Homemade Stun Gun

Homemade Stun Gun A homemade stun gun is quite an easy hardware hack, all that is required is; 

1)A disposible camera (Perferibly a Kodak one)

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2)Soldering Iron

Step 1)First off, take off the protective plastic case of the camera. 

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Step 2)Remove the battery so you don't shock yourself.

Step 3)You'll see a little light bulb about 3/4 inch long. Carefully remove that with out destroying anything. 

Step4) You should see two pieces of copper on both sides of the bulb.(see picture, Red Circles) Solder one wire on to each one of  these, not together. 

Step5)Slap the battery back in and hold down the button, touch Step5)Slap the wires to desired object and watch the sparks fly! 

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Safety Issues

Because this isn't very safe and you have a chance of getting shocked, (personal experience) an easy way to make a protective case is to. Step1) Cut apart the hard plastic inside of a "Five Star" binder. The tough plastic is very flexible and and can just be glued 

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Step 3)You'll see a little light bulb about 3/4 inch long. Carefully remove that with out destroying anything. 

Step4) You should see two pieces of copper on both sides of the bulb.(see picture, Red Circles) Solder one wire on to each one of  these, not together. 

Step5)Slap the battery back in and hold down the button, touch Step5)Slap the wires to desired object and watch the sparks fly! 

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Safety Issues

Because this isn't very safe and you have a chance of getting shocked, (personal experience) an easy way to make a protective case is to. Step1) Cut apart the hard plastic inside of a "Five Star" binder. The tough plastic is very flexible and and can just be glued 

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together.

Step2)Cut to fit the stungun inside. Step3)Glue together. Don't forget to cut a hole for the button, cardboard works as a good depressor so you don't have to make direct contact with the button. Also slapping a cut up rubber glove over the stungun adds extra protection. 

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 As we know, There There are known knowns. There There are things things we know we know. We also know There are known unknowns. That is to say We know there are some things We do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns, The ones we don't know we don't  know 

How to build your own stun gun from schematic diagrams

So you would like to learn how to build your own stun gun? It's really not hard at all! We have rounded up the best schematic diagrams and parts lists so you can build your own stun gun. The easiest stun gun to build is based upon a 555 timer/oscillator IC. The 555 is an extremely popular and easy to find chip and costs less than $2 at your local electronics store.

With the 555 IC, an audio transformer, and a few resistors, capacitors, diodes, and transistors you can build your own cheap stun gun in just a few hours. A second stun gun design

Here is a second stun gun schematic. This circuit is more complicated and costly due to the second transformer. Instead of the 555 timer IC we have two transistors back to back acting as a multivibrator. This "chops" the direct current enough so it can travel across the magnetic field of the transformer.

This is probably the simplest and easiest stun gun to make. It also has step-by-step directions on how to build your own stun gun. Only 10 parts are needed, plus the circuit board, and you have ahomemade stun gun. Here is the circuit. It is not my original design. The author refers to it as an electric stun gun tazer , but a true "taser" shoots barbed projectiles attached to wires, which stick into the assailant's body. This circuit is a touch stun gun device.

Electric stun gun tazer By Rick Duker Never walk in fear with this one-evening project. It won't kill, but it is an effective way to say "Leave me alone!" 

Parts List

R1 = 3K3, 5% R2 = 1M, 5% C1 = .1µF, monocapacitor C2-C9 = 0.01µF 400 volt polyester capacitors D1-D8 = 1N4007, 1-kVolt diodes NE1 = Type NE-2 neon bulb Q1 = MJE521 NPN power transistor Q2 = MJE371 PNP power transistor T1 = 1200 to 8 ohm audio power transformer S1 = SPST momentary-contact, pushbutton switch Additionally: 9-volt battery clip, 10 x 5 x 2.5cm plastic case, 7.5 x 4cm perfboard or pcboard, two 8/32 x 1-1/4 bolts and nuts for electrodes, adhesive for mounting NE-1, circuit board standoffs (optional), hookup wire, solder, etc. WARNING: THIS DEVICE IS NOT A TOY! We present it for EDUCATIONAL and EXPERIMENTAL purposes ONLY. The circuit develops about 2000 volts at a respectable amperage. It can cause you pain and even damage if you become careless and touch its output terminals. The unit can also damage property as well so use it wisely. You should NEVER use the device on another person! It may not be agains the law to possess such a device in your area, but if you use it on someone you may be deemed liable a a civil and/or criminal action suit. Don't just follow the golden rule after constructing the project, instead just don't do it unto anyone. Included in the article are a number of instructions on how to build, test, and operate the tazer; all of them must be followed to the letter. Do not deviate from the procedure.

