511 0396. Apparel—especially highdesign tees—that look great on your slim, Twiggy-like figure.

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ALT.CONSUMER SHOPPING CONDESA ROMA

BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Condesa df, Colonia Condesa Veracruz 102; 5241 2600; grupohabita.mx Still a fundamental Condesa reference and obligatory neighborhood stop. Rooms are tight, but beautifully appointed; a striking lobby conjures up a louche, MiamiBeach ’61 feel that makes everyone look like a star, even if you can’t quite place them. Best of all may be the rooftop bar. On afternoons it’s like the deck of a luxury liner, sailing through magnificent trees; nighttime brings fashionable, fast-talking crowds and lots of hotties, male and female.

“...HIGH-DESIGN TEES— THAT LOOK GREAT ON YOUR SLIM, TWIGGY-LIKE FIGURE.” SICARIO

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BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS Hotel Brick, Colonia Roma Orizaba 95; 5525 1100; hotelbrick.com. The Brick galvanized Roma as a zone of fashionable stores, restaurants and, indeed, neighbors. Common areas occupy an early twentiethcentury mansion—once a bordello—now beautifully restored (we love the tile floor) in chic antiques and contemporary pieces. A subdued tower features rooms with a cool-luxe feel, outfitted with Kiehl’s, iPods and other amusing details. The hotel terrace is marvelous at breakfast or cocktail time.

CONDESA/ ROMA LGBT CANTINAS BARS & CLUBS KEN. Álvaro Obregón 291; Colonia Roma; 4612 1755; Thurs only 10 pm6am. Named for Barbie’s ex, your blond hair will go over big at the bar. An ultra-popular Thursday club, favored by a youngish, bohemianish, mostly male crew of flirty dance fanatics, recently moved to a new location in the heart of the Roma. LIVING. Bucareli 144, between Colonia Roma and the Centro; 5512 7281; living.com.mx. Daily 10 pm-3 am. One of the city’s largest dance palaces, with lights, grooves and go-go boys galore. Big nights feature several dance floors whose djs push the disco envelope; twinks cluster on a pop-music patio. Going shirtless is practically required, yet it’s more about the hustle than the hook-up. TOM’S LEATHER BAR. Insurgentes 357, Colonia Condesa; 5564 0728;

toms-mexico.com. Tues-Sun 9 pm3:30 am. Leather? Mostly found on patrons’ feet. But beyond that, Tom’s is wide-open, with blue movies, immodest “interactive” strippers and a raunchy backroom (watch your valuables), set in a Castle von Dracula meets Prince Valiant setting. The crowd skews late-twenties up and the cruising is relentless. Men only. OTHER ROMA/CONDESA NIGHTLIFE OF INTEREST Bar San Luis. San Luis Potosí 26, Colonia Roma. Mon-Sat 8 pm-3 am. Havana before the Revolution in a classically DF, swank/dive combo, Bar San Luis comes from the old school, serving up live salsa bands, taxi dancers and loungelizards who still know how to move. Service evinces a harmless cosa nostra feel. Covadonga. Puebla 121, Colonia Roma; 5533 2922; banquetescovadonga.com. mx; Mon-Sun 1 pm-2 am. When did fluorescent light get hip? It looks like a VFW hall, but late nights—particularly Thursdays— Covadonga is catnip for the city’s literary and media types, who share space with domino-slamming old-timers. Be ready for tablehopping, intense conversation, edgy fashions and other bohemian follies. Félix. Álvaro Obregón 64, Colonia Roma; 5264 0318. Tues 12 pm-10

“CHATTY PATRONS FILL SMALL TABLES, DISPORT THEMSELVES ON THRIFTSTORE SOFAS OR SPILL OUT LILIT

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TO THE STREET.”

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pm, Wed 12 pm-12 am, Thurs-Sat 12 pm-1 am, Sun 12 pm-7 pm. A sexy sliver of a bar packed nightly with a mixed crew of convivials. N.B.: The bartenders pour ’em tall. La Bonita. Tamaulipas 104, Colonia Condesa; 5211 7098. Tues 1-11 pm; Wed-Sat, 1 pm-1 am; Sun 1-6pm. Shall we call it “cantina chic”? La Bonita might be the place you try pulque, an ancient libation in every flavor from strawberry and pineapple to oats (full-disclosure: even some Mexicans detest it). Lilit. Orizaba 125-E, Colonia Roma; 5264 2669; lilit.mx. Tues-Sun 6 pm-2 am. Cozy and packed with vintage style, Lilit serves up carefully crafted cocktails while attractive, chatty patrons fill small tables, disport themselves on thrift-store sofas or spill out into the street. M. N. Roy. Mérida 186, Colonia Roma; mnroyclub.com. Wed-Sat, 11 pm-6 am. Well-heeled, well-funded revelers shake their tail-feathers till all hours, behind a dumpy barrio façade. The crowd is über easy on the eyes and the glam is palpable. Prepare for time on line and other velvet-rope-related gate-keeping.

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TANIA SOLOMONOFF, Artist Museo Anahuacalli. Diego Rivera’s fortress like studio. Silent, intense, monolithic. Calle Museo 150, Colonia San Pablo Tepetlapa (near Coyoacán); 5617 4310; museoanahuacalli.org.mx. WedSun 11 am-5:30 pm. Espacio Escultórico. A trippy, primal, otherworldly sculpture garden. Great toward dusk after a sunny day. Near the Centro Cultural UNAM on the National University Campus. Café La Habana. Cuban coffee from the old school. I love watching the waitstaff as they hustle in and out of the kitchen. Café La Habana, Morelos 62 (at Bucareli),

Centro; 5546 0255. Mon-Sat 7 am-1 am, Sun 8 am-11 pm. Old folks dancing, Plaza Morelos. Every Saturday at 12, seniors dress up to dance the tango-like danzón in a public park. It’s truly extraordinary! Plaza Morelos, Emilio Donde at Enrico Martínez, one block from Calle Bucareli, Centro; Saturday afternoons. Lucha Libre at Arena México. I love the lights and the fans in their favorite wrestlers’ costumes…the euphoria is real and intense. Arena México, Dr. Lavista 189, Colonia Doctores; cmll.com. Fridays 8:30 pm.

Tania Solomonoff is an artist whose wide-ranging, thoughtful work encompasses drawing, photography, installation, poetry and other media. Follow her at taniasolomonoff.blogspot.mx. FELIX

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BUENAS NOCHES: FABULOUS HOTELS GAY FRIENDLY B&BS Mexico City’s B&Bs—though few in number—offer a more intimate option that many LGBT travelers especially enjoy, with in-home settings (typically a grand old mansion) and hosts more akin to fun new friends than hotel staff. Here are some favorites. Casa Comtesse. Benjamin Franklin 197, Colonia Condesa; 5277 5418; casacomtesse. com. Refined, immaculately run, and perfectly placed in the heart of Condesa. Condesa Haus. Cuernavaca 142, Colonia Condesa; 5256 2494; condesahaus.com. Great antiques and clean lines—plus the staff couldn’t be nicer. El Patio 77. Izcabaleta 77, Colonia San Rafael; 5592 8452; elpatio77.com. Reduce your footprint at the DF’s “Eco-B&B,” nestled in an edgy up-and-coming area. Don’t worry—they do hot water. The Red Tree House. Culiacán 6, Colonia Condesa; 5584 3829; theredtreehouse. com. Warm and friendly, just like the owners, and in a gracious 30’s-era house. Nightly wine tasting means great conversation with fellow travelers.

