Good food india

December 31, 2017 | Author: Nessma Hamdy | Category: Indonesian Cuisine, Chutney, Publishing, Pizza, Food & Wine
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APRIL 2013 C 100



Quick fixes

710-minute meals 75-ingredient dishes 7How to use leftovers 7Feed a crowd 7Super easy puds

Vicky Ratnani's poshed-up sandwiches Seasonal jackfruit sensations

Smoky tomato soup p 105 7 30 cut out & keep recipes p 101

Fresh ways with quinoa EAT OUT



On trial: pizzerias

Eat like an Australian

Pro vs Punter, Mi Maratha

Srinagar on your plate

Koldo Royo's seafood paella from scratch p 142

The big easy F most of us there is a common bugbear while planning a meal — For tthe length of time it will take to make. Regardless of your devotion tto foodie pursuits, even the most amazing recipe won’t work if you ccan’t make time for it in your complicated life. Easy is beautiful, as this edition proves. The 80-odd recipes that follow offer surefire solutions for all your problems (in-laws, bad boss and To Do list not included). Fast, clever, easy y Save time, energy and your sanity with our genius quick fixes. From 10-minute meals and 5-ingredient wonders to feed-a-crowd and using leftovers, this issue sparkles with bright, effortless ideas to suit every occasion and energy level (including no-cook dishes for the dog days). Asian prawn omelette, gno omelette gnocchi with lemon and chive pesto, salmon curry. These are exactly the kind of dishes you want on your table on busy days. And don’t even think about skipping dessert. Our quick puds ensure the last course gets top billing.

SANDWICH REINVENTED The new sandwiches are anything but basic. Check out our masterpieces. P 86

GOT 20 MINUTES? Then you’ve got a meal. Try this fresh Cobb Salad. P 68

April on your plate With an abundance of seasonal riches, April is one of the best times of year for the greedy. Make the most of it with our feisty chutneys in a riot of flavours. We also put an unexpected spin on the jackfruit, orr kathall, with dishes that break this tropical fruit’s humble mould. As our kitchen experiments prove, jackfruit is just as fabulous in salads as it is in biryani, curries, stir fries and pie (yes, pie). As for that kulfi on p 78, it fell straight from heaven. eat in weekend

·wichcraft Recipes VICKY RATNANI Photographs

makeover with these haute sandwiches

“With these recipes I have pushed the boundaries of traditional fillings to create poshed-up sandwiches. So go ahead and experiment with breads, spreads and condiments.” Ratnani,

that are anything but predictable


— Vicky Head chef, Aurus, Mumbai

Chicken parmigiana ciabatta

with rocket and marinated

tomatoes (recipe on p 92)

13/03/13 11:25 AM

13/03/13 11:25 AM

Sandwich grows up This year’s chic sandwiches are all about artisanal breads, inventive fillings and inspiration from all over the globe. Vicky Ratnani celebrates the ‘wich craze that’s taking our tables by storm. His fixings give sandwiches an adult appeal, showcasing their endless versatility and gourmet potential. Try his Hip Street Sandwich, the rasta a sandwich gone posh with a chilli-cilantro pesto twist. And the ‘sea dog’ made with garlicky prawns, sweet chilli mayo and red cabbage slaw. Hot dog? What’s that?

HUMBLE GONE HAUTE Jackfruit’s tropical flavour sings of happy summer days. P 72 Cooking with

JACKFRUIT Discover the surprising versatility of this deliciously stinky fruit both its raw and ripe forms in

PIZZA ON TRIAL Check out six happening pizza hotspots with us. P 110


Pizza redux The pizza, like the sandwich, is having a star moment. Once regarded as cucina povera (food of the poor), its haute reinvention has seen the arrival of posh pizzerias serving not-so-regular slices. From the naan-like, charred texture of the Naples-style pizza at Mumbai’s Di Napoli to the half metre-long pies served at Pizza Metro Pizza, the new pizza oozes snob value. San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce, imported Italian dough for the crust, and the poshest cheeses, veggies and meats for the toppings. Turn to our Restaurant Spy on p 110 for a definitive update.

“The jackfruit can either be used when young and raw or when it turns ripe and yellow. The younger variety needs to be before use, while the ripe cooked one can be eaten straight after it peeled. The meaty texture is of raw jackfruit makes it a great substitute for meat. These recipes offer a contemporary twist on the jackfruit, transforming it into somethin exciting, colourful and fresh.”g — Amit Pamnani, Associate

L3 In Season r1.indd

There’s plenty more inspiration, including game-changing entrepreneurs who are raising the food bar with their locally grown gourmet ingredients. And a great piece about local varieties of Indian fish that can give any imported basa a run for its taste. Enjoy this issue. It’s all about vibrant colour, clever flavour combos and respect for the season’s best produce.

Sona Bahadur, h d r editor


food editor, BBC Good Food


Give your daily bread a gourmet

Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai Editor Sona Bahadur

AD SALES Director Ad Sales & Business Development Jyoti Verma [email protected]

Chief Copy and Features Editor Meher Mirza Senior Features Writer Vidya Balachander Senior Features Writer Priyanka Hosangadi

WEST ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT Gautam Chopra [email protected] Mumbai Reena Dave [email protected] Pune Ekta Dang [email protected] Ahmedabad Nishi Shukla [email protected]

Associate Food Editor Amit Pamnani Junior Food Editor Kainaz Contractor Consulting Editor Camellia Panjabi Assistant Art Director Shalaka Shinde Senior Graphic Designer P. Vel Kumar Editorial Coordinator Prital Patil Brand Publisher Senior Brand Manager (Magazines) Senior Brand Manager (Events & IPs) Deputy Brand Manager (Digital) Assistant Brand Manager (Magazines) Assistant Brand Manager (Alliances) Marketing Coordinator

Debolin Sen Abhishek Krishnan Aakash Mishra Mihir Mukadam Sajid Hussain Savio Joseph Asha Karandikar

NORTH BUSINESS HEAD Sohan Singh Olk [email protected] GENERAL MANAGER Sameer Chhabra [email protected] CATEGORY HEAD Lokesh Arora [email protected]

Chief Financial Officer Subramaniam S

SOUTH BUSINESS HEAD Vikram Singh [email protected] Chennai Rajeshkumar Jagdish [email protected] Bangalore Sen Thomas [email protected] Kochi Rashmi Pradeep [email protected]

Publisher, Print and Production Controller Joji Varghese UK TEAM Group Editorial Director Nicholas Brett Editor Good Food Gillian Carter Creative Director Food Group Elizabeth Galbraith Food Director Food Group Lulu Grimes Publishing Director Alfie Lewis

EAST GENERAL MANAGER Alka Kakar Kolkata [email protected] Good Food India is edited by Sona Bahadur and printed & published by Joji Varghese for and on behalf of Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd., The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr D N Road, Mumbai 400001. Printed at Rajhans Enterprise, No 134, 4th Main Road, Industrial Town, Rajajinagar, Bangalore 560044, India.

FOR MARKETING ENQUIRIES Abhishek Krishnan [email protected]

Good Food is published by Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd. under licence from BBC Worldwide Limited, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ. The BBC logo is a trade mark of the British Broadcasting Corporation and are used under licence by Immediate Media Company London Limited. Copyright © Immediate Media Company London Limited All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission.

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The publisher makes every effort to ensure that the magazine’s contents are correct. However we accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. Unsolicited material, including photographs and transparencies, is submitted entirely at the owner’s risk & the publisher accepts no responsibility for its loss or damage. Submissions to the magazine may also be used on the publication’s related platforms. Good Food Magazine India is not responsible for any controversies that may arise thereof. All material published in Good Food is protected by copyright and unauthorised reproduction in part or full is forbidden.




SUBSCRIPTIONS NATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING MANAGER Priyadarshi Banerjee [email protected] Subscribe online:



105 Smoky tomato soup Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN Food styling CAROL TENNANT

Serves 6 Q30 minutes Q EASY Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE onions 2, chopped carrot 1, grated celery 2 sticks, chopped garlic 2 cloves, crushed olive oil 2 tbsp smoked paprika 2 tsp tomatoes 800g, chopped tomato purée 2 tbsp vegetable stock 400ml double cream 4 tbsp + extra to serve chives chopped, to serve cheese toasties to serve


eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time

Restaurants on trial and cafés with character

58 7 MEALS FOR ` 700


A week’s worth of stylish meals QCook the onion, carrot, celery and garlic in olive oil, until softened. Add the smoked paprika and cook for a minute. Add the tomatoes, purée and stock. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are very soft. QWhizz in a blender. Add the double cream and whizz again. Serve with an extra swirl of cream and some chopped chives along with warm cheese toasties. QPER SERVING 138 kcals, protein 2.8g, carbs 10.1g, fat 9.6g, sat fat 4g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.4g

ALL YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINES ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY! Now, subscribing to BBC Good Food India (and all your other favourites like Femina, GoodHomes, Lonely Planet, Filmfare and others) just requires a click of the mouse! Log on to mags. Simply fill your cart with your favourite magazines and pay right from your desk. Plus get great discounts and really exciting gift offers! Log in now! 8 BBC GoodFood


65 LUNCHBOX Quick and wholesome wraps

66 READY IN 20 Snappy recipes ready in a jiffy


Pizzerias on trial

118 PRO VS PUNTER Mumbai’s Mi Maratha

120 OFF THE EATEN TRACK Discover Mumbai’s Hotel Deluxe

123 SIGNATURE DISH Pesto Pesto’s Seafood Broth

Delicious jackfruit dishes

80 MODERN VEGGIE Fresh ways with quinoa

86 WEEKEND Sandwiches gone posh

94 SHOW-OFF COOKING Ready in 30 desserts

101 QUICK FIXES 30 speedy meal ideas

PRO vs PUNTER Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro. To apply, write to us at [email protected]

APRIL 2013

April 2013


36 ON TEST Ready-to-eat dal makhani

37 BARGAIN HUNTER Best value foodie events, meals and deals

38 NEED TO KNOW The bounty of Indian fish

42 GROWN HERE, NOT FLOWN HERE Meet four pioneering food entrepreneurs

50 FOOD ISSUE We investigate artificial sweeteners

eat away Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world

53 THE HEALTHY INGREDIENT Creamy and nutritious avocados

54 BOOKS AND COOKS 126 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: AUSTRALIA Authentic recipes from Down Under

132 CITY ON THE PLATE SRINAGAR Nosh your way around the Kashmiri capital

137 BUDGET AND BLOWOUT PUDUCHERRY An eater’s guide to the former French province

138 POSTCARD FROM KUALA LUMPUR Karen Anand discovers the Malaysian capital

first bite 10 OVER TO YOU Reader recipes, comments and letters

April’s must-read food tomes

55 WHAT’S ON Must-watch food TV


Asian-inspired cocktails





The perfect wok






Koldo Royo’s step-bystep seafood paella


Kuala Lumpur Q



Tangy jackfruit chutney



Discover New World wines

Monica Dogra dishes about food



Bengaluru Pune Australia


Run riot with chutneys

APRIL 2013

Mozzarella and salami ciabatta



New restaurants, trends we like and more


THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY 7BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million. is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month. 7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.

BBC GoodFood 9

Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse Jackfruit kulfi Serves 4 Q30 minutes + overnight freezing QEASY ripe jackfruit 100g, peeled and flaked milk 220ml condensed milk 100g saffron a pinch sugar 30g cornflour 10g pistachios 2 tbsp, chopped QPurée half the jackfruit and chop the remaining half. Keep aside. QPut 200ml milk and the condensed milk in a pan and

bring to a boil. Once boiled, simmer and add saffron, sugar and the jackfruit purée. Cook for 10 minutes. QMix the cornflour with 20ml milk and add to the pan. Let it cook for 5 more minutes and then switch off the gas. Add pistachios and the chopped jackfruit. Mix well. Let it cool for 20 minutes and then pour into kulfi moulds. Freeze overnight and serve. QPER SERVING 195.25 kcals, protein 4.78g, carbs 33.90g, fat 5.25g, sat fat 2.60g, fibre 0.73g, salt none

Write to us! We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at [email protected] Let’s be in touch!

FOOD NATION Delhi Good Food d reader Vrinda Bhageria on her favourite places to eat in the capital city 7BREAKFAST For ` 475 you can have an unlimited king-size breakfast at All American Diner (+011 4366 3333). Sample the freshly baked bagels and croissants (both plain and whole wheat) along with a huge bowl of crunchy muesli and fresh juice. End your meal with the delicious chocolate or jam doughnuts. You don’t need to be an early riser as it is open for breakfast all day. Meal for two ` 600. 7LUNCH Perhaps the best way to binge on a budget is to visit the legendary Andhra Bhavan (+91 - 23382031). Opt for the unlimited South Indian thali comprising fluffy puris, two vegetarian curries, piping hot sambhar and rasam, steamed rice and a sweet along with several accompaniments. Don’t forget to order the mutton fry and prawn curry. Meal for two ` 200. 7DINNER Head to the laidback Yeti (+91 43333618) for Tibetan cuisine. Feast on Wai Wai noodles and the Yeti Special thukpa. Those who want to experiment can call for phokso (goat meat) or shapta (buffalo meat). Do not leave without having the Vanilla Ice Cream with Honey-glazed Noodles. Meal for two ` 900.



The kulfi recipe was exotic with the subtle flavours of the jackfruit. Since I could only find the crunchy, not-so-sweet variety, I chopped up the entire quantity. I cooked it with jaggery, then added dry ginger powder with cardamom and skipped the saffron. I reduced the condensed milk to balance the sweetness. I used fresh cream and toasted cashews instead of pistachios. Smitha George is a recipe developer and blogs at She lives in Gurgaon.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at [email protected] to join us. 10 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013

over to you readers write

% Salads

% Wraps



% Stir fry


What is your go-to quick fix when pressed for time?

LETTER Dear Editor, OF THE MONTH All I can say ay is what perfect p rfeffect fe timing! I couldn’t ouldn’t u ha have ask asked sk d ffor sked more. The feature on how to bake perfect bread in the March 2013 issue of BBC Good Food has been extremely handy. The moment I laid my hands on this issue, I immediately tried the white bread and the focaccia, and have passed with flying colours. My confidence is now taking me to the next level and I’m heading towards getting innovative by incorporating cheese and sausages in the bread. The 7 meals for 700 rupees feature is great for an everyday one-dish meal. Thank you so much for fixing my monthly agenda for food. Looking forward to your next issue! - Meetu Mahajan, Jalandhar The winner of the letter of the month for this issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese  and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt . To write in to the magazine, e-mail us at [email protected] and include your address and telephone number.

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH Anjali Kejriwal is a high school student living in Kolkata and loves to bake. She shares the recipe of orange rind fruitcake.

Orange rind fruitcake Serves 6 Q1 hour + standing time QEASY cranberries 25g glazed cherries 50g blackcurrants 25g sultanas 25g orange peel 2 tbsp dark rum 5 tbsp orange juice 1/4 cup refined flour 125g + extra for dusting baking soda 1/4 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp butter 125g + extra for greasing demerara sugar 200g eggs 4 icing sugarr 50g QSoak the cranberries, half of the glazed cherries, blackcurrants, sultanas and orange peel in the rum and orange juice

over two nights. Preheat the oven at 200°C. Sift the flour, baking soda and baking powder together. QBeat the butter and sugar together. Beat the eggs and fold in the butter mixture. Mix well. Add the fruit mixture to the butter mixture and gently fold in with a spoon. Fold in the flour and mix using a whisk till no lumps remain and the batter is thick and uniform. QGrease a tin with butter and dust with flour. Pour the batter into the tin and bake at 200°C for the first 15 minutes and at 180°C forr the next 25 minutes. QInvert the cake and finish with the remaining cherries and icing sugar.

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd (DCPL), a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper contains an array of products from DCPL’s Leonardo brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil, pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe booklets. Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook at MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at

APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 11

In this issue KOLDO ROYO

Koldo Royo is a Michelin-starred chef and the co-owner of an eponymous restaurant on the island of Mallorca in Spain. Since it opened in 1989, the restaurant specialises in simple yet distinctive Mediterranean cuisine influenced by Basque flavours with a focus on high-quality ingredients. Royo gives us a taste of his culinary style with his step-by-step Seafood Paella in Masterclass on p 142.



Vicky Ratnani is a chef, television anchor and culinary consultant based in Mumbai. He graduated from the Institute of Hospitality Management in Mumbai and is currently Corporate Chef, Fine Dining at Dish Hospitality, the company that owns and manages a number of restaurants in India including Aurus. Ratnani gives sandwiches a sophisticated makeover in Weekend on p 86.

Sangram Sawant is the founder of Pesca Fresh, one of the country’s first organised seafood distribution and retailing companies based in Mumbai. Sawant cultivated a passion for seafood while working with Great Northern Products, a seafood-focused company based in the United States. He has pioneered the introduction of several new species such as mahi mahi, swordfish, tilapia and Asian sea bass in Mumbai. Sawant gives you the lowdown on Indian fish in Need to Know on p 38.

KALYAN KARMAKAR lyan Karmakar is a food and travel blogger who describes mself as a “market researcher by profession and foodie by igion.” He writes about his food experiences on his blog, nely Chopped d. In this issue, Karmakar takes you on a journey discover the culinary treats on offer at Mumbai’s Hotel luxe in Off the Eaten Track on p 120.


Sanjiv Valsan is a freelance photographer, travel writer and documentary film researcher based in Mumbai. He counts several hotels, restaurants, publications, production houses hotels and non-profit organisations among his clients. Valsa considers food and adventure as his particular weaknesses and specialises in them. He shot the photographs of Indian fish featured in Need to Know on p 38. 12 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013

Get to know us Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for. Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India: first bite news, trends, shopping

first bite Chutney Nation Rustle up these brilliant Indian chutneys in a riot of perky colours and flavours Recipes AMIT PAMNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA

FLAVOUR BOMBS Chutneys have always been an integral part of any Indian meal. Travel to any state of India and the local cuisine will have several chutneys innate to that region. They impart tanginess, spiciness or sweetness to any meal. And unlike pickles, they can be used as sandwich fillings, dips, marinades or simply enjoyed on their own. These chutneys last up to three days in the fridge or up to a month in the freezer.

first bite news, trends, shopping

7First Bite

Dip right in!

Feisty chutneys teamed with earthy khakras spell jaded-palate nirvana Peanut chutney Makes 1 bowl Q5 minutes QEASY QPut 1 cup peeled, roasted peanuts, 2-3 peeled garlic cloves, 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tbsp lemon juice and salt in a blender. Add a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 221.75 kcals, protein 8.95g, carbs 9.43g, fat 18.33g, sat fat 2.58g, fibre 3.43g, salt 0.1g

blend until it resembles a coarse powder. QPER SERVING 262.75 kcals, protein 1.65g, carbs 5.53g, fat 26.58g, sat fat 1.70g, fibre 1.38g, salt 0.1g

Dry coconut and garlic chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QDry roast 1 cup freshly grated coconut or dried desiccated coconut, 2 tsp red chilli powder, 2-3 sliced garlic cloves, 1 tsp each of turmeric powder, coriander powder, cumin powder and fennel seeds for approximately 5 minutes in a non-stick pan on slow heat. Add 1 tsp salt and mix well. Allow to cool. Blend the mixture in a mixer without adding any water. QPER SERVING 262.25 kcals, protein 1.78g, carbs 45.23g, fat 8.15g, sat fat 7.05g, fibre 2.63g, salt 0.6g

Papad chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoast 5-6 papads on a hot griddle. Deep fry 1 sliced onion in 100ml oil until golden. Roast 1 tbsp sesame seeds on a griddle. Crush the papad roughly with your hands. Put the crushed papad, fried onions and sesame seeds along with a pinch of salt, 1 tsp red chilli powder and 1 tsp amchoor powder in a blender and

Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow. First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 27

Beetroot chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoughly chop 1 peeled beetroot and 1/2 peeled onion. Mix 2 chopped green chillies, 2 tbsp mint leaves, 2 peeled garlic cloves, 5-6 curry leaves, a pinch of salt and 1 tsp lemon juice together. Add 1 tbsp cashewnuts and 1 tsp sugar. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and add a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 29.25 kcals, protein 0.83g, carbs 4.70g, fat 0.98g, sat fat 0.18g, fibre 0.63g, salt 0.1g

Raw mango chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY

Avla chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoughly chop 3 avlas. Mix 2 tbsp chopped coriander, 1 chopped green chilli, salt to taste, 1 tbsp peeled peanuts, 1 tsp roasted sesame seeds, 1 peeled garlic clove and 1 tsp sugar with the avla. Put all the ingredients in a blender with a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 38 kcals, protein 1.08g, carbs 4.38g, fat 2.10g, sat fat 0.23g, fibre 1.38g, salt none

QRoughly chop 1 raw mango without peeling it. Mix 1/4 chopped onion, 3 tbsp freshly grated coconut or dried desiccated coconut, 2 chopped green chillies, 2 chopped garlic cloves and 1 tsp lemon juice. Add a pinch of salt, 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tbsp sugar. Combine all the ingredients in a blender with a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 65.75 kcals, protein 0.63g, carbs 15.85g, fat 0.65g, sat fat 0.35g, fibre 1.63g, salt none

eat in weekend


7Eat In

Give your daily bread a gourmet makeover with these haute sandwiches that are anything but predictable

“With these recipes I have pushed the boundaries of traditional fillings to create poshed-up sandwiches. So go ahead and experiment with breads, spreads and condiments.”


The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and barbecue recipes bursting with flavours. P 57

— Vicky Ratnani, Head chef, Aurus, Mumbai

Chicken parmigiana ciabatta with rocket and marinated tomatoes (recipe on p 92)

eat out off the eaten track

Hotel Deluxe Few places in Mumbai can claim to offer a truly authentic taste of Kerala like Deluxe, a no-frills joint in the heart of the maximum city’s Fort district Words KALYAN KARMAKAR Photographs BAJIRAO PAWAR


ort was once the hub of Mumbai, the nucleus of the city, the commercial district and the economic powerhouse of the nation. Today, it lives as much in the past as in the present. New commercial hubs have cropped up all over Mumbai and Fort is a shadow of its former glory. That’s not the end of this story though. A walk through the historic district is like travelling in time. The surroundings tell the tale of

India’s transition from British rule to Independence. Temples, mosques, churches and synagogues capture the diversity that lies at the heart of Mumbai. So do the restaurants. The lanes of Fort are dotted with restaurants, many more than half-a-century old. These are the places that have fuelled the worker bees of Mumbai. Since almost every community that worked in Fort had their favourite pit stops, you will find Gomantak, Mangalorean, Gujarati,

Irani, Udipi, Malvani and Malayali joints here. However, south Indian restaurants from across the four states dominate the landscape. South Indians formed a large part of the workforce in newly independent India and several eateries came up to sustain them. Street lore has it that the chief minister of Kerala visited Fort in the 1960s and inaugurated a restaurant called Lalit. Today, you will find two or three restaurants bearing the same name in this area.You will also come

across a restaurant called The Taste of Kerala, a vegetarian, south Indian thali lunch home called Gopalashram and the grandly named Hotel Deluxe. According to Chandrahas, a waiter who has worked at the restaurant for more than a decade, Deluxe has been around for a long time. “About 50 years,” he hazards a guess and breaks into a smile, “from the time when gang lords like Haji Mastan and Mudaliar ruled the streets of Mumbai”. Deluxe was started by Hussein Haji, the father of the current owners Asraf and Naseer, who is said to have hailed from Kasargod in Kerala. It started as a hole-in-the-wall joint in the same place where the restaurant stands today. Old-timers who love their meat swear by the beef fry and parotta a at this newly refurbished restaurant. A narrow staircase takes you to the first floor, which also includes an air-conditioned section. Go for the food, not the frills. The ambience may be nothing to write home about, but the service is warm and friendly. As the waiters get to know you, they will welcome you with a smile and seat you as soon as possible. When you become a regular, they might slip you a complimentary glass of piping hot rasam and even the occasional piece of fried fish. Malayalam is the dominant language of conversations, which tells you that this is where patrons from the state come for their fix of home food. It is also the best indicator of the authenticity of the dishes. If there were one compelling reason for you to visit Deluxe, it would be the famous sadhya. A sadhya (which means banquet in Malayalam) is an elaborate vegetarian meal from Kerala traditionally served on a banana leaf. Some credit Top 5 dishes to try it to the Hindu Brahmin Namboodiri or Nair at Hotel Deluxe communities but it is also 7 Parotta served in Deluxe, a Muslim7 Kappa biryani owned restaurant. 7 Prawns roast Tthe waitstaff are happy 7 Karimeen tawa fry to explain the dishes to you in Hindi. In classic Indian 7 Beef masala tradition, the best way to

This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus, we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature recipes to make at home. P 109 Hotel Deluxe has mastered the art of perfectly fried fish

eat away postcard

Postcard from URISM MALAYSIA Photo courtesy TO P

Kuala K l L Lumpur Give fine ne e dining n a miss and hit the ning the e hawker stalls stall talls to sa savour ourr the au a thentic hentic flavours of the Malaysian Malaysian capital Words rds and an photographs hs KAREN KARE ANAN ANAND


off creating a com ommunity ommunity nity of creative creative people ople and d cultur urall innovators innov to produce roduce duce ce new ew artis rtistic tic pro projects, which h includes ncludes es cuisine ine and wine in addit add a ion on to theatre and ar art. t This initiat initiative, e known as the LM10 LM M 0, is helmed by Jérôme érôme me Sans, a Fr F ench art curator who serves rves ves as the Mer M idien’s global cultural cultural curator. rator. tor. A As a result, the Meri Meridien in Kuala uala la L Lumpurr is aan n arty space with a magnifi magn magnificent ificen chocolate lounge known as Art Cacao, a ba bar and nd a gastro pub pu tha thatt replaces places a the he traditional nal coffee sho sshop. p. It iss an exciting id idea eaa and n those inte int re rested ested ed d in the new fronti frontiers erss of hospitalit hospitali y will w embrace brace the chan ch changee. e. In my room ro upstai pstai airs, rrs, s,, instead i of the boring ring frui fru fruit basket sket ket or chocolates choco chocolates wrapped in cling gfi film, lm, the there are handnd broken oken ba bars bar ars of choc ocolate co e studded colate studde with whole hole olee nuts nu such as macadamia and hazelnuts zelnuts tss o on one day ay and fresh fru fruit it on an old-fashione old-fashioned weighing scale, s thee n next. x At Gastro G t Sentra Sentral, entral al,

Food d writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, met Karen ren en Anan Anand has as journeye journey journeyed across s the world rld writing about abou gastronomy gastronomy.

RIS UR TOU TOUR y TOURISM ou tesy court cou Photo co


hree ee days da in Kua Kual u a Lumpur – sounds likee Lumpu the start of a H Hemingway ming novel. ovel.. It is a hu humid, mid, mid crowded rowded city, overrun overrun by buildings, buildings, flyovers and malls. malls. I visited it last last s several everal years ago ago,, when we came as a family to watch the Formula 1 at Sepang. One thing that hat has as remaine remained ned constant nstant despite all the change cha is the food od – Kuala Lump Lumpur ur is all about grea great food, ood, whether it’s it’s street food, restaurant restaurant stauran food or casual casua dining. T Today, d th the city ty rivals ivals Singapore Singapo as the culinary capital tal of Asia. I check into the newly refurbished refurbishe refurb Le Meridien (lemeridienkualalumpur (lemeridienkualalumpur ridie . com) right opposite opposite the Sentral railway railw ilway station, which is a convenient way to connect onnect to the ai airport rport and much better better ter than taking a taxi. taxi. The lobby area of the hotel otel is now known as the Hub. H Le Meridien foll follows a philosophy follows

the hotel’s hote s gastr gast stro o pub, pub ub executive chef ef Antoin Antoine A toine brings some somee real eall home styl sty e French specialiti cial es to KL – at breakf breakfast, apart part ffr from croiss ois ants, he also a di dishe hes es out some som excellen cellentt local special specialities such uch as nasi lemak lema . Often called the the national dish of Malaysia, nasi lemak is in fact a bre breakfast fastt dish. It is made m of rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaves, served served with sambal, anchovies anc es and a p peanu nuts — a bit of a fishy shy mouthf mouthful uthfu thful hf in the morning ning but undoubtedly ndoubtedly deli delic iciious. iou To discover the vvariety ariety of Kuala Lumpur’s mpur’s culin culinary culina offerings fferings in a sing ssingle place, ace, we he head to Lot 10 Hutong fo food od court ourt (50 Jalan J l Sultan Sultan Ismail; Tel: +603 2143 6092), located in the basement basement of a b busy and fashionable nabl stretch stre of Bukit B ukit Bintang. Bi Lot 10 is different because iit serves pork, which a lo ot of other Muslim food courts don’t. on’t. In fact, Lot 10 is Malaysia’s Malaysia’s ysia’s first nonnonhalal al food court. court Itt bringss togeth together toget er hawker stalls from from allll over th the ccountry in n one charming, Chinese hinese teahouse ambience. In ad ambie aaddition, itt iis air-conditioned ondition — a huge uge pl plus in this city.You can find all of KL’s L’s favourit favourite f dishes hess h here – rot r i canai can n i and nd roti ro jala a ala (lacy cy pancakes); pancak pancake chicken ken cur ke curry and Asam m laksa; a; beef b be

and chicken satay satay;; popiah opiah h or pancakes stuffed uffed with vegetables, vegetables, seafood seafoo and and chicken; mee goreng g g (or fried noodles); noodles); beef rendang rendang, g nasi goren gorengg, char har kuey teow teo (stir-fried ir-fried noodl noodles) es) and my favorite, fa favori te, bak ak kut teh h — a sort of he herbal, aromatic pork stew. Some names mes to watch out forr in Lot 10 are Klang g Bak kut ku teh teh an and

famous us for prawn noodles and d fried frie oysters. Then you have ave Ice Room, Room where here shaved ice ic (locally known as aiss kacangg) is topped with fresh fruit frui puréee and beans – an acquired taste pu taste. Thee pictures on the thee walls show th the owners wners off stal st stalls with local al celebr celeb celebrities iti s and the he prices are astoundingly h astoundin stoundingly

“In my room upstairs, instead of the boring fruit basket or chocolates wrapped in cling film, there are hand-broken bars of chocolate studded with whole nuts such as macadamia and hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on an old-fashioned weighing scale, the next.” Ho Weng Kee Wont Wonto Wonton Wo n Noodles, rated rat as onee of o the fou fourr be best noodle noo places c in Malaysia. The he special sspecialities specialitie sp pecial pe inclu lude de the he five-spice bee be f brisket beef et (fatt (fatty but very ry tasty) and tthe he braised pork rib rib in black ack bean an n sauce sau noodles. oodles. Kong Tai iss

7Eat Out

reasonable. onable. nab b If you you askk p politely, poli theyy will ill eve even bring tthe he dishes to yyour table tabl ab able blee so yyo you u don’t have to queue up. u . It is is advisable d to g go in a large l rge ge g group as we do — portions p are large rge and you ccan try y a variety riety ety of dishes disshe dishes.

Other her than the sh shopping, opping, w which wh is stupendous, tupendous, the the can’t-miss local local attractions are the the Central Market and Royal Selango Selangor. r. Central M Market ( is 120 ye years old. Originally a wet market, it now now houses a wholee bun bunch of stores from from tacky souvenir souv r sh shops opss to stores storees sto stocking cking genuin crafts from the region. genuine gion. Don’t Do Don n’t n ’t misss the art/craft art/craf cr t gallery (annex (annexegallery (anne gallery. llery. l com) m) on the second second floor fl floor. Central Market is a good place to pick up anything ything t th from m a coconut button bag b baag g to a bamboo fan fan. Thee Royall Selango S langor showroom (( ( y a or m) is a complete comple e surprise. se. I havee seen pew p pewter er store storess at airports rports ports bef before but never ever really really understood what all all the fuss uss iis about out. ou ut. t. Pewter er is an allo alloy y of tin, copper pp and d

Clockwise fro from facing acing page: pa Kuala a Lumpur Lumpu Lump is s overrun errun by skyscrapers; The he shaved ice dessert, ssert, ert, ais kacang ang g is s an a acquired acquire cquired u ed ed taste; ttast Petaling Petali ing Street S is s home to Kuala Lumpur’s um u umpur’s Chinatown; Chinat hina na own; n The he Hub at Le L Meridien; n; T n The e Lot 10 food od c court offers ers authentic Malaysian sian fare; fare r Satay atay is a p popu popular popular street st treet snack ck

M MALAYSIA ISM TOURISM courtes TOUR oto courtesy hoto Photo

A taste of Kerala

7Eat Away Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian state. P 125

masterclass chef skills



Masterclass Michelin-starred chef Koldo Royo from Koldo Royo in Spain makes his signature step-by-step seafood paella Recipe KOLDO ROYO Photographs ARVIND CHENJI

Seafood paella Serves 4 Q 45 minutes Q MODERATELY EASY sea bass 200g, deboned and skinned squid 200g, cleaned and skinned prawns 200g olive oil 2 tbsp garlic cloves 2, finely chopped romano flat green beans orr French beans a handful, chopped saffron 5g tomatoes 2, peeled and puréed sweet paprika 1 tbsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) bomba rice 400g, boiled (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) fish broth 1.5l salt to season


Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurantperfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 141

How to get the best from Good Food India Why y you y can cook our recipes with confidence

What our symbols mean

All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the first time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make, even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes. MODERATELY EASY These require a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry. A LITTLE EFFORT Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes. JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

How we triple p test our recipes

1 2 3

The first time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen. Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen. The recipe is then tested at our photo shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it. Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

Over to you Have a family recipe to share or think you could add to our recipes? Email us at [email protected] and let us know. We’re always on the look out for new places and food stories and would love to hear about great places to eat in your hometown.



Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort.

eat in show-off REALLY R REALLY EASY Y

QDrain the pears over a smalll pan. Divide them between 4 dessert se glasses or bowls. Boil Boil the syrup on on a high heat until reduced and thick T thick. Ta ake off the heat and stir in the chocolate until melted. ed.

F Food ood styl styling JO HARRIS

Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays.

QAdd 2 scoops of ice cream onto each e portion of pears p and pour over the ho ot chocolate sauce.. Top wi w th the choppe hopped ed nuts. QPER SERVING 354 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 53g, fat 15g, sat fat 8g, fibre 3g, sugar 51g, salt 0.19g




Recipe LUCY NETHE R RTON Photograph ph



Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.

Pears with speed Pe y cho choc sauce Serves 4 Q10 0 minute minutes

pear halves in in syrup syru 2 x 400g cans can chocolate 100g, chocola ch chopped into o small small chunks (try ry M Mo orde or Valrhona available at gourme met stores) vanilla ice cream 8 scoops hazelnuts 2 tbsp, toasted and d ch chopped

010-013-L2 show-off-STA N R1.indd 95

For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 151 16 BBC GoodFood

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA PROMISE We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this and every issue: TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients. THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge. GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers. SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct flavour and add seasonal freshness. This month, we’re eating a lot of jackfruit. HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20% indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover. PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Y Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them. CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists. BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read whether it’s worth swapping sugar for artificial sweeteners on p 50. APRIL 2013

Privilege Programme





SAFFRON TWIST If contemporary Indian cuisine’s on your mind, then Saffron at The Park, Kolkata is worth a trip. Revisit a variety of traditional cuisines such as North Indian, Bengali, South Indian and Chettinad, which have been given a modern treatment. You could begin with a Kolkata Chaat Platter or Paneer Sabzani Tikka and move on to Gosht Ki Dum Biryani with Kebab-eAkbari or Dal Makhani, Tandoori Lamb Chop and Garlic Naan for mains. End the meal with a Hazelnut Phirni. Also try their signature dishes that include Ravioli of Khumb with Truffled Makhni, Halim with Rocket Leaf, Coriander Chicken Satay and Chocolate Samosa with Caramelised Banana Sauce. In case you want to pair your food with some wine, you could go in for their wine-paired menus. The restaurant’s refurbished décor adds to its appeal and is inspired by the spice that it is named after. While the lobby at the entrance is made up of orange glass, the laminated glass doors have saffron accents. The jute wrapped panels on the ceiling and walls of the restaurant, as well as the hand blown glass lamps are eye-catching. So go ahead and feast on a variety of good food as you take in the aesthetic interiors of this pan-Indian restaurant.

All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India a, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a king’s feast. Which is why when you subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers. You can swing by over 150 hand-picked fine dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up fancy chef’s paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit

To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 17

Bru’ B u s ra r nge e of exo xotic coff ffee es prrom o is ises e you flavo vours s from across th he wo worl r d’s favour u ite coffee hubs - Brazil, Columbia Co ia, Kilimanj n aro and no an ow Guatem mal ala. a In n an effort to pr p omote the coffee culture, we e bring you u an exp pert’s guide to o enjoying yourr favourit fa o rite i e cu c pp ppa p a. he café culture has se e t in and is sl slowly creeping into our dailyy live es at a home an nd at work. Meetings over co o ffee have replaced boring boardrooms, too. But fo o r peop o le who h are looking for more than a qu q ic ickk c a fff ei eine fix at the neighbourhood café can find d a no nove v l alternative to satiate their daily cofffe f e ne n ed d s and be being g th t ei er own coffee coach makes all the e differe e nce.