The electric stun gun tazer is a modern, portable, personalprotection appliance. It generates hight potential energy to ward off  vicious animals or other attackers. It is an aid to help exape from a potentially dangerous situation. the device develops about 2,000 volts. Higher voltages mabe be attained by adding aditional multiplier stages, but it should be noted that those stage will also increase the overal size of the unit. The tazer is very compact, being built into a small plastic case. It is powered by a single 9-volt battery, either NiCad or alkaline. (Editor's Note: the so-called 9-V NiCad actually provides only about 7.5V. Why? NiCad cells only give 1.25 per cell. 6 cells in a 9volt battery gives it 7.5V and so the Alkaline type would be a better choice). The high voltage is applied to two electrodes which require only light contact to be effective. When touched with the tazer, the victim will receive a stunning, but non-lethal jolt of electricity that will usually discourage any further encounters. The electric stun gun tazer is apower supply which consists of a micro-size regenerative amplifier/oscillator coupled to an energy multiplier section. It should not be confused with a cheap inductiontype cattle prods. The tazer is more versatile than other highvoltage stun devices currently being sold. Those devices are basically high-voltage, AC generators which jam the nervous system. However, the tazer may be used for heating and burning applications, or anywhere a high voltage DC supply is required. How it Works:

Refering to the schematic diagram, the two power transistors Q1 and Q2, form a regenerative amplifier operating as a power oscillator. When Q1 turns on, Q2 turns on and that shorts the power supply across the primary of T1. That current pulse induces a high voltage in the secundary of T1. As C1 charges, Q1 turns on again and the cycle repeats itself. Therefore, a rapid series of DC pulses are generated and stepped up by T1 to approximately 300 volts at

full battery charge. That voltage is rectified and increased by the voltage muliplier section which consists of C2 and C9, and D1 to D8. The final output is approximately 2000 volts. The neon bulb NE1 is used as a charge indicator and indicates that the unit is charge and operating properly. Construction:

As with all projects start out by laying out and indentifying. If you do not wish to make a printed-circuit-board, then you may use perf  board as long as you remember to keep the leads of all high-voltage components isolated. That is to prevent sparks from arcing across your board. A 4 x 7.5 cm of perfboard is suitable for that purpose. The first components you should mount are the two transistors Q1, Q2, transformer T1, resistor R1, and neon bulb NE1. Solder them in place (for PCB construction) being sure that the transformer and transistors are hooked up correctly. Apply a small amount of  adhesive to the base of NE1 to hold it securely in place. Mount D1 to D8 and C2 to C9 on the board and make all solder connections. Note proper polarity of the diodes. The off-board components come next. Solder in leads for S1, and the output electrodes. Also solder in the battery clip for B1. Build the enclosure from some nonconductive material such as plastic. Drill holes for S1, NE1, and output electrodes. Be sure that the output electrodes are about a cm or greater apart. Connect the output wires tot the electrodes and insert them trhought holes from inside of the case. Thread on the retaining nuts and tighten them securely. Set the circuit board in the case and mount S1, securing with nut. That completes the construction. Testing:

Before inserting the battery and closing the case, a few test measurements should be made to ensure correct operation. With the ground clip connected to battery (do NOT connect the complete clip to the battery ONLY the ground), connect a volt or

multimeter between the positive clip and the positive terminal of the battery. Set the meter for current reading, and press S1. You should measure a current of approximately 300 to 500mA. NE1 should be glowing. With a high voltage multimeter or VOM, you should measure about 2000 volts on the output terminals. Those measurements indicate proper circuit operation. Let the unit run for about one minute (keep pressing S1). Transistors Q1 and Q2 should be warm, but not hot to the touch. Insert the battery in the holder and close the case. That wraps up the electric stun gun tazer. Operation and Use:

