Inside Crochet - Issue 84, 2016

September 28, 2017 | Author: KomikSyifa | Category: Crochet, Patchwork, Knitting, Textiles, Yarn
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Inside Crochet Magazine - Issue 84, 2016...

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FREE GIFT! 3 POM-POM MAKERS INSPIRING PROJECTS for Creative Crocheters

insidecrochet.co.uk

EXPERT TIPS & TRICKS

How to crochet Pick up a hook today!

20 BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS

EASY DC STITCHES

BIG SOFTY! Cute and cuddly polar bear toy

GREAT VALUE YARN

DECK THE HALLS Stunning Christmas tree project

SEASON'S GREETINGS Get set for Christmas with our cosy gifts, festive fashion and stylish decorations

USE YOUR FREE GIFT!

TIDDLY-OM-POM-POM Super simple striped wreath

MAKE IN A WEEKEND

COLOURFUL COWL Perfect last-minute present

angel delight

Adorable children’s tunic

TAPESTRY CROCHET

LET IT SNOW Trendy tote in seasonal shades

CABLED DRESS ❤ SANTA HAT ❤ CLASSIC CARDIGAN 01_IC84[Cover]SPRD.indd 1

£5.99 ISSUE 84 84

9 772040 105014

10/11/2016 11:00

Purplelinda Crafts

BAUBLE C OA

Love to Crochet

S ER ST

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LY GARLAN OL

DO RU

LP H O RA TIONS

SKIRT EE

U BA

BL E TE COSY A

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C TREE DE

Make this the best Crochet Christmas ever with the King Cole Christmas Crochet Book 2

Visit us online for the largest selections of Crochet Supplies in the UK

www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk

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PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH Subscription enquiries t. +44 (0)1202 586848 [email protected]

Meet the team Editor Rhian Drinkwater [email protected] Group Managing Editor Sarah Moran [email protected] Styling & Photoshoot Editor Claire Montgomerie [email protected] Technical Editors Rachel Atkinson, Jane Czaja, Rachel Vowles Sub Editor Vicky Guerrero Online Marketing Executive Adrian Lito [email protected] Contributors Rachel Atkinson, Jacinta Bowie, Vicky Guerrero, Carol Holding, Madeleine Kimberley, Melissa Leapman, Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot, Ruth Maddock, NT Maglia, Claire Montgomerie, Irina Palczynski, Amanda Perkins, Red Sparrow Crochet, Deborah Stuart, Tracey Todhunter, Liz Ward, Zooeyzo Models Rocco Whitting, Erian O’Neill, Freya McIvor, Yasmin Ryan Photography Leanne Jade Photography, Jason Masters, Kirsten Mavric, Roddy Paine Photographic Studio, Lucy Williams Hair and make-up Nicki Henbrey Design Stephanie Peat Ad Production Leila Schmitz Main cover image Kirsten Mavric Small cover images Kirsten Mavric

Publishing Publisher Tim Harris

Group Advertising Manager Jennie Ayres [email protected] Advertising Manager Sophie Bunch [email protected] t. +44 (0)7798 526070 Circulation Manager Tim Harris Production Manager John Beare IT Manager Vince Jones Subscriptions Manager Chris Wigg (See page 74 for subscription details) Published by Tailor Made Publishing Ltd PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH t. +44 (0)1202 586848 Printed by Precision Colour Printing Haldane, Halesfield 1 Telford, Shropshire TF7 4QQ t. +44 (0)1952 585585 ©Tailor Made Publishing Ltd 2016 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written permission of the publisher. All information and prices, as far as we are aware, are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Unsolicited artwork, manuscripts or designs are accepted on the understanding that Tailor Made Publishing Ltd incur no liability for their storage or return. Free gifts are available only with print editions, not with digital editions of the magazines. Tailor Made Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

Welcome “We wish you a merry Christmas, and a yarny New Year!” Season’s greetings from all of us at Inside Crochet – I hope you’re getting a chance to settle down with hook and yarn and indulge your creative side, in amongst all the frantic shopping and decorating and other Yuletide preparations. Whatever stage you’re at with Christmas planning, we’ve got the perfect project for you, from Madeleine Kimberley’s gorgeous Christmas tree to NT Maglia’s colourful Snow Valley Tote – just the thing for getting those presents home from the shops. Not forgetting of course Claire’s fun Pom Wreath design, which uses this issue’s great free gift, a set of super-simple mini pom-pom makers. If it’s presents you’re after, then Tracey Todhunter’s cosy hat and mitts set is sure to go down a treat, while her Super Skinny Scarf is just the thing for stylish friends and great for using up that special skein of sock yarn in your stash. And Liz Ward’s cheeky polar bear is sure to be loved by younger family members! Finally, if all your Christmas prep is out of the way, why not hook yourself some winter fashion to keep you cosy on the sofa? From a cabled dress to a classic cardigan, we’ve got all the patterns you need this season. Happy crocheting, and merry Christmas!

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Rhian Drinkwater, Editor

www.pinterest.com/insidecrochet www.facebook.com/insidecrochet @insidecrochet www.insidecrochet.co.uk 03

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9

6

CONTENTS ISSUE 84

67

12 Hook Rachel’s stunning motif scarf

98

NEWS & REVIEWS

FEATURES

06 IN THE LOOP

12 CONFESSIONS OF A PATTERN COLLECTOR

Discover stunning delftware patterns by Jane Crowfoot and two luscious new yarns from Deramores, meet blogger Sheila Zachariae and put a wool show in your diary for 2017.

09 YARN REVIEWS Treat your hook to some fantastic new yarns this month including a Rowan Selects yak-blend yarn, a glossy jersey ribbon and a glitzy fashion number from King Cole.

11 BOOK REVIEWS Fashion accessories by Melissa Leapman, Christmas ornaments, baby blankets, plus a great guide to bobbles, puffs and popcorns.

24 CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE Gorgeous gifts for your fellow crocheters, plus ideas for the rest of the family, too.

Rachel Atkinson reveals an obsession with vintage chair back covers, and is inspired to create an elegant starflower scarf in a heavenly mohair-blend yarn.

36 POM-POM WREATH Can’t wait to try out this issue’s fun cover gift? Cosy up with Claire Montgomerie and make a festive wreath with fluffy pom-poms to hang on your door, plus why not hook some mini wreaths to decorate your tree?

24

98 FINAL THOUGHT We chat to Suffolk designer Esme Crick about learning to crochet and starting to design, plus hear about her passion for colour, a character called Wolfie, and her favourite spot for crocheting.

04 Inside Crochet

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Make it

POM-POM WREATH Use your free gift to make a gloriously festive decoration. PAGE 36

60

Patterns in this issue

42 Natalia Cardigan

46 Nordic Tank Dress

50 Meredith Jumper

53 Super Skinny Scarf

54 Delicata Wrap

56 Snow Valley Tote

59 Peasy Cowl

60 Cavendish Set

64 All-American Blanket

67 Santa Hat

68 Dream Cloud

70 Angel Tunic

73 Dragonfly Wings Scarf

76 Fluffy Polar Bear

79 Christmas Tree

79

REGULARS 58 BACK ISSUES Missed that must-have pattern or lost that favourite feature? Turn here to order Inside Crochet back issues.

74 SUBSCRIPTIONS It’s the perfect Christmas gift for a fellow crocheter, or just to treat yourself – have every issue delivered direct to your door.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY Treat yourself to an Inside Crochet subscription! Turn to page 74 for details

78 NEXT ISSUE We’ve got a whole host of colourful projects lined up to keep you busy and bright in the New Year.

89 HOW TO CROCHET If you’re new to crochet, turn here for our illustrated guide to stitches and techniques, sponsored by Stylecraft.

83 Knot Garden

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News etc

IN THE LOOP BLOGS | BOOKS | REVIEWS | EVENTS | INTERVIEWS

WINTER WA R M E R ➻ A brilliant project for the season, the new Evolution scarf from Wendy means you work seamlessly, straight from the box and avoiding pesky tangles. It comes with a soft cotton acrylic DK yarn, and the boxes come in six colourways with evocative names that get you all set to wrap up for an adventure. Choose from the greys of Cliff, heathers and greens of Mountain, naturals of Arctic, blues of Ocean, bright pinks of Volcano or turquoises of Jungle. With a crochet and knit pattern tucked inside, this makes a lovely gift. £15, www.tbramsden.co.uk

[ S H O P S W E LOV E ]

Clare Wools ➻ Clare Wools is based on the west Wales coast in Aberystwyth, where it’s been since the early ’60s. A cosy, busy shop filled with all types of yarn from baby alpaca, silk, Merino to acrylics, in all different thicknesses, Clare Wools stocks Sirdar, Sublime, Debbie Bliss, Rowan and King Cole, to name a few. You’ll find crochet and knitting patterns a-plenty, plus haberdashery, needles and hooks. Cynthia and Helen have years of experience, so there’s always help at hand with any problem. They post to anywhere in the world, update their website and are on Facebook, too. www.clarewools.co.uk

We Love

[ N E W YA R N ]

Cuddle-worthy creations ➻ Designer and presenter Vickie Howell (see our chat in issue 80) has teamed up with Deramores to launch two new, luxurious lines: Mod Wool in soft 100% Superwash Merino, and Woolpaca Chunky, a lofty chainette yarn in 80% Merino and 20% baby alpaca, also washable. Vickie has whipped up two contemporary patterns using Mod Wool for you to get your hooks into: a striped Granny Throw in black, aqua and cream, and a fun pom-pom Hexi Hat in two bright colours. With Woolpaca Chunky available in eight rich tones and classic neutrals, and Mod Wool in eight pop colours inspired by midcentury design (think coral, avocado green, baby pink, turquoise), go as bold as you please and inject new cheer into your home and wardrobe. Mod Wool, £10.75 for 100g, Woolpaca Chunky, £7.50 for 50g, patterns £3.95, www.deramores.com

N EW Y E A R T R E AT! ➻ A date for your 2017 diary and the ideal way to perk up the post-Christmas blues, head to the Waltham Abbey Wool Show in Essex on 15 January. Now in its fourth year, this fun and colourful show prides itself on being friendly, with passionate exhibitors who love to share their expertise and show that crochet and knitting can be “modern, exciting and funky!” You’ll find luscious hand-dyed yarns, beautiful handmade wool and felt items, unique crochet and knit kits and a wide selection of accessories from buttons to crochet hooks for sale. See demonstrations of spinning, rag rugging, weaving and wire knitting, plus book onto one of nine workshops available (£10 online). After the success of last year’s Funky Gloves competition, visitors are invited to bring along their creations for the Funky Neckwear competition, and their latest crochet and knitting projects to share. 15 January, 10am– 4pm, tickets £3.50 in advance, £5 on the day. www.walthamabbeywoolshow.co.uk www.instagram.com/walthamabbeywool

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IN THE LOOP

News etc

DIARY ✽ 10 & 11 DECEMBER

WONDERFUL WONDERWORKS Held in Chagford village, this craft fair in Dartmoor showcases the beautiful creations of 27 craftspeople, including textiles, ceramics, leather and metal work, jewellery and body products. 10am–5pm (4.30pm Sunday), www.wonderworkscraft.com

✽ 17–19 FEBRUARY 2017

Don’t Miss!

[ N E W PAT T E R N S ]

UNRAVEL

Delftware-inspired delights

This three-day festival of handspun yarns, knitting, talks and more has been running since 2009 in Farnham. Learn new crochet and knitting skills and swoon over 80 innovative makers selling yarn and accessories. Keep up to date at craft.farnhammaltings.com/ portfolio/unravel

➻ If you appreciate the intricate blue and cream Dutch delftware pottery featuring elaborate flowers or birds, you’ll absolutely love Jane Crowfoot’s stunning new patterns, inspired by this art. Choose from two blankets: the Willow Blossom Cot Blanket, a relatively easy design made from a repeated flower motif in just seven rounds, is ideal for a newborn to snuggle up under; while the Delft Crochet Blanket, made from repeated hexagon motifs and featuring a snazzy zig-zag side edge, will look lovely draped across a sofa or bed. Jane found the many blues within the MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino range perfect for achieving the subtle and beautiful colour scheme of delftware, making these blankets dreamily soft against the skin. They’ll add a gorgeous, stylish note to your home and are sure to become much-treasured pieces. Willow Blossom Cot Blanket pattern, £3.80, Delft Crochet Blanket pattern, £4.80. www.janiecrow.co.uk, www.lovecrochet.com

W E LOV E … These adorable unicorn crochet hooks, handmade in polymer clay by Lisa Harland from her studio in Glasgow, Scotland. Because every crocheter secretly believes in unicorns. Make your stitches magical. £8, www.fortheloveofyarnuk.etsy.com

[ ACC E S S O RY ]

Wanderlust bag ➻ We all like to travel with our latest WIP ready for a spot of hooking on the train or bus, or while waiting. This beautifully handcrafted bag, in sturdy vegan leather and lined with pretty patterned fabric, would make a special gift for any fellow crocheter out and about over the festive period. With clever pockets and a magnetic snap, it’ll keep any creation safe. In fact, nothing has been overlooked by Sheffield-based designer Leni Collins. There’s room to store yarn in the zippered pouch, while the flap reveals four pockets for hooks, one for scissors, and a ribbon to hang stitch markers. The bag measures 19cm/7½in tall by 22cm/8¾in) wide when closed, making it ideal for those small, sweet projects. Nomad Crochet Bag, £25, www.lenisomethingboho.etsy.com

✽ 24 & 25 FEBRUARY 2017

KNIT & STITCH IT Indulge in two fun-filled shopping days in Farnborough, browsing fabulous materials, kits and crafting supplies. Watch demos, sit in on a make ‘n’ take or get to grips with a new technique. 9.30am–5pm. Tickets £7.50 in advance, £11.25 for both days. www.knitandstitch-it.org.uk

✽ 2–5 MARCH

THE SPRING KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW The crafting festival heads to Olympia in London. Packed with over 200 exhibitors selling yarn, craft essentials, fabric and more and with a host of workshops, from knitting with wire to rag rugging. Tickets £13 in advance. www.theknittingand stitchingshow.com

WORKSHOPS ✽ SUNDAY 18 DECEMBER

LEARN TO CROCHET AMIGURUMI Learn how to read a pattern and increase or decrease and create your own animal from Edward’s Menagerie. Bring a 3mm hook (or buy for £3). £15, 10–12am, including TOFT yarn to create a sample piece, a hot drink and cake! www.thetoftalpacashop.co.uk

✽ TUESDAY 24 JANUARY

BEGINNERS’ CROCHET Learn the basic crochet stitches with Jacinta Bowie at the newly refurbished Saddleworth Museum, Uppermill. £20, 6–9pm. Follow Jacinta @saddleworth_ craft_workshops. To book, email [email protected]

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We Love

[CAREERS]

CROCHET ENTREPRENEURS We chat to Australian designer Sarah London about the joys of launching new patterns. sarahlondon.wordpress.com

[ N E W PAT T E R N ]

Glorious geometrics ➻ Originally launched as a crochet-along, this sassy blanket in a gorgeous geometric pattern was designed by crochet duo Emma Potter (of Potter & Bloom) and Emma Friedlander-Collins (of Steel & Stitch), using Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran. Hook different granny squares using everything from simple stitches to cables and special stitch borders. Choose from Emma Potter’s dreamy pastel palette with zesty sherbet shades and a playful pom-pom edge, or Emma Friedlander-Collins’ rich reds, cosy mustard and oranges blended with deep grey and a flourish of tassels. £36 for the yarn pack. www.lovecrochet.com

[ F E ST I V E ACC E S S O RY ]

It’s a wrap! ➻ It’s that time of year when our thoughts are turning to gift wrapping our crochet creations – and nothing beats some pretty ribbons. New designs from the Berisfords Natural Charms Collection feature a rustic, neutral background with gorgeous, heartwarming motifs that are both classic and charming. Designs include holly and berries, snowflakes, tiny smiling gingerbread, white turtle doves, leaping reindeer, stockings and trees. These stylish ribbons will complement handmade papers beautifully and they’ll be great for all sorts of crafty projects, too. Approx 75p per metre. For stockists email [email protected]

Crochet designer and blogger Sarah London lives on the beautiful east coast of Australia with her husband and children and sells her patterns on Ravelry and her WordPress blog. Sarah’s grandmother taught her to knit and crochet at an early age. She remembers watching her grandmother crochet granny squares and being mesmerised by the colourful yarns. Her love of crafting, colour and design grew. “I used to work in a patchwork and quilting store. Although I have always crocheted, I initially designed and taught patchwork quilt classes!” The transition from crocheter to designer began when people starting requesting patterns for her work. Her patterns became very popular, leading to her first book, Granny Square Love, being published. Sarah draws inspiration from fashion and homewares. “When I see a trend emerging I think how I could incorporate that into crochet,” she says. “Whether it be in form or colour, texture or symbols. I think about how to keep crochet on point in a modern society.” With so many fabulous patterns, from a pretty flower sampler and snuggly blanket in bright diagonal lines, to a geometric cushion with pops of neon and a chakra blanket to warm the heart, Sarah has something for everyone. “The Loopy Roses corsage is a favourite and loved by many,” Sarah says. “The Apache Tears blanket has proven to be extremely popular. It is a visually stimulating design and beautifully

textured and looks fabulous worked in numerous colourways.” Sarah finds that running her business is very rewarding and fills most of her day. “I enjoy all the elements, from the initial concept of a design through to the finished pdf article. Selecting the palette, the construction, the photography and writing the instructions. The launch of a new pattern is always an exciting day!” Sarah’s sons Jack, 22 and Tom, 17 are living at home while her daughter Emma, 26, recently moved into a home of her own. “With my children virtually grown up I have the luxury of my time being my own,” she says, adding that her secret is to structure her day to keep herself focussed. “I’m a list girl and love the satisfaction of ticking things off.” Sarah also loves the freedom that comes with running her own business. “The beauty of having an online business is that you can work anywhere in the world. Time zones do play an important role and I prioritise answering emails as efficiently as I can as people purchase my patterns from all continents.” When she’s in her workspace, the item she couldn’t live without, she says, is her iMac. “It’s the portal to the online world. WordPress, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest allow me to connect and present my designs globally.” What exciting plans does Sarah have for 2017? “I’m planning a series of crochet retreats which I’m really looking forward to. I’d also like to collaborate with a yarn company in the future and produce a palette of scrumptious yarn.”

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[ YA R N R E V I E W ]

Add to your stash

YARNS WE LOVE

IN THE LOOP

Yarn Reviews

[QUESTION TIME]

W E A SK ED OU R R E A DER S…

WORDS RHIAN DRINKWATER

Do you use crochet to decorate your home at Christmas?

Rowan Soffili Yak A new yarn from the Rowan Selects limited edition range, this brushed effect yarn creates a light and airy fabric and is available in five colours. It’s a very hairy, grippy yarn to work with, though is easier to rip back than you’d expect. The finished fabric creates a solid, consistent texture, so this would work well for designs that don’t rely on intricate stitch patterns.

Don’t forget, we are now offering a free one-year subscription to Inside Crochet for our favourite response, so send us your comments! 32% nylon/27% wool/25% alpaca/16% yak 50g/165m/180yds £9.95 from www.englishyarns.co.uk

Bergère de France Lumis This jersey ribbon yarn is smooth to work with and has a springy feel – it’s so light to hook with you hardly notice it running through your fingers! It creates a very stretchy fabric with a shiny, glossy look. Lumis is available in seven shades: this striking red as well as tones of silver, black and bronze. Great for party accessories.

➻ Ashley Clark: YES. Ornaments, pot holders, hats for the cats, stockings for the cats, catnip mice for the cats… maybe I crochet too much for my cats. 100% polyester • 50g/95m/103yds £4.25 from www.bergeredefrance.co.uk

Deramores Vickie Howell Mod Wool Deramores has joined forces with US craft personality Vickie Howell to launch two new yarns. This superwash Merino wool is a roving style single-ply yarn, which only has a light twist but still feels strong to work with. It’s silky smooth to hook, giving amazing stitch definition and creating a fabric with a satisfying weight and drape.

➻ Laura Jane: Yes, at Christmas you can have the exact decorations, to the exact specifications you want!! 100% Merino wool • 100g/125m/136yds £10.75 from www.deramores.com

➻ Emily Lucy Greentree: This is my first crochet Christmas and I am so excited to be making some decorations! ➻ Lucy Collin: My Christmas bunting is a major part of the decoration and I have crowns to go in homemade crackers. ➻ Lynzi Venn: On the never-ending list of things to do are sparkly snowflakes for the tree and Advent calender pockets.

75% polyester/25% lurex • 50g/70m/77yds £2.50 from www.sconch.com

Hoooked Ribbon XL Choose this super-chunky recycled yarn for projects that will work up super quickly! Working with bulky tape-style yarns can feel very different to finer crochet, but the jersey construction of this yarn means it has a nice stretch, making it easier on the hands. Turn to page 68 for our Ribbon XL project as well as a money-saving yarn offer.

➻ Linda Kaby: Last year I made some baubles, Santas and cards with crocheted appliqués. Homemade makes me feel snuggly in my little Christmas bubble. ➻ Michelle: Yes! It’s everywhere, bunting, stockings, mini hats for everything…

King Cole Tinsel Chunky Get set for Christmas with this sparkling fashion yarn. It can feel slightly strange to hook with at first, but it creates an even fluffy, glitzy fabric. Working into a foundation chain can be tricky, but once you’ve got going the stitches are easy to recognise. Tinsel Chunky is available in 35 shades, ideal for glam edgings and more.

WINNER! LYNN DUDLEY-TAYLOR ➻ Absolutely! Last year I bought a huge box of cheap baubles in January, then proceeded to cover each one in crochet ready for Christmas!! (Great planning Lynn! Inside Crochet team)

➻ Ann Brown: Crochet gift bags to hold chocs or small gifts for the table.

FOL L OW!

