Krakow In Your Pocket

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Kraków No. 90, October - November 2014

Stained Glass p.6 All Saints’ Day p.9

No. 90 - 5zł

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Contents

Features Stained Glass All Saints’ Day

Further Afield 6 9

Arrival & Transport

10

City Basics Basic History

16 18

Culture & Events

20

Restaurants Polish Food

28 46

Cafés

56

Nightlife

58 66

Kazimierz Nightlife

Sightseeing Old Town Wawel Kazimierz Podgórze Jewish Ghetto Salwator Nowa Huta

69 82 86 92 95 98 100

Wieliczka Auschwitz Tarnów Tychy

104 107 110 114

Leisure

116

Shopping

120

Directory

126

Hotels

128

Maps & Index City Centre Map City Map Nowa Huta Map Street Index Listings Index Features Index

135 136-137 138 139 140 142

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE

The sun sets on Wawel Royal Castle (page 82). Photo by Artur Turyna; see more great photos at www.wawel.net

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Foreword At Kraków IYP we’re celebrating our 90th edition, and though first time readers won’t be the wiser, both IYP and the city itself have made amazing strides in the fourteen years we’ve been on the market, to say nothing of the past several months. We’re glad you could join us. While from afar October and November may not seem like the most attractive months on the calendar for visiting PL, you’ve chosen wisely, as a nocturnal walk around the ancient thoroughfares of Kraków’s UNESCO-listed Old Town will no doubt quickly attest. At no other time of year are the city’s potent powers of enchantment, persuasion and mad possession on such display as in the autumn – an effect which the locals knowingly attribute to the halny, or ‘mad wind from the mountains,’ which roars through the city like an unseen serpent to stir the dark matter of the brain. Hold on to your hat. Whatever unseen hand has guided you to Kraków, use your own to grip this guide and go have an unforgettable time. And when you get a chance, tell us all about it via [email protected].

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31 Circulation 20,000 copies published every two months Editorial Editors: Garrett Van Reed; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © In Your Pocket Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

FEATURES It’s a double feature in this edition of Kraków IYP - our 90th! - as we take you on a tantalising tour of the city’s most magnificent stained glass on page 6, and honour the ancestors with our spotlight on All Saints’ Day on page 9. To learn more seasonal secrets, read our box on Andrzejki on page 118 and see what your future holds.

Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Kraków In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locallyproduced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). krakow.inyourpocket.com

Stained Glass Home to a proliferation of magnificent churches, the largest stained glass studio in Poland, and resident artistic geniuses Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer, stained glass enthusiasts will have an absolute field day in Kraków, which arguably has some of the finest examples of the craft in all of Europe. Though there are many beautiful and intricate pieces of medieval window art throughout the city - particularly in Wawel Cathedral and St. Mary’s Basilica - stained glass as an artform really reached its pinnacle here at the turn of the century during Kraków’s Art Nouveau movement (known locally as ‘Młoda Polska’). In 1902 S.G. Żeleński (brother of famous writer Tadeusz Boy-Żeleński) founded a studio specifically for stained glass, and attracted the best artists of the generation to work there, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko - the nephew of renowned painter Jan Matejko. After working together during the restoration of the stained glass in St. Mary’s Basilica in 1899, both Mehoffer and Wyspiański turned the force of their creative energies to stained glass, creating some of their most defining works of art in public buildings around Kraków’s Old Town. Below we list the most notable places to admire stained glass in Kraków, including Żelenski’s historic stained glass studio, which has recently been opened to the public as a museum. HERBEWO OFFICE COMPLEX Though most of the stained glass in Kraków is at least a century old, this modern office complex near Nowy Kleparz (completed in 2001) embraced the medium by commissioning the Żeleński Studio/Stained Glass Museum to produce numerous large-scale stained glass pieces throughout several of the buildings. The most impressive, however,

Piotr Ost strow rowski of the Stained Glass Museum, works on Wyspiański’s Wawel row el triptych befor ore its installation att Wy W spi piiańs ańń kkii Pav P ill Pa ilillion ion on. n.

Visions Etched in Glass

Kraków In Your Pocket

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are on the six storey staircase of the Lubelska 29 building, whose colourful, abstract designs stand alone when viewed on each floor, but also weave together into a coherent whole when viewed in their full glory via the ingenious glass elevator that takes you up and down. Together they represent the largest non-secular stained glass installation in PL. The building can be visited during typical work hours, and a bonus of making the trip is the Zielone Tarasy roof garden and restaurant, with its great views of the Old Town. QI-1, ul. Lubelska 29, www.herbewo.krakow.pl. JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE (DOM JÓZEFA MEHOFFERA) Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 18zł, kids under 7 free, kids 7-16 1zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y MEDICAL SOCIETY HOUSE One of the city’s best kept secrets, another large, magnificent window designed by Wyspiański lies hidden on the corner of this obscure street not far from the train station. Titled ‘Apollo: the Copernican Solar System,’ the window dates from 1904 and can’t be seen from the outside. Though the building is not technically open to the public, name-dropping the artist should be enough for the guard to let you in to have a quick look at the majestic stairwell where Wyspiański’s window is in full view.QE-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 4. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Some of Kraków’s most iconic works of art aren’t applied on canvas or carved in stone, but composed of light and glass. Local stained glass masters have been embellishing the city’s public spaces with functional fine art for centuries, creating a rich collection that includes some of the most awe-inspiring windows in the world. In this issue’s feature we illuminate you on where to find Kraków’s most phenomenal stained glass art. 6

Wyspiański’s ‘Apollo’ at the Medical Society House

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Stainded Glass

All Saints’ Day visit is absolutely worth it for fans of the medium and Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH-3, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.muzeumwitrazu.pl. Open Thurs-Sat at 12:00 and 13:00 for guided tours only, and by prior arrangement. Guided tours 32/24zł per person in English; 25/18zł in Polish. N ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA If you only visit one church in Kraków, make it this one. Built in the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in Kraków, but its legacy was forged at turn of the century when Wyspiański filled the interior with colourful Art Nouveau murals that deftly balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also designed the church’s magnificent stained glass windows, including the imposing, almost violently energetic ‘God in the Act of Creation’ window over its rear entrance. Argued by some to be the greatest modern stained glass window in the world, it is certainly a must-see for all visitors.QC-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www. franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, except Sunday when there is no visiting due to mass.

‘God in the Act of Creation,’ St. Francis’ Basilica.

STAINED GLASS MUSEUM Located in the premises of S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and examples of finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Młoda Polska/Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered Thurs, Fri and Sat at 12:00 in English, and 13:00 in Polish. Tours (also available in Italian, French, Russian and Ukrainian) for groups of 5 or more can also be arranged at other times if done so in advance. Though more expensive than other museums, a 8

Kraków In Your Pocket

WYSPIAŃSKI PAVILLION Following his work on St. Francis Basilica, Wyspiański was commissioned to design a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral. At the time, however, the artist’s haunting portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to instal, and the project was shelved until director Andrzej Wajda resurrected the idea of producing them 100 years later. Using Wyspiański’s designs, the work was carried out by Piotr Ostrowski of the Stained Glass Museum and a building designed by Krzystof Ingarden specifically for displaying them was erected near St. Francis Basilica in 2007. Curious for its facade of rotating brick panels and the fact that it not suited for displaying stained glass at all (facepalm), the tiny building is too narrow to view the windows from inside, and natural light is not able to pass through it at all. As a result, the out-facing windows are lit from inside and best viewed at night. Martyred Polish heroes St. Stanisław (on the left) and Henryk Pobożny (on the right) are shown Christ-like at the moment of their deaths, while Kazimierz the Great’s bare skull bears the royal crown between them. The building also serves as a tourist information point (open 09:00 - 20:30). QC-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętich 2.

As one of Poland’s most important public holidays, only public transportation and emergency response employees are obliged to work on November 1st (which falls on a Saturday in 2014), so don’t be surprised to find your favourite shop, restaurant or bar bolted shut. Kraków’s Catholic cemeteries, in contrast, will be open until last guest, and we’ve listed those in the centre below so that you too can join in this inspiring tradition.

CEMETERIES Readers expecting a wild Halloween full of costume parties and debauchery may be surprised to learn that in Poland the ‘holiday’ is completely overshadowed by the rather sobering, sombre proceedings of November 1st and 2nd every year. Known nationally as All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich Świętych) and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny, or Dzień Wszystkich Zmarłych) respectively, these two days of the calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves. In accordance with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending the graves with a care that is truly touching, before laying wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit throughout the length of the holiday. As night descends, the country’s graveyards are aglow with the warm light of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone with a heart that still beats. Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this tradition actually has pagan roots. After All Saints’ Day was established as a holy day of obligation in 835, Saint Odilon had the bright idea in 998 of designating November 2nd as All Souls’ Day to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of ‘Dziady’. During Dziady (literally, ‘Forefathers’), the living would prepare an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed, believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife and return to their families. Places were set at the table for the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would bring on bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find an unloved grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.] As it happens, Kraków is perhaps Poland’s most evocative, ‘necropolitan’ city in which to witness the events. While visitors to the city may not have ancestors buried here, a trip to one of Kraków’s cemeteries during this unforgettable ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it for yourself. Take a candle along with you.

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RAKOWICKI CEMETERY The largest and most important of Krakow’s cemeteries, Rakowicki is also its most moving site during All Saints’. Within the astounding candlelight you’ll find many fine examples of sepulchral art, as well as impressive memorials to Poland’s 20th century struggles. Across the street is Kraków’s Military Cemetery, and together they represent an important source of Polish patriotism. A twenty minute walk from the market square, simply follow the throng, or take tram number 2 to the end of the line and throng it from there.QJ-1, ul. Rakowicka 26. SALWATOR CEMETERY On the hillside beneath Kościuszko Mound, this cemetery lies in one of Kraków’s most beautiful districts. A more intimate affair than Rakowicki, souls that report here will enjoy spookier surroundings with grand views of the city and valley below. It’s also more of a pilgrimage: take tram number 1 to its terminus at Salwator and enjoy the picturesque 10 minute stroll uphill along tree-lined ul. Św. Broniswały.QG-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1. NEW PODGÓRZE CEMETERY This a large, picturesque memorial park is our favourite cemetery to visit over the holiday thanks to its basinshape which creates an amphitheatre of coloured candlelight. Located behind Krakus Mound, if visiting on All Souls’ Day (Nov. 2st) don’t be surprised to find locals celebrating modern paganism on top of the mound around midnight, from which you can also catch views of every cemetery in Kraków glowing in the distance. Serviced by its own stop called ‘Cmentarz Podgórski,’ you can get there by catching bus numbers 703, 706 or 769.QK-5, ul. Wapienna 13.

