HOW TO MAKE AND EARN FROM HAND MADE By LIQUID SOAP-Step-bystep Guide Agwu IYKE Samson
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Washing soaps are very important in the maintenance of personal hygiene and the general cleanliness of the environment. The demand for liquid soaps will continue to increase as far as washing of plates in the kitchen, clothes and scrubbing of floor etc. at home and in the factory is concern. To make liquid soap at home and generate cool money, you need the following: Capital Needed to Make Liquid Soap: You can make liquid soap with at least N20, 000. N10, 000 for raw materials and N10, 000 for equipment but this amount depends on the scale at which you can produce. If you want to make liquid soap on a large scale you will need more capital, registration with relevant government agency like NAFDAC of Nigeria (National Administration for Food And Drugs Control), and buy expensive equipment. Production Equipment Needed to Make Liquid Soap: Steel tank or plastic drum Wooden stirrer or blending tank/mixer fitted with stirrer if you can afford it. Weighing scale Hydrometer/thermometer Hand gloves Packaging materials (plastic containers with measurement in cl or litre).
Labels for branding Raw Materials Needed to Make Liquid Soap: Groundnut oil or palm kernel oil or coconut oil Caustic soda Sodium silicate (P84) Dye/colorant Fragrance (to remove odor) Diorites to be added when producing anti-septic soap. Safety Equipment Needed to Make Liquid Soap: Before you start to make liquid soap, please put on the following safety gadgets on, to prevent chemical’s accidents, like chemical coming in contact with the eyes and body. Eye Google Hand gloves Safety shoes
Production Process Required to Make Liquid Soap The Liquid Soap Recipe - Get 366g of coconut oil, then 1424g of Potassium Hydroxide, and 1204g of pure water. These are the recipe for the liquid soap we are going to discuss about in this procedure. Once you have them down, its time to get started with the process of making the liquid soap.
In this method, we are going to use a double boiler system, that is using two pots for the boiler, one will be smaller than the other, the handler on the top pot hold it suspended over the bottom one such that when the top pot is in on it, the water level will be over the top pot. See picture below.
Then add the Potassium Hydroxide on the pot on top. When you add the potassium hydroxide it will sound like it is going to explode or boil over, even though the water on the bottom pot does not bubble at all and doesn’t even heat as much as the sodium hydroxide so don’t worry, it’s the normal process. When mixing water and potassium hydroxide together and when mixing the soap there will seems to be a very caustic steam that comes from the mixture. When making liquid soap, always wear long sleeves and gloves otherwise your skin begins to burn due to the heat and the chemical released.
a. Pre-heat the water in the bottom of your double boiler. b. Heat and mix your oils and fats like you normally would for CP, using the temperatures of 160 degree for the oils and 140 degree for the potassium/water mixture, they will get to these temperatures very fast so be ready with your hot water in the bottom of your double boiler when you start. See picture below, notice the thermometer inside the pot.
Try to bring your soap to trace, which even with a stick blender is pretty long. It will go though few stages before it hardens into your paste. It will also keep trying to separate, but keep mixing it until it is VERY VERY thick like thick custard or maybe a meringue. Tip: Try to keep your soap as close to 160 degree as you can, if you go over 160 your soap will boil up over the top of the pot, but
much less than 160 and your soap will take forever to trace. So let it be within 160 degree. Look at the sample below: This is not trace, just a good imitation. It has to get much thicker than this. If you stopped at this point your soap would separate and that wouldn’t be good.
How about this on the picture below? Nope, this isn’t it either, keep going, its not yet at the point we want.
I’m not sure you can tell by this picture, but at some point your soap may look sort of grainy and like it is separating. When that happens, just keep going it is normal in a case like this. Keep going, don’t mind it. Look at the picture below! Now this is a stage you want you have to look out for. This is what your soap looks like just before it starts to puff up and out of the pot. What happens is that the soap gets too hot (you notice that it is in the double boiler) and it doubles in size or begin to rise.
If you see this start happening get your pot into your sink and let it cool off. Have a sprayer in your sink and use it on cold and spray the outside of the pot. As long as the pot was too hot, you could not stir it down. However using a sprayer to cool the side of the pot, immediately made soap collapse back to its original size. Be aware this may happen and get yourself prepared for it. When the soap comes down to its puffy stage it collapsed into a solid mass. This is sort of what it looked like, but this is a bit
further in the process, after it has been heating for a while, but it’s just similar with the one on the picture below.
Put the soap into top of your double boiler and bring the heat up. It will make a very stiff paste, don’t bother to try and mix it, it is already far too thick. Check your mixture twice for separation 20mins apart. You have to pry the paste away from the bottom of the pot. If it has separated there will be a clear liquid on the bottom. If you find this you will have it mix up again. Keep the water in the double boiler boiling for 3hours. Make sure that your pot is covered the idea is to get it as hot as possible. After about 2 hours it will start to turn translucent, if not keep cooking it at a very fast boil until it does. Cook for 1hour after the translucent stage. It has been cooked for about 4hours before and it made a beautiful clear batch of soap like the one below.
Time for Dilution: Scrap the paste into a pot of 4820ml of water for dilution. Break it up a bit to get into manageable sized chunks. Look into the pot below, you will see it is broken into manageable pieces. That’s what I mean.
