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LEARN STITCHING

SEW PRINCESS BLOUSE

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PRINCESS BLOUSE PATTERN * chest = 91 cm * full length = 38 cm * Across back = 35 cm

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FRONT PART * A - B = full length = 38 cm * A-C = armhole =(chest/4)-4 =(91-4)/4 =18.7cm * C-D = chest loose =(chest/4)+2.5 =(91/4)+2.5= 25.2cm * A-I = front part = chest/3 = 91/3 = 30.3cm * A-E = shoulder = AB/2 = 35/2 = 17.5 cm * A-F = Neck Breadth = (chest/12)+1.5 = 9 cm

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In the princess blouse model sew the main darts straight opposite shoulders and side darts in the arm hole to have the cup shape to fit the breast part. Attach the front and back parts and sew a zip on the back side...

copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM

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Hi guys, this is an anarkali model churidar which i sewed recently. Let me explain u the model. Its a kinda churidar in which the top is a combination of a princess blouse and a umbrella skirt. Ive already discussed them seperately, plz check them for verification. The blouse is similar to the sari blouse model but i didnt use the patti part (it depends, if u wish u can for the stiffness around the lower breast)

Ive used 2 types of cloth one is a dark brown cloth for the breast(1m) and pant(2m) another one is the light cotton material(5m) for the umbrella part and the sleeves.

Ok the above picture is the breast part in which front and the back sides are cut and i have

LEARN STITCHING

sewed 2 darts on either side of the front part one is opposite shoulders and other is on the armhole. Then join the shoulders.

Fine now lets come to the umbrella part, First u need to decide the lenght of the umbrella part. Mine is breast length

= 13" (" --> inch)

umbrella length = 30" + 5" for waist plz check how to sew a umbrella frock , so for this u need to have a square shaped cloth(all sides equal length) and u have to fold it twice as in the above pic. As u are folding the cloth twice, the full size should be 70 inches length and breadth[(30+5)*2] .

U'll not get material of the same length and breadth so u need to cut the cloth and attach them according to the size. It will be best if u prepare a pattern first.

LEARN STITCHING

So the above is the umbrella bottom , i have used 5 inches for the waist and 30 inches for the length *(total length of the cloth is the twice of it i.e, 70 inch) next draw the semicircle at a distance of 5th inch and 35th inch and then cut them. Now unfold the cloth u'll get an beautiful umbrella shape and make sure the joining of both parts are of equal size and then attach them as shown below....

pattern

Then finally attacth sleeves and finish the neck part using cross piece. Okay so i hope i look nice in my new anarkali salwar.

I spent Rs.750 and took a day to sew it. If ur trying it for the first time, plz start with a pattern

LEARN STITCHING

else for sure u'll make mistake. Hope u enjoyed my tutor. bye guys....

copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM

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How to cut and sew a armhole Armhole is a very typical area where a perfect pattern and measurements help you to sew your sleeve perfectly.

If you find any difficulty in the armhole area, let me give you a detail description. In the above diagram (measurements in inch)

C-D = chest loose= (chest/4)+1.5"

A-F = neck breadth=(chest/12)+.5"

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F-E = shoulder breadth= 2.5 or 3.5 inches

E-E' =armhole length (join E to E')

Then draw two curves at the distance of one and two inches as shown in the pattern. First you need to mark chest loose then mark the neck breadth and the shoulder breadth , next mark a straight line from E to the chest loose line(CD) i.e E-E' , that gives you the armhole length and E'-D is armhole breadth.

