Kitchen Guide - Time-Life Foods of the World

TIME-LIFE BOOKS

FOODS OF THE WORLD

EDITOR

SERIES EDITOR: Richard L. Williams

Maitland A. Edey

EDITORIAL STAFF FOR THE KITCHEN GUIDE:

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR

Associate Editor: James Wyckoff Designer: Albert Sherman Assistant Designer: Robert Pellegrini Chief Researcher: Helen Fennell Researchers: Penny Grist, Helen M. Hinkle,

Sheldon Cotler

Helen Isaacs, Diana Sweeney

CHIEF OF RESEARCH

Beatrice T. Dobie

Test Kitchen Chef) ohn W. Clancy Test Kitchen Staff: Fili Bergman,Joel Levy,

PICTURE EDITOR

Leola Spencer

Jerry Korn TEXT DIRECTOR

Martin Mann

Robert G. Mason

Assistant Text Directors:

EDITORIAL PRODUCTION

Harold C. Field, Ogden Tanner

Color Director: Robert L. Young Assistant: James). Cox Copy Staff: Marian Gordon Goldman,

Assistant Art Director: Arnold C. Holeywell Assistant Chief of Research: Martha Turner

Rosalind Stubenberg, Florence Keith PUBLISHER

Rhett Austell

General Manager: Joseph C. Hazen Jr. Circulation Director: Joan D. Manley Marketing Director: Carter Smith Business Manager:John D. McSweeney Publishing Board: Nicholas Benton,

Picture Department: Dolores A. Littles Traffic: Arthur A. Goldberger, Douglas B. Graham Art Assistant: John Woods

Louis Bronzo,James Wendell Forbes The following individuals and departments of Time Inc. gave Library of Congress catalogue card

valuable aid in the preparation of this book: the Chief of the

number 68-11546.

Time Inc. Bureau of Editorial Reference, Peter Draz; the Chief

Published simultaneously in Canada.

of the T IME- LIFE News Service, Richard M. Clurman.

cover and pages 5, 6Credits and Acknowledgments: Consulting Editor, Michael Field. Photographs: pages 9, 13, Charles Meek; Richard 51, 48-49, 47, 45, 42, 41, pages 10-11, 12, Richard Jeffery;

7, 8,

except the drawing on page 15, by Phillips; page 46, Mark Kauffman. All drawings by Otto van Eersel, are indebted to The Bridge Matt Greene. Text written by Margaret Elliott and Diana Walton. The editors Dairy Council, Chicago, Company, New York City, for the use of kitchen equipment, and to the National Spice Trade Associa­ American the Illinois; Chicago, Board, Meat and Stock Live Illinois; the National and research material. tion, New York City; and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, for illustration

:Foods ofthe "World

itchen CJuide BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS

/

TIME-LIFE BOOKS, NEW YORK

Introduction You can enj oy reading the entire FooDs WoRLD series without ever stirring from your armchair to stir a pot. But you will enjoy it much more i f you put the books -or at least their companion recipe book­ lets-to work i n the kitchen. The individual volumes o f the series, the recipe booklets and this Kitchen Guide all assume the same thing about your kitchen : that it is not j ust the " drudge center" of your home, a place where three meals a day must be gotten over with, but a room to be creative in, a place i n which to find the satis­ faction of personal accompli shment. I n cooking there is always something new to be learned, whether from the French, the Chinese, or a cuisine closer to home. When properly performed, cooking-in which any­ body can be part arti st, part scienti st-en­ gages all the senses, and i n fact all of oneself. We also assume-whether you already possess many, few or none o f the nearly 1 , 200 cookbooks already available in the U . S .-that you start this series with some enthusiasm for good food and good cook­ ing. What cannot be taken for granted is how much knowledge you start out with. Accord ingly, our recipes have been made as clear and complete as possible. All have been tested in the FooDs OF THE WoRLD kitch­ en. Some are accompanied by step-by-step photographs or drawings, to help guide you OF THE

through procedures that may be complicat­ ed the first time around. This guide i s i ntended as a manual to help the beg i nner, as well as the experienced cook, i n understanding the basic require­ ments of equipment, marketi ng, stori ng food, planning and servi ng meals. It can be used in conj unction with the other books in the FooDs OF THE WoRLD Library (or with any cookbook) as an easy reference in which to look up any basic cooking process, from freezing meat to trussing a chicken. For more detailed i n formation the reader can turn to the books in the L ibrary itself.

-The Editors

© 1%8 Tirnc Inc. All rights reserved.

Gonte nts :

Basic Kitchen Equipment

Selecting and Storing Food

Glossary of Food and Cooking Terms

Carving and Slicing

Meal Planning and Serving

Herbs and Spices

Equivalents and Measures

Cooking utensi l s : construction, preferred materials and a suggested selection of basic types. E ssential tools for mixing and measuring, baking, cutting and chopping, and mi scellaneous kitchen chores.

