How to

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Home

Projects

Master class Articles Drafts CHIEF cabin

See the land!

There are no translations available.

Gallery

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Flying Fish Azov Karaka Pallada Zeehaen Nadezhda Derfflinger Oliphant New Oliphant Pocket Size Azov Flying Cloud Contacts Links

V la d is la v

B a b k in .

S h ip s

in

B o t t le s

What you need to start: - improvise / buy tools; - prepare materials. About the tool. I have long enjoyed the most simplest of which produced very affordable and Rosii material - barbed wire. Cut to pieces by the judges, straightened, took off his spikes and get the blank about 25 cm long. Two pieces I did rezachki - longitudinal and transverse. To do this, hacksaw cut on the middle and along the strand, and then place it in a vise to flatten the inner walls of the cut agreed. In a gap I put a piece of the blade. When it gets dull I change it using pasatizhey. From another workpiece made ​ versatile tool - with one hand there is a ball, which can generate waves in the bottle, as well as anything to press down, for example by glueing the two housing parts in the bottle. On the other side with a file formed flourish with which it can either push or pull on the contrary. Super universal tool - wire glue application. Bent as you need. stand on which is going to finished model. Consists of a base made ​ of plywood, "poker" and "pile" made ​ o f aluminum U-shaped profile. At the bottom there are holes for the poker and it is fixed with a screw, which is twisted with the end face of the base. Aluminum "slipway" is used to fix the model collected on a stand. Model is screwed to screw him and he in turn is screwed into the base. "Pokers" fixed mast model during traction mast. In the photo a later version of the stand where the base consists of a base and directly Phillips stand. This design is firstly allows you to adjust the height of the accommodation vessel which is operated by a bolt screwed into the spider like swivel chair, and secondly it collapsible. Think more clearly seen in the photo. I do not pretend that my scheme is the most comfortable, just once it was invented, and then in the process of being finalized and is now routinely used. Several other adapt have already been discussed on the forum, but so far it gentility. Now about the purchase. Of course, I mostly zatarivaemsya in Moscow Izmailovo Vernissage. There is a honey traders. tool as well as all sorts of fusechkami for yuvelirki and others playful pens. Need tweezers. Different. A few. Later, the pair will remain favorites but still need to try a few. Tweezers, I was a little refined for the winepress. In the sense made ​ t hem narrower so that it was easier to work in a bottle. There's also an abundance of all sorts sell rezachki, kusachechki, long scissors and zazhimchiki. If your budget allows, buy twice so as not to run. Need just Stationery scissors, metal ruler, knives - kosyachki cat. sold in stationery. Ibid at flea markets or jewelry departments need to purchase the drill. From 0.2 to 3 mm. Basic I 0.35 0.45 they drilled holes for wiring threads. Just need a mini drills or at worst hand Drillers where these drills can be clamped. desirability of - a drill with attachments. A particular brand I will not advise it to anyone as a budget. Convenient to work with a flexible shaft and vibroshlifovalka such proksonovskoy PS - 12. need a good light (ie, a table lamp). highly desirable to have a caliper. On any uvelichilkah, binocular glasses, etc. Now this is a lot for sale and I used to buy all sorts of Soup, but I personally did not take root in the work of this almost never use it. now about materials: First you need a bit of the dried birch for the manufacture of underwater hull, although it will linden or pine. For the manufacture of topside deck and hull are very well suited for school wooden ruler. For the manufacture of spars need BAMBOO. I have it at every opportunity harvested. Who is really to find the old bamboo rods or poles anywhere in the barn. I know that some people use toothpicks Asian as well as all kinds of bamboo products - mats, curtains, etc. Just need PVA glue, glue instant (Cyanoacrylate) type, the ordinary and gel. If you are planning to simulate the sea, I usually use an ordinary epoxy, it is readily available. For the manufacture of the ship's sides, I use an ordinary cardboard boxes of type of chocolates, etc. (Note it is a simple entry-level models). Naturally Need thread. Dark (black) for standing rigging, light beige for of running. About thread - read forum there already talked about this. 's actually all for now. Those who have experience in building ships in bottles (like those suckers suggest using the abbreviation CAB) I beg to supplement me if I missed something, as well as offer their own versions of tools and accessories. 3. Preliminary thoughts on choosing a bottle. This is for those who can not afford to miss pp 1 and 2 can use what is or what they like (Well, like my grandmother's family carafe). You can try to pick up a bottle at the conceived model. Criteria can be multiple - external forms must comply with the proportions of the bottle being placed in her ship (for a relatively short brig or yacht should not be used long-liter bottle from the vermouth), also take into account the aspect ratio of the diameter of the neck of the bottle, and - there are large bottles from under wine with a capacity of more than two liters with a narrow "standard" neck, then the body will have to share with for example not two, but three or four parts, which naturally makes it very difficult job.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

1/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

2/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

3/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

As a prototype for the construction of the model I chose the brig Mercury . This ship can be recommended for beginners because it is not difficult to build a sloshkom but quite fun, looks great in the bottle and on it you can find a lot of material. So drawings. The algorithm works with them about next. Of course, you must first find them. Main options at the beginning of the two: buy in the store and download from the Internet. In the future, there will be also a lot of other features, but more on that later. Scan existing drawings. Edit and glue them to give a general view of the model, the theoretical drawing, drawing the deck with the location of all that therein is, the scheme sail. Additionally, it is desirable to have the drawings of Mars, guns, anchors, boats, stern sweep the board. All this in a single scale composing in one or two files for later printing. Longer based on the parameters of the existing bottle print out drawings in full size so that the width of the body passed through the neck of the bottle with some margin, as well as full height and length of the model correspond to the internal dimensions of the bottle. Recommend print multiple drawings that then could be anything cut and used as a templet or pattern.

In the end, that's what happened. Better copy, refer to "Drawings".