Activate the unit by pressing S1. NE1 will light indicating the tazer is fully charged and ready to use. Notice also that only one pole of the neon light will glow, indicating DC voltage present. It is important to remember that the device hods a charge even after S1 is off. To discharge, (do not press S1) touch the lectrodes to a metal object and not the healthy spark discharge. The electric stun gun tazer was designed as a self-defense weapon for use against vicious dogs or other attacking animals. The device is most effective when the electrodes contact an area of low resistance such as skin or flesh. Those include the snout or mouth since the resistance of those areas are much lower than areas of  hair of fur. The electrodes could be pointed to penetrate these areas better. The tazer generates great stopping power. One contact will give a powerfull jolt and should discourage any further attacks. (I  had my bench model 'turbo-charged' to 12,000 volts with the  probes 2-inches (5cm) apart). The device can burn and heat materials with low resistance. Those include flesh, moistened paper or wood, etc. That makes the unit potentially hazardous to humans. Remember, the daser is not a toy but a quality electrical appliance and therefore must be treated accordingly. Use the utmost discretion with this device. Another use for this device is as a high voltage DC power supply. It

may be constructed as avariable power supply if output taps are taken from various stages of the voltage multiplier section. Remember, always disconnect the battery and fully discharge the capacitors before working with the circuitry.

Heres a really fun gadget you can build! A Shock Flashlight! It will give your victims a powerful but harmless shock!

With my creation of the How to build the World's Smallest Electronic Shocker , it is so small that I can fit it into a flashlight, and use it to give people fun shocking pranks! This is going to be so fun to shock people with it, and I can guaranteed you to get laughs!!! So lets build this fun device!  Also for the English people that may not know, a flashlight is same thing as a torch.  And please note that I am only 15 years old and I am not very good at grammar so if you find some parts of the instructable confusing, please let me know and I will try fix it.

Step 1Get the things!!

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 All right, lets get started! You will need...

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 A flashlight (torch).  A very small shocker (you can build one, click here!).

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Tape (I used electric tape).

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Some wires.

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 Aluminum tape.

 And the tools...

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Wire strippers. Wire cutters.

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Soldering iron with solder.

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Hot glue gun with glue sticks.

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Drill gun with a small drill bit.

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Step 2Ready, on your marks, get set, WORK!

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Now, lets get to work! Note: The design of your flashlight may be very different from mine, but I will tell you how I did it anyway...

First, I disassemble the flashlight.

Step 3Drilling...

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I drilled two holes above the switch for the shock wires to go through.

Step 4Install the Shocker...

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Okay, I am going to put the shocker near where the light bulb is, I hot glued the shocker in place and put the -450v wire through one hole and the 0v wire in the another. Then I attached the shocker's 0v wire to the light bulb's base, and attached the shocker's positive wire to a longer blue wire, you will see why I did this later in this instructable...

Step 5Make the shock pads

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Making the shock pads on the switch is a bit difficult, I cut and stripped the wire down to about 1/2 inch. Then made two strips of foil from the aluminum tape and taped it down on the switch and the wires neatly with out having the strips touching each other, if the strips do touch each other, the shock flashlight will not work... Try make your shock pads very nicely, make it look realistic, otherwise your friend will not touch it...

Step 6And what about the wire?

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 All right! One more last thing I need to do before the shock flashlight is complete! The shocker's blue positive wire, strip about 1/2 inch of insulation off and tape it down on the positive side of the battery, but do not tape it on top of the battery's "hump" otherwise you will prevent the light bulb to glow, tape it around the "hump"... Okay, If you want your shock flashlight to be very powerful (900v), put the battery with wire taped on in first , then the battery with no wire. If you want your shock flashlight to be not so powerful (450v), put the battery with no wire in first , then the battery with wire taped on.  And then screw on the flashlight's bottom cap.

Step 7Have fun doing surprise shock pranks!