2. Coffee terminology

1. Types of beans Ther Th ere er e ar are e pr prim im mar arilililyy tw two o ty type pess pe of bea eans ns tha hatt th he wo worlrlrld d dr drin i ks in ks.. The Th e fir first st is Ar st Arab abic ab ic ca an a d th the e s co se cond nd,, Ro nd Robu bust bu s a. st a.Th T e Ar Th A ab abic ca is ver eryy ririch ch h in ar arom o a an om a d fla flavo vour ur butt lo bu ow in n caffe afffe ein ine e wh whilile e Ro Robu bust bu sta st a iss ver eryy rir ch in ca caffffffei eine ei ne.. Co ne offfee e s are ar e of ofte te en bl b en ende ded de d to toge g th ge ther err to gett th ge the e be best st of bo both th wor orld lds, ld s, th he mo most st com ommo mon mo n bl blen e db end en bein be ing in g 70:3 70 :3 30 Ar A ab Arab abiic abic i a an nd Ro Robu R bust bu sa sta st a..

SAHI SA H L JA ATA TANA N , Coffeee Coach and Founder Diirect c orr, Caffffeinated Solutions LLP, is the expert on all thin ngs re elated l e to coffee. He conducts workshops on coffee,, trainin ng people to br b ew coffee at a hom me and an d exxpe perim me ent witith h iti too. He e chalks out the three m st mu st-k -k kno n w guid idel e in ness forr cof offee lovers.

A a cof As o fe ee en enthus u ia iast itt is imp m or o tant to know the comm co m on mm only lyy use sed d te erm ms related to coffee z Chicory: Itt is a pl p an antt ro oot tha at iss often use ed in the h s ut so u he hern rn n par artt of Ind n ia ia. Itt doe oesn sn n’tt add anyy cha hara r cter er to o the e cof offe fee e ex exce ce eptt bititte t rn te rness an a d solu l bi b lity ty. ty z Crema: Th he re r dd d ish h br brown froth co c vering n the su urf rfac ac ce of o a hig gh qual a ity cu up of o esp press sso. ss o. z Decaffeinated: Coffee with at le easst 97 7 per cen nt of its t oririgi gina gi na al ca caffffei eine con o te tent rem emov oved ed d. z Portafilter: A dev e ic ce ussed to o co omp pre ess coffffee co ee ins n ide id de a fil filte t r ba te bask s ett befor orre be begi g nn n in ng th he br b ew win ng op o er erat attio ion. n z Grande: Ittal alia ian n fo for “larrge ge”, a grand nde e is 450 5 ml of cof offe fe ee dr d ink. k.

3. Coffee brewing The most popular mac chi hines to beg e in n the brrew wing processs at hom o e ar a e th the e Dr Drip ip p Ma achin ne or the India an filte fillte t r, r the Esp spre ress re s o ss machin ma ne, e the h French Presss an nd the e Mo Moka ka Pot ot..

HOW’S YOUR INSTANT COFFEE MADE? Instant coffee as many believe is not chemically processed, it is simply pure coffee with the water content removed.

These crystals are removed through the process of sublimation and what remains is simply dry grains of your favourite rite coffe coffee. ee..

The two methods of producing instant coffee crystals are:


Freeze-drying This method preserves most of the coffee flavour. First, the coffee is allowed sit so the water evaporates naturally, leaving a concentrated coffee solution. The concentrate is then frozen at -40 degrees celsius, leaving ice crystals.

The initial process of evaporating g and leav leaving ving a concentrate is the same as it is s in the freeze-drying process. The concentrate centrate mber and is then sprayed in a hot-air chamber dry crystals of coffee fall to the e bottom of the chamber. However, in this process s som some me of the coffee flavour is lost due e to the e high h temperature used.


KNOW? z Bra razi zil pr prod oduc uces es 30 pe perr ce cent nt of the wo the worlrld’ d’ss to tota tall co coffffee ee? ? z Co Col olum um mbi bia’ a’ss sp pec ecia ialility ty cof offe fee e co come mess from ffrom m Ara abiica bea ans and is kn know own n world wide? w z Mou untt Kililim iman a ja jaro ro iss th the e ta llest tall e t fr f ee e sta tand n in ing g mo moun unta ta ain an nd thatt coffee c that iss gr grow ow wn at itits low wer er slopes is a maj ajo or expo p rt com om mmo m dity. modi mo dity di t. z Antigua in Gu Guat atem mal ala a is the mo most s cel e eb ebra rate ted d re regi gion on forr co fo coff offffee fee cul ultitiva ulti vatition on? ?


How to be a coffee connoisseur

Chefs Akshraj Jodha, Suresh Kumar, Gulam Qureshi, Jatin Mallick, Jerome Cousin, Varun Tuli, Manisha Bhasin, Ken Chong, Stanley Lum, Vikram Khatri and Manish Mehrotra at the ITC Maurya’s rooftop herb garden

Celebrating Good Food Day Reliving its outstanding success in Mumbai, the culinary extravaganza of Good Food Day, Delhi, held at the ITC Maurya was another feather in Good Food India a’s cap WHAT IS GOOD FOOD DAY?


In a nutshell, it’s a daylong celebration of delicious, gourmet food where we encourage you to try something new. While offering you a delectable spread of classics, we urge you to be a part of the currents coursing through the global culinary world with our inventive Pan-Asian, Indian and European menus.

Driven by the mantra, ‘Try Something New’, Good Food Day was held at the ITC Maurya in New Delhi over two days for lunch. The magazine celebrated the second edition of Good Food Day on March 1 and 2, 2013 in the capital and brought together 10 chefs to create culinary history. Celebrated chefs rustled up a gastronomic

Participating Restaurants:

20 BBC GoodFood

storm with an impressive eight-course feast, spread across three restaurants and cuisines – Indian, Pan Asian and European – that were created exclusively for the day. The cuisines were enjoyed by over 400 people at the ITC restaurants including Dum Pukht, My Humble House and West View – The Grill Room respectively. The formidable line-up of ITC chefs included chefs Gulam Qureshi, Akshraj Jodha, Suresh Kumar and expat Chinese chefs Stanley Lum and Ken Chong. Other celebrity chefs who participated included Chef Manish Mehrotra of Indian Accent, Chef Vikram Khatri of Ai and Olive Bar & Kitchen, Chef Varun Tuli from Yum Yum Tree, Chef Jatin Mallick from Tres and Chef Jerome Cousin from Rara Avis. Tickets were priced at ` 1,800 (inclusive of taxes) and the event was a smashing success with all seats being sold out days before the event. The day ended with happy foodies who left with memories of scrumptious food and interactions with the talented chefs.

Event Consultant:

APRIL 2013

7 WEST VIEW ‒ THE GRILL ROOM What do you get when two chefs specialising in contemporary European cuisine join forces with a classic French chef? A full-blown gastronomic feast showcasing the best in contemporary European and classic French food. To say that chefs Jerome Cousin, Jatin Mallick and Suresh Kumar rustled up a gastronomic storm in the kitchens of West View is an understatement. The eight courses included a delectable spread of dishes such as Snails with Garlic Butter Vol au Vent, Boletus, Bailing And Enoki Mushroom Mélange and Milk Chocolate Brûlée Tranche with Pistachio, Hazelnuts and Raspberry Coulis.

Left to right: Monisha Dewan, Vishal Singh and Rajat Tuli of Double Tree by Hilton; food blogger Parul Shirazi

ABOUT THE RESTAURANT West View – The Grill Room, the rooftop restaurant with a breathtaking view of Delhi’s green belt, offers irresistible contemporary western cuisine. West View brings together a careful selection of the most exquisite flavours from the Western world with an extravagant choice of grilled meats, fresh garden produce and breads straight from the oven. With traditional recipes from remote French chateaux, grill houses on the East and West coasts of America, the rosy kitchens of English manors, leisurely Mediterranean villas and bustling German marketplaces, it covers a wonderful plethora of a variety of fine cuisines.

Guests look forward to the spread at West View - The Grill Room

PARTICIPATING CHEFS Chef Jerome Cousin French national Jerome Cousin is the chef and owner of Rara Avis. Born in FrancheComté to a French father and Swiss-Italian mother, Cousin was groomed extensively at his family restaurant established three generations earlier.

“Good Food Day is a very innovative concept as guests can enjoy a gastronomical meal at a very affordable price. Also, it gives us an opportunity to work with other chefs in the kitchen of a five-star luxury hotel. I would be happy to COURSE 1 work on such events in the CRISPY FRIED GOAT’S CHEESE WITH OLIVE TAPENADE, TOMATO CHILLI JAM, APPLE & WALNUT DRESSING AND ROCKETT (CHEF JATIN MALLICK) future so that we can fulfill OR VOL AU VENT D’ESCARGOTS DE BOURGOGNE, BEURRE AILLÉ – SNAILS WITH GARLIC BUTTER VOL AU VENT (CHEF JEROME COUSIN) the aspirations of consumers COURSE 2 to enjoy a gourmet meal.” TARTARE OF EGGPLANT, PEPPERS AND HAND-PULLED MOZZARELLA WITH

French restaurant in Hammersmith, London called L’auberge at the Castelnau.









Chef Jatin Mallick Chef Jatin Mallick from Tres has had an illustrious career which boasts of accomplishments such as Executive Chef at Zest, New Delhi (now Set’z), Executive Chef of Intercontinental Marine Drive Mumbai and Head Chef of a

“The whole idea of cooking alongside so many chefs might seem like a nightmare, given our reputation, but it just worked out so beautifully.Working in a completely different atmosphere and with chefs from other restaurants to promote a innovative concept was exciting, to say the least.”

Chef Suresh Kumar Chef Suresh Kumar’s passion for cooking brought him to ITC Maurya in 1983. Having done his Bachelors in Commerce from Delhi University did not deter him from an illustrious career as a chef with the ITC. His career saw him handle responsibilities in the kitchen starting from the Pavilion Banquets’ kitchen to being a master chef for West View, the European grill restaurant since 1999.






Participating Restaurants:

APRIL 2013

Event Consultant:

Seafood sausage with wasabi crème frâiche and shaved fennel

“It was good fun working together with the other chefs and being part of this unique event. It was interesting to play with the theme “try something new” while creating the menu and offering something different to our guests.” BBC GoodFood 21

7 DUM PUKHT ITC’s Indian offerings and Chef Manish Mehrotra’s culinary genius need no introduction. At this grand event, ITC pulled out all the stops and collaborated with Chef Mehrotra to incorporate his interpretation of Modern Indian cuisine on the restaurant menu – the first of is kind anywhere in the country! The Kashmiri Morel Musallum, Gol mirch Ka Pulao and Maans Aur Pudine Ke Sooley were the piece de résistance of the entire meal.

ABOUT THE RESTAURANT The refined culture of courtly dining has been elevated to a sublime art at this award-winning restaurant in New Delhi which brings forth the grand cuisines of India. Its surprising array of aromatic dishes slow cooked in sealed deghss with handpicked spices to impart a delicate, alchemical infusion of flavours and textures and its impeccable, indulgent service have won Dum Pukht high praise and numerous accolades. COURSE 1






Left to right: Sidharth Sawhney, Chefs Jodha and Qureshi, Ramesh Menon, Rocky Mohan, Founder of Delhi Gourmet Club, Kainaz Contractor, Junior Food Editor, BBC Good Food and Tridip Sarkar

PARTICIPATING CHEFS Chef Gulam Qureshi Master Chef Gulam Qureshi honed his skills whilst working with his illustrious uncle, Chef Imtiaz Qureshi. Working for the ITC Maurya since 1977, it’s not surprising that Qureshi has become the brand custodian of the award-winning restaurant Dum Pukht.

“ Working together with chefs to come up with an exclusive menu was a great experience. Interacting, collaborating and working with a goal to make this an unforgettable experience was truly remarkable.”










Participating Restaurants:

22 BBC GoodFood

Event Consultant:

Writer Anisa Nariman with her brother Kaizad

Chef Manish Mehrotra Chef Manish Mehrotra of Old World Hospitality Pvt. Ltd is the driving force behind the award-winning Indian Accent in New Delhi. The restaurant was recently rated 41 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013.

“It was an amazing experience and a brilliant initiative.The idea of bringing together so many chefs from different backgrounds and specialisations is not only unique but also very enriching. I look forward to many such events.”

Chef Mehrotra’s Besan Ladoo Tart, Winter Fruits and Mithai Cheesecake

Chef Akshraj Jodha ITC’s Master Chef Akshraj Jodha comes from the direct lineage of the Jodhpur royal family where he honed his culinary skills. He has also conducted extensive research on the royal foods of Rajasthan.

“Three chefs working and creating menus under one roof created a spark and churned out an balanced and outstanding menu. It was great to create something unique.” APRIL 2013

7 MY HUMBLE HOUSE Asian cooking has always found favour amongst diners in New Delhi, be it the subtle flavours of Cantonese food or the bold and robust ones of Thai cooking. Which is why when chefs Vikram Khatri, Varun Tuli, Stanley Lum and Ken Chong got together to create a menu with Asian classics and modern interpretations, it was a riot of textures, colours and flavours on a plate. The standout dishes for the afternoon were Khatri’s Pork Belly, Lum and Chong’s Wok-seared Lamb on Radish Cake and Tuli’s Yuzu Cheesecake.

Guests savouring their meal at My Humble House

ABOUT THE RESTAURANT This elegant rooftop restaurant at ITC Maurya presents a delicate spread of neoclassical Chinese cuisine, which translates into the sublime marriage of traditional Chinese cuisine with global touches.

PARTICIPATING CHEFS Chef Varun Tuli Engineer-turned-restaurateur Varun Tuli is the Managing Director of Tusaj Lifestyle Private Limited, the organisation which owns The Yum Yum Tree — a one of a kind pan-Asian restaurant and sushi bar.

“Good Food Day was a fantastic opportunity to bring hotels and standalone restaurants together in the name of, well, good food.The ITC and BBC Good Food were both phenomenally cooperative in understanding the COURSE 1



challenges associated with the event and delivered fully.”

Chef Vikram Khatri After a stint at Sakura, Khatri joined the Olive Group as the Executive Chef of Ai. Khatri brought home several accolades including the award for Best Japanese Restaurant by Hindustan Times and Best Sushi Chef.

“The idea of bringing chefs together makes such an event unique.This event brought many innovative minds together and provided a platform to work on a well-constructed menu.The event was definitely praiseworthy and kudos to Executive Chef Manisha Bhasin for that!”

Left to right: Akshay Modi, CEO of Modi Naturals with a guest and Lokesh Arora of Good Food Left to right: Prathna Tuli, Chef Varun Tuli and guest









Chefs Stanley Lum and Chef Ken Chong The kitchens at My Humble House is led by a stellar team of two talented chefs – Stanley Lum and Ken Chong from My Humble House, Singapore. They both spent their early days working in Malaysia learning about the finer nuances of Chinese food.

“Good Food Day was a great concept and gave us the opportunity to interact and work with some of the other great chefs in Delhi and learn from one other.”


GUESTS SPEAK “I wish I’d booked my table earlier, Missing the Good Food Day Delhi is such a bad omen, the event’s already sold out (tummy crying).” - Reeta Skeeter “The Kashmiri Morel Mussalam by Manish Mehrotra is amazing.” - Aparna Jain


“I’m super excited for Good Food Day Delhi. I had such a good time. Thank you BBC Good Food magazine.” - Preeti Dhingra




Participating Restaurants:

APRIL 2013

Event Consultant:

Wok seared lamb on radish cake with olive fried rice

“Nice, lovely lunch at the ITC Hotels on Good Food Day. Loved the entire 5-course meal; everything from the Kakori Kebab to the Besan Ladoo ka Tart.” - Aman

BBC GoodFood 23

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Guilt-free feasts Indulgence without guilt – that was the theme of Nutrela Premium Table Spread’s week-long food festival held in association with Good Food India


s your breakfast incomplete without a slice of toast slathered with butter? Can’t finish your aloo paratha without a dollop of makkhan on the side? Counting calories notwithstanding, most of us cannot give up butter because of its incredible taste. Fortunately, there’s now an option to eat healthy without having to compromise on taste. Nutrela Premium Table Spread’s food festival from February 23 to March 3 was all about indulging in good food. The event, conducted in association with Good Food India, was held at eight restaurants across Mumbai. Apart from special menus that included recipes prepared with Nutrela table spread, health-conscious customers also opted for dishes from the regular menu cooked using the product.


While Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf outlets served the table spread along with their eggs to order and pancakes, Out of The Blue offered eggs, pancakes, French toast, waffles, bread and breakfast roll baskets, as well as Indian breakfast dishes like paratha and egg bhurji. Bruschetta with Nutrela garlic butter and parsley or mozarella cheese was on offer at Pizza By The Bay. The Bombay Blue Masala Double Decker with potato masala, cheese, chutney, tomato and cucumber was a hit with customers who said they couldn’t make out any difference in taste. Also on offer were sandwiches including Chilli Cheese Burst, Roast Vegetable Burger, as well as Big Blue Chicken Burger. The menu at the Italian bistro Mia Cucina included a variety of antipasti like garlic bread, risotto and mozarella balls along with grilled chicken and polenta skewers. Guests could choose from pastas, risottos and a variety of vegetarian, meat and seafood mains. The Ravioli di Pesce con Pomodori or fish ravioli in roasted cherry tomato sauce was a dish that several diners liked.












1. Brunch at Eat Around The Corner 2. Lagerbay’s Prawns Calamari Ajillo 3. Cookies made with Nutrela table spread 4. Left to right: Sandipan Ghosh, AVP (Marketing), Ruchi Soya; Good Food's Reena Dave, Sona Bahadur, Priyanka Hosangadi, Jyoti Verma, Leena Bhandari and Sajid Hussain; Kevin Jacob from Soho Square and Ruchi Soya's Dhawal Masrani 5. Breakfast at Eat Around The Corner 6. Pizza By The Bay’s garlic bread 7. Interior designer Aakif Habib 8. Mia Cucina's Pollo Scallopine Piccata 9. Diners enjoying the brunch at Bombay Blue 10. Jyoti Verma with guests in conversation with Chetan Washikar, Executive Chef, Mars Group 11. Diners at Chez Moi 12. Sam Pittalwala, Head of Agribusiness at ANZ Bank and family 13. Diner about to have breakfast at Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf 14. Diner placing an order at Pizza By The Bay 15. Left to right: Ratna Mazumdar, Jayshree Menon, Jyoti Verma and Kiran Advani

Chez Moi at Bandra Reclamation rustled up a creamy Butter Corn Soup, Penne Pesto with Sundried Tomato, Pasta Arrabiata, Chicken Drums in Herbed Nutrela Butter Sauce, and a Coriander Beurre Blanc or Nutrela lemon sauce with herbs and coriander, served with fish. Lagerbay’s Prawns Calamari Ajillo or shrimp and calamari sautéed in Nutrela table spread and white wine struck a chord with customers, as did the Lava Chocolate Cake. The festival ended with a lively brunch at Eat Around The Corner in Bandra. Those present included Bhagwan Advani, CEO of K Raheja Hospitality and his wife Kiran; Sam Pittalwala, head of agribusiness at Australia and New Zealand bank; interior designer Aakif Habib; journalist Jayashree Menon and child psychologist Ratna Mazumdar. Guests gorged on a smorgasbord of breads, pasta, salads, sandwiches and desserts. They also got to try the special menu with three recipes prepared with Nutrela table spread — Garlic Bread, Chicken Rosti and EATC's special cookies. The successful get together ended three hours later and satiated foodies left with memories of the sumptuous spread, knowing they had indulged in healthier food.

first bite news, trends, shopping

first bite Chutney Nation Rustle up these brilliant Indian chutneys in a riot of perky colours and flavours Recipes AMIT PAMNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA

FLAVOUR BOMBS Chutneys have always been an integral part of any Indian meal. Travel to any state of India and the local cuisine will have several chutneys innate to that region. They impart tanginess, spiciness or sweetness to any meal. And unlike pickles, they can be used as sandwich fillings, dips, marinades or simply enjoyed on their own. These chutneys last up to three days in the fridge or up to a month in the freezer.

first bite news, trends, shopping

Dip right in!

Feisty chutneys teamed with earthy khakras spell jaded-palate nirvana Peanut chutney Makes 1 bowl Q5 minutes QEASY QPut 1 cup peeled, roasted peanuts, 2-3 peeled garlic cloves, 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tbsp lemon juice and salt in a blender. Add a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 221.75 kcals, protein 8.95g, carbs 9.43g, fat 18.33g, sat fat 2.58g, fibre 3.43g, salt 0.1g

blend until it resembles a coarse powder. QPER SERVING 262.75 kcals, protein 1.65g, carbs 5.53g, fat 26.58g, sat fat 1.70g, fibre 1.38g, salt 0.1g

Dry coconut and garlic chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QDry roast 1 cup freshly grated coconut or dried desiccated coconut, 2 tsp red chilli powder, 2-3 sliced garlic cloves, 1 tsp each of turmeric powder, coriander powder, cumin powder and fennel seeds for approximately 5 minutes in a non-stick pan on slow heat. Add 1 tsp salt and mix well. Allow to cool. Blend the mixture in a mixer without adding any water. QPER SERVING 262.25 kcals, protein 1.78g, carbs 45.23g, fat 8.15g, sat fat 7.05g, fibre 2.63g, salt 0.6g

Papad chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoast 5-6 papads on a hot griddle. Deep fry 1 sliced onion in 100ml oil until golden. Roast 1 tbsp sesame seeds on a griddle. Crush the papad roughly with your hands. Put the crushed papad, fried onions and sesame seeds along with a pinch of salt, 1 tsp red chilli powder and 1 tsp amchoor powder in a blender and

Beetroot chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoughly chop 1 peeled beetroot and 1/2 peeled onion. Mix 2 chopped green chillies, 2 tbsp mint leaves, 2 peeled garlic cloves, 5-6 curry leaves, a pinch of salt and 1 tsp lemon juice together. Add 1 tbsp cashewnuts and 1 tsp sugar. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and add a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 29.25 kcals, protein 0.83g, carbs 4.70g, fat 0.98g, sat fat 0.18g, fibre 0.63g, salt 0.1g

Raw mango chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY

Avla chutney Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes QEASY QRoughly chop 3 avlas. Mix 2 tbsp chopped coriander, 1 chopped green chilli, salt to taste, 1 tbsp peeled peanuts, 1 tsp roasted sesame seeds, 1 peeled garlic clove and 1 tsp sugar with the avla. Put all the ingredients in a blender with a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 38 kcals, protein 1.08g, carbs 4.38g, fat 2.10g, sat fat 0.23g, fibre 1.38g, salt none

QRoughly chop 1 raw mango without peeling it. Mix 1/4 chopped onion, 3 tbsp freshly grated coconut or dried desiccated coconut, 2 chopped green chillies, 2 chopped garlic cloves and 1 tsp lemon juice. Add a pinch of salt, 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tbsp sugar. Combine all the ingredients in a blender with a little water, just enough to make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth. QPER SERVING 65.75 kcals, protein 0.63g, carbs 15.85g, fat 0.65g, sat fat 0.35g, fibre 1.63g, salt none

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THE JURY’S OUT Sweet meets savoury THE CASE FOR THE CASE AGAINST Sweet encroaching into savoury I heart desserts, but spare me territory is far from blasphemous. the savoury dishes with sweet Think Gujarati food with its accents, please. Why would brilliant marriage of contrasting you have pineapple with ham flavours. The khatti-meethii dal is as a pizza topping or a dish like a divine blend of sweet, sour and bacon jam? The very thought of spicy. Or think sweet chilli jam, it is anathema. Waxing pretty which imparts feisty about the symphony of contrast to a sweet and savoury cheese platter. is very well but Purists might there’s a fine raise their line between an eyebrows at the evolved dish and idea of peach in a a culinary crime. I’ve blue cheese sandwich, ordered some interesting Pineapple and bacon pizza or meat marinated with sounding items only to be sweetened cocoa, but isn’t left spooning out sugareating all about experimenting? A coated pieces of meat. Yuck! After slight sweet element in a savoury these unsavoury experiences, dish heightens the flavours and I’ve come to a clear conclusion: creates balance. If you can obsess food should not sit on the fence over salted caramel, why not between sweet and savoury. It chocolate-glazed pot roast? should make up its mind! - KHORSHED DEBOO - PRIYANKA HOSANGADI

How to use up… 7Chicken arrabbiata Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Add 2 sliced red chillies and fry. Pour in 400g pasta sauce and 350ml red wine, turn up the heat and allow it to bubble. Stir in 2 tsp chopped thyme and seasoning. Add 6 skinless chicken legs, part-cover the pan and simmer. Remove the lid and cook until the chicken is tender. Garnish with parsley y and serve with mashed potatoes. 7Bloody mary bolognese Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan, then add 400g beef mince. Cook well, then add 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce and 1 glass red wine. Slowly cook for 30 minutes to an hour. Meanwhile cook 500g penne pasta according to pack instructions. Drain, then throw the pasta into the pan with 350g pasta sauce and mix it together. Serve with some grated cheddar cheese on the top. 7Gnocchi with creamy tomato and spinach sauce Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Fry 2 crushed garlic cloves until golden and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in 140g mascarpone, then cook for 2 minutes more. Meanwhile, boil 500g gnocchi. Add 200g chopped spinach. Drain well, pour back into the pan, then stir in 400g pasta sauce. Mix well and serve with basil leaves and parmesan shavings scattered over. 7 Try Jamie Oliver’s Tomato and Basil Pasta Sauce available at gourmet stores, ` 225 for 350g.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Pop into Foodhall after work and beat the price of a takeaway y for two


+ =



` 253


Instant deli pizza Serves 2 Q 20 minutes Q EASY

Heat the oven to 200°C. Top a pizza base (` (` 25) with slices of Impero Fresh mozzarella (` (` 175/150 175/150g). ) Scatter S tt some chopped mushrooms (` ( 18/100g) and red and yellow bell peppers (` ( 25/200g) then bake for about 12 minutes, or until the mozzarella is melted and bubbling. Scatter over fresh basil (` (` 10/bunch) and serve. 30 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013

need to know news, trends, shopping

Trends we like PRETTY APRONS

Add a pop of style to your kitchen time with these colourful must-buys American Swan Springfield Star Apron from, ` 1,199

Authentic Kitchen Set from Sanctum, Mumbai, ` 1,225 32 BBC GoodFood

Striped Linen Kitchen Set from Sanctum, Mumbai, ` 1,225

Barbecue Phoebe Patchwork Apron from The Shop, Mumbai, ` 726

Sweet Love Apron from, ` 249

Tasty Turnip Apron, available at, at ` 850

APRIL 2013

need to know news, trends, shopping



Missionary’s Downfall

What’s not to love about bars that let you make like you’re in Polynesia with Mai Tais and umbrella-clad cocktails?

Makes 1 Q20 minutes + cooling QEASY


Banish the summer heat with this cooling tiki cocktail

Is it a cake? Is it a lollipop? Wait, it’s both! Culinary deceit is allowed when it comes as a mini cake on a stick.


7INDIAN COCKTAILS With classic flavours making a comeback, are we seeing the last of curry leaves in our cocktail glasses?

Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block

THE PIER, MUMBAI With a dearth of restaurants in Mumbai taking advantage of the city’s quayside, The Pier comes as a breath of fresh air. Done up in hues of blue, this European fine dining restaurant has a well-stocked bar and is open only for dinner. While the menu largely leans towards seafood, it also features a mix of other offerings such as a hearty beef burger, Truffle-scented Bhurji and crème brûlée. Lap up the ambience as you sip on Italian wine from their vast selection. 34 BBC GoodFood

THE FLYING ELEPHANT, CHENNAI A visit to the Park Hyatt’s newest eatery is like enjoying a theatrical performance. Opulently lit, it is spread over seven levels and has six interactive kitchens. With Turkish, Southeast Asian and Indian fare, you’re spoilt for choice. The menu boasts some inventive dishes — Spicy Turkish Lamb, Chestnut Tagliatelle and Raspberry Sorbet Champagne. Don’t miss their heady Prohibition era cocktails.




Thumbs photographs 123RF/ARCADY31

RESTAURANTS Escalating real estate and labour costs are making it hard for our favourite dosa hangouts to stay afloat.

Recipe courtesy ALIBI-BAR.CO.UK Photograph GARETH MORGANS

Put some chunks of freshly cut pineapple in the freezer for a few hours. Meanwhile, make a simple mint syrup by blanching some mint sprigs in 200ml boiling water, then dissolving 200g sugar in the mixture and letting it cool. In a blender, put two large chunks of the frozen pineapple, add 50ml Bacardi rum, 20ml peach liqueur, 15ml of the mint syrup and a handful of crushed ice (use a rolling pin to crush ice cubes in a bag if you need to). Blend for a few seconds until smooth, then pour into a piña colada glass or a tall-stemmed wine glass and garnish with a sprig of mint and a slice of pineapple.


Photograph 123RF/JOERG BEUGE


This month’s good vibes and gripes

ROYAL VEGA, CHENNAI Nestled within the palatial ITC Grand Chola, Royal Vega is deemed the ‘first-ever vegetarian fine dining restaurant in the world.’ Giving locally sourced veggies a global twist in regional Indian cuisine is its USP. The menu features dishes made using Vedic cooking techniques — like the use of pure ghee, and something sweet at the beginning of the meal. So the next time you’re looking for a twist to ghar ka khana, you know where to head. APRIL 2013

need to know pantry basics


Instant dal makhani Packaged foods score on convenience but do they pass muster on the taste test? We test six brands of ready-to-eat dal makhani to find out Text KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Product courtesy FOODHALL Photographs SHRYEA GUPTA

KITCHENS OF INDIA A ` 95/285g From a brand that’s not just the costliest but also a part of the ITC mother ship and carries the Bukhara stamp, our expectations are nothing short of sky high. We open the package anticipating multiple servings but find it rather testing to finish what’s already in our bowl. The ho hum dal is mildly tart with tomato paste overpowering whatever traces of spices can be found. Ready in a jiffy, this dal that carries the name of the illustrious restaurant Bukhara, is surprisingly less impressive than its mainstream sister brand, Aashirvaad. Even the white butter couldn’t impart its inherent richness to this dal, making us reach for some added cream and butter.

SOUL ` 49/300g Soul’s dal makhani may be the most economical of the lot but we’ll gladly pay more for a more palatable dal. The dal is of a thin consistency and has an overpowering taste of masala. Unlike most other packaged dals that are heavily flavoured with processed tomato paste, this one has an odd and disagreeable taste of preservatives. Their suggestion is to add a dollop of butter before serving, but the generous layer of oil floating on top makes us choose otherwise. If you must, salvage this dal with the addition of some cream, butter and chopped ginger.

MTR ` 60/300g What strikes us about this Bengaluru institution’s dal is the jarring use of masalas that jolts us straight out of our cream-and-butter-induced spell. The sourness of the tomato paste is dominant and butter is used conservatively. Adding to that is the preference of milk over cream in the dal, resulting in a mildly creamed version of the North-Indian favourite. Eat this one with a butter naan instead of rice to disguise the sharp spices. The absence of trans fat and hydrogenated vegetable fat is commendable.

AASHIRVAAD ` 60/285g In our quest to find the dal that spells homely comfort, Aashirvaad emerges as the clear runner-up. The creamy consistency and the mild flavours of the dal are best eaten with jeera rice or a spiced paratha. Even if you’re a purist about dal makhani, this packaged one might just win its way on to your plate. The masalas are sparingly used which makes it perfect for spice-sensitive palates. The white butter added in place of yellow butter also adds character and richness to the dal. So good!

36 BBC GoodFood



KOHINOOR ` 55/300g We predict this little packet of creamy indulgence will soon be stocked in hostel rooms and in kitchens to be brought out on a rainy day or to satisfy those insatiable midnight dal makhani cravings. Kohinoor’s packaged dal is a mix of black lentils, kidney and split gram and has a rich gravy with no unappetising oil slick. Of all the dals we tested, Kohinoor comes as close to the real thing as a packaged product can. It is also the product that has the cleanest flavours, with no overpowering sourness of tomato paste or masalas. A bite of ginger, to go along with the green chilli in the dal, will certainly elevate it to a regular at the dinner table.

Buying tip:

While choosing a dal makhani, look out for the proportion of tomato purée used. A higher one will result in a sour and unpleasant aftertaste. Also look for the brand which has the least unsaturated fat.

APRIL 2013

need to know news, trends, shopping


Good Food d tracks down this month’s best value foodie events, meals and deals.

All prices PER HEAD excluding taxes and travel




7 Mozzarella and salami s ciabatta atta (p 103) ` 286 7 Linguine with cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese (p 68) ` 292 7 Pears with speedy choc sauce (p 95) ` 248 Total ` 826 (`` 206.5 per head)




Rarely do we rave about cocktails at restaurants but we can vouch for those at the Smoke House restaurants. That’s why we’re super thrilled about Smoke House Grill’s newest offering – The Smoke House Cocktail Club. In essence, it is a happy hours offer with a 1 + 1 on all smoked classics, molecular creations as well as the season’s best concoctions. This isn’t the place to play safe with classic cocktails; give in to the creations of the innovative bartenders who churn out delicious smoked mojitos and deconstructed watermelon caipiroskas. On a notso-busy night, position yourself near the bar, order something off menu and leave the rest to the bartender. Who knows, you might just get a crash course in mixing molecular cocktails! Tel: +91 01141435531

Packed to the gills with heart-friendly nutrients, fish is a jewel in your dietary crown. We explore the incredible bounty of local Indian varieties Words SANGRAM SAWANT Photograph SANJIV VALSAN


o whom do we human beings owe our superior intellect? We have not just our genes to thank or a miracle of evolution. A silent debt of gratitude is also due to a humble ancestor who decided a couple of million years ago to eat fish! Scientists from around the world believe that the Omega and Omega-3 fatty acids from fish oils have contributed to the growth of the human brain and played a pivotal role in improving the intelligence of early humans. There’s plenty of evidence to suggest that fish has been a vital part of the human diet since early civilisation. Archaeological sites from

around Africa (such as Lake Turkana in Kenya’s Rift Valley and Mossel Bay in the South Cape) have thrown up bone fossils of fish with scar wounds from weapons that were used to kill and carve them up to eat. In India too, recorded history indicates that seafood was consumed during the Harappan civilisation and the Vedic period. Our ancestors were wise enough to realise that seafood doesn’t just taste great but fortifies the body as well. As a country with an extensive coastline and excellent freshwater sources, India has an unbelievable bounty of seafood. Approximately 11 per cent of the world’s seafood species are found in India. Of these 2,200 or so

spotlight indian fish sp pecciees, app ppro r xi ro x maate tely ly two wo-tth hiird r s (o ( r 1,44 1, 44 40 sp pec ecie i s)) are parrt of ie o the h mar arin ine n ecos ec osys yssteem, y m, whi hich cch h inc nclu l de lu dess th t e Ar Araab abia ian n Seea an S nd th he Baay of of Ben ngaal, whi hile le th the he re rest st aree div ivid ided id ed d bet etwe ween en n war arm m fres fr eshw shw hwat ater at e s, er s inc nclu udi ding ng lak a ess and river iv ver e s, b ac br acki kish ki sh wat a errs or o est s uaari ries e where es s aw se water atter e mix i es wit ix ith h fr fres esh h wa wateer frrom m riive vers r , an nd colld fre resh shwa w ters teers..

SEAFOOD CONSUMPTION IN INDIA It stand nds to reaaso s n th that sea eafood o od co cons onssum mpt ptio ion n iss hig ghe hest st in In Indi diaa aallon o g th t e we west s and st n eas astt co coas a ts, in i p ni pe nins nsul ullarr Ind u n iaa and in We W st Ben enga gaal. l The ab Th abun bu un ndaanc nda ncee an and d va varri riet e y off sea e fo ood av vai a labl laabl b e in n the h se reg gions io ons n of tth he co c un ntr tryy hass sp ha spaw aw wn need an n ast s on onis ishi h ng hi g diver iv ver ersi siity in sity thei th e r us usee in local all cuiisi sine n . If you ne u wer eree to trav tr avel vell dow wn In Indi d a’ di a’ss we w ste sttern rn co coas asst fr from om Guja Gu jaara r t to o Ker eral alaa an al nd up the h easst co oas astt frrom om Tam a ilil Nad du to o Wesst Be Beng ng gall, yo you a e like ar k lyy to taast ke stee at a lea eastt 15 di diffe ffeere ffere r ntt prep pr epar a at ar atio io onss mad adee of the sam amee po popu pu ulaar sttaple stap l – pom mfr fret et. Maarr r ie ied d wi with th loc o al a flavo fla vour vo u s an ur nd sp pices es, ea e ch dis ish h is i tru r ly l uniq iq que ue.. Th This is expla xp pla lain inss wh w y In Indi dia ha di h s such su ch a ricch reepe p rt rtoi o ree of se oi seaffoo ood d di dish s ess. sh The no Th nomenclla lature of seve lat seevera veera ral sp s eccie iess of fish s diff ffer ffer ers rs geeog o raaph hiccal ally lyy and nd from om m com ommu muni nity ni tyy to co c mm mmun unit un ity. y. Forr inst in stan st a ce ce,, a Be Beng ngal alli wo woul uld d kn know w the sea e b ss as Be ba B ng n alli be b tk tkii whilee som omeo e ne eo n in Mumba um mba b i wo w ul u d re reco c gn nisse it i as th the A ia As ian n se seaa bass baass. Ma Maha harash htr t iaans n ref efer er to o thee su th s rmaii as to t ar ar, whi hile lee thee Spa pani niiar a ds ds cons n um u e th thee sa same mee var arie ieta taal as kin tal ingfi gfi fish sh.

