LeDroit Park Conserved

[eDroit Park Conserved Government of the District of Columbia

Ivlarion S. Barry,

Jr.

Mayor

July, 1979

Historic Development

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Original boundary of leDroit Park McGill buildings 1873-1887

Buildings constructed during 1880's & '90's

LeDroit Park ~ Conserved

Washingtonians Dtvi~•on

OlSTRJCT OF COL . : ~IA PUBUC LIBRARY

prepared for the D. C. Department of Housing and Community Development

by Carr, Lynch Associates

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GOVERNMENT OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA DEPAfn.-~ENT

OF HOUSING A-"-0 COMMUN ITY DEVElOPMENT WASHINGTON 0 C

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SEP 1 1979 To the Citizens of the LeDroit Park Historic District: This book is for all the residents of the LeDroit Park Historic District who wish to improve their homes or work places. It is not a list of regulations; i t is a guide for the historic restoration of buildings in your community. We had these guidelines prepared because your area is unique and has historic significance worth preserving. The Department supports this report and intends to use it as a guide in all discussions with your community. The guidelines should assist staff and homeowners by expediting reviews and avoiding mistakes that could cause delay. For these, or any guidelines, to work successfully , the staff and citizens must have a mutual respect and understanding for each other's objectives. The prime consideration of these guidelines is the maintenance of the LeDroit Park Historic District. We include in maintenance the stabilization of the community's existing population , which means we hope to avoid any displacement. For this reason, what a person can afford when he or she wishes to fix up a property must be taken into account. We intend to remain sensitive to the needs and economic restraints of people in LeDroi t Park while we also attempt to fulfill our public responsibility to the area's historic character by keeping unwelcome or unwanted changes to a minimum. You will note that these guidelines are grouped in three categories. The first , the preferred category, is labelled, "this is the preferable way to do it," and contains changes which are best practice. In the second category, "sometimes a good way" are changes which, under certain circumstances , The last category , "generally may be good practice. unacceptable" lists changes which are discouraged. We urge people to choose the "preferable way," if they can afford it , for it will give the best results to the individual property as well as help the community. The middle category, with the sometimes acceptable items, recognizes that not everyone chooses or can afford the recommendations of the preferable category. We believe that this middle category gives maximum opportunity for the DHCD to consider the individual

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conditions of each owner and i. 1:: moderat e ly priced improvements of c hanges are included in a peJi application will undergo review.' a permit applic ation is for chan "preferable way " or in the "gene We in the DHCD know that every c its own mer its . For example. so i terns ar e always wron g whil e. de others may occasionally be ace ep matter of ge neral practice, any · all his or her c hanges from t~e ' category can ge nerally expect prl review by our Department. People do not have to do any til in !' if they don't want to. so long a~ regulations suc h as th e Building Zoning Regulations. It is also r improv e a home such as some land s havin g to get permission f rom the no requirement that own ers must r But if you want to do something t building whi c h requir es a buildin should be consu lt ed. Under D.C. law , this Departm ent r appli c ation for demolitions. exte construction within your historic • uses one of the government prog r ru of this book , whi c h make mon ey av : distric ts or community de veloprnenl furth e r reviews , as listed. All r~ guidelines. All of the staff of the Departmenr assistance to the community as its gu ide book. Th e e ntir e conte nts ar review and eva luation and possible and th e community take int o account or th e av ailabili ty of r esour ces. explanation of our int ent will re~ to our objectives and methods.

Contents 7

A Brief History The Architecture of LeDroit Park

13

How to Conserve a House Basic Principles Wooden Walls Masonry Wails and Chimneys Roofs Windows and Doors Porches, Steps and Rails Fences, Yards and Landscaping Signs and Other Modern Fixtures Minor Additions New Buildings and Major Additions

45 46 55 61 66 71 79 86 90 94 96

Resources The Process of Design Review How to Check the Condition of a House Notes on Buying a House or Getting a Building Permit Glossary

99 100 103 107 108

\\'asbingtonia a Division

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA PUBLIC LIBRARY

Introduction The LeDroit Park Historic District lies just south of the grounds of Howard University, and above the junction of Florida and Rhode lsland Avenues, between Bohrer Street and 2nd Street, N.W. It is an outstanding example of the American Romantic suburb. Having passed through many changes, it still retains that basic character. Lying just outside of the "Boundary Street" (now Florida Avenue) of the original plan for Washington , it is an early example of the growth of the city as directed by private speculation. It is also an example, much less frequently found, of the successful integration of architectural and subdivision design. The Secretary of the Interior has formally recognized the heritage and special qualities of the LeDroit Park Historic District by listing it in the National Register of Historic Places. Historic preservation is a growing movement which has shifted in recent years from meticulously restoring individually significant landmarks to conserving entire neighborhoods for their residents. Change is recognized as a necessary element of neighborhood conservation; if carefully managed, it can permit full use and enjoyment by those who are living today, while retaining and enhancing an area's significant architectural and historical qualities. This handbook is written in that spirit, expressly for the citizens for the LeDroit Park Historic District. Its purpose is to help them improve their houses and their streets.

A Brief History

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A Brief History The LeOroit Park Historic District was origi nally located in Washington County just north of the Federal City. This land was divided into large tracts and was either uncultivated or farmed. During the Civil War. the Campbell Military Hospital was located in this general area. and in 1865 it became the Freedmen's Hospital. In 1869, Freedmen's Hospital was moved to the grounds of Howard University where buildings were expressly constructed to house its needs . Howard University, located on the northern periphery of LeDroit Park, was chartered by Congressional law on March 2, 186 7. General 0.0. Howard (1830-1909), founder of Howard, was the University's first presi dent, serving from 1869-73. General Howard was also Commissioner of the Bureau of ·

(the Freedmen's Bureau). This Bureau not only assisted in providing food and work for refugees and freedmen, but also provided education for former slaves. General Howard and the Freedmen. s Bureau were instrumental in establishing Howard University -vvhich was to be open to all races. but has tradionally been a black university . Another trustee of the university, Am7.i L. Barber, married the daughter of a successful real estate broker named LeDroit Langdon. resigned his trusteeship in the college and purchased some 40 acres of University lands on a Sl1 5,000 promissory note. without down payment. In 1874, the Executive Com mittee of Howard was in financial difficulties

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and accepted an offer from A.L. Barber & Company for $95.000 in full payment of Langdon's note. Barber hired James McGill to design his new development, and named it for his father -in-law. The new subdivision appears on the map in 1873, romantic in intent and architecture, if not in its standard street grid. Packaged for the affluent, it emphasized seclusion, fine houses. a ''rural'' atmosphere, genteel neighbors and easy access to the city. It was built for the "merchant, professional man, or government clerk.·' Despite its origins and the proximity of Hmvard University. leDroit Park was to be exclusivelv white. It was enclosed by a wood and iron fence along its public front. and a high board wall at the rear (where Howard University and a black settlement called "Hmvard Town" lay). There were gates and watchmen to keep out the unwanted. One gate was at 3rd Street and Rhode Island Avenue. By 1877, 41 new houses had been erected. at a cost of $200,000. Some were for clients and some were built on speculation, but all were designed by McGill. They were handsome examples of romantic eclecticism Italian Villa. Gothic Revival, Queen Anne, Second Empire and Italianate -designed for show and individuality. These buildings were built at a time when architectural technology was rapidly changing in the U.S. Building

nation, and machines could stamp, grind, turn or cast complicated parts. McGill's catalogue lists such specialty services as bell hangers, slate roofers. fresco painters and stair builders, as well as suppliers of dumbwaiters, bronze hard~vare, mantelpieces and gas fixtures.