ARS GRATIA ARTIS: THE CONDESA/ROMA GALLERY SCENE TALENT AND IMAGINATION ON THE PART OF DF ARTISTS, a lot of it on view in Roma/Condesa galleries, is one of the city’s most extraordinary currentday superlatives. Some work presents revisionist iterations of traditional muralism and twentieth-century graphic design, yet now something entirely new. Other work advances the conceptual to create humorous minimalism in contrast to the city’s chaos. Still other artists take up eyewinking “realism” to concoct pure fantasy. In any case, bold, passionate expressions—abstract and figurative, edgy and beautiful—are never hard to find, especially in these, our favorite Roma/Condesa galleries. Note: Gallery hours can be capricious; call ahead for best results. ANONYMOUS GALLERY. Zacatecas 173, Colonia Roma; 6305 0364; anonymousgallery.com. An outpost of the famed New York dealer, often focused on Mexico’s urban artists. ARRÓNIZ ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO. Plaza Río de Janeiro 53, Colonia Roma; 5511 7965; arroniz-arte.com. An influential contemporary space, home to work by Mexico’s most promising creators. CINE TONALÁ. Tonalá 261, Colonia Roma Sur; 5264 4101; cinetonala.com. A film forum featuring everything

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from contemporary Mexican to classics and cult favorites. EDS GALERÍA. Atlixco 32, Colonia Condesa; 5256 2316; edsgaleria.com. Specialties include conceptual art, photography and installation. GAGA ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO. Durango 204, Colonia Roma; 5525 1435; houseofgaga.com. A newcomer that promotes both established and emerging artists. Provocation is a prerequisite. GALERÍA DESIRÉ SAINT PHALLE. Colima 25A, Colonia Roma; 5207 2369; desiresaintphalle.com. A forum

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Old Mexico: The City’s Flea Markets For the queer eye that seeks the unique, the beautiful, the nostalgic or the kitschy, Mexico City’s flea markets do not disappoint.

GARASH GALERÍA

for young and emerging artists and the launch-pad for a number of recent sensations. GALERÍA OMR. Plaza Río de Janeiro 52, Colonia Roma; 5511 1179; galeriaomr.com. One of the Roma’s most prestigious, and a regular player at international art fairs. GARASH GALERÍA. Álvaro Obregón 49, Colonia Roma; 5207 9858; garashgaleria.com. The very latest in contemporary trends, heavy on installation, photography and collage. GURÚ. Colima 143, Colonia Roma; 5533 7140; gurugalleryshop.com. Contemporary pop art, low-brow, surrealism, tiki, retro; urban art with design sense and humor. TRAEGER & PINTO. Colima 179, Colonia Roma; 5525 4500; traegerpinto.com. Contemporary Mexican painting, with some exceptions, is the focus, plus an emphasis on young and emerging artists. VÉRTIGO GALERÍA. Colima 23, Roma; 5207 3590; vertigogaleria.com. Home to some of the city’s finest graphic design, a major force behind the DF’s current street level (and above) design boom.

La Lagunilla. Sundays, approximately 10 am-4 pm, along the Paseo de la Refoma between Comonfort and Jaime Nunó Streets, northwest of the Centro Histórico. Everything from furniture and housewares to artworks, vintage radios and phonographs, eyeglasses, furs (!) plus hats, books, toys, ephemera, music... Not to be missed. Mercado la Ciudadela. Balderas at Emilio Donde, Centro; MonSat 10 am-7pm; Sun 10 am6pm. Every possible souvenir,

from cheap magnets for the girls in the office to guayabera shirts, jewelry and silver candelabras that would make Liberace blush. Tianguis de Cuauhtémoc. Saturdays and Sundays, approximately 10 am to 5 pm, in and around Dr. Ignacio Chávez Plaza on Cuauhtémoc Avenue just east of Colonia Roma. Originally focused on books and toys, there’s also ephemera, movie memorabilia, eyeglasses and artifacts from the high-design 1968 Mexico City Olympiad.

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POLANCO GLAM

POLANCO IS HOME BASE, SHOPPING CENTER, PLAYGROUND AND STAGE SET FOR SOME OF MEXICO CITY’S WEALTHIEST—and an

impressive urban tableau, even if you don’t spend a peso. As with any five-star bubble, there are excesses and follies. At the same time, the neighborhood enjoys a dense urban fabric; is a showcase for much of the city’s most creative design, fashion, art and décor; and is chock-a-block with comely, well-turned-out neighbors (plus pampered pooches) that you’ve got to check out. Not least of all, Polanco is home to a great many of Mexico City’s very finest restaurants; so a splurge (or two) is essential DF. Polanco’s chefs often make great food sublime, in glam surroundings that bring out the superstar in us all.

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FABULOUS POLANCO RESTAURANTS AU PIED DE COCHON. Campos Elíseos 218 (in the Hotel Presidente); 5327 7756; aupieddecochon.con.mx. Open 24/7. More ostentatious than chic, but where else can you get a tasty coq au vin or steak frites at 4 in the morning? The wee hours are best for spotting sloshy, misbehaving celebrities. BAR TOMATE. Emilio Castelar 229; 5280 6099; grupotragaluz.com. MonWed 1:30 pm-12 am, Thurs-Sun 1:30 pm-1:30 am, Sun 1:30 pm-6 pm. Rise above the frenetic dolce vita along Emilio Castelar to Bar Tomate, a cool, loft-like space that’s home to salty tapas and every possible iteration of the eponymous red fruit. A rich antidote to the icy, flavorless tomato currently found north of the border. BIKO. Masaryk 407; 5282 2064; biko. com.mx. Mon-Sat 1:30-5 pm and 8-11 pm. Everyone looks great against Biko’s creamy contemporary lines. In the kitchen, intense, fun-loving chefs

double-track traditional Basque (isn’t it time you tried it?) plus the latest flavors and techniques. CENTRAL BRASSERIE. Masaryk 123; 5545 5628; centralbrasserie. com. Mon-Sat 1 pm-12 am, Sun 1 pm-7 pm. Get your French bistro on, in a gorgeous room that’s cozy and sexy at once. Pricey yes, but we’ve never been disappointed. And the welcome couldn’t be warmer. DULCE PATRIA. Anatole France 100; 3300 3999; dulcepatriamexico.com. Mon-Sat 1:30-11:30 pm, Sun 1:30 pm-5:30 pm. Here’s to the ladies who lunch—in their fur-clad, dearly coiffed glory. They love it at Dulce Patria, where nouvelle Mexican is presented in colors and forms you might sooner expect at an art gallery. EL BAJÍO. Alejandro Dumas 7; 5281 8245; carnitaselbajio.com.mx. MonSat 8:30 am-11 pm, Sun 9 am-10 pm. El Bajío is fun and gaily-colored, and the Mexican food they throw down

is pura tradición—rich, delicious and delightfully comforting. ENO. Francisco Petrarca 258; 5531 8535; eno.com.mx. Mon-Fri 7 am-10 pm, Sun 9 am-5 pm. Pujol’s celebrity chef posits his Eno outpost as a refined “corner store,” with artisanal sandwiches plus soups, salads, fruit ades, desserts and other “simple” delights. HACIENDA DE LOS MORALES. Vázquez de Mella 525; 5283 3054; haciendadelosmorales.com. Open daily 1:30 pm-12:30 am. Remember lunch with mother at the Country Club? Relive the moment at this splendid hacienda awash in conquistador chic. Who cares if you and your date are the youngest ones in the place? LE MAT. Emilio Castelar 149; 5281 1962; lemat.com.mx. Tues-Sat 8 pm12 am, Sun-Mon 8 am-5 pm. Stylish Le Mat highlights French-inspired cuisine with no fear of cream, cheese or butter (from which fellow diners seem to suffer no weight gain). Frilly tableware connects you with your inner grandmother. PUJOL. Francisco Petrarca 254; 5545 4111; pujol.com.mx. Mon-Sat 1:30 pm-5 pm and 7 pm-11 pm. Routinely rated one of the top restaurants on the planet, eating is believing. Chef Enrique Olvera never stops searching for the perfect balance of ingredients, delicate presentation and all kinds of Mexican flavors. The results are extraordinary. QUINTONIL. Newton 55; 5280 2680; quintonil.com; Mon-Sat 1-5 pm and 7 pm-11 pm. Is Quintonil looking to give

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INNER GRANDMOTHER.”