A QUESTION OF TASTE Reegi g on naall loy o alti alti al ties to fis ties fish ar a e ve very ry strro on ng and an d in influ fluence the flu fluen he loc o al cui uisi uisi sine ne.. Fo ne or i sttan in ancee, fr f es eshw hwat hw ater er fish fou ound nd in th t e H og Ho ghl hlyy an nd Pa Padm dma riive dma dm vers r , su rs such ch h as r hu ro u an a d ca atl tla a, ar aree wi wide deely pre refe f rr fe rred e ed in Wesst Be B ngall, wh w erre fis fish h iss muc u h mo oree tha h n me mere ree foo o d. But the he piè ièce ce dé rési ré sist sttan ance is th ance t e le lege gend ndar aryy hi hils lsa, a alsso llo oca callllyy kn know o n as illis ish h. To T say a it is a mer ee delilica de c cy wou ca uld d be rega gard rded ed as an ins nsul ult. t. Thiis tho Th horn rnyy fis fish h ha hass in incr cred edib ible le flav avou ourr — lilitt tttle won onde d r th de that at it is an ob obse sess ssio ion, n, a cu culilina nary na ryy leg egen en nd, d a pol o it itic ical al bar arom omet eter er and an d sh how owst sttop oppe per, r, all rol olle led d in into to one ne!! Hist Hi stor oric ical ally lyy, wa wars rs hav avee be been en fou ough ghtt gh APR PRIL IL 2013

over er thi hiss fis fi h. h Eve ven n to oda day, y,, pittch hed baatttle less arre foug ught ug h in th ht t e fis fish hb baazaaar arss of B ng Be n al a ove verr th thee ch c oi oice cest stt hili sa sa, wh w icch is avai av aila labl blle du durring g the rai ainy nyy mo on nth thss fr from om m June Ju nee to Occto obe ber. r. Hililsa saa roe o is also also al s a p izzed del pr e ic icac acy in i the sta tate te, co cons nsid ider dered ed th the he Be B ng ngalli equiva vale alentt of caavi v arr. Ap parrt fr from Wesst Be B ng ngal al, fres frre hw hwat a er at e fissh co c mm mmon only ly kno nown no w as ca wn carp rp is al also so f un fo und d in n the Dal Lak akee in n Kas ashm hm mir. Simi Si m la mi larl rly, y, riv iver erin inee tr trou ou ut th t att beellon ong g to th he sa s lm mon n famililyy arre al a so fou ound nd in thee co th c ld d wat ater e s of er o Him imac acha hal Prrad ades esh. h T iss iss al Th also so o cat a eg gor oris i ed is d as fr fres e hw es h at ater e er prod pr oduc uce. uc e. e. O the On hee other th her er han and, d sallttw wat ater er fish h s ch su c as tuna tu una n , ki k ng n fis fi h, sal a mo m n, su surm mai, i, rawa ra w s, gh g oll, h ha alw wa,, tr t ev eval ally lyy, saarrd din ines e, ta taam aam mb (o (orr re red d sn snap ap ppe per) r), ) bboomb mbill (or

th hat pow wer man anyy ch c em mic i al rea eact ctio ions ns and an d th thee ha haem emog oglo og lo obi bin n th that at car arri ries es thee ox th oxyg ygen yg n in ou ourr blloo o d. Aqu quat atic ic s ec sp ecie iiees ar aree co consid id der ered ed a hea ealt lthi hier err s ur so urce c of pr ce prot o eiin th than han n liv ives esto es tock ck.. Be ck Beef eff, pork po rk and nd chiick cken en hav ave th thei eir po positi tive ve atttr trib ibut u es ut es,, bu butt no none ne of th hes esee off ffer e the er comp co m ou o nd nded ed nutri uttriti tion on nal ben nefi efits t tha ts h t aree fo ar f un nd in fish h. Fish Fi sh h is low low in pot oten enti t al ally l art ly r er eryyclog cl o gi og ging ng satur urat ated ed d fat at.. In nsttea ead, d, it is d, p ck pa cked d wit ith h heear artt-fr t-fr f ie iend nd ndly dly Ome m ga g -3 f tt fa ttyy accid ids, s and oth ther e go er oo od fa fats ts suc uch h as DHA A, or o ig gin inal ally al ly y fou ound nd d in th thee micr mi c oa cr oalg lgae lg ae tha hatt aarre ea eate ten n by b fish h..Th T es Th esee n tr nu t ie ient n s ar nt a e sa said id d to pr prom mote he heal alth t y th eey ye an and d br brai ain n de d ve velo lo opm p en entt in in chi h ld ldre dreen n.. M lttip Mu iple le res esea earc ea rch st rch stud ud diees al also so o ind n ic icat atee tth haatt mon ono o an and d po p ly lyun u sa un satu tu uraateed fa f tt ttyy

“The nomenclature of several species of fissh differs geographically. For instance, fi a Bengali would know the sea bass as betki while someone in Mumbai would recognise it as the Asian sea bass” Bo ay ducck)) and Bombay nd India nd dia ian n ma mack cker e el er aree fo ar foun und un d on on the wes este t rn te r and eas aste t rn te c assts co t . States es suc uch uc h as Mah har aras assht htra ra,, Goa, Ker e al alaa an nd Ta T mi m l Na Nadu du have comp co mple mp l x, deccad ades ess-o old d tradi raadi diti tiion onss of o c ok co okin ing wiith t fish h. I som If o eone fro rom m th thee in inte teri rior orss of thee co th coun ntrry accu cu usttom med d to o th he taast s e of o ffrresshwat water e fish sh tri ries es surm rmai or ra awa w s, it i i likkely is ly th that hat he or or she he mig ight ht not car aree m ch mu h for its tas aste te. Th T e re reve vers rsee al also so o hol olds ds true tr uee. T Th he ge gene nera raal co cons n en ns nsu suss on tas aste tee is that th at sal a twater er fish sh hav avee fir firm, m,, meaaty ty flessh, a hi high gher err fat con onte tent and are geen tent ner e ally allly m re flav mo vo ou urfful u com o pare paared d to o the h irr fres fr e hwat hw water e cou unt nterpa part pa rts. s. On the ot othe herr hand ha n , fr nd fres essh hw watter er fish sh hav ve an ear arth thie th ierr flavo fla v ur and slilghtl vo gh htlyy sw weeete t r ta t st ste. e.

WHY SHOULD YOU EAT FISH? O e of thee mosst si On sign g ifi gn ifica cant nt atttri ribu bute tes of allll kin nds of fis fish h is tha hatt th hey are hig igh h in pro rote tein in,, on onee of the bui uild ldin ing g bl bloc ocks ks of ourr bo ou ody dy.. Fo F un und d in mus uscl clle, e bon one, e, ski kin, n, haair and vir irtu tual ally ly eve very ry tis issu suee or o par artt of thee bo th body dy,, pr prot otei ein n co cont ntai ains ns thee enz n ym ymes es

a id ac ds pr prot otec ot eecct ag a ai ains nstt se ns seve vera rall fo form rmss of canc ca ncer nc er. Ea Eati ting ti ng fish h reg egul u ar ul arly ly has bee een n s ow sh wn to o red educ ucee th thee pr prob obab ab billit ityy of o clo lott form fo rmat atio ion, n, low ower er blo lood od pre ress ssur uree an nd incr in crea ease se lev evel elss of goo ood d ch chol oles este tero roll in n t e bl th b oo o d dsstr t ea e m, the here reby by dec ecre reas asin ing g th thee risk of heear a t di dise seas ase. e e. Desp De spiitee the weelll-p -pub blilici ciise sed d be bene n fit ne fitss of eat a in ing ng fish, fish, fis h sev e eral erral myt yths hs pre revaail abou ab ou ut itts co onsum nsum ns umpt ptio ion (see ee box ox). ). Butt w ililee mo wh most stt of th thes esse peerccep pti tion onss — on such su ch h as no nott ea eati ting ng g fish h in th he mo m ns nsoo oon n — ha h vee no ba basi siis in n fac a t, ove verfi rfish shin ing g and ovver e explloiita tati tiion n of ou ourr ma mari rine ri ne reso re esour sourrce so c s is a mat atte terr off con o ceern rn,, wh whiich ich i lik is i elly to hav avee se seri riou ouss re repe peerc rcus usssi s on ons ns in n the yea ears rs to co come me.. As res espo po onssiib ble cons co nsum umer e s off sea eafo food od,, we nee eed d to ensu en sure re tha hatt th thee fis fish h we w eat at is ha harv r es rv este ted d keep ke epin ing g th he su sust stai aina nabi bilility ty of th he eccosys ecos yste tem m in min ind. d. One n of th he mo most stt sign si gnifi ifica cant nt thr hrea eats ts is th thee ha harv rv ves esti ting ng of imma im matu ture re fish h. Ca Catc tchi hing ng imm mm mat atur uree fish fis h deepl plet etes es the bre reed edin ing g po popu pula lati tion on n in the wat ater ers, s, whi h ch c affe ffect ctss th thee ab abililit ityy of the spe peci c es to re rege gene nera rate te,, wh whic ich h in turn tu rn cou ould ld lea ead d to the heir ir dep ple leti t on or ti BBC Go GoodF odFood oo 39

even ext even x in inct cttio i n. For o exa xamp mple mp le, po le pomf mfre reets t weeig weig ighi hing n lesss th ng than an 100 0 gra rams m are ms cons co nsid id der e ed d imm m attur uree an nd henc ncee no nott mean me antt to t be fis fi he h d. But giv iven e thaat th en they ey y aree av ar avai aila labl b e at bl a low ower er pri rice c s,, theey ar ce ae wide d ly sol de o d an nd co c nssu um med d. Hi Hils lsaa iiss als lo facing fa ng g a sim imilar ar cri risi isiss off num u be bers r due rs to ove veerfi fish shin i g, so we inc in ncre reeas asin ngl g y reelyy on imp m or o ts fro rom m Baang ngla lade la desh de sh.. sh

BUSTING FISH MYTHS Seafood iss not without its own share of myths. While most of them are redundant today, we still follow them blindly, simply out of pure habit. Here are a few: 7 Myth 1

THE ADVANTAGES OF AQUACULTURE A su s st stai aina ai naabl n b e wa w y to o inc ncre reeas asee se s af afoo ood oo d c ns co n um u pt ptio ion io n wh whilili e st stililll keeep e in ing g eccos ecos osys ysste tems m hea ms ealt lthy lt hyy is th h hro roug u h ug aaq qua u cu cult ltur lt urre. e It he h lp lpss au augm gm g men entt th he natu na tu ura rall sttoc ockk off fish sh,, th ther erreb eby y reeduci du uci c ng thee st th stra rain ra in on al alre read re ad dy ov over eb er bu urd rden ened en ed n tu na tura r l fis fi he h riieess. Na Natu t ra rall fis fi he heri ries ies e hav avee liimi mita taatiions tati ons su on uch h as seeas a on nal alit ity it y an and d th thee quan qu anti tity ti ty of fis fish h tth hat can be ca caug ught ug ht. Ass ht an n alt lter erna er nati na t ve ti ve,, aq aqua uacu ua cult cu ltur lt uree ca ur can n he help lp p su upp p ly lar arge gee qua uant ntit nt ittie i s of sea eafo f od all fo year ye ar rou ound n . nd Reece R cent nt stu tudi dies di es con ondu duct du cted ct ed by th thee Nati Na tion ti on nal Oce cean a ic an ic and n Atm tmos osph pher ph erric Admi Ad mini mi nist stra st rati ra tion ti on hav avee sh how own n th hat a aqua aq u cu ua ult l ur u e po pose sess a lo se ow ri risk sk to o th t e envi viro iro onm nmen entt as thee imp m ac actt is i typ ypic ical ally al ly loca lo call an ca nd te temp mp mpo por orar orar ary. y. In faact c , in n cer erta taain i c sees, ca s the qua ualiliity of wa wate teer in n pon o ds d and an d laakees ha hass be been en sho hown wn to ac a tu tual ally al ly im mpr prov ovee th ov han anks kss to aq qua uacu cu ult ltur urre.. Aqua Aq uacu ua c lt cu ltur uree al ur also s pla so lays ys an im mpo port rtan an nt role ro le in fu fuel ellililing el ng thee loc ocal al eco c no n my byy pro rovi vidi vi ding ng g tho hous u an us ands ds of jo ob bss in n op per erat a io at on nss and anc ncilililla lary la ry serrvi vice ces. Acco Ac cord co rdin rd in ng to the Env n irron o me ment nttall ntal Defe De fens fe nsse Fu Fund nd n d, d, a no onn-pr profi pr ofi fit e vi en v ro ronm nmen nm enta en tall or ta orga gani ga nisa sati ation on,, gl on glob obal a al fisshe fi heri ries ri es exp xpor orts rt now ow earrn mo m re reve re veenu nuee than than n any oth ther er tra rade ded d fo food o od c mm co mmod odit od ityy in it n the wor o ld d, in incl clud cl udin ud ing in g ri r ce, ce coco co co oa orr coff offee e . ee In n con ncl clusio io on, n tha hatt p pllat atee of o pom mfr fret et in n front ro ont n of yo you u is no ott jus ustt a ta tast sty y supp su pp per er,, bu butt an anc ncie ient ie nt rec e ip pe fo forr b brrai ain n deve de velo ve lo opm pmen ent; en t; a sol olut utio ion n to sev ver eral all of toda to day’ da y s he y’ h al alth th con o ce c rn rns; s; a sou urc rcee of empl em ploy pl oyme oy ment me n forr tho nt h us u aan nds ds,, an nd iff mana ma nage na g d re ge resp sp pon onsi sibl si bly, bl bly, y a strron ng so sour urcee urce of foo ood d se secu c ri cu rity ty for the geen ner e at atio io ons to co ome m . Th Thee caasee for eat atin ing in g fis fish h ma make kess ke itse it seelf l emp mpha haatiica calllllly. y.

40 0 BBC C Go G odF odFood ood

Seaf Se afoo af ood oo d ca aus uses es cho ole estter erol ol lev vel e s to ris ise. e e. Fact Siinc nce e se s af afoo oo ood od co cont n ai nt ains nss cho n h le lest ster st e ol er o , th t er ere e is a pe errce epttio on th hat it elev elevat attes cho hole le estter erol ol leve le vels ve ls.. Ho ls Howe weve we ver,r,r seafo ve ea afo food od has a ne eg gligi liigibl giibl ble e ef effe fe ect c in in ncr c ea easi sing ng LDL or ‘b ‘bad ad d’ ch chol o es este tero te rol,l,l sin ince ce it hass ve ha v ry low o lev vel e s off tra ans n and d sat atur urat ur atted fat ated ats. s s.

7Myth 2 Alll fis Al fish h sm mel e l ba bad. d d. Fact Fish issh by b its t el elff do does es not hav ave e a st stro rong ro ng odour do our.. Iff it is fre resh sh or st stor ored or ed cor orre rect re ctly ct ly,, it wililll on ly only ly y have ha ve a sliligh ghtt sm gh smel elll of oce el c an water atter,, bu ut th that a is frres at e h an and d no nott fo f ul ul. Fo Foul u -ssme ul mellllin ing in g fis fish h in ndi dica cate tess te poor po or qua alility ty and sho houl uld ul d be e avoid void vo ded ed..

7Myth 3 Fish Fi sh con onssu sump sump m ti tion o sho on houl u d be ul b res estr tric tr iccte ted d as it co c nt n ai ains ns mer e cu cury r. ry Fact No Nott al alll va vari riet ri etie et ie es of o fish are r hig gh in merrcu c ry ry,, so don o ’tt abssta t in n fro rom m ea eati t ng the ti hem m comp co m le mp lete tely te ly.. Iff you ly u are r war ary y of mer ercu cury cu ry le ev vel e s, s the hen n av avoi oid oi d va ari riet etie et iess such su uch as shar shar sh ark, k swo k, word r fis rd fish, h, king ki ng mac acke ke erre el an a d tiile lefis fish. fis h The h. e Uni nite ted te d Sttat ates e Dep es epar artm tm men entt of Ame eri r ca a’s die ieta tary ta ry gui uide delililine de ness ne reco re comm co mmen mm end en d ea eati tiing sea eafo food fo od as th he be b ne efit fi s fa f r ou o tw wei e gh the ris isks ks.. ks

7Myth 4 Fish Fi sh and yog oghu hurt hu r toget og get e her he er ca caus use ssk us use kin dis isea ease ea se.. se This iss is an an old wiv ives es’’ ta es tale le and hass no sc scie i nt ie ntifi ificc or med ifi edic ical ic al pro oof of.. Le Leuc ucod uc od der e ma is Fact Th ca aus used e by th ed the e de dest stru st rru uct c io ion n of o mel elan an nin n-p pro odu uci cin ng cel ng ells ls,, an nd ha hass no noth t in th ng to o do wi w th sea eafo f od fo orr yog o hu hurt rtt. Iff any n th t in ng, leu euco code co derm rm ma iiss as pr prev eval ev a en al entt am amon ongs gstt sttri gs rict ct veg eget etar aria ar ians ia ns as am ns amon on ngsst th hos ose e wh ho co cons n um ns me sse eaf a oo ood. d d.

7Myth 5 Fish Fi s can sh anno no ot be eat aten en in th the e mo m ns nsoo oon. on. Fact Hi Hist s or st o iccal ally l , th ly he on nse s t of the e mon o so s on has mea e ntt two thi h ng gs — itt is th he br b ee eedi d ng di g s ason se ason for fish and fish as s errme en do do not o ven nttu ure r intto th he se ea,, whi h ch mea an nss limit im mit ited ed e d or no n a ai av aila labi la bililiity of se eaf afoo o d oo d.. How owev ever ev er,, th er hin ngs g are r dif iffe ere r nt tod oday ay. Wh When en it iss ra aiini ning n on th ng he we west st coas co ast, as t, fish can a be brro ou ugh ghtt in n frro om th t e ea ast coa ast st,, wh wher e e th er the e mo mons nssoo nsoo oon n ha hass pass passed pa ssed ss d and the e brree eedi ding di ng sea e so on is ove er.r. The he rev ever erse se ho ollds d tru ue as wel ell.l. So yo ou ca can n en enjo j y fre jo frresh fis fish h ev even en duri du r ng the ri e mon o soon soon,, wi so with th hou outt ha having havi ng g to wo worr rry y ab bou outt qual qualit ity y or sus usta t in ta nab bililitty. y.

7Myth 6 F sh Fi h is di diffi fficu ffi c lt cu lt to co c ok k Fact Fi F sh h is ac actu t a tu allly the e mosst si s mp plle e, di dive vers rse, e, flex exib ib ble e and pal a attee grrattifyi ifying yiing ing gre r di d ent. ent. en t Oncce the th e fis fish h is cle ean aned ed and d deb ebon on ned e , th the e me m at is ve ery ry eas asy y to ste team am,, gr am g illl, tawa aw wa-fry y or o bat a ter te er fr fry. y. With Wi th eac ach h fissh ha h viing g itss own uni n qu que e te text xttur u e an nd fla fl vo v ur and hun undr d ed dr edss off rec ecip ec pes e to ch hoo oose se frrom o , co cook ok kin ng it it can n be a ve v ry sat a issfy fyin i g ex in expe pe eri rien ence ce,, ev ce even en n for o nov oviccess.

A IIL AP APR L 20 013 13

spotlight indian fish

Seer fish (surmai) Marine fish from the mackerel family. Firm and flaky meat, great in curries

Indian salmon (rawas) Saltwater fish with a mild flavour that lends itself particularly well to European dishes

Pomfret Marine fish popular for its thin skin, soft, buttery flavour and single central bone. Good for grilling

Indian mackerel (bangda) Bony saltwater fish with a strong, oily flavour. Rich source of Omega-3 fats. Best eaten fried

Grown here, not flown here

Meet four game-changing entrepreneurs who are saving precious food miles by producing exotic ingredients locally

top producers made in india


SAMAR GUPTA, CEO, TRIKAYA AGRICULTURE THE GREEN GROCER Even five years ago, brightly coloured red and yellow bell peppers and broccoli were the divas of the Indian vegetable market. They looked daringly different – and getting them to put in an appearance at your humble meal meant forking out a premium. Today, they have been upstaged by exotic veggies with far more mystique – Swiss chard with deep crimson stalks, fuzzy green edamame pods and almost neon, punk rocker-ish Romanesco cauliflower. The credit, in no small part, goes to Trikaya Agriculture, a company that has made it its business to broaden the palates of Indian consumers by introducing them to locally grown exotic vegetables. It has been a decidedly uphill journey for Samar Gupta, CEO of the company, who took over at the helm of things in 1997. Samar’s father Ravi Gupta, adman and founder of Trikaya Grey Advertising, had a zeal for agriculture, experimenting with growing broccoli back in the late 1980s – a time when the vegetable was so alien as to be considered cauliflower past its go-by date. Despite such temporary setbacks, Ravi Gupta continued to dabble with agriculture on weekends, eventually buying the farm that now functions as the company’s R&D headquarters, in Talegaon near Pune. After his father’s sudden death in 1997, Samar, the only one of three siblings who shared his father’s passion for farming, was left holding the reins. Guided by Manje Gowda, his father’s able lieutenant who is currently general manager of the company, he decided to try his hand at growing crops such as Chinese cabbage, baby corn, cherry tomatoes, baby potatoes and leaf lettuce. The gamble paid off and the company held the monopoly on producing iceberg lettuce and baby

corn for nearly five years. However, after local farmers found a way to grow the popular lettuce in larger volumes and for a lower price, Gupta and Gowda decided that it was time to try something new to stay ahead of the curve. In diversifying to include newer and newer crops, they hit upon what has served as the company’s USP especially in the last decade – innovation. The company’s repertoire has expanded to include delicacies such as creamy palm hearts, crunchy kang kong or water spinach, and a whole range of herbs such as sage, tarragon, oregano, marjoram and rosemary. For the most part, the calculated risks that Gupta and Gowda have taken have reaped benefits – most notably by carving a niche for the Trikaya brand. The company has now expanded its operations to a total of eight farms, which includes five in Maharashtra and three in Ooty. The different locations in which the farms are situated offer a variety of growing conditions – ideal for the basket of nearly 130 products that Trikaya now specialises in. For instance, the cool climate of Ooty is ideal for fruits such as apples, blueberries and raspberries and veggies such as Jerusalem artichokes and Brussels sprouts, while jackfruits, Thai seedless guavas and Italian seedless lemons thrive in the temperate climes of the farms in the Konkan region of Maharashtra. While several of Gupta’s experiments have hit bull’s eye, some have flopped unexpectedly. Despite its beautiful ruby hue, there have been few takers for deep red lettuce. Smitten with the delicious flavour of edible sweet potato leaves, Gupta and Gowda were convinced it would do well in the Indian market. But it was a resounding failure and the company now plans to stop cultivating the plants. However, there have also been some sleeper hits. “I thought that Indians have a sweet tooth so they would never take to bitter

Where to buy Trikaya products Trikaya products are available at the company’s retail outlets in Crawford Market and the Dadar vegetable market in Mumbai, as well as gourmet grocers in the city.

greens such as rocket, endive, chicory and radicchio,” says Gupta. But the response has been so overwhelming that Gupta introduced a pre-packaged salad featuring these bitter leaves a few months ago. It’s this unpredictability of the Indian palate that acts as fuel to Gupta’s fire. “I keep going back to my dad’s logic: stick it in the ground and see how the market responds.” Happily for us, Gupta’s gambles have been our gain. — Vidya Balachander

NEED TO KNOW QTrikaya also has a ready-to-eat salad mix with iceberg, lollo rosso, green romaine, red oak leaf and other lettuce leaves, cherry tomatoes and a prepackaged, homespun salad dressing. QThey also recently introduced a second salad with bitter radicchio, rocket, endive and chicory leaves.

VIKAS BENAL, FOUNDER, VIKAS MUSHROOM FARMS THE SPAWN STAR Back in 1990, when Vikas Benal, the founder of Vikas Mushroom Farms in Solan, Himachal Pradesh took his first batch of button mushrooms to a market in Shimla, the oddly shaped fungi were a source of great bewilderment to shoppers. Some called it factory-made; others thought it was a non-vegetarian product. In

44 BBC GoodFood

no uncertain terms, the reaction was shockingly poor. Today, not only is Benal one of the leading mushroom growers in the country, but he can also be considered the driving force behind promoting Solan as the mushroom capital of the country What has changed in the last two decades that has turned these cast-off fungi into the prima donnas of the vegetable world? From only making tentative appearances on restaurant menus to becoming an established import into Indian home cooking as well, the humble button mushroom has arrived. The mushroom revolution has also heralded the bloom of exquisite oyster, umami-rich shiitake, fleshy Portobello and delicate enoki mushrooms. The credit goes to the government, which has been training and providing incentives to mushroom farmers, as well as growers such as Benal, who have actively encouraged others to adopt mushroom growing as a lucrative alternative to traditional farming. In a spare room in his Solan home, with an investment of ` 5,000, Benal cultivated his first batch of mushrooms as an experiment. Luckily for him, he wagered on the one vegetable that would see a 100 per cent increase in demand over the years, and made a handsome profit on his initial investment. “I saw great potential. The investment and growing risks were minimal and it was the best way to use up agricultural waste and residue, which I got practically free from farmers who could not wait to discard it back then,” he says. Gradually, Benal moved operations out of his home and purchased a temperature-controlled unit to make his own compost with agricultural waste. Once again, this was a profitable move, as it enabled him to start selling compost as well as spawn or the reproductive cells from which mushrooms grow, to other growers. With limited technological advancements at the time, it wasn’t until 1996 that Benal air-conditioned the entire farm and started growing mushrooms perennially. Mushrooms

require a particular temperature and humidity to bloom and are highly perishable due to their high moisture content. While a bulk of the produce is sold fresh, the unsold ones that are nearing their best-by date are dried, canned or pickled to avoid microbial spoilage. Although he ensures that insectidies and pesticides are not used on the farm, he hasn’t applied for organic certification because the agricultural waste might contain traces of urea. There were some hurdles that Benal faced that he just couldn’t find any quick fixes for. “Creating awareness about mushrooms and marketing them in a way that made them accessible to Indian homes was the biggest challenge,” he says. Ironically, they now see the highest sales during Navratras. “Our consumption may have grown by 100 per cent but India’s per capita consumption of 30g vis-a-vis the international average of 3kg has great potential to improve,” he reiterates. With a steely determination to up this statistic, Benal works closely with the Solan-based Directorate of Mushroom Research, a government led research organisation, to promote the cause of mushroom farming in the country. In 2005, he also bagged the Progressive Mushroom Grower award granted by the organisation. “What worked in my favour was that I started small, so I could limit the amount of economic damage by making mistakes and learning from them,” says Benal. From learning about how to grow mushrooms by reading books to conducting experiments in his spawn labs, Benal has certainly come a long way. Along the way, he has also had to develop and perfect his own hygiene and safety regulations, which are absolutely criticial for mushroom cultivation. With his focus now on growing shiitake, paddy straw and silky mushrooms, he says it won’t be long before he once again bemuses shoppers with his produce. With long and slender piopinni or outlandish looking cauliflower mushrooms, perhaps? — Kainaz Contractor APRIL 2013

top producers rss made in india a Where to buy Vikas Mushroom Farm products: Vikas Mushroom Farm’s mushrooms are available at gourmet grocers in Shimla, Chandigarh, New Delhi, Ludhiana and Mumbai . Visit vikasmushrooms. com for details.

Photographs ANOOP NEGI

NEED TO KNOW QApart from oyster and button mushrooms, Benal is now also experimenting with exotic varieties such as shiitake, paddy straw and silky mushrooms. QAs an aside to his business, Benal also supplies spawn and compost to smaller farmers to encourage them to grow mushrooms.

SUNIL BHU, FOUNDER, FLANDERS DAIRY THE CHEESE MAKER In a country that grew up on stringy, milky-white Amul cheese sandwiched between bread and grated over pav bhaji, gourmet cheese is a concept that has only recently gained currency. After all, who would have thought that salty feta and stinky blue cheese would one day invade Indian kitchens? What heralded the march of smoked gouda and soft gruyere into our store cupboards? The answer is undoubtedly complex, but we also have some pioneering local entrepreneurs to thank for our introduction to the umamipacked goodness of the cheese world. One of these companies is Flanders Dairy in New Delhi. Cheese making was a product of happenstance for Sunil Bhu, the founder of the company. In 1984, Bhu spent a couple of years in Diksmuide, a small town in the Flanders region of Belgium, gaining some hands-on experience in assisting on a farm. The owner of the farm had just begun to make gouda out of the cow milk produced on the farm, and Bhu joined him on his travels to France and Holland to fine-tune his craft. After returning to India in 1985, he decided to pursue this newly gained passion on a small, three-acre farm owned by his mother in Bijwasan, near Delhi. Despite their cynicism about the viability of his venture, Bhu’s parents didn’t dissuade him or press him to make the shift to a full-time job. Still, the going was tough. “It took me nearly seven years to get started in India. Everything seemed so much easier in Belgium. If I had known, I would have gained some knowledge in India first,” he says. Eventually, after several attempts, Bhu had refined his version of gouda enough to feel confident about 46 BBC GoodFood

approaching the owner of Steak House, a gourmet grocery store in Delhi. “I took him one bowl of cheese and asked him to try it.” The response was encouraging. “At that time, marketing was easier because there was hardly anyone making artisanal cheeses,” he says. Starting with a single cow and a modest operation that allowed him to process 10 litres of milk a day, Bhu gradually expanded his oeuvre. On a trip to Italy, a factory owner taught him how to make mozzarella, and also helped him buy the machinery required to produce it. Consequent trips to Europe revealed more cheese secrets. As with any nascent business in India, bureaucracy was the biggest roadblock for Bhu. “When I began, imports were very restricted so even getting basic ingredients and machinery required a lot of hard work,” he says. Even though import rules have now been relaxed and good quality milk – the most significant input for the cheese business – is now

more readily available, the lack of basic infrastructure such as good roads and efficient storage systems still poses a major hurdle. “Setting up an efficient chain of production from farmer to factory is not easy. It is much more difficult for a small farmer to produce and preserve milk in India than it is in the West. Once you have access to good quality milk in India, it is half the battle won,” he says. Now, the Flanders range of cheeses has a total of 12 products that includes not just gouda and mozzarella, but also bocconcini or fresh buffalo milk mozzarella, mascarpone, sour cream, ricotta, goat’s cheese and quark, a kind of hung curd cheese made out of cow’s milk, among several others. However, Bhu is cautious about diversifying too much, since each kind of cheese has a completely different set of requirements and takes years to perfect. Recently, after realising that the Bijwasan farm where he started out couldn’t be expanded any further to keep up with the burgeoning demand, Bhu shifted the company’s operations to a larger factory in Haryana. While the plant can process up to 25,000 litres of milk a day, the company’s current capacity is 8-9,000 litres. To keep his focus firmly on the cheese production process, Bhu also no longer manages his own cattle, having established a network of small farmers who supply him with high-quality milk that meets his discerning standards. Despite establishing himself in the thriving artisanal cheese industry in India, counting a number of standalone restaurants and five-star hotels among his loyal clientele, Bhu feels the need to constantly keep abreast of change. “Even today, I make a trip to Flanders or some other place in Europe just to update my knowledge,” he says. Thanks to his passion for cheese, the day might not be far when you only need to stroll to your local grocery store to buy Indian-made gorgonzola or taleggio – and we at BBC Good Food simply cannot wait. — Vidya Balachander APRIL 2013

top producers made in india Where to buy Flanders cheese: Flanders cheese is available at the company’s retail outlet in Delhi as well as other gourmet grocers in major metropolitan cities. Visit for details.


NEED TO KNOW Q The Flanders range has expanded to 12 products including hard-to-find cheeses such as cherry mozzarella, a kind of fresh mozzarella, scamorza, sour cream and qwark (a soft cow’s cheese).

top producers made in india


ANGELO FERNANDES, OWNER, BAMBURIES THE MEAT MASTER It’s all baloney, really. Delicious things can indeed come out of failed ventures. In this case, sausages so plump that they can barely contain themselves in their casings, slivers of salami studded with garlic and pepper that are a riot of taste and texture and legs of drycured smoked ham that are capable of holding centre stage at Christmas dinners. When the cows, pigs, chicken and turkey on his Mysore farm did not sell, Angelo Fernandes spotted an opportunity to turn them into steaks, sausages, meat loaves and smoked turkey instead. His gamble paid off and since then, Bamburies has been synonymous with cured, processed and quality fresh meats in Bengaluru. It was the utopian dream of living in the suburbs on a farm replete with live stock and fresh produce that prompted Angelo and his father JB Fernandes to shift base from East Africa to Bengaluru more than 35 years ago. Angelo and his father had a modest plan: to live on a farm and raise quality livestock for sale. However, this plan seemed riddled with problems, the primary one being an organised stream of demand. “At the time, there were no buyers for what we were selling. So, in order to ensure a better market for our produce, we got into the food processing industry,” says Angelo. In 1973, the Bamburies store in Richmond Town was started with a focus on retailing cuts of meat from the animals raised on the farm. Soon enough, they started experimenting with making sausages. Once people got a taste of Angelo’s efforts, it didn’t take long for Bamburies to become the Bengaluru institution that it is today. What started out as an outlet for selling fresh meat, soon turned into a one-stop-shop for homemade sausages, hams, salamis APRIL 2013

and smoked meats. In the initial years, Bamburies’ clients were mainly home cooks but with increasing consciousness about reducing food miles, Angelo found a new market in restaurant chefs. Today, Angelo even has customers who take back strings of his signature roasted beef sausages to other cities such as Delhi and Mumbai. Looking at Bamburies’ freezers filled with meat, it’s hard to believe that Angelo has no formal training in the field. “We learned the business by trial and error. Our friends gave us old British books from the 1950s from which we learnt everything and then began experimenting,” he says. At a time when processed meat was virtually

Where to buy Bamburies products Shoolay Circle, General Thimmaiah Road, Richmond Town, Bangalore, Karnataka. Tel: +91 80 25301949.

unheard off, Angelo and his father were pioneers, custom-making machines and hand presses for the processed meats. The duo introduced people to the joys of dry and wet-cured, smoked meats long before imported parma ham and bratwursts occupied our freezers. Though Bamburies does stock a fair amount of imported meat such as parma ham, pepperoni and wurstel wiener or Viennese sausages, Angelo’s attempts at replicating these meats on home soil are particularly laudable. His barbecued ham and salami Milano have been his most successful creations. By 1997, business at Bamburies was picking up and it no longer seemed feasible for the Fernandes family to sustain the farm. Fresh meats are now sourced from vendors across the country and Angelo says that the family checks meat consignments on a daily basis. While he doesn’t make claims of sourcing from organically certified suppliers, the processed meats made in-house don’t contain preservatives and additives that would increase their shelf life. The success of Bamburies could have well translated into a number of outlets and export opportunities to other cities. However, despite burgeoning sales, the family’s resolve to keep the enterprise small and locally centred is strong. For now, Angelo is content with his single curing room and batches of homemade brine. In a way, the story of his success is the story of Bamburies – taking a step into the future by preserving a bit of the past. — Kainaz Contractor

NEED TO KNOW Q The Bamburies range of products includes a wide variety of sausages such as smoked pork sausages and beef sausages; cold cuts such as chorizo and parma ham; processed meats such as smoked chicken and roast beef and raw seafood. Q Fernandes smokes his own meat in the small, woodfired smoking room at the family farm in the outskirts of Bengaluru.

BBC GoodFood 49


ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS Are sugar substitutes a guilt-free indulgence or should you stay away from saccharine sweetness? BBC Good Food weighs in on the debate



50 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013

need to know food issues


t is somewhat ironic that one of the most popular artificial sweeteners available in the market also lends itself to a less-than-flattering epithet. When you accuse someone of being ‘saccharine’, it usually carries the implication of being cloyingly sweet, almost to the point of being unpalatable. For decades, millions of diabetics and weight watchers have turned to saccharin to appease their sweet tooth.Yet, this popular tabletop sweetener is several hundred times sweeter than sugar, a sensation that borders on bitterness. The important question to ask is – should you turn to artificial sweeteners like saccharin for guilt-free indulgence or be cautious of their potent power? It has been universally acknowledged that sweetness is one of the first sensations that human beings get accustomed to. As babies, our initiation to the world of solid food begins with mashed fruit; savoury flavours enter our taste lexicon only much later. The human body has an extraordinary natural affinity for sugar thanks to its ability to produce an instant burst of energy, informally but not incorrectly referred to as a “sugar high”. But increasingly, as scientific research piles up about the serious lifestyle-related ills such as diabetes, heart disease and hypertension that are connected to a high sugar and high fat diet, sugar, especially of the refined, granulated kind, is being seen as nothing less than toxic for the human body. This fact only heightens the appeal of products that replicate the sweet flavour that we cherish so much but minus the empty calories that accompany it.