Photo by mayanais/flickr.com

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Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport The airport is in Zone II, meaning you need to buy a 4/2zł fare from the ticket machine at the bus-stop. The journey takes about 35-45mins, depending on traffic and construction complications. Travellers would be wise to give themselves plenty of time not only at the airport before their flights, but also to get there. AIRPORT TAXIS: The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances. The idea is that this ‘trusted’ service offers a set price of 69zł from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time price hikes. We haven’t found that to be the case however. Though you shouldn’t have to, we still advise travellers to confirm the price before choosing a taxi at the airport. You shouldn’t have to pay more than 69zł for the 25-35min journey (note that it can take longer during peak traffic times), and you can save money by splitting the fare with others. You can also save by calling ahead to arrange a cab to take you back to the airport for your return flight; try a few of the companies we list under Taxis and you may be able to negotiate a fare as low as 30zł from the Old Town.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www. krakowairport.pl.

Krakó Kraków Kra ków ó Ai A rpo rport rrtt

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport is currently the subject of one of the largest airport investments in history (estimated at one billion złoty), and as such, will resemble a confounding construction site until late 2015. The project will completely renovate and restructure the current passenger terminals, making them three times larger, connecting them to a new 4-star Hilton Garden Inn hotel (currently being built) and new airport train station (also under construction), and better integrate local roadways into the complex. All the while, the airport will remain open and authorities have promised not to obstruct its basic operation. As it was constructed, the Kraków Airport consisted of two small terminals - creatively referred to as 1 and 2 - with Terminal 2 offering little more than a pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM (bankomat); and Terminal 1 fearuting a currency exchange, ATMs, a cafe, restaurant and tourist information point (open 09:00 - 19:00). Getting through check-in and security should still be relatively speedy, but we’re not sure how these other services will be affected by the construction (if at all). Note that the two terminals are on opposite ends of the airport complex and you have to walk around the entire perimeter to get from one to the other (one of the main reasons we presume this whole project is being done). GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT: Formerly, the best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town was by train. We presume that this will again someday be the case, however, train service between Kraków and the airport is currently 10 Kraków In Your Pocket

BY BUS suspended while the track is being modernised. The rail line is not expected to be back in operation until mid-2015. As such, aside from taxi, bus is presently the best way to get to and from the airport. Public buses 292 (departs every 20mins) and 208 (once an hour) both make the journey; upon leaving Terminal 1, find the bus stop to your right. Note that from Terminal 2 you can take a shuttle bus to Terminal 1 to access public transportation. Night bus 902 also makes the trip from this stop with hourly departures between 23:25 and 03:55. To get to the airport, both buses 208 and 292 depart from the Kraków Bus Station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) at the stop ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ - located on the lower level of the bus station, just east of the train station. Exact bus times can be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl.

PRIVATE TRANSPORT BEKRAKOW.COM This professional transport company offers affordable airport transfers from Kraków Airport, and Katowice Airport, as well as tours and any other custom transport service you might require.Qtel. (+48) 530 80 00 09, www.bekrakow.com. CHAUFFEURDRIVESERVICE.EU Custom chauffeur service for groups or individuals, from professional English-speaking drivers operating a fleet of modern luxury vehicles.Qtel. (+48) 530 80 00 09, www.chauffeurdriveservice.eu. krakow.inyourpocket.com

KRAKÓW BUS STATION Although integrated directly into the underground Kraków Glówny transportation centre, Kraków retains it’s own separate bus station, located directly east of the train platforms. The small building comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the small top floor of the bus station you’ll find a 24-hour toilet, snack bar, restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15zł (depending on size) for 24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time waiting room. Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct way into the Old Town is through the underground Kraków Główny; once you’re inside this labyrinth follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to exit in the direction of the market square. Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.For exact departure times check the website which is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a short walk away, follow signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ into and out of the shopping mall to get there.QE-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ticket office open 07:00 - 19:45. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

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Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

BY TRAIN

BY CAR

MAIN TRAIN STATION (DWORZEC GŁÓWNY) Following a major, multi-year, 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s new modern transportation centre - is finally up and running in all its vast, underground glory. The new station essentially renders the old above-ground station building obsolete, transferring all services underground, and creating theoretically easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall has also been cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll now also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities - including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more - inside the new transportation centre. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, I mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP is here to help you sort it out.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/ hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via Katowice, Opole and Wrocław) to the west and Tarnów to the east (though further expansion of this road is planned). While the 80km stretch east to Tarnów is still currently toll-

SERVICES: Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can now be found somewhere inside the sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Kraków train station. In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you get lost and can’t find your way out for several days. 24 ticket windows (open 24hrs), plus several automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas (including a place for first-class ticket holders to quarantine themselves), tourist information (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall. ARRIVING BY TRAIN: Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 75 in the direction of ‘Kurdwanów’) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away. If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station is a bit of a challenge. There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a trap!”). Signs to ‘dworzec autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it may be 12 Kraków In Your Pocket

easier to take the stairs down from the platforms, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (D-2); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (D-2) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. DEPARTING BY TRAIN: With the train station having been completely moved underground, there’s no longer a clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that train service to Kraków Balice airport is currently suspended, due to modernisation of the tracks. Travellers to the airport should go by bus or taxi.]

Unless your ride is this fly (a souped-up Polski Fiat), just leave it at home.

free, a 9zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the direction of Katowice, and again when you exit. Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive down: violate this last rule and the chances of getting a fine are incredibly high, whether you’ve realised your infraction or not. Kraków’s road network is not at all adequate for the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks, and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass from the ticket machine, or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and place it on the driver’s side of your dashboard. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10zł for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Public parking lots are also marked on the map in the back of our print guide.

The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train, which basically determine the length of the journey, its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fastest and most expensive, giving you an assigned seat for the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer international connections and require the paid premium for seat reservation as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which offer second class compartments free of reservation fees (though you may end up sitting in the aisle), and InterREGIO (IR) trains which have no seat reservation fees. With these budget options you pay less, but the journey will take longer and may try your good humour with the potential for overcrowding and being forced to sit or stand in the aisle.QE-1, ul. Pawia 5a, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 23:30 to 01:00. krakow.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

October - November 2014

13

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport TAXIS

Kazimierz art car, ul. Józefa. Unavailable for rental. Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car; ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL. ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE. CONTACT: tel: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

14 Kraków In Your Pocket

Internationally trusted service offering a range a vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station and also at the airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00 except Sundays, when they are only available by phone).QJ-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

A wide range of cars including Audis, BMWs, Kias and Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.QD-2, ul. Zacisze 7 (3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www. joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours on request. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You can expect a standard fare to be about 7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase by up to 50%.

1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that ISIC and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets.

For those just arriving, taxis await you outside the airport terminals, and on the rooftop parking lot of the train station. At the airport, the ‘Kraków Airport Taxi’ service claims to charge a flat rate of 69zł to the Old Town, but we’ve found that they aren’t always honest, so make sure you confirm the price before you commit to the ride. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. BARBAKAN TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.

Antique tram outside the City Engineering Museum

MEGA TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu. RADIO TAXI 919Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.com.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality), and and purchase tickets from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS Kraków’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use, but if you want to make it even easier, check out the krakow.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple Euros you’ll spend to download it. If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website. October - November 2014

15

City Basics

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of September 23, 2014 based on €1 = 4.14zł

Longest River Kraków is split by the Vistula (Wisła) River. At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and into the Bay of Gdańsk. Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. By comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2013) Poland: 38,502,396 Warsaw: 1,718,219 Kraków: 758,940 Łódź: 715,360 Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a land-line or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can also be found in the Directory. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. 16 Kraków In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.60 zł 1.49 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 9.00 zł 2.99 zł 14.70 zł 5.37 zł 3.80 zł

€ 2.32 € 0.36 € 5.79 € 0.72 € 2.17 € 0.72 € 3.55 € 1.30 € 0.92

LAW & ORDER In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens. Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as ‘Entertainment Street’), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course). Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing krakow.inyourpocket.com

obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

MONEY Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor.’ Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of kantors in Kraków that won’t rip you off, see Directory. Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination, prices in Poland and especially Kraków have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł, while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Kraków’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

October - November 2014

17

Basic History

Basic History One of the oldest cities in Poland, archaeological evidence proves that there were settlements in the Kraków area as early as the Palaeolithic period, with stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating back - way, way back - to 50,000BC. Legend attributes the city’s founding to Krakus, the mythical ruler who vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The mysterious earthwork Mounds named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in the Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly later in the 8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the ‘Vistulans.’ By 966, the date of the first written record of the city’s name, Kraków had already grown into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade. In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Kraków became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which would be modernised over the next few centuries. Kraków particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be incorporated into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364 he founded the Kraków Academy, now known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its ‘golden age.’ Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks, and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring times the city’s fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Kraków’s importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund III’s decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596; however Kraków maintained its role as the official site of royal coronations and burials. 18 Kraków In Your Pocket

Woodcut of Kraków from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493

The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the ‘Black Death’ that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed the world’s second democratic constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only days later the country’s more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition transpired twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputation as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated his famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795) and Kraków became part of the Austrian province of Galicia. Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation Kraków’s fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and art during the pre-war ‘fin de siecle’ era. The city was also modernised during this time with running water, electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.

View of Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

krakow.inyourpocket.com

When the First World War broke out, Kraków was besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city. Kraków became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgórze freed the city in advance of the war’s end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Kraków, setting up command of their ‘General Government’ (the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as ‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgórze district, with the Liban and Płaszów work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.

Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.

Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’ began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the country’s largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken Kraków’s intellectual and artistic heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed, including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent trade union gathered enough momentum to force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Kraków’s archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the first non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Kraków is arguably Poland’s most important historical and cultural artefact. In 2013 the city was visited by 9.25 million tourists. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

HISTORICAL TIMELINE 966: First written record of the city 1000: Kraków bishopric established 1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland 1257: Kraków granted municipal rights 1320: The first royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King Władysław the Short 1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the Wisła River 1364: Jagiellonian University founded 1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth 1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw 1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city 1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from Kraków to Vienna, defeating the Turks and saving Christian Europe 1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King August III 1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First Partition of Poland follows 1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the failed Kościuzko Uprising 1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after the Third Partition of Poland 1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe 1939: Nazi occupation begins 1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgórze 1942: Płaszów concentration camp established in Podgórze 1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto 1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army 1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta 1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtyła inaugurated as Pope John Paul II 1981: Martial law declared in Poland 1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize 1989: Party-free elections in PL; Communist regime crumbles 1999: Poland joins NATO 2000: Kraków is the first Polish city to serve as ‘European Capital of Culture’ 2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II 2004: Poland joins the European Union 2005: Pope John Paul II passes away 2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk, Russia; Kaczyński and his wife Maria are controversially buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel 2013: Kraków is designated official UNESCO ‘City of Literature’ October - November 2014

19

Culture & Events

Culture & Events CULTURAL CENTRES BRITISH COUNCILQC-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CERVANTES INSTITUTEQC-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel. (+48) 12 421 32 55, www.cracovia.cervantes.es. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GOETHE INSTITUTEQC-3, Rynek Główny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/krakau. Institute open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ITALIAN CULTURAL INSTITUTEQC-5, ul. Grodzka 49, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 43, www.iiccracovia.esteri.it. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. NOWA HUTA CULTURAL CENTREQO-4, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow. pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. ROTUNDAQH-3, ul. Oleandry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl. Box office open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets depending on repertoire.

OPERA STAGES

Intern Int ernati ati t ona naal Book nal Book oook Fairr

ART GALLERIES 07/12/14

TOMMY EMMANUEL BRILLIANT GIANT OF GUITAR

21/09/14

JESSE COOK

PALACE OF THE ARTSQB-2, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:15 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł. N

CINEMAS CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ QJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www. cinema-city.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:30. Tickets 1430zł.

SENSUAL MUSIC OF THE SOUTH

21/09

BUNKIER SZTUKIQB-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 18zł.

– 7/12

2014

www.gitaraplus.pl TICKETS AVAILABLE AT:

www.tbox24.pl

20 Kraków In Your Pocket

KRAKÓW OPERAQE-2, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl. Box office open 10:00 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the evening performance. Tickets 10-140zł. Available at the box office and online.

PHILHARMONIC STAGES KRAKÓW PHILHARMONICQB-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 619 87 33, www.filharmonia.krakow.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour befor the performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 20100zł.

THEATRE STAGES GROTESKA THEATREQA-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 37 62, www.groteska.pl. Box office open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:00; Sat 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Tickets 15-40zł.

IMAX KRAKÓW QL-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www. kinoimax.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 20-30zł.

SŁOWACKI THEATREQD-2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl. Box office open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 18:00; Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 15-80zł.

KINO POD BARANAMI QC-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www. kinopodbaranami.pl. Box office open 45 minutes before the first showtime until 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 12-20zł. N

STARY TEATR QC-3, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www. stary.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and 2 hours before the performnce. Closed Mon. Tickets 1550zł. Y

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October - November 2014

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Culture & Events NICHOLAS PAYTON TRIO 19.10 SUNDAY NICHOLAS PAYTON TRIO Grammy award winner Nicholas Payton got his talent and love for music from his father, jazz bassist and sousaphonist Walter Payton. Nick mainly plays the trumpet (started at the tender age of four), but he’s good with a number of other instruments as well - like the electric piano. His discography includes twelve studio albums, with the most recent one, Sketches of Spain, released in 2013. He also collaborated on albums with Elvin Jones and Allen Toussaint. Music isn’t all this man does - he’s also a race scholar and somewhat provocative writer (his piece On Why Jazz isn’t Cool Anymore sparked pretty lively debate). This is him performing with his trio, Vicente Archer on bass and Joe Dyson on percussion.QE-2, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, www.krakowskiezaduszkijazzowe. dt.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90-150zł. Available at www.ekobilet.pl and InfoKraków (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 - 18:00).

Culture & Events BALLET 05.12 FRIDAY MOSCOW CITY BALLET - SWAN LAKE This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so flawlessly, needs no introduction. It is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time.QA/B-7, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Performance starts at 19:00. Tickets 120-160zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 06.12 SATURDAY MOSCOW CITY BALLET - NUTCRACKER It’s the story of a girl that receives a gift nutcracker that turns into a prince, with her as his princess, travelling through a land of dreams and fantasy. Seen by more than a 150,000 people in Poland, the Moscow City Ballet is back performing the Nutcracker, and is sure to be dancing off with audiences’ imagination until the Christmas presents drop into their laps. We are sure that, apart from the dancers, some of the romantics that attended the previous performances will be returning for the journey - so you will have to be fast if you would like to see this dazzling performance!QA/B-7, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Performance starts at 17:00. Tickets 120-160zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

CONCERTS 15.10 WEDNESDAY PAROV STELAR BAND Parvov Stellar is the stage name of Austrian musician/producer Marcus Füreder (who really does have a thing for nicknames - depending on who you ask, he’s also known as Plasma, Cash Candy, and Nola Grey). Marcus is considered the founder of the electro swing genre, and plays internationally with his band, called - - well, you guess it.QR-2, Łaźnia Nowa Theatre, Os. Szkolne 25. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

More events online: krakow.inyourpocket.com 22 Kraków In Your Pocket

krakow.inyourpocket.com

ICC GALLERY Tuesday–Sunday  a.m.– p.m. Kraków Rynek Główny 

INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE

Organisers:

Photo by P. Mazur.

04.11 TUESDAY MICHAEL BUBLÉ Four-time Grammy award winner Michael Bublé hails from British Columbia and is indeed quite Canadian his other great passion besides music is hockey, which he would have pursued if natural talent allowed (apparently he wasn’t much good). His albums include Call Me Irresponsible, Crazy Love, and Christmas.QL-2, Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, www.go-ahead.pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 305-518zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00). 05.11 WEDNESDAY ELTON JOHN This is the concert all of Poland is waiting for! Sir Elton Hercules John, known for his blonde hairdo and eccentric eye specs as much as for his music, is a force of nature, having sold an astounding 300 million albums worldwide during his half-century career. He’s got six Grammys, five Brits, an Oscar, a Golden Globe, and who knows what else - and now he’s in Kraków.QL-2, Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, www.makroconcert. com/pl. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 195-495zł. VIP ticket 595zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major gallery on the market square.QC-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 14zł. 10.10 FRIDAY - 08.03 SUNDAY THE MYTH OF GALICIA The Galician region has been inhabited by various ethnicities that mythologized its culture and history. This exhibition takes a look at the region through the eyes of four major groups: Poles, Ukrainians, Jews, and Austrians. The works on display will include 19th and 20th century paintings by Tadeusz Ajdukiewicz, Jacek Malczewski, Vlastimil Hofman, Teodor Axentowicz, Włodzimierz Tetmajer, and Władysław Jarocki.QC-3, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 14zł. 12.11 WEDNESDAY JACK WHITE The White Stripes frontman Jack White is focusing on a solo career, having released his debut solo album Blunderbuss in 2012 to wide critical acclaim (two Grammy nominations!) - and having followed it up with Lazaretto in June of 2014. Tickets for the first Kraków concert sold out within 3 minutes, prompting organisers to secure a second date - and so Jack will be playing two concerts back-to-back.QE-6, Stara Zajezdnia, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, www.alterart.pl. Concerts start at 18:00 and 22:30. Tickets 188zł. Available at www.alterart.pl. October - November 2014

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Culture & Events SFOGATO FESTIVAL

25.09 THURSDAY - 03.12 WEDNESDAY SFOGATO FESTIVAL This may not be Warsaw, but there’s no reason Kraków should not have its own Chopin festival - and indeed it does. Only music history buffs will know it by the name, though. Sfogato is an Italian word that comes from the verb to flow, or to escape, first used as a musical term by Fryderyk to describe an episode in his Barcarolle in F-Sharp Major, Op. 60. This year’s opening concert will be Chopin Soirée: Chopin - In the Circle of Songs. The programme will include not only Chopin’s compositions, but also works by his contemporaries and friends Franz Liszt and Robert Schumann. The concert will take place at 7 PM on September 25th in the Center-City Cultural Centre (Śródmiejski Ośrodek Kultury) on ul. Mikołajska 2. Other festival events include a photography exhibition entitled Frédéric Chopin’s Jardin des Plantes, the International Sfogato Ringtone & Signal Composers Competition, and a Music - Art - Media Conference chaired by Prof. Helena Wrona-Polańska. The competition winners will be announced during the conference, which starts at 9 AM on December 3rd at the Faculty of Education Auditorium located at the Pedagogical University on ul. Ingardena 4. All festival events are free!Qwww.sfogatofestival.com. Admission free. 16.11 SUNDAY YIRUMA 36-year-old South Korean composer and pianist Yiruma does what could arguably be called contemporary classical music, but his style is not so simple to classify. He studied in King’s College London, breaking into the European market - now his concerts regularly sell out.QA/B-7, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www. makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 125-195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 20.11 THURSDAY SLASH The tophat-sporting, big-hair Slash could easily be a cartoon character, and his impressive career does warrant an eccentric look. This is Slash of Guns N’ Roses and Velvet Revolver, Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee - and now he’s 24 Kraków In Your Pocket

Culture & Events pursuing a solo career. His latest album, World on Fire, came out in September.QL-2, Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 190-220zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). 20.11 THURSDAY YAMATO Following on from their last successful trip, this famous collection of Japanese drummers are visiting Poland once again to give another series of concerts. The programme involves... well... lots of drumming, mixed in with traditional string instruments such as koto, chappa, shino-bue and samisen. But it’s not just about the music - the energy and humour of the musicians means there’s never a dull moment and the choreography and acrobatics add extra spice.QA/B-7, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 135-195zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

7XGOSPEL FESTIVAL 9-19 OCTOBER 2014

PROGRAM: 7 concerts and meetings 7 gospel music workshops TICKETS: at the door of the events or at Paganini bookstore (ul. Batorego 19)

7XGOSPEL 09.10 THURSDAY - 19.10 SUNDAY 7XGOSPEL Although Gospel music has its roots firmly in African-American Christianity and the struggle for emancipation and equal rights, over the last few decades its appeal has spread all over the world and the genre has entered the mainstream of music. This festival began 15 years ago in 1999 with the successful inaugural meeting, and the Gospel Workshop hasn’t looked back since. Along the way it inspired many to form new bands and groups, changing its name in 2003 to the ‘Gospel Music Week’. In 2006 the title was changed again to the 7xGospel Festival to reflect the diverse nature of the events which then, and now, include lectures, seminars, jam sessions, films, concerts and workshops. Qwww.7xgospel. com.pl. Concerts 10-30zł. Workshops 25-200zł. Available before the concerts. Here’s this year’s programme:

EXHIBITIONS 16.10 THURSDAY - 09.11 SUNDAY ZBIGNIEW JAN KRYGOWSKI Zbigniew Jan Krygowski was born one hundred years ago in Błażowa near Rzeszów. He was a painter and sculptor many of his wood carvings can be seen in churches of the region. He did not stay put, though; Zbigniew also exhibited his works at the Salon des indépendants in Paris, among other places. See his colorful watercolors and oil paintings at the Kraków Palace of Art.QB-2, Palace of the Arts, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palac-sztuki. krakow.pl. Open 08:15 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł.