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Pujol a run for its money? Imaginative Mexican that delights as it dances across the palate. And we love the casual tables on the patio. SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL’S. Manuel A. Camacho 67; 5280 6070; winstonchurchills.com; Mon-Sat 1 pm-1 am. Prime rib and Yorkshire pudding amid the campy pomp of an Olde English manse. Absurd yes, but delicious—better than what you last ate in London. TORI TORI. Temístocles 61; 5281 8112; toritori.com.mx; Mon-Sat 1-11 pm; Sun 1-7 p. A spectacular modernist “honeycomb” creates the far-out setting that is Tori-Tori, one of the city’s very best for sushi plus the full slate of Japanese noodles, curries and entrees.

“THE WEE HOURS ARE BEST FOR SPOTTING SLOSHY, MISBEHAVING CELEBRITIES.”

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TOP 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures

MACARIO JIMÉNEZ, Fashion Designer BAR TOMATE

Delirio de Mónica Patiño. The celebrity chef’s market and “deli,” a garden of chic, yet earthly delights. Monterrey 116, Colonia Roma; 5584 0870; delirio.mx. Restaurante Los Tolucos. The city’s best pozole verde—a rich, herby variation of the pork and hominy stew, great for soothing hangovers. Juan Hernández y Dávalos 40, Colonia Algarín (near Metro Lázaro Cárdenas); 5538 1651. Café de Tacuba. Old Mexico in food, color and tradition, a total

nostalgia trip. Tacuba 28, Centro; 5518 4950; cafedetacuba.com. The Ciudad Universitaria. The national university’s 1950s-era campus, with mid-century architecture at its boldest and most stylish. Near the 2600 block of Av. Insurgentes Sur. The fabulous downtown post office. El Palacio Postal is like no other building in the world­—a grand golden cage—and a Mexico City must-see. Main post office, Tacuba 1, Centro.

Macario Jiménez is known for women’s clothes that emphasize flowing lines, sensuality and rich, understated glamour. His namesake Polanco atelier opened in 1994; feel the glam at macariojimenez.com.

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BUENAS NOCHES: HAUTE HOTELS THREE POLANCO SUPERSTARS Camino Real. Mariano Escobedo 700; 5263 8888; caminoreal.com. By architect Ricardo Legorreta, built for the 1968 Mexico City Olympiad, the Camino Real reflects an exuberant design moment in Mexico, now subject to re-appreciation. Dig the fascinating, ocean-like fountain at the porte-cochère as well as the Rufino Tamayo mural in the restaurant. Hot pink and taxicab yellow are your new favorite colors. Habita. Presidente Masaryk 201; 5282 3100; hotelhabita. com. Mexico’s first design hotel and an early manifestation of what led to the city’s current design renaissance. Minimalist rooms posit a marvelous zen, but there is whimsy and sexy where you least expect it. And that scene on the roof just won’t quit. Las Alcobas. Presidente Masasryk 390; 3300 3900; lasalcobas.com. Shop, then drop, in this chic, warm, creamy retreat enlivened by bold furnishings and beautiful burnished woods. No buyer’s regret here.

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BOOM CONTEMPORÁNEO: THE POLANCO ART SCENE GALLERY GIRLS, ART QUEENS, AND AESTHETES of every stripe discover another pole of the DF art scene in Polanco. Its galleries are a big part of the contemporary Latin American art boom that has so many global collectors in a frenzy. And while bargains are hard to find, the work is edgy, original and beautiful. Gallery hours can be capricious; call ahead for best results. GALERÍA ENRIQUE GUERRERO. Horacio 1549, Polanco; 5280 5183; galeriaenriqueguerrero.com. A winning mix of emerging talent alongside “name-brand” creators. Here you may find anything—except boring. GALERÍA LÓPEZ QUIROGA. Aristóteles 169, Polanco; 5280 1710; lopezquiroga.com. Stellar works by twentieth-century masters, particularly photographers. KURIMANZUTTO. Gob. Rafael Rebollar 94, San Miguel Chapultepec; 5256 2408; kurimanzutto.com. Now considered one of the most influential galleries in Latin America, the work is routinely brilliant and always merits a look-see. LABOR. General Francisco Ramírez 5, Ampliación Daniel Garza; 6304 8755; labor.org.mx. A transplant from Colonia Roma, Labor adds an edgier, often conceptual perspective to the Polanco mix. LUIS ADELANTADO MÉXICO. Laguna de Términos 260, Colonia Anáhuac; 5545 6645; luisadelantadomexico.com. An outpost of the famed Spanish gallery, the emphasis is edgy and conceptual. MUSEO SOUMAYA. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Colonia Ampliación Granada (aka Polanco Nuevo); 5616 3731; soumaya.com. mx. The world’s richest man, Mexican communications magnate Carlos Slim, displays his extensive art collection at the Museo Soumaya. Some say its

eclecticism (antique furniture, oodles of Rodins, some sketchy late Dalí, plus not-uninteresting “second-tier” stuff) makes it a glorified attic; others defend a democratic gift (entry is free) to those who normally cannot afford museums. And the Soumaya’s spaceage structure (an armored blender?) is worth the “price of admission” alone. PATRICIA CONDE GALERÍA. Lafontaine 73, Polanco; 5290 6345; patriciacondegaleria.com. Mexico’s sole gallery focused on photography, the work shown is never less than beautiful.

LUIS ADELANTADO MÉXICO

YOUR MONEY IS JUST AS GOOD AS ANYONE ELSE’S IN MEXICO CITY’S flashiest, most glittering quarter. So if you’re the type who can’t go a week without Saks, LV, Ferragamo or Gucci, Polanco’s main drag, Avenida Presidente Masaryk, plus nearby malls like Plaza Antara, Plaza Moliere and Plaza Carso have got you covered. And when you’re ready to act locally, check out the following hometown boutiques for luxury that acts globally. CELESTE HOUSE

“...MAD, EDGY, FUTURISTIC... AND TOTALLY BADASS.” CARLA FERNÁNDEZ. Moliere 58A; 5912 8010; carlafernandez.com. Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm, Sat 11 am-5 pm. Fernández’s striking clothes assert woman as both goddess and warrior. CELESTE HOUSE. Kepler 5, Colonia Anzures; 2614 6031. MonSat 11 am-7:30 pm. celeste.com. mx. Books, music and furnishings; a gorgeous spa; and at the very top, a psychedelic tearoom/bar that wows. CHIC BY ACCIDENT. Laguna de Tamiahua 99 esq. Lago de Texcoco, Colonia Anáhuac; chicbyaccident. com. Mon-Fri 9 am-7 pm. Twentiethcentury furnishings and objêts d’art personally curated by sexy antiquarian Emmanuel Picault. Ask about the dirty stuff. COMMON PEOPLE. Emilio Castelar 149; 5281 0800; commonpeole.com.mx. Tues-Sat 11 am-9 pm, Sun 11 am-8 pm. A mansion-ful of the best, designer stuff

available, displayed with an inspiring appreciation of the rococo. PINEDA COVALÍN. Campos Elíseos 215 at Galileo (with branches throughout the city); 5282 2720; pinedacovalin.com. Mon-Sat 9 am to 8 pm. Silk accessories in a fusion of Mexican motifs and Hermes-like luxe. TALLER BALLESTEROS. Masaryk 126, Colonia Polanco; 5545 4109; ballesteros.net. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm. Wow ’em at your next event with TB’s silver jewelry and tableware in the traditional vein. TANE. Masaryk 430, Colonia Polanco; 5282 6200; tane.com.mx. Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm, Sat 11 am-6 pm. Contemporary accessories and jewelry in cool, refulgent silver. TRISTA. 5250 3623 (by appointment only); trista.com. Couture designs— including menswear—are mad, edgy, futuristic and totally badass.