UNDERSTANDING SWEETENERS Apart from granulated table sugar, there are several other sweeteners that could be used to recreate a similar taste. Of these, some are of natural origin, including honey, maple syrup, molasses and agave syrup, among APRIL 2013

others. Those sugar substitutes that are artificially synthesised compounds of chemical origin are known as artificial sweeteners. The majority of the sugar substitutes that are permitted for use as food are produced artificially. Some non-sugar sweeteners are known as ‘polyols’ or sugar alcohols. This is a somewhat misleading description because these are neither sugars nor alcohols. Instead, they are carbohydrates that are naturally

words, while you may require a teaspoon of sugar to sweeten a cup of cappuccino, only one tablet of an artificial sweetener would do the trick. This has a significant impact on your calorie burden – on an average, a teaspoon of sugar contains 15 calories. But you would require so little of a high-intensity sweetener that the resultant calories are almost negligible. There are six intensely sweet artificial sweeteners that are

“The calories removed from the diet by the sugar-for-sweetener swap may sneak back in, in the form of refined carbohydrates and low-quality fats ” found in berries, fruits or vegetables but can also be manufactured to make commercial sugar substitutes. Polyols make for handy substitutes to sugar because they metabolise slowly and don’t flood the body with blood sugar, as granulated sugar tends to do. They have also been shown to be beneficial for dental health. Some popular polyols include sorbitol, which is commonly found in apples, peaches, prunes and pears. It is artificially manufactured and used to flavour diet foods such as toothpaste and diet ice cream. Xylitol is also a sugar alcohol, which is roughly as sweet as sugar but with 33 per cent fewer calories. It is found in fruits and vegetables such as berries, mushrooms, oats and even cornhusks and its commercial uses include sugar-free chewing gum and mints.

BEST KNOWN SUGAR SUBSTITUTES Most popular artificial sweeteners available in the market are known as ‘high-intensity’ sweeteners because they are typically several hundred times sweeter than sugar. Since their flavour is so concentrated, even a miniscule quantity of an artificial sweetener is sufficient to recreate the flavour profile of sugar. In other

commercially available and approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration. Out of these, the most popular ones available in India include saccharin (better known by the brand name Sweet’N Low), aspartame (commercially available as Equal) and sucralose (or Splenda). What all of these artificially created sugar substitutes have in common is that they put sugar to shame in the sweetness stakes (see box).

THE HEALTH ANGLE Ever since artificial sweeteners were first introduced into the market, they have been dogged by controversy. Over the years, several researchers have tried to draw connections between popular sweeteners such as saccharin and aspartame and the likelihood of developing various kinds of cancer. But after extensive testing by various countries, the popularly used artificial substitutes have received a clean chit. On the other hand, given that sugar is increasingly becoming our nutritional arch enemy, virtually calorie-free substitutes seem like a reasonable and convenient alternative. The question is worth asking – should you opt for artificial sweeteners in your daily diet and if so, what quantity is safe? BBC GoodFood 51

need to know food issues




Brand name

Sweet’N Low

Equal, Sugar Free



Widely used since World War 2

Accidentally discovered in 1965 by James Schlatter, a chemist in Nebraska

Was discovered in 1976 by scientists working with Tate & Lyle at Queen Elizabeth College. First approved for use in Canada in 1991

Sweetness level

About 300 times sweeter than sugar

200 times sweeter than sugar

Almost 600 times as sweet as sugar, twice as sweet as saccharine, and three times as sweet as aspartame

Food uses

Usually avoided for cooking or baking because of its bitter aftertaste

Breaks down in the presence of acidic substances and at high temperatures, so best avoided when cooking or baking

Retains its properties even when heated and hence can be used in baking. Also used in products having a longer shelf life, e.g. carbonated drinks and sugar-free syrups

Medical advice

After extensive testing, no concrete evidence has been found that links it to cancer in humans, so it continues to be popular.

Should be avoided by those with Phenylketonuria or PKN, a genetic condition where the body can’t break down phenylaline, a component of aspartame.

Considered safe for consumption by the FDA and WHO.

“Apart from their taste, artificial sweeteners don’t have any nutritional benefits,” says Dr Rekha Sharma, president of the Indian Dietetics Association. “They are useful if you can simply not do without sugar but if you are looking to lose weight, I recommend changing your cravings by reducing your sugar intake instead.” Artificial sweeteners are absorbed and metabolised by the liver and excreted through the kidney, so those with liver or kidney conditions should consume them in moderation. In the United States, the FDA has set an Acceptable Daily Intake (ADI) level for each sweetener, which is considered to be the maximum amount that is safe to consume on an everyday basis during a person’s lifetime. In general, the ADI is set to be about 100 times less than the smallest amount that might cause health concerns. ADI is calculated on the basis of milligrams per kilogram of body weight – for instance, the ADI for aspartame is 50 mg per kg of body weight per day. So a 52 BBC GoodFood

person who weighs 75 kg can consume a maximum of up to 3,750 mg per day. To put the numbers in perspective, a can of diet soda usually contains about 180 mg of aspartame, so you would have to drink more than 20 cans a day to go over the recommended level. However, although safety parameters are quite stringent, the onus is still on consumers to be mindful of how much and how often they use artificial sweeteners. “Since they are much sweeter than sugar, sweeteners are self-limiting. However, it is important that people read labels carefully,” says Dr Sudarshan Rao, assistant director at the National Institute of Nutrition, Hyderabad.

TOO MUCH SWEETNESS? By favouring sugar substitutes over the real thing, especially for purposes of shortterm weight loss, are we in fact setting ourselves up for long-term damage? In December 2011, Dr David S Ludwig, professor of pediatrics at Harvard Medical School, wrote in the Harvard

Health Letter, that given their extreme sweetness, artificial sweeteners might actually create a dependence on sweeter and sweeter foods. “Artificial sweeteners are extremely sweet…so people who habitually consume them may wind up desensitised to sweetness. Healthful, satiating foods that are less sweet – such as fruits and vegetables – may become unappetising by comparison.The calories removed from the diet by the sugar-forsweetener swap may sneak back in, in the form of refined carbohydrates and low-quality fats.” In addition, scientists from Purdue University studying the correlation between the dietary habits and weight gain in animals that had been fed artificially sweetened foods found that they tended to consume more calories and gain body weight. This is because animals tend to associate sweet foods with being calorie-rich; sugar-free foods disrupt this natural association, causing them to eat more and pile on the calories. So before you turn to sugar substitutes for weight loss, it’s worth wondering whether they are a viable solution. APRIL 2013

need to know wellbeing

healthy ingredient

avocado Creamy-fleshed avocados add healthy fat to your diet, says nutrition expert Natalie Savona


ripe avocado is a very balanced fruit, comprising a range of oils, vitamins, PLQHUDOVDQGÀEUHLWLV neither acid nor alkaline and is easily digestible (unless you have liver problems). This fruit is a good source of the antioxidant vitamin E, which is good for the skin. It is also one of the richest sources of potassium, essential for healthy blood pressure and a good ÁXLGEDODQFHLQWKHERG\$YRFDGR also contains folic acid, which is particularly useful for women who are pregnant, as it is needed for the development of the foetus. It is also the number one fruit source of beta sitosterol, a substance that has been linked to cancer protection, prostate health and good cholesterol.


OHVVRLOLQWKHGUHVVLQJWKHVDPHJRHV for sandwiches. Make easy dips for crudités and crackers, or toppings for jacket potatoes by mashing avocado with cottage cheese, yoghurt or hummus. A homemade guacamole — avocado with onion, jalapeño pepper, tomato, coriander and lime juice, can EHSLOHGRQWRJULOOHGÀVKRUFKLFNHQ Half an avocado makes a rich and satisfying snack: remove the stone, VFRUHWKHÁHVK VWLOOLQLWVVNLQ DQG dress with Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce, or lemon juice. Avocado also PDNHVDJRRGDGGLWLRQWRWKHÀUVW foods for babies, mashed with stewed apple, cooked pumpkin or sweet potato. When a fraction under-ripe, it goes very well with fruit — try a mango, strawberry and avocado salad tossed with the juice of half a grapefruit and fresh mint.

Green club sandwich Makes 2 Q10 minutes Q EASY QToast 6 slices of wholegrain bread and spread 6 tbsp hummus evenly over one side of each slice. On one slice of bread, lay half a sliced avocado, a handful of rocket leaves and 6 sliced cherry tomatoes. Season with pepper, then cover with another slice. Pile on the remaining half of the avocado, another handful of rocket and 6 sliced cherry tomatoes, season again and top with the third slice of bread. QPER SERVING 583 kcals, protein 18g, carbs 53g, fat 35g, sat fat 5g, fibre 12g, sugar 4g, salt 1.27g


Although it is one of the most energy-dense natural foods pound for pound, packed in with the calories is a mound of goodness. Seventy per cent of the fat in avocado is mono-unsaturated oleic acid which scientists have linked to lower rates of heart disease, stroke and cancer. So, even if you are trying to lose weight, you still need some of the healthy fats from nutrient-dense foods such as avocado. Its high fat content means it is very low on the glycaemic index, so you feel more VDWLVÀHGDIWHUHDWLQJRQH

A VERSATILE FOOD There are so many ways to include avocado in your diet. In salads, it adds a rich creaminess, so you need APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 53

need to know books

books & cooks The lowdown on this month’s top foodie reads Words KHORSHED DEBOO

The Ultimate Army Cookbook by Kikky Sihota Born into an army family and married into one as well, Kikky Sihota’s latest book is part memoir, part cookery book. She reminisces about bygone days through sepiatinted photographs, with insights into occasions where food was shared and recipes exchanged. Although a tad anglicised, the dishes are simple to make, such as the Chicken Cordon Bleu with Wine Sauce, good enough to be devoured in minutes. Our only grouse – the book is bereft of food photographs. Also, we wish the author had narrated the stories behind the nomenclature of recipes like Grenades and Bombay Sapper’s Eggs. Available from Roli Books for ` 795

Khanna Sutra by Vikas Khanna The mawkish title of the book made us cringe but we chose to overlook it along with the odd foreword by Deepak Chopra. Vikas Khanna’s latest tome has 60-plus ingenious recipes using aphrodisiacs as primary ingredients, with introductory notes on each. We tried the Red Potatoes with Almonds and the Strawberry Cobbler with Almond Crust – both foolproof. PanSeared Orange-Saffron Salmon may seem like something that only an experienced chef could make. But with Khanna’s recipe, it makes for a chic Saturday night meal at home. All you need is wine and some good music. Available from Om Books International for ` 895

Unjunked by Suman Agarwal Nutritionist Suman Agarwal aspires to make you eat right without compromising on taste. (Baked vada pav fortified with paneer, anyone?) These vegetarian recipes are accompanied by a key with four quadrants – carbs, protein, fibre and dairy. We made the Date Fudge – perfect to curb mid-morning hunger pangs. The Oats Upma was ready (and consumed) in a jiffy but the Garden Vegetables with Tofu was doused in ketchup. The ‘Calorie Swap’ segment tells you to run for 25 minutes to redeem a vodka tonic, though we are crushed that a brownie sundae is deemed unpardonable. Available from Selfcare for ` 799

Try this recipe!

Mock mayo sandwich Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY Recipe courtesy UNJUNKED Mix 4 cups fat-free curd, 1/2 cup grated carrots, 1 chopped capsicum, 4 tsp powdered sugar and salt in a bowl. Heat 1 tsp mustard seeds in 1 1/2 tbsp oil. Once the seeds begin to splutter, add 25g curry leaves. Remove from the heat and add 1/2 tsp

54 BBC GoodFood

red chilli powder. Add this to the curd mixture. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions and evenly spread between 8 slices of whole wheat bread. Sparingly apply some butter on the outer sides of the sandwich. Heat 1 tsp mustard seeds and 25g curry leaves on a tawa. Grill each sandwich on the tawa till golden brown on each side.

Recipe courtesy UNJUNKED – Healthy eating for weight loss Photograph PAWAN MANGLANI

Top Secret by Shubhra Krishan Food festivals and masterclasses have made coveted recipes of celebrity chefs more accessible to home cooks. With Top Secret, the author aims to do just that but doesn’t quite make the grade. In this Delhi-centric book, you’ll find Sakura’s okonomi yaki sharing space with Indian Accent’s fusion recipes and Zambar’s appams. Although clearly instructed, the lack of an index makes for some unwieldy navigation. Haphazardly placed quotes and poorly shot photographs fail to do justice to the recipes. Available from Westland for ` 295 Ahh! Chocolate by Sanjeev Kapoor Although a chunk of the recipes comprise conventional brownies, pastries, cookies and cupcakes, the section on chocolate making left us intrigued. With simple techniques to craft chocolate curls, moulded chocolate, rice crispy bars, pralines and even chocolate paan, it proves to be handy to cooks seeking elementary patissier badges. And did we mention it makes for marvellous visual gazing? Available from Popular Prakashan for ` 595 You can buy this month’s books online at and

APRIL 2013

need to know food shows

What’s on

Tune in to this month’s best food TV

FOOD STAR TÊTE-À-TÊTE with ANJUM ANAND The talented cook and TV show host on all things food As told to ALI ALDERMAN

ON THE PLATE GUILT FREE Mindful eating is clearly TV TASTING the buzzword for 2013. But SEEMA that doesn’t mean having to CHANDRA grudgingly pile on austere, flavourless food on your plate. In the second season of her popular show Guilt Free, Seema Chandra, anchor and Food Editor of NDTV Good Times, shows how to accrue caloric karma by swapping a few ingredients or making healthy choices that count. True to her cooking style, Chandra doesn’t crimp on the flavour department in this recipe for an Indian-style prawn stew. Try it for yourself.

Prawn stew Serves 6 Q50 minutes + marinating QEASY prawns 20, vinegarr 1 tbsp, freshly ground black pepperr to season, star anise 2, fennel seeds 1 tsp, cinnamon a 2 inch piece, cloves 12, black cardamom (badi elaichi) 3, whole peppercorns 1 tsp, olive oil 2 tbsp, onions 2, finely chopped, garlic c 1 tsp, finely chopped, turmeric 1/4 tsp, coriander powder 1 tsp, green chillies 3-4, slit, coconut milk 2 cups, coconut water 1 cup, salt to season, curry leaves 20 QIn a bowl, marinate the prawns with vinegar and freshly ground black pepper. QRoast the star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and whole peppercorns in a pan until fragrant. Grind in a blender to make the roasted masala for the stew. QIn a deep pan, heat a tablespoon of oil. Sauté the onions and garlic till the onions look glossy. Add the green chillies, along with the turmeric and coriander powder and sauté for a few more minutes. QNow add the coconut milk and coconut water. Let the stew come to a boil, and then add 3/4 of the roasted masala mix. Lower the temperature and season with salt. Let it simmer for 10 minutes. QMeanwhile, in a flat pan, heat the remaining oil and sauté the marinated prawns. Add the curry leaves. QAs soon as the curry looks ready, add the prawns and sprinkle over the remaining roasted masala. Quickly take it off the heat and serve with appams. Guilt Free airs on Wednesdays at 9.30pm on NDTV Good Times

‘‘At home I’m as likely to cook Thai, Italian or French as Indian food, especially if I have Indian friends coming for dinner. When I changed careers from business to food I wanted to experience different cuisines and all aspects of the food world before committing to one area. I worked in restaurant kitchens around the world including the Park Royal Hotel in New Delhi, Café Spice in New York, Asia de Cuba in Los Angeles’ Mondrian Hotel and for Tommy Tang’s catering company, also in LA. If I’m meeting up with friends I like to go to new restaurants or ones that I’ve heard about. I have my firm favourites, too;Yauatcha in Soho for dim sum and Caldesi in Marylebone for Italian trattoria cooking. I like to buy my food in as natural a state as possible. I do use supermarkets but mostly I go to my local shops. Luckily I have a couple of great delis and organic shops nearby. It’s proven that food doesn’t provide as much nourishment as it did 50 years ago because it’s now farmed faster. However, if I had to choose my last meal on this earth, it would be junk food, and lots of it. Plus a really rich and yummy Italian red wine, such as an Amarone.’’

MEDIA MUST-HAVES APP: FOODSPOTTING Build up an appetite by browsing through the photographs on this app, which allows users to share their foodie experiences by way of pictures. This is a great way to explore your neighbourhood – a user’s photos led us to discover a Bengali restaurant in our vicinity we had never heard about. WEBSITE: STONE SOUP This website by blogger Jules Clancy redefines rapid cooking, with the recipes taking no more than five ingredients and a few minutes to prepare. Clancy is especially partial to vegetarian dishes and the photos are drool worthy. BLOG: GLOBETROTTER DIARIES Armchair travelling that allows you to taste the world through delicious photographs and recipes – what could be better? This website lets you to live vicariously through the eyes of Karen and Valerie, two best friends who travel and cook together.

drink up night out

high on Thai Sweet, sour and spicy, these Asian-inspired cocktails will give you one hell of a flavour kick Recipes FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, BANGKOK Photograph RITAM BANERJEE

Tom yam siam Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY Mix 60ml vodka, 30ml Malibu rum, 3 lychees in syrup, 15ml lime juice and 20ml sugar syrup together. Serve in a rock glass and garnish with 3 lemongrass stalks, 1 kaffir ffir lime leaf and 3 thinly sliced chillies. hillies.

Mango sticky rice e Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY ASY

Thai tang mou Mix 60ml vodka, 60ml Malibu alibu rum, 1/2 sliced mango, 15ml 5ml Thai lemon juice and 30ml vanilla nilla syrup together, saving a piece of the mango half for the garnish. Serve in a martini glass, garnish with the remaining maining mango and a pinch of sesame ame seeds and top with some coconutt cream.

Tangerine lemon n

Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY Mix 60ml rum, 90ml fresh watermelon juice, 35ml sugar syrup, 15ml lemon juice and 15ml ginger juice together. Serve in a long glass and garnish with basil leaves.

Chilli Bloody Mary Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY

Serves 1 Q10 minutes QEASY ASY Mix 45ml vodka, 30ml Cointreau, ointreau, 30ml orange juice, 3 crushed shed cloves, 45ml lemon juice, 45ml vanilla syrup and 3 dashes es of orange bitters together. Serve erve in a long glass and garnish with h an orange peel and a clove.

Mix 30ml spice-infused vodka, 75ml tomato juice, 15ml lime juice, 2 dashes each of Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco together. Add salt and pepper. Serve in a rock glass and garnish with celery and lime wedges.

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QCook the onions, garlic and ginger gently in oil until softened. Add the carrot and spices and cook for 2 minutes. QAdd the vegetable stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the butter beans and cook for 10 minutes. Ladle half the soup into a blender or food processor and whizz until smooth. Pour back into the pan and gently reheat before serving. Q PER SERVING 174 kcals, protein 9.3g, carbs 25.2g, fat 4.5g, sat fat 0.6g, fibre 11.1g, salt 1.8g *Recipe costings are based on the amounts of ingredients used, eg 125g butter is costed at half the price of a 250g pack. The store cupboard ingredients are not included in the costing; we assume that these are consumed daily and do not need to be especially purchased.

TUESDAY Peking-style g y chicken with spring p onion stir-fry Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY whole chicken thighs 4 Chinese five spice 2 tsp (try Dynasty available at gourmet stores) honey 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp Chinese cabbage 1/2 small head, shredded spring onions 6, shredded ginger a small chunk, julienned red chilli 1, shredded groundnut oil 75ml QHeat the oven to 200°C. Put the chicken thighs on a baking tray and cook for 10 minutes. Mix the five spice, honey and soy. Drain away any excess fat from the chicken then brush all over with the mix and cook for a further 10 minutes. QIn the meantime, stir-fry the vegetables in groundnut oil for a couple of minutes until crisp. Serve the veggies with the chicken. Q PER SERVING 482 kcals, protein 41.3g, carbs 7.2g, fat 32.3g, sat fat 8.7g, fibre 0.7g, salt 0.8g APRIL 2013


Ph t Photograph h DAVID MUNNS



VEG IT Substitute the fried eggs with grilled slabs of paneer

THURSDAY Roasted cauliflower with barley and herbs Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY cauliflower 1/2 head, broken into small florets onion 1/2, chopped cumin powder 1 tsp coriander powder 1/2 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp chilli flakes a pinch groundnut oil 1 tbsp pearl barley 100g (try Down to Earth available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, zested and juiced mixed herbs (use parsley, coriander and mint) a handful yoghurt to serve

WEDNESDAY Roasted red pepper hash with fried eggs Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY baby potatoes 250g, halved olive oil 1 tbsp red onion 1/2 small, chopped roasted red peppers from a jar 2, torn into pieces (try Jamie Oliver available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season parsley a small bunch eggs 2, fried, to serve chilli sauce to serve 60 BBC GoodFood

QBoil the potatoes until tender, drain then cool. Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan and fry the potatoes, turning over until golden and crisp. Add the onion and fry for another 3-4 minutes. Add the peppers and heat through. Season, then stir through the parsley. Serve the potatoes topped with the eggs and chilli sauce. Q PER SERVING 422 kcals, protein 15g, carbs 45.2g, fat 21g, sat fat 4.2g, fibre 4.4g, salt 0.3g

QHeat the oven to 200°C. Put the cauliflower and onion in an ovenproof dish or tin. Add the spices and oil and toss together. Roast for 20 minutes until tender. QBoil the barley in salted water until tender then drain well and put in a large bowl. Tip in the hot cauliflower and the lemon juice and zest and toss together. Add the herbs and toss again. Serve with yoghurt on the side. Q PER SERVING 590 kcals, protein 20.8g, carbs 92g, fat 16.5g, sat fat 3.2g, fibre 8.4g, salt 0.1g APRIL 2013

SATURDAY Rigatoni al forno Serves 2 Q30 minutes + baking Q EASY rigatoni 150g (try Barilla available at gourmet stores) mozzarella a small ball, diced grana padano 1 tbsp, grated (try Zanetti available at gourmet stores) THE PASTA SAUCE oil 1/2 tbsp pork or chicken and herb sausages 3, skinned or cubed garlic clove 1, crushed fennel seeds 1/2 tsp, crushed rosemary 1 tsp, chopped tomatoes 400g, small, chopped

FRIDAY Quick prawn gumbo Serves 2 Q30 minutes Q EASY smoked streaky bacon 4 rashers, chopped groundnut oil 50ml onion 1, finely chopped garlic cloves 2, chopped celery 2 stalks, sliced diagonally plain flour 1 tsp tomatoes 200g, small, chopped chicken stock 200ml green pepper 1, cut into chunks thyme 2 sprigs cayenne pepper 1 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) smoked hot paprika a good pinch salt and pepper to season raw tiger prawns 200g, peeled flat-leaf parsley a small bunch steamed rice to serve 62 BBC GoodFood

QCook the bacon in groundnut oil until crisp, then add the onion, garlic and celery. Cook until softened and starting to colour. Sprinkle over the flour and cook, stirring until the bacon, vegetables and flour turn golden. QTip in the tomatoes and keep stirring till everything is combined. Stir in the stock then add the green pepper, thyme, cayenne and paprika. Season really well. Simmer for 15-20 minutes until thickened. Add the prawns and cook for 3-4 minutes until just cooked through. Stir in the parsley and serve with rice. Q PER SERVING 315 kcals, protein 34g, carbs 13.6g, fat 14g, sat fat 4.3g, fibre 5.6g, salt 2.8g

QTo make the sauce, heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan. Add the sausages and cook, breaking them up as they brown, so you have small pieces. Add the garlic, fennel and rosemary and cook for a couple of minutes. QAdd the tomatoes then simmer for 20 minutes until thickened. Cook the pasta but keep an eye on it, and stop cooking when it is a couple of minutes away from being done — you will be cooking it more in the oven so you want it to still have a bit of bite. QMix the pasta with the sauce and tip into a baking dish. Scatter over the mozzarella and grana padano and bake for 20-30 minutes until bubbling and golden. Serve with a salad. Q PER SERVING 632 kcals, protein 29.1g, carbs 52.2g, fat 34.1g, sat fat 13.6g, fibre 2g, salt 2.5g APRIL 2013

eat in everyday

APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 63

eat in everyday

SUNDAY Roast pumpkin, blue cheese and sage tart Serves 2 Q1 hour 15 minutes Q EASY You can make a round or rectangular tart – just roll the pastry about 3cm larger than you want the tart and fold the edges over to form the shell. Goat’s cheese would also work well.

QHeat the oven to 200°C. Whizz the flour and butter to breadcrumbs in a food processor. Add half the parmesan, seasoning and the egg and pulse to a dough. Wrap in cling-film and chill. QMeanwhile, toss the pumpkin with oil and lots of seasoning. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes. Cool while you roll out the pastry. QUse a little extra flour to dust the work surface then roll out the pastry to a rough 30cm x 20cm rectangle. Put on a clean non-stick baking sheet. Arrange the pumpkin on the pastry, leaving a wide 3cm border. Dot over the cheese and scatter the sage and the rest of the parmesan. Bring up the edges of the tart to make a freeform shell. Glaze with egg or milk then cook for 30 minutes until crisp and light golden. Serve warm. Q PER SERVING 650 kcals, protein 22g, carbs 47g, fat 41.4g, sat fat 24.1g, fibre 3.5g, salt 2g


64 BBC GoodFood

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plain flour 100g + extra for dusting butter 50g parmesan 50g salt and pepper to season egg 1 + 1 for glazing pumpkin 250g, peeled and cubed olive oil 1 tbsp roquefort cheese 50g sage leaves a small handful, shredded

eat in lunchbox

Quick lunches

These lunches are quick and easy to prepare – whether you’re eating them on the go or packing them up for work Smoked salmon wrap Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY Recipe JUSTINE PATTISON Mix 1 tbsp horseradish sauce e with 1 tbsp mayonnaise, then spread equally over 2 tortillas. Divide 2 handfuls of arugula, 50g cooked, julienned beetroot and 1 julienned carrot on top. Add 75g smoked salmon. Sprinkle some hot paprika.. Fold up the bottom of the tortillas to cover a quarter of the filling, then fold in the sides. Wrap in cling-film. QPER SERVING 233 kcals, protein 14.5g, carbs 33.2g, fat 4.6g, sat fat 1.5g, fibre 2.8g, salt 2.5g

Carrot and hummus roll-ups Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS Spread 200g hummus between 4 tortilla wraps. Coarsely grate 4 carrots and scatter on top of the hummus, then add a small handful of rocket leaves and some seasoning. Roll up and pack. QPER SERVING 355 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 37g, fat 19g, sat fat 3g, fibre 6g, sugar 8g, salt 1.09g

Prawn cocktail rolls Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS Mix 3 tbsp mayonnaise with 1 tbsp ketchup and a few drops of Tabasco. Mix in 200g small cooked prawns. Shred 2 lettuce leaves, then scatter over the middle of 3 whole wheat wraps. Top each with the prawn cocktail mix and some seasoning. Roll up and serve with extra Tabasco. QPER SERVING 332 kcals, protein 20g, carbs 31g, fat 15g, sat fat 2g, fibre 2g, sugar 3g, salt 2.24g APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 65

Photograph DAVID MUNNS

Serves 3 Q15 minutes QEASY

Ready in 20

Whip up these delicious recipes in 20 minutes or less Rice noodles with prawns, edamame and grapefruit rice noodles 25g, soaked in boiling water until soft, rinsed and drained (try Blue Elephant available at gourmet stores) edamame beans 150g, boiled REALLY REALLY grapefruit 1, 1/2 juiced and 1/2 QUICK segmented prawns 200g, cooked and peeled red onion 1/2, small, thinly sliced into half-moons chilli sauce 1 tbsp root ginger 2cm piece, grated fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) golden caster sugar 1 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season mint or coriander leaves to serve QPut the noodles in a bowl. Add the edamame beans, grapefruit segments, prawns and red onion. Mix the chilli sauce, ginger, fish sauce, grapefruit juice and the sugar, and pour over the salad. Season to taste. Toss and sprinkle with some fresh mint or coriander. QPER SERVING 349 kcals, protein 14.1g, carbs 65.9g, fat 5g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4.4g, salt 1.66g

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Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY


eat e at in in everyday everyday

Cobb salad with turkey and avocado (recipe overleaf) APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 67

Mackerel, beetroot and cucumber tartine Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY mackerel 200g, tinned cucumber 1/4, deseeded and diced golden caster sugar 2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) cider vinegar 2 tbsp (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) dill 1 tbsp, chopped salt and pepper to season dijon mustard 1 tbsp (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) brown bread 2 slices, lightly toasted beetroot 2, cooked and sliced

VEG IT By using crumbled goat’s cheese instead of the mackerel

QRemove the skin from the mackerel and discard. In a small bowl mix the cucumber with 1 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp vinegar, dill and season. In another bowl, mix the mustard and the remaining sugar and vinegar. Spread the mustard mixture on each slice of bread. Top with the beetroot and flaked fish. Spoon over the relish and serve with salad. QPER SERVING 485 kcals, protein 23.4g, carbs 28.7g, fat 31.5g, sat fat 7.5g, fibre 1.5g, salt 2.93g

Linguine with cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese

Cobb salad with turkey and avocado Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY

avocado 1, small, peeled and cut into pieces roast turkey or chicken breast 200g, chopped tomatoes 100g, small, quartered arugula 50g, leaves only smoked bacon 2 slices, fried THE DRESSING extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp roquefort cheese 2 tbsp, crumbled red wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio 68 BBC GoodFood

available at gourmet stores) dijon mustard 1 tsp (try American Garden available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season QTo make the dressing, mix the olive oil with the other ingredients in a small bowl and season. QArrange all the salad ingredients, except the bacon, on a serving plate. Crumble over the bacon and spoon over the dressing just before serving. PER SERVING 434 kcals, protein 36.6g, carbs 2.9g, fat 30.8g, sat fat 7.5g, fibre 2.6g,

linguine 200g cherry tomatoes 125g, halved green olives a handful, pitted and halved (try Fragatta available at gourmet stores) capers 1 tbsp, rinsed (try Epicure available at gourmet stores) REALLY basil 25g, roughly chopped REALLY salt and pepper to season EASY goat’s cheese 50g (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) QCook the pasta following the packet instructions, then drain. Meanwhile, tip the tomatoes, olives, capers and basil into a bowl and season well. QTip in the pasta and toss to combine. Add the goat’s cheese in blobs and toss once. QPER SERVING 482 kcals, protein 18g, carbs 80g, fat 12g, sat fat 6g, fibre 5g, sugar 6g, salt 2.25g APRIL 2013


Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

Crisp tofu with ginger and chilli

Spicy chicken, mango and jalapeño salad Serves 4 Q15 minutes QEASY cherry tomatoes 250g, sliced jalapeños 2 tbsp, finely chopped (try Old El Paso available at gourmet stores) coriander a handful, roughly chopped lime 1, juiced + more halves to serve red onion 1 small, finely chopped extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp salt and pepper to season chicken breasts 4, cooked (marinated with salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil, grilled and shredded) lettuce leaves 2, torn into bite-sized pieces 70 BBC GoodFood

red pepper 1, deseeded and sliced mango 1, stoned, peeled and diced tortilla chips a handful, broken (try Lady Liberty available at gourmet stores) QPut the cherry tomatoes, jalapeños, coriander, lime juice, onion and oil in a large bowl with some seasoning. QPop the remaining ingredients, except the tortilla chips, on top of the dressing. Gently mix the salad together to coat. Sprinkle the tortilla chips over the top and serve immediately with lime halves. QPER SERVING 481 kcals, protein 22g, carbs 37g, fat 27g, sat fat 6g, fibre 6g, sugar 15g, salt 1.5g

firm tofu 1 pack, drained and cut into large cubes flour for dusting oil 100ml root ginger 1 tbsp, finely shredded red chilli 1, finely shredded shallots 2, cut into thin rings spring onions 2, finely sliced rice vinegar 2 tbsp (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) sesame oil 2 tbsp mirin 2 tbsp (try Mizkan available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season steamed rice to serve QDust the tofu in flour. Heat the oil in a wok until very hot, then fry the tofu until crisp and lift out. QTip out all but 1/2 tbsp oil and add the ginger, chilli, shallots and onions. Stir-fry quickly, then add the rice vinegar, sesame oil and mirin and spoon over the tofu. Season to taste. Serve with rice and drizzle over extra vinegar and sesame oil, if you like. QPER SERVING 485 kcals, protein 21g, carbs 20g, fat 36g, sat fat 5g, fibre 2g, sugar 4g, salt 0.33g APRIL 2013


Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

Cooking with

JACKFRUIT Discover the surprising versatility of this deliciously stinky fruit in both its raw and ripe forms

“The jackfruit can either be used when young and raw or when it turns ripe and yellow. The younger variety needs to be cooked before use, while the ripe one can be eaten straight after it is peeled. The meaty texture of raw jackfruit makes it a great substitute for meat. These recipes offer a contemporary twist on the jackfruit, transforming it into something exciting, colourful and fresh.” — Amit Pamnani, Associate food editor, BBC Good Food



eat in in season

Sweet and spicy apple and jackfruit salad Serves 4 Q20 minutes QEASY This healthy salad is devoid of oil and has lots of vegetables that impart colour and crunch. With its sweet, spicy and sour Thai-inspired flavours, it is a refreshing and nutritious way to tickle your taste buds. raw jackfruit 200g, peeled and cubed green apple 1 raw mango 1 carrot 1 spring onions 2 tbsp, chopped coriander 1 tbsp, chopped red chillies 2, slit lengthwise salt to taste black pepper 1 tsp, crushed sweet chilli sauce 2 tbsp peanuts 30g, roasted, peeled and crushed QBoil the jackfruit in a pressure cooker, one whistle should be enough. Drain the boiled jackfruit and let it cool. Slice the apple, raw mango and carrot very thinly. Cut each slice of the vegetables into thin juliennes. QFlake the cooled jackfruit into big chunks with your hands. Mix the jackfruit, apple, raw mango, carrot, spring onions, red chillies, salt, pepper and sweet chilli sauce together. Garnish with roasted peanuts. QPER SERVING 147.25 kcals, protein 2.60g, carbs 30.23g, fat 2.43g, sat fat 0.48g, fibre 4.20g, salt 0.1g APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 73

Jackfruit kebabs

garam masala powder 2 tsp rosewater 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp butter 2 tbsp

Serves 4 Q45 minutes QEASY These melt-in-the-mouth kebabs made with jackfruit will surely become one of the permanent fixtures on your party menus. Simple to make and high on taste, these kebabs are best served as starters. raw jackfruit 125g, peeled and cubed potato 1/2, boiled and peeled paneer 50g, grated bread 3 slices coriander 2 tbsp, chopped green chillies 1-2, chopped red chilli powder 1 tsp amchoor powder 1 tsp salt to taste coriander powder 1 tsp ginger 1 tsp, grated breadcrumbs 1/2 cup oil 4 tbsp QBoil the jackfruit in a pressure cooker till tender, one whistle should be enough. Drain the jackfruit and mash along with the potato and paneer. QAdd the rest of the ingredients and mix well; it should be dough-like. QDivide the dough into small balls and flatten each ball in the shape of a kebab. QDust each kebab with breadcrumbs on both sides. QHeat oil in a non-stick pan and shallow-fry the kebabs in batches on a slow flame, till golden and crisp on both sides. Serve hot with mint chutney. QPER SERVING 279.25 kcals, protein 5.18g, carbs 32.03g, fat 15.40g, sat fat 1.23g, fibre 2.15g, salt 0.2g

Jackfruit biryani Serves 4 Q1 hour QA LITTLE EFFORT This unusual biryani will give any mutton biryani a run for its money. With its slight chewiness and neutral flavour, the jackfruit absorbs all the goodness of the whole spices, lending the biryani a beautifully well-rounded flavour. THE RICE oil 3 tbsp shah jeera 1/2 tsp 74 BBC GoodFood

cinnamon stick 1 bay leaf 1 green cardamoms 2-3 cloves 2-3 black peppercorns 2-3 basmati rice 400g salt to taste water 700ml THE JACKFRUIT oil 3 tbsp + extra for deep frying raw jackfruit 400g, peeled and cubed cumin seeds 1 tsp black cardamom 1 onions 3, chopped ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp coriander powder 1 tbsp tomatoes 4, chopped salt to taste yoghurt 6 tbsp, whisked THE LAYERING onions 2, sliced and deep-fried until golden cashewnuts 2 tbsp, fried coriander leaves 2 tbsp, chopped mint 2 tbsp, chopped saffron a generous pinch, soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk

QTo make the rice, heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the shah jeera, cinnamon, bay leaf, cardamoms, cloves and black peppercorns. Add the basmati rice and salt. Stir the rice in the oil and sauté for 2-3 minutes. QAdd the water and cover the pan with a lid. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 10 minutes. Switch off the gas and let the lid be on the pan. Let the rice rest for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and let it cool. QFor the jackfruit, heat oil in a wok. Once hot, add the jackfruit pieces and deep-fry till golden. Drain and keep aside. QHeat 3 tbsp oil in a pan, add cumin seeds and black cardamom. After they begin to splutter, add the chopped onions and sauté on a medium flame till light brown. Add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté for a minute. QAdd the spices and sauté for a minute. Add the chopped tomatoes and salt and cook for 5-6 minutes. Add the yoghurt and switch off the gas. Add the fried jackfruit pieces and stir well. QIn a baking dish of suitable size, spoon half of the jackfruit mixture at the bottom. Add half of the cooled rice and spread evenly. QThereafter, spread half of the fried onions, cashewnuts, chopped coriander, mint and the soaked saffron. Sprinkle garam masala powder, rosewater and lemon juice evenly over the rice. QPut blobs of soft butter over the rice. Add the remaining jackfruit gravy on top and cover with the remaining rice. Sprinkle over the rest of the layering ingredients; cover the dish with aluminum foil. QHeat the oven to 180°C and place the biryani for 25 minutes. Serve hot. QPER SERVING 785.50 kcals, protein 13.85g, carbs 121.78g, fat 26.88g, sat fat 3.55g, fibre 6.43g, salt 0.2g

APRIL 2013

eat in in season

cashewnuts, basil leaves and 2 tbsp chopped spring onions. Season well and serve hot. QPER SERVING 387.25 kcals, protein 4.18g, carbs 25.93g, fat 31.65g, sat fat 12.73g, fibre 3.40g, salt 1.3g

Baked jackfruit stroganoff pie Serves 4 Q1 hour QEASY Here’s a modern twist to the traditional stroganoff with the meat replaced by jackfruit. The flaky, golden puff pastry crust cracks with a beautiful crunch and contrasts beautifully with the creamy inside. butter 50g onions 50g, sliced button mushrooms 200g, sliced brandy 50ml water 50ml gherkins 75g, sliced dijon mustard 1 tbsp (try Roland available at gourmet stores) cream 325ml salt to season raw jackfruit 200g, peeled, cubed and boiled rolled puff pastry 100g (try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores)

Thai stir-fry jackfruit Serves 4 Q30 minutes QEASY Fresh vegetables, crispy jackfruit and aromatic spices combine lend a heady aroma, taste and texture to this flavourpacked stir-fry. Quick to prepare and full of colour, it transforms bland, raw jackfruit into a culinary experience. oil 2 tbsp + extra for deep frying raw jackfruit 250g, peeled and cubed spring onions 3, peeled and halved, white part only + 2 tbsp extra, chopped bell pepper 1, diced coconut milk 200ml cashewnuts 2 tbsp, roasted basil leaves 2-3 salt and pepper to season THE STIR FRY PASTE spring onions 3-4, sliced, bulbs only red chilli 1 76 BBC GoodFood

ginger 1 tsp, chopped garlic cloves 2-3 kaffir lime leaves 3-4 lemon juice 1 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) basil leaves 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp sugar 1 tsp QTo make the paste, blend all the ingredients to a smooth purée. Keep aside. QHeat oil in a wok and deep-fry the jackfruit cubes until golden and crisp. Drain and keep aside. QIn a clean wok, heat 2 tbsp oil. Add the spring onions and bell peppers and sauté on high heat. Add the fried jackfruit cubes and toss well. Add the stir fry paste and coconut milk to the vegetables and mix well. Add roasted

QHeat the butter in a pan. Add the sliced onions and sauté till golden brown. QAdd the sliced mushrooms and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the brandy and cook for 30 seconds until the alcohol burns off. QAdd water, gherkins, mustard and cream. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce thickens. Season well. Add the boiled jackfruit pieces and switch off the gas. QPlace the jackfruit stroganoff in an ovenproof baking dish. Cover the top of the baking dish with the rolled puff pastry. Trim the falling edges of the pastry from the sides of the baking dish. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 25 minutes until the pastry is golden. Serve hot. QPER SERVING 549 kcals, protein 6.50g, carbs 20.95g, fat 43.90g, sat fat 26.53g, fibre 1.95g, salt 0.3g APRIL 2013

eat in in season

If puff pastry is unavailable, you could also use shortcrust pastry as a substitute

roll into pillow-shaped balls. They can be used directly or can be rolled over the back of a fork to give a ridged effect. QBoil plenty of salted water in a pan. Drop the dumplings into the boiling water and wait till they start floating, approximately 1 minute. Drain the gnocchi and keep aside. QTo make the sauce, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Add the chopped onions and garlic. Sauté till the onions become translucent and the garlic begins to brown. QAdd the chopped tomatoes and let the sauce simmer for 10 minutes. Add salt, pepper and basil leaves to the sauce. Lastly, add the cubed mozzarella and switch off the gas. QTo serve, place the tomato sauce on a plate. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Toss the gnocchi in the oil for a minute. Arrange it on top of the tomato sauce and garnish with parmesan shavings. QPER SERVING 273 kcals, protein 6.30g, carbs 27.95g, fat 16.35g, sat fat 4.45g, fibre 3.23g, salt 0.3g

Jackfruit kulfi Serves 4 Q30 minutes + overnight freezing QEASY Cool off in the summer months with this unusual yet heavenly frozen dessert made of sweet jackfruit, milk and nuts.

