Gdansk In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Gdańsk  No. 48, December 2015 - April 2016

inyourpocket.com               ł

   z    5      8    4  .    o    N

Including Sopot & Gdynia

Contents

          

Feature

Further A�eld 8

Malbork 

102

Arrival & Transport

12

Leisure

106

City Basics

18 20

Shopping

1122 11

Basic History

Directory

120

Culture & Events

22

Restaurants

Hotels

121

Polish Food

28 48

Maps & Index

Cafés

60

Nightlife

64

Ghosts of Post-War Modernism

129 130 132 132 134 136 137 138

Gdańsk Centre Map Gdańsk City Map Sopot Map Gdynia Map

Regional Map

Sightseeing Essential Hevelius Freie Stadt Danzig Günter Grass World War II

73 86 88 90 92

Solidarity

96

Street Index Listings Index Features Index

IN PRINT  ONLINE  ON YOUR MOBILE 

Many buildings from the Communist modernism era have lost their sparkle. Read more about Sopot’s Alga Pavilion on page 8. Photo: sopot.fotopolska.eu

                     facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Foreword As we prepare to send this off to the printer, another year is coming to a close and we have time to reflect on the year just finishing and the new one approaching. This has been an extremely positive year for the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia, with as many foreign visitors as we can remember in the 15 years we have been here; new places to visit – the biggest opening unquestionably being the Museum of Emigration in Gdynia and a steady improvement in the choice and quality of places to eat. While service still by and large sucks, the food coming out of the kitchens keeps getting b etter, regardless regardless whether it’s simple snack food or the height of fine dining. Best of all for the visitor is that prices remain extremely competitive if compared to most of Europe. It’s an over-used line by tourism boards and marketing agencies (of which we are neither), but there really has not been a better time to visit.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Offi ce & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Manager:  Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676  Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Accountant: Joanna Accountant: Circulation 15,000 copies published three times a year Editorial Editor: Martin Editor:  Martin Kitson; Research Manager: Anna Manager:  Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Researchers:  Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Layout:  Tomáš Haman; Events: Events: Maria  Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All Photography:  All photographs In Your Pocket  unless  unless otherwise stated; Cover  Courtesy of Sopot City Hall Cover Courtesy

And 2016 promises to get even better. The Museum of World War II is the key event in the local tourism market for 2016 and there’s also the small matter of us introducing a brand new app (should be available on IOS and Android by the time you read this), the introduction of a new events section which will dramatically improve our events info and more developments to our website which not only makes it easier for you to navigate the city, but also opens up lots of content that we simply cannot fit between these covers.

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsw Manager: Klaudia Manager:  Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager:  Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdansk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Manager:  Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note  Text, maps and photos copyright WIY P Sp. z o. o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket  is  is used under licensefromUABInYourPocket(Bernardinu9-4,Vilnius,Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).  The editorial content of In Your Pocket  guides   guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

2016 will also see us celebrate of the 50th issue of this little magazine. 50 might not sound many, but when you do three a year......... So enjoy your stay, take a look at our website and app and stay in touch with what’s going on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Youtube (links throughout the guide) or drop us a line at [email protected]

 ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC

SWITZERLAND ITALY

AUSTRIA HUNGARY SLOVENIA CROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYRMACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

Gdańsk sk I In n Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online at inyourpocket.com, is a radically redesigned and restructured resource which places the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover. The new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. Meantime, back in the world of print, we are close to completing the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP:: watch this space for more info. IYP  To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket , follow us on Facebook  (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter  (twitter.com/inyourpocket). gdansk.inyourpocket.com

December 2015 - April 2016

3

Foreword As we prepare to send this off to the printer, another year is coming to a close and we have time to reflect on the year just finishing and the new one approaching. This has been an extremely positive year for the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia, with as many foreign visitors as we can remember in the 15 years we have been here; new places to visit – the biggest opening unquestionably being the Museum of Emigration in Gdynia and a steady improvement in the choice and quality of places to eat. While service still by and large sucks, the food coming out of the kitchens keeps getting b etter, regardless regardless whether it’s simple snack food or the height of fine dining. Best of all for the visitor is that prices remain extremely competitive if compared to most of Europe. It’s an over-used line by tourism boards and marketing agencies (of which we are neither), but there really has not been a better time to visit.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com Company Offi ce & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Manager:  Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676  Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Accountant: Joanna Accountant: Circulation 15,000 copies published three times a year Editorial Editor: Martin Editor:  Martin Kitson; Research Manager: Anna Manager:  Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Researchers:  Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska; Layout: Tomáš Layout:  Tomáš Haman; Events: Events: Maria  Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All Photography:  All photographs In Your Pocket  unless  unless otherwise stated; Cover  Courtesy of Sopot City Hall Cover Courtesy

And 2016 promises to get even better. The Museum of World War II is the key event in the local tourism market for 2016 and there’s also the small matter of us introducing a brand new app (should be available on IOS and Android by the time you read this), the introduction of a new events section which will dramatically improve our events info and more developments to our website which not only makes it easier for you to navigate the city, but also opens up lots of content that we simply cannot fit between these covers.

Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsw Manager: Klaudia Manager:  Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager:  Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdansk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Manager:  Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note  Text, maps and photos copyright WIY P Sp. z o. o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket  is  is used under licensefromUABInYourPocket(Bernardinu9-4,Vilnius,Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).  The editorial content of In Your Pocket  guides   guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

2016 will also see us celebrate of the 50th issue of this little magazine. 50 might not sound many, but when you do three a year......... So enjoy your stay, take a look at our website and app and stay in touch with what’s going on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Youtube (links throughout the guide) or drop us a line at [email protected]

 ABOUT IYP Our new digital platform, online at inyourpocket.com, is a radically redesigned and restructured resource which places the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover. The new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. Meantime, back in the world of print, we are close to completing the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP:: watch this space for more info. IYP

ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC

SWITZERLAND ITALY

AUSTRIA HUNGARY SLOVENIA CROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYRMACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4

 To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket , follow us on Facebook  (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter  (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Gdańsk sk I In n Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

What is the Tri-city? While this guide is called Gdansk In Your Pocket, it is worth noting that it is a guide to the whole of, what the locals call, Trojmiasto (Tri-city). The Tri-city is made up of three cities (Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia) each proudly independent; each with its own city government and mayor and most importantly each with its own history. For the sake of clarity this guide is named after the city which is the o ldest, largest and best known internationally. Gdansk is recognised as being over 1,000 years old, a city that has been fought over for centuries by Poles and Germans, Russians and Swedes to name just a few, but which has a rich yet sometimes tragic history. Sopot developed as a spa resort developing a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Gdynia meanwhile is a city which was born with a purpose little under one hundred years ago. Today’s city was conceived to represent Polish independence and to give the country access to the sea. It was built to challenge and resist the power of Gdansk and though the world has changed a lot in the last century it still often sees itself playing the role of yang to Gdansk’s ying.

GDANSK

 The growth of the the cities in the the past 60 years has has meant that the spaces and boundaries between them have gradually been filled and whittled away to the point where there is now an almost seamless conurbation running over 40km along the Baltic coast from Gdansk in the south to Gdynia in the north.

Sopot is one of the country’s most famous and fashionable towns particularly in the summer months when it often feels that half of the capital has decamped here to see and be seen. The town’s modern history began with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired French doctor in Napoleon’s army and its reputation continued to grow through the first few decades of the 20th century when, as part of the German Empire and then as a part of the Free City of Gdansk, it became the summer home and playground for many of Europe’s ruling classes. Kaiser Wilhelm II, for instance, had a summer home here.

For the purpose of brevity we have joined the three cities together in this guide but please note the city name included next to each review as they may literally be in a different city to the one you are in.

Gdansk has been a cosmopolitan city for centuries and has welcomed people of all nationalities and creeds for the vast majority of them. On two occasions it has even been a state in its own right and traditionally people from here would describe themselves as Danzigers (to use the German name) or Gdańszczanin (to use the Polish) which demonstrates the unique nature of this once great port city. Seen as the main tourist attraction in the region, thanks to its long, rich history and beautifully rebuilt old town, Gdansk is also the region’s economic powerhouse. And don’t forget that this is the city where two of the key moments in 20th century history took place – the first shots of WWII were fi red here while 40 years later the first cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity movement.

SOPOT

 Today, Sopot is once again a hip and happening place  Today, place with its trendy nightlife making it the Tri-city’s party town. Its sandy and sheltered beaches and range of top class hotel and spas, kilometres of cycle routes and forest paths makes it a popular place to come and relax.

GDYNIA 

GDYNIA

SOPOT

GDAŃSK 

6

Gdańsk sk I In n Your Pocket

Gdynia is a city born out of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. The League of Nations’ decision to create the Free City of Danzig (Gdansk) left the neighbouring village of Gdynia in the newly reformed Polish state and at the end of the infamous Polish Corridor – the narrow strip of land granted to Poland to give it access to the sea. The quiet fishing village became the focus of huge development – construction began on May 21, 1921 and within 5 years a new city and major port had been created. While it lacks the 1,000 year history of its better known neighbour, Gdynia is a wonderful example of a 20th century city with its construction covering the Art Deco period of the 20s and 30s, the Socialist era of post-war Europe and the modern designs of the post-communist Poland. Sometimes seen as the serious brother of the three Gdynia has some beautiful beaches and walks as well as some good little restaurants, cafes and bars. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

NEW ADDRESS FROM FEBRUARY 2016! NOWY ADRES OD POŁOWY LUTEGO 2016!

DOM ZDROJOWY, SHOPPING MALL

Until mid-February, we invite you to our boutique in the ‘Crooked House’ at ul. Jana Jerzego Haffnera 6 Do połowy Lutego 2016 zapraszamy do butiku w Krzywym Domku przy ulicy Jana Jrzego Haffnera 6

What is the Tri-city? While this guide is called Gdansk In Your Pocket, it is worth noting that it is a guide to the whole of, what the locals call, Trojmiasto (Tri-city). The Tri-city is made up of three cities (Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia) each proudly independent; each with its own city government and mayor and most importantly each with its own history. For the sake of clarity this guide is named after the city which is the o ldest, largest and best known internationally. Gdansk is recognised as being over 1,000 years old, a city that has been fought over for centuries by Poles and Germans, Russians and Swedes to name just a few, but which has a rich yet sometimes tragic history. Sopot developed as a spa resort developing a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Gdynia meanwhile is a city which was born with a purpose little under one hundred years ago. Today’s city was conceived to represent Polish independence and to give the country access to the sea. It was built to challenge and resist the power of Gdansk and though the world has changed a lot in the last century it still often sees itself playing the role of yang to Gdansk’s ying.

GDANSK

 The growth of the the cities in the the past 60 years has has meant that the spaces and boundaries between them have gradually been filled and whittled away to the point where there is now an almost seamless conurbation running over 40km along the Baltic coast from Gdansk in the south to Gdynia in the north.

Sopot is one of the country’s most famous and fashionable towns particularly in the summer months when it often feels that half of the capital has decamped here to see and be seen. The town’s modern history began with the building of a bathhouse and spa by a retired French doctor in Napoleon’s army and its reputation continued to grow through the first few decades of the 20th century when, as part of the German Empire and then as a part of the Free City of Gdansk, it became the summer home and playground for many of Europe’s ruling classes. Kaiser Wilhelm II, for instance, had a summer home here.

For the purpose of brevity we have joined the three cities together in this guide but please note the city name included next to each review as they may literally be in a different city to the one you are in.

Gdansk has been a cosmopolitan city for centuries and has welcomed people of all nationalities and creeds for the vast majority of them. On two occasions it has even been a state in its own right and traditionally people from here would describe themselves as Danzigers (to use the German name) or Gdańszczanin (to use the Polish) which demonstrates the unique nature of this once great port city. Seen as the main tourist attraction in the region, thanks to its long, rich history and beautifully rebuilt old town, Gdansk is also the region’s economic powerhouse. And don’t forget that this is the city where two of the key moments in 20th century history took place – the first shots of WWII were fi red here while 40 years later the first cracks in the Iron Curtain were forced open by the Solidarity movement.

SOPOT

 Today, Sopot is once again a hip and happening place  Today, place with its trendy nightlife making it the Tri-city’s party town. Its sandy and sheltered beaches and range of top class hotel and spas, kilometres of cycle routes and forest paths makes it a popular place to come and relax.

GDYNIA 

GDYNIA

SOPOT

GDAŃSK 

6

Gdynia is a city born out of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. The League of Nations’ decision to create the Free City of Danzig (Gdansk) left the neighbouring village of Gdynia in the newly reformed Polish state and at the end of the infamous Polish Corridor – the narrow strip of land granted to Poland to give it access to the sea. The quiet fishing village became the focus of huge development – construction began on May 21, 1921 and within 5 years a new city and major port had been created. While it lacks the 1,000 year history of its better known neighbour, Gdynia is a wonderful example of a 20th century city with its construction covering the Art Deco period of the 20s and 30s, the Socialist era of post-war Europe and the modern designs of the post-communist Poland. Sometimes seen as the serious brother of the three Gdynia has some beautiful beaches and walks as well as some good little restaurants, cafes and bars.

Gdańsk sk I In n Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

NEW ADDRESS FROM FEBRUARY 2016! NOWY ADRES OD POŁOWY LUTEGO 2016!

DOM ZDROJOWY, SHOPPING MALL

Until mid-February, we invite you to our boutique in the ‘Crooked House’ at ul. Jana Jerzego Haffnera 6 Do połowy Lutego 2016 zapraszamy do butiku w Krzywym Domku przy ulicy Jana Jrzego Haffnera 6

Feature 1  The three cities each have their own distinct architectural styles, another fact which makes a visit to the Tri-city all the more interesting. From Gdansk’s rebuilt Hanseatic old town through Sopot’s late 19th and early 20th century Secessionist or Art Nouveau influenced villas and Gdynia’s 20th century modernist style with its buildings heavily influenced by the ships in the nearby harbour, the Tri-city has a lot to offer those interested in architecture.

to: sopot . oto otoppols a. u

 The post-war post-war modernist modernist style is somethin somethingg thatconnects the three cities though and each has its own examples, which are worth searching out. Some of these buildings are slated for demolition although there appears to be a growing campaign not just to prevent some from being demolished but instead to have the buildings listed and properly restored to their 1950s, 1960s or 1970s glory. A number of Poles have recognised that, love them or hate them, some of their communist era buildings were considered revolutionary and cutting-edge designs at the time they were unveiled. It has also been realised, possibly through the loss of other such buildings around the country, that these buildings represent a period of Poland’s history that cannot simply be airbrushed from memory. Many older Poles are increasingly nostalgic as well, maybe not for the government of that time, but for the memories they have of the period. Finally, new developments such as the one in lower Sopot, have met with quite a bit of local criticism for a perceived lack of character and not reflecting the atmosphere of the city. The new developments have sometimes rekindled love for the old, dilapidated buildings of the post-war period.

Reminders of Communist architecture

Here are some of the better known example of post-war modernism in the Tri-city. Some are detested; some rather loved, but most are in need of investment.

 ALGA  It might be diffi cult to image but the block at the end of Monte Cassino in Sopot that today houses, among others, the restaurant of famous Polish chef Adam Gessler U Kucharzy and club of rock star Nergal, was once considered a remarkable piece of design and its opening in 1960 was hugely anticipated.

 The three cities may each have have their own distinctive architectural style but they all share one - Communist era modernism 8

Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 There is one style and period, however, which is often overlooked and the creations of which are today ignored and unloved. The post-war modernist style is largely unloved for a few different reasons. First of all, this style represents the communist era and is disliked by many for that alone. Others see the style as ugly, unfeeling and harsh both in style and types of materials used. Quite often the quality of materials used was sub-standard, due to economic considerations, and this has resulted in already difficult to love buildings becoming eyesores as they have deteriorated and not been maintained.

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 Towards the end of the 50s and the start of the 60s there  Towards was a growing demand for buildings to serve the retail and dining sectors to the point that the Ministry of Internal Trade facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Photo: sopot.fotopolska.eu

ordered that efforts be improved in this sector. Public design competitions were held in department stores and dining halls around the country and Sopot, a rapidly growing tourist city, was earmarked for one of the new designs. Much like now, the existing cafes and restaurants were located in the small street level units of the main street’s residential buildings, so the architects Jan Cichy, Bronisław Gawryluk and Andrzej Sierakowski tried to come up with something that was larger, could handle more guests and reflect the newer styles and trends in global architecture.  The new pavilionwas openedon July July 4,1960 and namedAlga after a public consultation (names suggested and rejected included Atomowa, Sodom and Gomorra and Papu-Papu).  The new pavilion pavilion was an instant instant hit with people flooding flooding to visit and to eat there. The building operated on two floors, both of which were open plan with lots of light thanks to the large windows on two sides. Unlike many projects in Communist Europe, the the architects’ designs were not later compromised because of a lack of funding or materials. If you stand back and look at the whole building it is still possible, despite the ravages of time, the destruction of the original concept and the plethora of signs, to see the two elements of the original project. First there is the main building – the white, two-storey cuboid which makes up the main part of the building. In front of the building were two terraces, the upper terrace detached from the main building and connected by three bridges. The upper terrace was covered by the design feature which was the most striking characteristic of the Alga Pavilion. – orange, translucent polyester sheets held up by two steel pillars. Inside the building you would have found a huge selfservice cafeteria serving up to 200 people at a time, stood or seated at high bar tables, a bar, a kitchen and a laundry. Upstairs was a café, dance hall and cocktail bar. The upstairs was accessed by staircases at either end of the building and the décor featured lots of stone and wood - black terracotta tiles on the floor for instance and wood panelling in the rooms. The seating was made of metal and used rich dark blues and red colours in its cushioning while marble and mahogany reflected the funding the project received, which allowed it to bring in the best available designs and equipment available in the Eastern Bloc. December 2015 - April 2016 9

Feature 1  The three cities each have their own distinct architectural styles, another fact which makes a visit to the Tri-city all the more interesting. From Gdansk’s rebuilt Hanseatic old town through Sopot’s late 19th and early 20th century Secessionist or Art Nouveau influenced villas and Gdynia’s 20th century modernist style with its buildings heavily influenced by the ships in the nearby harbour, the Tri-city has a lot to offer those interested in architecture.

to: sopot . oto otoppols a. u

 The post-war post-war modernist modernist style is somethin somethingg thatconnects the three cities though and each has its own examples, which are worth searching out. Some of these buildings are slated for demolition although there appears to be a growing campaign not just to prevent some from being demolished but instead to have the buildings listed and properly restored to their 1950s, 1960s or 1970s glory. A number of Poles have recognised that, love them or hate them, some of their communist era buildings were considered revolutionary and cutting-edge designs at the time they were unveiled. It has also been realised, possibly through the loss of other such buildings around the country, that these buildings represent a period of Poland’s history that cannot simply be airbrushed from memory. Many older Poles are increasingly nostalgic as well, maybe not for the government of that time, but for the memories they have of the period. Finally, new developments such as the one in lower Sopot, have met with quite a bit of local criticism for a perceived lack of character and not reflecting the atmosphere of the city. The new developments have sometimes rekindled love for the old, dilapidated buildings of the post-war period.

Reminders of Communist architecture

Here are some of the better known example of post-war modernism in the Tri-city. Some are detested; some rather loved, but most are in need of investment.

 ALGA  It might be diffi cult to image but the block at the end of Monte Cassino in Sopot that today houses, among others, the restaurant of famous Polish chef Adam Gessler U Kucharzy and club of rock star Nergal, was once considered a remarkable piece of design and its opening in 1960 was hugely anticipated.

 The three cities may each have have their own distinctive architectural style but they all share one - Communist era modernism 8

Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 There is one style and period, however, which is often overlooked and the creations of which are today ignored and unloved. The post-war modernist style is largely unloved for a few different reasons. First of all, this style represents the communist era and is disliked by many for that alone. Others see the style as ugly, unfeeling and harsh both in style and types of materials used. Quite often the quality of materials used was sub-standard, due to economic considerations, and this has resulted in already difficult to love buildings becoming eyesores as they have deteriorated and not been maintained.

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 Towards the end of the 50s and the start of the 60s there  Towards was a growing demand for buildings to serve the retail and dining sectors to the point that the Ministry of Internal Trade

Photo: sopot.fotopolska.eu

ordered that efforts be improved in this sector. Public design competitions were held in department stores and dining halls around the country and Sopot, a rapidly growing tourist city, was earmarked for one of the new designs. Much like now, the existing cafes and restaurants were located in the small street level units of the main street’s residential buildings, so the architects Jan Cichy, Bronisław Gawryluk and Andrzej Sierakowski tried to come up with something that was larger, could handle more guests and reflect the newer styles and trends in global architecture.  The new pavilionwas openedon July July 4,1960 and namedAlga after a public consultation (names suggested and rejected included Atomowa, Sodom and Gomorra and Papu-Papu).  The new pavilion pavilion was an instant instant hit with people flooding flooding to visit and to eat there. The building operated on two floors, both of which were open plan with lots of light thanks to the large windows on two sides. Unlike many projects in Communist Europe, the the architects’ designs were not later compromised because of a lack of funding or materials. If you stand back and look at the whole building it is still possible, despite the ravages of time, the destruction of the original concept and the plethora of signs, to see the two elements of the original project. First there is the main building – the white, two-storey cuboid which makes up the main part of the building. In front of the building were two terraces, the upper terrace detached from the main building and connected by three bridges. The upper terrace was covered by the design feature which was the most striking characteristic of the Alga Pavilion. – orange, translucent polyester sheets held up by two steel pillars. Inside the building you would have found a huge selfservice cafeteria serving up to 200 people at a time, stood or seated at high bar tables, a bar, a kitchen and a laundry. Upstairs was a café, dance hall and cocktail bar. The upstairs was accessed by staircases at either end of the building and the décor featured lots of stone and wood - black terracotta tiles on the floor for instance and wood panelling in the rooms. The seating was made of metal and used rich dark blues and red colours in its cushioning while marble and mahogany reflected the funding the project received, which allowed it to bring in the best available designs and equipment available in the Eastern Bloc.

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December 2015 - April 2016 9

 Alga WHAT’S WHA T’S THERE THER E TODAY? BROWAR LUBROW TROJMIESKI A mini-brewery and restaurant offering a range of inhouse brewed beers to wash down the Polish staples on the menu. It’s not at all bad and it looks better on the inside than it does from the outside. But it’s just not us. The crowds normally found up the road at Browar Sopot seem to share our opinion.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 510 06 67 77, www.lubrow.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:00 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.UEG

LIBATION Found in the old Alga Pawilion, Libation is guaranteed to attract the crowds thanks to the fame of its owner Behemoth lead singer Adam Darski - better known to his fans as Nergal. He’s a local lad and has been fairly scathing about the quality of Sopot clubs and has decided to try to do something about it. The results are a fairly compact, darkened space with a smattering of leather effect sofas that attempt to achieve the ‘decadent atmosphere of pre-war Paris and Berlin, strongly inspired by the theatre’(their words not ours). It is aimed at a more select crowd than most of the clubs in town, with door selection and pricier drinks, while they have some pretty decent names lined up to perform live music and DJ sets. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 791 10 06 66.

MAKAHIKI As the name suggests, this place has a Hawaii theme with lots of bamboo and colourful shirts. It is extremely popular with the tri-city’s younger audience and packed at weekends when you’ll be bombarded by drinks promotions and teens going off their collective heads to the tops dance sounds of the day. If it’s carnage you want this is for you. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, tel. (+48) 788 66 66 22. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 04:00. EXW

U KUCHARZY Following many years of positive reviews of a similar venture in Warsaw, U Kucharzy (literally ‘With the chefs’) is now established in Sopot. Aside from a reputation for preparing Polish dishes simply but imaginatively the attraction here is the ability to sit in a room where the chefs prepare the food while you watch. Centred around an open cooking area a team of chefs buzz back and forth chopping, boiling, flipping and frying as you watch from the kitchen side tables. It’s never quite reached the impressive levels of its sister restaurant in the capital described by one reader using the words ‘chaotic..effi cient..del icious. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 554 14 76, www.gessler-sopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-65zł). T6UEGSW sk I In n Your Pocket 10 Gdańsk

 The second element element was the large triangular section to to the left. The architects were given this plot of land which only really allowed them a single front onto Monte Cassino but also gave them a narrow strip of land on ul. Grunwaldzka set next to an old residential building. The architects decided to use the steep sloping roo f of the neighbouring building as their guide and came up with this rather striking building which even today still serves its original purpose as flats and offi ces. The building als o benefitted fro m huge neon lights, which were so popular the time and a huge ALGA was lit up on the side of the residential section. The building was finished with two mosaics made with neutral coloured tile and glass and designed by Maria Leszczynska. Alga quickly became a Sopot landmark and postcards of the period demonstrate how popular and recognised it was. Which is why it is saddening to see it in its current sorry state. A lack of care and investment have seen it become uglier and more miserable over the years. Long gone are the signature roofs and neon lighting and the original open spaces have disappeared as the building has been split into smaller units. Even one of the mosaics was removed when a new staircase was put it. It’s now a mix of regularly changing bar and club businesses. After years of rumours that the building was just a final summer away from being demolished to make way for a development similar to that opposite, the city authorities have made attempts of late to get the place cleaned up. They have asked the owner to return the building to its original look by putting back the orange plastic roofing, repainting the building in its whites and greys and by opening up the terrace on the ground floor. The owner has promised to make improvements but little has changed so far.

Restauracja Villa Uphagena is a unique place for a festive lunch or dinner, an unforgettable wedding ceremony or a successful business meeting.

We have to hope that the building is given a facelift as too many of these old buildings have been pulled down, to Poland’s loss in our opinion. As those who have visited the Warsaw Central train station of late will know, it is possible to retain a communist era eyesore and even give it a makeover. We dare say it’s even possible to start to love some of these old commie buildings once again.

For 10 years Restauracja Villa Uphagena has treated its guests to t he delights of Polish cuisine. Our sophisticated setting transports our guests to the glamour and good taste of 19th century Gdańsk, across �ve unique rooms that can accommodate up to 100 pe ople.

Restaurant Villa Uphagena has also been selected for ongoing cooperation in the Polish Pavilion at the 2015 International Expo in Milan.

JANA UPHAGENA 23, GDAŃSK WRZESZCZ tel. +48 602 722 602, +48 58345 83 72 [email protected], restauracja@villa uphagena.pl, villauphagena.p villauphagena.pll Open: Mon – Sat 12:00 – 22:00, Sun 12:00 – 21:00 gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 Alga WHAT’S WHA T’S THERE THER E TODAY? BROWAR LUBROW TROJMIESKI A mini-brewery and restaurant offering a range of inhouse brewed beers to wash down the Polish staples on the menu. It’s not at all bad and it looks better on the inside than it does from the outside. But it’s just not us. The crowds normally found up the road at Browar Sopot seem to share our opinion.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 510 06 67 77, www.lubrow.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:00 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.UEG

LIBATION Found in the old Alga Pawilion, Libation is guaranteed to attract the crowds thanks to the fame of its owner Behemoth lead singer Adam Darski - better known to his fans as Nergal. He’s a local lad and has been fairly scathing about the quality of Sopot clubs and has decided to try to do something about it. The results are a fairly compact, darkened space with a smattering of leather effect sofas that attempt to achieve the ‘decadent atmosphere of pre-war Paris and Berlin, strongly inspired by the theatre’(their words not ours). It is aimed at a more select crowd than most of the clubs in town, with door selection and pricier drinks, while they have some pretty decent names lined up to perform live music and DJ sets. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 791 10 06 66.

MAKAHIKI As the name suggests, this place has a Hawaii theme with lots of bamboo and colourful shirts. It is extremely popular with the tri-city’s younger audience and packed at weekends when you’ll be bombarded by drinks promotions and teens going off their collective heads to the tops dance sounds of the day. If it’s carnage you want this is for you. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, tel. (+48) 788 66 66 22. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 04:00. EXW

U KUCHARZY Following many years of positive reviews of a similar venture in Warsaw, U Kucharzy (literally ‘With the chefs’) is now established in Sopot. Aside from a reputation for preparing Polish dishes simply but imaginatively the attraction here is the ability to sit in a room where the chefs prepare the food while you watch. Centred around an open cooking area a team of chefs buzz back and forth chopping, boiling, flipping and frying as you watch from the kitchen side tables. It’s never quite reached the impressive levels of its sister restaurant in the capital described by one reader using the words ‘chaotic..effi cient..del icious. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 554 14 76, www.gessler-sopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-65zł). T6UEGSW

 The second element element was the large triangular section to to the left. The architects were given this plot of land which only really allowed them a single front onto Monte Cassino but also gave them a narrow strip of land on ul. Grunwaldzka set next to an old residential building. The architects decided to use the steep sloping roo f of the neighbouring building as their guide and came up with this rather striking building which even today still serves its original purpose as flats and offi ces. The building als o benefitted fro m huge neon lights, which were so popular the time and a huge ALGA was lit up on the side of the residential section. The building was finished with two mosaics made with neutral coloured tile and glass and designed by Maria Leszczynska. Alga quickly became a Sopot landmark and postcards of the period demonstrate how popular and recognised it was. Which is why it is saddening to see it in its current sorry state. A lack of care and investment have seen it become uglier and more miserable over the years. Long gone are the signature roofs and neon lighting and the original open spaces have disappeared as the building has been split into smaller units. Even one of the mosaics was removed when a new staircase was put it. It’s now a mix of regularly changing bar and club businesses. After years of rumours that the building was just a final summer away from being demolished to make way for a development similar to that opposite, the city authorities have made attempts of late to get the place cleaned up. They have asked the owner to return the building to its original look by putting back the orange plastic roofing, repainting the building in its whites and greys and by opening up the terrace on the ground floor. The owner has promised to make improvements but little has changed so far.

Restauracja Villa Uphagena is a unique place for a festive lunch or dinner, an unforgettable wedding ceremony or a successful business meeting.

We have to hope that the building is given a facelift as too many of these old buildings have been pulled down, to Poland’s loss in our opinion. As those who have visited the Warsaw Central train station of late will know, it is possible to retain a communist era eyesore and even give it a makeover. We dare say it’s even possible to start to love some of these old commie buildings once again.

For 10 years Restauracja Villa Uphagena has treated its guests to t he delights of Polish cuisine. Our sophisticated setting transports our guests to the glamour and good taste of 19th century Gdańsk, across �ve unique rooms that can accommodate up to 100 pe ople.

Restaurant Villa Uphagena has also been selected for ongoing cooperation in the Polish Pavilion at the 2015 International Expo in Milan.

JANA UPHAGENA 23, GDAŃSK WRZESZCZ tel. +48 602 722 602, +48 58345 83 72 [email protected], restauracja@villa uphagena.pl, villauphagena.p villauphagena.pll Open: Mon – Sat 12:00 – 22:00, Sun 12:00 – 21:00

sk I In n Your Pocket 10 Gdańsk

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 Arrival & Transport Transport  ARRIVING BY PLANE GDANSK LECH WALESA AIRPORT Port Lotniczy Gdańsk im. Lecha Wałęsy (aka Wałęsy  (aka Gdansk Lech Walesa airport) is 8km west of Gdańsk centre in the Rębiechowo district. The modern, extended terminal (formerly terminal 2) handles both arrivals and departures with the old terminal now closed. After landing you enter the terminal building from the baggage hall where you’ll find a Gdańsk Tourist Organisation information point in front of you, car rental desks and ATM machines. A train service connects the airport with the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia although a change of train may be involved. You can reach the platforms, where you will find ticket machines, by taking the escalator to the left as you leave the baggage hall. Tickets cost 3.50zł 3.50zł to  to Gdansk and 6zł 6zł to  to Sopot or Gdynia. For more information see the PKM section opposite and check train times at rozklad-pkp.pl/en.. Neptun Taxi rozklad-pkp.pl/en Taxi   is the offi cial ta xi firm and can be trusted. Look out for their cars with the 19686 logo 19686  logo on the side. Be suspicious if offered a lift by any car not bearing their logo. We quote approximate prices below but these will be more at night and from Saturday at 22:00 until Monday at 06:00. If you want to catch a bus (210 to Gdansk, 122 to Sopot and 4A to Gdynia) you will find the bus stops directly across the road as you leave the terminal. Getting to Gdańsk  A taxi from the rank in front of the terminal will cost you about 60zł. Apart from early morning and late night trains, you’ll need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz and take the yellow/blue SKM train for the final three stops to Gdansk Glowny (Main) train station. The journey will take about 45 mins. Getting to Sopot You can also take the train to Sopot but you will need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz Gdansk-Wrzeszcz.. From Gdansk-Wrzeszcz you’ll need to get on a yellow/blue train running in the direction of Gdynia. Sopot is the sixth stop from Gdańsk-Wrzeszcz. The most direct way to reach Sopot is by taking a 19686 Neptun Taxi from outside the terminal building which will cost you around 70zł normally and more at night and on Sundays. Getting to Gdynia  The easiest way to get to Gdynia is via 19686 taxi and taxi and it will cost you 120zł 120zł to  to the centre of Gdynia with prices higher at nights and on Sundays. You can also reach Gdynia directly by train without the need to change thanks to a new connection via Osowa. You’ll need to take the train from the opposite platform and be careful to board a train which is going to Gdynia Glowna. Qul. Słowackiego 200, Gdańsk (Rębiechowo), tel. (+48) 525 67 35 31, www.airport.gdansk.pl. 12 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 Arrival & Transport Transport  ARRIVING BY TRAIN  The city is connected to to all major cities in Poland Poland with travel travel times subject to both delay and improvement as a major investment programme continues.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION When you arrive at Gdańsk Główny you are a stone’s throw away from Gdańsk Old Town. The building has been renovated and is now a much cleaner and fresher smelling place than before. You’ll find lockers, toilets, money exchange and McDonalds and KFC either in or next to the station.QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp. pl. Open 24hrs.

GDYNIA GŁÓWNA TRAIN STATION  The main railwaystation,built in the the modernist modernist style between the wars, has received a well-needed facelift. The city centre is signposted with the main street, ul. Świętojańska, a 10 minute walk away by turning right out of the station and following ul. 10-go Lutego. QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open 24hrs.

SOPOT TRAIN STATION L-4, ul. Marynarzy, Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Q

 ARRIVING BY CAR  There are three three main main routes routes into into theTri-city: the E28 from the the west via Gdynia; the E77 from the south-east which enters the city via Gdansk and the A1 highway from the south.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDAŃSK  Parking is available once you arrive in Gdańsk but remember that the old town area is permit parking only and you will be fined by the city police for driving into the old town without a pass. Watch out for the signs marking the start of the permit parking zone. You will have to use street parking which is paid for (3zł for the first hour) and you will need to buy a ticket at the street machine.

 ARRIVING BY BUS GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION Most national and international buses arrive at Gdańsk bus station (Dworzec PKS), up on the hill just behind the train station (Dworzec PKP). Give the main building, one of the decreasing number of remnants from the People’s Republic, a quick glance then head downstairs to the bus station hall. From there take the escalator down to the underground passage and follow the signs Centrum or Dworzec PKP. PKP. Walk through the passage past all the kiosks selling slippers and mobile phones until you see the EMPiK bookshop in front of you. Turn right and go up the steps to ul. Podwale Grodzkie and the old town lies about a 5 minute walk from there. QA-2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the offi ce is open 06: 30 - 18:30 .

 

 ARRIVING BY FERRY GDAŃSK � WESTERPLATTE FERRY PORT Polferries from Nynashamn, 60km south of Stockholm, arrive at Gdansk’s Westerplatte from May 9, 2015 (after years of docking on the opposite side of the waterway at Gdańsk’s Nowy Port). The ferry terminal is about 11km north of the centre. Bus N°s 106 and 138 run 138  run from Westerplatte to the Gdańsk Główny railway station. Alternatively, a taxi ride into the centre of Gdańsk costs about 30zł. If you have a car then you should follow signs to centrum, a journey that will take you about 15-30 minutes depending on the time of day. QJ-1, ul. Sucharskiego 70, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 343 18 87, www.polferries.pl. Open only before ferry sailings.

STENA LINE FERRY TERMINAL Stena Line ferries from Karlskrona, 500km south of Stockholm, arrive at the Gdynia ferry terminal. There is a currency exchange in the terminal. From Gdynia ferry terminal, take buses N° 150 or 4F 4F   to Gdynia Główna, the main train station in Gdynia (from where there are commuter trains to Gdańsk). A bus ticket costs 3zł (4zł for the faster 4F 4F),), and a taxi to the centre should come to around 20zł. If arriving by car you should follow the signs for Centrum which will bring you to the centre of Gdynia in about 10 minutes. Qul. Kwiatkowskiego 60, Gdynia (Obłuże), tel. (+48) 58 660 92 00, www.stenaline.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Mon 08:00 - 19:00 , Thu 07:00 - 21:30, Fri 06:00 - 19:30; Sat 07:00 - 09:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 09:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Y

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

                      

GDYNIA GŁÓWNA BUS STATION

If you are coming from the south you will need to negotiate the other two cities first. This is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road) which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 20 minutes. Gdynia itself is the best laid out of the 3 cities in terms of cars but even parking here is a challenge these days. Whether you are arriving from the south (Gdańsk) or the north (Gdynia) you are very likely to make the approach to Sopot via the main Al. Niepodległości road. Sopot city centre is quite small and, can get quite snarled up with traffi c during the summer months. There is street parking if you can find it with the area closest to the centre subject to parking tickets.

        

With no stand alone bus station in Gdynia buses and coaches use the area outside the main train station as their terminus. You can get to the main street, ul. Świętojańska by following ul.10-go Lutego, a walk that will take you about 10 minutes. QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia, www. pksw.pl.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDYNIA

ARRIVING BY CAR IN SOPOT

  

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PKM

 The Pomorska Kolej Metropolitalna (Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway) is the latest major infrastructure project to be opened in the region. Using a combination of updated, existing lines; lines which have been out of service for over half a century and brand new sections, the aim is to connect the three cities with the outlying region. One of the additional benefits is that the airport now has a direct rail connection with the city. Trains now run approximately every 15 minutes between the airport’s brand new station and Gdansk Wrzeszcz which means passengers travelling to and from Gdansk main train station and Sopot will have to change at Gdansk Wrzeszcz while there is a direct link with Gdynia. Tickets can be purchase d from ticket offi ces, ticket machin es on the platform or from the conductor and it is possible to buy a single ticket for the journey. Take Take a look at the new train service with this film from trojmiasto.pl Qtel. (+48) 58 721 21 70, rozklad-pkp.pl/en. Single ticket to/from Gdansk 3.50zł. Single ticket to/from Sopot or Gdynia 6zł. December 2015 - April 2016 13

 Arrival & Transport Transport  ARRIVING BY PLANE GDANSK LECH WALESA AIRPORT Port Lotniczy Gdańsk im. Lecha Wałęsy (aka Wałęsy  (aka Gdansk Lech Walesa airport) is 8km west of Gdańsk centre in the Rębiechowo district. The modern, extended terminal (formerly terminal 2) handles both arrivals and departures with the old terminal now closed. After landing you enter the terminal building from the baggage hall where you’ll find a Gdańsk Tourist Organisation information point in front of you, car rental desks and ATM machines. A train service connects the airport with the three cities of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia although a change of train may be involved. You can reach the platforms, where you will find ticket machines, by taking the escalator to the left as you leave the baggage hall. Tickets cost 3.50zł 3.50zł to  to Gdansk and 6zł 6zł to  to Sopot or Gdynia. For more information see the PKM section opposite and check train times at rozklad-pkp.pl/en.. Neptun Taxi rozklad-pkp.pl/en Taxi   is the offi cial ta xi firm and can be trusted. Look out for their cars with the 19686 logo 19686  logo on the side. Be suspicious if offered a lift by any car not bearing their logo. We quote approximate prices below but these will be more at night and from Saturday at 22:00 until Monday at 06:00. If you want to catch a bus (210 to Gdansk, 122 to Sopot and 4A to Gdynia) you will find the bus stops directly across the road as you leave the terminal. Getting to Gdańsk  A taxi from the rank in front of the terminal will cost you about 60zł. Apart from early morning and late night trains, you’ll need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz and take the yellow/blue SKM train for the final three stops to Gdansk Glowny (Main) train station. The journey will take about 45 mins. Getting to Sopot You can also take the train to Sopot but you will need to change at Gdansk-Wrzeszcz Gdansk-Wrzeszcz.. From Gdansk-Wrzeszcz you’ll need to get on a yellow/blue train running in the direction of Gdynia. Sopot is the sixth stop from Gdańsk-Wrzeszcz. The most direct way to reach Sopot is by taking a 19686 Neptun Taxi from outside the terminal building which will cost you around 70zł normally and more at night and on Sundays. Getting to Gdynia  The easiest way to get to Gdynia is via 19686 taxi and taxi and it will cost you 120zł 120zł to  to the centre of Gdynia with prices higher at nights and on Sundays. You can also reach Gdynia directly by train without the need to change thanks to a new connection via Osowa. You’ll need to take the train from the opposite platform and be careful to board a train which is going to Gdynia Glowna. Qul. Słowackiego 200, Gdańsk (Rębiechowo), tel. (+48) 525 67 35 31, www.airport.gdansk.pl.

 Arrival & Transport Transport  ARRIVING BY TRAIN  The city is connected to to all major cities in Poland Poland with travel travel times subject to both delay and improvement as a major investment programme continues.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION When you arrive at Gdańsk Główny you are a stone’s throw away from Gdańsk Old Town. The building has been renovated and is now a much cleaner and fresher smelling place than before. You’ll find lockers, toilets, money exchange and McDonalds and KFC either in or next to the station.QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp. pl. Open 24hrs.

GDYNIA GŁÓWNA TRAIN STATION  The main railwaystation,built in the the modernist modernist style between the wars, has received a well-needed facelift. The city centre is signposted with the main street, ul. Świętojańska, a 10 minute walk away by turning right out of the station and following ul. 10-go Lutego. QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Ticket office open 24hrs.

SOPOT TRAIN STATION L-4, ul. Marynarzy, Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Q

 ARRIVING BY CAR  There are three three main main routes routes into into theTri-city: the E28 from the the west via Gdynia; the E77 from the south-east which enters the city via Gdansk and the A1 highway from the south.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDAŃSK  Parking is available once you arrive in Gdańsk but remember that the old town area is permit parking only and you will be fined by the city police for driving into the old town without a pass. Watch out for the signs marking the start of the permit parking zone. You will have to use street parking which is paid for (3zł for the first hour) and you will need to buy a ticket at the street machine.

 ARRIVING BY BUS GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION Most national and international buses arrive at Gdańsk bus station (Dworzec PKS), up on the hill just behind the train station (Dworzec PKP). Give the main building, one of the decreasing number of remnants from the People’s Republic, a quick glance then head downstairs to the bus station hall. From there take the escalator down to the underground passage and follow the signs Centrum or Dworzec PKP. PKP. Walk through the passage past all the kiosks selling slippers and mobile phones until you see the EMPiK bookshop in front of you. Turn right and go up the steps to ul. Podwale Grodzkie and the old town lies about a 5 minute walk from there. QA-2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www.pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the offi ce is open 06: 30 - 18:30 .

GDAŃSK � WESTERPLATTE FERRY PORT Polferries from Nynashamn, 60km south of Stockholm, arrive at Gdansk’s Westerplatte from May 9, 2015 (after years of docking on the opposite side of the waterway at Gdańsk’s Nowy Port). The ferry terminal is about 11km north of the centre. Bus N°s 106 and 138 run 138  run from Westerplatte to the Gdańsk Główny railway station. Alternatively, a taxi ride into the centre of Gdańsk costs about 30zł. If you have a car then you should follow signs to centrum, a journey that will take you about 15-30 minutes depending on the time of day. QJ-1, ul. Sucharskiego 70, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 343 18 87, www.polferries.pl. Open only before ferry sailings.

STENA LINE FERRY TERMINAL

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 Arrival & Transport Transport

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN *.

CAR RENT RE NTAL AL

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. While the issue of poor roads is being addressed the sheer size of the network means this is still a problem par ticularly when travelling outside of and not between major cities. The biggest problem though is dangerous drivers resulting in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. While we do not advise against driving in Poland, where new roads and driver education programmes are making driving here less fraught, we do wish to make a number of points clear to the foreign driver. Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will often find yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to a tiny 900cc banger. Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly find yourself in a s ituation where traffic is blocked behind said lorries/banger. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing down on your vehicle. For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drinkdriving laws: 0.2‰ 0.2‰ is  is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and passport at all times when driving and make sure you have the car’s documentation with you.  The speed limit is 50km/hr 50km/hr in  in cities (60km/hr ( 60km/hr between  between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr 90km/hr outside  outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on hr  on dual carriageways and 140km/hr 140km/hr on  on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. It is compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times.

GUARDED PARKINGQB-2, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdańsk. * NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE. CONTACT: tel: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

PKM

 The Pomorska Kolej Metropolitalna (Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway) is the latest major infrastructure project to be opened in the region. Using a combination of updated, existing lines; lines which have been out of service for over half a century and brand new sections, the aim is to connect the three cities with the outlying region. One of the additional benefits is that the airport now has a direct rail connection with the city. Trains now run approximately every 15 minutes between the airport’s brand new station and Gdansk Wrzeszcz which means passengers travelling to and from Gdansk main train station and Sopot will have to change at Gdansk Wrzeszcz while there is a direct link with Gdynia. Tickets can be purchase d from ticket offi ces, ticket machin es on the platform or from the conductor and it is possible to buy a single ticket for the journey. Take Take a look at the new train service with this film from trojmiasto.pl Qtel. (+48) 58 721 21 70, rozklad-pkp.pl/en. Single ticket to/from Gdansk 3.50zł. Single ticket to/from Sopot or Gdynia 6zł. December 2015 - April 2016 13

 Arrival & Transport Transport BY CAR

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL.

 

 ARRIVING BY FERRY

Stena Line ferries from Karlskrona, 500km south of Stockholm, arrive at the Gdynia ferry terminal. There is a currency exchange in the terminal. From Gdynia ferry terminal, take buses N° 150 or 4F 4F   to Gdynia Główna, the main train station in Gdynia (from where there are commuter trains to Gdańsk). A bus ticket costs 3zł (4zł for the faster 4F 4F),), and a taxi to the centre should come to around 20zł. If arriving by car you should follow the signs for Centrum which will bring you to the centre of Gdynia in about 10 minutes. Qul. Kwiatkowskiego 60, Gdynia (Obłuże), tel. (+48) 58 660 92 00, www.stenaline.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Mon 08:00 - 19:00 , Thu 07:00 - 21:30, Fri 06:00 - 19:30; Sat 07:00 - 09:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 09:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Y

12 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

                      

GDYNIA GŁÓWNA BUS STATION

If you are coming from the south you will need to negotiate the other two cities first. This is best done by use of the Obwodnica (ring road) which will get you to the centre of Gdynia in about 20 minutes. Gdynia itself is the best laid out of the 3 cities in terms of cars but even parking here is a challenge these days. Whether you are arriving from the south (Gdańsk) or the north (Gdynia) you are very likely to make the approach to Sopot via the main Al. Niepodległości road. Sopot city centre is quite small and, can get quite snarled up with traffi c during the summer months. There is street parking if you can find it with the area closest to the centre subject to parking tickets.

        

With no stand alone bus station in Gdynia buses and coaches use the area outside the main train station as their terminus. You can get to the main street, ul. Świętojańska by following ul.10-go Lutego, a walk that will take you about 10 minutes. QN-1, Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia, www. pksw.pl.

ARRIVING BY CAR IN GDYNIA

ARRIVING BY CAR IN SOPOT

  

GUARDED PARKINGQO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22 (Mercure Gdynia Centrum Hotel), Gdynia.

GUARDED PARKINGQL-4, ul. Chopina 8, Sopot.

A wide range of cars from the Ford Fiesta to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website. QB-2, ul. Wały Piastowskie 1/1502A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 609 23 54 24, www.joka.com. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours op en by prior arrangement.

EUROPCARQul. Słowackiego 206 (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 30 16 24, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:30. HERTZ Also at ul. Słowackiego 210 (Airport). QB-2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 40 45, www.hertz.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

PRIVATE PRIVA TE TRANSPORT TR ANSPORT JOVI TRANSPORT Professional airport transfer to anywhere in the city. Most convenient probably if you are staying in one of their range of apartments. Prices are 80zl one-way. You can book direct online via their website. Qtel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.  joviapartments.com.

TRAVEL GDANSK  A local company offeing chauffer driven car and mini-van services. As well as taking you to and from the airport/ port, Travel Gdansk can also transport you to places like Malbork, Frombork, Stutthof and Szymbark (amongst other destinations) or arrange accompanied tours for you. Qtel. (+48) 510 31 30 31, www.travelgdansk.pl.

TRIP2GDANSK  A fleet of Volkswagen Caravelle and Mercedes minibuses available for private hire manned by friendly, trustworthy drivers. Good value for a group needing airport transfer, private tours to places such as Malbork, Stutthof or Kashubia or transport to one of the city’s attractions such as the golf course or go-carting track. Prices available upon request. Qtel. (+48) 533 53 30 33, www.przewozygrupowe.pl.

GUARDED PARKINGQB-4, ul. Św. Ducha (near Wybrzeże Theatre), Gdańsk.

GUARDED PARKINGQD-5, ul. Pszenna 1 (across

STRA Ż MIEJSKA 

Also at Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9 (Scandic Hotel) Słowackiego 210 Qul. (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 348 12 89, www.avis. pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Y

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In Polish cities you’ll typically see two types of uniformed law enforcement. One is the police, the other is the local City Guard (Straż Miejska) and you’re more likely to come across one of them during your stay in the city.  The City Guard was created following the fall of Communism and began appearing on the streets of Gdansk in 1991.Their role is to focus on local law enforcement and although they do not have the full powers of arrest as the police it is their role to maintain public ord er in the city; manag e traffic in the restricted zones of the main town including dealing with parking and traffic violations and above all to assist citizens in the city. During the hig h season offi cers from the reg ion who are able to speak foreign languages are re-deployed to the city and to the nearby b eaches. These o fficers are easy to identify as they wear badges showing which languages they speak. While the Tri-city is in general a safe city, petty crime does exist and travellers are warned to show common sense with their personal belongings such as carrying your wallet or passport in a secure pocket and not in a  jacket left casually lying around. around. Those travelling travelling by car are asked to beware of the restricted parking zones in the centre of Gdansk and to pay and display a parking ticket where necessary.  The most common reason foreign visitors visitors fall foul of the law is for disturbing the peace by imbibing too heavily or for making too much noise particularly late at night.  The other well-known ways tourists fall foul of the City Guard is for jaywalking. You’ll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing – take heed, they know that being caught crossing on a red signal or at a point where there is no marked crossing can result in an on-the-spot fine of around 100zl. Don’t think you are exempt exempt by being a visitor; In fact your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).  The City Guard have asked us to p oint out that they sincerely hope everyone who visits the city enjoys themselves and returns home safely. If you do find yourself in need of advice, directions or assistance they are happy to help and will contact the police on your behalf if it is something beyond their jurisdiction.

from Novotel Hotel), Gdańsk. 14 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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December 2015 - April 2016 15

 Arrival & Transport Transport

 Arrival & Transport Transport BY CAR

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL. ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN *.

GUARDED PARKINGQB-2, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdańsk. * NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE. CONTACT: tel: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

STRA Ż MIEJSKA 

CAR RENT RE NTAL AL

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. While the issue of poor roads is being addressed the sheer size of the network means this is still a problem par ticularly when travelling outside of and not between major cities. The biggest problem though is dangerous drivers resulting in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. While we do not advise against driving in Poland, where new roads and driver education programmes are making driving here less fraught, we do wish to make a number of points clear to the foreign driver. Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will often find yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to a tiny 900cc banger. Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly find yourself in a s ituation where traffic is blocked behind said lorries/banger. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing down on your vehicle. For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drinkdriving laws: 0.2‰ 0.2‰ is  is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your licence and passport at all times when driving and make sure you have the car’s documentation with you.  The speed limit is 50km/hr 50km/hr in  in cities (60km/hr ( 60km/hr between  between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr 90km/hr outside  outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on hr  on dual carriageways and 140km/hr 140km/hr on  on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. It is compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times.

GUARDED PARKINGQO-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22 (Mercure Gdynia Centrum Hotel), Gdynia.

GUARDED PARKINGQL-4, ul. Chopina 8, Sopot.

Also at Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9 (Scandic Hotel) Słowackiego 210 Qul. (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 348 12 89, www.avis. pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Y A wide range of cars from the Ford Fiesta to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website. QB-2, ul. Wały Piastowskie 1/1502A, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 609 23 54 24, www.joka.com. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours op en by prior arrangement.

EUROPCARQul. Słowackiego 206 (Airport), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 30 16 24, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:30. HERTZ Also at ul. Słowackiego 210 (Airport). QB-2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 40 45, www.hertz.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

PRIVATE PRIVA TE TRANSPORT TR ANSPORT JOVI TRANSPORT Professional airport transfer to anywhere in the city. Most convenient probably if you are staying in one of their range of apartments. Prices are 80zl one-way. You can book direct online via their website. Qtel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.  joviapartments.com.

TRAVEL GDANSK  A local company offeing chauffer driven car and mini-van services. As well as taking you to and from the airport/ port, Travel Gdansk can also transport you to places like Malbork, Frombork, Stutthof and Szymbark (amongst other destinations) or arrange accompanied tours for you. Qtel. (+48) 510 31 30 31, www.travelgdansk.pl.

TRIP2GDANSK  A fleet of Volkswagen Caravelle and Mercedes minibuses available for private hire manned by friendly, trustworthy drivers. Good value for a group needing airport transfer, private tours to places such as Malbork, Stutthof or Kashubia or transport to one of the city’s attractions such as the golf course or go-carting track. Prices available upon request. Qtel. (+48) 533 53 30 33, www.przewozygrupowe.pl.

GUARDED PARKINGQB-4, ul. Św. Ducha (near Wybrzeże Theatre), Gdańsk.

GUARDED PARKINGQD-5, ul. Pszenna 1 (across

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In Polish cities you’ll typically see two types of uniformed law enforcement. One is the police, the other is the local City Guard (Straż Miejska) and you’re more likely to come across one of them during your stay in the city.  The City Guard was created following the fall of Communism and began appearing on the streets of Gdansk in 1991.Their role is to focus on local law enforcement and although they do not have the full powers of arrest as the police it is their role to maintain public ord er in the city; manag e traffic in the restricted zones of the main town including dealing with parking and traffic violations and above all to assist citizens in the city. During the hig h season offi cers from the reg ion who are able to speak foreign languages are re-deployed to the city and to the nearby b eaches. These o fficers are easy to identify as they wear badges showing which languages they speak. While the Tri-city is in general a safe city, petty crime does exist and travellers are warned to show common sense with their personal belongings such as carrying your wallet or passport in a secure pocket and not in a  jacket left casually lying around. around. Those travelling travelling by car are asked to beware of the restricted parking zones in the centre of Gdansk and to pay and display a parking ticket where necessary.  The most common reason foreign visitors visitors fall foul of the law is for disturbing the peace by imbibing too heavily or for making too much noise particularly late at night.  The other well-known ways tourists fall foul of the City Guard is for jaywalking. You’ll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing – take heed, they know that being caught crossing on a red signal or at a point where there is no marked crossing can result in an on-the-spot fine of around 100zl. Don’t think you are exempt exempt by being a visitor; In fact your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).  The City Guard have asked us to p oint out that they sincerely hope everyone who visits the city enjoys themselves and returns home safely. If you do find yourself in need of advice, directions or assistance they are happy to help and will contact the police on your behalf if it is something beyond their jurisdiction.

from Novotel Hotel), Gdańsk. 14 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

December 2015 - April 2016 15

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 Arrival & Transport Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT  Travelling between the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot is a cinch, and best done using the SKM kolejka (commuter train). These yellow and blue trains run more or less every 10-15 minutes between 05:00-19:00 through the Tri-city and less frequently outside of these hours with trains also running occasionally between 00:00 and 04:00.  Tickets can be bought from modern ticket machines nes which can be found on most platforms and have instructions in English and a couple of other languages. Alternatively you can buy tickets in main stations where you see the sign for Kasa Biletowa or as a last resort from the conductor at the front of the train. If you buy tickets from the Kasa Biletowa make sure that you stamp them with the time in the bright yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them.  Ticket prices are dependent on the number of stops you are travelling but a journey from Gdańsk Gdańsk to Gdynia will cost 6.00zł and 6.00zł  and take about 35 minutes (Sopot will cost 4.00zł and take about 20 minutes). Bikes travel for free and should be carried in a specially marked carriage usually at one end of the train. Children under 4 travel for free although you also have to buy a 0zł 0zł ticket  ticket (we kid you not) and you are likely to be requested to provide proof of the child‘s age so basically keep passports on you at all times. ISIC cards will get you a student discount but only if you’re a Polish student, while Euro 26 cards are not valid. You will have to pay a fine if caught travelling without a validated ticket by one of the plain clothes inspectors.

TROLLEYBUSES, TRAMS AND LOCAL BUSES (ZKM/ZTM) can also zip you around the relevant cities.  Tickets are issued by Gdańsk and Gdynia. Gdańsk tickets allow you to travel in Gdańsk (and Sopot) and Gdynia tickets allow you to travel in Gdynia (and Sopot). If buying a ticket in Sopot you will need to buy a ticket for the direction you are heading i.e. Gdańsk or Gdynia.

TICKET PRICES Single - 3.00zł, 3.00zł, 60  60 minute ticket - 3.60zł 3.60zł,, Single ticket for use on a ‘fast’line - 4.00zł 4.00zł,, 60 minute ticket for ‘fast’lines 4.60zł,, 24-hour ticket - 12zł 4.60zł  Tickets can be bought from kiosks or an increasing number number of ticket machines which have English and German language options. If you‘re planning on staying longer then there is the Metropolitan ticket which gives you travel in the cities for 24 hours - the first type covers SKM local trains and then buses, trolleybuses and trams in EITHER Gdansk or Gdynia and costs 17zł 17zł ( (8.50zł 8.50zł reduced) or a second version which is all travel in all 3 cities at 20/10zł 20/10zł.. These are available from SKM and ZTM points not the machines. A recommended way to avoid having to decide on which ticket and then having to negotiate how to get it with the woman in the kiosk is to pick up a Gdańsk - Sopot - Gdynia Plus tourist card. As well as the discounts and free entry to many of the sights that the card brings, you will also be entitled to free travel on the whole Tri-city transport network. Pick it up at the tourist information points around the city.

NATIONAL TRAINS AND BUSES If you are looking to travel out of the city you will need to use the national PKP (trains) or PKS (bus) services. For trains you find arrival (Przyjazdy) and departure (Odjazdy) times marked on a board in the main station building with the timetables displayed on A1 size cards (departures on a yellow card and arrivals on a white card). Main line train services run from all three stations in the Tri-city as well as Gdansk-Oliwa and Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. Regional and national bus services (such as services to Frombork) run from Gdansk Bus Station which you will find perched on the hill overlooking the train station.  The bus bus station on can be reached reached viathe tunnel tunnel entered entered via the the stairs outside the main train station and KFC.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION A-2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www. pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30 - 18: 30. Q

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION  Tickets for international  Tickets international routes can now be purchased purchased from all ticket desks. QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

TAXIS Although most taxis are now trustworthy with honest meters, there are still certain drivers who will quite happily take advantage of your ignorance and overcharge for journeys. To guard against this ensure that you use a taxi which is clearly marked. The firms listed below are all reliable with Neptun being the only firm allowed to sit outside of the airport terminal building. Look out for 19686 19686 on  on the sides of their cabs. Taxis are slightly cheaper if called in advance. If calling one of the abbreviated numbers such as 19686 19686 please  please be aware that you may need to prefix it with 58 58 if  if calling from your mobile.

HALLO TAXI �GDAŃSK� tel. (+48) 58 301 59 59, www.hallotaxi.gda.pl.

Q

MONTE TAXI �SOPOT� tel. (+48) 58 555 14 14, www.montetaxi.pl.

Q

NEPTUN TAXI �GDAŃSK�

RESTAURANT � ORANGERY � WINERY � TERRACE � BANQUET ROOMS � SALON PRIVE

 The only sanctioned firm at the airport with some Englishspeaking operators. Mini-vans are also available and if you are planning a journey outside of the city special rates are available for places such as Stutthof, Malbork and Frombork. You can pay by credit card and American Express. Qtel. (+48) 58 511 15 55, www.neptuntaxi.pl. Y

NON�STOP TAXI �GDYNIA� tel. (+48) 58 625 01 01.

Q

SUPER HALLO TAXI �GDAŃSK� tel. (+48) 602 31 91 91, www.superhallo.pl.

Q

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sk I In n Your Pocket 16 Gdańsk

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 Arrival & Transport Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT  Travelling between the three cities of Gdańsk, Gdynia and Sopot is a cinch, and best done using the SKM kolejka (commuter train). These yellow and blue trains run more or less every 10-15 minutes between 05:00-19:00 through the Tri-city and less frequently outside of these hours with trains also running occasionally between 00:00 and 04:00.  Tickets can be bought from modern ticket machines nes which can be found on most platforms and have instructions in English and a couple of other languages. Alternatively you can buy tickets in main stations where you see the sign for Kasa Biletowa or as a last resort from the conductor at the front of the train. If you buy tickets from the Kasa Biletowa make sure that you stamp them with the time in the bright yellow boxes on or close to the platform to validate them.  Ticket prices are dependent on the number of stops you are travelling but a journey from Gdańsk Gdańsk to Gdynia will cost 6.00zł and 6.00zł  and take about 35 minutes (Sopot will cost 4.00zł and take about 20 minutes). Bikes travel for free and should be carried in a specially marked carriage usually at one end of the train. Children under 4 travel for free although you also have to buy a 0zł 0zł ticket  ticket (we kid you not) and you are likely to be requested to provide proof of the child‘s age so basically keep passports on you at all times. ISIC cards will get you a student discount but only if you’re a Polish student, while Euro 26 cards are not valid. You will have to pay a fine if caught travelling without a validated ticket by one of the plain clothes inspectors.

TROLLEYBUSES, TRAMS AND LOCAL BUSES (ZKM/ZTM) can also zip you around the relevant cities.  Tickets are issued by Gdańsk and Gdynia. Gdańsk tickets allow you to travel in Gdańsk (and Sopot) and Gdynia tickets allow you to travel in Gdynia (and Sopot). If buying a ticket in Sopot you will need to buy a ticket for the direction you are heading i.e. Gdańsk or Gdynia.

TICKET PRICES Single - 3.00zł, 3.00zł, 60  60 minute ticket - 3.60zł 3.60zł,, Single ticket for use on a ‘fast’line - 4.00zł 4.00zł,, 60 minute ticket for ‘fast’lines 4.60zł,, 24-hour ticket - 12zł 4.60zł  Tickets can be bought from kiosks or an increasing number number of ticket machines which have English and German language options. If you‘re planning on staying longer then there is the Metropolitan ticket which gives you travel in the cities for 24 hours - the first type covers SKM local trains and then buses, trolleybuses and trams in EITHER Gdansk or Gdynia and costs 17zł 17zł ( (8.50zł 8.50zł reduced) or a second version which is all travel in all 3 cities at 20/10zł 20/10zł.. These are available from SKM and ZTM points not the machines. A recommended way to avoid having to decide on which ticket and then having to negotiate how to get it with the woman in the kiosk is to pick up a Gdańsk - Sopot - Gdynia Plus tourist card. As well as the discounts and free entry to many of the sights that the card brings, you will also be entitled to free travel on the whole Tri-city transport network. Pick it up at the tourist information points around the city.

NATIONAL TRAINS AND BUSES If you are looking to travel out of the city you will need to use the national PKP (trains) or PKS (bus) services. For trains you find arrival (Przyjazdy) and departure (Odjazdy) times marked on a board in the main station building with the timetables displayed on A1 size cards (departures on a yellow card and arrivals on a white card). Main line train services run from all three stations in the Tri-city as well as Gdansk-Oliwa and Gdansk-Wrzeszcz. Regional and national bus services (such as services to Frombork) run from Gdansk Bus Station which you will find perched on the hill overlooking the train station.  The bus bus station on can be reached reached viathe tunnel tunnel entered entered via the the stairs outside the main train station and KFC.

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY BUS STATION A-2, ul. 3 Maja 12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 15 32, www. pks.gdansk.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Note that on the first two and last two working days of each month the office is open 06:30 - 18: 30. Q

GDAŃSK GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION  Tickets for international  Tickets international routes can now be purchased purchased from all ticket desks. QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

TAXIS Although most taxis are now trustworthy with honest meters, there are still certain drivers who will quite happily take advantage of your ignorance and overcharge for journeys. To guard against this ensure that you use a taxi which is clearly marked. The firms listed below are all reliable with Neptun being the only firm allowed to sit outside of the airport terminal building. Look out for 19686 19686 on  on the sides of their cabs. Taxis are slightly cheaper if called in advance. If calling one of the abbreviated numbers such as 19686 19686 please  please be aware that you may need to prefix it with 58 58 if  if calling from your mobile.

HALLO TAXI �GDAŃSK� tel. (+48) 58 301 59 59, www.hallotaxi.gda.pl.

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MONTE TAXI �SOPOT� tel. (+48) 58 555 14 14, www.montetaxi.pl.

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RESTAURANT � ORANGERY � WINERY � TERRACE � BANQUET ROOMS � SALON PRIVE

NEPTUN TAXI �GDAŃSK�  The only sanctioned firm at the airport with some Englishspeaking operators. Mini-vans are also available and if you are planning a journey outside of the city special rates are available for places such as Stutthof, Malbork and Frombork. You can pay by credit card and American Express. Qtel. (+48) 58 511 15 55, www.neptuntaxi.pl. Y

NON�STOP TAXI �GDYNIA� tel. (+48) 58 625 01 01.

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SUPER HALLO TAXI �GDAŃSK�

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tel. (+48) 602 31 91 91, www.superhallo.pl.

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sk I In n Your Pocket 16 Gdańsk

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

City Basics

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of December 01, 2015 based on €1 = 4.26zł

Longest River  The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Gdańsk sits on the Motława river which reaches the Baltic via the Martwa Wisła. Highest Point  The highest peak in the country is Rysy (2,499m above sea level) which can be found in the Tatry mountains in the south of the country. Population (2014) Poland - 38,502,396 Kraków - 759,800 Wrocław - 633,105 Gdańsk - 461,935 Gdynia - 247,792

Warsaw - 1,729,119 Łódź - 708,554 Poznań - 546,829 Katowice - 294,889 Sopot - 31,683

Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator. English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and 18 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.40 zł 1.69 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 8.00 zł 2.49 zł 15.20 zł 4.16 zł 3.00 zł

€ 2.21 € 0.40 € 5.63 € 0.70 € 1.88 € 0.58 € 3.57 € 0.98 € 0.70

many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDER In Polish cities you’ll typically see two types of uniformed law enforcement. One is the police, the other is the local City Guard (Straż Miejska) and you’re more likely to come across one of them during your stay in the city.  The City Guard Guard wascreated following the the fallof Communism Communism and began appearing on the streets of Gdansk in 1991.Their role is to focus on local law enforcement and although they do not have the full powers of arrest as the police it is their role to maintain public order in the city; manage traffi c in the restricted zones of the main town including dealing with parking and traffi c violations and above all to assist citizens in the city. During the high season offi cers from the region who are able to speak foreign languages are re-deployed to the city and to the nearby beaches. These offi cers are easy to identify as they wear badges showing which languages they speak. While the Tri-city is in general a safe city, petty crime does exist and travellers are warned to show common sense with their personal belongings such as carrying your wallet or passport in a secure pocket and not in a jacket left casually lying around. Those travelling by car are asked to beware of the restricted parking zones in the centre of Gdansk and to pay and display a parking ticket where necessary.  The most common reason foreign visitors fall foul of the law is for disturbing the peace by imbibing too heavily or for making too much noise particularly late at night. It is worth noting that large parts of Gdansk old town are residential and guards are often called to deal with rowdy party-goers by angry neighbours. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The other well-known ways tourists fall foul of the City Guard is for jaywalking. You’ll You’ll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing - take heed, they know that being caught crossing on a red signal or at a point where there is no marked crossing can result in an on-the-spot fine of around 100zl. Don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor; In fact your nonresidency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).  The City Guard have asked us to point out that they sincerely hope everyone who visits the city enjoys themselves and returns home safely. If you do find yourself in need of advice, directions or assistance they are happy to help and will contact the police on your behalf if it is something beyond their jurisdiction.

MONEY  Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carr y small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. Prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł.

RELIGION For over one thousand years has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Tri-city and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is offi cially recognised as one of the most diffi cult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.  This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’sounds like ‘on’in ‘on’in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’sounds like ‘en’as ‘en’as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’is a n open ‘o’sound like ‘oo’in ‘oo’in ‘boot’ ‘c’like the ‘ts’in ‘bits’‘ ‘ j’like the ‘y’in ‘yeah’  j’like ‘w’is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’like the ‘w’in ‘win’ ‘ń’like the ‘ny’in ‘canyon’ ‘cz cz’and ’and ‘ć ‘ć’like the ‘ch’in ‘beach’ ‘dz dz’like ’like the ‘ds’in ‘beds’ ‘rz rz’and ’and ‘ż ‘ż’like the ‘su’in ‘treasure’ ‘sz sz’and ’and ‘ś ‘ś’like the ‘sh’in ‘ship’ ‘drz drz’like ’like the ‘g’in ‘George’ ‘r’is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi /Bye (informal) H elel lo /G /G oo oo dd ay ay (f(f oror ma ma l) Good Go od ev even enin ingg (forma o rmal) l) Good-bye Good Ni ght Please Thank yo you Excuse me/Sorr y

Tak Nie C ześć D zizi eń eń do do brbr y Dobry Do brywieczó e czórr D o wi dzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dzięku ję Pr zezepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) ( JeJe nd oh oh -b -b ri ) (Doh (D oh-b -bri ri vy vyeh eh-c -cho hoor or)) (Doh veet -zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Im ’ frfro mE ng ngl an and. Do you speak speak English? s h? I don’ don’t speak speak Polish. i sh. I do do n’n’ t u nd nd erer stst an an d.d. Tw o be be erer s,s, p le as as e.e. Cheers! Wher Wh eree are the the toile toilets ts?? Yo u a re b ea ea ut ut if ulul . I love you. Pleasetake me home. home. Call me!

Mam na imi ę.ę... J eses te mz An Ang il i Czy mówisz mówisz po angielsku? angielsku? Nie mów mówię ię po po polsk polsku. u. N ie ro ro zu zu mi mi em em . D wa wa p iw a prpr os os zę zę . Na zdrowie! Gdzi Gd zie są to toal alety? e ty? J es es tete ś p ię kn kn a.a. Kocham ci ę. Proszęę zabierz Prosz zabierz mnie mnie do domu. Zadz wo woń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee -m -myeh…) ( Ye hs hs te mz an an glgl ee ee ) (Che moo-vee moo-veesh sh po an-gyel-s an-gyel-skoo? koo?)) (Nyeh (Ny eh moomoo-vye vyehh popol-skoo - skoo.) .) ( Ny Ny eh eh ro ro ww- zo zo oo- me me -e -e hm hm .) ( Dv Dv ah ah p ee ee va va h prpr os os he he h.h. ) (Nah zdrov yeh!) (Gdj (G djeh e h sa sawn wn to toe-l e-leti e tih) h) ( Ye Ye s-s- tete sh sh p ee ee -e -e nk nk -n -n ah ah .) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Air por t Train ststation Bu s station O ne ne t ic ke ke t t o… o…

Lotnisko Dworzec PK PKP Dworzec PKS J ed ed en en b il etet d o… o…

(Lot -nees-ko) (Dvoar-jet s Pe Peh Ka Kah Pe Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) ( Ye hh- de de nb ee ee -l-l etet d oh oh …) …)

December 2015 - April 2016 19

City Basics

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of December 01, 2015 based on €1 = 4.26zł

Longest River  The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Gdańsk sits on the Motława river which reaches the Baltic via the Martwa Wisła. Highest Point  The highest peak in the country is Rysy (2,499m above sea level) which can be found in the Tatry mountains in the south of the country. Population (2014) Poland - 38,502,396 Kraków - 759,800 Wrocław - 633,105 Gdańsk - 461,935 Gdynia - 247,792

Warsaw - 1,729,119 Łódź - 708,554 Poznań - 546,829 Katowice - 294,889 Sopot - 31,683

Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator. English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and 18 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.40 zł 1.69 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 8.00 zł 2.49 zł 15.20 zł 4.16 zł 3.00 zł

€ 2.21 € 0.40 € 5.63 € 0.70 € 1.88 € 0.58 € 3.57 € 0.98 € 0.70

many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDER In Polish cities you’ll typically see two types of uniformed law enforcement. One is the police, the other is the local City Guard (Straż Miejska) and you’re more likely to come across one of them during your stay in the city.  The City Guard Guard wascreated following the the fallof Communism Communism and began appearing on the streets of Gdansk in 1991.Their role is to focus on local law enforcement and although they do not have the full powers of arrest as the police it is their role to maintain public order in the city; manage traffi c in the restricted zones of the main town including dealing with parking and traffi c violations and above all to assist citizens in the city. During the high season offi cers from the region who are able to speak foreign languages are re-deployed to the city and to the nearby beaches. These offi cers are easy to identify as they wear badges showing which languages they speak. While the Tri-city is in general a safe city, petty crime does exist and travellers are warned to show common sense with their personal belongings such as carrying your wallet or passport in a secure pocket and not in a jacket left casually lying around. Those travelling by car are asked to beware of the restricted parking zones in the centre of Gdansk and to pay and display a parking ticket where necessary.  The most common reason foreign visitors fall foul of the law is for disturbing the peace by imbibing too heavily or for making too much noise particularly late at night. It is worth noting that large parts of Gdansk old town are residential and guards are often called to deal with rowdy party-goers by angry neighbours. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The other well-known ways tourists fall foul of the City Guard is for jaywalking. You’ll You’ll undoubtedly be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing - take heed, they know that being caught crossing on a red signal or at a point where there is no marked crossing can result in an on-the-spot fine of around 100zl. Don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor; In fact your nonresidency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).  The City Guard have asked us to point out that they sincerely hope everyone who visits the city enjoys themselves and returns home safely. If you do find yourself in need of advice, directions or assistance they are happy to help and will contact the police on your behalf if it is something beyond their jurisdiction.

