Ironing and Pressing Equipment

Fabric & Garment Finishing

Ironing Machine

And

Pressing

A brief about the equipments, machines, attachments, temperature, presser used for garment ironing and finishing. Compiled by: Shilpi B.F.Tech, Sem VI NIFT Mumbai 4/2/2012

Introduction In the garment industry, equipment for handling fabrics with damp heat to iron surfaces, fold edges, iron out seams, shape flat parts, and raise the pile during the manufacture of clothing. Ironing and pressing equipment shapes the semi finished garment by bringing the fabric fibers into a highly elastic state and then deforming and setting them. Need for Ironing/Pressing • • •

To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks:- these are normally caused by bad operator handling. To make creases where the designs of the garment requires them:- for eg creases in trousers and skirts. To mould the garment to the contour of the body: - this is done for the enhancement of it shape. It requires two kinds of deformation i.e. shrinking and stretching. After moulding it is not possible to return the garment to its original shape. For eg: - moulding takes place are around the ends of darts, collars, shoulders, armholes and sleeve heads and sometimes trouser legs.

Presses Garments are pressed between a lower and upper board. This process involves less manual work than using an ironing table, so more garments per hour can be finished on a press. Finishers Finishers are used for specific types of garments, e.g. trousers, jackets or shirts. The finishing process is highly automated and such equipment is therefore suitable for large volumes of a specific type of garment. Pressing: •

• • • •

•

To refinish the fabric after manufacturing the garment: - to give the final neat appearance to the finished product. Involves no sliding of the iron. The iron is placed on the fabric and then lifted. Moisture is added from a pressing cloth or steam in the iron. This procedure is good for wool clothing and loose or bulky textures. It is often done to apparel between wearing. It is also done while constructing garments. It prepares garments for further sewing: - it is also called as under pressing. It is pressing operations on partly finished garments. 2

Ironing: •

• • •

It is the process of using an iron to remove wrinkles from damp, washable clothing. Heat and pressure are used to flatten the fabric. Ironing is done with a gliding or sliding motion. It is done to entire garments after laundering.

Elements of Pressing •

•

•

•

Heat: - Heat is needed in most pressing processes to soften fibers, stabilize and set the desired shape. Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers, yarns, and fabrics used in a particular style. Sources of heat include heated surfaces and steam. Steam (Moisture):- Is the fastest means of transferring heat into the fabrics. Steam is created by heating water in a pressure/boiler. The higher the pressure, the hotter and drier the steam. Different fabrics require different amount of moisture and heat, excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color bleeding and must be used under controlled conditions. Pressure: - Is applied to alter shape and increase the permanency of the moulding or creasing. Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces, flatten textures and create permanent garment and/or fabric damage. Vacuum: - After application of heat and moisture is the vacuum which sucks ambient air through the garment as it lies on the buck or pressing table. This rapidly dries out residual moisture from the garment and ensures that the set imparted by pressing is retained. Suction also ensures garment is in place before pressing and it does not shift.

Different types of fabric require specific combinations of moisture, pressure per surface unit, temperature, and duration of the process.

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Classification Of Garment Pressing Equipment There are various types of garment pressing equipment used in the garment industry for different types of garments. Most garment pressing equipment machines range from miniature ironing boards to specialized steam machinery for different types of garments. Pressing equipment is also used in industries such as Laundromats and small fabric shops.

Pre-Design Garment Pressing Equipment •

Pre-design garment pressing equipment prepares un-pressed fabric through ironing before it is designed or cut. These machines are manually operated by pressing down on the fabric with a push bar that lowers the presser onto the fabric. Pre-garment pressers also are used to define stitching lines in a garment before it is cut or designed.

Collar and Lapel Garment Pressing equipment •

Garment collar and lapel pressing equipment is ergonomically designed to press shirt collars, blouses, coats and jackets. The pressing board is curved so the collar or lapel of a garment fits snugly on the layout board of the garment pressing equipment. Many collar and lapel presses are hand operated.