Jackfruit gnocchi with fresh tomato and mozzarella sauce

parmesan 1 tbsp, grated parsley 1 tbsp, chopped

Serves 4 Q45 minutes QEASY

THE SAUCE olive oil 3 tbsp onion 1/2, finely chopped garlic cloves 3, finely chopped tomatoes 5, chopped salt to taste pepper 1 tsp basil leaves 3-4 mozzarella 3 tbsp, cubed parmesan shavings a handful

This is a novel take on the Italian classic. Jackfruit, which doesn’t grow in Italy, is used in this recipe to add a twist of taste to the classic gnocchi in tomato sauce. This restaurant-style dish is sure to raise eyebrows at any social gathering. THE GNOCCHI potato 1, baked raw jackfruit 200g, peeled, cubed and boiled flour 10g salt to taste pepper 1 tsp fresh oregano 1 tsp, chopped 78 BBC GoodFood

QTo make the gnocchi, peel the baked potato and mash well. Mix the boiled jackfruit, potato, flour, salt, pepper, fresh oregano, parmesan and parsley together to form a dough. QTake small portions of the dough and

ripe jackfruit 100g, peeled and flaked milk 220ml condensed milk 100g saffron a pinch sugar 30g cornflour 10g pistachios 2 tbsp, chopped QPurée half the jackfruit and chop the remaining half. Keep aside. QPut 200ml milk and the condensed milk in a pan and bring to a boil. Once boiled, simmer and add saffron, sugar and the jackfruit purée. Cook for 10 minutes. QMix the cornflour with 20ml milk and add to the pan. Let it cook for 5 more minutes and then switch off the gas. Add pistachios and the chopped jackfruit. Mix well. Let it cool for 20 minutes and then pour into kulfi moulds. Freeze overnight and serve. QPER SERVING 195.25 kcals, protein 4.78g, carbs 33.90g, fat 5.25g, sat fat 2.60g, fibre 0.73g, salt 0g APRIL 2013

eat in in season


APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 79

Seeds of change It looks like a grain but is actually a seed. Give the uber healthy and versatile quinoa a chance at your next meal REALLY REALLY EASY

Quinoa and courgette salad Serves 2 Q20 minutes Q EASY

quinoa 75g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) courgette 1 large red wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) olive oil 2 tbsp salt and pepper to season spring onions 4, finely sliced cherry tomatoes 100g, halved red chilli 1, finely chopped feta 100g, crumbled (try Apertina available at gourmet stores) parsley a small bunch, chopped QCook the quinoa following the packet instructions. Rinse under cold water and drain. Cut the ends off the courgette then cut into ribbons using a potato peeler. Whisk them together with the vinegar and oil. Season to taste. Put the rest of the ingredients in a large bowl, then pour over the dressing and toss everything together. QPER SERVING 375 kcals, protein 15.9g, carbs 25.9g, fat 23.8g, sat fat 8g, fibre 2g, salt 1.37g 80 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013


Give this deliciously tart salad a try. It’s made to impress.


eat in modern veggie

Roasted tomato, halloumi and quinoa salad (recipe overleaf) APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 81

Feta and pepper quinoa balls Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY This is the perfect veggie substitute for meatballs. You could even toss them into a saucy spaghetti and serve it as a main course.

Roasted tomato, halloumi and quinoa salad Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY This Mediterranean-inspired salad is a foolproof recipe for all occasions. tomatoes 4 olive oil 2 1/2 tbsp salt and pepper to season red onion 1/2 small, finely sliced red wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) cumin 1 tsp, ground quinoa 100g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) halloumi 250g, sliced (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores) parsley a handful pita bread and yoghurt to serve 82 BBC GoodFood

QHeat the oven to 220°C. Put the tomatoes on a baking tray, drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil and season. Roast for 25 minutes until the edges are frizzled. Put the onion, vinegar, 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil and cumin in a bowl with lots of seasoning and toss well. QCook the quinoa following pack instructions, drain well and then toss with the onion and dressing. Grill the halloumi until golden. Toss the parsley and tomatoes with the quinoa, then top with slices of halloumi. Serve with pita bread and yoghurt. QPER SERVING 696 kcals, protein 33g, carbs 36.7g, fat 47.4g, sat fat 19.9g, fibre 2.4g, salt 4.46g

QHeat the oven to 220°C. Cook the quinoa following packet instructions and drain well. Heat oil in a pan and add the bell pepper and pine nuts. Cook until the pepper has softened and the nuts are lightly golden. In a bowl, mix the quinoa with the zest, a handful of dill, mint, pepper, nuts, feta and breadcrumbs. Season well. QLine a baking sheet with baking parchment. Using your hands, carefully shape into balls the size of a walnut (you’ll make about 30). Put on the baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes or until golden and firm. QTo make the dressing, whisk the lemon juice with the mayonnaise and the other handful of dill and then season. Toss half the dressing with the cucumber. QTo serve, divide the salad and cucumber between 4 plates. Add the quinoa balls and drizzle over the remaining lemon and dill aioli. QPER SERVING 302 kcals, protein 12.2g, carbs 21.4g, fat 18.4g, sat fat 5.1g, fibre 2g, salt 1.4g

APRIL 2013


quinoa 120g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) olive oil 2 tbsp red bell pepper 1 small, finely chopped pine nuts 2 tbsp lemon 1, zested and juiced dill 2 handfuls, chopped mint 1 handful, chopped feta 100g, crumbled (try Apertina available at gourmet stores) breadcrumbs 1/2 cup salt and pepper to season veggie mayonnaise 4 tbsp cucumber 1, halved, deseeded and sliced salad leaves 4 large handfuls

eat in modern veggie

Mushroom and thyme risotto Serves 4 Qminutes Q EASY The addition of quinoa in risotto not only gives it a healthy twist but also lends an added textural surprise.


olive oil 1 tbsp button mushrooms 350g, sliced quinoa 100g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 1l arborio rice 175g (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) salt and pepper to season thyme leaves a handful parmesan a handful, grated rocket leaves 50g, to serve

QHeat the oil in a pan, sauté the mushrooms for 2-3 minutes, then stir in the quinoa. Keeping the vegetable stock warm in a separate pan on a low heat, add a ladle of the stock and stir until absorbed. QStir in the rice and repeat again with the stock, until all the stock has been used up and the rice and quinoa are tender and cooked. Season to taste. Stir in the thyme leaves and then divide between 4 plates. Serve topped with grated parmesan and rocket leaves. QPER SERVING 302 kcals, protein 11g, carbs 51g, fat 7g, sat fat 2g, fibre 3g, sugar 4g, salt 0.74g

APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 83

Pea, feta and quinoa spring rolls with roasted tomato nam prik Makes 12 Q2 hours 40 minutes + cooling Q A LITTLE EFFORT This innovative use of quinoa in spring rolls is a sure to be a hit at parties. Serve it as part of an Asian tapas platter with Thai rice crackers and tofu satay. quinoa 50g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) green peas 200g feta 85g, crumbled (try Apertina available at gourmet stores) mint leaves a small bunch, chopped spring onions 3, finely chopped lemon 1, zested and juiced salt and pepper to season filo pastry 6 sheets (try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores) oil to baste sunflower oil 100ml, for frying

Fruit and pumpkin quinoa Serves 4 Q40 minutes Q EASY pumpkin 1, peeled and diced onions 2, cut into thin wedges olive oil 2 tbsp + extra for drizzling salt and pepper to season quinoa 200g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) yoghurt 4 tbsp tahini 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, juiced almonds 85g, toasted and flaked pistachios 85g, shelled dried apricots 10, sliced mint leaves a handful, roughly chopped QHeat oven to 220°C. Toss the pumpkin and onions with 2 tbsp oil in a 84 BBC GoodFood

shallow roasting tin. Season and roast for about 30 minutes, shaking the tin once or twice, until the vegetables are tender. QCook the quinoa following pack instructions. When cooked, run under cold water and drain thoroughly. QStir together the yoghurt, tahini, most of the lemon juice and some seasoning to make a sauce. Mix the quinoa with the nuts, dried apricots, mint and some seasoning in a large bowl. Add the remaining lemon juice, drizzle with a little oil and stir well. Scatter over the pumpkin-onion mix and serve with the yoghurt sauce. QPER SERVING 662 kcals, protein 23g, carbs 62g, fat 36g, sat fat 5g, fibre 10g, sugar 29g, salt 0.2g

THE NAM PRIK tomatoes 6 large, halved extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp salt and pepper to season garlic clove 1, chopped red chilli 1/2, chopped ginger 2 tsp, grated coriander 1/2 bunch, roughly chopped mint leaves 1/4 bunch, roughly chopped lime juice 1 tbsp tamarind paste 1 tbsp (try Smith & Jones available at gourmet stores) palm sugar 1 tsp QHeat the oven to 160°C. To make the nam prik, place the tomatoes, cut-side up, on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast for 1 1/2 - 2 hours until semi-dried. Remove from the oven, cool and then tip into a food processor with the remaining ingredients and blitz to a purée. QCook the quinoa in a pan of boiling salted water following packet instructions. Drain and tip into a bowl. Set aside to cool. Cook the peas for 1 minute in boiling water, then drain and APRIL 2013

eat in modern veggie


For a healthier alternative, skip the filo rolls and serve the salad with the nam prik sauce

run under cold water for a few minutes. Drain thoroughly, tip into a food processor and pulse to a chunky purée. Add this to the cooled quinoa along with the feta, mint, spring onions and lemon zest and juice. Mix well to combine and season to taste, adding more lemon juice if required. QLay a sheet of filo in front of you, keeping the remainder covered under a damp tea towel. Cut the filo in half APRIL 2013

across the width to make 2 squares. With one corner pointing towards you, spoon 2 tbsp of the filling just below the centre line and shape into a log. Brush the pastry edges with oil, then fold in the 2 side corners. Keeping your fingers on the corners, bring the bottom corner up over the filling towards the centre, then roll up tightly towards the top corner. It’s important to roll as tightly as possible, so the spring rolls cook evenly.

Repeat with the remaining filo sheets and filling. QHeat sunflower oil in a large pan and fry the spring rolls, in batches, for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper. Transfer the spring rolls to a plate and serve with the nam prik sauce. QPER ROLL 166 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 13g, fat 11g, sat fat 2g, fibre 2g, sugar 5g, salt 0.4g BBC GoodFood 85

eat in weekend

wichcraft ·

Give your daily bread a gourmet makeover with these haute sandwiches that are anything but predictable Recipes VICKY RATNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA

eat in weekend

“With these recipes I have pushed the boundaries of traditional fillings to create poshed-up sandwiches. So go ahead and experiment with breads, spreads and condiments.” — Vicky Ratnani, Head chef, Aurus, Mumbai

Chicken parmigiana ciabatta with rocket and marinated tomatoes (recipe on p 92)

Hip street sandwich Serves 2 Q25 minutes Q EASY This is the quintessential take on our street or ‘rasta’ sandwich — it’s so simple but packed with so much character and taste. The marinated veggies and sharp cheddar add complexity and make it all the more flavourful. white bread 4 large slices chilli cilantro pesto 1 tbsp butter 1 tsp sharp cheddar cheese 30g, grated chaat masala 1 tsp black salt a pinch THE CHILLI CILANTRO PESTO green chilli 1 + extra to taste cilantro leaves 1 cup salt and pepper to taste ginger 1/2 tsp peanuts 1 tsp, toasted lemon juice 1 tsp cumin powder 1/2 tsp, roasted

Garlicky prawns, sweet chilli mayo and red cabbage slaw on a hot dog bun Serves 2 Q10 minutes + marinating Q EASY My version of the hot dog: the sea dog. This sandwich was inspired by a similar salad I had once eaten. A chilled beer to accompany the garlicky prawns is a must! prawns 140g, cleaned and deveined olive oil 2 tbsp, for sautéing hot dog buns 2 lollo rosso lettuce 20g Thai sweet chilli sauce 1 tbsp (try Woh Hup available at gourmet stores) THE MARINADE garlic cloves 2, peeled and chopped parsley 1 tbsp, chopped basil 3 leaves, chopped thyme leaves a pinch, chopped coriander leaves 1 tbsp, chopped olive oil 1 tbsp 88 BBC GoodFood

lemon juice 1 tsp salt and pepper to taste sweet chilli mayo 1 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp THE SLAW red cabbage 1/2 cup, shredded carrots 1/3 cup, shredded salt and sugar a pinch each vinegar 1/2 tsp soy sauce 1/2 tsp olive oil 1/2 tsp QMarinate the prawns with the marinade and leave aside for 45 minutes. To prepare the slaw, mix all the ingredients together and keep aside. Sauté the prawns in olive oil for 2-3 minutes. Split each hot dog bun from the top, not totally through but just to create a little pocket. Lay the lettuce in the pocket and add the slaw. Spoon the prawns and drizzle with sweet chilli sauce. QPER SERVING 491.5 kcals, protein 16.45g, carbs 45.05g, fat 29.05g, sat fat 3.75g, fibre 4.25g, salt 0.9g

THE MARINATED VEGETABLES oil 1 tbsp red onion 5 slices zucchini 4 slices beetroot 8 slices, boiled potato 8 slices, boiled tomato 6-8 slices cucumber 6 slices green chilli 1, finely chopped coriander 1/2 cup QTo make the pesto, grind all the ingredients together in a grinder or in a mortar and pestle for a chunkier texture. Marinate the thinly sliced vegetables in the chilli cilantro pesto and oil. Set aside. QToast the bread well. Spread the butter evenly on the slices of toasted bread. Layer the slices with the vegetables neatly; pile them up in a stack. Sprinkle the cheddar cheese and chaat masala along with some black salt. Top with the other slice of bread. Cut into bite-sized pieces and serve. QPER SERVING 439.50 kcals, protein 9.70g, carbs 64.85g, fat 15.35g, sat fat 2.90g, fibre 8.95g, salt 1.1g APRIL 2013

eat in weekend

Tamarind ginger beef scaloppini with wasabi mayo and spring onion slaw Serves 2 Q25 minutes + marinating Q EASY My kind of Asian-inspired baguette! To add some spice, you could spike it with green chillies blended with wasabi mayo. As an alternative you could use chicken, fish or tofu. beef tenderloin steak 100g, batted thinly multigrain burger bun 2, cut in half cucumber 1, sliced

Focaccia with egg white frittata, spinach, asparagus and mozzarella Serves 2 Q20 minutes Q EASY Fluffy, light, somewhat healthy and succulent; you could eat this either hot or cold at any time of the day. This is my poshed-up version of an omelette sandwich with all its delicious trimmings. focaccia 2 thick slices spinach 1 tbsp, blanched and chopped red bell peppers 1 tbsp, chopped olives 2-3, chopped asparagus 1 tbsp, blanched and chopped olive oil 1 tbsp egg whites 3, well-beaten salt and pepper to season basil a few leaves, shredded chives 1 tsp, chopped mozzarella 3 tbsp rocket or arugula leaves a handful, shredded balsamic vinegar 1/2 tsp 90 BBC GoodFood

THE SPREAD mayonnaise 2 tbsp sundried tomatoes 1 tbsp, puréed capers 2-3 parsley 1 tbsp, chopped QSlice the focaccia into two. Blend all the ingredients for the spread. Apply generously on both sides of the bread. QIn a non-stick pan, sauté the chopped spinach, bell peppers, olives, and asparagus in olive oil for 30 seconds. Add in the beaten egg white and mix well. Season to taste. Add the basil and chives. When the bottom is almost set, add the grated mozzarella and finish the frittata in the oven for 5-6 minutes. QTrim the frittata into the shape of the bread and place on each slice of focaccia. Toss the arugula with the balsamic vinegar. Top with arugula and then place the other piece of bread to finish the sandwich. Cut into any shape you like. QPER SERVING 795.5 kcals, protein 29.70g, carbs 118.45g, fat 25.45g, sat fat 5.50g, fibre 8.55g, salt 3.5g

THE ASIAN MARINADE ginger paste 1/2 tsp garlic paste 1/2 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp (try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores) tamarind pulp 1 tsp green chilli 1/2, finely chopped sugar 1/2 tsp rice vinegar 1 tsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) oil 1 tsp orange zest a pinch THE SLAW carrots 20g, julienned radish 20g, julienned red onion 20g, julienned spring onions 20g, julienned coriander 1 tsp, chopped salt and pepper to season lemon juice 1/2 tsp sesame oil 1 tsp THE SPREAD wasabi paste 1/2 tsp milk 1 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp QAsk your butcher to bash the steak for you. To prepare the Asian marinade, mix all the ingredients together. Use it to marinate the steak for 30 minutes. Sear the meat well on both sides in a hot pan or grill, about 5-10 minutes on each side. Set aside. QIn the meantime, mix all the vegetables for the slaw in a bowl. APRIL 2013

eat in weekend Dress with salt, pepper, lemon juice and sesame oil. To make the spread, mix the wasabi paste in a tablespoon of milk. Whisk in the mayonnaise. Use this to spread the burger bun.

QLay the cucumber slices on the burger bun. Place the steak and top with the crunchy slaw. QPER SERVING 248 kcals, protein 3.35g, carbs 26.10g, fat 10g, sat fat 1.90g, fibre 2.50g, salt 0.5g

white or brown bread 4 slices, toasted avocado 2 large, peeled, stoned and sliced pickled cucumbers 12 slices pickled red onion 12-16 slices kiwifruit 2 medium-sized, peeled and sliced blue cheese 30g, crumbled (try Ballarini available at gourmet stores) cracked black pepper 1 tsp

Chicken parmigiana ciabatta with rocket and marinated tomatoes Serves 2 Q35 minutes Q EASY This has to be my all-time favourite sandwich. The chicken parmigiana is a popular entrée but in its sandwich avatar, the rocket leaves and tomatoes take it to another level. ciabatta bread 2 thick slices olive oil 4 tsp chicken breast 2 pieces, skinless, boneless and batted thinly salt and pepper to season nutmeg a pinch flour 1 tbsp tomatoes 2, medium-sized oregano a pinch salt and cracked black pepper a pinch each red wine vinegar 1 tsp pesto 3 tbsp (try Sacla available at gourmet stores) iceberg lettuce 3-4 leaves, trimmed to fit the bread THE BATTER parmesan 1 1/2 tbsp, grated egg 1 milk 2 tbsp chives 1 tsp, chopped parsley 1 tsp, chopped cream 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp 92 BBC GoodFood

THE PICKLE vinegar 4 tbsp sugar 2 tsp salt a pinch beetroot purée 2 tsp water 2 tbsp onion rings 8-10 cucumber 12 slices QSplit each of the bread slices into two. Brush with 2 tsp olive oil and toast or grill. QIn a non-reactive bowl, whisk all the ingredients for the batter. Set aside. Season the chicken with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Dust in flour on both sides, then immerse it in the batter to coat evenly. Pan-fry to a golden brown colour in olive oil, about 5 minutes on each side. Drain and set aside. QSlice the tomato into thick slices. Marinate with 2 tsp olive oil, oregano, black pepper, salt and red wine vinegar. QSpread the bread with some pesto, top with the lettuce, half the sliced tomatoes, followed by the chicken and finally the remaining sliced tomatoes. Top up the bread and serve warm. QPER SERVING 573.5 kcals, protein 29.85g, carbs 17.45g, fat 42.70g, sat fat 13.55g, fibre 1.75g, salt 0.7g

Open-faced avocado with pickled veggies, kiwi and blue cheese Serves 2 Q15 minutes Q EASY This is open-faced avant garde! That may sound pretentious but it’s actually approachable and delicious. The kiwi offers the perfect sweet and tart contrast to the creamy avocado and pickled veggies.

THE FIG AND SHALLOT MARMALADE dried figs 60g, soaked and chopped in a cup of water shallots 4, sliced sherry vinegar 2 tbsp sugar 2 tsp salt to taste QFor the pickle, lightly warm the vinegar, sugar, salt, beet puree and water. Bring the pickling liquid to room temperature. Add the sliced onion rings and cucumbers and refrigerate. QFor the fig and shallot marmalade, cook the figs, shallots, sherry vinegar, sugar and the water used for soaking the figs as well. Cook till the shallots and figs are soft and the mixture is quite syrupy. Blend and reserve. Add a pinch of salt. Chill. QSpread the slices of toasted bread with the marmalade. Neatly arrange the sliced avocado and cucumber on the bread. Then top with the pickled onions and kiwifruit. Sprinkle the blue cheese over along with cracked black pepper. QPER SERVING 596.5 kcals, protein 10.4g, carbs 78.35g, fat 30.55g, sat fat 5.25g, fibre 13.55g, salt 0.9g

APRIL 2013

eat in weekend

sweet assembly


Fancy something sweet that won’t take an age to make? Our easy-peasy puds do the trick

Mango and passion fruit fool (recipe on p 96)

eat in show-off

Pears with speedy choc sauce Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY pear halves in syrup 2 x 400g cans chocolate 100g, chopped into small chunks (try Morde or Valrhona available at gourmet stores) vanilla ice cream 8 scoops hazelnuts 2 tbsp, toasted and chopped


QDrain the pears over a small pan. Divide them between 4 dessert glasses or bowls. Boil the syrup on a high heat until reduced and thick. Take off the heat and stir in the chocolate until melted.

QAdd 2 scoops of ice cream onto each portion of pears and pour over the hot chocolate sauce. Top with the chopped nuts. QPER SERVING 354 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 53g, fat 15g, sat fat 8g, fibre 3g, sugar 51g, salt 0.19g


Sgroppino Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY lemon ice cream 4 scoops prosecco 4 tbsp vodka or limoncello 2 tbsp ice cubes 2 handfuls egg whites 2, beaten until stiff (optional) lemon zest strands to garnish QPut 2 glasses in the freezer to chill. In a mixer (one that is sturdy enough to cope with ice) blend all the ingredients to a thick cream. Fold in the egg whites for extra lightness. QSpoon or pour the cold glass, scatter with lemon zest, and serve, topped up with more prosecco if you like. QPER SERVING 270 kcals, protein 4.3g, carbs 31.2g, fat 9.6g, sat fat 6.4g, fibre none, salt 0.19g

Rosewater and pistachio kulfi with griddled mangoes Serves 6 Q25 minutes + freezing QEASY

Sgroppino is a classic Venetian dessert-cum-after dinner cocktail which is always creamy, frothy and boozy.

Mango and passion fruit fool Serves 4 Q10 minutes + cooling QEASY mangoes 2 large, ripe passion fruit 4, halved lime juice 2 tbsp Greek yoghurt or sweetened hung curd 300g QPeel the mangoes and slice the cheeks off one and cut into small dices. Set aside. QCut the flesh from the remaining mango and stone, then purée the flesh. 96 BBC GoodFood

QSqueeze out the seeds from 2 of the passion fruit halves and mix with the mango purée. Add lime juice to taste. Gently fold the yoghurt and half the diced mango through the fruity purée. QDivide between 4 glasses and top with the remaining diced mango. Cover and chill for 30 minutes before eating. Scoop the seeds from the remaining passion fruit over the top of the fools to serve. QPER SERVING 390 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 27g, fat 30g, sat fat 19g, fibre 5g, sugar 27g, salt 0.06g


QEmpty the contents of the condensed milk into a bowl and beat in the rosewater and pistachios. Lightly whip the cream until it holds its shape, and then fold into the pistachio mixture. QPour into 6 small kulfi moulds. Cover the kulfi and freeze. Slice each mango on either side of the stone to make 6 halves, but don’t peel. Score a criss-cross into the flesh, but don’t slice through the skin. (You can do this several hours ahead.) QCook on the barbecue, flesh-side down until starting to caramelise. Leave as it is or turn inside out to make the segments stand proud. Serve with the kulfi scattered with the pistachios and a squeeze of lime, if you like. QPER SERVING 601 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 60g, fat 38g, sat fat 20g, fibre 3g, sugar 59g, salt 0.30g

APRIL 2013


condensed milk 450g rosewater 2 tbsp pistachios 50g + extra to serve, finely chopped double cream 284ml (available at your local dairy) mangoes 3 small, ripe


eat in show-off

APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 97

White chocolate and raspberry pots Serves 8 Q30 minutes + chilling QMODERATELY EASY double cream 284ml (available at your local dairy) milk 150ml white chocolate 450g, chopped eggs yolks 6 frozen raspberries 150g, defrosted (try Delishh available at gourmet stores)

Baked pears p with amaretti Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY pears 4, ripe ricotta 100g (try Impero available at gourmet stores) cinnamon 1/2 tsp honey 4 tbsp + extra to serve amaretti biscuits 8 (try Orgran available at gourmet stores) QCut each pear into half and use a teaspoon to scoop out the cores and make a dip in the centre of each half. (If the pears are firm, you may need to use a sharp knife.) Dollop about one BBC GoodFood

heaped teaspoon of ricotta into each dip, then sprinkle over the cinnamon and drizzle with a little honey. Place the pears skin side down on a large baking tray. QHeat oven to 190°C, then roast the pears for 10 minutes. Tip the biscuits into a Ziploc bag and use a rolling pin to lightly crush them. Remove the pears from the oven, then scatter the crumbs over each one. Return to the oven for a further 10 minutes or until the pears are soft and the biscuit golden brown. Serve drizzled with honey. QPER SERVING 198 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 39g, fat 4g, sat fat 2g, fibre 4g, sugar 32g, salt 0.23g

TASTE TEAM COMMENT The beauty of this recipe is that it comes together very quickly. The flavours were perfect and the sweetness just right. I would add a little vanilla essence to the custard next time as I felt I could smell and taste the egg yolks distinctly. I used dried cranberries and fresh pomegranate instead of raspberries and they blended well with the custard. This is a showstopper after any meal, simple or elaborate. Rituparna Mukerji is a food blogger from Delhi and blogs at

APRIL 2013


QHeat the cream and milk together. Put the chocolate in a bowl and pour over the cream mixture. Stir until the chocolate is melted and then stir in the egg yolks. QPour back into the clean saucepan and stir over a low heat, stirring all the time until the mixture thickens enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon (don’t boil or you’ll scramble the eggs), then strain into a jug. QDivide the raspberries between eight small glasses. Divide the chocolate mixture between them, cover the glasses with cling-film and chill overnight or until set. They should be just firm but not solid. QPER SERVING 543kcals, protein 8.6g, carbs 35.2g, fat 41.9g, sat fat 22.6g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.22g


eat in show-off

APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 99

eat in show-off

Serves 4 Q20 minutes QEASY lime 1, juiced and zested honey 2 tbsp ground cinnamon 2 pinches whole nutmeg a few gratings icing sugar 2 tsp, sifted (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) whipped cream 200g butter 2 tsp pineapple 1, cut into 8 long wedges, skin and core removed

QMix the lime juice and half the lime zest with 1 tbsp honey, a pinch of cinnamon and some nutmeg. Set this sauce aside. Stir the icing sugar and a pinch of cinnamon into the whipped cream. QHeat the butter and remaining honey in a non-stick frying pan until melted. Add the pineapple and cook over a high heat for 8 minutes, turning

regularly until caramelised. Pour in the spiced lime sauce and bubble for a few seconds, tossing the pineapple to glaze in the sauce. QServe immediately, sprinkled with the remaining lime zest and accompanied by a dollop of the cinnamon whipped cream. QPER SERVING 159 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 31g, fat 3g, sat fat 1g, fibre 2g, sugar 30g, salt 0.1g


Spiced glazed pineapple with cinnamon whipped cream

You could also serve the pineapple with a mix of cream cheese and sweet, cinnamon-flavoured yoghurt.

100 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013






30 recipes to cut out and keep
























Quick veggie Use up leftovers


Feed a crowd


Under 10 minutes


Just 5 ingredients


Just 5 ingredients

Just 5 ingredients

chopped spring onions for 2 minutes. Stir into the salmon, mix well and shape into 4 patties. Heat 2 tbsp oil in the pan and cook the patties for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden. Cover with a lid and leave to rest. Serve 2 patties each with the chips and wasabi mayonnaise if you like.

cauliflower 5Crunchy cheese Serves 4 Q30 minutes QEASY

Asian prawn omelette Serv Se rves rv es 2 Q Q10 0 min nut utes e QEASY es R ci Re cipe p LUL pe U U GR GRIM IM MES QLi Q L ghtl Li gh htl t y be b at a 4 eggs eg gg gs s witth 2 ts tsp se sesa sa s ame e oil i, sa alt an and d pep eppe pe er. r. Tip p the mix int nto o a lliigh ghtl tlly gr grea ea ease ased se ed m di me dium dium m-ssizzed d pan a . Co Cook o unt ok ntiliill ju usst se sett th then e en sp pri rink nklle nk le ove er 10 100g 0g pee e le ed, coo ooke ke ed pr praw awns aw ns,, 50 ns 50g g b an bl anch ched ch ed d bea e nspr ns sprou prrou outs ts and 1 tb tbsp sp oys ste er sa s uc uce. Fold Fo ld d in ha half lff and n co oo ok fo forr a mi minu nute nu te morre on on eacch side si de de. e. S Se erv rve e im imme me m edi d at a el ely y wi with th h mor ore e off the e sauce aucce au e.

2Curry-crusted fish

Serves 4 Q15 minutes QEASY

QHeat the oven to 200°C. Whizz 3 slices of bread in a food processor until you have rough crumbs. Add 1 tbsp curry paste and whizz again until the crumbs are fairly fine and evenly coated in the curry paste. Put 4 white fish fillets (basa or sea bass) onto a baking sheet, season with salt and pepper, then grate the zest of half a lime on top. Gently press the curry paste crumbs on top of the fish, then bake until the fish is cooked through and the topping is golden, about 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

Rice noodles with 3 sundried tomatoes, parmesan and basil Serves 4 Q15 minutes QEASY Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE QBoil 250g rice noodles according

to pack instructions, then drain. Heat 2 tbsp oil, then fry 85g chopped sundried tomatoes and 3 chopped garlic cloves for 3 minutes. Toss the noodles with 25g parmesan shavings and a large handful of torn basil leaves. Season to taste. Scatter over some more cheese, basil leaves and serve.

and ginger 4Salmon fish cakes Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

Recipe LIZZIE HARRIS QHeat the oven to 200°C. Toss 1 large, peeled,sliced potato in a roasting tin with 1 tsp olive oil, salt and pepper to taste and bake for 20 minutes. Chop 275g skinless salmon fillets and place in a bowl with 2 tsp grated gingerr and seasoning. You could even use flaked tuna from a can instead of the salmon. Heat 1 tsp oil in a nonstick pan and soften 1/2 a bunch of

QHeat the grill to high. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Break 1 large cauliflowerr into florets, drop into the pan and boil for about 7 minutes, or until tender. Heat 350g cheese sauce in a pan. Mix 100g emmental cheese, 25g toasted, crushed hazelnuts and 50g fresh breadcrumbs in a bowl. Drain the cauliflower and place in the bottom of a shallow baking dish. Pour the warmed sauce over, then sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture. Put under the grill for 5 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbling and the breadcrumbs are crusty.

6Thai coconut chicken Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE QIn a shallow pan, stir-fry 2 tbsp Thai curry paste in 100ml coconut milk until fragrant. Add 300ml more coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Add 2 chopped, skinless chicken breasts, 100g green beans and simmer for 5 minutes. Add 100g cherry tomatoes and simmer for another 3 minutes. Season to taste and serve with steamed rice.

Th ha aii coc con onutt chick hick hi cken cken en

Under 10 mins Mozzarella and salami ciabatta


Serves 2 Q5 minutes QEASY

Under 10 minutes

Recipe LIZZIE HARRIS QCut 1 small ciabatta bread into 4 pieces and toast. Toss 1 sliced fennel bulb with 2 tsp olive oil and a few rocket leaves. Tear 75g mozzarella and 8 salami slices over the ciabatta, pile on the salad. Sprinkle over some salt and coarsely ground pepperr to taste. Serve with some lemon wedges for squeezing over.

