Italia Guide to Venice 2015

ITALIA! GUIDE

2015

VEnice & The Veneto

VENICE The Veneto & Beyond

Venice, the Veneto & Beyond 2015 £7.99

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Italia! Guide to Venice 2015 ISBN 978-1-909590-89-2

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Venice is one of Italy’s most beguiling cities. I once met a British artist who was hosting a party celebrating her work in a hotel in Venice. I asked her how long she’d lived there. “I came here for a fortnight”, she replied, “Though that was 30 years ago.” Spend any time in the Floating City and it’s easy to see how you can become enchanted by the place. And this, the latest Italia! Guide is a celebration of what Venice has to offer. Whether you are a newcomer to the city or a seasoned veteran, you’ll find plenty within these 132 pages to bring Venice to life when you next land at Marco Polo airport and treat yourself to a water taxi to the city (expect to negotiate!). Venice is, of course, more than just a city unto itself. It is the capital of Veneto, a region that has plenty else to offer in terms of sights to see, places to visit, and food and drink to enjoy. This Guide brings the entire region to you in all its glory. We explore the mountains on bike, skis and foot; we take you to the magical city of Verona; we wine and dine like the Italians – always in style! Enjoy it with us.

Paul Pettengale Editor

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ITALIA! VENICE & THE VENETO Anthem Publishing Ltd, Suite 6, Piccadilly House, London Road, Bath BA1 6PL % +44 (0) 1225 489986 (editorial) % +44 (0) 1225 489989 (advertising) [email protected] EDITOR Paul Pettengale [email protected] ART EDITOR Andy Saunders [email protected] SUB EDITOR Jon Palmer [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS Chris Allsop, Lorenza Bacino, Rachel Beckwith, Hannah Bellis, Sophie Dingle, Sally Fitzgerald, Liz Harper, Amy Lucinda Jones, Fleur Kinson, Adrian Mourby, Mark Nicholls, Iain Reid, Sara Scarpa, Marina Spironetti, Laura Zavan ADVERTISING SALES EXECUTIVE Laura McLean [email protected]

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IN THIS GUIDE VENICE 8 THE VENETIAN VIEW OF CARNEVALE Iain Reid and Sara Scarpa invite us back stage at the city’s great party. 14 48 HOURS IN VENICE Marina Spironetti spends a weekend discovering La Serenissima. 20 LIDO DI VENEZIA Adrian Mourby escapes the tourists for a more relaxing way of life. 29 VENICE FOR KIDS Liz Harper find plenty for eight-yearold Molly to enjoy in Venice. 36 HOTEL LUNA Sally FitzGerald indulges herself in the city’s oldest hotel. 38  PHOTOGRAPHING VENICE It’s back to work as Sally FitzGerald is sent on a photography course. 43 HIDDEN VENICE Sara Scarpa takes us on a backstreet tour of the city she calls home. 49 VENICE BY BIKE AND BOAT Adrian Mourby goes in search of a new perspective on Venice.

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54 PAST ITALIA! The Palazzo Ducale is the quintessential symbol of Venice.

92 VIEWPOINT The Sacca di Scardovari, a nature lover’s dream on the Po Delta.

56 PROPERTY FOCUS Find out how you can own your share of the Venetian dream.

94 PEDALLING IN THE DOLOMITES Amy Lucinda Jones sees Trentino Alto Adige from the saddle.

59 SECRET VENICE How many of these street scenes and sights can you identify?

98 P  AST ITALIA! The Military Memorial Monument on Monte Grappa.

VENETO & BEYOND

FOOD & DRINK

64 48 HOURS IN VERONA Lorenza Bacino discovers one of the best sightseeing cities in Italy.

102 VENICE CULT RECIPES Laura Zavan draws inspiration from Venetian friends and restaurateurs.

70  F RESH MOUNTAIN AIRS Chris Allsop attends the Sound of the Dolomites music festival

107 DRINK ITALIA! Valpolicella, Prosecco (p.120), Pinot Grigio (p.123) and Soave (p.128).

76 VIEWPOINT The Giardino Botanico Litoraneo di Porto Caleri at Rosolina

110 NOTES FROM CORTINA Sophie Dingle on summer salads, and their rarity in the mountains.

79 TEN BEST SKI RESORTS Fleur Kinson skis through Italia!’s favourites, in Veneto and beyond.

112 E AT LIKE A LOCAL Iain Reid and Sara Scarpa share recommendations for eating out.

87 ALL QUIET ON THE EASTERN FRONT Mark Nicholls discovers a forgotten aspect of World War One history.

126 CHEF’S NOTES Sophie Dingle cooks spaghetti carbonara two ways.

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S Tu ubsc rn rib to e & pa s ge ave 34 !

8 p110 CORTINA D’AMPEZZO

87 p98

MONTE GRAPPA

102 p107 VALPOLICELLA

PALAZZO DUCALE

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT… ➤ On all our restaurant reviews the following symbols indicate the price range of dishes per person: € up to €25 (Great grub on a budget) ●

€26-€50 (Delicious delights but a little heftier on the wallet)

€ ● € ●

€ ● € ● € more than €50 (Gourmet dining ●

for a really big night out)

LIDO

SACCA DI SCARDOVARI

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VENICE A city quite unlike any other, la Serenissima has been capturing the hearts and souls of visitors since the founding of the Church of San Giacomo di Rialto in AD 421…

Images © Iain Reid / Beanotown photography Words © Sara Scarpa

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The Venetian view of Carnevale

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Visitors flock to Carnevale, but what does it mean to a native Venetian? Iain Reid took his camera and his girlfriend, Sara Scarpa, whose family lives in the city, for a taste of Carnival from the Venetian perspective…

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The painter had planned his fake death and resurrection. Obituaries were put

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up around the city and his ‘body’ was taken to Piazza San Marco

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ast night at my parents’ house the phone rang. It was a family friend asking me if Ludovico De Luigi, the famous Venetian painter, and a close friend of my father, had died. My dad overheard the conversation, and my shock, and loudly exclaimed, “No, of course he is not dead!” Of course he wasn’t. I should have known better. This was just another of Ludovico’s provocations, in the atmosphere of Carnevale. “A Carnevale ogni scherzo vale” – at Carnival any joke works well – runs a well known Venetian saying, and the rule is breaking any rule and any convention. The painter had planned his fake death and resurrection. Obituaries had been put up around the city to announce his ‘death’, and his ‘body’ was taken to Piazza San Marco, accompanied by fake nuns, a fake priest and the figure of Death.

Carnevale is all about breaking the rules: it is about freedom, enjoyment and fantasy. Its origins go back a long way – to the end of the 11th century. In centuries gone by, the celebration used to last for many months. Thanks to the mask that everybody (apart from armed people and prostitutes) was allowed to wear, anyone could hide their identity, gender and social class, and behave in complete freedom, criticising nobility and government without worrying about the consequences. Carnevale represented a clever way for the Serenissima to prevent social tensions from arising. Today the carnival is well known all over the world. Around one million visitors come every year to the party that nowadays runs for 11 days. This year, despite the bad weather and the high water, the calli, campi and bridges of Venice were invaded by many thousands of people – so many that once again the street police ➤ ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 11

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➤ still had to direct the traffic, even though there are no cars in town! The city is a magical place in any season but it is even more so in this period of Carnevale, when everything is possible and tradition and frivolity coexist. Getting lost among the calli, you will be drawn into scenarios of wonder and dreams with fantastic creatures at every turn. The procession of the Marie opens officially Carnevale – the twelve most beautiful girls in town are lifted on the shoulders of the gondoliers and taken all the way from San Pietro di Castello to Piazza San Marco. On Sunday, the Flight of the Angel (the descent of a beautiful girl from the campanile to the stage in San Marco square) is always one of the main events.

Carnevale is enriched with many events in different sestieri of Venice, and on the islands. In the Sestiere di Cannaregio, for example, there were food stalls offering galani e frittelle – typical Venetian patisseries for the Carnival – and a spectacular regatta of typical Venetian boats with rowers in masks and costumes took place on the Grand Canal, allowing whoever missed the Regata Storica to enjoy some of the atmosphere, and of that great eternal union between the city and its sea. Colourful confetti and whirls, and charming masks would make anyone stop in wonder. This year, the theme was wonder and fantastic nature and the scenarios of dreams and fantastic creatures populated the city, making it more alive – just like in one of Ludovico De Luigi’s surreal paintings. n!

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The city is even more magical in this period of Carnevale when everything is

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possible and tradition and frivolity coexist

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Clockwise from top left: Most people arrive during Carnival season or in the summer; your preconceptions about what Venice is will be realised; but the Grand Canal is not always so busy; sunset over Venice; gondolas sans tourists; back street; lantern

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48 HOURS IN…

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Venice Follow Marina Spironetti as she heads off to the Venetian Lagoon and discovers some of the authentic pleasures of Italy’s most fairy-tale city…

Photography © Marina Spironetti

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e all seem to have some idea of Venice in our mind even before visiting. Once you arrive, you are able to find what you thought would be there – the streets are indeed full of water and the gondolas float elegantly along the canals. She is little changed from the times when Goethe called her “the market-place of the Morning and the Evening lands” and, should Marco Polo come back from his journeys today, he would be surprised only by the motor boats and a few other signs of modernity. Still, it can sometimes seem as if the place exists only for tourists, offering very little of that “authenticity” that can be sampled in other Italian cities. When one is pushed bemused into gondolas and launched directly into the Grand Canal together with thousands of other visitors, one almost feels like the unaware figurant of an enormous theatre performance. Still, the real city is there, beneath the surface, and it’s well worth seeking out. A QUESTION OF PERSPECTIVES First of all, make sure you choose wisely when to go. Most people show up either during Carnival or in the summer, but Venice is one of those places that is best to be discovered in winter. It has fewer tourists and that melancholic atmosphere that has enchanted poets and artists. It is a seasonal city, and in the coldest months she lays bare, without her make-up on. ➤ ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 15

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO

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BEST COFFEE IN TOWN 1 Torrefazione Marchi, Rio Tera’ San Leonardo 1337 % +39 041 716371 www.torrefazionemarchi.it One of two coffee roasters left in town (and the only one that still sells directly to the public). Real coffee lovers should try the caffè della sposa, made with eight Arabica blends, or the Veneziano (made with coffee, cocoa and milk foam). Also at Cafè della Sposa, Fondamenta Ormesini.

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PRECIOUS VENETIAN FABRICS 2 Antica Tessitura Bevilacqua Santa Croce 1320 % +39 041 721566 www.luigi-bevilacqua.com In the times when the city called herself the Most Serene Republic and ruled over “a quarter and a half” of the ancient Roman Empire, this was also the place where the Orient began – a land of silk, brocades, exotic spices and scents. To catch a glimpse of those long-gone times, marvel at the workshop of the Antica Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, where gorgeous brocades, velvets and damasks are still handmade on original 17th century looms. The tools and the techniques have been handed down from one generation to the other for 300 years and the quality is still the same as was required by the Doges. So close is the similarity to the past that it is very difficult to tell a modern product from one made centuries ago.

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SHOP FOR UNIQUE SOUVENIRS 3 Franco Furlanetto Remi e Forcole San Polo 2768/B % +39 041 520 9544 www.ffurlanetto.com Oars and oar-rests for the traditional Venetian boats, as well as scale models to bring back home. Take a walk to San Polo to see how Signor Franco Furlanetto creates these very special objects. He is one of few remer left – skilled craftsmen specialised in oars and oar-rests – a profession unique to Venice.

The view across the lagoon

DON’T MISS CAFFÈ FLORIAN The legendary Caffè Florian, in Piazza San Marco, is Venice’s most famous, and oldest, café. First opening its doors in 1720 and once the haunt of Lord Byron, it never fails to attract a crowd. Do go inside to see the opulent interior.

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ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE 4 Tragicomica San Polo 2800 % +39 041 721102 www.tragicomica.it Venice is the city of Carnival. Regardless of what time of the year you come to visit, you can still bring a piece of this magic event back home. Tragicomica is one of the city’s bigger mask and costume merchants. Faces stare at you from all directions as you enter the shop and the feeling is almost overwhelming. All the masks are painted by an artist trained at the local Accademia di Belle Arti. 16 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

➤ The most evocative way to get into the city is by train: when the uninspiring flatland of the Pianura Padana suddenly gives way to water, you know you are in for something absolutely unique. Water on both sides; water everywhere. You are crossing the bridge that links Venice to the mainland – 3,000 yards long and supported upon 222 arches. Once you arrive at Santa Lucia station, you must proceed by water or by foot. If you are a first-time visitor, you’ll probably head to San Marco first. Napoleon called it “Europe’s finest drawing room”, and rightly so. The Basilica di San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale are at the eastern end

Up there, far away from the hordes of photographers and all the souvenir sellers, you will be able to see just how compact the shape of Venice is. To the north of you is the majestic backdrop of the Alps, right beyond the Treviso plain; down to the south is the Adriatic Sea; all around you is the Venetian lagoon, sprinkled with little islands. By an interesting paradox of perspectives, you won’t be able to spot a single canal from the campanile – only a horizon of red-tiled rooftops, chimneys, towers, TV aerials, roof gardens… It is not a large city. You can see it all easily, from one end to the other. From up there, all the

By an interesting paradox of perspectives, you won’t spot a single canal from the campanile of the square, while the campanile, the city’s tallest building, stands in the centre of the piazza. Make sure you go all the way to the top of the bell tower – it’s probably the nicest way to understand the modern topography of the city.

overwhelming grandeur is gone. What is left is rather a sense of medieval intimacy. AWAKEN THE SENSES As touristy as it might be, a trip to the Canal Grande, Venice’s central

WHERE TO STAY

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Always take time to look up

Discover some secrets

CIPRIANI 5 Giudecca 10 Fondamenta San Giovanni % +39 041 520 7744 [email protected] www.hotelcipriani.com On the tip of the Giudecca island, the Cipriani is the address to go to do Venice in style: a harbour for your yacht, a private boat, a swimming pool and a personal trainer at your disposal are just a few of the facilities available. Needless to say, this is where you have a higher-thanaverage chance of rubbing shoulders with a film star, especially during the film festival.

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A fish market

artery, is something you cannot omit. Most of the gorgeous palazzi facing the canal were built between the 12th and the 18th centuries. You can either do it on a gondola (as long as you realize it’s going to be budget-breaking), or on a vaporetto,

sottoportico (an alley that passes under a building), you stretch your arms and you can touch both sides of a calle (a Venetian street). Robert Browning was delighted to find one so narrow that he could not open his umbrella. The tiniest is supposed to be the Calle

Few other cities in the world can offer you the same tactile experience as Venice a rounded 230-passenger boat, which in a place like Venice is the equivalent of a public bus. From the moment you board, you realize how the senses seem to be much more alert in this city – the sense of touch, in particular. Few other cities in the world can offer you the same tactile experience. You instinctively hold onto those mushroom-shaped metal things on the boat’s side to balance when the boat abruptly draws alongside the quay. You lean on its bridges, you stroke them. The marble of the bridge of Rialto has been polished by centuries of hands. You have to bend in order to walk through a

Stretta, behind Campo San Polo, which, as its name (Narrow Street) implies, is only 65cm wide. And then, again: you grab the gondolier’s arm, you clutch the bricole, the wooden poles the gondolas are moored to. Your fingers stroke the beautifully sculpted forcole, the oarrests, similar to works of art. They have to be sharpened according to the gondolier’s height and weight – and also by taking into account the way he rows. Being in Venice is a constant tactile experience. SCENT OF A CITY “Like the tide – six hours up and six ➤ hours down” is how a Venetian

DON’T MISS GILBERTO PENZO This is your chance to pick up that miniature gondola you’ve always wanted. Gilberto Penzo is a maker and restorer of wooden model boats. You’ll find him hard at work at Calle Seconda dei Saoneri. www. veniceboats.com

BOSCOLO BELLINI 7 Lista di Spagna 116 % +39 041 524 2488 [email protected] www.boscolobellini.hotelinvenice.com Just a stone’s throw from the Santa Lucia train station, this elegant hotel is ideally located for your Venetian stay – and it won’t break the bank. Recently renovated, it offers classical Venetian-style rooms with a very welcome modern twist. The extremely friendly and helpful staff is the icing on the cake.

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HOTEL MORESCO 8 Sestriere Dorsoduro % +39 041 244 0202 [email protected] www.hotelmorescovenice.com Just a short walk from the train station, it offers a quiet but central location. Rooms are well equipped and beautifully decorated. Excellent breakfast.

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LA VILLEGGIATURA 9 Calle dei Botteri San Polo 1569 % +39 041 524 4673 [email protected] www.lavilleggiatura.it A private house turned into an elegant maison de charme. Six rooms individually furnished with precious textiles and vintage furniture. The rooms on the third floor are pleasantly spacious – a bonus in a city where extra space is a luxury. The two attic-rooms are cosier and perfect for a romantic getaway.

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PALAZZO ABADESSA 6 Calle Priuli Cannaregio 4011 % +39 041 241 3784 [email protected] www.abadessa.com Another luxurious address in a historical palazzo in one of the most charming districts of Venice. 12 impressive rooms, some of which are extremely spacious. Perfect for a romantic getaway.

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WHERE TO EAT

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AL VECIO FRITOLIN 10 Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2262 % +39 041 522 2881 www.veciofritolin.it It used to be an ancient fritolini, a sort of Venetian-style fish and chips place where people could buy a portion of fried fish. Even nowadays the spotlight is on fish – which comes fresh every day from the Rialto market. € Price range ●

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CASA BONITA 11 Cannaregio 492 % +39 041 524 6164 This family-run, no-frills place is filled with Venetians on any given day of the week. The perfect address to sample some of the best specialities of the Lagoon. Another excellent place for fish lovers. € Price range ●

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OSTERIA BANCOGIRO 12 Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122 % +39 041 523 2061 www.osteriabancogiro.it Perfect to drink an ombra at very fair prices. You can stay longer for dinner; the menu changes regularly, according to the season and the freshest ingredients available – try bigoli – local fat spaghetti – with calamari, cardoons and dry tuna eggs or the very traditional fegato alla veneziana – Venetian-style liver with onions. € Price range ●

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TAVERNA DEL CAMPIELLO REMER 13 Campiello del Remer, Cannaregio 5701 % +39 041 522 8789 www.alremer.com This one is little complicated to find – you have to locate the Church of San Grisostomo first, then take the little alley almost opposite it, which will lead you to the hidden square right where the Canal Grande bends. The atmosphere is pleasantly old-style with vintage chandeliers, musical instruments hung on the brick walls and old copper pots hanging down from the wooden beams. Between 5.30 and 7.30pm if you buy a glass of wine you can help yourself to the free buffet as well (anything from bruschetta to big bowls of pasta and risotto). After happy hour, an excellent a la carte restaurant with live music. € ● € Price range ●

Always agree a price before embarking

DON’T MISS SKYLINE BAR If you are looking to splurge on an aperitivo in the city that made elegance an art form, head over to the Skyline Bar in the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice, at Giudecca 810. The feel is casual, the décor stylish, and the view from the ninth floor terrace, overlooking the Grand Canal all the way to Piazza San Marco, is far from ordinary.

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PIZZERIA AI BARI 14 Santa Croce 1175 % +39 041 718900 A place that will not leave you disappointed. Perfect to have a tasty, inexpensive pizza or to sample some of the Venetian specialities. Very friendly service. € Price range ●

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➤ saying describes the allegedly volatile personality of its people. The fluctuations of the tide dramatically change the aspect of the city – from the acqua alta (high water) when a couple of inches of water laps into the lowest parts of the city for a few hours, to the pitiless low tide, revealing all the green, slimy secrets of the canals. For the 1997 Venice Biennale American artist Mark Dion looked into the canals of the city and catalogued his finds, finding anything from light bulbs and used appliances to historically significant fragments of stoneware with Islamic designs. Low tide is occasionally associated with that infamous smell. It might worry the queasy tourist, but it gives the Venetian amateur a sort of reluctant pleasure. Locals have never been particularly bothered. Back in the days of the Republic, they used to burn incense sticks to take away the whiff, but up until the early 1900s even the well-to-do families were reported to regularly bathe in the Canal Grande. VENETIAN-STYLE TAPAS After getting lost in the filigree of the

The gateway to the Orient

city’s small canals, look out for one of those yellow signs pointing you to Rialto and head to the food market there – ideally from Campo San Giacometo to Campiello de le Becarie. The mercato has been a permanent feature since the 11th century. Head there early in the morning, observe the hustle and bustle of vendors and locals, stare at the fishermen running around in their Wellington boots. Start with the vegetables, fruit and herbs stalls, and end with the buzzing fish section. When it comes to food, Venice stands out from the rest of the country with a cuisine that is essentially unique. Together with polenta and rice, fish is one of the basic ingredients of the Venetian diet - particularly baccalà (stockfish) and sarde (sardines). Other local delicacies include oca in onto (goose in its own fat), raw seafood and polpette (meatballs). The different flavours of the city can be sampled in a bacaro, Venice’s answer to a tapas bar. Very few are left – most of those that remain are in the Rialto area. They offer an array of cicchetti, small bites,

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usually displayed on the counter in a tempting way. They can consist of just about anything: boiled eggs, anchovy rolls, crab claws, grilled vegetables, sundried tomatoes, squares of fried polenta and the unmissable sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines in marinated onions, garnished with pine nuts and raisins). Wine usually comes by the glass – Venetians call it un’ombra – a shadow. Drinking places come in all shapes and sizes, from holes in the wall with standing room only to the new and trendier lounge bars. The wine-growing area that stretches from Veneto to Friuli is – after Piedmont and Tuscany – one of Italy’s strongest, with good whites like Tocai and Soave backed up by solid reds such as Valpolicella. Even in the humbler establishments, the house wine is often surprisingly refined – and the Venetians have the reputation of being among the heaviest drinkers of the country! Once your stomach is full, treat yourself to a night-time walk, for that’s the best time of the day to discover Venice. The day-trippers have all left and you will have the city to yourself. n!

GETTING THERE ➤ BY PLANE Marco Polo airport is 13km from the city. EasyJet flies there from Gatwick, Luton, Southend and Manchester. From there you can either take a motoscafo (expensive: calculate some €100) or a shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma, which takes about 30 minutes. Alternatively, fly to Treviso with Ryanair (www.ryanair. com), which is 30km away. There is a regular bus service linking the airport to Venice. Buses from Marco Polo and from Treviso are operated by ATVO – downloadable timetables at www.atvo.it

GETTING AROUND ➤ BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT Public transport in the city means by water, by the canal-cutting vaporetto. The only canals served by this waterbus are the Canal Grande, the Rio Nuovo and the Canale di Cannaregio – for everything else you will have to walk. Gondolas were once used by everybody – now they operate for tourists (and weddings). Before getting on board make sure you agree with the gondolier on where you want to go and how long you expect it to take, in order to avoid arguments at the end of your ride. Official rates start at €80 for a daytime 40-minute tour.

DON’T MISS THE CAMPANILE No trip to Venice is complete without an elevator ride to the top of the San Marco bell tower – the mighty campanile. At just under 100 metres high, on a clear day its majestic position offers breathtaking views of the city and lagoon.

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Laundry hanging between houses

➤ KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES (full meal per person, not including wine) € Up to €25 ● € ● € €26-€50 ● € ● € ● € More than €50 ● ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 19

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Lido di

Photograph © iStock

While the crowds flock to Venice, Adrian Mourby finds a much more relaxing way of life on the Lido, where tourists of the past would stay and spend much of their time, away from the stifling air of the city…

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Above: Cabanas lined up outside the Excelsior Here: Lazzaretto Vecchio, the hospital island turned AustroHungarian fortress

22 ITALIA! ITALIA! September GUIDE:2014 VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

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ou can hear the silence of the Adriatic from up here. It doesn’t so much lap the shores of Lido di Venezia as kiss the sand and withdraw. This morning I woke up very, very early in the Excelsior Hotel. I’d flown in from Boston last night and at 6am I’m aware that my bodyclock is still on Massachusetts time. Unable to sleep, I open the shutters on a scene of almost complete silence. The Adriatic is hardly moving in the grey light of dawn while five floors below six men in shorts are silently raking the beach. Lido is an odd place, an Art Nouveau (or Liberty-style) island that guards the lagoon on which Venice sits. In the 19th century visitors would stay here, where there was sea-bathing and a complete lack of pestilence. They might visit Venice in the afternoon for the churches or in the evening for the casino, but their days, and their nights, were spent on the calm, affluent shores of Lido.

Below I can see the staff of the Excelsior opening up the scores of cabanas for The cabana with its deckchairs which guests pay a daily rental depending on their view of the sea

and tables – and waiter service across the hot afternoon sand – was an essential accessory for a holiday in Venice right up until the 1930s. Down below I can see the staff of the Excelsior opening up the scores of cabanas for which guests will pay a daily rental of €90 to €120 depending on proximity to the hotel and the quality of sea view. My journey from Boston yesterday was nightmarish. Changing planes at Heathrow I found there was an air traffic controllers’ strike that held me up several hours and in Milan where I was supposed to board a train to Venice, there was a taxi strike. But somehow I made it to Piazza San Marco five minutes before the last hotel shuttle left. The voyage across the lagoon was serene and at the Excelsior’s jetty, at the end of a long leafy canal, I was assured that they had already prepared room service. I had texted ahead and asked for what I genuinely believe to be

the best seafood carpaccio in Italy. It didn’t disappoint. And now I have a day on Lido before I get to check of progress with the hotel’s new Presidential Suite. Anyone who knows the extraordinary profile of the Excelsior will be familiar with its magnificent dome, which has been a hollow, theatrical shell since the great Giovanni Sardi designed the hotel in 1908. This year and last a new duplex presidential suite has been under construction within that dome, the biggest suite in Venice. It will be reserved every year reserved for the top stars of Venice’s film festival, an event that started at the Excelsior and still occurs every September on Lido. I’ve come here to see how work is progressing but that won’t be until this afternoon at the earliest, so I have a long morning to fill. I have a pre-breakfast swim, if you can call it that. The beach slopes

The waterside at Alberoni

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Photography © Kate Tadman-Mourby unless otherwise stated

View of the beach from the Excelsior

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WHERE TO STAY ➤ HOTEL EXCELSIOR VENICE Lungomare G. Marconi, 41 % +39 041 526 0201 hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com Located right on Venice Lido beach, the Hotel Excelsior is a masterpiece of Venetian architecture dating back to the early 1900s. An exclusive 5-star Deluxe Resort of Moorish style and recalling a fabulous Venetian Renaissance palace, it is ideal for family holidays, romantic getaways, conferences or special events in Venice.

