Hans Brinker Sailboat Plans

T By Gerald Taylor White Design by West/own Associates

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HE fame of the Grey Dawn type of Dutch auxiliary is, literally, world-wide. Many of you are familiar with Flying Dutchman, the 22-footer that appeared in MI in Dec, 1948, and Jan., 1949. This design has the same basic hull form but has been mathematically reduced to an over-all length of 16 feet. Obviously a boat of this length is not a deep-sea voyager, but for the man who wants a boat that will go out in rough water, that is easy to build that is comfortable, and that will last for a lifetime, there Mechanix

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is little offered that will beat Hans Brinker. Like all of the Grey Dawns, she requires no steam-bending of frames. While she follows the lines of the Dutch boats that have been used in the North Sea for centuries, she may best be described in terms intelligible to most Americans as a modification of the famous Gloucester dory, but she has more stability, less of a tendency to pound, and a lot more room. The cabin is not intended for serious cruising, but there is sitting headroom and a couple of folks who do not mind roughing it could cruise for days in her. The best auxiliary power would be an outboard engine hooked either to the transom or to a bracket attached to the stern. Specifications Deck fittings and all other hardware throughout the boat should be of bronze or brass. All fastenings should be of Everdur, copper, or bronze and should be set in counterbores and fitted with plugs on the outside. All faying surfaces should be smeared with marine glue or white lead. The lines of the entire boat should be laid down full size from the dimensions given in the table of offsets and lines drawing. Keel. White oak, in one piece, 3 in. thick, shaped as shown. Note that the top of the keel is 7/8 in. above the fairbody line. From Station 4 to 7/8 in. forward of Station 7, cut a slot through the keel 1-1/8 in. in width. Deadwood. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped as shown. Keel Battens. White oak, 7/8 x 5 in., fitted down tightly on top of the keel between frames, except in way of the centerboard trunk, and fastened with 2-in. boat nails. Stem. White oak, 3 x 5 in. Stem Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped as shown. Stem Post. White oak, 3 x 4 in. Stern Knee. White oak, 3 in. thick, shaped as shown. Cheek Pieces. White oak, 7/8 x 1 in., screw-fastened to bottoms of stem, stem knee, stern post, and stern knee to take planking. Stopwaters. White pine, 1/2 in. dia., set in holes bored through the rabbet line at the junctions of the keel and stem, deadwood, stern post, and centerboard headledges. Keel Fastenings. There should be at least five 3/8-in. bolts through the stem knee, a similar number through the stern knee, four through the deadwood, and two through each of the headledges. Transom. Philippine mahogany or white oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, t h r u - b o l t e d to the 128

stern post. Made up of pieces about 10 in. in width with each seam backed with a screwfastened oak batten not less than 7/8x1-1/2 in. Around the forward face of the transom, 7/8 x 2-in. white-oak cleats should be screwed to form a backing for the planking. Sampson Post. White oak or locust, 3 x 3 in., mortised into the stem and projecting above the deck as shown. To be fitted with a 1/2 x 7-in. bronze pin. Centerboard Construction. Substituting for the keel battens there are 2 x 2-in. oak logs rabbeted 3/4 in. deep and 7/8 in. wide along the inner upper edges. It is very important that these centerboard logs be made exceptionally watertight. They fasten to the keel with long screws passing through the rabbet and bolt through the headledges. The headledges are of 1-1/8 x 3in. white oak. They extend from the bottom of the centerboard slot to the cabin roof. The centerboard trunk is formed of 7/8-in. white oak with the pieces approximately 8 in. wide. To insure watertightness, a white-oak batten, about 1/2 x 1-1/2 in., is screwed along each seam. The trunk sides screw-fasten to the headledges and to the trunk logs. In way of the trunk, the frames are to be notched over the log and throughbolted as shown. The centerboard itself is of %-in. white oak built up as shown in the detail and fastened together with 1/2-in. dowels. The hole for the 1/2-in. centerboard pin is bushed with a piece of brass pipe and the holes through the keel are similarly bushed. A piece of lead, 7/8 x 6 in., is let into the centerboard to overcome flotation. One of the best ways to hold the lead in place is to bore a hole through each corner of the lead with a portion of the hole cutting the lead and the remainder passing through the oak; then four bolts with large washers can be run through. It will be necessary to counterbore so there will be no chance of the bolts striking the slot. Frames. White oak, 7/8 in. thick, each composed of five parts: one bottom frame, two side frames, and two topside frames. The bottom frames are 3 in. wide and the other frames are 2-1/2 in. wide. Particular attention should be paid to the erection drawing, which shows the location of the various parts of the frames as compared to the station marks. The parts lap each other and fasten together with 1/4 x 2-in. bolts Sheer Clamps. White oak or longleaf yellow pine in single lengths, 1-1/8x2-1/2in. Set at each frame so the deck beam will rest upon them. Fasten each at each frame with one long boat nail and one screw. Breasthook. Longleaf yellow pine or spruce, about 2 in. thick, to fill in the triangle at the deck forward of the Sampson Mechanix Illustrated