The houses were set back within formal gardens. An ornamental park circle, decorated with trees, flowers and a fountain, was established at 3rd and T Streets as a focus for the development. $50,000 was expended on street improvements, including paving, water, sewers, gas, brick walks, and ornamental lighting, and $4,000 on planting alone. There was a private trash collection service, as well as the private watchmen. The new development became the residence of generals, professors, congressmen, businessmen, and bureaucrats, as well as McGill, Barber, Langdon, and McClellan (one of the original pre-war land owners). By 1887, there were 64 houses here, but the pace of development was slowed as LeDroit Park weathered the economic catastrophes of the '70s.

Meanwhile, agitation arose to breaK tne color ban. Legal action was at first unsuccessful. A mob broke down the fence in 1888, but the fence was replaced with barbed wire . Finally. the District government took over control of the streets and they were opened to public access. In 1893 the first black resident moved in. A bullet went through his window while he was sitting at dinner, but he refu ed to leave. Gradually, other black professionals and officials made their entrance into the exclusive Park, which for a time was integrated. Howard professors moved in, and th~ area received the nickname of "Collegetown." In these same late years of the '80s, the areas adjacent to LeDroit Park were subdivided and developed, and it became an integral part of the fabric of the city. The building of single houses for wealthy clients ceased, within the original subdivision, and the remaining lots were sold to speculators, who began to erect rather elaborate Queen Anne row houses. Along Florida A venue, residential buildings were converted to commercial use, and the new apartment hou es incorporated shops into their ground floors. By the beginning of World War I, almost all of the white residents had moved away, and the last row houses had been built. LeDroit Park had become the most exclusive area of black residence in the city. Many prominent people lived there: scholars, lawyers, musicians, journalists, and professional of many kinds; Mary Church Terrell, women's activist and first black woman on the Board of Education; her husband, the first black municipal judge; the first black con gressman after Reconstruction; Paul Lawrence Dunbar, the poet; Ralph Bunche, leader in the UN, and first black Nobel Prize winner; Senator Brooke of Massachusetts; and the first black mayor of the city, Walter Washing ton. Older residents remember lawn and block parties, Sunday band concerts, and the fine

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An elegant

Wa~hington

Row on 5th Street

Just before World War II, a second shift began . Some of the population moved to the upper northwest section of the city and the northern suburbs. During the war, two large halls were built to house government workers, and these were later converted into Howard dormitories, one of which is located in the historic district. The trend accelerated after the war, as low income blacks moved in and the well-to-do fled. Some of the old McGill houses were divided into apartments. One of the finest of these, the original McGill house, was demolished in the '60s to make way for a Safeway store and its parking lot. Absentee landlords and a lack of maintenance allowed some of the structures to slide toward

LeDroit Park resident

decay. Street maintenance and trash collection deteriorated, and the old park circle was bisected by street paving. The benign relation with Howard University turned to conflict, as the institution sought to expand south into its residential neighbor. Large new University buildings arose on the edge of the area. The University now owns a large number of vacant houses , and has generated a traffic and parking burden. Today, the population of the area is mixed with both middle-income and low-income blacks and Howard University students.

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The brick walks are spotted with asphalt patches, streets are broken and many alleys are unpaved. Most of the street trees are gone, although small new ones have been planted on 2nd and on Florida. On the houses, lintel arches have fallen here and there, corners are broken, slates are loose and roof crestings gone. Some 60 houses are boarded up, half of which belong to the Uni versity. But the neglect is recent and there are signs of more recent recovery. Many of the McGill and row houses have been maintained in good condition throughout their existence and many more are being rehabilitated. The buildings \vere solidly built. and they are still sound. The undulating walls, complex rooflines. elaborate cornices and window frames, wrought iron steps and carved doors, and the rich array of materials - molded brick, stone, slate, pressed stone, terra cotta, wrought iron, stained glass - all catch the eye. The houses and rowhouses are boldly made. Much of this detail can be recovered. ~nd a restoration of the varied 19th century color schemes and formal gardens would still further enrich the landscape. Utilities have already been placed underground, and some of the old street lights remain. The LeDroit Park streets, relatively treeless, narrow, and urban, depend on h. •• : J.-1:-

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A notable concentration of McGill houses an remains on the 400 block of U Street area to which the somewhat more modest single and two-family houses \vere apparently relegated in his plans. This complete row of houses in the Italian Villa style may be unique in the United States . A good number of McGill houses still exist on the 500 block of T Street, and at the focal circle at 3rd and T Streets . Third and T were the two show streets of the original development, and this focus should be recreated. In sum, LeDroit Park is a remarkably preserved specimen of an early romantic suburb, in which street and house designs were coordinated by one good hand . More than that, LeDroit Park has played a central role in the history of the black leadership of this city.

The Architecture of LeDroit Park

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The Architecture of LeDroit Park The late nineteenth century architect or builder could choose from a wide variety of styles and motifs in the design of a house or shop. Roof types, styles and house plans varied widely, and yet there was a consistency in material and details. Pattern books and builder's catalogues were a common source of metal work, wood trim, ornamental brick, stone and slate. Many of these decorative details are still intact, and are worth conserving. By understanding the style and components of a building, we can identify those elements that are critical to its appearance. Between 1873 and 1887, James McGill designed some sixty houses in LeDroit Park. Most of these detached single or two family houses were built of brick, with wood and pressed stone details. Many are illustrated by engravings in the promotional literature for the neighborhood published as LeDroit Park Illustrated (1877) and The Architectural Advertiser (1879). Like many architects of his day, McGill worked in many styles, including Italianate, Italian Villa, Second Empire, Victorian Gothic, and Queen Anne. Some houses combine several styles. Although the roof shapes, building outlines and decoration vary a great deal from house to house, these McGill houses share a common exuberance of detail. This can be seen at the window mouldings, string courses, brackets, cornices, cupolas and towers, ornate porches, decorative metal work and patterned slates on the roof. These decorative elements are all part of the "high styled" home.