The Grande Albergo Ausonia and Hungaria

VENICE

➤ GRANDE ALBERGO AUSONIA & HUNGARIA Gran Viale San Maria Elisabetta, 28 % +39 041 242 0060 www.hungaria.it A historic residence with a one-of-a-kind atmosphere with a Thai Spa and wellness center, the Grande Albergo Ausonia and Hungaria is one of the most prestigious 4-star hotels in Lido di Venezia, overlooking the Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, just a few minutes from the dock where the ferries leave for historic downtown Venice. ➤ CA’ DEL BORGO Piazza dell’Erbe, 8 Malamocco % +39 041 770749 www.cadelborgo.com Ca’ del Borgo is a splendid bed and breakfast inside of a 15th century palace, located in the wonderful Venice Lido. It was the residence of Venetian nobles who enjoyed the beautiful location and its mild winter and cool summer climate.

Man with dog at Malamocco

I find myself in a Liberty-style suburb full of tall old houses and slim hotels where I come across the glorious Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria down so gracefully that you need a lot of patience to walk out far enough to get even your knees wet. Now, as in the 1920s, Lido is more about cutting a bella figura on the beach than watersports. The Excelsior has an outdoor pool for those who really want to swim rather than just have a paddle and a pose. My breakfast is conducted surrounded by waiters. Afterwards I borrow a hotel bike to explore the island. Lido is rather neglected these days, like some great-aunt our parents used to visit. We know she is there but the photo-ops of San Marco are more alluring. Time to get properly acquainted. I head north past the convention centre which every September becomes Palazzo del Cinema for the Venice Film Festival. It was built for the fifth festival in 1937 and has a modernist Mussolini touch. The

24 ITALIA! ITALIA! September GUIDE:2014 VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

first festivals were actually held in the Excelsior’s 600-seat cinema but the Palazzo can offer three venues, including a 1,100-seat main cinema from 1953 and, of course, a red carpet. As, Federico Fellini once remarked, “For a film director, entering the Palazzo del Cinema at the Venice Film Festival is like passing a final exam.” Sooner than I expect – in fact only 500 metres north along Lungomare Marconi – I come upon Hotel des Bains where that quintessential Lido film, Death in Venice, was set, written, and partially filmed. What a shame it’s all boarded up at the moment. I hadn’t realised that you have to cross the road to get to the hotel’s beach. When Dirk Bogarde as Von Aschenbach looks wistfully out of his window towards the beach, Lungomare Marconi is just below him, out of shot.

Turning inland, I find myself in a Liberty-style suburb full of tall old houses and slim hotels. At Caffè Tila I stop for a great espresso served by a lovely 85-year-old Venetian lady called ‘Cina. The coffee is perfect and the small garden comfortable but what’s remarkable is the photograph on display of her famous father in the cafe from the 1930s. Behind him is a picture of Mussolini. When she catches me checking this out, ‘Cina explains, “In those days you had to.” Buzzed up on caffeine I’m keen to start pedalling properly. In 2009 cyclists competing in the Giro d’Italia charged down Via Sandro Gallo at speeds of 60 kmh – three times what I’m clocking up so far. But before I get to that long road that gazes back over the lagoon to Venice, I come across the glorious Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria. This hotel is the absolute of Liberty-style Its huge multi-coloured facade is a mosaic masterpiece and the biggest in Italy, if not Europe. It was created

for the newly-opened Hungaria over three years (1913-1916) by the famous ceramicist and sculptor, Luigi Fabris from Bassano del Grappa. This hotel is proof of the affluence of Lido at the beginning of the 20th century. The owners also commissioned the celebrated Milan designer, Eugenio Quarti for its furniture, which was shown at the Salone dell’Arte in Paris before being shipped to Venice. Closed during the First World War, the Hungaria reopened in 1920 and its nightclub, Follies Dancing, became a focal point of the Lido’s racy, golden age. Putting my camera away, I aim for a sprint down the gracious treelined sweep of Lido’s Art Nouveau’s avenues. I bomb down Via Sandro Gallo and then Via Malamocca with the lagoon flashing by on my right, ineffably calm. Today it’s like a large piece of a grey-green glass, dotted with little brick hospital islands that used to serve as artillery platforms in the days when the Austro-Hungarian

Empire owned Venice. Just a lone dredger on its way to work breaks the calm of the water. At Malamocco I turn to the left and enter a small medieval town square. After all that Liberty style this is a complete surprise. Malamocco is where the Venice we know and love began during the reign of Theodatus, the second doge (742-755 AD). Theodatus it was who moved the ducal seat from Eraclea to this low spit of land now known as Lido. It’s remarkable to think that the nascent Venetian empire was run from this little moated city facing into the lagoon until 812, when it decamped to Rialto. There’s a parish church here dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta that dates from the 12th century, and a 15th-century Palazzo del Podestà that displays the Lion of St Mark. I check out the inevitable plaques to Garibaldi and Vittorio Emanuele II and say hello to a small dog whose owner is sitting out on the tiniest ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 25

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A dredger traverses the lagoon

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The stillness of the lagoon contrasts with the busyness of Venice itself

The Excelsior’s restaurant

Kirk Douglas in a photo at the Excelsior

“Piazza Maggiore” I have ever seen, then it’s on to Porto degli Alberoni, the actual entrance to the lagoon, four kilometres south. The village of Alberoni was named after its alberi, trees that local fishermen could see from the Adriatic and so know their way home. They used them to navigate themselves back towards the lagoon. Alberoni has a few cafés and a ferry terminal if you want to island-hop your way to the mainland. Now I turn round and cycle up the Adriatic side of Lido, alongside a crudely-hewn sea wall. It’s clear from the big white rocks piled on this side of the island what a job Lido does in keeping rough seas out of the lagoon. There are little beaches scattered here and there between the rocks with informal shelters made out of driftwood. They get more salubrious the further north you head, but it’s clear this is where the locals swim for free while we’re paying €120 a day for a cabana

26 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

on the Excelsior’s perfect beach. This is not bella figura territory. By lunchtime I’m back at the Excelsior and wander into the hotel bar with its photos of movie stars who attended the film festival in the

INFORMATION ➤ www.venice-tourism.com

GETTING THERE ➤ British Airways (0844 493 0758; www.ba.com) flies twice daily from London Heathrow to Venice and from Gatwick from £91 return. ➤ easyJet (0330 365 5000; www. easyjet.com) offers lights to Venice Marco Polo from London Gatwick, Luton & Southend from £61.98 return (based on two people travelling on the same booking). ➤ Voyages SNCF (0844 848 5 848; www.voyages-sncf.com) offer return rail fares from London to Venice from £216 standard class; price includes the overnight train from Paris to Venice.

On the Adriatic side it’s clear from the big white rocks piled on this side of 1950s. There’s Kirk Douglas with the island what a job Lido does in keeping the sea out of the lagoon his Van Gogh beard, there’s Ingrid Bergman with Roberto Rossellini, and a moustachioed Orson Welles photographed while pretending to write something. There’s also a jolly snap of early paparazzi (from the days before the term was coined). They are sitting on deckchairs in their suits with big happy smiles. Head barman Antonio Micelotta is setting up the bar in his white jacket and happy to talk. He’s been in the business for 30 years now and tells me that drinking trends have changed a lot in Venice. Who has drinks before lunch these days? How did a simple drink like Prosecco become so popular around the world? Who has been his favourite customer?, I ask. Antonio is too tactful to tell me but he does relate the time that Al Pacino came in and ordered a San Pellegrino. “He went outside to sit on the terrace by himself. The look in his eyes – it goes right inside you. I’ve

served Robert de Niro and Robert Redford here but with Al Pacino there is this vibration.” I wish I’d been there. I go to check to see if the new Presidential Suite is ready to be viewed but the answer is still, “Not yet” and so I go back to my room to take in the sea view again. There are quite a few people on the beach now but it’s still very quiet down there. Lido di Venezia is a curious place, the relict of a previous golden age but a place where Al Pacino drinks San Pellegrino in the night, a Liberty-style suburb of Venice that has a medieval city hidden away at its core. And it’s certainly a very relaxing place to cool your heels. I could take the hotel’s shuttle over to San Marco this afternoon but it’s bound to be crowded and to be honest, I quite fancy another seafood carpaccio. Maybe I’ll ask to eat in on the beach.

A plaque honouring Garibaldi at Malamocco

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 27

VENICE

Makeshift beach huts on the Adriatic side of the Lido

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

s d i k r o f

W

ow mum, look at that!” my daughter giggled, pointing at a large wooden boat that had arrived alongside our kayak on the Grand Canal. A well-dressed couple, sipping espressos, were perched elegantly on their sofa, amid an eclectic range of furniture and dozens of cardboard boxes. They raised their cups in polite greeting as they passed. Well, how else do you move house in a city where the streets are full of water? I’d last visited in winter, when temperatures were low and tourists few, but as we stepped off our water bus at St Mark’s Square, it was a completely different experience. This was summer. It was a humid 31 degrees, and a barricade of people and suitcases stood between us and the strip of dodgy souvenir stalls in front

of the Palazzo Reale. It took nearly 10 minutes to move the 150 yards to the launch pier for the hotel’s water taxi service. I was starting to have doubts over whether a city break to Venice at the height of summer with my eight-year-old in tow was such a great idea after all. Arriving at the Cipriani, just minutes later, any reservations I’d had instantly disappeared. Located on Giudecca Island, opposite San Giorgio Island, the hotel is just a five minute boat ride from St Mark’s Square, and yet sits in a tranquil spot amid beautiful gardens, seemingly worlds away from the tourist throngs. Having done all the tourist hotspots on previous visits – and given myself blisters in the process! – this trip was about giving daughter Molly a flavour of this unique city, rather than a complete immersion: a ➤ little culture and a lot of fun.

Clockwise from this image: Molly tries on a carnival mask; master glass-maker Stefano Serto; Mols confidently takes the helm

Photography © Liz Harper

“

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 29

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Liz Harper takes her eight-year-old daughter to Venice for her first experience of the Serenissima and finds plenty for kids to enjoy in the city…

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

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On our first evening, when the temperature had dropped and the tourists had thinned out, we took a boat back across to St Mark’s Square. It’s top of every tourist’s must-visit list, a meeting place for locals, and a design showcase for Venetian architecture and aristocracy alike. For us, it was also a place to stop for a drink and watch the world go by. After a quick bite in Aciugheta, a highly recommended pizzeria, we headed back towards the waterfront. The pink marble Gothic structure of Palzzo Ducale was spectacularly lit up at night: the stone loggias and arches elevating this former home of Venetian rulers – quite spectacular. TOURING BY KAYAK The next morning, it was time for an altogether different tour of Venice: a three-hour kayak ride. With my daughter taking the front seat, I settled in behind her, and we headed off alongside guide, Rene. Heading round Giudecca Island, Mols and I

worked on coordinating our paddling (a challenge in itself at times!) before cutting through the Rio del Ponte Lungo towards the main Giudecca Canal, which separates Giudecca from Venice. This 320 metre wide canal is a pretty busy thoroughfare and I wasn’t sure how I rated our chances against the cruise liners, passenger boats and freight vessels. What we lacked in size however, we more than made up for in momentum – it’s amazing what fear will do for you! – and it wasn’t long before we were ducking under the first of many bridges of the day and paddling down Rio della Fornasa towards Venice’s most famous waterway, the Grand Canal. It’s many years since I did a gondola ride, but I remember being very disappointed by the whole experience. I know it’s a “must do” on a trip to Venice but I found it all a little lacking (you pay for a boat ride, not a guided tour) and, er, well, a bit embarrassing if I’m brutally honest. ➤

This trip was about giving daughter Molly

30 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

a flavour of this stunningly unique city, rather than a complete immersion – a little culture and a lot of fun Clockwise from above right: Obligatory canal shot; glass vases made by Stefano Serto; getting craft-tastic and The Smile Club; swimming at Baccan; arriving at Cipriani, away from the crowds; kayaking as an alternative to the gondola

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 31

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO EAT

➤

➤ RISTORANTE PIZZERIA ALLE ZATTERE Fondamenta delle Zattere Dorsoduro, 791/a www.allezattere.com % +39 041 520 4224 With a great outdoor seating area on the Giudecca canal and a good selection of pizzas, pastas, salads, meat and fish dishes – not to mention a pretty special tiramisu, a big favourite for relaxed family dining. € ● € Price range ●

VENICE

➤ CIPS CLUB, HOTEL CIPRIANI Giudecca, 10 www.hotelcipriani.com % +39 01 852 678451 With views of St Mark’s Square from the water terrace and some of the best food in Venice, this is the place to come for a real treat. Non-alcoholic Bellinis for junior diners and exceptionally family friendly staff make this a dinner to remember for all the family. The price tag may be a little high but you certainly get what you pay for – be sure to book. € ● € ● € Price range ● ➤ ACIUGHETA Castello, 4357 www.aciugheta-hotelrio.it % + 39 041 522 4292 One of the best known pizzerias in town, Aciugheta also offers a great range of cicheti – bite-sized snacks – such as meatballs and mini stuffed peppers. Buzzy and friendly – the kids will love it. € Price range ● ➤ OSTERIA OLIVANERA Castello, 3417/18 www.osteria-olivanera.com % +39 04 1522 2170 Traditional Venetian recipes and a vibe that’ll have you wanting to hang around long after your meal has finished. The house lasagne is a big favourite with kids, and a far cry from anything you’ve made at home. Popular, so book ahead if you can. € ● € Price range ●

FACT BOX ➤ HOTEL CIPRIANI Prices start from £705 per night, including taxes, based on two people sharing a double garden-view room with balcony. Price includes breakfast. For further information or to book visit www.hotelcipriani.com or call the Orient-Express Hotels Ltd reservations department on % 0845 077 2222.  ➤ KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES (full meal per person, not including wine) € Up to €25 ● € ● € €26-€50 ● € ● € ● € More than €50 ●

Clockwise from this image: Passing under the Rialto Bridge; Molly’s mask; Mols by the pool at Cipriani; professionallymade carnival masks

32 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

I also found that the other 499 gondolas touring the same patch devalued the experience a little. Maybe that’s just me. The kayaks, on the other hand, were a whole different ball game. As we criss-crossed the Grand Canal, taking in all the sights along the way – including the beautifully ornate palaces and the Rialto Bridge – it was intriguing to see the same traffic issues as at home, despite lack of roads. Water buses and taxis, delivery boats, water ambulances and removal companies, all vying for position alongside the gondolas and private boats going about their business. Luckily, despite having got ourselves into a pretty impressive paddling groove, we fell way under the 7km per hour speed limit and weren’t pulled over by the police – unlike the water taxi in front of us! VENETIAN MASKS That afternoon Molly joined Verena and Amanda in the Smile Club of the hotel and spent the afternoon getting craft-tastic – and of course there’s only one thing to make in Venice: a Venetian mask. Two hours, a lot of giggling, and one paint, feathers, stickers, glitter and pen explosion later, and Molly had her very own custom-made mask (see the image above!). She was pretty impressed with her creation, until we ventured out later that night and checked out the shops around St Mark’s Square: her mask definitely had a minimalist look to it in comparison to the extravagant and ornate models on show in town.

very rough, very poor.” Molly thought it was beautiful and was mortified to learn that it would be scrapped. “Glass masters will not let anything leave that isn’t perfect,” we were told. “Their name sits on every piece and they will only sign perfection.” It seems my daughter’s idea of perfection and that of a glass master varied considerably. “It takes 15-20 years to become a glass master,” Stefano told us. “But even then lots of people don’t make it. It’s not just time, there has to be some raw talent there to start with.” There was little doubt of the talent on show at the Bisanzio Gallery; the pieces were stunningly beautiful. The price tags were also stunningly large and my daughter had a backpack on… It was a nervewracking hour! Our last few hours were spent in the hotel pool – perhaps not the best use of time in a city we’d barely scratched the surface of, but the perfect end to the day for Molly, made even more perfect by the complimentary delivery of little cups of sorbet brought to our lounger. The Cipriani Hotel is a timeless beauty in an age of contemporary and minimalist chic. It doesn’t compare with the new kids on the block, and it doesn’t try to. I’d wondered whether it was a good choice of accommodation when travelling with a child, but actually we couldn’t have picked better. I had concerns that it might be a bit stuffy and pretentious but it couldn’t have been less so. Staff were friendly, helpful and engaging and have managed to create a fabulously laid-back feel – it had one of the nicest vibes of any hotel I’ve stayed in, and my daughter and I both loved every minute. Asked about the highlights of her trip once back in the UK she said, “Kayaking past the palaces and under the Rialto Bridge, driving the boat with Stefano and jumping off into the water, the big St Mark’s Square, my lovely room, making a mask and playing with Verena and Amanda in The Smile Club. Pasta… Oh, and seeing that man and lady on their removal boat!” She’s keen to go back. In my view, that’s a successful trip! n!

Our last few hours were spent in the hotel pool

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 33

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The next day the hotel’s local guide, Stefano, took us out on a beautiful wooden bragozzo boat. Venetian through and through, and one of ten children, Stefano entertained us with stories of life in Venice. “The kids play ball games in the piazza or campi and it’s not uncommon to hear a shriek and splash as an enthusiastic football player chases the ball into the canal,” he laughed. “We keep an eye on the kids when they play. For a city with more than 170 canals, it’s surprising how many locals can’t swim.” With ‘first mate’ Molly at the helm, Stefano led us out towards Sant’Erasmo, the largest island in the Venetian lagoon. Referred to as ‘the Garden of Venice’, Sant’Erasmo is Venice’s agricultural heartland: sparsely populated but producing much of the city’s fresh produce. We weren’t there to check out the islands fruit and veg output however: we were there to play, Venetian style. Mooring up in waters to the east of Sant’Erasmo, Stefano explained: “This is where we come at weekends, it’s a great spot to escape the tourists and the heat. Sometimes it’s hard to find a spot to moor up it’s so busy, but we love it out here.” With relatively clear blue and shallow water it was clear to see why. “The locals call this area Baccan,” said Stefano. “We swim, play ball games, paddle board and chill out on the beach at Sant’Erasmo.” Not far from us a father and son were playing with bats and balls, seemingly walking on water. “It’s just a couple of inches deep there,” Stefano said. “That’s what makes it so safe for families: there’s a massive area of shallow water.” This was not a part of Venice I’d experienced before, and it seemed a million miles from the sweltering crowds of the city. For an eight-year-old, it was pure heaven. Later that day we had a tour of the glass workshop and Bisanzio Gallery on Murano. Glass master Stefano Serto talked us through the glass-making process, and then we witnessed a 1,100 degree raw material mix being transformed into an exquisite horse – in less than five minutes – in front of our eyes. “Of course that’s just to show you the process,” Stefano advised. “It’s

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LUNA

HOTEL

Photography © Sally FitzGerald, unless otherwise stated

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eaning out over the padded velvet balcony, watching the sun set over the still waters of the lagoon, I think I may be as close to paradise as I’m ever going to get. My taste buds still tingling from the flavour of the sweet strawberries enrobed in rich dark chocolate that caught my eye as soon as I entered the decadent room, my first impressions of Venice’s Luna Hotel Baglioni could not have got off to a better start. Luna Hotel Baglioni is Venice’s oldest hotel, dating back to the 12th century and, even though it now contains all the mod cons you could possibly require, the beautiful traditional décor makes it easy to imagine the likes of Casanova still dashing through its corridors. The hotel was rumoured to have given shelter to the Knights Templar in 1118, and has been known as Locanda della Luna since 1574. Now it has been taken over by The Leading © Luna Hotel, Baglioni

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Hotels of the World chain Baglioni Hotels and retains all the glamour and indulgence of its former self. Frescoes, antique furniture and crystal chandeliers line the corridors, while the hotel’s 104 rooms and suites all epitomise the height of luxury. In my particular room, a calming mint green brocade silk entices you to stroke the walls, while the queen size bed is so plumped up with pillows lying on it is like floating on clouds. Above the bed are two Venetian glass lamps made in a distinctly Moroccan style, illustrating both the ingenuity of Murano’s glass making skills and the influence Venice’s former trade links had on the city’s sense of style. A mirrored Art Deco mini bar and elegant wooden desk complete the room perfectly, while a beautifully white Italian marble bathroom makes for the ideal en suite. And the impeccable attention to detail isn’t reserved just for the rooms. The Caffè Baglioni, hidden

© Luna Hotel, Baglioni

© Luna Hotel, Baglioni

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For the ultimate in style and indulgence in Venice, you can’t do much better than the Luna Hotel Baglioni. Sally FitzGerald enjoys a weekend at La Serenissima’s oldest hotel…

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stores, you couldn’t ask to be closer to Venice’s most loved attractions. Now and again you can even hear a peal of bells filtering from the clock tower into your bedroom. In a city where it’s much easier to get lost than it is to find your way again – and considering that every sign leads you back to St Mark’s – having a hotel situated just a skip and a jump from the iconic square is a godsend. Particularly if, like me, your map reading skills are questionable. It also means that if you don’t fancy dining at the hotel’s award-winning Canova restaurant one night, you can easily make your way to one of the city’s many other nice restaurants (or even just pop next door to Harry’s Bar for a Bellini before bed). A night at the Luna Hotel Baglioni is far from a budget stay. But if you want to indulge yourself in the height of luxury and be within easy walking distance of the city’s most appealing sights, few places have more to offer than La Serenissima’s oldest hotel. And just the view from the balcony will be enough to make you want to return. n!

HOTEL LUNA ➤ The Leading Hotels of the World % 00800 2888 8882 (toll free) offers stays at Luna Hotel Baglioni, Venice from £287 per room per night based on two people sharing including buffet breakfast and VAT. www.LHW.com/baglioni

© Luna Hotel, Baglioni

away off the hotel’s main entrance and overlooking the canal, offers snacks throughout the day, and in the evening transforms into a lovely bar where you can wile away a few hours with an Aperol Spritz listening to the dulcet tones of the hotel pianist. Breakfast is an equally sumptuous occasion, both in the food and the location. With tradition steeped in every brick of the hotel, making your way to breakfast is like walking through an art gallery, following the aroma of freshly baked treats as you pursue the corridors decorated with beautiful works of art until you finally arrive at the main exhibition – the Marco Polo Ballroom. Unlike anywhere you may have breakfasted before, the ballroom’s ceiling showcases the hotel’s long running social standing with two frescoes painted by the pupils of 18th century Venetian artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. Only Venice’s best palazzi would have been privy to this treatment. While you admire the fluffy Rococo style of the frescoes you can feast on a true banquet of fresh pineapple, mini mozzarella balls, smoked salmon and scrambled egg, individual vegetable quiches, pear and chocolate cake, prune cake, and a selection of light, fruit-filled pastries. But the luxury of the Luna Hotel Baglioni isn’t its only major selling point: its location is unbeatable. Nestled just behind St Mark’s Square, and surrounded by high-end fashion © Luna Hotel, Baglioni

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VENICE THROUGH A LENS Sally FitzGerald goes on a week-long photography tour of Venice with Learning Holidays in Italy…

This image © iStock, all other photography, proudly, by Sally FitzGerald

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hen was the last time you did something for the first time? It is often said that you should try something new to challenge or push yourself every day, and as I was clinging to the walls of a speed boat careering up the Venetian lagoon one rainy October morning, I can safely say I was feeling a little apprehensive. And it wasn’t just the weather that had my stomach doing back flips – although the boat ride that should have resembled a scene from a James Bond movie and was more like a clip from The Perfect Storm wasn’t helping. It had more to do with the fact that I had just joined ten strangers to spend a week photographing one of the most beautiful cities in the world on a Learning Holidays in Italy residential photography getaway. I’m no stranger to my Canon SLR camera, but would I really be able to capture the beauty of Venice accurately, particularly in such bad weather conditions? I wasn’t too sure…

DON’T MISS The week started as any good Italian holiday should – with a relaxed Sunday lunch getting to know the rest of the group. With Learning Holidays In Italy there are often a couple of residential courses going on at the same time, so while the majority of the group would be joining me in my quest to take the perfect photo, the remaining members were primed to set off with their equipment of choice – an easel, paper and watercolours. As we made our way through plates of pizza topped with ripe red tomatoes and spaghetti covered in charcoal black squid ink, we began to discover everyone’s reasons for being on the trip. The group consisted of just two couples and the rest of us solo travellers, and people’s backgrounds ranged from former actresses now based in Greece to retired school teachers looking for new adventures. Yet despite the differences in our life experiences, our shared passion and excitement for what the week had in store for us had us chattering away non-stop.

HIDDEN VENICE Step away from the tourist hubs and take time to explore the lesser known areas of the city such as the Arsenale and the Jewish Quarter. You’ll be rewarded with getting to know the ‘real’ Venice and less crowded streets mean you can take longer concentrating on getting the best photos. The Campanile is also a great place for some amazing views of the entire city. The queue to get to the top is worth it.

the crowds and the duck boards which had already been set up in anticipation of the coming floods, and began to take our first photos of the city. The dreary, grey-hued results began to convince us that even the natural beauty of the city wouldn’t save our photos – we needed professional help. LEARNING THE BASICS The first half of the week-long course followed a similar pattern. While the painters set off early in the morning to get straight to work, the photographers enjoyed a slightly more leisurely breakfast, then met up in the hotel basement to spend the morning learning about our camera’s basic settings and what to do with them. We were soon to discover that there is little more dangerous than an SLR camera in the hands of someone who has no idea of how to use it. So during the first few days Rob guided us through everything from the basics of composition (we could seldom take a photo ➤

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After lunch, most of the group decided to make use of our afternoon’s free time by heading away from our base at the Lido over to St Mark’s Square for our first taste of Venice. We were soon to learn that while our group leader, Rob, couldn’t be rivalled as a photography tutor, his knowledge of the Venetian boat system was somewhat questionable. Setting out on the vaporetto line he had suggested (two wrong boats and an hour later) we finally completed the supposedly 15-minute trip to St Mark’s Square. Here we dodged

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GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR CAMERA

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➤ without Rob uttering the words ‘think about the leading lines’), to the use of aperture and speed, with even a quick lesson in Photoshop squeezed in for good measure. What Rob lacked in navigational skills, he made up for in his clear explanations of some quite complex photography terms, and wouldn’t move on until everyone in the group understood exactly what he was talking about. As we had the entire week to learn everything, rather than just a half-day taster session, we could afford to take our time getting the basics right, and it really did pay off.