POLANCO BARS & CLUBS

POLANCO CENTRO

SILVER,SILKEN SPECTACULAR: SHOPPING POLANCO

LGBT Ask all those fit, well-dressed Polanco boys and girls to dance weekends at high-end neighborhood clubs. Lights and sound are spectacular and the crowd is hot; the hauteur is really shyness—so make your move and let the disco ball weave its magic spell. Dress up (skip the shorts, tank tops and baseball caps) and take money. Envy. Masaryk 336, Polanco; Fri only 10:30 till close; envytheclub.com. Perhaps the most exclusive LGBT joint in town, always perfumed and packed. Pop music is the dance fuel. Guilt. Anatole France 120, Polanco; 04455 1378 0992; Sat only 10 pm-4am. Pop music and disco divas in English—in case you’re feeling homesick. Ka. Avenida Paseo de las Palmas 215, Lomas de Chapultepec (just northwest of the Polanco district); 4612 1755; Fri only 11 pm-6 am. Miami-style madness and house grooves Friday nights, plus one of the city’s comeliest crowds. OF INTEREST Jules Basement. Julio Verne 93 (basement; enter at the rear of the restaurant); 5280 1278; julesbasement. com. Tues-Sat 8 pm-2 am. No one enters, they say, who’s not on the list; talk to concierges to get in. Once inside, there’s flawless décor, libations and patrons. Revés. Virgilio 25; 5281 6775. WedSat 5 pm-2 am. Through the looking glass with the city’s jeunesse dorée, in a topsy-turvy setting that out-gilds even them. The vibe is lounge, luxe and louche. 31

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later the neighborhood shows how far we’ve come, with innumerable nightspots, great gay-friendly hotels, and a pride party that some say is the city’s most widely attended public event. So if she looks a little ragged around the edges, remember the old queen took her knocks so you and millions of LGBT Mexicans could dance, romance, love—even

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STARTING IN THE 1980S, MEXICO’S GAY COMMUNITY BEGAN TO TAKE

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FABULOUS ZONA ROSA RESTAURANTS BELLINGHAUSEN. Londres 95; 5207 4978; bellinghausen.com.mx. Daily 1 pm-7 pm. Dating from the Revolution, with steaks and chops from the old school. Scurrying waiters ultimately become live entertainment. BISTRO ARLEQUÍN. Río Nilo 42, Colonia Cuauhtémoc; 5207 5616. Mon-Sat 1:30-11:30 pm; Sun 1:305:30 pm. A casual boîte, but for many, the DF’s most authentic French, including real-live waiters from Gay Paree. Good wines at decent prices, not always easy to find in the DF. BISTROT MOSAICO. Paseo de la Reforma 316; 5514 0450; bistrotmosaico.com.mx. Mon-Wed 10 am-11 pm, Thurs-Fri 10 am-12 am, Sat 10 am-11 pm. A smart French bistro, right on gorgeous Reforma Boulevard. Casual but oh-so civilized.

“...ONE OF LIZ TAYLOR AND RICHARD BURTON’S FAVORITE PLACES,STILL A CLASSIC.” CASA BELL. Praga 14; 5208 4290. Daily 1 pm-7 pm. Traditional service at a spiffy chophouse, with power personalities, in a beautiful mansion and garden. ELAGO. Lago Mayor (no number), Second Section of Chapultepec Park; 5515 9585; elago.com.mx. Mon-Thurs 7:30 am-11 pm, Fri-Sat 7:30 am-11:45 pm, Sun 10 am-4:30 pm. A soaring, elegant “international,” not unlike

CASA BELL

a 60s-era world’s fair pavilion. Live lounge music careens from “Moon River” and “Flashdance” to theme from “Star Wars.” LA FONDA DEL REFUGIO. Liverpool 166; 5525 8128; fondaelrefugio.com. Daily 1-11 pm. A veteran from the Zona Rosa’s glory days (one of Liz Taylor and Richard Burton’s favorite places they say), yet still a classic for yummy high-end Mexican. LA LANTERNA

Jet Set Mexicano GHOSTS OF THE ZONA ROSA

CHALET SUIZO Niza 37; 5511 4471; chaletsuizo.com. mx; Mon-Thurs 1 pm-6 pm, Fri-Sat 1 pm-11 pm, Sun 1 pm-6 pm. Ignore the attempts at modernization and insist on a table in the untouched front room, filled with stained glass, carved wood and other Swiss Missy appointments. 34

During the 1950s and 60s, the Zona Rosa was one of the most glamorous neighborhoods in all Latin America, jammed with high-end nightclubs and swanky, themed “international” restaurants. Today much of the glitter has faded, but hardcore nostalgiacs should make the pilgrimage to these campy holdouts, practically forgotten, soon to disappear. LA LANTERNA Paseo de la Reforma 458; 5207 9969. Mon-Sat 1-10:30 pm. Checkered tablecloth Italian, with wine labels as wallpaper and a “Bankamericard Welcome” sticker on the door. Someone at the next table always mentions being there forty years ago.

LUAÚ Niza 38; 5525 7474. Mon-Sat 12 pm11 pm, Sun 12 pm-10 pm; luau.com. mx. “Exotic” Chinese from the Fu Manchu/Honolulu school. Snag a table on the bamboo pavilion by the koi and rubber starfish lagoon.

ZONA ROSA

ZONA ROSA LGBT BARS & CLUBS HERE IT IS: MEXICO’S LARGEST CONCENTRATION OF LGBT NIGHTLIFE, high, low and otherwise, with something doing every night of the week plus rainbow-colored madness on weekends. Start late and go late; be ready to dance, dance, dance. BOTAS BAR. Niza 47; 04455 1298 8011; Thurs-Sun 9 pm-4 am. Fun honky-tonk for boys and girls. Emphasis on come-hither go-go boys downstairs, plus dance and drag; upstairs is officially lesbian, with gogo femmes and a hot sisterly vibe. CABARETITO. Londres 77, suite 20; 5525 0439. Thurs and Sat 6 pm-3 am, Fry 5 pm-3 am. More about energy than elegance, twink central for dance and flirt, always crowded. CRONOZ. Londres 132; 04455 1593 8690. Thurs-Sat 6 pm-3 am. Humble but heartfelt, the dancing goes from Latin to pop to ballads; latterly favored by girls as well as boys. EL ALMACÉN. Florencia 37; 5207 9424. Mon-Thurs 6 pm-2 am, Fri-Sun

6 pm-3:30 pm. One of the very first gay spots in Latin America, now pushing forty years in business. Heavy on cruising; with strippers weekends and bawdy burlesque on Thursdays. EL NUEVO VAQUERO. Florencia 67; no published phone. Daily 8 pm-3 am. Heaven for those prowling the urban cowboy, with infectious cumbia, norteña and salsa dancing. 42 BAR. Amberes 4; 5208 0352. Tues 6-11 pm, Wed 6 pm-12 am, Thurs 6 pm-1:30 am, Fri 3 pm-2:30 am, Sat 4 pm-2:30 am. How many young’uns can you pack into a disco ball? 42 is determined to push the envelope. GAYTA/PUSSY. Amberes 18; no published phone. Daily 12 pm-2 am.