Steamed fish with 8 lemon, ginger and chilli Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE QPut 100g trimmed pok choy leaves in the bottom of 2 small steamer trays. Sit 250g basa fish fillets on top, season and top with some lemon slices, 1 sliced red chilli and 1 tbsp shredded ginger. Season to taste. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and sit over a pan of boiling water. Steam for 8-10 minutes until the fish is opaque and cooked. Heat 1 tbsp rice vinegarr and 2 tbsp hoisin sauce in a small pan. Pour into a small bowl and serve with the fish.

in 9Minestrone minutes

Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY

Mozz Mo zz zar arel ella el la and d salamii ci ciab abat bat atta t ta

and 10Pesto parmesan spaghetti

curd and 12Lemon yoghurt fool

QBoil 500g spaghetti in a large pan according to packet instructions. Drain well, then return to the pan with 2-3 tbsp pesto and 25g shaved parmesan. Season to taste, toss well and tip into a serving bowl. Sprinkle with some more parmesan and serve immediately.

QPut 300g lemon curd and 500g Greek yoghurt into a bowl. Fold together for a rippled effect. Divide the mixture between 4 glasses and chill. Mix 200g frozen raspberries and 1 tbsp icing sugar together and gently crush with a fork. Spoon them, with their juices over the chilled mix and serve with shortbread.

Serves 6 Q10 minutes QEASY

salmon with 11Smoked Asian dressing Serves 4 Q10 minutes QEASY

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE QBring 1l hot vegetable stock to the boil with 400g chopped tomatoes. Then add 100g spaghetti and cook for 6 minutes or until done. A few minutes before the pasta is ready, add 350g chopped mixed vegetables (carrots, beans, broccoli, mushrooms) and bring back to the boil. Season to taste and simmer for 2 minutes until everything is cooked. Serve drizzled with 4 tbsp pesto and 1 tbsp olive oil, sprinkled with grated parmesan.

QMake the dressing by mixing 1 tbsp golden caster sugar with 1/2 chopped red chilli, the zest of 1 lime, 2 tbsp lime juice, 1/2 tbsp sesame oil and 1 tbsp light soy sauce. Arrange 200g smoked salmon on 4 plates. Toss 1 peeled, diced avocado, 1/2 a diced, deseeded cucumber and a handful of coriander, then pile on top. Spoon over the dressing and serve immediately.

Serves 4 Q5 minutes QEASY

Lemo Le mon curd and yoghurt fool

Feed a crowd oil. Fry briefly until browned all over and then push them to one side. Add 400g shredded red cabbage e to the other side and turn it over. Add 3 tbsp red wine vinegarr and 6 tsp light muscovado sugarr to the cabbage and season well, put on a lid for 5 minutes. Take the lid off, turn the sausages and stir the cabbage around. Serve with 3 tbsp mascarpone to stir through.

Spag Sp ag aghe ghe hett t i wi tt with th cra ab, c er ch e ry r tom omat attoe a o s an a d ba b si sill

Feed a crowd

chicken 13Quick chasseur

Serves 6 Q25 minutes QEASY Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE QHeat a shallow saucepan and sizzle 10 chopped, streaky bacon rashers for 2 minutes until starting to brown. Add 6 diced chicken breasts, then fry for 3-4 minutes until it has changed colour. Turn up the heat and throw in 400g quartered button mushrooms. Cook for a few minutes, stir in 2 tbsp plain flourr and cook until a paste forms. Tip in 600g chopped tomatoes, stir, then crumble in 2 beef stock cubes. Season to taste. Bubble everything for 10 minutes, splash in a dash of Worcestershire sauce, stir through some chopped parsley y and serve with potato mash or boiled rice.

Spaghetti with 14 crab, cherry tomatoes and basil Serves 6 Q25 minutes QEASY Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE QBoil 400g spaghetti in a pan of salted water following pack instructions, then drain. In the meantime, heat 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a frying pan. Add 4 chopped garlic cloves and a pinch of chilli flakes. Cook until pale golden, then add 104 BBC GoodFood

400g halved cherry tomatoes. Cook for 3 minutes more on a high heat until the tomatoes start to break down a little. Add 2 tbsp lemon juice and cook for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in 700g white crab meat from a tin to warm through. Mix the pasta in the warm pot with the sauce, 2 tsp lemon zest and 3 tsp capers, and toss a handful of chopped basil through. Serve immediately.

Spanish pepper and potato tortilla


and spinach 17Prawn ramen noodles Serves 6 Q20 minutes QEASY

Recipe LULU GRIMES QCook 750g egg noodles following the pack instructions. Drain and divide between 2 bowls. Boil 1.5l chicken stock, add 18 sliced ginger slices and 6 finely sliced spring onions, cook for 2 minutes then stir in 300g shredded spinach and cook for 2 minutes. Add 600g peeled, cooked prawns. Season to taste. Spoon over the noodles and add a dash of chilli oil and soy sauce.

Arnold 18Omelette Bennett Serves 6 Q25 minutes QEASY

Serves 6 Q25 minutes QEASY QBoil 600g sliced baby potatoes until just tender, about 4-5 minutes. Cook 3 red onions, cut into wedges, and 3 sliced red peppers in a deep frying pan in 3 tbsp olive oil until softened. Add the potatoes and cook for a minute. Season well, pour in 10 beaten eggs and stir in a handful of shredded basil. Cook until set on the bottom, then finish under a hot grill. Cut into wedges and serve with a salad.

and red 16Sausage cabbage one-pot Serves 6 Q30 minutes QEASY

Recipe LULU GRIMES QHeat a frying pan over a medium heat and add 24 small sausages and 6 tbsp

Recipe LULU GRIMES QPut 600g smoked salmon or mackerel and 750ml milk k in a pan and bring to a simmer. Lift it out and flake it, draining any milk back into the pan. Pour the milk into a jug. Melt 3 tbsp butterr in the pan and stir in 6 tbsp flour, whisk in the poaching milk and bubble until the sauce thickens. Stir in the fish and 3 tbsp parsley. Melt a little more butter in a large non-stick pan and add 12 beaten and seasoned eggs, leave to set a little Quic ck ch chic i ke ken n ch chas as sse seur eu urr and then draw in the sides of the omelette. Cook until the top is almost set then spoon over the salmon/mackerel mixture. Grill until the top browns. Serve with a green salad. APRIL 2013

Quick veggie 19

Serves 6 Q30 minutes QEASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE QCook 2 chopped onions, 1 grated carrot, 2 chopped celery sticks and 2 crushed garlic cloves in 2 tbsp olive oil, until softened. Add 2 tsp smoked paprika and cook for a minute. Add 800g chopped tomatoes, 2 tbsp tomato purée and 600ml vegetable stock. Season to taste and simmer for 15 minutes. Whizz in a blender. Add 4 tbsp double cream and whizz again. Serve with an extra swirl of cream and some chopped chives. Serve with cheese toasties.

Griddled halloumi with spiced couscous


Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

Gnocchi with lemon and chive pesto


Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY QPut 1 chopped garlic clove, a bunch each of chopped parsley and chives, 2 tbsp toasted, pine nuts, 2 tbsp grated parmesan and some lemon zest in a bowl, season well, then stir in 4 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp lemon juice. Boil 500g gnocchi in a pan of 013

Pappardelle with 22 lemon and sage mushrooms Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY QCook 150g pappardelle pasta following packet instructions. Soften 250g sliced button mushrooms in 25g butter, add 1 crushed garlic clove, cook for a few minutes then stir in a handful of sage leaves and 2 tbsp lemon juice. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 tbsp of cooking liquid, then toss everything together and season to taste.

Sm mok ky to toma mato to o sou o p

Spiced sweet 23 potato salad with crisp noodles Serves Qminutes QEASY Recipe SARAH COOK QHeat oven to 200°C. Toss 2 chunked sweet potatoes with 1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp oil and some seasoning. Spread over a baking tray, then roast for 20-25 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, cook 25g noodles according to pack instructions, then drain. Heat 1cm oil in

a wok until a piece of noodle dropped in begins to sizzle immediately. Fry the noodles in batches until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, then drain well on kitchen paper. When the potatoes are ready, whisk together 1 tsp oil with 3 tsp orange zest and 50ml orange juice, 2 tsp red wine vinegarr and a little seasoning. Tip the potatoes into a bowl with 2 handfuls spinach, 1 sliced avocado and 1/2 sliced red onion. Drizzle with the dressing and gently mix. Divide between 2 plates and crumble over the crispy noodles.

Sp Spic pic iced ed d swe eet e potato salad with crisp noodles

Red rice salad 24 with feta and pine nuts Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY QBoil 150g red rice until al dente, drain and rinse in cold water. Tip into a bowl and toss with 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and seasoning. Add 50g cubed feta, 1 tbsp toasted pine nuts, 2 shredded carrots, 1/2 a sliced red onion, and a bunch of chopped parsley. Toss again and spoon into bowls.

BBC GoodFood 105

Veggie quickies

QMix 175g couscous with 1/2 tsp each of ground cinnamon, cumin and corianderr in a bowl, pour over 300ml hot vegetable stock, then cover and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Heat a non-stick frying pan. Cut 250g halloumi into 6-8 slices and cook on each side for 2 minutes until brown. Mix 200g chopped and blanched broccoli and a handful of cherry tomatoes into couscous, fork in 1 tsp lemon juice, 1 tbsp olive oil and some chopped coriander. Season to taste. Pile onto plates and top with the griddled halloumi.

salted boiling water, then drain well. Tip into a serving bowl and toss through the pesto. Serve with some grated parmesan.


Smoky tomato soup

Use up leftovers Garlicky bean salad with chorizo

Spicy egg wraps



Leftover: Chorizo from a 350g pack QRinse and drain 400g cannellini beans, then pat dry with kitchen paper. Mix 1 small, sliced red onion with 2 tbsp red wine vinegar and leave for 5 minutes to soak. Mix 140g sliced button mushrooms, 1 tbsp finely chopped garlic c and a handful of parsley y into the beans, then add the onions and vinegar, 3 tbsp olive oil and seasoning. Mix well. Arrange overlapping slices of 100g chorizo o on 2 plates and spoon the salad in the centre. Serve with crusty bread.

Leftover: Chapatti QMix 1 shredded lettuce leaf, 2 chopped and deseeded tomatoes, some chopped and deseeded cucumber, a bunch of chopped coriander, and a pinch of chilli powder in a bowl. Put a chapatti in a non-stick frying pan over moderate heat until toasted on the underside. Meanwhile, beat 1 egg with a pinch of chilli powder, salt and pepper. Turn the chapatti over and pour the egg over the surface, spreading it to the edges. When the egg has set around the edges, flip it over and cook the egg. Invert onto a serving plate. Spread half the salad down the centre of the chapatti and drizzle with some yoghurt. Roll it up and serve. Make a second wrap in the same way.

Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY

26Spicy chicken rice Serves 2 Q15 minutes


Leftover: Boiled rice QChop 200g cooked spicy chicken fillets into bite-size pieces and mix with 250g boiled rice, 50g chopped and deseeded cucumberr and 2 coarsely grated carrots. Mix 10g mint leaves with 150ml yoghurt, 1 tsp honey, a pinch of chilli powderr and seasoning. Stir into the rice and sprinkle with some more mint.

Spinach tortilla wedges


Serves 2 Q20 minutes


Beef and 29 coriander noodle soup Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY Recipe LULU GRIMES Leftover: Grilled steak

Garlicky bea ean n salad with h cho h rriizo zo

B ke Ba ked d ca camemb memb m er ertt wi with th gar arliic to toas asts ts

QCook 140g dried wheat noodles following pack instructions. In the meantime, heat 700ml beef stock, then add 2 tbsp grated ginger, 1 finely sliced hot red chilli, 3 tbsp soy sauce, 2 tbsp rice or white wine vinegar, 2 finely sliced spring onions and pepper. When boiling, add 1 thinly sliced sirloin steak (fat removed) and cook for 10 minutes. Add the noodles and some chopped coriander. Divide between 2 bowls and serve

camembert 30Baked with garlic toasts Serves 8 Q20 minutes QEASY

Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

Use up leftovers

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Leftover: Eggs QCook 1 sliced onion in 1 tbsp olive oil until soft. Add 100g chopped spinach and cook until wilted. Boil 1 large sliced potato in salted water until tender. Drain well. Whisk 4 eggs and season well, then stir in the potato, spinach and eggs. Heat a non-stick frying pan with 1 tsp oil. Tip in the egg mix and cook until set. Tip onto a plate then flip the uncooked side down. Cook until just set. Cool and cut into wedges.

Recipe LULU GRIMES Leftover: Camembert and baguette QTo make the toasts, toast 8 slices of baguette bread on both sides then rub with 1 crushed garlic clove and drizzle with some olive oil. Cut in half lengthways. Heat the oven to 200°C. Put 500g camembert cheese in a snug ovenproof dish. Slash the tops a few times with a sharp knife, drizzle with 2 tbsp dry white wine and sprinkle over 2 tbsp thyme. Cover with foil and bake for 10 minutes. Drizzle with 2 tbsp honey y and serve.

eat out

Pizzerias reviewed, plus Pesto Pesto's Seafood Broth to try at home IN THIS ISSUE

7Pizzerias on trial, p 110 7Pro vs Punter at Mumbai's Mi Maratha, p 118 7Off the eaten track at Mumbai's Hotel Deluxe, p 120 7Pesto Pesto's Seafood Broth, p 123

Pizzeria Rossa's Marinara pizza, p 114

eat out restaurant spy

On trial

Pizzerias Say huzzah for pizza, the new culinary star of the eat-out world. We size up six hotspots that serve a mean pie

HOW WE DID IT Although our initiation to these beloved pies came by way of delivery chains, pizzas are currently getting a haute makeover, becoming something of a gourmet art form. There is a wider choice of crusts and a greater variety of exotic toppings available to the pizza fiend now than ever before. Our selection includes standalone pizzerias and restaurants with a substantial variety of pizzas on their menus. From upmarket pizzerias that specialise in a particular kind of pizza to the casual hangout next door, this list takes into consideration a wide range of tastes and budgets.

Wood-fired pizza at Pizza Metro Pizza


If you were to judge London-based restaurant Pizza Metro Pizza’s first Mumbai outpost by its façade alone, you could quite easily mistake it for a ubiquitous pizza delivery chain. There’s little about the dull exterior and cartoony signage that catches your eye, especially against the busy backdrop of Ambedkar Road in Bandra. But once inside, it’s hard not to be charmed by the rustic décor, marked by copper utensils hanging on the walls, a cheery mural of an Italian market scene that occupies an entire wall and the enormous mosaic-tiled wood-fired oven that is the centrepiece of the open kitchen. Complimented by the warm and friendly service, the restaurant has the perfect vibe for a relaxed, informal meal. For pie haters, there’s a sizable selection of salads, antipasti, pastas and meat-heavy mains. But it would be a mistake to pass on the pizza, with nearly 25 varieties available on the menu.

QTHE PIZZAS A cursory glance at the menu reveals that it leans overwhelmingly in favour

of pork and beef-based toppings so if you are a chicken fiend, you are likely to be sorely disappointed. Pizza Metro Pizza specialises in hand-rolled Neapolitan or Naples-style pizzas marked by a thick, raised outer crust and a thin centre. While Neapolitan pies are generally pliant enough to be folded, we find that hot-off-theoven, Pizza Metro Pizza’s pies are too fragile at the centre to bear the weight of their toppings. It is easiest to eat them with fork and knife, which in our opinion defeats the purpose of pizza. We order a trio of pizzas and since we are expecting round, 12-inch pizzas, we are a trifle overwhelmed when they come to our table as part of one long rectangular pie with 12 slices. The Diavola pizza topped with flavourful discs of salty salami, mushrooms, basil and mozzarella, benefits from the incredible freshness of the tart tomato sauce but is unevenly seasoned. My slice is strewn with a few too many chilli flakes. In theory, the Cicciobomba pizza sounds like a meat fest with toppings of ham, salami, beef meatballs and sausages, apart from mushrooms, black olives and mozzarella. The meatballs are tender and crumbly, and the pizza is uplifted by the excellent quality of the salami. But we feel that a little more

Photograph VINIT BHATT

eat out restaurant spy

QBESTSELLERS Cicciobomba, Diavola, Proscuitto e Funghi

QPROVENANCE Most of the ingredients, including the flour, tomatoes, olives, olive oil and meats, are imported from Italy. A local

cheese vendor who has had extensive training in cheese making from Italy supplies the cheeses. The other vegetables are procured locally.

QWHAT TO DRINK A small selection of Italian wines is on offer in addition to Kingfisher beer, a few whiskies, single malts and liqueurs. If you are visiting solely for the pizza, a no-fuss fresh lime soda might make the best accompaniment.

QINSIDER TIP The restaurant’s signature metre and half metre-long pizzas are a fun, if slightly gimmicky way to sample a variety of flavours especially if you are in a large group. Each metre-long

Clockwise from below: The classic Margherita at Pizza Metro Pizza; Diavola pizza at Di Napoli; Veggie pizza at Di Napoli topped with capsicum, sauteed mushrooms, San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh basil, parmesan and stringy mozzarella

pizza can include four different flavour combinations – in other words, it’s four pizzas in one.

QDETAILS Jharna Apartments, Ambedkar Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 65993334. Timings: Tuesday-Sunday 12 pm – 3 pm, 6 pm – 11.30 pm. Pizzas ` 595 onwards; desserts ` 395 onwards.

Quality: 7/10 Choice: 8/10 Provenance: 6/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Value: 6.5/10 Total: 35.5/50 — Vidya Balachander

Photograph VINIT BHATT

generosity with the meaty toppings would pack in a lot more flavour. Of the three, the vegetarian Portobello pizza without tomato sauce, topped with mixed mushrooms, rocket and a fat layer of grana padano cheese is the most assertive in flavour, with truffle oil lending its distinct aroma to this decidedly grown-up combination of toppings.

eat out restaurant spy



Tiramisu) reads like a dream with Pizza Alla Nutella as one of the central attractions. But only order it if you can stomach an entire 12-inch chocolate binge. The pizza’s rim and base is stuffed with Nutella, which when baked is a gooey but delicious mess of hazelnut, chocolate and toasted almond excess.

Unlike its frail and thin-crusted counterparts, the hearty Neapolitan pizza is not to be taken lightly. Like wine and cheese, it comes with its own guidelines for ingredient provenance and baking methods specified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. Mumbai’s Di Napoli might not be a certified pizzeria but attempts to take these guidelines seriously. The Neapolitan pies are among the best we’ve ever eaten in the city —lightly charred bases, sparingly topped and easily foldable. Owner Jai Thakur has an evangelical air about him as he waxes eloquent about the imported ingredients and the Italian-made, three tonne, dome-shaped oven that is used to make the pizzas. In contrast to the rustic pizzas though, the restaurant has puzzlingly stark red and grey interiors reminiscent of a pizza chain.

QBESTSELLERS Diavola, Salame Piccante, Funghi with White Truffle Oil, Pizza Alla Nutella

QPROVENANCE Barring a few herbs and poultry, almost every ingredient is imported from Italy. The plum San Marzano tomatoes, olive oil and even the 00 standard Italian flour, whose gluten content contributes to the crust’s puffy rim, are imported.

QWHAT TO DRINK The wine selection leans in favour of new-world wines from South Africa, Argentina, Chile and India rather than Italian. The non-alcoholic drinks include coolers, smoothies and fresh juices. Our pleasantly tart Lemongrass Sling trumps the packaged guava juice in our Spiced Guava cooler.

QTHE PIZZAS We are told that the pizzas take less than two minutes to make but that’s a more realistic estimate of the time taken to devour the Diavola. The still bubbling and almost soupy centre of lightly seasoned San Marzano tomatoes, fat-speckled pepperoni, just melted fresh mozzarella, parmesan and basil on a slightly charred and bloated rim is perfection. The pizza without tomato sauce, Funghi with White Truffle Oil, comes highly recommended but is a bit of a let down after the Diavola. The intense earthiness of the shiitake mushroom overpowers the subtlety of the truffle oil. Sparingly topped with fresh mozzarella, parmesan and arugula, this pizza would fare better with more porcini. Perhaps the Funghi pizza led us to it, but we commit culinary blasphemy of sorts with our next order. Their signature Fried then Baked Pizza Margherita is so wrong, it’s surprisingly good. The centre isn’t as soupy as a baked Neapolitan pie but the flavours are all there – slightly APRIL 2013

QINSIDER TIP If you would like to get a feel for how your pizza is made, pop over to the show kitchen after you’ve placed your order. Hang around for a minute after the pizzaiolo slides the pie into the oven and swoop in just when it’s time to elevate the pizza to the ceiling of the oven, which gives the pie its distinct char.

QDETAILS Dalamal Towers, Free Press Journal Marg, near MLA Hostel, behind Mittal Towers, Nariman Point, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 43473200. Timings: Daily 11 am – 11 pm. Pizzas ` 365 onwards, desserts ` 110 onwards. tart tomatoes drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, stringy bits of melted, fresh mozzarella di buffala and roughly torn basil leaves. If a charred crust isn’t for you, this pie with its fried bread base will hit the spot. The dessert menu (minus the standard issue

Quality: 9/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Provenance: 7/10 Choice: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 40/50 — Kainaz Contractor BBC GoodFood 113



Pizzeria Rossa attempts to fill the gap between pocket-friendly multinational pizza chains and upmarket Italian restaurants in the capital. It aims to provide authentic pies at affordable prices in a casual setting. Priding itself on serving genuine fare, this cosy pizzeria in the buzzing Hauz Khas Village boasts an Italian wood-fired oven. The 25 pizza options include predictable favourites like marinara, margherita and quattro formaggio along with some unusual combinations such as Chicken, Cranberry and Brie; French Fries; Chorizo and Boursin and Sweet Corn Salad Pizzas.   The informal ambience is reminiscent of a tavern with wooden furniture, with the monotony of brown broken by an olive green chair at every table. The customised lights are made of wine bottles. In terms of décor and food, Pizzeria Rossa strikes the perfect balance between casual comfort and gourmet elegance.

QBESTSELLERS Provencal, Rossa Special French Fries Pizza, Chorizo and Boursin



Specialising in the Roman-style thin crust, Pizzeria Rossa offers it in regular as well as whole-wheat options. The latter tastes fantastic so the health conscious will not feel like they’re compromising on taste. We start off with the Rosso Special French Fries Pizza. As the name suggests, this is a double cheese mozzarella pizza topped with French fries. Although it sounds sinful, it is just as popular with grown ups as it is with kids. Next comes the Piri Piri Chicken Pizza on a whole-wheat base. Succulent pieces of chicken are marinated in a spicy, homemade piri piri sauce. The spicy mayo drizzled on the pizza makes it even hotter, yet it is lip-smacking good. The Capricciosa is packed with flavour. With generous toppings of good quality salami, pepperoni and prosciutto and sprinkled with black olives, it hits the spot for pork lovers. The other pizzas with pork toppings are also well executed and flavourful. The Chorizo and Boursin pizza is a textural delight punctuated by chunks of savoury chorizo and cool, smooth blobs of the French Boursin cheese. If you are not a pork lover, the Prawn and Rocket pizza is an unconventional choice, with the rocket leaves adding a unique twist of peppery flavour.

The homemade tomato sauce is made with canned Italian tomatoes along with Indian tomatoes. All the cold cuts and cheeses are imported but procured locally.

QWHAT TO DRINK Wash down the pizzas with wholesome shakes or any of the modest selection of beers. The pizzeria also has an extensive wine and whiskey list and a selection of cocktails.


Clockwise from top: Pizzeria Rossa’s Marinara pizza; the al fresco seating at Mama’s Pizzeria; the Pepperoni pizza is one of the bestsellers at Mama’s Pizzeria; Mama Pizzeria’s New Yorker pizza

Although it’s not on the menu yet, try the Breakfast Pizza. Available through the day, it comes with generous toppings of sausage, bacon and egg. You can also have pizzas from Pizzeria Rosso home delivered thanks to Rosso ASAP, the delivery service that is all set to start this month.

QDETAILS Pizzeria Rossa, 26 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 40587275. Timings: Daily 12 pm - 1 am. Pizzas ` 375 onwards; desserts ` 245 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Choice: 8/10 Provenance: 7/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Value: 8.5/10 Total: 38.5/50 — Shibani Bawa

eat out restaurant spy



Tucked away in a leafy lane in Indiranagar, at an arm’s distance from the busy main road and yet quite removed from the noise, Mama’s Pizzeria is one of those cosy, unpretentious eateries that are ideal for an unfussy meal or an evening coffee with friends. There are no frills and the pizzeria has all of four tables. One wall has glossy, blown up images of cheese and ice cream, while the other is full of groupings of framed colour photographs of Italy, including one of the iconic Vespa. A floor-toceiling white cupboard has a few pithy lines about the pizza. Service is friendly but a bit on the slower side. Then again, the place is comfortable enough, so it does not hurt to chitchat and take it easy till the food arrives. There’s also soothing white noise — a music score or a local FM station — to keep you company. The menu is not extensive. There is a choice of five vegetarian and four non-vegetarian pizzas in two sizes; all the pizzas have a thin crust. However, there’s a fairly long list of toppings that can be added on. There’s also a selection of sandwiches, subs, salads and pastas. Of these the Mediterranean Feta Salad is incredibly fresh. The lettuce is crunchy, the cheese pleasantly robust and the vegetables are an absolute delight. The Pasta Arabiatta is a crowd pleaser but the chicken breast and cheese sandwich is a bit stodgy.

QTHE PIZZAS All three pizzas we order do justice to the pizzeria’s speciality, the thin crust, which is uniformly crisp. They come to the table with the cheese still gently bubbling. The Classic Margherita is simple and wholesome with the sauce providing that all-important kick when it lands on the palate. There is just the right amount of shredded basil strips – we prefer our basil leaves APRIL 2013

whole, but the strips pass muster by being quite fresh. In contrast, the Classic Veggie with toppings of mushrooms, white onions, bell peppers, black olives and jalapeños is a colourful mélange of flavours and textures. The toppings combine very well with the sauce, which the menu says is a ‘secret’. The third pizza, Mama’s Fully Loaded, justifies the name and is a meat lover’s delight. It comes packed with pepperoni, sliced ham, sausages, sliced onion rings and mozzarella. It is full of complex textures, but could do with a bit more flavour. Generous shakes from the plump bottles of chilli flakes and oregano on the table are required to adequately bridge the gap.

QBESTSELLERS Classic Veggie, Mama’s Fully Loaded, BBQ Chicken

QPROVENANCE Most of the ingredients are sourced locally except for a few like feta cheese, chorizo, parma ham, pork sausages etc, which are imported.

QWHAT TO DRINK There isn’t much by way of variety, with only aerated beverages and juices to pair with the pizzas. If you are not a fan or either of these, then go with water. Coffee and tea are also available.

QINSIDER TIP Almost every pizza on the menu comes in a ‘take-n-bake’ version. It comes fully assembled and all you need to do is to bake it at home.

QDETAILS Mama’s Pizzeria, 2041, 17th Main, 1st Cross, HAL Second Stage, Indiranagar, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 25200067. Timings: Daily 11 am 9.30 pm. Pizzas ` 100 onwards.

Quality: 6/10 Choice: 5/10 Provenance: 6/10 Atmophere: 5/10 Value: 8.5/10 Total: 30.5/50 — Anita Rao-Kashi

BBC GoodFood 115

style crust, which is extremely thin and crispy, and not too popular; newly introduced hand-tossed pizzas with rustic flavours and whole wheat pizzas with added nutrients such as cracked and roasted oats. A gluten-free pizza is also in the works.

QBESTSELLERS Farmers Favourite Veggie, Blue Mushroom, BBQ Chicken


choice of pastas, panini sandwiches, soups and starters.



It has been around for years, but Amici, with branches in Defence Colony, Vasant Kunj, Hauz Khas and Saket, continues to stand tall for the authenticity of its super fresh, thin crust pizzas. The original Khan Market branch is filled to capacity even on a wet Sunday afternoon. We are quickly gathered into the warm spill of intimate bonhomie spread over two spacious floors. A longish, two-tiered counter features jars of cookies and confectionery; pictures hang on the walls and from the open kitchen wafts the fragrance of pizzas in the oven. The smiling waiter promptly presents us with the menu, which features over 40 types of pizza, apart from an elaborate 116 BBC GoodFood

Clockwise from top: Amici’s Caprese pizza; a pizza straight out of the woodfired oven at Fellini; the fussfree seating at Fellini; Fellini’s vegetarian Ortolana pizza and the all time favourite Pepperoni pizza; Amici’s cosy interiors

Amici’s wood-fired ovens are imported from Italy. The mushrooms are sourced from a dedicated vendor in Shimla. The pizzas are made using strong, 00 Napoli flour. Tomatoes are homegrown and all the branches of the chain receive fresh stocks from the central kitchen in Okhla daily. All their imported Italian cheeses are made using Italian or Canadian cow milk, while the mozzarella is made from buffalo milk. The poultry, meats and vegetables are sourced from local, reputed vendors.



All of Amici’s pizzas are to be eaten hot off the oven, within five to seven minutes, or they begin wilting under the weight of their toppings. So we quickly tuck into our spicy Guapo’s Mexican pizza, which is considerably hotter than our initial choice of Capricciosa, which is topped with Italian ham, artichokes, black olives, tomatoes, cheese and jalapeños. Guapo’s Mexican Pizza is crisp and chewy, topped with jalapeño, mozzarella, tomato and onion and liberally doused with Mexican spices. The onions are a bit over the top for our taste. The Farmers Favourite Veggie pizza comes mounted with a slew of farm fresh vegetables, including baby corn, green capsicum, mushrooms, black olives, sliced onions and jalapenos. While the traditional Neapolitan pizza is thicker along the outer rim and thin in the centre, the signature, wood-fired Amici Margherita is evenly hand-rolled with a thin crust. Crisp, flavourful and boasting the perfect combination of cheese and tomato, this one hits the bull’s eye. Amici also offers many spins on the pizza including the Roman-

At the Khan Market outlet, only the usual non-alcoholic drinks are available, including fresh juices, lemon and mint soda. The ginger fizz we order is flat. But plans are afoot to introduce wines and beers, which pair particular well with pizzas and are already served at the Defence Colony outpost.

QINSIDER TIP Explore the Chef’s Specials, which serve as a medium of experimentation. Try the recently introduced handtossed pizzas, including the aromatic Bianca (topped with mascarpone, parma ham and rocket) or the handtossed pizza topped with roast lamb and rosemary.

QDETAILS 47, Middle Lane, Khan Market. Timings: Daily 11 am - 11 pm. Pizzas ` 290 onwards; drinks ` 65 onwards; desserts ` 50 onwards.

Quality: 9/10 Choice: 9/10 Provenance: 9/10 Atmosphere: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 44/50 — Ranee Sahaney APRIL 2013

eat out restaurant spy



This non-descript pizzeria is not easy to spot.You have to walk down the picturesque flea market in Arambol, crowded and choc-a-bloc with eateries, and just before you reach the beachfront, look out for the sign that proclaims you have reached “the best pizzeria in Goa”. This is Fellini – originally started by an Italian in 1995, it is a rustic, old-fashioned, one-storied eatery with no pretensions of being a fine dining restaurant.You first enter a passage where the firewood for the oven is stacked in one corner. The pizzeria chefs in black vests work in an open nook, with order tickets hanging on clothes pegs. The tables are covered with chequered tablecloths, and the restaurant is lit with cane lampshades suspended from the ceiling, which cast blue and yellow shadows over the tables and the worn plastic chairs. This eatery has a bohemian ambience symbolic of the ‘60s, with many of the diners reflecting that ethos as well.

Photographs ASLESH KAMAT

QTHE PIZZAS The menu has a variety of salads, pastas, seafood and meat mains, but the focus is squarely on the 12inch pizza. There are more than 20 varieties of pizza on the menu, which fall into three categories: regular, thin-crust pizzas with a variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian toppings; calzones or folded pizzas and purely non-vegetarian pizzas, which include the restaurant’s old favourites. There are just four varieties of fillings available for the calzones. I decide to try Ortolana, a vegetarian special, the Calzone Classicio and the all time favourite Pepperoni Pizza, considered one of Fellini’s signature pizzas. The Ortolana is a pure delight. Thinly sliced, sautéed APRIL 2013

green eggplant, green zucchini and bell peppers are laid out on a generous bed of freshly made tomato sauce and topped with gooey strings of mozzarella cheese. The wholesome vegetables lend a slight crunch to this delectable creation, which definitely comes recommended. The calzone is balanced with fresh tomato, mozzarella and only a faint flavour of ham, so that no one flavour overwhelms the pizza. However, while the flavour of the crust and the sauce in the Pepperoni Pizza are spot on, the limited amount of pepperoni itself is disappointing.

QBESTSELLERS Pizza Ortolana, Calzone Classico

QPROVENANCE The ingredients for the pizza crust and the tomato sauce are locally procured, as are the chicken and some of the meats. Most of the vegetables, the ham, pepperoni and cheese are imported.

QWHAT TO DRINK Indian-made foreign liquors, wines and soft drinks are on the menu. A glass of Grover Cabernet Shiraz is a good accompaniment to the pizzas.

QINSIDER TIP The thin crust pizzas are our pick from the menu, but some of them may need to be enhanced with seasoning since foreigners make up a majority of the clientele. Make sure you ask for oregano and chilli flakes since they are not placed on tables. A refrigerated cabinet at the entrance showcases the outsourced desserts, of which the Lemon Crostini is the only one worth ordering.

QDETAILS Fellini Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria, Arambol Beach, Pernem, Goa. Tel: +91 9764893896. Timings: Daily 6.30 pm - 11 pm. Pizzas ` 280 onwards; desserts ` 70 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Choice: 7/10 Provenance: 7/10 Atmosphere: 6/10 Value: 8.5/10 Total: 36.5/50 — Odette Mascarenhas BBC GoodFood 117

vs Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? BBC Good Food reader Delnavaz Mehta and journalist and food writer Vikram Doctor review Mi Maratha in Mumbai and come away with different reviews THE RESTAURANT

MI MARATHA Located in the busy and chaotic district of Lower Parel, eight-month-old Mi Maratha provides a taste of traditional, home-style Konkani fare and is a favourite among hungry office goers from the neighbourhood. The unassuming menu features classic delicacies such as Bharleli Vangi, Tisrya Masala, Ambat Tikhat, Chicken Kolhapuri, a piquant sol kadi, and ample choice of generously portioned thaat (or thalis) – from vegetarian, chicken and mutton thalis, to fish or prawn-based ones. QMi Maratha, GK Marg, next to Peninsula Corporate Park, Lower Parel, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 24930345. Daily 11 am – 3.30 pm, 7 pm – 11 pm. Average spend for two: ` 600 Pushy table turning? No Regular water offered? Yes Veggie options? Limited

118 BBC GoodFood


Vikram Doctor is a journalist and food writer based in Mumbai. He writes about a broad range of issues for the Economic Times. On his blog, On My Plate, Doctor puts the spotlight on both wellloved and little known ingredients used in cooking and their roots in culinary history.


Delnavaz Mehta is a marketing professional with Unilever. By her own description, she is an explorer, traveller, thinker and food lover.



Most Konkani restaurants in Mumbai are either canteen-level basic in their design and décor (shared benches, steel plates, no air-conditioning) or oppressively kitschy (dim lighting, bad folk art murals and waiters with pagadis on their heads). Mi Maratha is happily neither, but just simple yet comfortable. It is quiet, has just a few tables and is also airconditioned.

Efficient and friendly. Having few tables should mean that service is prompt and not stretched, and it is quick and pleasant here. You are also greeted with a smile, which is rare in restaurants from this region, where the business seems a burden rather than something you like doing and want to do well.

Tucked away in a corner of a busy Lower Parel street, the restaurant is a little challenging to locate. At first glance, it is not too impressive and comes across as a quaint little eatery. The interiors are simple yet tasteful, giving it a homely feel, which completes the experience of eating home-style food. What’s missing though, is some lively music. The silence in the restaurant can make it feel rather uncomfortable and incomplete.

The service is good with genuinely helpful staff. However, some of our orders get mixed up despite only two of the tables being occupied.

APRIL 2013

Bangda Ambat Tikhat

F sh Fi thali

Chic Chic Ch ick ken Ko ke Kolhap lh hapur ap a pur ui




Outstanding. Konkani restaurants offer a limited thali, which can be a relief after the super-abundance of Gujarati thalis, but it does mean that what’s on offer needs to be really good. Often it isn’t. Chicken can be too spicy, sprouted dal or usall can be watery and flavourless, fish can be over fried to an oily, crispy abomination and the kokum drink that is an essential part of the thali can be thin and acidic. Here everything is perfect, made even better by a few excellent additions to the regular thali. Chicken curry comes with an extra saucer of chicken kheema and fish is accompanied by a tasty kismur, a relish made of small, dried prawns. We order mackerel (or bangda), which can often be too bony, but here it is plump and perfectly fried so the semolina coating is crisp, but the fish is still juicy. The kokum is creamy and positively singing with exuberant garlic flavour. Instead of chappatis, we ask for bhakri, the delicious, thick rice rotis that Konkani restaurants usually offer, but generally are reluctant to go to the extra trouble of making. Here, the owner himself suggests we opt for bhakris. The only suggestion to give would be that a restaurant serving such authentic, home-style food should offer more than the restaurant staple fish varieties of pomfret, surmaii and rawas. How about lep, the delicious local sole, or chonak, the Goan favourite that is much favoured abroad as barramundi? But we count it as a plus that among the non-fish options is bheja (brains).