MONEY  Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carr y small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. Prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-10zł.

RELIGION For over one thousand years has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Basic History

10th Century  The first Christian mission comes to the small fishing village of Gdańsk. The Bishop of Prague, Adalbert, christens the inhabitants with the year 997 commonly accepted as the year that Gdańsk was founded. 13th Century Gdańsk welcomes vessels from England, Sweden and the Walloon Lands. The Teutonic Knights penetrate Polish regions from the west in 1226. Gdynia is first mentioned under the name Gdina as a fishing village in 1253. The bishop’s document which mentions it says that it belonged to Oksywie, the oldest settlement in the area dating from the first half of the 8th century. Today Oksywie is a part of Gdynia. Although human settlement in what is now Sopot can be traced back over 2,500 years and a fort is known to have existed between the 7th and 11th centuries, it isn’t until the 13th century that the first recorded mention of Sopot can be found. 14th Century  The Teutonic Knights make a treacherous assault on Gdańsk in 1308. The Knights also crown Malbork, 60km south, the capital of their Teutonic state. In 1361 Gdańsk joins the Hanseatic League, a mercantile organisation, and its sea port prospers. 15th Century Polish-Lithuanian forces defeat the Teutonic Knights at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, thereby stopping German expansion eastward. As a result of the Second Peace of Torun in 1466, Sopot becomes part of the Polish state. 16th century Gdańsk enjoys a golden era, prospering into a rich seaport and important centre of trade and culture. Besides Germans, Gdańsk’s ethnic make-up is predominantly Polish, Dutch, Russian and Jewish, as well as a large number of Scotsmen. 18th Century Poland becomes a playground for Tsar Peter the Great, and in 1734 Gdańsk is besieged by the Russian army. The siege sees the village of Gdynia burned to the ground and Sopot seriously damaged. In 1772 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose the first partition of Poland and the whole area becomes part of Prussia. Gdańsk, now Danzig, loses its trade routes and falls into decline. 20 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Tri-city and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is offi cially recognised as one of the most diffi cult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.  This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’sounds like ‘on’in ‘on’in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’sounds like ‘en’as ‘en’as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’is a n open ‘o’sound like ‘oo’in ‘oo’in ‘boot’ ‘c’like the ‘ts’in ‘bits’‘ ‘ j’like the ‘y’in ‘yeah’  j’like ‘w’is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’like the ‘w’in ‘win’ ‘ń’like the ‘ny’in ‘canyon’ ‘cz cz’and ’and ‘ć ‘ć’like the ‘ch’in ‘beach’ ‘dz dz’like ’like the ‘ds’in ‘beds’ ‘rz rz’and ’and ‘ż ‘ż’like the ‘su’in ‘treasure’ ‘sz sz’and ’and ‘ś ‘ś’like the ‘sh’in ‘ship’ ‘drz drz’like ’like the ‘g’in ‘George’ ‘r’is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi /Bye (informal) H elel lo /G /G oo oo dd ay ay (f(f oror ma ma l) Good Go od ev even enin ingg (forma o rmal) l) Good-bye Good Ni ght Please Thank yo you Excuse me/Sorr y

Tak Nie C ześć D zizi eń eń do do brbr y Dobry Do brywieczó e czórr D o wi dzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dzięku ję Pr zezepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) ( JeJe nd oh oh -b -b ri ) (Doh (D oh-b -bri ri vy vyeh eh-c -cho hoor or)) (Doh veet -zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Im ’ frfro mE ng ngl an and. Do you speak speak English? s h? I don’ don’t speak speak Polish. i sh. I do do n’n’ t u nd nd erer stst an an d.d. Tw o be be erer s,s, p le as as e.e. Cheers! Wher Wh eree are the the toile toilets ts?? Yo u a re b ea ea ut ut if ulul . I love you. Pleasetake me home. home. Call me!

Mam na imi ę.ę... J eses te mz An Ang il i Czy mówisz mówisz po angielsku? angielsku? Nie mów mówię ię po po polsk polsku. u. N ie ro ro zu zu mi mi em em . D wa wa p iw a prpr os os zę zę . Na zdrowie! Gdzi Gd zie są to toal alety? e ty? J es es tete ś p ię kn kn a.a. Kocham ci ę. Proszęę zabierz Prosz zabierz mnie mnie do domu. Zadz wo woń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee -m -myeh…) ( Ye hs hs te mz an an glgl ee ee ) (Che moo-vee moo-veesh sh po an-gyel-s an-gyel-skoo? koo?)) (Nyeh (Ny eh moomoo-vye vyehh popol-skoo - skoo.) .) ( Ny Ny eh eh ro ro ww- zo zo oo- me me -e -e hm hm .) ( Dv Dv ah ah p ee ee va va h prpr os os he he h.h. ) (Nah zdrov yeh!) (Gdj (G djeh e h sa sawn wn to toe-l e-leti e tih) h) ( Ye Ye s-s- tete sh sh p ee ee -e -e nk nk -n -n ah ah .) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Air por t Train ststation Bu s station O ne ne t ic ke ke t t o… o…

Lotnisko Dworzec PK PKP Dworzec PKS J ed ed en en b il etet d o… o…

(Lot -nees-ko) (Dvoar-jet s Pe Peh Ka Kah Pe Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) ( Ye hh- de de nb ee ee -l-l etet d oh oh …) …)

December 2015 - April 2016 19

Basic History A Prussian-Russian agreement on the second partition of Poland is concluded in 1793. In 1795 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose a third partition of Poland, ending Polish independence for more than a century and wiping the country from the map completely.

Now a bustling conurbation known locally as Trojmiasto (Tri-city), each of the individual members has its own specific history. While colonisation in the Gdańsk area dates back to the 7th century when it was a small group of fishing hamlets, Gdynia’s history was changed dramatically as a result of the Treaty of Versailles less than one hundred years ago.

LANGUAGE SMARTS

19th Century Napoleon’s advance eastwards sees Gdańsk established as a free city, with French troops stationed there. After Napoleon’s defeat and the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Poland is partitioned anew: Danzig (Gdańsk), Zoppot (Sopot) and Gdingen (Gdynia) are given back to Prussia. In 1819 Carl Christoph Wegner makes the first attempt to turn Zoppot into a seaside resort by building a bath-house and changing rooms but the venture fails. At this time there are 23 houses in Zoppot and a population of 350. In 1823 Jean Georges Haffner, a doctor in Napoleon’s army, starts the building of a seaside resort by building the Zoppot  Therapeutic House, wooden baths and the b eginnings of the pier. With the opening of a Danzig – Köslin (Koszalin) train line in 1870, which is then extended to Berlin, Zoppot becomes more accessible to holidaymakers. The town quickly grows into an elegant resort and records visitor numbers of nearly 12,500 people by 1900. In 1871 the area is offi cially incorporated into the German Empire. In 1877 the Zoppot council purchase the bathing houses from Haffner’s heirs and build a second bathing house and extend the pier to 85 metres. 20th Century  The Kaiser, Wilhelm II, grants Zoppot city rights on the 8th of October 1901, while neighbouring Gdingen develops as a small seaside resort centred around what is today ul. Świętojańska, Pl. Kaszubski, ul Portowa and ul. Starowiejska. In the days before WWI, Zoppot’s population has increased to 17,400 people and visitor numbers have reached 20,000 annually. On 11th November 1918 with Imperial Germany defeated, the partition collapses and Poland regains independence giving birth to what is regarded as the Second Polish Republic. Danzig is caught in a tug of war between Germany and Poland who turn to the League of Nations to decide on control. With the majority of the city ’s inhabitants considered to be of German origin but with a financially ruined Germany in no state to prov ide for them plus the worries of the western powers that Poland might fall under the influence of Bolshevik Russia, a compromise is hashed together which sees the creation of The Free City of Danzig. Formerly established on January 10, 1920 the city incorporates Danzig, Zoppot (but not Gdingen) as well as a large part of the surrounding area and sees the creation of a separate parliament, currency and postal stamps. With Zoppot incorporated into the Free City of Danzig its northern border becomes the border between the Free City and the newly reborn Polish state. The Therapeutic House is converted into a casino.  The Treaty of Versailles changes Gdynia forever though. Poland is awarded access to the sea via a narrow strip of land which is to become infamously known as the ‘Polish gdansk.inyourpocket.com

corridor’. Gdingen, now renamed Gdynia finds itself sat at the top of this cor ridor. 1920s  The Polish Parliament passes a bill about the building of a major port facility at Gdynia on September 23 1922. The village expands rapidly as workers from all over Poland are brought in to help with the construction.  The first part of the port is o pened by the Polish president Stanisław Wojciechowski on April 29 1923 while August 13 of that year sees the first sh ip, the French ship Kentucky, enter the port. Gdynia is granted city rights on February 10 1926 and at this point has 12,000 residents. The pier in Sopot is extended to its current length of 512 metres in 1928 and becomes the longest wooden pier in Europe. 1930s The Tri-city area prospers but the rise of Adolf Hitler 1930s The soon sees the govern ment of the Free City of Danzig come under the control of the Nazis. Tensions rise both within the Free City and over the border in neighbouring Poland. In 1939, WWII starts with Nazi Germany’s September 1 attack on Poland’s military posts on Westerplatte as Hitler invades to re-incorporate Danzig to the German Reich. 1940s From 1940-44 all Polish territory falls under Nazi occupation and becomes its primary killing ground. Six million Poles, including three million Jews, are killed. Although most of Free City Danzig’s pre-war Jewish population managed to escape in time to avoid the Holocaust, much of the city’s Polish intelligentsia is rounded up and murdered in the nearby Stutthoff death camp. By the outbreak of war Gdynia has rapidly grown to the 6th largest city in Poland with a population of over 120,000 people. September 1 –19 sees a heroic defence of the city but eventual defeat sees Nazi Germany occupy Gdynia, incorporate it to the German Reich, rename it Gotenhafen and expel the local population. On March 23rd 1945 the Red Army enters Zoppot and the German population is driven out, in some cases literally into the sea. Around 10% of the city is destroyed with the most serious damage in the baths/casino area. On March 28, 1945, the Soviets seize Danzig, now a smouldering mass of rubble while Gdynia is liberated by Poles fighting alongside the Red Army. From 1945 onwards Poland is Sovietised. Control of the area is given to Poland and the cities are renamed with their Polish names. Most Germans are exiled westward, replaced by refugees from east Poland. In 1947 the Communists consolidate political monopoly after rigged elections.The 1950s and 1960s mark a time of major urban rebuilding in Gdansk following the large-scale wartime destruction of the city. 1950s In 1953 Gdynia is connected to Gdańsk via the SKM light railway system, while in 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created with Poland a member. In 1961 the first Sopot International Song Festival is held, a festival which goes onto become a huge televised event in the Soviet bloc countries and still attracts big names every year. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

1970s  The events of 1970 in Gdańsk and Gdynia are the 1970s The first to rock the system. In December shipyard workers strike to protest poor living standards. The army intervene on December 17 and open fire on the protestors, resulting in clashes in which 44 are estimated to have died. Events on this day will have profound effects on workers for many years to come. This is also the year that West German chancellor Willy Brandt formally renounces German territorial claims to Danzig/Gdansk. Opposition to the government grows throughout the 1970s although the country is lifted by the 1978 selection of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyła as Pope. 1980s A general strike is called in August 1980 by the fledgling Solidarność (Solidarity) trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa. After an 18 day sit-in protest, the government gives in and agrees to the strikers 21 demands. These include the creation of the first free trade unions in the Communist Bloc and marks the first peaceful resolution of grievances. The peace is shattered however by the introduction of Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Solidarność is outlawed by the government and its leadership imprisoned. Other union activists are driven underground. In protest, more than 20,000 Gdańsk citizens take sanctuary in St. Mary’s Church. In 1983 Martial Law is lifted and Lech Wałęsa is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.  The late 1980s see a period of gradual liberalisation due in part to Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika in the Soviet Union. Renewed strikes in 1988 and a failing economy convince Polish leader General Wojciech Jaruzelski to initiate talks with Solidarność. In 1989 Round  Table talks produce a formula for power sharing between the Communists and Solidarność. Partly-free elections result in sweeping Solidarność victories and the communist regime crumbles. 1990s Following Solidarność’s victory in 1989 the new Finance Minister, Leszek Balcerowicz, launches an ambitious shock-therapy economic reform programme and Lech Wałęsa becomes Poland’s first democratically-elected, post-communist President. In 1995 former communist, Aleksander Kwaśniewski, defeats Wałęsa in presidential elections. The following year the Gdańsk shipyards are declared bankrupt. In 1999 Poland joins NATO. 2000 onwards  onwards  On May 1, 2004 Poland enters the European Union, while on April 2, 2005, the widely admired and respected Pope John Paul II passes away. 2007 sees Civic Platform (PO) defeat Law & Justice (PiS) at the polls which results in local boy Donald Tusk becoming Prime Minister. April 10, 2010 sees 96 high-ranking Poles tragically killed in the air disaster at Smoleńsk in Russia. Among the dead are President Lech Kaczyński and his wife along with a number of well-known Gdanskians including Solidarity’s Anna Walentynowicz, Senator Maciej Płażyński and MP Arkadiusz Rybicki whose funerals take place in various old town churches. In the summer of 2012, Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine. December 2015 - April 2016 21

Basic History

Basic History A Prussian-Russian agreement on the second partition of Poland is concluded in 1793. In 1795 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose a third partition of Poland, ending Polish independence for more than a century and wiping the country from the map completely.

Now a bustling conurbation known locally as Trojmiasto (Tri-city), each of the individual members has its own specific history. While colonisation in the Gdańsk area dates back to the 7th century when it was a small group of fishing hamlets, Gdynia’s history was changed dramatically as a result of the Treaty of Versailles less than one hundred years ago. 10th Century  The first Christian mission comes to the small fishing village of Gdańsk. The Bishop of Prague, Adalbert, christens the inhabitants with the year 997 commonly accepted as the year that Gdańsk was founded. 13th Century Gdańsk welcomes vessels from England, Sweden and the Walloon Lands. The Teutonic Knights penetrate Polish regions from the west in 1226. Gdynia is first mentioned under the name Gdina as a fishing village in 1253. The bishop’s document which mentions it says that it belonged to Oksywie, the oldest settlement in the area dating from the first half of the 8th century. Today Oksywie is a part of Gdynia. Although human settlement in what is now Sopot can be traced back over 2,500 years and a fort is known to have existed between the 7th and 11th centuries, it isn’t until the 13th century that the first recorded mention of Sopot can be found. 14th Century  The Teutonic Knights make a treacherous assault on Gdańsk in 1308. The Knights also crown Malbork, 60km south, the capital of their Teutonic state. In 1361 Gdańsk joins the Hanseatic League, a mercantile organisation, and its sea port prospers. 15th Century Polish-Lithuanian forces defeat the Teutonic Knights at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, thereby stopping German expansion eastward. As a result of the Second Peace of Torun in 1466, Sopot becomes part of the Polish state. 16th century Gdańsk enjoys a golden era, prospering into a rich seaport and important centre of trade and culture. Besides Germans, Gdańsk’s ethnic make-up is predominantly Polish, Dutch, Russian and Jewish, as well as a large number of Scotsmen. 18th Century Poland becomes a playground for Tsar Peter the Great, and in 1734 Gdańsk is besieged by the Russian army. The siege sees the village of Gdynia burned to the ground and Sopot seriously damaged. In 1772 Austria, Prussia and Russia impose the first partition of Poland and the whole area becomes part of Prussia. Gdańsk, now Danzig, loses its trade routes and falls into decline.

19th Century Napoleon’s advance eastwards sees Gdańsk established as a free city, with French troops stationed there. After Napoleon’s defeat and the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Poland is partitioned anew: Danzig (Gdańsk), Zoppot (Sopot) and Gdingen (Gdynia) are given back to Prussia. In 1819 Carl Christoph Wegner makes the first attempt to turn Zoppot into a seaside resort by building a bath-house and changing rooms but the venture fails. At this time there are 23 houses in Zoppot and a population of 350. In 1823 Jean Georges Haffner, a doctor in Napoleon’s army, starts the building of a seaside resort by building the Zoppot  Therapeutic House, wooden baths and the b eginnings of the pier. With the opening of a Danzig – Köslin (Koszalin) train line in 1870, which is then extended to Berlin, Zoppot becomes more accessible to holidaymakers. The town quickly grows into an elegant resort and records visitor numbers of nearly 12,500 people by 1900. In 1871 the area is offi cially incorporated into the German Empire. In 1877 the Zoppot council purchase the bathing houses from Haffner’s heirs and build a second bathing house and extend the pier to 85 metres. 20th Century  The Kaiser, Wilhelm II, grants Zoppot city rights on the 8th of October 1901, while neighbouring Gdingen develops as a small seaside resort centred around what is today ul. Świętojańska, Pl. Kaszubski, ul Portowa and ul. Starowiejska. In the days before WWI, Zoppot’s population has increased to 17,400 people and visitor numbers have reached 20,000 annually. On 11th November 1918 with Imperial Germany defeated, the partition collapses and Poland regains independence giving birth to what is regarded as the Second Polish Republic. Danzig is caught in a tug of war between Germany and Poland who turn to the League of Nations to decide on control. With the majority of the city ’s inhabitants considered to be of German origin but with a financially ruined Germany in no state to prov ide for them plus the worries of the western powers that Poland might fall under the influence of Bolshevik Russia, a compromise is hashed together which sees the creation of The Free City of Danzig. Formerly established on January 10, 1920 the city incorporates Danzig, Zoppot (but not Gdingen) as well as a large part of the surrounding area and sees the creation of a separate parliament, currency and postal stamps. With Zoppot incorporated into the Free City of Danzig its northern border becomes the border between the Free City and the newly reborn Polish state. The Therapeutic House is converted into a casino.  The Treaty of Versailles changes Gdynia forever though. Poland is awarded access to the sea via a narrow strip of land which is to become infamously known as the ‘Polish

20 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

corridor’. Gdingen, now renamed Gdynia finds itself sat at the top of this cor ridor. 1920s  The Polish Parliament passes a bill about the building of a major port facility at Gdynia on September 23 1922. The village expands rapidly as workers from all over Poland are brought in to help with the construction.  The first part of the port is o pened by the Polish president Stanisław Wojciechowski on April 29 1923 while August 13 of that year sees the first sh ip, the French ship Kentucky, enter the port. Gdynia is granted city rights on February 10 1926 and at this point has 12,000 residents. The pier in Sopot is extended to its current length of 512 metres in 1928 and becomes the longest wooden pier in Europe. 1930s The Tri-city area prospers but the rise of Adolf Hitler 1930s The soon sees the govern ment of the Free City of Danzig come under the control of the Nazis. Tensions rise both within the Free City and over the border in neighbouring Poland. In 1939, WWII starts with Nazi Germany’s September 1 attack on Poland’s military posts on Westerplatte as Hitler invades to re-incorporate Danzig to the German Reich. 1940s From 1940-44 all Polish territory falls under Nazi occupation and becomes its primary killing ground. Six million Poles, including three million Jews, are killed. Although most of Free City Danzig’s pre-war Jewish population managed to escape in time to avoid the Holocaust, much of the city’s Polish intelligentsia is rounded up and murdered in the nearby Stutthoff death camp. By the outbreak of war Gdynia has rapidly grown to the 6th largest city in Poland with a population of over 120,000 people. September 1 –19 sees a heroic defence of the city but eventual defeat sees Nazi Germany occupy Gdynia, incorporate it to the German Reich, rename it Gotenhafen and expel the local population. On March 23rd 1945 the Red Army enters Zoppot and the German population is driven out, in some cases literally into the sea. Around 10% of the city is destroyed with the most serious damage in the baths/casino area. On March 28, 1945, the Soviets seize Danzig, now a smouldering mass of rubble while Gdynia is liberated by Poles fighting alongside the Red Army. From 1945 onwards Poland is Sovietised. Control of the area is given to Poland and the cities are renamed with their Polish names. Most Germans are exiled westward, replaced by refugees from east Poland. In 1947 the Communists consolidate political monopoly after rigged elections.The 1950s and 1960s mark a time of major urban rebuilding in Gdansk following the large-scale wartime destruction of the city. 1950s In 1953 Gdynia is connected to Gdańsk via the SKM light railway system, while in 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created with Poland a member. In 1961 the first Sopot International Song Festival is held, a festival which goes onto become a huge televised event in the Soviet bloc countries and still attracts big names every year.

1970s  The events of 1970 in Gdańsk and Gdynia are the 1970s The first to rock the system. In December shipyard workers strike to protest poor living standards. The army intervene on December 17 and open fire on the protestors, resulting in clashes in which 44 are estimated to have died. Events on this day will have profound effects on workers for many years to come. This is also the year that West German chancellor Willy Brandt formally renounces German territorial claims to Danzig/Gdansk. Opposition to the government grows throughout the 1970s although the country is lifted by the 1978 selection of Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyła as Pope. 1980s A general strike is called in August 1980 by the fledgling Solidarność (Solidarity) trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa. After an 18 day sit-in protest, the government gives in and agrees to the strikers 21 demands. These include the creation of the first free trade unions in the Communist Bloc and marks the first peaceful resolution of grievances. The peace is shattered however by the introduction of Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Solidarność is outlawed by the government and its leadership imprisoned. Other union activists are driven underground. In protest, more than 20,000 Gdańsk citizens take sanctuary in St. Mary’s Church. In 1983 Martial Law is lifted and Lech Wałęsa is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.  The late 1980s see a period of gradual liberalisation due in part to Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika in the Soviet Union. Renewed strikes in 1988 and a failing economy convince Polish leader General Wojciech Jaruzelski to initiate talks with Solidarność. In 1989 Round  Table talks produce a formula for power sharing between the Communists and Solidarność. Partly-free elections result in sweeping Solidarność victories and the communist regime crumbles. 1990s Following Solidarność’s victory in 1989 the new Finance Minister, Leszek Balcerowicz, launches an ambitious shock-therapy economic reform programme and Lech Wałęsa becomes Poland’s first democratically-elected, post-communist President. In 1995 former communist, Aleksander Kwaśniewski, defeats Wałęsa in presidential elections. The following year the Gdańsk shipyards are declared bankrupt. In 1999 Poland joins NATO. 2000 onwards  onwards  On May 1, 2004 Poland enters the European Union, while on April 2, 2005, the widely admired and respected Pope John Paul II passes away. 2007 sees Civic Platform (PO) defeat Law & Justice (PiS) at the polls which results in local boy Donald Tusk becoming Prime Minister. April 10, 2010 sees 96 high-ranking Poles tragically killed in the air disaster at Smoleńsk in Russia. Among the dead are President Lech Kaczyński and his wife along with a number of well-known Gdanskians including Solidarity’s Anna Walentynowicz, Senator Maciej Płażyński and MP Arkadiusz Rybicki whose funerals take place in various old town churches. In the summer of 2012, Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine. December 2015 - April 2016 21

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events CONCERTS

20.01 WEDNESDAY

14.12 MONDAY

Some of the best symphonic music today is composed for film, and it often goes without due recognition outside the world of cinematography. Luckily, since it can and does stand alone, film music concerts and festivals have grown substantially in popularity. This concert at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic will feature soundtracks from Star Wars, LoTR,  James Bond , Out of Africa, Lawrence of Arabia, and others, performed by the Cinema Symphony Orchestra. QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 188-208zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl www.ebile t.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

VIENNA MOZART ORCHESTRA

A fixture of Viennese concert life since its foundation in 1986, the Vienna Mozart Orchestra is (unsurprisingly) dedicated exclusively to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Now they are bringing the magic of the prolific Austrian composer to the Musical Theatre in Gdynia - just in time for Christmas, too. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www. makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19 :00. Tickets 159239zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68, N-2; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00). 18.12 FRIDAY

GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA

 ar r   some gre  a greaa liv e v enues enues suc h as as U c o in G  yni a. a. Che Check ck out  our  our new new eve events nts nct ion onlin ion onlinee or mor e i n o

CINEMAS CINEMA CITY KREWETKAQB-2, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 769 31 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-29zł.

GDYNIA FILM CENTRE N-1, Plac Grunwaldzki 2, tel. (+48) 58 712 46 14, www. gcf.org.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 16/13zł. Q

HELIOS QN-2/3, Gdynia, Centrum Riviera, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, tel. (+48) 58 779 00 03, www.helios.pl. Box office open 3 0 minutes b efore first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets Tickets 14-30zł. MULTIKINO M-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 765 94 10, www.multikino.pl. Box office open 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 23.90-29.90zł. Q

BALLET 21.12 MONDAY

MOSCOW CITY BALLET � SWAN LAKE

 This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so flawlessly, needs no introduction. It 22 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Events start at 17:00 and 20:00. Tickets Tickets 125-165zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (N-2; Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00).

 The Glenn Miller Orchestra was founded in 1938 by you guessed it - Glenn Miller, but the man died six years later when the plane he was flying in was lost in bad weather over the English Channel. The band continued under new leadership; in 1953 Hollywood released The Glenn Miller Story , greatly boosting their popularity. Sixty years later, the orchestra is still touring (with all new members, naturally). QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, www.makroconcert. com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. 19:00. Tickets 145-185zł. 145-185zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). 03.01 SUNDAY

SYMPHONICA

Shakespeare’s immortal play about a teenage romance so intense that it ended in multiple deaths was set to music by Sergei Prokofiev in 1935, featuring a happy ending (quite different from the original story) which proved controversi al with the Sov iet offi cials. This time it’ll be reinterpreted by the Moscow City Ballet, meaning marvelous choreography and impeccable technique. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 129-169zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (N-2; Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68; Open 09:00 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00). gdansk.inyourpocket.com

What’s going on? facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket 23.01 SATURDAY

ANDREA BOCELLI Wonderful Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli has enjoyed tremendous success, from selling over 80 million copies of his albums worldwide (bringing classical to the top of many international pop charts!) to being named one of People Magazine’s 50 Most Beautiful People. His Sacred  Arias  became the best-selling crossover classical album by a solo artist of all time. QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets Tickets 180-755zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). 14.03 MONDAY

GREGORIAN

Established in the 90s in the UK, the idea is to combine choral music with pop and rock. They have been copied, but never bettered - expect the concert to sell out, so get a move on to the ticket agencies. QM-6, Gdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets Tickets 130-190zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Sopot, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63; open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00) & (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00)..

22.02 MONDAY

MOSCOW CITY BALLET � ROMEO AND JULIET

FILM MUSIC HITS

Symphonic remakes of powerful rock and metal hits have become quite popular, and for good reason. In keeping with the fad, Symphonica  is a musical multimedia show combining the songs of Metallica, Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Deep Purple, AC/DC, Guns N’ Roses, Aerosmith, Soundgarden, and Nightwish with a full symphonic orchestra. Among the performers will be the stars of The Voice of Poland   singing competition show. QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1. Concerts start at 16:00 and 19:00. Tickets 80-160zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 23

Culture & Events

Culture & Events CONCERTS

20.01 WEDNESDAY

14.12 MONDAY

Some of the best symphonic music today is composed for film, and it often goes without due recognition outside the world of cinematography. Luckily, since it can and does stand alone, film music concerts and festivals have grown substantially in popularity. This concert at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic will feature soundtracks from Star Wars, LoTR,  James Bond , Out of Africa, Lawrence of Arabia, and others, performed by the Cinema Symphony Orchestra. QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 188-208zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl www.ebile t.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

VIENNA MOZART ORCHESTRA

A fixture of Viennese concert life since its foundation in 1986, the Vienna Mozart Orchestra is (unsurprisingly) dedicated exclusively to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Now they are bringing the magic of the prolific Austrian composer to the Musical Theatre in Gdynia - just in time for Christmas, too. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www. makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19 :00. Tickets 159239zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68, N-2; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00). 18.12 FRIDAY

GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA

 ar r   some gre  a greaa liv e v enues enues suc h as as U c o in G  yni a. a. Che Check ck out  our  our new new eve events nts nct ion onlin ion onlinee or mor e i n o

CINEMAS CINEMA CITY KREWETKAQB-2, ul. Karmelicka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 769 31 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 14-29zł.

GDYNIA FILM CENTRE N-1, Plac Grunwaldzki 2, tel. (+48) 58 712 46 14, www. gcf.org.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 16/13zł. Q

HELIOS QN-2/3, Gdynia, Centrum Riviera, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, tel. (+48) 58 779 00 03, www.helios.pl. Box office open 3 0 minutes b efore first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets Tickets 14-30zł. MULTIKINO M-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 765 94 10, www.multikino.pl. Box office open 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 23.90-29.90zł. Q

BALLET 21.12 MONDAY

MOSCOW CITY BALLET � SWAN LAKE

 This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes, music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so flawlessly, needs no introduction. It

is with dexterity and perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more. Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world class performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to attend a second time. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Events start at 17:00 and 20:00. Tickets Tickets 125-165zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (N-2; Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00).

 The Glenn Miller Orchestra was founded in 1938 by you guessed it - Glenn Miller, but the man died six years later when the plane he was flying in was lost in bad weather over the English Channel. The band continued under new leadership; in 1953 Hollywood released The Glenn Miller Story , greatly boosting their popularity. Sixty years later, the orchestra is still touring (with all new members, naturally). QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1, www.makroconcert. com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. 19:00. Tickets 145-185zł. 145-185zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). 03.01 SUNDAY

SYMPHONICA

Shakespeare’s immortal play about a teenage romance so intense that it ended in multiple deaths was set to music by Sergei Prokofiev in 1935, featuring a happy ending (quite different from the original story) which proved controversi al with the Sov iet offi cials. This time it’ll be reinterpreted by the Moscow City Ballet, meaning marvelous choreography and impeccable technique. QO-1, Gdynia, Musical Theatre, Pl. Grunwaldzki 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 129-169zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (N-2; Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68; Open 09:00 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00).

22 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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23.01 SATURDAY

ANDREA BOCELLI Wonderful Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli has enjoyed tremendous success, from selling over 80 million copies of his albums worldwide (bringing classical to the top of many international pop charts!) to being named one of People Magazine’s 50 Most Beautiful People. His Sacred  Arias  became the best-selling crossover classical album by a solo artist of all time. QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets Tickets 180-755zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

GREGORIAN

Established in the 90s in the UK, the idea is to combine choral music with pop and rock. They have been copied, but never bettered - expect the concert to sell out, so get a move on to the ticket agencies. QM-6, Gdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast, www.makroconcert.com/ pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets Tickets 130-190zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Sopot, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63; open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00) & (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).. Symphonic remakes of powerful rock and metal hits have become quite popular, and for good reason. In keeping with the fad, Symphonica  is a musical multimedia show combining the songs of Metallica, Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Deep Purple, AC/DC, Guns N’ Roses, Aerosmith, Soundgarden, and Nightwish with a full symphonic orchestra. Among the performers will be the stars of The Voice of Poland   singing competition show. QD-3, Gdańsk, The Polish Baltic Philharmonic, ul. Ołowianka 1. Concerts start at 16:00 and 19:00. Tickets 80-160zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Culture & Events

December 2015 - April 2016 23

Culture & Events 30.04 SATURDAY

27.11 FRIDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

 Truth is, if you watched any cinema, you’ve likely come across music scores by German composer Hans Zimmer, responsible for some of the most recognisable tracks from over 150 films, including Interstellar , Pirates of the Caribbean, Gladiator , Inception, The Dark Knight , and the much-loved The Lion King. With four Grammy Awards, two Golden Globes, and an Academy Award, Hans really might be one of the top living geniuses (as named by The Daily Telegraph). Now he’s touring Europe with a seeminglyunnamed orchestra. QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 179-499zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

 This State Art Gallery exhibition features photographs taken by theoretical-physicist-t theoretical-physicist-turned-photographer urned-photographer Leszek Jerzy Pękalski in the Polish highlands during the 1970’s, when he was seeking the Polish Artistic Photographers’ Association membership. QM-4, Sopot, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, www.pgs. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł.

HANS ZIMMER LIVE ON TOUR 2016

EXHIBITIONS 08.11 SUNDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

SIN. IMAGES OF SIN IN EUROPEAN ART FROM THE 15TH TO THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY See 500 years’ worth of sins, sinners, and their projected fates (according to the Christian faith) in this unusual art exhibition. Divided into two parts, it’ll be displayed at two venues: the Green Gate and the Department of Ancient Art, ul. Toruńska 1 (B-6). QC-5, Gdańsk, Green Gate, ul. Długi Targ 24, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng. gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, Fri free. Admission price includes entry to the Gdansk Photo Gallery. 20.11 FRIDAY  15.02 MONDAY

DYBBUK. BETWEEN TWO WORLDS  The dybbuk, a malicious malicious possessing spirit present present in Jewish mythology, was introduced to the world of international theatre in 1914 by Russian-Jewish playwright S. An-sky (real name Shloyme Zanvl Rappoport) in a play titled The  or  Between Two Worlds. This exhibition seeks to Dybbuk  or both present various film and s tage adaptations of An-sky’s work and to explain the concept of the dybbuk to a wider audience.QE-1, Gdańsk, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. 20.11 FRIDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

JERZY LEWCZYŃSKI. THE ALBUM OF LIFE  This retrospective exhibition presents the works of late photographer Jerzy Lewczyński, deceased in 2014 at 90 years of age. His carefully composed, avant-garde photographs were called “anti-photography” “anti-photography” by others and “the theatre of photography” by the artist himself. QM-4, Sopot, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. 24 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

What’s going on? facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

14.03 MONDAY

22.02 MONDAY

MOSCOW CITY BALLET � ROMEO AND JULIET

FILM MUSIC HITS

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

LONG AGO IN PODHALE

05.12 SATURDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

FACES OF THE POLISH DIASPORA: INHABITANTS OF HAMTRAMCK 

 The Museum of Polish Emigration takes a look at Hamtramck, a small town outside of Detroit, unremarkable except for the density of Polish immigrants in the 1970’s - at a strong 90% of the populace (currently down to 14.5%). Co-authored by photographer Tomek Zerek and researcher Anna Muller, this exhibition examines changes in Polish cultural identity across generations of immigrants as well as what it means to live in a small immigrant community. QGdynia, Emigration Museum, ul. Polska 1, tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FESTIVALS 26.12 SATURDAY  30.12 WEDNESDAY

METROPOLIS IS OKAY!

Despite the less-than-enthusiastic-sounding title, this is a celebration of the artsy side of the Tri-City. The action will take place at a different venue every day: Ucho Club in Gdynia, Sfinks in Sopot, and Parlament Club in Gdańsk will all be up as hosts of concerts, performances, and meetings. At the time of writing the programme remains a mystery, so you’ll just have to find out for yourself. Qwww.nck. org.pl. Full schedule and ticket prices undecided at the moment.

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com 14.01 THURSDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

DAYS OF NEW MUSIC

 The Days of New Music (winter edition, spring edition to follow in April) focus on strings and electronic music, an odd combination, but one that covers many people’s tastes.  The line-up will include Gamut INC and Zwerm on Jan 14th; Małgorzata Walentynowicz, Karol Nepelski, Krzysztof Cybulski, and Felix Kubin on Jan 15th; Irek Wojtczak & Elvin Flamingo, and Marcin Dymiter & Olga Szymula on Jan 16th; and Phonos Ek Mechanes and Ensemble Adapter on Jan 17th.QE-4, Gdańsk, Żak Club, ul. Grunwaldzka 195/197, www.klubzak.com.pl. Tickets 25zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 25

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 30.04 SATURDAY

27.11 FRIDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

 Truth is, if you watched any cinema, you’ve likely come across music scores by German composer Hans Zimmer, responsible for some of the most recognisable tracks from over 150 films, including Interstellar , Pirates of the Caribbean, Gladiator , Inception, The Dark Knight , and the much-loved The Lion King. With four Grammy Awards, two Golden Globes, and an Academy Award, Hans really might be one of the top living geniuses (as named by The Daily Telegraph). Now he’s touring Europe with a seeminglyunnamed orchestra. QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka). Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 179-499zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

 This State Art Gallery exhibition features photographs taken by theoretical-physicist-t theoretical-physicist-turned-photographer urned-photographer Leszek Jerzy Pękalski in the Polish highlands during the 1970’s, when he was seeking the Polish Artistic Photographers’ Association membership. QM-4, Sopot, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, www.pgs. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł.

HANS ZIMMER LIVE ON TOUR 2016

EXHIBITIONS 08.11 SUNDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

SIN. IMAGES OF SIN IN EUROPEAN ART FROM THE 15TH TO THE EARLY 20TH CENTURY See 500 years’ worth of sins, sinners, and their projected fates (according to the Christian faith) in this unusual art exhibition. Divided into two parts, it’ll be displayed at two venues: the Green Gate and the Department of Ancient Art, ul. Toruńska 1 (B-6). QC-5, Gdańsk, Green Gate, ul. Długi Targ 24, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng. gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, Fri free. Admission price includes entry to the Gdansk Photo Gallery. 20.11 FRIDAY  15.02 MONDAY

DYBBUK. BETWEEN TWO WORLDS  The dybbuk, a malicious malicious possessing spirit present present in Jewish mythology, was introduced to the world of international theatre in 1914 by Russian-Jewish playwright S. An-sky (real name Shloyme Zanvl Rappoport) in a play titled The  or  Between Two Worlds. This exhibition seeks to Dybbuk  or both present various film and s tage adaptations of An-sky’s work and to explain the concept of the dybbuk to a wider audience.QE-1, Gdańsk, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Cystersów 18 (Oliwa Park), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 12 71 ext. 124, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. 20.11 FRIDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

JERZY LEWCZYŃSKI. THE ALBUM OF LIFE  This retrospective exhibition presents the works of late photographer Jerzy Lewczyński, deceased in 2014 at 90 years of age. His carefully composed, avant-garde photographs were called “anti-photography” “anti-photography” by others and “the theatre of photography” by the artist himself. QM-4, Sopot, State Art Gallery, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, tel. (+48) 58 551 06 21, www.pgs.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. 24 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

LONG AGO IN PODHALE

05.12 SATURDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

FACES OF THE POLISH DIASPORA: INHABITANTS OF HAMTRAMCK 

 The Museum of Polish Emigration takes a look at Hamtramck, a small town outside of Detroit, unremarkable except for the density of Polish immigrants in the 1970’s - at a strong 90% of the populace (currently down to 14.5%). Co-authored by photographer Tomek Zerek and researcher Anna Muller, this exhibition examines changes in Polish cultural identity across generations of immigrants as well as what it means to live in a small immigrant community. QGdynia, Emigration Museum, ul. Polska 1, tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FESTIVALS 26.12 SATURDAY  30.12 WEDNESDAY

METROPOLIS IS OKAY!

Despite the less-than-enthusiastic-sounding title, this is a celebration of the artsy side of the Tri-City. The action will take place at a different venue every day: Ucho Club in Gdynia, Sfinks in Sopot, and Parlament Club in Gdańsk will all be up as hosts of concerts, performances, and meetings. At the time of writing the programme remains a mystery, so you’ll just have to find out for yourself. Qwww.nck. org.pl. Full schedule and ticket prices undecided at the moment.

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com 14.01 THURSDAY  17.01 SUNDAY

DAYS OF NEW MUSIC

 The Days of New Music (winter edition, spring edition to follow in April) focus on strings and electronic music, an odd combination, but one that covers many people’s tastes.  The line-up will include Gamut INC and Zwerm on Jan 14th; Małgorzata Walentynowicz, Karol Nepelski, Krzysztof Cybulski, and Felix Kubin on Jan 15th; Irek Wojtczak & Elvin Flamingo, and Marcin Dymiter & Olga Szymula on Jan 16th; and Phonos Ek Mechanes and Ensemble Adapter on Jan 17th.QE-4, Gdańsk, Żak Club, ul. Grunwaldzka 195/197, www.klubzak.com.pl. Tickets 25zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

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facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Culture & Events

Culture & Events FOR THE KIDS

06.01 WEDNESDAY

01.12 TUESDAY  20.12 SUNDAY

 The holiday of Three Kings (Trzech Króli) is the traditional end of the Christmas season in Poland (even though the trees might stay up well into Feb). See what all the fuss is about by joining this procession, which will comprise costumed and carolling people of all ages. The start is at ul. Piwna, and the finish line at the Green Gate, where the Three Kings will bestow gifts upon Baby Jesus. Qwww.gdansk.orszak.org. Event starts at 11:30.

THREE KINGS’ DAY PROCESSION

THE GREAT ELF FACTORY

Willy Wonka’s Factory meets Santa’s Workshop in this interactive Christmassy attraction. Over the course of 2.5h, children (divided into appropriate age groups) will attempt to help the elves build a toy by completing tasks at ten special workstations. The experience also includes fun on the Elf Slide, a visit to Santa’s office, a “warm snowball”fight, working the way through a labyrinth, and - to top it all off - a meeting with Santa, who will hand out certificates and badges. Adults can come along or pass time in the Elf Cafe. QGdańsk, AmberExpo, ul. Żaglowa 11, www.wielkafabrykaelfow.pl. Tickets 49.99-59.99zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS 05.12 SATURDAY  23.12 WEDNESDAY

CHRISTMAS FAIR ‘Tis the season for Christmas markets (not that anyone’s complaining) - and to get everyone in a festive mood, the Coal Market (Targ Węglowy) will turn into a quaint Christmassy village offering decorations and treats galore, woollen scarves and socks, handmade jewellery, children’s toys, mulled wine, and hot cider. There will also be a carousel and ice-skating rink for kids. QB-4, Gdańsk, Targ Węglowy, www.bozonarodzeniowy.gda.pl. www.bozonarodzeniowy.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 19.12 SATURDAY  23.12 WEDNESDAY

CHRISTMAS FAIR

It’s that time of year again... let the Christmas markets spring up like deranged candy-cane-striped mushrooms. You know the deal: there will be cute regional crafts (souvenir shopping!), gingerbread, mulled wine and mulled beer, wintertime snacks and gifts and contests. QM-4, Skwer Kuracyjny. Open 15:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SPORT 09.01 SATURDAY

AMBER CUP

Can’t wait for EURO 2016? Here’s a little something to tide you over: the Amber Cup indoor football tournament starring some of Poland’s best teams and players (as well as amateurs). The Ergo Arena will host the tournament final.QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka). Event starts at 13:00. Tickets Tickets 0-49zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). 15.01 FRIDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

EUROPEAN HANDBALL CHAMPIONSHIP

Yes, Poland is hosting the European Handball Championship in 2016, and the Tri-City Ergo Arena will see group D teams fighting to advance to the next stage. Here’s the schedule:

WORLD SNOOKER: GDYNIA OPEN

Jan 16th: Hungary vs Montenegro and Denmark vs Russia Jan 18th: Russia vs Hungary and Montenegro vs Denmark Jan 20th: Russia vs Montenegro and Denmark vs Hungary Gdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), pol2016.ehf-euro.com. Tickets 29-99zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). Q

THEATRE

31.12 THURSDAY

GDAŃSK NEW YEAR’S EVE NIGHT If you don’t feel like paying an arm and a leg for a glass of champagne and a soggy sandwich at a fancy club, and you don’t mind boozed-up and oft-obnoxious crowds, then get your New Year’s kicks at the Coal Market (Targ Węglowy) with an outdoor concert featuring Ray Wilson (yes, really). QB-4, Gdańsk, Targ Węglowy. Event starts at 22:00. Admission free. 31.12 THURSDAY

GDYNIA NEW YEAR’S EVE NIGHT An alternative to expensive club parties, this free outdoor concert will feature a number of reasonably popular Polish artists and fireworks at midnight. QO-1, Gdynia, Skwer Kościuszki. Event starts at 20:15. Admission free. 26 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

December 2015 - April 2016 25

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

19.12 SATURDAY

LORD OF THE DANCE

 The Irish music/dance show extraordinaire is on tour again. Produced and directed by the multi-talented Michael Flatley, whose lightning-quick footwork set two Guinness World Records for tapping speed (28 and 35 taps per second, if you were wondering), the musical tells a classic tale of good vs evil based on ancient Irish folklore. If you miss them in Gdańsk, the troupe will also be performing in Wrocław, Katowice and Warsaw.QGdańsk/ Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), www. makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 125-195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

26.02 FRIDAY  28.02 SUNDAY

WORLD SNOOKER: GDYNIA OPEN  The World Snooker Snooker European Tour Tour is coming to Gdynia! You can expect the sport’s best competitors, and p lenty of action, and... uh... oh, who are we kidding, we don’t know  jack about snooker. snooker.It’s the same same thing thing as as pool,right? Sign up to compete if there’s still time, or buy tickets to watch those billiards players do what they presumably do best. QGdynia, Gdynia Arena, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 8 (Redłowo), www.etgdyniaopen.pl. Tickets 60-120zł, pass 240zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68, N-2; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00). December 2015 - April 2016 27

Culture & Events

Culture & Events FOR THE KIDS

06.01 WEDNESDAY

01.12 TUESDAY  20.12 SUNDAY

 The holiday of Three Kings (Trzech Króli) is the traditional end of the Christmas season in Poland (even though the trees might stay up well into Feb). See what all the fuss is about by joining this procession, which will comprise costumed and carolling people of all ages. The start is at ul. Piwna, and the finish line at the Green Gate, where the Three Kings will bestow gifts upon Baby Jesus. Qwww.gdansk.orszak.org. Event starts at 11:30.

THREE KINGS’ DAY PROCESSION

THE GREAT ELF FACTORY

Willy Wonka’s Factory meets Santa’s Workshop in this interactive Christmassy attraction. Over the course of 2.5h, children (divided into appropriate age groups) will attempt to help the elves build a toy by completing tasks at ten special workstations. The experience also includes fun on the Elf Slide, a visit to Santa’s office, a “warm snowball”fight, working the way through a labyrinth, and - to top it all off - a meeting with Santa, who will hand out certificates and badges. Adults can come along or pass time in the Elf Cafe. QGdańsk, AmberExpo, ul. Żaglowa 11, www.wielkafabrykaelfow.pl. Tickets 49.99-59.99zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS 05.12 SATURDAY  23.12 WEDNESDAY

CHRISTMAS FAIR ‘Tis the season for Christmas markets (not that anyone’s complaining) - and to get everyone in a festive mood, the Coal Market (Targ Węglowy) will turn into a quaint Christmassy village offering decorations and treats galore, woollen scarves and socks, handmade jewellery, children’s toys, mulled wine, and hot cider. There will also be a carousel and ice-skating rink for kids. QB-4, Gdańsk, Targ Węglowy, www.bozonarodzeniowy.gda.pl. www.bozonarodzeniowy.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 19.12 SATURDAY  23.12 WEDNESDAY

CHRISTMAS FAIR

It’s that time of year again... let the Christmas markets spring up like deranged candy-cane-striped mushrooms. You know the deal: there will be cute regional crafts (souvenir shopping!), gingerbread, mulled wine and mulled beer, wintertime snacks and gifts and contests. QM-4, Skwer Kuracyjny. Open 15:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

09.01 SATURDAY

AMBER CUP

Can’t wait for EURO 2016? Here’s a little something to tide you over: the Amber Cup indoor football tournament starring some of Poland’s best teams and players (as well as amateurs). The Ergo Arena will host the tournament final.QGdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka). Event starts at 13:00. Tickets Tickets 0-49zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). 15.01 FRIDAY  31.01 SUNDAY

EUROPEAN HANDBALL CHAMPIONSHIP

Yes, Poland is hosting the European Handball Championship in 2016, and the Tri-City Ergo Arena will see group D teams fighting to advance to the next stage. Here’s the schedule:

WORLD SNOOKER: GDYNIA OPEN

Jan 16th: Hungary vs Montenegro and Denmark vs Russia Jan 18th: Russia vs Hungary and Montenegro vs Denmark Jan 20th: Russia vs Montenegro and Denmark vs Hungary Gdańsk/Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), pol2016.ehf-euro.com. Tickets 29-99zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). Q

THEATRE

31.12 THURSDAY

GDAŃSK NEW YEAR’S EVE NIGHT If you don’t feel like paying an arm and a leg for a glass of champagne and a soggy sandwich at a fancy club, and you don’t mind boozed-up and oft-obnoxious crowds, then get your New Year’s kicks at the Coal Market (Targ Węglowy) with an outdoor concert featuring Ray Wilson (yes, really). QB-4, Gdańsk, Targ Węglowy. Event starts at 22:00. Admission free. 31.12 THURSDAY

GDYNIA NEW YEAR’S EVE NIGHT An alternative to expensive club parties, this free outdoor concert will feature a number of reasonably popular Polish artists and fireworks at midnight. QO-1, Gdynia, Skwer Kościuszki. Event starts at 20:15. Admission free. 26 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

SPORT

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

19.12 SATURDAY

LORD OF THE DANCE

 The Irish music/dance show extraordinaire is on tour again. Produced and directed by the multi-talented Michael Flatley, whose lightning-quick footwork set two Guinness World Records for tapping speed (28 and 35 taps per second, if you were wondering), the musical tells a classic tale of good vs evil based on ancient Irish folklore. If you miss them in Gdańsk, the troupe will also be performing in Wrocław, Katowice and Warsaw.QGdańsk/ Sopot, Ergo Arena, Pl. Dwóch Miast (Żabianka), www. makroconcert.com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 125-195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdańsk, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, B-2; open 08:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants

26.02 FRIDAY  28.02 SUNDAY

WORLD SNOOKER: GDYNIA OPEN  The World Snooker Snooker European Tour Tour is coming to Gdynia! You can expect the sport’s best competitors, and p lenty of action, and... uh... oh, who are we kidding, we don’t know  jack about snooker. snooker.It’s the same same thing thing as as pool,right? Sign up to compete if there’s still time, or buy tickets to watch those billiards players do what they presumably do best. QGdynia, Gdynia Arena, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 8 (Redłowo), www.etgdyniaopen.pl. Tickets 60-120zł, pass 240zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68, N-2; Open 09:00 - 20:00; Sat 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 10:00 - 18:00). December 2015 - April 2016 27

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating

Facilitiess for the disabled U Facilitie

S  Take away away

X Smoking room available

V Home delivery

W Wi-fi connection

E Live music

Y  Tourist card

 AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE

There are are so  some me very c lassy lassy ven es in town, , su such ch as Wr  Wr z  sz cz’  cz’ ’ s V  l l la  Upha Uphagen gena, a, w  ere re you  you ca cann enjo  j   y fine n di ning ning at at gr  gr  t pric  s

 The choice of dining continues to improve and they really are some top-class restaurants around now with a few offering a ridiculously good quality to price ratio if you are visiting from abroad. The figures in brackets denote the checked price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the menu. The opening hours we list are flexible in that these are the hours the venue has told us you can expect the chef to be working. If business is slow people will have no qualms about shutting early. Service in general is not very good so please reward polite, pleasant and effi cient cient service to encourage others. Beware of using ‘thank you’when paying for your bill. This is often taken to mean ‘Keep the change’. Please note that with an ever increasing number of bars and restaurants the following is a list of places, which in our opinion are well worthy of our recommendation (to go to or to stay away from). For many more reviews check out our website at gdansk.inyourpocket.com. In th meantime here are some tips depending on what you’re looking for. LOCAL Check out the local Gdansk cuisine in Gdanska Gdanska   or try Kubicki for Kubicki  for a modern take on traditional local dishes. If it’s pierogi you want then try Familia Bistro, while Bistro, while Kotlet Kotlet is  is a new place we like for traditional, homemade Polish grub. Goldwasser is Goldwasser  is one of our favourites with great food and a view over the river from their terrace. Check out their collectable sets of Goldwasser liquer. We’re by the sea so local also typically means fish. There’s a number of good places but our favourites are Targ Rybny, Rybny, Tawerna Tawerna,, or Morska.. Morska 28 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CHEAP  The legendary legendary Bar Pod Rybą does Rybą does an excellent line in baked potatoes served with a wide choice of toppings while we love Nalesnikowo Nalesnikowo   for pancakes and crepes. Alternatively take a step back in time and eat in one of the ‘ Milk Bars’ Bars’ where basic and very cheap food is served up in a pre1989 atmosphere. It’s Tesoro Express for Express for the best pizza in Sopot while Greenway Greenway’s’s popularity with the local student community there should be all the reference you need. COUPLES Cyrano et Roxane is Roxane  is good for low key trysts with an owner who will make you feel very important. Along the seafront is Bulaj Bulaj which  which serves excellent fish, among other dishes, in a wooden beach house among the sand dunes. On a pleasant evening a stroll back to town along the beach can feel very romantic. Not just for couples but Filharmonia is one of the city’s standout restaurant both for food and wonderful views from their terrace. Gdynia is able to boast one of the best restaurants in all three cities these days thanks to Sztuczka Sztuczka.. Bring your better half here to impress with food and service. SPLURGE Prices are still competitive compared to Scandinavia and Western Europe so nowhere is going to have you seeing stars. For a special occasion visit the city’s most historic restaurant in the former Der Lachs distillery, where Lech Walesa takes his foreign guests - Pod Lososiem. Lososiem. The jawdropping Sopot 737 L’Entre Villes set Villes set inside a beautiful villa is THE place to try out at the moment while you can enjoy a top class meal in quiet surroundings at Mercato Mercato.. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Gdansk’s Hard Rock Café sits proudly on the main square and its arrival has been well-received judging by the trade it’s doing. While the trusted menu of burgers, steaks, ribs, wings and cocktails is instantly familiar, the level of service is a welcome bonus and probably one of the reasons that it keeps drawing the visitors in (competitors take note). There’s a stage for live music (check FB for details) and a great terrace for people watching in the good weather. Finish up by making the local authority marketing people happy by purchasing a stack of HRC Gdansk t-shirts in the adjacent store. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35-38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock. com/gdansk. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (33-79zł). TUGW

PUB CHARLIE First off, there’s live sports on the screens and secondly, some top notch American eats which are good enough to see this place landing a mention in our restaurant section. A better burger you won’t find in Sopot, and this being a hotel bar you can also expect it to arrive promptly and without incident. QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 16, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. (16-64zł). TYUGSW

TOM’S DINER  There’s a lot in Tom’s Diner’s favour not least the fact that Hard Rock Café is over 20km away in Gdansk, so if it’s burgers and wings that you want and you’re in Gdynia this is the place for you. To be fair it’s pretty good and everything from the strips to the wings to the Bourbon burger to the NY Steak were quickly cleared from the respective plates. Some of the décor might be a bit naff (who makes these Gasoline signs these days?) but if you want to see Mick Jagger’s jacket on the wall while you’re eating you have to pay more for your burger than you do here. What we particularly liked was the friendly service which managed to deliver everything promptly and in the right order at the right time and the fact they had a genuine play area for small children and a remote control they weren’t afraid to use on the big screen TV for the kids (cartoons) and their dad (the match). QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 47, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 380 09 11, www.tomsdiner.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (22-85zł). TUGSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 29

Restaurants

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating

Facilitiess for the disabled U Facilitie

S  Take away away

X Smoking room available

V Home delivery

W Wi-fi connection

E Live music

Y  Tourist card

 AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE

There are are so  some me very c lassy lassy ven es in town, , su such ch as Wr  Wr z  sz cz’  cz’ ’ s V  l l la  Upha Uphagen gena, a, w  ere re you  you ca cann enjo  j   y fine n di ning ning at at gr  gr  t pric  s

 The choice of dining continues to improve and they really are some top-class restaurants around now with a few offering a ridiculously good quality to price ratio if you are visiting from abroad. The figures in brackets denote the checked price of the cheapest and dearest main course on the menu. The opening hours we list are flexible in that these are the hours the venue has told us you can expect the chef to be working. If business is slow people will have no qualms about shutting early. Service in general is not very good so please reward polite, pleasant and effi cient cient service to encourage others. Beware of using ‘thank you’when paying for your bill. This is often taken to mean ‘Keep the change’. Please note that with an ever increasing number of bars and restaurants the following is a list of places, which in our opinion are well worthy of our recommendation (to go to or to stay away from). For many more reviews check out our website at gdansk.inyourpocket.com. In th meantime here are some tips depending on what you’re looking for. LOCAL Check out the local Gdansk cuisine in Gdanska Gdanska   or try Kubicki for Kubicki  for a modern take on traditional local dishes. If it’s pierogi you want then try Familia Bistro, while Bistro, while Kotlet Kotlet is  is a new place we like for traditional, homemade Polish grub. Goldwasser is Goldwasser  is one of our favourites with great food and a view over the river from their terrace. Check out their collectable sets of Goldwasser liquer. We’re by the sea so local also typically means fish. There’s a number of good places but our favourites are Targ Rybny, Rybny, Tawerna Tawerna,, or Morska.. Morska

CHEAP  The legendary legendary Bar Pod Rybą does Rybą does an excellent line in baked potatoes served with a wide choice of toppings while we love Nalesnikowo Nalesnikowo   for pancakes and crepes. Alternatively take a step back in time and eat in one of the ‘ Milk Bars’ Bars’ where basic and very cheap food is served up in a pre1989 atmosphere. It’s Tesoro Express for Express for the best pizza in Sopot while Greenway Greenway’s’s popularity with the local student community there should be all the reference you need. COUPLES Cyrano et Roxane is Roxane  is good for low key trysts with an owner who will make you feel very important. Along the seafront is Bulaj Bulaj which  which serves excellent fish, among other dishes, in a wooden beach house among the sand dunes. On a pleasant evening a stroll back to town along the beach can feel very romantic. Not just for couples but Filharmonia is one of the city’s standout restaurant both for food and wonderful views from their terrace. Gdynia is able to boast one of the best restaurants in all three cities these days thanks to Sztuczka Sztuczka.. Bring your better half here to impress with food and service. SPLURGE Prices are still competitive compared to Scandinavia and Western Europe so nowhere is going to have you seeing stars. For a special occasion visit the city’s most historic restaurant in the former Der Lachs distillery, where Lech Walesa takes his foreign guests - Pod Lososiem. Lososiem. The jawdropping Sopot 737 L’Entre Villes set Villes set inside a beautiful villa is THE place to try out at the moment while you can enjoy a top class meal in quiet surroundings at Mercato Mercato..

28 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Gdansk’s Hard Rock Café sits proudly on the main square and its arrival has been well-received judging by the trade it’s doing. While the trusted menu of burgers, steaks, ribs, wings and cocktails is instantly familiar, the level of service is a welcome bonus and probably one of the reasons that it keeps drawing the visitors in (competitors take note). There’s a stage for live music (check FB for details) and a great terrace for people watching in the good weather. Finish up by making the local authority marketing people happy by purchasing a stack of HRC Gdansk t-shirts in the adjacent store. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35-38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock. com/gdansk. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (33-79zł). TUGW

PUB CHARLIE First off, there’s live sports on the screens and secondly, some top notch American eats which are good enough to see this place landing a mention in our restaurant section. A better burger you won’t find in Sopot, and this being a hotel bar you can also expect it to arrive promptly and without incident. QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59 (Hotel Haffner), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 16, www.hotelhaffner.pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. (16-64zł). TYUGSW

TOM’S DINER  There’s a lot in Tom’s Diner’s favour not least the fact that Hard Rock Café is over 20km away in Gdansk, so if it’s burgers and wings that you want and you’re in Gdynia this is the place for you. To be fair it’s pretty good and everything from the strips to the wings to the Bourbon burger to the NY Steak were quickly cleared from the respective plates. Some of the décor might be a bit naff (who makes these Gasoline signs these days?) but if you want to see Mick Jagger’s jacket on the wall while you’re eating you have to pay more for your burger than you do here. What we particularly liked was the friendly service which managed to deliver everything promptly and in the right order at the right time and the fact they had a genuine play area for small children and a remote control they weren’t afraid to use on the big screen TV for the kids (cartoons) and their dad (the match). QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 47, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 380 09 11, www.tomsdiner.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (22-85zł). TUGSW December 2015 - April 2016 29

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants FOOD TRUCKS

Restaurants BURGERS BISTRO MAŁPA Burger joints have been the latest fad to hit the Tri-city and having sampled so many we’ve started to favour particular places on particular days. Malpa Burger is the place to go if you want a high quality piece of meat, prepared like a steak to all intents and purposes, with a choice of quality buns to match it with. This place, tucked into a less walked street but just seconds from the Bohaterow Monte Cassino, is the classiest burger we’ve tried though you might not guess it from the number of customers some days. Do not let that put you off. QL-4, ul. Podjazd 5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 721 84 04 04, www. malpabistro.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (5-29zł). T6UGSW

 The biggest new trend on the Polish eating scene has been the explosion (not literally) of food trucks. It began a couple years back in Warsaw with converted vans selling burgers to the late-night crowd but has since seen numerous vans appearing which offer all sorts of quick and easy food to hungry queues of people throughout the day. It was recently estimated that there are over 30 plying their trade on the streets of the Tri-city and we’ve picked out our favourites here. Seeing as they are mobile you’ll need to check their Facebook pages to see where they are parked up each day, but one spot you’ll typically find them is next to the Covered Market on Pl. Dominikanski in Gdansk.

BELGIJKI Belgian fries are the order of the day here - thick cut, served in paper cones with ketchup and (something that we’ve never become accustomed to) mayonnaise.Q(5-10zł).

SURF BURGER We’re not absolutely certain but we think these boys were one of the first to bring the food truck idea to the  Tri-city. The fact that not only are they still one of the most popular despite the explosion in competition but that they’ve also opened a second van and a burger restaurant at a fixed address in Gdansk, should tell you how good the burgers are. Q(5-19zł).

KULTOWE ZAPIEKANKI  The zapiekanka is the traditional late night Polish classic. It’s basically a French stick pizza and comes with cheese, a choice of toppings and typically lashings of tomato sauce. This van serves very good, freshly prepared zapiekanki and if you want to eat ‘local’this is the place for you. Q(11-16zł).

MUKA If you want something fast but want to try to eat a bit healthier, than Muka is the one for you. They serve freshly prepared falafel and panini with a choice of fillings.Q(10-15zł). 30 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

A seasonal menu, updated daily with the unique dishes created by our chef Adam Głowiński, a rich selection of wine, the best spirits from around the world and classic and original cocktails with and without alcohol.

CARMNIK KANTYNA Having developed a strong reputation for good burgers out of their van, the people at Carmnik (a play on the English word ‘car’and car’and the Polish word ‘to feed’) have set down roots in the centre of Gdynia. Decent burgers now served with a roof over your head.QN-1, ul. Abrahama 21/23, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 572 51 42 99, www.carmnik.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (16-32zł). 6GS

instagram.com/in_your_pocket ORIGINAL BURGER Simple food is done both well and inexpensively here. No prizes for guessing that the stars of the menu are the burgers and the freshly prepared patties are cooked to order and come served on fresh buns with a choice of toppings. Closer to an American style burger than anything you’ll likely receive when ordering from a fast food window in Polska, the calorie hit is rounded off by crispy fries and onion rings. There are non-burger options too, such as salads and while the salad and fish on the adjacent table looked appetising there was no way we’d have swapped it for our Classic with cheese which was very good indeed. Un-town hall prices also mean you leave with a smile. One tip. This being Poland expect gherkins to be included in your toppings unless you specify otherwise. QC-4, ul. Długa 47/49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 306 77 63, www. originalburger.pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:30 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:30. (17-26zł). 6VGSW

SURF BURGER A really popular burger joint a little way outside of the old town. The Surf Burger people were one of the first to grasp the food truck trend and combined the novelty with a great choice of burgers to build a large and loyal following. QB-3, ul. Garncarska 30, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 526 06 06. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (12-20zł). T6UVSW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

We invite you every day from 12:00.

Restauracja Morska Morska 9, 81-764 Sopot tel 58 3513555 www.morska.com.pl facebook.com/morskasopot

CHINESE

CROATIAN

YANG GUANG

DALMACIJA

A good choice for big, greasy helpings of Chinese comfort food. The interiors are an improbable mix of lanterns and fans juxtaposed against dark shadows and Ye Olde Danzig furnishings, and while it doesn’t look p articularly enthralling it’s unlikely you’ll come away feeling anything less than deeply satisfied - no small praise in a city still struggling to embrace the concept of ethnic food. QD-5, ul. Stągiewna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 58 45, www.chinska-gdansk. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-68zł). VGBSW

A very good Croatian restaurant on Gdynia’s main street.  The decor follows the fishin g villag e cottage theme and is a bright clean space to enjoy very tasty and generous dishes which feature lots of lamb. The main courses come with potatoes, rice and salad ensuring that you need not eat again that day at prices that make it one of the best options in the city. QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 51, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 17 30, www.dalmacija. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (26-42zł). TGS

GEORGIAN

CZECH

OCNEBA

BOHEMIA BEER CAFE

 This 2014 newbie sums up Tri- city dining perfectly. First, another new cuisine adds to the growing list the city has to offer. Excellent. Secondly, very good food and new dishes to try such as Czanachi (delicious lamb hotpot with potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant and paprika). And finally service that is so far out of its depth if more than two tables are busy that it should be wearing armbands. It’s not a big place so here’s hoping they get the hang of it - we want to go back. QM-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 36/5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 26 32 25, www.ocneba.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (18-40zł). TGS facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

A Czech/Bavarian themed restaurant and bar in the attractive setting of what once served as the Royal Stables. The menu is a collection of dishes you’d expect to find in a Munich or Czech beer hall with pork knuckle, potato pancakes and Czech knedle alongside traditional Polish dishes like pierogi. Of particular note is the range of international beer including Belgian, Czech, Slovakian and locally produced beers which are complimented by special light and dark brews produced exclusively for Bohemia. Q B-4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 690 67 06 90, www.bohemia.gda.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (24-49zł). UGSW December 2015 - April 2016 31

Restaurants

Restaurants BURGERS

FOOD TRUCKS

BISTRO MAŁPA Burger joints have been the latest fad to hit the Tri-city and having sampled so many we’ve started to favour particular places on particular days. Malpa Burger is the place to go if you want a high quality piece of meat, prepared like a steak to all intents and purposes, with a choice of quality buns to match it with. This place, tucked into a less walked street but just seconds from the Bohaterow Monte Cassino, is the classiest burger we’ve tried though you might not guess it from the number of customers some days. Do not let that put you off. QL-4, ul. Podjazd 5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 721 84 04 04, www. malpabistro.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (5-29zł). T6UGSW  The biggest new trend on the Polish eating scene has been the explosion (not literally) of food trucks. It began a couple years back in Warsaw with converted vans selling burgers to the late-night crowd but has since seen numerous vans appearing which offer all sorts of quick and easy food to hungry queues of people throughout the day. It was recently estimated that there are over 30 plying their trade on the streets of the Tri-city and we’ve picked out our favourites here. Seeing as they are mobile you’ll need to check their Facebook pages to see where they are parked up each day, but one spot you’ll typically find them is next to the Covered Market on Pl. Dominikanski in Gdansk.

BELGIJKI Belgian fries are the order of the day here - thick cut, served in paper cones with ketchup and (something that we’ve never become accustomed to) mayonnaise.Q(5-10zł).

SURF BURGER We’re not absolutely certain but we think these boys were one of the first to bring the food truck idea to the  Tri-city. The fact that not only are they still one of the most popular despite the explosion in competition but that they’ve also opened a second van and a burger restaurant at a fixed address in Gdansk, should tell you how good the burgers are. Q(5-19zł).

KULTOWE ZAPIEKANKI  The zapiekanka is the traditional late night Polish classic. It’s basically a French stick pizza and comes with cheese, a choice of toppings and typically lashings of tomato sauce. This van serves very good, freshly prepared zapiekanki and if you want to eat ‘local’this is the place for you. Q(11-16zł).

MUKA If you want something fast but want to try to eat a bit healthier, than Muka is the one for you. They serve freshly prepared falafel and panini with a choice of fillings.Q(10-15zł).

A seasonal menu, updated daily with the unique dishes created by our chef Adam Głowiński, a rich selection of wine, the best spirits from around the world and classic and original cocktails with and without alcohol.

CARMNIK KANTYNA Having developed a strong reputation for good burgers out of their van, the people at Carmnik (a play on the English word ‘car’and car’and the Polish word ‘to feed’) have set down roots in the centre of Gdynia. Decent burgers now served with a roof over your head.QN-1, ul. Abrahama 21/23, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 572 51 42 99, www.carmnik.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (16-32zł). 6GS

instagram.com/in_your_pocket ORIGINAL BURGER Simple food is done both well and inexpensively here. No prizes for guessing that the stars of the menu are the burgers and the freshly prepared patties are cooked to order and come served on fresh buns with a choice of toppings. Closer to an American style burger than anything you’ll likely receive when ordering from a fast food window in Polska, the calorie hit is rounded off by crispy fries and onion rings. There are non-burger options too, such as salads and while the salad and fish on the adjacent table looked appetising there was no way we’d have swapped it for our Classic with cheese which was very good indeed. Un-town hall prices also mean you leave with a smile. One tip. This being Poland expect gherkins to be included in your toppings unless you specify otherwise. QC-4, ul. Długa 47/49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 306 77 63, www. originalburger.pl. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:30 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:30. (17-26zł). 6VGSW

SURF BURGER A really popular burger joint a little way outside of the old town. The Surf Burger people were one of the first to grasp the food truck trend and combined the novelty with a great choice of burgers to build a large and loyal following. QB-3, ul. Garncarska 30, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 526 06 06. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (12-20zł). T6UVSW

30 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

We invite you every day from 12:00.

