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Introduction to effective climbing training  How your strength and other factors affect your climbing performance „There is no such thing as enough strength“ – looking at this quote by Franconian climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich, climbing and strength seem inextricably linked. Which climber doesn’t know the sensation, feeling strong and being able to overcome the omnipresent force of gravity for a short while? But pure muscular strength is just one part of your body’s own resources that you can train, and that are all equally important for the physical activity “climbing”. Climbing is more than  just pull-ups on a wall! wall! Turning to sports sports science, w we e would say that – regarding strength strength – there is a spectrum of different factors determining your performance, one of them being your health-related fitness (in contrast to skill-related fitness for example, like coordination or sport-specific techniques). Well then, so improving strength as one of the factors should also improve your performance, shouldn’t it? Unfortunately it’s not so easy! Exercise science more and more acknowledges that increasing your performance through training is a highly complex process where several interacting factors are involved, and which cannot be fully explained by linear models (Hottenrott & Neumann, 2010). Likewise, the traditional supercompensation model does not sufficiently explain physiological adjustments triggered by exercise and the complex interrelations involved in the process. Therefore exercise scientists increasingly develop new models, employing information from different scientific disciplines like molecular biology (Neumann & Berbalk, 1991) or human engineering (Olivier, Marshall & Büsch, 2008). Specific mental processes and psychological strain during training and the resulting processes of coping with this kind of stress also have to be considered (Schlicht, 1989). Some of these new models have already been adopted successfully in strength training, as the regulation of fitness and fatigue levels in dual factor theory. In contrast to supercompensation theory dual factor training regards fatigue and fitness as two separate processes, and therefore allows for a more complex planning of load, fatigue and performance (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer, 2008). Nevertheless, there is no model that is able to fully describe the interplay of all possible training stimuli with the human body. As a result, it is essential to attain a basic knowledge of contemporary exercise physiology as well as to listen to your own body and to trust a good coach and his experience. Let’s come back to strength as one aspect of your health-related fitness: You can’t optimize your climbing performance if you treat strength as a single, isolated component. We will try to keep everything as simple as possible but as complex as necessary. In order to utilize muscular strength for certain movements you always have to look at components of health-related fitness (such as maximum strength or strength-endurance) and skill-related fitness combined, as can be seen in the following chart:

Health-Related Aspects of Fitness 

Skill-Related Aspects of Fitness 

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Introduction to effective climbing training   

Fig. 1: Interactions between health- and skill-related aspects of fitness, both of which affect your performance You can only make the most of your health-related fitness (fig. 1, on the left) and utilize it efficiently if you manage to coordinate and control it while you actually move (fig. 1, on the right).  Studies even show that improving your strength very fast can have a negative impact right). on the coordinative skills needed for sport-specific sport-specific movements (Platonov, 1999). In the long run it is essential that you combine these elements in your training. However, it is even a bit more complex: Your mental state and tactics also play a role when you try to make use of your physical fitness. Noted exercise scientist Arturo Hotz even considers the enhancement of timing to be the true goal of physical exercise. It means the ability to perform the demanded or planned movement in a spatial and temporal perfectly attuned way, managing and conserving the available energy most effectively (Hotz et al., 2005).

Mental State Motivation, self-efficacy, etc.

Health-Related Fitness

Timing

Maximum strength, strength-endurance, etc.

Skill-Related Fitness Coordination, orientation, rhythm, etc.

Tactical Aspects Assessment of physical strain in a specific situation, planning of actions, etc.

Fig. 2: Timing as a key competence, in interrelation with health-related, skill-related, mental and tactical aspects (based on Hotz et al., 2005)

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Introduction to effective climbing training  This may sound somewhat abstract, and we would have to write a whole book about it to relate all the relevant details to the actual processes during training. However, your most important guiding principle should be: During your training, always try to achieve a balance and bear in mind all the four aspects!