_.::s:::~c:EID;[iir--:::,........,.__________ patterned vari-colored slate roof

low hipped roo

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relative absence of --~:::::"....__ _ _....... ornate details at cornice and windows light-colored painted brick or stucco walls

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plain wooden porch posts with simple brackets (if any)

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tall, narrow 2/2 arch-headed de hung windows a surprisingly r w indow such a is an example < McGill's own d• invention wooden porch • heavy cornice t

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Italian Villa

This style was inspired by the Italian farm house, which often included a prominent, flat topped, corner tower, a simple box or L-shaped plan, a low gable roof, and a plain light-colored wall surface. It was popularized in books such as those by Andrew Jackson Downing as appropriate for the "country gentleman'', symbolizing a simple and pastoral life. The Italian Villa style houses of LeDroit Park have L-shaped or symmetrical plans with long porches, arched windows, and gable roofs with deep overhanging eaves . Originally , some of these residences had roof cresting and truss work at the gable ends .. But there is a noticeable absence of the elaborate detailing of cornices and door and window heads that is seen on other houses by McGilL

Wall surfaces are plainer and the original color scheme simple - usually cream or buff \Vith darker trim, although varied colors may have hcen used later. Much of the 400 block of U Street is in the Italian Villa style. Here, rather than on the grander 3rd and T Streets. McGill placed his more modest houses, and they \Vere designed in a style appropriate to more modest budgets. The survival of this continuous row of houses in the Italian Villa style produces a streetscape which is possibly unique in the U.S.

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c a) Shown here. the U Street blo­ · ,. ~c::::'

Elsewhere this was an important revival style, using stucco walls, tiled roofs , stepped and arched parapets and gables, round arched brick-trimmed doors and windows, projecting rafters and massive, heavily decorated entrance doors. Here in LeDroit Park the Spanish Revival is used primarily as a variant form by the builders of the Georgian rows. Often it is no more than a stepped, curvilinear gable tacked on to the Georgian brick facade . Such a row occurs on Elm Street at the corner of 4th.

a a) Like most of the later row stvles tn LeDroit Park. Spanish Revival houses are usually four{d in long repetitive rows. This block on Elm Street between .'3rd and hh Streets is Jn impress1ve grouping. b) A closer look at one of the building-; in this grouping: basically a box, with a few simple decorative features.

c,dJ This example can be found on 2nd Street, intermixed with Georgian Revival row houses. Except for the design of the top third of the facade. they are essentially the same building. (Compare >nth photo on p. ·HJ).

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20th Century Buildings

a) Ga~e Eckington School seen from 3 rd Stree t b) H oward University Hospital seen from U Street

Although the last substantial building activity came to an end by 1920, change continued. Buses and cars, the growth of Howard University to the north, the construction of new institutional buildings, and the demolition of older structures are features of this change. The park circle and its landscaping were destroyed by paving a trafficway through its center. New buildings have broken sharply with the character of the neighborhood . The large-scale buildings which have changed the appearance of the neighborhood include two Howard University dormitories (originally war housing), the Gage-Eckington School, and the Safeway Store at 3rd Street and Rhode Island Avenue (which replaced a fine McClellan house). To the north , the Howard University Medical School makes a hard institutional edge of parking lots and large buildings. To the south the former com mercial activities along Florida A venue are closed. Despite all this, the core of LeDroit Park remains in sound condition, still a most impressive example of the 19th Century Romantic suburb.

How to Conserve a House

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Basic Principles Arrest Deterioration

The first rule of conservation is to arrest deterioration, while avoiding any changes that are irreversible, that is, which seriously damage the original materials and structure of a building, or which make it difficult for any future owner to restore the building's esthetic and historic character if he wishes to. This is the principal basis for saying that certain changes should never be permitted.

Conserve

The second rule is to restore the historic appearance of a building, while also improving the way in which it functions today. Buildings must change, if they are to remain useful. We cannot exclude changes which respond to modern functions or technology, but we should try to make them in harmony with original architectural character. Past changes in a building may also have historic meaning and can be worthy of conservation. It is essential to see that change connects what was and what now exists - that the area remains eloquent of its past.

Improve Function and Appearance

Original features should be retained and repaired where possible, and replaced only when necessary. However, cost may require that decorative elements be replaced with simplified versions of the originals. Neighborhood character and scale should be conserved as well. Any new additions must respect the form of the surrounding buildings, as well as the nature of the structure itself. These principles must be applied with some flexibility, not only because high costs may at times make historic accuracy difficult to accomplish, but also because facades which are not visible to the public can often be treated with some individuality and freedom, just as house interiors are. Moreover, new technologies and new ways of living will in time make some of these recommendations obsolete. Accumulated experience will surely modify some of them. Clearly, then, these guidelines must be reviewed periodically and applied with judgment.

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Except for some of the early houses designed by the architect James McGill. most houses in LeDroit park are row houses which form a solid built edge along the street. The individual houses were designed to have similar features - size, materials, window placement, turrets, towers, porches, etc. - so that each building works with its neighbor to create a larger wall of buildings of uniform height. with a regular rhythm of projections and entries along the street. Changes made in an individual house can disrupt the continuity created by these design similarities from house to house. So think carefully about any changes to your house, beginning first ·with a close look at other houses on the block which still retain their original character.

Elements of a LeDroit Park Street I, similarity of materials and color from house to house unify appearance of the street

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uniform " setback" of buildings (distance back from street)

uniform height of raised first floor entry

, , variety of details in iron handrails and steps, and wooden porches and rails add interest to the street

similar size and placement of door and window openings establish rhythm along the street. fences continue the edge of the sidewalk between houses

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Parts of a House ; bay roof co rnice I'~ififii~ffi~~iiiffill~=-=-= corbeled brick

dormer

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" brackets"

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frieze (flat area below cornice)

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lintel porch

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The Facade p~;;;;;;n;;;;;;;;;;;;;;$.§i1JJ;;;,;!__ iron

entry stair and rails

The face of this house is divided into 3 major divisions by its windows. These major divisions are called "bays".

Know Your House

Roof Types

Gable

Pitched (with dormers)

The "facade" is the front plane, or " face" of the house, and is its most public and important feature. Projecting architectural features , such as porches, dormers. towers , or bay or oriel windows. are a part of the building 's facade .

Hip

Cross Gable

Mansard

Flat , with parapet

LeDroit Park boasts a great variety of handsome buildings of different architectural styles. T o know your house you should first determine its style. But even houses of the same style can be designed \Vit h different features, so look closely to identify the specific design and detail features which give you r bui lding its unique appearance. These are the elements you will wa nt to respect and retain as you undertake renovation or maintenance repairs. In this guidebook. buildings are described using architectural terms. The drawing on th is page will help you with some of the more general terms (cornice or transom, etc.), but if you find an unfamiliar word. turn to the glossary at the end of the boo k for definitions of architectural terms .

