Internship Report and Project Main_Apurv Pranav
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CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION
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1.1 COMPANY OVERVIEW
1.1.1 Introduction: Texport Industries Private Limited (formerly Texport Garments) is a full service group, based in India, built on a platform that strives to achieve a synergy that cannot be compared to the rest, thus allow providing quality apparels, worldwide. Strategically located in Mumbai, Bangalore and Tirupur, the Company harness the best geographical resources available. TIPL, a Underwriters Laboratories certified ISO 9001:2000 company is a well-known and reputed business house for its ethical standards and commitment. Closely held by the Goenka family since its inception in 1978, TIPL is one of the most well-known and reputed business houses in the garment industry, in India as well as in the International markets. It is one of the first companies in India to start export operations. Known for its quality and commitment to Social Responsibility, it is a pioneer in valuing human relationships. TIPL produces in excess of 1.4 million garments a month (17 million annually) from nineteen directly owned facilities. TIPL's real strength lies in its production, product development and New York presence, with the company's management laying emphasis on QUALITY and PRODUCTIVITY. The company also has highly skilled associates and trained personnel ensuring QUALITY at every level. A lot of attention is given to DETAIL. TIPL hires the best in the industry and make no compromises when it comes to human resources. The Company has skilled and technically qualified personnel manning the machines and processes.
1.1.2 Company: TIPL is a major player in the readymade garment industry across the globe. The Company has a heritage of leadership to honour and preserve. A quick overview: •
Incorporated in 1978, based in India.
•
One of India's largest manufacturer / exporter.
•
Annual revenue of USD 80 million.
•
19 directly owned, fully equipped, modern, manufacturing facilities.
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The facilities are engineered by the renowned Kurt Salmon Associates in association with Technopak.
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Specializes in manufacture of Mens / Womens / Children tops and bottoms.
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An ISO 9001:2000 certification by Underwriters Laboratories.
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Capacity to produce and export 1.6 million garments a month.
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15,000 + employees.
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6000 + machines.
•
A full-fledged in-house design team creating and developing exciting collections each season.
•
Presence in NYC, USA.
TIPL is a major player in the readymade garment industry across the globe having a heritage of leadership to honour and preserve.
1.1.2.1 In House Facilities: •
240 heads of computerized Embroidery machines producing simple and complex embroideries.
•
100 stations of complex hand embroidery.
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Automatic garment crushing.
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Computerized Fabric Cutting System.
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Laser Cutting.
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Circular and Flat Knitting machines making special knit fabrics.
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Automated panel printing.
1.1.2.2 Vision: To be recognized as a premier QUALITY manufacturer and supplier of HiFashion apparels, embodying thus the spirit of commitment and humanity.
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1.1.2.3 Mission: •
Deliver on-time, every time.
•
An eye on product quality and integrity.
• Comply with the needs of the statutory regulatory authority of individual clients. •
Highest productivity, thereby offering a cost advantage to all our clients.
1.1.2.4 Awards: •
Texport has been recognized by the Indian Government Authorities for its contribution to exports from India.
•
Customer Admirations for outstanding performances and creativity.
•
Recognition from National Association of the Blind.
1.1.2.5 Retailing: Texport is a leading player in the readymade garment industry across the globe and has a heritage of leadership to honour and preserve. Texport has a premium label by the name of ROBERT GRAHAM across the US and other international destinations as well.
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1.1.3 Peoples and Values: The biggest asset of the Company is their people. Texport Garments is a team of devoted professionals who take pride in their accomplishments. With the same dedicated team of key people working with their customers over the years, they have developed a close partnership catering to their specific needs. “Success is sweetest when it is shared”. The Company’s success and recognition is in part due to their passion for delivering top quality products and services to their customers. The Company emphasizes very firmly on teamwork and are renowned as a fair negotiator. The Company is mission driven and result oriented, and when they promise, they deliver. They are 100% proactive and quick to capture new opportunities in the market. At the same time, they are very adaptive and they mirror the operations of their customers to best fit their individual requirements.
1.1.4 Products: •
TIPL, Unit-10 mainly focuses on Men’s woven Shirt.
•
Products of other units are:-
1. Tops
6. Polos
2. Dress shirts
7. Hoodies
3. Denim shirts
8. Kids wear
4. Wrinkle free shirts and blouses 9. Cargo shorts 5. Bottoms casual wear
10. Night wear
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1.1.5 Infrastructure: The Company is well equipped with state of the art machines and sophisticated technology that result in flawless production of quality garments and optimize efficiency.
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1.1.5.1 Quality Initiatives: An ISO 9001:2000 Underwriters Laboratories Inc. certified company, the commitment to quality improvement, touches every aspect of the product, service and customer support.
1.1.5.2 Technology Initiatives: A technology driven company, they take innovative technology initiatives to offer finest quality garments to their clients.
1.1.5.3 Compliant Facilities: All the facilities conform to compliance norms of individual customers covering social, ethical and C-TPAT standards.
1.1.5.4 Machines: Texport uses state of the art machines and the most advanced technologies in its factories.
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1.1.5.5 Trims: Top class trims from the following international brands.
1.1.6 CSR: •
The Company recognizes the differently challenged in their employment and give them an equal opportunity to lead a normal life
•
For this endeavor, The Company was recognized by His Excellency, the Governor of the State of Karnataka, India, and was awarded on behalf of the National Association for the Blind.
•
The Goenka family has floated the “Smt. Shivdevi Deviprasad Goenka Foundation” which conducts free medical camps every quarter benefiting hundreds of patients having various ailments.
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It also runs a free hospital and gives medical treatment that specializes in cataract operations and other ailments. More than five thousand patients have benefited thus far.
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The Company is also associated with the “Rotary D.G. Goenka Blood Bank”, which runs blood donation camps every year.
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Vocational Training programs are conducted with respect to the garment industry.
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1.1.7 Work Culture: •
At Texport, the chief objective is to nurture growth at all levels. The Company strives to attract, organizational and business growth through talented, engaged and committed employees. To achieve this they focus on learning, career development, performance management, compensation and benefits.
•
The Company’s role is to ensure that Texport is a true 'learning habitat', which grooms people and their talents giving them the skills they need to excel. Hence, training of personnel at all levels of organization is an essential component to augment. Their training programs are all-pervasive and are structured to hone the specific skills of each employee.
•
Finally, the Company plays an essential role in shaping development processes that help people advance their careers as far and as fast as they can. At Texport, it’s all about people.
•
Why Texport? Because they create an environment that no associate can willingly walk out of. The loyalty/ stability index of the company, accurately reflects the high levels of associate empowerment it generates and associates' satisfaction.
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An open, flexible work environment.
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Challenges and learning opportunities that keep one at their creative and competitive best.
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Performance measurement and imaginative reward systems.
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Productivity linked incentives and industry standard compensation.
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Multiple growth avenues.
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State-of-the-art infrastructure to work with.
1.1.8 Buyers: TOMMY HILFIGER GAP TOM TAILOR BERKLEY SHIRTS SHIRTS WALLMARTS
AMERICAN EAGLES ESPIRIT OLD NAVY PEPE JEANS
JC PENNY
KIKOMO
LEE GUESS JEANS ARROW ARROW
VAN HEUSEN
GUESS H&M
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KHOLS
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1.2 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE
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CHAPTER 2 DEPARTMENTAL OVERVIEW
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2.1 HR DEPARTMENT
2.1.1 Introduction: Human Resources Management (HRM) is the design of formal systems in an organization that ensure the effective and efficient use of human talent to accomplish organizational goals. HR is the personnel and administration head which is responsible for problem solving between Employee and Management.
2.1.2 Roles of HR Department: •
Collecting data about man power requirement plan from IE department.
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HR discusses with Management on the man power requirement plan and come to agreeable terms on it.
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HR Manager plays an important role in selection of a candidate for a job at the time of interview.
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Personal files of all the employees are maintained following all statutory norms.
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HR handles both its subordinates as well as higher management at ease.
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HR is involved with company and labor welfare activities.
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HR conducts new workers induction meeting.
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HR takes a tour of the factory on regular basis to check health and safety issues.
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Over time hours is kept within the legal limits, If found any excusive of overtime HR discusses with the Management.
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All statutory returns are submitted on time like declaration forms, monthly returns, half yearly returns and annual returns.
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HR checks the wage record and in & out time record of each employee every month. Wage record and time record is made available on 10 th day of every month.
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2.1.3 Absenteeism & Turn over resolving: To prevent the employee turnover, the following points must be kept in mind:•
Adequate selection and placement.
• Testing should select only the candidates that have the required skills for the job. •
Interviews should serve as an additional screen for applicants.
•
Watching for turnover indicators such as:-Workers who don’t own a house. -Worker younger than 25. -People with children below 4 years of age. -People that are overly educated for the position. -People that have had many jobs in a short period of time.
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Good induction program.
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Keeping a permanent watch over signs of turnover such as absenteeism.
• Make the workplace feel empowered challenged and accepted by the company.
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2.2 DESIGN DEPARTMENT
Design Department
Buyer’s Inspiration
Texport’s own Development
Obtain information reg. fabrics,
Create Mood board and Color
styles, silhouettes, color, etc. from
board with Designs, Styles,
WGSN (Worth Global Style
Silhouettes, etc. from various
Network)
source.
Decides color, fabric, style, etc. from own inspiration or from Collect fabric, develop designs.
other sites. Finalising designs by HOD Develop collection on various categories in Sampling dept.
Presentation of the collection to the buyer.
Short listing of samples by buyer.
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2.3 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
2.3.1 Basic Work Flow: In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern and are made according to the Buyer’s specification. In Texport, Sampling department is centralized in Head Office for woven. It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a complete make through garment. There are several stages involved in the Sampling Department which involves the making of different types of Samples at different stages in the industry. All these stages are briefly described and explained below. In the starting stage, the Sampling Department receives an indent from the Merchandiser which is similar to the Tech pack but it does not contain all the details that are present in the Tech pack. The details in the indent include measurements, location of trims and accessories, flat sketch of the front and the back view, the enlarged flat sketch of the areas which needs to be taken care of, the various accessories required and their placements in the garment. As soon as the sampling department receives the indent they choose the designers whom they feel are good for the particular style or expert in that particular field and then they start developing the patterns for the style. The duration for the receipt of the indent and the starting of developing the pattern is about one to two days maximum. After developing the patterns, the Sampling Department does the costing cad marker and develops Sample simultaneously. Costing cad marker: This type of the marker is done prior to the order approval for knowing the exact fabric consumption for the given style. Here the fabric utilization percentage is maximized by technical methods of marker making using software. Develop Sample: In this type of the Sample the actual trims and accessories are not used even the fabric is substituted and this is made according to the Buyer’s specification and the Buyer here emphasizes on the fit and the shape of the garment being produced. The time taken to generate this develop Sample is about a week and the duration APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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of time from the pattern development and develop Sample generation is about two to three days. Develop Sample is prepared of the basic size that has been preferred for that particular style. After generating this Sample there is a gap of about fifteen to twenty days and after which the Sampling Department develops the Proto Sample. Proto Sample: In this Sample a substitute of the fabrics and the trims is used and after making this Sample the company (i.e., Texport Industries Pvt. Ltd.) can suggest any changes in the garment to the Buyer. If the Buyer approves then the changes are incorporated else it is followed as the Buyer specifies. This Sample is also judged according to its design and style. After generating these Samples, the Samples are taken to the Merchandiser and then the Merchandiser checks the Sample if it has met the specifications, if the Merchandiser has any comment regarding the production of the Sample then he asks for the changes in the areas where the Sample has not met the Buyer’s specification, if the Merchandiser has no comments then the he takes the Samples to the Buyer for his approval. Suppose the Buyer has any comments or corrections then he sends for the re-preparation of the Sample by specifying the areas which has to be mended. If the Buyer approves the fit Sample, then the Buyer’s order is confirmed. Once the proto Sample has been approved the fit Sample is prepared and this is purely done on the Buyer’s approval and this Sample is made to check the size and measurement of the garment and for this Sample either actual or substitute fabric, trims and accessories are used. After the approval of the fit Sample by the Buyer a PP (Pre-Production) Sample is generated. Here actual fabric, trims and accessories are used. The PP Sample is sent to the Buyer and a Sample is kept for the company/firm only for the internal testing and maintaining their records and standards. After the PP Sample is approved, a Sealer Sample is prepared. In this Sample actual fabric, trims and accessories are used. This Sample is sent to the liaison offices. After the approval of the sealer Sample a Size Set Sample is generated and in this type of sampling system the Samples are generated not only for the basic size instead the Samples are generated for all the sizes for which the Buyer has asked for example if the Buyer has asked for a formal shirt with sizes 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 then Sample is taken out of each preferred size and then produced it to the Buyer. After the size set Sample is approved by the Buyer then the Buyer sends a request to the Merchandiser for the bulk production and then the production is APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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carried out in the similar method by using similar machines without altering any of the procedures and manufacturing is done. The first piece of production, known as TOP Sample (Top Of Production Sample) is sometimes asked by Buyer to know production date and if it matches with Sealer Sample.