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

4/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

This exemplary embodiment, and you can use it for further editing. now having a drawing for full size all sizes under construction model shoot directly with him. foresee that probably some who might argue that it is too simplistic (and how 3D- models, AutoCAD , error, etc.). So, I believe that in our scale can afford some error and simplification. Moreover say in the construction of a simplified model of a ship in a bottle (for example as a souvenir) to better fill the volume bottles can be a bit "cheated" and proportions, ie make the ship already, so that it can pass through the bottleneck. Of course when dealing with serious models podzhobnye mischief left alone.

So, let's continue. Bins of Homeland pulled the bottle. St. Petersburg was the drink spills. In the section of the rectangle. If you put the bottle on its long side, the internal height of the bottle is 85 mm and the diameter of its neck - 18.2 mm (note that inside the neck is usually somewhat narrower due to thickening of the walls of the bottle and the inner diameter of the neck at the very beginning usually somewhat greater than in the middle neck). This is our main number. A reason poraskinut brains at the expense of the size of the model. Throw the 10 mm of the sea. It remains to 75mm, ie the height of the ship from the waterline to the truck of the mainmast should not be more than 75 mm, if it is optimal to be about 70mm. 18 mm subtract a few mm gap and get the width of the model should not exceed 16.2 - 16.5 mm. Now open on the screen our drawing, take a hand line and begin to split hairs. With the option to increase the height of the image we bring the ship from the waterline to the truck of the mast to the required 70 mm. In this case, the width of the vessel to the outer skin was about 18.3 mm - this is too much for us. If you set the width to the required 16.5 mm, the height of the model will be equal to 64 mm. This is perfectly acceptable, as a result of the gap between the "ceiling" of the bottle and the truck of the mast a little more than 10 mm. That's what I did - without any pranks sent to print and eventually on paper was the maximum height of the model (without the underwater part) of 66 mm and a width of 17mm. To make sure it is not too wide, I cut out the printed drawing up deck plating and ruslenyami with tweezers and did the same as in the multi Eeyore Winnie the Pooh, ie thrust cut up into the neck and stuck it out and have a look what is the gap between the walls, ie whether there will be enough space to the top was folded mast. The results were quite satisfactory. We can now assume that we are ready to proceed directly to the production model. To begin, take a wooden ruler and discipling rascherchivaem her imitation decking.

Now on deck. printed on the wire drawing two lines as shown. We are interested in the size of a, b, c. If there are necessary tools and materials that can be cut from the workpiece to the required thickness of the deck. For those who enjoy the village ruler continue. To start saving on the workpiece length deck. Then we are interested in the value of s, which characterizes died deck. I turned it a little more than 0.5 mm. First I picked her torch, and then sanded with sandpaper for smooth arc. Now cutter (I use the type of scalpel blades imported to it are readily available and cost twice cheaper than those sold in hobby shops for ordinary modelistskih cutters with replaceable blades) conduct parallel lines that mimic the planking. The distance between about 0.7 mm. Of course this is not to scale the width of the planks of the deck, but if you do less, as a result of the deck would be too dark. following is welcome, familiar to all the editors of wall newspapers and magazines. Sharpen a pencil and begin to scrape the pencil on paper. The resulting graphite dust pour on lined with deck and rub with a cloth or a cotton swab. To fix the graphite particles at the seams then I cover the deck layer of diluted varnish for wood. Rather, the richer I just bought a nail art salon Spray (315 ruble 400ml) and not worried with solvents, brushes, etc. Once dry, begin to scrape the deck, drawing on her blade of the cutter stationery

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

5/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners supplied at 90 degrees to the deck. When the upper layer get dirty deck with sutures. First, they will be thick, but as sanding will be thinner and neater. So here it takes a little practice and patience ... Having thus lined with a blank for the deck is placed on top carved with a printed drawing plan template deck and encircle it. Now we are interested in the size of a and b with the said figure. Bottom deck our need to glue-line has a workpiece (this can be a segment of the same line or other such strip or a piece of veneer) to obtain the desired height of the deck above the waterline on both ends. In this case, it is almost the same. Then, after gluing the previously defined contours cut out part of the deck. then printed with a drawing of the projection "polushirota" cut contour that the figures referred to waterline. Impose it from the bottom of our harvesting and outlines. Then looking at the projection of the "body" to attach the bow and stern of our blank outline vessel. Do not forget that the width of the workpiece around the loop must be given the fact that later on it will be glued to the side of the board and it will be wider at least 0.5 mm. Again impose deck template for finished workpiece and an awl or ugloy "prick" location of masts, manholes, spire and superstructures. In locations mast drill holes approx. 0.5 mm for posting threads, and in the locations of manholes drill three holes approx. 1.5-2 mm. Two extremes for the pin, which will be attached to the housing of the underwater part, the mean for the screw body which will be attached to the stand when assembling.

For today, see the continuation of our series. : Lol:

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

6/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now for the manufacture of the boards. Perhaps the description of an exemplary algorithm manufacturing sides of the cardboard can be tedious and difficult, nevertheless practically mastered these steps, you will realize that it is actually not so bad, and after

