Jute

A Brief Synopsis of the

JUTE FIBRE

By: Athithi Raman S.Y.B.Tech. (Textiles) Roll no. 2 I.C.T.

INDEX: Sr. No. 1

Topic

Page no.

Introduction

1

2 3 4 5 6 7 7.1. 7.1.1 . 7.1.2 . 7.1.3 . 7.1.4

Formation of Fibre and Extraction Chemical Composition and fibre identification Fibre Structure Major Producers Climate and Soil Applications and markets Composites Geotextiles

1 3 5 6 6 7 7 8

Filters

8

Sorbents

8

Structural Composites

9

7.1.5 7.1.6 7.1.7 7.1.8 7.2. 7.3

Nonstructural Composites Molded Products Packaging Combinations with Other Resources Fibre Matrix Thermoplasticization Fibre–Thermoplastic alloys

9 9 9 10 10 11

7.4 7.5 8. 9.

Fashion Fabric Fancy Bags and Handicrafts Jute Economics References

11 12 13 14

1. Introduction Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres. Jute fibres are composed primarily of cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major component wood fibre). It is thus a ligno-cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially wood. It falls into the bast fibre category (fibre collected from bast or skin of the plant) along with kenaf, industrial hemp, flax (linen), ramie, etc. The industrial term for jute fibre is raw jute. The fibres are off-white to brown, and 1–4 meters (3–12 feet) long. In the trade there are usually two names of jute- White and Tossa. Corchorus capsularis is referred to as White Jute and Corchorus olitorius is referred to as Tossa Jute. Jute is the common name given to the fiber extracted from the stems of plants belonging to the genus Corchorus, family Tiliaceae. Jute is also called locally as “Jew’s Mallow”. Pictures 1 & 2 shows the different varieties of jute fibre. Depending on demand, price and climate, the annual production of jute and allied fibres in the world remains around 3 million tonnes. Sacking and Hessians (Burlap) constitute the bulk of the manufactured products. Sacking is commonly used as packaging material for various agricultural commodities viz., rice, wheat, vegetables, corn, coffee beans etc. Fine Hessian is used as carpet backing and often made into big bags for packaging other fibres viz. cotton and wool. Jute plant is an example of a number of woody-stemmed herbaceous dicotyledons grown in the tropics and subtropics, from the bast of whose stems fibres can be extracted. Most of the plants cultivated for fibre, including jute and ,another plant from jute’s family named kenaf, are grown from seed annually, but a few are grown as perennials.

1. White Jute (Corchorus capsularis)

2. Tossa Jute (Corchorus olitorius)

2. FORMATION OF THE FIBRE AND EXTRACTION Jute fibre develops in the phloem or bast region of the stem of the plants; in transverse sections of the stem. They appear as wedge-shaped bundles of cells intermingled with parenchyma cells and other soft tissue .In the growing part of the stem, a circumferential layer of primary fibres develop from the protophloem,but, as vertical growth ceases in the lower parts, secondary phloem fibres develop as a result of cambial activity. The flowers of jute fibre are cymes which are 1 or 2-flowered, shortly pedunculate yellow, obtuse stamens numerous, somewhat united at the base. In mature plants, which reach a height of 2.5-3.5 m and a basal diameter of about 25 mm, the secondary fibre accounts for about 90% of the total fibre bundles. The plants pass from vegetative to reproductive phase when the day length falls below 12.5 hr. Vertical growth then ceases, and cambial activity declines. The production of cell bundles is much reduced, but, at the same time, the secondary fibre cells begin to mature rapidly. Their walls, which have remained thin during the vegetative period, become thicker, and they increase in weight and strength. Harvesting the plants at the correct time is most important and requires long experience. With jute, the correct time is judged to be when the plants are in the small-pod stage. Harvesting before flowering generally results in lower yields and weaker fibre; and if the seeds are allowed to mature, the fibre becomes harsh and coarse