Really excellent. Simple food like this can be the hardest to get right, but when you do, as Mi Maratha does, it is bliss. A restaurant totally worth returning to again and again.

Doctor’s meal for two including two thalis was ` 400, inclusive of taxes.

The menu features simple food that you are likely to find in a Maharashtrian home. Although the menu is quite expansive and includes a variety of delicacies, it is limited by the fact that quite a few of the dishes are dependent on the catch of the day or on good-quality meats. For instance, neither the Khekda (crab) Masala nor the Bheja Masala is available when we visit. So we start with the Surmai Fry instead. The surmaii is coated with a masala batter and crisped to perfection but the fish itself is very dry and chewy. Not too happy with this dish, we order the Chicken Sukha. The small, bite-sized chicken pieces in a spicy coriander-laced gravy lift our spirits. The Pomfret and Jhinga (prawn) thalis arrive next, with six generous bowls of fried prawns or a whole pomfret, ambat tikhat or sweet and sour fish curry, sol kadi, sukhat koshimbir (or crunchy, dried baby prawns), rice and bhakris. The soft flesh and crisp, batter-fried skin make the pomfret an instant hit. The curry is spicy and tangy, and best chased down with the sol kadi. The bhakris are soft and fluffy, and when dipped into the curry, make for a winning combination. The bowl of flaky and crunchy sukhat koshimbir is an absolute delight. The traditional sweets don’t entice us so we complete the meal with a glass of masala chaas, which is full of coriander and ginger.

In my opinion, Mi Maratha is definitely a go-to destination for office goers but not the first choice for family dinners. Although there are a few hits and misses, with some amendments the restaurant can definitely be turned around. I finish my meal feeling fulfilled but not blown away.


FOOD: 9/10 ATMOPSHERE: 8/ 10 SERVICE: 8/10 TOTAL: 25/30 GO AGAIN? Tomorrow!

Delnavaz’s meal for two including two appetisers and two thalis was ` 765, inclusive of taxes.

FOOD 6/10 ATMOSPHERE 6/10 SERVICE 5.5/10 TOTAL: 17.5/30 GO AGAIN? Maybe, to try other seafood.

Want to review a restaurant? For a chance to become Good Food’s next punter, email a 200-word review of any restaurant you’ve visited, with the heading ‘Pro vs Punter’, to [email protected] with your contact details. You could be the lucky one! BBC GoodFood 119

A taste of Kerala

Hotel Deluxe Few places in Mumbai can claim to offer a truly authentic taste of Kerala like Deluxe, a no-frills joint in the heart of the maximum city’s Fort district Words KALYAN KARMAKAR Photographs BAJIRAO PAWAR


ort was once the hub of Mumbai, the nucleus of the city, the commercial district and the economic powerhouse of the nation. Today, it lives as much in the past as in the present. New commercial hubs have cropped up all over Mumbai and Fort is a shadow of its former glory. That’s not the end of this story though. A walk through the historic district is like travelling in time. The surroundings tell the tale of 120 BBC GoodFood

India’s transition from British rule to Independence. Temples, mosques, churches and synagogues capture the diversity that lies at the heart of Mumbai. So do the restaurants. The lanes of Fort are dotted with restaurants, many more than half-a-century old. These are the places that have fuelled the worker bees of Mumbai. Since almost every community that worked in Fort had their favourite pit stops, you will find Gomantak, Mangalorean, Gujarati,

Irani, Udipi, Malvani and Malayali joints here. However, south Indian restaurants from across the four states dominate the landscape. South Indians formed a large part of the workforce in newly independent India and several eateries came up to sustain them. Street lore has it that the chief minister of Kerala visited Fort in the 1960s and inaugurated a restaurant called Lalit. Today, you will find two or three restaurants bearing the same name in this area.You will also come APRIL 2013

eat out off the eaten track across a restaurant called The Taste of Kerala, a vegetarian, south Indian thali lunch home called Gopalashram and the grandly named Hotel Deluxe. According to Chandrahas, a waiter who has worked at the restaurant for more than a decade, Deluxe has been around for a long time. “About 50 years,” he hazards a guess and breaks into a smile, “from the time when gang lords like Haji Mastan and Mudaliar ruled the streets of Mumbai”. Deluxe was started by Hussein Haji, the father of the current owners Asraf and Naseer, who is said to have hailed from Kasargod in Kerala. It started as a hole-in-the-wall joint in the same place where the restaurant stands today. Old-timers who love their meat swear by the beef fry and parotta at this newly refurbished restaurant. A narrow staircase takes you to the first floor, which also includes an air-conditioned section. Go for the food, not the frills. The ambience may be nothing to write home about, but the service is warm and friendly. As the waiters get to know you, they will welcome you with a smile and seat you as soon as possible. When you become a regular, they might slip you a complimentary glass of piping hot rasam and even the occasional piece of fried fish. Malayalam is the dominant language of conversations, which tells you that this is where patrons from the state come for their fix of home food. It is also the best indicator of the authenticity of the dishes. If there were one compelling reason for you to visit Deluxe, it would be the famous sadhya. A sadhya (which means banquet in Malayalam) is an elaborate vegetarian meal from Kerala traditionally served on a banana leaf. Some credit Top 5 dishes to try it to the Hindu Brahmin Namboodiri or Nair at Hotel Deluxe communities but it is also 7 Parotta served in Deluxe, a Muslim7 Kappa biryani owned restaurant. 7 Prawns roast Tthe waitstaff are happy 7 Karimeen tawa fry to explain the dishes to you in Hindi. In classic Indian 7 Beef masala tradition, the best way to APRIL 2013

Hotel Deluxe has mastered the art of perfectly fried fish

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eat out off the eaten track

The facade of the refurbished restaurant enjoy the sadhya is to eat with your hands. There is a sense of ceremony attached to the meal. It starts with a fair bit of fanfare, with an array of pickles and condiments served on the banana leaf. On offer is a sour mango pickle, tart inji-puli or ginger and tamarind

A customer enjoys the sadhya with gourds and flavoured with coconut milk, yoghurt and ginger. While these make up the supporting cast, rice is at the heart of the sadhya. Drop by for an early lunch and you might be able to savour the fluffy red rice that Malayalis love. This

“If there were one compelling reason to visit Deluxe, it would be the famous sadhya. A sadhya (which means banquet in Malayalam) is an elaborate veggie meal traditionally served on a banana leaf” pickle and a hot chilli one.You also get some salt and crunchy pappadam as accompaniments. A number of delectable side dishes follow. They are all vegetarian, subtly flavoured and distinct from each other. There is the Kerala classic avial, a hearty vegetable stew made with drumsticks and other vegetables flavoured with grated coconut and distinguished by the use of coconut oil. The other dishes include kichaadi, a sort of sweet chutney made with pineapple or raw mango; kaalan, a traditional curry made with yam or raw plantain in a yoghurt and coconut gravy; and olan, usually made 122 BBC GoodFood

runs out quickly as the day progresses. Hot and spicy rasam and lentil-based sambar are served as accompaniments. It is said that each region of South India has its own unique version of sambar. The one at Deluxe is not sweet and full of vegetables like okra and drumsticks. To finish, you get a little cup of payasam or sweet rice or semolina pudding. If the regular sadhya sounds like too much food, there’s more on offer during Onam or the harvest festival. The festive spread includes 25 dishes, and as the waiters will proudly tell you, it is prepared by special cooks.

The seafood and meat specialities are must tries

WHAT WE LIKE The sadhya is a classic showcase of nuanced vegetarian cooking. Every side dish is distinct from the other, yet they are all perfectly calibrated to come together on the palate. We particularly like the sweet, tart and spicy pineapple kichaadi, which puts the sweet fruit in an entirely new savoury context.

The fare at Deluxe isn’t limited to vegetarian specialities – in fact, this is just the place to try a variety of meat and seafood prepared in traditional Kerala style. Beef is not mentioned on the menu, but the dry beef masala mopped up with parotta is a must try. If you are lucky, you might also be able to try a nice, crispy fried pearlspot or karimeen as it is known locally. Karimeen is a delectable gourmet experience, especially if it is fried right. You could also try the biryani, which serves as a delicious reminder that the dish means different things in different parts of India. The version served here puts a south Indian spin on the classic with moist, small-grained rice and fried chicken. Or order the dum biryani, in which the flavours of the meat embrace the rice. Still more variety? Try the fish, prawn and meat roasts coated in a fiery masala or a coconut milk-based fish curry or vegetable ‘ishtew’. You could spend weeks eating at Deluxe, discovering new facets to the wonderful cuisine of Kerala. The state has been called God’s own country. Until you can make a visit there, a trip to Deluxe is as good as it gets. Hotel Deluxe, 28, SBS Road, Pitha Street, Near Hitkari House, Fort, Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 22042351 APRIL 2013

eat out restaurant recipe Perched on the 12th floor of Pune’s Onyx mall, Italian restaurant Pesto Pesto offers a sweeping view of the city. Apart from the popular set lunch, the eatery has a limited yet commendable menu designed by Chef Karen Anand. The retro magazine-style menu includes sumptuous paninis, zesty salads and appetisers, pizzas straight from the wood-fired oven, a range of pastas and authentic desserts. The spacious lounge adds to the casual vibe of the restaurant.

Signature dish Pesto Pesto

Karen Anand shares her recipe for this flavour-packed Italian soup

Seafood broth Serves 4 Q 30 minutes Q EASY Saffron really brings out the flavour of the tomato. When tomatoes are in season (summer and October), you hardly need to cook the broth at all. Let the whole lot pass through a muslin cloth to achieve what is called an “essence”. Serve this cold along with poached prawns. olive oil 2 tbsp onion 1, chopped red chilli flakes 1/4 tsp salt and ground black pepper to taste garlic cloves 6, chopped tomatoes 6, chopped chicken stock 2 cups white wine 1/2 cup saffron a pinch prawns and fish 200g, cut into 2-inch pieces + 1 large prawn to garnish

APRIL 2013

QHeat the oil in a heavybottomed or stock pan over medium heat. Add onion, red chilli flakes and season to taste. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant. Tip in the chopped tomatoes, chicken stock and wine. Bring to simmer and cook for about 7-10 minutes. QPass everything through a fine strainer without pushing too much so that the broth is quite clear. QPat the seafood dry and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place the seafood and saffron in the broth slowly and cook till done, about 7-8 minutes. Season and serve with herbed bruschetta.

BBC GoodFood 123

eat away Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip! IN THIS ISSUE 7 Eat like a local: Australia p 126 7A culinary guide to Srinagar, p 132 7 Budget and Blowout guide to Puducherry, p 137 7Postcard from Kuala Lumpur, p 138

be eac ach cl close ose to os to Syd ydne dne ney, y,, p 129 y 29

eat like a local


Cutting-edge restaurants, hearty native food and world-class wines — they are all up for grabs Down Under Words and photographs NEETI MEHRA


hink of all things edible in Australia and the image of a unique pastiche forms in the mind. On one end of this grand buffet rests the food of the native Australians, a culinary legacy of local fruits, berries, seeds, meat (especially animal meats such as kangaroo and emu) and fish, colloquially known as bushfoods or bush tucker, harking back nearly 50,000 years. At the other end lies the food of the immigrants, which has evolved over the last few centuries — seedlings in the face of the bush, yet just as satiating and very slick. One reason for the robustness of the pantry Down Under is the unique diversity of its microclimate. Moving upwards from the cooler south, lush with aromatic herbs and sculpted with low-slung hills weighed down with grapes, the warmer north is a tropical paradise, a steamboat perfect for plump mangos, ripe avocados and crunchy and creamy macadamia nuts. Australia’s wide, rolling coast abounds in an array of fishy delights such as Southern blue fin tuna, King George whitings, mud crabs and odder sounding brethren such as the dhufish (also known as the pearl perch), the yabby (a crustacean that is a lobster lookalike), the balmain bug (a species of lobster) and the Moreton bay bug, among others. In each of its tiny towns and coastal cities, you will find cafés

126 BBC GoodFood

invariably serving buckets laden with fish and chips washed down with a strong local beer. Australia’s bustling cities are purveyors of great culinary experiences but so is the countryside. In Sydney you can dine like a king, and when the sun rises again, a short drive transports you to Hunter Valley. And from Adelaide, you can breeze into the Barossa Valley. Both these wine-producing regions offer the opportunity to sample the finest wines, try delicious, award-winning cheeses, and have cutting-edge meals at rustic and modern getaways, all amid lush green vineyards — the fruits of an industry started by German, Italian and French immigrants. Gourmet mavericks can open their bellies to a smorgasbord of new food experiences. Catch a mud crab and prepare it with hot chillies washed down with a delicate Riesling, stab your fork into a crocodile sausage soaked in wattleseed sauce, or barbeque a barramundi under the stars. Don’t leave without sampling the traditional nibbles. They include Tim Tams — chocolate biscuits; pavlovas — decadent meringue-based desserts named after the Russian ballet dancer Anna Pavlova; and Caramello Koalas — chocolate bars shaped like koalas, an ode to the region’s rich, natural edible bounty.


Chef Neil Perry is the Director of Rockpool Bar and Grill, Sydney

7 Roast beetroot salad with goat’s cheese 7 Barbecued king prawns 7 Lamb, harissa and almond sausage rolls 7 Beer battered fish 7 Lamingtons

Roast beetroot salad with goat’s cheese Serves 4 Q45 minutes + roasting QEASY Recipe NEIL PERRY Australian chef Neil Perry celebrates the beetroot, the pickled version of which is found frequently in burgers throughout the country, and also the country’s love for dairy, with goat’s cheese, in this delectable salad. beetroot 4, washed extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 3 tbsp (try Cirio available at gourmet stores) sea salt 1 tsp + extra to season (try Roland available at gourmet stores) pepper to season, freshly ground baby lettuce 2 leaves, washed and dried walnuts 50g, roasted and chopped APRIL 2013

Roast beetroot salad with goat’s cheese

Photograph EARL CARTER

eat away australia

A local food market in Adelaide Paul Allam and David McGuinness, co-owners of the hip Bourke Street Bakery, Sydney

Beer battered fish

masterclass eat away diy australia

White butter

oregano leaves 1 tbsp, chopped sage leaves 1 tbsp, chopped coriander 1 tbsp, chopped sea salt a pinch (try Roland available at gourmet stores) extra virgin olive oil 100ml + extra to serve


QTo make the marinade, place all the ingredients except the oil in a mortar and crush with a pestle to a coarse paste. Mix in the oil. Place the prawns in a large bowl and pour over the marinade. Allow to stand for 1 hour. QPreheat the barbecue, making sure the bars are clean. Place the prawns on the barbecue for 1 minute, then turn over. After another minute, remove from the barbecue and pile onto a platter. QDrizzle with oil and fresh lemon juice and give a generous grind of fresh pepper.

goat’s cheese 250g (try Lemnos available at gourmet stores)

QPreheat the oven to 180°C. Lay a square of foil on the work surface, large enough to wrap the beetroot in. Place the beetroot in the centre of the foil and drizzle with oil, 1 tbsp of the red wine vinegar, sea salt and 2 tbsp water. Wrap up tightly, place the parcel on an oven tray and roast for about an hour and 15 minutes, or until tender. Check the tenderness of the beetroot by inserting a knife into the centre of each. QRemove the beetroot from the oven and set aside to cool. When the beetroot is cool enough to handle, rub all the skin off; this should happen easily. QQuarter each beetroot lengthways. Place in a bowl and drizzle with oil and more of the red wine vinegar, season with sea salt and a grind of fresh pepper. Arrange the lettuce over 4 plates, place 4 pieces of beetroot on each and sprinkle the walnuts over. QPlace a few dollops of goat’s cheese in the centre of each plate and drizzle some more oil and red wine vinegar. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.

Make a batch of home-style, hand-churned makkhan with our deliciously creamy recipe. Great on parathas, toast… and just about everything!

Make sure you use only fresh full-fat milk.


A koala and its joey at the Taronga Zoo in Sydney

Lamb, harissa and almond sausage rolls Serves 4 Q1 hour 15 minutes + simmering + baking QMODERATELY EASY

QEat locally — for instance, while in South Australia Recipe PAUL ALLAM and DAVID scour the menu for South Australian oysters. McGUINNESS, Co-owners, Bourke Street Restaurants also offer fresh and seasonal fish of the Bakery, Sydney Barbecued king prawns day. Serves 4 Q35 minutes + marinating This quintessentially Australian savoury QMost menus list special dishes. You can refer to QEASY pastry has a balanced mix of textures for details on local leafy greens. and flavours, thanks to the spicy North QTipping is not compulsory in Australia, but if you’ve Recipe NEIL PERRY African chilli paste, harissa. enjoyed your meal, feel free to tip. QWhile you can opt for elaborate tours to sample The chef’s original recipe uses green THE HARISSA bush tucker cuisine, the native food of the Australian Australian king prawns, found on the red bell peppers 5, deseeded, Aborigines, you can also choose to stay in the city and coast of Western Australia, South membrane removed and finely chopped sample ingredients that have made their way into the Australia and Queensland to create a onions 350g, browned and finely mainstream such as finger limes, Davidson plums, lightly flavoured entrée. chopped Warrigal greens (also known as New Zealand spinach), garlic cloves 6, finely chopped native peaches and wattleseed (the edible seeds of the Hand-churned the cream on16, extrafrom kingcomes prawns large,the shell on, The red chillies 2, small, finely chopped liquids. Australian acacia plant,butter either eaten fresh out or dried and (malai) that Makes Q30 minutes + overnight the top of the milk withcut a spoon. Save down solids lengthways the middle are butter while coriander seeds 1 1/2 tsp milled 125g into flour). setting QA LITTLE EFFORT the cream in a bowl. Let it reach room extra virgin olive oil 1the tbsp liquid is called whey.smoked paprika 15g GETTING THERE temperature. lemon juice 2 tbsp QAdd ice cubes. This will help100ml water fresh Malaysia buffalo Airlines milkhas 2l (available a worldwide at your networkQTake of 80 the homemadepepper curd and mix freshly a pinch, ground the butter solidify and come on top. local destinations dairy) across four continents. It offers direct with the cream. Let it set overnight in ROLL Slowly remove the solidTHE butter with homemade weekly flights curd from 1 tbsp India to Kuala Lumpur,aoperating warm place. In the morning, put the THE MARINADE 75g, blanched a slotted spoon or withalmonds your palm, ice from cubes Chennai, 5-6 Bengaluru, Mumbai, Hyderabad andin a wide bowllemon set curd and using a 1, zested lamb 1.2kg, minced leaving the whey behind. Reserve New Delhi with 14 weekly connections to Sydney and churn the hand blender, set curd on a3, peeled garlic cloves couscous 75g (try Tipiak available at the butter and use as required. Best QBoil the fresh milk. Let it visit malaysiaairlines. Melbourne. For buffalo more information medium speed for about 5-8 minutes ginger a 2cm piece, peeled and grated gourmet stores) consumed within 3-4 days if stored in cool com.and chill in the refrigerator. Skim until the solids can be seen chilliseparating flakes 1 tsp raisins 110g, chopped a refrigerator. 128 BBC GoodFood

APRIL 2013

eat away australia



Lamb, harissa and almond sausage rolls


Port Stephens, a scenic harbour not too far from Sydney

A traditional Aboriginal dance

REMEMBER Barbecued king prawns

Filmfare recollects the sights and the sounds of the 58th Idea Filmfare Awards

Shah Rukh Khan and Saif Ali Khan have the audience in splits

Photograph EARL CARTER

t was a night like no other. Where everyone, be it the humblest technician in the 12th row to the mightiest star gracing the front row, was a winner. Where camaraderie prevailed. Where the chivalry shown by people who didn’t get to take home the trophy was praiseworthy. They clapped for the achievements of their peers because they knew they were celebrating cinema. Read on and sample some vignettes.

eat away australia

MINI GUIDE TO SYDNEY EAT Sydney is the melting pot of Australia, offering a wide variety of dining options. Visit Single Origin Coffee (Tel: +612 9211 0665) for your daily fix of exotic coffee and hearty Australian fare. If you prefer old-fashioned dining, head to the waterfront Otto Ristorante (Tel: +612 9368 7488, au) serving contemporary Italian cuisine, and dine on fresh Sydney Rock Oysters and tender wagyu beef.

STAY Overlooking the shimmering blue waters surrounding the Sydney Opera, the Sydney Harbour Marriott Hotel Circular Quay ( travel/sydmc-sydney-harbour-marriott-hotel-atcircular-quay/) is a well-appointed hotel, replete with a spa and fine restaurants, tucked in the heart of the bustling city. Doubles from 359 AUD. The Hughenden ( is a countrystyle hotel rubbing shoulders with the fashion district, Oxford Street. Doubles from AUD 163.

DO QGear up for an adrenaline rush atop Sydney’s most iconic attraction, the Harbour Bridge. Cheerful guides regale you with nuggets of information on the BridgeClimb (, taking you up its majestic arch, a soaring summit of 134 metres that offers magnificent views of the city. Choose different routes and different timings to gaze upon Sydney’s myriad wonders. QOgle at koala bears and cheeky Tasmanian devils at the delightful Taronga Zoo ( taronga-zoo), a quick ferry or bus ride from the

The rugged coast of Sydney

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salt 20g black pepper a pinch, freshly ground puff pastry 1 (try Jus Rol available at gourmet stores) egg 1, beaten, for brushing poppy seeds for sprinkling QTo make the harissa, put the bell peppers, onions, garlic cloves, chillies, coriander seeds and paprika in a large saucepan over medium heat. QAdd the water and simmer for 2 hours, stirring every 10-20 minutes, or until reduced to a thick paste. As the mixture begins to reduce, the sugar will ooze out of the bell peppers and will stick to the bottom of the pan, so keep a close watch. Stir regularly. QRemove from the heat and allow to cool. Weigh and set aside 350g of the harissa to use in the sausage roll filling. QTo prepare the roll, preheat the oven to 200°C. Put the almonds on a baking tray and cook for 5 minutes, or until lightly golden. Roughly chop and add to a large mixing bowl with the lamb, couscous, raisins, harissa, salt and pepper. Using your hands, mix the meat quite forcefully for 3 minutes, to thoroughly combine (this will also work the protein in the meat). The raisins and couscous soak up the juices of the mix and will bind the filling together. QRoll out the puff pastry into a rectangle, about 92 x 32 cm. Cut the pastry into 6 rectangles, about 15 x 30 cm each. QDivide the filling mixture into 6 even-sized portions. On a clean work surface, roll each portion out into a 30cm log with a 3cm diameter. Place each log lengthways in the centre of a pastry rectangle and brush one long edge with egg. Firmly fold the pastry over, pressing to enclose the log tightly, leaving the ends open. QCut each roll into 2 even-sized pieces. Place on baking trays lined with baking paper, seam side down. Brush the top of each roll with the egg and sprinkle poppy seeds. QReduce the oven temperature to 190°C. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Beer battered fish Serves 4 Q 30 minutes QEASY Recipe PHILLIP COLLIS, Executive Chef, Hunter Valley Resort You can’t escape this must-have as you breeze along Australia’s coast — a staple that’s adapted to suit the brew available. This version of the crunchy recipe calls for bluetongue alcoholic ginger beer and local hoki fish. THE BEER BATTER plain flour 250g olive oil 40g sea salt 5g + extra to season (try Roland available at gourmet stores) pepper 5g lager beer 250ml, chilled egg whites 100g white fish fillets 4 lemon wedges to serve THE AIOLI garlic cloves 2, chopped sea salt 5g (try Roland available at gourmet stores) egg yolks 2 olive oil 1 cup water 30ml lemon juice 30ml wholegrain mustard 15g (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) QTo make the aioli, mix the garlic, salt and egg yolks in a food processor until well combined. Slowly add the oil, processing to form a thick mayonnaise. Transfer to a bowl. QStir in water, lemon juice and mustard. Cover with cling-film and refrigerate. QTo make the fish, mix plain flour, olive oil, sea salt and pepper together. Add beer to the mixture until a smooth batter is formed. Lightly whisk the egg whites. Mix egg whites with the beer batter. QDip pieces of fish, one at a time, into the batter to coat. Drain off excess. Deep-fry for 3-4 minutes or until golden brown and cooked. Transfer to a plate. Season with sea salt and serve with aioli and lemon wedges. APRIL 2013

eat away australia city. Don’t miss the zoo’s Wild Australia Experience where an expert introduces you to the continent’s quirky fauna. You can also feed an emu, scratch a wallaby behind its ear and examine the burrow of the endangered southern hairy-nosed wombat. Priceless. QThere is only one thing more thrilling than catching a performance at the Sydney Opera House (, and that is a behind-thedoors tour of this World Heritage Monument. A treat for theatre buffs, this two hour-long tour lets you float through the celebrity green rooms, grab a mic and even pirouette on stage.



Lamingtons Serves 4 Q1 hour 20 minutes + overnight refrigerating QEASY Recipe courtesy SAMUEL CHAN THORNLEY, Chef, Exceptional Kangaroo Island Said to be named after Lord Lamington, who served as the Governor of Queensland centuries ago, a Lamington is a simple sponge cake dipped in chocolate and then into desiccated coconut. THE BASIC BUTTER CAKE self-raising flour 120g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) sugar 120g butter 60g milk 80ml vanilla essence eggs 2 THE ICING butter 1/2 tbsp, for greasing desiccated coconut 60g icing sugar 1 cup (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cocoa powder 30g water 200ml, boiled vanilla essence a few drops APRIL 2013

QPreheat the oven to 180°C. To make the butter cake, grease and line the bottom of a shallow rectangular baking dish. Mix the flour and sugar together for 5 minutes. Add butter, milk, vanilla essence and eggs. Mix well. QPour the mixture into the baking dish. Cook for approximately 30 minutes. Cool the cake before cutting into squares. Store them in the freezer overnight. QTo make the icing, scatter a thick bed of desiccated coconut on a sheet of greaseproof paper. QSift the icing sugar and cocoa in a double boiler. Add water and vanilla and stir over hot water until smooth. The icing should be thin — add a little more water if necessary, and keep the bowl over hot water while working. QSpear each square of cake on a fork and dip into icing. Hold over bowl a moment while icing initially sets, then roll in coconut, using the paper to help. Place on a wire rack to dry. Lamingtons can be frozen separately to keep longer.

VEGEMITE This dark brown Australian food paste is made from yeast extract, a byproduct of beer, and can be slathered over sandwiches, crumpets and crackers, though it is an acquired taste. WINE Make sure to pick up wines from the Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley in South Australia; the Yarra Valley in Victoria; the Hunter Valley in New South Wales; Margaret River in Western Australia and Richmond in Tasmania. FINGER LIME This fleshy, juicy fruit of a delicate rainforest tree is used to make chutneys and syrups. ANZAC BISCUITS During the First World War, Australian women made biscuits from rolled oats, sugar, flour, coconut, butter, golden syrup or treacle and soda bicarbonate for their sons, husbands and brothers who served in the armed forces. These nutritional biscuits are available even today. MACADAMIA NUTS Native to East Australia, these nuts can be eaten like a snack or used in gourmet preparations and desserts.

MENU DECODER CHIKO ROLL A Chinese spring roll with an Australian twist, this popular savoury takeaway snack best describes the nation’s culinary heterogeneity. It is a hearty roll stuffed with beef, cabbage, celery and corn, among other things. PAVLOVA This much beloved dessert is the subject of a long-standing food war between Australia and New Zealand, with both countries claiming the delicious, meringue-based dessert with a soft, marshmallowy centre to be their own. In Australia, the legend goes that the pavlova (affectionately abridged to ‘pav’) was created in honour of Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova when she visited the country in the 1920s. LAMINGTON A square-shaped sponge cake coated in a layer of chocolate icing and desiccated coconut.

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Photo courtesy INDIA PICTURE

City on the plate

Srinagar Srinagar is a non-stop foodie adventure, teeming with fresh and abundant local produce, elaborate wazwan and unique street eats available at every nook Words and photographs MARRYAM H RESHII

Photo courtesy INDIA PICTURE

EAT Srinagar likes any type of food as long as it is Kashmiri. So don’t go looking out for Chinese, Thai and Italian: it is simply not that type of city. On the plus side, Kashmiri wazwan is nothing short of a culinary revelation. Don’t want a full meal but a heavy snack instead? Srinagar is your place: the city heaves with lamb kebabs, Kashmiri fried snacks and a variety of breads, biscuits and savouries that will keep you enthralled. The down-to-earth prices and sheer unpretentiousness of it all only sweetens the deal. If you are looking for Kashmiri wazwan, be aware it was never intended as an à la carte offering but as a gastronomic way of using up a whole sheep. So, tabak maaz can only be made from the ribs, methi maaz can only come from the stomach and intestines, dhaniphol only from the shank and so on. By the time you have a dozen or so dishes ready, the whole carcass has been used. But such is the ingenuity and so great the plethora of sauces that it does not seem like cucina povera, but quite the contrary.You need an invitation to a wedding or wazwan (which means banquet) to sample the full spread but the most popular dishes are available all over town.

The best-known full-service restaurant is Ahdoos. Its shabby, faded charm is as much part of the appeal as the wazwan it serves. Methi maaz (chopped stomach and intestines cooked with dried methi leaves) sounds less than felicitous but is enormously popular, seekh kebab, tabak maaz (shallow-fried ribs), rogan josh, rista and gushtaba (two variations of meat balls made of pounded rather than minced meat), lahabi kebabs (pounded meat kebabs in gravy), roast chicken wazwan style and yakhni, or curd based gravy are all available individually. At a banquet, you would sit on the ground and eat the whole lot in one sitting. You can sample the full wazwan (upwards of eight courses, depending on your appetite and budget) at any hotel or houseboat — mentioned in the Stay section (see p 136), with advance notice. That apart, there are other options. In many parts of the city there are streetside stalls selling three or four types of wazwan dishes. Have a portion or two packed and enjoy it in your hotel room. Wazwan is always eaten with plain steamed rice. The most famous dishes of a wazwan are the ristas and gushtabas. They are also the most painstaking to make and the most widely available owing to their

Left (from top): Children look out the window in the Old City of Srinagar; Boats called doongas are the movable homes of a particular community; A vendor selling Kashmiri spices

Photo courtesy INDIA PICTURE

eat away local knowledge

A variety of fish can be found in Kashmir’s lakes

Above: Moinj gool or fryums, enjoyed with tea; Right: Dried morels at Amin bin Khaliq; Facing page: Gardeners selling vegetables grown on the Dal Lake

BUY Walnuts, almonds, morels (` 17,000-25,000 a kg) and saffron (approximately ` 200 for 1gm) all grow abundantly in Kashmir. The best place to buy all of these is Amin bin Khaliq, a venerable old store owned by a family of growers and traders (1/A Polo View, Tel: +91 194 247386). The new crop comes into stores in October. Saklain’s Coterie (32, Polo View, Tel: +91 9419021880) is a tiny store that has food grade oils from the young owner’s family plantations. Organic lavender and rosemary oil, ` 150 for 6ml, and almond oil, ` 150 for 60ml, are great souvenirs for the hobby cook. Jee Enn Bakery and Moonlight have marvellous ginger biscuits. In Jee Enn, they are available in the winter months. Also buy the Kashmiri spice mix known as waer, which is sold in cake form. It is made with pounded red chillies, shallots, garlic and select spices. Available unbranded all over town, the best version is by local spice giants Kanwal and Rahmat, available at all the departmental stores on Residency Road.

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popularity, which is why purveyors like Manzoor do brisk business. Moreover, Manzoor’s ristas and gushtabas are made with beef, so they have an earthier appeal besides being pocket-friendly. Next in line are kebabs grilled on bhattis or open charcoal grills that sit atop carts. In the evenings, Ghanta Ghar and its surroundings are smoky with fragrant clouds of lamb (or beef), melting fat and spices. Some kebabs are made of minced lamb, others are actually tikkas, and still others are made with the chewy meat from the sheep’s head. Besides the easy-to-access Ghanta Ghar, the other areas famous for tikkas and kebabs are Khayyam Chowk and the funky ethnic market in the vicinity of Hazratbal, the marbledomed mosque. The straggling row of clean but basic eateries in Khayyam

Chowk, abutting a disused cinema hall called Khayyam, are famous as much for the half dozen chutneys they serve as for the tujj (stick or skewer) itself. The chutneys are made of pumpkin, onion, walnut, radish, mint and coriander. Connoisseurs rate this row of restaurants the highest in the city, and for sheer atmospherics, it is admittedly a hard act to beat. Vegetarians need not despair. Nadru moinj is an interesting fried snack featuring batons of lotus stem, sliced potato wafers or dried peas all dipped in a flaming orange rice flour batter and deep-fried. Served with a chutney made of sliced onions, chopped green chillies and vinegar, this is a marriage made in culinary heaven. Then there is masala: boiled kernels of wheat or rajma or a black dal available only in Kashmir called vari moth. Sold mainly at shrines across the city, the secret to this delicacy is the long cooking time on low heat which ensures that every grain is separate and bursts with a satisfying plop on your palate. It is not only healthy because it is steamed but inexpensive as well: ` 10 will procure you an hour’s munching! You do have to look for it though, notably at Hazratbal. There’s also another kind of masala, quite like the Kashmiri equivalent of hummus and pita bread. It is made with safed chana cooked with spices till dry and served on a refined flour chapatti. While in Srinagar, don’t forget to sample the innumerable breads, biscuits and cakes. Though most of these appeal to the international palate, they have been made for the Kashmiri market and include coconut APRIL 2013

eat away local knowledge

Photo courtesy INDIA PICTURE

macaroons, tea cakes, plum cakes and sweet, melt-in-the-mouth cookies called toula tschochhen that are available in a variety of flavours. Walnut fudge is a must-try sweetmeat. A shortcrust base is topped with a melting, gooey layer of chopped walnuts in a toffee sauce. Very few bakeries attempt this dish and even fewer get it right. Moonlight is the very best of these (Tel: +91 194 2426400). At ` 40, this is a piece of heaven (beware, there’s no stopping at just one piece). With salted tea, Kashmiris eat a variety of savoury breads and puff pastries with a local spin. Baqarkhani are rounds of puff pastry that are dipped into salt tea and eaten soggy. Sheermal is a cross between bread and shortcrust pastry, while a Kashmiri kulcha is a melt-in-themouth masterpiece with a hefty dose of shortening. To try some of these, visit Jee Enn Bakery which is both well-known as well as accessible, being on the arterial MA Road (Tel: +91 194 2478628). While all these are savoury snacks made in industrial ovens by corner shop bakers, breads such as lavasse, tschochvoru and tschot are made by hereditary bakers called kaandurs who operate tandoors. While tandoors are used to cook meat as well as breads in the rest of the country, in Kashmir, as in Central Asia, the tandoor is for bread alone.

DO A modest percentage of the city’s vegetables is grown on the Dal Lake in floating gardens called demb. Although dembs affect the health of the lake, there is no doubt that they make a APRIL 2013

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eat away local knowledge

Photo courtesy INDIA PICTURE

Left: Bakeries in Hazratbal specialise in ‘roath’ — a cross between a bread and a cake; Below: The dried flower of the cockscomb plant has no taste but it is used to give curries like rogan josh a rich hue

picturesque sight. The produce grown on the demb is cultivated by individual families and sold every morning at the break of dawn in the interiors of the Dal, which functions as a vegetable market. Every shikarawala knows the area, but in order to experience it firsthand you have to book a shikara the previous evening. The vegetable market operates for about an hour.You will see around 50 boats converge and navigate skilfully around one another at the speed of lightning, but without a single collision. This is a purely wholesale market where gardeners come with laden boats and buyers with empty ones. The vegetables traded depend upon the season, with autumn being the most picturesque time. The nearest ghat is at Nehru Park, about 25 minutes away.You can expect to pay between ` 300-500 for a shikara, based on the amount of time you spend at the market.

STAY Give the hotels a skip and spend a couple of days on a houseboat, a unique experience you’ll have only in Srinagar. They are moored all over the Dal and Nigeen Lakes as well as on a stretch of the River Jhelum from Dalgate to the Bund. The Dal is not as pristine as the Nigeen, but it 136 BBC GoodFood

does offer a wider range of views: you will find houseboats facing vegetable gardens, near (illegal) islands on which villages have sprung up and near wide swathes of water. If you are on the Dal, you will need to organise a shikara or kishti (a smaller boat) each time you want to cross. From any boat on the

Nigeen, you can disembark straight onto the banks. Butt’s Clermont Houseboats on the westernmost shore of the Dal are reminiscent of the British Raj in their atmosphere ( Other recommended ones on Nigeen Lake include Mascot Houseboats ( and Gurkha Houseboats, which have a tie-up with the WelcomHeritage group ( gurkha-houseboats). For a fabulous, 360 degree view, it doesn’t get a lot better than Vivanta by Taj ( The Lalit, set in a former maharaja’s palace with extensive lawns, offers opulent digs (thelalit. com/the-lalit-grand-palace-srinagar). Far smaller in scale is Dar es Salam ( on the banks of the Nigeen Lake, a home managed by members of the family and their staff. Ahdoo’s Hotel ( is located in the heart of the city from where you can walk to the shopping and eating areas. To stay in a real home in upscale Rajbagh with excellent home-style food and personalised service, you would do well to check out Narboo House (opposite New Era Public School, contact Stanzin Narboo on +91 9622375122). APRIL 2013

eat away city break

BUDGET and BLOWOUT guide to

Once referred to as the French Riviera of the East, Puducherry was a French colony till 1954. The French influence still lingers in its architecture and cuisine. The local Tamil cuisine matches French cuisine note for note along with Creole cuisine.