a few blanks bungle you get it right with a quite acceptable quality and minimum time-consuming. Again, start from the printed life-size drawings. In this paper, do not forget that we do not have the board layout, but only its projection, so that the vertical dimensions are operating safely, but with horizontal more careful, there will be distortion. cardboard can be used for example from a box of chocolates or any similar packaging. Will he a little thicker or thinner - you decide. Cut the workpiece to the length and width of about 7.5 mm wider and longer than the projection sides waterline. Finished workpiece few bent and lean against our "deck". After spending a sharpened pencil along the upper edge of the deck paint on the blank side of the so-called line-board deck (see the book of wisdom). Then by measuring the drawing distance from the deck to the lower edge of the port (I have it was about 0.5 mm) is shifted down on the distance side and parallel to the first line draw another curve. It will line the bottom edges of the gun ports. Then measure the distance from the deck to the upper edge of the port, putting it off on our preparation and conduct a third line parallel to the first two. On it and cut off all the excess with scissors on top. Then applied our blank Drawing and mark up the position of the gun ports. Make a layout, cut out the ports as shown in the photo. Then cut out of poster board blade narrow strip across the width close to the thickness of the cardboard. This strip is pasted on top of our procurement and obtain almost ready to board (but without the gunwale). The second board manufacture similar to the first, using the aforesaid as a template to achieve full symmetry. After that, the board can be painted from the inside. In this case, the green color. Further, our board to be glued to the "deck". Note that since the surface of the gluing plane is a curve, it is best to stick first side in the middle, and when the adhesive fix board alternately glued nose and then feed. Care should be taken to when gluing boards antithesis ports were strictly opposite to each other. Rather, all you have outside board formed some wrinkles - wrinkles. They should be cut sharp blade or cutter and again to give the surface contours of the vessel identical theoretical drawings and then sanded very fine sandpaper to places where there were cuts. To remove formed on the surface of the board, "velvet" I paste on top of a strip of paper that is identical to the tracing paper - is being applied, this paper becomes more supple and well-fitting curved surfaces. Once everything is dry cut off all unnecessary below. Then paste the rectangular piece of cardboard into the end of our

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

7/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners deck, from which later form the stern. then cut the shell (see photo, you can strip all of the same family). These sinks and closets are located in front of them from the inside bead pasted into place. Once the glue is dry scissors forming the outline of the stern.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

8/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

9/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

10/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Next, cut out of cardboard and the vessel There wheel and glued them into the slots in the housing. Manufacture base which will be attached our ship in a bottle. Use the remnants of our universal wooden superlineyki. Put on her body model and drill through earlydrilled holes for pins in the deck corresponding holes in the workpiece to the base. Making of a cylindrical workpiece sharpened on one side pins and glued them to the base of the preform. When the glue dries connect body of the model and the length of the line and using the body as a template to draw a line cut casing. In fact, this waterline. Delineated by a line cutter remove all unnecessary, again connect body and base, and finally align between these two elements. Now you can paint the white paint line port (it is possible to paint and the whole board, and later will go to the black paint on the white), and the base of the copper paint simulating underwater casing with copper sheets. While the paint dries, let us sharp noodles. So I call very narrow strips of paper. Cut strips are comfortable using the blade and metal ruler. We will need a strip of thick drawing paper width slightly more than the thickness of the cardboard from which made ​ t he long side and a little more than two lengths of the bulwark. This will be the gunwale. It should paint on all sides with black paint. As well, we need a very narrow strip elements latrine and stern. They are best cut of thin strong paper. for this purpose very suitable checks, for example, those which give automatic payment provider. Cut a few thin strips of maximum paint paint them in gold or bronze and just leave to dry. When the white paint on the body is dry, paint the lower part of it black. In order to obtain a uniform border of flowers, you can use a strip of masking tape, or do the following: soak with white glue section of black cotton thread. When the glue dries, the thread will be stiff like a wire. A piece of thread must be glued on board just at the lower end lines and ports after the glue dries, you can paint the model. Since the model is sufficiently small, the paint can be applied with a brush, and for the larger models of course better to use a spray or airbrush. Now for a latrine. Stick on each side by two painted in gold bars - knitsy latrine. In principle, these strips can simply draw a fine brush, but the use of the method of application allows you to get a much more accurate model. Between them drilled anchor fairleads. Next, cut out two cardboard wedge element - it will be planked space between the attachment figure latrine and upper Regel. You can also paste elements that mimic frames Regel. It all depends on your ability and whether to do a nose shape with kramboly KNITs, anchors, etc. - Your decision. I'm on this model, do not be. now of narrow wooden strips cut out and glue them ruslenya into place (again, for all sorts of relatively long strips and bars if you do not have mini -tsirkulyarki convenient to use bamboo, it is well split into chips and to make it possible to very thin). If the model you test and you are not confident in their abilities that ruslenya, as well as some other elements can not be made. Ruslenya and elements latrine paint with black paint.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

11/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

12/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now enough of the creative work - food and sinks. Main - an imitation of the window frames and decor. Window frames can be made in two ways - from the fine white-painted fibers or wires by applications "by hand", or draw on a computer, printed on high-quality but not thick paper, cut and paste. The first method I use on expensive models where it is necessary to emphasize manual labor, the second method gives more accurate results on small-scale models. Of course if you intend to continue to engage in the construction of models of ships in bottles makes sense to draw a box with different shapes, with different slopes and the distance between them and print on a single sheet with different sizes. Then just cut the most suitable window size you are using and on the model. Decor stern imitate in part by gold-dyed "noodles", partially paint brush. Draw on such a scale that a specific rather difficult, so we can restrict ourselves to start some squiggles. The process itself is shown in the accompanying photos, as well as an example, cite the stern early built corvette "Olivutsa" and frigate "Pallada".

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

13/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

And now let's deck, or rather all those that therein is. So, in order: make and place on the deck pyatners bowsprit with kofelnagelnoy strip (under it, and under Bitsy pre drill holes in the deck), bitt with spreader, fore-hatches, hatch grotto produce but not sticking and is deposited in a safe place, Beets, booms (I made them as simple as possible), the spire, the vestibule, skylight, hatch in Brotcamera. Helm I do on this model did not work because of the tediousness and descriptions. Hatches I pasted on the perimeter black "noodles" that simulates stacked core. On the underwater part of the hull in places which are located under the mast needs to be done to deepen (I made them a spherical cutter). It is necessary that's why. It may happen that in the process of assembling a ship in a bottle, you can not cut coming out at this point of the deck thread exactly flush with the underside of the case and you will have to stick a small piece. Then in the future you have a gap between the surface and underwater parts. Sample pits in places out of threads allow it to prevent .Now turn came to guns. In this model, I propose to make them as simple as possible as well. The method of manufacture is shown in the photo. If this seems primitive, can be a bit more of a challenge and do both at the nearby photo. Place the guns in their places on the deck and our body is almost ready. I want to note that in the work of gluing small parts, I prefer to use instant glue gel.