Restauracja Morska Morska 9, 81-764 Sopot tel 58 3513555 www.morska.com.pl facebook.com/morskasopot

CHINESE

CROATIAN

YANG GUANG

DALMACIJA

A good choice for big, greasy helpings of Chinese comfort food. The interiors are an improbable mix of lanterns and fans juxtaposed against dark shadows and Ye Olde Danzig furnishings, and while it doesn’t look p articularly enthralling it’s unlikely you’ll come away feeling anything less than deeply satisfied - no small praise in a city still struggling to embrace the concept of ethnic food. QD-5, ul. Stągiewna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 58 45, www.chinska-gdansk. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-68zł). VGBSW

A very good Croatian restaurant on Gdynia’s main street.  The decor follows the fishin g villag e cottage theme and is a bright clean space to enjoy very tasty and generous dishes which feature lots of lamb. The main courses come with potatoes, rice and salad ensuring that you need not eat again that day at prices that make it one of the best options in the city. QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 51, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 621 17 30, www.dalmacija. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (26-42zł). TGS

GEORGIAN

CZECH

OCNEBA

BOHEMIA BEER CAFE

 This 2014 newbie sums up Tri- city dining perfectly. First, another new cuisine adds to the growing list the city has to offer. Excellent. Secondly, very good food and new dishes to try such as Czanachi (delicious lamb hotpot with potatoes, mushrooms, eggplant and paprika). And finally service that is so far out of its depth if more than two tables are busy that it should be wearing armbands. It’s not a big place so here’s hoping they get the hang of it - we want to go back. QM-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 36/5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 26 32 25, www.ocneba.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (18-40zł). TGS

A Czech/Bavarian themed restaurant and bar in the attractive setting of what once served as the Royal Stables. The menu is a collection of dishes you’d expect to find in a Munich or Czech beer hall with pork knuckle, potato pancakes and Czech knedle alongside traditional Polish dishes like pierogi. Of particular note is the range of international beer including Belgian, Czech, Slovakian and locally produced beers which are complimented by special light and dark brews produced exclusively for Bohemia. Q B-4, ul. Podgarbary 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 690 67 06 90, www.bohemia.gda.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (24-49zł). UGSW December 2015 - April 2016 31

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Restaurants

Restaurants

Cyrano et Roxane WINE BAR & RESAURAN Wine and cuisine from the south of France

changed and now you’ll find a huge villa overlooking the fishermen’s dock serving a long line of customers whatever the season. Certainly not as good or as cheap as it once was, this is still the place many people come to enjoy freshly prepared fish and chips, Polski style, and the fish soup here is our favourite. QM-5, Al. Wojska Polskiego 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 06 61, www.barprzystan.pl. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (15-50zł). TUGSW

MORSKA Found on a side street close to Monte Cassino the decor is bright and modern, the ser vice friendly and professional and the dishes original and tasty. The spicy fish soup comes brimming with squid, shrimp, oysters and cod and is delicious and while fish is its strong suit the menu is not limited to that as witnessed by the mouthwatering steak on an adjoining table. A very pleasant experience all round and recommended for an enjoyable romantic meal or evening with friends. A good choice of Italian wine as well incidentally.QM-4, ul. Morska 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 351 35 55, www.morska.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (27-91zł). GW

TARG RYBNY � FISHMARKT Ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, 81-704 Sopot Tel. +48 660 759 594, [email protected] www.cyrano-roxane.pl Open from 13.00 till 22.00

FISH BARRACUDA Amodernstructurewithsmoothwoods,bubblingportholesand aquariums full of nervous looking fish. Seafront views are made all the more accessible by floor-to-ceiling windows, making this sunset dining at its best. Expect high quality fish inside a hip airconditioned interior, with a menu that also includes a few more carnivorousoptions.QO-3, Bulwar Nadmorski 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 80 00, www.barracuda.net.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (31-72zł). TUGSW

BAR PRZYSTAŃ A legend for Poles visiting the coast, this place has built a reputation since it opened in the nineties operating out of a converted beach-side toilet block. How times have

   



32 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

     

Without doubt one of the better restaurants in the town.  This place is a visual delight from the moment you enter, with warm light wood furnishings topped with check blue tablecloths and model fishing boats. The seafood is reputed as some of the best in town, and we’ve found no reason to dispute this. But fishy offerings be damned, we’ve discovered one more reason to visit and that’s the Argentinean steak, nicely concluded with a nip of Danzig liquor made to ancient recipes. QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 6c, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 11, www.targrybny.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-180zł). UGS

TAWERNA Entering Tawerna isn’t unlike walking the gangplank and boarding an 18th century galleon with its heavy woods, nautical trinkets and paintings of naval engagements. The chefs, trained in France, have cooked for dignitaries like the President of Poland, and while the menu is primarily famed for its seafood there’s also some highly rated Gallic dishes on show. QC-5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 41 14, www.tawerna.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35-99zł). T6UGSW



FRENCH A LA FRANÇAISE  This is a fantastic spot on the culinary map as much for its prices as for its wares. In Poland we’ve come to expect the word French next to a restaurant to equal ‘beaucoup d’argent’but not here. The menu is a selection of extremely well-priced, very tasty salads, crepes and filled baguettes with soups and daily main course specials for the hungrier among you. A great lunchtime stop, find it a little hidden away, across the river, 3 minutes walk from the Green Gate. QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 765 11 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (15-50zł). 6UGSW

Cuisine, produce and atmosphere all 100% simply...French. rench. "a la française"or française"or simply...F

CYRANO ET ROXANE A small nugget of France finds itself in Sopot in this tiny rail side cottage. Owned and run by Marc, a real-live native of Bergerac, this tiny treasure has an authentic tavern atmosphere, and wines hand-picked to compliment the nibbles and full mains on offer. Try, for instance, the French sausage platter, or for something more considerable peruse the daily special chalked up on the board or concise list of mains whose number include a super duck which is slow-cooked over twelve hours. Amongst the regional specialities on offer the foie gras, reputedly made from the owner’s grandfather’s recipe, is a memorable pleasure. QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660 75 95 94, www.cyrano-roxane. com. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (39-69zł). UGS

VERRES EN VERS It might come as a surprise to learn that top quality dining experiences on the central square are very limited. That’s not a criticism of what’s there, it’s just that they’re all targeting a different customer. If you are after something better the square-side Verres en Vers (found inside the building housing the Radisson Blu hotel) is fo r you. The menu as influences from France and Poland but many of the dishes, including our last experience – tuna with celeriac fries, are really international. Everything about the restaurant oozes professionalism and our only comment is that we much prefer visiting in warmer months when we can sit out on the terrace watch the crowds go by. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 19 (Radisson Blu Hotel), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 49, www.venv.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-100zł). TYUGW

A LA FRANCAISE ul. Spichrzowa 24/1 (entrance from Stągiewna), Gdańsk tel. +48 58 765 11 12 www.facebook.com/po.francusku

FUSION AVOCADO Found upstairs over the Unique Club, Avocado is up there amongst our favourite places in Sopot. While the sushi and sashimi sets are excellent we keep coming back to the wide range of fusion dishes with the beef tenderloin wasabi. The two young chefs holding court here look like they have learnt their trade in more exotic surroundings than Northern Poland and the flow of local and foreign voices seem to confirm they’re getting it right. The balcony terrace is one of the places to head for when the weather permitsQM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 585 83 28, www.avocado-sopot.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (20300zł). T6UGSW



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December 2015 - April 2016 33

Restaurants

Restaurants

Cyrano et Roxane WINE BAR & RESAURAN Wine and cuisine from the south of France

changed and now you’ll find a huge villa overlooking the fishermen’s dock serving a long line of customers whatever the season. Certainly not as good or as cheap as it once was, this is still the place many people come to enjoy freshly prepared fish and chips, Polski style, and the fish soup here is our favourite. QM-5, Al. Wojska Polskiego 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 06 61, www.barprzystan.pl. Open 09:30 - 23:00. (15-50zł). TUGSW

MORSKA Found on a side street close to Monte Cassino the decor is bright and modern, the ser vice friendly and professional and the dishes original and tasty. The spicy fish soup comes brimming with squid, shrimp, oysters and cod and is delicious and while fish is its strong suit the menu is not limited to that as witnessed by the mouthwatering steak on an adjoining table. A very pleasant experience all round and recommended for an enjoyable romantic meal or evening with friends. A good choice of Italian wine as well incidentally.QM-4, ul. Morska 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 351 35 55, www.morska.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (27-91zł). GW

TARG RYBNY � FISHMARKT Ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, 81-704 Sopot Tel. +48 660 759 594, [email protected] www.cyrano-roxane.pl Open from 13.00 till 22.00

FISH BARRACUDA Amodernstructurewithsmoothwoods,bubblingportholesand aquariums full of nervous looking fish. Seafront views are made all the more accessible by floor-to-ceiling windows, making this sunset dining at its best. Expect high quality fish inside a hip airconditioned interior, with a menu that also includes a few more carnivorousoptions.QO-3, Bulwar Nadmorski 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 80 00, www.barracuda.net.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (31-72zł). TUGSW

BAR PRZYSTAŃ A legend for Poles visiting the coast, this place has built a reputation since it opened in the nineties operating out of a converted beach-side toilet block. How times have

   



     

Without doubt one of the better restaurants in the town.  This place is a visual delight from the moment you enter, with warm light wood furnishings topped with check blue tablecloths and model fishing boats. The seafood is reputed as some of the best in town, and we’ve found no reason to dispute this. But fishy offerings be damned, we’ve discovered one more reason to visit and that’s the Argentinean steak, nicely concluded with a nip of Danzig liquor made to ancient recipes. QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 6c, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 11, www.targrybny.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-180zł). UGS

TAWERNA Entering Tawerna isn’t unlike walking the gangplank and boarding an 18th century galleon with its heavy woods, nautical trinkets and paintings of naval engagements. The chefs, trained in France, have cooked for dignitaries like the President of Poland, and while the menu is primarily famed for its seafood there’s also some highly rated Gallic dishes on show. QC-5, ul. Powroźnicza 19/20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 41 14, www.tawerna.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35-99zł). T6UGSW



32 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

FRENCH A LA FRANÇAISE  This is a fantastic spot on the culinary map as much for its prices as for its wares. In Poland we’ve come to expect the word French next to a restaurant to equal ‘beaucoup d’argent’but not here. The menu is a selection of extremely well-priced, very tasty salads, crepes and filled baguettes with soups and daily main course specials for the hungrier among you. A great lunchtime stop, find it a little hidden away, across the river, 3 minutes walk from the Green Gate. QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 24/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 765 11 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (15-50zł). 6UGSW

Cuisine, produce and atmosphere all 100% simply...French. rench. "a la française"or française"or simply...F

CYRANO ET ROXANE A small nugget of France finds itself in Sopot in this tiny rail side cottage. Owned and run by Marc, a real-live native of Bergerac, this tiny treasure has an authentic tavern atmosphere, and wines hand-picked to compliment the nibbles and full mains on offer. Try, for instance, the French sausage platter, or for something more considerable peruse the daily special chalked up on the board or concise list of mains whose number include a super duck which is slow-cooked over twelve hours. Amongst the regional specialities on offer the foie gras, reputedly made from the owner’s grandfather’s recipe, is a memorable pleasure. QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 660 75 95 94, www.cyrano-roxane. com. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (39-69zł). UGS

VERRES EN VERS It might come as a surprise to learn that top quality dining experiences on the central square are very limited. That’s not a criticism of what’s there, it’s just that they’re all targeting a different customer. If you are after something better the square-side Verres en Vers (found inside the building housing the Radisson Blu hotel) is fo r you. The menu as influences from France and Poland but many of the dishes, including our last experience – tuna with celeriac fries, are really international. Everything about the restaurant oozes professionalism and our only comment is that we much prefer visiting in warmer months when we can sit out on the terrace watch the crowds go by. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 19 (Radisson Blu Hotel), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 49, www.venv.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-100zł). TYUGW

A LA FRANCAISE ul. Spichrzowa 24/1 (entrance from Stągiewna), Gdańsk tel. +48 58 765 11 12 www.facebook.com/po.francusku

FUSION AVOCADO Found upstairs over the Unique Club, Avocado is up there amongst our favourite places in Sopot. While the sushi and sashimi sets are excellent we keep coming back to the wide range of fusion dishes with the beef tenderloin wasabi. The two young chefs holding court here look like they have learnt their trade in more exotic surroundings than Northern Poland and the flow of local and foreign voices seem to confirm they’re getting it right. The balcony terrace is one of the places to head for when the weather permitsQM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 585 83 28, www.avocado-sopot.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (20300zł). T6UGSW



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December 2015 - April 2016 33

Restaurants

Restaurants GREEK

INTERNATIONAL

EL GRECO

BELLEVUE RESTAURANT

One of the top meals you’ll find, hence a location offcentre has done nothing to dent the profits here. It’s big fun here, especially when the glittery trousered band appear to make some noise, but this is a restaurant first and foremost, and you won’t find the food scoring anything less than top marks. All the typical faves are served here, including superb lamb and octopus. QO-3, Al. Piłsudskiego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 77 52, www.el-greco.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70zł). T6UXSW

 This is very goo d, with a pleasant setting, friendly efficient service (hooray!) and a mouth-watering menu. The menu is a collection of interesting and tasty combinations of ingredients with all main bases covered and your challenge will be deciding what to have. Whichever decision you make you won’t go wrong. We can tell you the fish soup is delicious and for less than 5 Euros is excellent value; and the sirloin steak and shrimps with risotto was wonderful.  Though we recommend this as a place to come to spend a pleasant and relaxed evening, the lunch menu (served 10:00 - 16:00) is as good as we’ve seen if you need more than a sandwich but don’t want to ruin either yourself or your wallet at lunchtime. A menu available in English and Norwegian tells you much about the value o f the Krone in Gdansk these days while their child friendly service goes beyond a high chair with special crockery and cutlery for children. A limited number of tables makes reservations advisable.QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 10 AB, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 511 59 70 50. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. (28-99zł). TGSW

INDIAN MASALA Don’t let the stained tablecloths put you off. Table manners go out of the window in Masala, a small Indian spot attached to the side of the Madison Mall, and you’ll find locals and foreigners alike scooping up their curries with thick, fluffy por tions of naan. The chefs are imported from Delhi, though clearly enjoy working in Gdańsk - watch them chucking the spices in from behind the glass screen. Enjoy Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes from padded velvety sofas while Bollywood tunes keep the atmosphere authentic QB-2, ul. Rajska 10 (Madison Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 690 80 40. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (18-46zł). TUG BS W

TAJ MAHAL In a word excellent, though at these prices you’d bloody well expect so. This comes close to one of the best curries in Poland. Sparingly decorated with brass ornaments, wood petitions and a winged horse bursting from the wall, the Taj Mahal’s real strength lies in knock out curries that leave you tingling for hours. The Murgh Mekhani is fabulous, and perfectly preceded by a lentil soup with cream, while service is prompt, pleasant and worthy of the tip. Don’t miss it. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 86 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 92 11, www.tajmahal.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (2448zł). UGS

TANDOORI LOVE  The people behind this Indian bar/restaurant have a good track record with places like Rucola and Tapas de Rucola and they’ve carried it over here. The food is good but the portions strike you as small until you realise they’ve gone for a price range to keep trade brisk. Good for a light meal with a selection of Indian dishes including an acceptable chicken tikka masala and a friendly and helpful staff  (which shouldn’t be assumed in many Polish eateries). If you’re used to eating in Indian restaurants you’ll like it but you’d be advised to order double portions. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 41, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 72 07, www.tandoorilove.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (22-45zł). GSW 34 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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BISTRO&BAR A small, modern and friendly bistro close to St. Mary’s Basilica sees us make regular visits because of the kind of menu that always has something to offer, whatever the time of day or weather outside. Priding themselves on Polish classics and burgers there’s always something tasty, filling, attractively presented and well-priced either on their menu or on the daily specials board. Order one of those with one of their non-alcoholic cocktails. QC-4, ul. Piwna 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (16-27zł). 6UGBSW

          tel. 511 597 050, e-mail [email protected]   [email protected]  

BOCIAN MORSKI If you are looking to really treat yourself and your partner during your stay, tear yourself away from the bright lights of Monte Cassino to a this unassuming spot yards from the main square which has become a recent favourite. Set on a newly built square overlooking the fisherman’s fountain, this very attractive restaurant is set in one o f the fisherman’s style cottages and serves up some wonderful examples of modern Polish cuisine. Everything on the concise menu is beautifully presented and although fish, by reputation was and remains their strong suite don’t let that stop you from choosing anything on their changing menu. Pricey by local standards - but immensely good value by European ones.QM-4, ul. Pułaskiego 19/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 354 40 40, www.bocianmorski.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (24100zł). GBW

One of the best restaurants in Sopot For bookings call us: +48 512 540 300 or e-mail us: [email protected] [email protected] www.brasseriedor.pl

BRASSERIE D’OR

We offer tasting menu.

Set in a handsome, renovated Sopot Villa on one of our favourite streets in the city (check out a couple of the dilapidated villas) this is a restaurant set in a hotel - something we tend to avoid including. We make an exception to the surroundings when they are clearly goo d

Villa Antonina Sopot ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36A 81-706 Sopot www.villaantonina.pl

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December 2015 - April 2016 35

Restaurants

Restaurants GREEK

INTERNATIONAL

EL GRECO

BELLEVUE RESTAURANT

One of the top meals you’ll find, hence a location offcentre has done nothing to dent the profits here. It’s big fun here, especially when the glittery trousered band appear to make some noise, but this is a restaurant first and foremost, and you won’t find the food scoring anything less than top marks. All the typical faves are served here, including superb lamb and octopus. QO-3, Al. Piłsudskiego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 77 52, www.el-greco.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70zł). T6UXSW

 This is very goo d, with a pleasant setting, friendly efficient service (hooray!) and a mouth-watering menu. The menu is a collection of interesting and tasty combinations of ingredients with all main bases covered and your challenge will be deciding what to have. Whichever decision you make you won’t go wrong. We can tell you the fish soup is delicious and for less than 5 Euros is excellent value; and the sirloin steak and shrimps with risotto was wonderful.  Though we recommend this as a place to come to spend a pleasant and relaxed evening, the lunch menu (served 10:00 - 16:00) is as good as we’ve seen if you need more than a sandwich but don’t want to ruin either yourself or your wallet at lunchtime. A menu available in English and Norwegian tells you much about the value o f the Krone in Gdansk these days while their child friendly service goes beyond a high chair with special crockery and cutlery for children. A limited number of tables makes reservations advisable.QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 10 AB, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 511 59 70 50. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. (28-99zł). TGSW

INDIAN MASALA Don’t let the stained tablecloths put you off. Table manners go out of the window in Masala, a small Indian spot attached to the side of the Madison Mall, and you’ll find locals and foreigners alike scooping up their curries with thick, fluffy por tions of naan. The chefs are imported from Delhi, though clearly enjoy working in Gdańsk - watch them chucking the spices in from behind the glass screen. Enjoy Indian, Thai and Chinese dishes from padded velvety sofas while Bollywood tunes keep the atmosphere authentic QB-2, ul. Rajska 10 (Madison Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 690 80 40. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (18-46zł). TUG BS W

TAJ MAHAL In a word excellent, though at these prices you’d bloody well expect so. This comes close to one of the best curries in Poland. Sparingly decorated with brass ornaments, wood petitions and a winged horse bursting from the wall, the Taj Mahal’s real strength lies in knock out curries that leave you tingling for hours. The Murgh Mekhani is fabulous, and perfectly preceded by a lentil soup with cream, while service is prompt, pleasant and worthy of the tip. Don’t miss it. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 86 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 92 11, www.tajmahal.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (2448zł). UGS

TANDOORI LOVE  The people behind this Indian bar/restaurant have a good track record with places like Rucola and Tapas de Rucola and they’ve carried it over here. The food is good but the portions strike you as small until you realise they’ve gone for a price range to keep trade brisk. Good for a light meal with a selection of Indian dishes including an acceptable chicken tikka masala and a friendly and helpful staff  (which shouldn’t be assumed in many Polish eateries). If you’re used to eating in Indian restaurants you’ll like it but you’d be advised to order double portions. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 41, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 72 07, www.tandoorilove.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (22-45zł). GSW 34 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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BISTRO&BAR A small, modern and friendly bistro close to St. Mary’s Basilica sees us make regular visits because of the kind of menu that always has something to offer, whatever the time of day or weather outside. Priding themselves on Polish classics and burgers there’s always something tasty, filling, attractively presented and well-priced either on their menu or on the daily specials board. Order one of those with one of their non-alcoholic cocktails. QC-4, ul. Piwna 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (16-27zł). 6UGBSW

          tel. 511 597 050, e-mail [email protected]   [email protected]  

BOCIAN MORSKI If you are looking to really treat yourself and your partner during your stay, tear yourself away from the bright lights of Monte Cassino to a this unassuming spot yards from the main square which has become a recent favourite. Set on a newly built square overlooking the fisherman’s fountain, this very attractive restaurant is set in one o f the fisherman’s style cottages and serves up some wonderful examples of modern Polish cuisine. Everything on the concise menu is beautifully presented and although fish, by reputation was and remains their strong suite don’t let that stop you from choosing anything on their changing menu. Pricey by local standards - but immensely good value by European ones.QM-4, ul. Pułaskiego 19/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 354 40 40, www.bocianmorski.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (24100zł). GBW

One of the best restaurants in Sopot For bookings call us: +48 512 540 300 or e-mail us: [email protected] [email protected] www.brasseriedor.pl

BRASSERIE D’OR

We offer tasting menu.

Set in a handsome, renovated Sopot Villa on one of our favourite streets in the city (check out a couple of the dilapidated villas) this is a restaurant set in a hotel - something we tend to avoid including. We make an exception to the surroundings when they are clearly goo d

Villa Antonina Sopot ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36A 81-706 Sopot www.villaantonina.pl

December 2015 - April 2016 35

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Restaurants

Restaurants

he  th  T ry t  t beer bes t in Poland!

and that’s the case here. The menu is concise (good) with beef with parsnips, chickpeas and romaine lettuce worth the visit particularly if you are looking for a little peace away from the busy town centre. QL-3, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 54 03 00, www. brasseriedor.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (35-85zł). TUG SW

BROVARNIA Words can’t begin to do Brovarnia justice. If there’s a better beer in Poland we’d like to know about it, but not before we’ve finished road testing the menu. Indeed, the microbrewery is just one reason to visit. The chow here is top drawer with excellent mains to go with your beer such as pork knuckle, and a beer bites menu that includes chicken strips and a selection of flavoured lards - from spicy pepper to plum. The waitstaff are great at their jobs too spinning from table to table laden with beer jugs and plate of simple but well-prepared food. Head up the stairs for something a little more formal. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarn www.brovarnia.pl. ia.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (24-79zł). T6UEGSW

Restaurant Hotel Gdańsk and mini-brewery Brovarnia Gdańsk  Szafarnia 9 (at the yacht marina) tel. 58 320 19 70 [email protected]

BROWAR MIEJSKI SOPOT  This has developed into probably the most popular eatery in Sopot, its menu of Polish staples and international favourites proving a successful combination alongside its four in-house brewed beers from which the Pils is our favourite. An excellent location with a terrace overlooking the church and Monciak don’t hurt either and while it might not be the most memorable dining experience you could have in Sopot, sometimes a decent enough family meal at a good price in the centre of town is all you really want isn’t it? If that’s the case put this on your short-list. QM-3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 342 02 42, www.browarmiejskisopot.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). TUGSW

BULAJ

FILHARMONIA

 The kind of place we keep re-reviewing re-reviewing for no other reason than we like it so much. The beachside location is idyllic at any time of the year (summer secluded and shaded, winter secluded and cosy) and the team in the kitchen are wellestablished and know what they are doing. The main man here is well-known and well-respected (and by us wellliked) and his name is often associated with wonderful fish dishes. But there’s more to Bulaj than fish though that’s what we recommend you try to order. It’s a little way along the beach from the centre of Sopot but make an evening of it and you’ll not regret it. QM-3, Al. Mamuszki 22, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 51 29, www.bulaj.pl. Open 11:00 22:00. (29-99zł). T6UGSW

‘One of the top three restaurants in Poland’, one reader claimed about Filharmonia and we weren’t going to argue. What was once a municipal power plant is now an attractive waterside location for the Gdansk Philharmonic and features this restaurant with a fabulous menu combining the best Polish and Fusion cuisine has to offer with the latest molecular techniques in food science. In good weather take the chance to dine on the rooftop terrace, home to knockdead views of Gdańsk’s steepled skyline. Alternatively, head indoors to a breathtaking interior of red brick walls and theatrical murals. It’s recommended you make a reservation beforehand. QD-3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 83 58, www.restaur www.restauracjafilharmonia acjafilharmonia.pl. .pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (17-75zł). TYUGSW

FIDEL GASTRO BAR

We invite you from 09:00 to 24:00 ul. Szeroka 121/122; 80-835 Gdańsk; www.tekstyliacafe.pl; www.t ekstyliacafe.pl; +48 58 304-77-63 36 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

more beautifully priced with mains rarely topping the 30zl mark. It’s an attractive spot as well right on the square and the combination of the food, drinks and well-drilled staff  will see us giving this more than the occasional visit. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 607 83 28 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (20-59zł). T6UGSW

A very good new spot in the cluttered Sopot market. This is a bar/restaurant with a casual atmosphere, a great list of cocktails and an even greater selection of Tapas and main dishes covering Jerk chicken, ribs lighter bites like salads.  The dishes are original, beautifully presented and even gdansk.inyourpocket.com

GŁÓWNA OSOBOWA A fantastic little place a block away from the main thoroughfare, Swietojanska, with a relaxed atmosphere, a concise but regularly changing menu, great garden and most of all delicious food. Eyebrows were slightly raised at facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

the thought of ribs with peach and rhubarb but the reality was perfect while the duck with roasted orange, courgette and asparagus also won praise. This is the kind of place you can visit at any hour of the day and we suggest you do. Our one possible reservation is that it appears to be another place that has more seating than it can comfortably service so we shouldn’t encourage too many of you to visit. The name incidentally refers to the local train station and the theme is visible in the old-school train timetable thing they’ve got going on with the menu on the wall. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 39, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 730 63 00 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (18-28zł). T6UGSW

GOLDWASSER Still one of our favourite places and one of the best places to take guests in Gdansk, this atmospheric riverside restaurant features dishes like duck, fresh fish and delicious homemade pierogi and bread along with locally produced beer served by multi-lingual service. Relax in the classic Gdansk interior or hit the garden the moment the sun appears to enjoy one of the best choices of properly prepared steak in the city in the shadow of the city’s signature Crane (Żuraw or Krantor). Souvenir hunters should keep an eye out for the traditional Danzig spirits which have been re-born under the German owner and the Goldwasser liquer box sets make for an excellent souvenir. QD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (63-139zł). TGS December 2015 - April 2016 37

Restaurants

Restaurants

he  th  T ry t  t beer bes t in Poland!

and that’s the case here. The menu is concise (good) with beef with parsnips, chickpeas and romaine lettuce worth the visit particularly if you are looking for a little peace away from the busy town centre. QL-3, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 54 03 00, www. brasseriedor.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (35-85zł). TUG SW

BROVARNIA Words can’t begin to do Brovarnia justice. If there’s a better beer in Poland we’d like to know about it, but not before we’ve finished road testing the menu. Indeed, the microbrewery is just one reason to visit. The chow here is top drawer with excellent mains to go with your beer such as pork knuckle, and a beer bites menu that includes chicken strips and a selection of flavoured lards - from spicy pepper to plum. The waitstaff are great at their jobs too spinning from table to table laden with beer jugs and plate of simple but well-prepared food. Head up the stairs for something a little more formal. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarn www.brovarnia.pl. ia.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (24-79zł). T6UEGSW

Restaurant Hotel Gdańsk and mini-brewery Brovarnia Gdańsk  Szafarnia 9 (at the yacht marina) tel. 58 320 19 70 [email protected]

BROWAR MIEJSKI SOPOT  This has developed into probably the most popular eatery in Sopot, its menu of Polish staples and international favourites proving a successful combination alongside its four in-house brewed beers from which the Pils is our favourite. An excellent location with a terrace overlooking the church and Monciak don’t hurt either and while it might not be the most memorable dining experience you could have in Sopot, sometimes a decent enough family meal at a good price in the centre of town is all you really want isn’t it? If that’s the case put this on your short-list. QM-3, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 342 02 42, www.browarmiejskisopot.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). TUGSW

BULAJ

FILHARMONIA

 The kind of place we keep re-reviewing re-reviewing for no other reason than we like it so much. The beachside location is idyllic at any time of the year (summer secluded and shaded, winter secluded and cosy) and the team in the kitchen are wellestablished and know what they are doing. The main man here is well-known and well-respected (and by us wellliked) and his name is often associated with wonderful fish dishes. But there’s more to Bulaj than fish though that’s what we recommend you try to order. It’s a little way along the beach from the centre of Sopot but make an evening of it and you’ll not regret it. QM-3, Al. Mamuszki 22, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 51 29, www.bulaj.pl. Open 11:00 22:00. (29-99zł). T6UGSW

‘One of the top three restaurants in Poland’, one reader claimed about Filharmonia and we weren’t going to argue. What was once a municipal power plant is now an attractive waterside location for the Gdansk Philharmonic and features this restaurant with a fabulous menu combining the best Polish and Fusion cuisine has to offer with the latest molecular techniques in food science. In good weather take the chance to dine on the rooftop terrace, home to knockdead views of Gdańsk’s steepled skyline. Alternatively, head indoors to a breathtaking interior of red brick walls and theatrical murals. It’s recommended you make a reservation beforehand. QD-3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 83 58, www.restaur www.restauracjafilharmonia acjafilharmonia.pl. .pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (17-75zł). TYUGSW

FIDEL GASTRO BAR

We invite you from 09:00 to 24:00 ul. Szeroka 121/122; 80-835 Gdańsk; www.tekstyliacafe.pl; www.t ekstyliacafe.pl; +48 58 304-77-63

more beautifully priced with mains rarely topping the 30zl mark. It’s an attractive spot as well right on the square and the combination of the food, drinks and well-drilled staff  will see us giving this more than the occasional visit. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 607 83 28 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (20-59zł). T6UGSW

A very good new spot in the cluttered Sopot market. This is a bar/restaurant with a casual atmosphere, a great list of cocktails and an even greater selection of Tapas and main dishes covering Jerk chicken, ribs lighter bites like salads.  The dishes are original, beautifully presented and even

36 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

GŁÓWNA OSOBOWA A fantastic little place a block away from the main thoroughfare, Swietojanska, with a relaxed atmosphere, a concise but regularly changing menu, great garden and most of all delicious food. Eyebrows were slightly raised at facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants

the thought of ribs with peach and rhubarb but the reality was perfect while the duck with roasted orange, courgette and asparagus also won praise. This is the kind of place you can visit at any hour of the day and we suggest you do. Our one possible reservation is that it appears to be another place that has more seating than it can comfortably service so we shouldn’t encourage too many of you to visit. The name incidentally refers to the local train station and the theme is visible in the old-school train timetable thing they’ve got going on with the menu on the wall. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 39, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 730 63 00 00. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (18-28zł). T6UGSW

GOLDWASSER Still one of our favourite places and one of the best places to take guests in Gdansk, this atmospheric riverside restaurant features dishes like duck, fresh fish and delicious homemade pierogi and bread along with locally produced beer served by multi-lingual service. Relax in the classic Gdansk interior or hit the garden the moment the sun appears to enjoy one of the best choices of properly prepared steak in the city in the shadow of the city’s signature Crane (Żuraw or Krantor). Souvenir hunters should keep an eye out for the traditional Danzig spirits which have been re-born under the German owner and the Goldwasser liquer box sets make for an excellent souvenir. QD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (63-139zł). TGS December 2015 - April 2016 37

Restaurants painful to swallow. While it is by no means cheap, the shrimp and salmon were excellent while the steak was cooked exactly as requested and tasted even better washed down with a recommended wine more than justifying the outlay.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 07 02 21. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (25-82zł). 6UGSW

PROLOGUE RESTAURANT & BAR Set in a rebuilt building on the quayside, this former shell stood for decades as a reminder of the destruction of WWII. You’d not believe that now when you step inside. Prologue is not just an attractive eatery in a great location, it’s a very good choice for dinner. The menu is concise, but has something for everyone and the daily specials marked up the blackboard next to the open kitchen demonstrate good food doesn’t need to be complicated. We enjoyed delicious snails in garlic, tender lamb shank with potatoes, mussels and a great burger and thick potato chips (not on the same plate of course) and a bottle of wine recommended by their friendly and professional staff. It’s quickly developed an excellent reputation and a strong following so do like we did and avoid disappointment by making a reservation. QD-3, ul. Grodzka 9, Gdańsk (entrance from u. Warka), tel. (+48) 58 526 59 09. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. (42-125zł). T6UW

      

                                    

Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot tel. +48 58 341 84 02, mob. +48 506 070 221 [email protected],, www.facebook.co [email protected] www.facebook.com/montevino m/montevino

RESTAURACJA KREW & WODA

HUMMUSLAND We’re calling this one peculiar but nonetheless worth inclusion. Set in the increasingly trendy lower part of Wrzeszcz this has got hipster written all over it. Plates of hummus come with extras such as pitta bread, falafel and small bowls of salad. The man on the counter during our visit was so cool he got quite frustrated when called upon to carry a plate of hummus to a table when the customer didn’t come and take it off the counter herself. Set in what was once a general store (see the photo on the wall of how the place looked over a century ago), it’s a good enough spot for lunch if what you want for lunch is a plate of hummus.QF-3, ul. Wajdeloty 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 515 75 94 34. Open 12:00 - 20:00. (14-17zł). T6S

MERCATO In a word - excellent. The Mercato is the in-house restaurant of the Hilton Gdansk hotel, but do not let that put you off. With a ground floor location opening out onto a terrace overlooking the river, this doesn’t feel like dining in a hotel in the slightest. The service is extremely professional as you would expect but it is the food that demands your visit.  The chef is a chap called Adam Wozniak apparently and he clearly knows his trade. The regularly changing menu is wonderfully original and although you might recognise a lot of the Polish ingredients (including sorrel, a herb a Polish MP once claimed he used to pull from railway embankments as a child to eat because he was so poor) you’ll not have seen them combined as you will here. On our visit a tasty so rrel soup was followed by a truly delicious 38 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

dish of wild boar bacon, smoked prunes, horseradish and mushrooms, while the stewed beef cheeks on our colleague’s plate looked equally appetising. We visited at lunch time but you could just as easily come to watch the light fade above the old town in the evening. QA-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 42, www. mercatorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-79zł). TUGSW

MONDO DI VINEGRE Well worth a visit regardless of whether you plan to visit the Emigration Museum exhibition in the same building.  The menu is concise and comes under the headings Seas & Oceans; Ponds & Lakes; Land & Islands; Sky (desserts) and Neverland (Kids menu). Feel free to pick and choose as we did which saw us presented with a spicy fish soup, shrimp in garlic and butter and one of the tastiest dishes we’ve tried in ages - a fluffy piece of cod baked in a light French pastry with aubergine and a caper vinaigrette. Views out over the harbour are a bonus and a trip here combined with a visit to the exhibition is absolutely recommended. Qul. Polska 1 (Emigration Museum), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 86 30 30. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (16-44zł). TUG SW

MONTE VINO Good food, a great selection of wine and a prime location overlooking the square suggest that while this might be enjoyable it is also likely to be pricey. The truth is not so gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Another reason to travel out of Sopot or Gdansk if you hadn’t considered a visit to Gdynia is Krew i Woda (literally Blood & Water) a very attractive casual dining spot which we really like because of the choice. The menu here is fairly eclectic with Thai soup and Thai beef appearing alongside burgers, fillet Mignon, chicken Madras and tagliatelle with salmon. What they do really well though is seafood and you’ll find a choice of dishes featuring mussels, oysters and lobster even if the kids in our group spent the meal praying one of the three lobsters in the homarium didn’t get to meet his fate during our visit. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 41, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 570 28 22 82, www.restauracjapieterwas.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (9-100zł). TGW

RESTAURACJA RITZ In Poland Basia Ritz is a pretty big name due in no small part to her victory in the Polish version of the Masterchef series. This venture sees Ms. Ritz personally (wo)manning the kitchen and the results are very impressive. We can personally recommend the liver starter which was beautifully prepared (crisp on the outside, melt in the mouth inside) followed by delicious pork steaks, wrapped in bacon with a plum sauce, crispy vegetables and pureed potato. By Polish standards the prices would be regarded as fairly high and the wait times longer than normal, but that reflects the quality of the ingredients and the care taken by the chef. Pretend you’re Gordon Ramsay and judge for yourselves.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 01 74, www.restauracja-ritz.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (39-99zł). T6UGW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Best seafood in Tricity Corner of Abrahama and Armii Krajowej Street, Gdynia Reservations:+48 570 282 282, kontakt@restauracjapieterw kontakt@resta uracjapieterwas.pl as.pl

December 2015 - April 2016 39

Restaurants

Restaurants painful to swallow. While it is by no means cheap, the shrimp and salmon were excellent while the steak was cooked exactly as requested and tasted even better washed down with a recommended wine more than justifying the outlay.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 07 02 21. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (25-82zł). 6UGSW

PROLOGUE RESTAURANT & BAR Set in a rebuilt building on the quayside, this former shell stood for decades as a reminder of the destruction of WWII. You’d not believe that now when you step inside. Prologue is not just an attractive eatery in a great location, it’s a very good choice for dinner. The menu is concise, but has something for everyone and the daily specials marked up the blackboard next to the open kitchen demonstrate good food doesn’t need to be complicated. We enjoyed delicious snails in garlic, tender lamb shank with potatoes, mussels and a great burger and thick potato chips (not on the same plate of course) and a bottle of wine recommended by their friendly and professional staff. It’s quickly developed an excellent reputation and a strong following so do like we did and avoid disappointment by making a reservation. QD-3, ul. Grodzka 9, Gdańsk (entrance from u. Warka), tel. (+48) 58 526 59 09. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. (42-125zł). T6UW

      

                                    

Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/9, Sopot tel. +48 58 341 84 02, mob. +48 506 070 221 [email protected],, www.facebook.co [email protected] www.facebook.com/montevino m/montevino

RESTAURACJA KREW & WODA

HUMMUSLAND We’re calling this one peculiar but nonetheless worth inclusion. Set in the increasingly trendy lower part of Wrzeszcz this has got hipster written all over it. Plates of hummus come with extras such as pitta bread, falafel and small bowls of salad. The man on the counter during our visit was so cool he got quite frustrated when called upon to carry a plate of hummus to a table when the customer didn’t come and take it off the counter herself. Set in what was once a general store (see the photo on the wall of how the place looked over a century ago), it’s a good enough spot for lunch if what you want for lunch is a plate of hummus.QF-3, ul. Wajdeloty 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 515 75 94 34. Open 12:00 - 20:00. (14-17zł). T6S

MERCATO In a word - excellent. The Mercato is the in-house restaurant of the Hilton Gdansk hotel, but do not let that put you off. With a ground floor location opening out onto a terrace overlooking the river, this doesn’t feel like dining in a hotel in the slightest. The service is extremely professional as you would expect but it is the food that demands your visit.  The chef is a chap called Adam Wozniak apparently and he clearly knows his trade. The regularly changing menu is wonderfully original and although you might recognise a lot of the Polish ingredients (including sorrel, a herb a Polish MP once claimed he used to pull from railway embankments as a child to eat because he was so poor) you’ll not have seen them combined as you will here. On our visit a tasty so rrel soup was followed by a truly delicious

dish of wild boar bacon, smoked prunes, horseradish and mushrooms, while the stewed beef cheeks on our colleague’s plate looked equally appetising. We visited at lunch time but you could just as easily come to watch the light fade above the old town in the evening. QA-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 42, www. mercatorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (39-79zł). TUGSW

MONDO DI VINEGRE Well worth a visit regardless of whether you plan to visit the Emigration Museum exhibition in the same building.  The menu is concise and comes under the headings Seas & Oceans; Ponds & Lakes; Land & Islands; Sky (desserts) and Neverland (Kids menu). Feel free to pick and choose as we did which saw us presented with a spicy fish soup, shrimp in garlic and butter and one of the tastiest dishes we’ve tried in ages - a fluffy piece of cod baked in a light French pastry with aubergine and a caper vinaigrette. Views out over the harbour are a bonus and a trip here combined with a visit to the exhibition is absolutely recommended. Qul. Polska 1 (Emigration Museum), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 86 30 30. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (16-44zł). TUG SW

MONTE VINO Good food, a great selection of wine and a prime location overlooking the square suggest that while this might be enjoyable it is also likely to be pricey. The truth is not so

38 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Another reason to travel out of Sopot or Gdansk if you hadn’t considered a visit to Gdynia is Krew i Woda (literally Blood & Water) a very attractive casual dining spot which we really like because of the choice. The menu here is fairly eclectic with Thai soup and Thai beef appearing alongside burgers, fillet Mignon, chicken Madras and tagliatelle with salmon. What they do really well though is seafood and you’ll find a choice of dishes featuring mussels, oysters and lobster even if the kids in our group spent the meal praying one of the three lobsters in the homarium didn’t get to meet his fate during our visit. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 41, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 570 28 22 82, www.restauracjapieterwas.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (9-100zł). TGW

RESTAURACJA RITZ In Poland Basia Ritz is a pretty big name due in no small part to her victory in the Polish version of the Masterchef series. This venture sees Ms. Ritz personally (wo)manning the kitchen and the results are very impressive. We can personally recommend the liver starter which was beautifully prepared (crisp on the outside, melt in the mouth inside) followed by delicious pork steaks, wrapped in bacon with a plum sauce, crispy vegetables and pureed potato. By Polish standards the prices would be regarded as fairly high and the wait times longer than normal, but that reflects the quality of the ingredients and the care taken by the chef. Pretend you’re Gordon Ramsay and judge for yourselves.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 01 74, www.restauracja-ritz.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (39-99zł). T6UGW

Best seafood in Tricity Corner of Abrahama and Armii Krajowej Street, Gdynia Reservations:+48 570 282 282, kontakt@restauracjapieterw kontakt@resta uracjapieterwas.pl as.pl

December 2015 - April 2016 39

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants

Restaurants RESTAURACJA SZTUCZKA

 A place that was created out of passion and unrestrained imagination. Enjoy fresh local produce and exotic flavors that fuse the four corners of the world. Open daily from 14.00 till the last guest ul. Monte Cassino 53 (Crooked House) 81-717 Sopot, tel. 58 555 53 55 www.rucola.pl

                

40 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

The best fish, seafood & regional cuisine

RUCOLA  The fact that this restaurant, tucked away in the rear of the Crooked House (Sopot’s landmark Krzywy Domek building), has been around for such a long time should tell you all enough about how good the food is. The owners are well-travelled and the menu is a collection of some of the favourite dishes discovered on their  journeys, sometimes replicated by using the original recipes; sometimes fused to create new exotic dishes. Our favourite continues to be the Moroccan Tagine, though we’ve learned to book ahead if there are a few of us planning on ordering it. It’s not just North African cuisine mind and you can expect well-prepared dishes from all corners of the globe including India, South America and the Far East. A thoroughly recommendable place with friendly staff. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53 (Crooked House), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 55, www. rucola.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (2464zł). TUGSW

SOPOT 737 L’ENTRE VILLES RESTAURANT

We offer high quality at an affordable price

European Modern Restaurant

Probably the most enjoyable meal we’ve had in Gdynia in years. This small, secluded venue (it’s metres from the main street but easy to miss) is an excellent example of the originality that we’ve always admired Gdynia’s restaurant scene for. The cuisine is described as ‘Author’s Cuisine’ which in this case means beautifully presented and very tasty dishes which use lots of familiar ingredients ingredients but mix and present them in original ways. We could have ordered anything on the menu but plumped for caramelised chicken livers which was excellent. If you’ve come from abroad we dare you to find food this good at these prices. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 40 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 24 94, www.sztuczka.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (35-68zł). UGW

A truly stunning venue with a menu and service to match.  The building that houses this two-storey restaurant was for many years an increasingly dilapidated turn of the century Sopot villa, the renovation of which has been beautifully executed. The venue oozes class with a modern look that embraces the historic setting and L’entrée villes serves as a multi-functional venue with a bistro, glazed winter garden, bar and winiarnia on the ground floor and a grand room on the first floor which can be adapted into a series of individual private rooms if required. The reason for your visit is the quite excellent bistro which serves beautifully prepared modern Polish and international dishes such as deer steak with swede, celery, bacon, broad bean, chocolate and chilli and Grilled Fjord Trout steak, saffron sauce with mussels, wild rice and homemade pickles. Prices are higher than many Sopot restaurants but the all-round return for your money is excellent. Recommended. QL-5, Al. Niepodleglosci 737, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 717 37 37, www.entrevilles.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (36-90zł). XW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

UL. SZAFARNIA10, 80-755 GDAŃSK, PHONE: + 48 58 600 85 00, RESTAURACJA@SZAF [email protected] ARNIA10.PL

SZAFARNIA 10

TRAFIK 

 The chefs,s, hea headed ded up by an awa award-w rd-winn inning ing cha chapp called ed Grzegorz Labuda, prepare delicious original dishes made with local produce - think Baltic sea- and Kashubian fresh-water fish; game; local vegetables and dairy products. This is served from an open kitchen into a smart restaurant whose large all-year terrace overlooks Granary Island with the wonderful backdrop of old town Gdansk. This has turned into one of our favourite spots in the city with the quality of the menu and the completely remodelled location a perfect example of how much has changed for the better in Gdansk in a relatively short time. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 600 85 00, www.szafarnia10.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (45-65zł).YUGBSW

It’s been around for some time now but Trafik doesn’t tire in our book. To be fair to them they were offering original, well-prepared and priced dishes before it caught on in many places and they are still a good spot for a decent lunch menu or evening meal. It’s modern and trendy without making you feel you’ve got to revamp your wardrobe to go there and the friendly staff contribute to the relaxed atmosphere. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 79 25, www. trafikgdynia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (22-64zł). TA6VGBSW

TEKSTYLIA By day, Tekstylia is the kind of unassuming coffee shop/lunch spot in which people feel comfortable slurping the rich żurek soup (laden with sausage) and hefty smoothies from behind laptop screens and newspapers. But as the hours tick by the patio becomes a popular happy hour spot and patrons begin to load up on Tekstylia’s meat-centric menu (which comes in an easy to read English option) that clearly denotes which dishes are traditional Polish entrees. The veal meatballs are a particular favourite, and we couldn’t help but order the fruity sangria to accompany it all. Of course the bar, which is illuminated by a large backlit sewing machine image, is happy to mix up coffee drinks along with cocktails well into the evening. QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (21-49zł). UGSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

TU’GETHER! A young team have set up this rather excellent little bistro  just outside the centre of Sopot which is worth seeking out.  The menu is very original and though though we weren’t weren’t that keen keen on our starter of lavender, smoked sardines and mussels we can honestly say we’ve never tried that combination of tastes before. Everything else our group tried though was top-class particularly the wild boar with baked leeks, salmon caviar and potato gratin. We would recommend you definitely visit but for a single fault which we simply can’t overlook (that is if you don’t count the fact they didn’t have an alcohol license). The ventilation or rather lack of it meant that everything we were wearing went straight in the washing machine when we got home. Dress down and give it a visit is our tip. QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 65, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 20 97 65. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (24-59zł). T6GS December 2015 - April 2016 41

Restaurants

Restaurants RESTAURACJA SZTUCZKA

 A place that was created out of passion and unrestrained imagination. Enjoy fresh local produce and exotic flavors that fuse the four corners of the world. Open daily from 14.00 till the last guest ul. Monte Cassino 53 (Crooked House) 81-717 Sopot, tel. 58 555 53 55 www.rucola.pl

                

The best fish, seafood & regional cuisine

RUCOLA  The fact that this restaurant, tucked away in the rear of the Crooked House (Sopot’s landmark Krzywy Domek building), has been around for such a long time should tell you all enough about how good the food is. The owners are well-travelled and the menu is a collection of some of the favourite dishes discovered on their  journeys, sometimes replicated by using the original recipes; sometimes fused to create new exotic dishes. Our favourite continues to be the Moroccan Tagine, though we’ve learned to book ahead if there are a few of us planning on ordering it. It’s not just North African cuisine mind and you can expect well-prepared dishes from all corners of the globe including India, South America and the Far East. A thoroughly recommendable place with friendly staff. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53 (Crooked House), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 55, www. rucola.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (2464zł). TUGSW

SOPOT 737 L’ENTRE VILLES RESTAURANT

We offer high quality at an affordable price

European Modern Restaurant

Probably the most enjoyable meal we’ve had in Gdynia in years. This small, secluded venue (it’s metres from the main street but easy to miss) is an excellent example of the originality that we’ve always admired Gdynia’s restaurant scene for. The cuisine is described as ‘Author’s Cuisine’ which in this case means beautifully presented and very tasty dishes which use lots of familiar ingredients ingredients but mix and present them in original ways. We could have ordered anything on the menu but plumped for caramelised chicken livers which was excellent. If you’ve come from abroad we dare you to find food this good at these prices. QN-1, ul. Abrahama 40 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 24 94, www.sztuczka.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (35-68zł). UGW

A truly stunning venue with a menu and service to match.  The building that houses this two-storey restaurant was for many years an increasingly dilapidated turn of the century Sopot villa, the renovation of which has been beautifully executed. The venue oozes class with a modern look that embraces the historic setting and L’entrée villes serves as a multi-functional venue with a bistro, glazed winter garden, bar and winiarnia on the ground floor and a grand room on the first floor which can be adapted into a series of individual private rooms if required. The reason for your visit is the quite excellent bistro which serves beautifully prepared modern Polish and international dishes such as deer steak with swede, celery, bacon, broad bean, chocolate and chilli and Grilled Fjord Trout steak, saffron sauce with mussels, wild rice and homemade pickles. Prices are higher than many Sopot restaurants but the all-round return for your money is excellent. Recommended. QL-5, Al. Niepodleglosci 737, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 717 37 37, www.entrevilles.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (36-90zł). XW

40 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

UL. SZAFARNIA10, 80-755 GDAŃSK, PHONE: + 48 58 600 85 00, RESTAURACJA@SZAF [email protected] ARNIA10.PL

SZAFARNIA 10

TRAFIK 

 The chefs,s, hea headed ded up by an awa award-w rd-winn inning ing cha chapp called ed Grzegorz Labuda, prepare delicious original dishes made with local produce - think Baltic sea- and Kashubian fresh-water fish; game; local vegetables and dairy products. This is served from an open kitchen into a smart restaurant whose large all-year terrace overlooks Granary Island with the wonderful backdrop of old town Gdansk. This has turned into one of our favourite spots in the city with the quality of the menu and the completely remodelled location a perfect example of how much has changed for the better in Gdansk in a relatively short time. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 600 85 00, www.szafarnia10.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (45-65zł).YUGBSW

It’s been around for some time now but Trafik doesn’t tire in our book. To be fair to them they were offering original, well-prepared and priced dishes before it caught on in many places and they are still a good spot for a decent lunch menu or evening meal. It’s modern and trendy without making you feel you’ve got to revamp your wardrobe to go there and the friendly staff contribute to the relaxed atmosphere. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 79 25, www. trafikgdynia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (22-64zł). TA6VGBSW

TEKSTYLIA By day, Tekstylia is the kind of unassuming coffee shop/lunch spot in which people feel comfortable slurping the rich żurek soup (laden with sausage) and hefty smoothies from behind laptop screens and newspapers. But as the hours tick by the patio becomes a popular happy hour spot and patrons begin to load up on Tekstylia’s meat-centric menu (which comes in an easy to read English option) that clearly denotes which dishes are traditional Polish entrees. The veal meatballs are a particular favourite, and we couldn’t help but order the fruity sangria to accompany it all. Of course the bar, which is illuminated by a large backlit sewing machine image, is happy to mix up coffee drinks along with cocktails well into the evening. QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (21-49zł). UGSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

TU’GETHER! A young team have set up this rather excellent little bistro  just outside the centre of Sopot which is worth seeking out.  The menu is very original and though though we weren’t weren’t that keen keen on our starter of lavender, smoked sardines and mussels we can honestly say we’ve never tried that combination of tastes before. Everything else our group tried though was top-class particularly the wild boar with baked leeks, salmon caviar and potato gratin. We would recommend you definitely visit but for a single fault which we simply can’t overlook (that is if you don’t count the fact they didn’t have an alcohol license). The ventilation or rather lack of it meant that everything we were wearing went straight in the washing machine when we got home. Dress down and give it a visit is our tip. QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 65, Sopot, tel. (+48) 506 20 97 65. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (24-59zł). T6GS December 2015 - April 2016 41

Restaurants

Restaurants

ITALIAN FELLINI A modern looking Italian with plush violet touches and light wooden panels which lend a chic, sexy swagger. Both menu and chef appear Italian guided rather than Italian focussed, and the result gives the menu a scope not enjoyed by the direct competition. The lamb is reputed to be the best in Gdańsk while they have now enclosed their terrace with glass and installed heating allowing you to sit outside during chillier weather.QD-3, Targ Rybny 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 719 76 20, www.restauracjafellini. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (35-79zł). TGBSW

GRONO DI RUCOLA VINEGRE

WINE BAR LITERACKA

Located on the top floor of the Naval Museum, enter via the museum entrance even if it looks closed during the evening and take the lift up to the third floor where the doors open onto an extremely attractive modern space with a large terrace, which despite its size still feels like a perfect spot for an intimate dinner. The menu is heavily influenced by the Mediterranean region and you’ll find a mouth-watering menu of tapas, salads, pastas, thin crust pizza, seafood and meat dishes. Professional and friendly service add extra points for one of our favourite places for entertaining visiting guests QO-1, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 798 08 07 98, www.vinegre.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (24-79zł). TUGW

Set in one of the chocolate box houses on the wonderful ul. Mariacka, this is a cosy three level bar with a comprehensive drinks list including an excellent selection of wine. Then there’s the menu so that you have another reason to visit. The wild boar tenderloin is a recommended dish, surrounded as Gdansk is by forests full of the beasts, while the tasty salad creations are recommended for those who want a lighter meal but not a plain one. There are over 100 hand-picked wines available of which you can try about 40 by the glass thanks to a device that the owners have invested in which allows bottles to be resealed. When the weather allows, head out onto the terrace to enjoy this great combination on one of the country’s most magical streets. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 50/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 43 14 51, www.literacka. gda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (21-89zł). 6GW

WILLA LUBICZ Beautifully prepared food served in an elegant dining room which is designed to recall the halcyon days of the 1930s when Gdynia was at the cutting edge of everything in Poland. Set out in the peaceful Orlowo district, a couple of minutes walk from a quiet beach and small pier, in the summer you can sit under the stars while dining on wild boar, while in winter enjoy the warmth of a log-burning fireplace. Well worth a visit if you appreciate a bit of peace and quiet in civilised surroundings over a glass of good wine.QO-6, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. cz.pl. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł). TUIGSW 42 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ŻURAW A small and cosy restaurant cafe which sits directly next to the city’s landmark Crane overlooking the waterfront. Despite its excellent location the prices of the salads, pierogi, meat and in particular fish dishes are kept reasonable and this is not the tourist trap you might expect. A breakfast menu featuring eggs with extras like salmon or cottage cheese or croissants makes this a notable place to start your day and their heated terrace allows you to sit out whatever the weather. QD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 32, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 25 38, www.restauracjazuraw.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (28-82zł).Y6GBSW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Another winner from the Rucola team. You’llll need to head out of the centre to the edge of the forest where you’ll find this beautiful wooden cottage overlooking the city’s athletics stadium (it is literally on the back straight of the 400m track). The menu is concise, changing and very original with a handful of dishes under the headings ‘Earth, Water, Garden and Sky’. Everything we had was top-class with special mention for the mix of tastes offered by the roasted leg of lamb on sweet potato pancake with cumin and stewed apple. Recommended. QL-4, ul. Wybickiego 48 , Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 719 65 69, www.gronodirucola. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (17-42zł). TGW

PIZZERIA MARGHERITA An encyclopaedic list of Italian classics cooked before your eyes by a chef not averse to bursting into the occasional song. The pizza is conceived inside a traditional brick o ven and this charming spot breathes an air of familiarity, making it popular with families fresh from the trials of a day spent observing the beasts of Oliwa Zoo. QE-2, ul. Cystersów 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 37 16, www.margherita.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (16-30zł). VNGSW

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANT AND ROOMS FOR RENT

PESCATORE We are fans of the Mera Hotel first and foremost because it’s a smashing looking building which came and beautified a section of the coast previously filled exclusively by ugly, socialist blocks. But a bit like Gwyneth Paltrow there’s more to it than looks. In the Mera’s case there’s an Italian restaurant on the first floor which combines good Italian cooking with a stylish restaurant that doesn’t feel like a typical hotel dining room. This is more upmarket than other Italian restaurants in the city but our duck ensured a return visit while our partner’s ravioli with scallops and prawns also met with approval. Prices are higher than in other Italian eateries but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 22, www. meraspahotel.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 23:00. (25-90zł). TUGW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Grono di Rucola is a recipe for joy! The restaurant at the Athletics Stadium ul. Wybickiego 48, Sopot, +48 58 719 65 69 Open: 13:00 - 22.00 [email protected], www.gronodirucola.pl www.facebook.com/gronodirucola

December 2015 - April 2016 43

Restaurants

Restaurants

ITALIAN FELLINI A modern looking Italian with plush violet touches and light wooden panels which lend a chic, sexy swagger. Both menu and chef appear Italian guided rather than Italian focussed, and the result gives the menu a scope not enjoyed by the direct competition. The lamb is reputed to be the best in Gdańsk while they have now enclosed their terrace with glass and installed heating allowing you to sit outside during chillier weather.QD-3, Targ Rybny 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 719 76 20, www.restauracjafellini. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (35-79zł). TGBSW

GRONO DI RUCOLA VINEGRE

WINE BAR LITERACKA

Located on the top floor of the Naval Museum, enter via the museum entrance even if it looks closed during the evening and take the lift up to the third floor where the doors open onto an extremely attractive modern space with a large terrace, which despite its size still feels like a perfect spot for an intimate dinner. The menu is heavily influenced by the Mediterranean region and you’ll find a mouth-watering menu of tapas, salads, pastas, thin crust pizza, seafood and meat dishes. Professional and friendly service add extra points for one of our favourite places for entertaining visiting guests QO-1, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 798 08 07 98, www.vinegre.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (24-79zł). TUGW

Set in one of the chocolate box houses on the wonderful ul. Mariacka, this is a cosy three level bar with a comprehensive drinks list including an excellent selection of wine. Then there’s the menu so that you have another reason to visit. The wild boar tenderloin is a recommended dish, surrounded as Gdansk is by forests full of the beasts, while the tasty salad creations are recommended for those who want a lighter meal but not a plain one. There are over 100 hand-picked wines available of which you can try about 40 by the glass thanks to a device that the owners have invested in which allows bottles to be resealed. When the weather allows, head out onto the terrace to enjoy this great combination on one of the country’s most magical streets. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 50/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 500 43 14 51, www.literacka. gda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (21-89zł). 6GW

WILLA LUBICZ Beautifully prepared food served in an elegant dining room which is designed to recall the halcyon days of the 1930s when Gdynia was at the cutting edge of everything in Poland. Set out in the peaceful Orlowo district, a couple of minutes walk from a quiet beach and small pier, in the summer you can sit under the stars while dining on wild boar, while in winter enjoy the warmth of a log-burning fireplace. Well worth a visit if you appreciate a bit of peace and quiet in civilised surroundings over a glass of good wine.QO-6, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. cz.pl. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł). TUIGSW

ŻURAW A small and cosy restaurant cafe which sits directly next to the city’s landmark Crane overlooking the waterfront. Despite its excellent location the prices of the salads, pierogi, meat and in particular fish dishes are kept reasonable and this is not the tourist trap you might expect. A breakfast menu featuring eggs with extras like salmon or cottage cheese or croissants makes this a notable place to start your day and their heated terrace allows you to sit out whatever the weather. QD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 32, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 25 38, www.restauracjazuraw.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (28-82zł).Y6GBSW

42 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Another winner from the Rucola team. You’llll need to head out of the centre to the edge of the forest where you’ll find this beautiful wooden cottage overlooking the city’s athletics stadium (it is literally on the back straight of the 400m track). The menu is concise, changing and very original with a handful of dishes under the headings ‘Earth, Water, Garden and Sky’. Everything we had was top-class with special mention for the mix of tastes offered by the roasted leg of lamb on sweet potato pancake with cumin and stewed apple. Recommended. QL-4, ul. Wybickiego 48 , Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 719 65 69, www.gronodirucola. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (17-42zł). TGW

An encyclopaedic list of Italian classics cooked before your eyes by a chef not averse to bursting into the occasional song. The pizza is conceived inside a traditional brick o ven and this charming spot breathes an air of familiarity, making it popular with families fresh from the trials of a day spent observing the beasts of Oliwa Zoo. QE-2, ul. Cystersów 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 37 16, www.margherita.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (16-30zł). VNGSW

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANT AND ROOMS FOR RENT

PESCATORE We are fans of the Mera Hotel first and foremost because it’s a smashing looking building which came and beautified a section of the coast previously filled exclusively by ugly, socialist blocks. But a bit like Gwyneth Paltrow there’s more to it than looks. In the Mera’s case there’s an Italian restaurant on the first floor which combines good Italian cooking with a stylish restaurant that doesn’t feel like a typical hotel dining room. This is more upmarket than other Italian restaurants in the city but our duck ensured a return visit while our partner’s ravioli with scallops and prawns also met with approval. Prices are higher than in other Italian eateries but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 22, www. meraspahotel.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 23:00. (25-90zł). TUGW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants

Grono di Rucola is a recipe for joy! The restaurant at the Athletics Stadium ul. Wybickiego 48, Sopot, +48 58 719 65 69 Open: 13:00 - 22.00 [email protected], www.gronodirucola.pl www.facebook.com/gronodirucola

December 2015 - April 2016 43

Restaurants RISTORANTEE LA CUCINA RISTORANT

TESORO

La Cucina is an attractive addition to the city’s dining scene and delivers good renditions of Italian classics in a light, bright space. Italian cuisine is done best, in our book at least, when it’s done simply and that is what we like about La Cucina. The pasta was cooked well and the accompanying sauce was tasty while the salad was fresh and not overdressed as can often be the problem. Prices are fair; the setting relaxed and perfect for a quiet meal without any unnecessary formality while the staff, by local standards at least, is friendly and effi cient. ent. They take the service that little bit further by bothering to provide the menu in the languages of their largest customer groups - go od news if you speak English, Russian, German or Norwegian. QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 44, www.lacucina.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-65zł). TUGSW

Italian owned and run Tesoro is a pasta/pizza restaurant which is very popular with the region’s growing Italian community, and a spread of local celebs. This is the real deal, and highly recommended. QM-5, ul. Polna 70, Sopot, tel. (+48) 793 34 44 97, www.restauracjatesoro. pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (30-85zł). TUGSW

RISTORANTE SEMPRE Sempre have now established themselves in one of the city’s landmark villas which once housed one of the country’s most famous clubs. There is a clean (some might suggest sterile) look featuring the chain’s trademark black and white flooring and simple furnishings in which you can enjoy their choice of very good pizza. Realistic pricing, particularly on the house wines and a wonderful location (especially in the warmer months when they open the best garden in any restaurant in Sopot) mean we’ll be going back despite the service regularly being, er what’s the word, oh yes - crap. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 49, Sopot (M-4); ul. Długa 6/7/8, Gdańsk (B-4) and ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk (D-3). Grunwaldzka 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 91 78, QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka www.semprepizza.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (15-45zł). T6GSW

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket SERIO We like. The first thing that struck us was how polite and professional the staff were when we walked in. Smiles and a sense that they were actually pleased to see you made for an untypical but excellent start. It didn’t end there. The décor of exposed brick and lots of wood makes it very cosy while the aromas coming from the cooking areas certainly were encouraging. The menu is concise with the antipasti, primi and secondi dishes all demanding due diligence. But it was for the pizza we came, prepared as we’d heard in a specially built oven imported from Naples. Those expecting the heavy topping of Pizza Hut style pie might be a little disappointed on first sight but don’t be. Our Salsiccia with home-made sausage was wonderful and surprisingly spicy while the home-made lemonade and orange cake dessert made for one of the best experiences of recent times. And all for less than 10 Euros.QN-1, ul. 3 Maja 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 534 58 83 88, www.pizzaserio.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (12-56zł). T6UGSW 44 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

PIZZERIA MARGHERITA

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TOSCANA RESTAURANT  Tucked away  Tucked away in atinycottag cottagee close ose to to the the Southern SouthernPark,many espouse this to be the best Italian restaurant in the north, and while the local competition has increased and improved in recent years they may still have a point. The Polish/Italian chef is a master of pasta, while Anna and her staff have perfected the art of spoiling their guests. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 27, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 86 65, www.moja-toscana.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (25-75zł). TY6UGSW

Ristorante Tesoro ul. Polna 70 81-740 Sopot  tel. +48 79 33 444 97 

TRATTORIA ANTICA A subterranean venue whose menu is short, sweet and very good. The antipasto proves divine, the ragu the best in Sopot (we also hear good things about the rabbit) and the desserts delicious. Search it and its friendly owner out down a staircase half-way up Monte Cassino 60 seconds from the Crooked House.QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 43, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 765 00 98, www.trattoriaantica.pl. Open 16:00 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł).T6GSW

Traditional Italian restaurant

BRUNCH MERA SPA HOTEL BRASSERIE

run with passion by Italian owners.

 The in-house brasserie brasserie of the Mera Spa hotel primarily primarily serves guests with well-prepared dishes with a Mediterranean accent, in smart surroundings close to the beach. Brunches run on Sundays from October to May. You You can spend the whole day at Mera with the family for one price which gives you access all areas and as much as you can eat or drink once the brunch starts. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 21, www. meraspahotel.pl. Brunch served on Sundays 13:00 17:00. Brunches 125zł per person (children under 5 years free, children 5 - 12 years 62,50zł). TUGW

WAVE During the week find a design space offering duck to die for and surf-and-turf dishes you just won’t find anywhere else. Naturally the prices are five star, yet represent one of the wiser investments you’ll make. Worth noting is their Sunday Brunch (13:30 - 18:00. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 61, www. sheraton.pl/sopot.. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00; sheraton.pl/sopot Fri 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30; Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 23:00; Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 13:30 - 18:00. (45-150zł). Sunday Brunch 150zł per person (4-12 year olds pay 50%, under 4s are free). TUGW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

We invite You to our second restaurant 

Tesoro Express ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11 81-704 Sopot  tel. +48 531 04 40 04 www.restauracjatesoro.pl December 2015 - April 2016 45

Restaurants

Restaurants RISTORANTEE LA CUCINA RISTORANT

TESORO

La Cucina is an attractive addition to the city’s dining scene and delivers good renditions of Italian classics in a light, bright space. Italian cuisine is done best, in our book at least, when it’s done simply and that is what we like about La Cucina. The pasta was cooked well and the accompanying sauce was tasty while the salad was fresh and not overdressed as can often be the problem. Prices are fair; the setting relaxed and perfect for a quiet meal without any unnecessary formality while the staff, by local standards at least, is friendly and effi cient. ent. They take the service that little bit further by bothering to provide the menu in the languages of their largest customer groups - go od news if you speak English, Russian, German or Norwegian. QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 44, www.lacucina.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-65zł). TUGSW

Italian owned and run Tesoro is a pasta/pizza restaurant which is very popular with the region’s growing Italian community, and a spread of local celebs. This is the real deal, and highly recommended. QM-5, ul. Polna 70, Sopot, tel. (+48) 793 34 44 97, www.restauracjatesoro. pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (30-85zł). TUGSW

RISTORANTE SEMPRE Sempre have now established themselves in one of the city’s landmark villas which once housed one of the country’s most famous clubs. There is a clean (some might suggest sterile) look featuring the chain’s trademark black and white flooring and simple furnishings in which you can enjoy their choice of very good pizza. Realistic pricing, particularly on the house wines and a wonderful location (especially in the warmer months when they open the best garden in any restaurant in Sopot) mean we’ll be going back despite the service regularly being, er what’s the word, oh yes - crap. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 49, Sopot (M-4); ul. Długa 6/7/8, Gdańsk (B-4) and ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk (D-3). Grunwaldzka 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 91 78, QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka www.semprepizza.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (15-45zł). T6GSW

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket SERIO We like. The first thing that struck us was how polite and professional the staff were when we walked in. Smiles and a sense that they were actually pleased to see you made for an untypical but excellent start. It didn’t end there. The décor of exposed brick and lots of wood makes it very cosy while the aromas coming from the cooking areas certainly were encouraging. The menu is concise with the antipasti, primi and secondi dishes all demanding due diligence. But it was for the pizza we came, prepared as we’d heard in a specially built oven imported from Naples. Those expecting the heavy topping of Pizza Hut style pie might be a little disappointed on first sight but don’t be. Our Salsiccia with home-made sausage was wonderful and surprisingly spicy while the home-made lemonade and orange cake dessert made for one of the best experiences of recent times. And all for less than 10 Euros.QN-1, ul. 3 Maja 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 534 58 83 88, www.pizzaserio.com. Open 12:00 24:00. (12-56zł). T6UGSW 44 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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TOSCANA RESTAURANT  Tucked away  Tucked away in atinycottag cottagee close ose to to the the Southern SouthernPark,many espouse this to be the best Italian restaurant in the north, and while the local competition has increased and improved in recent years they may still have a point. The Polish/Italian chef is a master of pasta, while Anna and her staff have perfected the art of spoiling their guests. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 27, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 86 65, www.moja-toscana.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (25-75zł). TY6UGSW

Ristorante Tesoro ul. Polna 70 81-740 Sopot  tel. +48 79 33 444 97 

TRATTORIA ANTICA A subterranean venue whose menu is short, sweet and very good. The antipasto proves divine, the ragu the best in Sopot (we also hear good things about the rabbit) and the desserts delicious. Search it and its friendly owner out down a staircase half-way up Monte Cassino 60 seconds from the Crooked House.QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 43, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 765 00 98, www.trattoriaantica.pl. Open 16:00 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł).T6GSW

Traditional Italian restaurant

BRUNCH MERA SPA HOTEL BRASSERIE

run with passion by Italian owners.

 The in-house brasserie brasserie of the Mera Spa hotel primarily primarily serves guests with well-prepared dishes with a Mediterranean accent, in smart surroundings close to the beach. Brunches run on Sundays from October to May. You You can spend the whole day at Mera with the family for one price which gives you access all areas and as much as you can eat or drink once the brunch starts. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 21, www. meraspahotel.pl. Brunch served on Sundays 13:00 17:00. Brunches 125zł per person (children under 5 years free, children 5 - 12 years 62,50zł). TUGW

WAVE During the week find a design space offering duck to die for and surf-and-turf dishes you just won’t find anywhere else. Naturally the prices are five star, yet represent one of the wiser investments you’ll make. Worth noting is their Sunday Brunch (13:30 - 18:00. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 61, www. sheraton.pl/sopot.. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00; sheraton.pl/sopot Fri 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30; Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 23:00; Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 13:30 - 18:00. (45-150zł). Sunday Brunch 150zł per person (4-12 year olds pay 50%, under 4s are free). TUGW

We invite You to our second restaurant 

Tesoro Express ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11 81-704 Sopot  tel. +48 531 04 40 04 www.restauracjatesoro.pl December 2015 - April 2016 45

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Restaurants

Restaurants MAGHREBIAN

In Ristorante La Cucina you'll �nd authentic Italian cuisine, wine and dessert, all in a warm atmosphere that feels like home. One out of the BES Restaurants in Gdańsk according to the 2016 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Maghreb is a region encompassing the land of northwestern Africa around Libya, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania. These countries share a similar culture in food which combines the staple diet of couscous with influences of the Mediterranean due to the region’s historical connection with Italy and Spain. For that reason you’ll find vegetables, meat and fish common to the coastal regions also appearing.

MALIKA A sure sign that Poland’s culinary tastes have widened hugely in recent years. Promising tastes from the Mediterranean basin, the menu includes dishes from southern Europe and colonial French North Africa, running from soups, salads, couscous and hummus up to a delicious sounding choice of mains which included some ver y tasty lamb tagine which we loved. QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 69B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 00 08, www.restauracjamalika. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (26-69zł). T6GSW

Ristorante La Cucina, ul.andeta 1 lok.77 (entrance from ul. Szeroka) , tel. +48 58 573 34 44 www.lacucina.pl www.facebook.com/lacucinagdansk Open: Mon - Tu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 See our restaurants restaurants on Google Street View and Google Maps - Menu languages

JAPANESE DOM SUSHI Gdańsk’s version of Sopot’s popular Dom Sushi has come a long way. The floating sushi bar that dominates the space is impressive, but we’re happy to see the menu goes beyond spicy tuna rolls and includes an array of Japanese cuisine such as fish soup as well as mains like grilled duck breast in cherry sauce. We also enjoy the outstanding plum wine and the waterfront location also makes it a favourite. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 38, Sopot . QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 81 81, www. domsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł). TVG SW

SUSHI 77 A very decent sushi stop located just off Sopot’s main pedestrian street, though a quick visit determines that this is not the only reason for the custom this venue generates. Expect a huge range of fresh maki as well as a number of set menus to pick from. Also at ul. Długie Pobrzeże 30, Gdańsk (D-4). QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 85, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (15-60zł). V GSW

Read more reviews online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com 46 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

TOKYO SUSHI A fine-looking sushi house with a crisp design that includes weird prints, stark colours and toilet entrances covered in oyster shells. The sushi and sashimi choice is exhaustive, and the lunch sets are reasonably priced between 22 and 69 zlots. And the menu also offers a range of hot dishes and includes dishes from Thailand, Korea as well as Japan. QN-1, ul. Mściwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 669 60 80, www.tokyosushibar.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-48zł). TUVGSW

MEXICAN PUEBLO Pueblo is one of the few restaurants in the country (its sister restaurant in Gdynia being one of the others) where  Tex-Mex cuisine doesn’t get the equivalent of the fire extinguisher treatment prevalent in so many ethnic diners.  The burritos are the real deal (not a cabbage in sight), and while the house salsa is weak meals come accompanied by a selection of bottled sauces imported straight from Latin America - some of them could knock the spots off a cow. A smart pricing policy means the cocktails are some of the best value you’ll find in town. Also at ul. Abrahama 56, Gdynia (entrance from ul. Władysława IV, N-2). QB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 24 70, www. restauracjapueblo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-55zł). TGSW

PERUVIAN

LITHUANIAN

LA MAREA

FAMILIA BISTRO  The cuisine is descri bed as Wilensk a, meaning from Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania and Familia Bistro is another to look east rather than west for its inspiration. We love the pierogi which comes in different forms (Kibiny - dumplings with crispy pastry; Manty steamed dumplings and Kolduny) and our latest favourite - Czanachy - a kind of beef stew. There is a choice of soups and mains as well all hailing from the family recipe book and this is a great place for a lunchtime snack washed down with a glass of compote or the homemade Kwas Chlebowy (Kvass). QB-4, ul. Garbary 2/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 512 92 25 14, www. familiabistro.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 22:00. (18-42zł). TGSW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

A smart, modern décor and recommendations from a German friend of ours had us really looking forward to seeing what the Peruvian chefs were going to rustle up. We’ll not claim to be particularly knowledgeable about Peruvian cuisine (we live in Poland), but the staff were happy to tell us that the cuisine has been heavily influenced by settlers from Spain, Africa and Japan from among others which have combined with the traditional Inka cuisine. We were recommended to try the Ceviche, a dish using raw fish marinated with limes and chilli and that and the Parihuela (a spicy Peruvian seafood soup) were very tasty. Live Peruvian music on Thursday and Friday evenings from 19:00.QM-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 38, Sopot, tel. (+48) 518 38 00 34, www.lamarea-restauracja.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Tue. (2442zł). TUEGS facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

 Sushi    

DOM SUSHI 

 

      W W W . D O M S U S H I . P L

VILNIUS CUISINE

Tradycyjnie wyrabiane pierogi - pieczone lub na parze ... i inne ciekawe potrawy. Traditionally made dumplings - baked or steamed ... and some other interesting dishes.

ul. Garbary 2/4, 80-827 Gdańsk  tel. +48 512922514  Familia bistro - Kuchnia Wileńska December 2015 - April 2016 47

Restaurants

Restaurants MAGHREBIAN

In Ristorante La Cucina you'll �nd authentic Italian cuisine, wine and dessert, all in a warm atmosphere that feels like home. One out of the BES Restaurants in Gdańsk according to the 2016 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Maghreb is a region encompassing the land of northwestern Africa around Libya, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Mauritania. These countries share a similar culture in food which combines the staple diet of couscous with influences of the Mediterranean due to the region’s historical connection with Italy and Spain. For that reason you’ll find vegetables, meat and fish common to the coastal regions also appearing.