Now, slowly heat up your water/soap mixture to a medium heat and then turn it off and leave it overnight. Note that your heating has to be slowly this time. Make sure the pot is covered. If your soap is high in soft oils (which this recipe is all about) it will get a skin on it if it isn’t
covered. Once you add the borax it will fix this but until that time, keep the lid covered all of the time. If you have lots of coconut in your soap it will completely melt overnight. If it is high in soft oils (again which this recipe is) you will have to reheat it in the morning to get rid of the last of the chunks. In the morning heat up your mixture to just warm and melt any left over chunks, again making sure you keep the lid on until it warms up. The soap doesn’t have to be very hot this time. Add your neutralizer, use borax neutralizer: 5g borax and 112g water. Heat up the waste and borax mixture in the microwave (stove or any cooker) until the borax completely melts. This is harder than it sounds. Borax will not melt until it is very hot and it will become solid again as soon as it cools so you have to heat it up just before you add it to your soap. When the borax will look like when melted, in the picture below
When you add your fragrance to the soap it may cloud the soap again, but the soap will clear again as it cools. The picture below shows as it’s getting clear again after it cools.
Sulfated Castor: This recipe should give you a very clear gel like liquid soap, but to get it totally clear you have to make a soap that is at 0% superfat. You are a soap maker so you know that soap made with no superfatting will leave your skin quite dry. The only thing that will superfat this soap and not make it opaque is sulfated castor oil. It is kind of hard to get, and really if you don’t care that your soap is transparent, you will have to hunt for the sulfated castor to get what we are talking about. Add 70g of sulfated if you are using it, and fragrance and colorant. If you get the mixture too hot, you may want to wait for the solution to cool down a bit add the fragrance, otherwise it will vapourize. Let it cool and voila, liquid soap.
It seems complicated at first, but once you do it a few times it becomes much clearer. Remember what CP seemed like when we first started. What you have below is what about the final product would look like.
Liquid soap is water soluble, when you mix water and oil, the oil will turn the water white and eventually migrate out and float on top of the water. This means that if you want to superfat any oils left over it will first make your soap cloudy, eventually end up as a layer of white on top of your soap. Some people may not mind a cloudy soap and may even want the look of a superfatted liquid soap, which brings us to the next point. If you want to superfat your liquid soap, you have to use either turkey red oil (sulfated castor) which is water soluble, or add polysorbate 20 to your oils to make them water soluble. You now make liquid soap at a 0% superfat. When you add fragrance or essential oils that close to the line, your soap may turn cloudy due to the oil the in the fragrance. This will not happen if you make your soap with water soluble fragrance, but water based fragraces are just regular fragrances with polysorbate 20 in them, so you might as well add it yourself. Here is the final product, you can add 1 drop of green food coloring to the whole batch and your fragrance. By the next day
it was crystal clear, and smelled great. This is the resultant liquid soap from this process!
Finding Your Market- Selling Your Liquid Soap Now after making your liquid soap It will be majorly used for washing dishes and other kitchen utensils, for washing of clothes, scrubbing of floor, furniture and etc. To sell your soap you will need to approach retailers in your area and market place, and also some wholesalers if you are producing in large quantity. Negotiate the price which you are willing to offer it but note that this should be a price that can enable or create penetration strategy into the market, (i.e. a little percentage lower to the price of your competitors) to enable end users to buy more as it is new to the market. Make sure you have a good packaging for your product so as to attract buyers at the top level. This packaging can also create
room for skimming strategy (another type of pioneer pricing strategy and the opposite of the penetration strategy). You can also create a survey for you to know how well customers are reacting to your product.
Things You Need To Do To Avoid “Pit-Fall” And To Be Able To Maximize Your Profits: Market Testing: After the processing/production stage the next stage is to test the product in a real life setting (marketing) to determine whether the market will accept it or not. In order to have a successful test, you place on the product a brand name, packaging and a marketing program and attempts to determine geographic area chosen to represent the intended market and the result got, generalized for the entire market. Although the cost of conducting market tests is high (it is also optional), it is preferable where the risk of product failure is high. Modification Stage: the results of market test may reveal that certain changes need to be carried out on or more attributes of the product ir in the marketing mix before it is finally launched into the market. For example, the result of market test may suggest need to modify the distribution plan to include more retail outlets. Commercialization: This is the stage where the product is finally launched into the market. You must make commercialization decision on: When (time of launch) Where (geographical strategy)
How (introductory market strategy) and to Whom (target market prospects).
Agwu iyke Samson (A.k.a. Phabulouz)
A writer/blogger and an internet marketer whose aim is to set up a platform for unemployed and employed Nigerians to share ideas and disseminate information on how to make wealth and self reliance means. This motive now gave birth to the blog address www.wealthmeans.blogspot.com which currently, He’s the moderator and owner of the blog. To every readers of this e-book, you can help to promote the blog by supplying relevant information on various ways of generating wealth to this blog which will be published for free. You can also share the link to your business, website or blog page in the article you are providing. You can submit your article by contacting the author/moderator of the blog “Agwu iyke Samson.”
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