How your muscles work We don’t want to be too theoretical, so let’s skip the usual scientific terminology and definitions. If you would like to deepen your knowledge on this topic, you will find useful references in the bibliography. Still, we need at least some basics – successful training requires a systematic and wellorganized approach, and thus you should have at least some concept of what you’re actually doing. The following chart illustrates the different ways that muscles work, which are also relevant for climbing:

Muscular Strength

Isometric (Static) Contractions

Dynamic Contractions

Concentric

Eccentric

(Lengthening) Contractions

(Shortening) Contractions

Plyometric Contractions (Stretch-Shortening Cycle)

Fig. 3: Different types of muscle contractions (based on Olivier et al., 2008) During an isometric (static) contraction your muscle is held at a fixed, constant length, i.e. there is a resistance, but no visible movement (for example, you’re hanging off a climbing hold). A shortening of the muscle generates concentric force: you move your muscle against a resistance, e.g. raising weights or your own body’s weight. A typical exercise would be p pullullups. An eccentric (negative dynamic) contraction means a controlled lengthening of the

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Introduction to effective climbing training  muscle due to a high load, e.g. you can’t hold a lock-off anymore and you have to lower your arms. A specific form of muscle action is the combined eccentric-concentric contracti contraction, on, also referred to as stretch-shortening cycle (SSC). An active, controlled lengthening of a muscle (eccentric contraction) is immediately followed by a shortening of the same muscle (concentric contraction). SSCs can be classified either as short (200 milliseconds, Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999). Many movements in sports (e.g.  jumping) involve such a stretch-shortening stretch-shortening cycle (Zatsiorsky (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer, 2008). In climbing, the SSC occurs for example before a climber performs a lunge for a dyno or while bumping.

Types of strength In addition to the different muscle contractions there are also several types of strength. The following chart shows a well-established well-established way to structure these types:

Maximum Strength Speed-Strength (Power)

Explosive Strength

Strength-Endurance

Reactive Strength

Fig. 4: The different types of strength (based on Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005 resp. Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999) Your maximum strength is the most basic type of strength; it is the maximum amount of force you can willingly exert. This voluntary effort differs from the maximum musculoskeletal force you are involuntarily capable of producing in one single contraction, i.e. by means of an electrical stimulation unit (absolute strength = 100%). Through exercising you can increase the percentage from 70% (untrained) up to approx. 95% (Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999). Your maximum strength is determined by the following factors: 1. The activation of your muscles by your nervous system 2. Size of the muscles (cross-sectional area) 3. Your muscle fiber composition: fast-twitch fast-twitch (type II or white muscle fibers = fast and powerful contractions, but fatigue quickly) and slow-twitch (type I or red muscle fibers = slow, low-intensity contractions, but high resistance to fatigue). The composition is genetically determined; however, you can increase the size of the existing fibers through exercise (this is called hypertrophy). 4 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training    Speed-strength enables you to produce the greatest possible impulse in a short amount of time (power = product of strength and speed). The ability to increase the force of this impulse as quickly as possible is called explosive strength (Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999). In climbing, this type of o f strength (your maximum dynamic strength) is required when you want to bump or perform a dyno.

Your speed-strength or explosive strength is mostly dependent on an ideal activation of your muscles by your nervous system and the amount of fast-twitch, white fibers in your muscles. Another type of strength is the so-called reactive strength. It is a combination of an eccentric contraction followed very quickly by a concentric one. In addition to the voluntary activation of your muscles the automatic stretch reflex (myotatic reflex, i. e. your nervous system regulates muscle length in response to a stretching of that muscle) also plays a role. Equally important is the capacity of the elastic components of your musculotendinous system (e. g. your tendons and deep fasciae) to store energy. These components gather energy through their elasticity (eccentric phase) and release it subsequently in the concentric phase (pretty much like a rubber band). Your tendons and muscle fasciae are therefore much more than  just “anchorage” points points of muscle to bone. They perform a vital function in the the development of your strength! Last but not least there is strength-endurance. strength-endurance. Muscular activity lasting up to 10 seconds involves a minimal strength loss due to the Anaerobic Alactic Energy System: strength is generated without requiring oxygen and the production of lactate. If activity lasts longer than 10 seconds your body has to fall back on a different, less efficient energy supply, the Anaerobic Lactate (Glycolytic) System: lactate is produced in the muscles, resulting in a loss of strength and fatigue. As a climber you are probably already familiar with this phenomenon, when your forearms begin to burn and eventually you have to let go of a hold. The better your body can handle the lactate (e. g. through improving your lactate clearance rate and your body's buffering mechanism) the slower you get tired.