Jacket Garment Pressing Equipment •

Jacket garment pressing equipment is engineered to the shape of the jacket, and is manually operated by a pressing bar. It is designed to press the inside and outside of the jacket, which includes the base fabric or lining inside of the jacket. Jacket garment pressing equipment can range from 51 inches on a flat surface to 72 inches for large coats and jackets.

Sleeve and Arm Garment Pressing Equipment •

Sleeve and arm garment pressing equipment is used to iron the sleeves of jackets and coats after the garment is manufactured or designed. 4

Sleeve and arm pressers are engineered vertically or as flat-surface machines with the pressing boards shaped in the form of an arm. Depending on the type of fabric the jacket or coat is made of, there are different settings for each type of fabric. These settings range from low, medium or high settings, which can be adjusted by a dial or switch.

Miniature Garment Pressing Equipment •

Miniature garment pressing equipment is used to iron smaller fabrics after the manufacturing or design phase. These finishing garment pressing machines consist of hand-ironing devices attached to the pressing board for manual ironing. The ironing boards are flat surfaces shaped in a square or rectangle for easy ironing

Ironing and Pressing Equipments Include • • • • • •

Irons, Presses, Steamers, Steam-Air Dummies, Assembling And Shaping Equipment, And Auxiliary Equipment.

There are equipments that operate in sequence (irons, steamers), in sequence and in parallel fashion (presses, assembling and shaping equipment), and in parallel fashion (steam-air dummies). Ironing and pressing equipment can be operated manually or by a pedal. It can also be powered by: • • •

Pneumatic, Hydraulic, Or Belt Drive From Electric Motors.

Presses with capacities up to 50 MN (500 kilogram-force) are considered light, up to 250 MN (2,500 kilogram-force) as medium, and above 250 MN as heavy. Presses are manufactured with electric, steam, and oil heating equipment. Auxiliary equipment includes various attachments, forms, and moisteners.

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Iron The most common but least productive ironing and pressing device is the iron, which is suitable for performing a large number of operations in processing with heat and moisture. More refined and more productive but less widespread are ironing presses, which permit a considerable degree of mechanization and some automation of processing with heat and moisture. Fabrics are steamed in order to eliminate sheen (luster), which develops when ironing and pressing equipment is used. Steaming is done either on specially designed ironing presses that combine pressing and steaming or on steaming equipment. There are two basic types of irons: a) Dry Iron and b) Electric Steam Irons Dry Iron: - These are light weight irons weighing about 1.4 kgs with a heat range of between 70 and 240 degree C and electronic temperature controls that have a reliable accuracy of +/- 3 degree C. This type of iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly used for smoothing or finishing operations where steam is unnecessary. Electric Steam Irons :- These are the most commonly used type of hand iron and carry out a wide variety of operations, especially those concerned with under pressing. The iron has a heating element and steam is fed from a central or independent boiler into the steam chamber in the base of the iron. The heat generated can be controlled by a thermostat, and 6

supplied with steam either from factory’s main steam supply or from a small boiler adjacent to the pressing unit. The steam function of the iron is activated by the touch of a button. Weights of irons vary from 2 to 15 kgs.

Several shapes are available: •

Narrow ones for seam opening on sleeves and trouser legs.

For ironing of seams, a specially designed iron is advantageous. The narrow sole of the seam iron and the arched and narrow ironing buck avoid marks on the garment (see sketch). For ironing fabrics that are sensitive to shine, teflon soles should be used. The teflon reduces the contact temperature by up to 40°C and therefore prevents shine. • •

Wide ones for flat shapes Pointed

Irons are used on simple pressing tables. Modern tables have supply of vacuum to hold the garment in place and dry after ironing. The pressing table can have: •

Swivel arms, 7

•

Bucks of varied shapes to allow the laying of sleeves, shoulders and collars.

The solid aluminium framed sole gives a snug fit. The teflon frame sole reduces the surface temperature by approx. 40°C. The safety sole using the steam chamber principle is made of stainless steel. Various frame plies improve the steam quality and regulate the contact temperature. The additional wire mesh ensures the very soft spread of steam.