The following figure shows the simplest technology for manufacturing boats (boats in our case).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

14/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

After finishing work on the hull and rigging Let us. In my opinion, rude and primitive rigging rigging can spoil the impression of a model with a well made ​ b ody. On the other hand, if you make the mast too thin and fragile, the probability of its failure in the assembly in the bottle, especially when pushing the folded ship through the neck. Conclusion: The mast ship kills. try to find a "middle ground" for this turn to the arithmetic. We use the difficulty distinguished naval architect Colonel Alexei Zenkova. (Thanks to the efforts of Valery Puchkova these things description has been made ​ available as a reprint edition in our time). In order to simplify your work to turn the table on p. 87 It is easy to verify that the dimensions of the brig Phoenix are very close to our Mercury, and hence the size of the mast they are comparable. We will increasingly interested in the thickness of masts and vian Jews. In this case we start from a maximum thickness, ie mast - at the bottom of them, and for vian Jews - in the middle. So, made ​ me brig has a scale of 1: 640. According Zenkov thickness mainmast was 23 inches, ie 584 mm. (At the present figure the thickness of the mainmast of 500 mm.) Thickness mast was 13 inches or 330 mm. The thickness of the main-yard 13 1/2 inches or 343mm. Moving to my scale, I get that the maximum thickness of the mainmast should reach 0.9 mm, thickness topmast - 0.5 mm and the thickness of the main-yard - 0.53 mm. The thickness of the rest of the mast natural proportionately less. This theoretical dimensions to aim for. In

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

15/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners practice, working with bamboo came to some optimal parameters for yourself (of course, each of them can choose for himself, depending on the extent of his skill). As a result, in practice, I have thick masts manufactured Mercury were: mainmast - 1.2 mm (fore mast less); topmast 0.7 mm; cave monasteries 0.8mm. What is the actual error - judge for yourself. So, to business. Bamboo sliver rasp until it reaches a cylindrical shape with a diameter slightly larger than the maximum required (the thickness of the mainmast in our case). In principle, if there is no bamboo and happiness you want, you can use the matches. Next, lay off on the workpiece length of the mainmast from the deck and attach to this segment is slightly tapered. This can be done by using a very fine sandpaper, holding the workpiece in the chuck mini drills. Cut off our mast and attach topu square cross-section. In the same way we make the bowsprit (its thickness for the brigs was Zenkov on the arithmetic mean between the thicknesses grotand foremast) and foremast, topmasts, yards, gaff, boom, jib-boom, boom-Martin. (In our model, and propose to make a jib-boom boom-jib-boom into a single tree). Rei do spindle and mast can be done purely cylindrical without thinning it in our scale is not true. Rhea paint black paint, everything else is bathed in stained. Once dry, continue to work with the mast. Square section top should start to do with the place where are the Long-Saling. On both sides of the base top sticking Superglue two very thin rectangular in cross-section wedges - our Long Saling, although they are almost invisible on the model, structurally they are needed, they will be based on Mars. Over the Long-Saling tied round top filament sections that will simulate the guys. The length of this segment should be approximately the length of the guy in the drawing multiplied by two, plus two inches. Top mast similarly bind finer yarn - Wall-guy (for our model only three) as well as another longer thread - Wallforduny. They are calculated in the same length of the lower shrouds. To guys are not much stood out on the verge of the masthead which faces the topmast and the mast on the basis of the most must be made ​ o f the recess, then the further gluing the top of the mast and the mast base will be in contact (actually on the courts it was not so, but for us it is important to constructively as it is at the place of contact glue joint). From the same board as the board according to the drawing cut out mars. To give them greater strength can be imbued with their lower surface with superglue. To topmast glue topgallant-mast, and on Long Saling impose and glue Mars. After that, glue the mast and mast with the already glued topgallant. Now imitate ezelgofty for this in the appropriate places wrap around top and jumper strips of paper-thin white noodles smeared with glue. Enough to make 2-3 turns. Similarly imitate mastheads and only do a few more turns. At this scale, it is really to make the "right" Saling, ie consisting of both on a real ship from the spreaders and Long Saling wiring topgallant guys, but it's not for the initial model. Under ezelgoftami between the top and topmast drill fine holes - they will mimic the thread is passed topenanty. now one element that will meet and on, so I will describe it separately. I call it the "ring" and is used for wiring running rigging. Ring is made ​ from the finest yarns. If not, then you can dissolve the silk or synthetic fibers and yarn to make a ring of twisted fibers. We fix in a vise or "third hand" pin (needle, drill or wire) diameter 0.2 - 0.4 mm. Make a thread around two turns and knit a simple knot. Put on the ring formed around the pin a little second adhesive. Immediately clasping forceps on both sides move the ring pin down - that we do not give the ring stick to the pin around which it is tied. In this case, the glue will soak into the ring itself and it will be tough. Care should be taken that the glue did not get to the thread extending from the end of a hand, or they too will solidify and will be uncomfortable to knit. Then remove the pins from the finished ring with strings - strings. The manufactured by the above method is tied to the ring topu foremast, it will be used for wiring the main-topsail Brasov. In principle, they can be simply glued to topu, but the use of such rings, imitating blocks gives the model a certain accuracy and higher reliability.