FESTIVALS 28.09 SUNDAY - 23.11 SUNDAY KRAKÓW JAZZ AUTUMN Air is crisp, leaves are orange, jazz ties up the autumn scene like a pumpkin-scented ribbon... Kraków loves jazz, and jazz festivals are plentiful here. This fall, you can listen to Pat Thomas, The Ex & Brass Unbound, Cactus Truck, Kaze, and other artists - check the website for the full programme. Qwww.kjj-festiwal.pl. Tickets 0-80zł. Festival pass 150260zł. 04.10 SATURDAY - 12.10 SUNDAY KRAKÓW THEATRICAL REMINISCENCES This theatre festival goes beyond the usual theatrical forms - performances take on the shape of anything from a court trial to Christian mass to staged lecture. This year there will be two themes: politics of performance and performance of politics. The crisis in Ukraine will be in the spotlight, with Ukrainian and Russian groups performing politically charged plays.Qwww.krt-festival.pl. Tickets 5-40zł. Available at the website and before the event. krakow.inyourpocket.com

More information: www.7xgospel.com.pl 09.10 THURSDAY - 12.10 SUNDAY GRECHUTA FESTIVAL With his catchy spoken lyrics, roaring drinking habit and rumoured schizophrenia, Marek Grechuta was the embodiment of tortured genius. His place in Polish music history is cast in stone - think of this guy as the Polish Bob Dylan - and so it’s of little surprise that a festival dedicated exclusively to the sung poetry musician has sprung up in Kraków.Qwww. grechutafestival.pl. Tickets 60-139zł. Available at the website. 19.10 SUNDAY - 09.11 SUNDAY KRAKOWSKIE ZADUSZKI JAZZOWE Krakowskie Zaduszki Jazzowe, aka Kraków Jazz All Souls’ Day. While the religious holiday takes place on November 2nd, this jazz fest will spill over into the adjacent weeks - and good thing too, because jazz is the type of thing that makes increasingly grey fall days bearable, or even pleasant. This year marks the festival’s 60th anniversary, which is a pretty impressive feat. The programme includes the following performances: Nicholas Payton Trio (Oct 19th at Kraków Opera), Jacek Pelc Musical Bridges and Meg Balay (Nov 4th in Wieliczka), and John Abercrombie Trio (Nov 9th at the Kraków Rotunda). Check their website for the full programme.Qwww. krakowskiezaduszkijazzowe.dt.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

WORKSHOPS October 10-12 Men in Black: Gospel for Men October 10-12 Free Your Voice: vocal workshops October 17-19 Gospel Kids: workshop for children aged 6-12 October 17-19 16th Gospel Workshops in Kraków October 13-15 Hands of Worship: vocal workshops October 9, 14, 16 Song Movement Happiness: workshop for seniors October 9, 14, 16 Mama Gospel: workshops for mothers with small children CONCERTS October 09 Glorification Concert (festival inauguration) October 12 Men in Black and Free Your Voice Concert October 14 Gospel Celebration: assortment of gospel choirs October 15 Meeting with an Artist (who will it be? We don’t know!) October 19 Final Concert: all festival guests October 27 - Flash mob in the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall

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Culture & Events KRAKÓW CHAMBER OPERA

Culture & Events FOR THE KIDS

INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR

14.11 FRIDAY - 16.11 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE: THE MAGICAL WORLD OF ICE The latest edition of this popular show arrives in Poland this autumn. As well as being entertained by Mickey and Minnie, audiences will be treated to a whole host of fairy tale classics and have the chance to see the magical story of Anna and Elsa (from Oscar-winning Frozen) for the first time on ice.QL-2, Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, www.alterartshow.pl/en. Tickets 55-120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).

LIVE MUSIC KRAKÓW CHAMBER OPERA The beginnings of the Kraków Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991 although it didn’t find a permanent place it could call home until 2000 during which time they appeared around Poland and the world as guest performers. They have been described by poorly translated critics as “probably the most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team in Poland which appreciates good tone of music, costume and vividness.”QE-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 15-120zł. 22.11 SATURDAY - 23.11 SUNDAY BASTIEN UND BASTIENNE This comic opera is an idyllic love story composed by a twelve-year-old child prodigy who would become one of the best-known composers of all time - good old Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. The work is based on Rousseau’s Le devin du village.QE-5, Kraków Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www.kok.art.pl. Performance starts at 18:00. Tickets 40-120zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire). 30.11 SUNDAY NUTCRACKER AND THE MOUSE KING This musical fable for children and adults is based on the work of Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffmann, which is in turn based on Tchaikovsky’s timeless classic The Nutcracker. The story tells of Mary’s Christmas toy that comes to life and battles the evil Mouse King (hence the title), ending with a journey to a fairytale land. Everyone dances.QE-5, Kraków Chamber Opera, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06, www. kok.art.pl. Performance starts at 18:00. Tickets 50100zł. Available at Kraków Chamber Opera box office (open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire). 26 Kraków In Your Pocket

CHOPIN CONCERTS IN THE LEGENDARY WIERZYNEK RESTAURANT These special events run throughout the year. They are recitals by gifted members of the Kraków Music Academy, many of whom are laureates from international piano contests. The programme is as varied as you like, approaching the great man’s work from a number of perspectives. A must for all fans.QC-3, Wierzynek, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. Concerts start everyday at 19:00. From November Wed-Sun. Tickets 60/40zł, VIP 220zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 - 18:00) and before the concerts. CLASSICAL AND FILM MUSIC AT ST. PETER & PAUL’S CHURCH A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Paul’s. The event begins at 20.00 every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday and one can expect to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and film music all performed by the The Orchestra of the City of Cracow.QC-4, St. Peter & Paul’s Church, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 - 18:00) and before the concerts. CRACOW KLEZMER CONCERTS AT THE ISAAC SYNAGOGUE An artistic attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of Kazimierz, these concerts are performed by the Tempero. Consisting of professional musicians, all graduates of the Cracow Music University, not only are they skilled at Klezmer and other Jewish music, they have a modern approach to chamber music. All taking place at the Isaac Synagogue, one of the best preserved and largest synagogues in the country, at present used by Hassidic Chabad Lubavith Community.QE-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture.pl. Concerts take place every Tue, Thu and Sun at 18:00. Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 18:00) and before the concerts. krakow.inyourpocket.com

EXPO Kraków in heart of Europe International Exhibition and Convention Centre

23.10 THURSDAY - 26.10 SUNDAY INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR What types of attractions would one expect in a UNESCO City of Literature, such as Kraków? Lots of used book stores, and a huge international book fair, surely. This October, book worms will unite at Kraków’s EXPO center over an extensive selection of written material and meetings with writers.QEXPO Kraków, ul. Galicyjska 9 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 644 59 32, www.ksiazka.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 7/5zł, kids under 7 free. 4-day pass 17zł. KRAKOW FOLK SHOW So you’ve seen the castle, strolled through the Main Square, eaten yourself into a pierogi coma - but something seems missing? All you need is a little Polish folk to wrap your experience up. Head over to Tradycyja Restaurant to see the most popular Polish folk dances like oberek, mazurek, polonaise, kujawiak, and krakowiak (we’re in Kraków, after all!) and enjoy the beautiful traditional costumes.QC-3, Tradycyja Restaurant, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www.newculture. pl. Performance starts every Wed, Fri and Sat at 19:00. From November Wed and Sat only. Tickets 60zł. Tickets with dinner included 120zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 - 18:00) and before the concerts.

Kraków, Poland Galicyjska Str.

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OPERA 09.10 THURSDAY OPERA RARA: LES BORÉADES Les Boréades (The Descendants of Boreas) is a five-act work by French Baroque composer Jean-Philippe Rameau. The opera’s alternate name is Abaris, as it is indeed a loose retelling of the Greek legend of Abaris the Hyperborean, a healer and priest of Apollo.QB-4, Kraków Philharmonic , ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, www.operarara.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-180zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and InfoKraków (ul. św. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00 - 19:00, from November open 10:00 - 18:00). facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

See our upcoming events:

www.expokrakow.com October - November 2014

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Restaurants

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled S Take away

X Smoking room available

V Home delivery

E Live music

I Fireplace

W Wi-fi connection

AMERICAN

For or pa pasta sta,, wine win annd foot ootie on the h tele, head to InV InViito (p (p.42 .42).).