Page4

A general primer on meat. Detailed i n formation, with diagrams, on beef, veal, lamb and pork. How to choose and store fish, poultry, eggs, milk products, fruits, vegetables, staples, canned goods and frozen food s .

Page 14

T h e most i mportant a n d widely u s e d terms i n cooking, listed alphabetically, along with detailed explanatio n s and illustrations o f techniques that are essential to simple and complicated recipes alike.

Page40

Step-by- step i n structions with detailed d rawings to guide you i n carvi ng and slicing various roasts, a rack of lamb, flank or porterhouse steak, ham, leg of lamb, roast chicken, turkey and a whole fish.

Page 52

How to prepare a meal for your family and for guests. Table settings for a buffet, a formal d i n ner pary and an informal one. How to place silverware, g lasses, plates and the servi ng d i shes.

Page 58

An alphabetical listing o f the major herbs and spices, with an indication o f their strength and quality of their flavor, and some suggestions on how to use them i n the kitchen .

Page 62

Charts li sting U . S . weights and measures, commonly u sed foreign volumes and U.S. equivalents, and a l i st o f weight and volume equivalents for many 1\:.0/lWffi.Qfl foods that change in form during preparatio n .

Page64

CJ3asic Xjjchen equipme nt In selecting kitchen equipment that will save you time, money and frustrati on i t is important to take several points into con­ sideration: how much you cook, how many people you ordi narily cook for, how experi­ enced you are, what kind of kitchen you have now. In this section of the Kitchen Guide,

you will find basic kitchen tools, grouped according to the jobs they do. Some i tems are i ncluded that are not absolutely neces­ sary , but that are especially useful for spe­ cific tasks. The degree of your skill will determine whether you will want to obtain them now, or add them when you have be­ come more expert in the k i tchen.

POTS AND PANS

The most important thing to know when buying any cooking utens il i s how efficient­ ly it cooks. You can ' t really tell by looking at it, but you can get a good idea if you know what it is made of and how i t i s con­ structed. First check its weight, or gauge. A light pan, which heats rapidly, i s useful for mak­ ing sauces or blanching vegetables, but it may be too thin for other kinds of cook­ ing . A heavier pan, which heats more slow­ ly and more evenly , is a better choice for most general cooking. A very heavy pan, although good for long, slow stewing or simmering, may prove too cumbersome for constant use. I t ' s a good idea to ask a salesperson in the store what he knows of the quality of the piece of equipment in which you are i nterested. Also read the man­ ufacturer ' s tag carefully. Check the pan for balance ; i t should not tip w hile standing empty . Find out if the handle is heat resistant. Wooden and plas­ tic handles generally keep cool on top of the stove, but will burn or melt in the oven. (Some enameled cast-iron and g lass-ceramic utensils have removable handles so you may

4

Basic kitchen equipment

use them both way s . ) Try the lid to see that it fits the pot tightly. Consider each pot or pan individually with an eye to the quantities it will hold and how you plan to use it. One large casserole, for i n stance, can be used i n several way s : to roast meat, simmer a stew or make soup-and to serve them at the table. It is usually un sati sfac­ tory to buy a large set of matched pots and pans, pretty as they might look i n your kitchen ; no one material or weight is perfect for all cooking, and while some o f the pots and pans may fit your needs, others will re­ main unused . You will find that some materi als make better cooking utensils for all- around use ; enameled cast iron and alum inum are ex­ amples. But for certain cooking operations, other materials with more specialized qual­ ities can prove i nvaluable-such as g lass­ ceramic ware, which can go directly from the freezer to the oven without cracking. To help you thread your way through the great variety of today ' s cookware, here i s a l i s t of the maj or materials a n d h o w they perform , along with indications of price, ease of cleaning and d urability.

Skillets:

Shape and material are your guides. The straig ht- sided copper pan and the covered aluminum one are for sauteing. The cast-iron pan at right is u sed for fryi ng . The slope- sided aluminum pan is for omelets. The enameled skillet inside it may get the heaviest use of all.

Copper: hand some, very expensive, and an excellent conductor of heat. The copper should be heavy ( at least 1/s inch thick ) with a tin lining . A fter prolonged u se the lining will wear throug h . I t should be reti nned right away ; a toxic chemical reaction may occur if food is left i n a poorly lined cop­ per pot. A store that sells copperware will usually arrange for the retinning. Aluminum: moderately priced, easy to clean, durable and a good cond uctor of heat. Weight i s important ; the thicker the aluminum, the more evenly i t cooks. Me­ dium- and heavy-gauge pans are the best and the longest lasting. The problem with aluminum is that it

tends to d i scolor certain foods. For foods cooked with wine, egg yolks, vinegar or lemon, use a pot or pan made of some other material. Aluminum i s bound to stain somewhat, but these stains usually can be re­ moved by scrubbing with vinegar or by boiling vinegar i n the pan.