Dimensions of strength in climbing performance The following chart shows the different types of strength as distinct dimensions (cf. Olivier et al., 2008) we can create an outline of climbing-specific strength:

High Maximum Strength Effort Maximum Strength Bouldering

Bouldering Long Boulder Problems

Speed/Explosive Strength (Power)

Maximum Strength Routes

Sport Climbing Endurance Routes

Strength-Endurance

Low Maximum Strength Effort 5 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training    Fig. 5: Requirements of bouldering/sport climbing and the different climbing-specific types of strength There is a clear emphasis on the dimensions “High Maximum Strength Effort”, “StrengthEndurance” and “Speed/Explosive Strength”. However, in contrast to other sports like weight lifting or rowing the requirements in climbing are much more diverse – which also means that you always have to make sure that you don’t neglect one of the types of strength in your training.

How to improve the different types of strength You can specifically train for a type of strength mentioned above; the respective basic methods are listed as follows. You should bear in mind that the numbers of repetitions and sets as well as indications concerning the intensity of the exercises e xercises can only be a guideline. To give more precise instructions is rather difficult due to gradual transitions and differing research findings.

How to train your maximum strength There are two basic methods of how to train your maximum strength (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer, 2008). 1. The Maximum Effort Method

Goal To improve the interaction between muscles and nervous system (intramuscular and intermuscular coordination)

Intensity/Force Very high up to maximum: Close to the maximum voluntary effort

Repetitions/Sets 1-6 reps (depending on the exercise)

Rest Periods Depending on the complexity of the exercise: 3-6 min.

2-4 sets

Explosive force (isometric, concentric or eccentric) This method is recommended for more advanced athletes and pros. Maximum effort training requires a high skill of agility and an experienced locomotor system to avoid injuries. It is mentally demanding and you should definitely stick to the recommended rest periods during training, even if your muscles feel recovered earlier. A rather fast progress is typical for this method, as most of it is caused by neuronal adaptation within a muscle (intramuscular coordination) or between groups of muscles (intermuscular coordination). With this method there is almost no hypertrophy (stimulus for muscle growth).

Further instructions:

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Introduction to effective climbing training  A technique to correctly determine the load for this method is to figure out your maximum strength (100%). However, with many of our exercises this might be rather complicated and it often didn’t turn out to be feasible. We concur with Boeckh-Behrens Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies (2005) who recommend identifying the number of maximum repetitions by trial and error and through additional weight or assisting counterweights.

2. The Submaximal Method or Repetition Effort Method (REM)

Goal Muscle growth (hypertrophy) and enhancement of motor coordination

Intensity/Force High: 70-80% of maximum voluntary effort

Repetitions/Sets 6-12 reps (depending on the exercise) 2-4 sets

Rest Periods Depending on the complexity of the exercise: approx. 3 min.

Isometric or concentric force, ranging from slow to more quick movements

Submaximal Method: You don’t have to repeat until failure (to the point of momentary muscular failure, where your muscle can no longer move), but you can stop shortly before that (e. g. 10 instead of maximum possible 12 reps). This is sufficient to trigger hypertrophy (muscle fiber growth), however, it is not enough to exploit the full number of muscular fibers that could be stimulated by a more enhanced neural drive (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer, 2008). We recommend this method for beginners. The Repetition Effort Method (REM): The most important condition for this kind of training is to repeat until failure (e. g. you do pull-ups until you can’t pull yourself up any more). In addition to a hypertrophic stimulus there is also an increase in muscle units that are stimulated by your neural drive (enhancement of communication between slow and fast muscle fibers). This method requires a certain experience to estimate your maximum number of reps, and is therefore suitable for more advanced athletes and pros. To find the right number of reps you can try variations of exercises that allow you to “shorten” your limbs and therefore alter your leverage (e. g. bending your lower legs or tucking up your legs altogether when performing a front lever), which makes it much easier to perform the necessary number of reps.

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Introduction to effective climbing training  How to train your speed and explosive strength (power) The Explosive Submaximal Method (cf. Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005)

Goal Increase in power

Intensity/Force Medium:

Repetitions/Sets 3-15 reps (depending

Rest Periods Depending on the

(power = product of strength and speed)

40-70% of maximum voluntary effort

on the exercise)

complexity of the exercise: approx. 3 min. (complete recovery is important!)