After a leisurely lunch, the afternoons were when we would try out the skills we had learnt that morning. As everyone had a different level of experience – our group ranged from photography club members and motorsport photographers to a lovely lady who had only bought her camera two weeks previously – we could all help each other out. Even if Rob was busy advising one person, the rest of us could usually join together to figure out the problem at that moment. It also meant that we all pushed each other to go to the next level and try a new setting that we had previously been too scared to. The ultimate setting you want to be able to master as a photographer is the manual setting, which means you are fully in control of the camera, having to set both the aperture and the speed. We were all reluctant to make this leap

DON’T MISS VENICE AT NIGHT For me, Venice is at its most magical once the sun has set. Not only are there fewer people, but the abundance of beautiful lights provide the perfect photographic inspiration. Even if you’re not staying in Venice itself, the vaporetto service runs quite late, making it convenient to get back to areas such as the Lido. Get yourself a tripod, wrap up warm and you’ll get some of your best shots.

➤ KNOW WHAT KIND OF PHOTOGRAPHER YOU ARE There’s no point in getting to know every setting on your camera if you’re just going to revert to automatic each time you go out. It’s fine to use the automatic setting if you’re a beginner, but if you want to get to know the camera a little more, experiment with the P (program) setting, which allows you to control the exposure of your pictures. If you want to really get to know your camera, you can then move onto manual (M), which allows you to control speed and aperture to get the best shots. ➤ THINK ABOUT COMPOSITION There are various rules that might help you improve every shot you take, such as the rule of thirds and leading lines, but in general just spend a little time thinking about the scene, which elements are most important, and what is going to make the best shot. Try changing your angle for added interest and don’t be afraid to get down on your knees (or even lie down!) to get the right perspective. ➤ EXPERIMENT WITH WHITE BALANCE As you get to know your camera better, experiment with the white balance setting. This will help with cloudy days, inside photography and more. Just remember to change the setting as the lighting changes! ➤ PUT SETTINGS BACK TO NORMAL If you’re playing around with your settings, put them back to normal when you’ve finished your session. That way you won’t be shooting using your night settings in the middle of the day. ➤ ORGANISE YOURSELF When trying out new techniques you’ll take a lot of photos, so make sure you organise them well when you download them onto your computer. Delete any that are out of focus, the wrong angle etc, then edit down to keep your favourites. This helps when showing your family your holiday snaps as it means they won’t have to sit through all 1,000+ pics!

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until Jan, the most adventurous member of the group, switched over to it and forced the rest of us to follow. Of course, we weren’t left to fend for ourselves, even on the ‘field trips’, as Rob was always on hand to give a helpful hint at what speed and f-stop we should be using for a certain weather conditions (sadly cloudy with light rain was standard for most of the week). His teaching methods weren’t always conventional though, as several members of the group experienced when they held their camera the wrong way and received a cautionary jab from the pointy end of his long umbrella! As it was done with an affectionate smile, it always seemed to get the required result. The excursions were not only useful for practising different skills, but also provided a wonderful way to experience the ‘off the beaten track’ Venice. While we all took the compulsory shots of St Mark’s Square, the Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto bridge, we also got a glimpse of Venetian history

DON’T MISS CHOOSE YOUR SEASON There’s no denying that Venice is wonderful at any time of the year, but depending on how experienced a photographer you are, you should choose your visiting time carefully. If you want to take your time getting good shots, go for the low season, from autumn through to winter. If you know how to use your camera and want to get the impact shots, go at Carnival time for a festival of colour!

BECOMING A PHOTOGRAPHER One of my favourite aspects of the holiday, and the one that made me most feel like I was starting to become a proper photographer, was the night photography sessions. I have always adored night photos – the tourist-free streets and beautiful mood ➤

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at the wonderfully peaceful and architecturally beautiful military area of the Arsenale. Another day we experienced life as the true Venetians do, wandering around the backstreets of the Jewish Quarter and taking in the detail and buzz of the local market. Stalls packed with unusual local vegetables and baskets lined with green, red and orange chilli peppers stood facing shops displaying the vibrant blues, pinks, greens and blacks of the iconic Venetian

masks. And of course every street corner provided a new canal to view, gondoliers steering their passengers away from the crowded waterways to show them something a little more special. One of our full-day trips took us to the glorious island of Burano. As well as being famed for its lace, the Venetian gem is also cherished for its multitude of coloured houses, each one a different shade to the last. A photographer’s paradise in short. As well as the houses we stumbled upon a beautiful marina where we spent time photographing the anchors, ropes and nets lying dormant in the boats. Such an important part of Venice’s history, it seemed apt that shots of these objects should be added to our holiday portfolio.

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lighting feel like you are getting a glimpse of the secret side of a city. But have I ever had any idea how to take one of those photos myself? Of course not! So with tripods in hand we set off two nights in a row, firstly to capture some of Venice’s iconic night scenes, and secondly to explore the canals to see what lesser photographed sights we could uncover. With Rob there to guide us, it was deceptively easy! It really is up to the camera and tripod to do the work for you once you’ve got your settings sorted. So a lot of the time we were just able to stand back and soak up the beauty of Venice at night. Without having to battle other tourists, the city really is magical, and I got some of my favourite shots in those moments.

CONTACTS ➤ Sally travelled with Learning Holidays in Italy, which specialises in residential holidays in Italy covering subjects such as photography, painting, cookery and creative writing. Week-long breaks cost around £1,500 (no single supplement from 2014), and include accommodation, airport transfers, evening meals with wine, plus intensive tuition with a trained tutor. To see this year’s dates, visit www.paintinginitaly.com, email [email protected] or call them on % 0808 118 5729

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By the end of the week my passion for photography had completely consumed me. Thanks to having been immersed in my favourite hobby almost 24/7, not only was I thinking in f-stops, but I was also swaying on dry land due to the number of boats we had taken to our wonderful living photo shoots. I had met some absolutely lovely people and now, with a little help from Photoshop, I have photos of Venice that I am proud to hang on my wall to remind me of the week I decided to step outside my comfort zone and learn some new skills while enjoying the holiday of a lifetime. And those skills will now be with me on every trip I take for the rest of my life. Who could resist that? n!

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HIDDEN VENICE Getting to know Venice is that much easier when your guide is a Venetian. Sara Scarpa takes us on a tour of the city she calls home…

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Photograph © iSt

ock

It doesn’t matter how many times you go to Venice, you will always find something new

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ost of my friends have already been to Venice at least once so when they come to visit me I show them the side of town that I got to know by growing up and living here throughout my childhood and right into my early adult life. I walk with them amongst those hidden alleys and courtyards that, in a frenzy to cover the postcard-stereotype-touristhotspots, most visitors miss out on... Venice is a secret itself, right from its foundations. The surface hides millions of tree trunks under the water, which allow its existence. The city is rich with fascinating stories and legends. Venice, in its small, fish-shaped body swimming in water, has thousands of tiny calli and many other canals and bridges to discover. Set your map aside and get lost wandering through the tiny, dark and secret alleys, finding hidden campi, courtyards and gardens. Even now, even after so many years, even I sometimes discover some hidden gems that I have never seen before...

FIRST ITINERARY – THE ARSENALOTTI’S SECRETS AND THE MOST INTIMATE AREAS OF VENICE Start your journey from the Arsenale stop and walk towards the grand entrance of the Venetian shipyard. Don’t worry about checking the map, from the Fondamenta you will immediately spot the high perimetric walls and the two iconic towers. The Porta Magna is guarded by four marble lions which were looted from Greece. The larger lion on the left was taken by Francesco Morosini from Piraeus, the ancient harbour of Athens, and if you look close enough you will discover on its body some runic characters in the shape of a lindworm. If you look up high above the door you will notice another lion, this one winged, with a book open which is popularly believed to be a symbol of the time of peace for the Serenissima. Venice, as you have probably noticed, is full of lions, which are symbolic of Venice’s patron, St Mark the Evangelist, and therefore of Venice itself. Lion-spotting in Venice is a

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favourite activity of children – and also of mine! Passing in front of these lions takes you back in time to the Serenissima. You can almost picture the thousands of arsenalotti (the Arsenale workmen) working and living in this area apart from the rest of the city, handing down very precious, almost secret, knowledge from generation to generation. Thanks to the efficiency of the shipbuilding activities, the sailing skills and the organisation of the trading companies Venice had the supremacy of the sea. Its importance was so great that at the beginning of the 14th century it inspired verses in Dante’s Divina Commedia, and at the end of the 16th century it even involved Galileo as a consultant helping to solve shipbuilders’ problems. After stopping here to sit and have a drink or eat a pizza in front of this grand entrance (‘Trattoria Pizzeria Da Paolo’), cross the bridge again and walk back towards the Riva in the direction of Via Garibaldi. This is probably the most intimate residential part of Venice where you will find real

FIRST ITINERARY Main images from left: Dusk from the Rialto Bridge; the Arsenale – Porta Magna. Inset left, top to bottom: The Doge’s Palace; view from the Campanile with St Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. Inset right: evocations of the character of Castello

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path with a monument to Garibaldi – the subject of an intriguing legend. If you keep walking straight on you will pass a very characteristic boat-docked vegetable market. Almost in front of it you will find a typical Venetian wine shop – bring your empty plastic bottles here and have them filled with wine for only a couple of euros! Continuing in this direction, on your right you will notice a pretty capitello, a tiny shrine with the image of the Madonna that has a religious function for the locals and that my grandmother regularly embellishes with a freshly-washed drape. Cross the long wooden bridge and turn left in the direction of San Pietro di Castello, a small sleepy island linked by two bridges to the main body of Venice. Just before reaching the church, on your right hand side you might enter Corte dei Preti, a small, colourful, pretty courtyard. Next to the church you will notice a stunning cloister with a 16th century wellhead which used to be part of the Patriarchal building until it was converted into a military station and then eventually into flats.

Finally, next to the monumental, ill-fated Campanile (the only bell tower completely clad in slabs of Istrian stone still standing in Venice), you will see the Basilica di San Pietro. It stands in one of the few campi in Venice that is still grassy (campo means ‘field’ in Italian). The Basilica is built on a partially Palladian design and was Venice’s Cathedral until, due to its peripheral location, it was completely overshadowed and substituted by St Mark’s Basilica. Inside, amongst many works of art by Luca Giordano, Pellegrini and Veronese, you will find an intriguing throne falsely believed to be the throne of the apostle St Peter. In fact it is actually a seat cut from a Muslim funeral stone with inscriptions from the Koran.

Photography © Sara Reid unless stated

Venetians. In terms of atmosphere, its London equivalent would probably be the feel of the East End. Here, you will find yourself away from the high traffic tourist areas and instead you will be attracted by the loud locals and their endless lines of laundry! Via Garibaldi is one of the few streets in Venice that is actually called Via (street). Before becoming the bustling local thoroughfare it is today, it was actually once a canal (as you can tell from the white stones that mark the borders). It takes its name from Giuseppe Garibaldi, who played a major role in the unification of Italy. This is quite rare in a city like Venice, where the public worship of famous personalities was generally banned and where most calli and squares take their names mainly from saints, professions, trades, or even just local people. Walking here is just so relaxing. You should definitely stop at one of the bars for a spritz with a tramezzino (the English translation ‘sandwich’ does not do it any justice!). Towards the end of Via Garibaldi on the right hand side you will notice a shady, wide, tree-lined

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SECOND ITINERARY Above: Views of the Grand Canal, from land and, inset, from above the prow of a gondola. You may have seen these before, perhaps even in person, but have you been to the courtyard of Campiello del Remer and taken a spritz with the locals at Taverna Al Remer?

SECOND ITINERARY – FROM THE MERCENARY RIDING A HORSE TO THE GHOST OF THE TEMPLAR KNIGHT Get the vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (they cover the same route but in different directions). The boats circle the historic centre of Venice in the north lagoon and you will admire Venice from a different perspective. If you get the boat from the Lido you will see the back of the Basilica di San Pietro di Castello, the Certosa island and the perimetric walls of the Arsenale. Just before you get off at the Ospedale (hospital), you can spot the deep green cypresses contrasting with the pale red bricks of the walls that surround San Michele, a small island that has been serving Venice as a cemetery since the Austrian occupation, when burial in the historic centre of Venice was banned for sanitary reasons. It houses magnificent family chapels and graves, themselves works of art. You can see the graves of Igor Stravinsky and Ezra Pound among numerous other famous personalities buried here.

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The boat stops on the Fondamente Nuove just in front of the only hospital in Venice (excluding the mainland). It has recently been restored and if you look up you will notice the new helipad for emergency calls. Continue on Fondamenta dei Mendicanti and on the opposite side of the canal you can admire one of the few squeri still existing in Venice, which you might recognise in paintings by Guardi and Canaletto. You will then arrive in Campo San Giovanni e Paolo just in front of the stunning main entrance to the Hospital. This was the home to one of the major scuole grandi (great schools) in Venice until, during Napoleon’s reign, it became a military hospital and later a civic hospital, as it is to this day. Enter the monumental columned hall and visit the Museum of the History of Medicine, which has just been recently restored. The Basilica di San Giovanni and Paolo, just next to it, is definitely worth a visit as it is rich with works of art and it is a sort of mausoleum with 25 Doges buried here. The middle of the square, (one

of the biggest in Venice) is dominated by the equestrian statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni. He was one of Venice’s most loyal mercenary soldiers and it is believed that on his death in 1474 he left Venice a considerable amount of ducats on condition that the city would erect a statue of himself in front of St Mark’s. However, since Venice, as we already know, banned the public worship of famous personalities – and not even the Doge of Venice would get such privilege, with a clever ploy his statue was erected in front of St Mark’s Scuola Grande instead… Only a couple of minutes away you will find a favourite for most brides, the Chiesa dei Miracoli (Miracles Church), a ‘jewel box’ decorated with different shades of marble, both inside and out, which is one of the greatest early Renaissance Venetian structures. You can now rest on one of the benches of the Campo Santa Maria Nova (just on the opposite side of the canal), which is one of the few squares, (together with the mentioned Campo in San Pietro di Castello) where some

THIRD ITINERARY – A SECRET GARDEN IN VENICE Venetian gardens are unknown to most people, even to Venetians themselves. Most of them belong to private palaces and churches and are therefore difficult to visit. They represent another of Venice’s many secrets. Thanks to Padre Agostino’s availability and kindness we visited, by appointment, the vegetable garden and orchard of the Redentore church. Here in the buildings near the garden and the church live 25 Capuchin friars. In this garden, which extends the whole width of the Giudecca island, they grow vegetables, fruit, olives and sunflowers. Peace and silence dominate here. This shady garden has a stunning view of the Lagoon and the islands of San Clemente, San Servolo and the Lido. Here is the best spot to meditate. At our wonder observing the beauty and size of the produce of the gardens Father Agostino reminded us that people are always trying to look for miracles to prove the existence of God while these miracles are just in front of our eyes. There is a small church dating back to 1536, prior to the construction of the church of Redentore, and also a tiny cemetery for the friars who used to live here. In the stunning cloister behind the church a functioning well waters the garden. After spending two years studying philosophy in Milan, the friars study theology in this peaceful place for four years. To keep them company they have chickens, hens and two cats. (The black and white cat is called Silvestro!) Satisfied with our visit and wonderful guide we leave the heavenly silentium to go back to bustle of everyday life… THIRD ITINERARY Below: Views of the Redentore gardens. In the top image we see the Lagoon from the gardens; below, looking inland, we have a view of the back of Andrea Palladio’s church; and on the left, cypress trees spring above the gardens. This is where Father Agostino exhorted us not to search deep in nature for the miracles that prove God’s work, for here they are laid out in their splendour before our very eyes.

GETTING THERE ➤ BY PLANE You can fly to Venice/Treviso from Birmingham, Bristol, Dublin, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Leeds Bradford, London – City, Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton, Southend and Stansted – Manchester and Newcastle. The airport is some 20km from the city.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO ➤ CORTE CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO San Marco district – you will find it by following the signs from Campo Manin The small Corte hides an elaborate external spiral staircase which is an extension to the Gothic palace of the Contarini family. The name refers to the spiral form of the staircase – in fact bovolo in Venetian is a small edible snail. The fancy tower is a mixture of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine styles. ➤ CORTE BOTERA Castello district – not very far from San Giovanni e Paolo Its name derives from the manufacturers of barrels once located here. A stunning setting with a late Gothic wellhead and an external covered staircase. The remains of the 13th century round arch used to be one of the entrances of Palazzo Contarini della Zoggia that used to stand here. The gate to the Corte is usually open from sunrise until dawn. Hugo Pratt called this suggestive courtyard ‘Corte Sconta detta Arcana’ and one of his adventures starts exactly from this spot. ➤ CORTE DEL TAGIAPIERA Santa Croce district, near Campo San Giacomo The corte and the ancient wellhead are now adorned with plants and flowers that make it even more picturesque. The pavement is made of old tavelle, which is nowadays very rare. ➤ CORTE GREGOLINA In the heart of Venice, not far from St Mark’s Square and the busy Calle dei Fabbri This is a very peaceful corte with a stunning wellhead in Istrian stone from the end of the 15th century which resembles a basket. ➤ THE CLOISTERS Definitely worth visiting also are the cloisters. I would recommend Sant’ Apollonia, the ancient convent of San Salvador near Rialto (where you can see some of the very few Venetian wells still without the metal or stone cover), the ex Convent of Santo Stefano and San Francesco della Vigna.

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trees are still standing. The church on the opposite side of the Campo is San Canzian, where Casanova used to smuggle love letters to a nun… Keep walking on Salizada San Canzian towards San Giovanni Grisostomo. If you want to have a great view with a different perspective of the Canal Grande turn right to Campiello del Remer. This beautiful hidden courtyard with arcades and a well has a dock onto the Canal Grande, which most locals use as a resting spot to drink a spritz. The ‘Taverna Al Remer’ offers a great happy hour deal – a buffet of different cicchetti to choose from that comes free with your drinks. Nearby is the place where Marco Polo’s houses stood, which is now the Malibran Theatre. The houses were destroyed by a terrible fire in 1597 and there are only a few Venetian-Byzantine architectural remains surviving in the nearby Corte Seconda del Milion. If you walk under the stunning Portico that Marco Polo himself must have admired at the time, and walk along the narrow calle you will find Corte Morosini. This is a little hidden gem with stunning arcades and an old wellhead. It is the perfect setting for the legend of the Templar Knight, a sad story of love and betrayal… Take time to stop in this Corte and read up about the legend. Admire the shield on the patera above the arched entrance to the courtyard and also on the side of the well. In this magical atmosphere, away from the bustle, it will be easy to imagine the ghost of the knight still wandering in the area…

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FOURTH ITINERARY Above: A gondoliere takes his passengers down a quiet canal. Inset right, from top: Dawn breaks over St Mark’s Square; Malamocco, one of the three narrow channels in the barrier island chain that separates the Lagoon from the sea

FOURTH ITINERARY – THE LIDO: AN UNDERAPPRECIATED GEM This is famous mainly for the Movie Festival held every year from the end of August to the first week of September when it is besieged by Hollywood. Otherwise this island is an under-appreciated treasure. The 11km-long sandbar that shelters the Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea was developed as a seaside resort at the beginning of the 20th century and became so popular with its aristocratic visitors that was commonly known as ‘the golden island’. Only 15 minutes away from St Mark’s Square, the Lido is definitely worth spending at least a day at if you are coming during spring or summer. I highly recommend you hire a bike and cycle all along the island. This narrow strip is packed with history, from the starting point of the fourth crusade to Lord Byron’s daily horse-riding expeditions. If you start from Santa Maria Elisabetta (this is where the vaporetto stops) you can

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cycle along its western side, which faces the Lagoon and St Mark’s until you reach the Chiesa di San Nicolò. Here you can visit the church and the pretty cloister. Then you can cycle past the Aeroporto Nicelli, an airport for smaller aircraft (where you can book a 30-minute helicopter flight over Venice). At the roundabout you should stop for a very tasty bruschetta and spritz at ‘Chiosco Bar Pedrocchi’. Refilled with energy continue your cycle ride on the eastern side of the island, which faces the Adriatic Sea with a long series of beaches. After approximately ten minutes on your right you can see the Casinò and the Palazzo del Cinema built during the 1930s. Pass the luxury Moorish-style Hotel Excelsior and at the end of Lungomare Marconi continue straight on. You might struggle on your bike for a couple of minutes here as the entrance to the Murazzi is quite sandy, but it is definitely worth it. The Murazzi is a very large dyke (approximately 5km long) built in the 18th century

to protect Venice and the Lagoon from the sea. You can admire the sea while cycling on a path perfect for bikes and if you like sunbathing you can stop and tan in one of the many piers or stone blocks. Then, I recommend you to take a right turn and cycle to Malamocco, where the atmosphere is magical. In the summer, after sunbathing, I always cycle along the canal and stop just after the little bridge at ‘Trattoria Al Ponte di Borgo’ to eat a mozzarella in carrozza con acciughe (literally it means ‘mozzarella in a carriage with anchovies’) – a golden-crusted fried mozzarella sandwich filled with anchovies). That is the best way to end a day rediscovering my city.

INFORMATION ➤ If you would like to know more about Sara’s Venice read her blog at veneziavenexia.blogspot.com

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FROM THE SADDLE © iStock photo

Venice by bike & boat Adrian Mourby leaves the planes and trains behind and sets out to reach La Serenissima from a new perspective – the saddle of a bike…

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

50 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

at the southernmost end of the Venetian lagoon. We were led by Martina, our tiny, tanned tour guide, who took us through the fish market (the biggest in northern Italy) and warned us about Chioggia. “The people here are slightly mad. You must never say that Chioggia is like Venice. They don’t like Venice. They were here first.” VENETIAN LION The problem is that Chioggia is like Venice. It has canals and palazzos and a cathedral designed by the man who built Santa Maria della Salute. It even has a very small Venetian lion on top of a column (known locally as “the cat” because the sculptor got the dimensions wrong). Chioggia is what Venice would be like today if it hadn’t become Italy’s major tourist attraction. Instead of gondolas it has fishing boats that come into the centre of the city

cupboards full of vellum texts. He unfolded one crackling document and pushed it into the hands of a couple from Seattle. “This dates from the mid-15th century,” he announced. “Before Columbus found America!” Other papers and parchments were passed around, and I’m struck by the thought that in most countries these artifacts would be behind glass, but here they’re just bundled into cupboards.

We were led by Martina, our tour guide, who took us through the fish market When not cycling – the biggest in northern Italy – and warned us about Chioggia

or sightseeing, our international party slept and ate on the Ave Maria, a purposebuilt canal boat commissioned by Girolibero, the Italian company that leads cycling tours all over Italy. In all we covered 150 km over five days and every night we would rendezvous with the Ave Maria and return our cycles to their special racks. It’s a truly great way to see to explore the Po, Brenta and Adige rivers.  The next morning, having slept off yesterday’s 40km, I joined our group for a walk round Chioggia,

pursued by gulls and, unlike Venice, it boasts a few narrow streets of traffic that arrive here across bridges from the mainland and get horribly snarled up, horns blaring. “As bad as Naples,” said Martina as she brought us to meet Dr Luciano Bellemo, a jovial historian with eccentric teeth who is custodian at the clocktower of Chiesa di Sant’Andrea, which was constructed in 1386. On the tower’s second floor Luciano showed us

Captions from top left; Makeshift suntraps on the Lido; Venice-bound; late summer splendour; aboard the Ave Maria; 40 orange bikes; the Excelsior

We were led to the fifth floor (past a picture of local saint, Pope Pius X) to find the ancient clock itself, built using two large white rocks as counterweights. Then to the belfry where we could see all of ancient Chioggia filling this tiny island with fine views north to the Alps. Suddenly 10am sounded and the peal of bells was deafening. My fellow cyclists headed rapidly ➤

GETTING AROUND IN VENICE ➤ Between the pedestrians, the bridges and the canals it’s pretty much impossible to cycle in Venice itself, though you can enjoy some pedal power on the islands of the lagoon in low season. The best way to explore the city is aboard the Vaporetto waterbuses. A single journey costs €6.50, or invest in a pass if you are going to be in the city for more than a few days. As well as being the easiest way to get around, the journeys can take the form of sightseeing cruises, or just the chance to have a nice sit down away from the crowded, pedestrian-filled streets. Buy passes at the train station, or any vaporetto ticketing kiosk.

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I

had never heard of Chioggia until I joined a group of cyclists cycling from Mantua to Venice. I’d never thought about cycling around Italy either until now but it really is the best way to see the countryside. In a car everything flashes by too quickly. On foot it can feel as if the view ahead hasn’t changed for hours. Besides, cycling takes you places – along rivers, through fields and in and out of city backstreets where cars and coaches cannot go. Chioggia was a case in point. Following the example of my hearty Norwegian companions I zipped along sidestreets and zoomed over canal bridges until we reached our boat, moored behind the fish market. Here these hearty Scandinavians helped my wife and I stow our bicycles on board the Ave Maria and then we were invited to join them for gin and beer in the dining room.

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

bagged for market. The guys clearly found it hilarious when several women in our party dismounted to photograph them at work. And further on still to the Venetian Fort of San Pietro in Volta, built to guard the lagoon from Genoese and Turkish attack. The cycling was very easy: few cars and no gradients whatsoever. Finally we reached the ferry for Lido Island and piled on board, 40 bikes, several cars, two buses and an ambulance for the 10-minute journey to the village of Alberoni, which is named after the trees that fishermen could see from the Adriatic and use to navigate themselves towards the lagoon. We assembled again on the quayside of Porto degli Alberoni and followed Martina as far as Malamocco, which is a gorgeous little village hidden behind the gracious tree-lined sweep of Lido’s

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➤ downstairs but I couldn’t resist waiting till last and shouting “Sanctuary!” Dr Luciano waited for me with a smile on his amiable face. I doubt I was the first to channel Quasimodo here. Back at the Ave Maria the crew of four were preparing to island-hop us on to Pellestrina, one of the long spits of land that act as a barrier between the Venetian lagoon and the Adriatic. The boat is very new and a big, low

It was touching to think that La Serenissima had begun quite so modestly. During the period of the Republic, we were told, Malamocco was one of nine districts of the Venetian Dogado. Now we were cycling the final stretch up the Adriatic side of Lido Island as far as the Excelsior Hotel.  The Excelsior’s private beaches push the cycle route off the coast and into the centre of the island, past the new Film Festival Building and the Hotel des Bains – where Death in Venice was set, written and filmed. What a shame it’s all boarded up at the moment. Then it was time to get on board the Ave Maria again for a final trip across the lagoon and into the Bacino San Marco so that Captain Luciano could show us Venice in all its late summer glory. We turned in front of San Giorgio di Maggiore and

Finally we reached the ferry for Lido Island and piled on board, 40 bikes, Arsenale towards our several cars, two buses and an ambulance for the 10-minute journey chugged past final mooring on the island of solid creature that plods along at 13 kmh. Captain Luciano, who also waits at table in the evening, dropped us just south of the actual village of Pellestrina, where we offloaded our 40 orange bikes. As I re-attached my panniers, one of the taller Norwegians clapped me affably on the shoulder and we set off again behind Martina. Our route was along the sturdy 18th-century sea wall while the Ave Maria headed for Lido, where it would await us. At the brightly painted village square Martina called a halt in case anyone wanted a midmorning coffee. I used the time to look at the church of Ognissanti and the tall stone wall which had kept Pellestrina inhabitable for more than two centuries.