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Teflon Frame Sole and Brush f Standard equipment includes layers of aerofitt and stainless steel to provide micro fine steam. The Teflon frame sole removes creases without shine marks on flat materials. The brush is used for napped and sensitive fabrics. • With layers • Brush hard Brush soft

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Industrial steam iron

Iron Table The decisive factor for an ironing station is the air flow through the garment to cool the fabric and set the ironing result. Ironing tables are used with an iron. The textiles are ironed between the heat and steam of the iron and the padded board. Jacket Seam Ironing Station This special-purpose ironing station has been designed for opening seams along the backs, sides and shoulders of any type of jacket. With its special triple buck complemented by the shoulder seam attachment five seams are 10

ironed at one time with less folding effort. The timer automatically repeats the required ironing program and guarantees a constant high-quality ironing result with short ironing times. • Picture: base unit S+B with suction and blowing function, support stand, double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, iron rest, triple buck jacket seam 950/830 x 360 mm / 37.4/32 .68 x 14 .17 inch With prefitt cover, point right, shoulder seam assembly (also available without shoulder seam assembly or with point left) -For processing of jackets and men’s blazers and under pressing.

Trouser Seam Ironing Station Standard The special ironing buck, which is mounted on the standard base module, guarantees easy opening of the crotch and the side seams and optimum hip ironing. The hip area can be ironed without problems due to the special shape of the buck. The standard trouser seam ironing station standard is available with a ladies trouser seam buck shape or a men‘s trouser seam buck shape – it is also available with a Timer unit as an option. • Picture: standard base unit with suction, support stand, single kicker plate, air-vent grill, trouser seam buck men’s wear with heating 13 70 x 48 mm / 53.94 x 1.89 inch with prefitt cover, point right, spill tray with leg support, iron rest. 11

-for trousers and under pressing

Trouser Seam Ironing Station with chain The trouser seam ironing buck is completed with a chain tensioning system. The trouser seam is positioned correctly and there is no overstretching by the chain thus avoiding wrinkles. The ironing result is therefore better compared to the trouser seam buck standard. The trouser is held in place by the tensioning system therefore the operator’s hands are free for ironing. The crotch seam and side seams of single legs as well as complete trousers can be opened in a minimum amount of time. The trouser seam ironing station with chain is available with a ladies trouser seam opening buck shape or a men‘s trouser seam opening buck shape. • Picture: base module standard with suction, support stand, separated kickerplate, air-vent grill, trouser seam buck ladies‘ wear with heating and chain 13 70 x 48 mm / 53.94 x 1.89 inch with prefitt cover, point right, Timer VEIT 7934 , spilltray with leg support, iron rest.

Sleeve Seam Ironing Station

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The sleeve seam buck guarantees an easy and perfect opening of sleeve seams of jackets, men’s blazers and coats. The sleeve seam buck includes an iron rest as a standard feature. • Picture: base module standard with suction, support stand, single kickerplate,air-vent grill, sleeve buck special 770 x 45/100 mm / 30.31 x 1.77/3.94 inch with prefitt cover and iron rest, point left, spilltray with leg support.

Dress Board Ironing Tables These are available, as required, pointing left or right. They can be equipped with various shapes and sizes of ironing surfaces and are ideal for the ironing of skirts, dresses, jackets, blouses. A swivelarm assembly designed for a large variety of ironing bucks as well as a support gantry and a lighting system make this station a perfect ironing unit for processing of ladies’ wear. All dress board ironing stations can also be assembled pointing right. • Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, spilltray, ironing surface dress board narrow 320 x 1100 mm / 12.6 x 43.31 inch, point left, iron rest, industry soft cover, swivelarm assembly with sleeve buck medium with cover, lighting assembly

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All purpose table: An all-purpose ironing station offering a wide range of bucks. With its custom designed ironing surface, trousers, dresses, skirts, coats, blouses, jackets and other garments can be processed most efficiently. This ironing station is a perfect solution for those who need as much flexibility as possible such as 14

studios, tailors, and returns departments, refinishers and textile care companies. • Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand, double kicker plate, air-vent chimney with display, ironing surface CR2 300/500 x 1400 mm / 11.81/19.69 x 55.12 inch, point right, iron rest, industry soft cover, swivel arm assembly with sleeve buck medium with cover, lighting assembly.