EL ALMACÉN

Bare bones, perennially popular. Gayta for boogie boys; Pussy favors the Sapphic sisters. LA BOTICA. Amberes 1; 5511 1384; labotica.com.mx. Mon-Sat 6 pm-2 am, Sun 6 pm-12 am;. Vintage-look cantina and major flirt zone, with a mixed boy/girl ratio and a friendly, laid-back vibe. LA SUITE CLUB. Amberes 21; no published telephone. Wed-Thurs, Sun 10 pm-3 am; Fri-Sat 10 pm-5 am. Disco with a surprising amount of hook-up, including some naughty dark areas (libidinous boys should watch their valuables).

“START LATE AND GO LATE; BE READY TO DANCE, DANCE, LA BOTICA

DANCE.” 35

LE CIRQUE NUIT BAR. Amberes 12; no published phone; lecirquemx. wix.com. Fri-Sat 7 pm-2:30 am. Only illumined by video screens, dark and sweaty, mad crowded—and that’s why they love it. LIPSTICK. Amberes 1; 5514 4920. Wed-Sat 10 pm-5 am. The high-end choice on Amberes with dancing, lounge areas and a pop-music patio. Handsome, well-heeled crowd of all ages; Thursdays is ladies-who-do -ladies night. LOLLIPOP. Amberes 14; no published telephone. Thurs-Sat 7 pm-3 am. Going for a slightly higher tone (i.e., cover) on multiple levels that range from cabaret to thunka-thunka disco. Think Cher’s joint in Burlesque. MACHO DANCE BAR. Amberes 24; no published telephone; machodancebar.com. Sun-Wed 3 pm-2 am; Thurs-Sat 3 pm-3 am. More twink than macho, but flirty and packed close, plus they certainly got the dance right. NICHO’S. Londres 182; 5208 1947; bearmex.com. Thurs-Sun 8 pm-2 am;. The DF’s bear bar, fun, ultra-friendly, flirty; with the full range of ursines, bear-cubs and otters, all more cuddly than ferocious. PAPI FUN BAR. Amberes 18; 5208 3755; papifunbar.com. Sun-Wed 3 pm-2 am, Thurs-Sat 3 pm-3 am. Electric and compact, filled with freshly-minted eye-candy. Here they start early and go late. SEVEN. Liverpool 100; no published phone. Thurs-Sat, 10 pm-till closing. Newcomer club in an elegant townhouse, with rotating djs and parties. Lately Thursdays have been about drag and transgender. TOUCH. Amberes 11; 5511 9973. MonThurs 6 pm-12 pm, Fry-Sat 6 pm-3 am. Flashy and loungy, with rotating entertainment that ranges from live rock to karaoke, latin grooves and techno. 36

FIT FOR AN EMPRESS PASEO DE LA REFORMA AND CHAPULTEPEC PARK As you explore the Zona Rosa, do not miss the broad boulevard the forms the neighborhood’s northern border: Paseo de la Reforma, the DF’s answer to the Champs-Elysees. Originally built in honor of Mexico’s Empress Carlota (see below), it is now lined with imposing skyscrapers, trees and monuments, particularly the Monumento a la Independencia, a beaux-arts column whose crowning figure, popularly called El Ángel, is the unofficial symbol of the city. Peoplewatching peaks at lunchtime or on bike-only Sundays. West of the Zona Rosa lies Chapultepec Park, an expansive, lively, and well-tended garden that combines monuments and museums

with a marvelous human element. Climb up to Chapultepec Castle, preserved in all but name as a shrine to Maximilian and Carlota, the European-born Emperor and Empress who ruled Mexico from 1863-1867. The pile is awash in queenly delights like gilt carriages, refulgent china, crystal, antiques, and even her Majesty’s marble water closet. Museo Nacional de Historia; Tues-Sun 9 am-5 pm; castillodechapultepec.inah.gob.mx. OTHER NOTEWORTHY CHAPULTEPEC SITES (IN BRIEF) Museo de Arte Moderno. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside

CHAPULTEPEC CASTLE

ZONA CENTRO ROSA CHAPULTEPEC PARK

Chapultepec Park; 5553 6233; mam. org.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-5:30 pm. A sensual mid-century space houses classics you know—Rivera and Siqueiros—plus artworks you should know. Museo Nacional de Antropología. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside Chapultepec Park; 5553 6332; mna.inah.gob. Tues-Sun 9 am-7pm. The Vatican Museum of Mexico’s pre-Colombian civilizations. In a hurry? Jump to Maya and Aztec galleries for greatest hits—but in fact it’s all fascinating. The 1966 museum structure still impresses. Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporáneo. Gandhi at Reforma (no number) inside Chapultepec Park; 5286 6519; museotamayo.org. TuesSun 10 am-6 pm. The permanent collection is home to contemporary “names” like Rothko and Miró; temporary shows are among Latin America’s finest.

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TOP 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures

HERMANAS VAMPIRO, Drag Superstars Agapi Mu. A fabulous Mediterranean joint. Watch out for Zorba-style flying plates! Alfonso Reyes 96, Colonia Condesa; 5286 1384; agapimu.com.mx. All-Night Flower Stand, Colonia Roma. Love and grand gestures do not follow a regular schedule, so there’s a bodacious 365/24/7 flower stand in the heart of the Roma. At the corner of Insurgentes and Medellín Streets. Rainbowland. Come out in a blaze of rainbow colors, at the boutique with everything from souvenirs to

sexy surprises. Estrasburgo 31 at Amberes, Zona Rosa; 5525 9066; rainbowland.com.mx. The Flea Market on Álvaro Obregón. Urban adventure for treasure hunters. The median strip on Álvaro Obregón Street in the Roma, Saturdays approximately 10 am to 5 pm. Museo del Estanquillo. Mexico’s pop culture museum is an orgy for the senses that combines ideas, literature, the cinema and music. Isabel la Católica 26; 5521 3052; museodelestanquillo.com.

Billed as “Latin America’s Most Important Drag Act,” the Hermanas Vampiro perform Sunday nights at Papi Fun Bar in the Zona Rosa. Follow their ever-changing moods at facebook.com/LasHermanasVampiro. 37

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BUENAS NOCHES: THE DF’S LGBT-FRIENDLIEST HOTELS The legalization of same-sex marriage in Mexico City—along with its increasing popularity as an LGBT destination—means a lot of hotels, old and new, are rolling out the rainbow carpet. Hotel Geneve. Londres 130, Zona Rosa; 5080 0800; hotelgeneve.com.mx. Over the top, campy grandeur and not crazy expensive. In the heart of the Zona Rosa with a Sanborns in the lobby. LGBT heaven, right? HOTEL VALENTINA

Hilton Mexico City Reforma. Avenida Juárez 70, Centro; 5130 5300; hilton.com. Not unlike the Hilton in Houston or Altanta— but isn’t that the point? Great, no-surprises professionalism. Holiday Inn Mexico Zona Rosa. Londres 15, Zona Rosa; 5141 6020; holidayinn.com. Cozy and well-run, with the right location, and very ready to host your wedding. Hotel del Principado. Londres 42, Zona Rosa; 5533 2944; hoteldelprincipado.com. mx. Moderate prices and prime Zona Rosa location just add to the plusses. Immaculately clean with ultra-friendly service.