With the development of the market in Krakow the number of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the city’s culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres. While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. SPLURGE Wierzynek (Polish) remains the king of Kraków - the city’s oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek. The sophisticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (International) is also bankable for your best meal while in town, or if you’re looking for something a bit more modern, Szara (International), with locales on both the market square and in Kazimierz, never disappoints. CHEAP A traditional Polish milk bar (see p.50) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere with a menu in your life. For something Polish 28 Kraków In Your Pocket

with a pinch of atmosphere try Smakołyki. If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche - Kraków’s Mexican eatery - is excellent and super affordable. LADS Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for pauper prices in local breweries CK Browar or Stara Zajezdnia (see Breweries, p.60), or try Sukiennice Kompania Kuflowa (Polish) where you can watch whoever’s walking the runway of Kraków’s Rynek while clinking steins, and the bathroom features a vomitorium for those who over-consume. FAMILIES Mamy Cafe (see Cafes) was designed specifically to give parents travelling with small children a bit of a reprieve, while Pod Wawelem (Polish) has a huge rumpus room for kids and food that they’ll eat. COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make a reservation in ZaKładka (French), Destino, Guliwer (both Mediterranean), Pod Nosem (Polish) or Aqua e Vino (Italian). SPECIAL DIET For vegans and vegetarians the street of choice is ul. Krupnicza (A-2), where you’ll find Karma (see Cafes) and Pod Norenami. For traditional Polish food that’s assuredly gluten-free, head to Pod Baranem. krakow.inyourpocket.com

NEW BOBBY BURGER Given Kraków’s current burger craze, we’ve been polishing off quite a few patties lately, but we won’t complain if they’re all as good as the ones in Bobby Burger. This outfit keeps it fairly simple with fresh, delicious buns, natural, all-beef patties and a range of relishes that includes hot chilli and guacamole. You can double-down on the beef quotient and it’s still affordable, and the sight of free Heinz ketchup packets on the bar is comforting. Wash it down with a gourmet soda or Czech beer and you’re good to go. Note that they will soon be opening from 08:00 for breakfast as well.QD-1, ul. Św. Tomasza 31, tel. (+48) 883 21 29 11, www.bobbyburger.pl. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. (1030zł). 6GSW GRANDE GRILL Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant balances modern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has long been regarded as one of the best in town, and the stylish indoor dining area only enhances it. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly madeto-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-115zł). TUGBSW HARD ROCK CAFE The international Hard Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the city’s most hallowed ground next to St. Mary’s Basilica. Inside you’ll find an absurdly large number of staff members milling around amongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton John’s spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once wore.QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www. hardrock.com/krakow. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (33-115zł). TUGBW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

La Fontaine

Full Center – Old Town The best of the french cusine Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64 www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl [email protected] October - November 2014

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Restaurants DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania zupa przystawki dania główne dodatki ziemniaki kapusta ser chleb warzywa owoce mięso kurczak wieprzowina wołowina ryba deser ciasto lody napoje kawa piwo

breakfast soup appetisers main dishes side dishes potatoes cabbage cheese bread vegetables fruit meat chicken pork beef fish dessert cake ice cream drinks coffee beer

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 30 Kraków In Your Pocket

MOABURGER Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries and a drink coming in over 30zł. Still, this is Kraków’s most popular burger joint.QD-3, ul. Mikołajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 44, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-28zł). T6GSW MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior that looks more designed for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of options from salmon to shrimp, but where’s the beef? In the delicious burgers, of which there are 16 variations, including chicken and vegetarian substitutes; patties are thin and oblong, as are the buns, so that when cut in half you actually have what would pass for two burgers in most places. Choice steaks and other beef cuts are also offered, and the prevailingly realistic prices and random music playlist make this place a lot less pretentious than it first appears, and one we’ll be coming back to.QD-3, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoosteak.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (18-75zł). UGSW WELL DONE With “B.B.Q. & Whisky” emblazoned above the door, this corner bar and restaurant has the hallmarks of American cuisine (ranch dressing, corndogs, buffalo wings, corn on the cob and more), but it seems a trip to the Deep South is still required to really understand what American BBQ is all about. Well Done is more of a steak and burger joint, and they do that as well as anyone, with great homemade fries on the side. The menu also includes pancakes with maple syrup all day long for only 10zł, and a dessert list of large chocolatechip cookies, brownies and carrot cake. The casual, retrocool, pastel interior with touches of Warhol and Lichtenstein, plus the stellar soundtrack of early rock, soul and doo-wop, also make this a certifiably hip place to hang out and slurp the cheapest Jack & Cokes (9zł!) in Kraków. Maybe not the back-home barbecue place we long for, but Well Done indeed; we’ll be back.QD-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel. (+48) 607 13 20 01. Open 09:30 - 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (5-60zł). T6GSW

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Restaurants

Restaurants ASIAN TAO BY ZEN One of the most intriguing locales in Podgórze, this trendy Japanese and Thai bistro is smart and stylish, stopping just short of being too sophisticated for its own good. The emphasis is on teppanyaki - dishes quickly conjured on the gorgeous bamboo-trimmed griddle in the centre of the room, while other design features include a fireplace, balsa wood lampshades and the loungy year-round garden that makes Tao work as an evening drink destination as well. The knowledgeable menu features standards such as edamame, dim sum, pad thai and tempura, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Ramen Burger.QJ-4, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (5-150zł). 6UVGSW ZEN RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kraków’s sushi boom is in full stride, and Zen outdoes much of the competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead-on with a first floor sushi canal where customers snare their desired servings as they float by; dishes are colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your inflating tab. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes like duck marinated in orange and cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. Stop in weekdays 12:00 - 17:00 for their 69zł all-you-can-eat lunch.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30-300zł). 6UVGSW

BRITISH THE DORSZ BRITISH FISH & CHIPS Breaking the hearts of their devoted fans in Łódź, this chippy has skipped town and set up shop in Kraków. Run by a born and bred Brit who knows his way around the fryer, these fish and chips pass muster, and the mushy peas are not only generously portioned, but perfect. In addition to cod (dorsz in Polish), the menu features fish pies, prawns and more. With ample seating downstairs and open very late indeed, we expect The Dorsz to become the new goto for late night nosh in the Old Town as well as watching your favorite British sports teams over beer or vodka. See ya there, mate.QB-3, ul. Św. Anny 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 21 91, www.thedorsz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. (10-40zł). T6UGSW

FRENCH BRASSERIE SZTUKA Located in a former cinema and unassuming from the outside, this appealing international offing exudes class and charm once you’ve stepped inside, and the refreshingly clear and diverse menu encourages fami32 Kraków In Your Pocket

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lies, tourists and all-comers to do just that. As the listed dishes flit between French and Polish (passing burgers and pasta along the way), vegetarian, gluten-free, and local specialties are clearly marked, kids get their own section, and there are also 3-course 20zł specials offered Mon-Fri from 11:30 - 17:00. Believe it or not, they even make their own candies, and the cocktails are top-notch.QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 23. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (28-52zł). TEGB SW LA FONTAINE The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the interior has a pleasing elegance as well when there’s a gale outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns out such wonderful dishes as tournedos with potato casserole and a bearnaise, wine, or roquefort sauce. QC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www. lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-65zł). XW ZAKŁADKA - FOOD & WINE Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka footbridge in Podgórze, this thoroughly classy French bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices to make it outrageously popular. Stud chef Rafał Targosz’s menu includes octopus, oxtail, snails, mussels, chicken liver mousse, lamb tripe meatballs, veal tongue and other exotic delicacies (as well as savoury sandwiches and less daring dishes) at absolutely pedestrian prices when one considers the skill of their preparation and presentation. A perfect date destination, from the moment you step inside Zakładka seemingly everything from the sharp black and white interior to the excellent food and wine (the owner even has his own vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation now. QJ-4, ul. Józefińska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www. zakladkabistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2143zł). UGBSW

INDIAN INDUS TANDOOR Following a freshening-up the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Indus’s interior look sharper than ever, but it’s the spacious new summer garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when the weather’s warm. The near constant line of people filing in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the business lunch specials for a fantastic value.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www. indus.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (1339zł). GSW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

Restaurant in the style of a French bistro BRASSERIE SZTUKA phone + 48 12 422 59 23 [email protected] /brasseriesztuka October - November 2014

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Restaurants

Restaurants ANDROMEDA This large, modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly space-themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy Hotel it’s located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the best bit of style you’ll find in Andromeda will be on your plate, as the kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic presentation. Try the chef’s ever-changing specialties (recently ‘lamb chops with artichokes and corn puree’), while enjoying views of the Wisła and Kotlarski bridge.QK-3, ul. Gęsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel. pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (39-59zł). UEGW APERITIF This city-centre bargain features a bright, modern interior with window seating on Mały Rynek and garden dining in the back during the summer. While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the sunny Mediterranean, the 9-25zł lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isn’t above simple favourites like cheeseburgers and club sandwiches. That said, the affordable dinner menu doesn’t lack for creative muscle, and the wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is an all round delight.QC-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33, www.aperitif. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-70zł). T6UX SW

INTERNATIONAL AMADEUS Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the classic żurek soup - few places do it better - before moving on to more notable nosh like the venison that will have you wondering how such simple flavours can be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has been grandfathered into Kraków’s restaurant scene, and offers the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozart’s flatwared face.QD-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69zł). UG

COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (180zł), 7 (240zł) or 12 courses (350zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget. QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TGSW

THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, [email protected] Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

DYNIA RESTO BAR Ultra-stylish, with an interior design that incorporates lots of bright colours and circular patterns, but the best spots in the house are in the large seasonal garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant life and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. As for food, the excellent menu has an Italian tilt, and covers all the bases, including some solid breakfast options, a page of pumpkin dishes, and a range of low-cal meals for those tired of popping out of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect the staff to look rather nice as well. Recommended.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (14-49zł). T6UGSW LA BICICLETTA Endeavouring to be a meeting place for dining and cycling culture, La Biciletta favours elegance over urbanism, aiming for the spandex set, rather than the hipsters with rolled-up trouser legs who are in no short supply locally. With framed jerseys on the walls and the peloton on the tube, this is probably one of the few places in Kazimierz that you can walk into in your full skin-tight cycling kit and not get a few giggles, though you’ll note it’s more attuned to tourists with a pension upstairs and an info desk out front. Regardless, the chef outdoes himself serving up fine Polish and European food at fair prices. Pretty much everything on the menu is delicious, the desserts are todie-for, and there’s a lush garden out back.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 14, www.labicicletta.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (10-35zł). TGSW

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OGIEŃ A fine, modern restaurant worthy of the four-star Qubus Hotel that harbours it, Ogień (‘Fire’ in English) features an exquisite menu full of diverse, but superlative dishes, ranging from Angus sirloin steak to Georgian-style tenderloin, and there’s even an ever-changing section of seasonal creations by the chef. If you spend the night here, the morning breakfast spread is more than you could ever anticipate, and in summer you can enjoy the terrace views of the Wisła River.QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 51 95, www.qubushotel. com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-83zł). TUGW PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, we’ll admit we initially disapproved of this project, but we never imagined it would be pulled off with this much elan. Adapted to its surroundings while subtly outclassing them, Plac Nowy 1 features a lovely modern interior full of natural light and plant life. With plenty of space, patrons have their choice between the high-ceilinged main dining room, sidewalk tables, covered patio, or mezzanine, and there’s even bowling in the basement. The menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably now the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QD-6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (23-59zł). TUGBSW October - November 2014