and difficult to extract from the plant. The plants are harvested by hand with a sickle and cut close to the ground. The cut stems are then tied into bundles, the leaves removed as much as possible, and the bundles submerged in water for retting. This is the process by which the bundles of cells in the outer layers of the stem are separated from the woody core and form non fibrous matter by the removal of pectins and other gummy substances. The action involves water, microorganisms, and enzymes, and takes between 5 and 30 days to completion, depending on the temperature of the water. Constant supervision is required, and the time of removal is critical, because if the degree of retting is insufficient, the fibre cannot easily be stripped from the woody core and may be contaminated with cortical cells; and if retting proceeds too far. The fibre cells themselves may be attacked and weakened by microorganisms. Stripping the fibre from the stem is done by hand, after which the fibres are washed and dried. A difficulty in the retting procedure is that the thicker parts of the stem take longer to ret than the thinner parts do; consequently, if the butt ends of the stem are fully retted, the top ends are overretted and damaged. This can be avoided by stacking the bundles of stems upright with the butt ends in water for a few days before immersing the whole stem; but with fibre intended for export, it is usual to cut off the partly retted butt ends and sell these separately as “cuttings.” Correct retting is an essential first step in the production of good quality fiber. Controlling the quality of water along with improving microorganisms used in the process are the keys to improved fibre quality. A detailed overview of the retting process of jute plant is explained as follows: Retting process: Retting is the bacterial decomposing of natural glues that adhere the bast fibre to the herd. Traditionally, this is accompanied in one of two ways; either dew retting or water retting. With the former, the swath of the stem material, after mechanical harvesting is left for about 4-6 weeks in the fields for dew and rainfall to affect the process; however, prolonged excessively wet conditions can turn retting to rotting. Owing to the vagaries of weather and the need to speed up the process water retting was developed. Here the sheaves of cut plants are immersed, root downwards, into tanks and covered. The water is kept at approximately 35°C and circulated through the mass of material. After retting is completed the sheaves are removed and drained and left to dry in the field termed gassing .When the crop is dried to less than 10% moisture content it can be stored readily for scrutching. It is claimed that water retting produces a more uniform and higher quality fibre. Scutching process: It is a process in which the retted plant is separated or ‘transformed’ into its basic parts: the hurd and the bast fibre. While transforming the plant, the fibres are kept at full length so at the end they can be cut to the length required for further processing (i.e. length needed for paper making, spinning/ weaving, or nonwovens used in composites and geotextiles). Figs. 3 to 9 give a pictorial overview of formation and extraction of jute fibre.

Fig.3: sowing

fig.4 : weeding

fig.5. : retting of jute plant

fig.6: fibre extraction

fig.7: scutching

fig.8: drying of scutched fibre

Fig.9: transportation of raw fibre 3. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION Retted fibres like jute have three principal chemical constituents, namely a-cellulose (fig. 10.), hemicelluloses (fig. 11.) and lignin (fig. 12.). The hemicelluloses consist of polysaccarides of comparatively low molecular weight built up from hexoses, pentoses, and uronic acid residues. In jute, capsularis and olitorius have similar analysis, although small differences occur among different fibre samples. For fibre extracted from jute plants grown in Bangladesh, the range of composition has been given as lignin, 12-14%; a-cellulose, 58-63%; and hemicellulose, 21-24%. In addition, analysis of the hemicellulose isolated from a-cellulose and lignin gives xylan, 812.5%; galactan, 2-4%; glucuronic acid, 3-4%; together with traces of araban and rhamnosan. The insoluble residue of a-cellulose has the composition glucosan, 55-59%; xylan, 1.8-3.0%; glucuronic acid, 0.8-1.2%; together with traces of galactan, araban, mannan, and rhamnosan. All percentages refer to the weight of dry fibre. As well as the three principal constituents, jute contains minor constituents such as fats and waxes, 0.4-0.8 %; inorganic matter, 0.6- 1.2 %; nitrogenous matter, 0.8- 1.5 %; and traces of pigments. In total, these amount to about 2%. The detailed molecular structure of the hemicellulose component is not known with certainty, although in the isolated material the major part is stated to consist of a straight chain of Dxylose residues, with two side-branches of D-xylose residues, whose position and length are