Identify Key Design Features Of Your House

proportion of w indows and bays gives rhythm to house

2/3

113

deep cornice gives house a "top"

raised brick stringcourses and window sills emphasize horizontal quality of house

1/1 windows with dark contrasting color on trim emp~asizes window ~ openmgs ~ arch and transom over door, and detailed iron stair emphasizes importance of entry to house

raised entry gives house a "base "

Identify Key Design Features Of Your House

DODD 1/3

houses act together along street to form solid wall with rhythm of narrow recessed entries

rhythm of mass and openings; 113 entry bay, 213 projecting bay

213

variety of different textures and colors form bands along vertical face of house

heavy wooden cornice design similarity and relationship to adjacent house is essential

small-paned glass adds to the "textured " look of this style house scalloped shingles

entry porch forms outdoor room raised entry gives the house a base

panels

Renovation Simplifying Original Details Which Respects the Character of the House replacing shingles with clapboard in gable modern fewer-paned windows are a less desirable, but acceptable, replacement note: the basic massing and proportion of the house and its features - cornice, porch, bay are retained. This is the key to a successful simplification.

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in painting of trim can approximate effect of different textures on original

simplified door, posts and rail in _______,L.___ __..JL------1~-.JL--.....U..~--..J_--L..---L.--:same size and material as orig ina I EXISTING RENOVATED

Renovations Illustrating Guidelines The guidelines on the following pages are designed to assist homeowners in making decisions about renovations or maintenance repairs to buildings in LeOroit Park. While it is almost always best to retain the original materials and features on your house, this is not always possible. Original details may already have been removed or may be deteriorated beyond repair. Some alterations to an older house can be accomplished without diminishing its attractiveness or hiding the character set by its architectural style, as illustrated above. Other changes or additions, even minor ones. such as "colonial" eagles or doors on a Victorian building, can spoil what is special about the individual house. Determining which changes will fit with the design of your house and vvhich will detract from it is not always easy. The guidelines provide alternatives and assistance for these

decisions. Two general principles for renovation of older buildings can guide you, however. As the drawings on the next page illustrat~,

it is almost always a mistake to remove, cover up or alter major features of your bouse (such as dormers, towers, or horizontal bands of paneling on a projecting bay). Compare the houses illustrating alteration at the right with the original houses below. It is also almost always a mistake to try to change the style of the building,· for instance, to ''modernize'' or '' colonialize ·' a house.

"Modernization" Completely Hiding The Character of the House installation of vinyl or aluminum siding which is wider than original clapboards should never be done shutters as a decorative feature are always

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feature of the unless house they were an original inappropriate

r+ttH:Htit--- never install a siding material with a vertical

pattern ; here the siding has covered up the horizontal bands of different texture which made the bay a major decorative feature

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porch of the removed house ; avoid this at all cost

lrl61f3-H+--.+-H+--++++i..._.l+l++--- " colonial " eagles, lights and doors are

inappropriate for the 19th century houses in LeDriot Park

HOUSE IN ORIGINAL CONDITION

MODERNIZED AND "COLONIALIZED''

Alterations Which Can Hide A House's Character

.--------removing finials or crest ing

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patterned slate roofing and replacing with metal or asphalt

removing decorative brickwork from chimneys removing tops from ~~§§~=~;;a;~, towers or bays using stucco or " form--f-+---+-stone" over existing brick or clapboard: decorative detail will be lost, and window openings will look " swallowed up" by the new thicker wall

fijj;::=Jg~~~~1~~:1:1+-- remov ing a dormer i

ALTERED HOUSES

How to Use These Guidelines

Conserving Energy

Following a general comment on saving energy, the guidelines are stated briefly for each type of structural element. After each set of guidelines there are more detailed notes on the reasons for them and on how to accomplish the work suggested. A final section , entitled "The Process of Design Review'' , tells the owner how to go about getting changes approved. It also suggests where to go for help, and tells the owner something about various subsidies that can provide financial assistance for fixing a house . In the appendix (at the end) there are some useful notes on buying and judging an old house . The guidelines themselves are stated in three levels. First are those actions which are preferred, headed : ''this is the preferable way to do it." However, the "preferable way" may sometimes be too expensive, or would not work in some particular case. So there is a middle category, labelled "sometimes a good way'': actions which may be reasonable in some cases and not in others, or which require special attention and design. Then there are those actions which are almost always damaging to any historic building, although even here, for some very special reason , one of these potentially damaging actions may be the only sensible route to take. They are labelled "this is a generally unacceptable way.'' So these three levels can be summarized in three words: ''yes", "maybe" and " no," but no set of general guidelines can be expected to cover every contingency.

First, a note on saving heating (or cooling) costs - no small item in the family budget. The greatest loss of house heat is through the openings around doors and windows. Simply putting weatherstripping around the edges of doors and windows is therefore a very effective heat saver. Aluminum storm windows are a useful addition, if well fitted and caulked, since they tend to seal those openings, and to create an insulating dead air space between themselves and the old window (as well as protecting it from the weather). Storm doors, on the other hand, save little heat (although they may be desirable for other reasons), since they cannot be made airtight. Weatherstripping the edges of the old door is the best way to stop heat loss. The next most critical element in energy loss and gain is the roof, where much \vinter heat escapes (since heat rises), and summer heat penetrates (since the sun beats down on it). Insu lating · · batts ·' (narrow rolls of thick, matted fiberglass ) may easily be laid agai nst the inside of the roof. or between the joists of an unfinished attic floor, to stop this energy loss. The batts have a vapor barrier on one side, to prevent the condensation of water vapor \Vithin the wall, roof. or floor. This barrier should always be turned toward whatever will be the warm side of the surface. These fiberglass batts are a simple and effective insulation. [See Condensation, page 60] Finally, one considers insulating the walls . Insulating batts should be applied to the walls of any ne\\' addition or building, as it is constructed. In an old house, however. putting on those batts requires taking off either the inside or the outside sheathing of the wall generally impracticable except during a major renovation.

utner types ot msulatton can De blown mto the cavities of an old wall without stripping the sheathing, but this insulation has problems of its own. Blown insulation does not allow for installing a vapor barrier. If it is a loose. solid material , such as cellulose, it may settle. or spread poorly. Urethane, another loose material of this kind, disintegrates in time. Urea-formaldehyde avoids some of those difficulties, since it is sprayed in as a foam which solidifies. It also has the highest insulating value. Unfortunately , the spray

Sources of Heat Loss

may clog around proJecttons wttnm the wall, and it shrinks and gives off water while setting. Recent tests indicate that it also may continue to give off irritating fumes inside the house, even for years after installation. Ureaformaldehyde is not recommended . In short, it is good sense and saves money to weatherstrip doors and windows, to install storm windows, and to insulate the roof or attic with fiberglass batts. One should get the advise of an expert (one who has no interest in selling insulation) before doing more .