Captions from top left; Adrian and his wife on two wheels; cycling through Mantua; arriving in Chioggia; cycling along the Po; the lagoon; easy roads

CLAMS FROM THE LAGOON Resuming our route north on the lagoon-side we passed fishermen working on their clamboats. Last night huge prow-mounted conveyor belts had scooped up clams from the lagoon and now they were being 52 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

Art Nouveau’s avenues. Theodatus, the second doge of Venice (742755 AD), moved the ducal seat here from Eraclea and it remained in Malamocco until 812 AD, when Venice was resettled across the lagoon in Rialto. Malamocco has a parish church, now dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, that dates in part to the 12th century, a 15th-century Palazzo del Podestà in Gothic style and the smallest “Piazza Maggiore” I have ever seen.

Certosa. Venice is a city I always love to visit, I’ve arrived by car, plane and train but this time the actual travelling had been as much fun as the arrival. n!

BIKE AND BOAT TO VENICE ➤ Girolibero % +39 0444 330724 www.girolibero.com offer seven-night cruises between Mantua and Venice and Venice and Mantua from €995 on board the Ave Maria. Price is per person for 2014, based on two people sharing.

VENICE ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 53

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PA S T I TA L I A !

54 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

IL PALAZZO DUCALE The Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace, was home to the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the Republic of Venice, and is perhaps the city’s most recognisable landmark…

E

© iStock photo

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stablished in 1340 and built in Venetian Gothic style, The Doge’s Palace overlooks the tranquil lagoon and is decorated with works by artists such as Titian and Tiepolo. Having opened as a museum in 1923, the million-plus visitors a year can explore the building in its entirety, including the dungeons and prison cells, accessible by crossing the Bridge of Sighs. Iconic womaniser Casanova did time in the prison here before his miraculous escape! Tourists tend to take a few hours to venture around the Palace and absorb everything, but it’s worth the expedition. n!

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 55

Photograph © iStock

P R O P E RT Y F O C U S

PROPERTY FOCUS

VENICE PROPERTY FOCUS There is no such thing as a cheap property in Venice, though there are some quite delightful residences to be had, and some bargains to be discovered…

€250,000-€500,000

GIUDECCA ISLAND, VENICE

Beautiful two-bedroom apartment on the island of Giudecca, enjoying charming views over Venice. The apartment is set on the third floor and is composed of: entrance, sitting room, kitchen, terrace with canal view, two spacious bedrooms, bathroom, storage and a loft. Recently refurbished and sold fully furnished. There is also a shared roof terrace enjoying breathtaking views over the whole of Venice and its lagoon. Price €325,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

56 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

€500,000-€1,000,000

CAMPO SANTA MARINA, VENICE

Charming two-bedroom apartment with stunning and unique canal view, set in the district of Castello between Rialto Bridge and Campo Santa Maria Formosa. The apartment is set on the second floor of a beautiful listed building and has been recently renovated. It is composed of: spacious entrance hall and balcony with canal view, sitting room, kitchen, two bedrooms and a bathroom. The views enjoyable from the apartment are simply charming and unique. The building enjoys a shared roof terrace with views over the whole of Venice. Price €690,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

CASTELLO, VENICE

Charming studio apartment in the district of Castello, in the area called Sant’Elena, near the gardens and the Biennale exhibition. The apartment is set on the third floor and composed of: entrance, study/dressing room, bathroom and open plan sitting area with kitchen corner and bedroom. The apartment is very bright. Recently refurnished. Price €195,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

€250,000-€500,000

ASOLO, VENETO

Stunning two-bedroom apartment set in historic building located in the centre of the historic hamlet of Asolo, also known as ‘the Pearl of the province of Treviso’. This unique hamlet is located on the hills north of Treviso near the vineyards well know for producing Prosecco wine. The building, totally restored, hosted Napoleon Bonaparte during one of his Italian campaigns. The apartment is set on two floors and composed of entrance, spacious dining/sitting room and kitchen on the ground floor, two master bedrooms and three bathrooms. Breathtaking views over the surrounding valley! Parking place on request. Price €280,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

€100,000-€250,000

CORNOLEDA, VENETO

This charming house is located in the village of Cornoleda on the southern side of the Euganean Hills, near Padua and Vicenza. The property has a beautiful garden and is set on two floors. Ground floor: entrance into sitting room with fireplace, large kitchen, bathroom with shower and bathtub, garage. First floor: three bedrooms and a study which could be converted in a second bathroom. This stunningly beautiful area, studded with picturesque hill towns, beautiful villas and terraced vineyards, is about 55kms from Venice. Venice and Treviso airports are only 40 minutes’ drive away. Price €200,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

€250,000-€500,000

EUGANEAN HILLS, VENETO

This charming country villa is located in the hamlet of Galzignano, in the Euganean Hills, near Padua. The property consists of a villa built at the beginning of last century on the ruins of a much older historic building. It is set on three floors. Ground floor: living area with kitchen, dining room and sitting room. Upper floors: 10 bedrooms and a stunning terrace with views over the hills. It is surrounded by a fenced private garden of about 5,000sqm and the property includes other outbuildings. The property is in need of restoration and could be turned into a stunning residence or a tourist resort. Price €250,000 Contact Properties in Italy % +39 349 452 0481 [email protected] www.propertiesinitaly.net

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 57

PROPERTY FOCUS

€100,000-€250,000

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SECRET VENICE THE TESTA D’ORO AT RIALTO

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Can you spot these often missed street scenes and overlooked objects of Venice? Let Secret Venice guide you round the streets of San Marco… 1

Salizada Pio X, Rialto Almost opposite the entrance to the church of San Bartolomeo at the foot of Rialto Bridge is a small sculpture of a head that can often pass unnoticed. In bronze, it is the old shop sign for the apothecary Alla Testa d’Oro (At the Golden Head) and dates from an era when a substantial part of the population was illiterate and had no other way of identifying the shop. We do not know exactly whom the artist took as his inspiration for this depiction of a rather haughty, determined face crowned with laurel leaves. Perhaps it was Virgilio Zorzi, one of the former owners of the apothecary shop, or perhaps it was an imaginary portrait of Andromache or Mithridates. On the wall, you can also see a fragment of an inscription which refers to Theriaca d’Andromaco. A sort of universal panacea believed to be efficacious against any number of ills, teriaca was a speciality of this spezieria as early as 1603. In fact, its teriaca was considered the best in the city, thus Alla Testa d’Oro was authorised to manufacture the potion three times a year, whilst all the other licensed apothecaries in Venice could only do so once a year. After the Fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797, this apothecary was the only one to go on producing teriaca. It would continue to do so right into the 20th century, even if the recipe was simplified. For example, when regulations regarding pharmaceutical products were introduced in the 1940s, teriaca could no longer include opium, an ingredient that had originally been included for its analgesic properties.

“Custodian of the secrets of a universal panacea” SIGHTS NEARBY THE GRAFFITI IN THE FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI The Fondaco dei Tedeschi formerly housed the warehouses, exchange and residence facilities (more than 200 rooms) for merchants from Germany, Austria, Hungary and the north of Europe in general. The interior courtyard was laid out on three floors, the corridors visible through arcades (so the Venetians could keep the activities within under easy surveillance). On the first floor, alongside the monumental clock, there are bits of graffiti carved into the parapets. These include the schema for a game of Nine Men’s Morris, which here seems more likely to be an esoteric symbol than the simple outline of a game.

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HEAD OF AN OLD WOMAN

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Corte del Teatro, San Luca Halfway up a house in Corte del Teatro, there is a curious marble sculpture of an old woman’s head, which originally seems to have been the shop sign of the Farmacia “La Vecchia” in Campo San Polo. There is an amusing story about it. A miserly old woman (vecchia) of the parish of San Paternian used to hide her money in the lining of an old cloak that she kept in the attic. One winter’s day, her son, Vincenzo Quardio, knowing nothing about the hiding place, took pity on a local pauper and gave him the cloak. A week later, the woman went to add to her savings but could not find the garment. To convince her son to go and get it back, she told him that it contained all the money that she had intended to leave to him. The son then set out in search of the pauper, even disguising himself as a beggar on the steps of Rialto Bridge. Finally, he found him and, voicing charitable concern about the bitter cold, suggested a swap: his own thick cloak for the threadbare one he had given him before. With the money he got back, the son was then able to open a flourishing apothecary’s business, the rear of which was decorated by a sculpture showing his mother seated and himself standing. These days, all you can see of the high-relief is the woman’s head, flanked by an image of a cedar tree (the shop sign of another nearby apothecary that has since disappeared), the arms of the Bembo and Moro families, and the crest of the Confraternity of San Rocco. In the 16th century, this house had passed from the Bembo to the Moro and then to the confraternity.

“The good, the poor and the miserly”

SIGHTS NEARBY THE EMBLEMS ON THE FLAG POLE IN CAMPO SAN LUCA On the base of the flag pole in Campo San Luca are the emblems of the two confraternities that played a part in defeating the conspiracy led by Bajamonte Tiepolo: the Scuola della Carità (Confraternity of Charity) and the Scuola dei Pittori (Guild of Painters).

60 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

There are other reminders of the Bajamonte Tiepolo conspiracy in Venice. An engraved stone in Campo San Agostino (near Campo San Polo) identifies the location of Bajamonte’s house, which was demolished. In its place, a “column of infamy” recording his crime was initially set up. It was then replaced with the paving stone that recalls the episode. Other traces are the marks that were set on the homes of each of the conspirators as well as the emblems of the confraternities that helped bring about the defeat of the conspiration, on campo San Luca.

THE SCULPTED PLAQUE OF AN OLD WOMAN WITH A MORTAR 3

Mercerie, at the corner of the Sotoportego del Cappello Mercerie, 149 Often overlooked, this sculpted plaque just a few steps from St Mark’s Square is a reminder of a remarkable incident in the history of the Venetian Republic that took place on 15 June 1310. In order to overthrow Doge Pietro Gradenigo, the Tiepolo and Querini families banded together with various other aristocratic families in a plot led by one Bajamonte Tiepolo. However, things did not go as planned. Forewarned by informers, the doge’s guards cut off access to the Palace and fighting started in St Mark’s Square. Soon, the rebels had to beat a hasty retreat, making for the Rialto via the Mercerie. Looking out on these events from her balcony at the beginning of that street, an old woman – whom some records identify simply as “Giustina”, others as “Lucia Rossi” – dropped a heavy mortar onto the fleeing rebels, hitting Bajamonte Tiepolo’s standard-bearer and killing him on the spot. The old woman subsequently asked for a reward for her derring-do, requesting that thereafter, on 15 June and all public holidays, she be allowed to hang the banner of St Mark from her balcony, and that the rent for her house never be raised (neither for her nor her daughters after her). A munificent ruler, the doge accepted her requests, and ruled that the fixed rent should be enjoyed by the old woman’s heirs in perpetuity. More than 500 years later, in 1861, the sole occupant of the house, Elia Vivante Mussati, had this plaque carved. Bearing the date of the rebellion, it depicts the old woman throwing the mortar. Directly below the sculpted plaque in St Mark’s is a small white stone indicating where the mortar fell. It also shows the date in Roman numerals.

SIGHTS NEARBY

“Biagio’s miraculous sacrifice”

THE PLAQUE OF THE FIRST FEMALE GRADUATE On the wall of Palazzo Cavalli, at the corner of Riva del Carbon and Calle Cavalli, a plaque placed about four metres high recalls the fact that the first woman in the world to graduate from a university was born here in Venice, in 1646. Elena Lucrezia Cornaro Piscopia graduated from the University of Padua (then under Venetian rule) with a degree in philosophy in 1678. The first university to welcome female students opened in Zurich in 1867.

Palazzo Loredan, Riva del Carbon Looking at Palazzo Loredan, the second column in from the left has a graffiti depiction of a man with a long pipe. It is inspired by the remarkable legend of a local fisherman called Biagio. A firm favourite with one and all, this old man used to spend a lot of time outside Palazzo Loredan, touting for small jobs amongst the residents of the district. During the moments of rest that he allowed himself, he liked to stand and look out along the canal whilst smoking his pipe. One day, however, when the city was very quiet, the wake left by a passing gondola suddenly turned red. The waters of the canal parted, leaving the gondola suspended in midair, whilst the panic-stricken gondolier dived to one side and swam to the bank. At this point two enormous black arms ending in terrible claws came out of the water and snatched away the felze (the small cabin that used to be located at the centre of a gondola). Biagio caught a glimpse of two young girls seized by the claws, whilst a monstrous, twin-horned head emerged from the water. Biagio had no doubt that it was Satan himself. Later, it emerged that the two young girls were members of the Gradenigo family, and it was said that Satan was probably taking revenge upon their father, whose dabbling in the secrets of magic had unwittingly offered the Devil the chance to seize hold of these innocent souls. Faced with this terrifying spectacle, Biagio did not think twice. He hurled his pipe into the water and yelled at Satan to take him rather than the two girls, extending his arms to show that he offered himself in sacrifice. Now it was Satan’s turn to mock Biagio for believing he was some sort of Christ figure. However, he did promise to release the two girls if Biagio’s extended arms could embrace the entire world. No sooner had he said this than Biagio’s arms were painlessly detached from his body and, followed by a host of cherubim, flew off in either direction around the globe. The Devil was left speechless and released the two girls, leaving untouched the old Biagio, whom God had protected.

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 61

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GRAFFITI OF A MAN WITH A PIPE 4

THE PINK COLUMNS OF THE DOGE’S PALACE 6

“An alchemical symbol of the search for Philosopher’s Gold”

In the upper gallery of the Doge’s Palace, two pink columns stand amongst all the other white ones. Legend has it that the doge used to stand between these two during official ceremonies. It was also from here that death sentences were announced to the crowd below (the pink thus recalling the colour of blood). The most common place for the gallows was between the two columns overlooking the waterfront in the Piazzetta. Across the far side of St Mark’s Square was the clock tower, and so the condemned man could see the exact time of his demise. St Mark’s bell tower itself was sometimes used for punishments, when a cage (cheba) containing convicted criminals was hung from a point halfway up the structure.

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THE WINGED HORSE OF PALAZZO MOROSINI 5

Palazzo Morosini, Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco 2802 The main entrance of Palazzo Morosini gives onto Campo Santo Stefano, whilst the other side of the building is bound by the Rio Del Santissimo. Although there is a bridge over the small rio, it is nevertheless difficult to see the amazing sculptures that decorate this side of the building. You either have to have your own boat or else ask the gondolier to halt here as you go past. One of the sculptures is a surprising depiction of a winged horse flanked by two winged gryphons. The horse is Pegasus, an animal which in Greek mythology was said to have been born from the blood of Medusa after Perseus beheaded the monster. Where Pegasus’ hoof struck the ground of Mount Helicon, it caused water to flow forth. This “Horse Spring” (Hippocrene) would become identified as the source of poetic inspiration and associated with the immortality of poetry. Pegasus was subsequently immortalised by Zeus, who turned him into the constellation Pegasus within the northern hemisphere. Ultimately, the winged horse would also become a symbol of the Primordial Tradition of Alchemy, its flanks said to be made of gold (a reference to the Philosopher’s Gold which was the ultimate aim of the Great Work of Alchemy). It is no accident that this sculpture is placed here, over a very quiet canal. It symbolises Divine Wisdom, referring to Pegasus’ ability to create, with a mere blow of its hoof, a miraculous spring that can give humans immortality. This divine wisdom is also represented by the two winged gryphons alongside. They symbolise the phase of sublimation in alchemy. Traditionally, these creatures were said to mate with a mare, the fruit of the union being a hippogryph. There is a medieval expression, Jungentur jam grypes equis, which means “to cross a gryphon with a horse” and was used to refer to something that was considered impossible. Hence, the hippogryph symbolises both love and impossibility. In medieval legends, this imaginary animal was often associated with knights in love with a lady who was impossible to conquer. Similarly, it would become the symbol of those engaged in the magical arts, who achieved the apparently impossible by submitting the material to the laws of the spiritual. 62 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

SIGHTS NEARBY THE LAMPS OF THE DOGE’S PALACE On the southwest side of the Doge’s Palace are two small lamps that are always kept lit. They commemorate one of the rare occasions when the Republic admitted to a miscarriage of justice. One morning, as he was going to his bakery, baker Piero Tasca tripped over an object lying on the gleaming flagstones. Bending down to pick it up, he saw it was the sheath of a dagger. A few feet away lay the body of a man. Tasca was arrested for his murder, ultimately “confessing” under torture and consequently executed on 22 March 1507, opposite the south

side of the basilica. The real murderer was discovered shortly after his execution. TRACES OF AN OLD WELL IN ST MARK’S SQUARE A dozen or so metres in front of Caffè Florian (slightly to the right), a discreet inscription marks the site of the last public well to exist in St Mark’s Square. THE AXIS OF THE BASILICA St Mark’s Basilica is not aligned with St Mark’s Square. Under the arcades in the square, opposite Sotoportego de l’Arco Celeste, is a metal medallion indicating the exact line of the basilica’s axis.

SIGHTS NEARBY

BUY THE BOOK

THE ONLY UNDERGROUND CANAL IN VENICE If you have your own boat – or want to add to the wealth of one of the gondoliers – you can enjoy the thrill of travelling along the one underground canal in Venice, a stretch of the Rio del Santissimo that passes right under the choir of the Church of Santo Stefano. The place is also well-known to young Venetians, who come here to smoke without being disturbed. At high tide, be ! careful not to hit your head! n

➤ These sights are taken from Secret Venice by Thomas Jonglez and Paola Zoffoli, published by Jonglez. You can buy the book for £13.99 in all good book stores or visit www. jonglezpublishing .com

VENETO & BEYOND The hinterland of Venice includes the picturesque Po Delta, the historic city of Verona, and some of the most beautiful mountainscapes in Europe…

VENETO & BEYOND

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Clockwise from top left: The ceiling of Sant’Anastasia; the Giardino Giusti; view across the Adige; time for wine; the Ponte Vecchio; flower market at the Arena; lemon trees in the Piazza Bra’; rooftop view of the city

64 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

With preserved architecture spanning all the ages from ancient times through the medieval and Renaissance periods, Verona is the perfect city for sightseeing. Lorenza Bacino reports…

Photography © Lorenza Bacino unless otherwise stated

I

don’t want it to end. My last morning in Verona is spent enjoying the view from a café in Piazza Bra’ overlooking the Arena and savouring the traditional spritz aperol I’ve come to know and love on this trip. The aperitif is as bright and as orange as the sunshine and, despite its innocent appearance, it’s conspiring with the sun to make me woozy. The spacious Piazza Bra’ is humming with people enjoying the colourful flower stalls on this perfect spring morning, and food stalls proffering delicacies from around Italy produce inviting aromas. There’s a gentle drone of cars in the distance as I sink into a reverie and revisit my mini-break in this pretty medieval town in the southwest of the Veneto region. Verona is probably best known for Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet, and indeed the courtyard where Juliet’s balcony was supposed to have been draws an endless stream of visitors, many of them teenagers on school trips, eager to add their message of love on the already overly-scribbled wall. Star-struck lovers aside, Juliet’s house and balcony are worth a fleeting visit before exploring the historic centre, which is compact and easily walkable. The beautiful Piazza Erbe with its surrounding medieval and Renaissance architecture is just nearby, and if you cast your eye upwards you can enjoy the stunning frescoes adorning the façades. I feel as if I’m in a bit of a tourist trap in Piazza Erbe because of the proximity to the ‘balcony’ and the tacky tourist stalls, so I head for the ➤ ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 65

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Verona

© Mirko Sose of Selective Travel

48 HOURS IN…

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

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ARENA 1 % +39 045 800 3204 Built in the 1st century AD, a 12th century earthquake destroyed most of the outside walls – only a small section remains. Seating 25,000, it is the most famous landmark in Verona. The season runs from June to September.

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JULIET’S BALCONY 2 % +39 045 803 4303 Set in the courtyard of Juliet’s House (entrance to the courtyard is free) the 13th century house belonged to the Dal Cappello family, whose coat of arms is visible above the inner-archway of the courtyard. Free entrance with the Verona Card.

VENETO & BEYOND

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ROMAN THEATRE 3 % +39 045 800 0360 Across the Ponte Pietra is one of Italy’s best preserved Roman theatres, which is now used for performances in the summer. Free entrance with the Verona Card.

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CASTELVECCHIO 4 % +39 045 806 2611 The Castle is the largest and most impressive of the Scaligeri buildings, constructed towards the end of their rule. The castle’s inner courtyard is the entrance to the Museum of Veronese Art. Free entrance with the Verona Card.

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PIAZZA ERBE / PIAZZA SIGNORI 5 Piazza delle Erbe was built on the site of the Roman forum. Towards one end there is the Palazzo Maffei. The piazza now hosts permanent stalls surrounded by the 14th century Torre del Guardella and the Casa Mazzanti. Adjacent is Piazza Signori, aka Piazza Dante, and the entrance to the Lamberti Tower.

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JULIET’S TOMB 6 % +39 045 800 0361 The convent San Francesco al Corso has been used as an orphanage and a military store-room, and houses the sarcophagus of Juliet. Today it is a museum of frescoes and also hosts civil wedding ceremonies. Free entrance with the Verona Card.

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DUOMO DI VERONA 7 % +39 045 592813 The Cathedral was built in the 7th century on top of a pre-existing medieval church and has been altered and enlarged in the subsequent centuries. The façade includes both Roman and Gothic elements. There is a Romanesque portal, with its Roman porch. Inside, Titian’s Assunta is in the first chapel to the left. Free for Verona citizens, children, religious people, journalists and members of the military, group leaders (minimum 20 paying), teachers with groups, and those with a Verona Card.

The Verona Arena

DON’T MISS VERONA OPERA SEASON www.arena.it is the official website. The season runs between June and September and you can check out the programme and book your tickets online. Some highlights this year include Carmen, Turandot, Romeo and Juliet and Madame Butterfly.

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➤ nearby Torre dei Lamberti, which offers a great view of the city. All I can hear is my own breath as I climb the 368 steps to the top of the belfry tower. As the first visitor of the day, I’m completely alone during my ascent. Hitchcock’s Vertigo springs to my mind. The bell tower is 84 metres high and I can only hope James Stewart will be on hand to catch me should I fall! Adjacent to Piazza Erbe is Piazza dei Signori. It’s a small, charming square and the equally charming Nicola is on hand at the Impero pizzeria with the best prosciutto in town. It’s light, fluffy and full of flavour and I close my eyes to savour

1290, it’s a great example of Italian gothic architecture and the biggest church in Verona, with high vaulted ceilings and an array of gorgeous chapels all around. From here I wander along the Adige River to the Ponte Pietra. The bridge offers a lovely view of the historic side of town on one side, and the ruins of the Roman theatre and the Castel San Pietro on the other. The greenery across the river is calling me and I head for some cobbled steps leading upwards. I’m not sure where they go as I cannot see any signs but I decide to follow them nonetheless. Charming terracotta-coloured villas and gardens line the steps and

All I can hear is my own breath as I climb the 368 steps to the top of the belfry tower my ‘prosciutto moment’. Juxtaposed with chunks of tasty Parmesan it makes a perfect snack to keep you going (with a spritz aperol of course!) From Piazza dei Signori, I take Corso Anastasia, which leads to the church of Santa Anastasia. Begun in

the quiet cobbled streets. There is only birdsong in my ears. As I continue my climb I reach some deserted but well-kept gardens and enjoy a view of the city and the distinctive curve of the Adige river. Aside from half a dozen belfries, there

WHERE TO STAY

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Flower market in Piazza Bra’

Lunchtime!

gardens. They are a perfect ensemble of nature, art and history dating from the end of the 15th century. They were designed by Agostino Giusti, Knight of the Venetian Republic, as a backdrop for the Giusti Palace and are terraced, so

A beautiful collection of flowers, Roman ruins, grottoes and mythological statues Roman theatre just below dates from the 1st century BC, but the ruins were only unearthed in 1851 as foundations for the Castel San Pietro were being dug. You can’t go into the Castle itself, but there’s a panoramic terrace which is a great opportunity for a photograph. Heading downwards back towards the river, I reach an unassuming portone – but inside my eyes are greeted by the stunning Renaissance Giardino Giusti. Only a handful of people are wandering along the cypress-lined avenues, talking in hushed tones to each other as though afraid of disturbing the surrounding tranquillity of this most beautiful of

you gradually uncover the view over the city. They are also home to one of the oldest labyrinths in Europe, a beautiful collection of flowers, Roman ruins, grottoes and mythological statues. There’s a fantastic belvedere suitably adorned with a mascherone, the grotesque mask of a monster which, legend has it, emits tongues of fire from its mouth. Reluctantly I leave this most tranquil of spots and head back into town across the Ponte Nuovo. Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and most of the palazzi and houses have cellars built on Roman ruins, some of which are open to the public, and many of ➤

DON’T MISS A TRIP TO NEARBY LAKE GARDA If you have time, the Lake is an easy half hour drive away, and there are regular trains. It’s on the Milan-Venice train line. Train rides take between 20-40 minutes to Desenzano. This is the biggest town and the most expensive, but the nicest views of the Lake can be had from Malcesine and Riva.

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GRAND HOTEL 10 Corso Porta Nuova 105 % +39 045 595600 www.grandhotel.vr.it Four-star hotel offering breakfast and hot buffet. Set in an historic building in a very good central location, with comfortable and stylish ensuite rooms. Has an internal garden/courtyard with bar service, sitting area and loungers. A great base for exploring Verona and the area as it is easy to reach all the sights and/or the train station or airport.

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GIULIETTA E ROMEO 11 Vicolo Tre Marchetti 3 % +39 045 800 3554 www.giuliettaeromeo.it Three stars. Superb location near to the Roman Ampitheatre/Arena in a quiet side street in the heart of Verona. Close to all sights and shopping, friendly and helpful staff. Comfortable and elegant rooms have ensuite facilities. The hotel has a small outdoor courtyard with bar service where breakfast can also be taken.

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DE CAPULETI 12 Via del Pontiere 26 % +39 045 800 0154 www.decapuleti.it Bright and modern 35-room hotel (all rooms ensuite), only a few minutes’ walk from all the main sights. Good value, and it has a small wellness area. Three stars.