Flat Top Ironing Tables Fitted with a suction and blowing unit, this unit can be used to finish trousers. This all-purpose ironing station can be fitted with smaller or larger ironing surfaces. A great advantage of this ironing table is its universal use. • Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand, double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, iron rest, ironing surface 13 00 x 650 mm / 15

51.18 x 25.59 inch with industry soft cover, 2 swivelarm assemblies with sleeve buck medium and egg-shaped buck with covers, lighting assembly and iron gantry (without cover).

Blouse and Shirt Ironing Station On this special rectangular ironing buck featuring rounded edges, blouses and shirts can be perfectly positioned for excellent finishing results with minimal lay-out and handling times. Depending upon the particular application, round or pointed surfaces are available for this blouse ironing station. The ironing 16

surface has been developed to fit the form of a shirt or blouse so that a complete front part can be ironed with only one working step. This saves time and minimizes the lay-out and handling times compared to the dress board ironing table. • Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand, double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, spilltray, ironing surface for blouses and shirts 1010 x 385 mm / 39.76 x 15.16 inchwith industry soft cover, point left, iron rest, swivelarm assembly with sleeve buck medium with cover.

Trouser Leg Ironing Station This table is particularly suitable for removing imperfections in seam and/ or waistband areas. For this purpose, we recommend using this trouser ironing station and its all-purpose buck. A waistband clamp is standard and will keep trousers in place while the blowing function is being used. The trouser leg ironing station gives your trousers the finishing touch and guarantees excellent finishing quality in the waistband and lateral seam areas. 17

• Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand, double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, spilltray, universal ironing buck trouser leg with clamp 1210 x 245 mm / 47.64 x 9.65 inch with industry soft cover, iron rest.

Hip-Bow Ironing station This table has been especially designed for finishing of hip-bow. The ironing result is a hip-bow without marks. • Picture: base module S+B with suction and blowing, support stand, double kickerplate, air-vent chimney with display, spilltray, ironing buck hip-bow with industry soft cover, iron rest.

Concave ironing station

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Convex ironing station

Curtain ironing table: 19

-an ironing surface of 3000X700 mm Covering the ironing table: The durability of the covering is depending on different factors like pressure resistance, hydrolysis resistance and most important heat resistance of the used materials. Long lasting coverings are more expensive but they offer a constantly good ironing result and reduce machine breakdown time as they extend the replacement interval. Every single layer of an ironing table covering serves a special purpose in order to achieve the optimum ironing result. Unheated ironing tables do not require a heat resistant lower padding. All layers together are responsible for the equal distribution of the steam which should come out of the covering as a homogenous cloud. The covering starts at the metal surface of the ironing table: 1. Rough wire mesh Besides the steam spreading it also improves the vacuum suction. 2. Lower padding (about 4 – 6 mm thick) At least this padding should be heat resistant and durable as you will have to remove all above layers when it has to be replaced. A hard VOMAPOR silicone/foam or REHAU foamed silicone is advisable. Sometimes a Nomex needle felt is used as a lower padding. The lower padding protects the above paddings and the clothing from too big heat. 20