80% recycled cotton/20% recycled fibres • 250g/120m/131yds £7.44 from www.hoooked.co.uk

Check out the MK Cro chet Facebook page to see inspiration al images and updates from crochet designer Megan Kreiner, author of Creepy Crawly Crochett. It’s packed with adorab le amigurumi and quirky toy designs! www.facebook.com/m kcrochet

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Blog

WE LOVE

Sheila Zachariae [ C R O C H E T- I N S P I R E D ]

Sent with love ➻ Fellow crocheters will love receiving one of these fabulous new cards by Claire Bennett. “When I learnt crochet I started to read the diagrams,” she explains. “I loved the notation – being a musician I have always read sheet music and the stitches were not too dissimilar!” The laser-cut designs show Claire’s stitches, based on designs for her freeform crochet jewellery (www.hookandteasel.co.uk). Two designs are available, each in two colours. £2.95 each. www.shopbeyondmeasure.co.uk

[ N E W TO C R O C H E T ]

Getting hooked Beginner crocheter Caroline Bawn continues her crochet journey… ➻ “I am delighted with the way the Hexagon Blanket by Nicki Trench (issue 66) has been coming together. The little hexagons are quick to do, and in an evening I can watch my favourite programmes on TV, and hook up four or five. I couldn’t wait to start putting them together so here they are. I am using Nurturing Fibres Eco Cotton, which has a lovely sheen and texture and is hand-dyed so each of these little hexagons has subtle variations. “I’m still surprised by how quickly crochet projects can be made and I am really enjoying learning new stitches as I go!”

Read more at www.insidecrochet.co.uk and visit Caroline’s shop at www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk.

www.sheilazachariae.blogspot.com Tell us about yourself… I live in Omaha, Nebraska, USA with my husband, Brian. We have just celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary! We have a grown daughter, Zoe, out on her own, who is the model for my knitwear. Could you tell us a bit about what you do? I’m an independent knitwear pattern designer and have happily been so since about 2004. I can most often be found in my chair surrounded by yarn, fabric, needles, hooks and many spiral

January, in Denver, Colorado, USA and met many of them there. I was so thrilled! Now, they truly are my friends in real life! How did you learn to crochet? I was in my early 20s. I already knew how to knit, having been taught by my mother. I picked up a beginner crochet book at a craft store, bought some worsted weight yarn and got started with a baby blanket. How did you start designing? I started early in 2004 as I was forced to stay off my feet for long periods of time. I needed

“My studio is filled with the things I love, as it is my only room I do not share with anyone!” notebooks filled with ideas, sketches and colour combinations. How long have you been blogging? Gosh, I couldn’t tell you exactly but I believe about ten years or so. What inspired you to start blogging? I have been following Lucy at Attic24 (www.attic24.typepad.com) for the longest time. I adore her! Her love of colour, baking and little walks around her neighbourhood. Do you use any other social media? I love Instagram! So much to discover and I find it easier and quicker than blogging. Most of my photos are about knitting and crocheting, but I also share pics about food and second-hand store treasures. I am on Facebook and Twitter too. Have you made new friends through blogging? I have, if you can call someone a friend that you haven’t actually met in person. I went to a Craftsy summit last

to do something, so I picked up some knitting needles and started with a scarf. Next thing I knew, I had 50 of them! Off to a local art gallery I go to peddle my wares. They loved and sold them all. Creative Designs was born. What are your sources of inspiration? Colour. Clothing, nature, jewellery… colour is everywhere. Often when I go on vacation, I see all sorts of inspiration. The seaside, water, shells, the beach. Architecture is also great for designing. If you look at a building, you see points, circles, straight lines. I sometimes think: “That shape would make a great shawl!” What item couldn’t you live without? My studio is filled with the things I love, as it is my only room that I do not share with anyone! Photos, gifts of yarn bowls and paintings, and my cross stitch projects I did from nine years old into my 20s. What are you working on at the moment? Fall and winter are my busiest times – the list of orders for scarves and baby blankets is long. Who are your favourite other bloggers or designers? Moogly (www.mooglyblog. com) and Craftsy (www.craftsy.com/ blog) are my most beloved blogs. Susan B Anderson is a favourite author for all things baby and I love the designers behind Vogue Knitting.

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BOOKS WE REVIEW NEW AND EXCITING RELEASES

IN THE LOOP

Books

WE ARE A L SO R E A DI NG...

Christmas Ornaments To Crochet Megan Kreiner • Spring House Press, $22.95 (£18.82) • US terminology

TURN TO PAGE 54 TO MAKE THE STUNNING DELICATA REVERSIBLE WRAP FROM THIS BOOK

➻ This adorable collection of 31 festive designs includes Santa, elves, Christmas treats, woodland friends and a gorgeous nativity, as well as a chapter of patterns for “Baby’s first Christmas”, which includes a teddy with heart that you can stitch the year onto. The designs are all worked in 4ply yarn on a 2.75mm hook (though could easily be made larger with a thicker yarn and hook) and are quite fiddly – but adorably cute and definitely worth the concentration needed to create them!

Granny Square Baby Afghans Carol Holding • Leisure Arts, £5.99, available from www.thegmcgroup.com US terminology

Designer Crochet Accessories Melissa Leapman Creative Publishing International, £12.99

➻ Whether you’ve got a baby on the way or are after something cosy to snuggle up under on the sofa, this collection of seven colourful blankets may be just what you need. Combining the classic granny square design with textured and raised stitches in some great colour combinations, these cheerful afghan designs are just what we’re after for some comfort crochet this Boxing Day. Turn to page 64 to make the colourful All-American Baby Blanket.

US terminology ➻ Inspired by the massive amount of crochet making its way onto catwalks and designer collections across the globe, Melissa Leapman (www.facebook.com/melissa. leapman.designs) has put together this set of 25 on-trend projects, designed to be fun to stitch and easy to wear. The collection ranges from cosy cowls and hats to lacy scarves and shawls, practical totes and handbags and even some stylish crocheted jewellery, including a delicate ring worked in a fine mercerised cotton on a 1.65mm hook. (At the opposite end of the scale is the striking Prepster scarf, worked in roving wool on an 11.5mm hook!) Techniques range from cables to colourwork to lace, and each design includes both written instructions and a clear chart, helping you to visualise how the stitches work together as you hook. There’s also a guide to reading the charts plus an illustrated introduction to the basic stitches. Our favourite designs include the Fair Isle-style Collafirth hat (above), the lacy Harmonia mitts, worked in a pastel self-striping yarn, and the retro style Haymarket bias scarf, perfect for pulling close on a cold December night. With designs ranging from simple beginner projects to elaborate cable designs, this would make a great Christmas gift for any crocheter.

Popcorns, Bobbles & Puffs To Crochet Lindy Zubairy Quarto Press, £9.95 • UK terminology ➻ Intrigued by popcorn stitches? Fancy adding some texture to your crochet? Then this book by Inside Crochet designer Lindy Zubairy is for you! Beginning with an introduction to crochet and the concepts of bobbles, puffs and popcorns, the book moves on to a range of different stitches and ways of arranging them, with plenty of large, colourful swatches to show you how the techniques work up. Finally there’s a small collection of projects to try. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 11

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All yarn and accessories can be found online and in-store at Loop. www.loopknitting.com Quote “InsideCrochet” to receive a 10% discount on the Shalimar yarn used in this project, until 21 December 2016

Confessions of a Pattern Collector RachelAtkinson laments the decline in crocheted chair back covers, and draws on a daisy motif from a vintage design to create a modern scarf. | Rachel Atkinson is a crochet designer and technical editor. Find her online at www.mylifeinknitwear.Com and on Ravelry, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest as Knittingtastic.

W

ant to hear a secret? I am slightly obsessed with crocheted chair back covers. It feels good to get that out and I’m sure I can’t be the only one for whom these ever-decreasing sightings bring an inordinate amount of pleasure? There was a time when the backs and arms of sofas and “proper” upright chairs were adorned with decorative covers to protect the fabric from the stains of everyday life. It’s strange that these incredibly useful coverings have all but vanished, especially in a time when so many of us are conscious of treading more carefully on our planet by making careful decisions about the longevity of the objects we purchase. I guess they are now seen as slightly old fashioned and out of favour with modern life, but I am convinced that worked in bright and modern colourways they would make a useful addition to our front room décor. Published in 1968, Chairback Designs by the Coats group is a collection of patterns that certainly wouldn’t look out of place in many of the midcentury inspired homes showcased in glossy magazines today. The introduction of the booklet heralds: “Victoriana is back with us, with the wealth of crochet patterns which are now high fashion,” demonstrating how trends come around again and again, reinterpreted for the modern day. It then continues with references to the fashionable

shade palettes of the day: “If you wish to be up to the minute, decorate your chairs… From softest blue to a bold harmony of brown and buttercup, we offer colour schemes to offset the most modern or traditional room”. Tastes do change and our homes are not necessarily about being bang up to date with the latest interior trends – believe me, mine isn’t – but it’s interesting to see styles coming around again with a modern spin. This month I had the opportunity to work with one of my favourite natural fibres; mohair. A new addition to the shelves of Loop, Aerie is a stunning single ply yarn by Shalimar, blended from Merino wool and mohair with a smidge of silk – and it’s truly heavenly! The sheen on it would have you believe it contains stellina or some other sparkly addition, and the halo from the mohair is just enough to bring a soft edge to the points of the finished motifs. I’m completely in love, especially in this beautifully festive shade of red. The Starflower crochet pattern is taken from the Daisy Motif Chairback design showcased in the booklet. Originally made in a fine crochet thread on a 1mm hook, I have upped the hook size and worked in a join-as-you-go pattern to create a scarf instead. If you finish crocheting after having worked an even number of motifs (the pattern suggests 20), you also have the option of joining the ends to create an infinity loop. You could even turn it into a chair back cover!

12 Inside Crochet

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V1 - shades of grey

V2 - shades of cyan

ADD TO THE STASH yarn from Buy this mohair-blend .com op gsh tin nit www.loopk

Starflower Scarf Hook this stunning join-as-you-go scarf today.

MATERIALS ● Shalimar Yarns Aerie, 70% Merino wool/ 20% mohair/10% silk, 100g/384m/420yds Shade: Radio Flyer x 1 skein ● 3mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any 4ply/fingering weight yarn with a good drape to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work one motif to measure 13cm/ 5in from point-to-point using 3mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

hook), [yrh and draw through first 2 loops on hook] five times. PATTERN NOTES The scarf can easily be converted into a loop as follows: After completing the pattern and ensuring you have worked an even number of motifs, join the ends by working slip stitches to secure the points of the motifs together as you have throughout the pattern. This can be done in one go by joining the yarn and slip stitching to the next point to be joined.

MEASUREMENTS Width: 26cm/10¼in. Length: 136cm/53½in.

MOTIF 1 With 3mm hook, 8ch, sl st to first ch to make a ring. Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as st throughout), 16dc in ring, sl st to first dc – 16 sts. Rnd 2: 1ch, [2dc in next st, 1dc] around, sl st to first dc – 24 sts.

SPECIAL STITCHES Quadruple treble (qtr): Yrh four times, insert hook in designated st, yrh and draw up a loop (6 loops on

Rnd 3: [11ch, sl st in next dc] 23 times, 5ch, 1qtr (see Special Stitches) in same dc as last sl st worked (counts as one 11ch-sp) – 24 11ch-sps.

START

Rnd 4: 1ch, insert hk in 5ch and 1qtr ch-sp and draw up a lp, insert hk in next 11ch-sp and draw up a lp, yrh and draw through 3 lps on hook (one joint-dc made), 7ch, * insert hk in next 11ch-sp and draw up a lp, insert hk in next 11ch-sp and draw up a lp, yrh and draw through 3 lps on hook, 7ch; rep from * a further 10 times, 4ch, 1tr in first joint dc of rnd (counts as one 7ch-sp) – 12 7ch-sps. Rnd 5: 1ch, 1dc in last 7ch-sp made, *8ch, (1dc, 5ch, 1dc, 5ch) in next 7ch-sp **, (1dc, 5ch, 1dc) in next 7ch-sp; rep from * around ending last rep at **, 1dc in same 7ch-sp as first dc, 2ch, 1tr in first dc (counts as one 5ch-sp) – 6 8ch-sps and 18 5ch-sps. Rnd 6: 1ch, 1dc in last 5ch-sp made, * work (6tr, 5ch, 1dc in last tr (picot made), 6tr) in next 8ch-sp, 1dc in next 5ch-sp, [7ch, 1dc in next 5ch-sp] twice; rep from * ending last rep with 7ch, join with sl st in first dc. Fasten off. MOTIF 2 Work rnds 1–5 as Motif 1.

Rnd 6: 1ch, 1dc in last 5ch-sp made, in next 8ch-sp work 6tr, 2ch, sl st in any picot from Motif 1, 2ch, 1dc in last tr made (joining picot made), 6tr in same 8ch-sp, 1dc in next 5ch-sp, [3ch, sl st in next 5ch-sp of Motif 1, 3ch, 1dc in next 5ch-sp of Motif 2] twice, work [6tr, joining picot, 6tr] in next 8ch-sp of Motif 2, complete Motif 2 as for Motif 1: * 1dc in next 5ch-sp, [7ch, 1dc in next 5ch-sp] twice, work [6tr, 5ch, 1dc in last tr (picot made), 6tr] in next 8ch-sp; rep from * ending last rep with 7ch, join with sl st in first dc. Fasten off. MOTIFS 3–20 Make a further 18 Motifs, joining adjacent sides as Motif 2 was joined to Motif 1 working in a zig-zag from one side to the other. Where three picots meet, join the third picot to the join of the first two. FINISHING Weave in ends and block to measurements, taking time to pin out all the points.

END

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Meredith Jumper by Rhian Drinkwater Using MillaMia Naturally Soft Aran Pattern page 50

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MERRY CHRISTMAS! ’Tis the season to get crocheting, with our gorgeous festive designs and must-hook winter fashion. PHOTOGRAPHS KIRSTEN MAVRIC STYLING CLAIRE MONTGOMERIE HAIR AND MAKE-UP NICKI HENBREY



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Cavendish Hat & Mitts Set by Tracey Todhunter Using West Yorkshire Spinners Bluefaced Leicester Aran Pattern page 60

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Snow Valley Tote by NT Maglia Using Drops Alaska Pattern page 56

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Dragonfly Wings Scarf by Red Sparrow Crochet Using Drops Karisma DK Pattern page 73

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Santa Hat by Rhian Drinkwater Using Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake DK and Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Pattern page 67 www.insidecrochet.co.uk 19

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Nordic Tank Dress by Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot Using Blacker Yarns Gotland DK Pattern page 46

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Natalia Cardigan by Ruth Maddock Using Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK Pattern page 42 www.insidecrochet.co.uk 21

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O’Tannenbaum! by Madeleine Kimberley Using King Cole Big Value Chunky Pattern page 79

Angel Tunic by Jacinta Bowie Using Wool And The Gang Sugar Baby Alpaca Pattern page 70

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Christmas Pom Wreaths by Claire Montgomerie Using Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky Pattern page 37

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Gorgeous Yarns Inspire and create We now exclusively stock Purely Gorgeous, a 100% Organic Merino yarn

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Gorgeous gifts

OUR PICK OF FANTASTIC IDEAS THEY’LL LOVE

RETRO CHARM

HEART TO HEART

NOURISH THE SOUL

Pop your crafting bits and bobs into this utterly sweet little handmade bag. Comes in an array of pretty patterned fabrics!

Spread the love this Christmas with a showstopping double heart shawl pin, beautifully handcrafted from sterling silver.

A thoughtful gift for eco-conscious crocheters, they’ll love the vibrant shades in the gorgeous hand-dyed Eco Cotton Nurturing Fibres range.

£18

❆ www.theochiltree.etsy.com

£59

❆ www.jewellerybycallumkilts.com

£4.50

❆ www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk

We Love

CUDDLE WORTHY

SILVER SHEEP

BOHO ELEGANCE

You can’t get more indulgent than Loop Alpaca Tweed, a deliciously soft blend of natural and hand-dyed British alpaca fibre.

For an extra-special gift, this solid silver bangle is topped with an adorable miniature herdy. The range includes a pendant, charm and earrings.

Dazzle at your next party with this woolwrapped shawl pin in vivid colours, handmade in Buenos Aires; it can also be worn in your hair.

£22.95

❆ www.loopknittingshop.com

£89

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£22

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SUPER STORAGE

SWEET SHOP DELIGHTS

CRAFTY CONFECTIONS

Long-lasting, eco-friendly, fairtrade and in fantastic colours, these African market baskets are just the thing for yarn addicts!

Treat a friend to a sumptuously soft WYS Signature 4ply yarn, with 35% Bluefaced Leicester and in yummy candy-bright shades!

It’s hard to believe the items in this box (spot the ball of wool!) are made entirely of chocolate! Definitely one for the chocoholic crafter.

From £27

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£6.99

❆ www.thedroppedstitch.co.uk

£19

❆ www.thechocolateworkshop.co.uk

24 Inside Crochet

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Searching for the perfect present for family and friends? Choose from our selection of yummy yarn, beautiful accessories and brilliant crafty treats.

We Love

FLORAL FIESTA

HELLO, FLOWER

SET SAIL

Turn heads in these crocheted flower hairclips, made with the designer’s own handspun wool, vintage trim and sparkly embellishments.

Send a super-sweet greeting and encourage a crocheting newbie with this easy-to-make corsage kit. They’ll soon be hooked!

Add a sweet vintage touch to your party dress with this exquisite lacy Sea Salt Shawl pattern from The Captain & Lovely .

£7

❆ www.eco-create.co.uk

£11.95

❆ www.gilliangladrag.co.uk

£2.50



www.eco-create.co.uk

FABULOUS FOXGLOVES

LITTLE GEMS

FOR THE RECORD

Amanda Perkins fans will love this gift of her wonderful Foxgloves blanket patterns, plus a skein of luxurious Fyberspates Merino/silk yarn.

Add a bit of sheepy sparkle to your outfit with this adjustable bangle and matching earrings with multi-coloured diamante sheep charms.

Treat a fellow crafter to this super-useful WIP-O-PEDIA, with 40 project sheets to keep track of everything you’re making.

£24

❆ www.amandaperkinscrochet.etsy.com

£23

❆ www.catdesignz.etsy.com

£9.50

❆ www.doodlestop.co.uk

RAINBOW HOOKS

FIBRE FUN!

FIZZLE! WHIZZ! BANG!

Choose a theme for a friend and Nicola Hallman will create a colourful, ergonomic crochet hook – from unicorns and under the sea to Poldark!

The Yarn Lover colouring-in book by Lisa Harland is packed with gorgeous, woolly illustrations that will make everyone smile.

Inspire a friend to hook a super-cosy new pair of socks or shawl with Peak District Yarns’ beautiful and striking 4ply Merino Fireworks line.

From £6

❆ www.fleabubsbylala.etsy.com

£15

❆ www.fortheloveofyarnuk.etsy.com

£14

❆ www.peakdistrictyarns.co.uk www.insidecrochet.co.uk 25

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Gifts for little ones

Treat the children in your life with our fun and colourful ideas.

WALKIES!

BEACH VIBES

AHOY, THERE!

They can pack their toys into this bright and cheerful doggie backpack when they’re out and about over the Christmas hols.

Spark their imaginations as they set off on a surfing road trip in this retro wooden camper van with Colin and his family and pet dog.

Noughts and crosses never goes amiss, and this wooden set with cute blue and red sailing boats is ideal for make-believe play too.

£20

❆ www.beckyandlolo.co.uk

£32

❆ www.jammtoys.com

£9.95

❆ www.redberryapple.co.uk

TWEET! TWEET!

INTO THE WILD

COLOUR ME IN

Get a child interested in sewing with this inquisitive little bluebird kit, who’s sure to become a treasured feathered friend.

The adventure starts right here! A study bag with waterproof camouflage tarpaulin, tent pegs and more, this will get little explorers outside.

The perfect gift for an arty child, this is one item of clothing it’s okay for them to draw on! With a variety of designs to choose, on a soft tee.

£18

❆ www.claraandmacy.com

£35

❆ www.flibberty.com

£22

❆ www.thelittlepicturecompany.co.uk

We Love

MEET THE MENAGERIE

NIGHT, NIGHT

ROARSOME!

Little ones will have oodles of fun with these sweet, brightly-coloured Russian animal nesting dolls with quizzical faces.

Encourage a little one to share your love of yarn with the Big Owl beginners’ knitting kit. Supercuddly, he’ll become a favourite at bedtime.

Young children will love these felt dinosaur tree ornaments and it’s the ideal project to do together one rainy afternoon.

£19.95

❆ www.littlebabycompany.com

£25

❆ www.charlieandhannah.co.uk

£15

❆ www.kittykaymakeandsew.etsy.com

26 Inside Crochet

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For the man in your life Fun and practical gifts he’s sure to love.

We Love

TECH COSY

MASTER BREWER

BON VOYAGE!

The Larry tech case, with leather strap and flap, is a long-standing WATG favourite and the perfect beginners’ project to get him hooking.

If he’s not into crochet (yet), he can still get involved with making. Craft beers are all the rage and now he can start brewing his own!

In a range of fabulous colours, this leather passport holder is a great gift for a jet-setter. Get his initials embossed as an extra-special touch.

£37.95

❆ www.woolandthegang.com

£29

❆ www.cuckooland.com

From £22

❆ www.brit-stitch.com

IN THE BAG

HUGS GALORE!

SNUGGLE UP

Made from hard-wearing canvas with leather flap and trims, this dapper despatch bag will keep everything together when he’s on the go.

He’ll be kept busy this Christmas giving lots of cuddles in this incredibly warm Barbour Fair Isle jumper in a super-soft wool cashmere blend.

Give him the pleasure of toasty toes this winter with these luxurious sheepskin slippers, with sturdy soles for padding around.

£45

❆ www.whitestuff.com

£109

❆ www.outdoorandcountry.co.uk

£42

❆ www.soakandsleep.com

FINE FABRICS

ON YER BIKE!

HANDSPUN HUNK

In handwoven silk Matisha fabric and with a silver-plated T-bar fitting, these beautiful cufflinks will add a stylish note to his outfit.

Know a gent who loves two-wheeled travel? This fun washbag will make him smile and is ideal for taking on visits over the holidays.

Make him a heavenly pullover from FeltOn Arts’ scrumptious Bluefaced Leicester or Falklands wool, handspun and dyed in Northumbria.