 And you are done! You had built a Shock Flashlight! Now go have fun by passing around the shock flashlight with your friends, they will think it is a odanery flashlight with a strange switch untill they try to turn it on... The light bulb will glow and the shocker will turn on and shock the user! Have fun with your shock flashlight

and doing surprise shock pranks!!! If you don't want to use the shocker, but the flashlight, just simply take of the shocker's blue positive wire!

Disclaimer: I am NOT responsible for any of your actions with this shocker, and what

happens to people that got shocked, it is harmless to healthy people, but it may be harmful to people under age 6, or elderly, or anyone with a pacemaker, or any one who has heart problems...  And don't try give this shock flashlight to kids that is a little above age 6, you might make them cry if they get shocked. It is good to know if the tiny shocker is on or not, by adding a wonderful invention called the "LED", so you don't risk get bitten by the shocker again! Disclaimer: This shocker can be dangerous if used improperly, it gives out about 400 to

450 volts, so I am NOT responsible if you or anybody are injured or killed by the shocker, the responsibility is yours...

Improved instructable! 

I have been asked by comments and email how to attach a LED to a shocker to indicate it is on. So I then decide to make another instructable how to do that.  And , I have copied and pasted everything from my original shocker instructable onto this

instructable and greatly improved the text on every step, also added more steps and replaced some pictures. I am hoping it would be less confusing to you and understand the project better so you can have an higher success in completing this project. :-) If you do find anything confusing or an error on this instructable, please let me know and I'll fix it.

Step 1What type of disposable camera should I use?

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The best disposable camera you can use for this project are the "Boots" or "Polaroid" types, because they have everything you need. The "Kodak" type is a bit more difficult, you need to find the type that uses an LED indicator, NOT a neon bulb indicator, those types will not work. Also, the LED type cameras uses SMD resistors, so you will need to find or buy one 220 ohm and one 100 ohm resistors.  All other types of cameras like "fuji" ect. will not work because they have an different and/or more complex circuitry.

Step 2What else you will need from the junkbox and the toolbox...

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Hardly anything is needed for this project but the tools, all of the important bits are found in the disposable camera...

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Some bits wires  AA battery holder (or other types of battery holder)

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Solder 

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Soldering iron (with a micro-tip if you have one.) Hot glue gun. Desolder pump (it makes the job much easier, but you could probably get away with out one).

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Flat-head screwdriver.

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Wire strippers.

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Wire cutters.

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Pliers.

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Vice (to hold the shocker in place while soldering)

 Also, if you don't know how to solder or having trouble, this guide can teach you how to solder and other cool little bits that are good to know.

Step 3Slaughter the camera!

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Now this is going to be a fairly dangerous part, open up the camera and get the circuit out safely without getting shocked by the capacitor... First, pry open the camera's case apart with a flat-head screwdriver or just use your hands if  you like, but you are more likely to get shocked by the capacitor.  After you taken the camera's case off, discharge the capacitor with a insulated screw driver,

and you may get a big loud spark, and after that, the capacitor is discharged... (Use a screwdriver you don't like because a charged capacitor will leave a fairly large scar on the metal part of the screwdriver!)  Also, to avoid getting shocked by the capacitor, wear plastic or thick gloves. Great! You had done the dangerous step on this instructable! Some people say this is the fun part because you get a nice big and loud spark!

Step 4Gut the camers's components

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Okay, after you had took apart the camera and discharge the capacitor... Desolder all of the wanted components off the camera's circuit (I desolder all of mine off of  the camera board). The components we will need from this camera are...

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Ferrite transformer with five pins 22nF film capacitor 

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Transistor (NPN type)

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Diode

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Red LED

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220 ohm resistor - Color code: Red/Red/Brown

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100 ohm resistor - Color code: Brown/Black/Brown

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 As you might have know, the ferrite transformers has different tape colors, it does not matter what color they are, they are all the same. I don't know why they have different colors... The 330v 80uF capacitor can be fun to use, you can make a capacitor bank with a bunch of  'em and makes some big bad ass sparks or use it to make a powerful coilgun on this instructable! Coilgun Handgun You can do some really interesting light effects with the xenon tube if you put it near the plasma globe...  Also, be very careful when desoldering (and soldering) the transistor, they are quite heat sensitive because they very small. So try desolder it quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker  will give you some very low output voltage results like 0.41v or something like that. This makes some people think this instructable is a scam, it is not, it is because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it... To reduce the risk of a burnt out transistor, clip an alligator/crocodile clip onto the leads of  the transistor (or the case if there is no room to put the clip on the leads). The clip will act like an heatsink, this should give you some more time to desolder the transistor.