Next thing is that you have to draw two curves at a distance of one inch and two inch. The outer curve is at a distance of two inch and thats the mark where you have to cut for the back part of the blouse. The inner curve which is at a distance of one inch is the mark for the front part and you have to cut the armhole at the inner curve. This is how you have to cut the armhole. I hope it helps you get a better understanding. copyright @ 2010 Posted by THAZNIM

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TYPES OF NEEDLES

People who are involved in sewing should be aware of the types of needles that exists.There are different kinds of needles available in

LEARN STITCHING

market. Let us see them.

needle no-7 needle no-8 needle no-9 needle no-17 needle no-18 needle no-22 NEEDLE NO-7 ,8,9 These types of needles are used to sew with hands. Starters who wish to learn embroidery can use these types of needles. NEEDLE NO-17 This needle is used for embroidery on canvass cloths. It is used to put embroidery on tough thick cloths. NEEDLE NO-18 This needle is used for tarning purpose. The opposite ends of the needle are bigger. Particularly it is used in woolen cloths to do knitting work. NEEDLE NO-22 This is used for embroidery works. It has sharper ends and smaller length. KINDS OF NEEDLE

sharps - n0. 7,9 betweens - no. 8,6 embroidery -no.7,9 darners -no.18,5 tapestry -no.17,22 chenille -n0.18

Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO SEW CUTTORI BLOUSE

LEARN STITCHING

A cuttori blouse is slightly different from the normal saree blouse. Cuttori blouses are used normally to mingle two colours in the front part. Now i will teach the pattern for the cuttori blouse. First step is to learn the normal blouse if else you'll find it difficult so take a look at the sari blouse post. Only one step modification is made in the cuttori blouse compared to the normal blouse. Now draw the pattern for a normal blouse. The small cut is for neck and the long cut is for armhole. From the shoulder measure 12 inch and draw a straight line . In the above image you can see the red line at a distance of 12 inch. Next mark 1/2 inch above on both ends of red line and below center of red line. Next draw a curve over the red line, i've used the blue pen to draw the curve.

Next cut along the blue curve. This the procedure of the normal blouse. Next for the cuttori blouse you have to draw one more curve and cut it like the image below. This is their difference.

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From the neck take a curve to the blue line curve. You can see the red curve i've drawn. Thats the only difference in cuttori blouse.

Next cut along the red curve and only one main dart is sewed in that part. You can see a triangle shape thats the place where you have to sew dart. You can use a contrast colour or the same colour. Have a perfect pattern which helps you to cut the cloth correctly. After sewing the dart stitch them together so that agains comes back to the shape of normal blouse. Then attach the patti part and finish the whole blouse. Best of luck. Posted by THAZNIM

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TYPES OF CLOTH Cloths are the basic part of sewing. Sewers should know the varieties of cloth exist. Below the types of cloths and their qualities are discussed. Cloths are of three types

vegetable fibre

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animal fibre synthetic fibre Vegetable fibres are got through natural ways i.e., plants and trees. Cotton is a very good example of this type. Lots of people use cotton day to day which is available in rates of all range. Animal fibre- woolen,leather can be used as animal fibre. The basic source is animal. Anima skins are used to prepare cloths. Some insects are used to produce silk threads. W oolen is of three types.

carpet wool Kasmir wool goat fibre Carpet wool is taken from sheeps. These kinds are used to produce carpets that are used for various purpose. Kasmir wool is very soft. It is produced from the kashmir sheeps. These wool are very famous for their softness and shine. Goat fibre is taken from the angora goat. This is of two types

wool worsted wool Synthetic fibre are prepared by artificial means. Today synthetic fibre has taken a very good place in the field of market. Many people use synthetic fibre.

Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO SEW CHURIDAR PANT

This is a pant with some gatherings near the foot. This is also known as gathering pant. This pant has long thin legs so that you can make gatherings near the feet. I've used a sample pant to sew it.

LEARN STITCHING

The above figure is the stitching pattern for this pant. You have to cut the a-b part and b-e part seperately and finally attach them together. In the picture below i've cut the b-e part first. As the cloth is not so long we have to cut the b-e part first then in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part.

Now fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise and then place the sample pant on top of it like shown in the above picture. You can notice i have marked the outline using marking chalk. Next cut along the marking chalk like the one below.