Tech pack received from merchant Develop patterns
Costing CAD marker
Develop Sample Develop fit/proto sample
If any comments
If no comments
comments
PP sample
Revise Fit/Proto sample If any comments comments
If no comments
Revise PP sample
Size Set sample
If any comments comments
If no comments
Incorporate Buyer Comments
Sealer sample
If any comments comments
Incorporate Buyer Comments
If no comments
Bulk Production
Workflow of Sampling Department
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2.3.2 Machines in Sampling Section are:•
SNLS machine
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DNLS machine
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Bartack machine
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Overlock machine
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Kansai Special
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Zigzag Lockstitch machine
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Blind stitch machine
2.3.3 Garment Sample: After the confirmation of order, each Sample sent to the Buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the Buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used. •
Ref no.
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Color
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Fabric
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Composition
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Description
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Quantity
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Style no/ Size
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Store
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2.4 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
2.4.1 Introduction: Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the Buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. Merchandising is the central coordinating point for the product line. Merchandising is the planning development, development and presentation of product line for identified target markets with regard to prices, assortments, styling and timing. Merchandisers may be involved in the materials manufacturing, apparel manufacturing and retailing levels of the apparel business. According to William J. Stenton merchandising is defined as “Product planning to get the right product or service to the market at the right time, at right price, in right colors and sizes”. The Merchandiser should be able to answer each and every question to the Buyer, be able to give suggestions, handle the presentation of the Sample collection, should be able to make on the spot costing and generally built by confidence with the Buyer. The export documentation involves the preparation of the specified number of copies of the prescribed documents pertaining to the different procedures. Recently different forms used in the export documentation have been standardized and aligned. Goods may be exported to foreign markets by Sea, Airport, & Land. There are three basic terms of payments in international trade. They are as follows:a. Document of acceptance b. Document against payment c. Letter of credit
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2.4.2 Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows: •
Product Development
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Market And Product Analysis
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Selling The Concept
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Booking Orders
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Confirming Deliveries
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Designing And Sampling Coordination
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Costing
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Raw Material
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Flow Monitoring
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Production Follow Ups
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Payments
A general sequence of operations followed in executing order is shown below: •
The Buyer sends costing inquiry sheet.
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If the target price specified by the Buyer is agreed by the Merchandiser.
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Lab dips.
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Lab dips/swatches are sent to the Buyer for approval.
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The Buyer sends purchase order/placement kit.
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Prototype/fit Sample and accessories are sent to the Buyer for approval.
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The Buyer gives instruction to the Merchandiser if any corrections are to be made.
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Purchase orders for fabrics and accessories are issued to the suitable manufacturers for specified quantity and quality.
•
Photo-Sample sent to the Buyer for approval.
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Production of the garment and finishing of the garment.
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Packing of garment in poly bag and finally in cartons.
The Buyer gives the specification sheet, which contains A to Z details of the order, to the export and asks him to give the pricing. After studying the order thoroughly, the export calculates the fabric consumption garment required and the price of the fabric. Based on the fabric price and consumption he calculated the cost per far.
If the Buyer agrees the price and the order is confirmed then the following activities are carried out: •
Scrutinizing the order/letter of credit/check expiry and last shipment date.
•
Releasing the order to the factory.
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Arranging for finance.
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Follow up to enquirer execution or order.
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Pre-shipment execution.
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Effecting the shipment.
Having accepted order, now place the order on your factory, the order should clearly specify the following: •
Complete description of the product.
•
Complete packing specification.
•
Delivery schedule specifying details of dates when the material should be ready for dispatch.
•
Details of the pre-shipment inspection, if any.
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The date by which you should packing list, inspection certificates and any other relevant document.
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•
Any other valid instructions.
After confirming the order the Buyer sometimes gives Sample of the garment and asks the exporter to submit an exact replica of the same in actual fabric or in any alternative fabric for the style approval. After checking the photo Sample, the Buyer gives comments on it, if any and asks the exporter to submit the size set Samples.
The Buyer also specifies the details of the fabric to be used in manufacture of the garments. The exporter must know who supplies what kind of fabric, his quality, and delivery time etc. After getting the greige fabric, it has to be sent for processing. Before sending or starting processing, say for example dyeing, lab dips has to be collected from the processing unit and it has to be sent for approval to the Buyer. After getting approval in lab dip, the bulk fabric has to dye. Before starting the cutting, care should be taken to see that all the accessories should be in house and it has to be approved by the Buyer. All the comments given by the Buyer on the size set Sample has to be clearly explained to the production manager and on approval Sample along with all the accessories should be given to the finishing in charge. After final inspection the goods should be shipped, to the respective port.
2.4.3 Explanation of the process in Detail: Marketing and merchandising department: A team of Merchandisers and marketers working together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign Buyers. The teams are made according to the Buyers being handled.
Roles and Responsibility of Merchandiser: a. Buyer contact and communication: It is the single most important function at both pre and post shipment stages. Merchandiser will be Buyer’s representative within the organization and also, represents own organization. b. Product Development: Merchandiser should know and understand Buyer’s requirement completely and thoroughly and must be aware of Buyer characteristics, he or she should APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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be aware of market segment, price-points, age-groups, fashion preferences, color, trend, styles and fabrics forecasts. They should have a thoroughly source market and product knowledge and commercial viability. c. Costing and Pricing: Merchandiser must have thorough and accurate knowledge of current market rates of raw materials operating, costs, price, and competition profit; panning etc they must also bear in mind Buyer’s price point and the purchasing ability of the end customer. d. Selling and Booking of Order: They must try, getting the Buyer to buy in buying meeting. (Trade fairs, Buyerseller meets, etc.). e. Production Follow-Up: Clean, detailed production dockets. He or she should interface with other departments, especially between sampling and production and should keep up-to-date information to the Buyer. f. Quality Control: Must try to meet Buyer’s quality requirements. Random quality checks should be done at various stages of production and must keep in mind commercial viability. g. Shipping and Documentation: It begins with the order confirmation and involves pre-shipment and post shipment documentation. It must be sent to the Buyer on time. Terms of sale, production, shipment, etc. must always be kept in mind. Final shipment like when, how, where should be kept in mind. Final shipment like when, where should be kept in mind.
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior Merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the Buyer, the garment styles that meet Buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior Merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with Buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get Samples approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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of production Samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the Buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future Buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry.
The Merchandiser at first will obtain the tech pack from the Buyer or get brief idea of the style and also takes a Sample from the Buyer of the base size. Once this is done the Merchandiser will have to do the two major important jobs, which are as follows:a) Costing: This involves three major steps. Firstly, the analysis of the fabric consumption which is calculated using the CAD department. The CAD department will look through the style and design of the garment and generally about 3 – 5% of extra fabric will be kept in mind for the entire order quantity in order to cope up with the wastages of the fabric. This consumption is generally done for one basic garment size suggested either by the Buyer or the Merchandiser. Secondly, they analyze the cost of the trims and fabrics according to their requirement, type, quantity, etc. (here the Merchandiser has to quote the exact requirement of fabrics and trims). Then the merchants prepare the cost sheet for the Sample garment which they receive from the Buyer. Thirdly, the merchants obtain the GSD (General Sewing Data) from the IE Department for that particular Sample. b) Sampling: The costing and the sampling for the style, that the Buyer would have given, happen simultaneously. The merchants give the copy of the tech pack to the Sampling department as soon as they get it from the Buyer and then ask them to generate a Sample as per the specifications given in the tech pack (here the trims and the fabrics used will not be the same as that in the original Sample given by the Buyer). After developing the initial Sample, if the Buyer asks for the proto Sample then the proto Sample will be generated by the sampling department. Now the Merchandiser holds the responsibility to send the quotation to the Buyer as per the calculations he / she would have done for the style the Buyer wants. This quotation involves the cost sheet and the Sample which would have APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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been generated and this is done generally by the Merchandiser himself i.e. the merchants will visit the Buyer and give them the quotation or sometimes the Buyer will visit the factory and take them. Once this is done the entire approval or the rejection of the order lies in the hands of the Buyer. If the quotation or the Sample is not approved then the cost sheet or the Sample has to be worked again and if it is approved, that is if the order is confirmed then the Merchandiser has to follow further steps.
The Merchandiser has to call for the meeting which will involve various departments like the planning, sourcing, purchasing, washing, finishing, embroidery and the IE departments. During this meeting several questions will be solved and the flow of the order will be discussed amongst all the departments. Firstly, the Planning department works on the following details:•
PCD (Plan Cut Date)
•
Sewing line / batch which will be suitable for the particular style.
•
Capacity-wise planning the allocation of the style to the batch.
•
Requirements of machines in order to manufacture the garment.
•
Any specialized machines if required.
•
The line balancing details etc.
Secondly, the Sourcing and the Purchasing department work on the following details:•
The date for ordering the trims / fabric from the supplier.
• The break – up of quantity for which the departments should place the order. •
Specifications of the fabrics and trims will be discussed.
•
Mode of payment.
Thirdly, the Washing, Embroidery and Finishing departments. If the style demands for any type of embroidery work then the capacity and the availability of the embroidery department has to be checked. The washing department has to confirm if it can fulfil the specifications on time as required
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by the Buyer. The availability of the washing and the finishing department is very important as the washing unit is the centralized department. Finally, the IE department, • They have to give the details of the types of workers/laborers who have to be used for the particular style in the sewing floor. • They give the ratio of the three grades of the workers which are to be utilized for the style. •
They mention the availability and the capacity of the operators.
•
Obtain the GSD for the style.
The Merchandiser collects all the details from all the above mentioned departments and then tabulates them / organizes them as per their requirement and enters all the details in the software. Hence, the execution of the approved order begins. Every Buyer will have his own terminologies for the Samples, the merchants have to go according to the Buyer’s choice of type and the number of Samples and provide them as and when they require it. Once all the Samples as per the Buyer requirement is done, which takes about 15 – 20 days, then the merchants have to wait for the Buyer’s approval of the Sample. If the Buyer rejects them then the reasons for the rejection is received from the Buyer in the form of comments and all that will be incorporated and the mistakes will be rectified and the Samples will be made again as per the revised requirements. After this the Samples have to be approved by the Buyer again. Suppose the Samples are approved by the Buyer then the Merchandiser holds a PP (Pre – Production) meeting with the planning and IE department. In this PP meeting several issues are discussed like, •
Line plan based on the SAM value.
•
Based on the line plan, the quantity that has to be processed each day.
After the PP meeting the loading is done to the batch and the cutting is also carried out. Once the execution of the bulk order begins, at first, the batch will have a duration of about 3 – 4 days for the batch setting in which the entire batch is given time to get adjusted to the new style and at this time all the operators are given a proper training and they are also educated about the proper method that they are supposed to follow in order to finish their job with ease. After the batch setting is done and the style is under proper production, APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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it has to be followed by all the units of the production department and then they have to update it to the Buyer. The production and merchandising department has to submit the required documents to the documentation department. Once the first set of finished garments are out, they have to be sent for the final inspection which is done according to the Buyer’s specifications and terms. The garments are again checked by the Buyer QC and then shipped and sent to the Buyer. After the garments are sent to the Buyer, the Merchandiser has to follow up the payments for the trucked goods.
2.4.4 Documents Maintained By Merchandisers:•
Sample status file
•
Trims approval
•
Testing requirement for fabric and trims
•
Lab approval
•
Costing sheet
•
Purchase order for fabric and trims
•
Fit comments
•
Maintaining swatch card
•
Maintaining style requirement sheet
•
Time and action calendar
•
Production status
•
Shipment documents
•
Final audit report
•
File of trim status
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Start
Obtain tech pack from buyer
Costing
Sampling
Analyze fabric
Analyze cost of trims
Obtain general sewing
Develop sample as per the
consumption from CAD
and fabric
data from IED
Tech pack
Prepare cost sheet from
Develop proto sample
Sample
Cost sheet & Sample sent to Buyer for approval
Confirmation of
Cost sheet
No
Yes Approval
order
reworked
Obtain PCD & details
Source Trims & Fabric
Book Washing & Embroidery
Obtain GSD from
from production unit
from concerned dept.
capacity if required
IED
Execution of order
Prepare Sample as per Buyer requirements
Forward the Sample to Buyer for approval Hold pre-production meeting with the
bulk order
No Approval
Production unit
Execute
Comments received from Buyer Yes
should be incorporated and Fit Sample reworked
Submit required
Offer garments for
Follow up on
production
documents to
final inspection.
the payments
departments &
documentation dept.
Truck out
for goods
Follow up with
End
update the buyer
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Flowchart of Merchandising Process
2.5 FABRIC DEPARTMENT
2.5.1 Fabric Store: The fabric store is responsible for issuing fabric to the cutting section as per DCPO (Different country purchase order). Before start of production of any order the Head office (HO) sends a package to the unit (TIPL-10). This package consists of the following documents: •
Job card
•
Purchase Order (PO)
•
Pre-production mini marker
•
Pre-production Sample
•
Quality comments
•
Audited tech pack
•
Graded Spec sheet
•
Complete trim card etc.