Step 5The difficult bit...

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Okay, this is the difficult part of the project, making the shocker itself... Because we want to make this shocker small, it is a good idea to use a magnifying glass so you can see what you are doing and avoid make any solder bridges. I also made a schematic and a design to show to show you how the shocker is made.

Start with the five pin ferrite transformer.

It is important that the transformer has 5 pins, if the transformer has 4 or 6 pins, it will not work for this project.

Step 6Solder on the transistor 

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Solder the transistor's base lead to the pin 4 of the transformer and solder the transistor's collector lead to the pin 1 of the transformer. The transistor's emitter lead is the ground.

Step 7Solder on the 200 ohm resistor.

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Solder one lead of the 220 ohm resistor to the pin 2 of the transformer and solder the resistor's other lead to the pin 3 of the transformer.

Step 8Solder on the diode

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Solder the cathode lead of the diode to the pin 5 of the transformer.

Step 9Solder on the film capacitor 

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Solder one lead of the film capacitor to the anode of the diode and solder the other lead of  the capacitor to the pin 2 of the transformer. If the capacitor's leads are too short (like mine) to reach pin 2 of the transformer and the anode of the diode, just solder some some wires on the leads of the capacitor to make it longer.  Also, the film capacitor has no polarity (like the resistors), so you can connect it any way round.

Step 10Solder on the 100 ohm resistor 

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Solder one lead of the 100 ohm resistor to pin 3 of the transformer. The other lead will be connect the LED.

Step 11Solder on the LED

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Solder the anode lead of the LED to 100 ohm resistor's lead. Then solder the cathode lead of the LED to the transistor's emitter lead.

Step 12Wires...

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Solder the ground wire (black) from the battery to the emitter lead of the transistor and the cathode of the LED. Solder the positive wire (red) from the battery to the pin 2 of the transformer.  And solder the high voltage output wire (blue) to the cathode of the diode and the capacitor.

Step 13Bend everything down...

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Then, gently push all the components onto the side of the transformer and use hot glue if  needed.

Step 14Construction on shocker completed and being tested..

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Okay, now you built your shocker and it is time to test it... You should get between -400 to -450 volts out of the shocker. My multimeter is reading -438 volts from my shocker. If yours does not work, calm down, don't get so angry and blow off your head about hours of  work for nothing.

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First, check your shocker closely, are there any solder bridges? If so, remove them and replace the transistor.

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If it still does not work, you probably burnt out the transistor from putting the soldering iron on its leads for to long, replace the transistor and don't keep the soldering iron on its leads for to long again. If it still does not work... Then the ferrite transformer's internal wiring might be damaged if you went rough with it trying to get it out of the camera board. Build another shocker, because you cannot repair a tiny transformer (unless you have the proper equipment to do so!)

 And if it STILL does not work, well I guess you can you can go very angry, and smash up the shocker with a hammer and get over it. Or try make another one...

Step 15Two ways to attach the shocker to the battery holder...

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Maybe more... You can connect the shocker in a crude and simple way by using lots of wires... However, it would be quite difficult to use with all those dangling wires.

Or you can spend a little more time soldering and gluing the shocker and switch onto the battery holder to make the shocker more portable and easy to use.

Step 16Have fun electrocuting people and don't get caught by the police!

Okay, now that you had built a shocker with a useful LED indicator, what is stopping you from going outside and electrocute your friends (and perhaps strangers)? Also, watch out for police who is looking for trouble!! (That wouldn't be good!) To use the shocker, the victim must touch the live -400v wire and the +1.5v wire to get a unpleasant shock... The pain of a 400v shock is the equivalent of getting a really nasty static shock from a car. But the shocker gives a continuous shock...  Also, if you want the shocker to give more painful shocks to the victim, you just simply increase the input voltage! So, if you give it:

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1.5v input = 450v output. 3v input = 900v output.