Next unfold the cloth you'll get seperate two legs. Stitch the sides and join them together. Next in the remaining cloth we have to cut the a-b part.

LEARN STITCHING

In the pattern the b-d part is longer than the b-g part so we have to keep gatherings in the b-d part and make it to the equal length of b-g part( refer pattern). Thats wat i have done and made both joining parts of equal diameter. You can see some gatherings in the b-d part. These gatherings will come around the hip so that the cloth will comfortably fit your hip.

Next you can join them. Leave a small loop in the a-c part to pass the thread. After joining the pant is completed.

Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO SEW NECK Neck is an important part of the dress. The way you sew the neck shows u how far your good in sewing. A neat finishing of the neck gives you a complete dress. There are lots of method to sew neck(another method is crosspiece). The method below is one of its kind.

Always a separate cloth should be attached to sew neck. In the diagram below the light cream colour cloth with stripes is the main cloth where you have to sew neck. As the main cloth is transparent i've attached another orange colour cloth(lining material). It also gives thickness so that the dress will work for a long time.

Now im going to sew neck with the lining material. If your going to sew neck only with the main cloth then take a small square shaped cloth. Now cut either the main cloth or lining cloth in the shape of neck u want. In the image above i've cut only the neck of the lining cloth. To the front view of the main cloth sew the lining cloth . Remember first put stitches along the shoulders then along the shape of the neck carefully as shown in the image.

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Next cut the neck of the main cloth along the shape of the neck. Now as the lining cloth is on top of the main cloth , you have turn the lining cloth to the other end so that the main part is visible.

In the above image i've turned the lining cloth and im putting stitches on top of the neck. Slowly and carefully put sitches on top of the neck and then finaly u'll finish the neck like the one below.

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DARTS

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In the above diagram you can see coloured markings, these are called darts. You sew darts to get the desirable shape of the body. Darts are mostly used in women’s breast part to get the exact shape.

1.

In the above diagram A is the cloth where we gonna stitch dart. Fold the cloth at the point E (like closing

LEARN STITCHING

a note). 2.

Next the cloth will look like the diagram B , now see the line CO , that’s the line where you have to put stitches. That’s it . This is called dart. By stitching the CO line you are hiding a small part of cloth so that a U shape can be formed.

3.

Next unfold the cloth , now you can see a U shape where you can fit your breast exactly.

Darts can be stitched in the armhole , opposite to the shoulder. If you don’t stitch darts then you cannot get the cone or U shape to fit your breast. In the blouse below the cone shape is formed using darts.

Posted by THAZNIM

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WOMEN'S PHYSICAL STRUCTURE The truth is that a women's body shape is not compared with another women's body shape. Anyways the variation of size in a women's body must be learnt and a women's body size should be compared according to it.

breast size = 33" waist size = 26" hip size = 37" According to the nature of science the difference between breast size and hip size is 4 inch. Basically a women should have 4 inch difference.

breast size = 35" waist size = 28" hip size = 38" According to the above measurement , the breast and hip size vary

LEARN STITCHING

3 inch.

breast size = 37" waist size = 30" hip size = 41" breast size = 39" waist size = 32" hip size = 43" The above measurements have a difference of 4 inch between breast and hip. From the above examples remember that the difference between the breast size and hip size is 3 to 4 inch. W omen with breast size 41, 43, 45, 47 inch will have breast and hip size difference of 5 inch. Now we can also find the difference between hip and waist size.

hip size = 37" waist size = 26" difference = 11" hip size = 38" waist size = 28" difference = 10" From the above measurements when comparing the hip and waist size we get 10 to 11 inch difference. W omens waist part is 10 to 11 inch smaller than the hip part. W omens figure is classified into 3 types.

NORMAL FIGURE W omen having equal size difference between the breast , waist and hip parts are referred as normal figure. If the womens size difference follows the above measurements than it is normal figure.