Stainless steel: expensive, but easy to clean and d urable if i t is thick. In i tself stainless steel i s a poor conductor of heat ; to over­ come this, most stainless pans have a layer of copper or cast aluminum on the bottom . To be effective, this must be at least 1/s inch thick. O ften this heat-d i stributing layer is hidden between two sheets of stainless steel. Check the rag on the utensil to be sure. Basic kitchen equipment

5

Cast iron: heavy to hand le, but d urable and not expensive. Cast iron heats slowly, evenly and holds the heat welL If not clear­ ly labeled " p reseasoned, ready to use, " cast iron must be seasoned before using or food will stick. To season, wash the pan thor­ oughly with hot water and soap, rin se, rub i t with an unsalted oil and heat i t slowly i n the oven at about 2 5 0 ° F. for at least an hour. To maintain the seasoning, wash the pan with soap, not a detergent, or sim­ ply wipe clean after each u se. Be sure you dry pans thoroughly after washing ; cast iron rusts easily. It also tends to di scolor egg s and food s con taining acid such as wine or vinegar. E nameled cast i ron, though m ore expen­ sive, needs no seasoning, i s easy to clean and will not d i scolor food. Enamelware : this material ranges widely i n price, i s easy to clean but a poor cond uc­ tor o f heat. All enamelware is con structed by fu sing a g lasslike coating or g laze onto

a steel base. The cheaper, lighter enamel­ ware heats quickly but unevenly and food can burn easi ly. The heavier, more expen­ sive variety heats more slowly and evenly but is still subj ect to some scorching. Handle enamelware with care ; i t chips and cracks easily. It should not be sub­ j ected to abrupt changes in temperature. Heavy enamelware is more resi stant to sur­ face damage. Di scard enamelware when the surface begins to deteriorate ; chemical re­ actions may occur between food and sub­ stances in the enamel or undercoati ng .

Glass and earthenware:

m oderately priced and easy to clean, these material s heat un­ evenly but hold heat for a long time. Not all glass and earthenware utensils can be u sed for top-of-the- stove cooking, so check the tag s . Some pieces will crack when used over direct heat. Glass and earthenware are best for oven cooking and serv i ng . Both m u st be handled with care; rapid changes i n tem­ perature will cause cracking or breaki ng .

Saucepans: Size and material are important. The orange one (of enameled cast i ron) is g ood for slow simmeri ng . The aluminum pan s heat evenly and the ivory -colored enamelware h eats rapidly. The heat- resi stant glass pot with cover allows you to watch the food while i t cooks. 6

Basic kitchen equipment

Glass-ceramic: expen sive, heavy to handle, easy to clean, heats unevenly but holds heat well. I t can with stand extreme changes in temperature. Thi s makes i t a good material in which to freeze cooked food and reheat frozen food . Nonstick finishes: these a r e coatings ap­ plied to the cooking surface of convention­ al uten sils. The finish does not change the heat-cond ucting properties of the basic ma­ terial. Food does not stick to the surface. You don ' t need to use grease in cooki ng with these fini shes, except for flavori ng . Plas­ tic spatulas, forks and spoons are sold for use with nonstick surfaces because they do not scratch the finish , but metal uten sils are all right if u sed with care ; small, shallow scratches do not affect the non stick quali­ ties. Wash i n hot soapy water ; do not scour with abrasives. A common problem i s d i s­ coloration, u sually due to overheating or washing with a detergen t ; it does not affect the surface adversely .

WHAT YOU NEED

Double boiler:

1 quart. Each part can be used separately. The set has one cover.

Saucepans: 2 quart, 3 or 3 112 quart, and 5 quart, all w i th covers. Frying pans: one, 6 or 8 inches i n diam­ eter ; one, 10 or 12 inches i n d iameter. Cov­ ers are optional. Sautepan :

10 or 12 inches in diameter with

cover.

Large kettle: Loafpan :

8-10 quarts, with cover.

9 by 5, by 3 i nches deep.

Roasting pan:

17 by 11, by 9 inches deep, with a roasting rack to fit.

Casseroles: one of 3-31/z quart capacity, round, w i th cover ; one of 5 -6 quart ca­ paci ty, oval, with cover.

Casseroles:

Colored enameled cast iron, earthenware, and ovenproof g lass-ceramic and g lass indicate the variety of casseroles in which food can be roasted , stewed , baked or browned . They are as attractive in the dining room as i n the ki tchen, and so are often used for serving.

Basic kitchen equipment

7

MIXING

The tools that you u se to beat, whip, cream, fold, stir, blend-every form of mixing­ are essential. Since there are not a great many i tems, you might j ust as well buy the best quality. You will need the following:

Rotary beater:

for thoroughly beating all sauces, icings, egg s ; a sturd y, medium size with a comfortable handle and a smooth turning motion.