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4.5v input = 1200v output.

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9v input = 2700v output. (OUCH!)

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Beware the higher voltage you give to the shocker, the sooner it will burn out. If you give the shocker 9 volts, it WILL not survive longer than a few seconds, or it may immediately blow up... It is the best if you feed your shocker only 1.5 volt, it may hurts less, but it won't burn out.

There is one funny idea that Kiteman thunk up... What you can do is wire up the shocker to a battery with a switch and make the 400v wire and the 1.5v wire long and then box it up in a small plastic case (except the long wires) to  prevent shocking your self... Then put the shocker in your pocket and have the long wires running down your jacket or  long sleeve and put a insulator like a bandage on your finger tip to insulate you (so you don't shock your self). Then put the bare ends of the wires on top of the bandage and tape it down.  And now you are for some fun! Go into the crowded school corridor and touch people with your electrified finger tip, you might not want to touch the girls as they have a bad habit of  screaming their head off if they get an unexpecting surprise, but go ahead and touch them if  you want... Or maybe go into the dinner queue and shock people as they slap the mashed potato on his/her tray... Disclaimer: This shocker can be dangerous, it gives out 450 shocking volts, so I am NOT

responsible if you or anybody are injured or killed by the shocker, the responsibility is yours...

Step 1Get 1Get the things!!

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Hardly anything is needed for this project but the tools...

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"Boots" or "Polaroid" type disposable flash camera (You can use a Kodak camera, but they are harder to work with). Some wires (I got mine from broken electronic devices). Solder.

 And the tools...

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Soldering iron with a micro-tip.

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Desolder pump (it makes everything so much easier, but you could probably get away with out one).

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Flat-head screwdriver.

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Wire strippers.

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Wire cutters.

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Pliers.

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Tweezers or micro pliers (or your hand, but you are more than likely to get a solder  burn).

 Also, if you you don't know how how to solder, solder, read this great instructable!

Step 2Slaughter 2Slaughter the camera!

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Now this is going to be a fairly dangerous part, open up the camera and get the circuit out safely without getting shocked by the capacitor... First, pry open the camera's case apart with a flat-head screwdriver or just use your hands if  you like, but you are more likely to get shocked by the capacitor.  After you taken the the camera's camera's case off, off, discharge discharge the capacitor capacitor with with a insulated insulated screw screw driver, and you may get a big loud spark, and after that, the capacitor is discharged... (Use a screwdriver you hate so much, because a fully charged capacitor will leave a scar on the metal part of the screwdriver!)  Also, if you you don't want to risk getting getting a shock shock from the capacito capacitor, r, Gjdj3 recommends recommends you to wear gloves, even the thin one will help he said. Great! You had done the dangerous step on this instructable!

Step 3Continue slaughtering the camera...

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Okay, after you had took apart the camera and discharge the capacitor... Desolder all of the wanted components off the camera's circuit (I desolder all of mine off). The components we will need from this camera are...

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Transformer with five pins. 22nF film capacitor.

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220 ohm resistor.

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Transistor.

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Diode.

The rest of the components, you can keep them or throw them away, but the 80uF capacitor  and the xenon tube is worth keeping... The 80uF capacitor can come in great use if you build a coilgun project shown on this instructable.  And you can do some really interesting light effects with a xenon tube if you read this instructable.

If you fail to get the 220 ohm resistor, you can try buy one from radioshack or other  electronic suppliers. Color code of the 220 ohm resistor is: Red - Red - Brown

 Also, be very careful when desoldering (and soldering) the transistor, they are very heat sensitive, so desolder it quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will lead you to many problems, some people thinks this instructable is a lie, just because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it... Tip on soldering: Instead of risking a burnt-out transistor, use a heat sink like a n alligator/crocodile clip to keep the transistor cool enough while desoldering and soldering.

Step 4The beginning of the hardest part ever...