uncertain. In addition, there are other side-branches formed from single residues of 4-0-methyl glucuronic acid, to the extent of one for every seven xylose units. The third major constituent, lignin, is a long-chain substance of high molecular weight which, like the hemicelluloses, varies in composition from one type of vegetable material to another. The molecular chains are built up from comparatively simple organic units which may differ from different sources as well as in the way in which they are combined. Most of the studies in lignin have been concerned with wood; the bast fibers have been rather neglected. It seems unlikely; however, any major differences will exist between jute and wood lignin, but in any case many details of the molecular structure still remain unresolved. Table 1. indicates the Changes in Chemical Composition of Jute at Different Stages of Plant Growth.

fig. 10: a-cellulose [3] fig. 11: Hemicelluloses [3] fig. 12 : Lignin [3]

FIBRE IDENTIFICATION: Jute fibre being a lignocellulosic fibre, when treated with reagents, shows the following microchemical properties: CHEMICAL TESTS

OBSERVATIONS

Fibre + iodine and sulphuric acid

Results in yellow colour

Fibre + dil.chromic acid, to which a little amount of HCl has been added

Results in blue colour

Fibre + chloroiodide of zinc

Results in a yellow colour

Fibre +ferric ferricyanide

Results in deep blue colour owing to the reduction of ferric compound by ligone

Fibre +ammonical solution of copper oxide

Results in considerable swelling of fibre but does not readily dissolve it

Table 1: Changes in Chemical Composition of Jute at Different Stages of Plant Growth.

The lignin can be almost completely removed by chlorination methods in which a soluble chloro-lignin complex is formed, and the hemicelluloses are then dissolved out of the remaining holocellulose by treatment with dilute alkali. The final insoluble residue is the acellulose constituent, which invariably contains traces of sugar residues other than glucose.

4. FIBRE STRUCTURE: The jute fibre refers to the sheath extracted from the plant stems, whereas a single fibre is a cell bundle forming one of the links of the mesh (fig. 4.1). Staple length, as applied to cotton and wool fibres, has no counterpart in the base fibres, and, as a preliminary to spinning, it is necessary to break up the sheaths by a carding process. The fragments so produced are the equivalent of the staple fibres of the cotton and wool industries. In each plant, the rings of fibre cell bundles form a tubular mesh that encases the entire stem from top to bottom. Two layers can usually be distinguished, connected together by lateral fibre bundles, so that the whole sheath is really a lattice in three dimensions. The cell bundles form the links of the mesh, but each link extends only for a few centimeters before it divides or joins up with another link. After extraction from the plant, the fibre sheath forms a flat ribbon in three dimensions.

When a transverse section of a single jute fibre is examined under the microscope, the cell structure is seen clearly. Each cell is roughly polygonal in shape, with a central hole, or lumen, comprising about 10% of the cell area of cross section, as shown in fig. 4.2 .In longitudinal view; it shows the overlapping of the cells along the length of the fibre as shown in fig. 4.3. The cells are firmly attached to one another laterally, and the region at the interface of two cells is termed the middle lamella. Separation of cells can be effected by chemical means, and they are then seen to be threadlike bodies ranging from 0.75 to 5 mm in length, with an average of about 2.3 mm.The cells are some 200 times longer than they are

board, and in common are referred to as terminology are referred to as ultimate cells. A single fibre thus comprises a bundle of ultimates.