If there are any changes or corrections to be made in these documents the unit communicates with the merchandising division in HO, else they proceed with the details given. Fabric consumption for a particular order is calculated by adding 2-5% of extra fabric as per Buyer requirements. Then HO places order for the required fabric. Once the fabric reaches the warehouse it is sent for testing in Texport laboratory in the Godown. After the fabric is tested it is sent to the fabric store of the unit. After receiving the fabric in store, the store in-charge checks for the fabric code, color, yardage as mentioned, no. of rolls and other details on the fabric package. Then the fabric is inspected randomly for defects and then fabric is segregated shade-wise and width-wise in to different lots. These lots are issued to the cutting department.
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2.5.2 The Basic Functions of the Fabric Store:•
Check for the variations in the fabric.
•
Physical testing for defects, shades and width variations.
•
Approval, rejection or sub standardization of fabric lot.
•
Classification of fabric in various shades
•
Preparation of swatches mentioning shades and their respective quantity.
•
The Fabric Audit dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check.
•
First of all the Merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the fabric sub store head. The required number of pieces (garments) is given in the sheet.
•
After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is given.
•
Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This contains the inspection details of the fabric. The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the Merchandiser. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric required per garment.
•
Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric details (Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The incharge calculates the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste percentage.
•
2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.
•
This chart is sent to the Merchandiser and the required quantity of the fabric is ordered.
•
Preparation of FCR (fabric consumption report).
2.5.3 Goods Receiving:
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Head office calculates the fabric consumption for the particular job order and place the order for fabric with 3% extra fabric in case of solid and 5% in case of checks. The head office tells the feature of fabric to the supplier as per Buyer requirement. The fabric supplier sends the fabric for lab testing to any testing unit. The Buyer required testing mainly for:•
Dimensional stability to washing.
•
Appearance after wash.
•
Color fastness to laundering, light, crocking and non-chlorine bleach.
•
Tensile strength.
•
Tear strength.
They match the result with scale which in between 1-5. 5- Excellent, 4-very good, 3- Average, 2-poor,1- Very poor.
2.5.4 Physical Testing & Inspection: Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects based on the total number of defects found during inspection of a Sample as a basis for acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty points are assigned base on the standard fault. For every type of fault color stickers are put, to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.
4 Point System: This method is widely adopted in the industry. In this system the points are given for the defects in the fabric depending on the size of the fabric. Defects in Length Wise and Width Wise:DEFECTS
POINTS
1. Up to 3’’
0ne
2. Over 3’’-6’’
Two
3. Over 6’’-9’’
Three
4. Over 9’’
Four
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After noting down the points the points/ 100 sq. yard is calculated using the formula, Points/100 sq. yd.=Total points*(100* 100)/(total number of meters*width of fabric)
4 Point System Fabric width The rule for this system is to give points to each defect found in a fabric role/than. 4p
36'' 3''
1p
36''
2''
36''
2p
36'' 6''
4p
2'' hole
points are based on following criteria : Fault less than 3'' (7.5cm) in length Fault up to 3''-6'' (7.5-15cm ) in length Fault up to 6''-9'' (15-23cm) in length Fault over 9'' (23cm) in length
= 1 point = 2 points = 3 points = 4 points
Hole size less than or equal to 1'' Hole size more than 1''
= 2 point = 4 point
36'' 10''
The maximum number of points for any linear yard (36''Xfabric width ) can not be more than 4 points.
Here the point/sq. yd. is found out & the result can be interpreted as if the point/sq. yd. is below 40 points the fabric is considered as first quality. 40 points /sq. yd. is not a fixed standard and vary depending up on Buyer/Country or type of fabric. All the fabrics are inspected as per the Four Point inspection system. Under the Four Point system penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size (internationally accepted) for every type of fault, colored stickers are put to identify serious defects in the subsequent process.
2.5.5 Physical Tests Performed On Fabric: •
Shrinkage test
•
After wash effect
•
Color fastness to washing
•
Color fastness to crocking and staining
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•
Color fastness to light
•
Dimensional stability
•
Tensile strength
•
Tear strength
•
Count, EPI, PPI, and width
Shade Batching: Heads ends approximately 6” long will be cut from every inspected roll and this will be used to determine shade variation at the beginning, middle and the end of the roll, side to side shade variation checks are carried out at this stage by comparing the two sides of the fabric roll closer to the selvedge. Rolls with a consistent shade within will then be checked roll to roll shading using the head ends. If significant variations in shades are found at this stage, rolls inspected will be batched according to the number of the major shades, roll inspected will be batched according to the number of major shades groups and this information too will be recorded in the inspection report along with swatches representing each shade group. Width Batching: Each inspected roll will be measured for the cut table width at the beginning, center and the width of the roll and the measurement thus obtained will be recorded in the space provided in the inspection report. The narrowest width will be considered as the cut table width. If the variance in the cut table is more than 1% then Quality Assurance Manager will decide on whatever additional checks deemed necessary. Any loss arising from cut table width being shorter than invoiced width is notified to the merchandising department for the further action. The stores will be measuring the fabric width of all the pieces goods they received. 100% will be done for all the consignments. Then it will be grouped widthwise, total yardage of the each width group with a packing list is submitted to the planning department after the inspection for the purpose of the marker requirement in different widths. Shrinkage Test: Random selection of 10% of the rolls is tested from each lot/batch. Two pieces of the fabric “60*60cm” is cut & 50*50cm is marked and single needle stitch on marking. A template has been prepared to enable Accurate marking points covering the length and the width of the fabric at a predetermined APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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distance of 50cm. when the fabric returned from the washing these points are measured and the warp and the weft shrinkage average is calculated in to a percentage. If the shrinkage variation is more than 5% within a batch then a 100% test is performed. The test results are recorded and forwarded to the Q. A. Department and who will liaise with pattern maker for necessary allowance. If the different colors/dye lots show different shrinkage, different patterns will be made accordingly.
Shrinkage Grouping: If an extreme shrinkage rate occurs then a test on every roll will be performed. The results collated and separated into shrinkage groups of a +/-1.5% range. Separate patterns will be made for each group. The shrinkage allowance of embroidery is calculated at the Sample making stage. The pattern maker will add the necessary allowance to the patterns at this point and communicate to the Q.A department.
2.5.6 Fabric Maintenance Reports: •
GPQ check list
•
Quality comments from Buyer
•
Fabric shrinkage reports
•
Test report (Dimensional stability, Color fastness to washing, crocking and staining, Fabric construction, Count, Fabric width)
•
Job card
•
Pre-production Mini Marker
•
Shade band approval forms
•
Bulk approval form (Fabric details, Body fabric and Trim fabric approved swatches, Buyer details etc.)
•
FCR (Fabric consumption report)
2.5.7 Types of Interlinings:•
Woven
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•
Non-woven
•
Fusible
•
Non-fusible
2.5.8 Infrastructure: a. Color Matching Cabinet
Paramount® An ISO 9001:2000 group Spectra vision color matching booth™
Fabric can be matched under following lights:•
D-65: Day light
•
CWF: Cool White Fluorescent Light
•
UV3000: KOHL’s Primary Light
•
INCA: Tungsten Light
•
UV: Ultraviolet Light
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Each Buyer recommends two lights in which the fabric has to be matched, primary and secondary light.
b. Fabric Inspection Machine It consists of a state- of- the- art variable frequency drive inverter for precise speed control and proximity sensors to control the uniformity of edges.
Ramsons® checkmate Model No: RFI01E
This machine is used to check different kinds of defects mentioned above. The fabric is checked and sent to the factory from the head office. So only 10% of fabric is checked in the factory and the rest is just relaxed and sent to the cutting section.
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Process Flowchart of Fabric Department
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2.6 ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENT
2.6.1 Trims Storage: Trim storage is used to store all the trims and accessories for the order that is currently being processed and for the ones that are next in turn. On receiving the final P.O the Merchandiser submits a request for all the requirements for that particular order. The Merchandiser tells about the requirements for particular order, as soon as the order is confirmed. The store department procures the desired material i.e. trims, accessories, etc. and stores it in trim and stationary department. The trims and accessories for each order are kept in the place allotted for that order number. The department receives the Material Order Form from the Merchandiser, which has all the details of the material to be ordered for a particular order in case of the trims and accessories of the garments. The Material order form contains data like:•
Order no.
•
Buyer
•
Style
•
Order quantity(no. of pieces)
•
Shade
•
Quantity to be ordered
•
Vendor
•
Delivery date, etc.
The Merchandiser then gives the Purchase Request to the material based on which they prepare the PO (purchase order). The order is placed according to this and then the materials and stores prepare a Material Receipt which contains the details like quantity, party, etc. This is prepared for the accounts department so that can take the payments at the right time.
2.6.2 Types of Trims: APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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•
Labels
•
Price tag
•
Sewing Thread
•
Embroidery Thread
•
Fusing
•
Buttons
•
Zipper
•
Interlining
•
Mobilon tape
•
Hanger
•
Poly bag
•
Style ID
•
Cartons
•
Draw cords
•
Buckles
•
Stoppers
•
Velcro
•
Tapes
2.6.3 Sub-types of Trims: Threads
: Cotton, Polyester, 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s up to 200s.
Buttons
: Snap buttons, Normal buttons, 14L, 16L, 18L, 20 L, 22L, 24L, 26L, 28L, 30L, 32L, 34L.
Button Hole : Normal kaja, Rise kaja. Zippers
: Vision, Coiled coil, Metal.
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Draw cords : Elastic, Normal. Stoppers
: Cylindrical, Pig nose, Bell, Ball.
Hangers hanger.
: Shirt hanger, Clip hanger, Jacket hanger, Heavy weight
Labels
: Main label, Size label, Content label, Country origin Wash care label, Special label.
Packing
: Hanger pack, Plate pack, Stand pack.
Polly bag
: Individual, Master poly bag.
Cartoon
: Inner Carton, Outer Cartoon.
2.6.4 Procedure for Trims Inspection: •
On receipt of the trims, a count accuracy check should be done against the factory purchase order or the Buyer cutting ticket.
•
A store status report is created, in case of multiple receipts, updated report to be generated at least every week if not on each receipt.
•
Based on the trims list of the customer, trim cards are created in 7 sets.
•
The concerned Merchandiser/buying office will sign off an approval and send it back to the store with the MTL test report if any for various trims.
•
The trims store will inspect 10% of the trims and generate a report with closure on quantities and quality.
•
On higher rejection percentage of the trims, then the trims store has to advise the merchants and await instructions in terms of return to the supplier, order additional trims of cover for rejections and apportionment of the cut ticket till balance of the trims are received.
•
The trims store has to maintain a style file for each style.
•
The storage of the trims has to be style wise with its trim file easily accessible with bin card updated with each issue.
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Start Requisition of Trims
Order Trims
Trims receipt by HO
Verify materials against invoice/ Delivery Challan & packing list
Carry out quality & quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5
Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item
Prepare delivery Challan & keep trims ready to issue to the factories Trims received by the Factory and Inspection is done before issuing for production
End
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Process Flowchart of Accessories Department
2.7 CUTTING DEPARTMENT
2.7.1 Introduction: The first stage in the manufacture of the garment is cutting of the material into required shapes. They are often joined by means of seam to create a three dimensional garment. Cutting process plays a vital role in a garment industry. The major cost of garment is fabric, which is accounting to 60-70% of the total cost. It is therefore essential that actual usage of fabric should be controlled APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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for economical production. A well-designed cutting process will yield an excellent result in the overall performance of operations. The cutting department is an essential part of any garment-manufacturing unit, because the fabric is one raw material, which constitutes to more than 50% of the total cost of the garment and it has to be cut into patterns and a lot is on stake, if any problem arises in this section then it can affect the order drastically. The first stage in the manufacture of the garments is the cutting of the materials into the necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments are drawn as to their shape and position, which may be held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on the paper marker. The cutting department at Texport Industries Pvt. Ltd., TPIL-10 unit is a combined section for spreading cutting and ticketing .Spreading is done manually in the company. Cutting department has straight knife, band knife, end cutter and fusing machine. Total manpower of cutting room is 71.
2.7.2 Objectives of Cutting: •
To separate fabric parts as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker.
•
Cutting of garment parts accurately and economically and in sufficient volume and to keep the sewing room supplied with work.
2.7.3 Procedure: •
Spreading is one of the most important stage in cutting, QC has to confirm the lay length & has to check for looseness & tension of the lays. No tolerance of minus in spreading as against the marked length.
•
Lays shouldn’t lean on one another & should be straight
•
Before cutting, the QC will confirm that all the parts of the garments are there in the marker before cutting & the same will be recorded.
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•
After cutting, three panels ( top, centre & bottom ) of every part will be checked against the hard pattern for shape, notch, mis-cut, size & then will be allowed for numbering (size & lot#) with different colors of stickers for different sizes.
•
After numbering QC has to confirm for the accuracy of the same.
•
After numbering, the panels will be checked for fabric defects, proper numbering, balancing for stripes as per requirement (metering/nonmetering), balancing & placement of notches.
•
Fusing of plackets / collars is being done in the fusing machine & the same is being recorded with thermostatic strips.
•
Marking for plackets & embroidery placements is being done before bundling.
•
As per the requirement, all the parts will be bundled along with bundling ticket & submitted for auditing.
•
Before loading to Sewing, the bundles will be audited for shape, notches, size, numbering, no. of pieces against the bundle ticket & lot/shade-wise tags will be issued along with every bundle for identification of shades while washing & to segregate shade wise packing in washed programme.