£19.50

❆ www.katherinefraser.co.uk

£14.95

❆ www.dotcomgiftshop.com

£16

❆ www.finefettlefibres.etsy.com www.insidecrochet.co.uk 27

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Dream Cloud by Zooeyzo Using Hoooked RibbonXL Pattern page 68

sweet dreams

Settle down with our calming crochet designs, perfect for hooking away the winter blues. Photographs Jason Masters, kirsten mavric, Roddy Paine Photographic Studio and Lucy Williams Styling claire Montgomerie Hair and make-up nicki henbrey



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sweet dreams

lefT Delicata Reversible Wrap by Melissa Leapman Using Plymouth Yarn Kid Gloss and Kid Gloss Hand Dyed Pattern page 54

RIGHT Peasy Cowl by Deborah Stuart Using King Cole Riot Chunky Pattern page 59 30 Inside Crochet

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Fluffy Polar Bear by Liz Ward Using James C Brett Flutterby Chunky Pattern page 76

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sweet dreams

lefT All-American Baby Blanket by Carol Holding Using Red Heart With Love Pattern page 64

RIGHT Knot Garden by Amanda Perkins Using 4ply weight yarn Pattern page 83 32 Inside Crochet

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Super Skinny Scarf by Tracey Todhunter Using Blue Moon Hand Dyed Natural Indigo Pattern page 53

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k u . o c . e s u o h e r a w www.wool 08/11/2016 19:25

rib

Your free gift ❤

IT’S POM-TASTIC! Claire Montgomerie shows you how to make the most of this issue’s great free gift with a gloriously festive wreath design. This month, your free gift is a wonderfully useful set of three mini pom-pom makers, just perfect for turning scraps of yarn into sweet poms and ideal to help decorate your home in time for Christmas! If you’ve ever tried making pom-poms with circles of cardboard or makers with a simple hole in the centre, you’ll appreciate just how much easier it is to work the poms in two halves, instead of having to wind off tiny balls of yarn to fit through the middle. These makers will save you huge amounts of time and energy, and are also great for children to use. To accompany the makers, we’ve brought you this beautifully simple wreath design, ideal for decorating your door this festive season, plus cute mini wreaths that are perfect for the tree. Merry Christmas!

HOW TO USE YOUR POM-POM MAKERS STEP 1: Open out the pieces of your free-pom-pom maker.

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

STEP 6

STEP 7

STEP 8

STEP 2: Click each set of two sides together to make each half of the maker. STEP 3: Wrap your yarn around each half of the pom-pom maker in turn. STEP 4: Join the two halves and clip together securely to make a complete circle STEP 5: Cut through the middle of each side of the pom-pom with a pair of small, sharp scissors. STEP 6: Tie a piece of yarn approximately 30cm/12in long very tightly around the middle of the pom-pom. Knot tightly to secure. STEP 7: Carefully remove the parts of the pom-pom maker from the pom-pom. STEP 8: Neaten the pom-pom by cutting off any yarn ends that poke out and then fluff up into a neat, squishy sphere by rolling gently in between your hands.

36 Inside Crochet

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Christmas Pom Wreaths ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

MATERIALS ● Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, 100% acrylic, 100g/136m/149yds Yarn A: Seafoam Blue 331 x 1 ball Yarn B: Washed Teal 332 x 1 ball Yarn C: Sky Blue 338 x 1 ball Yarn D: Tomato Red 31 x 1 ball Yarn E: Pistachio Green 324 x 1 ball ● 6mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Pom-pom makers in assorted sizes ● Small, sharp scissors ● Polystyrene wreath, 35cm/13¾in diameter ● Wooden curtain rings, 6.5cm/2½in diameter TENSION Work 12htr and 8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 6mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension.

MEASUREMENTS Large Wreath diameter: 35cm/14in. Mini Wreath diameter: 6.5cm/2½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Claire is a textiles designer specialising in knitting and crochet, constructing fabrics, garments, creatures and accessories which are fun, quirky and modern. Find out more at www.montyknits.blogspot.com. PATTERN NOTES Work a long strip in the following stripe sequence until the pattern says otherwise: Two rows yarn A Two rows yarn B One row yarn C One row yarn D Two rows yarn E Two rows yarn A Two rows yarn B Two rows yarn E You can work the entire strip in

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this stripe sequence, if you wish, but you may need an extra few balls of each colour. The way the stripes are worked in this pattern means that you will use up your yarn more efficiently. To make the pom-poms, the sample shown uses the three free gifts with this issue – 2.5cm, 3.5cm and 4.5cm diameter – plus the 5.5cm diameter pom-pom maker free with issue 74 and a 9cm diameter pom-pom maker. The mini wreathes uses small amounts of yarns B, C, D and E, and a 2.5cm pom-pom maker LARGE WREATH With 6mm hook and yarn A make 30ch. Row 1: 1htr in third ch from hook and each ch across – 28htr. Row 2: 2ch (counts as htr here and throughout), 1htr in each st across – 28 htr. Rep row 2, following the stripe START

sequence as set in Pattern Notes until four stripe sequences have been worked – 56 rows in total. Now work 16 rows straight in yarn C, then work straight in yarn D for 14 rows, or until long strip fits all the way round the circumference of the wreath. These two large stripes of colour will be covered with pom-poms. Do not fasten off, but join last row to the foundation chain edge with a sl st join to make the strip into a circle. Fasten off.

the ties long to use for sewing to the wreath. The sample shown has: Six 4.5 and 5.5cm pom-poms in yarn A. Four 3.5, 4.5 and 5.5cm pom-poms in yarn B. Six 3.5, 4.5, 5.5 and 9cm pom-poms in yarn C. Five 2.5 and 3.5cm pom-poms in yarn D. Six 3.5, 4.5, 5.5 and 9cm pom-poms in yarn E.

FINISHING Place crochet piece around the wreath, covering it entirely, and sewing up at the back of the wreath neatly with whip stitch.

Attach the pom-poms haphazardly to the plain striped section of the wreath with the long ties, but covering these stripes as well as you can. We left the ties hanging for an informal look, but you can weave these in if desired.

Make enough pom-poms in all of the remaining yarns to cover the large yarn C and yarn D sections of the wreath. Neaten the pom-poms, but leave

Make a crochet loop or attach a metal hook to the back of the wreath for hanging. We placed the loop so that the pom-poms section is at an angle, but you

could equally hang the wreath so that the pom-poms END position centrally at the bottom of the wreath. MINI WREATHS Attach yarn B, D or E to the curtain ring with a sl st, and work dc around the entire ring, inserting hook through the centre of the ring and pushing the stitches up to fit as many dc as you can around the ring to cover it densely. Join rnd with a sl st, then make 20ch, sl st back into bottom of chain to make a hanging loop. Fasten off. START

Make a mini pom-pom using the 2.5cm maker and attach to the wreath. We made a yarn E pom-pom for the yarn B mini wreath, a yarn C pom-pom for the yarn D mini wreath and a yarn D pom-pom for the END yarn E mini wreath. Hang on your tree!

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Specialising in hand dyed yarns

From a studio based in Glasgow, indie dyer Lisa Harland makes handmade ergonomic crochet hooks in a variety of styles and designs custom made to your specifications. As well as hooks, Lisa also creates beautiful hand dyed yarns in a stunning array of colours and other crochet goodies, accessories and notions for people who live for their love of yarn. Specialising in a range of different yarn clubs to suit all budgets, these monthly subscriptions are available on a no minimum sign up. With prices starting from just £9 there really is a club to suit everyone. For details about the full range of Yarn Clubs available please visit our Etsy store or email us at : [email protected]

Find us on Etsy: Fortheloveofyarnuk

www.fortheloveofyarn.co.uk

Home of The Yarn Lover adult colouring book

inside CROCHET QP updated QP.indd 2 IC84_39.indd 1

06/11/2016 22:49 08/11/2016 19:34

*Covermount gifts not available with digital versions

£34.99 FOR 12 MONTHS £19.99 FOR 6 MONTHS

Christmas Pom Wreaths ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

OUR PICK OF FANTASTIC

MATERIALS ● Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, 100% acrylic, 100g/136m/149yds Yarn A: Seafoam Blue 331 x 1 ball Yarn B: Washed Teal 332 x 1 ball Yarn C: Sky Blue 338 x 1 ball Yarn D: Tomato Red 31 x 1 ball Yarn E: Pistachio Green 324 x 1 ball ● 6mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Pom-pom makers in assorted sizes ● Small, sharp scissors ● Polystyrene wreath, 35cm/13¾in diameter ● Wooden curtain rings, 6.5cm/2½in diameter TENSION Work 12htr and 8 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 6mm hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension.

IDEAS THEY’LL MEASUREMENTS LOVE Large Wreath diameter: 35cm/14in. Mini Wreath diameter: 6.5cm/2½in.

Gorgeous gifts

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Claire is a textiles designer specialising in knitting and RETRO CHARM Pop your crafting bits and bobs into this crochet, constructing fabrics, utterly sweet little handmade bag. Comes in an array of pretty patterned fabrics! garments, creatures and £18 ❆ www.theochiltree.etsy.com accessories which are fun, quirky and modern. Find out more at www.montyknits.blogspot.com. We Love

HEART TO HEART

NOURISH THE SOUL

Spread the love this Christmas with a showstopping double heart shawl pin, beautifully handcrafted from sterling silver.

A thoughtful gift for eco-conscious crocheters, they’ll love the vibrant shades in the gorgeous hand-dyed Eco Cotton Nurturing Fibres range.

£59

PATTERN NOTES Work a long strip in the following stripe sequence until the pattern says otherwise: CUDDLE WORTHY You can’t get more indulgent than Loop Alpaca Two rows yarn Tweed, aA deliciously soft blend of natural and hand-dyed British alpaca fibre. Two rows yarn B❆ www.loopknittingshop.com £22.95 One row yarn C One row yarn D Two rows yarn E Two rows yarn A Two rows yarn B Two rows yarn E You can work the entire strip in

❆ www.jewellerybycallumkilts.com

£4.50

❆ www.gorgeousyarns.co.uk

SILVER SHEEP

BOHO ELEGANCE

For an extra-special gift, this solid silver bangle is topped with an adorable miniature herdy. The range includes a pendant, charm and earrings.

Dazzle at your next party with this woolwrapped shawl pin in vivid colours, handmade in Buenos Aires; it can also be worn in your hair.

£89

❆ www.herdy.co.uk

£22

❆ www.motuproprio.etsy.com

SUPER STORAGE

SWEET SHOP DELIGHTS

CRAFTY CONFECTIONS

Long-lasting, eco-friendly, fairtrade and in fantastic colours, these African market baskets are just the thing for yarn addicts!

Treat a friend to a sumptuously soft WYS Signature 4ply yarn, with 35% Bluefaced Leicester and in yummy candy-bright shades!

It’s hard to believe the items in this box (spot the ball of wool!) are made entirely of chocolate! Definitely one for the chocoholic crafter.

From £27

£6.99

❆ www.injabulo.com

❆ www.thedroppedstitch.co.uk

£19

❆ www.thechocolateworkshop.co.uk

24 Inside Crochet www.insidecrochet.co.uk 37

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Digital subscriptions start from as little as £19.99 for six months

IC#84_40[DigitalAd]SP.indd 36

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YOUR PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS START HERE BEGINNER

Natalia Cardigan

Nordic Tank Dress

EASY

INTERMEDIATE

Meredith Jumper

Super Skinny Scarf

Ruth Maddock

Sarra Mackenzie-Pilot

Rhian Drinkwater

Page 42

Page 46

Page 50

Tracey Todhunter

Delicata Wrap

Melissa Leapman

Snow Valley Tote

Page 53

Page 54

Page 56

Peasy Cowl

Cavendish Hat & Mitts Set

All-American Baby Blanket

Page 59

Page 60

Angel Tunic Page 70

Deborah Stuart

Jacinta Bowie

ADVANCED

NT Maglia

Carol Holding

Santa Hat

Rhian Drinkwater

Dream Cloud

Page 64

Page 67

Page 68

Dragonfly Wings Scarf

Fluffy Polar Bear

O’Tannenbaum!

Knot Garden

Page 73

Page 76

Tracey Todhunter

Red Sparrow Crochet

Liz Ward

Madeleine Kimberley Page 79

Zooeyzo

Amanda Perkins Page 83

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 41

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK, 100% wool, 50g/125m/137yds Yarn A: Aegean 112 x 10 (12, 13, 15, 16, 18) balls Yarn B: Volcano 107 x 2 balls ● 3.5mm and 4mm hooks ● Five buttons, 20mm/¾in TENSION Work 18 sts and 14 rows over pattern stitch to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook or size required to obtain tension. Work 18dc and 20 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Ruth studied fashion at Epsom Art School before starting her career as a knit and crochet designer. She has written for many UK magazines and is known for her stylish use of colour and texture. Visit her website at www.lupinandrose.co.uk. SPECIAL STITCHES Cluster (Cl): Worked over 3 sts; [yoh, insert hook in next st, yoh, draw yarn through and up 1cm/½in] three times, yoh and draw through all 7 loops. PATTERN NOTES When working Clusters insert hook in last st of previous Cluster. BODY Worked in one piece to armholes. Using 3.5mm hook and yarn B work 143 (153, 163, 173, 183, 193)ch. Row 1: 1ch (does not count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each ch to end – 143 (153, 163, 173, 183, 193)dc. Row 2: 1ch, dc to end. Rep row 2 three more times, inc 4 sts evenly across last row and change to yarn A on last pull through of last st – 147 (157, 167, 177, 187, 197) dc. START

Natalia Cardigan BY RUTH MADDOCK

Hook this stylish textured cardigan with pretty contrast trim.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.laughinghens.com

Using 4mm hook and yarn A, cont in patt as folls: Cluster Row: (WS) 2ch (counts as 1htr), Cl (see Special Stitches) over first 3dc, starting all subsequent clusters in last st of previous Cl cont as folls: [1ch, Cl]

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SHAPE NECK Next Row: Sl st across first 6 sts, 1ch, 19 (21, 23, 23, 23, 25)dc to end. Next Row: (Dec) Patt to last 3dc, htr2tog, turn – 17 (19, 21, 21, 21, 23) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc2tog, dc to end – 16 (18, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts. Rep last two rows once more then dec row again ending at neck edge – 11 (13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts. Work six (eight, eight, eight, eight, eight) rows without shaping, ending at neck edge. SHAPE SHOULDER Next Row: 1ch, 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8)dc, dc2tog. Fasten off. BACK With RS facing count 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts from Right Front and rejoin yarn with sl st to next st. Next Row: (RS) 1ch, dc2tog, 67 (73, 75, 81, 87, 93)dc, dc2tog, turn and work on these 69 (75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts as folls: ** Next Row: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in next dc, starting in same dc

28 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32)cm 11 (11, 11, 11¾, 11¾, 12½)in

RIGHT FRONT Next Row: (RS) 1ch, 31 (33, 35, 37, 37, 39)dc, dc2tog, turn and work on these 32 (34, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts as folls: Next Row: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in next dc, starting in same dc work Cl, cont Cl row to end. Next Row: (Dec) 1ch, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, turn – 30 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38) sts. Rep last two rows two (two, two, three, three, three) more times, then rep first of last two rows once more – 26 (28, 30, 30, 30, 32) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc to last st, turn (do not work last st) – 25 (27, 29, 29, 29, 31) sts. Work 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) rows without shaping, end with Cl row at neck edge.

48 (49.5, 51, 54, 56, 58)cm 18¾ (19½, 20, 21¼, 22, 22¾)in

to last st, 1htr in last st of previous Cl – 73 (78, 83, 88, 93, 98) Cl. Dc Row: (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each cl and ch to end – 147 (157, 167, 177, 187, 197)dc. Cluster and Dc rows form Cluster Pattern and are repeated. Cont in patt until work measures 28 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32)cm/11 (11, 11, 11¾, 11¾, 12½)in ending with a Cl row (WS).

43 (43, 45, 45, 46, 46)cm 17 (17, 17¾, 17¾, 18, 18)in

84 (90, 95, 101, 106, 112)cm 33 (35½, 37½, 39½, 41¾, 44)in

work Cl row to last st, work 1htr in last dc of last Cl, 1htr in last dc. Next Row: Sl st in first st, 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, turn – 65 (71, 73, 79, 85, 91) sts. Rep last two rows two (two, two, three, three, three) more times, then first row once more – 57 (63, 65, 67, 73, 79) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog – 55 (61, 63, 65, 71, 77) sts.** Work 20 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) rows without shaping, ending with a dc row. SHAPE SHOULDER Next Row: Sl st over next 4 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts, 1ch, dc2tog, 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8)dc. Fasten off. Count across centre 33 (35, 33, 35, 41, 43) sts and rejoin yarn with sl st to next st, 1ch, work 1dc back in same st, 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8)dc, dc2tog. Fasten off. LEFT FRONT With RS facing count 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts from Back and rejoin yarn with sl st to next st. Next Row: (RS) 1ch, dc2tog, 31 (33, 35, 37, 37, 39)dc, turn and work on these 32 (34, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts as folls: Next Row: Work Cl row, to last st, work 1htr in last dc of last Cl, 1htr in last dc. Next Row: 1ch, miss first st, dc2tog, dc to end – 30 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38) sts. Rep last two rows two (two, two, www.insidecrochet.co.uk 43

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions st, 2dc in last st, turn – 41 (45, 47, 49, 51, 53)dc. Rep these last six rows until there are 53 (57, 59, 61, 65, 69) sts. Cont in patt without shaping until work measures 43 (43, 45, 45, 46, 46)cm/17 (17, 17¾, 17¾, 18, 18) in, ending with Cl row. SHAPE TOP OF SLEEVE Next Row: Sl st across first 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts, 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts, dc2tog, turn – 47 (51, 51, 53, 55, 59) sts. Work as given from ** to ** of Back shaping – 33 (37, 37, 35, 37, 41) sts. Work 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15) rows in patt without shaping.

three, three, three) more times – 26 (28, 30, 30, 30, 32) sts. Next Row: Work Cl row to last st, work 1htr in last dc of last Cl, 1htr in last dc. Next Row: 1ch, miss first st, dc to end – 25 (27, 29, 29, 29, 31) sts. Work 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) rows without shaping, ending at armhole edge. SHAPE NECK Next Row: 1ch, dc to last 6 sts, turn – 19 (21, 23, 23, 23, 25) sts. Next Row: 2ch (does not count as first htr), htr2tog, work Cl row to end – 17 (19, 21, 21, 21, 23) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn – 16 (18, 20, 20, 20, 22) sts. Rep last two rows once more then first row again ending at armhole edge – 11 (13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts. Work six (eight, eight, eight, eight, eight) rows without shaping. SHAPE SHOULDER Next Row: Sl st over next 4 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) sts, 1ch, dc2tog, 5 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8)dc. Fasten off.

Next Row: Sl st in first st, 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, turn – 29 (33, 33, 31, 33, 37) sts. Next Row: Patt to end. Next Row: Sl st across first 2 sts, 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 4 sts, dc2tog, turn – 23 (27, 27, 25, 27, 31) sts. Next Row: 2ch, htr2tog, 1htr in next dc, starting in same dc work Cl, then work Cl row, to last 3dc, htr2tog, 1htr in last dc – 21 (25, 25, 23, 25, 29) sts. Next Row: Sl st across first 4 sts, 1ch, dc2tog, dc to last 6 sts, dc2tog, turn – 11 (15, 15, 13, 15, 19) sts. Next Row: 2ch, htr2tog, working in next dc work Cl, work Cl row to last 3dc, htr2tog, 1htr in last dc – 9 (13, 13, 11, 13, 17) sts. Next Row: Sl st across first 2 sts, 1ch, dc2tog, 1 (5, 5, 3, 5, 9)dc, dc2tog. Fasten off.

SLEEVES Using 3.5mm hook and yarn B, 37 (41, 43, 45, 47, 49)ch. Row 1: 1ch, 1dc in each ch to end – 37 (41, 43, 45, 47, 49)dc. Row 2: 1ch, dc to end. Rep row 2 three times more, inc 2 sts evenly across last row and change to yarn A on last pull through – 39 (43, 45, 47, 49, 51) dc.

MAKING UP Pin out to shape and press according to ball band instructions. Sew sleeve seams and shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes.

Work five rows in Cluster Patt as given for Back. Next Row: (Inc) 1ch, 2dc in first st, 1dc each Cl and ch to last

TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST BACK LENGTH SLEEVE

NECK BORDER With 3.5mm hook and yarn A, working from WS starting at Left Front neck work 29 (31, 31, 33, 33, 33)dc to shoulder, 35 (37, 35, 37, 43, 45)dc across Back, and 29 (31, 31, 33, 33, 33)dc to Right Front neck, changing to yarn B in last st worked – 93 (99, 97, 103, 109, 111) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc to end. Next Row: 1ch, 3 (2, 1, 4, 2, 4)dc, [5dc, dc2tog, 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6)dc] to end working 1dc in each of last 2 (1, 0, 3, 3, 3)dc – 85 (91, 89, 95, 101, 103) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc to end. Next Row: 1ch, 3 (2, 1, 4, 2, 4)dc, [5dc, dc2tog, 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)dc] to end working 1dc in each of last 2 (1, 0, 3, 3, 3)dc – 77 (83, 81, 87, 93, 95) sts. Next Row: 1ch, dc to end. Fasten off. BUTTONHOLE BAND Using 3.5mm hook and yarn B, 73 (73, 77, 81, 85, 89)ch. Next Row: 1ch, dc in each ch to end. Next Row: 1ch, dc to end. Next Row: 1ch, 3dc, [3ch, miss 3dc, 13 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17)dc] to last 6dc, 3ch, miss 3dc, 3dc. Next Row: 1ch, dc to end. Rep last row. Fasten off. BUTTON BAND Work as for Buttonhole Band omitting buttonholes. FINISHING Place RS of bands to RS of front edge and over sew into place, sew buttons in place to correspond with END buttonholes. Weave in ends.

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

81.5

86

91.5

96.5

101.5

106.5

cm

32

34

36

38

40

42

in

84

90

95

101

106

112

cm

33

35½

37½

39½

41¾

44

in

48

49.5

51

54

56

58

cm

18¾

19½

20

21¼

22

22¾

in

43

43

45

45

46

46

cm

17

17

17¾

17¾

18

18

in

44 Inside Crochet

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N E W K I T AVA I L A B L E F R O M S C H E E PJ E S T H I S F E S T I V E S E A S O N

Melting Snowflakes Winter Kit Designed by Atty van Norel www.atty-s.blogspot.nl

This luxurious kit features our incredibly soft Merino Soft yarns and hundreds of glass beads. The stunning design is available in 4 colourways, each named after a snowflake shape.

Makes a perfect gift! Check our website for stockists, WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM Scheepjes Snowflake Inside Crochet ad.indd 1

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Blacker Yarns Gotland DK, 100% wool, 50g/110m/119yds Shade: Turquoise x 12 (13, 15, 16, 18) balls ● 3.5mm (4mm, 4mm, 4mm, 4.5mm) hook YARN ALTERNATIVES This design would also work well in Rowan Felted Tweed DK. TENSION Work 19tr and 10 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension (see Pattern Notes). DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY An avid designer, gluten free soap maker and textile artist, Sarra has a passion for hand spinning and fibre production. Find her on Facebook at www. facebook.com/magpieandgoblin and see more of her patterns at www.ravelry.com/designers/ sarra-mackenzie-pilot.