3. Lower layer Here, one should use a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt which distributes the steam and prevents from fluff in the vacuum suction. 4. Intermediate padding (about 5 – 10 mm thick) This padding is responsible for the softness of the covering and thus directly influences the ironing result. A hard padding usually is more durable and speeds up ironing as the pressure of the iron is not absorbed. But it also increases the danger of shine and pressure marks at the thicker parts of the clothing like seams and pockets. For such problems choose a softer and/or thicker padding which cushions the pressure. Commonly foam with at least 80 kg weight per cubic meter is used as the intermediate padding. It must be reticulated to achieve the optimum permeability. The heat resistance of the foam can be improved by a silicone coating. Please avoid very cheap silicone/foams as their coating only lasts slightly longer than the uncoated foams and may transmit hazardous substances which harm your workers and contaminate the clothing. 5. Upper layer This layer can be a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt with inlet or a molton. If required a wet environment for ironing difficult materials like canvas we advise a cotton molton. Otherwise one should use more durable materials made of Polyester or Nomex. A fine wire screen mesh at this part of the covering filters fluff which otherwise could penetrate the below layers and reduce the vacuum suction. A felt should not be used without inlet at this position because the horizontal movement of the iron will cause bulges. 6. Final top cover The final top cover should not be more heat resistant than the lower layers because then one would not recognize that the layers below are exhausted until the ironing result suffers. Sometimes the final top cover has to be replaced often because it gets dirty very quickly. Then we advise to use a cheap final top cover which can be changed easily. Most workers prefer a smooth final top cover because the clothing can be put on the table quickly and handled easily. But if the clothing is already very smooth it may slide down from the ironing table. 21

In this case we should choose a rough cover instead.

Steam Presses In steam presses the steam is delivered to the article through an upper ironing cushion. The working part of steaming equipment is a brush with a nozzle mounted on a flexible, steam-resistant sleeve joined to a steam line or individual steam generator. They consist of: • • •

A static buck and A head of appropriate shape which closes onto it, sandwiching the garment. A foot

The head closes by either a scissor action or in recent ones, vertically. Foot controls the head closure and vacuum. The operator can vary head pressure. A typical cycle is steam from the buck , head locked to press, further steam from the head and buck, head released, vacuum to cool and dry. Head maybe operated manually or automatically. Steam duration, pressure and vacuum can be controlled and set. Self Contained Units: - Self contained units, incorporating a steam boiler and electrically driven vacuum and air blowing facilities, are increasingly used both in the under pressing of tailored garments and the pressing of unstructured garments, because they can be moved from place to place. As spring facility holds the iron to reduce operator fatigue in continuous picking up and putting down the iron.

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Steam-Air Finishers Steam Air Finisher: - It is also called as a “Puffer”, a Form Press, Form Finisher, or a Dolly Press. Work on steam-air dummies is highly efficient. A steam-air dummy consists of a metal frame on a firm rotating base, with padding the finished product placed on the equipment employing steam and hot pressure is used to shape the product dummy.

in the shape of frame. Special air under placed on the

It consists of: • • •

a frame carrying a steam distribution system, compressed air distribution system and a pressing form which is a canvas bag in the approximate shape of the garment to be pressed – that is, a body shape but with no sleeves.

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There are controls for steam and air release and timers to control their cycles. Little pressure is applied and whole garment is pressed at the same time however creases cannot be set. The operator fixes the garments on clamps, form is then expanded full size and steam is blown from inside to outside, followed by hot air drying. It is used for nightdresses, T-shirts, blouses, jeans and other casual trousers which do not require crease. It may require additional pressing of certain areas. Steam-air dummies are used to form: • • • •

Dresses, Suits, Coats, Underwear and Products.

Certain

Other

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Trouser finishing

Tunnel finisher A tunnel finisher is a machine to remove wrinkles from garments. The machine processes each garment through several stages. First the garment passes through a steam chamber to make the fabric moldable. Then wrinkles are removed by a strong hot air flow alongside the garments. Finally the garment is dried by cooler air before it leaves the tunnel finisher. Tunnel finishers can be grouped into two different classifications, "wide body" or "narrow body." "Wide body" machines are designed for high production finishing of blended garments wet-to-dry, damp-to-dry and or dry-to-dry. "Narrow body" machines are designed for shoulder-to-shoulder processing and are best suited for the dry-to-dry finishing of garments. However; they are 25

capable of damp-to-dry finishing at slower production speeds. These units are ideal for dry cleaners, hotel laundries, institutional laundries and other onpremise laundry applications.