The cutting room manager/master gets a docket which contains ratio color wise, quantity breakdown, style wise cutting and other details of the fabric; he prepares a cut plan based on the docket and issue to the in charge. According to the cut plan fabric is received from the stores through requisition and stored in a fabric buffer area where the fabric is released and the width of the fabric is checked. The manager/master issues a layer format to the layman, which contains the length and width of the fabric, number of layers to be laid. The layer man according to the format laid the fabric, before lying of the fabric a brown paper is spread and stuck to the table to minimize slippage of the fabric. After the laying is over marker received from cad is spread over the piles laid for cutting of patterns or patterns are manually marked for check fabrics and then the pins are inserted for stiffness. Cutter does cutting manually and issue the cutting to the numbering section where numbering is done on each cut parts according to the sizes. Then the parts that require fusing are fused in a fusing machine. Then, the cut parts are checked by checkers and it is passed to sorting section where sorting is done and twenty pieces are bundled in APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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bundling section then final auditing is carried out. Here, each parts are checked according to AQL 2.5 system and then cut parts are dispatched to various units according to the requirements.
2.7.4 Methods of Marker Planning: •
Manual marker planning with full size pattern in a full size marker
•
Carbon duplicating
•
Computerized marker planning
•
Photographic method
2.7.5 Methods of Spreading: •
Spreading by hand
•
Spreading using a traveling machine
2.7.6 Machines used in Cutting Department: •
Spreading machine
•
End cutters
•
Straight knife cutters
•
Band knife cutter
•
Fusing machine
2.7.7 Formats used in the Cutting Department: •
Job order
•
Daily cutting report
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•
Issue Chelan
•
Cutting numbering register
•
Order wise cutting register
•
100% part checking report
•
Minusing record
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Process Flowchart of Cutting Department
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2.7.8 Tools and Equipments: a. Straight Knife The elements of a straight knife consist of a base plate, usually on rollers for ease of movement, an upright or a standard carrying a straight, vertical blade with varying edge characteristics and an electric motor above it, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a sharpening device. The base plate on its rollers slides under the glazed paper, which is spread bellow, the bottom ply of fabric in a lay. The greater the blade movement, the faster the blade cuts the fabric and the more rapidly and easily the operator can push the machine. Initial cutting is done by the straight knife cutter, which is further used for re-cutting of bigger and curvaceous garment parts, that is difficult to be done on the band knife. The blade height is around 8”, therefore the maximum lays are planned accordingly, not to exceed 4”.
b. Band Knife A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an electronic motor with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened. The band knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in a fixed position and the section of the lay to be cut is moved past it. Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required than can be obtained with a straight knife, but cuts the straighter parts mostly. One has to wear metal gloves for safety purpose.
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c. Round Knife Round Knife is basically used for edge cutting while the manual laying or spreading is taking place. It is 200 mm in diameter and has a limitation for not cutting precise at the curve and thus is used for edge cutting as it gives a precise straight line cut. It is used for cutting the plain and stripe fabric, but strictly not for cutting the edge of the check fabric because it causes the problem of bowing if the check fabric gets an off-grain cut.
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The Eastman cloth driller can drill holes through numerous layers of fabric, indicating button holes, darts, pockets and other attachment points. This is perfect for use on loosely knit, bulky or quilted spreads where a mark is needed.
2.7.9 Activities of the Cutting Department: a. Issue Of Fabric Fabric that is required for a particular order is taken from the store department head of cutting issues a slip to the Store Incharge which contains full information order no, style no, lot no , shade , roll no, etc. based on this the store Incharge sends/issues the fabric rolls to the cutting section. The Store Incharge feeds all the information in the computer so that any information about a particular roll can be easily traced out. Also idea about stock in store can be easily retrieved.
b. Spreading Of The Lay APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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•
Brown paper is spread below the fabric lay.
•
Marker length and no of pieces to be cut is decided by the unit re check the marker length and marker, if there is any difference in the data then they inform the head office about it else they go as per the plan.
•
After finishing of every roll, a strip was laid on the plies to mark the demarcation of the rolls and a chart was stick to the last ply which had information about roll no., size ratio , & no of pieces of a particular size , name of operator.
•
Laying is done Manually laying was used for the stripe fabric and solid fabric operators have the laying chart in which lay length and number of plies to be lay is given according to it operators lay the plies. Two operators are used in the laying.
c. Bundling Section The various steps in the bundling section are as followsd. Sorting Cut parts are sorted in required number of bundles. It eases the Material Flow, a right size of bundle is decided in this stage so that the flow of material remains smooth and the WIP neither increases nor decreases between the operations. The bundle size is decided by keeping in mind the type of the fabric design. If the fabric is solid, then the shade variation is more, so, the bundle size is kept low, i.e. generally 50 and not above 50 in any case. But for the checks and stripes, where the shade variation is not that frequent, this bundle size generally depends on the number of lays and can be as much as the number of lays, which can be as much as 300. e. Numbering As soon as the cut pieces are checked, they are numbered. Numbering is done manually. Numbering is done in such a manner that all pieces of one particular garment have one the same number. f. Panel Checking Panel checking is done after numbering to find out the fabric defects. It is especially done after cutting and numbering, to avoid any kind of defect that may occur in the parts and so that the part can be replaced before, it is bundled with the lot. g. Bundling APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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The checked cut pieces are then bundled up with a tag, which contains the entire description about that particular pattern needed by the sewing operators. This description includes:•
Style Number
•
Buyer Name
•
Order Number
•
Shade Number
•
Lot Number
•
Number of Pieces
•
Name of the Part
h. Relay In this section the cut parts are checked. In case of striped and checks fabric pieces are aligned properly, checked for alignment of checks and stripes and cut. Also small parts like pockets are aligned and cut.
2.7.10 Formats Used in the Cutting Department: •
Production Plan for the week: To communicate the styles running, order quantity, size wise break up, color wise break up, delivery dates.
•
GSM record sheet: No standard format existing now. Used to paste before wash and after wash swatches of fabrics along with their GSM values.
•
Lay Record: Multipurpose format. Used for maintaining biting records for each style, used for issuing to spreading operators informing the number of plies to lay and the length of the lay for the particular style and also used for maintaining the signatures of all the spreading and cutting operators who worked on that fabric.
•
Hourly Production Book: Used for maintaining each operator’s hourly production for all activities.
•
Spreading and Cutting Report: Used for filling up the details after the panel inspection of the cut bundles f panels. Used to mention all the
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rework and re-cutting required to be done on the cut panels and the reasons for that. •
Cutting Minusing Book: Maintained as register. Used for mentioning the pieces cut for each style, for all the colors. This is filled up for all the days and every day the pieces remaining to be cut are mentioned on the top of the page. Hence the name “Cutting Minusing”
•
Daily Production Report for Cutting section: Used for maintaining the daily production for each order for each style.
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2.8 SEWING DEPARTMENT
2.8.1 Introduction: The dominant process in garment manufacture is sewing. The objectives of sewing are the construction of seam, which combines the required standard appearance & performance, with an appropriate level of economy in construction. Performance of seams means the achievement of strength, elasticity, durability, security of comfort & the maintenance of any specialized fabric. Properties such as water-proofing or flame proofing, etc. a balance must be achieved when planning garment production between the demands of the end use of the garment, its price & the machinery available for its construction.
2.8.2 Functions: The production floor will receive the details like; •
The style or the garment,
•
Number of operators required,
•
The batch for which the style has to be installed,
•
Any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
•
Target for each day
•
Breakup of the production quantity.
After receiving all these details they send a request for the cut parts from the cutting and sorting section and the request is sent to the accessory stores for all the accessories that are required for the particular style then they start the production for the new style. Before starting the proper production, the production floor does a process of batch-setting for the floor which is training the operators for the new style that has to be produced bulk, this teaching session will go on for about 3 – 4 days. After this batch setting process the production for the next day starts with a smaller commitment i.e., may be for 50 pieces for the entire day and then the production gradually increases from 50 – 100 – 150 and so on, this will make APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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the operators learn slowly and precisely about the processes that has to be carried out for the particular style. Once the cut parts is received from the cutting and sorting section then the parts are prepared and assembled according to the line that is planned. After the assembling of the parts is done, there will be line checking, where the shade matching and the measurements are checked and sent. During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are •
In-process checking.
•
End line checking – Both AQL audit and normal checking exists.
The garment making is divided into three different stages and at these three stages the checking is done. The flow of material in the production floor is through the bundle system and each operator gets a bundle containing similar pieces and there will be about 15 – 20 pieces in each bundle and the operator completely finishes the job and sends it to the next operator to do the next operation on them. Each bundle will contain same component of different garments. The movement of the materials within the operators in the batch/line is generally zig–zag motion. The checking person will be present at a position where the garment is partially finished and it is as mentioned checked thrice in the line and sometimes more than three and this depends on the Buyer as well as the number of components present in the garment.
2.8.3 Batch System: In batch system the work is divided into different operations and each operation is carried out by a particular tailor .this system is also referred to as band system or assembly line, though there is a fine difference between these three . This system is suitable for medium and large scale industry.
2.8.4 Batch Setting: Batch setting is a process of arranging the machines, allotting the machines, dividing the work and planning the number of machines and tailors required .The batch setting varies from one production manager to another .There are no hard rule and fast rules for batch setting but only thing to be taken care is that, there should not be any bottle neck at any stage .This ensures smooth running towards targeted output and is called an ideal batch setting. APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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Batch setting is based on the following factors:•
Style
•
Production required
•
Availability of machines
•
Availability of skilled labors
•
Space
•
Planners
•
The other studies requiring fruition are:
•
Time study
•
Production per shift operation per shift
•
Style study
2.8.5 Role of Supervisor: The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He/she manages the entire batch which is been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform:1. They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators. 2. Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task. 3. Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to them. 4. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to get him/her their material and ask them to work. 5. Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
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6. Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the management. 7. Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever asked for. 8. When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a better person to fit into that vacant place. 9. At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary. 10. The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the factory at any time. The Production Managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the operators.
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Process Flowchart of Sewing Department
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2.9 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
2.9.1 Introduction: In this section the garment is properly finished and packed by giving the required finish for the garment. The garments from sewing section are taken for button holing and button process and are then brought to finishing section.
2.9.2 Process involved in finishing of garments: •
Trimming
•
Washing
•
Checking
•
Alteration
•
Ironing
•
Measurements
•
Tagging
•
Packing
•
Dispatch
2.9.3 Procedure: •
Firstly thread cutting is done to cut the threads that are fraying and entangled.
•
The garments are sent for washing if required.
•
Spotting gun-using solvent does spotting and petrol or any other chemicals required to remove the sticker marks and stains.
•
The garment is fully pressed which is called general pressing.
•
Then general checking is done where the whole garment is checked and if there are any faults in the garment they are sent for alteration to the sewing section.
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•
Any minor alteration is done in the finishing itself.
•
Final checking is done.
•
Final pressing is done by steam iron.
•
Tagging is done.
•
The garments are folded and packed in individual poly bags as specified by the Buyer.
•
The garments are then packed in the carton boxes according to the specification of Buyer.
2.9.4 Functions: The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This department includes majorly of the following steps:•
Trimming:
This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at the stitched areas. •
Inspection:
The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system and sometimes it depends on the Buyer also i.e., if the Buyer emphasizes for a 100% inspection then the company has to do as specified. •
Semi – Pressing:
This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as it comes from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process. •
Pressing:
The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
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•
Tagging Section:
Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing then they are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if any required by the Buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the Buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the Buyer’s specifications again. The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all suggested by the Buyer and the packing is done according to these specifications. •
Packing:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of the garments they are as follows. There are generally two ways of packing the garment:i. The garment is individually packed/wrapped in the poly bag whose design will be specified by the Buyer i.e., either with the hanger attached or plain poly bag packing and then the entire garments (as per the packing criteria) is arranged in the carton box. ii. The other method is that the garments are just folded and arranged in the carton boxes without putting them in the poly bag. The packing criteria followed in each carton box as already mentioned is done in different ways which is as follows: •
Solid Packing: In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same size. For example, 20 shirts of a similar color say navy blue and the size say S will be put in one carton box.
•
Ratio Packing: In this method the carton box includes garments of same color but of different sizes according to the ratio. For example, S : M : L : XL = 5 : 7 : 7 : 5
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•
Mixed Packing: In this method the carton box includes garments of different colors but of same size or garments with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form. After the packing is done the garments are kept in the godown/stores until the Buyer sends the Buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives, he/she will check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or rejected. Garment Receipt from Sewing Washing Button Hole Button Attach Bar Tack Trimming Middle Check Thread Sucking Pressing Button Closing Final Check Folding Packing Process Flowchart of Finishing Department
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2.9.5 The box contains the following information: •
Number of pieces in each carton boxes
•
Style number
•
Size ratio and color ratio
•
Purchase order number
•
Address
•
Bar code stickers
2.9.6 Pressing Equipment: •
Hand iron: Quality depends up on the skill of the operator with bulk arrangements.
•
Steam press: Depends on the type of the garment produced. Here the garment to be pressed is sandwiched between the two plates & heated by the passing steam.
•
Form press: Where no need of crease marks mainly used in jean & suit. Hot air or steam is supplied.