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are no tall buildings spoiling the view. The skyline appears essentially as it must have been in medieval times, the buildings mainly in warm pink and yellow hues. If you want to escape the hordes, then this is the spot for you. The

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SOGNO DI GIULIETTA 9 Via Capello 2 % +39 045 800 9932 www.sognodigiulietta.it High standard, romantic Dimora storica located in the Casa di Giulietta courtyard and overlooking Juliet’s balcony. Just as the balcony itself is fake, the exact whereabouts of the Capulet family home is unknown, but that of the Montague family does still stand and is within easy walking distance. Truly a great central location in Verona, especially if you are there for the Shakespeare connection. All 16 spacious and stylishly decorated rooms have full ensuite facilities.

© Mirko Sose of Selective Travel

Sant’Anastasia

DUE TORRI HOTEL 8 Piazza S. Anastasia 4 % +39 045 595044 www.duetorrihotels.com A five-star luxury landmark hotel with stylish ensuite rooms in an historic building. Located in a quiet area of Verona, yet still close to all the sights, restaurants and shopping. Attractive roof-top with views over Verona, and restaurant and bar service. Breakfast and hot buffet offered. There is bar service in the hotel courtyard and in the lounge.

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DON’T MISS VERONA CARD The Verona Card is an all-inclusive citypass. €15 for 24 hours or €20 for 72 hours (valid from first entry). Includes free entry to Arena, Sant’Anastasia Church, San Zeno Church, Juliet’s House, San Fermo Church, Duomo, Castelvecchio Museum, Natural History Museum, Radio Museum, Maffeiano Museum, Modern Art Gallery, Roman Theatre, Lamberti Tower, and Juliet’s Tomb. www. turismoverona.eu

€ ●

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PIZZERIA IMPERO 17 Piazza dei Signori 8 % +39 045 803 0160 www.pizzieriaimpero.it Nicola’s in charge of this pizzeria in a secluded corner of the piazza. It’s a trattoria, and a restaurant, with a friendly atmosphere and views over the square.

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ANTICA TRATTORIA ENOTECA AL BERSAGLIERE 16 Via dietro Pallone 1 [email protected] % +39 045 800 4824 www.trattoriaalbersagliere.it Do ask to visit the wine cellar, which dates from 1200 AD or so. This trattoria is one of seven approved by the Comune of Verona for typical regional delicacies, (piatti storici). Leo is on hand to offer some delicious recommendations.

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TRATTORIA FLUVIALE VECIO MULIN 15 Via Sottoriva 42/a [email protected] % +39 045 806 5146 www.veciomulin.com Right on the river with great views at night, and very cosy and atmospheric. A fish trattoria, that also specialises in meat dishes. The tuna is seared to perfection and served with olives, capers and tomatoes.

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ANTICA BOTTEGA DEL VINO 14 Vicolo Scudo di Francia 3 [email protected] [email protected] % +39 045 800 4535 www.anticabottegadelvino.net Famous in Verona and all over Italy for its wine selection. Once a place where intellectuals, poets and writers would hang out. The choice of prestigious and award winning wines is the real attraction here. In fact, there’s always a series of musical or arts events to enjoy here.

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RISTORANTE MAFFEI 13 Piazza Erbe 38 [email protected] % +39 045 8010015 www.ristorantemaffei.it A fantastic place to book for special occasions, this restaurant is in a 17th century palazzo that belonged to the notable Maffei family from San Benedetto. The décor is distinctly Baroque and the plates and settings are sumptuous. For romantic dinners there’s a ‘Romeo and Juliet’ table situated two floors down among the ancient ruins.

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➤ which remain hidden. I drop by the Ristorante Maffei at one end of the Piazza Erbe as I’ve been reliably informed that it has a cellar and dining area in the ancient ruins. Luca Gambaretto, the manager, is only too pleased to guide me down to the cellar and explains that it houses an impressive 7,000 bottles of wine with over 600 labels ranging from local wines to examples from South America and Australia. He shows me the secluded ‘Romeo and Juliet’ table, standing alone among the ruins of the Campidoglio, and which is set aside for very special occasions. He’ll even assign an extra waiter when the table is booked. Back into the sunshine and towards the ‘balcony’ end of Piazza Erbe, via Mazzini leads down towards the Arena, and is the main shopping area. It’s nice to glide along the smooth marble slabs of the pavement, stopping every now and then at an appealing shop window, or to buy an ice cream along the way. My visit couldn’t be complete without entering the famous Arena. Preparations are clearly underway inside with structures going up as the

opera season begins in June and goes through till September. I get a little lost in the dank corridors which I find a tad spooky. How many secrets must they hold? For the gladiators the corridors must have meant safety, and the sunlight of the arena must have signalled death. For me the opposite is true and I make a bid for the sunlight as soon as I can, and sit on the steps soaking up the atmosphere of the auditorium. A school group claps to test out the acoustics and a lovely twinkling sound ripples all around. This summer’s programme includes some of the most popular operas of all time – Carmen, Aida, Carmina Burana, and of course, Romeo and Juliet. I am lucky enough to be staying at the Sogno di Giulietta – Juliet’s Dream – boutique hotel, right in the courtyard of Juliet’s house. My room even overlooks the eponymous balcony. In the evenings the gates are closed to the public, and I can enjoy a contemplative moment alone in the company of Juliet’s statue, and in the peace and quiet of a perfect spring Verona evening. n!

© Mirko Sose of Selective Travel

Salad bar

GETTING THERE

DON’T MISS

➤ BY PLANE Lorenza travelled with Selective Travel Abroad, a family-run travel and tour company specialising in trips to Verona and Lake Garda. All accommodation bookings, excursions and car hire can be booked online at www.selectivetravel.com

SPRITZ APEROL You’ll pick up the recipe here. Add lots of ice to a large white wine glass. Pour over the Aperol, followed by the Prosecco and gin (if using). Stir once and finish with a splash of soda water and a slice of orange.

British Airways, easyJet and Monarch all fly to Verona from Gatwick. Verona’s Valerio Catullo airport is eight miles from the city, a short taxi ride. See www.atv.verona.it for Aerobus information between Verona railway station and the airport. Buses leave every 20 minutes and the journey takes about 20 minutes depending on traffic.

Wine cellar

Verona cityscape from the hillside

➤ KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES (full meal per person, not including wine) € Up to €25 ● € ● € €26-€50 ● € ● € ● € More than €50 ●

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Pizza and beer

© Mirko Sose of Selective Travel

© Mirko Sose of Selective Travel

At the Sogno di Giulietta

VENETO & BEYOND

All photographs © Chris Allsop

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Fresh Mountain Airs Chris Allsop attends the Sound of the Dolomites festival for world-class music in a breath-taking natural setting, and then discovers the unspoiled gem known as ‘Little Venice’…

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Left: Mario Brunello hiking with his Ferrariengineered cello case. Below: WW1 commemorative markers on Monte Pasubio

designed, carbon fibre hiking case. During the trek you pause for impromptu concerts on airy summits or as a pre-dinner treat in cosy mountain inns, before the journey culminates in a final, spectacular outdoor concert. Which is why I had to dust off my rucksack, unnecessarily overload it with wet weather gear after misreading the forecast, and join Brunello for this year’s musical/mountain foray. THE WHITE WAR To mark the centenary of the Great War, Brunello was joined this year by the Signum Saxophone Quartet. Comprising a Slovenian, a Croatian and two German musicians, this melodious multinational blend was designated the ‘Peace Orchestra’. Furthermore, our path was to traverse a section of the Eastern Front – in these picturesque Alpine heights, Italians had doggedly fought the Austro-Hungarian army at altitudes frequently exceeding 2,000 metres and in often sub-zero conditions – a three-year attritional engagement called la Guerra ➤

To mark the centenary of the Great War, world-class Italian cellist Mario Brunello was joined this year by the Signum Saxophone Quartet

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T

he hills are alive with the sound of music. Except this is northeast Italy, not Austria, and it might be a tad rude – if not inaccurate – to label the soaring Dolomites as ‘hills’. But there is certainly music, and at high elevation, which is all part of the annual Sound of the Dolomites festival. Taking place each year over July and August, the Sound of the Dolomites is a series of openair concerts (classical, jazz, and world music) set amid the grassy amphitheatres and limestone sound stages of Trentino’s mountainous north. Central to the festival’s success is the participation of Mario Brunello, a world-class Italian cellist who revels in the “purity” of music-making among the lofty peaks. As Brunello gets closer to nature, the festival allows the public to get closer to Brunello. For €355 (most festival events are free) attendees can hike through alpine splendour alongside the maestro – who totes his antique Maggini cello in a Ferrari-

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT ➤ CASA DEL PITTORE  Via Acquedotto 8  % +39 0464 486856  www.casadelpittore.it  The four-star Casa Del Pittore has the atmosphere of a boutique hotel combined with the warmth of a B&B, thanks to the gracious hospitality of owners Eliana and Roberto. Perched in a tranquil spot a very manageable ten minute walk from the city centre, prices for double rooms start from €90 and include a delicious buffet breakfast featuring Eliana and Roberto’s homemade cakes.

VENETO & BEYOND

➤ HOTEL ROVERETO Corso Rosmini 82/D   % +39 0464 435222   www.hotelrovereto.it   Charming three star located within easy walking distance of Rovereto’s main tourist draws and the train station. A double room will set you back €103 (€115 with breakfast), with views of the mountains or the Old Town available. ➤ RESIDENCE DEL MESSAGGERO Vicolo del Messaggero 6-11   % +39 0464 489120 www.residencemessaggero.it      Modern and comfortable self-catering apartments available to rent in the city centre. Ideal for families and larger groups, or simply if you don’t want to be confined in a hotel. Prices start at €220 for three days.

➤ RESTAURANT LA TERRAZZA SUL LENO    Via Setaioli 2   % +39 0464 435151 www.laterrazzasulleno.it   Best pizza in town – wood-fired and good value. Enjoy it al fresco on the comfortable terrace with views over the River Leno. The restaurant fills with locals on the weekend, so be sure to arrive early or reserve wisely. Cost for two dining with a bottle of wine: €70 (€30 if just two eating pizza).

➤ RESTAURANT 900 DELL’HOTEL ROVERETO    Corso Rosmini 82/D   % +39 0464 435454 www.hotelrovereto.it    With its colourful interior and relaxed ambiance, Restaurant 900 is a popular choice with the locals. The menu offers regional as well as national dishes, and the homemade pasta using organic flour is melt in the mouth delicious. It also offers deepish dish sourdough pizza that is a brave and tasty departure from the national norm. Cost for two dining with a bottle of wine: €100 ➤ OSTERIA DEL PETTIROSSO    Corso Bettini 24   % +39 0464 422463 www.osteriadelpettirosso.it    Restaurant and wine bar about five minutes’ walk from the MART. With 500 wines on the list and regional tipples taking pride of place, this is the place to explore Trentino’s viticultural tastescape. Cost for two dining with a bottle of wine: €80

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➤ Bianca, or White War. As we

Clockwise from top left: An impromptu concert at Rifugio Achille Papa; a concert in a warcarved crater on Monte Pasubio; the Signum Saxophone Quartet accompanied Brunello; trumpet gentians; hiking the man-made tunnels of the White War; talks and tunnels on the former front line

walked, I chatted with members of our 58-strong group. Sergio from Genoa – a die-hard, middle-aged Sound of the Dolomites lifer – has made a number of close friends from all over the country through his 20 years of loyal festival going. Others asked for an explanation of my overstuffed rucksack. “When Mario is with us,” local Maddalena responded, “it does not rain.” Maddalena’s female friends laughed, and I began to understand why silver fox Brunello’s wife was also on the hike… Our first impromptu classical concert took place in a ragged roofed cave (beat that, Beatles) with surprisingly good acoustics – one of 52 tunnels carved into the Monte Pasubio mountainside by the Italian army in 1916. The tunnels, known as the ‘Road of the First Army Corps’, are one feature of the wider Parco della Memoria or Great War Memorial Park of Trentino, the umbrella term covering the region’s visible wartime legacy. Trails crisscross the park, including the 500km Peace Path

that hugs the former front line. Along its route you’ll encounter abandoned artillery, gravitydefying forts clinging to rock walls, as well as used cartridges and fragments from soldiers’ boots scattered amid the tiny amethyst, yellow, and powder blue flowers that border the trails. Over the first two days, we enjoyed three more impromptu concerts – one in a bomb-carved crater; one in a rifugio (traditional Alpine lodge) dining room; and another packed into a tiny church. The rifugios (the first, Achille Papa, named after a WW1 general) were wood-panelled and snug, serving up flasks of wine, pizza antipasti, and hearty mains of venison sausage, tangy sauerkraut, and polenta that reminded you of your arrival at a cultural intersection of Europe. From Achille Papa, bristling peaks smoothed away into lush green foothills that marked the border with neighbouring Veneto province. We tramped down from the heights into soft Alpine meadows thick with dwarf pine (prized for homemade schnapps ➤

Our first impromptu classical concert took place in a ragged roofed cave (beat that, Beatles) with surprisingly good acoustics

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➤

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➤ and sore throat remedies), vivid

blue trumpet gentians, and drifts of rosemary. The final gig was on the afternoon of the third day. Despite it being a Thursday, a 1,000-strong audience of hikers and cyclists began to gather in the garden of Rifugio Vincenzo Lancia and its surrounding countryside. Beers were swigged in the sunshine and friends greeted one another while the musicians set up. Brunello and Signum treated us to a set list of pieces written between 1914 and 1918 by artists such as Stravinsky and Haydn, before concluding with a sombrely beautiful composition by George Butterworth, a promising English composer who was killed in action at the Somme. According to Maddalena’s friend, Isabella, there wasn’t a dry eye among her party by the concert’s close. EXPLORING ROVERETO At the end of the concert we hiked to our minibus for the return journey to Rovereto, Trentino’s unspoiled second city. Often overlooked in favour of larger, more

northerly Trento (recently voted Italy’s ‘Best City for Quality of Life’ by Italian daily Il Sole 24 Ore) this works in Rovereto’s favour, by thinning out the numbers of tourists and maintaining the city’s attractive insouciance. Lying in a terraced valley and surrounded by peaks, Rovereto is a picturesque one-hour drive up the vine-carpeted Lagarina Valley from Verona airport. You can’t miss the striking Castello di Avio, sliding down the valley walls like a Dali clock (less distinct, but no less evocative is a rocky hillside on your right as you approach the city: Dante designated this an entrance to hell in his Inferno). A city of art, war, and cycling, Rovereto’s residents zip around the streets on road bikes, and you can join them by hiring a bicycle from the e.motion stands dotted around town. Find one by the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Trento and Rovereto, known more succinctly as the MART, and one of the city’s major tourism draws (the MART has recently been joined by Trento’s MUSE: a science museum designed by Renzo Piano).

Opened in 2002, the MART houses a collection of international stature, but do look out too for works by the futurist artist Fortunato Depero, a local whose caryatid sculpture can be seen gilding a hat shop façade in the beautifully preserved Old Town. AN EMBEDDED HISTORY In fact, as you stroll around the compact Old Town, you come across numerous hints – like Depero’s sculpture, for example – of Rovereto’s historical and cultural legacy. Daubs of tell-tale Venetian chequer swell up on alley walls like refined street art, ready reminders that the city used to be a part of the Venetian Empire – the Old Town is often referred to as ‘Little Venice’ for its architectural echoes of La Serenissima. Shells embedded in walls commemorate the city’s war-torn past: during WW1, the front line once split Rovereto right down the middle. You can learn about the history (provided you can read Italian) at the 14th century Castello di Rovereto that looms above the Old Town, now the exhibition space for

At the end of the concert, we hiked to our minibus for the return journey to Rovereto, Trentino’s unspoiled second city – often overlooked in favour of more northerly Trento

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GETTING THERE ➤ Verona is the closest airport to Rovereto. EasyJet flies regularly from Gatwick, KLM and Air France from Birmingham, and Lufthansa from Manchester. Upon arrival, those travelling by train can catch the regular shuttle bus service from the airport to Verona railway station and jump on the north running Bolzano train (an hour and a half journey). Those with rental cars can take the A22 toll road for the quickest route at just under an hour.

INFORMATION ➤ www.visittrentino.it General Trentino tourism website that covers the entire region: from the Alps to the Mediterranean; from the crisp mountain air of the Dolomites to the mild, balmy climate of Lake Garda.

➤ www.visitrovereto.it More location-specific tourism website that concentrates on the town of Rovereto and the surrounding district of Vallagarina (known in German as Lagertal). Holiday offers; arts and culture; mountains in summer; mountains in winter.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Chris Allsop is a freelance writer and photographer. He’s probably more what the Italians would call a “Sunday walker” and was glad to be able to keep up while hiking with musicians in the Trentino Dolomites.

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Clockwise from left: Colourful Via Niccolo Paganini near the MART; Friday morning coffee in Piazza Cesare Battisti, by the Fountain of Neptune; the Rovereto bell tower and part of the castle wall; a statue of Mary and Jesus outside the Church of St Mark; concert goers arrived by a variety of means of transport

the superb and exhaustive Italian War History Museum. A marble plaque found in Via Mercerie commemorates the site where Mozart performed his first ever concert in Italy, in 1769 – apparently, Rovereto was a favourite with the Mozarts, as was the regional red wine, Marzemino. Procure a bottle next door from the eclectic Drogheri Giuseppe Micheli, while the deli opposite is the perfect spot to taste test the local Grana Trentino hard cheese. For coffee, find Piazza Cesare Battisti with its distinctive Neptune fountain and where the café, like most in the Old Town, seems perfectly positioned to glory in the warm afternoon light. Your velvety macchiato will be made with Bontadi beans: headquartered in Rovereto, this is Italy’s oldest coffee brand, its rich, roasting aromas a fixture in the backstreets since 1790. But, ultimately, you can’t escape the legacy of war in Rovereto… or the music. Perched on a hillside above the city is the gargantuan Bell of the Fallen, a tolling bell memorial fashioned from melted down Great War artillery. Its regular, sonorous tones echo off the valley walls as dusk descends, its peals a plea to hit the bars, order a Negroni, and make some new friends. n!

VIEWPOINT Located just 25 miles south of Venice, the commune of Rosolina has been included in the list of the 100 greatest small towns in Italy. Undoubtedly this is partly due to the beautiful Giardino Botanico Litoraneo di Porto Caleri... all to be found here. If you’re lucky, you might even get to see a small water turtle! The area has some interesting history too, as you’ll witness when you see the old abandoned houses lining the gardens. During the summer months, the gardens are open a few days a week for you to see the ecosystems in all their splendour. A true Italian feat of beauty that merits an ! explore when you visit Rosolina. n

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At nearly 23 hectares, this botanical garden and nature reserve consists of salt marshes, indigenous vegetation, and pine and elm forests. The most notable native plant to be found here is the orchid, which can be examined much more closely by using one of three footpaths in the area. If you are looking for some rare Italian birds, the Sardinian warblers, red and grey herons, nightingales and succhia-capra are

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TEN BEST SKI RESORTS Giant ski areas, spectacular scenery and a laid-back culture on the slopes – Italy offers some of Europe’s very best skiing. Plus, it’s less expensive and less crowded than rival Alpine nations. Deep in the white stuff, Fleur Kinson names Italia!’s chosen ten of the best resorts…

Alagna

Alps, Piedmont: 25 miles southwest of Milan (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€35 per day, six days c.€200 Offers: 19 lifts Best for: Experts Transfer time: 2hrs from Milan Malpensa WITH A CULT FOLLOWING AMONG SERIOUS SKIERS, Little Alagna is a picturesque village centred on an old stone church ringed by meandering streets. Traditional Swiss-style wooden farmhouses add piquant local colour, although the majority of buildings here are modern. A whole clutch of mountains spiral round the horizon, giving the place a majestic, away-from-the-rest-of-the-world feel.

Alagna itself has only 15km of piste, but the tremendous scope the place offers for off-piste exploring makes it a major lure for powderhounds. Long, glorious snowfields thrill and challenge expert skiers, and heli-skiing is available. Alagna also boasts the most vertical skiing slope in Italy, making for imaginably thrilling descents. But mere intermediates need not stay away from this impressively athletic resort. In addition to its own pistes, Alagna links skiers to some excellent fellow resorts in the Monterosa ski area, namely Gressoney and Champoluc – both of which are especially good for intermediates. The Monterosa Ski lift pass gives you access to all resorts, with a total 73km of piste. Note that Alagna’s après-ski scene is very limited. People come here because they’re dedicated to skiing rather than to partying or designer shopping. Many aim for an early night and a clear head in the morning, because they can’t wait to get out into that spectacular open terrain as early as possible each day.

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with picturesque villages, brilliant slopes and stupendous natural scenery. The two biggest of these are the northeast’s ‘Dolomiti Superski’ area, with its 1,220km of top-quality piste, and the northwest’s wonderful Alpine ‘Milky Way’ – a galaxy of superb resorts together offering a still impressive 400km of slopes. Italy certainly has the world-class pistes and stylish resorts you’re looking for, but it also has that laid-back, convivial charm that this country does so well. The atmosphere in Italian ski resorts is a bit friendlier and more relaxed than in France or Switzerland. Impressive athletes they may be, but Italian skiers don’t take themselves too seriously, and are chiefly concerned with having communal fun. There’s a lot of fine eating, drinking and snowy sunbathing, and a lot of smiling faces. If all this isn’t enough to convince you to take your next ski holiday in Italy, there are two more pluses to note. It’s cheaper to ski in Italy than in its neighbour nations, and the crowds are thinner so there’s more space for you on the slopes. All things considered, shouldn’t Italy be at the very top of the list for your next ski trip?

Photography © iStock unless stated otherwise

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eirdly, Italy isn’t usually one of the first countries people think of when asked to name the best places to ski. “France!” they cry, “Austria! Switzerland!” and then maybe concede Italy somewhere much further down the list. But Italy has so much going for it as a ski destination that it’s tempting to say you’d be mad to go anywhere else. First of all, there’s the sheer range of options available. Mountains occupy a whopping three quarters of Italy’s national landscape, and there are ski resorts to be found in every region of the country except for Puglia. (Yes, you can even ski down a volcano in Sicily.) The premier resorts lie in the north, of course, where the high, celestial Alps stretch for hundreds of miles across the top of the nation and meet with the beautiful, sculptural peaks of the Dolomites, where you can also ski. And down the full length of Italy’s boot-shaped peninsula, the lower but still skiable Apennines unfurl for six hundred miles. The north boasts some truly gigantic ski areas – interconnected networks of perfectly-equipped resorts

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Courmayeur

Photograph © Shutterstock

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Alps, Valle d’Aosta: 60 miles northwest of Turin (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€46, six days c.€234 Offers: 18 lifts, slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates Transfer time: 1hr20 from Geneva, 1hr40 from Turin ONE OF THE VERY BEST ALL-ROUND SKI RESORTS in Italy, pretty Courmayeur sits in the lee of Europe’s tallest mountain, Mont Blanc. The views, the slopes and the nightlife all ensure a dedicated clientele. The core of the town is a traditional Alpine village, all cobbled streets and cosy chalets, now sporting plenty of slick designer boutiques and stylish cocktail bars. Both down in town and up on the mountain, stupendously good eateries are the norm. Chic Milanese and Torinese roll into Courmayeur in their finery every weekend to ski a little but relax a lot – they are generally keener to party than hit the piste, which means the slopes are surprisingly uncrowded. Courmayeur is very good for beginners and intermediates. Seriously advanced skiers, meanwhile, will relish the resort’s many off-piste opportunities – which include the Valle Blanche, the world’s longest and arguably most scenic off-piste run. You can also ski over the border into France to see what Chamonix has to offer. Snowboarders are great fans of Courmayeur, and their numbers here further enhance the liveliness of the après-ski scene. Cross-country skiers also like the place – relishing its 35km of beautiful trails. With accommodation ranging from cute B&Bs to simple chalet apartments to super-luxurious hotels, Courmayeur is not solely the preserve of the well-heeled. There’s a good mix of people here, brought together by a love of skiing and of simply having a great time eating, drinking and/or dancing halfway up a mountain on a winter’s night.

VENETO & BEYOND Mountains occupy a whopping three quarters of Italy’s national landscape, and there are ski resorts to be found in every region of the country except for Puglia

La Villa

Dolomites, Trentino-Alto Adige: 80 miles north of Venice (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€40, six days c.€210 Offers: 11 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Beginners and children Transfer time: 1hr10 from Bologna, 2hr10 from Venice TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE IS A CHARMINGLY JUMBLED CORNER OF THE WORLD. Dark wooden Hansel-and-Gretel chalets and Gothic lettering make you think you’re in Bavaria or Austria, while sleekly-dressed Italians doing the evening passeggiata remind you you’re in Italy. The language? Well, it can be anything from German to Italian to Ladin – an obscure tongue spoken only in these parts. Picturesque La Villa (‘La Ila’ in Ladin, ‘Stern’ in German) is especially recommended for beginners and for skiers who

are also gourmets. This is for the simple reason that there are 18 Michelin-starred restaurants hereabouts, in an area the size of north Devon. Some cater to the little mountain huts or rifugi, and charge very little. Ringed by spectacular scenery, La Villa’s abundant wide, gentle slopes allow newbies and youngsters to safely learn the art of skiing. There are pistes for intermediates too, plus a terrain park for snowboarders and 10km of cross-country ski trails. Expert skiers might already be familiar with La Villa as the place you arrive at the end of the hair-raising ride down the monstrously difficult Gran Riso slope. As a high-altitude resort, snow cover is very reliable. La Villa has 19 slopes with a total length of 25km, but it’s part of the Alta Badia ski area with 130km of slopes and also of the Dolomiti Superski area with more than 1,100km. Ski passes for either or both areas will give you access to a huge amount of terrain. ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 81

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Cortina d’Ampezzo

Dolomites, the Veneto: 80 miles north of Venice (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€46, six days c.€235 Offers: 34 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates and experts Transfer time: 1hr50 from Bolzano, Treviso or Venice

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PERCHED ON A HIGH PLATEAU ringed by the elegant needle-like peaks of the Dolomites, this ancient mountain town full of chalets, fin-de-siècle mansions and soaring belltowers is physically beautiful in every way. Little surprise, then, that it attracts the beautiful people – the rich, the famous, the sophisticated as well as the über-athletic – nor that the resort has become a film star in its own right. Some memorable James Bond stunt sequences in For Your Eyes Only were filmed here, as were several scenes in Sylvester Stallone’s Cliffhanger. Cortina’s

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charms are seemingly endless. Not just its beauty, lifestyle and atmosphere, but its individuality. Locals speak the obscure language Ladin amongst themselves, and cars are forbidden from the heart of the village. The delicious ambience and sheer leisure-paradise feel of Cortina risks distracting visitors (and reviewers) from the stupendous quality of the skiing on offer here. There are 115km of marked slopes, some tricky black runs, and countless off-piste opportunities in good snow conditions. Beginners are well-catered-for, too, with some great ski schools. Cortina is also connected by a free bus to the Sella Ronda circuit (all covered on the Dolomiti Superski pass). Extreme skiing and the wonderful ‘Slow Ski’ experience are options in Cortina. You can also try out ice polo, curling, snow-kiting… Of course, if your preferred sports are Michelin-star dining and shopping for antiques and designer goods, Cortina will also suit you perfectly. This might not be the most inexpensive ski resort in Italy, but it’s surely one of the most seductive.