fig. 4.1: jute fibre bundles

fig. 4.2:T.S. of jute fibre

fig. 4.3:L.S. of jute fibre

5. MAJOR PRODUCERS: India, Bangladesh, China, Myanmar, Nepal and Thailand are at present the major producers of Jute of which, India, Bangladesh and China are the largest producers. Favourable conditions for jute cultivation are found in the deltas of the great rivers of the tropics and subtropics—the Ganges, the Irrawaddy, the Amazon, and the Yangtze, for example—where irrigation, often by extensive flooding, and alluvial soils combine with long day lengths to provide opportunity for considerable vegetative growth before flowering. Bangladesh remains the world’s principal exporter of this type of fibre, with exports of jute fibre currently running at around 500,000 tons/year. 6. CLIMATE AND SOIL: •

Jute cultivation requires specific climate and land. It requires early rains in March, May and June and intermittent rain and sunlight thereafter till August, temperature between 28°C and 35°C and humidity between 70% and 90%. This type of climate is available in areas between 30° Latitude North and South of the earth. Soils conducive to producing jute are of three types: Loamy soil, clayey soil and Sandy soil fig 6.1. Loamy soil usually produces the best fibre. The clayey soil yields a short crop. Also plants grown on clayey soil do not ret uniformly. The sandy soil produces coarse fibre. The

best varieties of Jute are Bangla Tosha - Corchorus olitorius (Golden shine) and Bangla White - Corchorus capsularis (Whitish Shine), and Mesta or Kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus) is another species with fibre similar to Jute with medium quality.

fig 6.1: (from left) Loamy soil, clayey soil and Sandy soil [3]

7. APPLICATIONS AND MARKETS The large historic markets for jute in sacking, carpet backing, cordage, and textiles have decreased over the years as jute has been replaced by synthetics. Fibre from jute can be used in the handicraft industries, to make textiles, to make paper products, or to produce a wide variety of composites. A great deal of research is presently going on in each of these fields; however, the largest potential markets are in composite products. These composites range from value-added speciality products to very large-volume commercial materials. These markets are potentially larger than the past markets for jute and could lead to new dynamic uses for this and other natural fibres. 7.1. Composites A composite is any combination of two or more resources held together by some type of mastic or matrix. The mastic or matrix can be simple as physical entanglement of fibres to as complex as systems based on thermosetting or thermoplastic-polymer production. The Table 2 shown below gives possible processing pathways that lead to the composite products that can come from each fraction of the plant.

The entire plant (leaves, stock, pith, and roots) can be used directly to produce structural and nonstructural composites. By using the entire plant, processes such as retting, fibre separation, fraction purification, etc. can be eliminated, which increases the total yield of plant material and reduces the costs associated with fraction isolation. Another option is to separate the higher-value long fibre from the other types of shorter fibre and use it in combination with other materials to make value-added structural composites. When the long fibre is separated, the byproduct is a large amount of short fibre and pith material that can be used for such products as sorbents, packing, light-weight composites, and insulation. By utilizing the byproduct of the long fibre isolation process, the overall cost of long-fibre utilization is reduced. The isolated long fibre can then be used to make mats which have value-added applications in filters, geotextiles, packaging, molded composites, and structural and nonstructural composites. Composites can be classified in many ways: by their densities, by their uses, by their manufacturing methods, or other systems. For this report, they will be classified by their uses. Eight different most commercially used classes are: geotextiles, filters, sorbents, structural composites, non-structural composites, molded products, packaging, and combinations with other materials. Within each composite made there are opportunities to

improve the performance of that composite by improving the performance of the fibre going into the composite.