 Sushi  

MALIKA

 

A sure sign that Poland’s culinary tastes have widened hugely in recent years. Promising tastes from the Mediterranean basin, the menu includes dishes from southern Europe and colonial French North Africa, running from soups, salads, couscous and hummus up to a delicious sounding choice of mains which included some ver y tasty lamb tagine which we loved. QN-2, ul. Świętojańska 69B, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 00 08, www.restauracjamalika. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (26-69zł). T6GSW

Ristorante La Cucina, ul.andeta 1 lok.77 (entrance from ul. Szeroka) , tel. +48 58 573 34 44 www.lacucina.pl www.facebook.com/lacucinagdansk Open: Mon - Tu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 See our restaurants restaurants on Google Street View and Google Maps - Menu languages

JAPANESE

TOKYO SUSHI

DOM SUSHI Gdańsk’s version of Sopot’s popular Dom Sushi has come a long way. The floating sushi bar that dominates the space is impressive, but we’re happy to see the menu goes beyond spicy tuna rolls and includes an array of Japanese cuisine such as fish soup as well as mains like grilled duck breast in cherry sauce. We also enjoy the outstanding plum wine and the waterfront location also makes it a favourite. Also at ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 38, Sopot . QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 81 81, www. domsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł). TVG SW

A fine-looking sushi house with a crisp design that includes weird prints, stark colours and toilet entrances covered in oyster shells. The sushi and sashimi choice is exhaustive, and the lunch sets are reasonably priced between 22 and 69 zlots. And the menu also offers a range of hot dishes and includes dishes from Thailand, Korea as well as Japan. QN-1, ul. Mściwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 669 60 80, www.tokyosushibar.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-48zł). TUVGSW

SUSHI 77

Read more reviews online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

LITHUANIAN

Pueblo is one of the few restaurants in the country (its sister restaurant in Gdynia being one of the others) where  Tex-Mex cuisine doesn’t get the equivalent of the fire extinguisher treatment prevalent in so many ethnic diners.  The burritos are the real deal (not a cabbage in sight), and while the house salsa is weak meals come accompanied by a selection of bottled sauces imported straight from Latin America - some of them could knock the spots off a cow. A smart pricing policy means the cocktails are some of the best value you’ll find in town. Also at ul. Abrahama 56, Gdynia (entrance from ul. Władysława IV, N-2). QB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 24 70, www. restauracjapueblo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-55zł). TGSW

LA MAREA

 The cuisine is descri bed as Wilensk a, meaning from Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania and Familia Bistro is another to look east rather than west for its inspiration. We love the pierogi which comes in different forms (Kibiny - dumplings with crispy pastry; Manty steamed dumplings and Kolduny) and our latest favourite - Czanachy - a kind of beef stew. There is a choice of soups and mains as well all hailing from the family recipe book and this is a great place for a lunchtime snack washed down with a glass of compote or the homemade Kwas Chlebowy (Kvass). QB-4, ul. Garbary 2/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 512 92 25 14, www. familiabistro.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 22:00. (18-42zł). TGSW

46 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

DOM SUSHI 

PUEBLO

PERUVIAN

FAMILIA BISTRO

A very decent sushi stop located just off Sopot’s main pedestrian street, though a quick visit determines that this is not the only reason for the custom this venue generates. Expect a huge range of fresh maki as well as a number of set menus to pick from. Also at ul. Długie Pobrzeże 30, Gdańsk (D-4). QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 53 85, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (15-60zł). V GSW

MEXICAN

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

A smart, modern décor and recommendations from a German friend of ours had us really looking forward to seeing what the Peruvian chefs were going to rustle up. We’ll not claim to be particularly knowledgeable about Peruvian cuisine (we live in Poland), but the staff were happy to tell us that the cuisine has been heavily influenced by settlers from Spain, Africa and Japan from among others which have combined with the traditional Inka cuisine. We were recommended to try the Ceviche, a dish using raw fish marinated with limes and chilli and that and the Parihuela (a spicy Peruvian seafood soup) were very tasty. Live Peruvian music on Thursday and Friday evenings from 19:00.QM-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 38, Sopot, tel. (+48) 518 38 00 34, www.lamarea-restauracja.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Tue. (2442zł). TUEGS

 

      W W W . D O M S U S H I . P L

VILNIUS CUISINE

Tradycyjnie wyrabiane pierogi - pieczone lub na parze ... i inne ciekawe potrawy. Traditionally made dumplings - baked or steamed ... and some other interesting dishes.

ul. Garbary 2/4, 80-827 Gdańsk  tel. +48 512922514  Familia bistro - Kuchnia Wileńska December 2015 - April 2016 47

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Polish Food

Restaurants

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and filling and while there are now many chefs re-inventing the image of Polish cuisine you really haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below. Most can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar in town. Smacznego!

NALEŚNIKI  The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment. PIEROGI

BIGOS A hearty stew made in large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translatesto‘big mess,’‘confusion’or ‘confusion’or‘trouble’inPolish.Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city. PLACKI  These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po węgiersku or placki po cygansku – Hungarian pancakes or Gypsy pancakes). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

GOŁĄBKI  Translating  Translati ng to ‘litt ‘little le pigeon pigeons,s,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki before a battle outside Malbork against the Teutonic quinn.anya/flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0 Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. GOLONKA Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh, boiled, braised, or roasted and put before you on a plate, typically with horseradish sauce. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right of the bone and be washed down with beer. Go caveman. Photo by Zakwitnij!pl Ejdzej & Iric © Attribution-ShareAlike License

KIEŁBASA Sausages, and in Poland shops you’ll find an enormous variety, primarily made with pork but also everything from turkey to bison. A few varieties to look for include Krakowska , a Krakow speciality which uses pepper and garlic; kabanosy  which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with caraway seed and wiejska, a monster looking u-shaped sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s most notorious gangland figures of the 90s. 48 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

One out of the 10 BEST Restaurants in Poland according to the 2016 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Mercato is a member of the Slow Food Association and specialises in regional Pomeranian cuisine, using only fresh, locally-sourced ingredients ingredients..  Te dishes are based on traditional recipes, but prepared and presented in a sophisticated modern way. Wine Spectator honored Mercato Restaurant with Award of Excellence 2015 for having one of the most outstanding restaurantt wine lists in the world. restauran

Targ Rybny 1, 80 – 838 Gdańsk, tel. +48 58 77 87 442 [email protected],, mercatorestaurac [email protected] mercatorestauracja.pl ja.pl

POLISH

SMALEC Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal, or offer it as a side dish. ZAPIEKANKA Also know as Polish pizza. Take a stale baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle. Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it: various fast food cabins dotted around the city. ZUPA SOUP Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian ‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served with potatoes tossed in, with minipierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’- in which case it comes simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

BIAŁY KRÓLIK  Keeping with the Alice in Wonderland theme, the quite wonderful Quadrille palace is home to the Bialy Krolik (White Rabbit) restaurant. In keeping with the rest of the building the setting is classy but relaxed with lots of windows looking out onto the park outside. The menu is Polish but the aims are set much higher than bigos and pierogi. The aim is not only to demonstrate the wonderful possibilities of modern Polish cuisine but also to show the quality of local produce. So determined are they to do this that you will not find a single ingredient on the menu not produced in Poland - hence no orange juice on the menu. QN-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia (Quadrille Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 691 98 04 78, www.bialy-krolik.pl. Open 12:00 - 16:45, 17:30 - 22:00; Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-70zł). T UG SW

KARCZMA IRENA An inn-style restaurant where tourists and locals consume big helpings of hearty Polish food at solid wooden tables surrounded by Halberds, paintings of trolls and even a winged Hussar. Loved by many, the only improvement would be the addition of silver goblets and obliging wenches. A very recommendable local experience. QM-4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 51 69 10, www. pensjonat-irena.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (18-40zł). 6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

KARCZMA POLSKA ZAGRODA Destroyed by a huge fire in the spring of 2011 the Karczma rose from the ashes and the menu and atmosphere are  just as good as they ever were. Probably Probably the best option in Sopot for that traditional country Polish dining experience so the 15zł cab fare out to it from the centre is well worth the investment. Expect friendly and competent service (some might say that was worth the cab fare alone) which brings very good and very filling portions of pork knuckle (Golonka), pork cutlets, bigos et al for you to enjoy at your wooden bench seating with its faux animal fur covers. RecommendedQL-5, Al. Niepodległości 625, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 72 59, www.karczmazagroda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-48zł). TUGS

KOTLET  The best traditional, homemade Polis h food available in the country is available at our granny’s. As friendly as she is, unfortunately an 83-year woman is not in the mood for feeding a bunch of Norwegians looking for a bit of local culture after enjoying the joys of a Polish bar. So that’s where Kotlet comes in. Homemade, simple, wellprepared dishes in a pleasant little space off the main square makes this worth searching out as is Monika, a wonderfully friendly waitress who will make you feel right at home. Our only concern is they might have our granny tied to the cooker out back. QM-4, ul. Morska 16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 733 29 51 00. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (15-29zł). TUGS December 2015 - April 2016 49

Polish Food

Restaurants

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and filling and while there are now many chefs re-inventing the image of Polish cuisine you really haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below. Most can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar in town. Smacznego!

NALEŚNIKI  The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment. PIEROGI

BIGOS A hearty stew made in large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translatesto‘big mess,’‘confusion’or ‘confusion’or‘trouble’inPolish.Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city. PLACKI  These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po węgiersku or placki po cygansku – Hungarian pancakes or Gypsy pancakes). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

GOŁĄBKI  Translating  Translati ng to ‘litt ‘little le pigeon pigeons,s,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki before a battle outside Malbork against the Teutonic quinn.anya/flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0 Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. GOLONKA Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh, boiled, braised, or roasted and put before you on a plate, typically with horseradish sauce. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right of the bone and be washed down with beer. Go caveman. Photo by Zakwitnij!pl Ejdzej & Iric © Attribution-ShareAlike License

KIEŁBASA Sausages, and in Poland shops you’ll find an enormous variety, primarily made with pork but also everything from turkey to bison. A few varieties to look for include Krakowska , a Krakow speciality which uses pepper and garlic; kabanosy  which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with caraway seed and wiejska, a monster looking u-shaped sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.

One out of the 10 BEST Restaurants in Poland according to the 2016 Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

Mercato is a member of the Slow Food Association and specialises in regional Pomeranian cuisine, using only fresh, locally-sourced ingredients ingredients..  Te dishes are based on traditional recipes, but prepared and presented in a sophisticated modern way. Wine Spectator honored Mercato Restaurant with Award of Excellence 2015 for having one of the most outstanding restaurantt wine lists in the world. restauran

Targ Rybny 1, 80 – 838 Gdańsk, tel. +48 58 77 87 442 [email protected],, mercatorestaurac [email protected] mercatorestauracja.pl ja.pl

POLISH

SMALEC Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal, or offer it as a side dish. ZAPIEKANKA Also know as Polish pizza. Take a stale baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle. Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it: various fast food cabins dotted around the city. ZUPA SOUP Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup similar to Russian ‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served with potatoes tossed in, with minipierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’- in which case it comes simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.

48 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

BIAŁY KRÓLIK  Keeping with the Alice in Wonderland theme, the quite wonderful Quadrille palace is home to the Bialy Krolik (White Rabbit) restaurant. In keeping with the rest of the building the setting is classy but relaxed with lots of windows looking out onto the park outside. The menu is Polish but the aims are set much higher than bigos and pierogi. The aim is not only to demonstrate the wonderful possibilities of modern Polish cuisine but also to show the quality of local produce. So determined are they to do this that you will not find a single ingredient on the menu not produced in Poland - hence no orange juice on the menu. QN-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia (Quadrille Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 691 98 04 78, www.bialy-krolik.pl. Open 12:00 - 16:45, 17:30 - 22:00; Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-70zł). T UG SW

KARCZMA IRENA An inn-style restaurant where tourists and locals consume big helpings of hearty Polish food at solid wooden tables surrounded by Halberds, paintings of trolls and even a winged Hussar. Loved by many, the only improvement would be the addition of silver goblets and obliging wenches. A very recommendable local experience. QM-4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 51 69 10, www. pensjonat-irena.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (18-40zł). 6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants MOCNO NADZIANE

PIEROGARNIA PIEROŻEK 

It’s not exactly correct but we’ll translate the name of this place as ‘Well stuffed’. The name refers to the handmade pierogis at the heart of this peculiar pierogi/cocktail bar combo that’s got us heading off the main street more regularly of late. We like the original fillings such as Kashubian cod and pork and beef with bacon and onion as well as the original lemonade flavours. As the night moves in the bar takes on a more prominent role with the pierogis a great bar snack. Very good and worth a visit. QM-4, ul. Haffnera 7/9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 15 15. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (6-22zł). 6GSW

 The portside block in which its located might not be the most attractive but do not let that put you off. The interior is beautifully decorated and is warm and inviting but that’s not the reason we recommend you head here. If you want to try local cuisine there is nothing more Polish than pierogi (meat, vegetable or fruit filled dough pockets which come either boiled or baked) and this has to be one of the best pierogarnia we’ve come across anywhere. The Mexican themed pierogi with minced beef, beans and corn were excellent but friends also rave about the Ruskie (cheese), mozzarella version and the fruit options on offer. Recommended. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 11A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 95 67. Open 11:00 20:00. (11-18zł). T6GSW

NOVA PIEROGOVA

PANORAMA

One may wonder why Sopot’s main street, Bohaterów Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino), carries the name of an Italian town. The truth is that it commemorates one of the proudest achievements in modern Polish military history. In 1943 the Allies, after a successful invasion of Sicily, moved to the continent. It seemed nothing could stop them until they approached a mountain range on the way to Rome. The area was occupied by the Germans defending what was called the Gustav Line, at the heart of which lay Monte Cassino. The battle that followed was actually a series of four intense battles which took place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino. Involving British, US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops, fierce fighting raged against the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the monastery. At a cost of over 25,000 lives the final battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally fought their way through to the completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino was won, the Gustav Line broken and the Allied advance on Rome continued. Today it is one of Poland’s most famous streets, frequently clogged in high season, and fondly known as Monciak to the locals. 50 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Destroyed by a huge fire in the spring of 2011 the Karczma rose from the ashes and the menu and atmosphere are  just as good as they ever were. Probably Probably the best option in Sopot for that traditional country Polish dining experience so the 15zł cab fare out to it from the centre is well worth the investment. Expect friendly and competent service (some might say that was worth the cab fare alone) which brings very good and very filling portions of pork knuckle (Golonka), pork cutlets, bigos et al for you to enjoy at your wooden bench seating with its faux animal fur covers. RecommendedQL-5, Al. Niepodległości 625, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 72 59, www.karczmazagroda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-48zł). TUGS

KOTLET  The best traditional, homemade Polis h food available in the country is available at our granny’s. As friendly as she is, unfortunately an 83-year woman is not in the mood for feeding a bunch of Norwegians looking for a bit of local culture after enjoying the joys of a Polish bar. So that’s where Kotlet comes in. Homemade, simple, wellprepared dishes in a pleasant little space off the main square makes this worth searching out as is Monika, a wonderfully friendly waitress who will make you feel right at home. Our only concern is they might have our granny tied to the cooker out back. QM-4, ul. Morska 16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 733 29 51 00. Open 11:00 - 20:00. (15-29zł). TUGS December 2015 - April 2016 49

Restaurants

 This place has impressed quickly with its range of traditional Polish pierogi (filled dough pockets) with a creative list of fillings which sees the cuisine of India and Mexico collide headlong with that of Poland. The menu claims the Russian pierogi (cheese filled) are the most popular in Poland although we’d argue with that (surely it’s cabbage and mushroom) and recommend you try the Mexican which were excellent. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 516 41 42 00. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (15-27zł). 6GS

‘MONCIAK’

KARCZMA POLSKA ZAGRODA

While not exactly the height of dining in the conventional sense, it is the (maximum) height to dine at in the city. Negotiate the offi ce building sec urity and climb to 16 th floor of th at green offi ce block nea r the railway s tation where you’ll find a pretty decent set of Polish staples such as zurek, pork chop and pierogi. Worth a visit for a sightseeing tour and grub in one place. Pop yourself in the right-hand room overlooking the shipyard, order up a couple of vodkas and salute what’s left of the birthplace of Solidarity before it’s redeveloped. QB-1, ul. Wały Piastowskie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 42 51, www.panoramarestauracja.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 22:00. (23-59zł). TGSW

PIEROGARNIA MANDU If this wasn’t stuck out in the Oliwa district, this would most definitely be on a must-do list, we like it that much.  The staple dish is pierogi, the traditional Polish dish often simply described as dumplings and Mandu do them as well as we’ve ever experienced. Watch as the three ladies sit calmly folding the dough and filling it with a whole range of different fillings before sending them off to be boiled or baked. We could list our favourites but that would take up too much space so we’ll just visit and you will find a combination that you like. Great place. Great food. Great staff. Can you tell we like it yet? QF-2, ul. Kaprów 19d, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 55 44, www.pierogarniamandu.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (13-22zł). T6USW

youtube.com/inyourpocket gdansk.inyourpocket.com

PIEROGARNIA U DZIKA  To the uninit uninitiated iateda dzik dzik is local local lingo ngo for for boar. boar. And not not only only has has the owner included the noble dzik in the name, he’s included these little guys in the design. Where do boars go when they die, to this place of course, where the proprietor has them skinned, stuffed and nailed to every surface available. Stranger still, the absence of anything resembling boar on the menu - work that one out. This place has dedicated itself to pierogi, and the ones here are quite simply the best in the biz. If you don’t mind dead animals staring reproachfully at you, then knock yourself out on delicious pierogi stuffed with a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. QC-4, ul. Piwna 59/60, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 26 76, www.pierogarniaudzika. com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (15-77zł). T6GSW

ul. Haffnera 7/9, Sopot tel. +48 58 355 15 15  / mocnonadziane

PIWIARNIA WARKA A good option as both a place to eat and to drink in Gdynia. Warka is one of Poland’s big beer brands and this is a bar and restaurant set up to help you enjoy as much of the product as possible. But there is so much more than the beer. A well-prepared range of Polish mainstream dishes like pork steak in garlic, pastas, burgers, ribs and Tex-Mex selections help to soak up the grog while you focus on the match on one of the 13 screens available. Well worth the visit if you want a relaxed place with reasonable prices to watch the sport over a pint or two. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 64 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 380 05 01, www.piwiarniagdynia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (18-69zł). UGW

Piwiarnia Warka in Gdynia is a unique place with something for everyone.                       dishes, especially Angus beef steaks and burgers. Live sports events on 13 LCD screens The kitchen is open daily from 11:00 to 23:00.

TUPOT MEW A bit cafe, a bit restaurant, a bit bar. A bright and comfortable spot on one of Sopot’s more attractive streets lined with prewar villas, the convivial surroundings and the friendly staff  make it the kind of place you want to like before they’ve even put anything in front of you. The menu is concise offering a changing choice of salads, soups and a few mains all Polish but with a modern twist and there are also vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. It’s relative seclusion means it attracts a more local crowd and there’s a lot to like including the local beers, some good sounds in the background and some very reasonable prices.QL-4, ul. Władysława Jagiełły 6/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 719 15 05. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (15-36zł). T6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Piwiarnia Warka Gdynia                

December 2015 - April 2016 51

Restaurants

Restaurants MOCNO NADZIANE

PIEROGARNIA PIEROŻEK 

It’s not exactly correct but we’ll translate the name of this place as ‘Well stuffed’. The name refers to the handmade pierogis at the heart of this peculiar pierogi/cocktail bar combo that’s got us heading off the main street more regularly of late. We like the original fillings such as Kashubian cod and pork and beef with bacon and onion as well as the original lemonade flavours. As the night moves in the bar takes on a more prominent role with the pierogis a great bar snack. Very good and worth a visit. QM-4, ul. Haffnera 7/9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 15 15. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (6-22zł). 6GSW

 The portside block in which its located might not be the most attractive but do not let that put you off. The interior is beautifully decorated and is warm and inviting but that’s not the reason we recommend you head here. If you want to try local cuisine there is nothing more Polish than pierogi (meat, vegetable or fruit filled dough pockets which come either boiled or baked) and this has to be one of the best pierogarnia we’ve come across anywhere. The Mexican themed pierogi with minced beef, beans and corn were excellent but friends also rave about the Ruskie (cheese), mozzarella version and the fruit options on offer. Recommended. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 11A, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 95 67. Open 11:00 20:00. (11-18zł). T6GSW

NOVA PIEROGOVA  This place has impressed quickly with its range of traditional Polish pierogi (filled dough pockets) with a creative list of fillings which sees the cuisine of India and Mexico collide headlong with that of Poland. The menu claims the Russian pierogi (cheese filled) are the most popular in Poland although we’d argue with that (surely it’s cabbage and mushroom) and recommend you try the Mexican which were excellent. QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 516 41 42 00. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (15-27zł). 6GS

PANORAMA

‘MONCIAK’ One may wonder why Sopot’s main street, Bohaterów Monte Cassino (The Heroes of Monte Cassino), carries the name of an Italian town. The truth is that it commemorates one of the proudest achievements in modern Polish military history. In 1943 the Allies, after a successful invasion of Sicily, moved to the continent. It seemed nothing could stop them until they approached a mountain range on the way to Rome. The area was occupied by the Germans defending what was called the Gustav Line, at the heart of which lay Monte Cassino. The battle that followed was actually a series of four intense battles which took place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino. Involving British, US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops, fierce fighting raged against the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the monastery. At a cost of over 25,000 lives the final battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally fought their way through to the completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino was won, the Gustav Line broken and the Allied advance on Rome continued. Today it is one of Poland’s most famous streets, frequently clogged in high season, and fondly known as Monciak to the locals.

While not exactly the height of dining in the conventional sense, it is the (maximum) height to dine at in the city. Negotiate the offi ce building sec urity and climb to 16 th floor of th at green offi ce block nea r the railway s tation where you’ll find a pretty decent set of Polish staples such as zurek, pork chop and pierogi. Worth a visit for a sightseeing tour and grub in one place. Pop yourself in the right-hand room overlooking the shipyard, order up a couple of vodkas and salute what’s left of the birthplace of Solidarity before it’s redeveloped. QB-1, ul. Wały Piastowskie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 42 51, www.panoramarestauracja.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 22:00. (23-59zł). TGSW

PIEROGARNIA MANDU If this wasn’t stuck out in the Oliwa district, this would most definitely be on a must-do list, we like it that much.  The staple dish is pierogi, the traditional Polish dish often simply described as dumplings and Mandu do them as well as we’ve ever experienced. Watch as the three ladies sit calmly folding the dough and filling it with a whole range of different fillings before sending them off to be boiled or baked. We could list our favourites but that would take up too much space so we’ll just visit and you will find a combination that you like. Great place. Great food. Great staff. Can you tell we like it yet? QF-2, ul. Kaprów 19d, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 55 44, www.pierogarniamandu.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (13-22zł). T6USW

youtube.com/inyourpocket

50 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

PIEROGARNIA U DZIKA  To the uninit uninitiated iateda dzik dzik is local local lingo ngo for for boar. boar. And not not only only has has the owner included the noble dzik in the name, he’s included these little guys in the design. Where do boars go when they die, to this place of course, where the proprietor has them skinned, stuffed and nailed to every surface available. Stranger still, the absence of anything resembling boar on the menu - work that one out. This place has dedicated itself to pierogi, and the ones here are quite simply the best in the biz. If you don’t mind dead animals staring reproachfully at you, then knock yourself out on delicious pierogi stuffed with a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. QC-4, ul. Piwna 59/60, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 26 76, www.pierogarniaudzika. com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (15-77zł). T6GSW

ul. Haffnera 7/9, Sopot tel. +48 58 355 15 15  / mocnonadziane

PIWIARNIA WARKA A good option as both a place to eat and to drink in Gdynia. Warka is one of Poland’s big beer brands and this is a bar and restaurant set up to help you enjoy as much of the product as possible. But there is so much more than the beer. A well-prepared range of Polish mainstream dishes like pork steak in garlic, pastas, burgers, ribs and Tex-Mex selections help to soak up the grog while you focus on the match on one of the 13 screens available. Well worth the visit if you want a relaxed place with reasonable prices to watch the sport over a pint or two. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 64 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 380 05 01, www.piwiarniagdynia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (18-69zł). UGW

Piwiarnia Warka in Gdynia is a unique place with something for everyone.                       dishes, especially Angus beef steaks and burgers. Live sports events on 13 LCD screens The kitchen is open daily from 11:00 to 23:00.

TUPOT MEW A bit cafe, a bit restaurant, a bit bar. A bright and comfortable spot on one of Sopot’s more attractive streets lined with prewar villas, the convivial surroundings and the friendly staff  make it the kind of place you want to like before they’ve even put anything in front of you. The menu is concise offering a changing choice of salads, soups and a few mains all Polish but with a modern twist and there are also vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. It’s relative seclusion means it attracts a more local crowd and there’s a lot to like including the local beers, some good sounds in the background and some very reasonable prices.QL-4, ul. Władysława Jagiełły 6/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 719 15 05. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (15-36zł). T6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Restaurants

Piwiarnia Warka Gdynia                

December 2015 - April 2016 51

Restaurants GOLDWASSER

                                                                                                

VILLA UPHAGENA

KUBICKI

A very classy venue set out in the Wrzeszcz district in a listed villa built in 1908 by Gdansk businessman Rudolf Patschke and originally known by the name of its owner. Following the war the building was home to the British consulate in the city. The cuisine is European and Polish with dishes influenced by ingredients and traditions from the local region. The menu is concise and features beautifully presented local dishes, such as Kashubian herring, Polish sour soup and roast duck in a cranberry sauce. The venue itself is worth the visit – keep an eye out for some beautiful original features such as the Maiolica tin-glazed pottery and the marble fireplace. QG-3, ul. Uphagena 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 345 83 72, www.villauphagena.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (49-75zł). TEGSW

 The oldest remaining restaurant restaurant in town dates back to 1918 when it traded as the Cafe International run by Bronislaw Kubicki and his family. If you’d visited up until a couple of years ago you’d have felt you were sitting in exactly the same place such was the age and style of the decorations. But that was then and this old-timer underwent a breathtaking remodelling which saw it combine period pieces like the fireplaces with a modern aesthetic look in which to enjoy Danzig/Gdansk dishes like herring with pickled cucumbers and capers and a Gdansk pork chop with cabbage and potatoes..QD-3, ul. Wartka 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 00 50, www.restauracjakubicki.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (39-86zł). EGSW

REGIONAL

Gdańsk’s most famous restaurant? Quite possibly. It’s here that Goldwasser vodka was first distilled back in 1598 when it went under the name Der Lachs (the Salmon) a reference to how addresses were often identified by the figure above the door. Today being run by the third generation of the same family who took it over after the war, this is signature Gdansk dining with a recommended dish being the traditional roast duck with apple followed by a glass of Goldwasser. The original Goldwasser recipe went west after the war and this is the one place in the city where you can taste the original ‘Der Lachs’ Goldwasser distilled these days in Germany. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.podlososiem. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (60-110zł). GSW

GDAŃSKA One of the city’s longest standing restaurants has the feel of a museum with all the armour, statuettes, model ships and portraits of famous Gdanskians/Danzigers. This is one of former President Lech Walesa’s favourite haunts and you can try his favourite dishes by ordering his set menu which includes a shot of strong, peppery Wałęsówka vodka. QB-4, ul. Św. Ducha 16/24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 76 71, www.gdanska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-102zł). TYUEGS 52 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

POD ŁOSOSIEM

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

No visit to Gdańsk is complete without sampling the local fire water, Goldwasser vodka. Created by Ambrose Vermollen, a Dutch migrant living in Gdańsk, the first recorded mention of it dates to 1598, though it would be years later that Vermollen would open the first recorded distillery, Der Lachs (The Salmon) on ul . Szeroka. His recipe combined over 20 herbs and roots, including cardamom, coriander, juniper, cinnamon, wild orange, lavender, cloves and thyme. A clever marketing trick that was all about appearance and nothing to do with taste, 23 carat gold leaves were added for luck, and the recipe has since been passed down the generations, its current owner being the German Carl Graf von Hardenberg.

 o y   j o y  e  n   u  e   y o u   u  s c  a  n  y o  i  t  h  u   w i   O n l l y   w  e  r  d w   a  s s s s e   i  n  a l l  G G  o ol l d   r  i  g i   o o r 

Of course, local legend is far more interesting, and if you believe urban myth the gold flakes appeared after Neptune grew increasingly irritated that the natives were clogging up his fountain by repeatedly throwing coins into it. Driven to despair the irked God launched his trident into the fountain, shattering the coins into millions of pieces. This, according to some, is why you’ll find gold pieces floating around in your bottle of Goldwasser.. Story number two paints a different picture. Goldwasser Apparently Neptune was delighted by the natives’habit of throwing coins into his fountain, and decided to reward their generosity by turning the water into a tasty alcoholic beverage. Good man. Free-loading landlords carted the booze off by the barrel, all apart from the do-gooding owner of Pod Łososiem (The Polish for Der Lachs). In return for his honesty, Neptune transformed his stock of ordinary vodka into Goldwasser. Packing an alcohol content of 40%, Goldwasser’s rich, syrupy taste saw it gain popularity with Louis XIV and Imperial Russia’s Catherine the Great among its fans. Lovers of this story and the drink will be delighted to know that the Salmon (Der Lachs) is still around and now trades as the exclusive Pod Łososiem restaurant where you can get the original von Hardenberg Goldwasser imported from Germany. Also keep your eye out for the German owned Goldwasser restaurant on the waterfront which has specially produced gift sets available to buy. On a final note it is also said that the gold content of Goldwasser is useful in the treatment of back and joint conditions although it is unlikely that this was one of its goals 400 years ago. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Our restaurant is open every day from 12:00 until last guest 80-835 Gdańsk, ul. Szeroka 52/54 tel. (+48 58) 301 76 52, fax (+48 58) 301 56 48 www.podlososiem.com.pl [email protected] December 2015 - April 2016 53

Restaurants

Restaurants GOLDWASSER

                                                                                                

VILLA UPHAGENA

KUBICKI

A very classy venue set out in the Wrzeszcz district in a listed villa built in 1908 by Gdansk businessman Rudolf Patschke and originally known by the name of its owner. Following the war the building was home to the British consulate in the city. The cuisine is European and Polish with dishes influenced by ingredients and traditions from the local region. The menu is concise and features beautifully presented local dishes, such as Kashubian herring, Polish sour soup and roast duck in a cranberry sauce. The venue itself is worth the visit – keep an eye out for some beautiful original features such as the Maiolica tin-glazed pottery and the marble fireplace. QG-3, ul. Uphagena 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 345 83 72, www.villauphagena.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (49-75zł). TEGSW

 The oldest remaining restaurant restaurant in town dates back to 1918 when it traded as the Cafe International run by Bronislaw Kubicki and his family. If you’d visited up until a couple of years ago you’d have felt you were sitting in exactly the same place such was the age and style of the decorations. But that was then and this old-timer underwent a breathtaking remodelling which saw it combine period pieces like the fireplaces with a modern aesthetic look in which to enjoy Danzig/Gdansk dishes like herring with pickled cucumbers and capers and a Gdansk pork chop with cabbage and potatoes..QD-3, ul. Wartka 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 00 50, www.restauracjakubicki.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (39-86zł). EGSW

REGIONAL

Gdańsk’s most famous restaurant? Quite possibly. It’s here that Goldwasser vodka was first distilled back in 1598 when it went under the name Der Lachs (the Salmon) a reference to how addresses were often identified by the figure above the door. Today being run by the third generation of the same family who took it over after the war, this is signature Gdansk dining with a recommended dish being the traditional roast duck with apple followed by a glass of Goldwasser. The original Goldwasser recipe went west after the war and this is the one place in the city where you can taste the original ‘Der Lachs’ Goldwasser distilled these days in Germany. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.podlososiem. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (60-110zł). GSW

GDAŃSKA One of the city’s longest standing restaurants has the feel of a museum with all the armour, statuettes, model ships and portraits of famous Gdanskians/Danzigers. This is one of former President Lech Walesa’s favourite haunts and you can try his favourite dishes by ordering his set menu which includes a shot of strong, peppery Wałęsówka vodka. QB-4, ul. Św. Ducha 16/24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 76 71, www.gdanska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-102zł). TYUEGS

POD ŁOSOSIEM

52 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

No visit to Gdańsk is complete without sampling the local fire water, Goldwasser vodka. Created by Ambrose Vermollen, a Dutch migrant living in Gdańsk, the first recorded mention of it dates to 1598, though it would be years later that Vermollen would open the first recorded distillery, Der Lachs (The Salmon) on ul . Szeroka. His recipe combined over 20 herbs and roots, including cardamom, coriander, juniper, cinnamon, wild orange, lavender, cloves and thyme. A clever marketing trick that was all about appearance and nothing to do with taste, 23 carat gold leaves were added for luck, and the recipe has since been passed down the generations, its current owner being the German Carl Graf von Hardenberg.

 o y   j o y  e  n   u  e   y o u   u  s c  a  n  y o  i  t  h  u   w i   O n l l y   w  e  r  d w   a  s s s s e   i  n  a l l  G G  o ol l d   r  i  g i   o o r 

Of course, local legend is far more interesting, and if you believe urban myth the gold flakes appeared after Neptune grew increasingly irritated that the natives were clogging up his fountain by repeatedly throwing coins into it. Driven to despair the irked God launched his trident into the fountain, shattering the coins into millions of pieces. This, according to some, is why you’ll find gold pieces floating around in your bottle of Goldwasser.. Story number two paints a different picture. Goldwasser Apparently Neptune was delighted by the natives’habit of throwing coins into his fountain, and decided to reward their generosity by turning the water into a tasty alcoholic beverage. Good man. Free-loading landlords carted the booze off by the barrel, all apart from the do-gooding owner of Pod Łososiem (The Polish for Der Lachs). In return for his honesty, Neptune transformed his stock of ordinary vodka into Goldwasser. Packing an alcohol content of 40%, Goldwasser’s rich, syrupy taste saw it gain popularity with Louis XIV and Imperial Russia’s Catherine the Great among its fans. Lovers of this story and the drink will be delighted to know that the Salmon (Der Lachs) is still around and now trades as the exclusive Pod Łososiem restaurant where you can get the original von Hardenberg Goldwasser imported from Germany. Also keep your eye out for the German owned Goldwasser restaurant on the waterfront which has specially produced gift sets available to buy. On a final note it is also said that the gold content of Goldwasser is useful in the treatment of back and joint conditions although it is unlikely that this was one of its goals 400 years ago.

Our restaurant is open every day from 12:00 until last guest 80-835 Gdańsk, ul. Szeroka 52/54 tel. (+48 58) 301 76 52, fax (+48 58) 301 56 48 www.podlososiem.com.pl [email protected] December 2015 - April 2016 53

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Restaurants

BAR POD RYBĄ A ����� ����� �����  ��� ���� ��� ���� �� ��� ��������� ����� ������ ��� ��� ��������� ����� �� T��-����…

Restaurants BAR POD RYBĄ

MCDONALD’S

More places now offer filled potatoes but ‘Under the Fish’ continues to serve the best in town in our opinion. For less than 7 Euros diners get a huge roasted potato split open and topped with one of seven sauces and then heaped with anything from salmon to sausage to beans or veggies; you will not walk away hungry. We love the gouda and bacon, the Hungarian sausage, the Mexican beef - hell we’d happily eat them all. The venue itself is cosy enough, has a warm brass bar, plenty of Danzig-era signs and paintings on the wall.QB-4, ul. Piwna 61/63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 13 07. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (10-30zł). T6UVGSW

Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 21, Sopot (M-3); Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia (N-6); ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3) and Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia (N-1, Gdynia Główna Train Station). QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 694 49 59 10, www.mcdonalds.pl. Open 04:30 - 01:00. (15-17zł). TUGSW

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA FOOD COURT Find KFC, McDs, Burger King, North Fish, Dominium Pizza, a vegetarian bar, a good Asian option in the food court as well as a Pizza Hut restaurant downstairs. QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www. galeriabaltycka.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. UGSW

KFC Gdańsk, ul. Piwna 61/63 (near the Arsenal) tel. + 48 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba. www.barp odryba.pl pl

QUICK EA E ATS AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL Find a selection of grilled dishes, bagels, salads, sweet and savoury pierogis and a mind-boggling choice of over 180 Polish and foreign bottled and draft beers just off the main street - Długa. QB-4, ul. Garbary 6/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 29 39. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (10-20zł). UGSW

ANKER Hugely popular the locals flock here for 16 types of pizza at bargain prices, not to mention breakfast, soups, salads, goulash and steaks QN-2, Al. Piłsudskiego 50, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 30 77, www.anker.com.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). TVNGSW

Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4); Al. Niepodległości 635/637, Sopot (L-6); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3). QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2c, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 71 386 15 20, www.kfc.pl. Open 07:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. (5-23zł). TUGSW

KWADRANS Great toasties and huge cups of tea as well as the usual scrambled eggs and omelettes. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 20, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 15 92, www.bistrokwadrans. com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (10-22zł). TUVGSW

LENIWA BABA  The ‘lazy woman’ woman’ is a cante canteen en style concept based on the traditional milk bar and if you’re after a quick filling snack of typical Polish food such as pierogi, pork cutlets or klopsiki (meatballs) in sauce this fits the bill perfectly. We defy you to find edible food cheaper than this anywhere incidentally. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 52, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 46 90 80. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (10-20zł). TUSW

TAKO

New!!!  W e deliver  a  za  z z pi z

A great little bar on the main street serving tacos, quesadillas and burritos with a variety of fillings. Choose from the selection of sauces described on the blackboard alongside a drawing of a thermometer - the hot one is really hot. A great spot for a lunch or snack.QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 575 13 12 12, www.takogdynia.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (9-28zł). T6GSW

TESORO EXPRESS An excellent Italian owned pizza parlour, where your pizza is accompanied by imported Italian soft drinks, wines, and more often than not a little song from one of the Italian chefs. QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 531 04 40 04, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-38zł).VGSW

VIVA LA PIZZA  The best pizza in town is the typical opinion of our friends in Gdynia and we’d be hard pushed to argue. Their secret is their wood-fired oven and this tiny space is constantly packed out by hungry customers who get to choose from 20 types of pizza as well as a small selection of panini, salads and antipasti. Of particular note is their small Marinara pizza, which is perfect for a snack on the run. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 49, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 66 33. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-24zł).T6GSW

CUDA WIANKI  The Pancake Shop (for that is literally the meaning of Naleśnikarnia) is a bright, modern space located between the two tunnels at the top of Monte Cassino. Choose from a menu of sweet and savoury fillings as well as some of the tastiest salads we’ve had the pleasure to try in the city. We have to admit to being fans of the Mexican pancake as well as the salads while we know children who are unable to pass without begging for a mixed fruit pancake with whipped cream. Delicious. QN-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 12 12. Open 10:00 21:00. (10-17zł). UGSW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 11 81-704 Sopot, tel. +48 531 04 40 04 www.restauracjatesoro.pl

SUBWAY Also at ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk (Madison Shopping Centre, B-2); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4); ul. 10 Lutego 11, Gdynia (Batory, N-1) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3). QB-4, ul. Długa 56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 46 22, www.subway.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (10-20zł).UGSW

PANCAKES

54 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Tesoro Express

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Traditional Italian pizzeria run with passion by Italian owners.

FANABERIA CREPES & CAFE A summery looking creperie with a breezy, blue design and windows that fall open to allow maximum sun. The fruit cocktails are great, even better when the asphalt is melting, though the real point of this place are the pancakes, fast being hailed as the best in the city. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 33/35, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 785 78 17 81, www.nalesnikarnia-fanaberia.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). T6GSW

NALEŚNIKOWO If our mother had let us open up a café at the age of eight, it would have looked exactly like Naleśnikowo. It would probably have the same crepe-centric menu, too, though Naleśnikowo takes it a step further by offering options we couldn’t conceive of. Sure there’s countless pillowy sweet crepes (Oreo biscuit, banana and Nutella! Swoon!) and savoury choices like chorizo, bacon and pickles but why not go for the exotic noodle-laden spaghetti crepe or the pancake lasagne which also comes with a vegetarian option? The service is quick and attentive and the menu is in English, German and Russian. Drag yourself away from busy Długa and you’ll be in for a treat. We’re pretty sure your inner eight-yearold will thank you as will any real ones with you when they see the children’s menu. QB-5, ul. Ogarna 125, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 30 82, www.nalesnikowo. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (11-19zł). You can pay in $, €, or £. T6UVGBSW December 2015 - April 2016 55

Restaurants

BAR POD RYBĄ A ����� ����� �����  ��� ���� ��� ���� �� ��� ��������� ����� ������ ��� ��� ��������� ����� �� T��-����…

Restaurants BAR POD RYBĄ

MCDONALD’S

More places now offer filled potatoes but ‘Under the Fish’ continues to serve the best in town in our opinion. For less than 7 Euros diners get a huge roasted potato split open and topped with one of seven sauces and then heaped with anything from salmon to sausage to beans or veggies; you will not walk away hungry. We love the gouda and bacon, the Hungarian sausage, the Mexican beef - hell we’d happily eat them all. The venue itself is cosy enough, has a warm brass bar, plenty of Danzig-era signs and paintings on the wall.QB-4, ul. Piwna 61/63, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 13 07. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (10-30zł). T6UVGSW

Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 21, Sopot (M-3); Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia (N-6); ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3) and Pl. Konstytucji 1, Gdynia (N-1, Gdynia Główna Train Station). QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 694 49 59 10, www.mcdonalds.pl. Open 04:30 - 01:00. (15-17zł). TUGSW

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA FOOD COURT Find KFC, McDs, Burger King, North Fish, Dominium Pizza, a vegetarian bar, a good Asian option in the food court as well as a Pizza Hut restaurant downstairs. QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 50, www. galeriabaltycka.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. UGSW

KFC Gdańsk, ul. Piwna 61/63 (near the Arsenal) tel. + 48 58 305 13 07, www.barpodryba. www.barp odryba.pl pl

QUICK EA E ATS AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL Find a selection of grilled dishes, bagels, salads, sweet and savoury pierogis and a mind-boggling choice of over 180 Polish and foreign bottled and draft beers just off the main street - Długa. QB-4, ul. Garbary 6/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 29 39. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (10-20zł). UGSW

Also at Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4); Al. Niepodległości 635/637, Sopot (L-6); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3). QA-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2c, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 71 386 15 20, www.kfc.pl. Open 07:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. (5-23zł). TUGSW

KWADRANS Great toasties and huge cups of tea as well as the usual scrambled eggs and omelettes. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 20, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 15 92, www.bistrokwadrans. com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (10-22zł). TUVGSW

LENIWA BABA

ANKER Hugely popular the locals flock here for 16 types of pizza at bargain prices, not to mention breakfast, soups, salads, goulash and steaks QN-2, Al. Piłsudskiego 50, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 30 77, www.anker.com.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). TVNGSW

 The ‘lazy woman’ woman’ is a cante canteen en style concept based on the traditional milk bar and if you’re after a quick filling snack of typical Polish food such as pierogi, pork cutlets or klopsiki (meatballs) in sauce this fits the bill perfectly. We defy you to find edible food cheaper than this anywhere incidentally. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 52, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 46 90 80. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (10-20zł). TUSW

TAKO

New!!!  W e deliver  a  za  z z pi z

A great little bar on the main street serving tacos, quesadillas and burritos with a variety of fillings. Choose from the selection of sauces described on the blackboard alongside a drawing of a thermometer - the hot one is really hot. A great spot for a lunch or snack.QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 575 13 12 12, www.takogdynia.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (9-28zł). T6GSW

TESORO EXPRESS An excellent Italian owned pizza parlour, where your pizza is accompanied by imported Italian soft drinks, wines, and more often than not a little song from one of the Italian chefs. QL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 11, Sopot, tel. (+48) 531 04 40 04, www.restauracjatesoro.pl. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-38zł).VGSW

VIVA LA PIZZA  The best pizza in town is the typical opinion of our friends in Gdynia and we’d be hard pushed to argue. Their secret is their wood-fired oven and this tiny space is constantly packed out by hungry customers who get to choose from 20 types of pizza as well as a small selection of panini, salads and antipasti. Of particular note is their small Marinara pizza, which is perfect for a snack on the run. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 49, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 352 66 33. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-24zł).T6GSW

CUDA WIANKI  The Pancake Shop (for that is literally the meaning of Naleśnikarnia) is a bright, modern space located between the two tunnels at the top of Monte Cassino. Choose from a menu of sweet and savoury fillings as well as some of the tastiest salads we’ve had the pleasure to try in the city. We have to admit to being fans of the Mexican pancake as well as the salads while we know children who are unable to pass without begging for a mixed fruit pancake with whipped cream. Delicious. QN-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 9, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 12 12. Open 10:00 21:00. (10-17zł). UGSW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 11 81-704 Sopot, tel. +48 531 04 40 04 www.restauracjatesoro.pl

SUBWAY Also at ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk (Madison Shopping Centre, B-2); ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 39, Sopot (M-4); ul. 10 Lutego 11, Gdynia (Batory, N-1) and ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia (Centrum Riviera, N-2/3). QB-4, ul. Długa 56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 46 22, www.subway.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. (10-20zł).UGSW

PANCAKES

54 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Tesoro Express

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Restaurants

Traditional Italian pizzeria run with passion by Italian owners.

FANABERIA CREPES & CAFE A summery looking creperie with a breezy, blue design and windows that fall open to allow maximum sun. The fruit cocktails are great, even better when the asphalt is melting, though the real point of this place are the pancakes, fast being hailed as the best in the city. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 33/35, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 785 78 17 81, www.nalesnikarnia-fanaberia.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). T6GSW

NALEŚNIKOWO If our mother had let us open up a café at the age of eight, it would have looked exactly like Naleśnikowo. It would probably have the same crepe-centric menu, too, though Naleśnikowo takes it a step further by offering options we couldn’t conceive of. Sure there’s countless pillowy sweet crepes (Oreo biscuit, banana and Nutella! Swoon!) and savoury choices like chorizo, bacon and pickles but why not go for the exotic noodle-laden spaghetti crepe or the pancake lasagne which also comes with a vegetarian option? The service is quick and attentive and the menu is in English, German and Russian. Drag yourself away from busy Długa and you’ll be in for a treat. We’re pretty sure your inner eight-yearold will thank you as will any real ones with you when they see the children’s menu. QB-5, ul. Ogarna 125, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 30 82, www.nalesnikowo. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. (11-19zł). You can pay in $, €, or £. T6UVGBSW December 2015 - April 2016 55

Restaurants STEAK CRUDO An extremely smart space with steak as the cornerstone of the menu. Found a little way up Monciak towards the church, Crudo’s single-sided menu comes presented on a wooden board offering five types of steak including a salmon option. We could talk about the chowder or the beefburger option but that would be to miss the attraction of the place which is the steak. Cooked as requested (not a given in many places), the 300g of beef was very good, served with caramelised onions and hand-cut fries and washed down with a glass of red wine which complemented the food perfectly. Recommended both as a place to take the important business client or simply as a place to get back to carnivorous basics. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 82 45 00, www. crudogrill.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-90zł). UGSW

                 

NORDIC KITCHEN

J. WASZYNGTONA 19; GDYNIA +48 58 743 07 15; www.gard-nordickitchen.com

LA PAMPA STEAKHOUSE                                      

RUSSIAN KUCHNIA ROSYJSKA Pad out your stomach lining with a visit to Kuchnia Rosyjska, a cheap, cheerful venture presenting strange mashed dishes that defy efforts at identification. Still, the pielmieni are good, and the service rarely goes wrong. All this in an interior that looks like a really naff gift store - lots of dolls and unwanted craftwork. Increasingly popular since an agreement was signed allowing the population of the neighbouring Russian oblast of Kaliningrad to travel to Gdansk visa-free. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 27 35, www.kuchnia-rosyjska.aleks.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-42zł). 6EGSW

SCANDINAVIAN GÅRD � NORDIC KITCHEN Set in the Courtyard Marriott hotel overlooking the quay and museum ships, Gard is an extremely attractive eatery with a menu inspired by dishes from our Scandinavian neighbours across the water. The single sheet menu is concise but has all the bases covered with a great selection of original dishes featuring the kind of ingredients you might expect and some you might not. The Trilogy of Danish Smørrebrød (including fish and salted beef) is a great way to start before following up with a more traditional Swedish meatballs and mashed potato dish or perhaps one of the grilled meat dishes (choose from lamb, pork, chicken, steak, salmon or Polish sausage) mixed with 56 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

          

potatoes and a small salad from the selection of sides on offer. This is a great spot with a professional staff, separate kids’ menu and surprisingly reasonable prices considering the location and quality on offer. QO-1, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 15, www. gard-nordickitchen.com. Open for breakfast breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Fri 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (3454zł). TUEGW

SPANISH PATIO PA TIO ESPAÑOL A very attractive looking venue in a new development which is helping attract people onto the previously quiet ul. Szeroka. With the car parked outside we were forced to reluctantly skip the wine list which caught our eye and settled instead for a selection of Tapas and a seafood paella for two, both of which were delicious. The multilanguage menu features other attractive dishes and a scan of neighbouring tables suggests that we weren’t the only ones to leave happy. QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 11, www. patioespanol.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70zł). TUGSW

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 The friendly friendlystaff welcome welcomeyou to to therestau restaurant rant by explainin explainingg the concept of the menu - in a nutshell we’re talking steak - a choice of prime round, rump, rib-eye or fillet beef prepared to order on a open grill. There are other dishes to choose from including the ‘La La Pampa specialties’ which feature skewers of meats, onions and peppers as well as pork, chicken and fish dishes and huge salads but the draw here is the steak.  The Argentinean fillet was cooked to perfection on and was complimented by the additional sides of fried vegetables and potatoes which came mixed with bacon and onions. There is a decent selection of wines as well to pair with your meal. Also at ul. Szeroka 32/35, Gdańsk (C-4). QC-4, ul. Szewska 1/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 798 19 71 97, www.lapampa.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (26-88zł). UGBW

THAI BUDDHA LOUNGE  The limitations on the Gdańsk culinary scene are demonstrated in the serious lack of choice for ethnic food in the old town. Buddha is therefore up there as one of your best options and with authentic Asian chefs in the kitchen the results are pretty decent. Choose from a range of Asian dishes, not just limited to Thai while seated in a colourful and cosy room overlooking the main pedestrian street in the centre of the old town. A top summer garden, a professional and courteous staff and an adjacent late night cocktail bar keep this place constantly busy. QB-4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44, www.buddhalou www.buddhalounge.pl. nge.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-49zł). TUXSW

 The  Th e Only Only  Autenc  Thai and  Thai Lao Food

in Gdańsk u. Targ Rybny 11  e. +48 58 305 25 25 ce� +48 797 334 000 [email protected]  www.lotai.p 

LAO THAI An extremely good Thai restaurant which boasts views over the river and Philharmonic building. On the menu are very tasty classics of Lao-Thai cuisine which come with just the right amount of spice (not always a given in ethnic eateries in Poland). A recommendable destination destination if you’ve had enough of the local cuisine and want to put a bit of spice back in your diet. QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 797 33 40 00, www.laothai.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (24-50zł). 6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 57

Restaurants

Restaurants STEAK CRUDO An extremely smart space with steak as the cornerstone of the menu. Found a little way up Monciak towards the church, Crudo’s single-sided menu comes presented on a wooden board offering five types of steak including a salmon option. We could talk about the chowder or the beefburger option but that would be to miss the attraction of the place which is the steak. Cooked as requested (not a given in many places), the 300g of beef was very good, served with caramelised onions and hand-cut fries and washed down with a glass of red wine which complemented the food perfectly. Recommended both as a place to take the important business client or simply as a place to get back to carnivorous basics. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 36/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 82 45 00, www. crudogrill.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (35-90zł). UGSW

                 

NORDIC KITCHEN

J. WASZYNGTONA 19; GDYNIA +48 58 743 07 15; www.gard-nordickitchen.com

LA PAMPA STEAKHOUSE                                      

RUSSIAN KUCHNIA ROSYJSKA Pad out your stomach lining with a visit to Kuchnia Rosyjska, a cheap, cheerful venture presenting strange mashed dishes that defy efforts at identification. Still, the pielmieni are good, and the service rarely goes wrong. All this in an interior that looks like a really naff gift store - lots of dolls and unwanted craftwork. Increasingly popular since an agreement was signed allowing the population of the neighbouring Russian oblast of Kaliningrad to travel to Gdansk visa-free. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 27 35, www.kuchnia-rosyjska.aleks.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-42zł). 6EGSW

SCANDINAVIAN GÅRD � NORDIC KITCHEN Set in the Courtyard Marriott hotel overlooking the quay and museum ships, Gard is an extremely attractive eatery with a menu inspired by dishes from our Scandinavian neighbours across the water. The single sheet menu is concise but has all the bases covered with a great selection of original dishes featuring the kind of ingredients you might expect and some you might not. The Trilogy of Danish Smørrebrød (including fish and salted beef) is a great way to start before following up with a more traditional Swedish meatballs and mashed potato dish or perhaps one of the grilled meat dishes (choose from lamb, pork, chicken, steak, salmon or Polish sausage) mixed with

          

potatoes and a small salad from the selection of sides on offer. This is a great spot with a professional staff, separate kids’ menu and surprisingly reasonable prices considering the location and quality on offer. QO-1, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 15, www. gard-nordickitchen.com. Open for breakfast breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Fri 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (3454zł). TUEGW

SPANISH PATIO PA TIO ESPAÑOL A very attractive looking venue in a new development which is helping attract people onto the previously quiet ul. Szeroka. With the car parked outside we were forced to reluctantly skip the wine list which caught our eye and settled instead for a selection of Tapas and a seafood paella for two, both of which were delicious. The multilanguage menu features other attractive dishes and a scan of neighbouring tables suggests that we weren’t the only ones to leave happy. QC-4, ul. Tandeta 1 (entrance on ul. Szeroka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 573 34 11, www. patioespanol.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-70zł). TUGSW

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56 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The friendly friendlystaff welcome welcomeyou to to therestau restaurant rant by explainin explainingg the concept of the menu - in a nutshell we’re talking steak - a choice of prime round, rump, rib-eye or fillet beef prepared to order on a open grill. There are other dishes to choose from including the ‘La La Pampa specialties’ which feature skewers of meats, onions and peppers as well as pork, chicken and fish dishes and huge salads but the draw here is the steak.  The Argentinean fillet was cooked to perfection on and was complimented by the additional sides of fried vegetables and potatoes which came mixed with bacon and onions. There is a decent selection of wines as well to pair with your meal. Also at ul. Szeroka 32/35, Gdańsk (C-4). QC-4, ul. Szewska 1/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 798 19 71 97, www.lapampa.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (26-88zł). UGBW

 The  Th e Only Only  Autenc

THAI

 Thai and  Thai Lao Food

BUDDHA LOUNGE  The limitations on the Gdańsk culinary scene are demonstrated in the serious lack of choice for ethnic food in the old town. Buddha is therefore up there as one of your best options and with authentic Asian chefs in the kitchen the results are pretty decent. Choose from a range of Asian dishes, not just limited to Thai while seated in a colourful and cosy room overlooking the main pedestrian street in the centre of the old town. A top summer garden, a professional and courteous staff and an adjacent late night cocktail bar keep this place constantly busy. QB-4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44, www.buddhalou www.buddhalounge.pl. nge.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-49zł). TUXSW

in Gdańsk u. Targ Rybny 11  e. +48 58 305 25 25 ce� +48 797 334 000 [email protected]  www.lotai.p 

LAO THAI An extremely good Thai restaurant which boasts views over the river and Philharmonic building. On the menu are very tasty classics of Lao-Thai cuisine which come with just the right amount of spice (not always a given in ethnic eateries in Poland). A recommendable destination destination if you’ve had enough of the local cuisine and want to put a bit of spice back in your diet. QD-3, ul. Targ Rybny 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 797 33 40 00, www.laothai.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (24-50zł). 6GSW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 57

Restaurants MILK BARS Don‘t expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state, this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced out of business and the survivors, aside from offering an interesting diversion for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat lots in return for a handful of coins.

BAR BURSZTYN A modern milk bar which has managed to retain the key elements which made them so successful in their prime - value for money and price. The place packed out most days with the prices ensuring returning trade despite the stressed out service and cold veg. QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 78-80,80a, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 718 74 75, www.barbursztyn.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (1419zł). TUGSW

BAR MLECZNY SŁONECZNY Keep an eye out for the ‘Sunshine Milk Bar’which has been dishing up extremely good value food for over 50 years. This is still the place to get your fill both of pretty decent food and any nostalgia you may have for the days of the Iron Curtain. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 58-60 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 53 16. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (6-18zł). UGS

BAR MLECZNY NEPTUN  The most famous milk bar in town, and as such expect expect it to be rammed with pensioners, builders and weird backpackers queueing for pork chops and mashed cabbage. Get there early as variety diminishes quickly. QC-4/5, ul. Długa 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 49 88. Open 07:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (4-17zł). TGSW

BAR MLECZNY TURYSTYCZNY A long-standing Milk Bar offering fried cutlets, pierogi, stuffed cabbage leaves and the like which has previously been tipped by the British Guardian newspaper as a decent, local, cheap eat. QB-3/4, ul. Szeroka 8/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 60 13, www. barturystyczny.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (4-15zł). UNGS

BAR POD WIERZBĄ While the Milk Bars of the old town have become living museums with the bulk of customers now local or foreign tourists, Bar Pod Wierzbą (Under the Willow) is a Milk Bar still serving those it was designed to serve - the workers. Enjoy a cheap and basic Polish meal alongside dirty but polite shipyard workers. QI-3, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 608 59 90 90. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (12-17zł). NG 58 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Restaurants THAI THAI Our favourite Thai restaurant to emerge in Sopot. Set on the ground floor of a des ign hotel this venue has it all, from a great team of chefs through a professional staff to delicious food. Dine on exotic noodle and wok dishes inside a fine interior embellished with Buddha’s. Certainly not the cheapest meal around, but certainly one of the best, with the green chicken curry winning particular praise. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 11 00, www.thaithai.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30. (39-80zł). TUGSW

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN GREEN WA WAY Y Greenway was one of Poland’s great success stories, starting off as a cheap veggie bar in the Gdańsk district of Żabianka, the winning formula of good-quality, tasty, vegetarian, affordable food literally mushroomed into one of Poland’s most successful restaurant chains. They seem to have shrunk in recent years but you should still expect a decent range of meat free dishes with daily specials marked up on the board, a great choice of juices and a primarily young, studenty crowd.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 47, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 47 23, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. (10-18zł). T6GSW

I KROWA CAŁA You’d think a burger place called the ‘And the whole cow’ would serve up the biggest beefburgers and steaks in town but you’d be wrong. First of all the ‘cała (whole)’in reference to this krowa (cow) means ‘unharmed as in the Polish saying ‘Wilk syty i owca cała’(The wolf is full and the sheep is unharmed)’. Polish lesson over. Everything served and prepared here is vegan from the burgers to the tacos to the pitta to the sandwiches. And as much as we like meat in our burgers we love this as well. The lentil (Soczew) burger with mustard sauce was delicious. Keep an eye out for their lemonades and S mufis (a great example of an English word being put through the Polish press).QN-1, ul. Dworcowa 11, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 665 78 20 25, www.ikrowacala.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-17zł). 6GSW

 VIETNAMESE  VIETNAMES E

POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’(literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. The menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare.

BIAŁE WINO I OWOCE Having built a good reputation in Sopot, Biale Wino & Owoce upped sticks and moved to Gdynia where they’ve re-opened in larger more attractive premises with an expanded offer. They still do the classic Polish snack food of herring or tartar with a raw egg washed down with shots of vodka at remarkably cheap prices, but you now visit during the day for a choice o f coffee, tea, cake, sandwiches and a choice of mains including chicken breast with mozzarella. What was once a place we recommended as a good start or end to an evening on the town is now recommended whatever the hour. QN/O-1, ul. Świętojańska 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 511 97 56 87, www.bialewinoiowoce.pl. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. GW

NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Druga Nozke literally means ‘For the other leg’ which is a Polish phrase meaning something like ‘one for the road’. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They have Tyskie on tap for 5zl and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including calamari, nuggets and pierogi. For something different ask for a ‘kiwówka’ ‘kiwówka’ - a kiwi flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85, www. NaDrugaNozke.pl. Open 16:00 - 04:50. UXW

AUTHENTIC INDIAN KHMER AND  THAI CUISI C UISINE NE IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN

PUB POLSKIE KINO

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM Located halfway along Gdynia’s main boulevard, ul. Świętojańska, this is one of the best options for ethnic eating in the city. The menu is reasonably concise but offers more than enough for you to something you’ll like while prices are pitched in the 20-40zl bracket meaning that there is a constant flow of trade. The restaurant has a eastern feel without going overboard on the paraphernalia and the staff are friendly and prompt. The places biggest plus however is the quality of the ingredients with fresh vegetables while the duck and the chicken were both excellent making this well worth recommending for both quality and value. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 83a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 711 30 30, www. goodmorningvietnam.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (23-34zł).GS gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Granted this is another of the cheap beer and shot places but this one gets mark for trying that bit harder. For one it’s not just cheap beer and vodka that you can buy for a few coins, but also 8 flavours of Polish nalewki  which are spirits flavoured over time with fruit or herbs. As the name suggests the bar is themed on Polish film though if you’re visiting from abroad you won’t know most if any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of one of the nalewki  and  and within no time at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski or the Polish comic actors depicted on the walls.QC-4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. GW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

 TH AI RE STA UR AN T  BUDDHA tel. 58 322 00 44 ul. Długa 18/21 Gdańsk  www.buddhalounge.pl December 2015 - April 2016 59

Restaurants MILK BARS Don‘t expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state, this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced out of business and the survivors, aside from offering an interesting diversion for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat lots in return for a handful of coins.

BAR BURSZTYN A modern milk bar which has managed to retain the key elements which made them so successful in their prime - value for money and price. The place packed out most days with the prices ensuring returning trade despite the stressed out service and cold veg. QM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 78-80,80a, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 718 74 75, www.barbursztyn.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (1419zł). TUGSW

BAR MLECZNY SŁONECZNY Keep an eye out for the ‘Sunshine Milk Bar’which has been dishing up extremely good value food for over 50 years. This is still the place to get your fill both of pretty decent food and any nostalgia you may have for the days of the Iron Curtain. QN-2, ul. Abrahama 58-60 (entrance from ul. Władysława IV), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 53 16. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (6-18zł). UGS

BAR MLECZNY NEPTUN  The most famous milk bar in town, and as such expect expect it to be rammed with pensioners, builders and weird backpackers queueing for pork chops and mashed cabbage. Get there early as variety diminishes quickly. QC-4/5, ul. Długa 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 49 88. Open 07:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (4-17zł). TGSW

BAR MLECZNY TURYSTYCZNY A long-standing Milk Bar offering fried cutlets, pierogi, stuffed cabbage leaves and the like which has previously been tipped by the British Guardian newspaper as a decent, local, cheap eat. QB-3/4, ul. Szeroka 8/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 60 13, www. barturystyczny.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (4-15zł). UNGS

BAR POD WIERZBĄ While the Milk Bars of the old town have become living museums with the bulk of customers now local or foreign tourists, Bar Pod Wierzbą (Under the Willow) is a Milk Bar still serving those it was designed to serve - the workers. Enjoy a cheap and basic Polish meal alongside dirty but polite shipyard workers. QI-3, ul. Doki 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 608 59 90 90. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (12-17zł). NG

Restaurants THAI THAI Our favourite Thai restaurant to emerge in Sopot. Set on the ground floor of a des ign hotel this venue has it all, from a great team of chefs through a professional staff to delicious food. Dine on exotic noodle and wok dishes inside a fine interior embellished with Buddha’s. Certainly not the cheapest meal around, but certainly one of the best, with the green chicken curry winning particular praise. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 11 00, www.thaithai.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:30. (39-80zł). TUGSW

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN GREEN WA WAY Y Greenway was one of Poland’s great success stories, starting off as a cheap veggie bar in the Gdańsk district of Żabianka, the winning formula of good-quality, tasty, vegetarian, affordable food literally mushroomed into one of Poland’s most successful restaurant chains. They seem to have shrunk in recent years but you should still expect a decent range of meat free dishes with daily specials marked up on the board, a great choice of juices and a primarily young, studenty crowd.QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 47, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 47 23, www.greenway.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. (10-18zł). T6GSW

I KROWA CAŁA You’d think a burger place called the ‘And the whole cow’ would serve up the biggest beefburgers and steaks in town but you’d be wrong. First of all the ‘cała (whole)’in reference to this krowa (cow) means ‘unharmed as in the Polish saying ‘Wilk syty i owca cała’(The wolf is full and the sheep is unharmed)’. Polish lesson over. Everything served and prepared here is vegan from the burgers to the tacos to the pitta to the sandwiches. And as much as we like meat in our burgers we love this as well. The lentil (Soczew) burger with mustard sauce was delicious. Keep an eye out for their lemonades and S mufis (a great example of an English word being put through the Polish press).QN-1, ul. Dworcowa 11, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 665 78 20 25, www.ikrowacala.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-17zł). 6GSW

 VIETNAMESE  VIETNAMES E

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’(literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. The menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare.

BIAŁE WINO I OWOCE Having built a good reputation in Sopot, Biale Wino & Owoce upped sticks and moved to Gdynia where they’ve re-opened in larger more attractive premises with an expanded offer. They still do the classic Polish snack food of herring or tartar with a raw egg washed down with shots of vodka at remarkably cheap prices, but you now visit during the day for a choice o f coffee, tea, cake, sandwiches and a choice of mains including chicken breast with mozzarella. What was once a place we recommended as a good start or end to an evening on the town is now recommended whatever the hour. QN/O-1, ul. Świętojańska 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 511 97 56 87, www.bialewinoiowoce.pl. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. GW

NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Druga Nozke literally means ‘For the other leg’ which is a Polish phrase meaning something like ‘one for the road’. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They have Tyskie on tap for 5zl and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including calamari, nuggets and pierogi. For something different ask for a ‘kiwówka’ ‘kiwówka’ - a kiwi flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85, www. NaDrugaNozke.pl. Open 16:00 - 04:50. UXW

AUTHENTIC INDIAN KHMER AND  THAI CUISI C UISINE NE IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN

PUB POLSKIE KINO

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM Located halfway along Gdynia’s main boulevard, ul. Świętojańska, this is one of the best options for ethnic eating in the city. The menu is reasonably concise but offers more than enough for you to something you’ll like while prices are pitched in the 20-40zl bracket meaning that there is a constant flow of trade. The restaurant has a eastern feel without going overboard on the paraphernalia and the staff are friendly and prompt. The places biggest plus however is the quality of the ingredients with fresh vegetables while the duck and the chicken were both excellent making this well worth recommending for both quality and value. QN-1, ul. Świętojańska 83a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 711 30 30, www. goodmorningvietnam.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (23-34zł).GS

58 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

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Granted this is another of the cheap beer and shot places but this one gets mark for trying that bit harder. For one it’s not just cheap beer and vodka that you can buy for a few coins, but also 8 flavours of Polish nalewki  which are spirits flavoured over time with fruit or herbs. As the name suggests the bar is themed on Polish film though if you’re visiting from abroad you won’t know most if any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of one of the nalewki  and  and within no time at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski or the Polish comic actors depicted on the walls.QC-4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. GW

 TH AI RE STA UR AN T  BUDDHA tel. 58 322 00 44 ul. Długa 18/21 Gdańsk  www.buddhalounge.pl December 2015 - April 2016 59

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Cafés

Cafés the Radunia canal. QB-3, ul. Na Piaskach 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 303 26 38, www.czekoladowymlyn.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. TGSW

DRUKARNIA A smart café on the picturesque Mariacka street which is located in what was once a printing house (hence the name – Drukarnia means just that in English). The look is quite modern and industrial reflecting reflecting the premises’ ses’ previous incarnation though the reason to visit is the coffee which is excellent. Take a slice of the carrot cake like we did and you’ll be set up perfectly for your next leg of sightseeing. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 36, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 07 35 34. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. 6SW

GOLDWASSER COFFEE SHOP

Get  in  in fr om om the the co  cold ld and  en joy   en joy  some  some cos y c afes afes and and bar s such c  as Soo pot’ s Ble it n y Pud el el (t  e Blue Po Poodl  odl e) e)

CAFE KAMIENICA Drink under the gables and gargoyles of Mariacka in this standout café/bar, a boho space set on two levels. Consisting of strip-wood floors and arty loot this is a place not short on charm and, when the weather is warmer one of the biggest and best terraces in Gdańsk. Winter or summer, there are few more atmospheric places for a coffee or beer. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 37/39, Gdańsk, www. cafekamienica.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. 6GW

CHWILA Chwila means moment in Polish and you’ll find it underneath its sister establishment of that name in the Infobox building. The draw here is the selection of freshly made breads, quiches, panini and desserts which combined with its central location make it well worth taking a ‘chwila’ to stop by.QN-1, ul. Świetojańska 30 (Infobox), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 623 34 69, www.chwilamoment.com.pl. Open 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 18:00. T6UG SW

CUKIERNIA DELICJE  This is a bit of a legend in the Tri-city and harks back to a day when the only thing linking Gdynia and Seattle was a long-range ballistic missile. Opened at the end of the 1970s, Delicje built a reputation for turning out wonderful cakes at a time when small things like cake cake were valued even more in Poland than they are now - Poles like cake. A marvel of classic 1970s design: the murals, carpets and white leather stools are all tasteless but strangely cool. Upstairs is a spacious café with plenty of seating on 60 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

couches; downstairs is the bakery popular for its cakes, tarts and pastries. QN-1, ul. 10 Lutego 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 73 37, www.delicje.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. TGS

Gold it certainly is. Walk past the narrow room selling pralines and gift sets, and duck upstairs to find a posh cafe space primed for an afternoon sit-down - choose from great snack options, including a tasty gulaszowa. Very nice indeed, though the primary reason for visiting is the small list of old local liqueurs, the recipes for which were painstakingly researched and recreated by the owner, as well as some great wine including the house fave: Grauer Burgunder Blanc. German Chancellor Angela Merkel, clearly an avid IYP reader, choose Cafe Goldwasser to spend a relaxing time discussing business with then Polish President Bronislaw Komorowski. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 12, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. G

KVASS Kvass or as it is more commonly known in Poland ‘ Kwas Chlebowy ’ is a soft drink made from fermented dark rye bread and historically very popular in this part of the world. While you’ll not find it being sold on the street from large tanks, like you do in nearby Kaliningrad, you will find it making a bit of a comeback in local bars and restaurants. Kvass has a very low alcohol content (generally less than 1%). It is thought to have arrived in Poland from the east in about the 10th century and has been popular for most of the time since. Between the wars Kvass made a strong comeback after its popularity suffered during the century of partition but it lost ground again later on in the communist era as Coca-Cola became the fashionable drink. With the growth in small, traditional bars and restaurants who are reviving traditional recipes, Kvass has started to make a bit of a comeback here. Described by Michael Palin on his travels through these parts a few years ago as having ‘A curious taste which I can only describe as a mix of Pepsi-Cola and gravy’ it might not be for everyone. Give it a try at places like FamiliaWileńska.

CYGANERIA  This was at one-time Gdynia’s number one‘bar noir’and the name still conjures images of when it was a place student revolutionaries sat smoking and plotting revolution over the Commie government. While the national revolution took place at the end of the eighties, it took Cyganeria a quarter of a century to follow suit (although we might need to organise a demonstration to revolt against the same old selection of beer). Today it is a warm and inviting space set on the ground floor of one of the city’s modernist apartment building which is shaped like an ocean liner and today’s Cyganeria offers a more remarkable menu than most cafes in town. As day becomes evening it morphs into an inviting place for a glass of wine while you have your own whispered conversation. QN-1, ul. 3 Maja 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 77 22, www.cafecyganeria.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Fri 10:00 - 01:30, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. GW

cafe and restaurant

More than just sweets!

ul. Długa 39 80-828 Gdańsk e-mail: [email protected] tel. + 48 514 925 939 www.lookiercafe.pl

CZEKOLADOWY MŁYN  The Chocolate Mill is arguably one of the most picturesque cafes in town. While this building only dates from 1997 there was a miller’s house first built here in 1684. As the name suggests, the focus here is on chocolate and you’ll find it in all of its forms. Enjoy a rich drinking chocolate either in the tastefully re-modelled interiors or, if the weather permits, on their beautiful terrace set on a fork in gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Open 8:00 - 22:00 Weekends Weeke nds open until last guest

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December 2015 - April 2016 61

Cafés

Cafés the Radunia canal. QB-3, ul. Na Piaskach 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 303 26 38, www.czekoladowymlyn.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. TGSW

DRUKARNIA A smart café on the picturesque Mariacka street which is located in what was once a printing house (hence the name – Drukarnia means just that in English). The look is quite modern and industrial reflecting reflecting the premises’ ses’ previous incarnation though the reason to visit is the coffee which is excellent. Take a slice of the carrot cake like we did and you’ll be set up perfectly for your next leg of sightseeing. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 36, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 07 35 34. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. 6SW

GOLDWASSER COFFEE SHOP

Get  in  in fr om om the the co  cold ld and  en joy   en joy  some  some cos y c afes afes and and bar s such c  as Soo pot’ s Ble it n y Pud el el (t  e Blue Po Poodl  odl e) e)

CAFE KAMIENICA Drink under the gables and gargoyles of Mariacka in this standout café/bar, a boho space set on two levels. Consisting of strip-wood floors and arty loot this is a place not short on charm and, when the weather is warmer one of the biggest and best terraces in Gdańsk. Winter or summer, there are few more atmospheric places for a coffee or beer. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 37/39, Gdańsk, www. cafekamienica.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. 6GW

CHWILA Chwila means moment in Polish and you’ll find it underneath its sister establishment of that name in the Infobox building. The draw here is the selection of freshly made breads, quiches, panini and desserts which combined with its central location make it well worth taking a ‘chwila’ to stop by.QN-1, ul. Świetojańska 30 (Infobox), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 623 34 69, www.chwilamoment.com.pl. Open 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 18:00. T6UG SW

CUKIERNIA DELICJE  This is a bit of a legend in the Tri-city and harks back to a day when the only thing linking Gdynia and Seattle was a long-range ballistic missile. Opened at the end of the 1970s, Delicje built a reputation for turning out wonderful cakes at a time when small things like cake cake were valued even more in Poland than they are now - Poles like cake. A marvel of classic 1970s design: the murals, carpets and white leather stools are all tasteless but strangely cool. Upstairs is a spacious café with plenty of seating on

couches; downstairs is the bakery popular for its cakes, tarts and pastries. QN-1, ul. 10 Lutego 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 73 37, www.delicje.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. TGS

Gold it certainly is. Walk past the narrow room selling pralines and gift sets, and duck upstairs to find a posh cafe space primed for an afternoon sit-down - choose from great snack options, including a tasty gulaszowa. Very nice indeed, though the primary reason for visiting is the small list of old local liqueurs, the recipes for which were painstakingly researched and recreated by the owner, as well as some great wine including the house fave: Grauer Burgunder Blanc. German Chancellor Angela Merkel, clearly an avid IYP reader, choose Cafe Goldwasser to spend a relaxing time discussing business with then Polish President Bronislaw Komorowski. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 90 12, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. G

KVASS Kvass or as it is more commonly known in Poland ‘ Kwas Chlebowy ’ is a soft drink made from fermented dark rye bread and historically very popular in this part of the world. While you’ll not find it being sold on the street from large tanks, like you do in nearby Kaliningrad, you will find it making a bit of a comeback in local bars and restaurants. Kvass has a very low alcohol content (generally less than 1%). It is thought to have arrived in Poland from the east in about the 10th century and has been popular for most of the time since. Between the wars Kvass made a strong comeback after its popularity suffered during the century of partition but it lost ground again later on in the communist era as Coca-Cola became the fashionable drink. With the growth in small, traditional bars and restaurants who are reviving traditional recipes, Kvass has started to make a bit of a comeback here. Described by Michael Palin on his travels through these parts a few years ago as having ‘A curious taste which I can only describe as a mix of Pepsi-Cola and gravy’ it might not be for everyone. Give it a try at places like FamiliaWileńska.