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Hotel JW Marriott. Andrés Bello 29, Polanco; 5999 0000; espanol.marriott. com. Honeymoon in Polanco? Grand and perfectly run, the JW Marriott positions itself as one of the city’s number-one spots for same-sex marriage. Hotel Valentina (by Room Mate Hotels). Amberes 27, Zona Rosa; 5080 4500; room-matehotels.com. Ultra-kicky boutique, with gaily-colored style on raucous Amberes Street. The whole Zona Rosa scene is right outside your door. Promise you’ll visit other streets, too. W Mexico City. Campos Elíseos 252, Polanco; 9138 1800; starwoodhotels. com. High-modern style, plus drama and a hint of sex, just the way we like it.

PICANTE: SAU N AS, BAT H H O US ES & C I RCU I T PA RT I ES

With a discreet wink we’ll cop to what everyone knows: its always fun to flirt and play when you travel. All cities are sexy, but it really hits a high gear in DF. Even if your Spanish is muy malo, a smile and an “Hola!” are usually all it takes to get the ball rolling. From there you rely on non-verbal communication. Below are some of the city’s hottest spots when you’re feeling extra friendly. Baños San Juan. López 120, Centro; 5521 3376; daily 6 am-8:30 pm. Inelegant, but clean and very active bathhouse, especially afternoons. Skews older but there’s a little something for every taste. Red Hot Party. Río Pánuco 120-A, Colonia Cuauhtémoc; 04455 4833 9278; Mon, Wed, Sun 5-11 pm; Fri-Sat 10pm-6am. Popular underwear party for everyone from twinks to daddies. Sodomé. Mariano Escobedo 716, Polanco; 5250 6653; Tues-Wed 4 pm-12 am; Thurs 4 pm-4am; Fri 4pm until Sun 11 pm; sodome.com.mx. Luxurious, immaculately clean, and hands down, the very hottest men. Full bar nightly; DJs and strippers weekends. CIRCUIT PARTIES The emphasis is on dance, but naughty surprises seem always to arise. Check websites like karmabeat. com.mx, vagabundos.mx, living. com, vdmas.com, maninfest.com, mejutoproducciones.com and gmusicfest.com to stay abreast of the ever-morphing scene. The White Party, held every November to support local HIV/AIDS charities, is a yearly highlight.

IN ADDITION TO ALL THE FUN AND CULTURE, lgbt travelers will appreciate Mexico City’s notably progressive attitude when it comes to sexual diversity. Informally, few cities worldwide could better represent the “live-and-let-live” attitude that is a (rarely remarked upon) feature of Mexican culture in general, further enhanced by the open-mindedness that city life supports. The generally warm, chatty and convivial nature of the Mexicans practically compels them to enjoy people as people, nothing more or less. There’s a feeling that we’re all in this together and a surprising lack of recourse to labels. As you make your way through the city you’ll see open expressions of sexual diversity, gestures of affection and hand-holding that attract virtually no attention from passers-by, even outside the Zona Rosa. In recent years this street-level attitude has played out in a series of city-wide legal reforms that are a source of pride to many citizens, gay, straight or otherwise. Most notably, in 2010 the DF (which acts like a state in Mexican

ZONA ROSA

KEEPING IT LEGAL: MEXICO CITY’S PROGRESSIVE STANCE ON LGBT RIGHTS politics) became the first jurisdiction in Latin America to legalize same-sex marriage. Other progressive reforms have included allowing transgender people to legally change their sex on birth certificates and other legal records. Discrimination based on sexual identity is illegal in any guise, and as of 2010, same-sex couples can legally adopt children. The government also maintains support centers for the LGBT community such as its Centro Comunitario de Atención a la Diversidad Sexual (Sexual Diversity Community Service Center) Génova 30-H, Zona Rosa; 5533 6008; facebook.com/centro.comunitario.lgbt/info, which focuses on guaranteeing community access to healthcare, HIV testing, human rights, safety and justice, serves as a referral to other public services and support, and even helps process same-sex marriage licenses. Naturally there is more work to do and activists push for even greater advances; but in the meantime Mexico City’s example might well serve other cities worldwide that seek to enhance equality for their lgbt citizens.

“THE WARM, CHATTY AND CONVIVIAL NATURE OF THE MEXICANS PRACTICALLY COMPELS THEM TO ENJOY PEOPLE AS PEOPLE, NOTHING MORE OR LESS.”

FIRST SAME-SEX MARRIAGES, CITY HALL (2010)

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OTHER NOTEWORTHY NEIGHBORHOODS & EXCURSIONS YOU COULD SPEND WEEKS EXPLORING ALL THAT THE DF’S MOST VISITED NEIGHBORHOODS

great neighborhoods—well known and otherwise—and to in-the-field adventures like no others on the planet.

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have to offer—and it would be a mere beginning. But if you’ve got the time, then take it further, to

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GENTEEL BOHEMIA ABOUT TEN KILOMETERS FROM THE CENTRO, Coyoacán was once a suburb of the city, clustered around its own plaza and business district. Its reputation as a the city’s Bohemia surged in from the 1920s to the 40s, largely around international artist/ celebrities Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo and their claque of exiles, intellectuals and creators such as Leon Trotsky, Lola Álvarez Bravo, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Tina Modotti, Juan O’Gorman, etc. (see “Mexico City for Fridamaniacs,” right, for the full immersion). The neighborhood’s reputation as an intellectual center was solidified when Mexico’s National University moved to its present campus, south of the area. Some say bohemianism has latterly morphed into a smoky hippie hangover, but the fact remains that Coyoacán is still one of the city’s most beautiful and walkable districts, an oasis of small town and genteel tradition. COYOACÁN STROLLS Calle Allende stretches north from Plaza Hidalgo to Londres Street and the Casa Frida Kahlo. En route you pass cafés, pocket parks and a marvelous open market (where great eating—especially seafood—is had on the cheap). Calle Francisco Sosa. Walk this cobblestone street from the Jardín Centenario to quiet, lovely Plaza Santa Catarina (where there are two or three cute places for a drink or coffee). Along the way you’ll see some

Mexico City for Fridamaniacs (and fans of that guy she was married to)

OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS

COYOACÁN

Nearly sixty years after her death, artist Frida Kahlo herself might not understand how her work, life and image continue to fascinate, even eclipsing her husband Diego Rivera’s career and reputation. Get your Frida (and Diego) on at the following city-wide pilgrimage sites.

Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul). Londres 247, Colonia Coyoacán; 5554 5999; museofridakahlo.org. mx. Tue 11 am-6 pm, Thurs-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Frida’s birthplace and the house she shared with Diego. Museo Estudio Diego Rivera. Diego Rivera 2 at Altavista, Colonia San Ángel Inn; 5550 1518; estudiodiegorivera. bellasartes.com.mx. Tue-Sun 10am-6 pm. An impressive compound comprised of two connected residences—one for Diego and one for Frida. Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño. Avenida México 5843, Colonia La Noria; 5555 1221; museodoloresolmedo.org. mx. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. The permanent collection holds several Riveras and Kahlos, the former largely being portraits of the formidable Señora Olmedo herself. Fans will not be happy to know that “Lola” considered Frida less than brilliant as an artist. Palacio Nacional. Eastern edge of the Zócalo, Colonia Centro; palacionacional.gob.mx. No direct Frida connection, but

some have spotted a resemblance to her in Diego’s depiction of Cortés’s notorious mistress, la Malinche, in one of the secondfloor murals. Secretaría de Educación Pública. Calle República de Argentina 28, Colonia Centro; sep.gob.mx. Mexico’s ministry of public education houses another extensive collection of Rivera murals, including one in which a revolutionary Frida hands out rifles to the people. Museo León Trotsky. Río Churubusco 410, Colonia Del Carmen Coyoacán; 5554 0687. Tue-Sun 10 am-5 pm. Did Frida carry out her notorious affair with the exiled Bolshevik there? If only the walls could talk. Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Colón at Balderas, Colonia Centro; 5512 0754; museomuraldiegorivera. bellasartes.gob.mx. Tue-Sun 10 am-6 pm. Museum housing a Rivera mural depicting a promenade with Mexican heroes, villains and celebrities. Can you guess who gets a prominent spot in the tableau?