LEAN FIGURE W omen having this kind of figure will have lesser measurements compared to the normal figure. The size variation between parts will be smaller compared to the normal figure. Women with this kind of figure is called lean figure.

STOUT STRUCTURE W omen with this kind of structure will have size greater than the normal figure. These people are fat people. Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO SEW NECK - CROSSPIECE METHOD.

LEARN STITCHING

Crosspiece is one of the method used to sew neck. Crosspiece requires only a small piece of cloth. Crosspiece means cutting the cloth in the cross direction and not in the straight direction. Take a cloth crosswise and pull it on both sides , the cloth expands but when you pull it straight the cloth will not expand because the threads are aligned very close without any gap. W hen you pull crosswise the cloth expands because there exists some gaps between the threads. W e use cross piece so that the cloth can be expanded to the maximum and can be attached to the neck . If the cloth is cut straight then the cloth will not expand and so we have to cut large length of cloth. To avoid this we use cross piece. For sari blouse , cross piece is the only method used for neck. No other method is appropriate to indian sari blouse. In the image below , take the cloth to be cut. Draw parallel lines of distance one inch (beginners use 2 inch distance) in a cross way manner and not straight.

Use marking chalk to draw lines and then cut along the lines. Join all pieces together. Next fold oneside and stitch throughout the piece. After you fold one side, the unfolded side of the crosspiece have to be attached to the outer neck (view part or front part).

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The image shows you how to attach the unfolded end to the neck. Put stitches close to the unfolded end.

After you attach the unfold end to the neck again the crosspiece have to be folded like closing the note book. Put stitches on top of it. See the diagram below.

After you fold the cross piece like closing the note book again you have to fold the cross piece once completely into the inner part of the cloth. This is the final fold and the neck is ready after this fold. In the diagram below i've folded the crosspiece to the inner part of the dress and stitches are been put on top of it.

Posted by THAZNIM Labels: NECK

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SCALE MEASUREMENT In the art of tailoring , the scale measurement is very important. People who learn sewing should learn and understand the scale measurement . The sewing teacher is responsible for the students to make them understand the scale measurement effectively. Now let’s see how to take the scale measurement. Breast measurement = 36 inch = 36/2 = 18 inch Scale measurement = 18 inch The above following method is used to find the scale measurement for women. Women’s drawer is also measured in the same way. Hip measurement = 38 inch = 38/2 =19 inch Scale measurement = 19 inch According to the scale measurement in London , sewing school uses the word ‘scale’ whereas the American sewing school use the word ‘ Drafting Power’. After the scale measurement is made, the calculations for the dress can be made easily. Take for example the chest measurement is 36 inch , ¼ of 36 inch = 9 inch 1/8 of 36 inch = 4 ½ inch Scale measurement is 18 inch. ½ of 18 inch = 9 inch ¼ of 18 inch = 4 ½ inch Hip measurement is 38 inch scale measurement = 38/2 = 19 inch ½ of scale measurement = 19/2 = 9 ½ inch inches to be added = 3 inch = 9 ½ “ + 3” = 12 ½ inch Refer the stitching pattern post to have a clear idea about the scale measurement. This method can also be used to sew dresses for people who wear lower waist. Pants are stitched in this method. Posted by THAZNIM

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SEW FROCK

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LEARN STITCHING

Let me teach you how to sew a frock. In this image you can see a frock and a pant. The kid can wear the frock alone else the pant also.

This frock consists of two parts , the chest part and the umbrella shaped skirt attached to it. First draw the stitching pattern for all parts to get a clear idea. Now take the cloth to be stitched. Fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise , place the stitching pattern and mark the edges. Next cut along the corners like the image below.

Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO SEW A PANT

Let us see how to sew a pant. Sewing a pant is very easy if you know the basic ideas to stitch cloth. Now take a pant that you have and fits you well. We’ll use the sample pant first before stitching with measurement.