CYGANERIA  This was at one-time Gdynia’s number one‘bar noir’and the name still conjures images of when it was a place student revolutionaries sat smoking and plotting revolution over the Commie government. While the national revolution took place at the end of the eighties, it took Cyganeria a quarter of a century to follow suit (although we might need to organise a demonstration to revolt against the same old selection of beer). Today it is a warm and inviting space set on the ground floor of one of the city’s modernist apartment building which is shaped like an ocean liner and today’s Cyganeria offers a more remarkable menu than most cafes in town. As day becomes evening it morphs into an inviting place for a glass of wine while you have your own whispered conversation. QN-1, ul. 3 Maja 27, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 77 22, www.cafecyganeria.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Fri 10:00 - 01:30, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. GW

cafe and restaurant

More than just sweets!

ul. Długa 39 80-828 Gdańsk e-mail: [email protected] tel. + 48 514 925 939 www.lookiercafe.pl

CZEKOLADOWY MŁYN  The Chocolate Mill is arguably one of the most picturesque cafes in town. While this building only dates from 1997 there was a miller’s house first built here in 1684. As the name suggests, the focus here is on chocolate and you’ll find it in all of its forms. Enjoy a rich drinking chocolate either in the tastefully re-modelled interiors or, if the weather permits, on their beautiful terrace set on a fork in

60 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Open 8:00 - 22:00 Weekends Weeke nds open until last guest

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December 2015 - April 2016 61

Cafés

Cafés KAVA

PIKAWA

A friendly little cafe/bar at the bottom of Monte Cassino which offers a range of coffee and alcohol until late evening. They also have a concise but decent choice of food including breakfasts featuring a choice of scrambled eggs, croissants and the like from early morning and a good lunch menu through the rest of the day. Found on the side of the main street which catches the morning sun, the garden is perfect for watching the world go by over an early morning coffee (when weather permits). QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 503 09 76 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00. GW

 The perfect café to wile away an afternoon sipping on a latte or discreetly downing a lavish dessert, Pi Kawa has the soft lighting and mismatched furniture that creates instant atmosphere. The perfect hideout from the throngs that crowd nearby Długa, especially when only szarlotka (traditional Polish apple dessert) will do. QC-4, ul. Piwna 14/15, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 88, www.pikawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 6UGSW

KAWIARNIA FILMOWA W STARYM KADRZE

DANIEL FAHRENHEIT Give a moment to Daniel Fahrenheit, the local lad who gave his name to the temperature scale. Born on 24th May, 1686, Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit grew up on ul. Ogarna 195, Gdansk, the eldest of the five Fahrenheit children to survive childhood.  The son of a me rchant , Fahr enheit had a n omadic upbringing, his family shifting round the Hanseatic cities of Europe as his father pursued riches. After his parents died suddenly Daniel abandoned his studies and joined a firm of merchants trading in Amsterdam. But his thirst for the sciences never left him and his travels took him across Europe, and he became acquainted with leading academic figures like Gottfried Leibenz and Christian Wolff. By 1718 he had quit his work to lecture full time in Amsterdam, and in 1724 he travelled to England to be inaugurated into the Royal Society. However, his defining moment was yet to come. The same year his experiments with thermometers led to the development of the Fahrenheit scale, the first accurate way of measuring temperature in the world. Up until the 1970s the scale he devised was used across the world, and while most nations have since abandoned it in favour of Celsius it continues to be used in the USA and a handful of other nations. 62 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

A wonderful little cafe in a quiet street found in the shadow of St Mary’s next to the Four Quarters Fountain. While the menu offers a wide range of teas, a choice of generously sized cups of coffee (unlike most) and brownies and szarlotka (apple cake) with ice cream it’s the place itself that gets our nod. For not only is it wonderfully atmospheric, with old family pictures on the walls adding to the feeling that this is a real old-time Gdanskian’s living room, it also has a totally unique gimic. Tucked Tucked away in the back is a 12-seater cinema which shows films three times daily (14:00, 17:00 and 20:00) with a different theme each two weeks. The films are International rather than Polish meaning you, the foreign visitor, can watch most. Add to that the choice of locally produced beer and film themed shots and this place gets our vote as one of the most original to open in recent years. Love it. QC-4, ul. Grobla I 3/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 15 67, www.wstarymkadrze.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. GW

LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT An extremely smart cafe on Gdansk’s main street recommendable for the concise but impressive menu of salads and light meals. The ability to get something to eat that was tasty, light and well-priced would normally be enough of a draw for us, but there are two additional boons here. Firstly a good selection of b reakfast sandwiches which is a pleasant change from the typical roll + cheese+ ham/ salmon breakfast offering. Secondly the cakes. Delicious. QC-4, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 23:00. 6GSW

MŁODY BYRON Located inside the historic Dworek Sierakowskich, this small cafe and bar has an intimate, modern feel, as well as an arty resident crowd appreciative of both the adjacent gallery and the weekend cultural happenings: poetry evenings, concerts, the whole shebang - take it all in with a glass of Ciechan, one of Poland’s proudest beers. In warmer months the shaded garden out back with its deck chairs scattered inside an area guarded by photos of old Sopot plays host to occasional open-air theatre while a gate to the adjacent playground makes it very parent-friendly. QM-4, ul. Czyżewskiego 12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 796 27 76 28. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. TENG gdansk.inyourpocket.com

RETRO CAFE A stylish cafe in the shadow of St. Mary’s Basilica, the retro should conjure up images of handsome and comfortable furniture with black and white prints of old Gdańsk rather the hippy collection of old plastic furniture you might think. You’llll find a comprehensive range of tea, smoothies, chocolate and a specially selected coffees along with their signature item - cakes. Find a delicious range of cheesecakes and tarts which are all home baked using high quality ingredients. The perfect place to take a break from sightseeing in the old town. QC-4, ul. Piwna 5/6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 21 79 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. T6GS

ROTUNDA CAFE An extremely smart cafe/bar located in the Resort House (Dom Zdrojowy). Rotunda has a relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff but what makes it worth recommending, particularly on sunnier days, are the window tables and the terrace outside. Overlooking the gardens leading to the pier and the pier itself, you might expect this to be an exclusive area for guests of the hotel which it isn’t. Instead it’s an excellent place to relax with a coffee or drink while you take a break from breathing in all that fresh sea air. Open from breakfast, a coffee and one of their delicious cakes cost a surprisingly small 5 Euros, while you’ll also find a range of salads, sandwiches and desserts on offer. Then as the day moves into evening it becomes a great place for pre-meal drinks with a bar staff well schooled in the craft of the cocktail. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 60, www.sheraton.pl/sopot. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From January open 09:00 - 19:00. From April open 08:00 23:00. UGW

THAT ENGLISH PLACE A bright, airy spot just off Swietojanska in which to enjoy a range of delicious homemade cakes, a choice of good coffee and, this is its number one draw for us, REAL English tea. For those who miss a ‘proper’cup of tea this is the place for you to go with a lovely piece of chocolate cake. This is more than a café though and the couple who opened late on in 2015 are clearly trying to build a community around the café with English-speaking workshops, parents and children groups and charity events. Give their Facebook page a look and stop by for a cuppa.. QN-1, Józefa Wybickiego 3/1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 512 807 719, www. thatenglishplace.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.

Pikawa is located in the centre of Old own Gdańsk on Piwna Street. Visit this cosy and intimate intimate café where you can enjoy �ne coffee, excellent tea from a fairytale forest and unique desserts that will satisfy both the palate and the aesthetic experience of every person.

 „P ik aw a” | ul . Pi wn a 14 /1 5, 80 -8 31 Gd ań sk | te l. 58 30 4 14 88 | ww w.p ik aw a. pl 

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December 2015 - April 2016 63

Cafés

Cafés KAVA

PIKAWA

A friendly little cafe/bar at the bottom of Monte Cassino which offers a range of coffee and alcohol until late evening. They also have a concise but decent choice of food including breakfasts featuring a choice of scrambled eggs, croissants and the like from early morning and a good lunch menu through the rest of the day. Found on the side of the main street which catches the morning sun, the garden is perfect for watching the world go by over an early morning coffee (when weather permits). QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 503 09 76 20. Open 07:00 - 24:00. GW

 The perfect café to wile away an afternoon sipping on a latte or discreetly downing a lavish dessert, Pi Kawa has the soft lighting and mismatched furniture that creates instant atmosphere. The perfect hideout from the throngs that crowd nearby Długa, especially when only szarlotka (traditional Polish apple dessert) will do. QC-4, ul. Piwna 14/15, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 14 88, www.pikawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 6UGSW

KAWIARNIA FILMOWA W STARYM KADRZE

DANIEL FAHRENHEIT Give a moment to Daniel Fahrenheit, the local lad who gave his name to the temperature scale. Born on 24th May, 1686, Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit grew up on ul. Ogarna 195, Gdansk, the eldest of the five Fahrenheit children to survive childhood.  The son of a me rchant , Fahr enheit had a n omadic upbringing, his family shifting round the Hanseatic cities of Europe as his father pursued riches. After his parents died suddenly Daniel abandoned his studies and joined a firm of merchants trading in Amsterdam. But his thirst for the sciences never left him and his travels took him across Europe, and he became acquainted with leading academic figures like Gottfried Leibenz and Christian Wolff. By 1718 he had quit his work to lecture full time in Amsterdam, and in 1724 he travelled to England to be inaugurated into the Royal Society. However, his defining moment was yet to come. The same year his experiments with thermometers led to the development of the Fahrenheit scale, the first accurate way of measuring temperature in the world. Up until the 1970s the scale he devised was used across the world, and while most nations have since abandoned it in favour of Celsius it continues to be used in the USA and a handful of other nations.

A wonderful little cafe in a quiet street found in the shadow of St Mary’s next to the Four Quarters Fountain. While the menu offers a wide range of teas, a choice of generously sized cups of coffee (unlike most) and brownies and szarlotka (apple cake) with ice cream it’s the place itself that gets our nod. For not only is it wonderfully atmospheric, with old family pictures on the walls adding to the feeling that this is a real old-time Gdanskian’s living room, it also has a totally unique gimic. Tucked Tucked away in the back is a 12-seater cinema which shows films three times daily (14:00, 17:00 and 20:00) with a different theme each two weeks. The films are International rather than Polish meaning you, the foreign visitor, can watch most. Add to that the choice of locally produced beer and film themed shots and this place gets our vote as one of the most original to open in recent years. Love it. QC-4, ul. Grobla I 3/4, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 15 67, www.wstarymkadrze.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. GW

LOOKIER CAFE & RESTAURANT An extremely smart cafe on Gdansk’s main street recommendable for the concise but impressive menu of salads and light meals. The ability to get something to eat that was tasty, light and well-priced would normally be enough of a draw for us, but there are two additional boons here. Firstly a good selection of b reakfast sandwiches which is a pleasant change from the typical roll + cheese+ ham/ salmon breakfast offering. Secondly the cakes. Delicious. QC-4, ul. Długa 39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 514 92 59 39, www.lookiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 23:00. 6GSW

MŁODY BYRON Located inside the historic Dworek Sierakowskich, this small cafe and bar has an intimate, modern feel, as well as an arty resident crowd appreciative of both the adjacent gallery and the weekend cultural happenings: poetry evenings, concerts, the whole shebang - take it all in with a glass of Ciechan, one of Poland’s proudest beers. In warmer months the shaded garden out back with its deck chairs scattered inside an area guarded by photos of old Sopot plays host to occasional open-air theatre while a gate to the adjacent playground makes it very parent-friendly. QM-4, ul. Czyżewskiego 12, Sopot, tel. (+48) 796 27 76 28. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. TENG

62 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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RETRO CAFE A stylish cafe in the shadow of St. Mary’s Basilica, the retro should conjure up images of handsome and comfortable furniture with black and white prints of old Gdańsk rather the hippy collection of old plastic furniture you might think. You’llll find a comprehensive range of tea, smoothies, chocolate and a specially selected coffees along with their signature item - cakes. Find a delicious range of cheesecakes and tarts which are all home baked using high quality ingredients. The perfect place to take a break from sightseeing in the old town. QC-4, ul. Piwna 5/6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 665 21 79 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. T6GS

ROTUNDA CAFE An extremely smart cafe/bar located in the Resort House (Dom Zdrojowy). Rotunda has a relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff but what makes it worth recommending, particularly on sunnier days, are the window tables and the terrace outside. Overlooking the gardens leading to the pier and the pier itself, you might expect this to be an exclusive area for guests of the hotel which it isn’t. Instead it’s an excellent place to relax with a coffee or drink while you take a break from breathing in all that fresh sea air. Open from breakfast, a coffee and one of their delicious cakes cost a surprisingly small 5 Euros, while you’ll also find a range of salads, sandwiches and desserts on offer. Then as the day moves into evening it becomes a great place for pre-meal drinks with a bar staff well schooled in the craft of the cocktail. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10 (Sheraton Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 60, www.sheraton.pl/sopot. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From January open 09:00 - 19:00. From April open 08:00 23:00. UGW

THAT ENGLISH PLACE A bright, airy spot just off Swietojanska in which to enjoy a range of delicious homemade cakes, a choice of good coffee and, this is its number one draw for us, REAL English tea. For those who miss a ‘proper’cup of tea this is the place for you to go with a lovely piece of chocolate cake. This is more than a café though and the couple who opened late on in 2015 are clearly trying to build a community around the café with English-speaking workshops, parents and children groups and charity events. Give their Facebook page a look and stop by for a cuppa.. QN-1, Józefa Wybickiego 3/1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 512 807 719, www. thatenglishplace.com. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.

Pikawa is located in the centre of Old own Gdańsk on Piwna Street. Visit this cosy and intimate intimate café where you can enjoy �ne coffee, excellent tea from a fairytale forest and unique desserts that will satisfy both the palate and the aesthetic experience of every person.

 „P ik aw a” | ul . Pi wn a 14 /1 5, 80 -8 31 Gd ań sk | te l. 58 30 4 14 88 | ww w.p ik aw a. pl 

December 2015 - April 2016 63

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Nightlife

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 3 SIOSTRY A local favourite and as the name suggests a cafe/bar/club run by 3 sisters, owners no doubt of the dozens of shoes nailed to the ceiling. These ladies know how to run a bar and the loyal clientele keep coming back to cram onto the tiny floor to dance the night away to classics from across the decades. A great spot to spend the evening where the opportunity to interact with the locals seems to be part of the design. For a bit of local flavour, ask Beata for a shot of her strawberry flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 00 00, www.3siostry.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 03:00. UGW

AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL

’ ’s

ear r  ea

r  hot win wine i  e an

e r are he orde orderr of t he he day . Give Give hem a go.

 There was a time when Gdansk’s nightlife seemed a bit limited but that’s changing. While Sopot is still recognised as the Tri-city’s party town there are more than enough good bars and the odd club which will keep you in the old town. That said Sopot is the centre of Tri-city with most of the action centred around the main drag, Monte Cassino where most clubs will apply a cover charge - expect to pay 10-30zł to get into the better ones. Gdynia Gdynia has  has a fair selection of options and while most of the nightlife is concentrated near the sea around Al. Jana Pawła and Skwer Kościuszki, Kościuszki, there are a bunch of less rowdy bars worth searching out. LOCAL  Try the beers brewed on-site at Brovarnia  or the locally Brovarnia or brewed juice at Flisak 76  76  and Amsterdam Bar. Bar. For a taste of something very local and a little bit odd, squeeze yourself into Vinifera Vinifera a  a mandatory fixture on any decent pub crawl. Sopot has a reputation, amongst others, as being the seaside capital for the country ’s artist crows and their HQ was famously Spatif . We’re no great fans but there probably isn’t a nightspot which is more ‘Sopot’. Another legendary venue, this time in Gdynia is Desdemona Desdemona,, a magnet for anyone with literary and artistic pretensions. For a taste of typical local nightlife culture, try one of the ‘Polish Snack & Shots’bars Shots’bars we list. COUPLES For something really picturesque take an evening stroll down ul. Mariacka and stop for a nightcap in Cafe Kamienica or Kamienica  or a glass of wine in Literacka Literacka.. In Sopot try the Blue Poodle, Poodle, aka Błękitny Pudel, an atmospheric, 64 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Local bottled brews have made a huge leap forward in the last couple of years thanks in no small part to places like this which are prepared to snub the major brewers and stock independent brewers in depth (over 180 bottled and draft beers available). The broadcast of live sports means it’s a good option for watching the match with a beer as well. QB-4, ul. Garbary 6/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 29 39. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. UGW

antiquarian bar which comes into its element as evening draws in. Or for a glass of wine, head to Cyrano et Roxane,, a rail-side cottage overseen by a Frenchman. Roxane You don’t have to be on a hot date to enjoy Srodmiescie which offers a good selection of food to help your date go well. SPECIAL Go five star and take drinks in the Hilton’s rooftop bar High 5  as you stare out over the river. Alternatively in Sopot the Sofitel Grand has Grand has hosted names as diverse as Omar Sharif and Marlene Dietrich over the years. Follow in their footsteps by taking cocktails in the hotel bar, Le Bar with gardens leading to the nearby beach. ALL NIGHT Sopot is the capital of the all-nighter. Greet dawn on the beach by drinking in Atelier Atelier   or mix with the fashionista at Sopot’s newest club Libation Libation.. Step inside the city’s signature building, the Crooked House, House , and take your pick from the selection of late night bars and clubs found upstairs there including the recommended Dream Club. Club .

vine.co/inyourpocket BIAŁE WINO I OWOCE Having built a good reputation in Sopot as one of the better Snacks & Shots bars in the city, Biale Wino & Owoce upped sticks and moved to Gdynia where they’ve re-opened in larger more attractive premises with an expanded offer.  They still do the classic Polish snack food of herring or tartar with a raw egg washed down with shots of vodka at remarkably cheap prices, but you now visit during the day for a choice of coffee, tea, cake, sandwiches and a choice of mains including chicken breast with mozzarella. What was once a place we recommended as a good start or end to an evening on the town is now recommended whatever the hour.QN/O-1, ul. Świętojańska 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 511 97 56 87, www.bialewinoiowoce.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. GW

BŁĘKITNY PUDEL Possibly the most underrated bar in town especially considering it sits in the centre of the city ’s nightlife quietly minding its own business. The Blue Poodle is a bit like entering an old living room (one with cobbled flooring mind) filled with springy armchairs, Grandfather clocks and old pictures and mirrors on the wall. Add to that toilets which have been decorated by local artists and the overall effect feels pleasingly eccentric. Visit at night and the place generates a sleazy decadence that’s just ripe for beery whisperings or enjoy the night air under one of their heated lamps. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 44, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 16 72, www.blekitnypudel.pl. Open 10:00 - 05:00. GW

LADS  The secret to surviving a nightout in the Tri-city is pace. Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and many bars and clubs stay open until dawn. And gentlemen be par ticularly careful if you somehow find yourself in a strip club. club . Some clubs in Poland hit the headlines after a string of customers accused them of charging astronomical amounts to their credit cards. Be careful. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 65

Nightlife

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 3 SIOSTRY A local favourite and as the name suggests a cafe/bar/club run by 3 sisters, owners no doubt of the dozens of shoes nailed to the ceiling. These ladies know how to run a bar and the loyal clientele keep coming back to cram onto the tiny floor to dance the night away to classics from across the decades. A great spot to spend the evening where the opportunity to interact with the locals seems to be part of the design. For a bit of local flavour, ask Beata for a shot of her strawberry flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 00 00, www.3siostry.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 03:00. UGW

AMSTERDAM BAR BEER & BAGEL

’ ’s

ear r  ea

r  hot win wine i  e an

Local bottled brews have made a huge leap forward in the last couple of years thanks in no small part to places like this which are prepared to snub the major brewers and stock independent brewers in depth (over 180 bottled and draft beers available). The broadcast of live sports means it’s a good option for watching the match with a beer as well. QB-4, ul. Garbary 6/7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 717 29 39. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. UGW

e r are he orde orderr of t he he day . Give Give hem a go.

 There was a time when Gdansk’s nightlife seemed a bit limited but that’s changing. While Sopot is still recognised as the Tri-city’s party town there are more than enough good bars and the odd club which will keep you in the old town. That said Sopot is the centre of Tri-city with most of the action centred around the main drag, Monte Cassino where most clubs will apply a cover charge - expect to pay 10-30zł to get into the better ones. Gdynia Gdynia has  has a fair selection of options and while most of the nightlife is concentrated near the sea around Al. Jana Pawła and Skwer Kościuszki, Kościuszki, there are a bunch of less rowdy bars worth searching out. LOCAL  Try the beers brewed on-site at Brovarnia  or the locally Brovarnia or brewed juice at Flisak 76  76  and Amsterdam Bar. Bar. For a taste of something very local and a little bit odd, squeeze yourself into Vinifera Vinifera a  a mandatory fixture on any decent pub crawl. Sopot has a reputation, amongst others, as being the seaside capital for the country ’s artist crows and their HQ was famously Spatif . We’re no great fans but there probably isn’t a nightspot which is more ‘Sopot’. Another legendary venue, this time in Gdynia is Desdemona Desdemona,, a magnet for anyone with literary and artistic pretensions. For a taste of typical local nightlife culture, try one of the ‘Polish Snack & Shots’bars Shots’bars we list. COUPLES For something really picturesque take an evening stroll down ul. Mariacka and stop for a nightcap in Cafe Kamienica or Kamienica  or a glass of wine in Literacka Literacka.. In Sopot try the Blue Poodle, Poodle, aka Błękitny Pudel, an atmospheric,

antiquarian bar which comes into its element as evening draws in. Or for a glass of wine, head to Cyrano et Roxane,, a rail-side cottage overseen by a Frenchman. Roxane You don’t have to be on a hot date to enjoy Srodmiescie which offers a good selection of food to help your date go well. SPECIAL Go five star and take drinks in the Hilton’s rooftop bar High 5  as you stare out over the river. Alternatively in Sopot the Sofitel Grand has Grand has hosted names as diverse as Omar Sharif and Marlene Dietrich over the years. Follow in their footsteps by taking cocktails in the hotel bar, Le Bar with gardens leading to the nearby beach. ALL NIGHT Sopot is the capital of the all-nighter. Greet dawn on the beach by drinking in Atelier Atelier   or mix with the fashionista at Sopot’s newest club Libation Libation.. Step inside the city’s signature building, the Crooked House, House , and take your pick from the selection of late night bars and clubs found upstairs there including the recommended Dream Club. Club .

vine.co/inyourpocket BIAŁE WINO I OWOCE Having built a good reputation in Sopot as one of the better Snacks & Shots bars in the city, Biale Wino & Owoce upped sticks and moved to Gdynia where they’ve re-opened in larger more attractive premises with an expanded offer.  They still do the classic Polish snack food of herring or tartar with a raw egg washed down with shots of vodka at remarkably cheap prices, but you now visit during the day for a choice of coffee, tea, cake, sandwiches and a choice of mains including chicken breast with mozzarella. What was once a place we recommended as a good start or end to an evening on the town is now recommended whatever the hour.QN/O-1, ul. Świętojańska 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 511 97 56 87, www.bialewinoiowoce.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. GW

BŁĘKITNY PUDEL Possibly the most underrated bar in town especially considering it sits in the centre of the city ’s nightlife quietly minding its own business. The Blue Poodle is a bit like entering an old living room (one with cobbled flooring mind) filled with springy armchairs, Grandfather clocks and old pictures and mirrors on the wall. Add to that toilets which have been decorated by local artists and the overall effect feels pleasingly eccentric. Visit at night and the place generates a sleazy decadence that’s just ripe for beery whisperings or enjoy the night air under one of their heated lamps. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 44, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 16 72, www.blekitnypudel.pl. Open 10:00 - 05:00. GW

LADS  The secret to surviving a nightout in the Tri-city is pace. Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and many bars and clubs stay open until dawn. And gentlemen be par ticularly careful if you somehow find yourself in a strip club. club . Some clubs in Poland hit the headlines after a string of customers accused them of charging astronomical amounts to their credit cards. Be careful.

64 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

December 2015 - April 2016 65

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Nightlife  Artistic interior,  atmospheric music, delicious drinks and great Polish cuisine

Nightlife BROVARNIA

DONEGAL

Quite possibly our favourite microbrewery in Poland, which is by no means the empty award you might think. The beers - including an award winning dark beer are brewed on-site - are faultless, while the smoking ban does its bit to really exaggerate the pungent smell of malt and hops. Found in a restored granary building, this pub features stout wooden fittings, black and white pics of dockside Danzig, and small little hatches that allow beams of sunlight to slant inside. Even better, if your head goes boom after test-driving their beer menu then just check into the excellent Hotel Gdańsk upstairs.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. UE GW

As authentic an Irish pub in terms of appearance as you’re likely to find in Europe, Donegal is a long-term labour of love for its owners who clearly appreciate there’s more to an Irish pub that simply getting some beers in and sticking an ‘Irish Pub’ sign up outside.  There’s a healthy selection of whiskey and a nonetoo shabby collection of whisky as well. The Guinness is as good a pint as you’ll get in Poland and a warm (sometimes very warm) atmosphere makes it the kind of place you can pass a few hours gently tipping the pints and sipping the whiskies. There put on live music and there’s also a couple of screens to catch the match. One last point of interest is their English-language quiz night (Thursdays at 20:00) and their Facebook page is one worth keeping an eye on as they post in English as well.QN-1, ul. Zgoda 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 46 23. Open 15:00 - 03:00. GW

BUDDHA LOUNGE

ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 44, Sopot tel. +48 58 551 16 72, mob. +48 535 639 636 [email protected],facebook/blekitnypudel

HOT BEER?  Though the Polish winter winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ wino ’ – or mulled wine – as you’ll notice by the stands selling cups of it during December’s Christmas fairs (p.11). Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!  66 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

One of the few decent pre-club spots in the old town with a midnight blue design and some velvety seats. A great (seasonal) terrace on the main street is a great place to sit back with a beer while the food (see restaurants) is some of the best ethnic cuisine in the city. A cunning piece of design also means that the bar is smoking which makes it unique for the centre of town. Friendly staff, late opening hours and a laid back atmosphere make this worth a stop on your way around the old town. QB-4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44, www.buddhalounge.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. UXW

COCTAIL BAR MAX SOPOT Stock up on aspirin, you’ll be needing it. Featuring a remarkable choice of booze this air-conned beach bar has spirits from everywhere stacked around a central display by the bar: the higher you look the more premium they are. The standout feature, however, is the fruit cocktail menu - tons of fresh fruit squashed and squeezed into rainbow coloured alcoholic and non-alcoholic bliss. The artistry involved does lead to wait-times, but the young, hip staff make it worth the while. A great place to kick off the night before heading into one of the neighbouring clubs. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 691 13 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 09:00 - 05:00. UGW

CZARNA WOŁGA A sinister legend is attached to the name of this place - Black Volga the Soviet limousine. The car of the legend can be seen painted on one of the walls of this trendy, relaxed bar which is decorated with all sorts of Communist era paraphernalia and is set in a quiet street minutes from the main drag. Drink a great choice of regional beers in the company of a laid back crowd and wonderfully friendly bar staff while music videos or the match are projected onto the wall of one of the two rooms. As good a place as any in Sopot to mix with the locals. QL-4, ul. Jagiełły 6/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 789 08 10 03, www.czarnawolgasopot.pl. Open 16:00 02:00. GW gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Coctail Bar Max Sopot Ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3 Sopot tel. +48 691 130 000 [email protected] www.Barmax.pl www.domwhisky.pl

 t  y  f r  i t  t s  L e g e n d a  c  f r u i t  n d  e x o t i c  t h  r e s h  m a d e  w i t

DWIE ZMIANY A bit bar, a bit cafe, a bit art gallery, a bit good really. This is a magnet for Sopot’s hipster crowd attracted as much by the cool reputation it’s built up as for anything else. We like it because of the Rewolucję Warminskie, a really hoppy beer from a brewery in neighbouring Warmia which they have on tap. Food also available although you have to ask the bar staff what, if anything is available to order. If you’re doing a crawl of Monciak’s bars, this is one worth stopping off at. QL-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 31, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 380 21 27, www. dwiezmiany.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 01:00. TEGW

 y p e s o f  d i f f e  e n t  0 d  w o r l d  O v e r 7 0 0  e w  d t h e  n  u  o  r  a  f r o  a l c o h o l

FLISAK 76 A popular bar frequented by a friendly crowd on a less touristy, central Gdańsk street. Not much to look at, the reason to head to this underground bar is the choice of bottled Polish beer and an extensive list of old-school cocktails. We’ve long recommended Sopot as the place to spend evenings to experience bars like this, but Flisak has re-dressed the balance as witnessed by the loyal band of local regulars. A must-do on any old town pub crawl. Q C-4, ul. Chlebnicka 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 99 48 54, www.flisak76.pl. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. GW

HARD ROCK CAFE Hard Rock are known for the food, cocktails and rock memorabilia but the best ones we’ve been in are the ones who remember they got into this game originally because of music. And when we say music we of course mean rock music. There’s a small stage for large performances, a decent sound system and a prime location making this a popular stop. Check out their Facebook page for what’s on. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www. hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. UGW facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

  

                               

 

December 2015 - April 2016 67

Nightlife  Artistic interior,  atmospheric music, delicious drinks and great Polish cuisine

Nightlife BROVARNIA

DONEGAL

Quite possibly our favourite microbrewery in Poland, which is by no means the empty award you might think. The beers - including an award winning dark beer are brewed on-site - are faultless, while the smoking ban does its bit to really exaggerate the pungent smell of malt and hops. Found in a restored granary building, this pub features stout wooden fittings, black and white pics of dockside Danzig, and small little hatches that allow beams of sunlight to slant inside. Even better, if your head goes boom after test-driving their beer menu then just check into the excellent Hotel Gdańsk upstairs.QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 19 70, www.brovarnia.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. UE GW

As authentic an Irish pub in terms of appearance as you’re likely to find in Europe, Donegal is a long-term labour of love for its owners who clearly appreciate there’s more to an Irish pub that simply getting some beers in and sticking an ‘Irish Pub’ sign up outside.  There’s a healthy selection of whiskey and a nonetoo shabby collection of whisky as well. The Guinness is as good a pint as you’ll get in Poland and a warm (sometimes very warm) atmosphere makes it the kind of place you can pass a few hours gently tipping the pints and sipping the whiskies. There put on live music and there’s also a couple of screens to catch the match. One last point of interest is their English-language quiz night (Thursdays at 20:00) and their Facebook page is one worth keeping an eye on as they post in English as well.QN-1, ul. Zgoda 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 46 23. Open 15:00 - 03:00. GW

BUDDHA LOUNGE

ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 44, Sopot tel. +48 58 551 16 72, mob. +48 535 639 636 [email protected],facebook/blekitnypudel

HOT BEER?  Though the Polish winter winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ wino ’ – or mulled wine – as you’ll notice by the stands selling cups of it during December’s Christmas fairs (p.11). Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! 

One of the few decent pre-club spots in the old town with a midnight blue design and some velvety seats. A great (seasonal) terrace on the main street is a great place to sit back with a beer while the food (see restaurants) is some of the best ethnic cuisine in the city. A cunning piece of design also means that the bar is smoking which makes it unique for the centre of town. Friendly staff, late opening hours and a laid back atmosphere make this worth a stop on your way around the old town. QB-4, ul. Długa 18/21, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 00 44, www.buddhalounge.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. UXW

COCTAIL BAR MAX SOPOT Stock up on aspirin, you’ll be needing it. Featuring a remarkable choice of booze this air-conned beach bar has spirits from everywhere stacked around a central display by the bar: the higher you look the more premium they are. The standout feature, however, is the fruit cocktail menu - tons of fresh fruit squashed and squeezed into rainbow coloured alcoholic and non-alcoholic bliss. The artistry involved does lead to wait-times, but the young, hip staff make it worth the while. A great place to kick off the night before heading into one of the neighbouring clubs. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 691 13 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 09:00 - 05:00. UGW

CZARNA WOŁGA A sinister legend is attached to the name of this place - Black Volga the Soviet limousine. The car of the legend can be seen painted on one of the walls of this trendy, relaxed bar which is decorated with all sorts of Communist era paraphernalia and is set in a quiet street minutes from the main drag. Drink a great choice of regional beers in the company of a laid back crowd and wonderfully friendly bar staff while music videos or the match are projected onto the wall of one of the two rooms. As good a place as any in Sopot to mix with the locals. QL-4, ul. Jagiełły 6/2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 789 08 10 03, www.czarnawolgasopot.pl. Open 16:00 02:00. GW

66 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Coctail Bar Max Sopot Ul. Grunwaldzka 1-3 Sopot tel. +48 691 130 000 [email protected] www.Barmax.pl www.domwhisky.pl

 t  y  f r  i t  t s  L e g e n d a  c  f r u i t  n d  e x o t i c  t h  r e s h  m a d e  w i t

DWIE ZMIANY A bit bar, a bit cafe, a bit art gallery, a bit good really. This is a magnet for Sopot’s hipster crowd attracted as much by the cool reputation it’s built up as for anything else. We like it because of the Rewolucję Warminskie, a really hoppy beer from a brewery in neighbouring Warmia which they have on tap. Food also available although you have to ask the bar staff what, if anything is available to order. If you’re doing a crawl of Monciak’s bars, this is one worth stopping off at. QL-4, ul. Bohaterow Monte Cassino 31, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 380 21 27, www. dwiezmiany.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 01:00. TEGW

 y p e s o f  d i f f e  e n t  0 d  w o r l d  O v e r 7 0 0  e w  d t h e  n  u  o  r  a  f r o  a l c o h o l

FLISAK 76 A popular bar frequented by a friendly crowd on a less touristy, central Gdańsk street. Not much to look at, the reason to head to this underground bar is the choice of bottled Polish beer and an extensive list of old-school cocktails. We’ve long recommended Sopot as the place to spend evenings to experience bars like this, but Flisak has re-dressed the balance as witnessed by the loyal band of local regulars. A must-do on any old town pub crawl. Q C-4, ul. Chlebnicka 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 509 99 48 54, www.flisak76.pl. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. GW

HARD ROCK CAFE Hard Rock are known for the food, cocktails and rock memorabilia but the best ones we’ve been in are the ones who remember they got into this game originally because of music. And when we say music we of course mean rock music. There’s a small stage for large performances, a decent sound system and a prime location making this a popular stop. Check out their Facebook page for what’s on. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35/38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www. hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. UGW

  

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December 2015 - April 2016 67

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Nightlife  ADULT  ADUL T ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT  There has has been a marked increase in the number of strip clubs opening in prime city centre locations throughout Poland over the last couple of years. This has resulted in the main streets and squares of Poland’s major tourist cities now seeing young women handing out leaflets to strip clubs and approaching any male who appears to be foreign, and not obviously in the company of a wife or girlfriend, with an invitation to visit their ‘Gentleman’s Club’. The situation has turned an evening stroll around Sopot’s Bohaterow Monte Cassino for instance into a pretty unpleasant experience. On a recent evening walk down the hill in the company of three visiting male teachers from the UK, we were approached nine times in the matter of less than five minutes. ‘Tacky’as ‘Tacky’as one of the group described it. With three strip clubs on Monte Cassino itself, the competition to attract customers is fierce but the local government seem powerless in preventing these clubs opening in the centre of the city in the first place and then from stopping people having strip club leaflets thrust into their hands along the street. It’s not just Sopot – a new club has opened up right in the heart of Gdansk’s old town on Dlugi Targ while elsewhere in the country strip joints have opened in the heart of what are the most photogenic places on the tourist trail. Up until the autumn one network of clubs seemed to be attracting more criticism than most. The Cocomo chain, which had quickly expanded throughout Poland, found itself regularly accused of stealing money from unsuspecting clientele by overcharging or by running up bills of thousands of zloty on their credit cards without the owner’s approval. The group were not found guilty by the authorities of any of the accusations against them, with one Poznan prosecutor claiming they had no case to answer as the owner of a card charged with nearly 1 million zloty in one evening (over 200,000 Euros) was responsible for the amount as he must have used his PIN code to authorise the various transactions. The man claimed he couldn’t remember anything after having a drink in the club and awoke the following evening in his hotel room with his pockets full of credit card receipts.   The Cocomo group announced in September that they were to close their network with immediate effect because of the negative publicity. Since that time many of the venues occupied by Cocomo, including the one next to the Multikino in Sopot, have opened as strip clubs. The Sopot venue is now called Kittens. While we do not advise against visiting a strip club in Poland, we do recommend you make sure you check what you are paying for and use common sense regardless of the club you are visiting. In the meantime we hope that the local government find a way to stop something as simple as an evening walk in the town becoming a poor advert for the town. 68 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Nightlife HIGH 5 Hitting the fifth floor bar of the Hilton isn’t unlike walking on-set of a Ralph Lauren ad. This place is sheer class, with a wood-deck terrace offering rooftop views of Gdańsk from white wicker loungers. Don’t be surprised to find hotel guests shuffling around in snow coloured dressing gowns, they’re fresh from dipping in the rooftop po ol. Surprisingly, somewhat, prices are kept at an affordable level, and there’s a small glass-encased bar for colder evenings. QA-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 50, www. hiltongdansk.pl. Open 12:30 - 20:30. UGW

IRISH PUB PIWNICA  This subterranean bar will be appreciated by Doctor Who fans. What appears to be a street level hut is just the entrance to a vaulted cellar with a well-stocked bar, a decent bar menu, televisions always ready for whatever sport you might want to watch and one of the friendliest, if toughest looking, landlords in the city. Stop by once and he’ll never forget your face or your order. Not at all touristy despite the A1 and a bit location, it’s one of those bars worth a stop on a crawl around town. QB-4, ul. Garbary 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 91 39, www.pubirish.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. JGBW

KANDELABRY Kandelabry is not only a staff favourite, it’s also the place hostel staff and Gdynians-in-the-know will send you. The chandelier made of a hodge-podge of bottles lights the way to a beery wonderland of impressive imports (the Belgian selection alone has 23 choices) and deeper pulls from Poland than the typical Żywiec and Tyskie options available elsewhere. Dig into a bowl of peanuts with a fresh lager at Kandelabry and you’ll easily feel like a local. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 509 9 1 98 84, www. kandelabry.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. UGBW

LAWENDOWA 8 A converted corner shop in what’s become Gdansk’s Hipster Central. You might ask why on first entering - a design incorporating some leftover black paint, a bar, some furniture nicked off a scrap heap and what looked like a 1980s Space Invader machine hardly scream interior design award nominee. We’re guessing the crowds that pour out onto the street are drawn here by the choice of locally brewed ales which include Wing of Hop and Rowing Jack and are reminiscent of British ales in colour and taste. The rest seem to be drawn here to hang out in what people have dubbed ‘L osiem’. QC-3, ul. Lawendowa 8 (entrance from ul. Straganiarska), tel. (+48) 500 13 28 97. Open 09:00 - 01:00. GW

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Buddha Lounge Restaurant & Bar The longest opening hours in the old town One of the very few places in the old town with a smoking area

brewery. Keep a particular eye for their quiches (which they call tarts); the vodka shot mixes and the statue outside of Poland’s most famous communist era spy. If you want to start a conversation ask one of the Poles if they consider him a hero or a traitor.QN-2, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 733 97 23 25. Open 16:00 - 02:00. USW

PUB POLSKIE KINO Granted this is another of the cheap beer and shot places but this one gets mark for trying that bit harder. For one it’s not just cheap beer and vodka that you can buy for a few coins, but also 8 flavours of Polish nalewki  which  which are spirits flavoured over time with fruit or herbs. As the name suggests the bar is themed on Polish film though if you’re visiting from abroad you won’t know most if any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of one of the 5 nalewki  and   and within no time at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski or the Polish comic actors depicted on the walls. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. GW

RED LIGHT PUB

NONSENS A very popular bar with a young, happy crowd who come to relax in this smart and very laid-back bar just off Gdynia’s main Switeojanska street. The two-sided menu card list a range of drinks and snacks with an impressive list of Polish craft beers including the locally produced Ratownicze from the Puck gdansk.inyourpocket.com

We’ve been fans of the people behind Red Light since they opened in smaller premises on Chlebniczka some years back and were one of the pioneers of promoting local bottled beers. Frequented by locals who make you feel right at home the place has a great atmosphere with a small dancefloor in the basement and a mismatch of facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

seating upstairs. Search it out on a backstreet between Piwna and Dluga as it’s one of our favourite city centre nightspots.QC-4, ul. Piwna 28/31 (entrance on ul. Kaletnicza), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 511 53 86 74. Open 17:0 0 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PUGBW

RETROMANIAK KLUBO GALERIA Discreetly hidden somewhere behind the train station, seek this one out if you like your dive bars to ooze style. As eclectic as they come, Retromaniak’s vintage furnishings range from twin beds to theatre seats, and the decor is an appealing push/pull of glamour and garbage, featuring dancing poles and disco balls against a ceiling covered in aluminum foil, and a shaven-headed barmaid serving drinks on a counter made of old VHS cassettes against a backdrop promotional photos of early film stars. There’s no espresso machine, but there is a great selection of regional beers, old Polish films screening silently on the wall and a scattered playlist of forgotten pop hits and ethnic rock that seems as cobbled together as the DIY decor. Probably the most gay-friendly venue in town as well. QL-4, Al. Niepodległości 771a, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 89 84 23. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.UGW

ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE A very attractive cafe/bar tucked away in a central Gdynia street which attracts a friendly, fashionable crowd with its relaxed atmosphere, tasteful design, original menu (featuring burgers and sandwiches)and a well-stocked bar. December 2015 - April 2016 69

Nightlife  ADULT  ADUL T ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT  There has has been a marked increase in the number of strip clubs opening in prime city centre locations throughout Poland over the last couple of years. This has resulted in the main streets and squares of Poland’s major tourist cities now seeing young women handing out leaflets to strip clubs and approaching any male who appears to be foreign, and not obviously in the company of a wife or girlfriend, with an invitation to visit their ‘Gentleman’s Club’. The situation has turned an evening stroll around Sopot’s Bohaterow Monte Cassino for instance into a pretty unpleasant experience. On a recent evening walk down the hill in the company of three visiting male teachers from the UK, we were approached nine times in the matter of less than five minutes. ‘Tacky’as ‘Tacky’as one of the group described it. With three strip clubs on Monte Cassino itself, the competition to attract customers is fierce but the local government seem powerless in preventing these clubs opening in the centre of the city in the first place and then from stopping people having strip club leaflets thrust into their hands along the street. It’s not just Sopot – a new club has opened up right in the heart of Gdansk’s old town on Dlugi Targ while elsewhere in the country strip joints have opened in the heart of what are the most photogenic places on the tourist trail. Up until the autumn one network of clubs seemed to be attracting more criticism than most. The Cocomo chain, which had quickly expanded throughout Poland, found itself regularly accused of stealing money from unsuspecting clientele by overcharging or by running up bills of thousands of zloty on their credit cards without the owner’s approval. The group were not found guilty by the authorities of any of the accusations against them, with one Poznan prosecutor claiming they had no case to answer as the owner of a card charged with nearly 1 million zloty in one evening (over 200,000 Euros) was responsible for the amount as he must have used his PIN code to authorise the various transactions. The man claimed he couldn’t remember anything after having a drink in the club and awoke the following evening in his hotel room with his pockets full of credit card receipts.   The Cocomo group announced in September that they were to close their network with immediate effect because of the negative publicity. Since that time many of the venues occupied by Cocomo, including the one next to the Multikino in Sopot, have opened as strip clubs. The Sopot venue is now called Kittens. While we do not advise against visiting a strip club in Poland, we do recommend you make sure you check what you are paying for and use common sense regardless of the club you are visiting. In the meantime we hope that the local government find a way to stop something as simple as an evening walk in the town becoming a poor advert for the town.

Nightlife HIGH 5 Hitting the fifth floor bar of the Hilton isn’t unlike walking on-set of a Ralph Lauren ad. This place is sheer class, with a wood-deck terrace offering rooftop views of Gdańsk from white wicker loungers. Don’t be surprised to find hotel guests shuffling around in snow coloured dressing gowns, they’re fresh from dipping in the rooftop po ol. Surprisingly, somewhat, prices are kept at an affordable level, and there’s a small glass-encased bar for colder evenings. QA-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 74 50, www. hiltongdansk.pl. Open 12:30 - 20:30. UGW

IRISH PUB PIWNICA  This subterranean bar will be appreciated by Doctor Who fans. What appears to be a street level hut is just the entrance to a vaulted cellar with a well-stocked bar, a decent bar menu, televisions always ready for whatever sport you might want to watch and one of the friendliest, if toughest looking, landlords in the city. Stop by once and he’ll never forget your face or your order. Not at all touristy despite the A1 and a bit location, it’s one of those bars worth a stop on a crawl around town. QB-4, ul. Garbary 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 91 39, www.pubirish.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. JGBW

KANDELABRY Kandelabry is not only a staff favourite, it’s also the place hostel staff and Gdynians-in-the-know will send you. The chandelier made of a hodge-podge of bottles lights the way to a beery wonderland of impressive imports (the Belgian selection alone has 23 choices) and deeper pulls from Poland than the typical Żywiec and Tyskie options available elsewhere. Dig into a bowl of peanuts with a fresh lager at Kandelabry and you’ll easily feel like a local. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 509 9 1 98 84, www. kandelabry.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. UGBW

LAWENDOWA 8 A converted corner shop in what’s become Gdansk’s Hipster Central. You might ask why on first entering - a design incorporating some leftover black paint, a bar, some furniture nicked off a scrap heap and what looked like a 1980s Space Invader machine hardly scream interior design award nominee. We’re guessing the crowds that pour out onto the street are drawn here by the choice of locally brewed ales which include Wing of Hop and Rowing Jack and are reminiscent of British ales in colour and taste. The rest seem to be drawn here to hang out in what people have dubbed ‘L osiem’. QC-3, ul. Lawendowa 8 (entrance from ul. Straganiarska), tel. (+48) 500 13 28 97. Open 09:00 - 01:00. GW

Buddha Lounge Restaurant & Bar The longest opening hours in the old town One of the very few places in the old town with a smoking area

brewery. Keep a particular eye for their quiches (which they call tarts); the vodka shot mixes and the statue outside of Poland’s most famous communist era spy. If you want to start a conversation ask one of the Poles if they consider him a hero or a traitor.QN-2, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 733 97 23 25. Open 16:00 - 02:00. USW

PUB POLSKIE KINO Granted this is another of the cheap beer and shot places but this one gets mark for trying that bit harder. For one it’s not just cheap beer and vodka that you can buy for a few coins, but also 8 flavours of Polish nalewki  which  which are spirits flavoured over time with fruit or herbs. As the name suggests the bar is themed on Polish film though if you’re visiting from abroad you won’t know most if any of the references. Don’t panic. Buy your neighbours a couple of shots of one of the 5 nalewki  and   and within no time at all you’ll be up to speed on Wajda, Kieślowski or the Polish comic actors depicted on the walls. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 97, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 506 40 77 18. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. GW

RED LIGHT PUB

NONSENS A very popular bar with a young, happy crowd who come to relax in this smart and very laid-back bar just off Gdynia’s main Switeojanska street. The two-sided menu card list a range of drinks and snacks with an impressive list of Polish craft beers including the locally produced Ratownicze from the Puck

68 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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gdansk.inyourpocket.com

We’ve been fans of the people behind Red Light since they opened in smaller premises on Chlebniczka some years back and were one of the pioneers of promoting local bottled beers. Frequented by locals who make you feel right at home the place has a great atmosphere with a small dancefloor in the basement and a mismatch of

seating upstairs. Search it out on a backstreet between Piwna and Dluga as it’s one of our favourite city centre nightspots.QC-4, ul. Piwna 28/31 (entrance on ul. Kaletnicza), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 511 53 86 74. Open 17:0 0 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PUGBW

RETROMANIAK KLUBO GALERIA Discreetly hidden somewhere behind the train station, seek this one out if you like your dive bars to ooze style. As eclectic as they come, Retromaniak’s vintage furnishings range from twin beds to theatre seats, and the decor is an appealing push/pull of glamour and garbage, featuring dancing poles and disco balls against a ceiling covered in aluminum foil, and a shaven-headed barmaid serving drinks on a counter made of old VHS cassettes against a backdrop promotional photos of early film stars. There’s no espresso machine, but there is a great selection of regional beers, old Polish films screening silently on the wall and a scattered playlist of forgotten pop hits and ethnic rock that seems as cobbled together as the DIY decor. Probably the most gay-friendly venue in town as well. QL-4, Al. Niepodległości 771a, Sopot, tel. (+48) 512 89 84 23. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.UGW

ŚRÓDMIEŚCIE A very attractive cafe/bar tucked away in a central Gdynia street which attracts a friendly, fashionable crowd with its relaxed atmosphere, tasteful design, original menu (featuring burgers and sandwiches)and a well-stocked bar. December 2015 - April 2016 69

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Nightlife LOCAL BEER Polish vodka, great, Polish beer, not so great. Polis  That’s not a rare opinion, and one frequently  That frequently espoused by the staff of In Your Pocket. With esp the big brands coming from Silesia and Poznan o what about local beer? There is hhope. First of all there are the in-house bbrews at Brovarnia, one of the country’s bbest microbreweries. And then there is the discovery of a rather smashing local bbrewery called Amber Browar. The secret of their success? Aside from a master brewer who is clearly a genius they use only the best ingredients – hops from Lublin, fermentation yeast from Munich and absolutely no preservatives, additives or corn. That’s why you’ll still feel on top of the world following an absolute skinful. So what brands to watch for then? Żywe looks lik e it might well become the offi cial brand of In Your Pocket, though do keep an eye open for Zlote Lwy, Kozlak and Amber Classic, while the Johannes beer introduced to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Hevelius’ birth proved so popular that they have have decided to keep brewing it. Find the Amber Brewery represented in Amsterdam Bar & Bagels, Flisak and the Goldwasser or Targ Rybny restaurants.

BUNKIER KLUBOGALERIA  Jaw-dropping. On ul. Olejarna stands a sixstorey, re-enforced concrete cube built as an air-raid shelter, bunker and antiaircraft battery by the Germans during WWII. It now operates as one of the most visually stunning clubs in the country. Get past the rather large, black-suited chaps on the door and you’ll be met with the original corridors flanked by 1.2 metre thick walls which lead into a labyrinth of bars, dancefloors, seating areas and some of the most fantastic toilets we’ve ever seen. Each level is different with our favourite being the caged seating featuring military bunks and for some reason an electric chair on level 3 or 4 (or 5 we can’t be sure in the light of day).  The bars are well-stocked and manned by friendly staff; prices are surprisingly low and the mix of original features (lighting, exposed pipes) and artistic touches will have you reaching regularly for your camera phone. Once you’ve finished looking around you’ll find it’s not a bad club either. QC-3, ul. Olejarna 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 531 71 12 07, www.bunkierclub.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. EXW 70 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Nightlife It’s the kind of place you could spend the evening chatting away with friends or a quiet hour in the afternoon with a book and a coffee. Thoroughly recommendable and a great addition to the Gdynia scene. QN-1, ul. Mściwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 48 87 61, www.bistrosrodmiescie. pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. TGS W

SZCZĘŚLIWEGO NOWEGO JORKU  Taking the name of a recommended film about Polish immigrants in New York (playing on the Polish for ‘Happy New Year’), the friendly father and son team that run the place have created a more upmarket version of the Polish Snacks & Shots bar while keeping prices low. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 19, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 61 61 90. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. UGW

TAPAS DE RUCOLA Combining the trendiness of Poland’s current ‘przekąski zakąski’ phenomenon with the exoticness of Spanish Andalusia, this casual tapas bar has quickly developed into one of Sopot’s most fashionable destinations. Serving an array of Andalusiainspired and authentic small tasting dishes, all for 10zł each, a friendly mix of customers nibble away at chorizo sausages and Serrano ham while slugging down Spanish wines and the excellent, local Złote Lwy (Golden Lions) or Zywe beer on draft. With a colourful interior of imitation-Picasso mural art and a carefree atmosphere, Tapas really packs out after siesta, particularly on weekends when the party lasts long into the morning.QM-4, ul. Pułaskiego 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 55 01, www.tapassopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (10-60zł). 6GSW

CLUBS BUFFET CLUB Found inside the derelict remains of the former Lenin Shipyards, head towards the old blocks of flats (ul. Robotnicza). There you’ll find Buffet (pronounce “boo-fett”by the locals, not “buff-fay”like the smorgasbord) located in the Wyspa Institute of Art building. The major pull here though are the truly memorable nights which feature Polish and foreign DJs playing anything from indie to drum n’b ass. Do expect a décor that reflects the post-communist fate of the shipyards and nights that finish in daylight. Do not expect Beyonce or bathrooms with toilet paper. QB-1, ul. Doki 1/145b, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 534 70 90 40, www.buffet.com. pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. XW

SPATIF

THE OLD GDAŃSK   The old town has been crying out for a place like this - Old Gdansk Pub really ought to be called Slightly Older and more mature Gdansk pub to reflect the clientele. Live music pulls them into this small space where concerts featuring Jazz, Blues, Rock or sometimes Folk music are held every Friday and Saturday (some weeks also on Thursday and Sunday) from 19:00 to 22:00 and they pull in a variety of local and foreign guests happy to relax with a glass of wine, one of the 30 bottled beers, a shot from the generous selection of spirits or some of the simple bar food as their moods are mellowed by the music. QC-4, ul. Piwna 56/57, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 694 22 51 00, www.gdansk-beerpub. com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. EGW

 The rapid expansion in the nightlife o ptions in town has seen the overall level move quite sharply towards ‘tacky’ ‘tacky’ so it’s encouraging to see a place prepared to do more than cheap alcohol. To find Wtedy (Then) head round the back of a bank, a fact that itself lends it an ‘in-the-know’ in-the-know’ kind of feel. Inside the crowd is a little older than on the ‘strip’(but not as older as the dollies at the coat check) while a vinylspinning DJ, excellent bar and limited seating mean the place can’t help but dance. QL-4, ul. Kosciuszki 16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 791 37 77 38, www.wtedy.co. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 05:00. XW

TEKSTYLIA

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 The Crooked in the building’s name refers to the architecture, not to how most of the clientele look as they leave, although it could. You can knock back shots in exchange for a handful of coins downstairs, sip cocktails with a good-looking crowd or dance the night away while dancers swing above your head on a trapeze on the upper levels.

CZEKOLADA An impressive 2 floor venue featuring DJs and bars on both levels from a group we’ve come into contact with in other cities around the country. Downstairs, find a lounge area while upstairs expect full-on parties with a more upbeat selection of tunes coming from behind a stage located DJ deck. All the right ingredients to attract a blingy and attractive crowd, and it’s the kind of club we could see a Premier League footballer coming to pick up his teammate’s’s girlfriend. Dress up and head into the Multikino teammate cinema complex (ground floor) to see for yourself. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 505 58 53 60, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. UXW One of the enduring legends of Sopot, though utterly different from the Spatif of legend. The design is still the same - eclectic art and an avant garde style - the only thing that’s changed is the people who visit. What was once a den of beatniks and thesps has morphed into, dare we say it, the sort of place where plastic comes first; be it plastic boobs or the platinum card. Much of the crowd is markedly ‘older’and we’re sure we’ve seen a few of those who used to talk revolution now relaxing here after a hard week in Brussels. It remains, surprisingly, hugely popular and as such has a strict door policy - whether you make it in or not, watch for the stairs. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 26 83, www.spatif.sopot.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. X

 This popular bar has certainly got the locals talking and drinking. Few if any places have been busier during Gdańsk’s close season, and you’ll find no shortage o f good lookers both behind and in front of the bar. Big, large windows make it perfect for people spotting, while inside some industrial touches sit comfortably with whimsical touches such as wire-framed corsets and some design mag extras. Highly recommended for both pre-club drinks or afternoon chillout. QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 24:00. UGW

CROOKED HOUSE

WTEDY

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Cocktail hour at Zła Kobieta

DREAM CLUB  There’s wow factor factor galore inside inside Dream Club, butunless you take your fashion tips from Maxim and Vogue there’s little chance of seeing it. Door selection is tough; for lads a logo on the shirt and some sunglasses on your head work miracles, while for girls a pneumatic set of knockers is guaranteed to do the trick. The rewards are ample, with top DJs, a top lighting and sound setup and a good-looking crowd. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 50 08 00, www.dreamclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. UX

NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Druga Nozke literally means ‘For the other leg’ which is a Polish phrase meaning something like ‘one for the road’. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They have Tyskie on tap for 5zl and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including calamari, nuggets and pierogi. For something different ask for a ‘kiwówka’ ‘kiwówka’ - a kiwi flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85, www. NaDrugaNozke.pl. Open 16:00 - 04:50. UXW

ZŁA KOBIETA A great looking pre-club spot found up the stairs in the Crooked House. The cocktails come prepared by pleasant English-speaking staff and while this is a great place for pre-club drinks you can also find yourself trapped as the crowd kick off on the small dancefloor. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 606 85 39 30, www.zlakobieta.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. UXW December 2015 - April 2016 71

Nightlife LOCAL BEER Polish vodka, great, Polish beer, not so great. Polis  That’s not a rare opinion, and one frequently  That frequently espoused by the staff of In Your Pocket. With esp the big brands coming from Silesia and Poznan o what about local beer? There is hhope. First of all there are the in-house bbrews at Brovarnia, one of the country’s bbest microbreweries. And then there is the discovery of a rather smashing local bbrewery called Amber Browar. The secret of their success? Aside from a master brewer who is clearly a genius they use only the best ingredients – hops from Lublin, fermentation yeast from Munich and absolutely no preservatives, additives or corn. That’s why you’ll still feel on top of the world following an absolute skinful. So what brands to watch for then? Żywe looks lik e it might well become the offi cial brand of In Your Pocket, though do keep an eye open for Zlote Lwy, Kozlak and Amber Classic, while the Johannes beer introduced to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Hevelius’ birth proved so popular that they have have decided to keep brewing it. Find the Amber Brewery represented in Amsterdam Bar & Bagels, Flisak and the Goldwasser or Targ Rybny restaurants.

BUNKIER KLUBOGALERIA  Jaw-dropping. On ul. Olejarna stands a sixstorey, re-enforced concrete cube built as an air-raid shelter, bunker and antiaircraft battery by the Germans during WWII. It now operates as one of the most visually stunning clubs in the country. Get past the rather large, black-suited chaps on the door and you’ll be met with the original corridors flanked by 1.2 metre thick walls which lead into a labyrinth of bars, dancefloors, seating areas and some of the most fantastic toilets we’ve ever seen. Each level is different with our favourite being the caged seating featuring military bunks and for some reason an electric chair on level 3 or 4 (or 5 we can’t be sure in the light of day).  The bars are well-stocked and manned by friendly staff; prices are surprisingly low and the mix of original features (lighting, exposed pipes) and artistic touches will have you reaching regularly for your camera phone. Once you’ve finished looking around you’ll find it’s not a bad club either. QC-3, ul. Olejarna 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 531 71 12 07, www.bunkierclub.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. EXW

Nightlife It’s the kind of place you could spend the evening chatting away with friends or a quiet hour in the afternoon with a book and a coffee. Thoroughly recommendable and a great addition to the Gdynia scene. QN-1, ul. Mściwoja 9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 48 87 61, www.bistrosrodmiescie. pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. TGS W

SZCZĘŚLIWEGO NOWEGO JORKU  Taking the name of a recommended film about Polish immigrants in New York (playing on the Polish for ‘Happy New Year’), the friendly father and son team that run the place have created a more upmarket version of the Polish Snacks & Shots bar while keeping prices low. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 19, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 61 61 90. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. UGW

TAPAS DE RUCOLA Combining the trendiness of Poland’s current ‘przekąski zakąski’ phenomenon with the exoticness of Spanish Andalusia, this casual tapas bar has quickly developed into one of Sopot’s most fashionable destinations. Serving an array of Andalusiainspired and authentic small tasting dishes, all for 10zł each, a friendly mix of customers nibble away at chorizo sausages and Serrano ham while slugging down Spanish wines and the excellent, local Złote Lwy (Golden Lions) or Zywe beer on draft. With a colourful interior of imitation-Picasso mural art and a carefree atmosphere, Tapas really packs out after siesta, particularly on weekends when the party lasts long into the morning.QM-4, ul. Pułaskiego 15, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 55 01, www.tapassopot.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (10-60zł). 6GSW

CLUBS BUFFET CLUB Found inside the derelict remains of the former Lenin Shipyards, head towards the old blocks of flats (ul. Robotnicza). There you’ll find Buffet (pronounce “boo-fett”by the locals, not “buff-fay”like the smorgasbord) located in the Wyspa Institute of Art building. The major pull here though are the truly memorable nights which feature Polish and foreign DJs playing anything from indie to drum n’b ass. Do expect a décor that reflects the post-communist fate of the shipyards and nights that finish in daylight. Do not expect Beyonce or bathrooms with toilet paper. QB-1, ul. Doki 1/145b, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 534 70 90 40, www.buffet.com. pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. XW

SPATIF

THE OLD GDAŃSK   The old town has been crying out for a place like this - Old Gdansk Pub really ought to be called Slightly Older and more mature Gdansk pub to reflect the clientele. Live music pulls them into this small space where concerts featuring Jazz, Blues, Rock or sometimes Folk music are held every Friday and Saturday (some weeks also on Thursday and Sunday) from 19:00 to 22:00 and they pull in a variety of local and foreign guests happy to relax with a glass of wine, one of the 30 bottled beers, a shot from the generous selection of spirits or some of the simple bar food as their moods are mellowed by the music. QC-4, ul. Piwna 56/57, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 694 22 51 00, www.gdansk-beerpub. com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. EGW

 The rapid expansion in the nightlife o ptions in town has seen the overall level move quite sharply towards ‘tacky’ ‘tacky’ so it’s encouraging to see a place prepared to do more than cheap alcohol. To find Wtedy (Then) head round the back of a bank, a fact that itself lends it an ‘in-the-know’ in-the-know’ kind of feel. Inside the crowd is a little older than on the ‘strip’(but not as older as the dollies at the coat check) while a vinylspinning DJ, excellent bar and limited seating mean the place can’t help but dance. QL-4, ul. Kosciuszki 16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 791 37 77 38, www.wtedy.co. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 05:00. XW

TEKSTYLIA

70 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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 The Crooked in the building’s name refers to the architecture, not to how most of the clientele look as they leave, although it could. You can knock back shots in exchange for a handful of coins downstairs, sip cocktails with a good-looking crowd or dance the night away while dancers swing above your head on a trapeze on the upper levels.

CZEKOLADA An impressive 2 floor venue featuring DJs and bars on both levels from a group we’ve come into contact with in other cities around the country. Downstairs, find a lounge area while upstairs expect full-on parties with a more upbeat selection of tunes coming from behind a stage located DJ deck. All the right ingredients to attract a blingy and attractive crowd, and it’s the kind of club we could see a Premier League footballer coming to pick up his teammate’s’s girlfriend. Dress up and head into the Multikino teammate cinema complex (ground floor) to see for yourself. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 505 58 53 60, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. UXW One of the enduring legends of Sopot, though utterly different from the Spatif of legend. The design is still the same - eclectic art and an avant garde style - the only thing that’s changed is the people who visit. What was once a den of beatniks and thesps has morphed into, dare we say it, the sort of place where plastic comes first; be it plastic boobs or the platinum card. Much of the crowd is markedly ‘older’and we’re sure we’ve seen a few of those who used to talk revolution now relaxing here after a hard week in Brussels. It remains, surprisingly, hugely popular and as such has a strict door policy - whether you make it in or not, watch for the stairs. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 54, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 26 83, www.spatif.sopot.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. X

 This popular bar has certainly got the locals talking and drinking. Few if any places have been busier during Gdańsk’s close season, and you’ll find no shortage o f good lookers both behind and in front of the bar. Big, large windows make it perfect for people spotting, while inside some industrial touches sit comfortably with whimsical touches such as wire-framed corsets and some design mag extras. Highly recommended for both pre-club drinks or afternoon chillout. QB-3, ul. Szeroka 121/122, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 77 63. Open 09:00 - 24:00. UGW

CROOKED HOUSE

WTEDY

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Cocktail hour at Zła Kobieta

DREAM CLUB  There’s wow factor factor galore inside inside Dream Club, butunless you take your fashion tips from Maxim and Vogue there’s little chance of seeing it. Door selection is tough; for lads a logo on the shirt and some sunglasses on your head work miracles, while for girls a pneumatic set of knockers is guaranteed to do the trick. The rewards are ample, with top DJs, a top lighting and sound setup and a good-looking crowd. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 605 50 08 00, www.dreamclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. UX

NA DRUGĄ NÓŻKĘ Na Druga Nozke literally means ‘For the other leg’ which is a Polish phrase meaning something like ‘one for the road’. This is cheap and cheerful drinking. They have Tyskie on tap for 5zl and a more wide-ranging choice of cheap eats including calamari, nuggets and pierogi. For something different ask for a ‘kiwówka’ ‘kiwówka’ - a kiwi flavoured vodka. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 535 99 89 85, www. NaDrugaNozke.pl. Open 16:00 - 04:50. UXW

ZŁA KOBIETA A great looking pre-club spot found up the stairs in the Crooked House. The cocktails come prepared by pleasant English-speaking staff and while this is a great place for pre-club drinks you can also find yourself trapped as the crowd kick off on the small dancefloor. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 53, Sopot, tel. (+48) 606 85 39 30, www.zlakobieta.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00. UXW December 2015 - April 2016 71

Sightseeing

 The famous Gate #2 at the former Lenin Shipyard pyard

Ta e t e op port  r  nity to vi s t e Emigr a on Mus Museum eum i n G  yni i a or oneo

’ s ost m o er rn rn e x i i titi on on s.s.

Tri-city Sightseeing If it’s history you want then you’ve come to the right place because the Tri-city has sacks of it. So charge up the battery pack, clear the memory and let us point you and your camera in the right direction.

If you’re pressed for time here’s a list of those places you might want to make sure you don’t miss. More details about each, including addresses and opening hours, can be found within these pages. Starting off in Gdańsk then. It was in this city that the first fissures in the Iron Curtain appeared, forced open by Poles during the landmark August strikes of 1980. Following this first peaceful victory over the communist rulers, calls for greater freedoms were only nine years away from bringing down the Berlin Wall. The centre of these protests was Gate #2 of the Gdańsk shipyard and this can be found just outside of old town on ul. Doki. While there do not dare miss a visit to the excellent European Solidarity Centre which features a fascinating and very well presented tribute to the Solidarity movement which does a very good job of explaining how and why this movement of 10 million Poles came about and what it achieved. And Gdańsk was not only the city where the fall of communism can be traced but is also where the firs t shots of WWII were fired. WWII buffs should not miss the ferry ride (in season) up to the Westerplatte peninsula and to the Nowy Port lighthouse where the scars from the first shots of the war can still be seen.  The old town is where you’ll find a number of photo opportunities a fact made all the more remarkable when you consider most of it was a smouldering pile of bricks at the end of WWII.  The sensible start point is the Upland Gate, which marks the start of what was once known as the Royal Way. Following this route you’ll pass by Amber Museum and the  Torture Chamber and then through the Golden Gate. Stop for a moment under the gate to take at look at the pictures of the city once the fighting s topped in 1945 - it will make you appreciate what you’ll see on the rest of your walk all the more. As you pass through the Go lden Gate you come out onto Long Street (ul. Długa). On the left about half way down is the Main Town Hall which serves as the home of the Gdańsk History Museum and a few metres further on is Neptun’s fountain and Artus Court. The Royal Way ends at the impressive Green Gate. St. Mary’s Street (ulica Mariacka) ranks as the city’s most picturesque street and is dominated by the biggest brick church in the world St. Mar y’s (Bazylika Mariacka). Climb to the top for panoramic views of the city Nearby the 15th century Crane (D-4 Żuraw) stands on the river’s edge, a hulking reminder of Gdańsk’s merchant past. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Across the river the eery remains of Granary Island (D 4/5, Wyspa Spichrzow) serve as a somber reminder of the havoc wreaked here by WWII, while the Maritime Museum (including the ship Sołdek) provides an interesting look at the history of Polish seafaring. In Sopot, make a beeline for Krzywy Domek (the Crooked House) on the main pedestrian thoroughfare - ul. Monte Cassino. Probably Sopot’s most photographed landmark, the building was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of a Swedish resident of Sopot. From there carry on to the focal point of Sopot - the 511m pier. Originally built by a doctor in Napoleon’s occupying army, the pier is the longest in the Baltic. At one time the gardens surrounding the pier were themselves part of a huge hotel, spa and casino complex.  The Sofitel Grand Hotel is one of the few original buildings dings which survived and has been renovated and modernised in recent years.

Europe’s longest wooden pier at Sopot

Gdynia, while younger than its sister cities, does offer a small but interesting selection of sightseeing options.  Take a look at the City of Gdynia Museum which does a good job of showing how a fishing village was turned into an international port and commercial centre in under a decade because of the decisions made in the Treaty of Versailles. And being a port it also offers a more nautical set of attractions. Make sure to visit the ships docked on the quayside, the three-masted Polish training ship Dar Pormorza and WWII battleship Blyskawica. And for those with children the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium (O-1) makes for an entertaining couple of hours. Last but not least in Gdynia, check out the excellent Emigration Museum, which tells the stories of centuries of Polish emigration.

 The museum ships in Gdynia port

December 2015 - April 2016

73

Sightseeing

 The famous Gate #2 at the former Lenin Shipyard pyard

Ta e t e op port  r  nity to vi s t e Emigr a on Mus Museum eum i n G  yni i a or oneo

’ s ost m o er rn rn e x i i titi on on s.s.

Tri-city Sightseeing If it’s history you want then you’ve come to the right place because the Tri-city has sacks of it. So charge up the battery pack, clear the memory and let us point you and your camera in the right direction.

If you’re pressed for time here’s a list of those places you might want to make sure you don’t miss. More details about each, including addresses and opening hours, can be found within these pages. Starting off in Gdańsk then. It was in this city that the first fissures in the Iron Curtain appeared, forced open by Poles during the landmark August strikes of 1980. Following this first peaceful victory over the communist rulers, calls for greater freedoms were only nine years away from bringing down the Berlin Wall. The centre of these protests was Gate #2 of the Gdańsk shipyard and this can be found just outside of old town on ul. Doki. While there do not dare miss a visit to the excellent European Solidarity Centre which features a fascinating and very well presented tribute to the Solidarity movement which does a very good job of explaining how and why this movement of 10 million Poles came about and what it achieved. And Gdańsk was not only the city where the fall of communism can be traced but is also where the firs t shots of WWII were fired. WWII buffs should not miss the ferry ride (in season) up to the Westerplatte peninsula and to the Nowy Port lighthouse where the scars from the first shots of the war can still be seen.  The old town is where you’ll find a number of photo opportunities a fact made all the more remarkable when you consider most of it was a smouldering pile of bricks at the end of WWII.  The sensible start point is the Upland Gate, which marks the start of what was once known as the Royal Way. Following this route you’ll pass by Amber Museum and the  Torture Chamber and then through the Golden Gate. Stop for a moment under the gate to take at look at the pictures of the city once the fighting s topped in 1945 - it will make you appreciate what you’ll see on the rest of your walk all the more. As you pass through the Go lden Gate you come out onto Long Street (ul. Długa). On the left about half way down is the Main Town Hall which serves as the home of the Gdańsk History Museum and a few metres further on is Neptun’s fountain and Artus Court. The Royal Way ends at the impressive Green Gate. St. Mary’s Street (ulica Mariacka) ranks as the city’s most picturesque street and is dominated by the biggest brick church in the world St. Mar y’s (Bazylika Mariacka). Climb to the top for panoramic views of the city Nearby the 15th century Crane (D-4 Żuraw) stands on the river’s edge, a hulking reminder of Gdańsk’s merchant past.

Across the river the eery remains of Granary Island (D 4/5, Wyspa Spichrzow) serve as a somber reminder of the havoc wreaked here by WWII, while the Maritime Museum (including the ship Sołdek) provides an interesting look at the history of Polish seafaring. In Sopot, make a beeline for Krzywy Domek (the Crooked House) on the main pedestrian thoroughfare - ul. Monte Cassino. Probably Sopot’s most photographed landmark, the building was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of a Swedish resident of Sopot. From there carry on to the focal point of Sopot - the 511m pier. Originally built by a doctor in Napoleon’s occupying army, the pier is the longest in the Baltic. At one time the gardens surrounding the pier were themselves part of a huge hotel, spa and casino complex.  The Sofitel Grand Hotel is one of the few original buildings dings which survived and has been renovated and modernised in recent years.

Europe’s longest wooden pier at Sopot

Gdynia, while younger than its sister cities, does offer a small but interesting selection of sightseeing options.  Take a look at the City of Gdynia Museum which does a good job of showing how a fishing village was turned into an international port and commercial centre in under a decade because of the decisions made in the Treaty of Versailles. And being a port it also offers a more nautical set of attractions. Make sure to visit the ships docked on the quayside, the three-masted Polish training ship Dar Pormorza and WWII battleship Blyskawica. And for those with children the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium (O-1) makes for an entertaining couple of hours. Last but not least in Gdynia, check out the excellent Emigration Museum, which tells the stories of centuries of Polish emigration.