2-6 sets Explosive force (usually concentric)

This method is particularly suitable for advanced athletes and pros – for them this kind of training should definitely be part of their workout. Training speed and explosive e xplosive strength is often neglected, even though explosive strength is essential for climbing moves! It helps you to optimize your movements and your intermuscular coordination in general. You should choose the number of repetitions in a way that your muscles are not exhausted too quickly.

How to train your reactive strength Goal • Improved neural activation of the muscle • Improved elastic energy storage in your tendons and muscular deep fasciae

Intensity High up to maximum: 80-100% of maximum voluntary effort

Repetitions/Sets 5-10 reps (depending on the exercise) 2-4 sets

Rest Periods Depending on the complexity of the exercise: 3-6 min. (complete recovery is important!)

Explosive force (reactive)

This method is only suitable for pros. It requires a lot of experience, and you could easily get injured. Certain campus board exercises are perfect for improving your reactive strength (see exercise descriptions).

How to train your strength-endurance The Medium Effort/High Repetitions Method (cf. Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005)

Goal Improved fatigue

Intensity Medium to high:

Repetitions/Sets 15-30 reps

Rest Periods Depending on the

resistance during movements that require a high amount of strength

40-80% of maximum voluntary effort

(depending on the exercise)

complexity of the exercise: 1-5 min. (usually no complete recovery

2-6 sets

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Introduction to effective climbing training   

Ranging from slow necessary) to more quick movements This method is suitable for everyone. It is a basic method to train your climbing-specific strength-endurance.

Some general advice for your strength s trength training

To achieve the long-term goal of improving your performance in a certain sport through strength training (which is our philosophy) you need to know some basic principles. Below are the ones we consider to be most important; where it is necessary, we added a short explanation.

  Vary your strength training

•

Whereas for example weight lifting (maximum and explosive strength) or rowing (strength-endurance) (strength-enduranc e) involve predominantly one type of strength, the requirements of climbing are a great deal more diverse: Short climbing tours or bouldering requires high maximum and explosive strength. Traversing or longer climbing routes demand strength-endurance. strength-enduranc e. As no route and no move are the same climbing is mostly a mix of the different types of strength. If you want to improve your performance (and don’t want to be a complete specialist for only one type of climbing) you have no choice: You always have to bear in mind the development of your maximum strength, your explosive strength and your strength-endurance. On top of that your muscles need isometric (static), concentric (dynamic) and eccentric-concentric eccentric-concentric (plyometric) stimuli, as all of them are needed for climbing as well.

  Vary your repertory of exercises

•

As mentioned previously, training is a complex process of adaptation. Your body adjusts to new stimuli and tries to balance them out to conserve valuable resources. Therefore it is important to systematically vary your exercises and confront your body with unexpected tasks. As studies show this results in a particularly effective adaptation stimulus (for a summary see Rhea & Alderman, 2004). If you always stick to the same training routine and the same exercises, at some point you won’t make any further progress, as your body is already adjusted to its environment (homeostasis). How often you should change your exercises, which exercis exercises es you should choose and how long you can stick to a specific exercise is a very individual issue, it is also part of the so-called training periodization. As a rule of thumb you should change your exercises every 6 weeks.

  Train complex and sport-specific

•

Complex training means that your exercises are always performed in regard to a more or less complex movement as your goal. This helps to develop your strength economically during sport-specific movements. Your muscles work together in socalled slings: These are muscle groups that are functionally connected and thereby allow for economical sequences of movements (Tittel, 1994). During climbing you mainly make use of your upper extremity flexor sling. We recommend that you 9 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training  include first and foremost exercises in your training where the athlete’s own body weight provides the resistance for a specific movement. These exercises usually allow for a greater freedom in their execution and can be more easily related to climbingspecific movements where your body is providing p roviding the resistance as well. Weight machines are only suitable to a limited extent, e. g. for a specific rehabilitation training after injury. Internationally renowned exercise e xercise scientists Zatsiorsky & Kraemer (2008) say: “The most serious shortcoming of many weight machines is that they were developed to train muscles instead of movements. For an athlete they therefore don’t constitute the most important area of training”.