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Okay, here we go, build the shocker, the hardest part ever... Read step by step through this instructable until you get to the end... Okay, get all of the wanted components, fire up the soldering iron, turn on your work lamp, get a magnifying glass, and HERE WE GO!!!  Also I made a schematic and a design that should help you how to build a shocker...

Step 0: Start with a five pin transformer.

UPDATE - 9, October, 2008 I have improved the schematics, I hope it is easier for you to read.

Step 5Hardest part ever... Step 1

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Solder the transistor's base to the pin 4 of the transformer and solder the transistor's collector to the pin 1 of the transformer.  Again don't forget what I said... (Kind of)

Be very careful when soldering the transistor on the shocker, they are very heat sensitive, so solder it on quickly otherwise the transistor will burn out without showing any signs of being dead. Using the dead transistor on the shocker will lead you to many problems, some people thinks this instructable is a lie, just because they burnt out the transistor without knowing it...

Step 6Hardest part ever... Step 2

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Solder one lead of the 220 ohm resistor to the pin 2 of the transformer and solder the resistor's other lead to the pin 3 of the transformer.

Step 7Hardest part ever... Step 3

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Solder the cathode lead of the diode to the pin 5 of the transformer.

Step 8Hardest part ever... Step 4

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Solder one lead of the film capacitor to the anode of the diode and solder the other lead of  the capacitor to the pin 2 of the transformer. You might need to make one of the capacitor's leads longer with some wire to reach to the pin 2 of the transformer.

Step 9Hardest part ever... Step 5

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Okay, you are almost there!

Solder the 0v of the battery wire to the emitter of the transistor, solder the positive voltage of  the battery wire to the pin 2 of the transformer, and solder the high voltage output wire to the cathode of the diode and the capacitor.

Step 10Hardest part ever...DONE!!!

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DONE!!! You did it! You had completed the world's smallest electronic shocker!

Step 11Testing... Testing...

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Okay, now it is time to test the shocker to see id it works... Yay! Mine works! If yours does not work, calm down, don't get so angry and blow off your head about hours of  work for nothing. First, check your shocker closely, are there any wires touching each other? If so, move them apart a bit. If it still does not work, you probably killed the transistor from putting the soldering iron on its leads for to long, replace the transistor and don't keep the soldering iron on its leads for to long again. If it still does not work, build another shocker.  And if it STILL does not work, well I guess you can you can go very angry, and smash up the "I won't work for you!" shocker with a hammer and get over it.

Step 12More shockers!

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I made a shocker with an AA battery, it is very small - it can be well hidden in my hand.

I also built a shocker into a dark blue battery pack, and it packs a pretty powerful punch. I then gave it to one of my friends for him to use for halloween - but then, I later found out he trashed it for no reason... :-(

I modified a orange flash light with a hidden shocker inside! But it is not very effective...

Step 13Have fun electrocuting people and don't get caught by the police!

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Okay, you had built the World's Smallest Electronic Shocker and now have fun electrocuting people and don't get caught by the police! (That wouldn't be good!) To use the shocker, the victim must touch the live -450v wire and the +1.5v wire to get a unpleasant shock... The pain of a 450v shock is the equivalent of getting a really nasty static shock from a car. But the shock from the shocker gives a continuous shock...

 Also, if you want the shocker to give more painful shocks to the victim, you just simply increase the input voltage! So, if you give it:

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1.5v input = 450v output. 3v input = 900v output.

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4.5v input = 1200v output.

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9v input = 2700v output. (OUCH!)

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Please note the higher voltage you give to the shocker, the sooner it will burn out. If you give the shocker 9 volts, it WILL not survive longer than a few seconds... It is the best if you feed your shocker only 1.5 volt, it may hurts less, but it won't burn out.

Here one fun thing you can do with the shocker.. And this is Kiteman's idea, so credits to Kiteman. (I also edit it a bit to make it better.) What you can do is wire up the shocker to a battery with a switch and make the 450v wire and the 1.5v wire long and then box it up in a small plastic case (except the long wires) to  prevent shocking your self... Then put the shocker in your pocket and have the long wires running down your jacket or  long sleeve and put a insulator like a bandage on your finger tip to insulate you (so you

don't shock your self). Then put the bare ends of the wires on top of the bandage and tape it down.  And now you are for some fun! Go into the crowded school corridor and touch people with your electrified finger tip, you might not want to touch the girls as they have a bad habit of  screaming their head off if they get an unexpecting surprise, but go ahead and touch them if  you want... Or maybe go into the dinner queue and shock people as they slap the mashed potato on his/her tray...