Nordic Tank Dress BY SARRA MACKENZIE-PILOT

This cosy dress was inspired by warm woollens and jumper dresses, cable knitwear and chunky ribbing. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.blackeryarns.co.uk

SPECIAL STITCHES Raised treble back (rtrb): Yrh, insert hook from back to front around post of next st, yrh and draw loop, complete treble stitch as normal. Raised treble front (rtrf): Yrh, insert hook from front to back around post of next st, yrh and draw loop, complete treble stitch as normal. Raised double treble back (rdtrb): (Yrh) twice, insert hook from back to front around post of next st, yrh and draw loop, complete double treble as normal. Raised double treble front (rdtrf): (Yrh) twice, insert hook from front to back around post of next st, yrh and draw loop, complete double treble as normal Cable twist: Miss first four of six sts of Cable Pattern, rdtrf round each of fifth and sixth sts of Cable Pattern, 2tr in third and fourth sts of Cable Pattern, rdtrf around each of first and second sts of Cable Pattern. PATTERN NOTES Sizes S, M and L are all worked with a 4mm hook. For size XS, the pattern is worked as for S but with a 3.5mm hook, and for XL, the pattern is worked as L but with a 4.5mm hook. Numbers for all five

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20cm 8in 21 (21, 22, 23, 23)cm 8¼ (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9)in BACK START With 3.5mm (4mm, 4mm, 4mm, 4.5mm) hook work 88 (88, 96, 104, 104)ch. Foundation Row: (RS) 1tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in each ch to end, turn – 86 (86, 94, 102, 102)tr. Cont in rib patt as folls: Rib Row 1: 3ch (counts as first st here and throughout), rtrb (see Special Stitches) around next st, [2rtrf (see Special Stitches), 2rtrb] to end working last rtrb around 3ch, turn. Rib Row 2: 3ch, rtrf around next tr, [2rtrb, 2rtrf] to end working last rtrf around 3ch, turn. Rep last two rows three times, then rib row 1 again.

CABLE PATTERN Row 1: (RS) 3ch, 15 (15, 19, 19, 19)tr, [2rdtrf (see Special Stitches), 2tr, 2rdtrf (Cable Panel made over these 6 sts) 18 (18, 18, 22, 22)tr] to last 16 (16, 20, 20, 20) sts, tr to end, turn. Row 2: 3ch, 15 (15, 19, 19, 19)tr, [2rdtrb (see Special Stitches), 2tr, 2rdtrb, 18 (18, 18, 22, 22)tr] to last 16 (16, 20, 20, 20) sts, tr to end, turn. Row 3: 3ch, 15 (15, 19, 19, 19)tr, [Cable Twist (see Special Stitches), 18 (18, 18, 22, 22)tr] to last 16 (16, 20, 20, 20) sts, tr to end, turn. Row 4: As row 2. These four rows form Cable Pattern and are repeated. Cont in patt until work measures 50 (50, 52, 54, 54)cm/19¾ (19¾, 20½, 21¼, 21¼)in, ending with a WS row. SHAPE ARMHOLES Next Row: Sl st in next 6 (6, 6, 7, 7)tr, 3ch, patt to last 5 (5, 5, 6, 6)tr, turn – 76 (76, 84, 90, 90) sts. Next Row: (Dec) 3ch, tr2tog, patt

50 (50, 52, 54, 54)cm 19¾ (19¾, 20½, 21¼, 21¼)in

71 (71, 74, 77, 77)cm 28 (28, 29¼, 30½, 30½)in sizes are shown on the pattern for clarity. For sizes XS and XL do not attempt to match the tension above – go up or down one hook size from the size needed to achieve that tension.

92 (101, 110, 121, 130)cm 36 (39, 43, 47, 51)in

to last 3tr, tr2tog, 1tr, turn. Rep last row three more times – 68 (68, 76, 82, 82) sts. Next Row: Patt to end. Rep last two rows two (two, two, three, three) times more – 62 (62, 68, 74, 74) sts. Cont in patt until work measures 21 (21, 22, 23, 23)cm/8¼ (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9)in from start of armhole shaping ending with a WS row.

14 (14, 14, 18, 18)tr, work Cable Panel over next 6 sts, 2tr, work Cable Panel over next 6 sts, 14 (14, 14, 18, 18)tr, work Cable Panel over next 6 sts, tr to end. Work Cable Patterns as for Back, including Cable Panel for Front. Cont in patt until work measures 16 (16, 17, 18, 18)cm/6¼ (6¼, 6¾, 7, 7)in from start of armhole shaping, ending in a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS Next Row: Sl st in next 15 (15, 17, 19, 19) sts, 3ch, patt to last 14 (14, 16, 18, 18) sts. Fasten off.

SHAPE LEFT NECK Next Row: Patt to 7 (7, 7, 9, 9)tr before central Cable Panels, tr2tog, 1tr, turn. Next Row: 3ch, tr2tog, patt to end, turn. Next Row: 3ch, patt to last 3 sts, tr2tog, 1tr. Cont shaping as above until 14 (14, 16, 18, 18) sts rem.

FRONT Work in rib as for Back. Work row 1 of Cable Pattern to end of first 6 st Cable Panel,

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Cont until work measures same as Back to shoulder. Fasten off. SHAPE RIGHT NECK With RS facing, re-join yarn 5 (5, 5, 7, 7)tr from central Cable Panel, 3ch, tr2tog, patt to end, turn. Next Row: Patt to last 3 sts, tr2tog, 1tr, turn. Next Row: 3ch, tr2tog, patt to end. Complete as for Left Neck reversing shaping as set in last two rows. Fasten off. COLLAR With WS facing, join shoulder seams and sides matching tr rows, then turn work so that RS is facing. Join yarn at right shoulder edge of neck. Next Row: 3ch, work 1tr in every tr and 2tr around every tr of shaping decrease around neck (the tall upright edge) to end, sl st in top of 3ch, turn. Make sure you have an odd number of sts. Next Row: 3ch, rib as for Back to last st, sl st in top of 3ch, turn. Cont in rib until Collar measures 20cm/8in. Fasten off.

CUFFS With RS facing rejoin yarn at lower seam. Next Row: 3ch, work 1tr in every tr at base of armhole and 2tr around each tr up the sides, join with sl st in 3ch, turn. (Make sure you have an odd number of sts not counting 3ch) Next Row: 3ch, rib as for Back to last st, sl st in top of 3ch. Work three more rows in rib. Fasten off. FINISHING Turn work inside out, and weave in ends. Turn work to RS and gently block END into shape. Do not press.

XS TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST FULL LENGTH

S

M

L

XL

81–86

91–97

102–107

112–117

122–127

cm

32–34

36–38

40–42

44–46

48–50

in

92

101

110

121

130

cm

36

39

43

47

51

in

71

71

74

77

77

cm

28

28

29¼

30½

30½

in

COLLAR

20

20

20

20

20

cm

LENGTH

8

8

8

8

8

in

48 Inside Crochet

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Art, craft, textile, and general interest courses for adults, held at Missenden Abbey, Buckinghamshire Crochet for All with Diana Bensted, 28-29 January 2017 www.missendenschoolofcreativearts.co.uk

Open Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00–5.00 and Thursday 10.45–4.15

STOCKIST OF BRITISH AND FAIR-TRADE YARN IN NATURAL FIBRES INCLUDING: Baa Ram Ewe // Blacker // Erika Knight // Jamieson & Smith // John Arbon // Manos del Uruguay // Whistlebare // West Yorkshire Spinners Fine Fettle Fibres | Studio 6 | Gallery 45 45 Main Street | Felton | Northumberland | NE65 9PP Tel: 01670 600001 www.finefettlefibres.uk

IC84_49.indd 1

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● MillaMia Naturally Soft Aran, 100% Merino wool, 50g/80m/87yds Yarn A: Stone 202 x 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) balls Yarn B: Ochre 240 x 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) balls ● 5.5mm hook ● Four lockable stitch markers YARN ALTERNATIVES Any aran-weight wool yarn would work well for this design. TENSION Work 15htr and 12 rounds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 5.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Rhian is a crochet and knitting designer and the editor of Inside Crochet. She likes practical projects that fit into your wardrobe, and tries to design garments and accessories that can be worn every day. SPECIAL STITCHES Foundation half treble (fhtr): 2ch, yoh, insert into first ch, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through 1 loop (makes foundation chain), yoh, pull through 3 remaining loops on hook. *Yoh, insert into foundation chain of previous stitch, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through 1 loop, yoh, pull through 3 remaining loops on hook; repeat from * until you have desired number of sts. Rhtrf: Insert hook around post of next st from front to back to front, yoh, pull through loop, complete htr as normal.

Meredith Jumper BY RHIAN DRINKWATER

This cosy, flattering jumper is just the thing for cuddling up in on Boxing Day, in an on-trend colour combination. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.lovecrochet.com

Rhtrb: Insert hook around post of next st from back to front to back, yoh, pull through loop, complete htr as normal. Crab stitch: Work as double crochet but in the opposite direction, from left to right along the row. Insert hook in next stitch to the right and yoh, draw loop through to the front, yoh and draw through both loops to complete stitch. PATTERN NOTES The body and sleeves of this jumper are worked first, up to the

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The majority of this jumper is worked in the round, in spirals so there is no joining “seam” running up the side. For each piece, 1dc is worked before beginning the htr spiral, to give a gentler slope at the start. Working in spirals does mean there can be a “jog” when changing colour for the stripes. To avoid this, work the last stitch in your first colour as normal, completing the stitch rather than working the final yoh in the new colour. Now insert your hook under the back loop only of the next stitch to be worked into, yoh with the new colour, pull through, and pull through the loop of the old colour on your hook. Now work into the next stitch as normal with the new colour, and continue to work around. When you get back to the stitch you worked through the back loop of, work your htr into the front loop only. This pulls the stripe into line and avoids the jog. Do this every time you work a colour change. Because of the nature of spiralled crochet, the first stitch of each round will slowly creep to the side as you work. To account for this, when working shaping or stripes, do not calculate their placement by counting the number of stitches in a round, or marking the first stitch with a stitch marker. Instead lay the fabric out flat, and use the yarn tail from the start of the crochet as a marker of the actual edge of the fabric. Then look straight up from that, and take the stitch in line with it as the first stitch of the round for shaping/stripe purposes. 2ch does not count as stitch throughout. BODY With 5.5mm hook and yarn A, work 132 (140, 148, 154, 162)fhtr (see Special Stitches). Sl st to first htr to join into round. Rnd 1: 2ch, (rhtrf, rhtrb (see Special Stitches)) around, sl st to START

53.5 (54, 54.5, 55, 56)cm 21 (21¼, 21½, 21¾, 22)in

underarms. The three pieces are then joined, and the yoke of the jumper worked as one piece to the neckline.

89 (94, 99, 104, 109)cm 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)in

join – 132 (140, 148, 154, 162) sts. Rnds 2 & 3: As rnd 1. Rnd 4: 1dc, htr to end. Do not join. Rnds 5 & 6: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 7: *2htr, htr2tog, 58 (62, 66, 69, 73)htr, htr2tog, 2htr; repeat from * – 128 (136, 144, 150, 158) sts. Rnds 8–11: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 12: *2htr, htr2tog, 56 (60, 64, 67, 71)htr, htr2tog, 2htr; repeat from * – 124 (132, 140, 146, 154) sts. Rnds 13–16: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 17: *2htr, htr2tog, 54 (58, 62, 65, 69)htr, htr2tog, 2htr; repeat from * – 120 (128, 136, 142, 150) sts. Rnds 18–23: Htr to end, working in a spiral.

Rnds 30–33: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 34: *2htr, 2htr in next st, 58 (62, 66, 69, 73)htr, 2htr in next st, 2htr; repeat from * – 132 (140, 148, 154, 162) sts. Rnds 35–41: Htr to end, working in a spiral.

42.5cm/16¾in

You should finish having just worked three rnds in yarn B. Fasten off. SLEEVES Make two With 5.5mm hook and yarn A, work 32 (32, 32, 32, 34)fhtr.

Rnd 24: *2htr, 2htr in next st, 54 (58, 62, 65, 69)htr, 2htr in next st, 2htr; repeat from * – 124 (132, 140, 146, 154) sts. Rnd 25: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 26: Change to yarn B (see Pattern Notes). Htr to end, working in a spiral. From now on, change colour every three rnds. Rnds 27 & 28: Htr to end, working in a spiral. Rnd 29: *2htr, 2htr in next st, 56 (60, 64, 67, 71)htr, 2htr in next st, 2htr; repeat from * – 128 (136, 144, 150, 158) sts. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 51

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Sl st to first htr to join into round. Rnd 1: 2ch, (rhtrf, rhtrb) around, sl st to join – 32 (32, 32, 32, 34) sts. Rnds 2 & 3: As rnd 1. Rnd 4: 1dc, htr to end. Do not join. Next 4 (3, 2, 1, 1) Rnd(s): Htr to end, working in a spiral. Next Rnd: Work to 3 sts before end of rnd, 2htr in next st, 2htr – 33 (33, 33, 33, 35) sts. Next Rnd: 2htr, 2htr in next st, htr to end – 34 (34, 34, 34, 36) sts. Repeat last six (five, four, three, three) rows, four (five, six, eight, eight) more times – 42 (44, 46, 50, 52) sts. Work straight in htr until 33 rnds have been worked since ribbing, or to 12.5cm/5in less than desired Sleeve length. Change to yarn B. Work three rnds. Change to yarn A. Work three rnds. Change to yarn B. Work three rnds. Change to yarn A. Work three rnds. Change to yarn B. Work three rnds. Fasten off.

YOKE Use four lockable stitch markers (two each side) to join the Sleeves on each side of the Body, allowing 10 sts between markers on each side for the underarms. Use these stitch markers to visually gauge the “seams” of where each section begins and ends as you work up. Join yarn A at back left of jumper, ready to start on Left Sleeve. Work 1dc, then htr around the jumper in this order: Left Sleeve, Front, Right Sleeve, Back – 176 (188, 200, 214, 226) sts. Now continue to work in a spiral as before. S TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST LENGTH SLEEVE

Next Rnd: Htr around Left Sleeve, Front and Right Sleeve, tr across Back. From this point on, on every other round work the Back sts as trebles rather than half trebles. This raises up the back neck of the jumper. Next Rnd: 1htr, htr2tog, (htr to 3 sts from next “seam”, htr2tog, 2htr, htr2tog) three times, htr to 3 sts from end of rnd, htr2tog, 1htr – 168 (180, 192, 206, 218) sts. Repeat this rnd seven more times – 112 (124, 136, 150, 162) sts. Next Rnd: (3htr, htr2tog) around

M

L

XL

– 90 (99, 109, 120, 130) sts. Next Rnd: Htr around. Next Rnd: (3htr, htr2tog) around – 72 (79, 87, 96, 104) sts. Rep last two rnds two more times – 46 (50, 56, 62, 66) sts. Work 0 (1, 2, 2, 3) more rnd(s) in plain htr. Next Rnd: Work in crab stitch (see Special Stitches) around. Fasten off. FINISHING Using yarn B, sew together underarm seams. Weave in all ends and END wet block jumper.

XXL

86.5

91.5

96.5

101.5

106.5

cm

34

36

38

40

42

in

89

94

99

104

109

cm

35

37

39

41

43

in

53.5

54

54.5

55

56

cm

21

21¼

21½

21¾

22

in

42.5

42.5

42.5

42.5

42.5

cm

16¾

16¾

16¾

16¾

16¾

in

52 Inside Crochet

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MATERIALS ● Blue Moon Hand Dyed Natural Indigo, 51% silk/29% Merino wool/20% sea cell, 100g/445m/487yds Shade: Hand dyed Natural Indigo x 1 skein ● 2.75mm hook ● 20 buttons YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any 400m skein of wool rich sock weight or 4ply yarn for similar results. TENSION Work 7 pattern repeats and 9 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in after blocking, using 2.75mm hook or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished scarf is 12 x 180cm/ 4¾ x 70in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Tracey Todhunter is a crochet and knitwear designer specialising in homewares and small accessories. Visit her website at www.grannycoolcrochet.com.

Super Skinny Scarf BY TRACEY TODHUNTER

This easy-hook scarf takes just one ball of sock yarn and would make a perfect Christmas gift for that stylish friend.

SPECIAL STITCHES Bobble: (Yoh, insert hk in stitch, yoh and pull up loop, (yoh and pull through 2 loops) twice, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hk). Offset bobble: (1 bobble, 2ch, 1tr) in next st. PATTERN NOTES This scarf is designed to use the full skein of yarn. Make the flowers first so you can crochet the scarf without fear of running out of yarn. Natural dyes such as Indigo will occasionally leave a residue on your hands as you work – this will easily wash off.

FLOWERS Make ten Make 6ch, join with sl st to form ring. Rnd 1: 1ch (does not count as a stitch), 10dc in ring, sl st in first dc – 10dc. Rnd 2: (5tr in next dc, sl st in next dc) five times, ending with sl st in same place as first sl st – five petals. Work a length of chain approximately 10–12.5cm/4–5in long then fasten off yarn, leaving long tail for sewing to scarf. START

SCARF Make 30ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hk, 1dc in each ch to end, turn – 29dc. Row 2: 4ch, 1tr in first dc, 1ch, miss 3dc, [1 offset bobble (see Special Stitches) in next dc, 1ch] six times, 1 bobble (see Special Stitches) in last st, turn – 6 offset bobbles. Row 3: 4ch, 1tr in top of bobble, 1ch, [1 offset bobble in next 2ch-sp, 1ch] six times, 1 bobble in 4ch-sp, turn – 6 offset bobbles. Rep row 3 until scarf measures 180cm/70in or desired length. Last Row: Work 29dc evenly across row, working in top of bobbles and ch-sps. Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. FINISHING Sew buttons to centre of each flower (one on each side). Space flowers evenly along each edge of scarf and sew in place. Weave in ends. To block, soak in tepid water for 15 minutes, squeeze END out excess water and allow to dry flat.

ADD TO THE STASH from Buy this beautiful hand-dyed yarn www.tartsart.co.uk

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 53

IC#84_53[SockYarnScarf]SPRD2.indd 53

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Plymouth Yarn Kid Gloss Hand Dyed, 72% super kid mohair/28% mulberry silk, 25g/210m/229yds Yarn A: Blacks 0113 x 6 balls ● Plymouth Yarn Kid Gloss, 72% super kid mohair/ 28% mulberry silk, 25g/210m/229yds Yarn B: Chinchilla 0011 x 6 balls ● 3.5mm hook ● Stitch marker YARN ALTERNATIVES These yarns can be difficult to find in the UK – try Rowan Kidsilk Haze or Debbie Bliss Angel as alternatives. TENSION Work 24 sts and 20 rows in pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished wrap is 178 x 68.5cm/ 70 x 27in after blocking.

Delicata Reversible Wrap BY MELISSA LEAPMAN

Light as air, this wrap is composed of an unusual stitch pattern that looks great on both sides.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Melissa Leapman is one of the world’s most widely published crochet and knitwear designers, with more than 1,000 designs in print. She has written dozens of knitting and crochet books, and also teaches classes and workshops at shows, events and yarn shops. View more of her designs at www.ravelry.com/ designers/melissa-leapman. PATTERN NOTES This design is made sideways and uses two colours: yarn A and yarn B. This pattern is made of two interlocking layers of fabric, each a different colour. Each row is worked in the stitches or spaces on the last row of the same colour. You will never be working yarn A in a stitch or space worked with yarn B. WRAP With yarn A, 425ch. Place a marker in eighth ch from the hook. Foundation Row 1: (RS) Tr in the tenth ch from the hook, tr in the next ch, *3ch, miss the next 3ch, tr in each of the next 2ch; rep from * across, ending with 3ch, miss the next 3ch, tr in the last ch. Remove START

This stunning wrap is taken from Melissa Leapman’s Designer Crochet Accessories (Creative Publishing International, £12.99). Turn to page 11 for our review.

54 Inside Crochet

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the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel. Do not turn. Foundation Row 2: (RS) Working in front of the last row, join yarn B with a sl st to the eighth ch (the marked ch), 6ch, working behind the last row, tr in the same ch as where the sl st was made, working behind the last row, tr in the centre ch of the next 3ch of the Foundation Ch, 3ch, *working in front of the last row, tr in the same ch of the Foundation Ch as the last tr made, working in front of the last row, tr in the centre ch of the next 3ch of the Foundation Ch, 3ch, working behind the last row, tr in the same ch of the Foundation Ch as the last tr, working behind the last row, tr in the centre ch of the next 3ch of the Foundation Ch, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working in front of the last row, tr in the same ch of the Foundation ch as the last tr. Remove the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel.