 The museum ships in Gdynia port

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December 2015 - April 2016

Sightseeing THE ROYAL WAY

Sightseeing in the tower open during the summer months. QB-4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Amber Museum) 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, under-16s 1zł. Tue free. Y

When the king of Poland travelled from Warsaw to Gdańsk, he would enter the city through the Brama Wyżynna (Upland Gate), continue through the Złota Brama (Golden Gate), and then head along ulica Długa (Long Street) and Długi Targ (Long Market) to the Z ielona Brama (Green Gate). Although he didn’t make this journey often, it was highly profitable for him to visit Gdańsk due to the enormous tax revenue the city commanded through its trade. In turn, Gdańsk’s predominantly Germanic city dwellers would negotiate with the Polish king for greater rights, gaining substantially more privileges from him than they ever would from the Prussians in the 18th century.

GOLDEN GATE

MAIN TOWN HALL  The Town Town Hall spire, with th a golden replica of King Zygmunt Zygmunt August on its pinnacle, dominates ul. Długa’s skyline. Built in the late 14th century as the seat of city authorities, the Town Hall hosted many Polish kings. It was almost completely destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary care.  The tower tower contains a 37-bell 37-bell clarion which which was inaugurate inauguratedd on New Year’s Eve 2000. The interior of the building, home to Gdańsk History Museum today, is lushly decorated with painted ceilings, colourful frescoes and elaborate furniture and carvings. Two solemn lions guard its 18th century portal, from where an elaborate staircase leads to the luxuriant Sala Czerwona, the Red Room. This room was used by the council in summer. Its ornamented ceiling is decorated with 25 paintings surrounding a central piece entitled The Glorification of the Unity of Gdańsk.The town hall is another place that offers you views from the top of the tower while the weather is good. QC-4, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, under-16s 1zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. Y

Picturesque ul. Długa  Długa  is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. From the Golden Gate which protects it, the gently-curving street opens into an array of colourful burgher houses, roccoco portals, gothic mouldings and original porticoes. The house numbers run in opposite directions on either side, a feature typical of old Gdańsk streets. N° 12 houses a Museum of Burgher Interiors. N° 71 is one of the few structures on the street to survive World War II and still bears original mouldings from the second half of the 15th century. N° 28 is Dom Ferberów (Ferber’s House), dating to 1560, with magnificent sculptures and the three familiar coats of arms. N° 29 has an interesting crew of Roman emperors peering from its baroque façade. King Władysław IV entertained local dignitaries at Lwi Zamek (The Lion’s Castle) at N° 35; two lions guard its portal. The house neighbouring it dates to 1563 and is a splendid example of the influence of the Dutch renaissance on Gdańsk architecture. The renaissance house at N° 45

UPLAND GATE  This 16th century gate, the main entrance into the Old  Town, was the original star ting point for the Royal Way. It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded by a 50m moat and was named for its ‘upland’ ‘upland’ location above the water level. The metal pulleys used for raising and lowering the drawbridges are still visible beneath the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk. The gate has undergone major renovation work in recent years and now houses a tourist information point. QB-4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie, Gdańsk.

74 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

LONG MARKET & NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN  The focal point of Długi Targ, the Long Market, is the Neptune Fountain, a bronze statue of the sea god erected in 1549 and converted to a fountain in 1633 and restored in 2011/12. During WWII, this symbol of Gdańsk was dismantled and hidden with many of the city’s other treasures. It was only returned to its rightful place in 1954.  The square itself is surrounded by colourful and ornate houses which look magnificent when the sun is beating off their decorated walls. Długi Targ used to be home to Gdańsk’s richest, most elite residents and was used for assemblies. Executions took place on the square in front of Artus Court.QC-5.

ARTUS COURT  This impressive mansion, a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th centuries, served as an exchange and as the seat of St. George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians. Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after King Arthur, of round table fame, and hosted many a noble guest. Following a fire in 1841, it was given a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings illustrating man’s merits and vices. Inside, the centrepiece of the main hall is a 10.64-metre renaissance tiled stove dating to 1546, made of more than 500 individual tiles and the tallest of its kind in Europe. Its adornments portray leaders, coats of arms and allegorical figures. Just to the left is a small pewter surface that claims to be the oldest table in Poland while two stone lions protect the entrance to the cellars of the court. The

PRISON TOWER AND TORTURE CHAMBER Originally built as part of the city’s fortifications in the second half of the 14th century, the complex was rebuilt by Antoni van Obberghen between 1593 and 1604 with the smaller of the two buildings becoming a torture chamber and courthouse while the larger tower became the prison. It was here that executions were carried out until the middle of the 19th century. Damaged during WWII, it has been extensively renovated and how houses the Amber and Torture Museums. There’s a viewing platform

belonged to the Schumann family and is sometimes called the House of the Polish Kings (Dom Królów Polskich); figures of Greek gods stud its alcoves. The eastern end of the street is dominated by the tall, slim tower of the Town Hall.QB/C-4.

 The virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice and Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Długa. Built between 1642-44, it was destroyed during WWII and not restored until 1997. An inscription on the gate reads, ‘Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.’ QB-4, ul. Długa, Gdańsk.

LONG STREET

Golden Gate

73

Main Town Hall

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TOURIST INFORMATION GDAŃSK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE An air-conditioned TI point on the main square set in one of only two examples of Rococo in the city. Find audio guides in 3 languages, Gdańsk-Sopot-GdyniaPlus Tourist cards, maps, leaflets and get help from the helpful, multi-lingual staff. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 55, www.gdansk4u.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Also at: Gdańsk Główny Station (in the tunnel) open 09:00 - 17:00 and Gdańsk Airport (Arrivals Hall) open 24hrs.

POMERANIAN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE A new hi-tech information point run by the regional government’s tourist department. QB-4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2a (Upland Gate), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 732 70 41, www.pomorskie.travel. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER  The mainTourist Information office set in the wonderful looking building that once housed the Polish Ocean Lines company.QN-1, ul. 10 Lutego 24, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 37 66, www.gdyniaturystyczna.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

TOURIST INFORMATION SOPOT Info point inside the revamped ‘Health House’. QM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 28 08 84, www. sts.sopot.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. court still plays an important part in public life today and is the scene of important receptions and meetings. QC-5, Długi Targ Targ 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 83, www. mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, under-16s 1zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. Y

GREEN GATE  This magnificent four-arched gatehouse on the waterfront was built as a palace for Polish monarchs. No Polish king ever stayed in the building, but Lech Wałęsa had his o ffice here b efore moving to the Euro pean Solidarity Centre. The gate leads to the Green Bridge, which spans the Motława River and which used to be raised to stop the riff-raff from getting into the Old  Town. Following a careful reno vation the gate no w bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdam’s central train station, and hosts an art gallery and the Gdansk Photo Gallery. QC-5, Długi Targ 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng.gda.pl. gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From February open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł, plus additional 2/1zł for the Gdansk Photo Gallery. Free on Fridays (year-round for the Green Gate, starting in Feb for the Photo Gallery). Y December 2015 - April 2016 75

Sightseeing

Sightseeing in the tower open during the summer months. QB-4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Amber Museum) 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, under-16s 1zł. Tue free. Y

THE ROYAL WAY

GOLDEN GATE

MAIN TOWN HALL

 The virtues of Peace, Freedom, Wealth, Fame, Piety, Justice and Concord are depicted in allegorical statues adorning the balustrade of this gate overlooking ul. Długa. Built between 1642-44, it was destroyed during WWII and not restored until 1997. An inscription on the gate reads, ‘Small states grow by concord, great ones fall by disagreement.’ QB-4, ul. Długa, Gdańsk.

 The Town Town Hall spire, with th a golden replica of King Zygmunt Zygmunt August on its pinnacle, dominates ul. Długa’s skyline. Built in the late 14th century as the seat of city authorities, the Town Hall hosted many Polish kings. It was almost completely destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with extraordinary care.  The tower tower contains a 37-bell 37-bell clarion which which was inaugurate inauguratedd on New Year’s Eve 2000. The interior of the building, home to Gdańsk History Museum today, is lushly decorated with painted ceilings, colourful frescoes and elaborate furniture and carvings. Two solemn lions guard its 18th century portal, from where an elaborate staircase leads to the luxuriant Sala Czerwona, the Red Room. This room was used by the council in summer. Its ornamented ceiling is decorated with 25 paintings surrounding a central piece entitled The Glorification of the Unity of Gdańsk.The town hall is another place that offers you views from the top of the tower while the weather is good. QC-4, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, under-16s 1zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. Y

LONG STREET

Golden Gate

When the king of Poland travelled from Warsaw to Gdańsk, he would enter the city through the Brama Wyżynna (Upland Gate), continue through the Złota Brama (Golden Gate), and then head along ulica Długa (Long Street) and Długi Targ (Long Market) to the Z ielona Brama (Green Gate). Although he didn’t make this journey often, it was highly profitable for him to visit Gdańsk due to the enormous tax revenue the city commanded through its trade. In turn, Gdańsk’s predominantly Germanic city dwellers would negotiate with the Polish king for greater rights, gaining substantially more privileges from him than they ever would from the Prussians in the 18th century.

Picturesque ul. Długa  Długa  is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. From the Golden Gate which protects it, the gently-curving street opens into an array of colourful burgher houses, roccoco portals, gothic mouldings and original porticoes. The house numbers run in opposite directions on either side, a feature typical of old Gdańsk streets. N° 12 houses a Museum of Burgher Interiors. N° 71 is one of the few structures on the street to survive World War II and still bears original mouldings from the second half of the 15th century. N° 28 is Dom Ferberów (Ferber’s House), dating to 1560, with magnificent sculptures and the three familiar coats of arms. N° 29 has an interesting crew of Roman emperors peering from its baroque façade. King Władysław IV entertained local dignitaries at Lwi Zamek (The Lion’s Castle) at N° 35; two lions guard its portal. The house neighbouring it dates to 1563 and is a splendid example of the influence of the Dutch renaissance on Gdańsk architecture. The renaissance house at N° 45

UPLAND GATE  This 16th century gate, the main entrance into the Old  Town, was the original star ting point for the Royal Way. It was here that the Polish king was welcomed and given the keys to the city. The gate was originally surrounded by a 50m moat and was named for its ‘upland’ ‘upland’ location above the water level. The metal pulleys used for raising and lowering the drawbridges are still visible beneath the coats of arms of Poland, Prussia and Gdańsk. The gate has undergone major renovation work in recent years and now houses a tourist information point. QB-4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie, Gdańsk.

LONG MARKET & NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN  The focal point of Długi Targ, the Long Market, is the Neptune Fountain, a bronze statue of the sea god erected in 1549 and converted to a fountain in 1633 and restored in 2011/12. During WWII, this symbol of Gdańsk was dismantled and hidden with many of the city’s other treasures. It was only returned to its rightful place in 1954.  The square itself is surrounded by colourful and ornate houses which look magnificent when the sun is beating off their decorated walls. Długi Targ used to be home to Gdańsk’s richest, most elite residents and was used for assemblies. Executions took place on the square in front of Artus Court.QC-5.

ARTUS COURT  This impressive mansion, a symbol of the city’s power in the 16th and 17th centuries, served as an exchange and as the seat of St. George and the brotherhoods of rich patricians. Founded as a meeting place for merchants and dignitaries, it was named after King Arthur, of round table fame, and hosted many a noble guest. Following a fire in 1841, it was given a more Gothic form, complete with ostentatious sculptures and paintings illustrating man’s merits and vices. Inside, the centrepiece of the main hall is a 10.64-metre renaissance tiled stove dating to 1546, made of more than 500 individual tiles and the tallest of its kind in Europe. Its adornments portray leaders, coats of arms and allegorical figures. Just to the left is a small pewter surface that claims to be the oldest table in Poland while two stone lions protect the entrance to the cellars of the court. The

PRISON TOWER AND TORTURE CHAMBER Originally built as part of the city’s fortifications in the second half of the 14th century, the complex was rebuilt by Antoni van Obberghen between 1593 and 1604 with the smaller of the two buildings becoming a torture chamber and courthouse while the larger tower became the prison. It was here that executions were carried out until the middle of the 19th century. Damaged during WWII, it has been extensively renovated and how houses the Amber and Torture Museums. There’s a viewing platform

belonged to the Schumann family and is sometimes called the House of the Polish Kings (Dom Królów Polskich); figures of Greek gods stud its alcoves. The eastern end of the street is dominated by the tall, slim tower of the Town Hall.QB/C-4.

Main Town Hall

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TOURIST INFORMATION GDAŃSK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE An air-conditioned TI point on the main square set in one of only two examples of Rococo in the city. Find audio guides in 3 languages, Gdańsk-Sopot-GdyniaPlus Tourist cards, maps, leaflets and get help from the helpful, multi-lingual staff. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 28/29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 55, www.gdansk4u.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Also at: Gdańsk Główny Station (in the tunnel) open 09:00 - 17:00 and Gdańsk Airport (Arrivals Hall) open 24hrs.

POMERANIAN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE A new hi-tech information point run by the regional government’s tourist department. QB-4, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2a (Upland Gate), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 732 70 41, www.pomorskie.travel. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER  The mainTourist Information office set in the wonderful looking building that once housed the Polish Ocean Lines company.QN-1, ul. 10 Lutego 24, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 37 66, www.gdyniaturystyczna.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

TOURIST INFORMATION SOPOT Info point inside the revamped ‘Health House’. QM-4, Pl. Zdrojowy 2, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 28 08 84, www. sts.sopot.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. court still plays an important part in public life today and is the scene of important receptions and meetings. QC-5, Długi Targ Targ 43/44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 83, www. mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, under-16s 1zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. Y

GREEN GATE  This magnificent four-arched gatehouse on the waterfront was built as a palace for Polish monarchs. No Polish king ever stayed in the building, but Lech Wałęsa had his o ffice here b efore moving to the Euro pean Solidarity Centre. The gate leads to the Green Bridge, which spans the Motława River and which used to be raised to stop the riff-raff from getting into the Old  Town. Following a careful reno vation the gate no w bears an uncanny resemblance to Amsterdam’s central train station, and hosts an art gallery and the Gdansk Photo Gallery. QC-5, Długi Targ 24, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 307 59 12 ext. 102, www.mng.gda.pl. gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From February open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł, plus additional 2/1zł for the Gdansk Photo Gallery. Free on Fridays (year-round for the Green Gate, starting in Feb for the Photo Gallery). Y December 2015 - April 2016 75

Sightseeing

Sightseeing ROYAL CHAPEL

CEMETERIES

TOURIST CARD

CEMETERY OF THE LOST CEMETERIES

 Those looking to take advantage of as much as the city has to offer should seriously consider picking up a Gdansk-Gdynia-Sopot-Plus tourist card. The card works on a number of levels depending what you are looking to get out of the city. The basic card costs 13zł and gets you discounts at over 150 partners of the local tourist organisation until the 30th April 2016. You can then add either or both a Sightseeing or Transport option to this basic card depending on your needs. The Sightseeing option gives you entry to 24 museums and the zoo while the transport option buys you unlimited travel on the city’s public transport network including the local SKM (local commuter train).  The Sightseeing and Transport packages are available in 24-hour or 72-hour options with prices as follows so that a normal 72-hour card with both Sightseeing and  Transport options will cost 88zł: Sightseeing Normal Reduced Transport Normal Reduced

72-hour 48zł 38zł 72-hour 53zł 33zł

24-hour 38zł 28zł 24-hour 33zł 23zł

You can pick a Tourist Card up from any of the following venues: • Lech Wałęsa Airport, Airport, ul. Słowackiego 200 • Gdansk Main Railway station (A-2, the tunnel), ul. Podwale Grodzkie • Gdańsk Tourist Infomation Centre, (C-5) ul. Długi Targ 28/29 • PTTK Gdańsk Tourist Information, (C-5) ul. Długa 45 • Pomorskie Centrum Informacji Turystycznej, (B-4) ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2a • Gdynia Tourist Information Centre, (N-1) ul. 10 Lutego 24 We have marked those places listed in this guide which accept the Tourist Card with a Y symbol. 76 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Designed by Jacek Krenz and Hanna Klementowska and featuring sculptures by Zygfryd Korpalski and Witold Głuchowski, this small memorial between the Church of Corpus Christi and the bus s tation was offi cially opened on May 24, 2002. Dedicated to the citizens of Gdańsk who were once buried in one of the city’s 27 graveyards either destroyed during WWII or bulldozed on purpose after the end of the war, the new Cemetery of Lost Cemeteries was designed to resemble a temple. The main memorial is surrounded by broken gravestones representing all faiths, and includes a poem by the Jewish poetess Masha Kaleko (1912-1975), whose poetry was burnt on the direct orders of Hitler in May 1933. QA-1, ul. 3 Maja, Gdańsk.

CHURCHES CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH Once part of a settlement called Grodzisko, a complex of fortifications outside of Gdańsk’s main city walls, the Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi) Church is one of the oldest remaining houses of worship in the city. Dating from the early part of the 14th century, the church was originally part of a larger complex that grew around it including a small chapel, old people’s home, a leprosy hospital and a cemetery that was closed by the communists in 1956. The church is not a great looker, but is interesting on two levels. It was here that the city’s poignant Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries was built in 2002, and, along with St. Nicholas’ Church, it was the only other church to escape any damage at all during WWII. QA-1, ul. 3 Maja 19a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 52 38. Open by prior arrangement. arrangement. No visiting during mass please.

GARRISON CHURCH OF ST JERZY Designed by Louis von Tiedemann of Potsdam between 1899 and 1901 under the patronage of Empress Augusta Victoria (who chipped in 1,000 marks of her own money towards its construction), the Neo-Gothic Garrison Church of St Jerzy stands on the site of Sopot’s former market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been Roman Catholic since Sopot’s reincorporation into Poland in 1945.  The minimalist whitewashe whitewashedd interior comprises three unremarkable stone and brick naves, some charming modern stained glass and a wooden relief of the Virgin Mary by Zofia Kamilska-Trzcińska, which used to be on board the SS Batory as a token of luck during the war. A Neo-Gothic chapel complete with ceramic roof stands in the square outside. Once a well, the chapel now shelters a rather forlorn-looking statue of St. Adalbert. QL-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 05 48, www.jerzy.sopot. pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Often overlooked because of its gargantuan neighbour, St. Mary’s Church, this little baroque beauty was built in accordance with the will of the Primate of Poland in 1681 for the city’s Catholic minority. QC-4, ul. Św. Ducha 58, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82. Open during Sunday mass only which takes place at 11:00.

BISTRO&BAR  `                 

DWADZIESCIACZTERY 

ST. MARY’S CHURCH St. Mary’s in the Old Town is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels. It can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the Solidarity movement sought refuge here. The church can be accessed through seven gates with intriguing names like the Purse Maker’s Door. Interestingly, the sculptor who carved the crucifix of Christ nailed his errant son-in-law to a cross so as to add realism to his work. St. Mary’s was seriously damaged during WWII and the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, which far from leaving an impression of stark emptiness bring out the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous feeling. Of note is the enormous astronomical clock dating from 1464. Its complex dials show the time and date, phases of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zod iac signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell on the hour. According to legend, the clock’s creator had his eyes gouged out so he’d never make a clock to better than this one. You’ll hear this story about every astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why mediaeval clock-makers ever accepted commissions. The 78 metre tower houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old Gdansk and has benefitted from a 3.3 million euro renovation. QC-4, ul. Podkramarska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82, www.bazylikamariacka. pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30.

ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH  The first Catholic church in the city and the only one to escape WWII without a scratch. Founded by the Dominican Order in 1348-90, this is a remarkable church with a dark marbled interior, ancient exposed walls and a sombre atmosphere. Of note is the multi-level high altar and Baroque-panelled choir stalls which make it a popular choice for weddings. QC-3, ul. Świętojańska 72, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 35 77, www.gdansk.dominikanie.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Te restaurant, restaurant, located in the heart of Old own Gdańsk, has an interesting interior, a rich menu and an unique freshly squeezed  juices from fruit and vegetables. vegetables. ul. Piwna 16, 80-831 Gdańsk, tel. 58 304 14 92

We add �avo to unique moment When the waterfront of Gdańk i too buy for you, cro over to the Filharmonia (it’ only a few minute’ walk) where you can it on the waterfront in peace and quiet and have an excellent meal. Tee in’t the wides ange of choice but the food i vey good with ome imaginative dihe and excellent evice fom pofeional saff. Well worh the hor walk thee. Lancaster, August 2014 

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December 2015 - April 2016 77

Sightseeing

Sightseeing ROYAL CHAPEL

CEMETERIES

TOURIST CARD

CEMETERY OF THE LOST CEMETERIES

 Those looking to take advantage of as much as the city has to offer should seriously consider picking up a Gdansk-Gdynia-Sopot-Plus tourist card. The card works on a number of levels depending what you are looking to get out of the city. The basic card costs 13zł and gets you discounts at over 150 partners of the local tourist organisation until the 30th April 2016. You can then add either or both a Sightseeing or Transport option to this basic card depending on your needs. The Sightseeing option gives you entry to 24 museums and the zoo while the transport option buys you unlimited travel on the city’s public transport network including the local SKM (local commuter train).  The Sightseeing and Transport packages are available in 24-hour or 72-hour options with prices as follows so that a normal 72-hour card with both Sightseeing and  Transport options will cost 88zł: Sightseeing Normal Reduced Transport Normal Reduced

72-hour 48zł 38zł 72-hour 53zł 33zł

24-hour 38zł 28zł 24-hour 33zł 23zł

You can pick a Tourist Card up from any of the following venues: • Lech Wałęsa Airport, Airport, ul. Słowackiego 200 • Gdansk Main Railway station (A-2, the tunnel), ul. Podwale Grodzkie • Gdańsk Tourist Infomation Centre, (C-5) ul. Długi Targ 28/29 • PTTK Gdańsk Tourist Information, (C-5) ul. Długa 45 • Pomorskie Centrum Informacji Turystycznej, (B-4) ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 2a • Gdynia Tourist Information Centre, (N-1) ul. 10 Lutego 24 We have marked those places listed in this guide which accept the Tourist Card with a Y symbol.

Designed by Jacek Krenz and Hanna Klementowska and featuring sculptures by Zygfryd Korpalski and Witold Głuchowski, this small memorial between the Church of Corpus Christi and the bus s tation was offi cially opened on May 24, 2002. Dedicated to the citizens of Gdańsk who were once buried in one of the city’s 27 graveyards either destroyed during WWII or bulldozed on purpose after the end of the war, the new Cemetery of Lost Cemeteries was designed to resemble a temple. The main memorial is surrounded by broken gravestones representing all faiths, and includes a poem by the Jewish poetess Masha Kaleko (1912-1975), whose poetry was burnt on the direct orders of Hitler in May 1933. QA-1, ul. 3 Maja, Gdańsk.

CHURCHES CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH Once part of a settlement called Grodzisko, a complex of fortifications outside of Gdańsk’s main city walls, the Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi) Church is one of the oldest remaining houses of worship in the city. Dating from the early part of the 14th century, the church was originally part of a larger complex that grew around it including a small chapel, old people’s home, a leprosy hospital and a cemetery that was closed by the communists in 1956. The church is not a great looker, but is interesting on two levels. It was here that the city’s poignant Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries was built in 2002, and, along with St. Nicholas’ Church, it was the only other church to escape any damage at all during WWII. QA-1, ul. 3 Maja 19a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 52 38. Open by prior arrangement. arrangement. No visiting during mass please.

GARRISON CHURCH OF ST JERZY Designed by Louis von Tiedemann of Potsdam between 1899 and 1901 under the patronage of Empress Augusta Victoria (who chipped in 1,000 marks of her own money towards its construction), the Neo-Gothic Garrison Church of St Jerzy stands on the site of Sopot’s former market square. Originally Evangelist, the church has been Roman Catholic since Sopot’s reincorporation into Poland in 1945.  The minimalist whitewashe whitewashedd interior comprises three unremarkable stone and brick naves, some charming modern stained glass and a wooden relief of the Virgin Mary by Zofia Kamilska-Trzcińska, which used to be on board the SS Batory as a token of luck during the war. A Neo-Gothic chapel complete with ceramic roof stands in the square outside. Once a well, the chapel now shelters a rather forlorn-looking statue of St. Adalbert. QL-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 05 48, www.jerzy.sopot. pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Often overlooked because of its gargantuan neighbour, St. Mary’s Church, this little baroque beauty was built in accordance with the will of the Primate of Poland in 1681 for the city’s Catholic minority. QC-4, ul. Św. Ducha 58, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82. Open during Sunday mass only which takes place at 11:00.

BISTRO&BAR  `                 

DWADZIESCIACZTERY 

ST. MARY’S CHURCH St. Mary’s in the Old Town is believed to be the largest brick church in the world. The interior vault supports 37 windows, over 300 tombstones and 31 chapels. It can hold up to 25,000 people, which was useful during the period of martial law between 1981 and 1983 when members of the Solidarity movement sought refuge here. The church can be accessed through seven gates with intriguing names like the Purse Maker’s Door. Interestingly, the sculptor who carved the crucifix of Christ nailed his errant son-in-law to a cross so as to add realism to his work. St. Mary’s was seriously damaged during WWII and the original frescoes have since been whitewashed, which far from leaving an impression of stark emptiness bring out the best in the relics throughout and creating a marvellous feeling. Of note is the enormous astronomical clock dating from 1464. Its complex dials show the time and date, phases of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zod iac signs, and the calendar of saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell on the hour. According to legend, the clock’s creator had his eyes gouged out so he’d never make a clock to better than this one. You’ll hear this story about every astronomical clock in Europe, and it makes you wonder why mediaeval clock-makers ever accepted commissions. The 78 metre tower houses a viewing platform with cracking views of old Gdansk and has benefitted from a 3.3 million euro renovation. QC-4, ul. Podkramarska 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 39 82, www.bazylikamariacka. pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30.

ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH  The first Catholic church in the city and the only one to escape WWII without a scratch. Founded by the Dominican Order in 1348-90, this is a remarkable church with a dark marbled interior, ancient exposed walls and a sombre atmosphere. Of note is the multi-level high altar and Baroque-panelled choir stalls which make it a popular choice for weddings. QC-3, ul. Świętojańska 72, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 35 77, www.gdansk.dominikanie.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Te restaurant, restaurant, located in the heart of Old own Gdańsk, has an interesting interior, a rich menu and an unique freshly squeezed  juices from fruit and vegetables. vegetables. ul. Piwna 16, 80-831 Gdańsk, tel. 58 304 14 92

We add �avo to unique moment When the waterfront of Gdańk i too buy for you, cro over to the Filharmonia (it’ only a few minute’ walk) where you can it on the waterfront in peace and quiet and have an excellent meal. Tee in’t the wides ange of choice but the food i vey good with ome imaginative dihe and excellent evice fom pofeional saff. Well worh the hor walk thee. Lancaster, August 2014 

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com

76 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańk, +48 58 323 83 58 resauracja�lharmonia.pl

December 2015 - April 2016 77

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Sightseeing BŁYSKAWICA  With the Treaty of Versailles Poland found itself a nation state once more, granted access to the sea via what was to become the infamous ‘Polish Corridor’. For the first time in a century Poland had coastline and her own waters, the only thing missing was a navy to guard it. Polish defensive bods designed a new fast attack class of destroyer, and the tender was won by the JS White firm based in Cowes on the Isle of Wight to build two such destroyers, the Błyskawica (Lightning), and a sister ship, ORP Grom (Thunder). Measuring 114 metres in length, powered by turbines rated at 54,000hp, armed to the teeth and boasting a top speed of 39 knots, these were to become the fastest destroyers in the world when launched in 1936. Both boats were spirited to England on the eve of war as part of the Peking Plan, where they came under the command of the British Royal Navy. Based in Cowes the Błyskawica saw action several times, including in the Mediterranean, Normandy and as an Atlantic convoy escort. However, her finest moment was to come in Cowes. Captained by Wojciech Francki, on the night of the 4th May 1942 the town came under attack from up to 160 Luftwaffe bombers. Anticipating an attack Capt. Francki had ensured the Błyskawica was well-armed, despite a ruling stating the vessel should have been decommissioned while in port. In a further breach of regulations Francki ordered his crew to fight off the waves of bombers, and what followed was a ferocious battle between sea and air. The heroic defence and the smokescreen that was lit were enough to thwart the Luftwaffe, and the captain and crew were hailed as the ‘saviours of Cowes’. Less forthcoming in their recognition were the pedants in the British Admiralty; conscious of condoning a blatant violation of the rules they sent a tight-lipped dispatch commending the good work done by Francki. At the end of the war the Błyskawica returned to Poland, though without its captain and many of its crew. Francki chose a new life in Australia, away from the suspicions and hostility of the new communist government, and it was a lead followed by many of his ratings. In 2004 the actions of the Błyskawica were formally acknowledged, and a plaque unveiled in the port of Cowes b y Francki’s daughter. daughter. The ship itself was retired from service in 1969, and has since served as a museum ship held in the sort of regard the Brits reserve for the HMS Victory. It’s the only ship to be awarded Poland’s highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 626 36 58, www.muzeummw.pl. Closed until the end of April. N

78 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Sightseeing HAFFNER MONUMENT

MONUMENTS DISPLACED GDYNIAN MONUMENT

A monument to the French doctor (1777 - 1830) who came to Sopot while serving in Napoleon’s army. Once the fighting was over, Haffner returned and built a bathing complex, sanitorium and spa as well as the beginnings of Sopot’s signature pier. He is widely regarded as the founder of modern Sopot and he died here in 1830. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy, Sopot.

JOSEPH CONRAD MONUMENT

 This particularly emotive monument was created to remember those Gdynians deported from the city following the Nazi takeover in 1939. Estimates range from 120,000 to 170,000 people and included an estimated 30,000 who were interred or sent as forced labour elsewhere in the Reich. The homes and property left behind were taken over by Germans resettled in the city as the Germans fortified it as a Naval base and renamed the city Gotenhafen.  When the war ended many of those deportees who had survived the war returned on foot to try to find their loved ones and reclaim their homes.  The statue depicts a mother, her son and daughter with nothing more than a suitcase walking in the direction of the railway station as the daughter reaches out to her dog which she has been forced to leave behind. It was designed by Paweł Sasin and Adam Dziejowski was unveiled in October 2014. QN-1, Pl. Gdynian Wysiedlonych, Gdynia.

FATHER FA THER JAN KOWSKI S TA TATUE TUE A 3.7m tall statue dedicated to Father Henryk Jankowski, the chaplain of Solidarnosc (Solidarity), stands in a square named after the controversial priest and was unveiled in 2012 two years after his death. Born in 1936 in nearby Starogard Gdanski, Father Father Jankowski came to the fore during the strikes of the 1980s when he was the parish priest of the nearby St. Bridget’s church, which became the parish church of the Solidarnosc movement. Father Jankowski was a fearless and outspoken critic of the regime, a trait that carried on into post-communist times. He found himself in trouble with the new government for comments he made about the European Union and then with the Roman Catholic authorities who eventually banned him from preaching for a year in 1997 after a series of anti-Semitic comments made from the pulpit. Despite the controversy that surrounded him in his later years Father Jankowski retained many admirers (including local bakers the Pellowski family ) who organised a fund to create the statue you see today. The three crosses you see on the priest’s chest represent the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers found on Solidarity Square. Qul. Stolarska, Gdańsk. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The work of Danuta and Zdzisław Koseda and Wawrzyniec Samp, and unveiled in 1976, Gdynia’s tribute to Poland’s most famous sea-faring author (born Józef Teodor Konrad Korzeniowski, 1857 - 1924), who hailed from Berdychiv in what is now Ukraine and who as far as anyone can tell had no connections with Gdynia is a delightfully stylised monument. It’s one of only a few in the world dedicated to the great man, and the only to depict his likeness. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia.

JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT A statue dedicated to the man who is widely recognised as having been the key figure in Poland regaining her independence after after 123 years in 1918 and then preserving it by defeating the Red Army on their advance westward in August 1920 in what came to be known as the ‘Miracle on the Vistula’. Marshall Piłsudski distrusted Polish democracy, which he considered weak and corruptible, in the years following her independence and eventually took power by a coup in 1926. Despite ruling by what even supporters described as authoritarian methods, Piłsudski is still widely respected for his strong leadership in the nine years before his death in 1935 and his body is buried in the crypt of the royal castle of Wawel in Krakow. This 3.5 metre tall statue located outside of the Gdynia City Hall was designed by Stanisław Szwechowicz and was unveiled on November 10.QN-2, Al. Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego,, Gdynia.

MONUMENT TO THE EVACUATED CHILDREN Between 1938 and 1939 some 10,000 Jewish children were evacuated from Gdańsk to Britain in what became known as ‘kindertransports’. Sculptor Frank Meisler was one of them, and on May 6, 2009 his memorial to this exodus was unveiled outside Gdańsk Główny train station. QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie, Gdańsk.

Fay Healey, born Amszczanowska, one of the Kindertransport children

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TOUR GUIDES CITY TOUR GDAŃSK  A choice of tours through the old town in electric cars seating for 5, 7 and 13 people with audio guides available in English, Polish, Russian, German, Spanish, French and Italian. QB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 7/9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 504 45 88 68, www.citytourgdansk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Y

EASY GDAŃSK TOURS Specially tailored tours both on foot and in a car of Gdańsk and the neighbouring cities as well as Malbork and other popular places located around the Tri-city. Qtel. (+48) 790 78 00 32, www.easygdansktours.com.

GDANSK WITH US Walking tours led by two enthusiastic and qualified locally born tour guides. Both have worked in Scandinavia, hence Norwegian as well as English being a speciality. They’ll show you past and contemporary Gdańsk and can organise other specially tailored tours around Poland.Qtel. (+48) 781 18 71 11, www. gdanskwithus.com. Tour prices on request.

DISASTER AT SEA   The sinking of the Wilhelm Wilhelm Gustloff off on January 30, 1945 1945 rates as the worst maritime disaster in history. Originally used as a deluxe Nazi cruise liner, the vessel had been based in Gdynia for much of the war. With the Eastern Front collapsing, German Admiral Doenitz ordered the evacuation of German civilians and wounded troops from the Tri-City region. Overcrowded with refugees seeking safety from the advancing Red Army, the Gustloff limped out of the por t of the Gdynia apparently destined for either Rostock or Szczecin. Just minutes after relaying an address to the nation by Adolf Hitler, the Gustloff - named in memory of the assassinated leader leader of the Swiss Nazi party - was hit by three torpedoes from the Soviet submarine S-13. Within 50 minutes the 650foot vessel had sunk to the bottom of the Bay of GdaDsk. Freezing temperatures, overcrowding and a shortage of lifeboats meant that of the estimate estimatedd 10,000 passengers, only 500 survived; a figure that is seven times the number that died on the Titanic. Ignoring rules of engagement S-13 continued to fire torpedoes at rescue ships. The captain of the Gustloff, predictably, managed to scramble to safety. Today the ship lies 42 metres below the ocean surface, marked as a maritime grave. Following the war S-13’s captain, Alexander Marinesko, was awarded the honour of Hero of the Soviet Union. But in a final twist Marinesko fell out of favour with communist o fficials and was sentenced to hard labour in the Gulag after being caught selling bricks on the blackmarket. He died in 1963 a forgotten man. December 2015 - April 2016 79

Sightseeing BŁYSKAWICA  With the Treaty of Versailles Poland found itself a nation state once more, granted access to the sea via what was to become the infamous ‘Polish Corridor’. For the first time in a century Poland had coastline and her own waters, the only thing missing was a navy to guard it. Polish defensive bods designed a new fast attack class of destroyer, and the tender was won by the JS White firm based in Cowes on the Isle of Wight to build two such destroyers, the Błyskawica (Lightning), and a sister ship, ORP Grom (Thunder). Measuring 114 metres in length, powered by turbines rated at 54,000hp, armed to the teeth and boasting a top speed of 39 knots, these were to become the fastest destroyers in the world when launched in 1936. Both boats were spirited to England on the eve of war as part of the Peking Plan, where they came under the command of the British Royal Navy. Based in Cowes the Błyskawica saw action several times, including in the Mediterranean, Normandy and as an Atlantic convoy escort. However, her finest moment was to come in Cowes. Captained by Wojciech Francki, on the night of the 4th May 1942 the town came under attack from up to 160 Luftwaffe bombers. Anticipating an attack Capt. Francki had ensured the Błyskawica was well-armed, despite a ruling stating the vessel should have been decommissioned while in port. In a further breach of regulations Francki ordered his crew to fight off the waves of bombers, and what followed was a ferocious battle between sea and air. The heroic defence and the smokescreen that was lit were enough to thwart the Luftwaffe, and the captain and crew were hailed as the ‘saviours of Cowes’. Less forthcoming in their recognition were the pedants in the British Admiralty; conscious of condoning a blatant violation of the rules they sent a tight-lipped dispatch commending the good work done by Francki. At the end of the war the Błyskawica returned to Poland, though without its captain and many of its crew. Francki chose a new life in Australia, away from the suspicions and hostility of the new communist government, and it was a lead followed by many of his ratings. In 2004 the actions of the Błyskawica were formally acknowledged, and a plaque unveiled in the port of Cowes b y Francki’s daughter. daughter. The ship itself was retired from service in 1969, and has since served as a museum ship held in the sort of regard the Brits reserve for the HMS Victory. It’s the only ship to be awarded Poland’s highest military decoration, the Gold Cross of the Virtuti Militari Order. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 12, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 626 36 58, www.muzeummw.pl. Closed until the end of April. N

Sightseeing HAFFNER MONUMENT

MONUMENTS DISPLACED GDYNIAN MONUMENT

A monument to the French doctor (1777 - 1830) who came to Sopot while serving in Napoleon’s army. Once the fighting was over, Haffner returned and built a bathing complex, sanitorium and spa as well as the beginnings of Sopot’s signature pier. He is widely regarded as the founder of modern Sopot and he died here in 1830. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy, Sopot.

JOSEPH CONRAD MONUMENT

 This particularly emotive monument was created to remember those Gdynians deported from the city following the Nazi takeover in 1939. Estimates range from 120,000 to 170,000 people and included an estimated 30,000 who were interred or sent as forced labour elsewhere in the Reich. The homes and property left behind were taken over by Germans resettled in the city as the Germans fortified it as a Naval base and renamed the city Gotenhafen.  When the war ended many of those deportees who had survived the war returned on foot to try to find their loved ones and reclaim their homes.  The statue depicts a mother, her son and daughter with nothing more than a suitcase walking in the direction of the railway station as the daughter reaches out to her dog which she has been forced to leave behind. It was designed by Paweł Sasin and Adam Dziejowski was unveiled in October 2014. QN-1, Pl. Gdynian Wysiedlonych, Gdynia.

FATHER FA THER JAN KOWSKI S TA TATUE TUE A 3.7m tall statue dedicated to Father Henryk Jankowski, the chaplain of Solidarnosc (Solidarity), stands in a square named after the controversial priest and was unveiled in 2012 two years after his death. Born in 1936 in nearby Starogard Gdanski, Father Father Jankowski came to the fore during the strikes of the 1980s when he was the parish priest of the nearby St. Bridget’s church, which became the parish church of the Solidarnosc movement. Father Jankowski was a fearless and outspoken critic of the regime, a trait that carried on into post-communist times. He found himself in trouble with the new government for comments he made about the European Union and then with the Roman Catholic authorities who eventually banned him from preaching for a year in 1997 after a series of anti-Semitic comments made from the pulpit. Despite the controversy that surrounded him in his later years Father Jankowski retained many admirers (including local bakers the Pellowski family ) who organised a fund to create the statue you see today. The three crosses you see on the priest’s chest represent the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers found on Solidarity Square. Qul. Stolarska, Gdańsk.

78 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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 The work of Danuta and Zdzisław Koseda and Wawrzyniec Samp, and unveiled in 1976, Gdynia’s tribute to Poland’s most famous sea-faring author (born Józef Teodor Konrad Korzeniowski, 1857 - 1924), who hailed from Berdychiv in what is now Ukraine and who as far as anyone can tell had no connections with Gdynia is a delightfully stylised monument. It’s one of only a few in the world dedicated to the great man, and the only to depict his likeness. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia.

JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT A statue dedicated to the man who is widely recognised as having been the key figure in Poland regaining her independence after after 123 years in 1918 and then preserving it by defeating the Red Army on their advance westward in August 1920 in what came to be known as the ‘Miracle on the Vistula’. Marshall Piłsudski distrusted Polish democracy, which he considered weak and corruptible, in the years following her independence and eventually took power by a coup in 1926. Despite ruling by what even supporters described as authoritarian methods, Piłsudski is still widely respected for his strong leadership in the nine years before his death in 1935 and his body is buried in the crypt of the royal castle of Wawel in Krakow. This 3.5 metre tall statue located outside of the Gdynia City Hall was designed by Stanisław Szwechowicz and was unveiled on November 10.QN-2, Al. Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego,, Gdynia.

MONUMENT TO THE EVACUATED CHILDREN Between 1938 and 1939 some 10,000 Jewish children were evacuated from Gdańsk to Britain in what became known as ‘kindertransports’. Sculptor Frank Meisler was one of them, and on May 6, 2009 his memorial to this exodus was unveiled outside Gdańsk Główny train station. QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie, Gdańsk.

Fay Healey, born Amszczanowska, one of the Kindertransport children

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Sightseeing OLIWA CATHEDRAL

80 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CITY TOUR GDAŃSK  A choice of tours through the old town in electric cars seating for 5, 7 and 13 people with audio guides available in English, Polish, Russian, German, Spanish, French and Italian. QB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 7/9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 504 45 88 68, www.citytourgdansk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Y

EASY GDAŃSK TOURS Specially tailored tours both on foot and in a car of Gdańsk and the neighbouring cities as well as Malbork and other popular places located around the Tri-city. Qtel. (+48) 790 78 00 32, www.easygdansktours.com.

GDANSK WITH US Walking tours led by two enthusiastic and qualified locally born tour guides. Both have worked in Scandinavia, hence Norwegian as well as English being a speciality. They’ll show you past and contemporary Gdańsk and can organise other specially tailored tours around Poland.Qtel. (+48) 781 18 71 11, www. gdanskwithus.com. Tour prices on request.

DISASTER AT SEA   The sinking of the Wilhelm Wilhelm Gustloff off on January 30, 1945 1945 rates as the worst maritime disaster in history. Originally used as a deluxe Nazi cruise liner, the vessel had been based in Gdynia for much of the war. With the Eastern Front collapsing, German Admiral Doenitz ordered the evacuation of German civilians and wounded troops from the Tri-City region. Overcrowded with refugees seeking safety from the advancing Red Army, the Gustloff limped out of the por t of the Gdynia apparently destined for either Rostock or Szczecin. Just minutes after relaying an address to the nation by Adolf Hitler, the Gustloff - named in memory of the assassinated leader leader of the Swiss Nazi party - was hit by three torpedoes from the Soviet submarine S-13. Within 50 minutes the 650foot vessel had sunk to the bottom of the Bay of GdaDsk. Freezing temperatures, overcrowding and a shortage of lifeboats meant that of the estimate estimatedd 10,000 passengers, only 500 survived; a figure that is seven times the number that died on the Titanic. Ignoring rules of engagement S-13 continued to fire torpedoes at rescue ships. The captain of the Gustloff, predictably, managed to scramble to safety. Today the ship lies 42 metres below the ocean surface, marked as a maritime grave. Following the war S-13’s captain, Alexander Marinesko, was awarded the honour of Hero of the Soviet Union. But in a final twist Marinesko fell out of favour with communist o fficials and was sentenced to hard labour in the Gulag after being caught selling bricks on the blackmarket. He died in 1963 a forgotten man. December 2015 - April 2016 79

Sightseeing MUSEUMS AMBER MUSEUM

Oliwa’s towering Cathedral taking pride of place at the western end of Oliwa Park was originally built as a simple wooden structure in the 12th century, and it was only in 1224 that the brickwork was added. The year 1350 saw a half-wit kitchen boy accidentally start a fire that engulfed the whole building. Reconstruction began immediately, immediately, but in 1626 the building was again destroyed, this time by marauding Swedish soldiers. Not content with stealing its bells, altars and valuables, the Swedes kidnapped Oliwa’s hapless monks for good measure and in a twist of irony, it was in this very building that Poland and Sweden finally put the past behind them and signed a peace treaty in 1660. Built along a classic three-aisle design with a vaulted basilica and shaped in the form of the Latin cross, today’s interior is dominated by the extraordinary organ over the main entrance. Built between 1755 and 1780 by the organ master Johann Wulf, and at the time the largest organ of its type in Europe, it features moving cherubs, trumpet-playing angels and comes with a staggering 7,896 pipes and 110 registers allowing for an incredible range of pitch and sounds including rippling water, animal cries and human voices; hear it for yourself at the hours listed. A couple of other points of note are the memorial plague to inter-war Danzig bishop Edward O’Rourke found on the wall to the right as you enter from the main entrance and, at the other end of the church, a strange and beautiful canopy around the high altar, covered with stars and featuring 150 angels poking out of a mass of clouds. QE-1, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 47 65, www.archikatedraoliwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00, Organ recitals take place at the following times. December - March: Mon - Sat 12:00, Sun 15:00. April: Mon - Sat 11:00, 12:00, Sun 15:00, 16:00. Admission free unless visiting during a virtuoso organ performance (entry 4.50/2.50zl).

TOUR GUIDES

Housed in Gdańsk’s mediaeval Fore-gate building (once home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this multi-story exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic amber. The impressive collection of “inclusions” (when bugs or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at, and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses an impressive array of modern amber jewellery that appears more artistic than wearable. Many find the separate exhibits on the building’s past as a torture chamber uncomfortable - and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries, we understand why but they are a must-see, if for no other reason to find out what “thumb “thumb screwing”and a “heretic’s fork” are. The lower part of the building also housed the city’s courthouse from where convicted criminals would be sentenced to hang on the square outside. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit on the same day as a school group it’s a nightmare, but it’s well worth a visit nonetheless. In the summer months take advantage of the viewing platform in the tower. QB-4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 47 33, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Prison Tower) 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, under-16s 1zł. Tue free. Y

ARCHAEOLOGY EDUCATION CENTRE � “BŁĘKITNY LEW” Short of building a time machine this is the closest you’ll ever get to seeing what local life was like hundreds of years back. Set in the only granary building to have survived the bombing of WWII you can watch a interesting film, available in English showing the history of the island. Complete with background noises of peeling bells and animals braying, this museum presents a series of life-size dioramas designed to show what Gdańsk once must have been like. Among the recreations are a cobblers store, a bath house and an inn, and even the smells have been recreated and piped into the rooms. The mannequins aren’t exactly Madame Tussaud’s, Tussaud’s, but this is still loads of fun, and far removed from the standard museum experience in Poland. QD-5, ul. Chmielna 53, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 31 88, www.blekitnybaranek.pl. www.blekitnybaranek.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł. Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) 26zł. Guided tour 60zł. YU

CITY OF GDYNIA MUSEUM Impressively modern and well run, the City of Gdynia museum takes visitors through the chronological history of the town beginning with its origins as a fishing village through its evolution as an important international port during the inter-war years. Displays of fishing shanties and vintage diving suits bring these different periods to gdansk.inyourpocket.com

life, and photographs of the growing port and the ships that called it home emphasise the city’s maritime history.  The co llection of local independence fighter, Kashub ian Antoni Abraham gives you a look at the life of a man in the city around the start of the 20th century, while keepsakes from defunct hotels and old vessels mingle with faded documents and countless Navy uniforms. All of this really can keep visitors wandering for ages. The revolving temporary exhibits are equally as intriguing, such as one we saw that recounted the career of popular Polish filmmaker Krzysztof Kieślowski. Around back you can see a series of retired vessels belonging to the Naval Museum. QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admision 7/4zł. Family ticket 15zł. Kids under 7 free. N

DAR POMORZA  This three-masted Polish Polish training ship has visited visited 383 ports and travelled more than 800,000km in her time at sea. Constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German navy, she was after World War I given to the French who, in turn, gave her to an Englishman in French service.  The ship was subsequently bought by the Pomeranian National Fleet. Since 1972 she has taken part in numerous sailing competitions, winning the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. A year later she was bestowed the highest Polish State decoration: the order of Polonia Restituta. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23 71, www.nmm.pl. Closed for maintenance work. work. Re-open date not currently known. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Y

GDANSK HISTORY MUSEUM  The History of Gdansk museum calls the impressive Main  Town Hall home, a Gothic-Renaissance structure originally built in the 14th century and painstakingly repaired following World War II. Inside visitors immediately see the ornate Great Council Hall and Red Hall, the latter of which features an impressively-sized fireplace and lavish ceilings paintings, including The Glorification of the Unity of Gdansk. Subsequent rooms feature vintage 16th and 17th furniture and a sampling of the museum’s 600 silver pieces, which highlight Gdansk’s silversmithing era. The top floor of the museum features a delightful exhibit showcasing what life was like in everyday Gdansk right before the war - visitors get a glimpse into the homes and businesses of residents and see a period in time that was about to come to an abrupt end. The stairwell back to the main floor shows what happened to that lifestyle via stunning photographs of the complete levelling of the city at the hands of the Red Army. In between the old council chambers and the exhibition showing pre-war Gdansk is where temporary exhibitions are held. QC-4, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł, under16s 1zł. Tue free. Y facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

 ANNA WALENTYNOW WALENTYNOWICZ ICZ

ANNA WALENTYNOWICZ MONUMENT  This monument monument to the Solidarity activist whose dismissal smissal from the Lenin Shipyards on August 8, 1980 sparked the August strikes was conceived by the Godność (Dignity) organisation, designed by Stanislaw Milewski and largely paid for by Solidarity trade union members. It stands in a small square named in Walentynowicz’s honour next to the block of flats where she lived in later life. The inscription on its base is a famous line used during the fight against communism ‘There is no freedom without solidarity’QF-3, Skwer Anny Walentynowicz (Al. Grunwaldzka/ul. Waryńskiego), Gdańsk.

RYSZARD KUKLIŃSKI RYSZARDKUKLIŃSKI MONUMENT Ryszard Kuklinski was a colonel in the Polish Army during the Cold War era who began spying for the US in 1972. Over the next nine years he was to pass countless secrets to the CIA before he and his family were whisked out of the country on the eve of Martial Law being imposed in December 1981. In his absence he was sentenced to death by a Polish military court in 1984 but pardoned in 1995. He died in Florida in 2004 aged 73, but only after his two sons both died mysteriously in the US. Interestingly, even today he divides opinion among Poles about whether he was a hero or a traitor. This statue, the work of Tomasz Sobisz of the Academy of Fine Arts, was unveiled with military honours on September 17, 2015, the anniversary of the Soviet Union’s invasion of Poland in 1939. In 2013 a film about Kuklinski’s live was released entitled Jack Strong, his CIA codename. QN-2, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia. December 2015 - April 2016 81

Sightseeing OLIWA CATHEDRAL

Sightseeing MUSEUMS AMBER MUSEUM

Oliwa’s towering Cathedral taking pride of place at the western end of Oliwa Park was originally built as a simple wooden structure in the 12th century, and it was only in 1224 that the brickwork was added. The year 1350 saw a half-wit kitchen boy accidentally start a fire that engulfed the whole building. Reconstruction began immediately, immediately, but in 1626 the building was again destroyed, this time by marauding Swedish soldiers. Not content with stealing its bells, altars and valuables, the Swedes kidnapped Oliwa’s hapless monks for good measure and in a twist of irony, it was in this very building that Poland and Sweden finally put the past behind them and signed a peace treaty in 1660. Built along a classic three-aisle design with a vaulted basilica and shaped in the form of the Latin cross, today’s interior is dominated by the extraordinary organ over the main entrance. Built between 1755 and 1780 by the organ master Johann Wulf, and at the time the largest organ of its type in Europe, it features moving cherubs, trumpet-playing angels and comes with a staggering 7,896 pipes and 110 registers allowing for an incredible range of pitch and sounds including rippling water, animal cries and human voices; hear it for yourself at the hours listed. A couple of other points of note are the memorial plague to inter-war Danzig bishop Edward O’Rourke found on the wall to the right as you enter from the main entrance and, at the other end of the church, a strange and beautiful canopy around the high altar, covered with stars and featuring 150 angels poking out of a mass of clouds. QE-1, ul. Biskupa Edmunda Nowickiego 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 47 65, www.archikatedraoliwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00, Organ recitals take place at the following times. December - March: Mon - Sat 12:00, Sun 15:00. April: Mon - Sat 11:00, 12:00, Sun 15:00, 16:00. Admission free unless visiting during a virtuoso organ performance (entry 4.50/2.50zl).

Housed in Gdańsk’s mediaeval Fore-gate building (once home to the Prison Tower and Torture Chamber), this multi-story exhibit delves extensively into the history of Baltic amber. The impressive collection of “inclusions” (when bugs or plants are caught inside the amber) is intriguing to look at, and the many amber creations, from inkwells to spoons to a stunning Fender Stratocaster guitar, shows the material’s diversity. A large open room at the top of the building houses an impressive array of modern amber jewellery that appears more artistic than wearable. Many find the separate exhibits on the building’s past as a torture chamber uncomfortable - and considering the piped-in soundtrack of pained cries, we understand why but they are a must-see, if for no other reason to find out what “thumb “thumb screwing”and a “heretic’s fork” are. The lower part of the building also housed the city’s courthouse from where convicted criminals would be sentenced to hang on the square outside. Many of the exhibit rooms throughout the ancient building are small and cramped, and if you happen to visit on the same day as a school group it’s a nightmare, but it’s well worth a visit nonetheless. In the summer months take advantage of the viewing platform in the tower. QB-4, Targ Węglowy 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 47 33, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission (combined ticket with the Prison Tower) 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, under-16s 1zł. Tue free. Y

ARCHAEOLOGY EDUCATION CENTRE � “BŁĘKITNY LEW” Short of building a time machine this is the closest you’ll ever get to seeing what local life was like hundreds of years back. Set in the only granary building to have survived the bombing of WWII you can watch a interesting film, available in English showing the history of the island. Complete with background noises of peeling bells and animals braying, this museum presents a series of life-size dioramas designed to show what Gdańsk once must have been like. Among the recreations are a cobblers store, a bath house and an inn, and even the smells have been recreated and piped into the rooms. The mannequins aren’t exactly Madame Tussaud’s, Tussaud’s, but this is still loads of fun, and far removed from the standard museum experience in Poland. QD-5, ul. Chmielna 53, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 31 88, www.blekitnybaranek.pl. www.blekitnybaranek.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł. Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) 26zł. Guided tour 60zł. YU

CITY OF GDYNIA MUSEUM Impressively modern and well run, the City of Gdynia museum takes visitors through the chronological history of the town beginning with its origins as a fishing village through its evolution as an important international port during the inter-war years. Displays of fishing shanties and vintage diving suits bring these different periods to

80 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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life, and photographs of the growing port and the ships that called it home emphasise the city’s maritime history.  The co llection of local independence fighter, Kashub ian Antoni Abraham gives you a look at the life of a man in the city around the start of the 20th century, while keepsakes from defunct hotels and old vessels mingle with faded documents and countless Navy uniforms. All of this really can keep visitors wandering for ages. The revolving temporary exhibits are equally as intriguing, such as one we saw that recounted the career of popular Polish filmmaker Krzysztof Kieślowski. Around back you can see a series of retired vessels belonging to the Naval Museum. QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 662 09 10, www.muzeumgdynia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admision 7/4zł. Family ticket 15zł. Kids under 7 free. N

DAR POMORZA  This three-masted Polish Polish training ship has visited visited 383 ports and travelled more than 800,000km in her time at sea. Constructed in 1909 in Hamburg to train cadets for the German navy, she was after World War I given to the French who, in turn, gave her to an Englishman in French service.  The ship was subsequently bought by the Pomeranian National Fleet. Since 1972 she has taken part in numerous sailing competitions, winning the Cutty Sark Trophy in 1980. A year later she was bestowed the highest Polish State decoration: the order of Polonia Restituta. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II (Nabrzeże Pomorskie), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 23 71, www.nmm.pl. Closed for maintenance work. work. Re-open date not currently known. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Y

GDANSK HISTORY MUSEUM  The History of Gdansk museum calls the impressive Main  Town Hall home, a Gothic-Renaissance structure originally built in the 14th century and painstakingly repaired following World War II. Inside visitors immediately see the ornate Great Council Hall and Red Hall, the latter of which features an impressively-sized fireplace and lavish ceilings paintings, including The Glorification of the Unity of Gdansk. Subsequent rooms feature vintage 16th and 17th furniture and a sampling of the museum’s 600 silver pieces, which highlight Gdansk’s silversmithing era. The top floor of the museum features a delightful exhibit showcasing what life was like in everyday Gdansk right before the war - visitors get a glimpse into the homes and businesses of residents and see a period in time that was about to come to an abrupt end. The stairwell back to the main floor shows what happened to that lifestyle via stunning photographs of the complete levelling of the city at the hands of the Red Army. In between the old council chambers and the exhibition showing pre-war Gdansk is where temporary exhibitions are held. QC-4, ul. Długa 46/47, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 91 00, www.mhmg.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł, under16s 1zł. Tue free. Y facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Sightseeing EMIGRATION MUSEUM

EMIGRATION MUSEUM IN GDYNIA Opened in May, 2015, this a fascinating look at how, why and to where millions of Poles have emigrated over the centuries. With Poland thought to have the sixth largest diaspora in the world (the group is known as the Polonia and is thought to number over 20 million), the museum does an excellent job of explaining the various situations, political and economic, which have made people consistently leave Poland, to places like the USA, Australia and even Brazil.  The building which is the museum’s home is also particularly noteworthy. Located on the French Quay in Gdynia Port, the beautifully renovated Dworzec Morski (Marine Station) dates from the 1930s and is a wonderful example of the architecture that was in fashion as Gdynia expanded rapidly after WWI. The building became the main gateway to the world for Polish emigrants in the inter-war years.  The exhibition exhibition is set on the first floor of the the building ng and despite starting rather disappointingly (we have no idea what the displays in the silver thing outside the exhibition entrance are trying to achieve), it gets much, much better very quickly. You enter the exhibition to the music of the Polish national anthem with its line ‘Poland has not yet perished. As long as we still live’, which wonderfully sums up both the battered history of this country and the spirit which has kept it alive as a nation. Skip past the first displays and their practically illegible descriptions and then take your time to wander through the exhibition which includes some wonderful personal memories and stories. The exhibition is larger than it appears at first, so give yourself 2-3 hours to enjoy it without rushing. Highly recommended particularly if you are one of the Polonia, who incidentally the museum would like to hear from if you can contribute personal histories or items connected to your family’s emigration.  To get to to the museum take take bus number number 119 (weekdays (weekdays only), 133 or 147 (check that the destination is Dworzec Morski) from the main train station (bus stop is actually on ul. Jana z Kolna) or bus 137 from the Batory Shopping Mall on ul. Armii Krajowej. Alternatively a taxi will cost about 20zl or you can walk there in 20 minutes from the city centre. Qul. Polska 1 (Dworzec Morski), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Children under 7 free. 82 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 ANNA WALENTYNOW WALENTYNOWICZ ICZ

ANNA WALENTYNOWICZ MONUMENT  This monument monument to the Solidarity activist whose dismissal smissal from the Lenin Shipyards on August 8, 1980 sparked the August strikes was conceived by the Godność (Dignity) organisation, designed by Stanislaw Milewski and largely paid for by Solidarity trade union members. It stands in a small square named in Walentynowicz’s honour next to the block of flats where she lived in later life. The inscription on its base is a famous line used during the fight against communism ‘There is no freedom without solidarity’QF-3, Skwer Anny Walentynowicz (Al. Grunwaldzka/ul. Waryńskiego), Gdańsk.

RYSZARD KUKLIŃSKI RYSZARDKUKLIŃSKI MONUMENT Ryszard Kuklinski was a colonel in the Polish Army during the Cold War era who began spying for the US in 1972. Over the next nine years he was to pass countless secrets to the CIA before he and his family were whisked out of the country on the eve of Martial Law being imposed in December 1981. In his absence he was sentenced to death by a Polish military court in 1984 but pardoned in 1995. He died in Florida in 2004 aged 73, but only after his two sons both died mysteriously in the US. Interestingly, even today he divides opinion among Poles about whether he was a hero or a traitor. This statue, the work of Tomasz Sobisz of the Academy of Fine Arts, was unveiled with military honours on September 17, 2015, the anniversary of the Soviet Union’s invasion of Poland in 1939. In 2013 a film about Kuklinski’s live was released entitled Jack Strong, his CIA codename. QN-2, ul. I Armii Wojska Polskiego 10, Gdynia. December 2015 - April 2016 81

Sightseeing LECHIA GDANSK MUSEUM

ROMANESQUE CELLAR

Lechia Gdansk is most famously the local football team but the Lechia Gdansk club has representative teams in a multitude of sports. This museum is dedicated to all of these sports although it is the football club and their most famous era which always captures our attention. Despite coming from one of the country’s biggest cities, Lechia Gdansk have rarely troubled the trophy engravers over the decades since the club was re-activated here after the war having left its spiritual home of Lwow (now Lviv in Ukraine). Their biggest moment came in 1983 when they lifted the Polish Cup for the one time in their history, despite being a third-level side at the time. The following season they came up against the mighty Juventus in the European Cup-Winners’ Cup in a match that became the stuff of legend more for what the club and the fans represented rather than what happened on the pitch. If you like your football it’s worth a visit. If you like your history you’ll really enjoy it. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 58 768 84 01, www.lechia.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Mon closed. Admission 5/3zł.

 The original settlemen settlementt of Gdansk appears to have been around the area to the north of the current ‘Old Town’ close to the Covered Market Hall (Hala Targowa) and the Dominican church of St. Nicholas. Archaeologists had long suspected that the area would hold some clues as to earlier settlement of the area and were particularly keen to see if they could find evidence of the first Dominican church. Having come up with a blank in previous digs they finally hit gold in the area between the Covered Market Hall and the current church in 2005 when they discovered the foundations of the original church as well as vaults which were still in remarkably good condition. After years of work it is now possible to venture down into the vault which it is believed was used by monks at meal times while a fellow brother read passages of the bible to them. Of particular note is an ossuarium, a vault containing hundreds of bones from graves which had been cleared at some point in the past to permit expansion of the church. Also keep an eye out for the ancient brick in the vault with a cross carved into it. Ask the friendly lady on duty to put the English soundtrack on for you as you take the 20-30 minutes necessary to look at the vault and some of the relics discovered there. QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 508 81 65 02, www. piwnicaromanska.org. piwnicaromansk a.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, kids under 16 1zł, kids under 7 free. Sunday free.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OLD ART DEPARTMENT Located in a former Franciscan monastery, the National Museum is a work of art itself with vaulted ceilings and a large staircase that houses an impressive collection of equally beautiful objects. The main draw is Hans Memling’s highly detailed triptych The Final Judgment, which was returned to Gdańsk from the Russians in 1956 after a circuitous journey through the hands of Napoleonic troops and Nazis. Paintings showing pre-destruction Gdańsk and its wealthy residents as well as the work of Dutch artists in another room. The room of China dishes is still entirely in Polish, but worth a wander alo ng with the collections of ceramics, furniture and fabrics that dot the museum. QB-6, ul. Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From February open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Fri free. Y

NAVAL MUSEUM While the new building housing the museum is excellent the exhibition is not. Everything is in Polish and is presented in such a huge lump of text that no child, already disappointed by the lack of buttons to push and interactive displays to explore, is likely to get past the first few sentences. Wonderful stories such as that of the WWII submarine Orzel are mentioned only briefly while there is little context to what each of the many models of ship represent. The team of women, one sat on each floor reading a book, get up and wander behind you giving you the sense of being in a John Le Carre movie set in Cold War Europe. On the plus side the garden holds a collection of old planes and artillery including 18th century cannons; shells from the SchleswigHolstein (the ship that kicked off WWII), and a cannon recovered from a German U-boat sunk in Gdynia harbour in 1945. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 20zł. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

SOPOT FORT  Traces of human settlement settlement in the Sopot area date date back to the Stone Age, and ancient graves, spearheads and ceramics have all be uncovered in recent years. The most important archaeological find however was the unearthing of the remains of a fort, believed to have been used between the 8th and 14th century. Reconstructed in 2000 the current ‘castle’is ‘castle ’is thought to be an exact replica of the one that once stood here. A new museum and didactic pavilion opened in December 2011 and features a permanent exhibition entitled ‘The oldest history of Sopot’ (Najstarsze Dzieje Sopotu).QM-3, ul. Haffnera 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 66 00, www.archeologia.pl/grodziskosopot. www.archeologia.pl/grodziskosopot. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/6zł. Fri free. Y

SOPOT MUSEUM Occupying a building dating from 1903 this grand seaside villa once belonged to the influential Claaszen family. Now operating as the museum of Sopot this rambling mansion traces both the history of Sopot, and that of the Claaszen family, through a series of photographs, postcards and prints. Many rooms have been left as they were at the start of the century, filled with grandfather clocks, letters and glass cabinets hiding bone china sets and other family possessions. Unfortunately with much of the exhibition in Polish you will leave having gained little if any knowledge.  The museum also presents regularly changing temporary exhibitions.QM-5, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 22 66, www.muzeumsopotu.pl. www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Open 10:00 16:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Children under 16 1zł. Thu free. YN facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 83

Sightseeing EMIGRATION MUSEUM

EMIGRATION MUSEUM IN GDYNIA Opened in May, 2015, this a fascinating look at how, why and to where millions of Poles have emigrated over the centuries. With Poland thought to have the sixth largest diaspora in the world (the group is known as the Polonia and is thought to number over 20 million), the museum does an excellent job of explaining the various situations, political and economic, which have made people consistently leave Poland, to places like the USA, Australia and even Brazil.  The building which is the museum’s home is also particularly noteworthy. Located on the French Quay in Gdynia Port, the beautifully renovated Dworzec Morski (Marine Station) dates from the 1930s and is a wonderful example of the architecture that was in fashion as Gdynia expanded rapidly after WWI. The building became the main gateway to the world for Polish emigrants in the inter-war years.  The exhibition exhibition is set on the first floor of the the building ng and despite starting rather disappointingly (we have no idea what the displays in the silver thing outside the exhibition entrance are trying to achieve), it gets much, much better very quickly. You enter the exhibition to the music of the Polish national anthem with its line ‘Poland has not yet perished. As long as we still live’, which wonderfully sums up both the battered history of this country and the spirit which has kept it alive as a nation. Skip past the first displays and their practically illegible descriptions and then take your time to wander through the exhibition which includes some wonderful personal memories and stories. The exhibition is larger than it appears at first, so give yourself 2-3 hours to enjoy it without rushing. Highly recommended particularly if you are one of the Polonia, who incidentally the museum would like to hear from if you can contribute personal histories or items connected to your family’s emigration.  To get to to the museum take take bus number number 119 (weekdays (weekdays only), 133 or 147 (check that the destination is Dworzec Morski) from the main train station (bus stop is actually on ul. Jana z Kolna) or bus 137 from the Batory Shopping Mall on ul. Armii Krajowej. Alternatively a taxi will cost about 20zl or you can walk there in 20 minutes from the city centre. Qul. Polska 1 (Dworzec Morski), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 670 41 61, www.polska1.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Children under 7 free.

Sightseeing LECHIA GDANSK MUSEUM

ROMANESQUE CELLAR

Lechia Gdansk is most famously the local football team but the Lechia Gdansk club has representative teams in a multitude of sports. This museum is dedicated to all of these sports although it is the football club and their most famous era which always captures our attention. Despite coming from one of the country’s biggest cities, Lechia Gdansk have rarely troubled the trophy engravers over the decades since the club was re-activated here after the war having left its spiritual home of Lwow (now Lviv in Ukraine). Their biggest moment came in 1983 when they lifted the Polish Cup for the one time in their history, despite being a third-level side at the time. The following season they came up against the mighty Juventus in the European Cup-Winners’ Cup in a match that became the stuff of legend more for what the club and the fans represented rather than what happened on the pitch. If you like your football it’s worth a visit. If you like your history you’ll really enjoy it. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 58 768 84 01, www.lechia.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Mon closed. Admission 5/3zł.

 The original settlemen settlementt of Gdansk appears to have been around the area to the north of the current ‘Old Town’ close to the Covered Market Hall (Hala Targowa) and the Dominican church of St. Nicholas. Archaeologists had long suspected that the area would hold some clues as to earlier settlement of the area and were particularly keen to see if they could find evidence of the first Dominican church. Having come up with a blank in previous digs they finally hit gold in the area between the Covered Market Hall and the current church in 2005 when they discovered the foundations of the original church as well as vaults which were still in remarkably good condition. After years of work it is now possible to venture down into the vault which it is believed was used by monks at meal times while a fellow brother read passages of the bible to them. Of particular note is an ossuarium, a vault containing hundreds of bones from graves which had been cleared at some point in the past to permit expansion of the church. Also keep an eye out for the ancient brick in the vault with a cross carved into it. Ask the friendly lady on duty to put the English soundtrack on for you as you take the 20-30 minutes necessary to look at the vault and some of the relics discovered there. QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 508 81 65 02, www. piwnicaromanska.org. piwnicaromansk a.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, kids under 16 1zł, kids under 7 free. Sunday free.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OLD ART DEPARTMENT Located in a former Franciscan monastery, the National Museum is a work of art itself with vaulted ceilings and a large staircase that houses an impressive collection of equally beautiful objects. The main draw is Hans Memling’s highly detailed triptych The Final Judgment, which was returned to Gdańsk from the Russians in 1956 after a circuitous journey through the hands of Napoleonic troops and Nazis. Paintings showing pre-destruction Gdańsk and its wealthy residents as well as the work of Dutch artists in another room. The room of China dishes is still entirely in Polish, but worth a wander alo ng with the collections of ceramics, furniture and fabrics that dot the museum. QB-6, ul. Toruńska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 61 ext. 233, www.mng.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From February open 09:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6zł. Fri free. Y

NAVAL MUSEUM While the new building housing the museum is excellent the exhibition is not. Everything is in Polish and is presented in such a huge lump of text that no child, already disappointed by the lack of buttons to push and interactive displays to explore, is likely to get past the first few sentences. Wonderful stories such as that of the WWII submarine Orzel are mentioned only briefly while there is little context to what each of the many models of ship represent. The team of women, one sat on each floor reading a book, get up and wander behind you giving you the sense of being in a John Le Carre movie set in Cold War Europe. On the plus side the garden holds a collection of old planes and artillery including 18th century cannons; shells from the SchleswigHolstein (the ship that kicked off WWII), and a cannon recovered from a German U-boat sunk in Gdynia harbour in 1945. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. QO-2, ul. Zawiszy Czarnego 1b, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 13 81, www.muzeummw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 20zł.

82 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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SOPOT FORT  Traces of human settlement settlement in the Sopot area date date back to the Stone Age, and ancient graves, spearheads and ceramics have all be uncovered in recent years. The most important archaeological find however was the unearthing of the remains of a fort, believed to have been used between the 8th and 14th century. Reconstructed in 2000 the current ‘castle’is ‘castle ’is thought to be an exact replica of the one that once stood here. A new museum and didactic pavilion opened in December 2011 and features a permanent exhibition entitled ‘The oldest history of Sopot’ (Najstarsze Dzieje Sopotu).QM-3, ul. Haffnera 63, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 340 66 00, www.archeologia.pl/grodziskosopot. www.archeologia.pl/grodziskosopot. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/6zł. Fri free. Y

SOPOT MUSEUM Occupying a building dating from 1903 this grand seaside villa once belonged to the influential Claaszen family. Now operating as the museum of Sopot this rambling mansion traces both the history of Sopot, and that of the Claaszen family, through a series of photographs, postcards and prints. Many rooms have been left as they were at the start of the century, filled with grandfather clocks, letters and glass cabinets hiding bone china sets and other family possessions. Unfortunately with much of the exhibition in Polish you will leave having gained little if any knowledge.  The museum also presents regularly changing temporary exhibitions.QM-5, ul. Poniatowskiego 8, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 22 66, www.muzeumsopotu.pl. www.muzeumsopotu.pl. Open 10:00 16:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Children under 16 1zł. Thu free. YN December 2015 - April 2016 83

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Sightseeing NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Gdańsk’s National Maritime Museum is made up of four individual museums, including The Crane and the Sołdek ship, that together create a complete history of the port. Straddling both banks of the Motława, you can buy one ticket to all parts of the museum (23/15zł), which includes a ferry ride between the Crane and Maritime Cultural Centre on one side and the Soldek and National Maritime Museum on the other, or visit the parts and pay individually. The exhibitions in the Maritime Cultural Centre require additional payment. You You will need to book an exact time to visit the interactive exhibition ‘People, Ships, Ports’ which normally begins at the start of each hour.  Tickets for the ferry cost 1.50zł each each way and it also offers a handy shortcut for those looking to get to the other side of the river even if you’re not visiting the museum.