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Restaurants LATE NIGHT EATS

Scandale Royal

When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has you covered. Though you’ll find kebab stands all over popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska and ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the 24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all over town (see Polish Snacks & Shots). Perhaps Poland’s most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ and the best place to get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. KIELBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food institution for the last twenty years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood.QE-4, ul. Grzegórzecka (Hala Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. SCANDALE ROYAL This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.QB2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www. scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (8-23zł). UXSW ZAPIECEK EKSPRES Join legions of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served with no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from behind a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a quintessential Kraków experience there are few better places to come. Open all night, it’s cheaper than a kebab and a much better value when everything else is closed.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 24hrs. (9-14zł). GSW 36 Kraków In Your Pocket

RESTAURACJA GREEN Here’s a healthy eating establishment for people that really pay attention to what they put in their bodies (even on holiday). The extensive, bilingual menu offers simple, healthy, hearty meals - everything from breakfast to baked casseroles, wholegrain pizzas and pasta to veal cutlets and fresh fish. Vegetarian dishes are clearly marked, calorie counters will find each dish enumerated, and hangover victims can get a shot of vitamins by ordering a healthy cocktail. Grab a fresh, ready-made salad for only 9.90zł, or dine in their large spacious interior beneath a lovely timber ceiling.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 422 29 29, www.restauracja-green.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (11-54zł). TGSW RESTAURACJA UNICUS This elegant, upscale restaurant offers an enticing range of predominantly Polish dishes in the atmospheric cellars below the Unicus Hotel. To whet your appetite, among the treats populating the excellent value menu is ‘medallions of beef tenderloin with dried, smoked plums, cauliflower, hazelnuts and shallot chutney.’ Polish cuisine doesn’t get more polished than this, and the fine place settings and historic environs only heighten the experience.QC-2, ul. Św. Marka 20 (Unicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www. hotelunicus.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00. (46-75zł). GW SCANDALE ROYAL Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale. pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (24-79zł). TUXSW STUDIO QULINARNE Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned it into one of Kraków’s most elegant dining destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang between fine table settings with refreshingly mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining area. The air of exclusivity is diffused by a children’s corner, wall-length windows opening onto the street in fair weather, and the summer garden full of greenery and futons - one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the venison, but the entire experience.QE-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). 6UEGSW krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

4* Qubus Hotel Krakow invites you to our restaurant “Ogien”, located on the side of the Vistula River, near the historic Kazimierz district. The elegant and air-conditioned place can accommodate up to 140 people. For those who love good food waits new SUMMER GRILL MENU. The proposals feature delicious dishes prepared by National Champions of Barbecue 2014 in a professional smokehouse over a wood fire. Try unique and rewarded cuisine of our masters, grilled desserts and feel the taste of exceptional BBQ marinades, which at the prestigious Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue been rewarded as the best in the world. Come and try something really extraordinary!

Restaurant „OGIEŃ” in the Qubus Hotel Kraków **** Ul. Nadwiślańska 6 Reservation: +48 12 374 51 00 38 Kraków In Your Pocket

Restaurants SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Choose from dishes like ‘Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce’ in what has come to be known as one of the cornerstones of Kraków’s culinary scene. The separate, more modern and casual bar just next door is a smart morning breakfast destination (served 08:00-12:00) and cocktail bar by night, plus in summer there’s plenty of outdoor seating. If you’re in Kazimierz, try their second venue at ul. Szeroka 39 (E-6).QC-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www. szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (34-85zł). UGSW SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly. What makes it so special is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful. All of Kraków should be like this.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-67zł). GSW TRADYCYJA Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. Enjoy a live folk music and dance performance every Weds, Fri and Sat from 19:00.QC-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (2259zł). TUEGBSW TRUFLA This cosy place on Plac Szczepański sets itself apart by offering great food at the right price. A simple, predominantly white decor with wooden furniture allows you to relax while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open kitchen lets you in on the ‘creative’ cooking process and the year-round garden - with its small Japanese-style garden - is one of the most gorgeous you’ll find around. With limited tables inside and out, plus Trufla’s loyal band of followers, reservations might be wise.QC-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). 6GSW krakow.inyourpocket.com

VEGETARIAN MOMO A cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even kimchee. Popular with leftleaning schoolteachers, the wacky backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smiling, Momo’s prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy and worth coming back for. Try the excellent spicy sambar soup and don’t forget to smother your food with their coveted peanut sauce.QD-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (1220zł). 6UGS NOVA KROVA Cleverly combining two current trends that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and burgers - Nova Krova inverts the beef trend with burger patties made of bulgar, beans, tofu, quinoa, falafel, seitan and other inventive meatless options, piled high with exciting toppings and lathered with unique sauces. In addition to the cornucopia of healthy ingredients, you get an unprecedented amount of control over your order - basically ‘build your own’ burger with whatever you want, including your choice of bun (even gluten-free!). The drinks list is no less creative, with obscure beers, homemade ginger- and lemonade, even coffee with soy milk, and as you might expect the hipster quotient here is exceptionally high - almost as high as our opinion of the place.QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04, www.novakrova.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (9-18zł). 6UNGSW POD NORENAMI Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu (too long if we’re honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a true vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have got people packing this place out and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch (much unlike other Asian eateries). Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QB-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). TGSW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

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Restaurants

Classy budget dining, right in the centre. Cracow In Your Pocket, 2013

Restaurants

Pizza, pasta e magia

TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less aweinspiring, balancing the modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www. likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95zł). 6UGSW VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and you’ll be happily commiting to the eco-craze once you see the menu tantalising Italian and Polish fusion dishes like ‘beef tenderloin with figapple jam, roast potatoes, caramelised asparagus and cabbage.’ Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Thurs - Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons. QH-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (39-59zł). TUEGSW 40 Kraków In Your Pocket

ul. Szewska 10, Kraków tel. +48 12 426 41 27 www.boscaiola.eu

ISRAELI

ITALIAN

HAMSA In a district whose dining establishments still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. Breakfast is served until 13:00, and in summer this restaurant expands to ul. Miodowa 41 with a beautiful garden. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (3050zł). T6EGBSW

AMARONE Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (49-65zł). T6UEGW

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AQUA E VINO Still as exciting as the day it opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour combinations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any ‘must visit’ list you may be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri 13:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink for only 35zł.QB-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:45. (24-69zł). GSW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Marmolada. No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. The relaxed white (go figure) interior leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display.QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www.biancaristorante.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-50zł). GBW BOSCAIOLA With pedigree and another winning design job from the team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full of wine bottles and wirebrushed brick and stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and pastas, but there’s no skimping on the quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the centre.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-63zł). TUGSW October - November 2014

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Restaurants INVITO PIZZA & PASTA The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and affordable food (two-course meals for as little as 14.90zł). The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen quickly. With cute students on the orders, football on the large teles, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, there’s really nothing to disagree with here. QD-3, ul. Św.Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www. invitopizza.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35zł). TUVGSW

Italian restaurant in the center of Cracow. ul. Szpitalna 20-22, Kraków tel. +48 (12) 429 68 50 fax: +48 (12) 432 22 56 [email protected] www.leonardo.com.pl www.facebook.com/RestauracjaLeonardo Opening hours: 12:00 - 23:00

LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining environment in Kraków; in winter, retreat to the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried and true team behind Miód Malina and Wesele - two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and risotto are as good as you’d expect.QC-4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (16-52zł). TEGSW NEW LA GRANDE MAMMA Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling restaurants in town, the team behind Miód Malina and Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and mussels, or more casual meetings consecrated with delicious pizzas and pasta. In addition to outstanding food and service, interior design is another of their fortes, and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles employed here give a fresh finish to their successfully established style. Acute attention is paid to every detail here, and the payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.QB-3, Rynek Głowny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.lagrandemamma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). TGSW LEONARDO An elegant spiral staircase descends past a glass waterfall to reveal a series of tastefully decorated dining rooms - one showcasing Da Vinci’s scientific sketches, another stocked with pickle jars and ham hocks. Using premium ingredients the kitchen staff create some of the best Italian meals in the region, including a superb venison with wine-rosemary sauce and mushroom ravioli. With a stellar wine list and entrees that appeal to both the eye and palate, this is a highly romantic spot for couples, while a private, country-style room may be reserved by larger groups.QD3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 429 68 50, www.leonardo. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-79zł). TUGSW 42 Kraków In Your Pocket

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THE OBWARZANEK Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people on the go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially become bird-food vendors.

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Restaurants MEXICAN ALEBRICHE In a town that should be admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily has almost nothing in common with its competition, and here’s the simple difference: it’s actually owned and operated by a local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult following since its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into ecstasy with its simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with spicy soups, tamales, proper chicken mole and more in between. In addition to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in town where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright, colourful interior full of photos and folk art confirms that the focus is on food - so good you’ll be coming back until you’ve tried everything on the menu. Recommended.QA-1, ul. Karmelicka 56, tel. (+48) 510 55 02 11, www.restauracjalebriche. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (13-50zł). UGSW

“Ci voglio ritornare!” massi1960 by

“Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten a better pizza.” Tadeusz Płatek by

MAMMA MIA Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, this is some of the best pizza in town. The choice of numerous home-made pastas and other Italian standards, however, proves Mamma Mia is more than just a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mia’s venerated reputation, even luring them in for breakfast (served 08:00-12:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh pancakes, paninis, pastries, omelettes and more.QB-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43zł). TUGS MARCELLO You’ll find this Italian eatery on Kraków’s market square, occupying a tastefully decorated basement space that features a classic blue and white striped design motif and weathered wooden tables that essentially make you feel like you’re on a Tuscan picnic, albeit in a medieval cellar. Somehow it works and the old photos of Italian screen starlets that adorn the walls add that sexy touch of class that we fondly remember Sophia Loren for. Choose from all the hearty Italian staples, in addition to dishes like ‘papardelle with salsiccia & mushrooms in creamy truffle sauce’ and an expansive selection of Italian wines.QC-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30 08, www.restauracjamarcello.pl. Open 10:30 - 23:00. (22-76zł). TVGSW 44 Kraków In Your Pocket

ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków Phone +48 12 430 04 92 www.mammamia.net.pl English and Italian menu available.