•
Tunnel finisher: Employed where handling of garment should be avoided, employed for suit.
•
Permanent Press: Anti-wrinkle, crease free curing @ very high temperature steamed resin with high temperature is used.
2.9.7 Folding: Types of folding:•
Flats
•
Dead man
•
Half dead man
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Here flat is used in final packing; half dead is used where further process has to be made, dead man only for transportation. 2.9.8 Packing: •
Flat pack
•
Stand-up pack only for formal shirts
•
Half dead & dead plaster pack or bulk packing
•
Hanger pack –garments not folded e.g. suit trousers
The purpose of packing is to safeguard the garment, to make the presentation neat, to make the garment ready for sale.
2.9.9 Carton Packing: This is the final packing done in four ways they are:•
Solid color/solid size
•
Solid color/assorted size
•
Assorted color/solid size
•
Assorted color/assorted size
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2.10 IE DEPARTMENT
2.10.1 Introduction: The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria, operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment. 2.10.2 Functions: The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or not. The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it. The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the Buyers specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that. This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator based on APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time and also maintain the quality of their work. After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch. This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
2.10.3 Roles and Responsibilities of an IE: •
On receipt of production package and study the CIED OB along with the correct Sample understand the operations and requirement of Folder, attachments and skill requirement of operations along with production team and Plan the Layout.
•
After the style review, arrange the style startup meeting with CIED , Finalize the M/C Layout and target along with PM.
•
Make sure the back loading on time m for that closely work with PM for all Sample approvals.
•
Plan the cutting dept. more efficiently to meet the line back loading dates.
•
Make sure the batch setting as per the CIED approved layout .correct skill operators have to place as per the skill matrix.
•
Must affix the target stickers and operators should understand the target of their operations.
•
Ensure Correct WIP is maintained in line during course of production.
•
Follow up Hourly or Bihourly on Low output operators with the help of line in charges and improve the operations on daily basis and give updates to Supervisors as well as PM on hourly /bihourly basis.
•
IE head is responsible all production reports.
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•
Make sure all KSA systems in place in each department.
2.10.4 Line Balancing: Line balancing is a process exercise by which a production supervisor can balance output & input. The success and failure of supervisors & manager depends on his or her knowledge about production line balancing. Good supervisor who has a good knowledge of about line balancing can enjoy shop floor, in other hand a supervisor who does not only know about line balancing cannot sit for a minute in the shop floor. So, to balance line the following effective planning should be clear in the mind of production supervisor:•
Knowledge of garment manufacturing.
•
Write down sequence of particular styles.
•
Grading of operation.
•
Requirement of labor.
•
Grading of labor according to operation grading.
•
Machines requirement according to style.
•
Sequence of machine on the shop floor, according to sequence operation of garment.
•
Trail production/pilot study available fabric.
•
Sectionalization of batch lines (if required).
•
Identification of bottled neck operation.
•
Work study starting initial production should be clear before.
•
The standard time gives time required for each operation.
•
Allocation of operation on the basis of efficiency and skilled level of operator.
•
Line balancing helps in continuous flow of bundle with minimum inventory.
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2.10.5 Labor Allotment: Labor allotment depends up on the number of operations, machines to be used, and material flow between the machines, line balancing & capabilities of the labors. Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified period of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows:Skill type
Grade
A
Highly skilled
B
Skilled
C
Semi-skilled
The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of: Highly Skilled
: 20%
Skilled
: 25%
Semi-skilled
: 50%
This is done irrespective to any style and Buyer and the complication of the style. A record is maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on timely bases. Because of maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency, working method and after a particular span of time they update the record. Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has a previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just been asked about his job which he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to know his skills and then grade is been allocated. APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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Every day the IED team there will be a meeting where in which they speak about the maintenance of efficiency of the batch in the production floor. They also conduct a production review meetings with the operation team in which they discuss about the line and the operation carried out in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right one.
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Start
Training, selection &
Work Measurement
Systems development
development Selection of Operators, Helpers, Supervisors, Checkers, QC, etc.
Time
Method
OPD
Line
Study
Study
Analysis
Balancing
Skill
Batch
Style
Batch
Matrix
Layout
Bulletin
Performance
End
Process Flowchart of I. E. Department
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2.10.6 Activities Performed In Each Section: a. AAMT Training section: -Operator selection procedures: The procedure mentioned for the selection of operators must be maintained. -Training procedures: Specific AAMT training procedures should be used. -Operator shifting procedure: All AAMT trainers have to take operator requisition from each batch on weekly basis. -Training progress status: This status should be updated every day and should be displayed in the AAMT department.
b. Cutting Department: -Operation Bulletin: OB is required to decide targets & manpower allocation. -Cutting check list: This is basic requirement in cutting section to know how to cut , where notches will come & where drill hole marking is required & to decide placement of ply numbering as per stitching OB requirement -Efficiency Report: Efficiency report has to be prepared using SAMs of new styles. -Incentive Statement: It should be made for each operator based on updated incentive schemes. -Table planning: Table planning is must for spreading & layout & by this we can utilize cutting table properly. -Lay slip: It is important to know the timing and other details of spreading and cutting. These details are mentioned in Lay slip. -Gum sheet: Gum sheets should be updated on hourly basis. -Hourly Target boards: Hourly production and target required should be mentioned on the board. -Lay inspection: Everyday PM, QAM & Cutting Incharge need to check this report.
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c. Sewing Department: -Operation Bulletin: OB is required to decide targets & manpower allocation. -Layout: The line layout should be made and documented for that particular style. -Performance monitoring system: Feedback on operator performance should be given to each operator, and then we can achieve better efficiency. -Flag System: Must use flags for operator performance.
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2.11 QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
2.11.1 Introduction: Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule apply even to garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as follows.
a. Pre-production Audit: In this stage auditing is mainly done for the stages which come before the production and that is the sampling stage. Here the auditing is done for all Samples and precisely for the size set Samples and also for the pilot production garments. The size set Samples are given importance to because they are mainly asked by the Buyer for checking the dimensions of the garment hence an extra stress is given to these Samples and the auditing for them is mainly done for the measurements of the garment and the measurements are checked at all the critical areas in the garment. For example: if it is a trouser then the measurements are checked at the areas like the length of the trouser, waist measurements, inseam measurements, the distance of the belt loops, etc., For the pilot run production also, the garments are checked for the dimensions and also for the placement of the accessories and trims. for example, the label attachment areas, etc.
b. Cutting Audit: In the cutting stage, which is the critical stage of the garment production the auditing is further divided into many other departments which are; 1. Spreading 2. Relay cut 3. Band knife 4. Shade APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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5. Hard pattern c. Sewing Audit: In sewing process the inspection is done in two areas, they are:i. In – line audit: Here the garments are checked during their different stages of manufacturing. Here the entire manufacturing process for a particular garment is split into the required number of parts may be two – three and then at the end of each stage the inspection is carried out by the person whose main job is auditing. For example if the garment that is being manufactured is a shirt then the entire manufacturing process is broken down into stages like, the finish of front, finish if back, sleeve attach finish and then the entire shirt. In this case the shirt is being checked at each stage and the auditing personnel will be provided by certain specifications and also the tolerance limits based on which he checks the garment. Here every single garment is checked. ii. End – line audit: Here the garments are checked after the entire process is over and the specifications are mainly based on the dimensions of the garment at the critical positions and then the placements of the labels.
d. Finishing Audit: In this area the auditing is mainly done by the operator himself as the job is limited, it is just button attachment that has to be done and the operator does it himself as and when he finishes his part of the job with the garment and the operator will be given or taught about the specifications for the garment to attach the button/ making the button holes. After the auditing is done in each and every stage the defects, findings and other related information will be recorded by the concerned departments in their own formats and they will be sent to the respective departments for rectification.
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2.11.2 Q.C Hourly: Rejected garments are separated in three main groups:•
Manufacturing faults
•
Fabric defects
•
Washing/printing/embroidery faults
The documentation is kept on hourly basis; the information is collected by Quality Controller and incorporates this in to daily quality report.
2.11.3 End Table Reports: •
Q.C‘s label number should be entered in the front side.
•
Sticker should be put up on the defects & entered in the form.
•
Defects are written on the waste garment and it is tagged to the hanger loop.
•
Batch supervisor should sign on the report.
•
If there is any pending piece.
•
QC label number should be entered in the Remark column.
2.11.4 QC should check the following: •
Random checking
•
Serial wise number checking
•
Pieces should be checked which is passed by checkers
•
It is the material used to give stiffness in collar, cuff, & other parts.
2.11.5 To maintain good quality, operators should do the following: •
Self-checking
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•
Self-trimming
•
Self-signing with numbering tag or sticker
2.11.6 Important points to check in the washed garment: •
The measurement after wash
•
The hand feel
•
The color or shade after wash
•
The puckering on seams if asked by the Buyer
2.11.7 Important points to check in a Packed garment: •
The presentation of work of the garment is important
•
Poly bag to be neat, not damaged
•
Garment to be balanced on both sides
•
Tags to be in the right place
•
Tags not to be damaged
•
No uncut threads & stains acceptable
•
Ensure proper de-dusting.
2.11.8 Accessory Inspection – AQL 2.5: When the accessories arrive, a Sample of each item is given to the merchandising department who will confirm if this item is correct according to what was ordered. Once the item has been verified Merchandiser will inform to proceed with appropriate testing. All the accessories are given an initial inspection of 10% random inspection this inspection is conducted following the guidelines stated in the Accessories checking table. To test shade variation and the color variation against the bulk it is very important that the accessories conform to the Buyers requirements, therefore measurements to specification, labelling accuracy, I code numbers, lettering or carefully examined.
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The maximum fault rates for the 10% inspection are 2%.if the number of faults exceeds this amount then another 10% inspection is performed. Both inspections are carefully recorded in the accessories inspection report. 2.11.9 Marker Inspection: It is responsibility of the pattern master to check the all markers issued to the cutting department prior to the cutting. This check will confirm that all components are correctly placed and all the components required are included in the marker. If any marker is found to have components missing or incorrectly placed in the marker is advised to cad room in charge through pattern master.
2.11.10 Cut Table Inspection: A table inspection is performed during the cutting process. Every cut block is compared to the production pattern boards. From every cut block the first, middle, and last piece is used to check conformity to shape, cut marking are given and positioned correctly. If any piece found to be unacceptable that cutting is informed and appropriate action is taken. Layers will be responsible for flagging obvious defects during the laying process; defective pieces will be replaced before going to production all results are recorded in the cutting table inspection report. The random sampling inspection a cut block is seen to have damages exceeding the stated amount; an additional few pieces are inspected. Cutting Quality Controller will assess the level of damages and decide if can be rectified the block will be corrected by either re cutting or replacing the panels.
2.11.11 Cut Panel Inspection: When the cut blocks are ready for production another inspection is performed by checking 5% of the consignment covering all the sizes and the colors, this inspection id performed compare the cut panels to the pattern board to identifying any discrepancy before going to production. If the rejection is more than 3%, 100% inspection is done.
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2.11.12 Sewing Quality Inspections: Inline inspection: The inline inspection is used to monitor the quality of the product through its various production stages. It is necessary for detecting faults and identify various problems during the production processes each time an inline inspection is performed an inline inspection report is completed. The frequency of inline inspection will depend upon the type of merchandise being produced. End line inspection: To establish an agreement on quality requirement on each garment the Quality Assurance Department will determine the allowable tolerances all the Quality Controllers will work according to that standards and guidelines. So there will be no differences in the level of quality. All the end line Quality Controller inspectors give a full inspection of every garment, examining closely color matching, conformity to shape, workmanship, and size specification. Any garments found with damages will be recorded in the end line inspection report .it is responsibility of the production manager to monitor the every end line inspection report and ensure correct action to be taken if needed.
Final Audit: It is the separate department; they will make the final inspection when 80% of the order is packed in the cartons. Audit will be on randomly selected garments and is divided in three sections as following:a. Intermediate audit b. Workmanship audit c. Measurement audit
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2.11.13 Different types of defects:Embellishment defect
Packing defects
a.
Unraveling
a.
Incorrect information poly bag
b.
Peeling & cracking
b.
Incorrect size poly bag
c.
Poor coverage
c.
Incorrect cartoon content
d.
Poor registration
d.
Over pack under pack cartoon
e.
Poor adhesion
e.
Miss/ incorrect u. o.k. sticker
f.
Improper backing removal
g.
Incorrect color
f. Foreign needles
h.
Incorrect size
i.
Incorrect placement
j.
Ink smear
k.
Plate marks
l.
Embellishment missing
m.
Embellishment not as specified
objects
pins
staples
g.
Open or damage poly bag
h.
Mixed sizes
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Stitching defects
Fabric defects
a.
SKIP/drop/broken stitch
a.
Hole
b.
Raw edges frayed seams
b.
Knot
c.
Open seam
c.
Stain
d.
Over run stitch
d.
Fold mark
e.
Incorrect tension
e.
Uneven peach
f.
Un even wavy stitching
f.
Foreign yarn
g.
Missing/insecure component
g.
Miss weave
h.
Needle hole
h.
Miss line
i.
Needle chew
i.
Slob
j.
Twisted roping/ uneven hem
j.