Binding vian Jews. Around the middle of Korea banded segment filament length of 4-5 cm. Doing the top one or two nodes and bind to the mast or topmast. Node fix PVA glue, cut off the ends. With lower reyami differently. First sticking turns topmast shrouds to the end edge of Mars. Then fix the mast in the "third hand" and the free end of the wall, the guys that will simulate putens shrouds conduct between the lower shrouds to the mast. It binds up "mustaches" thread attachment of the lower yard. Tighten the knot and tighten the ends of the threads-putens guys. We fix all the glue and until the glue has dried completely stretch the putens shrouds. It's pretty dreary operation and if not yet have enough experience or patience then you can just cut off the ends of the walls glued-guys at the bottom edge of Mars. Clay should not fall on the nodes thread between the mast and Ray, they serve as a hinge and must be able to rotate and fold reyam along steneg. Mars will not interfere with the yard laid along the bottom of the mast and the angle between them was the minimum necessary to make the leading edge of Mars more narrow, and the number of nodes, joints between Ray and mast I do usually equal to three. 're Replace the gaff and boom and our mast will be ready . To install the gaff and Martin-geeks, I use the following method: split the base gaff sharp blade into two parts so that both sides of the base were somewhat divorced. In the insert slot and sticking with superglue two lengths of thin filaments with a length of about two centimeters. Tweezers to squeeze the edge of the base so that they are connected to each other by holding the ends of the strands. Once the glue dries gaff using emerging from his "whiskers" tied to the mast and boom-Martin to a bowsprit. Node is fixed with white glue, the ends are cut off. Pole split similarly, but the gap is not glue in two short and one long thread. After placing the ship in a bottle, this thread should be a few inches out of the bottle.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

16/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now equip our yards running rigging. On the selection and preparation of the thread has already been said a lot, I have only one recommendation - make it a rule: standing rigging -Black; running rigging - light brown, beige, straw, but as not white. Overall strategy when posting rigging on a model sailboat in a bottle - find the golden mean between two extremes: on the one hand to carry out simulation wiring rigging as accurately as possible, taking into account the historical period and national Facilities vessel, on the other hand to minimize the number of nodes, loops, strands emerging from the bottle to achieve maximum accuracy and perception scale of the final result of your work. (Eco I wrapped, already frightened myself). Next I give an example wiring diagram rigging of the brig. Anyone can optimize it at its discretion and in accordance with their abilities. So let's start from the stern. Under the main-topmast Saling to tie thread. Next, one end tied to a gaff about 5.2 from its base as in the drawing giving gaff corresponding slope, then split the blade knock gaff, inserted into the slot and the other end of the thread to seal it. Avoiding node obtain a cleaner knock.

Grotto yard. With the help of a single strand of simulating the main-topenanty and main-topsail Brail. Thread to tie a knot at the Knock Korea, then one end through the hole in the conduct top between the mast and topmast, further to the antithesis noku Korea and there go around it and knit a simple knot but do not tighten it. Other end of the envelope thread securing the maintopsail yard to the topmast and conduct an end to this antithesis noku and are passing the loose knot (as pictured). Now tighten the node so that it lay on its place in the Knock Korea and topenant tight. Now you can pull and slide the end into a knot and imitating Goth Mars -gitovy. Fix a second node droplet of adhesive. Now braces. At the bottom vian Jews will make them double, ie will simulate the block. The simplest way to simulate the block - link the two threads per node to put a drop of glue and after drying paint "under the tree." For those who are willing to make the model more interesting I recommend reading a note on the site about the small blocks. There's about all it is written. I have this model and entered. Two segments of the thread between the strips pasted-cheeked, cut, tied a thread-sling and got double braces (see. Fautua). Braces bind to the NOCs Korea and believe that with him gone.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

17/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Main-topsail yard. Everything is the same, only the braces on this model it is possible to make a single, ie simply bind to the NOCs filament sections. And consider that this brig grotto braces directed towards the stern, and all other braces vian Jews mainmast directed to the bow. Rigging main-topgallant-yard and main-boom-topgallant-yard of the same. Topenanty due to the simplified model does not simulate, and show only Brail sails single braces. Posting rigging on the foremast similar, but all the braces look aft. Stays For convenience, I prefer to mount as gluing sails to the yard as will be discussed further .

Finished with masts move to a bowsprit. On it should be discussed separately. In principle, making it

the bowsprit took me a little over an hour, but I'm afraid there will be many scribbling. Before talk about the "eyelet". In fact, it's the same ring, but a little differently. Loop I use for posting on the forestay and bowsprit is made ​ in the following way. Thread segment corresponding strut thickness folded in half and tie a simple knot. Do not tighten the knot, resulting in one side loop insert pin, needle or piece of wire with a diameter slightly larger than the forestay, which is planned to pull through the loop (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

18/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now with tweezers or needle move the other node adjacent to the needle threaded in a loop. Now pull apart the ends of the thread and finally tighten a knot on the needle. It turns out the two ends of a loop that will continue fasten around the bowsprit and jib-boom. I will give an approximate algorithm for the manufacture of the bowsprit, bearing in mind that the model will be equipped with double forestay, as well as that the jib-boom and boom-jib-boom for some simplification will be a tree. So cut out of bamboo slivers blank bowsprit, jib-boom with boom-jib-boom (in the future I will write a jib-boom), Blind-yard and Martin-boom. Jacuzzi in the mordant. With Martin-geek do the same as with the gaff, ie Fasten his mustache. Bowsprit paste it in place in the hull of the vessel and in a place where it is attached to the bulwarks of the tank makes a mark with a pencil. This will place the anchor grotto headstay. Stepping above 1.5 mm tie loop for wiring the main-moose forestay. Further, according to the drawing outline the place to anchor Watery-runners. Section of thick thread tied round the bowsprit, knot tighten .. The ends of the filament are looking in different directions in the horizontal plane of the bowsprit. A similar segment strands bind in close so that the ends viewed in different directions in a vertical plane. Node fix glue, cut the upper end, a lower end, we first simulates vatershtag. Then here we tie Blind's monasteries like the yard to the mast. The three formed a node not played much over the top surface of the bowsprit, before tying do on the bowsprit top notch for small knots, and after tying the forestay and Korea and glue formed all three nodes are squeezed from above and below with tweezers (see. Fautua). Now departing approximately 1 mm from the edge top of the bowsprit tie martin pole, assembly fix glue, cut off the ends of his mustache. Now paste the jib-boom from above (see. Pictured).