How to Insulate insulate attic floor

single thickness window glass

22 %

uninsulated walls

./ /

vent

30% air infiltration

20 %

Because heated ai r rises. much of the heat loss from a house is through the roof. Every old house will benefit from attic insulation. Single thickness window glass plus gaps around old window frames account for large heat loss. Heat is conducted through wall . Brick. wood and plaster are good conductors of heat and so they are poor insulators. Air leaking through small cracks and holes in a building's exterior is a major source of heat loss. U you add together all the small openings on the typical old house (including cracks around doors and windo\vs), you would have a hole 3 to 4 feet square. That would be like having a \..,·indo\v open.

To prevent heat loss in an older house start at the top. A wall vent under the eave of the roof will allow air to circulate so that there will be no condensation of moisture in the attic. Insulation on the attic floor will keep your heat dollars from literally going .. out the roof." Be su re, however, that you in· stall a vapor barrier under the insulation before it is laid (or. in foil covered roll insulation, be sure to place the foil side down .) Installing insulation in side walls where none originally ex· isted can be an expensive project . For an energy savings return on money spent it is often more efficient to install storm windows . They ~hould be tight -fitting and should match the design of the existing windows. Reducing air infiltration into an old house is by far the most etfective method of controlling heat loss. Make su re that exterior paint is in good condition. that mortar joints are tight, and that caulking or weather stripp ing around windows and doors is adeOdy ·own tnm

GN 3(, ( 19-41 ) GN 33 ( 1946) GB (,8 (18·8) GB 71 ( 18 13 ) CB 57 (18- 104 ) CB 12 ( I 7 I 0 ) GB 6 7 (31 10) YL 22 (1 26) CB if9 ( 17 16 )

Light vellow YL 2) ( I 26 ) body ow 1!\ ( 15 19) \Vh ite trim Blue sash Aj 52 l!O 59) Umber shutters (opt. ) ST )7 (!JAR) Rose bod\· Pale ro~e - trim Peach body Pale peach trim Light olive body Straw trim Sorrel bodv Tan trim · (Queen Anne) Brown body ( 1st fl. ) Deep rose body (2nd fl. ) Rose gable Beige trim Pumpkin body Brown trim Deep rose body Golden tan trim

OP 52 OP 51 OP · I OP 6 GB 68 YL 10 CB 39 GB -70

(01 3) (·I l )

(1 H I ( 1 5 lOA ) ( I 8 8) ( 1-291 ( 18-116) ( 18 13)

ET 25 (18-8!\) ST 37 ST 39 CB 65 OP 3 1

(4 -48) (lt -1 6 )

( 18113) (348 ) ET 2 (31 8) ST 37 {IJ ·18 ) CB M ( I 8 1()!I )

:.Jte: All Benjamin Moore color numbe rs in parentheses refer tmbering system, due to expire in 3 year\.

to

old

Condensation Paint seals the wall from outside moisture, but a wall must also be protected from the water vapor generated within the warm interior of the house . When this invisible vapor strikes a cold wall, it condenses and encourages rot. So, a vapor barrier - aluminum foil, aluminum base paint, or a polyethylene plastic sheet - is installed on the warm side of the wall . Installed by itself, impermeable synthetic siding acts like a vapor barrier on the wrong side of the wall (the cold side), and simply catches the condensing moisture between itself and the wooden framework of the house . If a vapor barrier is not installed at the same time on the inside of the wall, then this impermeable synthetic siding must be vented to the outside. Since insulation increases the difference in temperature between the two sides of a wall, condensation is more likely after it is installed. So insulating should always be accompanied by a vapor barrier. The earth beneath a house is also a source of moisture, and so vapor barriers are placed on any dirt surface in the crawl space or cellar beneath a house. [See Water and Masonry , page 63] Another way of combating damp is to be sure that enclosed but unheated spaces - like cellars and attics have small screened openings to the outside , through which the water vapor can escape. Persistent blistering of paint can sometimes be stopped by installing small ventilation plugs, to vent the air space within the wall .

Masonry Walls and Chitnneys If your house has brick walls, foundations, or chimneys or a stucco finish, then:

This is the preferable way to do it: • Arrest any settlement of the wall, and repair arches and lintels above the openings. • Identify the source of any leaks, to stop further damage. • Prevent water from lying against the foundation wall. • Repair the minor cracks in brickwork and stucco. • Patch any gaps with new bricks of matching size, color and porosity, laid in the same way (that is, in a matching brick pattern, or ''bond,'' and with a matching mortar joint). • If necessary, repoint the old brick joints (that is, replace loose and lost mortar) with a lime-cement mortar of proper color and composition. • Paint where the brick or stucco was previously painted, or if it requires that protection, using a porous masonry paint. • Retain original chimney details. • Increase the height of the chimney if needed, to improve draft or to meet code requirements .

This is sometimes a good way: • If needed, clean the brick, but only with a non-abrasive cleaner. • Remove a small internal chimney which is no longer needed. • Use bricks of a different size, or bond, or a different color and then paint the entire wall.

This is a generally unacceptable way: • Sandblasting the brick, or using any other abrasive treatment. • Covering brick with wood, synthetic siding, stucco, or permastone. • Patching brick with asphalt, concrete, or other materials. • Use of cement mortar, or mortar of a color which does not match the original mortar. • Coating brick with silicone, or the use of caulking or sealants to fill open joints. • Coating chimneys or walls with roofing cement, asphalt or tar. • Using paint which will not adhere to brick, or which seals in its moisture. • Painting stone trim.