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“...THE SYMBOL

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AN AFTERNOON IN COYOACÁN… COFFEE BREAK: Café El Jarocho. Cuauhtémoc 134 at Allende; 5658 5029; cafeeljarocho.com. SunThurs 6 am-1 am, Fri-Sat 6 am-2 am. The traditional neighborhood fave, with on-site roasting (whose aroma you can’t resist). LUNCH: El Morral. Allende 2; 5554 0298. Daily 7:30 am-10 pm. An unassuming, but cute spot for traditional Mexican food. Heavenly hand-thrown tortillas. COCKTAIL HOUR: La Bipolar. Malitzín 155; 5484 8230. Mon-Tue 1 pm-1 am, Thurs-Sat 1 pm-2:30 am, Sun 1 pm-10 pm. Stylish neo-cantina that fills with hipsters as the day journeys into night; seek a rooftop table on sunny afternoons.

LA BIPOLAR

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OF MEXICO’S POST-WAR PROSPERITY AND AMBITIONS...A MASTERFUL COMBINATION OF SPACE, COLOR, ART AND LANDSCAPE.” CIUDAD UNIVERSITARIA

of the city’s toniest—and costliest— residential real estate. Jardín Centenario/Plaza Hidalgo. Coyoacán’s two manicured central plazas—where streets like Allende, Hidalgo and Francisco Sosa meet—is the charming heart of the district, with fountains, gazebos, ice cream parlors, and promenading locals, plus craft vendors redolent of herbs, legal and otherwise. OTHER NOTEWORTHY SITES NEAR COYOACÁN Ciudad Universitaria When Mexico’s Autonomous National University—founded in 1910 and Latin America’s largest—left the Centro in the early 1950s, the Ciudad Universitaria (CU) campus was created as a symbol of Mexico’s post-war prosperity and intellectual ambitions. 60 years hence, its utopian architectural vision—a masterful combination of space, color, art and landscape—cannot fail to impress. The university’s tall Rectoría, featuring murals by Siqueiros, is superb, and the Central Library’s Juan O’Gorman mosaics are a true masterpiece, quite worth your attentive contemplation.

A few kilometers (i.e., a taxi ride) away, you’ll find the south campus’s Espacio Escultórico sculpture garden, whose trippy lava-scape and high modernist pieces are like something from outer space. And since you’ve made it this far south, don’t miss the Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo (Insurgentes Sur 3000; 5622 6972; muac.unam.mx. Wed-Sun 10 am-6 pm), a stunning, ambitious new art museum. Ciudad Universitaria: approximately the 2600 block of Avenida Insurgentes Sur, before reaching the Periférico Ring Road. San Ángel & Plaza San Jacinto Not far from Coyoacán lies the neighborhood known as San Ángel, another colonial-style charmer, with gamboling cobblestone streets, traditional architecture and, these days, higher-end retail and restaurants. Its parish church dates from 1564 and is well worth a looksee (especially the enclosed garden). Consider visiting on Saturday, when San Jacinto hosts the Bazar Sábado market, featuring leather, pottery, jewelry and clothing by talented local artisans, along with higher-ticket items like paintings and sculpture.

OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS CENTRO

IN YOUR CORNER: LGBTFOCUSED TRAVEL AGENCIES

PLANNING YOUR MEXICO TRIP with an LGBT-focused travel agency can provide great benefits like access to special themed tours and events, recommendations tailored to your particular interests, or help finding LGBT-friendly hotels, resorts and guesthouses throughout Mexico. Here are three of the best: Aaquetzalli Gay Travel. 5255 5929; aaquetzalli.com.mx. Babylon Tours Travel Boutique 5705 1900; babylontours.com.mx. Passion Fruit Lesbian Travel 04455 5183 7837; passionfruitlesbiantravel.com.

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TOP 5 Mexico City’s Coolest Reveal Their Favorite DF Pleasures

ALI GUA GUA, Lead Singer, Kumbia Queers Los Chuchos. A deep dive off Plaza Garibaldi with an excellent jukebox. Trannie versions of stars like Paquita la del Barrio and Ana Gabriel are in the house. República de Honduras 6, Centro. Marrakech. The downtown haunt of my favorite chacales— “jackals,” those skinny, sexy bad-boys that cluster by the bar. I love the sweat, the smell, and the Coyote Ugly-style, on-bar dancing. República de Cuba 18, Centro. El Under. Vampire seduction in what is practically a backroom for punks, goths and darks, dancing to music by depressive English

bands. Wear nothing white. Monterrey 80, Col. Roma; 5511 5475; Wed-Thurs 3-10 pm; Fri-Sun 3 pm-3 am; theunder.org. El Bósforo. Never in the LGBT guides because it cannot be defined. Hetero-friendly speakeasy? Whatever it is, the music is sensual and I never get out without kissing someone. Luis Moya 31, Centro. Musuko. Ladies get a discount on Mondays and Thursdays and the lesbians come out in droves! Watch for neighborhood celebrities. Nuevo León 160 (upstairs), Colonia Condesa; 5553 14 43.

Follow Ali Gua Gua and the Kumbia Queers at kumbiaqueers.com.ar 43

SAN RAFAEL & SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA THE EMERGING ARTISTS

KIOSKO MORISCO, SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA 44

NOTEWORTHY SAN RAFAEL/ SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA SITES The Alameda. At Santa María la Ribera and Díaz Mirón Streets, Santa María la Ribera. The neighborhood’s quaint plaza has undergone a facelift and is more inviting than ever. Its centerpiece is the Kiosko Morisco— “the Moorish Gazebo”—a filigreed relic from a late-nineteenth century world’s fair. Old-time cantinas and a gloriously dusty museum of natural history border the Alameda, sharing space with an ever-increasing array of hipster-hopefuls.

Braniff Mansion. Sadi Carnot 57, San Rafael. This impressive neo-classical pile, dating from the 1890s, was—and is—one of the city’s most imposing mansions, originally owned by the Braniff family (of later airline fame). Its extravagant horizontality and marvelous stone façade offer an idea of San Rafael’s quondam grandeur. Cine Ópera. Serapio Rendón 9, San Rafael. Oh the humanity! What fun it must have been to see classic Hollywood—or Churubusco—pictures in this movie palace, nearly as spectacular in complete ruin as it was in its shiny heyday. Museo Experimental El Eco. Sullivan 43, San Rafael; 5535 5186; eleco.unam.mx. Tues-Sun 11 am-6 pm. Designed by German émigré Matias Goeritz in 1953, El Eco is a provocative modernist architectural jewel. Stark, almost unnerving lines create an exhibition space that often outshines the art. Museo Universitario El Chopo. Dr. Enrique González Martínez 10, Santa María la Ribera; 5546 5484; chopo. unam.mx. Tues-Sun 10 am-7 pm. Another salvage job from a world’s fair, El Chopo’s goth-industrial structure was brought from Germany and reassembled in Mexico from 1903 to 1905. Today it is home to ultra edgy arts exhibitions and is an anchor for neighborhood revitalization.

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AN AFTERNOON IN SAN RAFAEL/SANTA MARÍA LA RIBERA

OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS

THESE CLOSE-IN, ADJACENT NEIGHBORHOODS DATE FROM THE END OF THE NINETEENTH to early twentieth centuries. As the city grew, genteel families moved west, through Roma/Condesa, to Polanco and points beyond (a trend that continues to this day). San Rafael and Santa María declined, and are just now beginning to show new signs of life. Following the familiar pattern, artists, bohos and queers see the great old architecture, the walkability and the cheapo rents, then start moving in. The “gentrification” is in its embryonic phase, with a long way to go. But that doesn’t mean you can’t scout for hidden gems and get in on the fun before the hordes arrive.