Next produce ezelgoft as well as on the masts. At the very ezelgofta between the mast and bowsprit drill hole. Make a loop, is placed on top jib-boom ends loops from different sides are passing into the drill hole and tied around the bowsprit. Node fix glue, cut off one end, the other end will simulate the second round-shots forestay. On the jib-boom defer about half the distance from the ezelgofta to Nock and in this place tie cut a thin thread, the ends of his need to look in different directions - it will jib-boom runners. We carry them to the yard-Blind's, is tied around it on both sides, tighten, tighten and fix nodes. All this can be done easily by holding the bowsprit of one of the terminals of "third hand." Immediately behind runners tie a loop knot, and tied the ends of her need to look down. This will be the forestay jib-boom-and continued the oddstopgallant forestay (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

19/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now do the same for Knock jib-boom, boom-mimicking jib-boom-runners, fore-topgallant-bom-bom-forestay and jib-boom-forestay. Now all these ends must be secured to the boom-Martin. A cleaner way - split it along the blade in two and paste between them Stays. However, this method requires some practice. Therefore, I propose to fix Stays on the boom-Martin nodes. Banded nityu- jibboom-headstay around Martin-boom assembly into it on the other side are passing one of the threads from the jib-boom Nock, assembly tighten the thread so that it is tight. Stretch the thread that runs through the site. Node itself shifts slightly downward along the Martin-boom, it will give additional stretch both strands and then expand fix glue. One thread is cut, and the other to conduct the bowsprit. Do the same with the threads of the jib-boom Nock and knit them on the boom-Martin below the preceding. One thread just to pull the bowsprit and we catch together with previous similar from different sides of the bowsprit segment thread. Another thread is not cut off, and below it another bind the same. These two threads we will fix later on the ship's hull is bifurcated portion jib-boom or headstay Martin-runners (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

20/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Next install the bowsprit to the model. Here are a couple of tricks that should be described as how you can use them on their future models. All gear coming from the bowsprit and jib-boom to the board model can be divided into two parts which are mounted above the deck and below deck. Connection of the first drill a hole in the bulwark commensurate with the diameter of the thread the wires through a tackle and fix her instant glue, once the end of the board cut the inside. For mounting gear that attach to the board below deck using two ways: simply drill a through hole that goes under the deck, ie, on the underside of the polumodeli. Next thread

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

21/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners is passed through the hole, fixed with glue and once the end is cut off. If you want to make the model more professional thread can be mounted at the side by a butt. For the manufacture of butt I use one core of a multicore electrical wire. Clamped in a "third hand" sverlyshko or needle the diameter equal to the inner diameter manufactured obushka. Wrap around the drill core length of wire and twist the ends together. Leave the tail length of about 2 mm in the rest of the circumcision. Obushok ready (see. Pictured).

Now drill holes in the sides of the model under the tackle and O-Rings. As another hole in the stem for attaching vatershtagov. Strengthen with glue O-Rings in the board (see. Pictured). In this model, as an example I will strengthen them in the martin pole runners. Although in this case it is possible to do without the lugs and drill holes in the side of a little angle from the bottom up and bring this gear on deck. Strengthens the bowsprit on the model with the help of glue. Wires through the eyebolts thread martin pole runners to tie and stretch them. Nodes fix Superglue, extra ends are cut off. Then hold the holes vaterbakshtagi and strengthen them. In conclusion, strengthen with glue jib-boom-boom-runners and runners-jib-boom. Remained fixed on the stem Watery headstay. To do this, perform the drilled hole section of the thread, to make it turn around the stem and then wire into the hole. Knotted the other end of this segment filament assembly but do not tighten. In the resulting double loop spend vatershtagi, knot tightens and put on him a drop of superglue. Until the glue dried up quickly again tightens the ends of the mounting thread to finally dragged node and pull the thread vatershtagov that they were stretched. After solidification cut off all unnecessary (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

22/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

This is just one of the ways to mount vatershtagov, but in my opinion it provides a fairly accurate results (see. Pictured). Now we have a case with a bowsprit installed.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

23/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now for the manufacture and installation of sails. They can be made ​ o f paper or fabric. In the latter case, the thin cloth impregnated with PVA solution and acquires the properties of thick paper. Draw a sharpened pencil parallel lines simulating joints paintings. Then applied our mast with attached reyami and pencil on paper, cloth or put the points corresponding to the corners of the sail. To sail on later models look natural, ie were inflated, they need to do a bit longer and wider than the bottom. To this point the appropriate clew corners sails pass by about 0.7-1.0 mm below and to the side. Next traceable sails, we draw on these FTA-bows, Perth and then cut out those sails. At the ends of the cloth sails can be glued thread simulates liktros. In fact it is quite easy, you need only a little practice. In this case the clew corners circumcision glued thread reserve of 2-3 mm. On the upper leech liktros can not glue at all. To inflate the bottom of the sail, Sail Battens in their glue in the corners of the thread simulating Brail. In this case, I made ​ t he rounds of the double, and a bundle of brown colored gouache - an imitation of the block. Gluing one end of the thread in clew, and allow the glue to dry up, flex sail and glue to the upper leech the other end (or two ends if Brail double). So do the other clew angle, eventually sail will be curved. Now successively from the bottom of the sail to the corresponding glue reyam. Paste the tie grot- topsails and fore-topmast-Stays. I made ​ t hem single. Next, gluing and sticking bramsails tie thread imitating topgallant forduny and main-topgallant - main-topgallant-forestay. Fore topgallant forestay not sticking. Next sticking bom-bramsails, bom-topgallant forduny, bom-topgallant Stays. Just generally I then pasting Sail Battens angles (thread liktrosa that protrude from the clew corners) bom-bramsails to those places where the strands are tied to imitate Brail noku topgallant-vian Jews. Usually bram- and bom-topgallant yards short enough and pass through the neck of the bottle without being rotated pressed to the topmast. Sail Battens and corners bramsails bom-bramsails later with tweezers and other tools will be glued to the NOCs downstream vian Jews already in the bottle. now remains to be drilled in the bottom ends of the mast hole and glue them in the thread. With the help of these threads in a bottle mast will be installed in its place. Subtotal work - see picture.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