Pressure is not applied and handling is reduced. It is used for variety of simple garments in man-made fibers and blends. Some garments would be on hangers, fed under automatic control through a cabinet on a motorized rail, and passing through sections with super heated steam and drying by air blowing. It is used for knit wear and tee shirts. The aim of the steam is to relax natural fibers, that of the heat to relax man-made fibers. With the garments on hangers or frames, gravity or tension pulls out the wrinkles, and the turbulence of air blowing provides additional energy to relax wrinkles in woven fabrics. The operators only have to load and unload the hangers or frames. Sequential and Parallel Ironing: Sequential and parallel ironing and pressing equipment includes highly productive machinery and equipment for unit processing and the assembly of parts with thermoplastic glues to ensure high quality and stable production. Extensive use is made of control and measuring equipment such as mechanical, oil, and electronic time relays; bimetallic, fluid, and semiconductor thermo-regulators; pressure gauges; and moisture gauges. This equipment maintains the regimens of moisture and heat treatment within the limits recommended for a particular type of fabric. Presses with electrically heated ironing surfaces (cushions) are wide-spread, but the use of steam or of fluids that create a more even heat when mixed with hot air offers better long-range prospects as heat conductors. 26

Further development of ironing and pressing equipment envisages automation of the supervision and operation of press work, mechanization of auxiliary and laborious processes, intensification and improvement in the quality of processing (the use of a vacuum to remove moisture and steam permeation instead of moistening), increased productivity (multi-operational and multipositional presses), and improved working conditions.

Bucks Bucks are available in various shapes. Especially in jackets, pressing is broken in various operations. Iron is also available for touch up in local areas. Carousel Press: - pair of bucks rotates between the operator and either a single or a double head, depending on whether the bucks are identical or an opposite pair. While machine carries out the controlled pressing cycle, the operator loads the other. It gives higher output. Trouser Pressing: - is carried out in two operations. Legging is done on flat press which sets the creases on the legs and topping in a series of lays around the top of trouser on a contoured press. Touching up may be also required. An upright buck is present where topping and legging are done in one operation. 27

Components include: ◦ ◦

◦ ◦ ◦

Lower buck and a complementary moveable head with a linkage system Buck padding(Buck padding serves to distribute steam evenly, reduces its impact on fabric, and provides a soft, resilient surface for the fabric thus preventing shine and steam spots) Steam and vacuum systems Frame and table Manual or automatic controls for steam, vacuum, heat, pressure.

Limitations as there is size variations and flexibility of mechanical pressure on critical areas such as waistbands pockets and fly. Double leggers are those which press two legs simultaneously. Split head which applies steam to whole leg but no pressure to seam area. Bucks are made of heat resistant silicone foam; top cover is of woven polyester or stretch nylon. This is covered by synthetic felt. The cover should be smooth to allow easy manipulation of the garment. The head consists of metal head, metal gauze (copper and aluminium) a layer of synthetic felt main layer of knitted cotton padding and final layer of outer cover as on the buck. Covering a buck: Lower buck Commonly the lower buck has a thicker and softer padding than the upper buck allowing the clothing to sink into it equally. 1. Rough wire mesh Besides the steam spreading it also improves the vacuum suction. 2. Lower padding (about 6 – 15 mm thick) At least this padding should be heat resistant and durable as one will have to remove all above layers when it has to be replaced. We advise a hard VOMAPOR silicone/foam or REHAU foamed silicone. The lower padding protects the above paddings and the clothing from too big heat. 3. Lower layer Here one should use a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt which distribute the steam and prevent from fluff in the vacuum suction. 28

4. Intermediate padding (about 6 – 15 mm thick) This padding is responsible for the softness of the covering and thus directly influences the ironing result. A hard padding usually is more durable and speeds up ironing as the pressure is not absorbed. But it also increases the danger of shine and pressure marks at the thicker parts of the clothing like seams and pockets. If you have such problems please choose a softer and/or thicker padding which cushions the pressure. Commonly a silicone/foam like VOMAPOR is used as the intermediate padding. Please avoid very cheap silicone/foams as their coating only lasts slightly longer than the uncoated foams and may transmit harmful substances which harm your workers and contaminate the clothing. 5. Upper layer This layer should be a Polyester wire screen mesh or a felt. It prevents from creases at the final top cover and filters fluff which otherwise could penetrate the below layers and reduce the vacuum suction. 6. Final top cover The final top cover should not be more heat resistant than the lower layers because then you would not recognize that the layers below are exhausted until the ironing result suffers. Sometimes the final top cover has to be replaced often because it gets dirty very quickly. Then we advise to use a cheap final top cover which can be changed easily. Commonly a stretchable textile is applied.