MEDITERRANEAN DESTINO One of the Old Town’s most impressive establishments, Destino is a professional effort all around - from the interior, to the menu, to the staff, to the kitchen, and then back to your table. The spacious, Provencal interior of white timber furnishings, soft lighting and soothing jazz is not only relaxing, but positively uplifting, and the exquisitely curated Mediterranean menu is full of fresh seafood, risotto and paella, including a baked sea bream we can heartily recommend. The perfect place to prove you have good taste, enter with your special someone, open a bottle of sparkling wine, and you’ll both leave glowing.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 04 90, www.restauracjadestino.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-55zł). TUGSW GULIWER CAFE & RESTAURANT With white textured walls, a timbered ceiling, pleasant atmosphere and soothing music, this quiet, sun-splashed cafe/ bistro is perfect for breakfast and perusing the day’s papers while enjoying the street scene through the wall-length windows. Bring a date in the evening, but you might be wise to reserve a table, as they’re usually full of couples holding hands across the table, splitting a carafe and enjoying the delicious Mediterranean-inspired menu of one of the Old Town’s most charming wine and dine destinations.QC-3, ul. Bracka 6, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 66, www.guliwer-restauracja.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (17-49zł). 6GSW krakow.inyourpocket.com

JEWISH ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports emanating from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than disappointing we’ve met more than a number of people extolling the virtues of Ariel’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged to listen to it.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (1978zł). 6EXSW DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.dawnotemu. nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. (21-49zł). 6UEGS

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Polish Food Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost uniformly off-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar in town. Smacznego! BIGOS Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

PIEROGI Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city. PLACKI These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

GOŁĄBKI

SMALEC

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal, or offer it as a side dish.

GOLONKA Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. © Zakwitnij!pl Ejdzej & Iric

KIEŁBASA Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Head to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski at Plac Targowy (E-4, see Late Night Eats, p. 37) to get a taste of Kraków’s most famous kiełbasa, however. Two old-timers have been grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand. NALEŚNIKI The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment. 46 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZAPIEKANKA The ultimate Cracovian drunk food. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll get half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless addons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10zł it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. ZUPA SOUP Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian ‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served with potatoes tossed in, with minipierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ - in which case it comes simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Polish

Restaurants

Restaurant

Traditional Polish food in modern form

Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00 XO6ãDZNRZVND.UDNyZWHOZZZF]HUZRQHNRUDOHHX

POLISH CZERWONE KORALE This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and welcoming in the Old Town. The simple, but charming folk decor favours colour over clutter: cheerful chandeliers wrapped in wicker wreaths wound with bright ribbons and beads give the dining rooms a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation that we were hardly expecting. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value (particularly during their 14 zł lunch deals MonFri 12:00 - 16:00).QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. Open 09:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (15-45zł). GSW DOBRA KASZA NASZA Considering the simple concept, and the fact that it’s discreetly tucked off a corridor full of noisy music clubs, this is a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant, featuring a beautiful timber ceiling and modern art on the walls. While some familiar Polish standards share the menu, train your attention to the first page for an introduction to Polish ‘kasza’ - that is, groats or hot cereal. Choose from buckwheat with bacon, plums and garlic sauce, or millet with pumpkin, turkey 48 Kraków In Your Pocket

and horseradish sauce. A tasty, filling meal on the market square for under 20zł? Hard to believe and even harder to beat.QB-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel. (+48) 534 99 83 06, www.dobrakaszanasza.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (16-30zł). TUGSW HAWEŁKA Kraków’s moved on, but Hawełka hasn’t. If you want to experience the Kraków of olde, this enduring, achingly formal holdover is the place to do it, just like Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and numerous Austro-Hungarian Archdukes before them did at one time. The menu is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional Polish game and fish dishes served without interruption or reinvention since 1876, and the dining room is a very green (popular colour in those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th century with a reproduction of Jan Matejko’s massive ‘Prussian Homage’ looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inauthentic thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution.QC-3, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł). 6BXSW JAREMA This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings. Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about serving large platters of steak with quail eggs, pheasant krakow.inyourpocket.com

and wild boar (to name a few), as live folk music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar hearkening back to the old days, this is not your classic tourist trap. In fact, we heartily recommend it.QD-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). T6UIVEGSW KOGEL MOGEL Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes you in its elegance without any ‘comrade’ kitsch. The menu has gone full Galician and offers out-of-towners the chance to take home a much better impression of the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried trout is outstanding and the large summer garden and experienced staff also make this a good place for groups and dinner events.QC-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-48zł). TEGSW MARMOLADA While Kraków’s super-saturated restaurant market has seen plenty of tankings of late, the team behind the ever-popular and duly praised Miód Malina continues to expand. Sister eatery Marmolada offers delicious local Małopolska delicacies, perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettas to create their unique combination of a comfortable local atmosphere and low prices with great food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the city’s most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave with a bill that less than half the size.QC-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49 46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54zł). TUG SW MIÓD I WINO (HONEY & WINE) Champion dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled as high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits of armour. All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and you’ll need to explain clearly how you expect your meat to be cooked; but the flair of the service, quality of the food and fondness of the folk musicians playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere that’s completely worth being in. A viewing terrace on the first floor adds to the experience. QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www. miodiwino.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). UEX SW MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) Consistently excellent meals have seen Miód Malina establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

WE INVITE YOU TO OUR SUMMER GARDEN

Kraków, Plac Matejki 5 phone: +48 12 429 36 69 [email protected] www.jarema.pl Open Mon- Sun 12-23 October - November 2014

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Restaurants Floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin Guide 2013 did) but essential.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60zł). TUGSW MISS GOLONKO Squeeze into this lively cellar packed full of hungry patrons beneath vaulted ceilings for a bit of Polish food tourism. ‘Golonka,’ known in English as pork knuckle, is essentially a hacked off pig ankle, and in Miss Golonko this succulent local delicacy is served 10 ways, all including bread and dips, for only 20zł each. The menu also features a variety of other Polski standards, plus steaks and burgers. With surprisingly good service and a lively beer hall atmosphere (beer is an essential part of eating golonka), this is hardly the most striking interior on the market square, but you’ll be hardpressed to beat the prices.QC-3, Rynek Główny 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 16, www.missgolonko.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (17-44zł). T6GSW

MILK BARS A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in today’s tourist-laden Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’ in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country. Poland’s first milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants were nationalised by PL’s communist authorities, milk bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in 50 Kraków In Your Pocket

fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. BAR KAZIMIERZ QD-7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 45. Open 06:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (38zł). NGS POD TEMIDĄ The easiest to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-16zł). UNGS krakow.inyourpocket.com

MORSKIE OKO Morskie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so there’s plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits bursting out of traditional costume and regular live bands making a racket. The food is caveman in style - delicious hunks of grilled animals - but it has a dedicated following.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). TIEGSW POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most classic and undeniably charming cellar restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with medieval Polish cuisine. As you enter you find yourself immersed in a cavernous, candlelit, almost monastic haven that is incredibly cosy, warm and engaging considering that in some of its historic 13th century dining areas you are a full two levels below the city’s ‘path of Kings.’ Two beech wood-fired grills allow you to watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. A beautiful courtyard garden stays open year round, and the extensive menu includes massive meals for up to 35 people, and nearly everything imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). 6GBSW POD BARANEM An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Kraków in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy dining environment. Serving Polish standards including cream of wild mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features more meat than you’ll facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

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Restaurants POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. The menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods that Go With Vodka’ and typically includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa, pierogi, pickles and tartare. Much like a late night milk bar with a liquor license, the bars listed below are a great place to meet the city’s strangest characters. AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad. They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great together and for 12zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. Presumably after trouble with the neighbours, the primary ‘Herring Embassy’ now closes at midnight, but the all-night shenanigans that once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 10:00 06:00); there’s also a tiny second location (‘Mały Śledź’) in Kazimierz at ul. Bożego Ciała 11 (D-6, open 16:00 - 02:00, Thu 16:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00; Sun 10:00 - 02:00).QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. NGW PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and trendy formula: offer 4zł drinks and a small 8zł menu of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right? Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun destinations any time of day or night, and for making vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Also at ul. Szewska 20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 24hrs. NGW

52 Kraków In Your Pocket

krakow.inyourpocket.com

find at a livestock market, with deer and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shredded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce left us more than satisfied, but the true standout was the complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread - maybe the best we’ve tasted in Kraków. For those stricken with food allergies, this is one of the only places in town to offer gluten-free meals, to which their menu dedicates a page.QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (23-100zł). TUXS NEW POD NOSEM An extremely elegant upscale dining experience on Kraków’s oldest street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name translates) of Wawel Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit yours upon entry. This establishment using the sous vide method to create modern Polish cuisine, and the very curt menu changes daily to offer a select three starters and three main courses - guinea fowl, goose gizzards and oxtail dumplings among them during our visit. As a result everything is fresh and served fast. The interior has some fine and creative touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating, gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose profile pay tribute to the name. The prices are almost as rich as the food, but certainly worth the unforgettable experience.QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 376 00 14. Open 07:30 - 22:00. (12-69zł). UGBW

Królewska restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków.

POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) Excellent Polish cuisine served under the spacious glass atrium of the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, todie-for desserts, and the offerings of the extensive wine cellar, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high for Kraków, but then so are the standards. QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69zł). TUEGW POD WAWELEM The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge portions of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts of veg, cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from over-consumption to hock their recently imbibed pork hocks.QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (20-40zł). TUEGBS facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

Royal Old Polish Cuisine in a medieval atmosphere of Krakow on the „King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. Traditional old recipes and charred beech wood grill.

ul. Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. +48 12 / 421 39 99, tel./fax +48 12 / 430 21 13 www.podaniolami.pl

October - November 2014

53

Restaurants

Restaurants

BEST PLACE TO EAT

Recommendation

What a hearty introduction to Polish quisine! Stuart Forster, British Guild of travel writers

POLAKOWSKI The definitive local dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave. Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 10 (C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in shopping malls M1 (Al. Pokoju 67) and Galeria Bronowice (ul. Stawowa 61).QD-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421 07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (922zł). GS RESTAURACJA W HOTELU FRANCUSKIM Dingy, unfinished walls contrast with the olde-world, overthe-top service of white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything at your table, even preparing some of it in front of you (like the laborious mincing of the steak tartare), all while a pianist tickles ivories in the corner. As such, you’ll get a real kick out of dining here, and the set three-course ‘Espresso Lunch’ (served 12:00-16:00) is a fantastic opportunity to experience Francuski’s high society inter-war elegance for a shocking 20zł (35zł on Sundays, when it includes a glass of wine). We love it.QC-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 786 85 47 77, www.hotel-francuski.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (32-72zł). TUGSW 54 Kraków In Your Pocket

Recomendation

ul. Sienna 12, Kraków Phone 12 426 49 68 www.kogel-mogel.pl

SMAKOŁYKI An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro has it all, from great coffee and tasty Polish microbrews to simple, delicious Polish cuisine, all served inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that even features a mezzanine, piano and nifty wall art made from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and if you know how hard it can be to find a seat with a wall plug and wifi that actually works in Kraków, you’ll also discover that Smakołyki is a great place to work.QB-3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www. smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). T6EGSW NEW SUKIENNICE KOMPANIA KUFLOWA After disastrous beginnings, the fully renovated Cloth Hall has been saved by Kompania Kuflowa (Beer Stein Company). Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously, just split one) and daily promotions - including litre beers for only 9zł on Mondays(!), the range of local specialties, low prices and postcard location of this Austro-Hungary-inspired restaurant make it a tourist magnet. Less beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem, enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall Tower in warm weather, krakow.inyourpocket.com

“Heaven! Fantastic food, excellent wine, great service. In one word: PERFECT!” Maria - London

or the surprisingly intimate pre-war interior, all while stuffing yourself silly at some of the lowest prices on the market square.QB-3, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennice-kompaniakuflowa. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-56zł). TGSW WENTZL In the upstairs of a 15th century building on Kraków’s market square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl restaurant itself can trace its history back to the 18th century. Swapping dusty oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowing curtains and pastel colours, the interior is bright, full of energy and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We were happy with the updated culinary sense too: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like ‘Masurian crayfish stew’ and ‘duck stuffed with nuts on gingerbread’. The flavours are wonderful and match the views.QC-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 429 52 99, www.restauracjawentzl.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (50-120zł). TUGSW WESELE This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommendations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name ‘wesele’ refers to the facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

Kraków ul. Grodzka 5 tel. +48 12 396 49 46 www.marmoladarestauracja.pl

lengthy celebration of family, food, love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish wedding service, and if this place weren’t full of tourists all the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think you’d actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also. QC-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www. weselerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65zł). TUEGSW WIERZYNEK Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and incredible timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle, and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (28-220zł). TEBXSW October - November 2014

55

Cafés

Cafés MAMY CAFE The name not only refers to mothers, but literally translates to ‘we have a cafe’ - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city centre sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate parents with young children. The simple decor creates an ‘at-home’ atmosphere and helpful amenities include high chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus diapers and wet wipes behind the bar. Kids have their own special menu, plenty of toys and games, and in summer the outside garden literally doubles the play space; there’s even a trampoline! Wifi-enabled so you can combine business with childcare (if you have to), there’s really nothing they haven’t thought of to make the job of being a parent easier. Take a break and take advantage.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 65, www.mamycafe.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. TUGSW

Polish Pol Po i h Ar ish Art Nou ouveaau au innteriors at the histor toric ric Noworo rolsk lskki Cafe Cafe

CAFE MŁYNEK For many years the best cafe south of ulica Józefa (before ul. Mostowa and Podgórze began to develop), Cafe Młynek is a great escape from the bustle and buggery of Plac Nowy - particularly when the sunny outdoor seating on Plac Wolnica is open - while still retaining everything we love about Kazimierz. The artsy atmosphere includes an adjoining gallery and occasional live concerts. Młynek is also one of only a half dozen establishments in Kraków serving strictly vegan eats, including homemade hummus. Recommended.QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, www.cafemlynek.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. T6EGBSW CAMELOT Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolours pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot cabaret. Recommended all around.QC-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. 6NGSW

Not listed here? Find it online: krakow.inyourpocket.com 56 Kraków In Your Pocket

JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed a bit since then and still features loads of original artwork from the fin-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. There’s also a full menu of Polish food and regular folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.QD-2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T6UEXSW KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma’s coffee is fair trade and made with one of the best espresso machines in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set. Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of vegan and gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan lunch specials that will make you feel great about what you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying. With a full breakfast menu to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a weekend location with a large seasonal garden in Kazimierz at ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 9/2 (D-7, open Thu-Sun 10:00 - 16:00 only).QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84, www.karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. T6GSW krakow.inyourpocket.com

MASSOLIT BAKERY After over a decade in the book business, Massolit (Kraków’s legendary American bookstore) has expanded around the corner to indulge more directly their other passion: baking. Drop by to enjoy fresh brewed coffee, bagels, strawberryrhubarb pie, chocolate peanut butter cakes, and other American-style delights - all baked on-site daily. The space is small, with half given over to the ovens (in front of which the owners can be seen hard at work), and features a long bar before wall-length windows - an ideal spot for reading the paper, digging into some quiche, and enjoying the Simon & Garfunkel and Neil Young tunes on the radio.QA-4, ul. Smoleńsk 17. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. GS NOWOROLSKI This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has certainly seen the city’s highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as the place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business was taken away by the communist authorities, only to be returned in 1991. Things have changed little since then, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer are among the most decadent in town and well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 71, www.noworolski.com. pl. Open 08:30 - 02:00. GBSW SŁODKI WIERZYNEK This classy cafe and shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime real estate on the Rynek while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes, chocolate concoctions, candies, caramels and more - all of which you can order online, or take home with you in snazzy gift-boxes that make the perfect gift for even the most discerning and aesthetically-obsessed of sweet tooths. QC-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 36, www. slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. GBSW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

BREAKFAST

ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI One of the best places in Kraków to start your day is also the same place you ended it. This modest addendum to the legendary Alchemia bar has one of the most enticing breakfast menus in town, including chorizo hashbrowns, eggs benedict, eggs florentine and delicious American pancakes, and coffee, juice or water is included in the price (sorry tea drinkers).QD-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni. com. Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 13:00. (8-17zł). 6UGSW BAGELMAMA Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, with a range of different toppings and cream cheeses, drip coffee, wraps, homemade soups and more - served all day, naturally. QE-6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, www. bagelmama.com. Breakfast served 09:00 - 18:30. (720zł). T6GSW CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO Early risers won’t find any better place in the Old Town than Charlotte, which offers great coffee, fresh bread, pastries, a variety of breakfast sets and a wonderful atmosphere all day. Full of natural light from wall-length windows overlooking Plac Szczepański this is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of you.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Breakfast served 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). 6GSW MOMENT It’s Sunday brunch every day in Moment where breakfast is served until 16:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English, Polish, French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best bargains in town at 13-19zł, including free refills of coffee or tea.QE-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. Breakfast served 09:00 - 16:00. (13-19zł). TUGBSW SCANDALE ROYAL Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast buffet, or order a la carte from two pages of exciting breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and a solid English breakfast. If you consider breakfast a proper meal, head here.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Breakfast served 07:30 - 13:00. (11-27zł). USW October - November 2014

57

Nightlife

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

N Credit cards not accepted

6 Animal friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating X Smoking room available S Take away

E Live music

V Home delivery

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS

T Sc Try S and andale ale l Royal fo f r styl styli tyllish tyl i h cockt is ckt k ail ails, s, lat l e nighht tapa apass (p.3 (p.3 p.37) 7 an 7) and even morning-after breakfast (p. (p.57) 57) 7)..

If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in the guide. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. COCKTAILS Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, without the laddish antics or dodginess should try Stalowe Magnolie (Live Music) or Burlesque - discerning clubs that keep it classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience. Baroque and Diva also offer excellent cocktails in an upscale atmosphere, with dancing downstairs. 58 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków these days, so there’s no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Enjoy taking your tipples in Tap House, Multi Qlti or Viva La Pinta and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob. STUDENTS Not your most discriminating demographic, students will go anywhere there’s cheap drinks - join them in any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (see p.52). Those who like to dress up and dance, meanwhile, head to Frantic, Cien and Diva. LADS Irish Pub Pod Papugami and Irish M’Bassy - where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try the local institution known as Cien. Alternatively, head to T.E.A. Time (Breweries) for a taste of home, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and foreign ales at House Of Beer. COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should go wine tasting in Bottiglieria 1881 (Wine Bars), snuggle in a cosy loft at Święta Krowa, converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia (Kazimierz) or stay home and listen to Barry White. ALTERNATIVE Take your tight pants and non-prescription specs to Forum Przestrzenie, your photography portfolio to Pauza, your long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe, your unfinished novel to Dym, your anarchist tract to Kolektyw Dajwór (Kazimierz), and your self-destructive side to Klub Piękny Pies (Kazimierz). krakow.inyourpocket.com

ANTYCAFE As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a ‘hipster haven’, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these days, we wouldn’t want to do this eclectic establishment that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends of this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll find an array of candlelit nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art, great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a quaint café, and with a great beer selection and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the Old Town, you’ve all the more reason to occupy a table. If you can find a free one, that is.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNBXW BAROQUE Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently among the best in the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the Polish Spring Punch or put your head down and do your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Kraków’s mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroque’s still looks the best and comes in positively huge portions. After years of being a premier cocktail bar and restaurant, they’ve gone and jumped into the dance scene, keeping the signature Baroque style in the downstairs weekend club space.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. BXW BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER) Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkier’s inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligible table service that can’t be circumnavigated.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. UBXW facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

October - November 2014

59

Nightlife

Nightlife

The Best

Guinness

in Poland!!!

Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest

BREWERIES C.K. BROWAR On top of being Kraków’s oldest microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit for a Viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the downside being that what could be an elegant, even sophisticated, beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads’ bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QB-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25 05, www. ckbrowar.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. XW STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) Abandoned for decades, this old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden, but the impressive main hall - which features the city’s longest bar - is too impractical to open except for special events 60 Kraków In Your Pocket

Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

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