Row 1: (WS) Place the A loop back onto the hook, 6ch, turn. Working behind the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch, *working in front of the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch, working behind the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working in front of the last B row, tr in the last ch-sp of the previous A row. Remove the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel. Do not turn. Row 2: (WS) Keeping the loop in front of the last A row, place the B loop back onto the hook and 6ch, working in front of the last A row, tr in the first 3ch-sp of the previous row worked with B, working in front of the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp on the previous B row, 3ch, *working behind the last A row, tr in the same 3ch-sp as the last tr made, working behind the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp of the previous B row, 3ch, working

in front of the last A row, tr in the same sp as the last tr made, working in front of the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp on the previous B row, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working behind the last A row, tr in the same sp as the last tr on previous B row. Remove the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel. Row 3: (RS) Place the A loop back onto the hook, 6ch, turn. Working in front of the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch, *working in behind the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch, working in front of the last B row, tr in each of the next 2tr worked with A, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working behind the last B row, tr in the last ch-sp of the previous A row. Remove the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel. Do not turn. Row 4: (RS) Rep row 2. Row 5: (WS) Rep row 3. Row 6: (WS) Keeping the loop in front of the last A row, place the B loop back onto the hook and 6ch, working behind the last A row, tr in the first 3ch-sp of the previous row worked with B, working behind the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp on the previous B row, 3ch, *working in front of the last A row, tr in the

same 3ch-sp as the last tr made, working in front of the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp of the previous B row, 3ch, working behind the last A row, tr in the same sp as the last tr made, working behind the last A row, tr in the next 3ch-sp on the previous B row, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working in front of the last A row, tr in the same ch-sp as the last tr on previous B row. Remove the loop from the hook, and make it large so it doesn’t unravel. Row 7: (RS) Rep row 1. Row 8: (RS) Rep row 6. Rows 9–134: Rep rows 1–8, 15 times, then rep rows 1–6. Row 135: (RS) Place yarn A back onto the hook, 1ch, working behind the last B row, dc in the first tr on the previous A row, 3ch, working in front of the last B row, dc in each of the next 2tr on the previous A row, 3ch, *working behind the last B row, dc in each of the next 2tr on the previous A row, 3ch, working in front of the last B row, dc in each of the next 2tr on the previous A row, 3ch; rep from * across, ending with working in behind the last B row, dc in the last 3ch-sp. Fasten off. FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to finished measurements.

end

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 55

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Drops Alaska, 100% wool, 50g/70m/76yds Yarn A: Light Grey Mix 03 x 5 balls Yarn B: Red 10 x 5 balls ● 4.5mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Two strips of corrugated plastic, 40 x 4cm/15¾ x 1½in ● Two lengths of cotton rope ● Magnetic button YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any aran-weight 100% wool yarn for this design. TENSION Work 15 sts and 8 rows in Tapestry tr to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 4.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Width: 43cm/17in. Height (excluding handles): 35½cm/14in. Handle length: 55cm/21½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY NT Maglia is an Italian crochet designer working on beautiful Lake Como. Her colourful designs combine traditional stitches with unusual yarns and fanciful embroidery patterns. Visit her website at www.ntmagliacrochet.com. SPECIAL STITCHES Tapestry tr: Work treble crochet carrying thread of different yarn colour. Change colour by working last yoh of tr in next colour. Cross tr: Miss 1 st, 1tr in next st, 1tr in missed st, working in front of tr previously made.

Snow Valley Tote BY NT MAGLIA

A perfect tote bag for Christmas shopping, featuring a traditional winter design and cute pom-poms.

PATTERN NOTES Bag is worked in Tapestry tr in the round starting from the bottom. Edging is folded over the plastic strips and sewn to inside of bag. Handles are worked separately, folded over cotton rope and then inserted and sewn in edging. BODY Work all rnds in Tapestry tr (see Special Stitches), changing colour as shown in Chart. With 4.5mm hook and yarn B, 44ch. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as tr START

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

56 Inside Crochet

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1

2

3

4

5

27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6

Cross Treble Handle position

throughout), 2tr in fourth ch from hook, 1tr in next 42ch, 6tr in last ch. Cont working on opposite side of foundation ch, 1tr in each of next 42ch, 3tr in last ch. Join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 96 sts. Rnd 2: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 46tr, 3tr in each of next 2tr, 3tr in next tr, 46tr, 3tr in last tr, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 104 sts. Rnd 3: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 50tr, 3tr in each of next 2tr, 3tr in next tr, 50tr, 3tr in last tr, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 112 sts. Rnd 4: 3ch, 2tr in first tr, 54tr, 3tr in each of next 2tr, 3tr in next tr, 54tr, 3tr in last tr, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 120 sts. Rnd 5: 3ch, 1tr in first tr, 58tr, 2tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in next tr, 58tr, 2tr in last tr, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 124 sts. Rnd 6: 3ch, 1tr in first tr, 60tr, 2tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in next tr, 60tr, 3tr in last tr, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn – 128 sts. Rnds 7–27: 3ch, 1tr in each tr around, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn.

Special Stitches), 2ch, miss 2 sts, 13 Cross tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 17 Cross tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 13 Cross tr, 2ch, miss 2 sts, 8 Cross tr, dc in next dc, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn. Rnds 29–32: With yarn A 3ch, 1tr in each tr around, join to beg of rnd with sl st, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 28: (Handles insertion) 3ch (counts as 1tr), 8 Cross tr (see

With yarn A embellish with three pom-poms.

Light Grey Red

HANDLES Make two With yarn A and 4.5mm hook, 80ch. Rows 1–7: Dc in each st across, turn. Fold Handles in half lengthwise over cotton rope and slip stitch edges together. Fasten off. FINISHING Insert ends of handles in holes made in rnd 28 and secure on inside. Fold top edge around, with WS tog, over strips of corrugated plastic. Thread yarn needle with length of yarn A and sew edge to inside of bag. Weave in ends.

IC#84_56-57[FairIsleBag]SPRD.indd 57

www.insidecrochet.co.uk 57 Red

Light Grey

Handle position

Cross Treble

END

07/11/2016 12:42

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09/11/2016 10:35

MATERIALS ● King Cole Riot Chunky, 70% acrylic/30% wool, 100g/134m/147yds Shade: Cool 660 x 1 ball ● 6mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any self-striping, V2 - showing round starts in middle chunky weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. Note: The cowl uses one full ball of King Cole Riot Chunky. If substituting yarn you may require more or fewer balls than stated. TENSION Work 5 V sts and 7 rows in pattern to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 6mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Finished cowl measures 68cm/27in in circumference, and is 18cm/7in deep.

Peasy Cowl

V2 - showing round

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY 4 Coming from a long line of 3 talented crafters and needlewomen who invented their 2 own designs, it was only a matter of time before Deborah did the 1 same. She takes inspiration from starts the in glorious middlecountryside around her home in the Vale of Glamorgan and enjoys designing

items that are quick, practical and stylish. SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS V stitch: (1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in ch-sp. PATTERN NOTES As this design is worked in the round, the chart shows the start of each round in the middle of the chart rather than the side, to clearly show the join to the starting chain made each round. COWL Using 6mm hook, make 102ch, join with sl st in first ch taking care not to twist. Work in rounds, without turning as foll: Rnd 1: 4ch, 1tr in same st (counts as first V st), miss 2ch, *(1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next ch, miss 2ch; rep from * to end of rnd, join with sl st in third ch of 4ch – 34 V sts. Rnd 2: Sl st in next ch-sp, 4ch, 1tr in same st (counts as first V st), *(1tr, 1ch, 1tr) in next ch-sp; rep from * to end of rnd, join with sl st in third ch of 4ch – 34 V sts. Rnds 3–12: Rep rnd 2 a further ten times – 12 rnds worked in total. Fasten off. START

FINISHING Weave in ends and block lightly to measurements.

END

BY DEBORAH STUART

This striking cowl is super easy to hook and ideal for beginners.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this colourful yarn from www.wool4less.co.uk

slip stitch

4

chain stitch (ch)

3

treble crochet (tr)

2

V-stitch

1

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS Beanie ● West Yorkshire Spinners Bluefaced Leicester Aran, 100% wool, 50g/83m/90yds Yarn A: Teal x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn B: Snowdrop x 1 ball Mitts ● West Yorkshire Spinners Bluefaced Leicester Aran, 100% wool, 50g/83m/90yds Yarn A: Teal x 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) Yarn B: Snowdrop x 1 ball (Note: To make the set you will need approximately 2 (2, 3, 3) balls of yarn A, and 1 (1, 2, 2) ball(s) of yarn B) ● 4mm & 4.5mm hooks ● Locking stitch marker YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any aran weight wool rich yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 15dc and 16 rnds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Work 10rtrf and 10 rnds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

Cavendish Hat & Mitts Set BY TRACEY TODHUNTER

This stylish set makes the perfect quick-hook gift, suitable for all ages and super-fast to work.

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.wyspinners.com

MEASUREMENTS Beanie Length from brim to top: 20 (21, 24, 25)cm/7¾ (8¼, 9½, 9¾)in. Circumference: 48 (54, 60, 66)cm/ 19 (21¼, 23½, 26)in. Mitts Length from cuff to top: 14 (14, 16, 18)cm/5½ (5½, 6¼, 7)in. Circumference: 15 (16, 18, 20)cm/ 6 (6¼, 7, 7¾)in. All sizes are measured flat after blocking. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Tracey Todhunter is passionate about living locally and working with British wools. She shares more of her work at her website, www.grannycoolcrochet.com. SPECIAL STITCHES Foundation treble (ftr): 3ch, yoh, insert hk in first ch, yoh, pull through, yoh pull through 1 loop (makes foundation ch), yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh pull through remaining 2 loops on hk, *yoh, insert hook in foundation ch of

previous st, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through 1 loop, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh pull through remaining 2 loops on hk; repeat from * until you have correct number of stitches. Raised treble back (rtrb): Yoh, insert hook from back to front to back again around post of stitch from previous row, yoh and complete treble as usual. Raised treble front (rtrf): Yoh, insert hook from front to back to front again around post of stitch from previous row, yoh and complete treble as usual. PATTERN NOTES The main body of hat and wrist warmers are worked in spirals. At the end of each round, do not join and do not turn. The ribbed brim and cuff are worked in rounds, join as indicated in pattern at the end of each round. When changing colours, fasten off yarn and weave in ends as you go. Instructions are given for striped versions. You can make each item in a solid colour if you prefer or change stripe sequence to suit your yarn. Mark the last st of each round with a locking stitch marker, remove and replace on each round. BEANIE Crown shaping With 4.5mm hook and yarn A, make 6ch and join with sl st to form ring. Rnd 1: 6dc into ring. Rnd 2: [2dc in each dc] six times – 12dc. Rnd 3: [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc] six times – 18dc. Rnd 4: [1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next dc] six times – 24dc. Rnd 5: [1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next dc] six times – 30dc. Rnd 6: [1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next dc] six times – 36dc. Continue to increase 6dc evenly on each round (by working more dc before increase) until you have 48 (54, 60, 66)dc. Next Rnd: 1dc in each dc around – 48 (54, 60, 66)dc. START

Sizes M & L only Next Rnd: 1dc in each dc around.

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Sizes XS & M Only Rnd 7: Dc in next st and pm to indicate beg of rnd, dc around, do not join, pattern continues in spirals. Sizes S & L Only Rnd 7: Dc2tog and pm to indicate beg of rnd, dc around, do not join, pattern continues in spirals – 21 (23, 27, 29)dc. All Sizes Rnds 8–12: Dc around (remove and replace marker on each rnd). Sizes M & L Only Rnd 13: Dc around. All Sizes THUMB SHAPING Rnd 1: 9 (10, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – 23 (25, 29, 31)dc. Rnd 2: 9 (10, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – 25 (27, 31, 33)dc. Rnd 3: 9 (10, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 5dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – 27 (29, 33, 35)dc. Rnd 4: 9 (10, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 7dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – 29 (31, 35, 37)dc.

All Sizes Fasten off yarn A.

join with sl st in top of 3ch. Rnds 3–6: As rnd 2.

BODY Join yarn B to any dc and work four rnds in dc, fasten off yarn B. Join yarn A to any dc and work four rnds in dc, fasten off yarn A. Work 12 more rounds in stripe sequence.

Size M & L only Rnds 7 & 8: As rnd 2.

Fasten off yarn B and continue in yarn A for all sizes. Work one (two, three, four) rnd(s) in dc, sl st into next dc, do not turn. BRIM Change to 4mm hook. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in each dc around, join with sl st to top of 3ch – 48 (54, 60, 66)tr. Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as first rtrb), 2rtrf (see Special Stitches), *1rtrb (see Special Stitches), 2rtrf; rep from * to end of round,

Rnd 5: 9 (10, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 9dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – 31 (33, 37, 39)dc. Sizes M & L Only Rnd 6: - (-, 12, 13)dc, 2dc in next st, 11dc, 2dc in next st, dc to end – - (-, 39, 41)dc. All Sizes Next Rnd: 11 (12, 14, 15) dc, miss 9 (9, 11, 11)dc, dc in next st, dc to end – 22 (24, 28, 30)dc. Continue in dc for five (five, six, six) rnds, sl st in last dc. Fasten off yarn. CONTRAST TRIM With 4mm hook, join yarn B in any dc and work two rnds in dc. Last Rnd: (Optional) Sl st in each dc around. Fasten off yarn. THUMB Rnd 1: With yarn B and 4mm hook, join yarn to thumb where it meets the hand, 1dc in each dc to end – 9 (9, 11, 11)dc. Rnd 2: 1dc in each dc to end. Fasten off yarn B. END Weave in ends and block

All Sizes Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. Use remaining yarn to make pom-pom and attach to hat after blocking. MITTS Rnd 1: With 4mm hook and yarn A, make 21 (24, 27,30)ftr (see Special Stitches) and join with sl st to form ring. Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as first rtrb), 2rtrf, *1rtrb, 2rtrf; rep from * to end of round, join with sl st to top of 3ch. Rnds 3–6: As rnd 2. Note: Work rnds 3 & 4 in yarn B if desired. Change to 4.5mm hook. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 61

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, 198g/338m/370yds Yarn A: True Blue 1814 x 3 skeins Yarn B: Holly Berry 1909 x 2 skeins Yarn C: White 1001 x 2 skeins ● 3.75mm hook ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES Red Heart With Love can be difficult to get hold of in the UK. Any light aran weight yarn should work well here. TENSION Work 17 sts to measure 10cm/4in using 3.75mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Work each square to measure 14cm/5½in using 3.75mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. Work each strip to measure 20.5 x 118cm/8 x 46½ using 3.75mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. To make a tension swatch, work as Square to end of rnd 3 – 36tr, 12 1ch-sps. Swatch should measure 7 x 7cm/2¾ x 2¾in.

All-American Baby Blanket BY CAROL HOLDING

Deck the nursery in stars and stripes with this super snuggly baby blanket!

This festive blanket is taken from Granny Square Baby Afghans by Carol Holding (Leisure Arts, £5.99), available from www.thegmcgroup.com. Turn to page 11 for our review.

MEASUREMENTS Finished Blanket: 91.5 x 128.5cm/36 x 50½in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Carol is a prolific designer who has written several books of baby and blanket patterns, including Granny Square Baby Afghans and Square-by-Square Granny Afghans. She lives in South Carolina with her twin sister. SPECIAL STITCHES Rtrtrf: Yoh three times, insert hook from front to back around post of st indicated (fig 1), yoh and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) four times. PATTERN NOTES When instructed to join with a dc, begin with a slip knot on the hook. Insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yoh and pull up a loop, yoh and draw through both loops on hook.

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When instructed to join with a tr, begin with a slip knot on the hook. Yoh, holding loop on hook, insert hook in stitch or space indicated, yoh and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), (yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. SQUARE Make 32 With yarn B, 4ch; join with sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: (RS) 3ch (counts as first tr, now and throughout), 2tr in ring, 1ch, (3tr in ring, 1ch) three times; join with sl st to first tr – 12tr, four 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Note: Loop a short piece of yarn around any stitch to mark rnd 1 as right side. START

Rnd 2: With RS facing, join yarn A with tr in any 1ch-sp, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, miss next 3tr, * (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next 1ch-sp, miss next 3tr; repeat from * two times more, join with sl st to first tr – 24tr, four 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 3: With RS facing, join yarn C with tr in any 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, miss next 3tr, 3tr in sp before next tr (fig 2), 1ch, miss next 3tr, * (3tr, 1ch) twice in next 1ch-sp, miss next 3tr, 3tr in sp before next tr, 1ch, miss next 3tr; repeat from * two times more, join with sl st to first tr – 36 tr and 12 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 4: With RS facing, join yarn B with tr in any corner 1ch-sp; * work rtrtrf (see Special Stitches) around third tr of 3tr group one rnd below (before corner ch), (tr, 1ch, tr) in same corner sp as last tr made, work rtrtrf around first tr of next 3tr group one rnd below (after corner ch), tr in same corner sp as last tr made, 1ch, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) twice †, tr in next corner 1ch-sp; repeat from * two times more, then repeat from * to † once, join with sl st to first tr – 48 sts, 16 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 5: With RS facing, join yarn A with tr in any corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, working in sts and in chs, miss next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch, (miss next tr, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch) twice, miss next 2 sts, * (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, working in sts and in chs, miss next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch, (miss next tr, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch) twice, miss next 2 sts; repeat from * two times more,

join with sl st to first tr – 60tr, 20 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 6: With RS facing, join yarn C with tr in any corner 1ch-sp; 1ch, 3tr in same sp, 1ch, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) four times, * (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) four times; repeat from * two times more, 2tr in same sp as first tr, join with sl st to first tr – 72tr, 24 1ch-sps. Fasten off leaving a long end for joining. JOINING Thread yarn needle with long end. With WS together and working through both loops on both pieces, whipstitch two Squares together (fig 3). Join remaining Squares into four Strips, each six Squares long. BORDER Rnd 1: With RS facing and working across length of Strip, join yarn A with tr in first corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, * 3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch, work rtrtrf around first tr of 3tr group one rnd below next 1ch-sp, tr in 1ch-sp, miss next tr one rnd below, work rtrtrf around next tr, [miss next tr, tr in next tr, work rtrtrf around first tr of 3tr group one rnd below next 1ch-sp, tr in 1ch-sp, miss next tr one rnd below, work rtrtrf around next tr] twice, 1ch, 3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch †, 3tr in next joining, 1ch, miss next 3tr on next Square; repeat from * six times more, then repeat from * to † once, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, repeat from * to † once ‡, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, repeat from * to ‡ once, join with sl st to first tr – 372 sts, 76 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With RS facing, join yarn B with tr in first corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, † (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) twice, (miss next 3 sts, 3tr in next tr, 1ch) twice, * (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) four times, (miss next 3 sts, 3tr in next tr, 1ch) twice; repeat from * six times more, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) twice, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) twice, (miss next 3 sts, 3tr in next tr, 1ch) twice, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) twice †, (3tr,

FIG 1

front

back

FIG 2

FIG 3

1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, repeat from † to † once, join with sl st to first tr – 348tr, 116 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 3: With RS facing, join yarn A with tr in first corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, working in tr and in chs across length of Strip, * miss next 2tr, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch, (miss next tr, tr in next 3 sts, 1ch) across to within 2tr of next corner 1ch-sp, miss next 2tr †, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner sp; repeat from * two

times more, then repeat from * to † once; join with sl st to first tr – 360tr, 120 1ch-sps. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY With wrong sides of long edges together and working through both loops on both pieces, whipstitch Strips together. EDGING Rnd 1: With RS facing and working across length of outer Strip, join yarn A with tr in first corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in www.insidecrochet.co.uk 65

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

same sp, 1ch, † miss next 2tr, tr in next tr, 1ch, (tr in next 3tr, 1ch) across to within 3tr of next corner 1ch-sp, tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 2tr, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, miss next 2tr, tr in next tr, 1ch, (tr in next 3tr, 1ch) seven times, * tr in next 3tr and in next joining, (tr in next 3tr, 1ch) eight times; repeat from * two times more, tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 2tr †, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, repeat from † to † once; join with sl st to first tr – 536tr, 176 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 2: With RS facing, join yarn B with tr in first corner 1ch-sp; (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) in same sp, 1ch, † miss next 1ch-sp, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 1ch-sp, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) across to within two 1ch-sps of next corner 1ch-sp, miss next 1ch-sp, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 1ch-sp, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner sp, miss next 1ch-sp, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 1ch-sp, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) seven times, miss next 3tr, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, [(3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) eight times, miss next 3tr, 3tr in next tr, 1ch] twice, (3tr in next 1ch-sp, 1ch) seven times, miss next 1ch-sp, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, miss next 1ch-sp †, (3tr, 1ch) twice in next corner 1ch-sp, repeat from † to † once, join with sl st to first tr – 534tr, 178 1ch-sps. Fasten off. Rnd 3: With RS facing, join yarn A

with dc in first corner 1ch-sp, dc in same sp, † working in tr and chs across long edge, * (dc in next 7 sts, miss next st) twice, dc in next 8 sts, miss next st; repeat from * seven times more, dc in next 7 sts, 4dc in next corner 1ch-sp; working in tr and chs across short edge, dc in next 5 sts, miss next st, (dc in next 8 sts, miss next st) 15 times, dc in next 6 sts †, 4dc in next corner 1ch-sp; repeat from † to † once, 2dc in same corner sp as first dc; join with sl st to first dc – 644dc. Do not fasten off.

Errata

CORRECTIONS IN BOLD

SARA JUMPER ISSUE 82 page 42 Back Two rows before Armhole Shaping. Next Row: 3ch, 2tr in next st, tr to 2 sts from end, 2tr in next st, 1tr, turn – 74 (78, 82, 86, 90) sts.

Rnd 4: 1ch, dc in same st as joining and in each dc around; join with sl st to first dc. Fasten off. Rnd 5: With RS facing, miss first 2dc (same st as joining and next dc) and join yarn C with dc in next dc; dc in next dc, † miss next 2dc, 6tr in next dc, miss next 2dc, (dc in next dc, miss next 2dc, 6tr in next dc, miss next 2dc) 29 times, dc in next 2dc, miss next dc, 6tr in next dc, miss next dc, dc in next dc, miss next 2 dc, 6tr in next dc, (miss next 2dc, dc in next dc, miss next 2dc, 6tr in next dc) 21 times, miss next dc, dc in next dc, miss next dc, 6tr in next dc, miss next 2dc †, dc in next 2dc, repeat from † to † once, join with END sl st to first dc. Fasten off.

ISLINGTON SCARF ISSUE 45 page 42 The chart for Square G (Large Bobble Flower Granny) is missing rnd 5. The pattern text is correct.

We have all our patterns checked professionally and try our hardest to ensure all pattern text is correct at time of going to press. Unfortunately mistakes do occasionally occur and any errata that we are aware of can be found at www.insidecrochet.co.uk/errata. Please do let us know if you find any mistakes by emailing [email protected]. The result of the finished project will vary depending on the yarn used. We always recommend swatching before beginning a new crochet project and using the yarn suggested for best results. However, if you decide to use an alternative, ensure you swatch thoroughly to achieve the correct tension provided in the pattern. All patterns are for personal use only, no pattern or part of this magazine may be reproduced and redistributed without prior consent from Tailor Made Publishing Ltd.

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MATERIALS ● Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake DK, 100% polyester, 25g/85m/92yds Yarn A: Milky 630 x 1 ball ● Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran, 100% acrylic, 100g/184m/201yds Yarn B: Pillar Red 214 x 1 ball ● 5mm & 6.5mm hooks ● Pom-pom maker (optional) YARN ALTERNATIVES You can substitute any aranweight acrylic yarn for the body of the hat. For the brim and pom-pom, try Patons Fairytale Cloud DK. TENSION Work 15htr and 11.5 rnds in yarn B to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size needed to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Brim height: 8.5cm/3¼in. Top of brim to tip: 36cm/14¼in. Hat circumference: 55cm/21½in.