Upper buck Usually the covering of the upper buck is thinner because it is difficult to fix more layers upside down. Besides the steam coming from the upper buck is reaching the clothing faster. But if we have problems with shine or pressure marks, e.g. with inside seams marking on the outside, we should try to attach a softer and/or thicker covering on the upper buck and maybe a harder and/or thinner padding on the lower buck. 1. Wire screen mesh We may even attach 3 layers of wire screen mesh on top of each other which distributes the steam very good. 29

2. Lower padding (about 4 - 6 mm thick) We advise REHAU foamed silicone, a hard quality of VOMAPOR silicone/foam or a felt. This layer can be glued to the buck with a silicone paste. 3 Upper padding (about 4 - 10 mm thick) We advise a soft VOMAPOR silicone/foam, Poly-foam or a felt. Upper and lower padding can be combined in a single layer of about 8 - 15 mm thickness. 4. Final top cover The final top cover should not be more heat resistant than the lower layers because then you would not recognize that the layers below are exhausted until the ironing result suffers. Commonly you should use a twill woven wire screen mesh or a stretchable textile, often the stretch is attached on top of the wire screen mesh Sleeve buck medium Ø 85 mm Sleeve buck medium with plinth diameter 85 mm / 3.35 inch Cover: • • • • •

Prefitt Industry soft Industry hard Standard Soft Standard

Egg-shaped buck small Ø 85 mm Egg-shaped buck with plinth diameter 85 mm / 3.35 inch Cover: •

Industry soft

•

Industry hard

•

Standard 30

•

Soft Standard

Hip bow buck Ø 85 mm Hip bow buck with plinth diameter 85 mm / 3.35 inch Cover: Industry soft

•

Trouser Seam Buck with plinth Ø85mm With heating element and turning handle •

Length without turning handle: 1370 mm

•

Width: 48 mm

•

Height with cover: 95 mm

Trouser Seam Buck Men's Wear is 50 mm lower than Trouser Seam Buck Ladies' Wear Prefitt cover

Triple jacket seam buck (Varioset)

Triple jacket seam buck Cover: •

Prefitt 31

•

Industry hard

Collar buck 85Ø

Collar buck with plinth diameter 85 mm / 3.35 inch

Sleeve buck Junior Ø 85mm Sleeve buck JUNIOR with plinth diameter 85 mm / 3.35 inch Cover: •

Prefitt

•

Industry hard 32

Jacket lining buck (convex) Ø 120

Jacket lining buck convex with plinth diameter 120 mm / 4.72 inch Cover: •

Soft Standard

Pleating Machine: There are two types of pleating machine: 

Rotary machine: ◦ Rollers are fitted with complementary dies similar to gears. ◦ Tiny pleats like crystal pleating or accordion pleating can be achieved. ◦ Different pattern require dies to be changed. 33



Blade machine: ◦ Pleats are formed by thrust action of a blade or blades ◦ Set by heat and pressure as they pass through a set of mangletype rollers

Steam Generator (Boiler) A boiler or steam generator is a device used to create steam by applying heat energy to water. Although the definitions are somewhat flexible, it can be said that older steam generators were commonly termed boilers and worked at low to medium pressure. 34

Boiler should have features like: • Electronic water level control with optical and acoustic indication of low water level • Presser level indicator • Water softening unit • Manual water feeder The high-pressure steam generators are available in four power capacities from 3.0-12.0 kg steam per hour.