Replacing Brick

~~~~~~~

l

'W.~i]ZdZ:r{}::rz::l~

Yes

GOODMATCH OF OLDANDNEW mortar joi nts and bricks #-~;z:z:i7fl:W;;7,Z~ are matc hed in original and new sections

No

Water and Masonry Moisture is the principal enemy of masonry , and indeed of most structural materials. If foundation walls are wet, water will rise within the wall and destroy the brick above. Wetness is indicated by spalling (or the cracking off of pieces of the surface), cracking, the rusting of fasteners or an appearance of white salts coming to the surface. The outside ground should be sloped away from the building . Better, a drainage ditch can be dug along the wall, a collector pipe laid at the bottom, and the ditch refilled with crushed rock. When a wooden frame is set on a masonry foundation, it should be at least 8 inches above the ground, to prevent its rotting from soil moisture. A crawl space should be at least 18 inches high and a vapor barrier be laid on the exposed ground below. The ground may have to be dug away to accomplish this. Any wood that is close to the ground should be pressure treated with preservatives, and should not be a structural ptece. The diagonal shear cracks often seen under windows in a brick wall are the normal resuh of expansion and contraction. They need only be repainted as described below. But long vertical cracks mean that a foundation is giving way. This is serious, and the movement must be stopped . The most frequent cause of foundation failure is due to water lying against the walJ, but major structural flaws of this kind must be diagnosed and dealt with by experienced builders.

Types of Brick Mortar Joints

- - - 'deep raked' joint poor water resistance

1 -r-~---T~r'"T'-'&..-.;t

• · · · ·:..: :. • •• - - overlap joint 1-7__.,-r-,·~·~ · J"'·.-·_,.·.... ·~ · poor water resistance

Maintaining a Masonry Wall Brick walls must occasionally be repainted, that is. the loose mortar in the joints must be picked out and replaced. Corbelled brick cornices are an important feature of many LeDroit Park structures. (Corbels are the projections made by stepping each course of brick out beyond the one below.) The external brick chimneys add much to the character of the houses, particularly those chimneys with corbelling and recessed brick panels. The old soft lime mortar must be repainted occasionally because it absorbs the effects of vibration, expansion and settlement (which is just as it should be). Usually, a safe mortar mix for old brick walls is a matching composition of lime, cement, and sand. Old mortar colors can be matched with color agents available at masonry supply stores. Joints should be raked with hand tools to match the old form of the joint, which should be shaped to shed water. Modern mortars contain a high proportion of Portland cement. Since this cement is stronger than old brick. any movement of the wall may cause cracks in the bricks themselves. a damage that is expensive to repair. Properly maintained. stucco is a durable finish. appropriate to some late 19th and early 20th century buildin.gs (but sometimes it was added onto earlier buildings. at the expense of much decorative trim, a mistake that should not be repeated). If there are minor cracks in the stucco surface, thev can simply be filled with a mortar of ceme~t, lime. and sand. If a larger patch needs repair. then the old stucco in that patch should be removed down to the lath. and the new stucco applied in two base coats and a finish coat. The work should be done in "\\'eather warmer than 50 a F. and the fresh stucco kept damp

for a few days while curing. Whether patching or filling cracks, the composition of the old stucco should be analyzed and matched . Matching the old weathered color is improbable. It is best to paint the stucco. to achieve a uniform wall.

Cleaning, Painting and Coating Masonry Brick has a warm. rich appearance and a long, weatherproof life. However, brick is attacked by water, air poll uti on, and plant tendrils. In particular, its hard outer surface must be protected. Sandblasting and other harsh chemical and abrasive cleaning techniques destroy this skin, and the brick \viii then disintegrate in the \veather. Even '''ater cleaning may have undesirable effects, and should never be done under high pressure or in cold \Yeather. Cleaning may be desirable, due to the dirty appearance of the wall , but is not a structural necessity. While brick was often painted originally, such treatment is usually not necessary. However, when brick is porous and thus not weather-tight. it does require repainting. Because old paint on brick or stucco is not easily removed, walls previously painted will look shabby unless paint is reapplied. In that case. the loose paint must first be removed.

Many LeDroit Park brick rowhouses were painted a muted Venetian red. In general, darker tones, such as forest green, rust, ochre, and gray, are preferable to the bright hues , on bricks. Stone trim, on the other hand, was never painted, and should be left bare. Paint can peel off, or seal in moisture, if not properly applied on brick or stucco. Special masonry paints are available which allow the brick to "breathe." A porous alkyd resin paint should be used on walls formerly painted, after all loose paint is removed. Latex masonry paint is better on virgin brick. But remember that, once painted, brick or stucco must be repainted about every five years . Cement and tar coatings on brick are messy and, once applied, they are irreversible. Furthermore, tar coatings on a chimney may be a fire hazard. However, low brick foundations (and also chimneys which are invisible from the street) can be coated with cement ("parged" ) to protect them from water. The same treatment may be necessary for party walls made of soft, common brick, once they have been exposed by the demolition of an adjacent building. Brick is a fine material. Unfortunately, its repair is labor-intensive and thus expensive, unless done by the owner, who must have some training to do so. Since it is timeconsuming, it makes no sense to skimp on materials. Avoid cheap, fast treatments that do not.solve the basic problems of water damage or wall movement. Ask a mason to diagnose your problem. There are no shortcuts to the good conservation of brick.

Repairing Mortar

To Repair Mortar: 1) Carefully remove old mortar to depth of 1• or more with hammer and cold chisel. or appropriate tool, to avoid breaking brick . 2) Wash out joint with hose. 3) Use trowel and 'rod ' to best match the existing joint. 4) Remove excess mortar from bricks with stiff scrub brush after allowing to set.

Roofs Whatever the type of roof on your house:

This is the preferable way to deal with it: • Retain the original roof, and repair it with the original material. • If the roof is badly deteriorated, replace an original steep metal or slate roof with the same material. Install a new metal roof on slopes below 3 on 12 (that is, a roof which drops less than 3 inches for every 12 inches of horizontal run) and a tar and gravel roof on very flat slopes. • Replace galvanized iron flashing with lead, lead-coated copper, or an alloy of lead and tin (teme metal). Never put dissimilar metals in contact with each other. • Replace or repair damaged gutters. • Paint metal roofs every five years. • Repair and retain original cornices, whether of wood or pressed metal. • Retain or replace crestings, finials and other decorative details at the roofline.

This is sometimes a good way: • Replace a badly-deteriorated metal or slate roof of over 3 on 12 slope with asphalt shingles of a color similar to the original roof. • Replace a badly-deteriorated metal roof of under 3 and 12 slope with roll roofing. • Replace a badly-damaged cornice with a simplified one, which has the same form, visual texture, and scale as the original. • Remove damaged gutters, and provide for drainage around the house at grade. • Remove badly-deteriorated crestings, finials and other roofline details.

• If necessary to add usable space, add dormers where they cannot be seen from the street, or, if visible, see that they do not break the ridgeline, and are compatible with the character of the original roof.