Wire whisk : for beating egg whi tes and whipping heavy cream , stirring sauces and gravies; an 8- or 10- i nch size. You may also want a large balloon- shaped whisk spe­ cifically for egg whites ; it add s more air and i ncreases the volume. Wooden spoons or spatulas: for creami ng, beating and stirring ; 10- or 12 - i nch size, of unvarni shed wood . The spatulas are more convenient for stirring because they can be scraped clean easily on the edge of the mix­ ing bowl ; the spoon s are better for cream­ ing because they move smoothly ag ainst the curved side of the bow l.

Rubber spatula : for folding food s, as well as for cleaning out pans and bow l s ; standard size. As this is one of the most i mportant tools in the k i tchen, you may want several in various sizes. Mixing bowls: for all mtxmg not done over direct heat ; a g raduated set of sizes in stainless steel, glass or pottery . Avoid aluminum bowls; they tend to give egg yolks a grayish cast. Metal spoons: for general mixi ng, stirring and blending ; you should have several i n convenient sizes. MEASURING

Correct measuring requires skill and the proper tools. Unless a recipe specifies other­ wise, use level measurements of both liquid and dry i ngredients. Here i s what you will need :

Measuring spoons: a standard set of 114 tea­ spoon, 112 tea spoon, 1 teaspoon , and 1 table­ spoon ; for measuring both li quid and d ry ingred ients. A second set comes in handy. Glass measuring cups: for measuring liq­ uid s ; 1-cup size and 1-quart size, w i th pour­ ing lip. Metal measuring cups: for measuring d ry ingredients ; a graduated set of 1/4 cup, lJ3 cup, 112 cup, 1 cup. For measuring heat, thermometers give you more certainty i n oven cooking, roasting meats, cand ymaking and deep frying. Only these two are essential:

Oven thermometer: for gauging the de­ gree and uniformity of heat i n a n oven ; either columnar or dial type.

Mixing bowls: Stainless steel and glass do for most j obs ; for beating egg whites, the acid in unlined copper helps them expand. 8

Basic kitchen equipment

Meat thermometer: for measuring the in­ ternal heat of meat and poultry ; e ither round or columnar type. I nsert the spiked end in the deepest part of the meat ; do not let it touch the bone or rest i n fat.

BAKING

Baking is a special kind of cooking and requires its own special equipment. O ne thing is essential : the pan must be the right size. A cake in the wrong pan is a di saster. Fortunately, most recipes speci fy the use of standard sizes, so the problem i s not d i f­ ficult to solve. The following equipment should take you through most simple bak­ i ng and pastry making .

Round cake pans:

8 or 9 i nches in diam­ eter, 1 1/z inches deep.

Springform pan: for cake that i s delicate in texture. The rim can be removed with­ out disturbing the cake. Rectangular cakepan:

Baking sheet: for cookies, bi scuits, me­ ringues ; shiny, sideless ones are easiest to use and they promote light browning. Muffin pan: for cupcakes, muffins, bis­ cuits, tart s ; they come accord ing to cup size-small, medium or large. Rolling pin:

a heavy 1 4 - 1 6-inch size i s best.

Pastry board: for rolli ng and knead i ng doug h ; a 1 4 - by-20- inch hardwood board . Formica and marble are also excellent sur­ faces for worki ng with pastry . Flour sifter: for sifti ng and adding air to flour, and for sifting sugar ; a 5 - cup size with several mesh screens for aeration.

13 by 9, by 2 i nches

slightly larger than the

Pastry blender: for cutti ng i n shortening. Two knives also can be u sed to do this j ob (see "cut in," page 43 ) .

for dessert pies, quiches, recipes calling for a shallow casserole; 9- i nch di­ ameter by 1 1/z inches, either glass or metal.

Pastry brush: for applying liquid s-fat, milk, water-to piecrusts, bread s or any surface you wish to coat evenly ; a medium size with flexi ble but sturdy bri stles.

Baking equipment: You will need a rolling

pin, pastry board , cake pans and a pastry blender

deep.

Wire cooling racks: selected cake pan.

Piepan:

(foreground). Also important are a muffin tin, shown here with a nonstick finish, a glass pie plate, a pastry brush, wire racks for cooling hot cake layers, and at least one baking sheet.

Basic kitchen equipment

9

CUTTING AND CHOPPING

A knife is one of your most important tools. Be sure i t i s well constructed . The extension of the blade seated in the handle of a knife i s called a tang ; i t may go the full length of the handle, or only half way. I n good knives the tang i s held in the han­ dle by rivets, as you can see in the sketch below. This is the most d urable construc­ tion. Some less expensive k nives have a short " rattail" tang secured by friction or cement to the handle. These tend to work loose rather quickly. POINT

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