History of Benazir Palace

HISTORY OF BENAZIR PALACE EARLY HISTORY AND EVOLUTION: Built in 1877 by NawabShahjehan Begum, a great builder like her namesake Mogul Emperor Shahjehan, the Palace was meant to be a pleasure pavilion. Overlooking the Motiva Talia, one of the three cascading lakes built around the same time to harvest the run-off from the neighboring Idaho Hills, Benazir Palace is now more than 130 years old and, by all reckoning, should have been treated as a heritage property about thirty years ago. But, no, it was never treated as one and was, very curiously, in the possession of the local medical college. How it went in the possession of the College that is only 57 years old is what beats everyone. Worse, the College, exercising its property rights, leased it out to NCC, which, in turn, leased it out to Prakash Jha’s film outfit, reportedly, for a sum Rs. 5 lakhs.

Benazir Palace: A View

SHAHJEHAN BEGUM’S REIGN The most famous and prominent construction undertaken by Shahjehan Begum was the Taj-Ul-Masjid. When she came to power Bhopal stretched within the fortified limits of Fatehgarh fort towards the west, Sahar-E-Khas towards the east and Bhoja’s fort towards the south. Jehagirabad extension by her father was

located across the watery span of ChhotaTalab joined to the city by a dyke called PulPukhta.

To this she added Shahjehanabad which, unlike most other towns elsewhere in the country during the nineteenth century, was planned and developed by her as a large fortified addition to the existing town. Sultanjehan Begum writes: Her Highness’s love for erecting large buildings and palaces was in no way less than that of her great namesake, the Emperor Shajehan of Delhi. She had three palaces constructed in the Mughal style for her personal use. The names of these palaces were:  Ali Manzil  Benazir palace  Taj Mahal Palace

Benazir palace’s image was printed on the postage stamp worth 4 annas. BENAZIR PALACE’S PURPOSE: Benazir Palace was used as the summer palace and rest house for Shahjahan Begum. Benazir was the equivalent of the pleasure pavilion in the garden and was essentially built as her summer palace and a place to accommodate state dignitaries. Lord and Lady Minto stayed here during their visit in 1909. Benazir overlooked the expanding landscape to its east and from it the arrangement of the three water bodies could be seen the MotiaTalab which was the uppermost, the intermediate Noor Mahal Talab and the lowermost the Munshi Hussain Talab.

INVOLVEMENT IN INDEPENDENCE OF INDIA: Located at Motia Lake the palace is a perfect blend of European and Mughal architecture. Beautiful fountains reflect the feel of Moughal art. Nets were installed at window panes to allow the breeze to enter. The fine construction and art itself make it unique. Mahatma Gandhi issued his call to join the freedom movement from the very ground of the palace in year 1929, He also halted for a night at the palace. Historians claim that the then viceroy Lord Chelmsford stayed at the palace during his visit to the city. The palace was used to host state dignitaries.

Governor general Lord Minto stayed at this palace during his visit to Bhopal in 1909.

CONTROVERSIES: It was never treated as a heritage site and was, very curiously, in the possession of a local medical college. How it went in the possession of the College that is only 57 years old is what beats everyone. Worse, the College, exercising its property rights, leased it out to NCC, which, in turn, leased it out to Prakash Jha’s film outfit, reportedly, for a sum Rs. 5 lakh. It is a curious case of a lessee sub-leasing its rights over a property which essentially is public property. Obviously, the district administration was in the know of the transaction as permission for Prakash Jha to shoot in the Palace premises was accorded by the local District Collector.

It was only when the media and the Bhopal Citizen’s Forum raised a furore that the government woke up to the mess that had been created. The Medical College did not have a clue that what it had in its possession was a heritage property and no less. It seemed to have had no qualms in palming off the Benazir grounds to the NCC for a paltry sum for the specious reason that it was involved in some construction on a nearby site. When Prakash Jha came along the lessee must have found it a god-sent opportunity to make some money on the side. Thankfully as a result of the big splash in the Times of India all the irregularities in dealing with the matter have been done away with. The government worked overtime to ready a notification indicating the Palace as a “Protected Monument”. The small delegation of Bhopal Citizens’ Forum had occasion to see it when it met the Commissioner Archaeology. The notification must have been issued by now.

DETERIORATION AND MISUSE: The case of Benazir Palace has been no different. It was allowed to be used as a College. A fire in its laboratory badly damaged some of its parts. As reports say it is not quite clear about who owns the Palace. However, now that the Department of Archaeology is going to take it over, it is hoped it will be better cared for. Commissioner Archaeology has assured the Citizens’ Forum that even Prakash Jha’s film will be shot in the Palace

premises under expert supervision (presumably of archaeologists).

ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN OF THE PALACE: The palaces and residences of the elite were located along these lakes; the uppermost of these lakes or ‘talabs’ being the MotiaTalab spread across a 230 m. x 230 m. area; NoormahalTalab as the intermediate level lake spread in a 175m. x 230m. Area; and the lowest was the MunshiHussainiTalab with 115 m. x 230 m. spread. The three lakes were dependent on the surface run-off water from the seasonal rains. To maintain the balance and the level of water in these lakes, an additional reservoir was constructed to the north of Shahjehanabad. An elaborate system of brick-lined vaulted drains exited to collect water and bring it to the lake. These channels passed through important buildings before delivering water to the Talab. The channels were transformed into splashing fountains, gurgling cascades, and silent ‘chadars’ (sheets of water) or passed through beautifully carved stone streams. Rose water or ‘kewda’ was added to this water to cool and freshen the air.

Cluster map of Shahjahanabad The Noor Mahal and the Taj Mahal were the royal residences and were connected by a rail line. One can see a curious mix of Islamic and Hindu architectural elements in the Taj Mahal. There

are cusped arches, massive gateways, and screen windows at upper levels, extensive mouldings, decorative plasterwork and squat domes with ‘jharokahs’. (Hindi for a type of overhanging enclosed balcony). The detailing in the inner courtyard facades seems to have a colonial influence. Towards the north-west of Tajul-Masajid, across the MotiaTalab, was the Benazir Palace, constructed in 1875, where the Bhopal2011 workshop took place. It is an ‘H’ shaped building with enclosed terraced gardens and gurgling fountains. A series of steps and plinths descended to the talab in the manner of a ghat. Benazir palace was meant to be the summer palace of the Nawab. Built with steel columns and carved louvered wooden partitions, it has extensive carvings on the walls of its hammam. The palace is an excellent example of passive thermal control. The Benazir Palace was also used to accommodate state dignitaries. Lord and Lady Minto stayed here during their visit to Bhopal in 1909. The gateway to the Benazir Palace was added at a later period. This is the most ornamental and ceremonial gate of old Bhopal. It has multi-foliated arched openings with staircases in far corners leading to ‘chhatris’ (Hindi for domed kiosks). The openings have canopies with pitched eaves. The H shaped building enclosed green stepped terraces and gurgling fountains; and a series of steps and plinths descended down to the water. The grounds attached to the palaces were used for ceremonial processions, parades and were also congregation grounds for the subjects. Steps on two sides of the ground provided sitting space for the people during sports. The luxurious ambience and the lacy treatment of the palace is almost akin to the zardozi veil of the burkha that Shajehan Begum so vehemently advocated. The palace has two large Rajputana domes projected in its frontline. Its architecture is a mix of European and Indian art. The Falaknuma gate has rooms on the first floor with windows overlooking the palace. An inscribed stone on the gate suggests

that Sultan Jahan Begum dedicated it for ‘Alexandra High School’ through the then Viceroy Lord Minto in November 1909 Spatial Organization Benazir Palace overlooked the expanding landscape to its east and from it the arrangement of the three water bodies could be seen – the Motia Talab which was the uppermost, the intermediate Noor Mahal Talab/ Siddique Hasan Khan Talab and the lowermost Hussain Bakh ki Talaiya. The H shaped building enclosed green stepped terraces and gurgling fountains; and a series of steps and plinths descended down to the water. The grounds attached to the palaces were used for ceremonial processions, parades and were also congregation grounds for the subjects. Steps on two sides of the ground provided sitting space for the people during sports. The luxurious ambience and the lacy treatment of the palace is almost akin to the zardozi veil of the burkha that Shajehan Begum so vehemently advocated.

Significance for the history of India, the region and the city It is considered to be one of its kinds in the world, with intelligent use of natural topography and natural drainage leading to optimal use and conservation of rainwater. The whole city of Bhopal depends on rainwater since there is absence of perennial water

source which can serve the whole city. The whole city uses the rainwater collected in its lakes during monsoon. The old city of Bhopal, especially Shahjahanabad area use to drink the water of Motia talab. The Kaiser Embankment which used to be the royal road now acts as a main connecting road. World’s only three cascaded lake added a new edge in the beauty of Bhopal. The whole area is still one of the most popular area of city of Bhopal.

RESTORATION AND CONSERVATION PLANS: City's Benazir palace, built some 138 years ago, would be restored to its original glory. Madhya Pradesh Heritage Development Trust (MPHDT) will preserve and develop the summer palace, according to press release issued on Thursday. Though re-use of the palace is yet to be decided, restoration work has been tendered and would begin shortly, said secretary culture department, Pankaj Raag. "We have undertaken the task of restoration of the palace. Extensive carvings on its walls and a hamam would be restored," he added. Re-use of the monument would be decided by a committee headed by divisional commissioner Bhopal.In December last year, government stepped up efforts to preserve Benazir palace after local citizen group raised concern over a construction company and a film crew being given permission to shoot in the historic palace and its adjoining compound. After being deemed a protected monument, filmmaker Prakash Jha was allowed to shoot extensively in the palace. Benazir palace formed a major portion of Jha's upcoming film Satyagraha. Also, during the meeting on Thursday, general council and executive body of MPHDT it was also decided to preserve and develop KesarBaori of Sironj, UdanChhatri, Raojiki Haveli, Vishnu Mandir Gopal Nagar and IdgahSironj during year 2013-14.