  Train with an adequate load

•

As previously mentioned it is crucial that you choose an adequate load to stimulate your muscle fibers. It is also important to consider different components that are part of your training. Turning to exercise science (e. g. Weineck, 2007) these components are intensity (stimulus strength), work-to-rest ratio, duration, extent (length of your training and amount of stimulus produced) and frequency (number of training sessions per day/week). For example, if you can easily work a one-arm lockoff for 5 seconds, then 2 sets with 5 second-lock-offs will produce a rather small stimulus – therefore you have to increase the difficulty. Depending on your training goal this can mean for example increasing the duration (longer one-arm locking-off times), the intensity (additional weight), or shorter rest periods. At the same time, getting started with a new, more difficult exercise (or a difficult boulder problem) often requires a reduction of your training load (or in this case, reducing the resistance of your own body weight). The number of repetitions and how you should finish an exercise is determined by different criteria according to your training goals (for a summary see Preuß et al., 2006): - Maximum number of repetitions: your set ends after afte r the last fully executed repetition of your exercise - Point of momentary muscular failure (MMF): after the last fully executed repetition you keep going until you are unable to continue - Point of momentary muscular failure plus high-intensity training methods (PMF+): At the point where a complete repetition fails you either try to hold it statically for a short period of time and then release at a controlled, slow speed or you have a training partner assist you with the repetition. This equally applies to bouldering/climbing. If your training goal is to increase your strength you should plan a systematic workout for bouldering/climbing according to the above-mentioned criteria, depending on further objectives of your strength training.

  Train progressively

•

This is a classic training principle (Weineck, 2007). In accordance with your own training goals it is important to systematically increase health-related, skill-related, tactical and mental challenges step by step (also see fig. 2). Other areas may compensate an unbalanced progression for a while, but in the end there will be stagnation in performance. The problem is that many climbers see the cause of this stagnation in something else, until some time has passed and changing your training is getting more and more difficult! There are many different options to give your 10 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training  muscles a further challenge: Increase the volume (e. g. more sets), the intensity (e. g. more difficult boulder problems or exercises), skill-related challenges (e. g. more complex exercises) or tactical challenges (e. g. enter a competition).

  Train with objectives in mind

•

Here is an example: To prepare yourself you rself for climbing in Ceüse it is rather useless to train mainly on a campus board or with boulder problems that require a high maximum strength effort (most people will probably already know that). But how do the top all-around climbers manage both bouldering as well as redpointing or lead climbing? The secret is a very broad-based workout that always trains strengthendurance, maximum strength and  explosive  explosive strength. Depending on specific challenges (Ceüse: sustained endurance climbing and compact limestone rock) you concentrate on certain aspects without neglecting the other ones. In sports science this is called non-linear or undulating periodization (Kraemer & Fleck, 2008). This very diverse and multi-faceted training is particularly suitable for climbers!

  Train your antagonists

•

Antagonists are “opposing” muscle groups; in this case it refers to the muscles that are scarcely used during sport-specific movements. In climbing for example the upper extremity extensor sling and some muscles attached to the shoulder blade are usually neglected. This underdevelopment leads to imbalances in your musculoskeletal system, and eventually may be the cause for discomfort or injuries due to the one-sided strain. It should therefore always be your goal to train your climbing muscles as well as your antagonist muscles. This will help you to put together a well-planned workout that keeps you free from injuries in the long run and to make your movements more economical and functional. You should spend 520% of your strength training (depending on the training phase) to work on your antagonist muscles. Keep in mind to use enough resistance!

  Complete a certain proportion of your training under mental pressure p ressure

•

Climbing involves certain situations that cause mental stress: Your arms are pumped and you are meters above the last protection, or on the last day of your climbing holiday the sun is already setting and you only have one last try for your boulder problem. You have to learn to cope with these situations if you confidently want to handle them. It helps to implement these kinds of conditions into your training from time to time (time pressure, climbing or bouldering with pumped arms, competing against others). It usually works out best to train this on a climbing or bouldering wall  – and it’s a lot of fun!