7.1.1. Geotextiles The long bast fibres, like in jute, can be formed into flexible fibre mats, which can be made by physical entanglement, nonwovens needling, or thermoplastic fibre melt matrix technologies. The two most common types are carded and needle-punched mats. In carding, the fibres are combed, mixed, and physically entangled into a felted mat. These mats are usually of high density but can be made at almost any density. A needlepunched mat is produced in a machine which passes a randomly formed machine-made web through a needle board that produces a mat in which the fibres are mechanically entangled. Medium- to high-density fibre mats have several uses. One is as a geotextile. Geotextiles derive their name from geo and textile and, therefore, mean fabrics in associated with the earth. Geotextiles have a large variety of uses. They can be used for mulch around newly planted seedlings as shown in fig. 7.1.1.1.The mats provide the benefits of natural mulch; in addition, controlled- release fertilizers, repellents, insecticides, and herbicides can be added to the mats as needed[7]. The addition of such chemicals could be based on silvicultural prescriptions to ensure seedling survival and early development on planting sites where severe nutritional deficiencies, animal damage, insect attack, and weed problems are anticipated. Research results on the combination of mulch and pesticides in agronomic crops have been promising. Medium-density fibre mats can also be used to replace dirt or sod for grass seeding around new homesites or along highly embankments. Grass or other type of seed can be incorporated in the fibre mat. Jute fibre mats have good moisture retention and promote seed germination. Low- and medium-density fiber mats can be used for soil stabilization around new or existing construction sites. Steep slopes without roots to hold the soil erode and top soil is lost as shown in fig. 7.1.1.2 [14]. Medium- and highdensity fibre mats can also be used below ground in road- and other types of construction as natural separators between different materials as shown in fig 7.1.1.3 in the layering of back fill [7].

Fig. 7.1.1.1

Fig. 7.1.1.2

Fig. 7.1.1.3

7.1.2. Filters Medium- and high-density fibre mats can be used for air filters. The density of the mats can be varied, depending on the size and quantity of material that needs to be filtered and the volume of air required to pass through the filter per unit of time. Air filters can be made to remove particulate and/or can be impregnated or reacted with various chemicals as air freshners or cleansers. Medium- to high-density mats can also be used as filtering aids to take particulates out of waste water and drinking water or solvents.

7.1.3. Sorbents

In several cities in the United States, tests are presently under way to use agro-based sorbents to remove heavy metals, pesticides, and oil from rain water runoff. Medium and high-density mats can also be used for oil-spill clean-up pillows. 7.1.4. Structural Composites A structural composite is defined as one that is required to carry a load in use. In the housing industry, for example, structural composites are used in load-bearing walls, roof systems, subflooring, stairs, framing components, furniture, etc. In most if not all cases, performance requirements for these composites are spelled out in codes and/ or in specifications set forth by local or national agencies. In such purposes, the whole of the jute plant comes of use. Structural composites can range widely in performance from the high-performance materials used in the aerospace industry down to wood-based composites which have lower performance requirements. Among the wood-based composites, performance varies, from that of multilayered plywood and laminted lumber to low-cost particleboard. Structural wood-based composites, intended for indoor use, are usually made with a low-cost adhesive which is not stable to moisture, while exterior-grade composites are made with a thermosetting resin that is higher in cost but stable to moisture. Performance can be improved in wood-based as well as agro-based composites by using chemical modification techniques, fire-retardant and/or decay-control chemicals, etc. 7.1.5. Nonstructural Composites As the name implies, nonstructural composites are not intended to carry a load in use. These can be made from a variety of materials such as thermoplastics, textiles, and wood particles, and are used for such products as doors, windows, furniture gaskets, ceiling tiles, automotive interior parts, molding, etc. These are generally lower in cost than structural composites and are subject to codes and specifications associated with them. 7.1.6. Molded Products The present wood-based-composite industry mainly produces two-dimensional (flat) sheet products. In some cases, these flat sheets are cut into pieces and glued/fastened together to make shaped products such as drawers, boxes, and packaging. Flat sheet wood-fibre composite products are made by making a gravity-formed mat of fibres with an adhesive and then pressing. If the final shape can be produced during the pressing step, then the secondary manufacturing profits can be realized by the primary board producer. Instead of making lowcost flat-sheet-type composites, it is possible to make complexly shaped composites directly using the long bast fibre. In this technology, fibre mats are similar to the ones described for use as geotextiles except, during mat formation, an adhesive is added by dipping or spraying the fibre before mat formation, or it is added as a powder during mat formation [9]. The mat is then shaped and densified by a thermoforming step. Within certain limits, any size, shape, thickness, and density is possible. These molded composites can be used for structural or non-structural applications as well as for packaging, and can be combined with other materials to form new classes of composites. 7.1.7. Packaging “Gunny” bags as shown in fig. 7.1.7. made from jute have been used as sacking for products such as coffee, cocoa, nuts, cereals, dried fruits, and vegetables for many years. While there are still many applications for long fibre for sacking, most of the commodity goods are now shipped in containers that are not made of agro-fibers. But there is no reason why they cannot be. Medium- and high-density agro-based fibre composites can be used for small containers, for example, in the tea industry and for large sea-going containers for commodity goods. These composites can be shaped to suit the product by using the molding technology described previously, or made into low-cost, flat sheets to be made into containers.