Santa Hat BY RHIAN DRINKWATER

Hook this super-simple hat to bring a festive touch to any occasion!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy these cheery yarns fro www.lovecrochet.com

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Rhian is a crochet and knitting designer and the editor of Inside Crochet. She likes practical projects that fit into your wardrobe, as well as fun designs the whole family will love. PATTERN NOTES The Sirdar Snuggly Snowflake yarn can be tricky to work with, as the “fluffiness” of it makes the stitches very difficult to see. If you struggle, try using a larger hook, but be wary of the stitches getting too “gappy”. If you are unable to count your stitches, stop periodically to check that the thickness of the brim is consistent, and that you have not accidentally increased or decreased the width. Body of hat is worked in joined rounds. Do not turn at the end of each round – work the entire hat with RS facing. BRIM With yarn A and 6.5mm hook, 12ch. Row 1: Htr in third ch from hook (initial 2ch does not count as htr START

throughout Brim), htr to end, turn – 10htr. Row 2: 2ch, htr to end, turn. Rep row 2 until Brim is 56cm/22in long, or right length to fit comfortably around head. Turn Brim 90 degrees and work in dc along long edge, then use dc to seam the two short edges together, dc around other long edge and fasten off. BODY With yarn B and 5mm hook, join yarn to one side of Brim. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as first htr throughout Body), htr around Brim, sl st to 2ch to join – 66 sts. Note: Depending on circumference of Brim, you may have more or fewer stitches here. If you have more, work a few decs evenly on next rnd to bring stitch count to 66; if you have less, miss out some decs on rnd 11 to get to correct count. Rnds 2–10: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Rnd 11: 2ch, 8htr, htr2tog, (9htr, htr2tog) to end, sl st to 2ch to join – 60 sts. Rnds 12–14: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Rnd 15: 2ch, 7htr, htr2tog, (8htr, htr2tog) around, sl st to 2ch to join – 54 sts. Rnds 16 & 17: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Rnd 18: 2ch, 6htr, htr2tog, (7htr, htr2tog) around, sl st to 2ch to join – 48 sts. Rnds 19 & 20: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Cont to work in this pattern (one dec rnd followed by two plain rnds) working one less htr between htr2togs on each dec rnd, until 12 sts rem. Next Two Rnds: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Next Rnd: 2ch, (htr2tog) around, miss last htr – 6 sts. Next Rnd: 2ch, htr around, sl st to 2ch to join. Fasten off and break yarn. Weave yarn tail through the last round and pull tight. FINISHING Make a pom-pom from yarn A and securely attach to tip of hat.

END

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

Dream Cloud BY ZOOEYZO

This adorable dream cloud would be a perfect present for a newborn baby, and is easy to hook in a weekend.

MATERIALS ● Hoooked RibbonXL, 80% recycled cotton/ 20% other recycled fibres, 250g/120m/131yds Yarn A: White x 2 spools Yarn B: Black x 1 spool Yarn C: Pink x 1 spool (optional) (Note: Small amounts only needed of yarns B & C) ● 10mm hook ● Yarn needle ● Toy stuffing TENSION Exact tension is not essential for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Finished cloud measures approximately 49cm/19¼in across, and 25cm/10in high at the highest point. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Zooeyzo is a Dutch crochet designer who has created many adorable patterns in Hoooked yarns. Visit her website (in Dutch) at www.zooeyzo.nl.

START

CLOUD With yarn A, make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: 6dc into the ring – 6 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc in every dc – 12 sts. Rnd 3: [1dc, 2dc in next st] around – 18 sts. Rnd 4: [2dc, 2dc in next st] around – 24 sts. Rnd 5: [3dc, 2dc in next st] around – 30 sts. Rnds 6–8: Dc around. Rnd 9: (3dc, dc2tog) around – 24 sts. Rnd 10: 4dc, [3dc, 2dc in next st] four times, 4dc – 28 sts. Rnd 11: 4dc, [3dc, 2dc in next st] five times, 4dc – 33 sts. Rnd 12: 4dc, [4dc, 2dc in next st] five times, 4dc – 38 sts. Rnd 13: 11dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 11dc – 43 sts. Rnds 14–18: Dc around. Rnd 19: 11dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 11dc – 38 sts. Rnd 20: 15dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 15dc – 42 sts. Rnd 21: 17dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 17dc – 46 sts.

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Rnd 22: 19dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 19dc – 50 sts. Rnds 23–29: Dc around. Rnd 30: 19dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 19dc – 46 sts. Rnd 31: 17dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 17dc – 42 sts. Rnd 32: 18dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 18dc – 40 sts. Rnd 33: 17dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 17dc – 38 sts. Rnd 34: 16dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 16dc – 36 sts. Rnd 35: 15dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 15dc – 34 sts. Rnd 36: 14dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 14dc – 32 sts. Rnd 37: 13dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 13dc – 30 sts. Rnd 38: 12dc, dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog, 12dc – 28 sts. Rnd 39: [6dc, 2dc in next st] three times, 7dc – 31 sts. Rnd 40: [7dc, 2dc in next st] three times, 7dc – 34 sts. Rnd 41: 5dc, [1dc, dc2tog] eight times, 5dc – 26 sts. Fill the cloud evenly with stuffing.

READER OFFER! Buy your yarn from www.hoooked.co.uk and save 15 per cent on your order when you quote Get-Hoooked-84. Offer ends 31 December 2016.

Rnd 42: 4dc, [1dc, dc2tog] six times, 4dc – 20 sts. Rnd 43: [2dc, dc2tog] around – 15 sts. Rnd 44: [1dc, dc2tog] around – 10 sts. Pull the leftover thread through the back loop of the 10 remaining dc and pull the thread to close opening. Fasten off with a sl st. FINISHING With yarn B, stitch two eyes onto the cloud. Position the eyes lower down and slightly to the right for a humble and cute look! CHEEKS (OPTIONAL) Make two With yarn C, make an adjustable ring. Rnd 1: 6dc into the ring – 6 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc in every dc around – 12 sts. Fasten off with a sl st. Sew the cheeks onto the END cloud, just below the eyes. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 69

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● Wool And The Gang Sugar Baby Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca, 50g/116m/127yds Yarn A: Lipstick Red x 6 (6, 7, 8) balls Yarn B: Snow White x 2 (2, 3, 3) balls ● 3mm hook ● 3.5mm hook for sizes 5–6 & 7–8 (motif only) ● Stitch markers ● Yarn needle ● Five seed pearl beads ● Two round pearl beads, 3mm YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any light DK yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 21tr and 10 rnds to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 3mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Jacinta has worked in crochet, knitting and fashion design for almost 30 years, including working with yarn companies such as Hayfields, Rowan and Sirdar. Visit her website at www. knitweardesignjbowie.co.uk. SLEEVES Make two Using 3mm hook and yarn A, loosely make 40 (44, 48, 52)ch, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 1tr in each of next 39 (43, 47, 51)ch, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 40 (44, 48, 52)tr. Rnds 2 & 3: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 39 (43, 47, 51)tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn. Rnd 4: 3ch, 2tr in same st, 39 (43, 47, 51)tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 42 (46, 50, 54)tr. Rep rnds 1–4 a further three (four, five, six) times – 48 (54, 60, 66)tr. Work two (four, six, six) rnds straight. START

Angel Tunic

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this super-soft yarn from www.woolandthegang.com

BY JACINTA BOWIE

The fashion for family Christmas jumpers is getting bigger and brighter each year. This style can have the Angel motif added at Christmas and be worn as a beautiful cosy tunic the rest of the time.

Next Row: Sl st in ea of next 3 (4, 5, 5) sts, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 41 (45, 49, 55)tr, fasten off – 42 (46, 50, 56)tr. Set sleeves aside at this point until body is ready for yoke to be worked in one piece.

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BODY Using 3mm hook and yarn A, make 130 (144, 152, 160)ch, join with sl st in first ch to form a ring. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 1tr in ea of next 129 (143, 151, 159)ch, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 130 (144, 152, 160)tr. Rnd 2: 3ch, 1tr in ea st around, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn. Rep rnd 2 a further 12 (14, 16, 18) times.

B

C

A A 60 (66, 70, 74) cms B 38 (41, 43, 45) cms C 21 (26.5, 29, 31.5) cms

A: 60 (66, 70, 74)cm/24 (26, 28, 29½)in B: 38 (41, 43, 45)cm/15 (16, 17, 18)in C: 21 (26.5, 29, 31.5)cm/8 (10½, 11½, 12½)in

Next Row: Sl st in ea of next 3 (4, 5, 5) sts, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 58 (63, 65, 69)tr, fasten off. Miss next 6 (8, 10, 10) sts, rejoin yarn, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 58 (63, 65, 69)tr, turn – 118 (128, 132, 140)tr in total. Yoke Rnd 1: (Joining Rnd) 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), 58 (63, 65, 69)tr, pm, 42 (46, 50, 56)tr around first sleeve, pm, 59 (64, 66, 70)tr across back of body, pm, 42 (46, 50, 56)tr around second sleeve, pm, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 202 (220, 232, 252)tr. Rnd 2: 3ch, move marker up, miss 1 st, 1tr in ea st to 2 sts before next marker, *miss 1 st, move marker up, 1tr, miss 1 st, 1tr in ea st to 2 sts before next marker; rep from * three times, miss 1 st, 1tr in next st, sl st to top of 3ch, turn – 8 sts dec. Rep rnd 2 a further 10 (11, 12, 13) times – 114 (124, 128, 140)tr. Size 2–3yrs Only Rnd 13: 3ch, [miss 1 st, 5tr] 18 times, miss 1 st, 4tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 95tr. Rnd 14: 3ch, [3tr, miss 1 st, 1tr] 18 times, 3tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 76tr. Size 4–5yrs Only Rnd 14: 3ch, [miss 1 st, 3tr] 30 times, 3tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 94tr. Rnd 15: 3ch, 5tr, [miss 1 st, 5tr] 14 times, 4tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 80tr. Size 5–6yrs Only Rnd 15: 3ch, [miss 1 st, 6tr] 18 times, 1tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 110tr. Rnd 16: 3ch, [miss 1 st, 5tr] 18 times, 1tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 92tr.

Size 7–8yrs Only Rnd 16: 3ch, miss 1 st, 5tr, [miss 1 st, 6tr] 19 times, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 120tr. Rnd 17: 3ch, [miss 1 st, 5tr] 19 times, miss 1 st, 4tr, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn – 100tr. All Sizes Fasten off yarn A and join yarn B. Next Rnd: Work 1ch, 1dc in ea st to end, join with sl st in first dc – 76 (80, 92, 100)dc. Rejoin yarn A and alternate with yarn B across the next rnd as foll: Next Rnd: Using yarn B, 3ch, [1trA, 1trB] to last st, 1trA, join with sl st in top of 3ch, turn. Fasten off yarn A and cont with yarn B only: Next Rnd: Using yarn B, 1ch (does not count as st), 1dc in ea st to end, join with sl st in first dc, turn. Fasten off yarn B. HEM PANEL Note: The hem is worked sideways. Using 3mm hook and yarn A, loosely make 25ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook (missed 3ch counts as 1tr), 1tr in ea ch to end, turn – 22 sts. Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), miss 1 st, 1tr in ea st to end, 1tr in sp between 3ch and first tr of row below, turn – 22 sts. Rep row 2 until piece measures correct length to go around the hem of the body, ensuring the final row count is a multiple of two. Fasten off.

laisy daisy s seed round

** Before joining the hem panel ends, rejoin yarn B at the side of the second row of trebles. Work 21ch as surface crochet across the row, inserting hook between each treble to make the chain. At the end of the row, work 3 regular chain to get you up to the next alt row. Work in the same way back in the opposite direction along the following alt row. 3ch. Rep these two ch rows with 3 link chains until the end of the work. Fasten off but do not break off the yarn. Using yarn A, join beg and end of Hem panel with mattress stitch. Work edging as foll: Rnd 1: Using yarn B, 1ch, 1dc into side of tr, then working around the hem, make 2dc across side of each tr and 3ch to end, join with sl st first dc. Fasten off.

laisy daisy stitch seed pearl round pearl Rnd 2: Rejoin yarn B directly above a ch-line, [6ch, sl st directly above next ch-line] to end, join with sl st in beg of rnd. Rnd 3: Work 1ch, [2dc, 2htr, 2dc] in ea 6ch-sp of prev rnd, join with sl st in beg of rnd and fasten off. Rep rnds 1–3 on opposite side of Hem panel. ** CUFFS Make two Using 3mm hook and yarn A, loosely make 14ch. Row 1: 1tr in fourth ch from hook (missed 3ch counts as 1tr), 1tr in ea ch to end, turn – 12tr. Row 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr throughout), miss 1 st, 1tr in ea st to end, 1tr in sp between 3ch and www.insidecrochet.co.uk 71

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

first tr of row below, turn – 12tr. Rep row 2 a further 18 (20, 22, 24) times. Using yarn B, work edging as given for Hem panel from ** to **. ANGEL MOTIF Note: For first and second sizes use a 3mm hook and for the third and fourth sizes use a 3.5mm hook. HEAD Using yarn B, make a slip knot and place on the hook. Rnd 1: 1ch, work 8dc into slip knot, sl st to top of 2ch to close round. Rnd 2: 1ch, 1dc in same sp, [1dc in next sp, 2dc in next sp] three times, 1dc in next sp, join with sl st in top of 1ch – 12dc. Rnd 3: 2ch, 1dc in same sp, 2dc in ea sp to end, join with sl st in top of 2ch – 24dc. Rnd 4: 2ch, 1dc in ea sp to end, join with sl st in top of 2ch.

Now work in rows as foll: Row 1: 2ch, [1dc in next sp] five times, turn – 6dc. Row 2: 2ch, 1dc in same sp, [2dc into next sp] four times, turn – 10dc. Row 3: 4ch, [miss next sp, 1dc in next sp] five times, turn. Row 4: 6ch, work 4dc in 4ch-sp of prev row, 6ch, join with sl st in beg of row 2. Cont and work the Arms as foll: Row 5: 28ch, join with sl st in end of row 2, turn. Row 6: 1ch, 30dc in 28ch-sp, turn. Row 7: [8ch, sl st in 6ch of row 4] five times, 8ch, sl st to end of row 2, turn. Row 8: Sl st down 4ch of row 7, 4dc in same 8ch-sp, [8dc in 8ch-sp] four times, 4dc in 8ch-sp, turn. Row 9: [8ch, sl st between fourth and fifth st of 8dc] four times, 8ch, sl st to sp between sl st and first dc, turn.

Row 10: 1ch, 8dc in each 8ch-sp, turn. Row 11: Sl st in ea of next 4dc, [6ch, 1tr in third, fourth, fifth and sixth dc] three times, 6ch, sl st to fourth dc, turn. Row 12: * 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc in 6ch-sp, [1dc in next sp] three times; rep from * a further three times, 1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc in 6ch, turn. Row 13: [3ch, 1dc in next sp] to end. Fasten off leaving a long tail. HAIR Rejoin yarn B to the top of head. [28ch, sl st into the top of the head] six times. Fasten off. HALO Using yarn B, make 18ch and join with a sl st in first ch. Rnd 1: 1ch, 24dc into ring, join with sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

MAKING UP Sew the underarm seams with mattress stitch. Sew the motif onto the centre front of the body with stab stitch. Sew the arms, hands and hair in position. Stab stitch the halo in place above the angel. Join the hem band and cuffs to sit over the body and sleeves. Oversew to body from the back of the garment. Weave in all ends and block garment to measurements given. Sew two round 3mm beads on the face as eyes, one seed pearl below as a mouth and four seed pearls on the skirt panel, as shown in diagram. Embroider the hem of the angel with lazy daisy END stitches across the hem of the motif.

2–3

4–5

5–6

7–8

YRS

53

58.5

63.5

67

cm

21

23

25

26½

in

ACTUAL CHEST 60

66

70

74

cm

24

26

28

29½

in

38

41

43

45

cm

15

16

17

18

in

21

26.5

29

31.5

cm

8

10½

11½

12½

in

TO FIT CHEST

LENGTH SLEEVE SEAM

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Dragonfly Wings Scarf BY ESME FROM RED SPARROW CROCHET

Brighten a dull day with this pretty scarf, and wear those pom-poms with pride!

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this pure wool yarn from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MATERIALS ● Drops Karisma DK, 100% wool, 50g/100m/109yds Yarn A: Navy Blue 17 x 3 balls Yarn B: Blue Turquoise 60 x 3 balls ● 4.5mm hook ● Pom-pom maker, 8cm/3¼in diameter ● Yarn needle YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any DK or aran weight yarn to achieve a similar effect; use acrylic if you prefer it to wool. TENSION Exact tension is not necessary for this pattern. MEASUREMENTS Length approx: 190cm/75in. Width approx: 21cm/8in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Esme is a crochet addict, teacher and mum. Follow her crochet musings (and meet Hank Deluxe her helpful cat) at www. facebook.com/redsparrow crochet. Turn to page 98 to read our interview with Esme. PATTERN NOTES Use a large pom-pom maker to make two pom-poms in yarn A. Final treble from each row is worked into top of 3ch at start of previous row.

SCARF With yarn A, loosely work 297ch. Row 1: Miss first 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout), 1tr in fourth ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn – 295tr. Row 2: 3ch, 4tr, [6ch, miss 5 sts, 5tr] to end, turn. Row 3: 3ch, 4tr, [6ch, miss 6ch-sp, 5tr] to end, turn. Row 4: 3ch, 4tr, *(2ch, 1dc around both ch-sps from two previous rows tog, 2ch), 5tr; rep from * to end of row, turn. Row 5: 3ch, 4tr, [6ch, miss ch-dc-ch section, 5tr] to end, turn. Row 6: Repeat row 3. Row 7: Repeat row 4, changing to yarn B on last pull through of last st. Cont in yarn B. Rows 8–16: As rows 5–7, three times. Row 17: 3ch, 4tr, [5ch, miss ch-dc-ch section, 5tr] to end, turn. Row 18: 3ch, 4tr, [1tr in each of next 5ch, 5tr] to end. Fasten off. START

FINISHING With a piece of yarn and a yarn needle, sew across each short end of the scarf and pull in to gather. Sew on a pom-pom at END each end. Weave in all ends. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 73

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions MATERIALS ● James C Brett Flutterby Chunky, 100% polyester, 100g/175m/192yds Yarn A: White B1 x 2 balls Yarn B: Blue B20 x 1 ball ● Small amount of grey yarn for nose ● 7mm hook ● Two stitch markers ● Toy stuffing ● Two black shank buttons, 25mm/1in YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any fluffy, chunky weight yarn to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Work 10dc and 12 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 7mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. MEASUREMENTS Polar bear measures 50cm/19¾in tall and 30cm/11¾in wide from ear to ear. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Liz is passionate about amigurumi, creating patterns that are cute and quirky but always easy to understand. Read Liz’s blog at www.amigurumi barmy.blogspot.co.uk. PATTERN NOTES This pattern is mainly worked in a spiral in the round. Do not join rounds but use a stitch marker or piece of contrasting wool to mark the end of a round. HEAD Using yarn A, make an adjustable ring and work 6dc into the ring. Place marker in first dc of rnd to indicate beg of rnd and move up as you work – 6 sts. Rnd 1: 2dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: [3dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 15 sts. Rnd 3: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 4: [4dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 18 sts. Rnds 5 & 6: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 7: [5dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 21 sts. Rnd 8: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 9: [6dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 24 sts. Rnd 10: [7dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 27 sts. Rnd 11: 2htr in ea of first 9 sts, 18dc – 36 sts. START

Fluffy Polar Bear BY LIZ WARD

This big softy will be a huge hit this festive season! Made in the traditional amigurumi style using fluffy chunky yarn, this polar bear is simple to make and perfect to cuddle. ADD TO THE STASH Buy this soft and cuddly yarn from www.blacksheepwools.com 76 Inside Crochet

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Rnd 12: [11dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 39 sts. Mark this rnd with a different stitch marker for eye placement.

place on the sides of the head.

Rnd 21: [Dc2tog, 7dc] to end – 48 sts. Rnd 22: [Dc2tog, 6dc] to end – 42 sts. Rnd 23: [Dc2tog, 5dc] to end – 36 sts. Rnd 24: [Dc2tog, 4dc] to end – 30 sts. Rnd 25: [Dc2tog, 3dc] to end – 24 sts. Rnd 26: [Dc2tog, 2dc] to end – 18 sts. Rnd 27: [Dc2tog, 1dc] to end – 12 sts. Stuff the head now.

BODY Using yarn A, make an adjustable ring and work 6dc into the ring. Place marker in first dc of rnd to indicate beg of rnd and move up as you work – 6 sts. Rnd 1: 2dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: [3dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 15 sts. Rnd 3: [4dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 18 sts. Rnd 4: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 5: [5dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 21 sts. Rnd 6: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 7: [6dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 24 sts. Rnd 8: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 9: [7dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 27 sts. Rnd 10: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 11: [8dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 30 sts. Rnd 12: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 13: [9dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 33 sts. Rnd 14: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 15: [10dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 36 sts. Rnd 16: 1dc in ea st to end.

Rnd 28: [Dc2tog] to end – 6 sts. Fasten off and sew closed the opening at the back of the head. Weave in and cut off any loose ends. Sew two 25mm/1in black buttons on the marked rnd, placing them nine stitches apart and drawing the yarn tight to anchor them into the head.

Rnd 17: [Dc2tog, 10dc] to end – 33 sts. Rnd 18: [Dc2tog, 9dc] to end – 30 sts. Rnd 19: [Dc2tog, 3dc] to end – 24 sts. Rnd 20: [Dc2tog, 2dc] to end – 18 sts. Stuff the body now.

EARS Make two Using yarn A, make an adjustable ring and work 6dc into the ring. Place marker in first dc of rnd to indicate beg of rnd and move up as you work – 6 sts. Rnd 1: 2dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: [1dc in first st, 2dc in next st] to end – 18 sts. Rnd 3: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 4: [2dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 24 sts. Rnd 5: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 6: [3dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 30 sts. Rnds 7 & 8: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 9: Dc2tog, 28dc – 29 sts. Rnd 10: Dc2tog, 27dc – 28 sts. Fasten off. Press flat with your hand. Pinch the bottom edge together and sew in

Rnd 21: [Dc2tog, 1dc] to end – 12 sts. Rnd 22: [Dc2tog] to end – 6 sts. Fasten off and sew closed the hole at the bottom of the body. Sew head onto body.