Alps, Valle d’Aosta: 60 miles north of Turin (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: one day c.€40, six days c.€210 Offers: 24 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Beginners and intermediates Transfer time: 1hr35 from Turin ‘CERVINIA’ IS THE ITALIAN NAME FOR THE MATTERHORN, and this high-altitude resort sits on the opposite side of the iconic mountain from better-known Zermatt in Switzerland. As a purpose-built ski town, Cervinia is marred by dull modern architecture, but it makes up for this with some fabulous long runs and very reliable natural snow-cover. In Cervinia you get to ski the same area as people

in Zermatt, and eat in restaurants that are just as good, if not better, but all for significantly less expense. The easy gradients of some of Cervinia’s exceptionally long runs allow beginners and intermediates to build up enormous confidence. More advanced skiers, meanwhile, have plenty of challenging terrain in the area to explore. The 8km Ventina red run, for example, is recommended for its steep, nearly 2,000m descent in altitude and the wonderful views it affords on the way of super-high Alpine peaks. Or you might opt to pursue the whopping 22km run from Klein Matterhorn in Switzerland down to Valtournenche in Italy. Cervinia itself has 160km of piste covered on the local lift pass, but explorers further afield can pay extra for the international lift pass (take your passport!) and bump up their options to a total of 360km of piste. Skiing in and out of Italy and Switzerland always holds a particular charm.

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Cervinia

Madonna di Campiglio

Brenta Dolomites, Trentino: 55 miles north of Verona (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: one day c.€44, six days c.€210 Offers: 24 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates Transfer time: 2hr10 from Verona, 2hr15 from Brescia THIS CHIC AND LOVELY RESORT in the dramatic Brenta Dolomites has certainly racked up many ‘bests’ and ‘one-of-the-bests’. Some skiers deem it the best in Italy. Others specify it offers some of the best intermediate skiing, has the best piste grooming, has one of the best lift systems, the best snowboarding facilities… Clearly this is a resort worth anyone’s attention. The town itself is delightful, with dark wooden chalets and a soaring slender church spire. The visitors it attracts are interesting to look at too – well-heeled, fashion-conscious types who parade round town in gorgeous coats, sip pretty cocktails in Madonna’s sophisticated bars, and later let their hair down in some of its excellent clubs. The resort’s wonderful ski area extends over 150km, with integrated lifts linking to the Folgarida and Marivella areas. Intermediates will relish the long cruising trails which take you in and out of wooded areas and give a real sense of ‘journeying’. Beginners will find a good, sizeable ski school in Madonna, while expert skiers can request off-piste guiding or try the Canal Miramonti run down Monte Spinale and the famous 3Tre run. Snowboarders will feel very welcome in Madonna, which was one of the first winter resorts to see a future in the sport and invest in facilities. Note that Madonna di Campiglio is part of the Skirama Dolomiti Adamello-Brenta ski area, and that the right ski pass will give you access to a handful of nearby resorts offering a total 380km of downhill skiing served by 150 ski lifts. ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 83

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Sestriere

Alps, Piedmont: 40 miles west of Turin (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: one day c.€30, six days c.€185 Offers: 66 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates Transfer time: 1hr30 from Turin

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PERCHED AMIDST BEAUTIFUL ALPINE PEAKS on a plateau at an altitude of 2,035 metres, Sestriere is the main resort in the delicious ‘Milky Way’ (‘Via Lattea’) skiing area – linking Sauze d’Oulx, Pragelato, Claviere, Cesana Torinese, San Sicario and Montgenèvre. So you can explore far and wide, skiing to different villages and making use of 146 skiable pistes with a total of 400km in trails. Sestriere is particularly well-suited to intermediate skiers and snowboarders. But there are some significant runs for advanced skiers, and a quarter of all slopes are suitable for beginners or children. Since it first came into being in the 1930s as one of the world’s first purposebuilt ski resorts, Sestriere has hosted various Olympic events and other worldclass skiing and boarding competitions. The 2006 Turin Winter Olympics were the most recent. So you can expect a high-quality infrastructure here. In particular, Sestriere’s artificial snow-making operations are excellent, and this combined with the resort’s high altitude make for more or less guaranteed snow cover. Sestriere also keeps a floodlit run for night skiing.

Madesimo

Alps, Lombardy: 70 miles north of Milan (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€35, six days c.€200 Offers: 18 lifts, slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates Transfer time: 2hr10 from Milan Linate THIS CHARMING OLD VILLAGE and its slopes 20 miles north of Lake Como are greatly loved by Italian families but remain relatively unknown to British skiers. Friendly and inexpensive, Madesimo is well worth getting to know. With 32 pistes covering 55km, its ski area might not be extensive, but there’s a great deal of variety in the terrain. The runs suit intermediate-level skiers well, and there is also some challenging fare for experts – including one of the greatest European runs,

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the ungroomed Catalone itinerary, which whooshes down 1,000 vertical metres. Snowboarders are fans of Madesimo, and for them there’s a terrain park and four half pipes. Cross-country skiers, meanwhile, lap up the 10km of trails here. A high-altitude resort set above 1,500m and with pistes above 2,500m, Madesimo enjoys assured snow cover throughout the ski season. In the rare case of a dry spell, more than half the pistes have snowmaking facilities. There’s an impressive range of restaurants and bars, with prices a fraction of those in betterknown ski resorts. Especially well-regarded is the Dogana Vegia restaurant on the edge of town, set in a 17th-century former Customs House with a roaring fireplace and a collection of antique curios. Madesimo fills up at the weekend with visitors from Milan and Bergamo, but come in the week and you’ll find it blissfully uncrowded.

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Once an old rustic mountain town, Sauze d’Oulx became an aristocratic retreat in the 19th century and has evolved since then into an extremely popular ski destination

Sauze d’Oulx

Alps, Piedmont: 40 miles west of Turin (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: one day c.€36, six days c.€160 Offers: 22 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates Transfer time: 1hr20 from Turin SAUZE D’OULX IS THE SLIGHTLY PRETTIER, slightly more populous neighbour of Sestriere. Once an old rustic mountain town, it became an aristocratic retreat in the 19th century and has evolved since then into an extremely popular ski destination. Dubbed ‘Ibiza-on-snow’ in the 1980s, Sauze still knows how to put on a party, but today it attracts a wide range of ages and you can enjoy as much or as little après-ski hijinks here as you like. It’s a family-friendly place drawing an international clientele and English is very widely spoken.

Sauze is part of the wonderful Milky Way network of ski resorts, giving you access to 400km of pistes served by 92 lifts. There are some great off-piste opportunities in Sauze, and guides available to help you make the most of them. Expert skiers will also want to explore the nearby black runs of the Milky Way. Intermediates, meanwhile, will thoroughly enjoy Sauze’s treelined slopes, and beginners are well-served by its very good ski and snowboard schools. As elsewhere in the Milky Way, Sauze has excellent snow-making facilities if needed. Sauze d’Oulx’s wacky-looking name, by the way, is variously pronounced “Sowz-e-dolks,” “Sowz-e-dooz” or “Sowz-e-doo”. The name could hardly be more fascinating if you’re interested in etymology. The ‘Sauze’ bit comes from the word for ‘rocky place’ in a long-lost pre-Indo-European language, while ‘Oulx’ derives from the name of a god or ancient clan-leader in the Franco-Provençal, or Arpitan, dialect still spoken in these valleys. Exotic stuff!

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Selva Gardena

Dolomites, Trentino-Alto Adige: 80 miles north of Venice (as the crow flies) Adult skipass: One day c.€45, six days c.€235 Offers: 81 lifts; slopes to suit all levels Best for: Intermediates and cross-country Transfer time: 2hr15 from Verona, 2hr40 from Brescia

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SELVA IS AN OLD TYROLEAN VILLAGE spectacularly set at the head of the Val Gardena under the solid rock walls of Sassolungo and the Gruppo del Sella. It has a good mix of slopes for all levels – some wooded and others open. Although the village is marred somewhat by being strung along a main road, Selva Gardena is an appealingly low-key, good-value resort, and a key spot for skiers pursuing the wonderful Sella

STAYING AND SKIING ➤ All of the resorts featured offer a range of excellent hotels and chalet options to cater for a wide range of budgets. If you’re looking for self accommodation whilst visiting your chosen ski resort then check out what’s available at www.lakecomohomes.com (click on the Ski Italy button).

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Ronda circuit. It’s also part of the extensive Dolomiti Superski group of resorts. This area was for many years part of Austria, and German is still more widely spoken than Italian in Selva Gardena (or ‘Wolkenstein’ as Teutons term the village.) The local language Ladin also survives, leading to some exotic signage in three tongues. The altitude here is not terribly high, despite the glorious scenery that usually means you’re way, way up, but Selva has superb snow-making facilities which mean snow cover is not a problem. And the grooming of pistes is excellent. Intermediate skiers will relish Selva’s wide opportunities for fast cruising on easy slopes. Beginners will benefit from a good local ski school, but they’ll have to take a short bus to reach the long, gentle runs. Experts will find some good slopes, but not much in the way of off-piste because of the nature of the terrain here. Cross-country skiers, meanwhile, will be delighted by the 115km of scenic trails accessible from Selva.

Photography © Mark Nicholls

All Quiet on the Eastern Front

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he peaks are sharp and jagged, forming a ruggedly stunning backdrop across the Dolomites. This is a landscape considered so impressive that it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With 18 peaks rising to above 3,000 metres and a beautiful mountain landscape of vertical walls, sheer cliffs and a high density of narrow, deep and long valleys, the terrain poses tantalising challenges to hikers and climbers and, in the depths of winter, downhill and cross country skiers. Yet after the snows have melted, evidence of an incredible wartime history is revealed. It is a landscape criss-crossed with trenches, manmade caverns, gullies and the incredible via ferrata, the “iron-road” forming an intricate system of wires

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Mark Nicholls visits the Dolomites and discovers an oft-forgotten aspect of World War One history…

that enabled troops to move swiftly and nimbly through the mountains. It may seem half a world away from the muddy squalor of the trenches of the Western Front. But the rocky terrain and mountain trails of the Dolomites are just as much a part of the World War One frontline as the poppy-strewn fields of Belgium and France. Rather than being a network of trenches dug from the earth of open farmland and meadow, these are trenches hewn from limestone rock, where the troops of the AustroHungarian Empire faced their Italian foe in the passes, summits and ridges of the Dolomites. While the lie of the land may have been different, the war of attrition and its outcomes were similar to those of Flanders Fields: long, drawn-out months of little movement punctuated by short

pitched battles with both sides gaining or losing a few metres of ground, and always with great loss of life. Today, in the Dolomites above the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, the network of tunnels and vie ferrate remain an eerie legacy of a war fought a century ago. It wasn’t until June 1915 that war came to Cortina d’Ampezzo, which had been part of the AustroHungarian Empire for 400 years. But as conflict destabilised Europe, an opportunistic Italian army saw a chance to re-take the territory. I began my exploration in the Passo Valparola, just above an abandoned Austrian fortress, with my guide, Paolino Tassi. Before long, we are in trenches carved out of the dolomite rock, a form of limestone. There are chambers, machine gun emplacements and

The view from the Austrian lookout seems picturesque today, but this was the scene of some of the most terrible fighting of the Great War

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Troops’ quarters are preserved deep within the rock tunnel on Mount Lagazuoi

It wasn’t until June 1915 that war came to Cortina d’Ampezzo, which had been part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for 400 years the remains of a kitchen; the walls, which offered Austro-Hungarian forces shelter from the Italian guns, soar five metres above. Hundreds of thousands of troops were dug into this area some 17km up the valley from the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, which often remained untouched by the entrenched fighting a short distance away. Tens of thousands and more died; from the fighting, the cold or falls, with up to 60,000 swept to their deaths by avalanches. “It was cold in the winter, particularly harsh in 1916, with 20

metres of snow, and that is when many thousands of men died in avalanches,” explained Paolino. Nearby is Cinque Torri – the five towers – an area made famous by English and French climbers and still as popular with mountaineers today as it was in the carefree times before WWI. The appeal is the steep sides of the Grande Torre, the Romano Torre and the smaller English Tower, which are all visible from Cortina in the distance. Yet beneath is the Italian fallback line with its lookout posts and supply routes…

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➤

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The Cinque Torri (Five Towers) was made famous by the exploits of the French and British climbers who came here before the outbreak of war

These tunnels were built for the movement of troops and supplies

My halt for the night is at a mountain refuse in perhaps one of the most famous parts of the WWI remains on Mount Lagazuoi. Taking the Funivia del Lagazuoi cable car up to Rifugio Lagazuoi, at 2,752 metres above sea level, the panorama reaching out from the refuge offers some of the most magnificent views over the Dolomites, while behind you lies the Austrian mountain troop path, and hidden within the mountain below is an incredible network of tunnels constructed by the Italians. As I relax in the cosy mountain retreat with a glass of red wine, hikers – some in pairs, others in larger groups – roll in for the night. Guido Pompanin, who runs the Rifugio Lagazuoi with his wife Alma, explains that most guests are hikers who stay for one night and then move on to another refuge as

they hike around the Dolomites. Some are interested in the wartime remains, others more enamoured of the spectacular landscape. “We have 74 rooms, some are in dormitories but there are some private rooms, and we also have a sauna which is popular,” explains Guido. “Our guests are from all over the world – Japan, New Zealand, Germany, America, England and Russia – and they stay for food and a bed and then move on. All the rifugios in the mountains are family businesses and we work well with each other.” The following morning, with the sky bright blue and billowing white clouds giving context to the mountain, I follow Paolino down around the cable car station, put on harnesses, helmets and a headlight and slip into the tunnels of Lagazuoi.

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WHERE TO STAY AND EAT ➤ HOTEL ANCORA  Corso Italia, 62 – Cortina d´Ampezzo  % +39 0436 3261  www.hotelancoracortina.com  Centrally located and the oldest hotel in Cortina d’Ampezzo, this was built in 1826 in the characteristic Ampezzano style with wooden balconies and intricately-carved and painted interior details. It has an excellent restaurant for lunch and dinner. Rates start from €80 per person per day in a double room with buffet breakfast.

➤ RIFUGIO LAGAZUOI

VENETO & BEYOND

Monte Lagazuoi, Cortina d’Ampezzo % +39 340 719 5306   www.rifugiolagazuoi.com   Set in a stunning location right at the top of the Funivia del Lagazuoi cable car route, with a restaurant and dormitory or private rooms for hikers. Prices in private rooms are €37 for a bed, €63 for half-board. Dormitory rooms are €28, €52 for half-board. Breakfast separately is €10.

➤ EL BRITE DE LARIETO Località Larieto Strada per Passo Tre Croc, Cortina d’Ampezzo   % +39 368 700 8083 www.elbritedelarieto.it      Just above Cortina d’Ampezzo is an agriturismo establishment with a restaurant in a traditional mountainside hut. Run by the Gaspari family, chef Riccardo Gaspari specialises in offering traditional Dolomite cuisine with a modern twist. Most of the food is produced on the farm, which has 35 cows and calves, 50 goats and 10 pigs. Dinner for two is €80.

Top right: This is not France or Belgium, with their carefully preserved memorials to the fallen, yet it is difficult to ignore the fact that this terrain was one of the most fearsomely fought over areas of Europe in the middle of World War 1; the Rifugio Lagazuoi comes highly recommended; Riccardo Gaspari, a former downhill ski racer who now runs the El Brite de Larieto agriturismo

➤ RIFUGIO SCOIATTOLI    Cinque Torri, Cortina d’Ampezzo   % +39 0436 867939 www.rifugioscoiattoli.it   Overlooking Cinque Torri, with the Italian WWI positions nearby and set at 2,255 metres above sea level, the Rifugio Scoiattoli has an excellent restaurant – delicious tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffle oil is €18, soup is €7.50 and goulash €13. An espresso is €1.20, a small beer €2.50, and you can enjoy a glass of wine from €3.

INFORMATION ➤ www.cortina.dolomiti.org ➤ www.skicortinadampezzo.com

GETTING THERE ➤ Mark Nicholls flew with easyJet from London Luton Airport to Venice Marco Polo and took the Cortina Express bus from the airport directly to Cortina d’Ampezzo. The flight took two hours and cost €50 return. British Airways, Monarch and easyJet also fly from other UK airports to Venice.

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Behind is the Austrian mountain troop path and hidden within the mountain below is an incredible network of Italian tunnels Low, narrow dark and damp, they wind down inside the mountainside for almost 300 metres, with the Italian tunnels often a mere few yards away from where their Austrian foe were. There are hidden chambers, look-out posts, gun positions and evidence of supply lines The steps are steep, often slippery, with the porous rock dripping water all along the route. At points, I clip onto the metal wires, the via ferrata used by the Kaiserjäger – the Imperial Austrian army – and their Italian counterparts. It is the via ferrata which often captures the imagination. Now a leisure activity with climbers clipping to metal cables fixed to mountainsides – and often created elsewhere in the world – they were built during the conflict to enable the movement of troops and supplies. There is a huge variety of via ferrata paths in the Dolomites, some are short and easy climbs, others are challenging and require a good level of physical fitness. It can take an hour to cautiously negotiate the ascent, which deposits us on a narrow ledge. Harnessed to this ‘iron road’, we follow a supply path down to the cable car station. As the war in the Dolomites raged, from June 1915 to October 1917, both sides tried to gain the high ground and set up positions and fortifications on the summits and ridges. Paolino explained how the shape of the mountain changed during the course of the conflict as each side packed tons of explosives into chasms and ignited them. “The area was strategically important, with the Italians digging tunnels as they tried to dislodge the Austrians from their vantage point of the mountain top,” he told us. “At one stage in June 1917, they filled a chamber with 32 tonnes of

explosive to try to blast the enemy out of their positions.” The explosion blew the summit off Little Lagazuoi, and while no Austrians were killed, as they fled after hearing the tunnelling, the Italians did secure the position, but the shape of the mountainside was irrevocably changed. We are all too familiar with the wooden lined trenches dug out of the muddy fields of Flanders and Ypres, but this trench network, hewn out of the heart of a mountain, is one of the great engineering feats of World War One. Towards the end of 1917, after an Austrian and German offensive broke through the Italian lines at Caporetto, the Italians retreated from the mountains to defend Venice, leaving behind the trenches, memorials and miles of tunnelling. Yet while the wartime history is powerful and poignant, there is so much more to the landscape: mountain biking, hiking through paths ablaze with summer flowers, and road biking with sharp hairpin bends up the various routes into the high mountains. The Dolomites feature 18 peaks which rise to above 3,000 metres and summer is the most popular season to visit them. But Cortina itself also has a reputation as a picturesque and diverse winter ski resort, renowned as it is for its array of spectacular backdrops. It was initially made famous by hosting the 1956 Winter Olympics – which, incidentally, was the first to be broadcast on TV. Corso Italia is the centre of town with an extensive choice of bars, restaurants, cafes and shops, and there have been many well-known films shot in Cortina d’Ampezzo, including The Pink Panther (David Niven and Peter Sellers); Cliffhanger (Sylvester Stallone) and the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only (Roger Moore). Frank Sinatra stayed at ➤

VENETO & BEYOND the five-star Cristallo Hotel when filming Von Ryan’s Express and today the hotel remains popular with Middle Eastern royalty aas well as A-list celebs. As with any part of Italy, food is a major attraction in the Dolomites, with excellent menus in the mountain Rifugio, first class restaurants in hotels and the centre of town, and a growing tradition of combining traditional regional dishes with a modern outlook. Championing that is Riccardo Gaspari, 29, a former downhill ski racer whose family run the El Brite de Larieto agriturismo establishment, just above Cortina d’Ampezzo. They rear their own meat, make pasta, polenta and gnocchi, source herbs and spices from their kitchen garden and create the most delicious casunzei, a signature dish of the

region, made from egg pasta ravioli filled with beetroot and flavoured with hazel-colour butter. Speck, salami and prosciutto are prepared on site and allowed to mature with cheeses and yoghurts, made in their own dairy, and bread – particularly the traditional mountain bread of puccia, baked with fennel seeds – is baked in the farm kitchen. Riccardo explains: “Our menu is very traditional and I’m aiming to revive old and traditional recipes but giving them a modern twist. My dishes are all based on recipes from the region.” Cortina d’Ampezzo offers a fascinating insight into another dimension of World War One history but it is the access to the stunning and rugged landscape which enables visitors to enjoy the natural attractions of today while they also discover the poignant past. n!

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VIEWPOINT The Sacca di Scardovari is a great expanse of water in the Venetian Po Delta, and is a nature-lover’s dream, with wildlife in abundance everywhere you look… Some 20km around and up to 2km deep in places, the Sacca di Scardovari is one of the wildest areas in the Po Delta and is home to the rare spring snowflake (Leucojum Vernum) flower. You will also see herons, and long-legged buzzards in the cooler months. The Sacca di Scardovari is also well known for its mussel production, which began in the 1960s and remains

in high productivity today – the unusual environment is said to give the shellfish a delicate flavour that makes them highly sought after. In the evenings you are guaranteed to see plenty of boats docked in the lagoon, waiting for the fishermen and water enthusiasts who rise early on warm mornings to take advantage of the ! fishing and the spectacular landscape. n

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PERFECT PEDALLING IN THE DOLOMITES Image left: Lake Garda This image: Pisoni winery

VENETO & BEYOND

Amy Lucinda Jones takes to the roads to see the delights of Trentino Alto Adige from the saddle…

View over Mezzacorona

At the mindfulness session

Kara knew exactly what she was talking about, and had a pretty exciting

All photos © Amy Lucinda Jones

O

ne of the best ways to really experience Italy is, in my opinion, not from the comfort of an air conditioned bus, not from a train compartment, nor is it from a car window. No, the best, and certainly the most exciting and stimulating, way of exploring the beautiful boot is by bike. I had the pleasure of joining a cycling tour to discover one of the most incredible natural features of Italy: the Dolomites. The dramatic Dolomites range across the region of Trentino-Alto Adige. The fertile land in this all-yearround holiday destination produces a variety of award-winning wines and gutsy grappas, as well as delicious

Amy tackles a river bridge

apples from the orchards which are dotted all over the region. My bike tour began in the small town of Torbole, which is home to some of the most spectacular views of Lake Garda. Oh yes, did I forget to mention that Trentino-Alto Adige borders on the captivating northern end of Lake Garda? What a way to begin a trip! I was tempted to sneak off and spend the next six days just breathing in the impossibly fresh air that surrounds this incredible lake, whilst enjoying some delicious ice cream and sipping on Negronis with very cosmopolitan crowds, but my bike awaited me. I had opted for a hybrid version, after having asked our guide Kara for advice. Kara is

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View over Merano

itinerary lined up for us Lake Garda from Torbole

A MINDFUL BEGINNING The following day we were given the opportunity to take part in a short hike and a spot of meditation and ‘mindfulness’, defined as the ability to find one’s channels for pleasure. As I sat on the grass with my eyes closed, listening to the gentle sounds of birds and insects around me (and probably on me too, but I was too chilled out to really care), I wasn’t sure if I managed to achieve this state of ‘mindfulness’, but I definitely felt thoroughly relaxed. The outstanding views from our meditation position were surely enough to make even the biggest city fan up sticks and settle for a life in the enchanting countryside. Tuesday was when the real cycling began. I knew it had to start at some point. Fortunately, most of the cycling over the whole trip was done on the safe cycle paths, piste ciclabili in Italian. Any riding that we did on roads was normally brief, and luckily, in the heavily Germanic-influenced Alto Adige province (where around two thirds of the population speak German as their first language), drivers are very respectful of cyclists, even ones who crawl uphill – I am, of course, talking

about myself here. I was left red-faced on more than one occasion, both due to the few uphill stints that pushed my unfit limbs to the limit, and the fact that I was always the last to reach the top. Cringe. We had the pleasure of cycling alongside the Sarca river, surrounded by dazzling mountains splashed in sunshine. Passing the quaint villages of Arco and Dro, we meandered our way through the blissfully quiet countryside to the Pisoni winery. Here, you’ll witness a true passion for winemaking and be met by some very hospitable staff who don’t speak much English, but do insist you try their delicious wine and grappa. Following this lunch break, the next part of our journey was a little more of a struggle, as a lunch lull kicked in. However, the crisp mountain air and striking views succeeded in waking us up. An incredible meal at Ai Spazzi Restaurant awaited us that evening, and as we coasted up the mountainside in a tram, we marvelled at the tranquillity of Mezzocorona and its surroundings; this well-known wine growing area is often described as the ‘most beautiful wine garden of Europe’. As well as the scrumptious food – a common theme throughout the entire tour – a highlight of the evening was without doubt the 10 litre jug of juniper grappa presented to us at the end of the meal. Again, we all slept pretty well that night… After our night at the Albergo Caffè Centrale in Mezzocorona, we once again set off for our next charming destination. The next hotel I was really looking forward to as, in reality, Schloss Korb Hotel wasn’t so much a hotel, but an actual castle. How wonderful it was to rest my tired body in this true of oasis of tranquillity, complete with every home comfort and the fluffiest bath robes and slippers. With the sweet smell of the countless roses and intensely beautiful views of the Überetsch valley, I could have stayed there for a month. A lot of tour group bonding was done in the grand dining room that evening, as we tucked into our sumptuous dinner, which consisted of succulent swordfish and the most incredible salad buffet I have ever witnessed. Needless to say, we felt like kings. ➤

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the owner of Kara Mia Adventures, a company that offers guided bike tours in various parts of Italy, all of which include gorgeous hotels and fabulous food at local trattorie and agriturismi. With years of bike tour experience, Kara knew exactly what she was talking about, and had a pretty exciting itinerary lined up for us. Our first carefully selected hotel was the stylish Hotel Santori; crisp, clean and sports oriented, it was full of bikers, hikers and windsurfers – the area is known for its strong winds, which make it a water sport hotspot. Its laid back vibe made it a great place to start the tour and mingle with the other tour-goers. Some had lots of biking experience, others little, so I didn’t feel too out of place – I’m not exactly what you would call a fitness fanatic. The first night we were shuttled up to an agriturismo in the mountains. Pasta with local olives, delicious pork and rabbit, as well as sinful crème caramel and potent limoncello. That evening we practically rolled back down the mountain and into our comfortable beds for a peaceful night’s sleep.