Fig. 7.1.7. shows jute sacks used for storage purposes Agro-based fibre composites can also be used in returnable, reusable containers. These containers can range from simple crease-fold types to more solid, even nestable, types. Long agro-fibre fabric and mats can be overlayed with thermoplastic films such as polyethylene or polypropylene to be used to package such products as concrete, foods, chemicals, and fertilizer. Corrosive chemicals require the plastic film to make them more water-resistant and to reduce degradation of the agro-based fibre [3]. There are also many applications for agro-based fibre as paper sheet products for packaging. These vary from simple paper wrappers to corrugated, multifolded, multilayered packaging. 7.1.8. Combinations with Other Resources It is possible to make completely new types of composites by combining different resources. It is possible to combine, blend, or alloy leaf, bast and/or stick fibre with other materials such as glass, metals, plastics, and synthetics to produce new classes of materials. The objective is to combine two or more materials in such a way that a synergism between the components results in a new material that is much better than its individual components. Composites of agro-based fibre and glass fiber can be made by using the glass as a surface material or combined, as a fibre, with lignocellulosic fibre. Composites of this type can have a very high stiffness-to-weight ratio. The long bast fibres can also be used in place of glass fibre in resin injection molding (RIM) or used to replace, or in combination with, glass fiber in resin-transfer-molding (RTM) technologies. Problems of dimensional stability and compatibility with the resin must be addressed, but such composites could also lead to new markets for property-enhanced agro-based materials [10]. Metal films can be overlayed onto smooth, dimensionally stabilized fibre composite surfaces or applied through cold-plasma technology to produce durable coatings. Such products could be used in exterior construction to replace all-aluminum or vinyl siding, in markets where agro-based resources have lost market share. Metal fibres can also be combined with stabilized fibre in a matrix configuration in the same way metal fibers are added to rubber to produce wear-resistant aircraft tires. A metal matrix offers excellent temperature-resistance and improved strength properties, and the ductility of the metal lends toughness to the resulting composite. Application for metal matrix composites could be in the cooler parts of the skin of ultrahigh-speed aircraft. Technology also exists for making molded products: perforated metal plates are embedded in a phenolic-coated fibre mat, which is then pressed into various shaped sections. Bast fibre can also be combined in an inorganic matrix. Such composites are dimensionally and thermally stable, and they can be used as substitutes for asbestos composites. Inorganic bonded bast-fibre composites can also be made with variable densities that can be used for structural applications. (One of the biggest new areas of research in the valueadded area is in combining natural fibres with thermoplastics. Prices for plastics have risen sharply over the past few years, but adding a natural powder or fibre to plastics reduces cost (and in some cases increases performance as well). To the agro-based industry, this represents an increased value for the agro-based component.) [11] 7.2. Fibre Matrix Thermoplasticization There has been much research over the years studying ways to thermoform lignocellulosics.Most of the efforts have concentrated on film formation and thermoplastic