24/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now it is time to set our ship on "berth". First, are passing the thread coming from the lower ends of the poles into the holes on the deck. Then screw strengthen the hull on a stand. (Maybe everyone has their own design). We fix the mainmast in a vertical position. Now turn to the first guy sticking ruslenyu then to the thread-barhoutu that separates a white board cannon from the underlying black. (See. Pictured) Now we stick to the boom-boom thread simulates topenanty and the ends of her conduct on both sides in the "dog hole" of Mars are bent and sticking to the upper surface of Mars. The ends are then paint the black paint and they will not be seen on Mars. Next glue to noku gaff and boom flag halyard. Draw flag. I usually draw gouache on the same fabric from which made the sails, although it can be done on paper. Flag I draw no clear rectangular and slightly inclined with wavy borders. After drying tweezers attach additional flag ripple and pasting it to the flag halyard. Further, similar to the guys sticking forduny and then cut off the excess lengths of filaments at the guys and fordun. Just clipped the ends of the strands that protrude from the clew corners sails leaving as much as you need to glue them to noku yard located below. Now tie the thickest string to the base of the bowsprit - it will be a double main-forestay. Produce a ring of filaments and are passing it the free end of the forestay. Ring must be of such a diameter that the main-forestay could enter it twice. Next are passing the free end of the forestay through the "dog hole" on Mars, carried around the top of the mainmast, again through Mars, once again are passing through the ring and to conduct eyelet on the bowsprit near the site of the grotto where the forestay is attached. Thus we simulated Ogon grotto headstay and made it moving this will allow us to install and subsequently raise the mainmast (see photo).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

25/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now the preparation of the bottle to "zapuzyrivaniyu." If you have a bottle of vodka, then inside it should not be washed, it is quite clean. Better to close it with a fuse and putting it in hot water to wash off the label and glue underneath. If the label of the film, it can be gently peel angle hooked knife, glue and then rinse solvent. The manufacturing process of the sea has been discussed on the forum so I will only briefly describe one of the ways. Using epoxy resin. Tint it a drop of green paint from the core of a ballpoint pen. Hardener to pour a little less than that frozen epoxy had some elasticity. I'm doing this because of the fact that the glass and solidified resin have a different coefficient of thermal expansion, and I have had cases where due to temperature drop bottle just split the resin and the resin inside the contrary fell off from the walls of the bottle. Just to correct this, you can add to the resin when kneading a little alcohol or other strong alcohol. In the finished bottle pour resin I with a syringe and the tube section of the dropper. By doing this we postpone the bottle aside for curing resin periodically checking the special tool with a ball on the end of the degree of hardening. Now you can do the ship or just a nip of tea but it is important not to miss the moment when it is well frozen but still more elastic - you can now generate a wave all the same tool with a ball on the end we press on the surface of the epoxy and make a smooth plane of the raging sea . At first, our wave will settle and flatten, but the time will come when all the same on the surface will be bumps and ripples. This is what we need. Around the same time, put in a bottle and some dent in the surface of the resin base - the underwater part of our ship. It is important that the resin was thus not too thin, or the base can fully "drown", and we need to make it towered about 0.5 - 1 mm (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

26/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Returning to the ship Let us fore-mast. Strengthen its similar to the mainmast and sticking to the guys and forduny ruslenyam. Now set up a stand to work with fixing the forestay. I just stand on its lowered and rotated 180 degrees, "poker" which recorded the first mast. Stays will be threading into their tabs on the bowsprit and the free ends alternately wound between the saw cuts in "the poker." Posting furling forestay is completely analogous to the main-strut. Thread simulates the main-topmast forestay-miss in a dog hole fore-topsail further threaded through a ring-furling forestay and conducting loop through the main-forestay (see. Pictured). In a simplified version can never do-furling forestay, and to hold the thread main-topmast-forestay from the fore-topsail to the eyelet furling headstay imitated thus this thread and jib, forestay. Further, the higher the thread main-topgallant-forestay conduct by Vor mastheads are passing into the fire which is formed when attaching fore-topmast-forestay and passed through the loop located in the middle of a jib-boom. In the same loop are passing and thread the main-boom-topgallant forestay, conducted by its fore-topmast and making her turn around. Thread fore-topmast-forestay is passed through the loop below, in ezelgofta bowsprit. Finally thread the odds-bom-topgallant forestay wires through the loop on the Knock jib-boom. As already mentioned the free ends of the filaments headstay fix on a stand so that all Stays were taut and set both the mast in a natural upright position.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

27/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now do not forget to check the epoxy go to the wiring Brasov. To anyone not to be confused with the upwind and downwind say that in our case the main-topsail and -bram -bom-topgallant-vian Jews will first need to pull the braces near us right NOCs, while vian Jews foremast first drag braces left NOCs. Thread ends fix glue as shown in the photo with the utmost care - the glue must not get to the other gear, especially topenanty, otherwise they are glued to anything not allow reyam shape. Braces jib-yard pairwise one end of the wire under the main-gammon, through hole through which the guys are sticking and pulling the top of Mars, and the other end sticking a ring under the bottom of the mainmast forestay, which will be fixed in the process of folding, ie according to the drawing to the main-strut and not to the main-moose-strut, which in the assembly process will last through the loop on the bowsprit. Stretching braces produce pennant. Connect two lengths of thin filaments or fibers on the one hand and glue the corners of the pennant, and the other ends it must be tied to topu main-topgallant pre giving pennant with tweezers undulations.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