LEARN STITCHING

Now draw the stitching pattern using the sample pant.

A-b = ¼ waist measurement C-d = ¼ hip measurement E-f = ½ leg measurement

Measure your waist, hip and leg else use the sample pant and draw the stitching pattern. Fold the cloth breadthwise then lengthwise ,then place the pattern on the cloth. Mark the edges using the marking chalk. Cut along the marking place.

After you cut along the edges you get the cloth in the shape of the stitching pattern. Unfold the cloth and you can see two separate parts of each leg .Here i've used a bell bottom, you can use a broad or narrow bottom as per your wish. Next thing to be done is to join the open sides of the pant. Next join the two parts of the pant. Stitch a small loop in the waist for the thread to pass. That’s all simple easy pant is ready.

LEARN STITCHING

Posted by THAZNIM

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SEW W omen who know stitching can make use of it to earn revenue. These people should have sound knowledge of the stitching methods. The art of stitching profectly to the Body shape is required. So one should train themselves to stitch perfectly and should have a very good understanding of all the stitching methods. Tailor should have a compelete understanding of how to measure The dress have to be stitched exactly according to the measurement and it should fit the human body finely. The fundamental structure of the human body is the Skeleton. This is called the primary structure of human anatomy. The Body around the skeleton is called secondary structure of human anatomy. The human body is divided into 4 parts. Head Body Leg Hand The joins are of three types Gliding joint Ball And socket joint Hinge joint The spinal cord from the back neck looks like a chain . The spinal cord starts from the back neck and ends till the hip like a chain EIGHT HEAD POLICY The human body’s head is considered as the fundamental to divide the human body into eight heads or the eight head policy is developed from the shape of the human body . Let ‘s now see the eight head policy, they are as follows Head

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Brest Stomach Hip Thigh Knee Calf Leg bottom Thus the head plays a major role in the women’s body to create the eight Head policy. The measurement from the forehead to the back neck(where the spinal cord starts) have to be taken. Based on this measurement the whole body is divided into eight parts. Leg structure is of three types. Normal leg structure Close leg structure Open leg structure The womens leg can be divided based on their leg structure Normal leg Close leg Open leg CLOSE LEG The womens thighs are based on the hip measurement. Women who have fleshy thighs will have different size, the body shape will vary. According the the body shape women with fleshy thighs are called close legs. OPEN LEGS W omen who don’t have equal measurements in their waist and hip parts are discussed here. Womens hip part according to the equal measurement of human body should have ten inch difference with the waist measurement. If the womens hip part is more than ten inch difference with the waist part then there’s lot of flesh in the hip part. Hip part is of three parts Normal hip measure: there should be ten inch variation for the waist and hip measurement Flat hip measure : the waist and hip part have six to eight inch variation Stooping hip measure : The hip and waist have 11 to 13 inch variation. NOTE: according to the equal human measurement , the waist part of womens body is smaller than the hip part. correctly and stitch perfectly. Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO STITCH A CHURIDAR

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This is the new churidar I stitched. This is a normal churidar but I've cut the churidar into two parts and again joined them. Now measure from the beginning of the shoulder till 13th inch. Cut at the 13th inch horizontally so that you get two different parts, the breast part and the part below breast. [Take a look at the older churidar & salwar post to have a complete idea] Just take the breast part , now im gonna sitich darts so that cup shape is formed to fit the breast exactly. Now stitch a small dart on the armhole and the main dart straight to the shoulder. Stitch darts on both sides of the front piece, you can also stitch darts on the back piece. A small dart straight to the shoulder is enough. When you stitch darts on the front piece don’t bring the darts closer so that you don’t get a cone shape.Stitch darts of length 2 inch so that you get a u shape. Next join the shoulders, stitch the sleeve and then stitch the neck. It will be fine if you give cross piece to neck. After you finish the breast part join it with the bottom part. Fold and stitch the bottoms and sides. This is the salwar matching to the above one. I’ve stitched a normal salwar with some gatherings so that the hip part is comfortable.