composites. The approach most often taken involves the chemical modification of cellulose, lignin, and the hemicelluloses to recrystallize/modify the cellulose and to thermoplasticize the lignin and hemicellulose matrix in order to mold the entire lignocellulosic resource into films or thermoplastic composites. Jute fibres are composites made up of a rigid polymer (cellulose) in a thermoplastic matrix (lignin and the hemicelluloses). If a nondecrystallizing reaction condition is used, it is possible to modify the lignin and hemicellulose chemically, but not the cellulose. This selective reactivity has been shown to occur if uncatalyzed anhydrides are reacted with wood fibre [2]. 7.3. Fibre–Thermoplastic alloys Research to develop jute fibre-thermoplastic alloys is based on first thermoplasticizing the fibre matrix and then the grafting of the modified fibre with a reactive thermoplastic. In this type of composite, the thermoplastic is bonded onto the lignocellulosic in such a way that there is only one continuous phase in the molecule. This is done by one of two methods. In one case, the matrix is reacted with maleic anhydride, which results in a double bond in the grafted reacted molecule. This can then be used in vinyl-type additions or in free radical polymerization to either build a thermoplastic polymer or graft one onto the lignocellulosic backbone. In the second method, the matrix is reacted first with a bonded chemical and then with a low-molecular-weight thermoplastic that has been grafted with side-chain anhydride groups. These new composites make it possible to explore new applications and new markets in such areas as packaging, furniture, housing, and automotive uses [2]. 7.4. Fashion Fabric Jute a versatile, eco-friendly, recyclable and economical fibre. Jute is also often blended with other fabrics like cotton (called JUCO) that are ideal for clothing, accessories and home furnishing. To reduce the inborn roughness of the basic fibre, the National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology (NIRJAFT), Kolkata, has introduced a unique technology to make jute softer, and more malleable. Jute has now moved up in social circles and creating an interest among the Indian and International designers. Recently, the Ministry of Textiles sponsored an exhibition to highlight the jute products and jute garments. A fashion show highlighted jute as a fashion connoisseurs exporters and traders. The fashion show displayed a wide range of garments for men and women designed for domestic as well as international markets. The fabrics unique texture and fall were appreciated and attracted many individuals, buyers and boutique.Prabha Mohanty, a famous designer has pioneered the use of jute into high fashion garments. She says that, “Jute’s natural golden colour is its main asset”. Besides it has high tensile strength, and can be used to replace other material like polyfibres. Like Prabha Mohanty other designers are picking up the fibre and using it superficially. The designer range for men is suited to meet the most exciting and sophisticated standards of the consumer. Jute is presented in the most natural look for the men. Soft pleats and high waists are in for trousers made of blended jute in muted colours.In order to make sophisticated products like fashion garments, jute needs to be blended with fibres like wool, nylon, rayon, acrylic or polypropylene. These blends enrich the fibre in feel, appearance, durability, resilience and washability. As far the cost factor, jute being one of the cheapest fibres available in India. High profile designers like Ashish Soni and Mumbai's Pawan Aswani have featured jute ensembles on fashion show as at the Lakme India Fashion week 2000 and International Fairs in Dusseldorf, Germany. The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has also participated in many fashion shows in association with the Institute of Jute Technology and 'India's premiere only natural fabrics store', Fab India at Kala Ghoda Mumbai, patronesses jute creation to a large extent.

Figs 7.4.1 show the various applications of jute fabric in fashion apparels [12]

7.5. Fancy Bags and Handicrafts The versatile Jute fibre is now being used to create exciting new products, the most popular one are Hand Bags, Shopping Bags, Luggage Bags, Wallets, Casual Bags and Fashion Bags. Several thousands small units, craftsmen, trades and enterprises are engaged in Manufacturing, Trading and Export business of these beautiful bags. The Jute Service Centres on behalf of National Centre for Jute Diversification helping the small units engaged in the creation of fancy bags. There is a great demand of such fancy bags in western countries. Figs. 7.6.1. to 7.6.3 show various kinds of fancy jute bags successfully marketed in India as well as abroad.