Puducherry A melting pot of cuisines, Puducherry boasts a food culture flecked with French, Tamil and Creole influences Words PRIYANKA GUPTA


7Located in the courtyard of a restored building, La Maison Rosé(Tel: +413 4210806) offers continental delicacies. Try the Seerfish a la Plancha with Chimichuri sauce and Grilled Beef Fillet, ` 410. Sample their La Maison Rosé special drink (gin or vodka with lychee juice, mint and ginger), ` 250, and the New York Cheesecake, ` 200.


Puducherry’s popular Italian restaurant Don Giovanni boasts of a vast menu with several pastas, pizzas and other delicacies. Try the Chicken Cacciatora with homemade focaccia for ` 250 and follow it up with rich chocolate ice cream, ` 150. (Tel: +91 9894897955) 7One of Puducherry’s oldest restaurants, Rendezvous ( has a huge menu and casual, outdoor seating. Order the vegetable Shashlyk Sizzler for ` 250 and try the French classic Crème Caramel, ` 160.

7Try the restaurant at Villa Shanti (, a new hotel with contemporary French architecture. Sip on cocktails, ` 375 onwards, with the Prawn and Pomello Salad, ` 250. Try the Prawn Wrapped Fish, Tiger Prawns or Patra ni Lobster, ` 475-750. End the evening with the Orange and Almond Cake or Crepe Suzette for ` 175.

Seagull (Tel: +413 2338643) is a fuss-free scenic rooftop restaurant overlooking the sea.The drinks range from ` 35-150. 7Lé Space (+91 9944337940), a rooftop bar in a French quarter with a whimsical ambience made up of mismatched chairs and fairy lights is a great, relaxed hangout. Although the bar menu is limited, the Mojito and Litchi Monaco, ` 200 each, are quite popular.

7Lighthouse at Hotel Promenade is a rooftop restaurant with a magnificent view of the ocean. The Kamikaze, ` 250, and Green Mango Margarita, ` 330, are highly recommended. Ask your server for complimentary hummus and bread. (sarovarhotels. com/Pondicherry-the-promenade)

A beautiful heritage guesthouse surrounded by trees with an open courtyard and an in-house kitchen, Gratitude ( offers excellent value for money. Doubles for ` 3,500-6,000. 7Aurodhan Guest House ( is situated above the Aurodhan Art Gallery. Each room is aesthetically furnished and decorated with objects from the art gallery. Doubles from ` 1,800-3,800.

7Hotel De L’Orient is one of the best heritage hotels in Puducherry. The beautifully restored building dates back to the late 1760s. With luxurious rooms ranging between ` 3,500-7,500 (inclusive of breakfast), the hotel offers a mix of French ambience and Indian hospitality. (hotel-de-lorient.

Zuka (, the only chocolate boutique in Puducherry is the best way to indulge your sweet tooth. Buy edible souvenirs such as truffle boxes to take home. 7A walk along the beach promenade and coffee at Le Café (Tel: +413 2223854) makes for an evening well spent. 7A day trip to Auroville, an eight-kilometre ride from Puducherry will give you a glimpse of the unique spiritual township created for human unity and the breathtaking, gilded dome of the Matrimandir.

7Shop on Mission Street from stores like Kalki, Casablanca and Hidesign for leather bags and accessories and have a quick bite at the fancy Hidesign Café (Tel: +0413 222 9944) located on the top floor of the store.


7Banana Café is a casual, rooftop restaurant with a European-centric menu. Try their fresh salads, ` 120150. Follow it up with a Ragi Galette or Pasta Arrabiata, for ` 100 and ` 150 respectively. End the lunch with a slice of their homemade cake for ` 50-80. (Tel: +91 9626561259) 7Surguru Spot (Tel: +413 430 8084) is perfect for authentic South Indian food. Order the Surguru special thali with different curries and rice preparations at ` 150 or snack on dosas for ` 47-70.





APRIL 2013

BBC GoodFood 137


Kuala Lumpur

RISM Photo courtesy TOU

Give fine dining a miss and hit the hawker stalls to savour the authentic flavours of the Malaysian capital Words and photographs KAREN ANAND


of creating a community of creative people and cultural innovators to produce new artistic projects, which includes cuisine and wine in addition to theatre and art. This initiative, known as the LM100, is helmed by Jérôme Sans, a French art curator who serves as the Meridien’s global cultural curator. As a result, the Meridien in Kuala Lumpur is an arty space with a magnificent chocolate lounge known as Art Cacao, a bar and a gastro pub that replaces the traditional coffee shop. It is an exciting idea and those interested in the new frontiers of hospitality will embrace the change. In my room upstairs, instead of the boring fruit basket or chocolates wrapped in cling film, there are handbroken bars of chocolate studded with whole nuts such as macadamia and hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on an old-fashioned weighing scale, the next. At Gastro Sentral, IS tesy TOURISM Photo cour

hree days in Kuala Lumpur – sounds like the start of a Hemingway novel. It is a humid, crowded city, overrun by buildings, flyovers and malls. I visited it last several years ago, when we came as a family to watch the Formula 1 at Sepang. One thing that has remained constant despite all the change is the food – Kuala Lumpur is all about great food, whether it’s street food, restaurant food or casual dining. Today, the city rivals Singapore as the culinary capital of Asia. I check into the newly refurbished Le Meridien (lemeridienkualalumpur. com) right opposite the Sentral railway station, which is a convenient way to connect to the airport and much better than taking a taxi. The lobby area of the hotel is now known as the Hub. Le Meridien follows a philosophy

Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, Karen Anand has journeyed across the world writing about gastronomy.

the hotel’s gastro pub, executive chef Antoine brings some real home style French specialities to KL – at breakfast, apart from croissants, he also dishes out some excellent local specialities such as nasi lemak. Often called the national dish of Malaysia, nasi lemak is in fact a breakfast dish. It is made of rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaves, served with sambal, anchovies and peanuts — a bit of a fishy mouthful in the morning but undoubtedly delicious. To discover the variety of Kuala Lumpur’s culinary offerings in a single place, we head to Lot 10 Hutong food court (50 Jalan Sultan Ismail; Tel: +603 2143 6092), located in the basement of a busy and fashionable stretch of Bukit Bintang. Lot 10 is different because it serves pork, which a lot of other Muslim food courts don’t. In fact, Lot 10 is Malaysia’s first nonhalal food court. It brings together hawker stalls from all over the country in one charming, Chinese teahouse ambience. In addition, it is air-conditioned — a huge plus in this city.You can find all of KL’s favourite dishes here – roti canaii and roti jala (lacy pancakes); chicken curry and Asam laksa; beef

and an d ch chic icke ic keen sa s taay; y po popi p ah pi ah or pa panc ncak nc akes ak es stuff st uff ffed ff e wit ed ith h veege g ta tabl bless, se bl bles seaf eaffoo ood an ood and d c ic ch icke ken; ke n; meee go gore rreengg (or fri ried d noo odl d es); ess); beef be ef re rend nddan angg, na n si s gorren ng, char ch har ar kueey te teow teow w (sti (s t rti r-fr frie fr ied ie d no n od o les) lees)) and my fa favo vori vo r tee, ri bak ku ba kutt te teh h — a sor ortt of of her e ba b l, aro roma mati ma tic tic ti p rkk steew. po w So Some me nam me mes es to wa w tc tch ou tch outt fo or in n Lot 10 ar aree Kl Klan Klan ang g Ba Bakk ku kutt te teh h an and d

faamo mous us for praawn wn noo oodl dles dl es and fri r ed oyst oy ster st ers. er s.T s. The hen n yo y u ha h vee Ice Roo o m, wh her eree sh hav aved ed ice (lo oca callllllyy kn now own n as a aiis ka kaca ca ang ng) is top ppe ped d wi w th fre ressh sh fru uit i purrée and pu an nd be bean anss – an an n acq cqui u re ui red d taast ste. e. T e piict Th ctur urres on th u he wa wallllllss sh show o the ow owne ow ners ne rss of st s al alls ls wit ith h lo loca c l ce ca c le lebr brrit itie i s ie and an d th thee pr pric pri ices aree asttou ices ound ndin nd ingl in gy gl

“In my room upstairs, instead of the boring fruit basket or chocolates wrapped in cling film, there are hand-broken bars of chocolate studded with whole nuts such as macadamia and hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on an old-fashioned weighing scale, the next.” Ho Wen ng Ke Keee W Wont Wo ont nton on Noo oodl dles dl es,, raate es ted d as one of th thee fo fourr be four bes estt no nood odle od le plaace cess in n Mal alay ay ysi s a. a. Th Thee sp spec pec ecia ecia ial alliiti ties es inc nclu lude lu de thee fiv th fivee-ssp espic picce be beef ef bri r skket e (fatty ffaatt t y but butt bu very ve ry tasstyy) an and d th thee brrai aise seed po orkk rib in blac blac bl ackk be bean an sau uce ce noo o dl dles ess. Ko Kong n Taii is ng

reas re a on as nab able le.. If yo y u as a kp polilite poli ite tely elyy, th they ey w ll eve wi eveen br brin in ng th he di dish sh hes to yo your tab your blee ble so o yo you don on’t ’ hav ’t avee to o queue ueeue ue u up. p It p. I is advi ad dvi visa sabl sa ble bl le to go in in a lar arge rge ge gro roup p as we do — por orti tion ti onss ar on a e la larg rgee an rg nd yo you u caan tryy a va tr vari riet ri etty of disshe hes. s s.

Ottheer th O han the sho hopp pp pin ng, g whi h ch is stu tupe pend pe nd dou us, s, the he can an’t ’tt-m mis isss lo oca call attr at trracctiion ons ar are th are thee Ce C nt ntra rall Ma ra Mark rket et and an d Ro R ya y l Seela lang ngor ng or.. Ce or Cent nttraal Ma Markket e (cen (c entr en tral tr alma al maark r ett.ccom om.m .my) .m y) is 12 20 ye year arss ar o d. Ori ol rigi g na gi nallllllyy a we w t ma mark rket rk e , it et it now w hous ho houses u es a who us wh ho ole bun bu un nch of st stor ores or es fro om taackky so souv souv uven enir en irr sho hops ps to to stor s orress sto st ock c in i g genu ge n in nu inee crrafftss fro rom m th thee re regi giion gi on. on n. Don Do on n’’t miiss mi ss the ss he art/craft art/c rtt/ccr cra raft ft gal alle lery le ryy (an anne neexe xeg ega galler lller ery. y. y. c m) on th co thee se second eco c n co nd dfl floor oor. oo r. Ce C nt ntra ral ra al Mark Ma rket rk ett is a go good pla good lace c to ce to pick pickk u up p anyt an nyt yyth th hing hi ing g fro rom m a co oco conu nutt bu nu butt tton tt on ba bag g to to a ba bamb mboo oo fan an. n Thee Ro Th oya yall Se Sela l ng la n or or showr sho ow wroo wr room oo om (roy (r roy oyal yal aalse lse ssela lan lang ng gor .ccom .com om) m) is is a com mpllet ete ete su urp r rise risee. I h ri haavee see seeen eeen pe pewt pew wter e sto er ore ress att air irpo po ort rtss be befo fore fo re but u neev ver ver er reall rea eallllly un u nde derssto tood od wha hatt al a l th thee fu fuss ss is abou ab bou utt. Pewt Pe wter is an wter wt n alll oy of tiin, n cop oppe perr and pe an nd

Cloc Cl oc ckw kwis i e fr is from om f ci fa cing ng pag a e: Kual Ku ala al a Lu L mp pur is ove verr r un rr un by skys sk y cr ys crap ap per ers; s s; Th he sh hav aved ed ice c ais s dess de sser ss ert, er t,, ai k ca ka cang ng g is an acqu ac acquire quir qu uirre ed d taste; tas aste t ; te P ta Pe Petali ali ling ng Stree tree eett is hom ome e to o Kual Ku alla Lu um um mpur mp pur’s ur’s u s Ch Chin hin nat a own; own; ow n; n The Th e Hu Hub b at Le Meri Me ridi ri dien di en n; The The T Lot 10 food Lot foo ood od co cour urtt ur offe of fers fe rs s aut uthe he ent ntic ic c Ma alla ays ysia siia ian an n fare; fare fa re;; rre Sa Sata atta ay is s a pop opul ular ular s re st reet et sna et ack k

A Y IA YSI LAY MALA ISM MA RIISM TOUR rtesy TOU courte hoto cou Pho

eat away postcard

turm rm meric c powde derr 1 tssp de chilli powderr 1 tsp w te wa terr 2 cups coconut milk 150ml p ta po atoes 100g, cubed boneless s chicken 500g, cubed carr r ots 100g, cubed salt an nd pepperr to taste

THE E CH C ICKE K N CURR R Y palm oil 4 tbsp shallots 40g 0 g rlic ga c clove es 1 tbssp, slice c d root ro oo gin ngerr 1 tbsp, pee eled, sliced and ju ulien nned cinn ci nn namon stick ks 2 c rd ca rdam amom 5-6 c ov cl ves e 5-6 6 star ar ani nise s 1 curry leav aves av es 10 10-12 onion paste 1 1//2 tb bsp s garlic paste 1 1/2 tbssp ging ger paste 1 tbsp p curry powderr 1 tbsp


THE ROTI JAL LA eggs 2 waterr 650ml coconut milk k 100 00ml 00 turm r eric pow wde derr 2g sa alt 5g wheat flourr 350g oil 100 00ml m

Pho oto o cou co ou urtessy y ROYA ROYAL O L SEL SELA AN ANGO NGO

Reci R cipe i courtes esy y CHEF ZUB U IR M HA MO AMMED ZAIN, N Le Me M ridi d en, Kual a a Lu al ump m u urr


Serves S e 4 Q Q11 hourr QMODERATELY EASY

QHe Heat a oil in a pa p n and sauté the sh hallots, sliced garlilic cloves, root ginger, cinn namon stick ks, cardamom, cloves, star anise and curry leaves until aromatic i . Sttir in the on nion,, garlic an a d ginger pas aste as es an a d co ook k f r an fo a ot othe er 5 mi minu n te es. s Ad dd in curry pow wde er, turmeric and chi h lli powder and mix well. Cook on me m di d um m heat fo f r about 10 minutes and pour in the w water. ae C ntinue Co e to bo b il, tu turn urn to medium d m h at and add in he n th the coconut milk. C nt Co ntin i ue u to o si sim simm mmer forr another 5 mi m nu utes. Whi W ile the curry is cookin ng, start prrep e ar aring r the rotii jal a a. Add the e potato t cub bess to the cu urry, cook for a few ew min nut utes e and d ad dd the e ch hiccke k n ken. n. Cov ver e the pan an nd co c nt ntinue tin inue ue s mmerring until potato si t and ch c icken ar a e halfwa w y cooked. Ad A d th he ca arrott cu ubes an nd se seas ason o well. Allow w to sim immer un until the chiccke en an a d potatoes are fully cooked. Re R mo ove from heat and se s rve. QTo make the ro oti t jala, take a deep bowl and d add eggs, water, coc o onutt milk and turme m ricc powder and whi h sk lighttly l . Mix in the flour little by little so th hat a there are no lump ps. He eatt a ta awa w and d grease with oil. Fi F ll a pipi pi p ng bag g with batter and using n a circcul u ar motion, mak ke th t in and lacey y pa anc n akes e . Cook o until set o one side on e on only and serve with chiccken n cu urr rry.

tesy TOURISM Photo cour

Rotii jalla witth chick ken n cu urry

Belo Be lo ow, fro rom left le eft ft: t: A gi gian antt pewt an pe ewt wter er tank ta nkar nk ard ar d at Ro oya yall Se Sela la ang ngor or;; or Stre St reet re et foo ood d att Ja ala lan n Al Alor o in or Ku ual ala a Lu Lump mpur mp ur

an nti timo m ny mo ny,, a du dulllll sililve verr gr rgrey ey met etal all tha hatt ccaan bee ham mme mere reed an and d fa fash shio sh ione io ned ne d in into to o ever ev eryt er ythi yt hing hi hing g fro rom m tteeapot apotts to ap t tan anka kard ka rd dss.. I cossts alm It lmos lmos ostt as a much ucch as as sililve ver, ve r, so don’t n’t ex n’ expe pect pe c to pi ct p ck c up a so souvveen souv nir here he re.. Ho re H we w ve v r th thee sh how o ro oom itsel tsel ts elff is i a mast ma ster st errpiiec ecee of o mer erch ch han ndiissiing ng,, wi with t a th sttun nniing ng caffé an and a to tour ur tha ur hatt in incl ncl clud udes ud es a c an ch ance c to ccrreaate ce te you ourr ow own n ob obje jeect c d’a ’art rtt maade of pe pewtter, er, wh er whic ich ic h yo you u ge g t to kee eep. p. Befo Be fore fo ree vis isit ittin ing, g I tho g, oug ught ht thi h s wo w ul uld d bee a bo bori r ng fac ri a to ory tou our, r but it tu r, turn rnss ou rn ut to t be a rea eallllllyy en e jo oya yabl blee ex bl expe peeri rien en nce c . T er Th eree ar are re reest stau aura au raant n s and an nd st stal alls al ls in Kual Ku alaa Lu al Lump mpur mp urr tha hatt arre faamo mous u for us o jus ust ust onee pa on part rtic rt icul ic ular dis ular ish. h I avoid h. vo oid the pop opul ular ul ar ar Peeta talilil ng g Strree e t, whi hich ch is ho hott an and d hu humi mid mi d wiith onl nlyy av ver e ag agee fo food o . Ba od Bang ngsa ng sarr Vill sa Villl ag Vi agee (ban (b angs an gsar gs arvi ar villllag vi vill age. ag e co e. c m) m is a tr tren endy en dy neeig ghb hbou ourh ou rhoo rh ood oo d wo w rt rth h ex xp pllor orin ing, in g wit g, ith outd ou tdoo td oorr ca oo café féss an fé and d lo loca call fo ca f od sta talllllls. s s. Fatt Fa ttyy Cr tt Crab abss (f ab (fat atty at tyycr crab abs. ab s. com) co m) is ju just st what wh at you o exp pecct itt to bee – it ha h sa meenu ful ulll off craab co cook oked ok ed d in di diffe ffere ffe rent re nt ways w wa yyss, incl ys, including clud cl lud din ng wi w th h gla lass s noo ss oodl dles dl es;; es th her ermi m do mi dorr-st rsttyl styl yle; e;; as as clay-po c ayy p cl pott cr po c ab ricce; fiery fi fie rry y peep pp per pe er cr crab a ; so ab soft sh soft hell he elllll chil chi h lllllillii crab crab cr and an d so o on. n. It is is a cl clea ean, ea n white n, hite spa hi pace cee that th at loo o kss mor o e liikkee a cont con onte temp tte mporrary m mpo ary fast ffoo fast oo o od d re rest sstau tau aura rant ra nt tha nt han n lilike ikke a loccal a jo oin i t wi with th h the he ind in ndigenou igen ig enou en ouss flaavo ou vour u I ur am expecting am x ec xp ecti ting ti ng g. Bu ut th t e cr crab rab ab b is to di die f r, whi fo h ch chev eevver w way ay you cho oos osee to o eat it. Th it Ther eree ar er a e so some me Mallay ay fin nee dinin din nin ng ng reesttau ura rant ant nts ts th thatt I am re reco comm co mm men ende ded de d to vissit suc u h as En naak KL K (en enakkkl kl.. com) co m) and m) d Bijjan n (bi bija ija janr nres nr esstaur taaur uran ant. an t. t. com) co m),, bu m) butt to me Kual Ku ual alaa Lu ump mpur u is ur alll ab al bou o th haawk awkkerr and str tree eett fo ee food od and that th at’s at ’ss my fo ood d pic ickk of o thi hiss trrip p.


COOK LIKE A PRO Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph GARETH MORGANS

In this section 7K 7 Koldo Royo’s Ko seaf eafood paella eafo maste ster terclass p 142 7Homemade de jackfruit chutn utne tney p 146 7Rohan Jelkie on new world wines p 147



We know you’ve been struggling for years to replicate the flavours of restaurant-style Chinese food. The secret lies in the wok and no matter how much you try with a kadhaii you’re probably never going to get the same flavour. So invest in a round-bottomed, carbon steel wok and flash fry your way through dishes that are ready in a jiffy with a hint of that mildly charred and smoky flavour you love so much. This wok has been modified for home use so it rests well on any type of stovetop and comes with a long and easy-to-grip handle, making sure that you can cook at higher temperatures, which helps in sealing all the flavour, without burning your hand. The carbon steel body is beaten thin so it makes up for a lack of a professional wok burner by heating up quicker and retaining its temperature. Apart from stirfrying, we’ve also optimised our round-bottomed wok by using it for steaming, frying, braising and even smoking meats. Try Dia available at cookware stores and from ` 1,795 onwards.


Masterclass Michelin-starred chef Koldo Royo from Koldo Royo in Spain makes his signature step-by-step seafood paella Recipe KOLDO ROYO Photographs ARVIND CHENJI

Seafood paella Serves 4 Q 45 minutes Q MODERATELY EASY sea bass 200g, deboned and skinned squid 200g, cleaned and skinned prawns 200g olive oil 2 tbsp garlic cloves 2, finely chopped romano flat green beans or French beans a handful, chopped saffron 5g tomatoes 2, peeled and puréed sweet paprika 1 tbsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) bomba rice 400g, boiled (try De Cecco available at gourmet stores) fish broth 1.5l salt to season


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masterclass chef skills

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BBC GoodFood 143


Preheat the oven to 250°CCut the fish into large chunks.


Place the squid flat on the chopping board and cut into cubes.


Clean the prawns and devein them. Then chop off the tail. You could use this to make your batch of fresh fish stock.


Heat a large pan and and coat it with a generous amount of olive oil. Add the garlic and lightly sauté.


Toss in the fish and fry for a minute.


Add in the squid and fry for another minute.


Finally, add the prawns and toss all the seafood together for a minute or until the prawns turn pink.


Add some of the beans and toss them in with the garlic and seafood.


Add the saffron strands into the pan. Evenly distribute the strands and toss them together.

144 BBC GoodFood

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masterclass chef skills


Now add the tomato purée.


Sprinkle over the sweet paprika and thoroughly coat all the seafood in the tomato and paprika sauce.


Add rice to the pan and mix to coat the rice with the sauce.


Then add a bit of the fish broth to the pan and allow it to cook for 2 minutes. Note that the ratio of rice and broth should be 4:1.


Season with salt to taste. If the fish stock already has a bit of salt, be careful about over salting the paella.


Bring it to a boil, mix and allow it to cook for 5-10 minutes until the paella gets a creamy consistency. Remove any of the surfacing starch with the spoon.


Check if the rice has absorbed the broth.


Once it has, put it in the oven and lower the temperature to 180°C. Leave the paella in the oven for about 10 minutes.


Check if the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Remove from the oven and allow it to stand for 5 minutes. Garnish with a lemon slice and serve immediately.

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BBC GoodFood 145

masterclass diy

Give the versatile jackfruit a sweet and sour kick with this pucker-worthy chutney Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

Jackfruit chutney Serves 4 Q30 minutes QEASY This simple chutney uses all the trimmings of the jackfruit which otherwise would have been wasted. Enjoy it with cutlets, rolls, chips or just steamed rice, or use it as a spread for gourmet sandwiches with chicken or pork. raw jackfruit 100g, peeled and cubed, retain the seeds, trimmings or leftovers urad dal 1 tbsp red chillies 5-6, dried desiccated coconut 1 tbsp asafoetida (hing) a pinch red chilli powder 1 tsp salt to taste tamarind 1 tbsp QBoil the jackfruit with the seeds in a pressure cooker till tender, one whistle should be enough. QDry roast the urad dal and red chillies in a non-stick pan until toasted. Put the cooked jackfruit, urad dal, red chillies, coconut, asafoetida, chilli powder, salt and tamarind in a blender. Add a little water and blend to a smooth chutney. Serve with steamed rice.

146 BBC GoodFood

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New World wines Try the big bold flavours of New World wines Rohan Jelkie is Senior Manager – Beverage Education & Training at Tulleeho!, India’s premier beverage consultancy organisation. He’s an avid traveller and a trained wines and spirits educator with experience in running programmes in India, Sri Lanka and the Middle East.

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he term ‘New World’ refers to those countries that didn’t have a tradition of wine making and have taken to it only in the last few centuries. By and large, these are nonEuropean countries such as the United States, Canada, Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and India. Unlike Old World wines that take their names from the region that they come from, New World wines boldly carry the name of the grape varietals used to produce them. Hence, they are also sometimes called ‘varietal wines’. Firstly, irrespective of the producer, area or year, the name of the grape would appear prominently on the label in most cases. Second, the vintage year is not considered as important as with Old World wines. Wines from countries like Australia, New Zealand or the United Sates generally use just one or two grapes to create a wine. In contrast, those from traditional wine-producing areas such as Chateaneuf-du-Pape in France can have up to 13 grape varietals in a single wine! The most striking difference between wines from both worlds is that New World wine areas typically lie in warmer climatic belts than most of mainland Europe. This means that the vines get ample exposure to sunlight and thereby bear fruit that have higher sugar levels, which results in fullerbodied wines with marginally higher levels of alcohol. Most New World wine makers also retain their fruity character, making them more approachable to an inexperienced palate. In a nutshell, New World wines offer a great deal of variety to suit different taste profiles, which has cemented their popularity.


ra ou ou at , p f y s fl e tle f. I ot nif ast . a b a s e t ork on ake win ed c t t e rk co nd f th ain he s a d i a t ll t las an by pu a g rd, led ou to oa oi e y e in rdb n sp tim win y ca bee y er h of ould as h Ev las l m , it sp mel dull s n and ca


Farmingham Marlborough Classic Riesling, 2009, New Zealand (` 3,250, available at House of Spirits, Select Citywalk, Delhi) Pale gold with hints of green, this wine has citrusy and floral aromas with a touch of minerality. It has a lovely, soft feel in the mouth and a lengthy finish.

Nederburg Wine Master’s Reserve Shiraz, 2009, South Africa (` 1,655, available at Godrej Nature’s Basket outlets across the country) This rich and full-bodied Shiraz has aromas of ripe plum, berries and oak spice with a hint of cigars.

Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir, Australia (` 3,190, available at House of Spirits, Select Citywalk, Delhi) This is a vibrant, deep ruby-coloured sparkling wine with great aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry. The fruity sweetness is balanced by a crisp and lively finish.

Domaines Baron de Rothschild Los Vascos Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008, Chile (` 2,860, available at Juben Wines, Mumbai) This wine is well structured and balanced on the palate. It has notes of cedar, tobacco, cinnamon, white pepper and bitter chocolate.

Yering Station, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, 2009, Australia (` 3,750, available at Sartaj Wines, Delhi) This red has bright berry flavours with aromatic notes of vanilla and a soft, earthy complexity. Medium-bodied with delicate tannins, this is a great red to drink!

Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Moscato, 2009, USA (` 1,440, available at Ashok Gulrajani’s wine store, Jangpura Market, Delhi) This sweet wine has heady floral and citrus aromas on the nose, and a lively acidity that balances the residual sugars and adds a sparkle to the wine.

Beringer Estate Sauvignon Blanc, 2009, USA (` 2,595, available at Juben Wines, Mumbai) A white wine with very light colour and wonderful aromas of guava, lemongrass and grapefruit. Bright and lively, this one is easy to drink.

Man Vintner’s Chardonnay, 2011, South Africa (` 1,800, available at Ganpati Wines, Gurgaon) A refreshing Chardonnay made with a touch of oak for added complexity, it boasts of notes of melon and tropical fruit, and complements a wide range of foods.

BBC GoodFood 147

STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS 7777106 Baked camembert with garlic toasts 7777106 Beef and coriander noodle soup 777765 Carrot and hummus roll-ups 777768 Cobb salad with turkey and avocado 7777106 Garlicky bean salad with chorizo 777753 Green club sandwich 777765 Hot smoked salmon wrap 777774 Jackfruit kebabs 7777103 Minestrone in minutes 777754 Mock mayo sandwich 7777103 Mozzarella and salami ciabatta 777784 Pea, feta and quinoa spring rolls with roast tomato nam prik 777765 Prawn cocktail rolls 777780 Quinoa and courgette salad 7777105 Red rice salad with feta and pine nuts 7777126 Roast beetroot salad with goat’s cheese 777764 Roast pumpkin, blue cheese and sage tart 777782 Roasted tomato, halloumi and quinoa salad 7777102 Salmon and ginger fish cakes 7777123 Seafood broth 7777105 Smoky tomato soup 7777105 Spiced sweet potato salad with crisp noodles 777758 Spicy butter bean soup 777770 Spicy chicken, mango and jalapeño salad 777773 Sweet and spicy apple and jackfruit salad MAINS Egg 7777102 Asian prawn omelette 777790 Focaccia with egg white frittata, spinach, asparagus and mozzarella 7777104 Omelette Arnold Bennett 777760 Roasted red pepper hash with fried eggs 7777104 Spanish pepper and potato tortilla 7777106 Spicy egg wraps 7777106 Spinach tortilla wedges Meat 777730 Bloody mary bolognese 7777128 Lamb, harissa and almond sausage rolls

7 VEGETARIAN 7READY UNDER 30 MINUTES 7LOW FAT 777778 777783 777792

7777105 7777103 7777102 777760 777776

88 777762 7777104 777790

Poultry 777730 777792

777758 7777104 7777140

Rigatoni al forno Sausage and red cabbage one-pot Tamarind ginger beef scaloppina, wasabi mayo, spring onion slaw white baguette Chicken arrabbiata Chicken parmigiana ciabatta with rocket and marinated tomatoes Peking-style chicken with spring onion stir-fry Quick chicken chasseur Roti jala with chicken curry Spicy chicken rice Thai coconut chicken

7777106 7777102 Fish & seafood 7777128 Barbecued king prawns 7777130 Beer battered fish 7777102 Curry-crusted fish 777788 Garlicky prawns, sweet chilli mayo and red cabbage slaw on a hot dog bun 777768 Mackerel, beetroot and cucumber tartine

777104 777755 777762 777766 7777142 7777103 7777104 7777103 Vegetarian 777776 777770 777782 7784 777730 7777105 777788 777730 777700 777774

Prawn and spinach ramen noodles Prawn stew Quick prawn gumbo Rice noodles with prawn, edamame and grapefruit Seafood paella Smoked salmon with Asian dressing Spaghetti with crab, cherry tomatoes and basil Steamed fish with lemon, ginger and chilli Baked jackfruit stroganoff pie Crisp tofu with ginger and chilli Feta and pepper quinoa balls Fruit and pumpkin quinoa Gnocchi with creamy tomato and spinach sauce Gnocchi with lemon and chive pesto Hip street sandwich Instant deli pizza Jackfruit biryani Jackfruit gnocchi with fresh tomato and mozzarella sauce

Linguine with cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese Mushroom and thyme risotto Open-faced avocado, pickled red onion, pickled cucumber, kiwifruit and blue cheese crumble Pappardelle with lemon and sage mushrooms Pesto and parmesan spaghetti Rice noodles with sundried tomatoes, parmesan and basil Roasted cauliflower with barley and herbs Thai-style stir fry jackfruit

SIDES & SAUCES 7777130 Aioli 777728 Avla chutney 777728 Beetroot chutney 777788 Chilli cilantro pesto 777728 Dry coconut and garlic chutney 777792 Fig and shallot marmalade 777788 Garlicky herbal marinade 7777146 Jackfruit chutney 777784 Nam prik 777728 Papad chutney 777728 Peanut chutney 777728 Raw mango chutney DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND BAKING 777798 Baked pears with amaretti 7777131 Lamingtons 777711 Orange rind fruitcake 777796 Sgroppino 7777100 Spiced glazed pineapple with cinnamon whipped cream 777798 White chocolate and raspberry pots JAIN 7777102 7777105 777778 7777103 777796 777795 777796

DRINKS 777756 777756 777734 777756 777756 777756

Crunchy cauliflower cheese Griddled hallomui with spiced couscous Jackfruit kulfi Lemon curd and yoghurt fool Mango and passionfruit fool Pears with speedy choc sauce Rosewater and pistachio kulfi with griddled mangoes Chilli Bloody Mary Mango sticky rice Missionary’s Downfall Tangerine lemon Thai tang mou Tom yam siam


Recipe index

Shop talk AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodhall MG Mall, Trinity Usoor Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Sorbet – The gourmet food store No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop no.- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343

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Where to find everything from kaffir lime to quinoa

Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche  58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Defence Colony. Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919


Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket Tel: +91 11 40599916 Pigpo 9 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930 Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbour +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701 Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164 GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189 Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753 KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111

Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295 Nature’s Basket 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani Gardens, Powai Tel: +91 22 25707706 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 133, Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi Tel: +91 22 23526775

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Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909 Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, Opposite Union Park, Chembur Tel: +91 22 25203389 Regal Plus 1, Lourdes Haven, 10/A, Pali Naka, Bandra (W) Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ 26465070

Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E) Tel: +91 22 24155017 Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988

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PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket Mansur Ali Tower, 3, Galaxy Society, Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh Tel: +91 20 25889530 Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie Tel: +91 20 26806933

› ›

Gourmet Websites Delicious Now Farm2kitchen Foodesto Foodzig Gourmet Company Houseproud Local Banya Olive Tree Trading Pesca Fresh Zansaar

BBC GoodFood 151



HOW TO ENTER: Complete the questionnaire and mail it to Home TRENDS - Editorial Dept., Worldwide Media, The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr DN Road, Mumbai – 400 001. The prize draw closes at midnight on April 30, 2013. Terms and conditions apply.

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… Elle Decor

spotlight monica dogra

My life on a plate

Monica Dogra Monica Dogra is a musician, actress and indie artiste. Last seen in Kiran Rao’s Dhobi Ghat, Dogra hosts the Cannes Lion awardwinning travelogue and music show, The Dewarists. David, her latest Bollywood release hit the screen in February while Fireflies is due later this year. Here’s Dogra unplugged on matters of the palate

What is your earliest food memory? I remember being about four years old, coming home from kindergarten, and my mother saying she’d make me a special soft drink that would blow my mind. It definitely did. Later on, I found out that it was milk, shaken on ice, with a spoonful of sugar. How often do you cook? I hardly ever cook these days. If I have a spare minute, I usually make things like hummus, fresh salads, soups and things that make my system feel strong. To me, cooking is another form of art and meditation. Most prized kitchen tool you own? I’d have to say it’s my Bialetti espresso maker. I collect coffee beans from around the world on my travels. I grind them at home and make the best coffee in town. I would put my money on it! What’s your cooking style – relaxed and easy or kitchen Nazi? Totally relaxed and easy. I make a mess when I cook — it’s like Jackson Pollock hit my kitchen. I don’t like it when people tell me what to do when I’m cooking though. So I like not to be bothered and left to my own devices. What’s the one dish you’ll never touch? Well, I don’t eat meat. I was once offered reindeer heart while travelling in Norway, and it made my heart ache. 154 BBC GoodFood

Your dream party guest list includes… I’d love to cook for Jamie Oliver. I joke with friends that he’s my husband. Of course, he’s married and has kids. That only adds to why I love him so much. Maybe I’d love to cook for his family.

There’s no better comfort food than tomato soup with grilled cheese for Monica Dogra

If you had to cook a romantic meal, what would be on the menu? A romantic meal would be fully Italian, with Lambrusco wine. I’d make a pasta with a fresh cream sauce, and an arrabiata. Maybe a fresh basil pesto and plenty of fresh bread. Sage or garlic buttered bread perhaps. Your most beloved restaurant? The most epic meal I’ve ever had would have to be at La Giostra in Florence. My sister and I visited this Michelin-starred restaurant. The owner is an elderly gentleman who comes to the table to have a chat with you, and serves you with a flourish of his hand. It is truly a bastion for those seeking a mindblowing culinary experience. If you had to spend a day with any one chef, who would it be? Probably my mamiji in Jammu. She makes the most delectable Kashmiri Brahmin, vegetarian food. That’s the kind of cooking I enjoy. Pet peeve in a restaurant? Saying one thing on the menu, and serving something else. That tends to be a big problem in India.

“I make a mess when I cook — it’s like Jackson Pollock hit my kitchen. I don’t like it when people tell me what to do when I’m cooking and like to be left to my own devices”

If you had to open a restaurant, what kind of place would it be? I’d probably open an art café with only ten things on the menu. It would be minimalistic, like an extension of home. Your idea of comfort food… Tomato soup and grilled cheese. What is your signature dish? Probably a bread-fried goat’s cheese, fig and arugula salad. Your favourite food moment from a movie or book? I love it when Aamir (Khan) makes eggs for dinner in Dhobi Ghat. It’s just like I’ve seen so many careless artist-types live in Mumbai — eating eggs for every meal. APRIL 2013

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