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Posted by THAZNIM

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HOW TO MEASURE WOMEN'S BODY A women’s body can be measured based on their body shapes. Inch tape is the major sewing tool used to measure body. Lets see the measurement areas of a women. 1. Breast measurement 2. low breast measurement 3. waist measurement 4. hip measurement 5. full shoulder measurement 6. half shoulder measurement 7. neck measurement 8. sleeve length 9. hand measurement 10. front dress length 11. back dress length The above measurements are required for a women. Based on the costume, the required body parts can be measured. Now let’s see the measurements needed for particular costumes. For bra you need to take the following measurements front body length breast measurement waist measurement For blouse, shirt, tops you need to take measurements like breast measurement waist measurement natural waist length half shoulder length sleeve length front dress length back dress length To sew a pant, the measurements required are leg length waist measurement hip measurement thigh round measurement W omen’s measurement is based on two main parts, the blouse part and the pant part. So the measurements have to be taken exactly according to the parts . The parts required alone must be measured accurately to get a perfect sew. The measurements vary according to the parts of the body. Let’s see how to find body rise to stitch a pant. There are two types in finding the body rise , they are :

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Half of the hip measurement is body rise. i.e , hip measurement = 39 inch = 39/3 = 13 inch body rise = 13 inch To stitch a drawer , first the length measurement has to be taken then the person has to sit on a chair. Then measure from waist to knee in the sitting posture. Add 1(1/2) inch. i.e, hip measurement=36 inch measurement taken in the sitting posture = 10(1/2)” additional measurement= 1(1/2)” so body rise=12inch Follow the body rise measurement to stitch a comfortable pant.

Posted by THAZNIM

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MEASUREMENTS W omen’s measurements varies according to the parts of the body. For example the breast and the waist measurements varies about 6 to 7 inches. Breast measurement and hip measurements varies about 3 to 4 inch The waist measurement and the hip measurement varies about 10 inch to 12 inch. Let’s see the measurement variation in a women’s body. Breast measurement 31 Low breast measurement 28 Waist measurement 25 Hip measurement 35 Posted by THAZNIM

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TYPES OF MEASUREMENTS Sewing includes two types of measurements. They are inch measurement type and centimeter measurement type. These are the two types of measurements that are followed in sewing dresses. Measurements are based on major two types, they are as follows:

1.

British type

2.

Metric type

British type follows the inch , foot measurement. Metric type follows the millimeter, centimeter and meter measurement.

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In british type of measurement 1 inch is made up of 8 parts. Each part represents ( 1/8' ) of 1 inch. 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 1"

1 foot = 12 inch 3 foot = 36 inch In british style of measurement 1 centimeter represents ten parts. These ten parts are called millimeter. Ten millimeter(mm) makes one centimeter(cm).

10 mm = 1 cm 100 cm = 1m(metre) Lets now see the conversion of british style of measurement to metric measurement

1 inch = 2.5 cm 1 foot = 30.50 cm 3 foot = 91 cm Conversion of metric measurement to british measurement

1 cm = 0.4 inch 1 metre = 1.1 foot METRIC TYPE BRITISH TYPE 36 inch 91 cm 45 inch 114 cm 54 inch 137 cm 60 inch 152 cm Posted by THAZNIM

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ARMHOLE (DEPTH OF SCYE) To know the arm hole (Depth of scye) , the breast or chest measurement should be taken and from it the armhole is measured for both men and women.The tailors use this type to measure the armhole (depth of scye).

The depth of scye is measured through various styles , lets see some of them.

CHEST MEASUREMENT ARM HOLE

24 to 30 inch = (chest/4) + 1(1/4) inch 30 to 28 inch = (chest/4) + 1(5/8)inch > 38 inch = (chest/5) - 1/2 inch

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