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post. Should be screw-fastened from the outside; then two fillers should be added outboard of the clamps as shown. Chines. These are on the outside of the boat and actually form planks. White oak or longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x3 in. At the stem and stern cleats, they are to be very strongly fastened and boxed in where necessary. Deck Beams. White oak or spruce, 7/8 x 2 in., cut to a radius of 24 feet and bolted or screw-fastened to the frame heads as shown. On the undersides, the corners should be chamfered off. Planking. Philippine mahogany, white cedar, white pine, or cypress, 7/8 in. thick, preferably in single lengths. Not counting the chine, there are four bottom planks on each side, six side planks, and one topside plank. All planks fasten to the frames with 1-3/4-in. screws. If the fastenings are plugged the screws may be reduced to 1-1/2 in. All plank seams should be slightly beveled to leave 1/16-in. calking seams. Decking. White pine, 7/8-in. T&G, boatnailed to the deck beams and covered with 10-oz. canvas laid in marine glue. At the hatch and cabin openings, the canvas should be turned down. Most Step. White oak or longleaf yellow pine, measuring 2 x 9 x 20 in., notched around the headledge and over frames No. 7 and 8, through-bolted to the frames, and mortised with a 2 x 2-in. hole for the mast. Hatch. Mahogany, set on 7/8 x 1-1/2-in. white-oak coamings. A ledge must be screwed all around the hatch that will fit down over the coamings. Hooks or other fastenings should be provided to suit. Waterways. Philippine mahogany or white oak, about 7/8 x 7/8 in., except forward, where they should be widened to 2-1/2-in. buffalo rails, as shown. Cabin and Coaming. Philippine mahogany or white oak, l-1/8 in. thick, shaped as shown. Set in 8 in. from the rail line and fit very tightly against the deck. Cut a shallow groove along the under edge and lay a thread of lamp wicking, soaked in marine glue, in the groove. Fasten with long screws passing up through the decking. In way of the windows, openings are cut out and rabbeted to receive [Continued on page 156]

LARGE-SCALE PLANS will greatly simplify construction. Send $3 to MECHANIX ILLUSTRATED Plans Service, Faweett Building, Greenwich, Conn. Please specify Plan No. B-I9I.

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Mechanix Illustrated

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Hans Brinkex [Continued from page 130] double-thick glass that's held in place with quarter-round moldings. To give additional light and ventilation, two 4-in. portholes should be installed in forward end of cabin. Cabin Roof Beams. White oak or spruce, 3/4 x 1-3/4 in, crowned 1 in. in every 2 feet of span. Chamfer off the under corners. Screwfasten to the cabin with long screws. Cabin Facing. Mahogany. 3/4 x 6 in., screwed to the deck beams to form the ledge of a shelf around the cabin and to cover ends of beams. Cartings. White oak or longleaf yellow pine, 7/8 x 2 in., running entire length of cabin and cockpit and screw-fastened to the undersides of the deck beams after cabin is in place. Cabin Roof. White pine or spruce, 3/4-in. T&G, nailed to beams and canvas covered. Spars. Spruce. The mast is built up of 1/2-in. stock with fillers, as shown in the detail. The boom and bowsprit are solid pieces. Standing Rigging. The shrouds and the forestay are 5/32-in. flexible wire properly eyespliced at the ends and fitted with shackles. The bobstay is 3/16-in. wire. Running Rigging. The main and jib halyards are 3/8-in. yacht manila The rigging of the main sheet is as follows: from an eye bolt on the starboard side of the transom, the sheet leads up through one sheave of a double block attached to the boom, down through a single block on the port side of the transom, then up through the remaining sheave of the block on the boom. The jib sheets are double and of 1/2-in. yacht manila. The same diameter is used for the main sheet. The topping lift is 3/8-in. manila. Since some difficulty may be had in passing a splice through centerboard trunk, it is suggested that two feet of centerboard pennant be a piece of brass bell chain with remaining part 3/8-in. manila. Blocks. The following will be necessary: for jib halyard, one single block; for main halyard, one single block; for topping lift, one cheek block; for main sheet, one single block on swivel and one double block on plate; for jib sheet, two fairleaders; and for centerboard pennant, one cheek block or one block on plate depending upon lead for pennant. Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick, made of two pieces doweled together, shaped as shown, with a tiller hole and bolted cheek pieces. Tiller. White oak, 3 feet 7 inches long, 1-3/16 in. thick, and 2-1/2 in. wide, rounded off and tapered to l-1/2 in. wide at forward end. To slip into hole in rudder and be held by a pin. Moldings. At the rail and sheer, install 1-in. half-round moldings. At the cabin edge, install 3/4-in. half-round moldings. • March,

1951