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

➤ The next day, after a small lapse

VENETO & BEYOND

in concentration and some very unskilled map reading, I managed to make a wrong turn and found myself wondering where on earth I was. A quick call to the guide and the directions of a very helpful local set me back on the right track, and I was once again cruising along a comfortable cycle path. With barely anyone else around, I felt myself truly getting back to nature, as I swerved around geckos and caterpillars on the path and smelt the sweetness of the surrounding apple orchards. This was why I had chosen to ride alone this time. CULTURAL FUSION The final town on our itinerary was beautiful Merano. Known for its relaxing spa resorts and once home to Franz Kafka, in Merano you can also find some marvellous 15th century churches. With a 50/50 split of Italian and German speaking residents, the mix of cultures is simply wonderful; Italian laid back attitudes together with Germanic politeness and efficiency? Now there’s a place I wouldn’t mind living. On Thursday afternoon I took a relaxing walk along the Passeggiata Tappeiner, which meanders up Monte Benedetto and offers sweet scents of local plants and wild flowers, as well as truly amazing views. One of the best things about this trip was the balance of cycling and the amount of free time we got to explore and discover the locations in which we stayed – at no point were we ‘forced’ to engage in any activities. It was all very mellow and unhurried. We were to stay in the four star Hotel Meranerhof, which overlooks the Passer river in Merano, for two nights. On the final full day we made our way to the train station and after a 60-minute train journey from Merano up to Malles, we were in for a 62km ride back down. We cruised through shaded woodland and along sunny cycle paths before stopping at a little restaurant along the way for some knödels (German potato dumplings) and a refreshing beer. We then continued on our way back towards Merano, weaving through more orchards and stopping for a little dolce in the form of home-made apple strudel and apple juice at a cute little stand nestled among the fragrant trees.

As the sun was starting to go down and my bottom was starting to ache just a little, we took a final breather at a viewpoint overlooking the entire city and the surrounding mountains. Kara revealed to me just how much she loved this place. I could definitely see why: I hadn’t felt so relaxed and rejuvenated in quite a long time. As well as meeting some amazing people and realising that I, Miss hardly-ever-does-any-sport, actually do have the capacity to ride around the Dolomites on a bike without getting lost. Okay… without getting lost more than once. The fact that we could go off and explore independently, safe in the knowledge that there was help on hand whenever we needed it, made for a pretty successful and truly enjoyable trip. Yes, your bottom may be saved in a nice comfortable coach, but will you get to dodge caterpillars and smell the sweet scent of red apples as you whizz by on two wheels, with the majestic Dolomites as a backdrop? Definitely not. Just don’t forget those padded cycling shorts. n!

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TRIP ➤ As this is an active tour, having a reasonable level of fitness will mean that you can get the most out of it. However, Kara Mia tours are designed for guests of all fitness levels with route options available according to your preferences. ➤ Make sure you bring layers of clothing so you can cope with both sunny spells and cool hill descents. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket too, preferably one that’s also windproof. ➤ A good pair of padded cycling shorts are a must – they will spare you a superaching bottom! ➤ Your guides speak Italian and are first-aid trained. You may wish to bring some soothing muscle rubs or heat pads if you think you may need them. ➤ All cycling-specific gear (bike, helmet, water bottle, etc) are provided by Kara Mia, but if you’re an avid cyclist you are welcome to bring your own. Make sure your gear is packed well to prevent damage and is clearly labelled. ➤ Your Kara Mia tour includes most meals and snacks. Let your guides know beforehand if you have any special dietary requirements, and they can ensure that your needs are respected.

96 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

Relaxing at Lake Garda

I swerved around geckos and Another pause for photos



VENETO & BEYOND

Stopping for apple strudels and juice

En route to Merano

Apple orchards near Merano

caterpillars on the path and smelt the sweetness of the apple orchards At the Pisoni winery

INFO BOX ➤ Amy went on the 7-day Magnificent Dolomites tour run by Kara Mia Adventures. Visit www. karamiaadventures.com, call % +34 011 888 973 7926 (toll free), or write to [email protected]. The tour is priced at €2,325 and includes all accommodation, bike hire, most meals, snacks, local outings, local transfers and luggage transfers between hotels.

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PA S T I TA L I A !

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MONTE GRAPPA This military mausoleum on Mount Grappa, in the Venetian pre-Alps, is a monumental burial site built in memory of the many thousands of soldiers from both sides who fought and died here in World War I…

T

Photograph © iStock

VENETO & BEYOND

owards the end of the First World War, a series of battles was fought between the forces of Austria-Hungary and Italy for control of the strategically significant Monte Grappa massif. The Italians are considered to have been ultimately victorious, but only at very great cost. The first battle began on November 11, 1917 (one year to the day before the Armistice), and resulted in the halt of the Austrian summer offensive, when their forces, despite huge numerical advantage, failed to overcome the fortifications that had been commissioned here by Field Marshal Luigi Cadorna. Fighting began again when the Austrians resumed their assault in 1918, and continued until the very last month of the War, when nine Italian divisions attacked Austrian positions on the mountain, eventually forcing a final retreat. In all, some 84,000 men lost their lives, and about a quarter of them are buried right here.

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FOOD & DRINK Venetian cuisine is a world unto itself, and even varies considerably within the region. The Veneto produces some famous, and often very good, wines too…

E AT I TA L I A !

Venice Cult Recipes Laura Zavan’s new book draws inspiration from tradition and secrets shared by Venetian friends and restaurateurs. This book is an easy way to keep the memory of all those flavours alive once you get back home. Just make sure you use quality ingredients for maximum flavour…

Meatballs Polpette 80g sandwich bread, crusts removed

1 medium egg

100ml milk

plain flour, for dusting

2 French shallots

Soak the bread in the milk before mashing it with a fork.

10g butter extra-virgin olive oil 500g minced beef (15% fat) 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley 50g Italian hard cheese, grated

Peel and chop the shallots and sauté them in the butter and a little olive oil, then cool. Combine the minced beef, bread, cooked shallots, parsley and parmesan in a mixing bowl, then add the egg, salt and pepper.

Shape the mixture into balls the size of a large walnut in the palm of your hands. Dip them in the flour, place them on a dish, cover with plastic wrap and let them firm up in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Brown the meatballs in a little oil in a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat, then reduce the heat and cook them gently for 10 minutes, turning regularly. Serve with toothpicks.

Photography © Grégoire Kalt

FOOD & DRINK

➤ SERVES 6 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ COOKING 10 minutes plus 1 hour resting time

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Black tagliolini with prawns, asparagus and peas Tagliolini neri alle mazzancolle, con asparagi e piselli ➤ SERVES 6 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ COOKING 20 minutes 8g cuttlefish or squid ink 250g fresh shelled peas 12 green asparagus spears, tips separated 80ml extra-virgin olive oil freshly ground sea salt and black pepper 24 raw prawns, or mazzancolle tails the grated zest of 1 organic lemon 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Cook your pasta according to the packet instructions, but with the cuttlefish or squid ink. Remember to reserve 2 ladlefuls of the cooking water. (We will use the starch in the cooking water to help thicken the sauce.) Cook the peas for a few minutes (depending on their size) in a little boiling salted water. Repeat the process with the asparagus tips. Refresh under cold water.

Peel the prawns and quickly brown them in a pan with a little olive oil on medium–high heat. Season them with salt, then add the lemon zest, peas and asparagus. Return the pasta to the heat with the vegetables and prawns, 2 tbsp olive oil, the parsley and the reserved pasta water. Stir to coat the pasta until the water is almost absorbed and serve immediately.

Discard the bottom 2cm of the asparagus spears, slice the remainder into rounds and sauté in a little olive oil for a few minutes on medium heat – they should stay crisp. Season with salt and pepper.

FOOD & DRINK

600g tagliolini pasta

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E AT I TA L I A !

Pork in milk Maiale al latte ➤ SERVES 6 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ COOKING 2 hours 500ml milk 2 garlic cloves, halved 10 sage leaves 2 rosemary stalks the juice and zest of 1 lemon 1.2kg boned pork loin 2 tbsp olive oil 20g butter

Heat the milk gently in a medium saucepan with the garlic, herbs and lemon zest. Brown the meat in a large saucepan on high heat with the oil and butter, drain off the excess fat, season with salt and pepper and pour over the hot milk mixture. Simmer covered for 1½ hours. Remove the meat from the saucepan and set aside. Add the lemon juice to the milk and let it reduce: the sauce will curdle from the acidity of the lemon.

FOOD & DRINK

freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

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Remove the garlic and lemon zest and serve the meat covered with the sauce. Serve with seasonal vegetables. VARIATION Replace the milk with beer at room temperature, added gradually during cooking. Simmer the meat and potatoes on a bed of onions braised with 1 tbsp juniper berries and 1 tsp cumin seeds. This version with beer and potatoes comes to us via the Austrians who occupied Venice at the end of the 18th century after Napoleon.

Venetian crostoli Crostoli

INFORMATION ➤ Venice Cult Recipes by Laura Zavan (£20), published by Murdoch Books.

➤ SERVES 6 ➤ PREPARATION 30 minutes ➤ COOKING 15 minutes

2 medium eggs 60g butter, melted 185ml grappa, or eau-de-vie 100ml milk 500g plain flour 1 litre oil, for deep-frying icing sugar, for sprinkling

Whisk the caster sugar and eggs until smooth in a mixing bowl. Add the melted butter while it’s still warm then a pinch of salt, the grappa and milk. Add the flour gradually and work into a dough until it is pliable (about 10 minutes by hand, 5 minutes using an electric mixer). On a floured work surface, roll out the dough as thinly as possible. Cut out diamond shapes with a serrated pastry wheel. In a deep-fryer or large heavy-based saucepan, heat the oil to a temperature of 180°C, or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden brown in 15 seconds, and deep-fry the crostoli without browning them too much. Drain them on paper towels and serve sprinkled with icing sugar.

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100g caster sugar

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 105

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19/03/2015 12:43

VALPOLICELLA Dismissed as a rough and ready house red in the ‘70s and now overtaken by the Amerone wine made from it, there’s more to Valpolicella than you think, says Hannah Bellis...

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ummer is nearly here, so the world cracks open the rosé. Urgh. I am just not a fan, unless it is sparkling… Then I can tolerate it. There are plenty of good rosés, and more than a few are Italian, but it is just not for me. So this month I wanted to explore a red that can be chilled, to satisfy summer rosé avoiders like me. Valpolicella is the perfect choice. Drunk young it is fresh, light and fruity, like a Beaujolais Nouveau, and the Italian red best suited to the trend for chilled reds. So far so good. Except that I was so impressed by the other varieties in the Valpolicella stable that the selection here went rather beyond the crisp, cherry-red, easy-drinking Valpolicella. Valpolicella is not a grape, but a region – starting in the Monte Lessini range north of Verona and stretching south towards the Adige river, with fingers

Drunk young, Valpolicella is fresh, light and fruity, like a Beaujolais Nouveau spreading to Sant’Ambrogio in the west and Negrar in the east. Corvina and Rondinella are the principal grapes grown here, and those most frequently seen in Valpolicella wine, with Molinara, Croatina, Negrara and Dindarella being blended in different areas of the region. The growing market shifts towards Valpolicella Classico, where the grapes come from a more historic zone of quality and tend to be aged, and Valpolicella Ripasso, where the wine skins used to make Amarone are added for a secondary fermentation. Amarone has been the big success of the Verona wine industry, and some say that these wines can rival Barolo when they are done well. It’s no wonder that producers have been pushing to add a little Amarone magic to their other Valpolicella wines. But the variety and quality on offer has made me stray from my original chilled reds for summer focus and include some of these more dramatic vinifications. If you try them, you will understand, and there will be no need for me to apologise. But just in case, I have also included a few of the best summer rosé wines to rebalance the wine scales for summer. ➤

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D R I N K I TA L I A !

ADALIA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2011

From Sainsburys www.sainsburys.co.uk Price £6 People say it’s hard to get a decent bottle of wine for a fiver but here is one for six pounds. It’s not complex, but it’s not unpleasant either, with very little apart from fresh red fruit on the nose. On the palate you get bitter cherry and a very fresh and fruity red with very little tannic structure, but no astringent acidity. This is a classic basic Valpolicella that would cost just a couple of euros in a trattoria. Shame we have to spend a little more on tax here to get it. Try it chilled as a summer red.

ALPHA ZETA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2012

From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £12.99 This is an interesting ripasso. It hasn’t got the intensity you can find with these wines. Instead you get really rich, sweet cherry in the mouth, with aromas of both black and red cherry, with bitterness coming in with the finish. There’s a slight smokiness in the finish too, and even hints of chocolate. It’s lighter and fruitier than some ripassos and a great choice for summer. Pretty good for the price, whatever time of year.

MONTE PIAZZO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2010

From Berkmann Wines www.agwines.com Price £22 From the epic Serego Alighieri vineyard, owned by the descendants of Dante, this has pedigree. There are lovely toasted notes to the aromas, with big red fruit and a even a touch of cocoa. The palate is rich and full bodied – an explosion of black and red cherry with a little spicy pepper in the finish. Very elegant. It’s not cheap, but this is a wine to celebrate with – fittingly, it was bottled to celebrate the vineyard’s 650th anniversary.

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From Roberson Wine www.robersonwine.com Price £19.95 This is a wine to savour on a winter’s night, but the 2011 vintage will be gone by then, unless you buy it now. The nose is rich in truffles and sweet liquorice, with aromas of dried porcini and a slight smokiness. In the mouth it is intense and gamey, with bitter cherry, and liquorice to sweeten the finish, balanced by robust tannins that make it silky smooth. This is the first time we’ve featured Roberson wine – and what a wine to welcome them with!

VALPOLICELLA 2013

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

Gamey flavours – rabbit or even a wild boar ragù would match a treat

Fresh and fruity – knock it back with a week night pizza and some friends

Sausage made with fennel, served with some braised white beans

I’d serve this with roast beef, but it would also go well with a cheese board

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AUG 2014

© iStock photo

Take the screwcap off and the wine’s exceptional character starts to reveal itself

PICK OF THE ROSÉS GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

Try this with roast duck with cherries or plum sauce and creamy mash

Partner with a creamy Italian blue cheese, like a Gorgonzola dolce

Rosés may not be my cup of tea. But if they are yours, I you will appreciate these at these prices. My top pick is Morrisons’ Pinot Grigio Blush, £7.99 a bottle, and aromatic without being overly sweet. If you want to spend a little more, try Great Western Wine’s Salice Salentino Rosato Le Pozzelle, at £10.25, which has some great fruit and flower flavours, but a wonderfully dry finish to refresh a warm summer evening.

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 109

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Allegrini Valpolicella 2013 From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £12.99 Once again, I am raving about a screw cap wine as Discovery of the Month. But there’s a story behind this particular screw cap that may make it more appealing to old fashioned screw-cap-o-phobes like me. Because of Allegrini’s location they have every right to bottle this under the more highly respected Valpolicella Classico designation. But they took the decision to drop it down a notch to let them put a screw top on the wine, which is not allowed for a Classico. But it’s when you take that top off that the wine’s exceptional character starts to reveal itself. It is intensely aromatic. As well as warm red cherries you get roses and violets, and an incredibly bright red fruit aroma to enliven your anticipation. In the mouth this expands with the fruity freshness backed by smooth, creamy tannins. Chilling it brings the violet notes forward and it still sings with fresh, fruity cherry. It looks beautiful, smells heavenly, and drinks very nicely – a quality wine beneath a screw cap. Consider me re-educated, for the time being at least.

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From Berry Bros www.bbr.com Price £17.95 In the glass this is a lot less intensely red than the others here, showings off its quality and its age. On the nose you get cherry, with chocolate and, interestingly, hints of tobacco too. When you taste it there is a wonderful mix of sweet and savoury. Sweet cherry and raisin notes give way to aromatic sage and lovely soft tannins with a slightly bitter chocolate, mineral finish that goes and goes. Mouthwateringly good and very easy to drink at 14 per cent – watch out.

ITALIA! DISCOVERY OF THE MONTH

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From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £11.95 This wine is 100 per cent Corvina, without any of the usual smaller quantities of blending grape. This gives it a lovely purple intensity in the glass, and some very intense black cherry, both in the aromas and the mouth. You also get sweet plum on the palate, and some delicious chocolate notes in the finish. The tannins are a little meaty for my taste, but this would be helped by partnering it with food, and it is an interesting wine with some fantastic fruity flavours.

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2008

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VILLA NOVARE VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2013

CHEF'S NOTES

Where are the colourful vegetable dishes that grace the pages of my cookbooks?

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Notes from Cortina

ITALIAN SUMMER SALADS American expat Sophie Dingle has spent nearly two years in the Dolomites, and has found good salad surprisingly hard to come by…

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n the 21 months that I have lived in Italy I’ve acquired many Italian cookbooks, all of which feature vibrant pictures of leafy greens still dripping with morning dew, ripe red tomatoes ready to burst and crisp stalks of asparagus glistening with olive oil. However, in these same 21 months, I have only eaten a delicious salad exactly twice. Cortina is a small but elegant ski resort in the Dolomite mountain range with a population of 6,000 people – until the skiers descend in December, causing the population to swell to about 50,000. Naturally, there are many delicious restaurants in town to accommodate the skiers and tourists, all serving rich northern dishes like spaghetti carbonara, spaetzle, and canederli – foods with German names as well as Italian ones. Apparently, no one in Cortina eats salads! On many occasions, my husband and I have ordered a side salad to share with our meal, only to be served large, plain pieces of cos lettuce. If we’re lucky, it’s accompanied with a few slices of carrots or purple radicchio. One Sunday we were invited to a friend’s house for lunch. She served savoury crepes to

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start (crespella), stuffed with cheese, ham and spinach, and then gave us dishes of piping hot spaghetti carbonara followed by a pork roast. Finally she plopped a large bowl of iceberg lettuce on the table saying, “Oh Dio! I forgot about the salad!” My point is, in my Italian mountains experience, salad is an afterthought. This doesn’t sound like the Italy I read about in books. And it doesn’t satisfy the American part of me that likes to eat salad for lunch, rather than pasta. Where are the healthy options, the colourful vegetable dishes that grace the pages of my cookbooks? Finally, I find one during a lunch outing to one of my favourite restaurants in Cortina. Hidden deep in the menu is a salad with strawberries, fresh goat cheese from Austria and slivered almonds. As is Italian tradition, it comes with no dressing, but bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar are brought to the table, and I administer both myself (balsamic vinegar first, so the olive oil doesn’t repel it). Another week, during a dinner at the same restaurant, my husband stumbles upon a shrimp and avocado salad which is so delicious that I recreate it at home every day for a week. Here they both are so you can add to your own arsenal…

Strawberry and goat’s cheese salad Insalata di fragole e formaggio di capra ➤ SERVES 4 ➤ PREPARATION 10 minutes 85g cos lettuce 85g rocket 150g fresh strawberries, sliced 50g raw almonds, sliced

Cut the cos horizontally in thin strips and place in a large salad bowl. Add the rocket, sliced strawberries and sliced almonds to the same bowl and top with crumbled goat cheese. Dress with balsamic vinegar and good olive oil.

30g soft goat's cheese

Sophie Dingle is a freelance writer who lives in Cortina d’Ampezzo for seven months out of each year. While in Italy she loves to eat, cook, explore and drink red wine. You can follow her adventures online at sophiedingle. blogspot.com.

Shrimp and avocado salad Insalata di gamberetti e avocado ➤ SERVES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 15 minutes 80g rocket 80g watercress 125g cooked shrimp, sautéed in olive oil 1 avocado

Place half of the rocket and half of the watercress on each plate and split the shrimp between the two plates. Slice the avocado and distribute between the plates. Drizzle each salad with olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

10ml fresh lemon juice 10ml olive oil for dressing Salt and pepper to taste

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

IN VENICE Native Venetian Sara Scarpa and her photographer boyfriend Iain Reid share their recommendations for the best places to eat out in Venice…

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he beautiful country, or bel paese, as it is referred to in Italian, is famous around the world for its art, culture and traditions. But it also has a reputation for its outstanding food and wine. The success of the food comes from one simple fact – the mild climate enhances the flavours of the produce to create easy and tasty recipes. After our trip during the Carnevale, we are heading back to my hometown, Venice, to enjoy the city in a different season and to

Ristorante Gran Viale

All photos © Iain Reid

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his restaurant is situated a few metres from the Lido pontoon (a 15-minute boat trip from St Mark’s Square) and only five minutes from the pretty beach the celebrities visit every September during the Venice International Film Festival. Run by the two friendly Venetians, Claudio and Luciano, this restaurant is popular with locals for its excellent seafood and meat dishes. Their signature dish is the Gran Tecia, a big pot filled with lobster, spider crab, scampi, mussels and linguini. Things can get a little messy – but don’t fret, as you will be presented with a bib and decorative bow tie to protect your clothes! ➤ Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta 10, Lido di Venezia % +39 041 526 0322 www.ristorantegranviale.it

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reveal to you some of our favourite places to eat and drink. The Venetian approach to food is similar to that of Spanish tapas - when we go out we tend to have some drinks and eat many cicchetti (finger food, tapas style). Venetians, from students to older generations, will usually opt for a bacaro tour (a sort of pub crawl) stopping with friends at many different bacari, osterie and trattorie in the same evening. The choice is vast – from cicchetti and tramezzini for less than a pound each, to a refined full dinner.

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Ristorante Gran Viale

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➤

Ristorante Giorgione

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his restaurant is located in Via Garibaldi, in the district of Castello. It’s an area that still has an authentic Venetian way of life about it, with its lively locals and its regular displays of clothes on lines, drying between the buildings. Dining at this restaurant will be a positively unforgettable experience. The restaurant fits in with its neighbourhood as it offers authentic local dishes in a familiar and vibrant environment. It has been run by the same family for over 20 years. The owner’s wife is the head chef, and the owner himself, Lucio Bisutto, entertains his guests every night by playing his guitar and singing old Venetian songs, some of which are incredibly funny if you understand the Venetian dialect! Lucio has recorded several CDs and albums so you can listen to him back home and be instantly transported to Venice! ➤ Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 1533 % +39 041 522 8727 www.ristorantegiorgione.it

Bancogiro

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ocated in the oldest area in Venice, Rialto, this eatery is housed in the warehouse of the old fruit market. The name of the porch under which it is situated, Bancogiro, derives from the name of the first public bank in Europe, established here by the Republic of Venice in 1524. It is only a few steps away from the Church of San Giacometto, which is believed to be the oldest in Venice. Once here, I’d recommend a walk across the bar to the other entrance to choose a table outside, as you’ll get to gaze at the Canal Grande, where you can enjoy your drink while admiring the amazing palaces and the gondolas passing by. If you decide to stay for dinner you won’t regret it: the menu is very creative and the dishes are outstanding. ➤ Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122, % +39 041 523 2061 www.osteriabancogiro.it

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Bancogiro

Florian

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ituated right in the heart of Venice in the Procuratie Nuove in St Mark’s Square, this coffee house is the oldest in Italy, established in 1720. You can sit in a gilded romantic environment with stunning rooms decorated with great frescoes with your favourite drink and delicious pastries. In the same spot frequented by the playwrite Carlo Goldoni, Goethe, Lord Byron, Marcel Proust, Charkes Dickens and Casanova, you can enjoy a heavenly ‘Casanova’ hot chocolate topped with minty whipped cream, while listening to the music and admiring what Napoleon called ‘the most beautiful drawing room in the world’. ➤ Piazza San Marco, San Marco 56 % +39 041 520 5641 www.caffeflorian.com

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Ristorante Giorgione

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➤

Enoteca Cantinone già Schiavi

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ou’ll find this treasure located in the district of Dorsoduro, almost in front of San Trovaso Church and the famous Squero, where gondolas are still made and repaired. It has been run by the Gastaldi family since the ‘50s. Mum, Alessandra, prepares delicious and creative cicchetti, including pretty crostini with egg yoke, mayo and flower petals and tuna tartare with bitter cocoa. Her skill in creating wonderful finger food has won her many awards. The cicchetti taste even better when complemented with the incredible variety of excellent wines you’ll find here. The two elements combined tempt everyone, locals and Hollywood stars alike, including names such as Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. ➤ Fondamenta Nani 992 % +39 041 523 0034

Cantina Do Mori

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ucked away only a few minutes from the Rialto market, this bacaro is one of the oldest in Venice, dating back to 1462. They say even Casanova used to drink here! It is a picturesque, long and narrow bacaro that runs across the width of a building with two entrances on opposite sides. Batteries of copper pots hang from the ceiling and bottles of vintage wines decorate the walls. It offers a good selection of wines and typical Venetian cicchetti. ➤ San Polo 429 % +39 041 522 5401

Cantina Do Mori 116 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENTEO 2015

Al Gatto Nero Al Gatto Nero

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ituated on the so called painters’ island of Burano, this restaurant has been run by the same family for over half a century. In a homely environment surrounded by dozens of paintings by famous local artists, you will eat the exquisite food that Ruggero and his wife Lucia create in the kitchen. Their son Massimiliano, an expert sommelier, will give you a warm welcome and help you choose wine to complement your food. Service, presentation and taste are outstanding here and the atmosphere is perfect. Ruggero, whose dream as a child was to be a musician, in order to express what he felt, has transferred his creativity to the art of cooking. His passion is reflected in the flavours of his dishes, such as the Gatto Nero hors d’œuvres, the baccalà (so delicious that it tastes like a cream), the tasty fish risotto Burano style, the grilled sea bass and homemade desserts. ➤ Fondamenta della Giudecca 88, Burano % +39 041 730120 www.gattonero.com

➤ ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENTEO 2015 117

Al Timon

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his osteria and restaurant is situated in the district of Cannaregio, in an area of Venice that, like Castello, is still very residential and brimming with authentic Venetian life. This area is a favourite night time hangout for younger generations. In a splendid setting among the lively bars lining the Canal degli Ormesini, you can eat cicchetti for less than a pound at the bar or you can sit at one of the outside tables and enjoy the great selection of meat presented with grilled vegetables on a rustic chopping board. This is one of the few restaurants in Venice that specialises in meat. When it gets crowded people start sitting on the Fondamenta’s pavement or on the owner’s bragozzo moored just outside, which is sometimes used as a stage for live jazz concerts. ➤ Cannaregio 2754 % +39 041 524 6066

LOCAL VOCABULARY ➤ CICCHETTI Finger food similar to Spanish tapas

➤ OMBRA DE VIN Literally a ‘shade of wine’, it’s a small glass of wine. The expression is believed to derive from the fact that in the past wine was sold in the shade of the Campanile di San Marco. ➤ BACARO The term derives from Bacchus, the god of wine, who also gives us the Venetian expression ‘far bàcara’ – to create confusion. ➤ SPRITZ There are different versions of Spritz but no one should leave Venice without trying a Spritz all’Aperol. Venetians are frequently found drinking Spritz morning, noon and night, although this is traditionally an aperitif. Spritz all’Aperol is one third Aperol, one third white wine or Prosecco and one third soda water, finished with a slice of orange and and a fat green olive. Read more from Sara at her blog http://veneziavenexia.blogspot.co.uk

Da Nico

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fter your promenade along the Zattere embankment, the university area, grab a table in the sunshine and rest at Da Nico, enjoying a true Italian ice cream experience. This historical bar has been serving ice cream and other sweet delights for almost a century. The famous Gianduiotto is a big slab of hazelnut chocolate ice cream submerged under whipped cream. It is just delicious! And if you come here in the winter and you feel the cold, don’t panic, the luxurious thick hot chocolate will soon cheer you up! ➤ Dorsoduro, Fondamenta Zattere 922 % +39 041 5225 293 www.gelaterianico.com

INSIDER KNOWLEDGE ➤ T he bacaro tour is a traditional Venetian ritual.