Rnd 13: [12dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 42 sts. Rnd 14: [13dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 45 sts. Rnd 15: [14dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 48 sts. Rnd 16: [15dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 51 sts. Rnd 17: [16dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 54 sts. Rnds 18–20: 1dc in ea st to end.

next st, 5htr, 3htr in next st, 6dc – 27 sts. Rnd 5: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 6: 1dc, dc2tog, 8dc, dc2tog, 6dc, dc2tog, 6dc – 24 sts. Rnd 7: 11dc, htr3tog, 3htr, htr3tog, 4dc – 20 sts. Rnd 8: 3dc, dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 3dc – 16 sts. Rnd 9: 8dc, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 3dc – 14 sts. Rnd 10: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 11: Dc2tog, 1dc in ea st to end – 13 sts. Rnds 12–16: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 17: Dc2tog, 1dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnds 18–26: 1dc in ea st to end. Fasten off and stuff well. ARMS Make two Using yarn A, make an adjustable ring and work 6dc into the ring. Place marker in first dc of rnd to indicate beg of rnd and move up as you work – 6 sts. Rnd 1: 2dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: [1dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 18 sts. Rnd 3: [5dc, 2dc in next st] to end – 21 sts. Rnds 4 & 5: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 6: [Dc2tog, 5dc] to end – 18 sts. Rnd 7: [Dc2tog, 4dc] to end – 15 sts.

Rnd 8: [Dc2tog, 3dc] to end – 12 sts. Rnds 9–13: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 14: Dc2tog, 1dc in ea st to end – 11 sts. Rnds 15–19: 1dc in ea st to end. Rnd 20: Dc2tog, 1dc in ea st to end – 10 sts. Rnds 21–24: 1dc in ea st to end. Fasten off and stuff well. SCARF Using yarn B, make 4ch. Row 1: 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in ea of next 2ch, turn – 3 sts. Change to yarn A. Row 2: 1ch (does not count as st), 3dc – 3 sts. Rows 3–46: Rep row 2 changing yarn every two rows to create a stripe pattern. Fasten off. Knot lengths of yarn at either end of the scarf to form the tassels. Cut to required size MAKING UP Sew arms and legs onto body. Use grey yarn to work the face as follows: Sew a large V for the nose then over work with long stitches to fill in the shape. Work a stitch down from the middle of the nose and diagonally out each side for the mouth. END Tie scarf around neck to finish.

LEGS Make two Using yarn A, make an adjustable ring and work 6dc into the ring. Place marker in first dc of rnd to indicate beg of rnd and move up as you work – 6 sts. Rnd 1: 2dc in ea st to end – 12 sts. Rnd 2: 2dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 3htr in next st, 2htr, 3htr in next st, 2dc, 2dc in last st – 18 sts. Rnd 3: 2dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 1htr, 2htr, 4htr, 2htr in next st, 1htr, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc – 22 sts. Rnd 4: 2dc in first st, 8dc, 3htr in www.insidecrochet.co.uk 77

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ISSUE 85

On sale 22 December

bright and beautiful See in the New Year in glorious colour!

NEXT MONTH FREE!

12MM CROCHET HOOK

NEW TRICKS

Must-make projects to try, new techniques, new yarns and more

CHILDREN’S CORNER

Get hooking for little ones with our kids’ designs and nursery favourites

Unmissable patterns

CHUNKY LACE SCARF PLAID COWL TUNISIAN CUSHION BLOSSOM HAT

DON’T MISS OUT For subscription details, please turn to page 74

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MATERIALS ● King Cole Big Value Chunky, 100% acrylic, 100g/152m/167yds Shade: Seaspray 557 x 3 balls ● 3.5mm hook ● Toy stuffing ● Yarn needle ● Circle of strong cardboard, 16.5cm/6½in diameter ● Cardboard tube, 34cm/13½in long ● Two circles of strong cardboard, 11cm/4¼in diameter ● Two circles of black felt, 11cm/4¼in diameter ● Cardboard tube, 9cm/3½in long ● Oddments of black DK weight yarn for tree trunk ● Double-sided tape (optional) ● Glue gun YARN ALTERNATIVES You can use any chunky weight acrylic to achieve a similar effect. TENSION Exact tension is not crucial for this pattern. Crochet tightly to make the body of the tree solid. MEASUREMENTS 47cm/18½in tall (without trunk).

O’Tannenbaum!

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Madeleine’s life-long crochet and knitting passion led her to undertake a Hand Knit Design Course where she learned to interpret her ideas into designs. Find her on Ravelry at www.ravelry.com/ designers/madeleine-kimberley.

BY MADELEINE KIMBERLEY

Glorious pine trees, standing proud and tall, bring a smile to people’s faces everywhere, especially during the Christmas season.

PATTERN NOTES Follow instructions for joining rounds for making branches. Join all other rounds with a sl st in top of ch, unless otherwise instructed. On some rounds, start position of round changes. Note stitch counts for each round. TREE BASE Foundation Row: 6ch, sl st to first ch to form ring. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 14tr in ring, sl st to third ch to join – 15tr. Rnd 2: 4ch and 1dtr into base of first ch (counts as 2dtr), 2dtr in next 14 sts – 30dtr. Rnd 3: 3ch, 1tr [2tr in next st, 1tr] around – 44tr. Rnd 4: 5ch, [2trtr in next st, 1trtr] to last st, 2trtr in last st – 66trtr. Rnd 5: 4ch, 2dtr, 2dtr in next st, [3dtr, 2dtr in next st] to last 2 sts, 2dtr – 82dtr. START

ADD TO THE STASH Buy this great value yarn from www.deramores.com

LOWER TREE BODY Rnds 6 & 7: 3ch, tr around. The edge will now fold up. Tree Branches for Lower Tree Body: *12ch, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in next three ch, 8ch, miss next st, close branch into a loop by tightly working 1dc in next st; rep from * around. Join round by working last branch with sl st in base of first branch (under first ch), unless otherwise instructed. Rnd 8: Make 41 branches as above. Rnd 9: Working tightly, *1ch, holding branches down and in front of work, work 1dc in st that sits in centre of branch from prev round; rep from * around. Join round with 1ch and sl st in first ch-sp. Rnds 10 & 11: 3ch, tr around – 82tr. Rnd 12: Make 41 branches. Rnd 13: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 14: 3ch, tr around. For a stable and flat tree base insert 16.5cm/6½in cardboard circle now, align with centre. Rnd 15: 3ch, [14tr, tr2tog] five times, 1tr – 77tr. Rnd 16: Make 38 branches, to join rnd miss 2 sts when closing last branch. Rnd 17: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 18: 3ch, tr around – 76tr. Rnd 19: 3ch, 5tr, tr2tog, [6tr, tr2tog] eight times, 4tr – 67tr. Rnd 20: Make 33 branches, to join rnd miss 2 sts when closing last branch. Rnd 21: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 22: 3ch, tr around – 66tr. Rnd 23: 3ch, 4tr, tr2tog, [5tr, tr2tog] eight times, 3tr – 57tr. Rnd 24: Make 28 branches, to join rnd, miss 2 sts when closing last branch. Rnd 25: Rep rnd 9. Begin to stuff tree. Make a hole in centre of stuffing, insert cardboard tube and stuff around it, then remove it again. Make sure cardboard tube fits, sits straight and is tightly supported by the stuffing, it should not move around inside the tree. Rnd 26: 3ch, tr around – 57tr. Rnd 27: 3ch, 3tr, tr2tog, [4tr, tr2tog] eight times, 3tr – 48tr. Rnd 28: Make 24 branches. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 79

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions Join round by working last branch with a sl st into the base of first branch (under first ch), unless otherwise instructed. Rnd 6: Make 32 branches, alternate sizes as folls: [1 x L, 1 x S, 1 x XL] to last 4 sts, make 1 x L and 1 x S branch, do not join round. Rnd 7: Working tightly, *1ch, holding branches down and in front of work, work 1dc in st that sits in centre of branch from prev round; rep from * around. Join round with 1ch and sl st in first ch-sp. Rnd 8: 3ch, tr around – 64tr. Rnd 9: 3ch, 13tr, tr2tog, [14tr, tr2tog] three times – 60tr. Rnd 10: Make 30 branches, alternating sizes as folls: [1 x S, 1 x M] around, to join round miss 2 sts when closing last branch.

Rnd 29: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 30: 3ch, 2tr, tr2tog, [3tr, tr2tog] eight times, 3tr – 39tr. Rnd 31: 3ch, tr around. Rnd 32: Make 19 branches. Add stuffing and leave a hole in centre for tube. Rnd 33: Rep rnd 9 Rnd 34: 3ch, [7tr, tr2tog, 8tr, tr2tog] twice – 35tr. Rnd 35: 3ch, tr around. Rnd 36: [6ch, miss next st, 1dc] around. Do not join. Rnd 37: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 38: 3ch, tr around. Rnd 39: 3ch, [12tr, tr2tog] twice, 6tr – 33tr. Rnd 40: *7ch, 1dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in next ch, miss two sts, close loop with 1dc in next st; rep from * around. Don’t join this round. Rnd 41: [1ch, 1dc in next two sts that sit inside the loop from prev rnd] around. UPPER TREE BODY (OR SINGLE TREE) Foundation Row: 22ch, sl st to first ch to form ring. Ensure ring fits easily over cardboard tube, not too tight or too loose. If making an individual

small tree, omit instructions for cardboard tube. Rnd 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in each ch around - 22tr. Rnd 2: 4ch, 1dtr in base of ch (counts as 2dtr), 2dtr in each st around – 44dtr. Rnd 3: 4ch, 1dtr, [2dtr in next st, 1dtr] around – 65dtr. Rnds 4 & 5: 3ch, tr around. Tree Branches for Upper Body: This part of the Tree has four different sized branches: S, M, L & XL. S: *12ch, 1dc in the second ch from hook, 1dc in next three ch, 8ch, miss next st, close branch into a loop by working 1dc in next st; rep from * around. M: *16ch, 1dc in the second ch from hook, 1dc in next four ch, 11ch, miss next st, close branch into a loop by working 1dc in next st; rep from * around. L: *20ch, 1dc in the second ch from hook, 1dc in next four ch, 10ch, miss next st, close branch into a loop by working 1dc in next st; rep from * around. XL: *20ch, 1dc in the second ch from hook, 1dc in next four ch, 18ch, miss next st, close branch into a loop by working 1dc in next st; rep from * around.

Rnd 11: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 12: 3ch, 7tr, tr2tog, [8tr, tr2tog] five times – 54tr. Rnd 13: 3ch, tr around. Rnd 14: Make 27 branches, alternating sizes as folls: [1 x M, 1 x S] to last st, 1 x M. Rnd 15: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 16: 3ch, 5tr, tr2tog, [6tr, tr2tog] five times, 6tr – 48tr. Rnd 17: 3ch, 5tr, tr2tog, [6tr, tr2tog] five times – 42tr. Rnd 18: Make 21 branches, alternating sizes as folls: [1 x S, 1 x M] to last st, 1 x M. Rnd 19: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 20: 3ch, 4tr, tr2tog, [5tr, tr2tog] five times – 36tr. Rnd 21: 3ch, 4tr, tr2tog, [5tr, tr2tog] four times, 1tr – 31tr. Rnd 22: Make 15 x S branches, to join rnd miss 2 sts when closing last branch – 30tr. Rnd 23: Rep rnd 7. Add stuffing and leave hole in centre for tube. Rnd 24: 3ch, 3tr, tr2tog, [4tr,

tr2tog] four times – 25tr. Rnd 25: 3ch, tr around. Rnd 26: Make 12 x S branches, to join rnd miss 2 sts when closing last branch. Rnd 27: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 28: 3ch, tr around – 25tr. Rnd 29: 3ch, [6tr, tr2tog] three times – 22tr. Rnd 30: Make 11 x S branches. Rnd 31: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 32: 3ch, tr around. Place Upper Tree Body onto the cardboard tube of Lower Tree Body, stuff lightly, making sure everything fits and overall shape of tree is good. Stuff lightly as work gets nearer to top. Rnd 33: 3ch, 2tr, tr2tog, (3tr, tr2tog) three times, 2tr – 18tr. Rnd 34: Make 9 x S branches Rnd 35: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 36: 3ch, 1tr, tr2tog (2tr, tr2tog) three times, 2tr – 14tr. Rnd 37: 3ch, tr around – 14tr. Rnd 38: Make 7 x S branches Rnd 39: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 40: 3ch, 1tr in each ch-sp from prev round, stuff tip lightly – 7tr. Rnd 41: 3ch, tr around missing a couple of sts to end up with 5tr, top should be completely closed. CROWN OF TREE Make 3 x S branches and work 1dc right into tip of tree, work 12ch and close loop with a sl st. This last loop should sit upright and it is the crown of the tree. TREE TRUNK BASE Using a glue gun, attach one cardboard circle to each end of cardboard tube. Wrap black yarn around the tube, using double sided tape helps to keep yarn in END place. Cover with felt. Decorate as desired.

80 Inside Crochet

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From knitting yarns including Knitting classes for Bergere de France, Jarol, Sirdar, Yarns and patterns, exclusively all ages yours in the UKWool from: Craft to threads, ribbons, Regular knitting felt and sewing bags ... we stock workshops a wide product range to suit Crochet and other craft classes also available KN33 (Page 61) Quarters & eighths_KN every designing need! 18/03/2014 09:01 Page 61 Skeins & Bobbins Tel: 01452 831725 www.creative-needles.co.uk Email:

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IC84_81.indd 47

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IC84_82.indd 1

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MATERIALS ● 4ply weight yarn, approximately 100g/360m/390yds Yarn A: Gold x 50g Yarn B: Rose x 50g Yarn C: Lilac x 450g Yarn D: Currant x 350g Yarn E: Heather x 450g Yarn F: Azure x 550g (see Colour Palette on page 87) ● 3mm hook YARN ALTERNATIVES Amanda’s blanket was made with oddments of leftover yarn. If you prefer to buy new yarn, consider the following brands. You do not need to use the same dye lots – Amanda recommends you use a collection of shades for each colour and alternate between them for a more detailed feel. UK independent dyers and spinners: Skein Queen: Selkino, Lustrous. John Arbon Textiles: Exmoor Sock, Knit by Numbers 4-ply. Easyknits: Splendour. The Little Grey Sheep: Stein 4-ply. Worldwide commercial brands: Drops: Alpaca, Alpaca/Silk. Fyberspates: Vivacious 4ply. Cascade: 220 Fingering, Heritage Silk. Knit Picks: Palette.

Knot Garden BY AMANDA PERKINS

A knot garden is laid out in a geometric pattern, with each flower bed normally bordered by a box hedge. While visiting Hatfield House, Amanda took time out to visit its knot garden – the geometry and colour made it perfect for this stylised design.

TENSION Exact tension isn’t essential for this design. However, make sure your stitches aren’t too tight or too loose, and that they are consistent across the blanket. If the stitches are too tight the finished effect will be rigid and unpliable; if too loose the blanket will be too floppy. Amanda has used a 3mm hook but she crochets quite loosely, so you may need to go up a size or two. Work Square motif to measure 7.5 x 7.5cm/3 x 3in using 3mm hook, or size required to obtain tension or desired fabric drape. MEASUREMENTS Finished blanket measures 168 x 168cm/66 x 66in. DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Amanda is known for her stunning use of colour and motifs, creating detailed blankets, shawls and scarves. Her patterns can be found www.insidecrochet.co.uk 83

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

The layout layout keykey Motif Square motif 1: make 85

Round 1

Round 2

Round 3

Round 4

Round 5

Round 6

Rounds 7, 8 & 9

Gold

Rose

Lilac

Azure

Azure

Gold

Three-quarter square motif 2: make 180

Azure

Azure

Azure

Currant

Currant

Currant

Heather

Mitre square motif 3: make 60

Azure

Azure

Azure

Currant

Currant

Currant

Heather

Lilac

Lilac

Lilac

Lilac

Lilac

Azure

Square motif 4: make 116

colour chart

of original 2ch with a sl st – 24htr. Fasten off. Rnd 3: Join colour 2 where rnd 2 completed, 3ch (counts as 1tr) in the first gap, *1htr in next gap, 1dc in the next three gaps, 1htr in next gap, (1tr, 2ch**, 1tr) in next gap (this is a corner); rep from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to third st of original 3ch with a sl st. Fasten off. Rnd 4: Join colour 3 in any corner space, 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the same corner space, 1htr in the next six gaps, (2htr, 2ch**, 2htr) in corner space; repeat from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st. Rnd 5: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap (this is easier to do if you position the hook at a slight angle), 1htr in the next nine gaps, (2htr, 2ch**, 2htr) in corner space*; repeat from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st. Rnd 6: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap (this is easier to do if you position the hook at a slight angle), 1htr in the next 12 gaps, (2htr, 2ch**, 2htr) in corner space; repeat from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st. Fasten off.

on Craftsy, Etsy and Ravelry. Visit her blog at www.amandas crochetblog.blogspot.co.uk. PATTERN NOTES Finished squares are slip stitched or crocheted together along each side. Crochet into the corresponding gaps between the stitches on each side of the motif. To create a border, work two rows of double crochet. The Colour Chart (above) is designed to give you an overall look

at how this blanket is composed, and how the colours interact with each other; there is further detail on the blanket’s motif arrangement in the step-by-step section. The most prominent colour here is purple but you don’t need to use the same colours as Amanda. There are two other colour charts for inspiration on page 86. Refer to Layout Key (top) throughout for which yarn to use for motifs.

Square motif Make 201 Using colour 1, make 4ch and join in a ring with a sl st. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 11htr in the foundation ring. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st – 12htr. In next and all following rounds work into the gaps between sts from the previous round. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap, *2htr in next gap; repeat from * ten times. Join to second st start

Three-quarter square motif Make 180 Using colour 1, make 4ch and join in a ring with a sl st. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 11htr in the foundation ring. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st – 12htr. In next and all following rounds work into the gaps between sts from the previous round. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap, *2htr in next gap; repeat from * ten times. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st – 24htr. Rnd 3: (3ch (counts as 1tr), 2ch, 1tr) in the first gap (this is a corner), *1htr in next gap, 1dc in the next three gaps, 1htr in next gap**, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next gap (this is a corner); repeat from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to third st of original 3ch with a sl st. Fasten off. Row 4: Join colour 2 in any corner space, 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in

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the same corner space, *1htr in the next six gaps, (2htr**, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space; repeat from * twice, ending last repeat at **. Turn. Row 5: Join colour 3 in last htr from rnd 4, 2ch (counts as 1htr), miss one gap, 1htr in the next eight gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next nine gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space. 1htr in the next eight gaps, miss one gap, 1htr in top of 2ch, turn. Row 6: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the next ten gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next 12 gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next ten gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch. Fasten off. Row 7: Join colour 4 in top right corner space of rnd 6, 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap, 1htr in the next 15 gaps, 2htr in corner space, turn. Row 8: 2ch (counts as 1htr), miss one gap, 1htr in the next 16 gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch, turn. Row 9: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the next 17 gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch. Fasten off. Mitre square motif Make 60 Using colour 1, make 4ch and join in a ring with a sl st. Rnd 1: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 11htr in the foundation ring, join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st – 12htr. In next and all following rounds work into the gaps between sts from the previous round. Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in same gap, *2htr in next gap; repeat from * ten times. Join to second st of original 2ch with a sl st – 24htr. Rnd 3: (3ch (counts as 1tr), 2ch, 1tr) in the first gap (this is a corner), *1htr in next gap, 1dc in the next three gaps, 1htr in next gap**, (1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next gap (this is a corner); repeat from * three times, ending last repeat at **. Join to third st of original 3ch with a sl st. Fasten off. Row 4: Join colour 2 in any corner space, 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the same corner space, 1htr in the next six gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in next sic gaps, 2htr in corner space, turn. Fasten off. Row 5: Join colour 3 in last htr

from row 4, 2ch (counts as 1htr), miss one gap, 1htr in the next eight gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next nine gaps, turn. Row 6: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the next ten gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in next ten gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch, turn. Fasten off. Row 7: Join colour 4 in last htr from row 6, 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the next 12 gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next 12 gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch, turn. Row 8: 2ch (counts as 1htr), miss one gap, 1htr in the next 13 gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in next 14 gaps, turn. Row 9: 2ch (counts as 1htr), 1htr in the next 15 gaps, (2htr, 2ch, 2htr) in corner space, 1htr in the next 15 gaps, 1htr in top of 2ch. Fasten off.

Square motif

Square motif

Three-quarter square motif

Three-quarter square motif

Mitre square motif

Mitre square motif www.insidecrochet.co.uk 85

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MAKE IT

Pattern instructions

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ASSEMBLY This blanket is started at the centre and then rounds of motifs are built up around this. Step 1: Create nine Motif 1 blocks and slip stitch them together as shown. Step 2: Take 12 Motif 2 blocks and four Motif 3 blocks and slip stitch them in place to form the first border. On the diagram above, the purple line indicates how the dark purple band on each of the motifs should align. Step 3: Take 24 Motif 4 blocks and slip stitch them in place to create the second border. To create the third border, take four Motif 4 blocks, 12 Motif 3 blocks and 16 Motif 2 blocks; slip stitch them in place as shown. Step 4: Take four Motif 4 blocks,

eight Motif 2 blocks and 28 Motif 1 blocks, and slip stitch in place as shown to create the fourth border. Step 5: For the fifth border you will need four Motif 4 blocks, 12 Motif 3 blocks and 32 Motif 2 blocks. Step 6: Use 56 Motif 4 blocks to complete the sixth border. Step 7: To create the seventh border, take 12 Motif 3 blocks, eight Motif 4 blocks and 44 Motif 2 blocks. Slip stitch them in place as shown. Step 8: For the eighth border, slip stitch 48 Motif 1 blocks, 16 Motif 2 blocks and eight Motif 4 blocks in place as shown. Step 9: For the final border, take eight Motif 4 blocks, 20 Motif 3 blocks and 52 Motif 2 END blocks and slip stitch them in place as shown.

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STEPS 4–6 (BELOW)

COLOUR PALETTE

A: Gold

C: Lilac

E: Heather

B: Rose

D: Currant

F: Azure

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STEPS 7–9 (BELOW)

COLOUR VARIATIONS Swap the pinks and purples for a range of vibrant tones (left, top): magenta, cyan, lime and orange. These vivid tones work well together and create a blanket that will bring plenty of warmth to an indoor space. Introduce more foliage to your garden (left, bottom): complement the bright green elements with a deep, calming purple that runs through the channels of the design.