THE CRANE

Sightseeing MARITIME CULTURE CENTRE A new building in the shadow of Gdańsk’s crane is the modern setting for the Central Maritime Museum’s newest exhibition. Spread over 4 floors, kids will find the ‘People, Ships, Boats’ interactive displays of interest as they learn about the sea including how devastating tsunamis start while there is also a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World (Working Boats)’, which presents scores of small craft from all over the world, including Native American dugout canoes, a fabulous little English coracle and numerous small fishing and trade vessels from the Far East. The third floor currently houses an interesting temporary exhibition telling the stories and displaying the treasures recovered from local shipwrecks and a second call Statki Nasza Pasja (Ships. Our passion). There are plenty of good English descriptions plus the Restaurant Naprzod on the fourth floor which offers great photo opportunities of the river from its terrace. QD-4, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to the Interactive Exhibition ‘People, Ships, Boats 8/5zł. Family ticket (up to 2 adults and 3 children) 20zł. Admission to the ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World Exhibition and temporary exhibitions 6/4zł. YU

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

© Goldwasser

 The Crane is one of the defining symbols of Gdańsk and represents what little is left of the city’s great trading age. First mentioned in 1367 the original structure burnt down in 1442 before its current design was created in 1442-1444. As a working crane it was used to transfer cargoes and to put up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working crane in the world but it also served a defence function and as one of the gates to the city. It had a lifting capacity of 4 tonnes to a height of 11 metres and this was achieved by two huge wooden wheels at its heart each with a diameter of 6 metres.  These wheels were origina originally lly powered powered by menwalkinginside of them to turn the lifting mechanism. It remained a working crane until the middle of the 19th century and was 80% destroyed in 1945 in the battle for Gdańsk. After the war it was rebuilt and donated to the Polish Maritime Museum of which it remains a part today. You will be able to view a collection of permanent exhibitions inside including one on port life between the 16th and 18th centuries. In Polish only, displays include models of lighthouses, the old port, life-size recreations of counting houses and old port life in general plus access to the crane’s two huge drive-wheels. QD-4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Tickets available from the Maritime Cultural Centre next door. Y 84 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 The main part of the museum is located inside three Renaissance granaries and if you’ve only got time to visit one of the three museums this is by far the most comprehensive of the lot. A complete history of Poland’s nautical history is represented on several floors and includes old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall dedicated to underwater archaeology, shipbuilders’ hard hats from the Lenin shipyard, a few pieces of modern art and an extensive collection of model ships. Information is available in English. QD-4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Guided tours for groups of over 30 people 3 5zł. YU

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com SOŁDEK   The first steamship steamship built in Polish Gdańsk after 1945 at what was to become the Lenin Shipyards, the Sołdek has been turned into a living museum. Launched in 1948 this old ship was an ore collier before retiring to become a museum ship and just about every inch of it can be accessed from the cramped engine room to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in. QD-4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext. 327, www.nmm.pl. Closed for the winter. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Y gdansk.inyourpocket.com

PLACES OF INTEREST CROOKED HOUSE

Opened in 2004, the award winning, exceedingly higgledypiggledy building by Polish architects Szotyńscy Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin Szancer and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed object in Sopot, Centrum Rezydent’s 4,000m2 of luscious curves are topped with a roof of blue-green enamelled shingles designed to give the impression of a dragon. Filled with shops, bars, clubs and cafes, the building promises more from the outside than it actually delivers once you’ve entered. Do as the tourists do and take a souvenir picture before moving onto one of the other choices on the strip. QM-4, ul. Haffnera 6, Sopot.

MODERN HEROES Unveiled in 2012 in the Ronald Reagan park in the Przymorze district of Gdansk is a statue showing two of anti-Communism’s most high profile figures walking side by side in conversation. The statue shows how importantly Poles view these two men in their modern history. When Karol Wojtyla became Pope John Paul II in 1978, he visited his homeland and preached 32 sermons in 9 days creating what was described as a ‘psychological earthquake’. Always calling for compromise not conflict the Pope is recognised as having blown new life into the struggle when he came to Gdansk in 1987. Reagan on the other hand is the US President who very visibly lent the Polish people his support, famously leaving a lit candle in the window of the White House at Christmas 1981, just after the communist regime had implemented Martial Law. His strong opposition to communism and combative tactics combined with the Pope’s gentle but firm diplomacy are seen by Poles as key to communism collapsing.  The metal figures, which are both literally larger than life at over 2 metres tall, were conceived and funded by donations to the “Godność” (Dignity) Association and are modelled on a famous photograph taken by Scott Stewart of the Associated Press when the Pope and President Reagan met in Miami in 1987. The engraving in Polish reads ‘Grateful for the independence of Poles’. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

GRANARY ISLAND �WYSPA SPICHRZÓW�  These granaries granaries - no more than than a skeletal skeletal set of ruined ruined brick walls today - were the most important source of income for Gdańsk in the 16th century, contributing to its status as the largest Baltic harbour and one of Europe’s richest cities. Over 300 granaries, with names like Gloria and Bear Dance serviced over 200 ships, supplying 300, 000 tonnes of grain a year. For years plans to restore the ruined granaries repeatedly stalled, though a new embankment around the island has opened it up to the public again and it’s been announced work on a new development hotel/residential development will begin in the autumn of 2016. For the moment the island remains a moving reminder of the devastation of WWII and we hope that at least some of the ruins might be retained in a memorial park as a reminder like the bombed out Kaiser Wilhelm Church has been in Berlin’s Kurfurstendamm.QC-6/D-4.

GREAT ARMOURY �WIELKA ZBROJOWNIA�  The Great Armoury was built in 1600-09 on the medieval line of the city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800’s, the armoury remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. It was designed by Opberghen and is the most impressive of his works in Gdańsk. The welllike structure in front was used as an elevator to transport gunpowder and cannon balls from their storage place in the basement. The armoury was badly damaged in WWII and had to be completely rebuilt and its only in recent years that it has regained its former glory following a spell during which it even placed host to a supermarket. Unfortunately, aside from the odd exhibition, the doors remain bolted shut.QB-4, Targ Węglowy 6, Gdańsk.

GREAT MILL �WIELKI MŁYN� Built by the Teutonic Knights in 1350, this magnificent edifice with its rising tiled roof is the grandest civil construction in Gdańsk. Until 1356 when the Radunia Canal was built, the mill was powered by slaves turning 18 huge wheels. It was the largest industrial plant in Europe during the Middle Ages and functioned until the end of WWII. Unfortunately, this treasure has since been turned into a shopping centre. At least there’s a small exhibition of old equipment from the mill. The surrounding grain and flour stores, dating to 1400, are home to a few small shops. QB-3, ul. Wielkie Młyny 16, Gdańsk.

PIER Sopot’s pier provides stunning views of the sea by day and night. The pier was built in 1827 by a doctor in Napoleon’s army and has been renovated several times. At 511m, it’s the longest in the Baltic region and the longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea is the longest overall in case you were wondering). A spa garden with rounded pergolas and a fountain marks the entrance to the pier, from which a sandy beach stretches to either side. The pier was re-opened to its full length in July 2011 with the completion of a brand new marina at its tip as well as the construction of a restaurant and a raised viewing platform. QM-4, www.molo.sopot.pl. December 2015 - April 2016 85

Sightseeing NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Gdańsk’s National Maritime Museum is made up of four individual museums, including The Crane and the Sołdek ship, that together create a complete history of the port. Straddling both banks of the Motława, you can buy one ticket to all parts of the museum (23/15zł), which includes a ferry ride between the Crane and Maritime Cultural Centre on one side and the Soldek and National Maritime Museum on the other, or visit the parts and pay individually. The exhibitions in the Maritime Cultural Centre require additional payment. You You will need to book an exact time to visit the interactive exhibition ‘People, Ships, Ports’ which normally begins at the start of each hour.  Tickets for the ferry cost 1.50zł each each way and it also offers a handy shortcut for those looking to get to the other side of the river even if you’re not visiting the museum.

THE CRANE

Sightseeing MARITIME CULTURE CENTRE A new building in the shadow of Gdańsk’s crane is the modern setting for the Central Maritime Museum’s newest exhibition. Spread over 4 floors, kids will find the ‘People, Ships, Boats’ interactive displays of interest as they learn about the sea including how devastating tsunamis start while there is also a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World (Working Boats)’, which presents scores of small craft from all over the world, including Native American dugout canoes, a fabulous little English coracle and numerous small fishing and trade vessels from the Far East. The third floor currently houses an interesting temporary exhibition telling the stories and displaying the treasures recovered from local shipwrecks and a second call Statki Nasza Pasja (Ships. Our passion). There are plenty of good English descriptions plus the Restaurant Naprzod on the fourth floor which offers great photo opportunities of the river from its terrace. QD-4, ul. Tokarska 21-25 (entrance from ul. Długie Pobrzeże), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to the Interactive Exhibition ‘People, Ships, Boats 8/5zł. Family ticket (up to 2 adults and 3 children) 20zł. Admission to the ‘Boats of the Peoples of the World Exhibition and temporary exhibitions 6/4zł. YU

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

© Goldwasser

 The Crane is one of the defining symbols of Gdańsk and represents what little is left of the city’s great trading age. First mentioned in 1367 the original structure burnt down in 1442 before its current design was created in 1442-1444. As a working crane it was used to transfer cargoes and to put up masts on ships. At one time this was the biggest working crane in the world but it also served a defence function and as one of the gates to the city. It had a lifting capacity of 4 tonnes to a height of 11 metres and this was achieved by two huge wooden wheels at its heart each with a diameter of 6 metres.  These wheels were origina originally lly powered powered by menwalkinginside of them to turn the lifting mechanism. It remained a working crane until the middle of the 19th century and was 80% destroyed in 1945 in the battle for Gdańsk. After the war it was rebuilt and donated to the Polish Maritime Museum of which it remains a part today. You will be able to view a collection of permanent exhibitions inside including one on port life between the 16th and 18th centuries. In Polish only, displays include models of lighthouses, the old port, life-size recreations of counting houses and old port life in general plus access to the crane’s two huge drive-wheels. QD-4, ul. Szeroka 67/68, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 69 38, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Tickets available from the Maritime Cultural Centre next door. Y 84 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 The main part of the museum is located inside three Renaissance granaries and if you’ve only got time to visit one of the three museums this is by far the most comprehensive of the lot. A complete history of Poland’s nautical history is represented on several floors and includes old cannons, huge oil paintings, harpoon guns, a hall dedicated to underwater archaeology, shipbuilders’ hard hats from the Lenin shipyard, a few pieces of modern art and an extensive collection of model ships. Information is available in English. QD-4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11, www.nmm.pl. Open 10:00 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Guided tours for groups of over 30 people 3 5zł. YU

Full contents online: gdansk.inyourpocket.com SOŁDEK   The first steamship steamship built in Polish Gdańsk after 1945 at what was to become the Lenin Shipyards, the Sołdek has been turned into a living museum. Launched in 1948 this old ship was an ore collier before retiring to become a museum ship and just about every inch of it can be accessed from the cramped engine room to the bridge to the pokey little cabins the crews lived in. QD-4, ul. Ołowianka 9-13, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 86 11 ext. 327, www.nmm.pl. Closed for the winter. Admission 8/5zł. Under-16s 1zł. Y gdansk.inyourpocket.com

PLACES OF INTEREST CROOKED HOUSE

Opened in 2004, the award winning, exceedingly higgledypiggledy building by Polish architects Szotyńscy Zaleski was inspired by the fairytale illustrations of Jan Marcin Szancer and the drawings of the Swedish artist and Sopot resident Per Dahlberg. The most photographed object in Sopot, Centrum Rezydent’s 4,000m2 of luscious curves are topped with a roof of blue-green enamelled shingles designed to give the impression of a dragon. Filled with shops, bars, clubs and cafes, the building promises more from the outside than it actually delivers once you’ve entered. Do as the tourists do and take a souvenir picture before moving onto one of the other choices on the strip. QM-4, ul. Haffnera 6, Sopot.

MODERN HEROES Unveiled in 2012 in the Ronald Reagan park in the Przymorze district of Gdansk is a statue showing two of anti-Communism’s most high profile figures walking side by side in conversation. The statue shows how importantly Poles view these two men in their modern history. When Karol Wojtyla became Pope John Paul II in 1978, he visited his homeland and preached 32 sermons in 9 days creating what was described as a ‘psychological earthquake’. Always calling for compromise not conflict the Pope is recognised as having blown new life into the struggle when he came to Gdansk in 1987. Reagan on the other hand is the US President who very visibly lent the Polish people his support, famously leaving a lit candle in the window of the White House at Christmas 1981, just after the communist regime had implemented Martial Law. His strong opposition to communism and combative tactics combined with the Pope’s gentle but firm diplomacy are seen by Poles as key to communism collapsing.  The metal figures, which are both literally larger than life at over 2 metres tall, were conceived and funded by donations to the “Godność” (Dignity) Association and are modelled on a famous photograph taken by Scott Stewart of the Associated Press when the Pope and President Reagan met in Miami in 1987. The engraving in Polish reads ‘Grateful for the independence of Poles’. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

GRANARY ISLAND �WYSPA SPICHRZÓW�  These granaries granaries - no more than than a skeletal skeletal set of ruined ruined brick walls today - were the most important source of income for Gdańsk in the 16th century, contributing to its status as the largest Baltic harbour and one of Europe’s richest cities. Over 300 granaries, with names like Gloria and Bear Dance serviced over 200 ships, supplying 300, 000 tonnes of grain a year. For years plans to restore the ruined granaries repeatedly stalled, though a new embankment around the island has opened it up to the public again and it’s been announced work on a new development hotel/residential development will begin in the autumn of 2016. For the moment the island remains a moving reminder of the devastation of WWII and we hope that at least some of the ruins might be retained in a memorial park as a reminder like the bombed out Kaiser Wilhelm Church has been in Berlin’s Kurfurstendamm.QC-6/D-4.

GREAT ARMOURY �WIELKA ZBROJOWNIA�  The Great Armoury was built in 1600-09 on the medieval line of the city walls. A working arsenal until the 1800’s, the armoury remains the finest example of Renaissance architecture in the city. It was designed by Opberghen and is the most impressive of his works in Gdańsk. The welllike structure in front was used as an elevator to transport gunpowder and cannon balls from their storage place in the basement. The armoury was badly damaged in WWII and had to be completely rebuilt and its only in recent years that it has regained its former glory following a spell during which it even placed host to a supermarket. Unfortunately, aside from the odd exhibition, the doors remain bolted shut.QB-4, Targ Węglowy 6, Gdańsk.

GREAT MILL �WIELKI MŁYN� Built by the Teutonic Knights in 1350, this magnificent edifice with its rising tiled roof is the grandest civil construction in Gdańsk. Until 1356 when the Radunia Canal was built, the mill was powered by slaves turning 18 huge wheels. It was the largest industrial plant in Europe during the Middle Ages and functioned until the end of WWII. Unfortunately, this treasure has since been turned into a shopping centre. At least there’s a small exhibition of old equipment from the mill. The surrounding grain and flour stores, dating to 1400, are home to a few small shops. QB-3, ul. Wielkie Młyny 16, Gdańsk.

PIER Sopot’s pier provides stunning views of the sea by day and night. The pier was built in 1827 by a doctor in Napoleon’s army and has been renovated several times. At 511m, it’s the longest in the Baltic region and the longest wooden pier in Europe (Southend-on-Sea is the longest overall in case you were wondering). A spa garden with rounded pergolas and a fountain marks the entrance to the pier, from which a sandy beach stretches to either side. The pier was re-opened to its full length in July 2011 with the completion of a brand new marina at its tip as well as the construction of a restaurant and a raised viewing platform. QM-4, www.molo.sopot.pl. December 2015 - April 2016 85

Hevelius

Hevelius  ASTRONOMICAL  ASTRONOMICAL  ACHIEVEMENTS  ACHIEVEMEN TS

When talking about Gdansk’s most famous resident, you not only have to decide which name to use - Johannes Hevelius if you’re German or Jan Heweliusz in Polish - but how exactly to credit him first. As a popular brewer? A successful astronomer? A prolific inventor? The onetime mayor of Gdansk? The Da Vinci of Poland? Described by one local publication on the 400th anniversary of his birth as Gdansk’s “Man “Man of the millennium” Hevelius had a rich and fascinating life most of which he spent here in this city.

 A LIFE IN GDANSK Born in Gdansk in 1611 into a wealthy German-speaking family, Hevelius was one of three brothers and six sisters and the only male child to make it to adulthood. The German- Czech children of Abraham Howelcke and Kordula Hecker had a privileged upbringing, and Hevelius was sent to Gymnasium at the age of seven. Encouraged by tutor Peter Cruger, the young Johannes had an early fascination with mathematics and astronomy which carried on past his studying law in Holland when he travelled around Europe meeting leading astronomers.  This came to an end when his parents summoned him home to take over the family brewery. Hevelius married Katherine Rebeschke, the daughter of a neighbouring brewing family, in 1635 and embraced the family tradition of brewing beer. Yet despite his devotion to beer (Hevelius helmed the local brewing guild), the pull of astronomy was one he could not ignore. 86 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 The combination of an eclipse o f the sun in 1639 and the pleas of his former teacher, Peter Cruger, to resume his interest in the stars inspired Hevelius to take up his former hobby once again. In 1641 he constructed an observatory on the roof of his home where he worked on creating instruments for the study of astronomy that quickly outpaced anything seen in Europe - including a 150-foot telescope built on the shore of the Baltic Sea. Hevelius quickly became a master of his science, discovering numerous constellations and comets, extensively documenting ng the topography of the moon, and observing the phases of mercury and spots on the sun. These discoveries and observations led Hevelius to publish 20 works in Latin detailing his findings, many using his own well-crafted illustrations. Unsurprisingly, Hevelius’s work and stunning observatory caught the attention of his peers, and he was elected to the Royal Society of London in 1664 (the first Pole in the Society’s history). He also received a visit from Edmund Halley, discoverer of Halley’s Comet, who sought to compare Hevelius’s use of a sextant with open sights to the use of a sextant with telescopic sights. The winner? Hevelius proved he could assess star positions without a telescope as easily (and accurately) as Halley could with.  Throughout his work in astronomy astronomy Hevelius us was also also heavily involved in municipal matters in Gdansk. In 1640 he became the church administrator at St.Catherine’s Church, and served for a decade as a court juror. And from 1651 until his death, Hevelius was a councillor for the city of Gdansk. Despite his many roles in the town and running a successful brewery, paying for his research required Hevelius to seek the patronage of Polish kings and queens in order to gain financial support. King Jan Kazimierz and Queen Maria Ludwika were the first royalty to visit the observatory, and King Jan III Sobieski the first to give Hevelius a permanent annual salary for his work - - which might explain why Hevelius named a constellation “Scutum Sobiescianum” (Sobieski’s shield). Hevelius also drew an annual salary from the French King Louis XIV. In 1662 he lost his long-time wife Katherine, who for many years had run the family brewing business so her husband could focus on astronomy. A year later the 52-year-old Hevelius married 16-year-old Elizabeth Koopman, who quickly became a partner and ally in Hevelius’work (many consider Koopman to be the first female astronomer and “the mother of moon charts”). In between giving birth to four children she managed the observatory and, following his death, completed their jointly created catalogue of 1,564 stars called Prodromus astronomae.  Tragedy struck the family again when a fire ravaged the observatory in 1679; all of Hevelius’s instruments instruments and tools were destroyed in the blaze. Though he quickly repaired the space in time to observe the great comet of 1680 (and named the constellation Sextans in honour of his destroyed instruments) his health was permanently damaged by the shock of the disaster and Hevelius died on his 76th birthday in 1687. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

HEVELIUS’S HOME & BREWERY Following Hevelius’s marriage in 1635 to his neighbour Katherine Rebeschke, he took over a pair of tenement houses and a brewery which came to him as part of his new-wife’s dowry. This property expanded in 1649 when Hevelius inherited his family’s adjacent house and brewery following his father’s death, the new property covering an area which filled most of the space between (B-2/3) Korzenna, Bednarska and Zawrotna. The property would have consisted of the living quarters at the front, brewery to the rear and ultimately ultimat ely Hevelius’ observatory on the roof. The Hevelius family was to live and work here for many decades and the property is thought to have remained in the family until the start of the 19th century. Photographs taken over a hundred years later suggest parts of the structure from Hevelius’ time still existed but these, like much of the surrounding city were destroyed in the fall of Danzig in 1945. Despite attempts to re-create the tenements in the 1950s, the ruins were finally pulled down and a new residential block built on the site, a building which today awaits renovation. While many sources quote the address of the Hevelius home and brewery as 53-55 Korzenna today you will find them allocated different numbers on the same street. A unkempt plaque denotes the spot where the great man once worked and lived. QB-2, ul. Korzenna 2/4/6 (corner of ul. Heweliusza), Gdańsk.

JOHANNES HEVELIUS MONUMENT  This statue was designed by Jan Szczypka and unveiled on January 28th 2006, the 395th anniversary of his birth in the gardens dedicated to him opposite the Old  Town Hall. Hevelius is widely regarded as the last great astronomer to work without lenses and instead made many of his discoveries using a quadrant and alidade, tools he is depicted with here as he stares up at a wonderful recreation of his work on an adjacent surviving pre-war building.QB-3, ul. Korzenna, Gdańsk.

the ceiling collapsing, work to restore the church took a number of years. A fairly spartan scene, the highlight is a 76 metre baroque tower housing a 49-bell carillon, which has chimed on the hour - every hour - since the 50th anniversary of the outbreak of WWII in 1939. The tower contains a small museum dedicated to clock towers but this is only open to the public in the summer. QC-3, ul. Profesorska 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 15 95, www. gdansk.karmelici.pl. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00 only.

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH Near the Motława River between ul. Świętojańska and ul. Straganiarska you’ll find this huge brick vault dating from the 1300s and the church in which Johannes Hevelius was christened in 1611. Having had the misfortune to have been built on swampland, what remains of the edifice was slowly sinking on one side although work in recent years has tried to shore it up. Though it was burnt and completely abandoned after WWII, it’s recently been the subject of a huge clean-up that should see it return to being one of the great landmarks of Gdańsk. While many of the interior fittings have been moved to St. Mary’s its famous 12 metre high renaissance altar remains as do a number of tombs and gravestones which give you a good idea of the city’s multi-cultural history. It now regularly plays host to exhibitions and is a superb concert venue thanks to the building’s unique acoustics which make it one of the most haunting venues in the city. QD-3, ul. Świętojańska 50, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.sw-jan.vn.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.

UL. PIWNA �PIWNA STREET� You can also wander along streets that were important in the life of Hevelius. Beers fans will enjoy a walk down Gdansk’s ulica Piwna, which was once named Jopengasse after the popular Hevelius-made Jopenbier brand. QB/C-4.

OLD TOWN HALL  This marvellous 16th-century Renaissance building was once home to th e office of Heveliu s in his role as an O ld  Town Council Council Lord. The The former headquarters headquarters of the Council of Gdańsk, the Old Town Hall served as the headquarters of the Soviet Army during the dying days of WWII, probably because it was practically the only building left standing in the city at the time. Today Today the building is open to the public and has become the focus of much creativity. Concerts are held upstairs, and the superb Baltic Sea Cultural Centre (see Culture & Events ) now have their offi ces there. There’s also a cellar restaurant, and a good bookshop on the ground floor. QB-3, ul. Korzenna 33/35, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.nck.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH  This 14th century brick church, the former parish church of the Old Town and where Hevelius was once church administrator, is also his final resting place. You will find his tomb at the rear behind the altar along with an epitaph funded by his grandson nearly 100 years after the great man’s death. Following a fire in 2006, which resulted in facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 87

Hevelius

Hevelius  ASTRONOMICAL  ASTRONOMICAL  ACHIEVEMENTS  ACHIEVEMEN TS

When talking about Gdansk’s most famous resident, you not only have to decide which name to use - Johannes Hevelius if you’re German or Jan Heweliusz in Polish - but how exactly to credit him first. As a popular brewer? A successful astronomer? A prolific inventor? The onetime mayor of Gdansk? The Da Vinci of Poland? Described by one local publication on the 400th anniversary of his birth as Gdansk’s “Man “Man of the millennium” Hevelius had a rich and fascinating life most of which he spent here in this city.

 A LIFE IN GDANSK Born in Gdansk in 1611 into a wealthy German-speaking family, Hevelius was one of three brothers and six sisters and the only male child to make it to adulthood. The German- Czech children of Abraham Howelcke and Kordula Hecker had a privileged upbringing, and Hevelius was sent to Gymnasium at the age of seven. Encouraged by tutor Peter Cruger, the young Johannes had an early fascination with mathematics and astronomy which carried on past his studying law in Holland when he travelled around Europe meeting leading astronomers.  This came to an end when his parents summoned him home to take over the family brewery. Hevelius married Katherine Rebeschke, the daughter of a neighbouring brewing family, in 1635 and embraced the family tradition of brewing beer. Yet despite his devotion to beer (Hevelius helmed the local brewing guild), the pull of astronomy was one he could not ignore. 86 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 The combination of an eclipse o f the sun in 1639 and the pleas of his former teacher, Peter Cruger, to resume his interest in the stars inspired Hevelius to take up his former hobby once again. In 1641 he constructed an observatory on the roof of his home where he worked on creating instruments for the study of astronomy that quickly outpaced anything seen in Europe - including a 150-foot telescope built on the shore of the Baltic Sea. Hevelius quickly became a master of his science, discovering numerous constellations and comets, extensively documenting ng the topography of the moon, and observing the phases of mercury and spots on the sun. These discoveries and observations led Hevelius to publish 20 works in Latin detailing his findings, many using his own well-crafted illustrations. Unsurprisingly, Hevelius’s work and stunning observatory caught the attention of his peers, and he was elected to the Royal Society of London in 1664 (the first Pole in the Society’s history). He also received a visit from Edmund Halley, discoverer of Halley’s Comet, who sought to compare Hevelius’s use of a sextant with open sights to the use of a sextant with telescopic sights. The winner? Hevelius proved he could assess star positions without a telescope as easily (and accurately) as Halley could with.  Throughout his work in astronomy astronomy Hevelius us was also also heavily involved in municipal matters in Gdansk. In 1640 he became the church administrator at St.Catherine’s Church, and served for a decade as a court juror. And from 1651 until his death, Hevelius was a councillor for the city of Gdansk. Despite his many roles in the town and running a successful brewery, paying for his research required Hevelius to seek the patronage of Polish kings and queens in order to gain financial support. King Jan Kazimierz and Queen Maria Ludwika were the first royalty to visit the observatory, and King Jan III Sobieski the first to give Hevelius a permanent annual salary for his work - - which might explain why Hevelius named a constellation “Scutum Sobiescianum” (Sobieski’s shield). Hevelius also drew an annual salary from the French King Louis XIV. In 1662 he lost his long-time wife Katherine, who for many years had run the family brewing business so her husband could focus on astronomy. A year later the 52-year-old Hevelius married 16-year-old Elizabeth Koopman, who quickly became a partner and ally in Hevelius’work (many consider Koopman to be the first female astronomer and “the mother of moon charts”). In between giving birth to four children she managed the observatory and, following his death, completed their jointly created catalogue of 1,564 stars called Prodromus astronomae.  Tragedy struck the family again when a fire ravaged the observatory in 1679; all of Hevelius’s instruments instruments and tools were destroyed in the blaze. Though he quickly repaired the space in time to observe the great comet of 1680 (and named the constellation Sextans in honour of his destroyed instruments) his health was permanently damaged by the shock of the disaster and Hevelius died on his 76th birthday in 1687. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

HEVELIUS’S HOME & BREWERY Following Hevelius’s marriage in 1635 to his neighbour Katherine Rebeschke, he took over a pair of tenement houses and a brewery which came to him as part of his new-wife’s dowry. This property expanded in 1649 when Hevelius inherited his family’s adjacent house and brewery following his father’s death, the new property covering an area which filled most of the space between (B-2/3) Korzenna, Bednarska and Zawrotna. The property would have consisted of the living quarters at the front, brewery to the rear and ultimately ultimat ely Hevelius’ observatory on the roof. The Hevelius family was to live and work here for many decades and the property is thought to have remained in the family until the start of the 19th century. Photographs taken over a hundred years later suggest parts of the structure from Hevelius’ time still existed but these, like much of the surrounding city were destroyed in the fall of Danzig in 1945. Despite attempts to re-create the tenements in the 1950s, the ruins were finally pulled down and a new residential block built on the site, a building which today awaits renovation. While many sources quote the address of the Hevelius home and brewery as 53-55 Korzenna today you will find them allocated different numbers on the same street. A unkempt plaque denotes the spot where the great man once worked and lived. QB-2, ul. Korzenna 2/4/6 (corner of ul. Heweliusza), Gdańsk.

JOHANNES HEVELIUS MONUMENT  This statue was designed by Jan Szczypka and unveiled on January 28th 2006, the 395th anniversary of his birth in the gardens dedicated to him opposite the Old  Town Hall. Hevelius is widely regarded as the last great astronomer to work without lenses and instead made many of his discoveries using a quadrant and alidade, tools he is depicted with here as he stares up at a wonderful recreation of his work on an adjacent surviving pre-war building.QB-3, ul. Korzenna, Gdańsk.

Danzig Senate

Courtesyof WojciechGruszczyński,www.danzig-online.pl 

HISTORY In 1918 Poland had existed in memory only for over a century (123 years to be exact) since the Third Partition of 1795 imposed by her powerful neighbours saw Poland’s territories carved up between Prussian, Habsburg and Russian empires. Gdansk/Danzig found herself in the Prussian partition, then briefly functioning as a Free City and later becoming part of the German Empire. The end of WWI brought with it a house-of-cards collapse, and a new independent Polish republic was established on the back of this redress of power. Gdansk/Danzig became a huge sticking point at the Versailles negotiations with both Germany and Poland arguing strongly that the city with its port ought to be put under their control. With agreement impossible, Germany in no position to rebuild the devastated local economy because of the paralysing effect of the war reparations and the League of Nations both wary the city contained a large German speaking population and fearful the Poles might go ‘Red’like the Russians, a hashed together compromise saw the city instead designated as a Free City State. It was placed under the Protectorate of the League of Nations who appointed a High Commissioner to oversee its running. Thus on January 10th, 1920, Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig or Wolne Miasto Gdańsk in Polish) came into being.

FROM STARVATION TO PROSPERITY  To call what had been created a city, however, is a bit of a misnomer. The area falling into the sphere of the Free City actually consisted of a sizeable area - covering land of nearly 2,000 square kilometres it comprised of 252 villages, as 88 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ST. JOHN’S CHURCH Near the Motława River between ul. Świętojańska and ul. Straganiarska you’ll find this huge brick vault dating from the 1300s and the church in which Johannes Hevelius was christened in 1611. Having had the misfortune to have been built on swampland, what remains of the edifice was slowly sinking on one side although work in recent years has tried to shore it up. Though it was burnt and completely abandoned after WWII, it’s recently been the subject of a huge clean-up that should see it return to being one of the great landmarks of Gdańsk. While many of the interior fittings have been moved to St. Mary’s its famous 12 metre high renaissance altar remains as do a number of tombs and gravestones which give you a good idea of the city’s multi-cultural history. It now regularly plays host to exhibitions and is a superb concert venue thanks to the building’s unique acoustics which make it one of the most haunting venues in the city. QD-3, ul. Świętojańska 50, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.sw-jan.vn.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.

UL. PIWNA �PIWNA STREET� You can also wander along streets that were important in the life of Hevelius. Beers fans will enjoy a walk down Gdansk’s ulica Piwna, which was once named Jopengasse after the popular Hevelius-made Jopenbier brand. QB/C-4.

OLD TOWN HALL  This marvellous 16th-century Renaissance building was once home to th e office of Heveliu s in his role as an O ld  Town Council Council Lord. The The former headquarters headquarters of the Council of Gdańsk, the Old Town Hall served as the headquarters of the Soviet Army during the dying days of WWII, probably because it was practically the only building left standing in the city at the time. Today Today the building is open to the public and has become the focus of much creativity. Concerts are held upstairs, and the superb Baltic Sea Cultural Centre (see Culture & Events ) now have their offi ces there. There’s also a cellar restaurant, and a good bookshop on the ground floor. QB-3, ul. Korzenna 33/35, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 51, www.nck.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission free.

ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH  This 14th century brick church, the former parish church of the Old Town and where Hevelius was once church administrator, is also his final resting place. You will find his tomb at the rear behind the altar along with an epitaph funded by his grandson nearly 100 years after the great man’s death. Following a fire in 2006, which resulted in facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Frei Stadt Danzig

 The history of the city of Gdansk is a rich and somet sometimes imes complicated one. Described by Napoleon as ‘the key to everything’ when he marched eastward eastward in the early 19th century, the city has moved backwards and forwards b etween Polish and German/Prussian control over the centuries.  Twicee in its history  Twic history the city has found found itself itself functionin functioningg as an independent City State, first in the period 1807-1814 under the auspices of Napoleon and secondly in the inter-war years. This second period highlighted the city’s unique and independent population, a bit German, a bit Polish, a bit Kashubian, but first and foremost Danzigers. It also became the focal point for disagreements which resulted in the much wider conflict that became WWII. What exactly was Freie Stadt Danzig, how did it come about and what remains of it today?

the ceiling collapsing, work to restore the church took a number of years. A fairly spartan scene, the highlight is a 76 metre baroque tower housing a 49-bell carillon, which has chimed on the hour - every hour - since the 50th anniversary of the outbreak of WWII in 1939. The tower contains a small museum dedicated to clock towers but this is only open to the public in the summer. QC-3, ul. Profesorska 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 15 95, www. gdansk.karmelici.pl. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00 only.

December 2015 - April 2016 87

Frei Stadt Danzig well as towns like Zoppot (Sopot), Tiegenhof (Nowy Dwor Gdanski) and Neutiech (Nowy Staw), stretched as far as Malbork to the east and numbered a population of 366,000. Both Germany and Poland felt wronged by the League of Nations’decision but the residents of the city, used to upheaval and facing starvation as the city reeled from the after effects of war viewed this as a change for the better. With the help of countries such as Poland, France, England and Sweden, the city started to rebuild its economy from the ruins. Although long-standing pre-war policies of Germanization had proved successful the fact was that more than 80% of the population considered themselves Danzigers first often using the phrase ‘ich bin von hier’(I am from here) to describe themselves. The first years of the new s tate were difficult and it was only thanks to Polish food aid that many didn’t starve. Slowly but surely things started to improve, international companies started to move into the city and local businesses demonstrating the traditional Danzig qualities of innovation and entrepreneurship emerged. Heavy industry was built up including ship building, the timber industry thrived as well as food, brewing and confectionery. Some of the firms who helped rebuild the Danzig economy are still present today such as Dr. Oetker, the German food company.The 1920’s saw a period of strong growth.  The changes changes the creation of the Free City brought were were far reaching. Citizens of Danzig were issued with new passports, and anyone not wishing to surrender their German citizenship was obliged to leave. Elsewhere Danzig coins, banknotes and stamps were brought into circulation. Originally called Marks, the Great Depression saw the introduction of Danzig Gilders which became as much a symbol of the city as the emblem showing 2 crosses and a crown. Danzigers proudly boasted of their Danzig Dollars, so similar were they in texture and colour to the American dollar and the 30s were a time of increasing prosperity. To push the point home the state even got its own national anthem, a great little ditty making liberal use of the phrase ‘In Danzig it must surely be!’ As the city developed an international passenger airport was built in Wrzeszcz with connections to destinations like Prague and Moscow added, while in Sopot the Kasino Hotel opened its doors in 1927. Now known as the Sofitel Grand this was frankly the best hotel for miles, and a gathering spot for the celebs and jet-set of inter-war Danzig.  To make sure the the Germans Germans weren’ weren’t cheating cheating and and ducking ducking out of the rules the League of Nations appointed a series of High Commissioners to lord around, and these guys are worth a book on their own. There were to be ten over the course of history but these men were by no means the kings of all they surveyed; domestic aff airs were left in the hands of the Danzig Senate, and the clash of German, Polish and League interests were a recipe for disaster which frequently left the commissioners at logger heads with the ruling party.  The Leagu Leaguee of Nationstried to keep keep the the balance ance and was was keen keen to press the rights of the Polish minority. The Westerplatte Peninsula, for so long a pleasant little beach kitted out with posh bathhouses, was handed over to the Polish military which set about fortifying it with a trail of bunkers to deter the Germans from any naughtiness. On top of that, a Polish Post Offi ce was established within the city on what is today ul. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Obroncow Poczty Polskiej. Now, while that sounds innocuous enough, the German’s assumed there was more going on inside than Postman Patryk sorting postcards. And they were right, as proved by the fi erce armed resistance Nazi storm troopers met when they attempted to capture it in 1939. Maintaining the law were the Schutzpolizei, dapper dressed coppers with pointy pike helmets. The police orchestra, led by the composer and major Ernst Stieberitz, was globally renowned for its talent; though don’t think for a minute think this police force was some sort of comedy outfit. By 1935 the infamous death’s head skulls had been added to their caps, an ominous sign of what was to come. Having first gained a representation in the Danzig Parliament with the elections of 1930, the Nazis would go onto take power in 1933 with just over 50% of the vote which was notably less than in parts of Germany or the other ceded territories. The NSDAP had managed just 16% in 1930 and even after 2 years of Nazi rule the 1935 election only saw their share of the vote increase to 59% despite opposition parties being subjected to attacks, local radio being used exclusively for Nazi pro paganda and gover nment officials threatened with the sack if they didn’t vote for the Nazi party. International relations plunged immediately. Polish paper Gazeta Gdanska was outlawed, and Jews were earmarked for specific harassment and persecution. The Synagogue was finally demolished in May, 1939 - a year after a similar effort had been thwarted by guards - and on September 1, 1939 the Nazi warship, Schleiswig-Holstein, shelled the Polish garrison based at Westerplatte. World War Two had begun, the fate of the Free City of Danzig was sealed.

FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE Now relocated into a more spacious venue in the shadow of the Green Gate, what looks like little more than a three minute diversion transpires to be one of the most fascinating surprises in the city. From 1920 until 1939 the city you stand in found life as a semi-independent state, better known as the Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig).  This exhibition aims to celebrate those times, and more specifically the positives that came about. And there were many; while the rise of fascism will always cast a pall over the city, it must also be remembered this was far from the nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The campaign for long term Germanization had been reasonably effective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves as Danzigers first and foremost - not Germans, and not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which two nations co- existed. This heyday is remembered by way of dozens of everyday treasures rescued from the inter bellum: on show are reams of collectibles, from bank notes to beer bottles, from tourist guides to cigarette packets. The exhibition features multimedia displays as well as a permanent exhibition on Danzig trams. While all the texts next to the displays are in Polish make sure you ask for one of the guidebooks available downstairs which clearly describe each display in English (or Russian or German). QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51, www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl. www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. YN facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

NEW TOWN HALL

Known fondly by locals of a certain age as ‘Żak’, this beautiful building was originally built as the ‘Generalko ‘Gene ralkomman mmando’ do’ (Gen (General eral Command) Command) of the Prussian Garrison stationed in the city. Costing an eyewatering 6.2 million Marks the residence took three years to build (1898-1901) and incorporated an annex and stables all set in 1.8 hectares of parkland.  The new Free City Parliament (Volkstag) wanted the building for its purposes but lost out to the League of Nations High Commissioner Sir Richard Haking. In 1938 Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster famously promised C.J. Burkhardt (the last High Commissioner) that his residence would be turned into a casino for party dignitaries once they were rid of him although in fact it became the residence of General Max Bock and Lt. Col. Hans-Ludwig Grosser during the war.  The new Communist st authorities take over the the building after the war but it was in the period 1957-1999 when a new legend was written. The student club Klub Studentów Wybrzeża Żak or Żak for short became a cultural centre for the youth of the Tri-city as well as a hotbed of anti-communist thinking. Stars like the Polish James Dean Zbigniew Cybulski performed in the club’s theatre while the parties are reported to have been legendary. The building also featured one of the only cinemas showing independent films as well as a café and bar. As described by the students themselves ‘Żak was like a colourful island in a sea of gray: people banging doors and windows at all events, no matter what it was. That’s when Żak was a legend.’ In 1991 the newly independent city authorities, now staffed by many of Żak’s former members (Gdansk City President Pawel Adamowicz is a self-confessed veteran) decided to create a new cultural centre here and the dilapidated space was, for the next 8 years, one of the best places to party in the city.  The city took back the building in 1999 and returned returned it to its former glory making it the ceremonial Town Hall of the city. Żak, the cultural centre, lives on in a new purpose built property in Wrzeszcz. QA-3, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 1, Gdańsk. Members of the public are free to enter during offi ce hours but you’ll need prio r permission to look at the meeting halls. December 2015 - April 2016 89

Frei Stadt Danzig

Danzig Senate

Courtesyof WojciechGruszczyński,www.danzig-online.pl 

 The history of the city of Gdansk is a rich and somet sometimes imes complicated one. Described by Napoleon as ‘the key to everything’ when he marched eastward eastward in the early 19th century, the city has moved backwards and forwards b etween Polish and German/Prussian control over the centuries.  Twicee in its history  Twic history the city has found found itself itself functionin functioningg as an independent City State, first in the period 1807-1814 under the auspices of Napoleon and secondly in the inter-war years. This second period highlighted the city’s unique and independent population, a bit German, a bit Polish, a bit Kashubian, but first and foremost Danzigers. It also became the focal point for disagreements which resulted in the much wider conflict that became WWII. What exactly was Freie Stadt Danzig, how did it come about and what remains of it today?

HISTORY In 1918 Poland had existed in memory only for over a century (123 years to be exact) since the Third Partition of 1795 imposed by her powerful neighbours saw Poland’s territories carved up between Prussian, Habsburg and Russian empires. Gdansk/Danzig found herself in the Prussian partition, then briefly functioning as a Free City and later becoming part of the German Empire. The end of WWI brought with it a house-of-cards collapse, and a new independent Polish republic was established on the back of this redress of power. Gdansk/Danzig became a huge sticking point at the Versailles negotiations with both Germany and Poland arguing strongly that the city with its port ought to be put under their control. With agreement impossible, Germany in no position to rebuild the devastated local economy because of the paralysing effect of the war reparations and the League of Nations both wary the city contained a large German speaking population and fearful the Poles might go ‘Red’like the Russians, a hashed together compromise saw the city instead designated as a Free City State. It was placed under the Protectorate of the League of Nations who appointed a High Commissioner to oversee its running. Thus on January 10th, 1920, Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig or Wolne Miasto Gdańsk in Polish) came into being.

FROM STARVATION TO PROSPERITY  To call what had been created a city, however, is a bit of a misnomer. The area falling into the sphere of the Free City actually consisted of a sizeable area - covering land of nearly 2,000 square kilometres it comprised of 252 villages, as 88 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Frei Stadt Danzig well as towns like Zoppot (Sopot), Tiegenhof (Nowy Dwor Gdanski) and Neutiech (Nowy Staw), stretched as far as Malbork to the east and numbered a population of 366,000. Both Germany and Poland felt wronged by the League of Nations’decision but the residents of the city, used to upheaval and facing starvation as the city reeled from the after effects of war viewed this as a change for the better. With the help of countries such as Poland, France, England and Sweden, the city started to rebuild its economy from the ruins. Although long-standing pre-war policies of Germanization had proved successful the fact was that more than 80% of the population considered themselves Danzigers first often using the phrase ‘ich bin von hier’(I am from here) to describe themselves. The first years of the new s tate were difficult and it was only thanks to Polish food aid that many didn’t starve. Slowly but surely things started to improve, international companies started to move into the city and local businesses demonstrating the traditional Danzig qualities of innovation and entrepreneurship emerged. Heavy industry was built up including ship building, the timber industry thrived as well as food, brewing and confectionery. Some of the firms who helped rebuild the Danzig economy are still present today such as Dr. Oetker, the German food company.The 1920’s saw a period of strong growth.  The changes changes the creation of the Free City brought were were far reaching. Citizens of Danzig were issued with new passports, and anyone not wishing to surrender their German citizenship was obliged to leave. Elsewhere Danzig coins, banknotes and stamps were brought into circulation. Originally called Marks, the Great Depression saw the introduction of Danzig Gilders which became as much a symbol of the city as the emblem showing 2 crosses and a crown. Danzigers proudly boasted of their Danzig Dollars, so similar were they in texture and colour to the American dollar and the 30s were a time of increasing prosperity. To push the point home the state even got its own national anthem, a great little ditty making liberal use of the phrase ‘In Danzig it must surely be!’ As the city developed an international passenger airport was built in Wrzeszcz with connections to destinations like Prague and Moscow added, while in Sopot the Kasino Hotel opened its doors in 1927. Now known as the Sofitel Grand this was frankly the best hotel for miles, and a gathering spot for the celebs and jet-set of inter-war Danzig.  To make sure the the Germans Germans weren’ weren’t cheating cheating and and ducking ducking out of the rules the League of Nations appointed a series of High Commissioners to lord around, and these guys are worth a book on their own. There were to be ten over the course of history but these men were by no means the kings of all they surveyed; domestic aff airs were left in the hands of the Danzig Senate, and the clash of German, Polish and League interests were a recipe for disaster which frequently left the commissioners at logger heads with the ruling party.  The Leagu Leaguee of Nationstried to keep keep the the balance ance and was was keen keen to press the rights of the Polish minority. The Westerplatte Peninsula, for so long a pleasant little beach kitted out with posh bathhouses, was handed over to the Polish military which set about fortifying it with a trail of bunkers to deter the Germans from any naughtiness. On top of that, a Polish Post Offi ce was established within the city on what is today ul. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Obroncow Poczty Polskiej. Now, while that sounds innocuous enough, the German’s assumed there was more going on inside than Postman Patryk sorting postcards. And they were right, as proved by the fi erce armed resistance Nazi storm troopers met when they attempted to capture it in 1939. Maintaining the law were the Schutzpolizei, dapper dressed coppers with pointy pike helmets. The police orchestra, led by the composer and major Ernst Stieberitz, was globally renowned for its talent; though don’t think for a minute think this police force was some sort of comedy outfit. By 1935 the infamous death’s head skulls had been added to their caps, an ominous sign of what was to come. Having first gained a representation in the Danzig Parliament with the elections of 1930, the Nazis would go onto take power in 1933 with just over 50% of the vote which was notably less than in parts of Germany or the other ceded territories. The NSDAP had managed just 16% in 1930 and even after 2 years of Nazi rule the 1935 election only saw their share of the vote increase to 59% despite opposition parties being subjected to attacks, local radio being used exclusively for Nazi pro paganda and gover nment officials threatened with the sack if they didn’t vote for the Nazi party. International relations plunged immediately. Polish paper Gazeta Gdanska was outlawed, and Jews were earmarked for specific harassment and persecution. The Synagogue was finally demolished in May, 1939 - a year after a similar effort had been thwarted by guards - and on September 1, 1939 the Nazi warship, Schleiswig-Holstein, shelled the Polish garrison based at Westerplatte. World War Two had begun, the fate of the Free City of Danzig was sealed.

FREE CITY OF DANZIG HISTORICAL ZONE Now relocated into a more spacious venue in the shadow of the Green Gate, what looks like little more than a three minute diversion transpires to be one of the most fascinating surprises in the city. From 1920 until 1939 the city you stand in found life as a semi-independent state, better known as the Freie Stadt Danzig (Free City of Danzig).  This exhibition aims to celebrate those times, and more specifically the positives that came about. And there were many; while the rise of fascism will always cast a pall over the city, it must also be remembered this was far from the nationalist hotbed that is always assumed. The campaign for long term Germanization had been reasonably effective, yet still over 80% of the population regarded themselves as Danzigers first and foremost - not Germans, and not Poles, but the citizens of a unique melting pot in which two nations co- existed. This heyday is remembered by way of dozens of everyday treasures rescued from the inter bellum: on show are reams of collectibles, from bank notes to beer bottles, from tourist guides to cigarette packets. The exhibition features multimedia displays as well as a permanent exhibition on Danzig trams. While all the texts next to the displays are in Polish make sure you ask for one of the guidebooks available downstairs which clearly describe each display in English (or Russian or German). QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 25/27, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 602 27 80 51, www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl. www.strefahistorycznawmg.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. YN

NEW TOWN HALL

Known fondly by locals of a certain age as ‘Żak’, this beautiful building was originally built as the ‘Generalko ‘Gene ralkomman mmando’ do’ (Gen (General eral Command) Command) of the Prussian Garrison stationed in the city. Costing an eyewatering 6.2 million Marks the residence took three years to build (1898-1901) and incorporated an annex and stables all set in 1.8 hectares of parkland.  The new Free City Parliament (Volkstag) wanted the building for its purposes but lost out to the League of Nations High Commissioner Sir Richard Haking. In 1938 Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster famously promised C.J. Burkhardt (the last High Commissioner) that his residence would be turned into a casino for party dignitaries once they were rid of him although in fact it became the residence of General Max Bock and Lt. Col. Hans-Ludwig Grosser during the war.  The new Communist st authorities take over the the building after the war but it was in the period 1957-1999 when a new legend was written. The student club Klub Studentów Wybrzeża Żak or Żak for short became a cultural centre for the youth of the Tri-city as well as a hotbed of anti-communist thinking. Stars like the Polish James Dean Zbigniew Cybulski performed in the club’s theatre while the parties are reported to have been legendary. The building also featured one of the only cinemas showing independent films as well as a café and bar. As described by the students themselves ‘Żak was like a colourful island in a sea of gray: people banging doors and windows at all events, no matter what it was. That’s when Żak was a legend.’ In 1991 the newly independent city authorities, now staffed by many of Żak’s former members (Gdansk City President Pawel Adamowicz is a self-confessed veteran) decided to create a new cultural centre here and the dilapidated space was, for the next 8 years, one of the best places to party in the city.  The city took back the building in 1999 and returned returned it to its former glory making it the ceremonial Town Hall of the city. Żak, the cultural centre, lives on in a new purpose built property in Wrzeszcz. QA-3, ul. Wały Jagiellońskie 1, Gdańsk. Members of the public are free to enter during offi ce hours but you’ll need prio r permission to look at the meeting halls. December 2015 - April 2016 89

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Günter Grass

Günter Grass

Gunter Grass, the Nobel prize-winning author, passed away earlier this year and with him probably went an era. A sometimes controversial fi gure, he maintained close contact with the city of his birth and will be missed. Gunter Grass was born on October 16, 1927 the son of aGerman grocer, Wilhelm Grass and a Kashubian mother Helena Knoff , in the hospital now known as Kliniczna. Grass’ background was not uncommon uncommon in a city where Germans, Poles and the local Kashubian population regularly intermarried and his own story can be viewed as a pocket history of the city in the first half of the 20th century.  The mix of cultures in which Grass Grass grew up is also a theme that regularly appears in his work and is particularly evident in Grass’‘The Tin Drum’where the main character Oskar has a Kashubian mother, and two presumptive fathers - the German Alfred Matzerath, his mother’s husband and the Pole Jan Bronski, his mother’s lover. Because Grass uses real places set against an historical background in his fictionalised work, he creates a window into the Danzig of the 1930s and 1940s and the lives of those who lived here during this period.

His family moved to Germany where Grass worked in a mine and trained as a stonemason. He attended art school in Dusseldorf and Berlin and the post-war years saw him do stints as a black-marketeer; a drummer in a jazz band, working as a tombstone cutter and then as a political speech writer. It was while scraping a living in Paris that he wrote The Tin Drum in 1957, a book that came to be his defining work. The story of Oskar Matzerath, the boy who at the age of three decides to stop growing and has a voice that can break glass, is a powerful story full of dark imagery set against the rise and fall of Nazism in Danzig/Gdansk.  The Tin Drum, Drum, published in 1959, launched launched Grass as a write and was followed by Cat and Mouse in 1961 and Dog Years in 1963 to form the Danzig Trilogy. Trilogy.

Courtesy of the Günter Grass Gallery

Although his father was an Evangelical Protestant, Gunter Grass was christened a Catholic like his mother in the nearby Sacred Heart of Jesus church on ul. ks. Jozefa Zator Przytockiego 3 (Schwarzerweg). His parents moved to the nearby ul. Joachima Lelewela (Labesweg), where his father, a grocer, also had a shop. Grass attended the primary school on ul. Pestalozziego (Pestalozzistrasse) before continuing his studies in the Conradinum on ul. Piramowicza(Kruzestrasse).

Grass admitted that in 1944 he had been drafted into the 10th SS tank division Frundsberg and that the aircraft auxiliary episode was one that had lasted only while he was a schoolboy. Naturally his involvement in an organisation infamous for its associations with deaths heads and murder caused a bit of a rumpus in Poland, a country regarded as the primary killing fi eld of the Nazi machine. Local hero, Lech Wałęsa, called on Grass to surrender his honorary citizenship of Gdańsk, while some accused him of trying to hype up the publication of his latest book at the time, Peeling Onions. While the belated revelation drew widespread shock and accusations of hypocrisy, following many years where he had criticised Germans for not taking full responsibility for their war-time actions, many high profile names such as the local Archbishop Michalik andnovelist John Irving, sprang to his defence. Speaking of the guilt he had carried all his life, Grass claimed to never have fired a shot, adding that once he saw the brutality of war he even tried to infect himself with jaundice in an attempt to escape his military duty. He went as far as to write an open letter of explanation to the people of Gdansk and this appeared to have done the trick with the local mayor Pawel Adamowicz refusing to rescind Grass’honorary citizenship while even the normally stubborn Wałęsa applauded Grass for coming clean and withdrew his previous objections.

Grass was born and raised in the Free City and by the time he became a teenager, Danzig had been incorporated into the Nazi German Reich in 1939. While Grass had openly admitted to having been a member of the Hitler Youth, it is the period of his life towards the end of the war which caused the most controversy in his later years. Grass had said that he had vo lunteered for, and been rejected by, the Kriegsmarine as a 15-year old in order primarily to get away from his unhappy, uninspiring family life in the “two-room fl at and four-family toilet” and that later he had served as an anti-aircraft auxiliary. However this version of his story was thrown on its head in 2006 following a frank interview granted to the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

 The end of the war saw the city occupied by the Red Army and Poland given the city of Danzig/Gdansk under the terms of the Yalta agreement. Poland’s territory was moved westward with the German border now at the Oder. The surviving German population of Danzig/Gdansk were expelled to make room for Polish refugees themselves moved from ceded territory in the east such as Wilno/ Vilnius in what is now Lithuania or Grodno/Hrodna in the present day Belarus. Grass never made it back to Danzig/ Gdansk after leaving to Berlin and then Dresden to be a tank gunner. He was wounded in April 1945 and was in Karlsbad in the now Czech Republic when Germany surrendered.

Many of the locations where the action is set in his novels are real places where Grass spent time during this period and with many having survived the devastation suffered by the main city of Gdansk/ Danzig during World War II, it is possible to walk the streets of Grass’childhood and at the same time realise the setting of his stories.  The best place to start is his parents’ home close to the Wrzeszcz railway station and bus terminus. The row of buildings on ul. Lendziona (German - Kastanienweg) look much like they did when Grass was born and at 5a you’ll see the entrance to the courtyard where the Grasses lived.

90 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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Grass first returned to his hometown at the end of the 1950s and he maintained close contact with the city until his death. While he built a career as an artist and sculptor as well, it is for his writing that he became best known and he continued to publish into his eighties. One of his later works, Crabwalk (2002), focuses on the sinking of the Wilhelm Gustloff - the largest maritime disaster in history. Setting sail from Gdynia the ship was sunk in the Bay of Gdańsk and, though rarely reported, remains the world’s largest nautical disaster. Grass received the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1999 for his work and in 2009 a gallery was opened in Gdansk in his name which hosts changing exhibitions of his writing, art and sculpture. While Grass’ Gdansk is mainly sought by Germans tracing their families’ own stories or looking to see the places about which they read at school (where Grass is still taught), the area makes for an interesting walk particularly if you have read Grass’ Danzig Trilogy or you want to get a sense of what old Danzig looked like before the war. We have created this walking tour which helps you to discover the key places which still exist or we recommend you contact one of the tour companies listed below. Gunter Grass passed away on April 12th, 2015 at the age of 87, his death prompting Walesa and mayor Pawel Adamowicz to lead the tributes from Gdansk.

GÜNTER GRASS GALLERY IN GDAŃSK   The Gunter Grass Gallery looks like a great place. Unfortunately, not a word of what appears to be an excellent exhibit is in English, so you’ll have to ask one of the pleasant attendants for help. Fortunately a lot of the exhibition is a visual experience bought by the city or borrowed from Grass’ Lubeck library but those speaking Grass’ native German will get the most from reading the framed manuscript pages or listening to Grass speeches being played on the headsets. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 34/35-37, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 98 54, www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue, Wed Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

WHAT TO SEE  The following following is a selection selection of the most interest interesting ing places places related to Gunter Grass and his novels. For a more detailed list go online to our website. Alternatively give the people at Easy Gdansk Tours a call (see Sightseeing).

GRASS’ HOME A word of warning on this one. While the address was and still is at number 13, ul. Lelewela (Labesweg), the buildings are numbered in a peculiar way here meaning Grass’ home can be found following on from numbers 12 and 17. The building that Grass grew up in featured a grocer’s store at street level with the Grass family flat adjacent to it. In the Tin Drum, Oskar climbs to the attic to look out of the window and you can get a sense of that by popping around the corner into ul. Aldony and turning right in the courtyard behind the building. QF-3, ul. Joachima Lelewela 13, Gdańsk.

GUNTER GRASS MONUMENT Unveiled on October 16, 2015 six months after his death and on the 88th anniversary of his birth, this statue pays tribute to the Danzig-born writer Gunter Grass in the heart of the district where his most famous story was set. The statue shows Grass in middle-age sitting on a bench opposite a statue of possibly his most famous character - Oskar Matzerath.  The two appear to be in conversation or perhaps Grass is reading to Oskar from the book on his lap which has a snail crawling across it - a reference to the most autobiographical of Grass’ works ‘From the Diary of a Snail ’.’. Despite Oskar and his regularly disappearing drumsticks having sat here alone for 13 years the two statues were actually made together from a design by Slawoj Ostrowski, a lecturer at the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk. At the time Grass caused a bit of controversy by telling the city authorities that he didn’t want a statue made of him while there were still homes in his childhood district which still didn’t have bathrooms and so the statue was put into storage. With the district markedly improved from those days in 2002 and with the author’s passing, the city dusted the statue off and Grass is back home in Langfuhr for good.QF-3, Pl. Wybickiego, Gdańsk.

VINIFERA Depicted as the little doll’s house in Gunter Gunter Grass’ Call of the Toad, Vinifera is a tiny (we mean tiny) canal side cottage which features a bar and ver y limited standing room downstairs and a dark lounge area with mirrored walls upstairs. Find some decent local beers and regular events in this classic bit of old Danzig worth experiencing before you head off to the next bar on your list.QC-2, ul. Wodopój 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 798 73 44 90. Open 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. GW December 2015 - April 2016 91

Günter Grass

Günter Grass

Gunter Grass, the Nobel prize-winning author, passed away earlier this year and with him probably went an era. A sometimes controversial fi gure, he maintained close contact with the city of his birth and will be missed. Gunter Grass was born on October 16, 1927 the son of aGerman grocer, Wilhelm Grass and a Kashubian mother Helena Knoff , in the hospital now known as Kliniczna. Grass’ background was not uncommon uncommon in a city where Germans, Poles and the local Kashubian population regularly intermarried and his own story can be viewed as a pocket history of the city in the first half of the 20th century.  The mix of cultures in which Grass Grass grew up is also a theme that regularly appears in his work and is particularly evident in Grass’‘The Tin Drum’where the main character Oskar has a Kashubian mother, and two presumptive fathers - the German Alfred Matzerath, his mother’s husband and the Pole Jan Bronski, his mother’s lover. Because Grass uses real places set against an historical background in his fictionalised work, he creates a window into the Danzig of the 1930s and 1940s and the lives of those who lived here during this period.

His family moved to Germany where Grass worked in a mine and trained as a stonemason. He attended art school in Dusseldorf and Berlin and the post-war years saw him do stints as a black-marketeer; a drummer in a jazz band, working as a tombstone cutter and then as a political speech writer. It was while scraping a living in Paris that he wrote The Tin Drum in 1957, a book that came to be his defining work. The story of Oskar Matzerath, the boy who at the age of three decides to stop growing and has a voice that can break glass, is a powerful story full of dark imagery set against the rise and fall of Nazism in Danzig/Gdansk.  The Tin Drum, Drum, published in 1959, launched launched Grass as a write and was followed by Cat and Mouse in 1961 and Dog Years in 1963 to form the Danzig Trilogy. Trilogy.

Courtesy of the Günter Grass Gallery

Although his father was an Evangelical Protestant, Gunter Grass was christened a Catholic like his mother in the nearby Sacred Heart of Jesus church on ul. ks. Jozefa Zator Przytockiego 3 (Schwarzerweg). His parents moved to the nearby ul. Joachima Lelewela (Labesweg), where his father, a grocer, also had a shop. Grass attended the primary school on ul. Pestalozziego (Pestalozzistrasse) before continuing his studies in the Conradinum on ul. Piramowicza(Kruzestrasse).

Grass admitted that in 1944 he had been drafted into the 10th SS tank division Frundsberg and that the aircraft auxiliary episode was one that had lasted only while he was a schoolboy. Naturally his involvement in an organisation infamous for its associations with deaths heads and murder caused a bit of a rumpus in Poland, a country regarded as the primary killing fi eld of the Nazi machine. Local hero, Lech Wałęsa, called on Grass to surrender his honorary citizenship of Gdańsk, while some accused him of trying to hype up the publication of his latest book at the time, Peeling Onions. While the belated revelation drew widespread shock and accusations of hypocrisy, following many years where he had criticised Germans for not taking full responsibility for their war-time actions, many high profile names such as the local Archbishop Michalik andnovelist John Irving, sprang to his defence. Speaking of the guilt he had carried all his life, Grass claimed to never have fired a shot, adding that once he saw the brutality of war he even tried to infect himself with jaundice in an attempt to escape his military duty. He went as far as to write an open letter of explanation to the people of Gdansk and this appeared to have done the trick with the local mayor Pawel Adamowicz refusing to rescind Grass’honorary citizenship while even the normally stubborn Wałęsa applauded Grass for coming clean and withdrew his previous objections.

Grass was born and raised in the Free City and by the time he became a teenager, Danzig had been incorporated into the Nazi German Reich in 1939. While Grass had openly admitted to having been a member of the Hitler Youth, it is the period of his life towards the end of the war which caused the most controversy in his later years. Grass had said that he had vo lunteered for, and been rejected by, the Kriegsmarine as a 15-year old in order primarily to get away from his unhappy, uninspiring family life in the “two-room fl at and four-family toilet” and that later he had served as an anti-aircraft auxiliary. However this version of his story was thrown on its head in 2006 following a frank interview granted to the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

 The end of the war saw the city occupied by the Red Army and Poland given the city of Danzig/Gdansk under the terms of the Yalta agreement. Poland’s territory was moved westward with the German border now at the Oder. The surviving German population of Danzig/Gdansk were expelled to make room for Polish refugees themselves moved from ceded territory in the east such as Wilno/ Vilnius in what is now Lithuania or Grodno/Hrodna in the present day Belarus. Grass never made it back to Danzig/ Gdansk after leaving to Berlin and then Dresden to be a tank gunner. He was wounded in April 1945 and was in Karlsbad in the now Czech Republic when Germany surrendered.

Many of the locations where the action is set in his novels are real places where Grass spent time during this period and with many having survived the devastation suffered by the main city of Gdansk/ Danzig during World War II, it is possible to walk the streets of Grass’childhood and at the same time realise the setting of his stories.  The best place to start is his parents’ home close to the Wrzeszcz railway station and bus terminus. The row of buildings on ul. Lendziona (German - Kastanienweg) look much like they did when Grass was born and at 5a you’ll see the entrance to the courtyard where the Grasses lived.

90 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Grass first returned to his hometown at the end of the 1950s and he maintained close contact with the city until his death. While he built a career as an artist and sculptor as well, it is for his writing that he became best known and he continued to publish into his eighties. One of his later works, Crabwalk (2002), focuses on the sinking of the Wilhelm Gustloff - the largest maritime disaster in history. Setting sail from Gdynia the ship was sunk in the Bay of Gdańsk and, though rarely reported, remains the world’s largest nautical disaster. Grass received the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1999 for his work and in 2009 a gallery was opened in Gdansk in his name which hosts changing exhibitions of his writing, art and sculpture. While Grass’ Gdansk is mainly sought by Germans tracing their families’ own stories or looking to see the places about which they read at school (where Grass is still taught), the area makes for an interesting walk particularly if you have read Grass’ Danzig Trilogy or you want to get a sense of what old Danzig looked like before the war. We have created this walking tour which helps you to discover the key places which still exist or we recommend you contact one of the tour companies listed below. Gunter Grass passed away on April 12th, 2015 at the age of 87, his death prompting Walesa and mayor Pawel Adamowicz to lead the tributes from Gdansk.

GÜNTER GRASS GALLERY IN GDAŃSK   The Gunter Grass Gallery looks like a great place. Unfortunately, not a word of what appears to be an excellent exhibit is in English, so you’ll have to ask one of the pleasant attendants for help. Fortunately a lot of the exhibition is a visual experience bought by the city or borrowed from Grass’ Lubeck library but those speaking Grass’ native German will get the most from reading the framed manuscript pages or listening to Grass speeches being played on the headsets. QC-4, ul. Szeroka 34/35-37, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 98 54, www.ggm.gda.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Tue, Wed Wed 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

WHAT TO SEE  The following following is a selection selection of the most interest interesting ing places places related to Gunter Grass and his novels. For a more detailed list go online to our website. Alternatively give the people at Easy Gdansk Tours a call (see Sightseeing).

GRASS’ HOME A word of warning on this one. While the address was and still is at number 13, ul. Lelewela (Labesweg), the buildings are numbered in a peculiar way here meaning Grass’ home can be found following on from numbers 12 and 17. The building that Grass grew up in featured a grocer’s store at street level with the Grass family flat adjacent to it. In the Tin Drum, Oskar climbs to the attic to look out of the window and you can get a sense of that by popping around the corner into ul. Aldony and turning right in the courtyard behind the building. QF-3, ul. Joachima Lelewela 13, Gdańsk.

GUNTER GRASS MONUMENT Unveiled on October 16, 2015 six months after his death and on the 88th anniversary of his birth, this statue pays tribute to the Danzig-born writer Gunter Grass in the heart of the district where his most famous story was set. The statue shows Grass in middle-age sitting on a bench opposite a statue of possibly his most famous character - Oskar Matzerath.  The two appear to be in conversation or perhaps Grass is reading to Oskar from the book on his lap which has a snail crawling across it - a reference to the most autobiographical of Grass’ works ‘From the Diary of a Snail ’.’. Despite Oskar and his regularly disappearing drumsticks having sat here alone for 13 years the two statues were actually made together from a design by Slawoj Ostrowski, a lecturer at the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk. At the time Grass caused a bit of controversy by telling the city authorities that he didn’t want a statue made of him while there were still homes in his childhood district which still didn’t have bathrooms and so the statue was put into storage. With the district markedly improved from those days in 2002 and with the author’s passing, the city dusted the statue off and Grass is back home in Langfuhr for good.QF-3, Pl. Wybickiego, Gdańsk.

VINIFERA Depicted as the little doll’s house in Gunter Gunter Grass’ Call of the Toad, Vinifera is a tiny (we mean tiny) canal side cottage which features a bar and ver y limited standing room downstairs and a dark lounge area with mirrored walls upstairs. Find some decent local beers and regular events in this classic bit of old Danzig worth experiencing before you head off to the next bar on your list.QC-2, ul. Wodopój 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 798 73 44 90. Open 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. GW December 2015 - April 2016 91

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WWII

WWII SIEGE

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er one one of th fir st t ba ba tle f W  r  War  II   II .

September 1, 1939, is forever etched in the history books as the day the world went to war. The world would never be the same again, and it started here, seventy-five years ago, with Danzig/Gdansk as the o pening gambit in Hitler’s vile master plan.

PRELUDE  The city had long been caught in a tug of war betweenGermanyy and Poland and the decision to make betweenGerman it a Free City State by the League of Nations following World War I left neither side happy. Nonetheless the region thrived, and the two communities co-existed for quite some time; the Germans controlled the State senate, the police and much of the business, while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and had their own postal service. The rise of Hitler changed all that, and bitter rivalries soon came to the surface after his election in next door Germany. Anti-Polish sentiment spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to the German way.  The rise in tensions wasn’t lost on the Poles. From 1925 the League of Nations bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish force across the water from the Free City on the Polish controlled Westerplatte Peninsula. As the years went on, and Hitler’s posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly building fortifications in breach of League of Nations decrees. 92 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Yet while the post offi ce capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. The plan was simple: in the event of an attack in Gdansk the Polish navy, stationed in nearby Gdynia (Poland), would sail in to help, aircraft from Puck would be scrambled, and the bridge in Tczew would be blown to stop a German advance into what was the demilitarized zone of the Free State. In the event nearly everything that could go wrong, did. The navy was caught out in the Bay of Gdansk, while the air force was destroyed while still on the ground. Polish customs offi cers did s ucceed in blowing the bridge at Tczew, crucially slowing the German advance whose armour was gathered over in Szymankowo. They paid for their bravery with their lives, and all were later shot by their German opposites, themselves also armed and primed for war. Today Stutthof museum has a post-execution picture of a grinning Nazi shooting party taken outside the Pullman wagons in which the Polish offi cers had lived. Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland proved ill founded. At 10:15 on the morning of September 7, Major Henryk Sucharski took the decision to raise the white flag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and then Hel - the fi nal Polish stronghold in Pomerania - fell on the 2nd of October by which time Poland had been invaded from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel, the final stand for the Poles, would also be the last place the Nazis would relinquish in 1945.

OUTBREAK On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German border town of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice). Pictures of the victims (actually corpses of concentration camp inmates dressed in German uniforms) were fl ashed across the world, with Hitler claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte, an attack that would ultimately kick off  World War II. Popular theory asserts the first shots of the war were fired from the German warship the Schleiswig Holsten, supposedly visiting Gdansk on a goodwill mission. Wrong. Logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three minutes by a gun emplacement nestled halfway up the lighthouse. The Poles, taken aback, missed this target entirely. Second time round they scored a direct hit, credited to a Pole called Eugeniusz Grabowski, thereby in all likelihood making the lighthouse gunners the fi rst casualties in a war that would go on to claim 55 million lives.  The German shelling of Westerplatte was s imultaneously supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway, with the Polish defenders repelling repeated attempts at advance by the navy storm troopers. At precisely the same time this assault had begun, another equally ferocious battle was being wage d at the small pos t office in the city’s then called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German policeand SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with fl amethrowers. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

UNDER THE REICH Hitler had always made much of incorporating Danzig into the Reich, yet somewhat surprisingly he only made two visits to the city - a deep held suspicion of Danzigers, and a fear of assassination explaining such apathy. The second of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Fuhrer arriving to Sopot on board his armoured train, the Amerika. It was there he checked into the Kasino Hotel (today the Sofitel Grand), booking into rooms 251253. His stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Dwor Artus on Gdansk’s Dlugi Targ. By this time fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid the region of all traces of Polonization. Intelligentsia and other such targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul. Kładki 1. B-5), which was used as a interview and processing centre, the city jail (now replaced by a newer model) and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp. Flags, signs and anything else remotely Polish was torched and destroyed. Governor and Gauleiter of the region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors. Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories, Forster followed a program of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German heritage. Even more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

in the fi rst wave of arrests could seek German citizenship, and even pursue compensation and restitution for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a form Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror and he is personally thought to have given the order for the mass murder of over 2,000 Poles executed between 1939 and 1940. Eventually caught and held on the Hel Peninsula trying to fl ee westwards, even his death remains a mystery - some claim he was hung in Biskupia Gora after the war, others that it was his body double who faced the hangman. Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaw’s Mokotow Prison and beaten to death. The truth, it appears, will never be known.

THE END For ordinary Danzigers the quality of life remained relatively good for much of the war. Zoppot/Sopot, especially, became a favourite stamping ground for soldiers on R&R, and in spite of rationing and occasional shortages life didn’t get worse until the closing stages. The fi rst warning signs that all was not well came with the fi rst air raids, yet even so allied bombers targeted the shipyards - home to munitions factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rockets - and the Zaspa airfi eld. The war still seemed far off , even in 1943 when work commenced on whisking cultural treasures to locations westwards. By 1944 a different picture had emerged; Danzig had become a major transit point, not least with swarms of refugees fl eeing from the east, as well as a regular target for bombing raids. By March, 1945, with the Red Army fast approaching, the population had reached 1.5 million and city stood on the precipice of chaos. Suspected deserters were strung up from the lampposts and trees of al. Zwyciestwa (or Hindenburg Allee as it was then known), and the city descended into a Dantean vision. Historian Antony Beevor writes of the ensuing siege: ‘Fighter bombers strafed the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian and military targets alike.  A church was as good as a bunker, esp ecially when it seemed as if the objective was to flatten every building which still protruded conspicuouslyabove the ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terrified of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets’.

Danzig had been designated a closed fortress, or Festung, and the defence proved bitter and bloody. Zoppot/Sopot fell on March 21, Gotenhafen/Gdynia on March 28, and both faced the full wrath of a drunken, avenging army, spurring the defenders of Danzig to fi ght even harder to grant the remaining civilians the chance of evacuation. Encircled and out-powered, even when the opportunity to surrender was off ered the Germans continued fighting; that fires were burning a month after Danzig was captured is testament to the ferocity of the siege. Polish and Red Army troops finally entered the city on March 30; Gdansk, home to the first shots of the war, now lay adrift on a sea of rape and ruin. December 2015 - April 2016 93

WWII

WWII SIEGE

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a

Yet while the post offi ce capitulated, the garrison at Westerplatte held on. The plan was simple: in the event of an attack in Gdansk the Polish navy, stationed in nearby Gdynia (Poland), would sail in to help, aircraft from Puck would be scrambled, and the bridge in Tczew would be blown to stop a German advance into what was the demilitarized zone of the Free State. In the event nearly everything that could go wrong, did. The navy was caught out in the Bay of Gdansk, while the air force was destroyed while still on the ground. Polish customs offi cers did s ucceed in blowing the bridge at Tczew, crucially slowing the German advance whose armour was gathered over in Szymankowo. They paid for their bravery with their lives, and all were later shot by their German opposites, themselves also armed and primed for war. Today Stutthof museum has a post-execution picture of a grinning Nazi shooting party taken outside the Pullman wagons in which the Polish offi cers had lived. Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3, but hopes of outside help being directed to Poland proved ill founded. At 10:15 on the morning of September 7, Major Henryk Sucharski took the decision to raise the white flag. Gdynia surrendered two weeks later, and then Hel - the fi nal Polish stronghold in Pomerania - fell on the 2nd of October by which time Poland had been invaded from the east by the Soviet Union. Ironically, Hel, the final stand for the Poles, would also be the last place the Nazis would relinquish in 1945.

er one one of th fir st t ba ba tle f W  r  War  II   II .

September 1, 1939, is forever etched in the history books as the day the world went to war. The world would never be the same again, and it started here, seventy-five years ago, with Danzig/Gdansk as the o pening gambit in Hitler’s vile master plan.