➤ In most bacari and osterie you will eat and drink standing at the bar. You will not have a menu and you will just pick something delicious from the various cicchetti at the bar

➤ T he opening times will be different from the restaurants’ times so you will have to get there earlier!

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Altanella

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Altanella

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ocated in Giudecca, my father’s birthplace, the island is referred to as Spina Longa (Long Fishbone) for its long and narrow shape. Set in a peaceful, pretty location, its name derives from the cute terrace on the Canale overlooking the back of the Salute Church. It has been run by the same Venetian family for four generations – Roberto and his brother, Stefano the chef, delight their guests with outstanding fish dishes. The gnocchi al nero di seppia, their mother’s recipe, is a must. The place has always been the destination for both Venetians and international VIPs, and is nowadays also loved by the English nobility. ➤ Giudecca 268 % +39 041 522 7780

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Al Timon

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PROSECCO Though it can be drunk at this time of year too, Prosecco is the perfect Christmas tipple. Paul Pettengale selects seven of the best from the high street and beyond…

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t’s drunk all year round, and goes down well in summer, but if you were throwing a party over Christmas, then you would certainly be on the hunt for some quality prosecco. The perfect Italian wine for entertaining, the fizzy, zesty tipple, with its classic tastes of apples and pears, prosecco is a must at that time of year. It’s cheaper – and weaker! – than Champagne and is far kinder to the stomach that its French equivalent. And it mixes well to make cocktails such as the Bellini, a refreshing mix of chilled prosecco and white peach juice made famous by Harry’s Bar in Venice. There are several different styles of prosecco, most of them sweeter than a Champagne or a Catalan Cava. Although the Brut is dry, the more common ‘extra dry’ certainly has an element of sweetness, which is why it’s often seen as an ideal

Most supermarkets now stock several proseccos, with a wide range of price points accompaniment to the classic Italian Christmas pudding, the panettone. Made using the Prosecco (now called Glera) grape variety, the best examples come from those grapes grown high up in the area, north of Treviso, and around the villages of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene specifically. The latter is the location of the Cartizze hill – considered the Holy Grail of prosecco production (see the boxout on page 122) – where a sweeter, though terrifically complex, wine is made. These wines can fetch prices that rival those of Champagnes, but deserve to be tried at least once. As prosecco has gained in popularity as an alternative to Champagne in the UK and the USA, more and more is arriving on the shelves or our supermarkets and wine stores. Whereas just a decade a go you’d be limited to a single choice in even the larger supermarket chains, most now stock several, with a wide range of price points. Over the page we’ve attempted to present you with a variety of wines that spans the ‘standard’ supermarket offerings (though these are still very good) and includes some more specialist prosecco wines that you may consider splashing out on. Even if it isn’t Christmas! ➤

PROSECCO RISERVA GIUSTINO BISOL DOCG 2013, RUGGERI

From Marks & Spencer www.marksandspencer.com Price £9.99 Although it can’t really compete with the two Ruggeri wines that flank it on these pages, this prosecco from Conte Priuli does M&S proud. Tight, fast-flowing bubbles release typical pear drop aromas together with the merest hint of thyme. It’s another example of a crisp and elegant wine that bursts with lively acidity and plenty of fruit for a depth of flavour. This is a classic party wine – characterful and sophisticated without breaking the bank. Buy in a case!

PROSECCO BRUT QUARTESE DOCG NV, RUGGERI

From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £14.95 The Ruggeri prosecco wines – part of the Bisol company in Valdobbiadene – are complex creatures, each distinct, all delicious. The Brut Quartese is a rounded concentration of apple and sherbet aromas and crisp fruit laced with flavours of mandarin and subtle spice. With intense, dense bubbles and a classic intensity typical of the wines of the region, this is top quality prosecco. No, it’s not cheap, but in this case it’s worth every penny. One to open on Christmas Day morning, for sure!

PROSECCO EXTRA DRY DOC NV, JENEVE WILLIAMS

From Marks & Spencer www.marksandspencer.com Price £9.99 The first thing that hits you when you pour a glass of this wine is the wonderful aroma – tantalizing lemon and lime combined with prosecco-classic apples and pears. These fine flavours persist when you sip the wine, and are supplemented by a reasonably tight mousse and clean, vibrant acidity. It’s an easy-drinking prosecco made using a blend of grapes grown near Venice, where the cooling sea air has added to the fruit’s development. A good dessert wine choice.

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From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £19.95 Well, we’re jumping with in with the big guns! Together with the Brut Quartese (scan right), we have two wines from renowned Bisol-run brand Ruggeri. And this one, a vintage wine from 2013, is quite simply the best the company has to offer. Zesty aromas of soft, juicy apples and crisp pear are complemented by a wide though balanced collection of flavours including spiced breads and citrus. Simply one of the best proseccos going.

PROSECCO EXTRA DRY NV, CONTE PRIULI

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

The best of Ruggeri’s prosecco is perfect with the classic panettone.

Drink with friends and family at a party, ideally with canapés.

Perfect combined with morning pastries at the start of Christmas Day.

The acidity will cut through most desserts including those made with cream.

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Cartizze Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze – Nino Franco From Sommelier’s Choice www.sommelierschoice.co.uk Price £29.70 Okay, so we’re sampling a prosecco with the price tag of a bottle of Champagne, but bear with us as we explain why this is our Discovery of the Month... Nino Franco’s wines are all excellent – we’re big, big fans of its Rustico (same supplier, £14.00) and the company’s crisp and elegant Brut (£16.50). But when we tried the Cartizze we were simply blown away. Indeed we sampled this wine with friends – one of Italian heritage and a full-on wine buff, and his partner, who doesn’t drink. But even she couldn’t resist a glass!

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From Sainsbury’s www.sainsburys.co.uk Price £8.50 Made in the famous village of Valdobbiadene from grapes grown high on the surrounding hills (in places as high as 300 metres above sea level), Sainsbury’s superior prosecco offering is a very crisp example and should be served well chilled (give it a couple of hours in the fridge, at least), and – like the Waitrose wine – hits the mark in terms of apple and pear aromas and a citrus zing on the tongue. Perfect served to guests or maybe sipped with lunchtime pastries.

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DEC 2014

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From Waitrose www.waitrose.com Price £8.99 It’s hard to go wrong with wines stocked by Waitrose, and the supermarket chain has come up trumps once again with its simple, though seductive prosecco. It’s not a particularly complex wine, but when it comes to quality party offerings at a reasonable price that’s not necessarily what you’re after. It ticks all the right boxes with citrus and apple peel aromas and a little almond to taste. Crack open a bottle or two of this when entertaining and your guests will be sure to come back for more.

PROSECCO EXTRA DRY NV MARCA ORO, VALDO

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NV ITALIAN PROSECCO

It’s soft, slightly sweet and a world away from the other wines on these pages, but what character! We tasted it with a couple of panettoni – one with chocolate, one traditional – and this prosecco handled them both with ease. Pear drop aromas, subtle herb notes and layers of fruit make for, quite simply, the best prosecco we’ve ever tried. So go on – pretend it’s Christmas and push the boat out. Give this Nino Franco wine a try. We can guarantee you won’t regret it.

It’s soft, slightly sweet and a world away from the other wines on these pages

ON TOP OF THE WORLD

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

A great wine to drink predinner, or mix with peach juice for a classic Belini.

A fine wine to enjoy with sweet pastries and – of course – panettone!

122 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

It is one of the most important hills in the wine-making world. A steep incline with its own micro-climate where land will exchange hands (on the rare occasion it becomes available) for well over €1 million per acre. Welcome to Cartizze, where the grapes are grown to make what many consider to be the very best prosecco. Stony soil and a constant humidity make for perfectly ripened fruit picked – usually in October – with a concentration of sugars rarely found in the prosecco grape variety. Lovers of prosecco should take the opportunity to sample a Cartizze at some point. No, it’s not cheap, but when you want the best...

THE BEST OF PINOT GRIGIO It’s become a staple of wine bars, pubs and restaurants, but Pinot Grigio can be so much more than that which is sold by the glass. Paul Pettengale explores the higher end...

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ithout doubt, it’s one of the wine world’s success stories. Over the past decade Pinot Grigio has gone from being, frankly, something of a joke in terms of quality white wine (think, as has so often been the case with Italian wine production, quantity over quality), to the most expensive white wine you can buy by the glass in your up-market wine bars. It’s trendy, it’s making Chardonnay (once the darling of the white wine world) look cheap, and – for once – the hype is largely justified.

These wines are sumptuous expressions of what this little black grape has to offer But there is another aspect to Pinot Grigio. A wine merchant friend of mine recently handed me a bottle and said, “Welcome to the other side.” I’m not going to mention which one it was, but you’ll read about it over the page. Whereas 99 per cent of Pinot Grigio drunk in the UK or US can be picked up for around £5 (or US$ equivalent) per bottle, there is a selection of fine wines to be crafted from this – once considered humble – grape variety, and these are now – thankfully – being sold outside of the mother country. These wines, which are predominantly from the northeast of Italy, are sumptuous expressions of what this little black (yes, black) grape has to offer. Yes, these wines still demonstrate citrus notes and a degree of acidity, but increasingly producers are able to extract a marvellous minerality and tastes of herbs and spice (see our Discovery of the Month). Pinot Grigio has finally come of age. It is no longer the bottom-of-the-supermarket-shelf rubbish we once had to endure. So turn the page and come celebrate with us what this grape variety can achieve (if you’re willing to spend £10-plus).

FOOD & DRINK

Photograph © iStock

D R I N K I TA L I A !

MARCO FELLUGA MONGRIS 2013, COLLIO

From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £15.99 Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Franz Haas winery in the Alto Adige was founded in 1880. The owner is a notoriously difficult wine drinker to please, and his meticulous and discerning approach comes through when you sample the wines that leave his factory gates. Crisp, clean, yet mouthfilling and bursting with ripe citrus fruit, this Pinot Grigio harmonizes the warmth of the summer with the mountain’s cooling evening breezes. There’s a lingering salty finish that is great with seafood.

PINOT GRIGIO 2013, LAVIS STORIE DI VITE

PINOT GRIGIO 2013, JERMANN

From Waitrose www.waitrose.com Price £9.95 Sometimes, the simpler things are, the better they are. This Pinot Grigio, sourced by the ever-accomplished buyers at Waitrose, is a middle-of-the-road offering, but one that benefits from its lowly stature. It ticks all of the right PG boxes: lemon and lime aromas; crisp, tongue-tickling acidity; a mineral finish; and a go-to approach. Which means you’ll want to want to refill your glass as soon as you’ve supped your last sip. Balanced, with no surprises.

From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £20.50 Now we’re talking... The price tag may well make you cough and splutter, but this is Pinot Grigio as the gods would have made it. Take your like-priced Chablis and use it in a sauce, because this PG is a wine to die for. It’s rich, yet ably subtle; it’s powerful, yet sublime. And it holds its own against the very, very best. It would have been our Discovery of the Month if it weren’t for the extraordinary Giardino (see opposite). GWW have come up trumps once again – believe us... Do try this wine.

FOOD & DRINK

From Berkmann Wine Cellars www.berkmann.co.uk Price £17.00 It’s rare indeed that you are in a position to describe a Pinot Grigio wine as possessing a distinctive ‘creaminess’. And so this is one of those moments... Yes, there’s a citrus snap. Yes, there’s a toasted almond finish. And yes, there’s the grassy, herbaceous aspect that we associate with the grape variety. But there’s a deliciously smooth roundness to this wine that marks it as absolute top-drawer Pinot Grigio. A wine to savour and to enjoy, sip by slow sip.

PINOT GRIGIO 2013, FRANZ HAAS

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

If you’re spending £17 on a wine, then spend as much on a lobster.

Go to your local fishmonger and order in a couple of dozen oysters.

A Friday evening, gethome-from-work wine to share with your partner.

Could hold up against meaty fish (turbot, say) with a cream sauce.

D R I N K I TA L I A !

PINOT GRIGIO 2013, NEC OTIUM

From Berry Bros. & Rudd www.bbr.com Price £9.75 Rejoice in the new! This wine from one of London’s oldest importers of tipples is a foil to traditional-style Pinot Grigios that have been sampled time and again. Super-fresh, it zings in the mouth. Apple peel and lemon zest aromas tantalize whilst creamy fruit and herb tastes reward. A stunning wine for the price – it’s just a shame you can’t pick up Pinot Grigio of this quality from your local supermarket. Buy a couple of bottles, take them to your next dinner party and show off to your friends!

PINOT GRIGIO PINOT GRIGIO CLASSICI DOC 2013, ‘RAMATO’ 2013, SPECOGNA COLTERENZIO From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £13.50 Great Western Wine have an incredible selection of Italian wine offerings, but we reckon this to be one of their best in terms of affordability against quality. For sure, £13.50 for a wine isn’t cheap, but it’s cheaper that most delivery pizzas and a hundred times more enjoyable. It’s really fresh, yet retains a depth of character that distinguishes it from most Pinot Grigio. It has a slightly spicy twang to it that makes it ideal with shellfish, so whether with prawns or mussels, enjoy!

From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £18.99 Pinot Grigio is, of course a red grape variety, despite the fact that the vast majority of wines that are made of it are white. There are a few rosé wines, and they’re increasingly in demand, but this wine from Specogna is an oddity. Neither white nor rosé, it’s a pale ‘blush’. But boy, is it good! Introducing a hint of strawberry to the PG’s renowned citrus flavours, it provides a real lift in complexity and creativity. This is a wine to savour, and one to cherish.

VIGNE IL GIARDINO PINOT GRIGIO 2013

From Majestic Wine www.majestic.co.uk Price £9.95 Every now and again you open up a bottle of wine, you pour a glass, take a sip and you have one of those ‘Oh, my God’ moments. They are, admittedly, pretty rare. But this wine provided one of those epiphanies. And the reason? It’s so, so, incredibly savoury. Pinot Grigio is hardly renowned for being sweet – quite the opposite – but this wine is distinctive in its ability to open up the herb box and deliver on every level. Impressed? We’re still waiting to close our open jaws.

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APRIL 2015

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

A nice green salad, sprinkled with toasted pine and chopped basil.

A few shelled jumbo prawns tossed in olive oil, garlic and a chopped chilli.

Pale, soft, young cheeses, though be careful not to overpower it.

Grilled flat fish such as lemon or Dover sole, or maybe steamed sea bass.

Photograph © iStock

MO HE

GREAT WITH…

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENTEO 2015 125

CHEF'S NOTES

“But real carbonara is never made with cream!” my food-loving cousin wrote to me"

FOOD & DRINK

Chef's Notes

SPAGHETTI CARBONARA TWO WAYS

After spending the summer months in America, my husband and I are always eager to get back to Italy in September. One of the things I look forward to most is a plate of spaghetti carbonara, the classic dish that originated in the Lazio region and is hugely popular up north in Cortina…

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y love for carbonara did not come easily. When I was ten, I witnessed my American mother making it for dinner one night, cracking raw eggs into a bowl and assuring me that the heat of the pasta would “cook” the eggs. I refused to eat it. More than a decade later, I realized that if I was going to live in northern Italy, I was going to have to love carbonara. When my husband and I first moved to Cortina in the fall of 2011, my father gave us a challenge: find the best spaghetti carbonara in town and take him to eat it when he came to visit in the winter. We dutifully ordered carbonara at every new restaurant that we stumbled on until we both agreed on the perfect version: it wasn’t too eggy; the sauce was a pale, creamy yellow; it had just the right amount of crispy pancetta; and while it was dotted with large flecks of black pepper, the waiter always brought over a splintery pepper grinder so that we could add more. Our second year in Cortina, I decided to try to master the recipe at home. I had a cookbook with a simple recipe for carbonara made with cream.

126 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

“But real carbonara is never made with cream!” my food-loving cousin wrote to me. I did some research myself and found that this was a heated debate amongst chefs and food lovers everywhere. In addition to the cream versus no cream debate, I learned that the dish is traditionally made with guanciale, a cured meat prepared from pork jowl, although most restaurants in Cortina use pancetta, commonly known as “Italian bacon”. For my own version, I decided to ditch the cream and keep the pancetta. The result was a smooth sauce, not too rich, but deeply satisfying. A year after that, we discovered a modern twist on the classic dish while eating lunch at a friend’s restaurant one afternoon. “Have you ever had carbonara con zucchine?” our friend Francesco asked, emerging from the hot kitchen. “We’ll have that for lunch today, you will love it.” He rolled his eyes back in his head in delight. Out came piping hot plates of carbonara, but this time laced with thin strips of sliced courgette, the vibrant green threads interwoven in the tangled spaghetti. No matter how you make carbonara – con or senza zucchine – it’s a classic Italian dish that never gets old.

Spaghetti Carbonara Spaghetti alla carbonara ➤ SERVES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 20 minutes 100g spaghetti 5ml olive oil 50g pancetta, chopped into small pieces 5g black pepper 1 medium egg 50g freshly grated hard Italian cheese 30g finely chopped parsley, optional

In a small bowl, beat the egg with half of the cheese. When the spaghetti is done, drain it well and return it to the pot. Working quickly, pour the egg and cheese mixture over the spaghetti and toss gently. Stir in the pancetta. Transfer the carbonara to two plates and top with the rest of the cheese and the parsley, if desired. Serve with extra black pepper.

Carbonara with courgettes Carbonara con zucchine ➤ SERVES 2 ➤ PREPARATION 20 minutes until it has softened and is nicely browned. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

120g orecchiette 10ml olive oil 1 courgette, chopped into small pieces 50g pancetta, chopped into small pieces 5g black pepper 1 medium egg 50g freshly grated hard Italian cheese 30g finely chopped parsley, optional Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the orecchiette and cook to package instructions. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and cook the courgette

Add the pancetta and black pepper to the same pan, and cook until the pancetta is golden brown, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and set aside. Beat the egg in a small bowl and add half of the cheese. When the pasta is done, drain it well and return it to the pot. Quickly mix the egg and cheese mixture in with the pasta, then add the courgette and pancetta. Stir together and transfer to two bowls. Top with the remaining cheese and parsley, if desired. Serve immediately with extra black pepper.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sophie Dingle is a freelance writer who lives in Cortina d’Ampezzo for seven months out of each year. While in Italy she loves to eat, cook, explore and drink red wine. You can follow her adventures online at sophiedingle.blogspot.com

ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015 127

FOOD & DRINK

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook to package instructions. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and add the pancetta. Add the black pepper and stir together. Cook until the pancetta is golden brown, stirring occasionally, then remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

FOOD & DRINK

D R I N K I TA L I A !

SOAVE With its reputation tarnished by decades of mass market exploitation Hannah Bellis finds the bottles and producers that could help save Soave’s once-good name...

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’ve always thought that Venice’s nickname, La Serenissima, sounds sad rather than serene. If the Veneto region’s star city is beautiful as it crumbles, the reputation of its star white wine, Soave, is just sad in its decline. When the Soave zone was mapped out in 1927 it was a slim strip between Soave and Monteforte d’Alene. This is old volcanic land, with mineral-rich but poor soil, perfect to challenge vines and produce nuanced grapes, and an aromatically full Soave. The area is now known as the Soave Classico zone, because in the 1960s the Soave DOC production zone was expanded dramatically, adding fertile land and bringing a deluge of high yield, bland Soave onto the market. The allowed grapes were changed too. Originally just Garganega and a little Trebbiano di Soave, the DOC was amended to make Trebbiano Toscano (non

For Soave, let the producer lead you to the bottle as this is the most abused appellation in Italy native, but far more productive) and Chardonnay acceptable too. Soave had most certainly lost its sauve, and it has never really recovered from this. I don’t object to Chardonnay in Soave as many purists do. But the presence of this grape represents the bad side of Soave. Chardonnay is highly productive and easy to grow, but easy to get wrong too. You do get a lot of wine per vine from Chardonnay, but it can be bland. And this is what has happened to Soave, which is why it gained its current tag as a rather bland and tasteless white wine. For unknown Soave, more than any Italian wine, let the producer lead you as this is the most abused appellation in all of Italy. Pieropan’s Soaves are doing what they can to restore the grapes reputation. Anselmi also make wonderful Garganega wines, though they no longer label them as Soaves, even though they are, as they believe the name is so tarnished. It is also hard to go wrong with wines from Graziano Prà and Suavia. I hope that as time goes on, the names on this list will grow and the balance can start to shift in Soave’s favour. ➤

GREGORIS SOAVE 2013

From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £16.50 This tall and skinny ‘berty’ bottle used to be instantly recognisable, and this is what would have held the Bertani Soave wine served at George VI’s coronation in 1937. Bertani are trying to reflect the Soave styles of those years with their vintage edition. Grapes from the favorable hills around Costeggiola are fermented with skins for 15 days, and blended with traditionally fermented Soave. This gives big herbaceous flavours of thyme and sage and a long finish. Deep and delicious.

PIEROPAN SOAVE CLASSICO 2013

From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £13.99 They’re right to put his name on the bottle – Leonildo Pieropan is one of the best producers in the zone. This is crisp and dry and like putting a cold wet river stone into your mouth – in a pleasant way. The minerality is chilled slate sitting alongside a fresh, youthful and very crisp wine. You don’t get a very long finish, but you do get notes of marzipan emerging towards the end of the palate. Balanced wine from a producer whose wines have really helped raise the game for Soave as a wine of quality.

ALPHA ZETA S SOAVE 2013

From Liberty Wines www.libertywines.co.uk Price £7.99 This is one of the bottles that Liberty Wines have produced themselves, working directly with growers rather than buying from cooperatives, to have more control over the grapes. You are greeted at the glass with approachable green apple aromas that grow on the palate with a touch of floral jasmine, and a delicious minerality that lingers against a well-balanced acid background. It’s inoffensive and well balanced, but reserved. Refreshing, crisp straightforward – a great aperitivo wine.

FOOD & DRINK

From Private Cellar www.privatecellar.co.uk Price £9 Third-generation producer Antonio Fattori has used 100 per cent Garganega to showcase classic Soave character. Aromas are subtle, but you get touches of sweet almond and jasmine. On the palate, the character is more fruity, with stone fruit and yellow plum giving way to a very pleasing citrus and almond character. This is a great choice for a midweek aperitivo, and Private Cellar will provide free UK delivery on 24 bottles or more, and encourage mixed cases if you are inclined to explore!

SOAVE BERTANI VINTAGE 2011

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

Crisp and cold with a carpaccio of beef and bitter chicory salad

This would be my wine for a posh Sunday roast chicken with rosemary

Seared scallops with flakes of white truffle for an elegant starter

Boiled prawns dressed in good oil and lemon – posh prawn cocktail

D R I N K I TA L I A !

FOOD & DRINK

ITALIA! DISCOVERY OF THE MONTH

Sereole Soave 2013 From Great Western Wine www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £12.50 Bertani have a big history in the wine annals of Verona. This 150-year-old winery pretty much invented Amarone in the 1950s, transforming the region’s winemaking reputation. Success and expansion followed, and they began to produce wine in quantity – and at very reasonable prices. And the quality? They certainly employ some excellent viticulturalists to keep standards up, but I have never been as impressed by their white wines as I have their heavy-hitting reds. That made discovering this Sereole Soave all the more exciting.

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From Aldi www.aldi.co.uk Price £3.98 Readers have been praising the Italian wines at Lidl and Aldi. Dave Mast loves this Soave and wrote in to recommend it. The price and the screwcap made me rather nervous. Aromas of gooseberry, pear and melon don’t alarm, but on the palate I found this to be far too acidic. Pink grapefruit buzzes sharply against a medium sweet background. Sorry Dave, I don’t rate it, but it is certainly inexpensive, and far from flavourless. There are good wines to find in the discount retailers, but I don’t think this is one of them.

SEPT 2014

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From Morrisons www.morrisonscellar.com Price £4.99 Tasteless supermarket mass-produced Soaves are really what killed this wine’s reputation, but thankfully things are improving, as shown by this Soave from Morrison’s signature range. On the nose you get a touch of jasmine and camomile flower, with a palate of crisp green apple, sharp and acidic, and a good foil for a creamy pasta dish. Certainly not tasteless, but not especially nuanced – still better than you would expect for £4.99. The supermarkets are starting to right past wrongs!

SOAVE 2012

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SOAVE CLASSICO 2013

On the nose you get hints what is to come – orchard fruit with tropical peach notes that grow on the palate with sweet apricot and grapefruit. The finish is long and dry, sweet spicy cinnamon fading to bitter almond. You don’t get a burst of never-before-seen nuances and aromas, or a wine of incredible complexity, but you can expect a very well-balanced, classic Soave, showing all the best characteristics of this variety. The price makes it great value – an ideal wedding day wine if you want a wine of quality that will suit most palates.

© iStock photo

A very well-balanced, classic Soave with all the best characteristics of this variety

A GRAPE OF TWO FLAVOURS

GREAT WITH…

GREAT WITH…

Creamy carbonara pasta with salty pancetta and mushrooms

Perhaps with plenty of ice, soda and fresh mint as a summer Spritz of sorts

130 ITALIA! GUIDE: VENICE AND THE VENETO 2015

Garganega is a grape of great character. Good grapes on a early harvest will yield an appley, crisp, acidic wine with a deep slate minerality – not too different from a good Chablis really. Leaving grapes on the vine longer, the character changes as the grape fully ripens, and you can see melon and pear as the main characteristics for a tropical, medium-bodied wine. Both are Soave. This is another factor that can put people off Soave. If you are expecting a dry, acidic white and get a tropical and fruity one, you may be disappointed – though I think the tropical version is really showing off Garganega as it is meant to be. But I still don’t like Aldi’s fruity Soave.

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