But this is a generally unacceptable way: • Sealing major leaks in metal or slate with tar or asphalt. • Removing a cornice without replacing it. • Blocking up or removing original dormers, or changing the roofline. • Use of bright colored or patterned asphalt shingles.

Where Water Will Attack An Old House

It's always a good 1dea to do an annual ··spring check.-up"' of your house. Th e moisture and freezmg temperatures of w 1nter can cause cracks and deterioration which, if unchecked. will leave the house open to serious and costlv detenoration. Most of these " trouble spots" can be detected by careful visual inspec tiOn.

Kidge t lashtng

Vhere to Flash ~~~~~-----chimney and any

minimum overlap

vent openings ~~~~~?;------dormers

::it:~~~--- where two roofs

meet - "valley"

~H-~~~~~~~-f--- joint between wall and porch roof joint between wall and window or door hood

The Different Types of Roofing Slate is virtually permanent , and so is a copper or a lead roof. but all these are extremely expensive today. On a slate roof, the old flashing and fastenings may eventually corrode. but this can be corrected bv a skilled craftsman without damage to the sl~te. Individual slates can be replaced. although an entirely new slate roof would now be prohibi tive in cost. It is also possible to take slates from invisible rear slopes to repair the street front of the roof. while re-roofing in the rear with asphalt shingle. Never remove a slate roof before it has been checked by a roofer with experience in slate. Do not walk on it· the slates are thin and brittle. ' Today. mineral-coated asphalt shingles are usually installed on roofs whose slope is greater than 3 on 12 (that is, which drop more than 3 inches for everv 12 inches of horizontal run). Asphalt shi~gles are moderate in cost, and last 30 to 40 years.

A galvanized iron roof is substantially cheaper than slate, while more expensive than asphalt shingle. It must be painted everv five years. Metal roofs, unlike shingle or sla-te, can be used where the slope is less than 3 on 12 (so can asphalt roll roofing. but it has only a 10 to 15 year life). Do not step on the st~nd­ ing seams of a metal roof. Major repairs of slate or metal with tar are short-lived, arid tend to make an unmanageable mess in time. However. small leaks in metal can reasonably be patched with three layers of fabric and asphalt roofing compound. Finally, when a roof is flat, it is best covered by a completely sealed surface, made up of layers of roofing felt mopped with tar or asphalt, and finished with a layer of slag or gravel. This "built-up " roof is put on bv specialists, and has a 20 to 40-year life. On any roof. the flashing (the metal strips that seal the valleys and the joints between wall and roof) is the weakest point and justifies the best material. Rusted flashing should be replaced immediately. Lead-coated copper is best. if it matches the existing metal. Its apparent high cost is small compared to its value. the small quantity needed and the cost

Flat Roof Repair

In summary, an existing slate or metal roof is best conserved. If it is hopeless, and has a slope which is over 3 on 12, replace it with modern asphalt shingle. If the slope is less than 3 on 12, the effective substitute is a new galvanized iron roof, which will require painting every five years. Or asphalt roll roofing can be used, but it will be short-lived. On a flat roof, however, a built-up roof is the correct solution. In general, the repair or replacement of the roof is best left to skilled workmen.

Flashing

AN ALTERNATE TREATMENT FOR ROOF WATER RUN-OFF

1. Cut out damaged section of roofing - remove only as many layers as are damaged. 2. Shape matching patches from new roofing felt . Cover the edges of the hole liberally with asphalt. Lay in patches one at a time, coating the edge before each additional patch. Each patch should be well set into asphalt - stand on the patch to remove air bubbles and to seal the edges. 3. When the patch has been built back up to existing roof level, nail last patch with special roofing nails. 4. Cut a final patch that is 2" longer and wider than the opening. Spread asphalt under the edges and nail in place. Cover the edge with asphalt once more and pour sand over as phalt to protect it from weather.

Gutters

IT---

gutter

c====;ff:::::::.___ soffit

PEELING PAINT AT UNDERSIDE OF SOFFIT CAN MEAN ROTTING WOOD GUTTERS.

ron Roof Cresting Patterns From 1880's Pattern Books & Catalogues

Cornices and Gutters The elaborate historic cornices, which appear just below the edges of the roofs, are essential features of these old houses. Removing them causes a marked change in character. But cornices can be simplified, if the replacement is of the same size and general appearance. If pressed metal cornices are only partially rusted, scrape off paint and all loose scale without damaging the metal underneath and prime them with an iron oxide primer (one designed to cover firm rust - not red lead or other primers which are for clean metal). Then repaint with two coats of good enamel. Roofline decorations and picturesque turret roofs are part of the charm of the houses in LeDroit Park. The roofline is second only to the cornice in establishing character. Most elaborate roof finials and crestings are made of iron (although they are painted copper green), and so they will rust. A good ornamental metal shop can duplicate them, or they can be made of wood or plastic, which is cheaper. The wood must be treated with penta-chlorophenol, and given three coats of paint. Gutters protect trim and walls, but must be promptly repaired, and cleaned twice a year. If clogged, they cause serious leaks within the building. Wood gutters can be repaired by fill ing cracks and joints with an epoxy filler and then treating the gutter with a 50/ 50 mix of pentachlorophenol and water repellent. If the damage is substantial, new wooden gutters

Cornice Flashing cornice flashing cap flash1ng where cornice flash ing meets base flashing

built up roof

gravel tar felt

roof cornice

Gutters may also be made of aluminum or vinyl with an enamel finish. Never use galvanized steel, since when it is cut in the field for installation, a break is made in its defenses against corrosion. Gutters must have downspouts, and the concentrated flow from the spout must also be led away from the house, or, where possible, connected to a storm sewer. It is also possible to remove the gutter entirely. Take care that no cracks are opened in the wall in this process. The roof water will then fall directly to the ground, and must be drained away from the foundations. If that drainage can be provided, removing the gutter is a trouble-free strategy.

W tndows ana uoors In dealing with your windows and doors:

This is the preferable way to do it: • Retain the original size of the openings . • Retain and repair original wooden sash, and the original doors, transoms, and sidelights wherever possible . • If beyond repair, replace the sash with new wood sash which is identical in size, and in the arrangement of the panes of glass. • Retain and repair original trim, including decorative cornices, brackets, lintels, pediments and hoods with their columns and mouldings. • Replace a missing or deteriorated door hood with one which reproduces the material, scale and detail of the original . • Weatherstrip doors and caulk and weatherstrip windows. • Retain and repair any stained glass, covering it with a shatter resistant plastic if necessary.

This is sometimes a good way: • Replace a door which is beyond repair with one of similar material and design, reducing the door openings only if absolutely necessary. • Add a new door hood where none previously existed, if it can be designed to be compatible with the original facade. • Add a screen or storm door of simple design, painted to match the trim, which does not obscure the door behind it. • Alter window and door openings, if necessary, and if not visible from the street. • Replace wooden windows with new vinyl-clad sash of similar dimensions. • Install aluminum storm windows made of two single panes of glass.