Specifications of VEIT Boiler 2.2 kw

Boilers, steam generators, vacuum systems are essential parts of any pressing system. Quantity of steam has a major impact on production cycle time and the appearance of finished garment

Types Of Fabric And The Temperature Required For Ironing FABRIC Linen Polyester Silk Acetate

TEMPERATURE 230o C (445 F) 148 °C (300 °F) 148 °C (300 °F) 143 °C (290 °F) 35

Acrylic Lycra/Spandex Nylon Wool Viscose Cotton Triacetate Fabric

135 °C 135 °C 135 °C 148 °C 190 °C 204 °C 200 °C

(275 °F) (275 °F) (275 °F) (300 °F) (375 °F) (400 °F) (390 °F)

Tips

Acetate

Press on wrong side while damp. Requires a low temperature and little moisture. It will melt or glaze under a hot iron. Press the fabric on the wrong side or use a cloth for any necessary rightside pressing to prevent a shine. Never press completely dry.

Acrylic

Require low temperatures and little pressure. Protect the fabric with a press cloth. A steam iron can be used for most of these fabrics. Follow the pressing directions given on the label or the tag

Beaded

Place on plush white towel, press on wrong side.

Cashmere

Do not press, steam only.

Corduroy

Place on plush white towel, press on wrong side. Use steam on front to refresh crushed pile.

Cotton, lightweight

Cotton requires a fairly high temperature and some moisture. Easy-care finishes require less heat and moisture. Heavy or very firmly woven cottons may need more moisture than a steam iron supplies. Press cottons on the right side for a smooth or shiny finish; on the wrong side for a dull finish. Press fabric until completely dry.

Cotton, heavyweight

Press while damp. Same as above.

Damask

Use cloth between fabric and iron.

Lace

Use cloth between fabric and iron.

Linen

Iron on wrong side while damp. 36

Linen requires high temperature and much moisture. Press on the wrong side to prevent shine, or use a cloth for right-side pressing. Press until the fabric is completely dry. Nylon

Require low temperatures and little pressure. Protect the fabric with a press cloth. A steam iron can be used for most of these fabrics. Follow the pressing directions given on the label or the tag

Olefin Polyester

Requires from low to medium temperature and slight pressure. It is best to press from the wrong side; protect the right side with a press cloth to prevent shining. Steam can be used on most fabrics. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Ramie

Iron on wrong side while damp.

Rayon

Iron on wrong side. Rayon takes a moderate temperature. Test for the amount of moisture to use. Press on the wrong side, or use a press cloth for right side pressing to prevent a shine.

Satin

Press on wrong side with cloth between iron and fabric. Use no steam.

Sequined fabric

Do not iron, use light steam.

silk

Press on wrong side. Use no steam. Silk requires moderate temperature and little, if any, moisture. Press on the wrong side. Prevent water spotting by using a dry cloth next to the fabric and a damp cloth on top, or use a steam iron and a dry cloth.

Synthetic Blends Velvet

Place on plush white towel, press on wrong side. Use steam on front to refresh crushed pile.

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Wool

Use a damp cloth between iron and fabric. Iron on wrong side. Wool requires a moderate temperature and always needs some moisture. Do NOT press completely dry. For right-side pressing, protect the fabric with a wool press cloth. Avoid heavy pressure on most woolens.

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Technological Advancement Advancements in pressing technology focus on: Greater versatility 38

More precision in determining exact pressing requirement of fabrics and finishes Improved quality Energy savings Microprocessors with a wide variety of settings can control factors such as conveyor speed, steam and air volume, and temperatures. Computers are used to determine settings and control the processing so each garment is treated in exactly the same manner. Energy efficiency of pressing systems have been improved by Increasing insulation to prevent heat loss Developing self-containing systems so that source of heat and steam is closer to pressing unit Including vacuum systems to reduce the amount of heat and steam needed for effective pressing. Portability has been achieved in certain systems by including steam generator and pressing devices in a self-contained unit Automation has been made possible for buck presses and steam tunnels ensuring consistency throughout the operation of pressing.

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