28/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

If you have confidence that the boat will not prevent you fold the mast, you can glue it into place on the deck. 're glued to the ends of the top guys and rusleney fordun narrow strip of dense Paper "noodles" and paint them black. Also, if in the course of work has fallen off or soiled glue black paint body, can be put on top of another layer of brush. now work on the assembly model can be considered complete.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

29/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

And now the final stage of assembly. Adds the ship. To omit this little rings on grot- and the headstay, and took a pair of tweezers for the thread about the corresponding loops from the first tank pull their way towards the ends of the mast, ie produce action forestay tension of opposites, and then pull the root ends of the strut, so to dissolve and increase the loop, which constitutes around the mast thread simulates the forestay. This makes it possible to tilt the mast towards the stern. Relax the tension of the rest of the forestay and gradually tilted mast. Fully tilt will not give them the thread Brasov. In order to still lay close to the deck must now take a pair of tweezers from the base of the mast at deck and gently pull to the side of the bow. This must be done first with the form and then with the mainmast. Gone are the base of both towers to the tank can now maximize their inclination towards the stern (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

30/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

If this fails you need to calmly and carefully to see which threads natyanuvshis do not give the maximum slope and try pushing the mainmast forward a few more to fix the problem. In this case, everything worked out, although there was a maximum tension of the main-marsa- and main-topgallant-Brasov. If, nevertheless, some threads are not allowed Collapsed completely necessary to postpone the assembly in the bottle and replace the "blind", ie glued on both sides to the mast on the thread "of running", ie thread is long, for example glued to noku Korea and then discharged from the bottle and the other end is glued to the right place already directly inside the bottle and cut off the excess. It is a general principle of solving the problem, and in each case, its implementation can of course be different. now turn to the lower and topsail yards pressing them to the mast and get something that everyone can remind about something his own, as they say in the corruption measure. Folded ship start gently and slowly to push through the neck consistently pressing and putting the center sticking gnocchi (see. Pictured). At this stage, it is necessary to devote special attention and accuracy because if it passes through the neck of anything broken, then fix the bottle is extremely difficult. Particular attention should be paid to the bowsprit - at this point it is just as easy to break. If you feel that something is broken, it is best to get the ship to fix (which will have a fairly lengthy process) and try again. What should I do if the ship is not particularly climbs in the neck? Very simple. It is not necessary to torment the ship. Look for a bottle with a wide neck, make another one underneath - the base, fill with epoxy and keep reading. now a tool tip which is shown in the photo are starting to spread folded mast. First a little raise a mast unfold yards. Then come up against the groove on the end of the tool into the thread of the base of the mast at the point where the thread comes out of the hole from the bottom of the deck - thus creating a focus and pull in this thread. It will draw the base of the mast to the place on the deck where the base should be. Now pull the strings - grot- and the headstay and finally set the mast in a vertical position. At this point, it is likely that the knock yard or mast can catch on any thread and not allow the mast to get right. If this happens you need to loosen the thread tension slightly-tilted mast forestay again and release caught on knock. When mast mounted start gluing and cutting ... I put glue with a long wire, bending it as needed to bring the adhesive to the desired point. Two basic rules: before applying the glue flex wire and try to touch the end of its desired point without glue, if all is well, the end would not hurt, and work comfortably, then repeat the operation already with glue. Second - when passing the end of the wire with a drop of glue through the neck to make sure that does not hurt for passing through this neck of the thread, or the thread does not see it may stick to each other, the glue dries and you grow new problems. So, apply the adhesive to the thread coming out of the boom at its base, pull in this thread - the boom base abuts the mainmast and sticking to it. After the glue has dried cut the thread cross cutter (see. Pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

31/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

I'm in the process of putting the ship in a bottle fell off the boat. It happens. How to put it in place? At the end of all of the same wire sculpt a piece of clay or putty flex as it should, to sculpt Velcro boat in position and try if it will carry through her ​ neck and set in place. If it turns out such other wire, glue is applied to the keel blocks and the boat itself is set in place. After a short while until the adhesive sets, neatly severing the wire end with Velcro on the boat and the problem is solved (see. Pictured). the contact points between the mast to the deck we put glue and after drying cut the bottom deck of the thread coming out of

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

32/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners the masts longitudinal cutter (see. pictured).

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

33/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

Now, for the convenience of further work is glued to the bottom of the ship, which we bricked in a "sea". In order to press tightly against the upper portion to the lower I use a special "power" tool that I run into the deck. In this case, again, it is necessary to comply with the increased care not to break anything on the ship. Next alternately stretch the yarn forestay and sticking them, causing a drop of glue in the passage of the forestay through the loop on the bowsprit. Ends of the thread coming out of the loops cut cross cutter. Making this work alternately starting from the bottom and from the stern glue filament sections emerging from the clew corners of sails to the NOCs vian Jews downstream. Thus the edge of becoming an arcuate bend sails and sails "inflated by the wind."

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

34/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

When you have finished this, you can finally shout "hurray" - ready to ship. now remains to rearrange our (and your) diamond in its proper frame. To start with the neck and cork. The neck in the area of the thread of the plug, I usually wind the rough twine or putting decorative braid. In order to lay down a pre-braid evenly around the neck thread I do turn a strip of cloth soaked with glue (see. Pictured). As I used the cork stopper from his favorite champagne Sause its inner diameter knife. Walnut made ​ a stand and strengthened her brass plate with the name of the ship. All fenite la Comedie. PIOMH drink, brag to friends. PS I'm afraid overloaded description maritime terms, having beaten anyone has a desire to do this, but without knowing the device makes no sense to take the ship to build it, so that the construction of such a simple model will help you to have a master osnosnye terms from the device sailing Korab. Moreover, all these names are shown in the drawings Annotated laid out here early.

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

35/36

8/20/2014

Build a ship in a bottle for beginners

http://www.shipinthebottle.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4%3A2010-01-28-10-39-59&catid=9%3Amaster-class&Itemid=3&lang=en

36/36