 And what other funny and fun things you can do with this such a small shocker? From simple everyday parts you can make this glove which has two modes. Mode 1 is a constant output of slightly over 300 v. while Mode 2 takes a few seconds to charge, but gives off a much more painful shock. All that voltage from a simple AA battery, Yay science. Expect to spend around 20$ for this fun and rewarding project.

Step 1Parts

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In addition to the parts listed below, some basic tools are required, such as a soldering iron, drill, screwdrivers, etc. All the basic things that a well equipped tinkerer should have. Parts: 1. Chemical resistant rubber glove. I bought mine at home depot, it dosent really need to be chemically resistant, just insulated enough to protect you from electricity. 2. Disposable camera 3. Aluminum foil 4. 2 Toggle Switches with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602) from the shack 5. Pushbutton switch from the shack 6. AA battery holder  7. Devcon weldit all purpose glue 8. Project box (As close to 3x2x1.5 as you can get) same as the one from the ignitor  instructable

Step 2Take apart the camera

This step varies with the different cameras so I can only give a general instruction for this part. Steps: 1. Remove label, box, sticker, or whatever package the camera is wrapped in, so it is just

bare plastic. 2. Find how the camera is held together most often it is small plastic latches around the camera, which can be bent open with a screwdriver. 3. Open the camera, and be very careful not to touch any of the circuitry. 4. Carefully remove the AA battery. 5. Discharge any current still in the capacitor by bridging the two leads with a metal screwdriver. 6. The circuitry is now safe to handle, so remove it from the camera casing.

Step 3Modifying the circuitry

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There are a few things on the circuitry that you need to identify before you do this step. The first is the capacitor which is the cylindrical thing, you should have discharged in the previous step. Other points of interest are the indicator LED light and the switch that is used to charge the capacitor. Steps: 1. Unsolder the indicator LED, solder 2-3 inch wires to each of the LED's leads, and solder 

those wires back into the circuit. Simply put your just making a little extension cord for the LED. 2. Unsolder the capacitor attach short wires to each of its leads and put it aside for later. 3. Using a small piece of wire, bridge the switch that is used to charge the capacitor, so it will always be on. 4. I have finally replaced step 4 with a schematic 5. Solder in 2 10in. wires connecting them to the 2 wires you just soldered into the board. These wires will go to the fingers of the glove.

Step 4Making the final package

You will now place all the circuitry and wiring into the project box. Steps: 1. Drill 4 holes on the top of the project box. 3 for the switches and 1 for the LED. 2. Glue the AA battery holder to the side of the project box, and drill 2 holes into the box for  the wires from it. 3. Drill 2 holes on the side of the box for the wires going to the fingers. 4. Insert the different switches into each hole and securing them, make sure that the two switches for the capacitor are next to each other. (In the photo it is the two on the right)

5. Solder one of the wires from the battery holder to the remaining unused switch, then take a short length of wire and solder it from the other lead on the swtich to the correct polarity of  where the battery was connected on the circuit board. Take the other wire from the external battery holder and solder it to the opposite polarity. It is a good idea to unsolder the metal clips from the circuit board that were used to hold the battery, and then solder the wires into the holes they were in. 6. Glue the LED into its hole, above the main power switch. 7. Feed the two 10 in wires through the holes on the side. 8. Put the circuit board inside the project box, and close it up. It will probably be a very tight fit, you may even need to trip down the sides of the board. 9. Check to make sure no wires are bridging, if they are wrap some electrical tape around them. 10. Close up the box.

Step 5Attatch it to the glove and test

Steps: 1. Strip the last inch and a half off the two 10 in wires and connect them to a multimeter to see if it is giving off any voltage. In the photo mine is only giving off 254v because my