Dye streaks
k.
Conspicuous repair
l.
Construction not as specified
m.
Incorrect inconsistent stitch
n.
Shading with in garments
o.
In correct color combination
p.
High/low pocket shoulder
q.
Down stitch
r.
Loose stitch
s.
Yarn pulling
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2.12 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
2.12.1 Introduction: Apart from having quality system and the best practices, ‘Machine Maintenance’ also has a vital role in obtaining ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality often results in ill-maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed towards reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is necessary to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of Maintenance includes the following:•
Care of the fittings
•
Adjusting settings
•
Oil changing
•
Graph maintenance
•
Outward/inward reports
•
Needle weekly reports.
•
Machine configuration chart
•
Laser stock
•
History card
•
Needle log cards.
2.12.2 Servicing Areas: •
Generators
•
Compressors
•
Sewerage treatment plant
•
Pump house
•
Canteen equipment
•
Boilers / Iron tables
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•
Spreading Machines
•
Fusing Machines
•
Stain remover machines
•
Needle detector machines
•
Cutting machines
•
Band knife machines
•
Fabric inspection machines
•
Color box
•
Lifting tables
•
Light Fittings
•
Security Lights
•
Computer
2.12.3 Safety: •
Metal / Needle controlling procedures will be implemented.
•
Safety equipment for the workers will be identified.
•
Training will be provided to the entire staff on fire evacuation.
•
Factory team will be educated on fire drill & fire-fighting training.
•
Fire drill team will be identified among the staff.
•
Fire extinguisher placing points will be identified.
•
Fire evacuation paths will be identified & marked inside the factory.
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2.13 SHIPPING DEPARTMENT
2.13.1 Introduction: Imports and exports are the two important components of a foreign trade. Foreign trade is the exchange of goods and services between the two countries, across their international borders. ‘Imports' imply the physical movement of goods into a country from another country in a legal manner. It refers to the goods that are produced abroad by foreign producers and are used in the domestic economy to cater to the needs of the domestic consumers. Similarly, 'exports' imply the physical movement of goods out of a country in a legal manner. It refers to the goods that are produced domestically in a country and are used to cater to the needs of the consumers in foreign countries. Thus, the imports and exports have made the world a local market. The country which is purchasing the goods is known as the importing country and the country which is selling the goods is known as the exporting country. The traders involved in such transactions are importers and exporters respectively. This is an important department in the apparel industry since orders have to be continuously exported to the countries where the Buyer specifies. Also sometimes raw materials are imports. High quality fabric or trims as required by the Buyer have to be imported.
2.13.2 Responsibilities: Import/export managers ensure the smooth delivery of goods to their intended destinations to or from a country. Making arrangements for import and export of goods and overseeing the delivery of goods are part of the responsibilities of an import/ export manager. Import/export managers function as intermediaries for organizations and individuals importing from or exporting to various geographical locations. An import/export manager is charged with responsibility for ensuring that goods are safely and efficiently transported, making sure that cost-effective measures are taken into account. Depending on the type of goods and the customers’ needs, import /export managers will be required to organize the best means of transport, be it by air, road, rail or ship. Transportation and client needs will also vary with the size and type of organization with which the import/export manager is working.
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Import/export managers are responsible for planning transport routes and means. They are, therefore, required to research the best transportation means, routes and any special requirements in the handling and care of goods under transport. The manager ensures that goods are packaged appropriately, and he negotiates contracts for transportation and handling. It is the manager’s responsibility to obtain, prepare and check all necessary documents required to ensure that the documents meet the requirements of national customs authorities or any other regulatory body. The manager oversees the delivery of goods in accordance with customer specifications and ensures that deadlines are met. The import/export manager deals with all third parties involved in the operation as well as makes and collects payments on behalf of the customer.
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2.14 SUGGESTIONS
2.14.1 General: •
Providing up to date education, training to the Maintenance Department personnel on machinery, attachments and work-aids.
•
Providing education, training on international standard safety procedures to the entire factory work force to meet Buyers requirement.
2.14.2 Warehouse: •
To establish and maintain a procedure for receiving, handling, storage, issuing and preparation stock-taking.
•
Procedures of transferring all the necessary fabric, accessories and other required items to the sub stores.
•
Educating on maintaining of physical inventories and reconciliation.
•
Educating on the control of accessories from receiving to issuing with documentation.
•
Educating & training the warehouse staff on systems & procedures to follow from the time of goods arriving in port to the final shipment & thereafter.
2.14.3 Cutting: •
Assist & educate the cutting room personnel on systems & procedures to establish the department for continuing good cutting and eliminate the sewing defects, excess repairs and loss in production.
•
Ensure a system to maintain proper spreading and cutting of fabric to prevent miss-sizing, distortion and minimize the wastage and prevent from stain marks during cutting.
•
Training the personnel on collecting and recording of all the production and quality data.
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•
Training the personnel on maintaining of all routine and the preventive maintenance systems for equipment’s which are using in the cutting department.
•
Training the personnel on maintaining of good quality levels and systems throughout the cutting department.
2.14.4 Sewing: •
The stress and work load on each operator must be reduced and the number of operators must be increased at the bottle neck points in the batch.
•
Silicon oils must be used to avoid excessive thread breakages.
•
Need more well trained & efficient workers.
•
Each operator should be preferably able to handle atleast three process.
•
The sewing machine operator should be able to iron and vice versa.
•
The lock stitch sewing machine operator should be able to run over lock machine.
2.14.5 Finishing: •
Training & education can be provided to the finishing dept. team on buttoning, ironing, and packing to final shipment.
•
Training of how to iron a garment, training on how to fold & pack a garment.
•
Training on iron / steam & temperature controlling.
•
Training on how to use attachments on irons.
•
Training on correct methods of poly bagging.
•
Training on effective tagging.
•
Training on go packing.
•
Training on folding methods & flat packing methods.
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•
Training on box making.
•
Training on size sorting.
•
Training on ratio making.
•
Training on box packing & strapping.
2.15 CONCLUSION
The Indian garment industry in the present scenario is at the growing stage. A lot of opportunities lie in the changes that are going to take place in the future. Indian firms have the opportunity to capitalize on these changes and extend their products and services to global markets. The key in establishing a strong position in global markets require Management and managing human and intellectual process re-structuring. These are new tools in the box and are going to act as life line for any firms in the new economy. Therefore, companies need to carefully draft these strategies keeping in view with the challenges unfolding before them in these dynamically changing markets.
Following these points could help the Company grow bigger and better:•
Undertake the Total Management responsibilities of the organization.
•
Re-structuring & streamlining of the complete processes with its co & Supporting processes (from Merchandizing to the Final Shipment of the products).
•
Cost reduction & economy management.
•
Increasing the Factory Efficiency / Productivity Levels to the Industry Standards.
•
Providing support, encouragement to all the personnel concern and encourage teamwork.
•
Ensuring a high quality product is delivered to the customer.
•
Creating a new culture by introducing the Japanese ‘5’s’, ‘Quality Circle’, ‘Lean’& ‘Kaizen’ concepts to motivate the entire workforce on discipline, teamwork & unity to achieve the industry’s highest standards of quality & productivity.
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It is with cautious optimism we believe that Indian firms have the capabilities to formulate and implement strategies to enable them to be successful multinationals of the future. Following the right steps would lead them to success in India and abroad.
PROJECT REPORT ON
Analyzing of Different Sewing Floor Layouts
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Abstract Facility layout and design is an important component of a business's overall operations, both in terms of maximizing the effectiveness of production processes and meeting employee needs and/or desires. Facility layout can be defined as the physical arrangement of everything needed for the product or service, including machines, personnel, raw materials, and finished goods. The criteria for a good layout necessarily relate to people, materials (raw, finished, and in process), machines, and their interactions. This project aims at reducing the man and material movement in the sewing floor lines by rearrangement of the floor. Apart from the material and man movement reduction, it also improvises the streamlined flow of the pieces within the line and the effective utilization of the available space. The major aspects of the project are: streamlining the operations, automatic material movement and efficient use of the layout. A successful implementation of the proposed layout changes will help the project achieve its cent percent objective, thereby facilitating the reduction in man and material movement and automatic movement of the pieces.
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Chapter- 3 INTRODUCTION
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3.1 Introduction: One of the oldest activities of the industrial engineer is designing an effective plant layout. It is the activity that deals with the designing of an arrangement of the physical elements of the activity. A layout design is an arrangement of the physical facilities (equipment, land, buildings, utilities etc.) to optimize the interrelationship among operating personnel, material flow, and the method required in achieving the organizational objectives efficiently, economically and safely. The overall objective of layout design is to get the inputs (materials, supplies, etc.) into, through and out of each facility in the shortest possible time. In industrial terms, the shorter the amount of time a piece of material spends in the plant, the less opportunity it has to collect labour and overhead charges. The work of a facility design usually starts with an analysis of the product to be made, or the services to be performed, and a consideration of the overall flow of the material or activity. It progresses, step by step, through the detailed planning of the arrangement of equipments for each individual work area. Then the interrelationship between work areas is planned; related areas are coordinated into units, sections, departments, which when are woven into a final layout. The flow of material usually represents the backbone of a productive facility, and should be very carefully planned and not allowed to grow or develop into an unwieldy octopus of confused traffic pattern.
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Effective arrangement of facilities around the material flow pattern results in efficient operation of the various related processes, resulting in minimum production cost and maximum profit. Thus, material flow pattern then becomes the basis for the entire plant design as well as the success of the organisation. 3.2 Project Brief: The project is to streamline and rearrange the layout of the Sewing Floor of the shirt manufacturing facility of Texport Industries Pvt. Ltd. The rearrangement or change in the layout is needed to increase in Production and Efficiency and reduce WIP and Throughput time, Man movement and Material movement. Also, the layout had to be planned so that the pieces should move automatically from one workstation to another without the help of any external person. 3.3 Locale: Texport Industries Pvt. Ltd., Unit 10 Block No. 3, 106/1 Kenchanahalli, Mysore Road Bangalore- 560059 Karnataka 3.4 Statement of Study: To streamline and rearrange the sewing floor layout to increase in Production and Efficiency and to reduce WIP, Throughput time, Man movement and Material movement. 3.5 Objectives: To rearrange the layout: •
To increase the Efficiency of the Sewing Floor.
•
To increase the Productivity of the Sewing Floor.
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•
To reduce the WIP.
•
To reduce the Throughput Time.
•
To reduce the overall man movement.
•
To reduce the overall material movement.
•
To ensure the smooth flow of pieces from one workstation to other.
•
To effectively utilize the available space.
•
To track the movement of the WIP.
3.6 Significance of the Project: The continuous cry of a businessman is to increase productivity and search for ways of reducing cost to offset the ever increasing prices they have to pay for labour and material. One of the prime sources of increasing productivity and cost improvement opportunity is by redesigning the facility, material flow and reducing the material handling time. In spite of the considerable effort that gone into designing the layout, there is no way to guarantee that it is the best or includes all the desirable objectives, criteria and ideas. With the passage of time, some undesirable changes do occur in the original layout plan because of some on the spot product requirement or some other reasons creating deviation from the original layout plans. So the existing and working
layout
should also be evaluated to discover improvement
opportunities. Audit and evaluation of layout results in increased productivity, smooth material flow, incorporating improvements with changing market and newer technology available, interacting with fresh and unique ideas different from traditional ones. The final result is an updated plant layout filling the gap developed between the present objective and objective specified at the beginning of the layout process and ready to compete with the changing needs of the present scenario.
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Chapter- 4 REVIEW OF LITERATURE
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4.1 Plant layout: Plant layout refers to the arrangement of physical facilities such as machines, equipment, tools, furniture etc. in such a manner so as to have quickest flow of material at the lowest cost and with the least amount of handling in processing the product from the receipt of raw material to the delivery of the final product. The efficiency of production depends on how well the various machines; production facilities and employee’s amenities are located in a plant. Only the properly laid out plant can ensure the smooth and rapid movement of material, from the raw material stage to the end product stage. Plant layout encompasses new layout as well as improvement in the existing layout. It can also be defined as the technique of locating machines, processes and plant services within the factory so as to achieve the right quantity and quality of output at the lowest possible cost of manufacturing. It involves a judicious arrangement of production facilities so that workflow is direct. 4.1.1 Importance of Plant Layout: Plant layout is an important decision as it represents long-term commitment. An ideal plant layout should provide the optimum relationship among output, floor area and manufacturing process. It facilitates the production process, minimizes material handling, time and cost, and allows flexibility of operations, easy production flow, makes economic use of the building, promotes effective APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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utilization of manpower, and provides for employee’s convenience, safety, comfort at work, maximum exposure to natural light and ventilation. It is also important because it affects the flow of material and processes, labour efficiency, supervision and control, use of space and expansion possibilities etc.
4.1.2 Types of Layout: Plant layout facilitates the arrangement of machines, equipment and other physical facilities in a planned manner within the factory premises. It differs from plant to plant, from location to location and from industry to industry. But the basic principles governing plant layout are more or less same. 4.1.3 Principles of Plant Layout: The principles of plant layout can be stated as:1. Integration of all factors - The plant should integrate all the essential resources of men, machines and materials in order to give an optimum level of
production.