COFFEE BREAK: Café Gran Premio. Antonio Caso 72 at Sadi Carnot, San Rafael; 5535 0934. Mon-Sat 8 am-8 pm. A trapped-in-time café that not even the hipsters have discovered—so get there fast. LUNCH: La Casa de Toño. Sabino 166, Santa María la Rivera; 5386 1125. Mon-Sat 9 am-11 pm, Sun 9 am-10 pm. Neighborhood classic for pozole, the hearty pork and hominy stew, in a great old townhouse setting. Casual, expect crowds. WEEKEND LUNCH: La Oveja Negra. Sabino 215, Santa María la Rivera; 5541 0405; restaurantesovejanegra. com.mx. Sat-Sun 7 am-6 pm. Succulent barbecued mutton—some say the best in the city—amid a down-home, crazy-friendly atmosphere. Don’t show up too late: when the BBQ is gone, she’s gone. COCKTAIL HOUR: Salón París. Torres Bodet 152; 5547 3710. Mon-Sat 11-12 am, Sun 11 am-7 pm. From the old school, with great art-deco appointments. The food is quite delicious, too.

MUSEO UNIVERSITARIO EL CHOPO

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TURIBUS: JUST DO IT Yes, we get you’re not a waddling, fannypacked tourist. But that’s no reason to skip a tour aboard the Turibus. Go to the upper deck—palaces, monuments and other intriguing sights take on a whole new air from twenty feet up—and even cynics can’t resist. The downtown route explores sites and neighborhoods between the Centro and Chapultepec Park; the “Ruta Sur” excursion hits Frida Kahlo’s Coyoacán, colonial San Ángel, and the fabulous fifties modernism of the National University. See turibus.com.mx for details. 46

EXCURSIONS SPORTS & ADVENTURES LET’S NOT FALL INTO GENDER STEREOTYPES. The DF’s outdoor/ sporting activities appeal to different people for different reasons—and are yet another way to celebrate Mexico City’s infinite variety. XOCHIMILCO. Xochimilco is a wonderfully garish pleasure garden that must not be missed. Several shoving-off points (called embarcaderos) offer by-the-hour gondola rentals; food, drink and live music can be floated right to your boat. 4-hour-plus excursions take you to the area’s “rural” canals (request the “parte rural”), a relaxing idyll. While there, thrill seekers should ask to visit Isla de las Muñecas (doll island), an entirely harmless though creepy “island of misfit toys.” The Floating Gardens of Xochimilco. Located in the extreme south of the city; any taxi driver will be able to take you there. SOCCER. A real Mexican passion, so don’t expect to remain seated—and watch for flying beers if the home team doesn’t win. Plus the boys look awfully cute as they romp about in those shorts. Matches played from August to December, start up again in January and continue through May at three local stadiums. Tickets available through Ticketmaster. com.mx. Estadio Azteca: Calzada de Tlalpan 3465, Colonia Santa Úrsuka Coapa; 5487 3100. Estadio Azul: Indiana 225, Colonia Ciudad de los Deportes. Estadio Olímpico:

Insurgentes Sur across from the main UNAM campus. CHARRERÍA EQUESTRIAN EVENTS Mexican rodeo with fantastic pageantry and derring-do, featuring talented equestrians and equestriennes, arrayed in those haughty yet sexy black “mariachi” suits. In the third section of Chapultepec Park, the Rancho del Charro puts on intermittent shows throughout the year. Visit nacionaldecharros.com for the current schedule and other details. Rancho del Charro: Constituyentes 500, Puerta 4, Bosque de Chapultepec Third Section; 5277 8706; asociacionnacionaldecharros.com. LUCHA LIBRE. Mexico’s masked and melodramatic wrestling matches are a low, guilty pleasure if ever there were one, but thoroughly fun, a sort of butch camp exercise if you will. And the outfits! The Arena México, near the Roma, gets regulars and an increasing crop of local slummers; downtown’s Coliseo auditorium attracts a scrappier, but perfectly harmless crowd. Arena México: Dr. La Vista at Dr. Lucio, Colonia Doctores; 5588 0508; arenamexico. com.mx. Matches 8:30 pm Fridays. Arena Coliseo: República de Perú 77 near República de Chile, Colonia Centro; 5526 1687; arenacoliseo.com. Matches Tues 8:30 pm and Sun 5 pm. BULLFIGHTING. Not for your vegan friends (the blood and death are real) yet there’s nothing to compare with its drama, danger, music and spectacle. You’ll be glad you went even if you never go again. Did we mention the handsome, steely matadors? Alternating Saturdays and Sundays, at 4:30 pm, from November to February at the Plaza de Toros México. Augusto Rodín 241, Colonia Ciudad de los Deportes, just west of Insurgentes Sur; 5563 3961; lamexico.com.

GYM FOR GYM BUNNIES AND MUSCLE MARYS

OTHER NEIGHBORHOODS

IN THE FIELD

Late nights, too many enchiladas, too much tequila. And yet you’ve got to look good, shirt-free, on the dance floor. So if your hotel has no workout room, consider a day pass at the following gyms/yoga studios, among the city’s nicest and most up-to date. Bikram Yoga México Seneca 35, Polanco; 5520 0246; call or see website for class schedule. Detox, so you’re ready to retox: the city’s bestregarded yoga studios. Hard Candy Bosque de Duraznos 47, Bosques de las Lomas; 5245 7550; hardcandyfitness.com; Mon Fri 6 am-11 pm; Sat 8 am-4pm; Sun 9 am-2 pm. Yep, Madonna’s place…probably the toniest sweatshop in town. Qi Ámsterdam 317, Colonia Condesa; 5564 5888; centroqi. mex.The gym to the telenovela stars. And the trainers— male and female—are pretty dishy, too. Sports World Condesa Sonora 180, Colonia Condesa; 5378 4897; condesasportsworld.com.mx; Mon-Thurs 6 am-11 pm; Sat, Sun and holidays 7 am to 5 pm. The premiere workout in Hipster Heights, modern, friendly and immaculately maintained. (Note only the Condesa location offers day passes.)

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CEO Antonio García Chairman Javier Arredondo Editorial Director Guillermo Osorno Public Relations Director Luz Arredondo Director of Finance Juan Martín Osorio Art Director Rigoberto de la Rocha Copy Director Claudia Priani Saisó www.editorialmapas.com

Original Texts, Adaptations and Edition Michael Parker-Stainback Photo Editor María Dolores Rivera Design Juan Carlos Guzmán / Rigo de la Rocha Retouching Armando Ortega Production Oswaldo Rodríguez Photos By SecturDF, Adrián Duchateau, Aníbal Barco, Arturo Limón, Atonatiuh Bracho, Camilo Christen, Diego Berruecos, Felipe Luna, Getty Images, Héctor Jiménez, Proceso Foto and Rigo de la Rocha. Special thanks to Annuska Angulo, Hugo Flores, Gris Maldonado and Miriam Jiménez. Edición a cargo de EDITORIAL MAPAS. Travesías Editores, S. A. de C. V., Amatlán 33, col. Condesa, México D.F., C.P. 06140. Esta guía se terminó de imprimir en la ciudad de México en el mes de noviembre de 2012, en los talleres de COMISA, S.A. de C.V., General Victoriano Zepeda 22, col. Observatorio, México D.F., C.P. 11860, 5516 8586. La edición constó de 2,500 ejemplares.