This stunning design was taken from Rainbow Crocheted Blankets by Amanda Perkins (Search Press, £12.99).

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Your knitting and crochet project and “work in progress” companion book 40 project pages Hook and needle inventory Common terms, symbols and abbreviations Sizing guides for hats, blankets and socks

£9.50 including free UK delivery from www.doodlestop.co.uk

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HOW TO CROCHET

TEACH YOURSELF

Crochet Howto

IDE TO OUR COMPLETE GU BLE AT CROCHET IS AVAILA

How to hold the work, chains, double & treble crochet, slip stitches and more

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

k

s.co.u www.stylecraft-yarn

Crochet is a craft that often looks deceptively

WE LOVE!

hard – all that twisting and

This gorgeous “blanket in a bag” design in the new Stylecraft Batik DK Pattern 9299

looping and pulling of yarn! But once you’ve got the hang of a few simple movements, you’ll find it’s easy to work all the stitches you need, meaning you can make anything from simple granny motifs to complex garments worked in elaborate stitch patterns. Claire Montgomerie has put together this great guide to all the crochet basics, in association with Stylecraft, who have a wide range of affordable, high-quality yarns, perfect for beginners and more experienced crocheters. From basic Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

stitches to slip knots, tension, abbreviations, working in the round and more, our guide will take you through everything you need to know to make a start on your new favourite hobby. Claire’s number one tip is to practise the chain stitch before you move on to anything else, as once you’ve got the hang of creating smooth, even chains, you’ll find it easy to move on to all the other techniques. Crochet is a wonderful hobby that can give you many hours of pleasure as well as beautiful finished makes, so turn the page to get started today!

TURN THE PAGE FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED

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HOW TO CROCHET

GETTING STARTED

THE BASICS To crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination feels more natural for you, or a variation on these.

SLIPKNOT

CHAIN

A slipknot creates the first loop on the hook.

Most crochet projects begin with a length of chain. This is the perfect stitch to practise your hold and tension with.

HOLDING THE HOOK

KNIFE GRIP

PENCIL GRIP

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife.

Hold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil.

1 Make a loop in the yarn around 10–20cm/4–8in from the end. Insert hook through loop, catch the back strand of yarn and pull it through to the front.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

HOLDING THE YARN

FOREFINGER METHOD

MIDDLE-FINGER METHOD

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand, under the next two fingers and over the forefinger. Hold the work steady with your middle finger and thumb, then raise your forefinger when working to create tension.

Wrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and over the other fingers. Hold the work steady with your forefinger and thumb, then raise your middle finger while you are crocheting to create tension.

Working left-handed To croch e t le ft-h and ed, simply do the opp osit e to . the righ t-h and ed hol ds Hold a mirror up to any to p ic ture in this gu ide

see how to wor k.

TOPTiPabcdgg It doesn’t ma t te r if your sti tch es te nd tow ar ds be in g sli gh tly tig ht or ev en a lit tle loose; you ar e ai mi ng for an ev en te nsion th roughout to ac hi ev e a pr of ession al fin ish .

1 Holding just the hook with point up in your dominant hand, and the yarn in the other, grip the slipknot with the yarn holding hand. Work a yarn round hook (yrh or yoh) by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it.

2 Pull the ends of the yarn to secure the knot around the hook, but not too tightly or it will be hard to pull the first loop of chain through.

TOPTiPabcdgg The action of working stitches causes a constan t rolling of the hook in your fingers; hold the hook pointin g up when performing the yrh, then roll it round towards you to point down when pulling through the loops so that you don’t catch the hook in the stitches.

2 Roll the hook round in your fingers towards you to catch the yarn and pull through loop on hook. One chain made.

3 Ensuring the stitches are even – not too loose or tight – repeat to make a length of chain.

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HOW TO CROCHET

THE MAIN STITCHES SLIP STITCH (sl st) A slip stitch is usually used to join one stitch to another, or to join a stitch to another point. It is generally made by picking up two strands of a stitch but when used all over, you usually only pick up the back loop.

Simple motif designs can quickly build up into larger projects, such as this stunning blanket from Stylecraft Pattern 9298

Double crochet stitches are perfect for making amigurumi, while treble crochets are used to create the classic granny square design

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) The smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi. 1 Insert hook into st or chain required. Yarn over hook, as when you make a chain. Pull a loop through all stitches/ loops/work on hook to finish slip stitch.

1 Insert hook into chain or stitch, front to back. Yarn over hook and draw through stitch to front, leaving you with two loops on the hook. Yarn round hook. 2 Draw through both loops to finish the stitch. Double crochet completed.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

COUNTING A CHAIN The right side of your chain is the one that looks like a little plait of “v” shapes. Each “v” is a stitch and must be counted. When you are working the chain, you do not count the slipknot, but begin to count your chain when you pull through the first loop. To count the chain afterwards you count the slipknot as the first stitch, but not the loop on the hook, or “working” loop.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric. 1 Yarn over hook, insert hook into st from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw yarn through three remaining loops on the hook together to complete half treble.

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HOW TO CROCHET

TREBLE CROCHET (tr) The tallest of the basic stitches, great for using within more complex patterns.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

➻ One of the most well-known and respected names in the hand knitting business, Stylecraft offers yarns which reflect the latest fashion trends together with those essential classics and irresistible baby yarns that are ideal for knitting and crochet. We pride ourselves on offering excellent quality yarn at great prices and our designs embrace garments for all the family as well as toys and accessories.

1 Yarn round hook, insert hook into stitch from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

FASTEN OFF Pull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up tightly to secure.

COUNTING STITCHES Count the post or “stem” of each stitch from the side of your work. Each post counts as one stitch. Double crochet

2 Pull loop through two loops. Two loops on hook. Yarn round hook.

Treble crochet

Visit our website at www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk for information on all our new and existing product ranges, plus some fantastic free patterns for you to enjoy too!

Finding a stockist near you ➻ To find your nearest local, independent yarn store that stocks Stylecraft yarns, please visit www.stylecraft-yarns. co.uk/stockists.php and enter your postcode into the online form.

TOPTiPabcdgg

3 Pull loop through the remaining two loops to complete treble, repeat to end of row.

Try t o coun t your st it ches a t regu lar int erva ls, usua lly a t the end of ever y, or ever y othe r, row and esp ecia lly a f t er an incr ea se or decr ea se row. It is b est t o try t o ca t ch any mist ake s a s q uick ly a s p ossib le, a s this will mak e them muc h ea sier t o rect i fy!

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HOW TO CROCHET

USING THE STITCHES WORKING INTO A CHAIN

WORKING STRAIGHT

When working into a chain, you need to miss out the appropriate number of chain stitches called for with your particular stitch (see the information on turning chains, to the right). Now insert the hook from front to back into the next chain, under the top loop of the chain. Yarn over and draw a loop through to the front of the chain.

When working straight, you need to turn your work at the end of a row and then work a turning chain (t-ch) to the height of your intended stitch so that you can continue working along the next row. This chain often counts as the first stitch of the row and each type of stitch uses a different number of chain stitches for the turning chain.

WORKING INTO WHICH LOOP?

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Crochet stitches are always worked through both loops of the next stitch (this looks like a “v” on top of the stitch), unless the pattern tells you otherwise.

With htr and taller stitches, you now miss out the first stitch of the row, then work into every following stitch. This is because the turning chain is tall enough to count as the first stitch itself, so is counted as the first stitch of the row. This also means that you must remember to work the last stitch of a row into the top of the previous row’s turning chain.

For PDF versions of Stylecraft’s shade cards, visit www.stylecraftyarns.co.uk

Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or chain space. To do this, simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain and complete the stitch normally

KEEPING STRAIGHT EDGES Sometimes a pattern will ask you to work only through one loop of the stitch. To work through the front loop only (flo), insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then bring it out at the centre of the stitch, then complete. To work through the back loop only (blo), insert your hook through the centre of the stitch, then under the back loop to the back, then complete the stitch. Sometimes you are even asked to work in between the stitches. In this case, ignore the top loops of the stitch and insert your hook between the posts of adjoining stitches.

WORKING INTO A SPACE Sometimes you are asked to work into a space or a chain space. To do this simply insert your hook into the hole underneath the chain, then complete your stitch normally. This is similar to working into a ring, as shown on page 94.

Knowing which stitch to work into when working straight can be a problem for beginners, because the turning chain has such a role to play. If you don’t know which stitch to work into after making your turning chain, simply unravel back to the last stitch from previous row and insert a thread or stitch marker into that stitch. Make your desired turning chain then miss out the stitch with the thread in (except with dc stitches), as your turning chain now counts as the first stitch of the row. Once you have worked across all stitches in the row, you must remember to put a stitch into the top of the previous row’s turning chain, as this also counts as a stitch. www.insidecrochet.co.uk 93

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HOW TO CROCHET

CROCHET PATTERNS from

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9306 Use simple-to-hook mitered square motifs to make these stylish homewares in Carnival Chunky and Special Aran.

WORKING IN THE ROUND When working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work, turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times and you do not turn. When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:

WORKING AROUND A RING

WORKING INTO A SHORT CHAIN

ADJUSTABLE RING

This method of working in the round creates a large hole at the centre of your work. Its size is dependent on the length of chain used.

You can create a smaller hole in the centre of your work by working into a chain as short as 2ch long.

This method is also referred to as the magic loop or ring, as it creates a round with no hole at the centre. Here it is demonstrated with double crochet.

Make a length of chain as required, then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made. Yarn round hook.

For double crochets, as in this example, work 2ch. For htr you would work 3ch and for trebles, 4ch. Make a loop in your yarn, at least 15cm/6in from the tail end. Insert hook through the loop from front to back.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

Insert hook into the top loop of the first chain as shown. Yarn round hook.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9300 Try the new Stylecraft Batik DK yarn to make these pretty projects with a vintage look.

BLANKET AND CUSHION PATTERN 9307 Combine Carnival Chunky and Special Aran to make this fabulous tessellated design.

Work a slip stitch to join, creating a ring, and then work your turning chain dependent on which stitch you will be working into the ring. Insert hook into the centre of the ring and work the first stitch into this ring.

Complete the first stitch in the chain as shown (illustrations show dc, but can be any stitch).

Work required number of stitches into the centre of the ring and join round with a slip stitch. Do not turn, but continue the next row around the last.

Now work the required amount of stitches into the same chain. The sheer amount of stitches worked into one place will cause them to fan out into a round. Now join this round with a slip stitch and continue with the pattern.

Pull yarn though to front of loop and complete the stitch around the loop and the tail end of yarn held double.

Work all the following stitches into the ring in the same way, over the two strands of yarn in the loop. Once all stitches have been worked, pull the loose tail end of the yarn to close the ring and join the round with a slip stitch.

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HOW TO CROCHET

SHAPING, COLOURWORK & TENSION Once you’ve learned simple shaping stitches, you can create almost any garment – and add in different colours as you go with our simple technique. Make sure to check your tension first though, or your finished piece could be completely the wrong size!

INCREASING

JOINING IN A NEW COLOUR

TENSION/GAUGE

To join in a new colour (or a new ball of the same colour), you can simply fasten off the old yarn and then attach the new colour with a slip stitch into the top of the last stitch made. However, for a neater join, you can also work the colour change as follows: To work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once. Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch you’ve just worked and complete another stitch. One stitch increased.

DECREASING

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

To decrease a stitch, you need to work into two stitches without finishing them, then work them together.

For a double crochet (above), insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the stitch, but do not finish the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert hook into following st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the next st, so there are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn over hook and draw the loop through all loops on hook, drawing two stitches together. One stitch decreased.

For a treble crochet, work a treble into the next stitch until the last step of the stitch, two loops on hook. Do the same into the following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw through all three loops on hook to draw the two trebles together. One stitch decreased.

Work the last stitch in the colour you are using first, up to the final step, so that the stitch is unfinished. Pull the new colour through the loops on your hook, completing the stitch and joining the new colour at the same time. Working a new colour over double crochet

Working a new colour over treble crochet

Once you have joined in the new yarn, you can weave in the ends of both yarns as you go, by holding them on top of your stitches and working round them as you work into the following stitches. Do this for at least 5cm/2in then cut the remaining ends.

A tension swatch is used to ensure that you are working at the tension called for in the pattern. It is essential to check this, otherwise your finished garment is likely to be the wrong size! Crochet a small square of just over 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn and stitch used in the pattern, then count and calculate the average amount of stitches per cm. Chain a few more stitches and work more rows than the tension in the pattern suggests you’ll need for this size. Once you have completed the swatch, use a measuring tape or ruler, place some pins at 0 and 10 and take some average measurements – count how many stitches and rows to 10cm at different points over the swatch. If you find you have more stitches per cm than indicated in the pattern, then your tension is too tight and you need to work more loosely. The best way to do this is to increase the size of hook you’re using by a quarter or half millimetre until the tension is as close as you can get it. If there are fewer stitches than required, then you are crocheting too loosely, and you need to decrease the size of hook used in the same way.

TURN THE PAGE FOR CLUSTER STITCHES, TIPS AND A FULL GLOSSARY OF CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS, UK VS US TERMS AND HOOK SIZES

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HOW TO CROCHET

CLUSTERS Clusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase, they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.

BOBBLE

PUFFS

A bobble is a number of stitches (generally trebles), half finished and all worked into the same stitch. Work each stitch until the last step, omitting this final step. Once the desired number of half finished trebles have been completed, you will have one more loop on your hook than you have half finished trebles. Yarn round hook, then pull through all loops on hook to complete the bobble.

A puff is a number of elongated half trebles worked into the same stitch and then finished together, as follows:

POPCORNS Popcorns are a number of complete stitches worked into one stitch.

1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch, pull a loop through the stitch and then pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row.

TIPS ANDTRICKS abcdgg

Working from a pattern ➻ Once you have “cracked the code” and understand the stitches’ abbreviations, a pattern becomes much easier to read. Don’t read a pattern fully before starting it as it may make it seem more complex, but do take a brief look through to check if there any abbreviations you are unfamiliar with. Consult the abbreviations tables opposite before beginning. ➻ Purchase yarn with the same dye lot number on the balls to avoid unwanted colour changes and choose light coloured yarn for your first projects to make sure that you can see your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring.

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

1 Once the sts are completed, remove your hook and insert back into the first stitch worked, then through the final loop.

2 Yarn round hook, insert into same stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row. Repeat this step the desired number of times.

➻ If you are attempting a project with multiple size options, circle or highlight the instructions for the size you are making throughout the pattern to avoid confusion. The smallest size is listed first, then all following ones inside brackets, increasing in size and separated by commas. ➻ Where a pattern has an accompanying chart, use this for reference, as it shows the formation of the stitches as they will be worked and can help with tricky instructions.

2 Yarn round hook and pull through everything on the hook. Popcorn complete.

3 Yarn round hook and pull through all loops on hook. Puff made.

Choose light-coloured yarn for your first few projects to make sure that you can see all of your stitches easily – this helps prevent mistakes occurring

➻ Finally, and most importantly, for projects that need to have a good fit, always check your tension by swatching before you begin.

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HOW TO CROCHET

A note on... Hook sizes

ABBREVIATIONS Note: Inside Crochet uses UK terms throughout alt · alternate bef · before beg · begin(s); beginning bet · between blo · back loop only ch(s) · chain(s) ch-sp(s) · chain space(s) cl(s) · cluster(s) cm · centimetre(s) cont · continue(s); continuing dc · double crochet dc2tog · work two dc together dec(s) · decrease(s); decreasing; decreased dtr · double treble crochet dtr2tog · work two dtr together ea · each ech · extended chain edc · extended double crochet

prev · previous rem · remain(s); remaining rep(s) · repeat(s) rev dc · reverse double crochet rnd(s) · round(s) RS · right side rtrf · raised treble front rtrb · raised treble back sl · slip sl st · slip stitch sp(s) · space(es) st(s) · stitch(es) t-ch(s) · turning chain(s) tog · together tr · treble crochet trtr · triple treble tr2tog · work two trebles together WS · wrong side yd(s) · yard(s) yoh · yarn over hook yrh · yarn round hook

etr · extended treble est · established fdc · foundation double crochet flo · front loop only foll · follows; following ftr · foundation treble crochet g · gram(s) gp(s) · group(s) hk · hook htr · half treble crochet htr2tog · work two htr together inc(s) · increase(s); increasing; increased in · inch(es) lp(s) · loop(s) m · stitch marker mm · millimetre(s) nc · not closed patt · pattern pm · place marker

adjustable ring sl st BREAKING THE LANGUAGE BARRIER UK and US terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for thech crocheter. Here’s a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstandings.

bl only

Text © Inside Crochet/Claire Montgomerie. Illustrations © Inside Crochet/Sean Miles

UK TERMS Chain Miss Slip stitch Double crochet Half treble crochet Treble crochet Double treble crochet Triple treble crochet Raised treble back/front

US TERMS Chain adjustable ring Skip Slip stitch sl st Single crochet ch Half double crochet Double crochet bl only Treble crochet Double treble crochet fl only adjustable ring Back/front post dc dc sl st

14

0.75

12

1 1.25

11adjustable ring 7

1.50

6

sl st

5ch

1.75 2

14

bl only

2.25

B/1

2.75 sl st

C/2

adjustable ring 2.5 12 adjustable ring 3sl st

10

3.5 bl only

9

ch 3.25 ch

bl only 3.75 fl 4fl only only 4.5 dc 5dc fdc 5.5 fdc 6 htr htr 6.5 7tr

8tr 9

dtr dtr 10 11.5

trtr 12

trtr

fl only dc

D/3 fdc E/4

htr

F/5 8

G/6

7

7

6

H/8

tr

5

dtr I/9

4

J/10

3

K-/101/2 trtr

2 0

L/11

00

rtrf M /13

000

N/15 O rtrb P

15

Q dc2tog

20

S

rtrf rtrf

tr2tog

tr2tog tr2tog

3-tr cl

dtr

rtrb

tr3tog tr3tog

popcorn

trtr

dc2tog

puff puff

linked tr

tr2tog

3-tr cl 3-tr cl

tr3tog

popcorn www.insidecrochet.co.uk popcorn

puff

linked tr linked tr

fl only

tr

sl st

dc

ch

fdc

bl only

htr

htr

dtr

0.60

rtrf

adjustable ring

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tr

US

puff

htr

fdc

htr

UK

dc2tog dc2tog

bl only

tr

dc

fdc

Metric (mm)

tr3tog

fdc

fl only

dc

CROCHET HOOK SIZES

rtrb rtrb

ch

CHARTS KEY

fl only

➻ Hook sizes and their designations vary from country to country. When following the recommendations in a pattern or on a ball band, make sure to check which size convention is being used.

trtr

rtrf dtr rtrb

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FINAL THOUGHT

“I love trying fairly 'ou t there' colour combin at ions which don't work unt il you add another colo ur and then it all ma gic ally makes sense”

ESME CRICK

A RIOT OF COLOUR We chat to Esme of Red Sparrow Crochet about crazy colour combos, favourite stitches and crafting around small children.

Above: Esme lives in Suffolk with her family and cat. Below: Esme crochets from a wicker chair in a light spot, while Wolfie (middle) is her favourite design.

Tell us about your life… After many years of living it up in London and Brighton, I now live in Suffolk with my partner. He’s a west-country boy but he seems to tolerate the flat lands and big skies on this side of the country. We’ve got two children (both pretty nifty with a crochet hook I am pleased to say!), and an aloof cat called Hank Deluxe. He’s not so good at crochet. Better at sleeping. Have you always been a creative person? Oh, totally. I started out with my first handmade “jewellery showroom” in my bedroom when I was 14, then started making clothes, hats and bags as well. My children have definitely inherited my creative ways and our house is full of paint, glue, thread, card, beads, wire, yarn… it’s fabulous, if somewhat messy. But hey, from mess comes inspiration! How did you learn to crochet? When my children were very little I was going a bit stir-crazy not making stuff. No free time and I really couldn’t leave my sewing machine and pins lying around with those inquisitive little fingers everywhere. I saw a woman crocheting on the beach one day and it was one of those moments of clarity – I had to learn! A friend’s kind mum showed me the basics and I have not stopped since. How did you get into crochet design? We were going through a difficult time, as my daughter got really ill about three and a half years ago and missed six months of school. My day job as a teacher had to stop so I could care for her. I remember sitting on her bed for weeks and weeks, crocheting some mad designs to save my sanity, wondering if I could somehow make some money from my designs, rather than just from the finished pieces. I emailed the lovely Claire Montgomerie at Inside Crochet, whose response was so warm, amazing, encouraging. I will always be grateful to Claire and this mag for that chance! What has been your most popular design? My Humbug Throw published by Stylecraft has been really successful. It’s a riot of colour and in fact I wrote the pattern to practise the “extended treble” stitch as I was fascinated by it. I’m wondering if that’s a bit obsessive, designing an entire throw to practise a particular stitch!

And what is your favourite of your designs? Ah, lovely crocheted “Wolfie” I made for the Wolf Trail in Bury St Edmunds last year. Wolfie lived in our kitchen for three months while I crocheted and sewed his covering (167 pieces of crochet to be precise!) He became part of the family, and when he was finished we had a farewell party for him. I truly loved him. What are your favourite yarns and fibres to work with? It’s all about colour for me, so I use lots of Stylecraft and Scheepjes DK as their colours are wonderful. I love trying fairly “out there” colour combinations which don’t work until you add another colour and then it all magically makes sense. Where is your favourite place to crochet? The big wicker chair in our kitchen. It just happens to be in a sunny spot by the window. It’s very comfortable and big enough for a person and several balls of yarn. Hank Deluxe is often asleep on the floor by the chair, so I can hear him snoring as I crochet. What one tip would you give to a beginner crocheter? Think big. Big hook, like a 10mm one, and some chunky yarn so you can see the stitches more clearly. Oh, and don’t be afraid to fling it across the room in moments of frustration. Have a cup of tea and then pick up the hook again. Who are your design heroes? Kaffe Fassett is a god in my eyes. But in general I am influenced by artists such as Josef Albers, Kandinsky, Barbara Hepworth for their use of colour and/or form. I saw an exhibition by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama a few years ago and was blown away by her “Infinity Nets”. Inspiration for crochet can be found everywhere, and that’s what gets me up every day. What do you have coming up in 2017? Gosh, lots more designs being published I hope! I am also going to start selling my throws and home accessories online. My BIG goal for next year though is to start writing my first book of designs, so if anyone has any tips or suggestions I’d love any help please! Find Esme online at www.facebook.com/ redsparrowcrochet

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