2. Minimum Movement - The less the movement of men, machines and materials, the less will be the cost of production. Thus, minimum movement of these resources will provide cost efficiency. 3. Unidirectional flow - All materials should progressively move towards the same direction i.e. towards the stage of completion. Any back-tracking should be avoided here. 4. Efficient space handling - The space used up during the plant work also costs money as more the space required, more will be the floor rent. The materials should be organized in stacks in a proper and recognizable order to maintain space efficiency. 5. Inherent safety - The environment of the plant should be safe for the workers as well as the machines. There should be fire extinguishers and fire APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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exits placed strategically. There should be minimum contact of the labour to toxic chemicals and environment. 6. Maximum observation capacity - The layout of the plant should such that all of its resources and workforce can be observed and evaluated at all points in time. This helps in better supervision of work and helps in increasing both effectiveness and safety. 7. Maximum accessibility - The layout of the plant should ensure that all essential resources are accessible to the labour and machines without any delay. The aisles should be free from obstacles. The materials should be placed as close, to the machines concerned, as possible. 8. Minimum Handling - The ineffective handling of materials leads to a rise in cost. Materials should be handled in stacks and transferred in one go. Handling of a material twice in the same direction must be avoided. 9. Maximum protection - The layout should ensure the protection of the materials and machines while they are in the working or the storage stage. The security system should be efficient without making too many doors or barriers. 10. Maximum flexibility - The plant layout should not be rigid and permanent. If the need arises, the plant layout should be able to change itself without being expensive. 4.1.4 Layout Design: Layout Design is one of the most critical tasks of the production management. It affects the factory efficiency, quality and costs. If the layout is wrong, it can lead to confused flow patterns, inventories, long process times, inflexible operations and high cost. Many practical reasons make the changes to layout difficult, one of them is the physical size of equipment and machines that need to be moved. Managers are reluctant to make changes in the factory layout because it can be expensive to carry out and disruptive to production. But at the same time there is pressure to design an effective layout that is right for the factory.
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The task of designing the layout of factory involves deciding where to locate resources such as equipment, machines, stores and operators. It also determines the way that materials and parts flow through the factory. Relatively small changes in the position of a machine in the factory can affect the flow of materials. This in turn can affect costs and efficiency of manufacturing.
4.1.5 Objectives of Plant Layout: •
Proper and efficient utilization of available floor space
•
To ensure that work proceeds from one point to another point without any delay
•
Provide enough production capacity
•
Reduce material handling costs
•
Reduce hazards to personnel
•
Utilise labour efficiently
•
Increase employee morale
•
Reduce accidents
•
Provide for volume and product flexibility
•
Provide ease of supervision and control
•
Provide for employee safety and health
•
Allow ease of maintenance
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•
Allow high machine or equipment utilization
•
Improve productivity
4.1.6 Advantages of a good layout in terms of:Working Environment •
Lesser number of operations & material handling
•
Reduction in length of hauls & motions between operations
•
More labour productivity
•
More safety & security to workers from accidents
•
Better working conditions resulting improved efficiency
Manufacturing Costs •
Maintenance and replacement costs are reduced
•
Loss due to waste and spoilage minimized
•
Improved quality of product with reduction in handling
Production Control and Supervision •
Provides more space for production operations
•
Control & supervision operation are provided at appropriate points
•
Better and convenient storage facilities
•
Efficient arrangement for receipt, transportation & delivery of raw material and finished goods
•
Result in less inspection activity
•
Cost & efforts in supervision of production process minimized
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4.1.7 Features of a good layout: •
Ease of working, grater safety and reduced health hazards for workers
•
Reduced handling of materials/planned material flow pattern
•
Straight line flow
•
Minimum back tracking
•
Auxiliary flow lines
•
Straight aisles
•
Processing combined with material handling
•
Reduced damage & spoilage of materials
•
Reduced congestion of materials, machinery & men
•
Flexibility with regard to changing production conditions
•
Planned for orderly expansion
•
Minimum goods & materials in process
•
Maximum use of all plant levels
•
Building constructed around plant layout
•
Proper location of production & employee service facilities
•
Planned control of noise, dirt, fumes, dust and humidity
•
Partitions don’t impede material flow
•
Planned scrap removal
•
Receiving & shipping in logical locations
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4.1.8 Types of Manufacturing Unit Layouts: In case of manufacturing unit, plant layout may be of four types: (a) Product or line layout (b) Process or functional layout (c) Fixed position or location layout (d) Combined or group layout 4.1.8.1 Product or Line layout: Under this, machines and equipments are arranged in one line depending upon the sequence of operations required for the product. The materials move from one workstation to another sequentially without any backtracking or deviation. Under this, machines are grouped in one sequence. Therefore materials are fed into the first machine and finished goods travel automatically from machine to machine, the output of one machine becoming input of the next, e.g. in a paper mill, bamboos are fed into the machine at one end and paper comes out at the other end. The raw material moves very fast from one workstation to other stations with a minimum work in progress storage and material handling. The grouping of machines should be done keeping in mind the following general principles:a) All the machine tools or other items of equipments must be placed at the point demanded by the sequence of operations. b) There should no points where one line crossed another line. c) Materials may be fed where they are required for assembly but not necessarily at one point. d) All the operations including assembly, testing packing must be included in the line.
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Advantages: Product layout provides the following benefits:a. Low cost of material handling, due to straight and short route and absence of backtracking b. Smooth and uninterrupted operations c. Continuous flow of work d. Lesser investment in inventory and work in progress e. Optimum use of floor space f. Shorter processing time or quicker output g. Less congestion of work in the process h. Simple and effective inspection of work and simplified production control i. Lower cost of manufacturing per unit Disadvantages: Product layout suffers from following drawbacks:a. High initial capital investment in special purpose machine b. Heavy overhead charges c. Breakdown of one machine will hamper the whole production process d. Lesser flexibility as specially laid out for particular product Suitability: Product layout is useful under following conditions:a) Mass production of standardized products b) Simple and repetitive manufacturing process c) Operation time for different process is more or less equal d) Reasonably stable demand for the product e) Continuous supply of materials
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Therefore, the manufacturing units involving continuous manufacturing process, producing few standardized products continuously on the firm’s own specifications and in anticipation of sales would prefer product layout e.g. chemicals, sugar, paper, rubber, refineries, cement, automobiles, food processing and electronics etc. 4.1.8.2 Process layout: In this type of layout machines of a similar type are arranged together at one place.
E.g. Machines performing drilling operations are arranged in the
drilling department, machines performing casting operations be grouped in the casting department. Therefore the machines are installed in the plants, which follow the process layout. Hence, such layouts typically have drilling department, milling department, welding department, heating department and painting department etc. The process or functional layout is followed from historical period. It evolved from the handicraft method of production. The work has to be allocated to each department in such a way that no machines are chosen to do as many different job as possible i.e. the emphasis is on general purpose machine. The work, which has to be done, is allocated to the machines according to loading schedules with the object of ensuring that each machine is fully loaded.
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The grouping of machines according to the process has to be done keeping in mind the following principles:a) The distance between departments should be as short as possible for avoiding long distance movement of materials b) The departments should be in sequence of operations c) The arrangement should be convenient for inspection and supervision Advantages: Process layout provides the following benefits:a) Lower initial capital investment in machines and equipments. There is high degree of machine utilization, as a machine is not blocked for a single product b) The overhead costs are relatively low c) Change in output design and volume can be more easily adapted to the output of variety of products d) Breakdown of one machine does not result in complete work stoppage e) Supervision can be more effective and specialized f) There is a greater flexibility of scope for expansion Disadvantages: Product layout suffers from following drawbacks:a. Material handling costs are high due to backtracking b. More skilled labour is required resulting in higher cost c. Time gap or lag in production is higher d. Work in progress inventory is high needing greater storage space e. More frequent inspection is needed which results in costly supervision Suitability: Process layout is adopted when:APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | Process layout showing movement of two products APURV & PRANAV
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a. Products are not standardized b. Quantity produced is small c. There are frequent changes in design and style of product d. Job shop type of work is done e. Machines are very expensive Thus, process layout or functional layout is suitable for job order production involving non-repetitive processes and customer specifications and nonstandardized products, e.g. tailoring, light and heavy engineering products, made to order furniture industries, jewellery. 4.1.8.3 Fixed Position or Location Layout: In this type of layout, the major product being produced is fixed at one location. Equipment labour and components are moved to that location. All facilities are brought and arranged around one work center. This type of layout is not relevant for small scale entrepreneur.
Advantages: Fixed position layout provides the following benefits:a) It saves time and cost involved on the movement of work from one workstation to another. b) The layout is flexible as change in job design and operation sequence can be easily incorporated. c) It is more economical when several orders in different stages of progress are being executed simultaneously. APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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d) Adjustments can be made to meet shortage of materials or absence of workers by changing the sequence of operations.
Disadvantages: Fixed position layout has the following drawbacks:a. Production period being very long, capital investment is very heavy b. Very large space is required for storage of material and equipment near the product. c. As several operations are often carried out simultaneously, there is possibility of confusion and conflicts among different workgroups. Suitability: The fixed position layout is followed in following conditions:a. Manufacture of bulky and heavy products such as locomotives, ships, boilers, generators, wagon building, aircraft manufacturing, etc. b. Construction of building, flyovers, dams. c. Hospital, the medicines, doctors and nurses are taken to the patient (product). 4.1.8.4 Combined layout: Certain manufacturing units may require all three processes namely intermittent process (job shops), the continuous process (mass production shops) and the representative process combined process [i.e. miscellaneous shops]. In most of industries, only a product layout or process layout or fixed location layout does not exist. Thus, in manufacturing concerns where several products are produced in repeated numbers with no likelihood of continuous production, combined layout is followed. Generally, a combination of the product and process layout or other combination are found, in practice, e.g. for industries involving the fabrication of parts and assembly, fabrication tends to employ the process layout, while the assembly areas often employ the product layout.
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In soap, manufacturing plant, the machinery manufacturing soap is arranged on the product line principle, but ancillary services such as heating, the manufacturing of glycerine, the power house, the water treatment plant etc. are arranged on a functional basis. 4.1.9 Safety Factors for Plant Layout: Plant layout is often a compromise between a number of factors such as:•
The need to keep distances for transfer of materials between plant/storage units to a minimum to reduce costs and risks;
•
The geographical limitations of the site;
•
Interaction with existing or planned facilities on site such as existing roadways, drainage and utilities routings;
•
Interaction with other plants on site;
•
The need for plant operability and maintainability;
•
The need to locate hazardous materials facilities as far as possible from site boundaries and people living in the local neighbourhood;
•
The need to prevent confinement where release of flammable substances may occur;
•
The need to provide access for emergency services;
•
The need to provide emergency escape routes for on-site personnel;
•
The need to provide acceptable working conditions for operators.
The most important factors of plant layout as far as safety aspects are concerned are those to:•
Prevent, limit and/or mitigate escalation of adjacent events;
•
Ensure safety within on-site occupied buildings;
•
Control access of unauthorized personnel;
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Facilitate access for emergency services.
Chapter- 5 METHODOLOGY
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5.1 Steps: The project has been done in the following steps:1. Study of the shirt manufacturing process. 2. Mapping the current layout. 3. Study of the flow of material. 4. Mapping the man and material movement. 5. Analyzing the problems/ difficulties in the current layout. 6. Taking the suggestions of the IE Department and the Line Supervisors. 7. Making new layout proposals. 8. Taking references from the IED and supervisors on the proposals. 9. Comparing the two layouts in terms of various parameters. 10. Evaluating the layouts by taking the suggestions from the Production Manager, IE, Maintenance teams and the Operators. 11. Doing a feasibility study from the old and proposed layouts. 12. Outcome of the Project. 5.2 Data Collection Method: 5.2.1 Primary Data: •
The primary data collection is done by making the layouts in Auto-CAD by taking exact measurements of the sewing lines.
•
Collecting reports from the IE Department.
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5.2.2 Secondary Data: The secondary data collection is done by referring various books from the library and through websites.