  Optimize your recovery periods

•

Totally exhausting yourself is easy. The real art is to plan rest periods in a way that your body can recover from a workout and at the same time gives your body the chance to actually improve performance. This applies to rest days during your weekly training as well as to longer regeneration phases throughout the year. As training for strength is a very complex process there is no universally applicable rule how much time is needed to recover, and everyone reacts in a different way. However, it is crucial to plan some time for recovery at all , even if you feel motivated and really want to improve! If your motivation starts to fade away and if there is no more 11 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training  progress (in spite of providing enough stimulus) these might be the first signs of overtraining. This can lead to tedious problems and overload injuries, which can compromise your performance and your overall health for a very long time! Training basics:

Before you get started here are some training basics you should keep in mind: 1.  Always warm up Ideally you should activate your cardiovascular system first, e. g. you could do some easy running (general warm-up). If you can’t go for a run you can also do some gymnastic exercises (e. g. jumping jacks, single-legged hoppers, double-legged jumps, basic jumps). Then you should perform a quick stretching routine (hold the stretch for about 8 seconds). After that do some strength exercises at a low or middle intensity (e. g. some quick lock-offs at the climbing wall or locking off in different pull-up positions). p ositions). Afterwards turn to some coordinative exercises you know from gymnastics (e. g. turning cartwheels or dive rolls). Last but not least perform a more specific warm-up at low or middle intensity at the climbing or bouldering wall, depending on the goal of your training session. 2.  First technique, then strength When you plan your training session keep in mind that you should always perform exercises that require mainly technical skills prior to health-related he alth-related exercises. This means bouldering or climbing first, strength training second. More complex forms of training (e. g. simulating a competition) that train several aspects of performance at once should also come first, less complex forms of training come second (e. g. system training). 3.  Don’t train your reactive/explosive strength when you’re exhausted You should try to plan your training sessions in a way that you don’t have to perform exercises for reactive or explosive strength when you’re already exhausted. You don’t have to do these exercises right at the beginning, but don’t burn yourself out completely beforehand. If you don’t overdo it, some bouldering at first is not a problem. But bouldering at maximum effort for 2 or 3 hours prior to intensive campus training is a no-go. Some further advice we would like to give you is about your general attitude towards training, which we think is very important. Asking yourself some questions prior to your training (leaving aside exercises and repetitions) can be of great assistance: Recommended attitude I respect my body and accept its individuality – I cannot plan

Problematic attitude My body is a machine that I can program and that has to function properly the way I

everything I’m focused on my training

want it I’m under a lot of stress and I only train to come to terms with something else I’m over-motivated and I will make

I’m motivated and I’m looking

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Introduction to effective climbing training  forward to train I’m curious how the training will go today and I often think of new exercises I have a training plan and I know what to do next

everything work out, by hook or by crook I’m stuck in my routine and I only train because I have the feeling that I have to

I have some reasonable goals I want to achieve through training After my training I allow myself to enjoy some rest and relaxation

I don’t have any goals I want to achieve through my training After the training there is other stress waiting for me

I don’t have a plan and do my training willy-nilly

Special training methods

Aside from the above-mentioned basic training methods there are also some special methods we would like to share with you.

  Complex Training

•

Complex Training (not to be confused with complex strength training, which resembles circuit training) is suitable mostly for highly trained athletes who don’t seem to be able to increase their strength any further (Ebben, 2002). Complex Training is basically training in supersets: the first set with an intense reactive or explosive strength exercise and the second set with a similar plyometric p lyometric exercise. This only works for exercises that require a high explosive effort of course (e. g. performing a front lever is not suitable as you are first and foremost training your isometric strength). The number of repetitions of the second (plyometric) set should be 3-10 (Hörst, 2008). Regarding the length of rest periods between the two sets of a superset, recommendations recommendations range from no rest at all (Hörst, 2008) up to 3 minutes (Ebben, 2002). Either way, it is essential to fully recover between supersets (up to 5 minutes)! •

Intensity Training   High High Intensity Training (HIT) has gained popularity mainly in weightlifting and other fitness-oriented sports. A full description of this method would be beyond the scope of this book, but you will find further information in the bibliography (→ Gießing, 2010). As a general rule only one, sometimes two sets are performed. You can increase the intensity of this set by extending the time you need for the movement. The standard rep timing is 4-2-4 (e. g. for pull-ups, this means you pull up u p for 4 seconds, hold the top position for 2, and then lower back down for another 4 seconds). There shouldn’t be more than 10 repetitions in a set (ideally 5-8) as you can always increase the duration of a repetition to make it more demanding. You have to choose your load in a way that you’re not able to perform another full repetition at the end of one set (point of momentary muscular failure). One of the benefits of this method is that it takes very little time (one or two 30-minute training sessions per week are sufficient). This method is particularly suitable for advanced athletes, but it can also be useful for fo r beginners.