• Install burglar bars of simple design. • Use canvas awnings for sun protection. • Add wooden or synthetic slatted shutters to a house which might have had them originally, if the shutters are attached to the window frame and would fit the windows when closed. • Plain glass may replace stained glass which cannot be repaired.

This is a generally unacceptable way: • Replacing an original door with one of substantially different material or design. • Adding a door hood which disrupts the old facade. • Removing or blocking existing glass, sidelights, or transoms. • Changing the size of window openings, or enlarging or substantially reducing a door opening, on the facades visible from the street. • Replacing wooden windows with new metal sash, or with sash of a different design. • Removing original trim and detail around openings without replacement. • Installing aluminum awnings. • Adding shutters which do not fit the window opening when closed.

Traditional Doors Appropriate for Older Houses

~~. ~~.~~ DD DO DO

DO

DO

D~~ DO screen

double doors

Door Types To Be Avoided on Older Houses

~•

DOD

ODD

.

oao

.

•

•

0

ooq DOC·

DOC

DCC screen

Window and Door Openings Window and door openings are the most expressive features of any building. Entrance doors, in particular, are the feature that we take most notice of in our daily life. Altering openings, or removing their decorative trim, sadly reduces the character of a house. Blocking them up gives a house a look of boardedup vacancy. Old wooden sash which has rarely been repainted may be in poor condition. But since a new window is quite expensive, the old one is well worth repairing. Rotted sash can be repaired by an experienced carpenter. He can take it apart, cut out and replace the damaged part, and reassemble the whole. The bottom bars are often in poorer condition than the remainder of the sash, and frequently only the corner joints need to be tightened. If needed, new wood sash of the right size and glass

arrangement may be in stock. Sash can be made up for special cases, but this costs money. Window frames usually suffer less damage than the sash, but sills may need to be replaced or repaired. Generally, it is enough to remove the old paint, apply linseed oil to the cracks, fill them with putty or an epoxy wood filler, and repaint. If worse, the whole sill can be taken out and replaced.

)oors- Avoid These Alterations to the Doorway ~= ~2

I/

/~' ,.

l

t:;"::: _-_-_-_-----_~_j

'\

~ \

I

'

r--

J

!

I

I DO

f 1---

remov1ng deta1l and bricking up transom

DO DO

0

c::J

DO

removing lintel or door hood

When sash are so badly damaged that they must be replaced, then install new wood or vinyl-clad windows of the same dimensions and color as the original. Modern metal windows should not be used, however . They have thin frames, and look wrong even when painted. Moreover, unlike the wood or vinylclad windows, much heat is lost to the outside by transmission through the metal frames. The pattern of the panes of glass is also specific to each style, and should be copied in the replacement. In some cases in LeDroit Park, these matching replacement windows are still standard items today. Thus, it may not be necessary to have a window custom made, which is costly. In any case, the window opening should not be altered, unless it is invisible from the street.

brickmg up entry or wmdow opening

lowering entry level and changing door proportion

Stained glass adds beauty to a window and should be conserved. Shatter-resistant plastic (' 'Lexan'' is one brand) can protect it from breakage, but this will change its exterior appearance. Broken stained glass is very expensive to replace, and clear glass can be substituted for it. Unfortunate! y, it is more difficult to replace an old door than an old window, if the original size and pattern is to be maintained. Door sizes and designs are far less standardized. You may check the salvage and wrecker· s yards to approximate an original, if you have the time for it. Keep the old hardware if it is still usable. A slightly bigger door can at times be cut down to fit an opening. A new or used door which is slightly smaller than the original opening can be fitted by blocking out behind the door frame , and adjusting the trim around the door. It is usually a mistake. however, to enlarge the opening by cutting away the wall, or to block it down by means of large top or side panels . Original sidelights and transoms should be retained. Of course, a new custom door can be made to any design to fit any opening, but

rn

Traditional Windows for houses after 1850

~QueenAnne

[ill

s=r=B H:::rfJ

tffi

ITIJ

~

wooden lintel

molding -

upper sash

pane (sing le p iece of glass) mul lion

lower sash

-

s ill -::-:_

-

a "212" window (2 panes per sash)

Decorative Trim In these 19th century buildings, ornament was concentrated around windows and doors , as well as at the cornice line. [See Cornices. page 70, and Porch Features, page 83.] Window and door trim can be replaced with stock that approximates its width and scale. New ornate detail is very expensive, yet it is part of the rich character of these buildings. What you have should be conserved. Scrape off loose paint, and glue in any missing parts

Rev ival only

D

-double· hung w indow

I- ~

~~-

Parts of a Window

r- Georgian

1- Queen Anne

.....

with new wood carved to approximate the original bulk and form. Fill cracks and gouges with an epoxy woodfiller ("Marine-T ex " or equal), treat bare wood with 5% pentachlorophenol in mineral spirits, and give the whole two coats of good exterior alkyd resin paint. On the other hand, when ornate detail is almost completely rotted away, be sure to photograph it and save characteristic pieces as a basis for designing its replacement, even if this investment cannot be made until later. Door hoods (the small decorative canopies which project above doors) were original to some houses, and serve the useful function of protecting both the opening and also the person who stands before it from the weather. Existing hoods should therefore be retained and repaired, and replaced if lost. It may also be desirable to add a hood to a house that never had one, when that house has no porch to protect the entrance. Such an addition is difficult to do in a way that will not disrupt the old facade. It requires a careful design.

in dow Types to be A voided 1s1der carefully w indow rep lacelis for your 19th century or y 20th century house.

-

Don 't use " snap-in " plastic muntins, or multi-paned windows if they were not original to your house.

D -

D

- p icture windows

1----

Weather Stripping door or window hood

Wood details can often be buill by the homeowner from a combination of stock lumber pieces.

casement window

felt strip between upper and lower sash if possible. (or on top edge of lower sash)

felt beh ind track

foam strip along bottom of sash

awning window

Replacing Putty Around Windows

1. Chip out all loose putty with putty knife. (Use wire brush to remove dust and dirt.)

2. Next, paint exposed areas with linseed oi l.

Storm Windows, Storm Doors, and Other Accessories Modern aluminum storm windows are a useful addition to a house, if well fitted and ~aulked, since they save energy, protect the mner sash and make the openings more secure. The bare metal is at first glaring on an old house, but it is thin, and soon oxidizes to dull grey. If one wishes, they can be painted to match the trim when they have ~eathered for two to three years, or even Immediately, after a treatment with zinc chromate. A single panel of glass in each storm sash will obscure the old sash behind them as little as possible. Storm doors, on the other hand, save little heat, since they cannot be made airtight. They obscure what is the focal point of the house, particularly if they are of elaborate design, and are best left off entirely. If wanted for security or other re_asons, they should be a single pane of glass, Wlth a narrow bottom rail. Weather-stripping the edges of the main door is a more effective way to save heat. . Aluminum awnings are garish and obtrustve. They call too much attention to themselves and may cover interesting features of the building. They dent and fade and are Oiffirn]t tn rPn-:.ir -:.nrl n-;,jnt r-:.nl;