Chapter - 6 Proposal of Layout- I Process Layout (Modular System)
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6.1 Layout Details: Product: FULL SLEEVE SHIRT Style: W CARRIE POLKA DOT Production: 4375 Efficiency: 70% Absenteeism: 10% No. of Lines: 7 Total No. of Machines: 276 Total No. of Workplace (Manpower): 333 Total Distance of Material movement: 1509 Feet 6.2 Collar Preparation: 6.2.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Machine
Deskilling
0.650 0.350 0.350 0.450 0.450 0.850
Type SNLS SNEC Iron Table SNLS SNLS SNEC
Devices Profile
Template
0.550
Iron table
Template
0.400
SNEC
Template
Operation
SAM
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Run-stitch Collar Trim & turn collar Iron collar Topstitch collar Hem collar band Attach collar band to collar Turn & iron collar band
8
corner Trim & notch collar
CR 1/4"
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6.2.2 Collar Section Details: Total Manpower
:
Total no. of machines
48 :
26
6.2.3 Material Movement: Distance
Movement
(in Feet) 90
1
Rack to Run-stitch Collar
2
Run-stitch Collar to Trim & turn collar
0
3
Trim & turn collar to Iron collar
12
4
Iron collar to Topstitch collar
10
5
Topstitch collar to Hem collar band
8
6
Hem collar band to Attach collar band to collar
24
7
Attach collar band to collar to Turn & iron collar band
8
corner Turn & iron collar band corner to Trim & notch collar
9
Trim & notch collar to Matching table
19 12 48
Total
223
6.3 Back Preparation: 6.3.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation
SAM
Machine
Deskilli
Type
ng Devices
1
Mark & attach label to inner yoke
2 3 4 5 6
patch Iron inner yoke patch Attach inner yoke patch to back Mark for darts Sew darts on back Attach back to yoke
0.450 0.400 0.450 0.450 0.900 0.650
SNLS Iron Table SNLS Helper Table SNLS SNLS
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MF 213 113
6.3.2 Back Section Details: Total Manpower
:
38
Total no. of machines
:
32
6.3.3 Material Movement: Distance
Movement 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Rack to Mark & attach label to inner yoke patch Mark & attach label to inner yoke patch Iron inner yoke patch to Attach inner yoke patch to back Attach inner yoke patch to back to Mark for darts Mark for darts to Sew darts on back Sew darts on back to Attach back to yoke Attach back to yoke to Matching Table Total
(in Feet) 40 0 12 14 64 8 70 208
6.4 Front Preparation: 6.4.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation
SAM
Machine
Deskilling Devices
Type 1
Hem
button
hole
2 3
placket Hem button placket Mark & sew bust darts
0.650 0.450 0.650
DNLS SNLS SNLS
MF 206, a = 1 1/8" MF 206, a = 1 "
6.4.2 Front Section Details: Total Manpower
:
Total no. of machines
16 :
16
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6.4.3 Material Movement: Movement
Distance (in Feet) 28
1
Rack to Hem button hole placket
2
Hem button hole placket to Hem button placket
12
3
Hem button placket to Mark & sew bust darts
2
4
Mark & sew bust darts to Matching table Total
88 130
6.5 Cuff Preparation: 6.5.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation 1 2 3 4
Hem cuff Run stitch cuff Trim and turn cuff Iron cuff
SAM
Machine
0.500 1.000 0.550 0.450
Type SNLS SNLS SNEC Iron table
Deskilling Devices CR 5/16" Profile
6.5.2 Cuff Section Details: Total Manpower
:
33
Total no. of machines
:
20
6.5.3 Material Movement: Movement
Distance (in Feet) 95
1
Rack to Hem cuff
2
Hem cuff to Run stitch cuff
63
3
Run stitch cuff to Trim and turn cuff
8
4
Trim and turn cuff to Iron cuff
23
5
Iron cuff to Matching Table Total
36 225
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6.6 Sleeve Preparation: 6.6.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation 1
Attach
&
SAM finish
lower
sleeve
Deskilling
Type
Devices MF 219, a=1/2"
0.60
placket
0 0.35
SNLS
Tack lower sleeve placket
0 0.90
SNLS
Iron upper sleeve placket Attach & finish upper sleeve
0 0.90
Iron table
2 3 4
Machine
placket
0
SNLS
6.6.2 Sleeve Section Details: Total Manpower
:
Total no. of machines
37 :
25
6.6.3 Material Movement: Movement 1 2
Rack to Attach & finish lower sleeve placket Attach & finish lower sleeve placket to Tack lower sleeve placket
3 4
Tack lower sleeve placket to Iron upper sleeve placket Iron upper sleeve placket to Attach & finish upper sleeve placket
5
Attach & finish upper sleeve placket to Matching Table Total
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Distance (in Feet) 82 62 16 21 88 269
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6.7 Assembly Section: 6.7.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation 1
Match
fronts
SAM &
back,
Machine
Deskilling
Type
Devices
collar,
sleeve, cuff Join shoulders Mark & attach tape at neck Attach collar Close collar Attach sleeve Overlock sleeve Top-stitch arm hole Close sides
0.450 0.650 0.600 0.650 0.900 0.900 0.700 0.850 0.900
Helper Table SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS SNLS 3TOL SNLS SNLS
0 1
Overlock sides Prepare & tack w/care label to
0.750
3TOL
1 1
sides
0.450
SNLS
2 1
Hem bottom
0.900
SNLS
3 1
Iron side bottom patch
0.800
Iron table
4 1
Mark & topstitch on side patch
0.800
SNLS
5 1
Make sleeve pleat (2 nos.)
0.450
SNLS
6 1
Attach & finish cuff
0.900
SNLS
7
Top-stitch cuff
0.800
SNLS
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
MF 211
MF
503,
5/16"
F-224(
cuff
setter)
6.7.2 Assembly Section Details: Total Manpower:
138
Total no. of machines:
126
a=
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6.7.3 Material Movement: Movement
Distance (in
1
Matching table to Assembly Line 1
Feet) 35
2
Matching table to Assembly Line 2
40
3
Matching table to Assembly Line 3
63
4
Matching table to Assembly Line 4
86
5
Matching table to Assembly Line 5
109
6
Matching table to Assembly Line 6
121
Total
454
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Layout (Process Layout) APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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Material Flow (Process Layout) APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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Chapter- 7 Proposal of Layout-II Product Layout (Progressive Bundle System)
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7.1 Layout Details: Product: FULL SLEEVE SHIRT Style: W CARRIE POLKA DOT Production: 3750 Efficiency: 70% Absenteeism: 10% No. of Lines: 6 Total No. of Machines: 252 Total No. of Workplace (Manpower): 306 Total Distance of Material movement: 1281 7.2 Line Section: 7.2.1 Operation Breakdown and Process Flow: Operation
SAM
Machine
Deskilling
Run-stitch Collar Trim & turn collar Iron collar Topstitch collar Hem collar band Attach collar band to collar Turn & iron collar band
0.650 0.350 0.350 0.450 0.450 0.850
Type SNLS SNEC Iron Table SNLS SNLS SNEC
Devices Profile
corner Trim & notch collar Hem cuff
0.550 0.400 0.500
Iron table SNEC SNLS
Template Template CR 5/16"
0 1
Run stitch cuff
1.000
SNLS
Profile
1 1
Trim and turn cuff
0.550
SNEC
2 1
Iron cuff Mark & attach label to inner
0.450
Iron table
3 1
yoke patch
0.450
SNLS
4 1
Iron inner yoke patch Attach inner yoke patch to
0.400
Iron Table
5
back
0.450
SNLS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
CR 1/4" Template
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1
Helper
6 1
Mark for darts
0.450
Table
7 1
Sew darts on back
0.900
SNLS
8 1
Attach back to yoke
0.650
SNLS
MF 213 MF 206, a = 1
9 2
Hem button hole placket
0.650
DNLS
1/8"
0 2
Hem button placket
0.450
SNLS
MF 206, a = 1 "
1 2
Mark & sew bust darts Attach & finish lower sleeve
0.650
SNLS
2 2
placket
0.600
SNLS
3 2
Tack lower sleeve placket
0.350
SNLS
4 2
Iron upper sleeve placket Attach & finish upper sleeve
0.900
Iron table
5 2
placket Match fronts & back, collar,
0.900
SNLS Helper
6 2
sleeve, cuff
0.450
Table
7 2
Join shoulders
0.650
SNLS
8 2
Mark & attach tape at neck
0.600
SNLS
9 3
Attach collar
0.650
SNLS
0 3
Close collar
0.900
SNLS
1 3
Attach sleeve
0.900
SNLS
2 3
Overlock sleeve
0.700
3TOL
3 3
Top-stitch arm hole
0.850
SNLS
4 3
Close sides Overlock sides
0.900 0.750
SNLS 3TOL
MF 219, a=1/2"
MF 211
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5 3
Prepare & tack w/care label
6 3
to sides
0.450
SNLS
7 3
Hem bottom
0.900
SNLS
8 3
Iron side bottom patch Mark & topstitch on side
0.800
Iron table
9 4
patch
0.800
SNLS
0 4
Make sleeve pleat (2 nos.)
0.450
SNLS
1 4
Attach & finish cuff
0.900
SNLS
2 Top-stitch cuff 7.2.2 Single Line Details:
0.800
SNLS
MF 503, a= 5/16"
F-224 ( cuff setter
Total Manpower
:
)
306
Total no. of machines
:
252
7.2.3 Material Movement: Movement
Distance (in Feet)
1
Rack to Assembly Line 1
105
2
Rack to Assembly Line 2
83
3
Rack to Assembly Line 3
74
4
Rack to Assembly Line 4
93
5
Rack to Assembly Line 5
115
6
Rack to Assembly Line 6
188
7
Assembly Line Feeding End to Collar ( x 6
8
Lines ) Collar to Cuff ( x 6 Lines )
147
9
Cuff to Back ( x 6 Lines )
87
10
Back to Front ( x 6 Lines )
380
11
Front to Sleeve ( x 6 Lines )
7
12
Sleeve to Assembly ( x 6 Lines )
2
Total
0
1281
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Layout (Product Layout)
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Material Flow (Product Layout)
Chapter– 8 Analysis of the Proposed Layouts
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8.1 Comparison between Layouts:
Sl. No . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Progressive Bundling Particulars Material Movement Manpower No. of M/c Production Space Availability Line Balancing Order Tracking WIP Quality Inspection Visibility Maintenance Control &
Modular System 1509 ft. 333 276 4375 Less Easy Difficult Huge Difficult Random Difficult
System 1281 ft. 306 252 3750 More Difficult Easy Less Easy Streamlined Easy
Supervision Material Flow Throughput time Report Generation Safety Machine Utilisation Effect of
Difficult Slow & Back Tracking Huge Difficult Lesser Excellent
Easy Straight line Less Easy Better Efficient
Can be balanced
Difficult to balance
18 Absenteeism
8.2 Pros and Cons of Modular System (Layout 1): 8.2.1 Pros: APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT ON TEXPORT INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. | APURV & PRANAV
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•
Lesser Machine requirement
•
Easy to balance the line in case of Absenteeism
•
Line balancing is easy
•
Machine utilization is excellent
•
Lesser effect of absenteeism
8.2.2 Cons: •
Huge WIP
•
Difficulty in tracking the status of Production
•
Inline Quality Inspection
•
Material movement is more
•
Greater requirement of Manpower
•
More number of Machine requirement
•
Order tracking is difficult
•
Control & supervision is difficult
8.3 Pros and Cons of Progressive Bundling System (Layout 2): 8.3.1 Pros: •
Lesser Manpower requirement
•
Lesser Material movement
•
Order tracking is easy
•
WIP is lesser
•
Throughput time is lesser
•
Quality inspection is easy
•
Visibility is streamlined
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•
Control & supervision is easy
8.3.2 Cons: •
Lesser production
•
Line balancing is difficult in case of Absenteeism
Chapter – 9 Outcome of the Project
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Depending upon the need of the Organisation and facilities available, we would suggest the Management to implement Modular System. The suggestion is purely based on the findings of our Project and discussion with the IED on the feasibility of implementing the Layout. As in our analysis we found that with the Process system or Modular layout, the sewing floor can be utilized more and production can be increased as compared to the Product layout. In the production unit where we did our analysis, due several reasons the Product System or Single Line system is not as productive as compared to Process layout. The reasons are as follows:•
Absenteeism
•
Variation in products
•
High iteration rate
•
Very less multiple skilled operators
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BIBLIOGRAPHY •
www.texportgarments.com
•
Industrial Engineering and Management
•
Dr. O. P. Khanna, Dhanpat Rai Publications, New Delhi
•
Management -James A. F. Stoner, R. Edward Freeman(6th edition)
•
Management of Textile Industry - Dr. Dudeja Textile Trade Press, 1981
•
Magazines: -The Indian textile journal. -Clothes line. -Global crossing A Turnaround. -Apparel Marketing and Merchandising, Ruth. A. Clarke -Motion and time study, Gerald Dodler -Marketing research, Peter M. Chisnall -Materials handling in industry, British Electrical Development Association
•
Text book, Management Development Course, Juki corp.
•
Federation of India chamber of commerce & Industry, FICCI forum.
•
Productions and Operations Management (5th edition)
•
Apple, J. M. (1977). The Facilities Design Function. In J. M. Apple, Plant Layout and Material Handling (pp. 1-24). John Wiley & Sons.
•
Apple, J. M. (n.d.). Plant Layout and Material Handling.
•
Health and Safety Executive. (n.d.). Plant Layout. Retrieved March 16, 2013, from Health and Safety Executive: http://www.hse.gov.uk/comah/sragtech/techmeasplantlay.htm
•
Kumar, A. (n.d.). Retrieved March 16, 2013, from www.du.ac.in: http://www.du.ac.in/fileadmin/DU/Academics/course_material/EP_07.pdf
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quality
134
•
Majumdar, S. (2009, September 20). The Principles of a Plant Layout. Retrieved March 16, 2013, from Indiastudychannel.com: http://www.indiastudychannel.com/resources/87244-The-Principles-PlantLayout.aspx
•
Plant Layout. (n.d.). Retrieved March 16, 2013, from Web-Su-kat: http://www.websukat.com/PAOM-plant-layout.htm
•
Plant Layout, Types of Plant Layouts. (n.d.). Retrieved March 16, 2013, from http://www.websukat.com: http://www.websukat.com/PAOM-plant-layout.htm
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