  Long-duration Isometrics

•

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Introduction to effective climbing training  Described by Eric Hörst (2012), the goal of this method is the activation of as many muscle fibers as possible. It involves isometric (static) exercises, holding the contraction for 30-60 seconds. Therefore climbing-related exercises that require an isometric effort are particularly suitable for this training method (e. g. pull-ups, lockoffs on the campus board, system training or finger strength exercises). e xercises). •

variations of your movements   Different Usually concentric exercises are performed as a single smooth, continuous movement. To provide further stimulus and increase the intensity of the exercise you can also vary these movements. There are several options (cf. Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005): Peak Contraction: Hold it at the end of the contraction for about 2-3 seconds Stutter Repetition: Perform a repetition with several isometric holds (2-3 seconds) on the way (e. g. when you do pull-ups) End Contraction: At the end of the contraction perform several much smaller, additional contractions

  Core Training

•

The ‘core’ basically refers to the bodily region between your shoulders and knees (hip/pelvic girdle, spinal musculature, abdominal region). According to Gustedt (2013) this area of your body is generally responsible for generating strength, and is therefore the basis and starting point for every movement you make. The total number of muscles in this area adds up to 29, and there are two different muscle groups: local and global muscle groups. They differ in the type of muscle fiber (slowtwitch and fast-twitch) and in the extent of muscle activation in respect to the amount of resistance. Hence we can distinguish between core strength (global muscle groups: large movements of the trunk) and core stability (local muscle groups: stabilizing the spinal column and holding it in alignment). As these muscles work in sync they should be trained together (Gustedt, 2013). To achieve this you can do exercises that require movement and a stabilization of your body at the same time. You can also use unstable implements (the sling trainer for example is perfect for this kind of training). How our book is set up

You will find several options how you can train your strength and other climbing skills. There is generally an emphasis on strength exercises of any kind; however, the chapter “Bouldering Wall” provides you with the full range of relevant activities to improve your climbing skills (see fig. 2). Every chapter starts with a short description of the specific “training tool” and the respective types of strength involved. Afterwards you will find exercises that have proved to be most successful in our coaching work. The given numbers of repetitions/sets as well as the length of rest periods are based on our experience, and commonly used in our training. Of course you can deviate from them and also vary in your training methods. Nevertheless, the numbers provided may help you to get started. To make it easier for you we made a distinction between exercises for beginners, more advanced athletes and pros, based on average values. In the end, what matters 14 © Copyright by Café Kraft GmbH

 

Introduction to effective climbing training  most is your individual experience and judgment: if you used to do a lot of gymnastics it will be a lot easier for you to use rings than th an for someone who has never had any experience with rings whatsoever. We also indicated which exercises mainly train your explosive and reactive strength, as these kinds of exercises are often overlooked in climbing training. Last but not least some advice about how to plan your training: Beginners

The focus of your training should be on climbing and bouldering (about 70-80%). General strength exercises should constitute about 20-30% of your training (to increase your body tension and strengthen your shoulder girdle). More specific strength exercises like isolated finger training should only be part of your training occasionally (not more than 5%). Don’t forget f orget to train your antagonists! Advanced athletes

If you already work with training plans you should systematically vary your exercises, your training methods and the training volume over the course of a year (periodization). The amount of specific strength exercises should generally increase a bit (10-20%), while general strength exercises can be reduced to 10-20%. 10 -20%. Training your antagonists is still essential! At least 60% of your training should be climbing and bouldering. Pros

As a pro you work with training plans and probably also with a coach, who should analyze your strengths and weaknesses, compile your training plans and talk them over with you. The focus should be on your remaining weaknesses. Specific highintensity training methods like working on your explosive strength on the campus board can constitute up to 40% of your training. Even so, bouldering and climbing should always take up at least half of your training time!

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