Fig. 7.5.1

fig. 7.5.2

fig.7.5.3

A large number of tiny units especially in rural areas are engaged in creating beautiful handicrafts, novelties and gifts items made of Jute. Being a bio-degradable and renewable nature fibre, Jute Handicrafts and Novelties are in great demand. A Jute Doll, a Painting on wall, a Table Lamp, a gift item made of jute etc. all are free of hazards is a first choice now a days. Jute based handicrafts and novelties vary from toys, table lamp, wall painting, pencil box, and innumerable splendid gift items. They have a huge export potential. Figs. 7.5.4 and 7.5.5 exhibit the handicrafts made from unprocessed jute fibre [13].

Fig.7.6.4: jute Ganesh idol

Fig.7.6.5: jute vases

9. JUTE ECONOMICS: Production of Jute Goods-----Qty in 000' tonnes (India) (April / March) Hessian Sacking

CBC

Others

Total

1996-97

368.7

666.6

25.2

340.4

1400.9

1997-98

392.4

864.6

19.8

401.6

1678.4

1998-99

344.1

903.3

18.5

330.3

1596.2

1999-2000

344.5

909.2

8.0

328.5

1590.2

1999-2000 ( April / Oct )

198.6

501.1

5.8

185.2

890.7

2000-2001 ( April / Oct )

200.6

485.9

3.1

198.4

888.0

Domestic Consumption of Jute Goods (India) (April / March)

Hessian

Sacking

CBC

Others

Total

1996-97

259.8

652.0

1.7

222.5

1136.0

1997-98

285.8

842.4

1.5

257.5

1387.2

1998-99

286.2

886.3

1.3

230.5

1404.3

1999-2000

287.0

907.4

1.4

230.9

1426.7

1999-2000 ( April / Oct )

152.8

462.2

0.7

127.4

743.1

2000-2001 ( April / Oct )

154.5

468.7

1.0

141.7

765.8

Export of Jute Goods ---- Qty:In `000 Tonnes---- Value : Rs./Crores (India) (April / March)

Hessian

Sacking

CBC Others

Total

Total Value

1995 - 96

124.5

7.2

23.2

64.2

219.1

634.82

1996-97

96.3

3.8

18.9

101.9

220.9

702.23

1997-98

98.0

25.0

16.0

111.0

250.0

755.00

1998-99

64.5

11.1

17.3

102.0

194.9

628.92

1999-2000

57.4

5.6

6.3

99.7

169.0

571.53

30.5

3.2

4.1

42.5

80.3

250.69

33.87

8.8

3.0

46.5

92.1

318.06

1999-2000* ( April / Oct ) *

2000-2001 ( April / Oct )

(source:ref 1) REFERENCES

1. About Jute, http://www.worldjute.com/about_jute/abj_index.html (aug,10,2008) 2. Textile Fibres by Prof. V.A.Shenai 3. Retting of jute fibre ,http://www.jmdcindia.com/html/functions.html (aug,10,2008) 4. R.M. Rowell, Handbook on Wood and Cellulosic Materials (D.N.S Hon and N. Shiraishi, Eds.), Marcel Dekker, New York, 1991. 5. R.H.Kirby, Vegetable Fibres, Leonard Hill Books, London, 1963. 6. B.C.Kundu, K. C. Basak, and P.B. Sarkar, Jute in India, Monograph, Indian Central Jute Committee, Calcutta, 1959. 7. Diversification of jute fibre http://www.worldjute.com/diversification/ diversification_geojute_geotex.html (Aug, 10, 2008) 8. http://www.worldjute.com/diversification/diversification_composite_techno. html (Aug, 10, 2008) 9. http://www.worldjute.com/diversification/diversification_composite_techno_3.html (aug,10,2008) 10. R.P. Mukherjee and T. Radhakrishnan, Tex. Progr. , 4, 1, (1972). 11. J.N. Mather, Carding-Jute and Similar Fibers, Iliff, London, 1969. 12. http://www.worldjute.com/diversification/diversification_fashion_fabric.html 13. W.A. Bell, Sci. News, 54, 39 (1960). 14. http://apparel.indiamart.com/annual-report/jute.( Aug, 10, 2008)