PRELUDE  The city had long been caught in a tug of war betweenGermanyy and Poland and the decision to make betweenGerman it a Free City State by the League of Nations following World War I left neither side happy. Nonetheless the region thrived, and the two communities co-existed for quite some time; the Germans controlled the State senate, the police and much of the business, while the Poles dominated the railways, port authority and had their own postal service. The rise of Hitler changed all that, and bitter rivalries soon came to the surface after his election in next door Germany. Anti-Polish sentiment spread rapidly, and by 1935 the local police force had started keeping tabs on any Pole seen as a threat to the German way.  The rise in tensions wasn’t lost on the Poles. From 1925 the League of Nations bowed to pressure and consented to the deployment of a token 88-man Polish force across the water from the Free City on the Polish controlled Westerplatte Peninsula. As the years went on, and Hitler’s posturing became ever more threatening, the Poles continued to covertly strengthen their foothold, smuggling in military hardware and secretly building fortifications in breach of League of Nations decrees. 92 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

OUTBREAK On August 31, 1939, Nazi units dressed in Polish uniform infamously staged a mock attack on a radio tower in the German border town of Gleiwitz (now Gliwice). Pictures of the victims (actually corpses of concentration camp inmates dressed in German uniforms) were fl ashed across the world, with Hitler claiming a provocative attack by the Polish army. The following dawn, Germany launched a strike on Westerplatte, an attack that would ultimately kick off  World War II. Popular theory asserts the first shots of the war were fired from the German warship the Schleiswig Holsten, supposedly visiting Gdansk on a goodwill mission. Wrong. Logbooks recovered by the Nowy Port Lighthouse across the water from Westerplatte prove beyond doubt that the German battleship was pre-empted by a matter of three minutes by a gun emplacement nestled halfway up the lighthouse. The Poles, taken aback, missed this target entirely. Second time round they scored a direct hit, credited to a Pole called Eugeniusz Grabowski, thereby in all likelihood making the lighthouse gunners the fi rst casualties in a war that would go on to claim 55 million lives.  The German shelling of Westerplatte was s imultaneously supported by infantry attacks on the Westerplatte gateway, with the Polish defenders repelling repeated attempts at advance by the navy storm troopers. At precisely the same time this assault had begun, another equally ferocious battle was being wage d at the small pos t office in the city’s then called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German policeand SS laid siege to the 50 Polish post workers inside, who put up a brave struggle for over 17 hours until casualties became intolerable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with fl amethrowers. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

UNDER THE REICH Hitler had always made much of incorporating Danzig into the Reich, yet somewhat surprisingly he only made two visits to the city - a deep held suspicion of Danzigers, and a fear of assassination explaining such apathy. The second of these visits came on September 18, 1939, with an exultant Fuhrer arriving to Sopot on board his armoured train, the Amerika. It was there he checked into the Kasino Hotel (today the Sofitel Grand), booking into rooms 251253. His stay lasted a week, during which time he received a delegation from Japan, visited the Schleswig-Holstein, Westerplatte and inspected a parade outside Dwor Artus on Gdansk’s Dlugi Targ. By this time fervent Nazis were already clamouring to rid the region of all traces of Polonization. Intelligentsia and other such targets were arrested and incarcerated in numerous camps and prisons, including the Victoriaschule (ul. Kładki 1. B-5), which was used as a interview and processing centre, the city jail (now replaced by a newer model) and Stutthof - later to morph into a notorious concentration camp. Flags, signs and anything else remotely Polish was torched and destroyed. Governor and Gauleiter of the region was Albert Forster, and his reign still arouses controversy and debate among both scholars and survivors. Unlike other Gauleiters in annexed and occupied territories, Forster followed a program of assimilation, granting thousands of locals German citizenship if they swore German heritage. Even more remarkably, those Poles rounded up and persecuted facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

WWII THE POST OFFICE SIEGE At just after 04:45 local time on September 1, 1939, as the Germans launched their attack on Westerplatte and WWII offi cially began, another ferocious assault was beginning at the Polish Post Offi ce in the city ’s then-called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS units lay siege to the 50 Polish post office workers inside, who put up a brave str uggle for over 17 hours until the casualties became unbearable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flame-throwers. One month later on October 2, 30 of the surviving postal workers were sentenced to death and subsequently shot a few weeks later (their bodies were only discovered in Zaspa Cemetery in 1991), and the whole episode has become part of modern Polish folklore. A wonderful and truly heroic story of David and Goliath proportions, what all accounts of the story fail to tell is just what a bunch of harmless postmen were doing armed to the teeth, and why it required two elite Nazi units to deal with them. The answer it seems lies in the fact that the Polish Post Office in the Free City of Danzig acted as a cover for Polish intelligence. So while the offi cial history o f the events of Sep tember 1, 1939 suggests the Nazis held Postman Patryk and his colleagues in contempt, the truth is probably the attack was a strategic attempt to quell Polish resistance in the city.

POLISH POST OFFICE During the era of the Free City the Polish state was represented by various public bodies such as Polish Railways and the Polish Postal Service. The headquarters for that were here in the Polis h Post Office. It is thought that not only was the building the home of the postal service but that it also acted as the centre of the Polish government’s intelligence intelligence gathering services in the demilitarised zone. Badly damaged in the battle to flush the Polish postal ‘workers’out it was nearly completely destroyed by the end of the war. Reconstructed between 1949 and 1951, it is still a functioning post office which also houses a sm all museum dedi cated to the events of September 1, 1939 and an exhibition of local postal history from the 18th century to the outbreak of WWII.QD-2, ul. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 11, www. mhmg.pl. Open Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16 :00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 8/5zł, under-16s 1zł. Y

POST OFFICE MONUMENT Unveiled on September 1, 1979, the stainless steel Defenders of the Polish Post Monument is a fitting tribute to the heroes. The monument designed by sculptor Wincenty Kućma, represents a dying Polish post employee who is being handed a rifle, unfortunately a little too late, by Nike. 94 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

in the fi rst wave of arrests could seek German citizenship, and even pursue compensation and restitution for any property originally seized. Benign by some benchmarks, Forster was a form Nazi on others. Jews faced merciless persecution, Stutthof Stutthof emerged as a true place of terror and he is personally thought to have given the order for the mass murder of over 2,000 Poles executed between 1939 and 1940. Eventually caught and held on the Hel Peninsula trying to fl ee westwards, even his death remains a mystery - some claim he was hung in Biskupia Gora after the war, others that it was his body double who faced the hangman. Yet more sources claim he was taken to Warsaw’s Mokotow Prison and beaten to death. The truth, it appears, will never be known.

THE END For ordinary Danzigers the quality of life remained relatively good for much of the war. Zoppot/Sopot, especially, became a favourite stamping ground for soldiers on R&R, and in spite of rationing and occasional shortages life didn’t get worse until the closing stages. The fi rst warning signs that all was not well came with the fi rst air raids, yet even so allied bombers targeted the shipyards - home to munitions factories producing U-Boats and V1 and V2 rockets - and the Zaspa airfi eld. The war still seemed far off , even in 1943 when work commenced on whisking cultural treasures to locations westwards. By 1944 a different picture had emerged; Danzig had become a major transit point, not least with swarms of refugees fl eeing from the east, as well as a regular target for bombing raids. By March, 1945, with the Red Army fast approaching, the population had reached 1.5 million and city stood on the precipice of chaos. Suspected deserters were strung up from the lampposts and trees of al. Zwyciestwa (or Hindenburg Allee as it was then known), and the city descended into a Dantean vision. Historian Antony Beevor writes of the ensuing siege: ‘Fighter bombers strafed the towns and port areas. Soviet Shturmoviks treated civilian and military targets alike.  A church was as good as a bunker, esp ecially when it seemed as if the objective was to flatten every building which still protruded conspicuouslyabove the ground... Tens of thousands of women and children, terrified of losing their places in the queues to escape, provided unmissable targets’.

Danzig had been designated a closed fortress, or Festung, and the defence proved bitter and bloody. Zoppot/Sopot fell on March 21, Gotenhafen/Gdynia on March 28, and both faced the full wrath of a drunken, avenging army, spurring the defenders of Danzig to fi ght even harder to grant the remaining civilians the chance of evacuation. Encircled and out-powered, even when the opportunity to surrender was off ered the Germans continued fighting; that fires were burning a month after Danzig was captured is testament to the ferocity of the siege. Polish and Red Army troops finally entered the city on March 30; Gdansk, home to the first shots of the war, now lay adrift on a sea of rape and ruin. December 2015 - April 2016 93

WWII WESTERPLATTE A large protective arm smothering Gdańsk’s Nowy Port to its south, the peninsula of Westerplatte first sprang to fame as a popular health resort in the middle of the 19th century, although it’s as a military zone and the place where the opening shots of WWII were fired that Westerplatte is more notoriously remembered. On March 14, 1924 Poland was awarded Westerplatte as a location for bringing in military equipment and ammunition from abroad (Polish Military Transit Depot). Inaugurated on November 11, 1925 over the next 14 years Westerplatte grew from a depot with a 88-man attachment into a huge defensive fort, and was considered so strategically important to Hitler that his invasion of Poland effectively started here.  The Polish troops on Westerplatte were in effect a crack unit, by now numbering around 200 troops, whose orders were to hold for 24 hours in the event of an attack to give air, ground and sea forces the opportunity to support them from mainland Poland. The speed and strength of the German attack put paid to that plan almost immediately with the Polish navy caught out in the Bay of Gdansk and the bulk of the air support from Puck destroyed on the ground. Yet the troops on Westerplatte continued to hold out despite coming under intense bombardment by air, sea and 3,500 troops on the ground.  The hope was that France and Great Britain, who jo ined the war on September 3, would provide support but this never materialised. Eventually, on September 7, a lack of water, ammunition and medical supplies convinced the commanding offi cer Major Henryk Such arski to surrender the Poles’ heavily damaged stronghold. He and his troops left Westerplatte to salutes from their captors in recognition of their bravery in a battle that had cost just 15 Polish lives.  The battle, while of little strategic importance to the outcome of the battle for the city, still represents a source of immense pride for many Poles who recognise the bravery of their countrymen in their resistance to one of the country’s traditional foes.  Today Westerplatte is a memorial site featuring a scattering scattering of shelled bunkers, burnt-out ruins, a couple of old snack bars, souvenir stalls and a small museum open during the summer in the pivotal Guardhouse Number 1. There is also a permanent outdoor exhibition entitled ‘Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol’on display.

GUARDHOUSE NUMBER 1 A small museum adding further colour to the events of September 1939 and housed inside the former Guardhouse from which the strategic defence of Westerplatte was conducted (albeit in a different location from where it originally stood). The two shells outside were fired from the Schleiswig-Holstein during the attack. QJ-1, ul. Sucharskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 343 69 72, www.mhmg.pl. Closed until until end of April Y

NOWY PORT LIGHTHOUSE A fascinating delve into Gdańsk‘s maritime history, the city‘s Nowy Port Lighthouse was inspired by a long-lost lighthouse built in 1871 in Cleveland, Ohio, in the USA.  This o ne in front o f you was buil t in 1893, the 28- metre tower functioned as a lighthouse, harbour pilot’s tower and time-ball station until it was finally decommissioned in 1984. Its principal claim to fame is its use by German soldiers in September 1939, and it was from the upper floors that a machine gun emplacement fired the very first shots of WWII. Painstakingly restored by an amiable Polish-Canuck the centrepiece of the lighthouse is a time ball, unveiled on May 21, 2008. During its former life it was synchronised to the Royal Astronomical Observatory in Berlin but today it takes its signal from Physikalisch Technische Bundesanstalt (PTB) in B raunschweig which is broadcast as a DCF77 long-wave radio signal by the European Time Centre in Mainflingen, Germany. Timeballs were originally designed to allow ships’ captains out at sea to synchronise their on-board clocks exactly before they headed back out, the dropping of the ball being the signal to mark the hour - this would allow them to calculate longitude resulting in more accurate navigation.

instagram.com/in_your_pocket Until the end of August you can reach the lighthouse by water tram F5 from Targ Rybny which stops at the lighthouse after dropping off at Westerplatte on the opposite bank. At other times you can take any of trams 2, 3 or 8 from the Main Train Station and switch to the No 5 tram at the Wyspianskiego stop (6th stop) heading in the direction of Latarnia Morska. QI-1, ul. Przemysłowa 6a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 601 15 02 51, www.latarnia.gda.pl. Closed until end of April. YN

STATUE TO THE DEFENDERS OF WESTERPLATTE  To get to Westerplatte on public transport from the main train station in Gdansk you first need to take tram no. 8 to the Music Academy and from there catch bus N°106 to Westerplatte. During the summer months the easiest way to get out there is to take the Water Tram #5 which stops outside the Hilton in the Old Town and drops you at Westerplatte. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

THE MUSEUM OF WWII

In the southwest corner of the peninsula is a huge, 25-metre monument made of 236 granite blocks. The work of the architect Adam Haupt and sculptor Franciszek Duszenko and called Heroes of Westerplatte, the controversial grey beast was offi cially unveiled on October 9, 1966, and it’s here memorial sermons are held on each anniversary of the war.QI-1, ul. Sucharskiego, Gdańsk. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

A conflict that would go onto claim 55 million lives started here and therefore it seems appropriate that a new museum to commemorate this and to be called The Museum of the Second World War is being built in the city. With the encouragement of the Gdansk-born former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (now President of the European Council), a competition was opened to find a design for the new museum. With a judging panel which included the likes of Daniel Liebeskind and the art historian and Director of the Museum of London Jack Lohman, the Kwadrat architectural studio from the nearby city of Gdynia was chosen to design the new museum. They have created a design which they claim will become a symbol of the city in much the same way that the Crane or St. Mary ’s church are today. Currently being built on land on (D-2) ul. Wałowa donated to the museum by the city of Gdansk, the museum will find itself next to the Radunia Canal and the symbolic Polish Post Office building on Pl. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej. With over 7,000 sq. metres of exhibition space the museum is planned to cost around PLN 230 million and will create a centre for education, culture and research as well as show the tragic fate of Poland in the years 1939-1945 set against the broader background of the global conflict. The museum is now expected to open sometime in 2016. For the moment you will find a permanent outdoor exhibition located on the Westerplatte. In preparation for the opening of the new museum, the organizers have appealed for personal belongings linked to the stories of individuals and families in order to show how the huge scale destruction, terror and suffering that the war brought, touched individuals. Of interest to them are photographs, letters, personal documents, press clippings, clothing, uniforms etc. as they try to show life on all the fronts and in the different camps. Conscious of how many of these items will form important memories for families, the museum is offering to pay for items to be copied and these copies to be placed in the new museum’s collection. They ask that anyone interested in making a donation to the new museum contact them using the details here. Qul. Długa 81-83, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 75 20, [email protected], eksponaty@mu zeum1939.pl, www.muze www.muzeum1939.pl. um1939.pl. December 2015 - April 2016 95

WWII THE POST OFFICE SIEGE At just after 04:45 local time on September 1, 1939, as the Germans launched their attack on Westerplatte and WWII offi cially began, another ferocious assault was beginning at the Polish Post Offi ce in the city ’s then-called Hevelius Square. Detachments of German police and SS units lay siege to the 50 Polish post office workers inside, who put up a brave str uggle for over 17 hours until the casualties became unbearable, part of the building collapsed and the Germans began to attack with flame-throwers. One month later on October 2, 30 of the surviving postal workers were sentenced to death and subsequently shot a few weeks later (their bodies were only discovered in Zaspa Cemetery in 1991), and the whole episode has become part of modern Polish folklore. A wonderful and truly heroic story of David and Goliath proportions, what all accounts of the story fail to tell is just what a bunch of harmless postmen were doing armed to the teeth, and why it required two elite Nazi units to deal with them. The answer it seems lies in the fact that the Polish Post Office in the Free City of Danzig acted as a cover for Polish intelligence. So while the offi cial history o f the events of Sep tember 1, 1939 suggests the Nazis held Postman Patryk and his colleagues in contempt, the truth is probably the attack was a strategic attempt to quell Polish resistance in the city.

POLISH POST OFFICE During the era of the Free City the Polish state was represented by various public bodies such as Polish Railways and the Polish Postal Service. The headquarters for that were here in the Polis h Post Office. It is thought that not only was the building the home of the postal service but that it also acted as the centre of the Polish government’s intelligence intelligence gathering services in the demilitarised zone. Badly damaged in the battle to flush the Polish postal ‘workers’out it was nearly completely destroyed by the end of the war. Reconstructed between 1949 and 1951, it is still a functioning post office which also houses a sm all museum dedi cated to the events of September 1, 1939 and an exhibition of local postal history from the 18th century to the outbreak of WWII.QD-2, ul. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 11, www. mhmg.pl. Open Tue 10:00 - 13:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16 :00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 8/5zł, under-16s 1zł. Y

POST OFFICE MONUMENT Unveiled on September 1, 1979, the stainless steel Defenders of the Polish Post Monument is a fitting tribute to the heroes. The monument designed by sculptor Wincenty Kućma, represents a dying Polish post employee who is being handed a rifle, unfortunately a little too late, by Nike. 94 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

WWII WESTERPLATTE A large protective arm smothering Gdańsk’s Nowy Port to its south, the peninsula of Westerplatte first sprang to fame as a popular health resort in the middle of the 19th century, although it’s as a military zone and the place where the opening shots of WWII were fired that Westerplatte is more notoriously remembered. On March 14, 1924 Poland was awarded Westerplatte as a location for bringing in military equipment and ammunition from abroad (Polish Military Transit Depot). Inaugurated on November 11, 1925 over the next 14 years Westerplatte grew from a depot with a 88-man attachment into a huge defensive fort, and was considered so strategically important to Hitler that his invasion of Poland effectively started here.  The Polish troops on Westerplatte were in effect a crack unit, by now numbering around 200 troops, whose orders were to hold for 24 hours in the event of an attack to give air, ground and sea forces the opportunity to support them from mainland Poland. The speed and strength of the German attack put paid to that plan almost immediately with the Polish navy caught out in the Bay of Gdansk and the bulk of the air support from Puck destroyed on the ground. Yet the troops on Westerplatte continued to hold out despite coming under intense bombardment by air, sea and 3,500 troops on the ground.  The hope was that France and Great Britain, who jo ined the war on September 3, would provide support but this never materialised. Eventually, on September 7, a lack of water, ammunition and medical supplies convinced the commanding offi cer Major Henryk Such arski to surrender the Poles’ heavily damaged stronghold. He and his troops left Westerplatte to salutes from their captors in recognition of their bravery in a battle that had cost just 15 Polish lives.  The battle, while of little strategic importance to the outcome of the battle for the city, still represents a source of immense pride for many Poles who recognise the bravery of their countrymen in their resistance to one of the country’s traditional foes.  Today Westerplatte is a memorial site featuring a scattering scattering of shelled bunkers, burnt-out ruins, a couple of old snack bars, souvenir stalls and a small museum open during the summer in the pivotal Guardhouse Number 1. There is also a permanent outdoor exhibition entitled ‘Westerplatte: Spa-Bastion-Symbol’on display.

GUARDHOUSE NUMBER 1 A small museum adding further colour to the events of September 1939 and housed inside the former Guardhouse from which the strategic defence of Westerplatte was conducted (albeit in a different location from where it originally stood). The two shells outside were fired from the Schleiswig-Holstein during the attack. QJ-1, ul. Sucharskiego 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 343 69 72, www.mhmg.pl. Closed until until end of April Y

NOWY PORT LIGHTHOUSE A fascinating delve into Gdańsk‘s maritime history, the city‘s Nowy Port Lighthouse was inspired by a long-lost lighthouse built in 1871 in Cleveland, Ohio, in the USA.  This o ne in front o f you was buil t in 1893, the 28- metre tower functioned as a lighthouse, harbour pilot’s tower and time-ball station until it was finally decommissioned in 1984. Its principal claim to fame is its use by German soldiers in September 1939, and it was from the upper floors that a machine gun emplacement fired the very first shots of WWII. Painstakingly restored by an amiable Polish-Canuck the centrepiece of the lighthouse is a time ball, unveiled on May 21, 2008. During its former life it was synchronised to the Royal Astronomical Observatory in Berlin but today it takes its signal from Physikalisch Technische Bundesanstalt (PTB) in B raunschweig which is broadcast as a DCF77 long-wave radio signal by the European Time Centre in Mainflingen, Germany. Timeballs were originally designed to allow ships’ captains out at sea to synchronise their on-board clocks exactly before they headed back out, the dropping of the ball being the signal to mark the hour - this would allow them to calculate longitude resulting in more accurate navigation.

instagram.com/in_your_pocket Until the end of August you can reach the lighthouse by water tram F5 from Targ Rybny which stops at the lighthouse after dropping off at Westerplatte on the opposite bank. At other times you can take any of trams 2, 3 or 8 from the Main Train Station and switch to the No 5 tram at the Wyspianskiego stop (6th stop) heading in the direction of Latarnia Morska. QI-1, ul. Przemysłowa 6a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 601 15 02 51, www.latarnia.gda.pl. Closed until end of April. YN

STATUE TO THE DEFENDERS OF WESTERPLATTE  To get to Westerplatte on public transport from the main train station in Gdansk you first need to take tram no. 8 to the Music Academy and from there catch bus N°106 to Westerplatte. During the summer months the easiest way to get out there is to take the Water Tram #5 which stops outside the Hilton in the Old Town and drops you at Westerplatte. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

In the southwest corner of the peninsula is a huge, 25-metre monument made of 236 granite blocks. The work of the architect Adam Haupt and sculptor Franciszek Duszenko and called Heroes of Westerplatte, the controversial grey beast was offi cially unveiled on October 9, 1966, and it’s here memorial sermons are held on each anniversary of the war.QI-1, ul. Sucharskiego, Gdańsk. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Solidarity

Riding the crest of a wave Solidarity continued to lobby for further reforms and free elections, infuriating the Kremlin. With Soviet invasion a looming threat the Polish President, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declared a state of martial law on December 13, 1981, and tanks once again rolled through the streets. Though Solidarity was officially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate underground. When Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Solidarity’s chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral.

Lec h W alesa alesa is hoi sted sted t hrough hrough th  thee Lenin Shipyar d f oll  oll owi  owi ng ng the the signi   signi ng ng of th thee Au  Augus gustt Acco Accor r   , Augu ugust st 31, 31, 19  1980. 80. Stanisł  Sta nisł   Sk ład  ład anowski anowski / EC S Collection

 The word Solidarity, or Solidarność as it was in Polish, is synonymous with the city of Gdansk. Although the movement which burst into life at the time o f the shipyard strikes of 1980 is closely connected with Gdansk, the phenomenon that was Solidarność was not confined to the city. If truth be told there are other cities in Poland which feel that Gdansk has unfairly become the symbol for a movement that connected with and was born from Poles throughout the country. But for the foreign visitor with a memory of the 1980 strikes the image of Solidarity is Gdansk, its shipyards and the leader of the protests - Lech Wałęsa.  The story of Solidarity is a more complicated one than most foreign visitors will be aware of. Although the movement and the trade union were offi cially chris tened in 1980, their roots can be traced back some ten years earlier. Protesting against plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards in Gdansk and other yards in Gdynia, Elblag and Szczecin took to the streets, with the army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes led to the deaths of 44 people, and ultimately forced communist leader Władysław Gomułka out of power. Replaced by Edward Gierek, his half-mad economic policies served to create an illusion of prosperity, as well as generating a fl ush of jobs in Gdansk’s Nowy Port area. But the memory of 1970 did not fade and Gdansk remained a ticking bomb for the authorities. With the seventies drawing to a close tensions started to rise 96 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

A conflict that would go onto claim 55 million lives started here and therefore it seems appropriate that a new museum to commemorate this and to be called The Museum of the Second World War is being built in the city. With the encouragement of the Gdansk-born former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (now President of the European Council), a competition was opened to find a design for the new museum. With a judging panel which included the likes of Daniel Liebeskind and the art historian and Director of the Museum of London Jack Lohman, the Kwadrat architectural studio from the nearby city of Gdynia was chosen to design the new museum. They have created a design which they claim will become a symbol of the city in much the same way that the Crane or St. Mary ’s church are today. Currently being built on land on (D-2) ul. Wałowa donated to the museum by the city of Gdansk, the museum will find itself next to the Radunia Canal and the symbolic Polish Post Office building on Pl. Obrońców Poczty Polskiej. With over 7,000 sq. metres of exhibition space the museum is planned to cost around PLN 230 million and will create a centre for education, culture and research as well as show the tragic fate of Poland in the years 1939-1945 set against the broader background of the global conflict. The museum is now expected to open sometime in 2016. For the moment you will find a permanent outdoor exhibition located on the Westerplatte. In preparation for the opening of the new museum, the organizers have appealed for personal belongings linked to the stories of individuals and families in order to show how the huge scale destruction, terror and suffering that the war brought, touched individuals. Of interest to them are photographs, letters, personal documents, press clippings, clothing, uniforms etc. as they try to show life on all the fronts and in the different camps. Conscious of how many of these items will form important memories for families, the museum is offering to pay for items to be copied and these copies to be placed in the new museum’s collection. They ask that anyone interested in making a donation to the new museum contact them using the details here. Qul. Długa 81-83, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 323 75 20, [email protected], eksponaty@mu zeum1939.pl, www.muze www.muzeum1939.pl. um1939.pl. December 2015 - April 2016 95

Solidarity A month later, on September 22, delegates from 36 regional unions met in Gdansk forming a coalition under the name of Solidarity. Lech Wałęsa, the unlikely hero of August, was elected as chairman. The next few months marked a golden period for the nation; some ten million people  joined the Solidarity movement, and Poland enjoyed a freedom unknown for decades.

THE STORY OF SOLIDARITY

THE MUSEUM OF WWII

again, with living standards falling and the economy in huge debt built on massive foreign loans. In August, 1980 the dismissal of female crane operator,Anna Walentynowicz at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards provided the spark for workers to go on strike. Workers already disillusioned with price increases and the falling value of their salaries were ready to take action. Lech Wałęsa and other activists were already planning strike action but it soon became clear that momentum within the yard was growing quickly and it was this that spurred Wałęsa, fired from the shipyard in 1976 for anti-government activities, to famously scale the wall of the Lenin shipyard to take control. Wałęsa with his trademark sharp trading managed to steer his colleagues away from mere wage demands towards the idea of creating a trade union movement to represent the workers and to fight injustice.  This time the workers learned from the mistakes of 1970 and did not confront the authorities but instead locked themselves into the shipyards. Three days later leaders representing workers from over 150 industrial plants, as well as crucially members from across the social spectrum in the country, met in the shipyards to hammer out 21 demands, including the legalisation of independent trade unions. Days of tension followed, with tanks and armed units stationed menacingly outside the gates of the yards. On August 31 the government backed down, agreeing to meet the 21 demands - thereby marking the first peaceful victory over communism. The agreement was famously signed in the shipyards by Lech Wałęsa using a large souvenir Pope John Paul II pen. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first postcommunist election the party swept to victory, with Wałęsa leading from the front. Lech Wałęsa became the first freely elected president of Poland in December 1990 and served until 1995 when he lost the following election to Aleksander Kwasniewski, a former communist. In spite of overseeing Poland’s transition to a market economy, the members of Solidarity started to splinter into new political groupings and the party gradually found its power being eroded by the emergence of fresher political parties. The 2000 elections for the Sejm (lower parliament) sounded the death knell for the party. Failing to even make the minimum vote to qualify for representation in parliament, the party which changed history found itself out of active politics. In recent years it has once again become the voice of protest as it campaigns against government policies such as job cuts and the raising of the pension age as Poland’s largest trade union.

Walesa speaks

 Alojzy Tomaszewski  Tomaszewski 

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

 AUGUST ACCORDS ACCORDS 1. Acceptance of free trade unions independent of the Communist 1. Acceptance Party and of enterprises, in accordance with convention No. 87 of the International Labor Organization concerning the right to form free trade unions, which was ratified by the Communist Government of Poland. 2. A guarantee of the right to strike and of the security of strikers and those aiding them. 3. Compliance with the constitutional guarantee of freedom of speech, the press and publication, including freedom for independent publishers, and the availability of the mass media to representatives of all faiths. 4. A return of former rights to: 1) People dismissed from work after the 1970 and 1976 strikes, and 2) Students expelled from school because of their views. The release of all political prisoners, among them Edward Zadrozynski, Jan Kozlowski, and Marek Kozlowski. A halt in repression of the individual because of personal conviction. 5. Availability to the mass media of information about the formation of the Inter-factory Strike Committee and publication of its demands. 6. The 6.  The undertaking of actions aimed at bringing the country out of its crisis situation by the following means: a) making public complete information about the social-economic situation, and b) enabling all sectors and social classes to take part in discussion of the reform programme. 7. Compensation of all workers taking part in the strike for the period of the strike, with vacation pay from the Central Council of Trade Unions. 8. An increase in the base pay of each worker by 2,000 złoty a month as compensation for the recent raise in prices. 9. Guaranteed automatic increases in pay on the basis of increases in prices and the decline in real income. 10. A full supply of food products for the domestic market, with exports limited to surpluses. 11. The 11.  The abolition of ‘commercial’p rices and of other sa les for hard currency in special shops. 12. The 12.  The selection of management personnel on the basis of qualifications, not party membership. Privileges of the secret police, regular police and party apparatus are to be eliminated by equalizing family subsidies, abolishing special stores, etc. 13.  The introduction of food coupons for meat and meat products (during the period in which control of the market situation is regained). 14. Reduction in the age for retirement for women to 50 and for men to 55, or after 30 years’employment in Poland for women and 35 years for men, regardless of age. 15. Conformity of old-age pensions and annuities with what has actually been paid in. 16. Improvements in the working conditions of the health service to insure full medical care for workers. 17. Assurances of a reasonable number of places in day-care centers and kindergartens for the children of working mothers. 18. Paid maternity leave for three years. 19. A decrease in the waiting period for apartments. 20. An increase in the commuter’s allowance to 100 złoty from 40, with a supplemental benefit on separation. 21. A day of rest on Saturday. Workers in the brigade system or round-the-clock ock jobs are to be compensated for the loss of free Saturdays with an increased leave or other paid time off.

December 2015 - April 2016 97

Solidarity

Solidarity A month later, on September 22, delegates from 36 regional unions met in Gdansk forming a coalition under the name of Solidarity. Lech Wałęsa, the unlikely hero of August, was elected as chairman. The next few months marked a golden period for the nation; some ten million people  joined the Solidarity movement, and Poland enjoyed a freedom unknown for decades. Riding the crest of a wave Solidarity continued to lobby for further reforms and free elections, infuriating the Kremlin. With Soviet invasion a looming threat the Polish President, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declared a state of martial law on December 13, 1981, and tanks once again rolled through the streets. Though Solidarity was officially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate underground. When Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, Solidarity’s chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral.

Lec h W alesa alesa is hoi sted sted t hrough hrough th  thee Lenin Shipyar d f oll  oll owi  owi ng ng the the signi   signi ng ng of th thee Au  Augus gustt Acco Accor r   , Augu ugust st 31, 31, 19  1980. 80. Stanisł  Sta nisł   Sk ład  ład anowski anowski / EC S Collection

THE STORY OF SOLIDARITY  The word Solidarity, or Solidarność as it was in Polish, is synonymous with the city of Gdansk. Although the movement which burst into life at the time o f the shipyard strikes of 1980 is closely connected with Gdansk, the phenomenon that was Solidarność was not confined to the city. If truth be told there are other cities in Poland which feel that Gdansk has unfairly become the symbol for a movement that connected with and was born from Poles throughout the country. But for the foreign visitor with a memory of the 1980 strikes the image of Solidarity is Gdansk, its shipyards and the leader of the protests - Lech Wałęsa.  The story of Solidarity is a more complicated one than most foreign visitors will be aware of. Although the movement and the trade union were offi cially chris tened in 1980, their roots can be traced back some ten years earlier. Protesting against plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards in Gdansk and other yards in Gdynia, Elblag and Szczecin took to the streets, with the army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes led to the deaths of 44 people, and ultimately forced communist leader Władysław Gomułka out of power. Replaced by Edward Gierek, his half-mad economic policies served to create an illusion of prosperity, as well as generating a fl ush of jobs in Gdansk’s Nowy Port area. But the memory of 1970 did not fade and Gdansk remained a ticking bomb for the authorities. With the seventies drawing to a close tensions started to rise

again, with living standards falling and the economy in huge debt built on massive foreign loans. In August, 1980 the dismissal of female crane operator,Anna Walentynowicz at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards provided the spark for workers to go on strike. Workers already disillusioned with price increases and the falling value of their salaries were ready to take action. Lech Wałęsa and other activists were already planning strike action but it soon became clear that momentum within the yard was growing quickly and it was this that spurred Wałęsa, fired from the shipyard in 1976 for anti-government activities, to famously scale the wall of the Lenin shipyard to take control. Wałęsa with his trademark sharp trading managed to steer his colleagues away from mere wage demands towards the idea of creating a trade union movement to represent the workers and to fight injustice.  This time the workers learned from the mistakes of 1970 and did not confront the authorities but instead locked themselves into the shipyards. Three days later leaders representing workers from over 150 industrial plants, as well as crucially members from across the social spectrum in the country, met in the shipyards to hammer out 21 demands, including the legalisation of independent trade unions. Days of tension followed, with tanks and armed units stationed menacingly outside the gates of the yards. On August 31 the government backed down, agreeing to meet the 21 demands - thereby marking the first peaceful victory over communism. The agreement was famously signed in the shipyards by Lech Wałęsa using a large souvenir Pope John Paul II pen.

96 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Participating in Poland’s first postcommunist election the party swept to victory, with Wałęsa leading from the front. Lech Wałęsa became the first freely elected president of Poland in December 1990 and served until 1995 when he lost the following election to Aleksander Kwasniewski, a former communist. In spite of overseeing Poland’s transition to a market economy, the members of Solidarity started to splinter into new political groupings and the party gradually found its power being eroded by the emergence of fresher political parties. The 2000 elections for the Sejm (lower parliament) sounded the death knell for the party. Failing to even make the minimum vote to qualify for representation in parliament, the party which changed history found itself out of active politics. In recent years it has once again become the voice of protest as it campaigns against government policies such as job cuts and the raising of the pension age as Poland’s largest trade union.

Walesa speaks

 Alojzy Tomaszewski  Tomaszewski 

 AUGUST ACCORDS ACCORDS 1. Acceptance of free trade unions independent of the Communist 1. Acceptance Party and of enterprises, in accordance with convention No. 87 of the International Labor Organization concerning the right to form free trade unions, which was ratified by the Communist Government of Poland. 2. A guarantee of the right to strike and of the security of strikers and those aiding them. 3. Compliance with the constitutional guarantee of freedom of speech, the press and publication, including freedom for independent publishers, and the availability of the mass media to representatives of all faiths. 4. A return of former rights to: 1) People dismissed from work after the 1970 and 1976 strikes, and 2) Students expelled from school because of their views. The release of all political prisoners, among them Edward Zadrozynski, Jan Kozlowski, and Marek Kozlowski. A halt in repression of the individual because of personal conviction. 5. Availability to the mass media of information about the formation of the Inter-factory Strike Committee and publication of its demands. 6. The 6.  The undertaking of actions aimed at bringing the country out of its crisis situation by the following means: a) making public complete information about the social-economic situation, and b) enabling all sectors and social classes to take part in discussion of the reform programme. 7. Compensation of all workers taking part in the strike for the period of the strike, with vacation pay from the Central Council of Trade Unions. 8. An increase in the base pay of each worker by 2,000 złoty a month as compensation for the recent raise in prices. 9. Guaranteed automatic increases in pay on the basis of increases in prices and the decline in real income. 10. A full supply of food products for the domestic market, with exports limited to surpluses. 11. The 11.  The abolition of ‘commercial’p rices and of other sa les for hard currency in special shops. 12. The 12.  The selection of management personnel on the basis of qualifications, not party membership. Privileges of the secret police, regular police and party apparatus are to be eliminated by equalizing family subsidies, abolishing special stores, etc. 13.  The introduction of food coupons for meat and meat products (during the period in which control of the market situation is regained). 14. Reduction in the age for retirement for women to 50 and for men to 55, or after 30 years’employment in Poland for women and 35 years for men, regardless of age. 15. Conformity of old-age pensions and annuities with what has actually been paid in. 16. Improvements in the working conditions of the health service to insure full medical care for workers. 17. Assurances of a reasonable number of places in day-care centers and kindergartens for the children of working mothers. 18. Paid maternity leave for three years. 19. A decrease in the waiting period for apartments. 20. An increase in the commuter’s allowance to 100 złoty from 40, with a supplemental benefit on separation. 21. A day of rest on Saturday. Workers in the brigade system or round-the-clock ock jobs are to be compensated for the loss of free Saturdays with an increased leave or other paid time off.

December 2015 - April 2016 97

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Solidarity

Solidarity

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE  The huge construction you can can see next to the entrance entrance to the Gdansk Shipyards is the new European Solidarity Centre which opened on August 30, 2014, the 34th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords. The 5-storey building, which has been designed to give the impression of walls cracking and tilting and is covered in rust-coloured sheet metal reminiscent of a ship’s hull, has been a project many years in the making. It was finally signed into life in 2005 on the 25th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords when a Founding Act was signed in Solidarity Square by 29 joint-signatories including EU Commission chief Jose Manuel Barroso, Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski and Solidarity legend and former President Lech Walesa.

 The building is free to enter and to move around - there are no scowling security men on the door. The major attraction for the foreign visitor is the permanent exhibition spread over two floors, seven different halls and occupying 3,000m2. This is the one part of the centre for which you need a ticket. This permanent exhibition tells the story of Solidarity; where it began, how it grew and ultimately where it led the people of Poland and the occupied countries of the Communist Bloc. For those familiar with the highly-regarded Roads to Freedom (Drogi do Wolnosci) exhibition, this is its successor and aims to build upon its legacy and develop the story further. It combines traditional display methods with some truly impressive state-of-theart technology which allows visitors access to authentic artefacts, 3D projections, photographs, film, declassified security service documents and interactive displays.

Discover history Discover and decide about the future

ECS PERMANENT EXHIBITION  The first hall (A) you will enter is called ‘The Birth of Solidarność and is devoted to the strikes of August 1980. You’ll see the cab of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, whose sacking close to her retirement created the spark that saw the shipyard rise up in protest. Authentic materials salvaged from the shipyard are used to tell the story with the former canteen table now supporting the interactive terminals and former workers helmets suspended over visitors’heads onto which archive film is projected. Jaruzelski announces Martial Law

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

 There are a number of aims to the centre. First and foremost it is designed to be a symbol of the victory of the Solidarity movement and the way that victory was achieved peacefully thanks to the power of people uniting in solidarity with each other. It is both definitions of this word that the centre’s organisers want to pay tribute to and to develop further. The proclamation issued by the jointsignatories in 2005 stated that they wanted the European Solidarity Centre to “become the world’s centre for the ideas of freedom, democracy and solidarity to be fostered”. fostered”.  The building is centred around a permanent exhibition dedicated to the history of Solidarity and the opposition, which led to the democratic transformation of the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. But the exhibition forms just a part of the European Solidarity Centre’s daily function. The building features a library, reading rooms and archives which are completely accessible to researchers and any interested reader alike. The conference rooms and other spaces, such as the winter garden on the ground floor, host debates and concerts serving projects of both the ESC and outside associations aimed at working towards the common good. A viewing terrace on the roof allows visitors to look out over the remains of the Lenin Shipyards where the Solidarity movement was born. The warmer months will see a bar opened here as well. 98 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Moving into hall B, entitled ‘The Power of the Powerless’, you see the world that preceded the strikes of 1980 which give you an insight into the roots of the opposition movement and what the totalitarian regime looked and felt like. There are operational records from the security services and memories of the failed protests in 1970 which resulted in 45 deaths as they were ruthlessly crushed by security and military personnel. Hall C brings you into the room dedicated to ‘Solidarność and Hope’. It’s here that you get a sense of the unexpected and unfamiliar freedom the strikes bought the country in August 1980 and the sixteen months that followed until the movement was outlawed and the country placed under Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Visitors are guided by a white and red trail which when reflected into the ceiling panel forms the legendary trade union’s logo.

Open: Monday - Sunday / from 10 a.m. to  p.m.        Ticket prices, information and booking: +48 506 195 673 | [email protected] ecs.g ecs. g Gdańsk, 1 Solidarity Sq.

a.p

Next comes ‘The War with Society’and you are graphically given a sense of how the freedom and hope of the sixteen months following August 1980 was systematically destroyed. The space narrows and visitors are ushered toward a Militia van with the riot shields of Zomo (the armed paramilitary police) pressing you deeper into the hall. The terror and dread of the Martial Law period are conveyed while you witness the activity in the underground Solidarity movement as they try to rally the people to stand firm and resist. This chapter of the exhibition ends with the award of the Nobel Peace Prize to Lech Walesa in 1983.

democracy. Countries were reborn and countless new states emerged. As Lech Walesa later told President Barack Obama, “(the Poles) smashed the teeth of the Soviet bear and when he couldn’t bite anymore, the rest of the nations made their own freedom”. Visitors are invited to add their tickets to the stack of those who have visited before in a symbol of solidarity.

Hall E hosts ‘The Road to Democracy’ and demonstrates the important role played by Polish-born Pope John Paul II (the former Bishop o f Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyla). His messages of hope delivered during his pilgrimages to his homeland fuelled the struggle for freedom and inspired youth movements and society as a whole to renew their fight. The growing demands and the worsening economic crisis resulted in the governing regime agreeing to the Round Table talks in 1989. The subsequent partly-free elections saw Solidarity storm to victory and saw Poland become the first Communist Bloc country to win its freedom.

Excellent audio guides are available in Polish, English, French, German, Russian, Spanish and the local Kashubian language. There is audio description for the visually impaired and sign language and loops for the hearing impaired. The entire space is designed to be accessible to all. You’ll also find a gift shop, cafe, restaurant, a roof-top terrace (with summer-time bar) where you can view the remains of the surrounding shipyards and relax and reflect on what is a very good portrayal of the Solidarity story indeed.

As well as visiting the exhibition you can also take a moment to visit the ‘Pope John Paul II Hall’to reflect as you look out through the windows onto the Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers.

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE B-1, Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 11, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to the permanent exhibition 17/13zł, family ticket 47zł. Y Q

Walesa back on the truck

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

‘The triumph of Freedom’in the final hall shows how the changes in Poland reverberated across the Communist Bloc as country after country rose up and demanded facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 99

Solidarity

Solidarity

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE  The huge construction you can can see next to the entrance entrance to the Gdansk Shipyards is the new European Solidarity Centre which opened on August 30, 2014, the 34th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords. The 5-storey building, which has been designed to give the impression of walls cracking and tilting and is covered in rust-coloured sheet metal reminiscent of a ship’s hull, has been a project many years in the making. It was finally signed into life in 2005 on the 25th anniversary of the signing of the August Accords when a Founding Act was signed in Solidarity Square by 29 joint-signatories including EU Commission chief Jose Manuel Barroso, Polish President Aleksander Kwasniewski and Solidarity legend and former President Lech Walesa.

 The building is free to enter and to move around - there are no scowling security men on the door. The major attraction for the foreign visitor is the permanent exhibition spread over two floors, seven different halls and occupying 3,000m2. This is the one part of the centre for which you need a ticket. This permanent exhibition tells the story of Solidarity; where it began, how it grew and ultimately where it led the people of Poland and the occupied countries of the Communist Bloc. For those familiar with the highly-regarded Roads to Freedom (Drogi do Wolnosci) exhibition, this is its successor and aims to build upon its legacy and develop the story further. It combines traditional display methods with some truly impressive state-of-theart technology which allows visitors access to authentic artefacts, 3D projections, photographs, film, declassified security service documents and interactive displays.

Discover history Discover and decide about the future

ECS PERMANENT EXHIBITION  The first hall (A) you will enter is called ‘The Birth of Solidarność and is devoted to the strikes of August 1980. You’ll see the cab of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, whose sacking close to her retirement created the spark that saw the shipyard rise up in protest. Authentic materials salvaged from the shipyard are used to tell the story with the former canteen table now supporting the interactive terminals and former workers helmets suspended over visitors’heads onto which archive film is projected. Jaruzelski announces Martial Law

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

 There are a number of aims to the centre. First and foremost it is designed to be a symbol of the victory of the Solidarity movement and the way that victory was achieved peacefully thanks to the power of people uniting in solidarity with each other. It is both definitions of this word that the centre’s organisers want to pay tribute to and to develop further. The proclamation issued by the jointsignatories in 2005 stated that they wanted the European Solidarity Centre to “become the world’s centre for the ideas of freedom, democracy and solidarity to be fostered”. fostered”.  The building is centred around a permanent exhibition dedicated to the history of Solidarity and the opposition, which led to the democratic transformation of the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. But the exhibition forms just a part of the European Solidarity Centre’s daily function. The building features a library, reading rooms and archives which are completely accessible to researchers and any interested reader alike. The conference rooms and other spaces, such as the winter garden on the ground floor, host debates and concerts serving projects of both the ESC and outside associations aimed at working towards the common good. A viewing terrace on the roof allows visitors to look out over the remains of the Lenin Shipyards where the Solidarity movement was born. The warmer months will see a bar opened here as well.

Moving into hall B, entitled ‘The Power of the Powerless’, you see the world that preceded the strikes of 1980 which give you an insight into the roots of the opposition movement and what the totalitarian regime looked and felt like. There are operational records from the security services and memories of the failed protests in 1970 which resulted in 45 deaths as they were ruthlessly crushed by security and military personnel. Hall C brings you into the room dedicated to ‘Solidarność and Hope’. It’s here that you get a sense of the unexpected and unfamiliar freedom the strikes bought the country in August 1980 and the sixteen months that followed until the movement was outlawed and the country placed under Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Visitors are guided by a white and red trail which when reflected into the ceiling panel forms the legendary trade union’s logo.

Open: Monday - Sunday / from 10 a.m. to  p.m.        Ticket prices, information and booking: +48 506 195 673 | [email protected] ecs.g ecs. g Gdańsk, 1 Solidarity Sq.

Next comes ‘The War with Society’and you are graphically given a sense of how the freedom and hope of the sixteen months following August 1980 was systematically destroyed. The space narrows and visitors are ushered toward a Militia van with the riot shields of Zomo (the armed paramilitary police) pressing you deeper into the hall. The terror and dread of the Martial Law period are conveyed while you witness the activity in the underground Solidarity movement as they try to rally the people to stand firm and resist. This chapter of the exhibition ends with the award of the Nobel Peace Prize to Lech Walesa in 1983.

democracy. Countries were reborn and countless new states emerged. As Lech Walesa later told President Barack Obama, “(the Poles) smashed the teeth of the Soviet bear and when he couldn’t bite anymore, the rest of the nations made their own freedom”. Visitors are invited to add their tickets to the stack of those who have visited before in a symbol of solidarity.

Hall E hosts ‘The Road to Democracy’ and demonstrates the important role played by Polish-born Pope John Paul II (the former Bishop o f Krakow Cardinal Karol Wojtyla). His messages of hope delivered during his pilgrimages to his homeland fuelled the struggle for freedom and inspired youth movements and society as a whole to renew their fight. The growing demands and the worsening economic crisis resulted in the governing regime agreeing to the Round Table talks in 1989. The subsequent partly-free elections saw Solidarity storm to victory and saw Poland become the first Communist Bloc country to win its freedom.

Excellent audio guides are available in Polish, English, French, German, Russian, Spanish and the local Kashubian language. There is audio description for the visually impaired and sign language and loops for the hearing impaired. The entire space is designed to be accessible to all. You’ll also find a gift shop, cafe, restaurant, a roof-top terrace (with summer-time bar) where you can view the remains of the surrounding shipyards and relax and reflect on what is a very good portrayal of the Solidarity story indeed.

Walesa back on the truck

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

‘The triumph of Freedom’in the final hall shows how the changes in Poland reverberated across the Communist Bloc as country after country rose up and demanded facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Solidarity Credited as the driving force behind the Solidarity movement, as well as the man who revived a postcommunist Poland, Lech Walesa remains, for many, the public face of Poland, as well as Gdańsk’s most famous resident. Born on September 23, 1943 Walesa’s early life was largely anonymous. Working in his early days as a mechanic it was only in 1967 when he began work at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards that he began his rise to prominence. A keen trade unionist he frequently found himself in trouble with the authorities, and his political activities led to a stint in prison that ultimately cost him his job. In 1980, with the shipyards on strike, an unemployed Walesa scaled a wall, gave an impromptu speech and found himself thrust into the spotlight as the accidental hero of the protests. Having successfully led negotiations for workers rights it was he who signed the August Accords of 1980. Ear-marked by the government as an undesirable influence he was immediately placed under arrest when martial law was announced in 1981. Released a year later, Walesa’s actions and those he represented were recognised in 1983 when he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. As the figurehead of the Solidarity movement, and with the communist state crumbling, Walesa led roundtable talks with the government to formulate a power-sharing scheme. Partly free elections in 1989 led to blanket wins for Solidarity, signalling the last days of communism. In 1990 he became Poland’s first democratically elected, post-communist president, a position he held until 1995. Respected and admired as an opposition leader, Walesa Walesa saw his popularity seriously wane while in power. Many Poles began to consider his blunt speaking, lack of English and often poor use of Polish as not befitting a head of state. He was famously quoted as having told the British Queen that the bed he had slept in at Buckingham Palace had been so big that he’d had diffi culty findi ng his wife. Mr. Walesa and his wi fe have eight children. Mr Walesa was voted out of offi ce in 199 5 beaten by Aleksander Kwasniewski, who although being a former Communist, was seen as a better representative abroad. Many of Mr. Walesa’s generation accused him of having failed to deliver on many of his promises, having stolen the glory for the people’s revolution and even having worked for the secret services under communism. However in recent years Mr. Walesa’s popularity appears to have begun to grow again with a certain fondness for him becoming visible particularly from the younger generations. Since his political retirement he spends his days often lecturing abroad speaking on subjects close to his heart: democracy, civil liberty and the free market. 100 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

As well as visiting the exhibition you can also take a moment to visit the ‘Pope John Paul II Hall’to reflect as you look out through the windows onto the Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers.

EUROPEAN SOLIDARITY CENTRE B-1, Pl. Solidarności 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 41 11, www.ecs.gda.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to the permanent exhibition 17/13zł, family ticket 47zł. Y Q

98 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ŁĘSA  LECH WA ŁĘ

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December 2015 - April 2016 99

Solidarity WHAT WHA T TO SEE HISTORICAL GATE #2 OF THE GDANSK SHIPYARD

 The monument is marked by a poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz: ‘You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down’. QB-1, Pl. Solidarności, Gdańsk.

ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH

Historic Gate #2

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

 The #2 gate of the Gdansk Shipyards is where Lech Walesa Walesa stood to announce to the waiting crowds the deal that had been struck with the Communist government in 1980. The image of the gate decked in flowers and images of Pope John Paul II is one of the most enduring of that era and the gate has since been listed as an historical monument. Even today you’ll still see flowers placed here alongside the picture of the Pope. The gate was the scene of clashes in 2012 when the Lenin Shipyard name was put back over the entrance as part of the making of Andrzej Wajda’s film ‘Walesa’, when protestors covered it in red paint. Qul. Doki 1.

JAN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT A large bronze statue built in 1897 in memory of the Polish king who reigned in the 17th century and famously defeated the Turks at the gates of Vienna; thereby saving Europe from the Ottoman hordes. Originally displayed in Lviv, the monument was moved to Warsaw in 1950 before finally being shifted to Gdańsk in 1965. During martial law the monument became the starting point for several demonstrations and marches. QB-3, Targ Drzewny, Gdansk.

MONUMENT OF THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS Lying right outside famous gate no. 2 to the Gdansk Shipyards (formally the Lenin Shipyards) the monument was unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970 when 45 people died during street riots protesting against the communist regime. Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidarity’s main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre, 139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed.  There are three crosses to represent the three victims and the crosses themselves signify the suffering and sacrifice of all the protesters. At the top you see anchors signifying the men’s profession and in the lower reaches the figures of their struggling comrades are depicted. Solidarity leader Lech Walesa referred to this enormous steel structure as “a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it.” gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The paris h church of the Gdans k Shipyard s, the pari sh at St. Bridget’s dates back to the late 14th century although the church was only rebuilt in 1973, and was home to the controversial anti-communist parish priest Father Henryk Jankowski. Father Jankowski was a strong critic of the communist regime and a strong supporter of the strikers particularly during the strikes when he would hold mass each morning in the yards. The church is an interesting stop as there a number of artefacts and memorials relating to Solidarnosc and you’ll also find a statue to the late Father Jankowski who died in 2010. Q C-2/3, ul. Profesorska 17, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 31 52, www.brygida.gdansk.pl. www.brygida.gdansk.pl. Open only at mass times.

WAŁĘSA’S WALL In 1980, as tensions rose quickly inside the shipyard following the sacking of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, the man who would become the face of the opposition found himself locked outside the yard. Lech Walesa had been fired himself a few years previously for his opposition to the shipyard bosses and government and with events on the other side of the wall threatening to escalate quickly and jeopardise protests already planned by Walesa and his activist colleagues, Walesa scaled a shipyard wall to take control of the strike. This story has become the stuff of legend but the fact is Walesa really did scale a wall on ul. Robotnicza to get into the closed yard. The section of wall over which Walesa climbed was cut out and placed on display next to a s ection of the Berlin Wall between the shipyards and railway station where it proudly stood until it was destroyed by a car crashing into it. The wall is now just a cordoned off pile of bricks while the authorities decide what to do with them. QB-1, ul. Wały Piastowskie 24, Gdańsk.

JANEK WISNIEWSKI It was not by accident that the strikers of 1980 confronted the authorities not face-on but instead by locking themselves into the Lenin Shipyards. Lessons from unrest in 1970 had been learnt and the leaders of the strikes realised that public demonstrations were likely to be met with the full-force of the State’s security apparatus. This is exactly what had happened in Gdynia in December 1970 when shipyard workers from there (along with workers from Szczecin, Elblag and Gdansk) demonstrated against sudden price rises and food shortages. The authorities, conscious of the potential of a full-out workers’ revolt reacted by sending in armed units of army and militia who opened fire on the protesting workers. Exact numbers of dead and wounded are unclear but it is thought that over 40 people were killed in the wave of protests including one young man who would become known as Janek Wiśniewski. Protestors carried Wiśniewski’s body through the streets of Gdynia on a door and this image was to become one of the most striking of the decades of unrest in Poland. The young man had been shot 3 times and his blood-stained body was to become a symbol representing all of the victims of this unrest.  The body was actually that of an 18-year old man named Zbigniew Godlewski from nearby Elblag who was employed in the shipyards in Gdynia. At the time the body was being carried through the streets people were still unclear as to his true identity and a local songwriter, Krzysztof Dowigałło, penned a ballad to this unknown victim whom he named with a common name - Janek Wiśniewski. The ballad became a popular protest song and the young man became a legend.  The body of the young man was originally buried in Gdansk Oliwa before his family managed to get it moved to his home-town of Elblag. After the fall of communism streets in both Gdynia and Gdansk were renamed after the fictional character of Janek Wiśniewski while streets in his hometown of Elblag and Zielona Gora, where he spent his childhood holidays, were renamed after the real person of Zbigniew Godlewski. The story of Wiśniewski was told in the 1981 film Man of Iron and the events are also retold in the 2011 film Czarny czwartek (Black Thursday).  The last verse of the Ballad of Janek Wiśniewski gives you an idea of the power of the ballad inspired by this young man from Elblag. Don’t cry mothers, it wasn’t for naught  There’s a flag with black ribbon over the shipyard  For bread and freedom, and a new Poland   Janek Wiśniewski fell  fell 

 The body of Janek Wisniewski

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

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December 2015 - April 2016 101

Solidarity ŁĘSA  LECH WA ŁĘ Credited as the driving force behind the Solidarity movement, as well as the man who revived a postcommunist Poland, Lech Walesa remains, for many, the public face of Poland, as well as Gdańsk’s most famous resident. Born on September 23, 1943 Walesa’s early life was largely anonymous. Working in his early days as a mechanic it was only in 1967 when he began work at Gdansk’s Lenin Shipyards that he began his rise to prominence. A keen trade unionist he frequently found himself in trouble with the authorities, and his political activities led to a stint in prison that ultimately cost him his job. In 1980, with the shipyards on strike, an unemployed Walesa scaled a wall, gave an impromptu speech and found himself thrust into the spotlight as the accidental hero of the protests. Having successfully led negotiations for workers rights it was he who signed the August Accords of 1980. Ear-marked by the government as an undesirable influence he was immediately placed under arrest when martial law was announced in 1981. Released a year later, Walesa’s actions and those he represented were recognised in 1983 when he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. As the figurehead of the Solidarity movement, and with the communist state crumbling, Walesa led roundtable talks with the government to formulate a power-sharing scheme. Partly free elections in 1989 led to blanket wins for Solidarity, signalling the last days of communism. In 1990 he became Poland’s first democratically elected, post-communist president, a position he held until 1995. Respected and admired as an opposition leader, Walesa Walesa saw his popularity seriously wane while in power. Many Poles began to consider his blunt speaking, lack of English and often poor use of Polish as not befitting a head of state. He was famously quoted as having told the British Queen that the bed he had slept in at Buckingham Palace had been so big that he’d had diffi culty findi ng his wife. Mr. Walesa and his wi fe have eight children. Mr Walesa was voted out of offi ce in 199 5 beaten by Aleksander Kwasniewski, who although being a former Communist, was seen as a better representative abroad. Many of Mr. Walesa’s generation accused him of having failed to deliver on many of his promises, having stolen the glory for the people’s revolution and even having worked for the secret services under communism. However in recent years Mr. Walesa’s popularity appears to have begun to grow again with a certain fondness for him becoming visible particularly from the younger generations. Since his political retirement he spends his days often lecturing abroad speaking on subjects close to his heart: democracy, civil liberty and the free market.

Solidarity WHAT WHA T TO SEE HISTORICAL GATE #2 OF THE GDANSK SHIPYARD

 The monument is marked by a poignant inscription by Czesław Miłosz: ‘You who have harmed simple man, mocking him with your laughter, you kill him, someone else will be born, and your deeds and words will be written down’. QB-1, Pl. Solidarności, Gdańsk.

ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH

Historic Gate #2

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

 The #2 gate of the Gdansk Shipyards is where Lech Walesa Walesa stood to announce to the waiting crowds the deal that had been struck with the Communist government in 1980. The image of the gate decked in flowers and images of Pope John Paul II is one of the most enduring of that era and the gate has since been listed as an historical monument. Even today you’ll still see flowers placed here alongside the picture of the Pope. The gate was the scene of clashes in 2012 when the Lenin Shipyard name was put back over the entrance as part of the making of Andrzej Wajda’s film ‘Walesa’, when protestors covered it in red paint. Qul. Doki 1.

JAN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT A large bronze statue built in 1897 in memory of the Polish king who reigned in the 17th century and famously defeated the Turks at the gates of Vienna; thereby saving Europe from the Ottoman hordes. Originally displayed in Lviv, the monument was moved to Warsaw in 1950 before finally being shifted to Gdańsk in 1965. During martial law the monument became the starting point for several demonstrations and marches. QB-3, Targ Drzewny, Gdansk.

MONUMENT OF THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS Lying right outside famous gate no. 2 to the Gdansk Shipyards (formally the Lenin Shipyards) the monument was unveiled in 1980 to commemorate the events of 1970 when 45 people died during street riots protesting against the communist regime. Along with wage demands and the right to form free trade unions, the right to erect this memorial was one of Solidarity’s main demands during the 1980 lock-in. The 42-metre, 139-tonne steel sculpture stands on the spot where the first three victims of the 1970 riots were killed.  There are three crosses to represent the three victims and the crosses themselves signify the suffering and sacrifice of all the protesters. At the top you see anchors signifying the men’s profession and in the lower reaches the figures of their struggling comrades are depicted. Solidarity leader Lech Walesa referred to this enormous steel structure as “a harpoon driven through the body of a whale. No matter how hard the whale struggles, it can never get rid of it.”

100 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The paris h church of the Gdans k Shipyard s, the pari sh at St. Bridget’s dates back to the late 14th century although the church was only rebuilt in 1973, and was home to the controversial anti-communist parish priest Father Henryk Jankowski. Father Jankowski was a strong critic of the communist regime and a strong supporter of the strikers particularly during the strikes when he would hold mass each morning in the yards. The church is an interesting stop as there a number of artefacts and memorials relating to Solidarnosc and you’ll also find a statue to the late Father Jankowski who died in 2010. Q C-2/3, ul. Profesorska 17, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 31 52, www.brygida.gdansk.pl. www.brygida.gdansk.pl. Open only at mass times.

WAŁĘSA’S WALL In 1980, as tensions rose quickly inside the shipyard following the sacking of crane operator Anna Walentynowicz, the man who would become the face of the opposition found himself locked outside the yard. Lech Walesa had been fired himself a few years previously for his opposition to the shipyard bosses and government and with events on the other side of the wall threatening to escalate quickly and jeopardise protests already planned by Walesa and his activist colleagues, Walesa scaled a shipyard wall to take control of the strike. This story has become the stuff of legend but the fact is Walesa really did scale a wall on ul. Robotnicza to get into the closed yard. The section of wall over which Walesa climbed was cut out and placed on display next to a s ection of the Berlin Wall between the shipyards and railway station where it proudly stood until it was destroyed by a car crashing into it. The wall is now just a cordoned off pile of bricks while the authorities decide what to do with them. QB-1, ul. Wały Piastowskie 24, Gdańsk.

Malbork can be reached easily in a car thanks to the nearby A1 highway which runs south from Gdansk passing by Malbork on its way. If you are coming from Warsaw it is recommended that you head east out of the city following signs for the A2 autostrada to Lodz and Poznan. Approximately 100km from Warsaw you should turn north onto the A1 towards Gdansk. Whichever way you approach from you should turn off onto route 22 which will bring you into the centre of Malbork in about 15 minutes. The castle will be on your left as you enter the town. Alternatively you can hire a taxi to take you and bring you back. While considerably more expensive than the train, the cost is still not prohibitive to most western visitors especially if there are a few of you. To book a taxi from Gdansk, which will cost you a minimum of 200zł depending on waiting time, call Neptun Taxi Taxi on (+48) 58 511 15 55. 102 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Protestors carried Wiśniewski’s body through the streets of Gdynia on a door and this image was to become one of the most striking of the decades of unrest in Poland. The young man had been shot 3 times and his blood-stained body was to become a symbol representing all of the victims of this unrest.  The body was actually that of an 18-year old man named Zbigniew Godlewski from nearby Elblag who was employed in the shipyards in Gdynia. At the time the body was being carried through the streets people were still unclear as to his true identity and a local songwriter, Krzysztof Dowigałło, penned a ballad to this unknown victim whom he named with a common name - Janek Wiśniewski. The ballad became a popular protest song and the young man became a legend.  The body of the young man was originally buried in Gdansk Oliwa before his family managed to get it moved to his home-town of Elblag. After the fall of communism streets in both Gdynia and Gdansk were renamed after the fictional character of Janek Wiśniewski while streets in his hometown of Elblag and Zielona Gora, where he spent his childhood holidays, were renamed after the real person of Zbigniew Godlewski. The story of Wiśniewski was told in the 1981 film Man of Iron and the events are also retold in the 2011 film Czarny czwartek (Black Thursday).

Don’t cry mothers, it wasn’t for naught  There’s a flag with black ribbon over the shipyard  For bread and freedom, and a new Poland   Janek Wiśniewski fell  fell   The body of Janek Wisniewski

Paweł Czarzasty / ECS Archives

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 101

Malbork  HISTORY OF THE CASTLE

MALBROK CASTLE TODAY

 The UNESCO-protected Malbork (Marienburg) (Marienburg) Castle came to prominence in 1309 when the Teutonic Knights made it their military and political headquarters. The largest brick castle in the world, which at its height covered a total of 21 hectares, was the centrepiece in what was once a ring of 120 castles surrounding the Teutonic Knights’territory.

Malbork Castle is one of the country’s most impressive historical sites and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. Ongoing renovation are returning more of the castle to its original look and it is quite easy to spend a whole day here discovering each of the castles, viewing the various permanent and temporary exhibitions and relaxing in the grounds or one of the two on-site restaurants. A visit to the castle can be extremely rewarding but note that it involves a lot of walking and there are a number of narrow staircases which need to be negotiated. In addition to surplus of energy remember to bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes and a bottle of water, particularly on hot summer days.

 The knights’power knights’powerbegan to wane wane with th defeat eat at at theBattleof Grunwald in 1410 and the castle became the property of the Polish crown in 1457 when unpaid knights seized it and sold it on. For the next three hundred years Malbork served as a Royal Residence, and became a stopover point for monarchs making the journey between Gdansk and Warsaw. This ended in 1772 when Poland was partitioned and Malbork fell under Prussian control. The castle was turned into a military barracks and a cotton workshop added to the Grand Masters Palace. For the next three decades old Malbork (now Marienburg again) took a hammering, with cloisters and windows bricked up, gateways enlarged and outhouses dismantled. That the castle survived further attempts at ‘modernization’ was thanks only to a protracted campaign by the citizens of Berlin. Spurred by this public outcry the Prussian state embarked on something of a U-turn, and a huge programme of restoration was undertaken. The results were impressive, and by the early 20th century much of the castle had regained its original look.

Photo Pho to by Pat ryk Ko ryk Kosmi  smi  er  / / Dol lar  lar  Photo  Photo Cl   Cl ub ub

BY CAR

It was not by accident that the strikers of 1980 confronted the authorities not face-on but instead by locking themselves into the Lenin Shipyards. Lessons from unrest in 1970 had been learnt and the leaders of the strikes realised that public demonstrations were likely to be met with the full-force of the State’s security apparatus. This is exactly what had happened in Gdynia in December 1970 when shipyard workers from there (along with workers from Szczecin, Elblag and Gdansk) demonstrated against sudden price rises and food shortages. The authorities, conscious of the potential of a full-out workers’ revolt reacted by sending in armed units of army and militia who opened fire on the protesting workers. Exact numbers of dead and wounded are unclear but it is thought that over 40 people were killed in the wave of protests including one young man who would become known as Janek Wiśniewski.

 The last verse of the Ballad of Janek Wiśniewski gives you an idea of the power of the ballad inspired by this young man from Elblag.

Malbork 

 The small town of Malbo Malbork rk some 60km south of Gdańs Gdańskk on the main railway line between Warsaw and the coast offers visitors not only the world’s biggest brick castle, but a number of other poignant and occasionally bizarre sights and sensations to boot. A delightful mix of medieval architecture, grey communist-era monstrosities and a handful of fascinating churches and monuments, Malbork is on closer inspection more than the sum of its UNESCO-listed fort. An improved range of accommodation possibilities and one or two better than average places to eat and drink make an overnight stay an attractive choice for those whose tourism philosophy extends beyond the indignity of spending a few hectic days hurtling around the country and being herded on and off a tour bus.

JANEK WISNIEWSKI

BY TRAIN  Trains run regularly to Malbork from b oth the Tri-city and Warsaw. With both local and Intercity trains running to Malbork from the Tri-city it is worth spending the extra money to travel via Intercity or Express trains en-route to Warsaw and further south. The journey should take between 40 and 90 minutes depending on which part of the Tri-city you are travelling from. Be warned that Polish train stations carry the bare minimum number of signs informing you of the station you have reached so you should pay attention at stops to make sure you don’t miss yours. For more information see the excellent www.rozklad-pkp.pl. The train station is less than 1km northeast of the town centre which can be reached on foot in less than 10 minutes. Taxis are parked outside, and cost around 10zł.

TAXIS Malbork is a fairly compact town and the main street, Malbork Castle and the other sights worth seeing are all in walking distance of each other. If you decide to take a taxi these are companies that we can recommend.

WHAT WHA T TO SEE Sightseeing in Malbork for many visitors IS the Castle but once you are done with the castle, it is worth giving the town a closer inspection. It reveals a number of other sights that despite being nowhere near as grand are both colourful and interesting. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

But the 20th century wasn’t kind to Malbork. On May 1, 1933 the swastika was raised over the castle, and for the next twelve years it was to become a favourite haunt of highranking Nazis. Plans were drafted to build an amphitheatre in the castle grounds, and it was in the Great Refectory that Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster made a landmark speech in 1939 announcing that the territories on the left bank of the Wisla were to be incorporated into the Reich. Malbork’s grandeur wasn’t lost on the Nazis, and for the next few years its imposing courtyards and halls were used for swearing in ceremonies by the Hitler Youth and League of German Girls. With the tide of war turning steps were taken to protect Malbork, and in 1944 all stained glass was painstakingly removed. Even still, Malbork and its castle were smashed as the Marienburg Task Force and 2nd Russian Strike Force faced off in 1945. Over half the castle was destroyed, and black and white pictures from the day show the castle as little more than a desolate set of ruins. With no hope in sight the retreating Nazis dynamited the bridges spanning the Nogat, and the Siege of Malbork was lifted.  This all left Malbork in bad shape, with the brunt of the damage affecting the east side. Plundered by looters and abandoned by the state - who understandably had the unenvious task of rebuilding what was left of Poland Malbork fell into abject decline. Finally, on January 1,1961, the Malbork Castle Museum was founded and restoration work given the green light. It was a huge effort, but the meticulous restoration work was finally rewarded in 1997 when the castle was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Made up of three distinctly different ensembles known as the High Castle, Middle Castle and Outer Bailey and surrounded by a vast dry moat, the most impressive sights all lie within the High Castle, the Brethren Knights’ original monastery, and the Middle Castle which served as the centre of the Teutonic Knights’ political activity. Among the jaw-droppingly awesome collection of buildings, impossible to miss are the 14th-century Palace of the Grand Masters, the original residence of the so-called Grand Master of the Teutonic Order. The vaulted interiors are marked by columns that fan out like palm trees, supposedly to remind the knights of their Palestinian roots, and it’s inside the main refectory you’ll find one such palm supporting an entire ceiling - a cannonball hole can be spotted on a nearby wall from when Polish soldiers tried to collapse the pillar. They missed by just the narrowest of margins, the result of their vandalism still in evidence. Also to visit is the breathtaking St. Mary’s Church, the Grand Masters’ final resting place and the impressive courtyard in the centre of the Middle Castle. Many rooms are open to the public, including during the summer a wonderful recreation of the Castle’s mill hidden away in a garden in the southwest corner of the High Castle. In contrast to the spartan, simple style of the Grand Masters Chambers the rest of the castle is a trove of treasures, and includes an enormous collection of weaponry as well as an amber exhibition. Other rooms are devoted to the Teutonic life and feature the requisite collection of armour, flags and goblets.  Ticket prices come inclusive of a guide and you can either  join one of the regul arly depart ing groups or p ick up one of the limited numbers of audioguides. Tickets, tours and information are all found in the modern Malbork Castle Museum building set just outside the walls on the south-east side. QG-3, ul. Starościńska 1, tel. (+48) 55 647 09 02, www.zamek.malbork. pl. Castle open 10:00 - 15:00. Note that the church in the High Castle is closed until 2016 for restoration work. Admission 29.50/20.50 zł. Y December 2015 - April 2016 103

Malbork 

Malbork 

BY CAR Malbork can be reached easily in a car thanks to the nearby A1 highway which runs south from Gdansk passing by Malbork on its way. If you are coming from Warsaw it is recommended that you head east out of the city following signs for the A2 autostrada to Lodz and Poznan. Approximately 100km from Warsaw you should turn north onto the A1 towards Gdansk. Whichever way you approach from you should turn off onto route 22 which will bring you into the centre of Malbork in about 15 minutes. The castle will be on your left as you enter the town. Alternatively you can hire a taxi to take you and bring you back. While considerably more expensive than the train, the cost is still not prohibitive to most western visitors especially if there are a few of you. To book a taxi from Gdansk, which will cost you a minimum of 200zł depending on waiting time, call Neptun Taxi Taxi on (+48) 58 511 15 55. 102 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

MALBROK CASTLE TODAY Malbork Castle is one of the country’s most impressive historical sites and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. Ongoing renovation are returning more of the castle to its original look and it is quite easy to spend a whole day here discovering each of the castles, viewing the various permanent and temporary exhibitions and relaxing in the grounds or one of the two on-site restaurants. A visit to the castle can be extremely rewarding but note that it involves a lot of walking and there are a number of narrow staircases which need to be negotiated. In addition to surplus of energy remember to bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes and a bottle of water, particularly on hot summer days.

 The knights’power knights’powerbegan to wane wane with th defeat eat at at theBattleof Grunwald in 1410 and the castle became the property of the Polish crown in 1457 when unpaid knights seized it and sold it on. For the next three hundred years Malbork served as a Royal Residence, and became a stopover point for monarchs making the journey between Gdansk and Warsaw. This ended in 1772 when Poland was partitioned and Malbork fell under Prussian control. The castle was turned into a military barracks and a cotton workshop added to the Grand Masters Palace. For the next three decades old Malbork (now Marienburg again) took a hammering, with cloisters and windows bricked up, gateways enlarged and outhouses dismantled. That the castle survived further attempts at ‘modernization’ was thanks only to a protracted campaign by the citizens of Berlin. Spurred by this public outcry the Prussian state embarked on something of a U-turn, and a huge programme of restoration was undertaken. The results were impressive, and by the early 20th century much of the castle had regained its original look.

Photo Pho to by Pat ryk Ko ryk Kosmi  smi  er  / / Dol lar  lar  Photo  Photo Cl   Cl ub ub

 The small town of Malbo Malbork rk some 60km south of Gdańs Gdańskk on the main railway line between Warsaw and the coast offers visitors not only the world’s biggest brick castle, but a number of other poignant and occasionally bizarre sights and sensations to boot. A delightful mix of medieval architecture, grey communist-era monstrosities and a handful of fascinating churches and monuments, Malbork is on closer inspection more than the sum of its UNESCO-listed fort. An improved range of accommodation possibilities and one or two better than average places to eat and drink make an overnight stay an attractive choice for those whose tourism philosophy extends beyond the indignity of spending a few hectic days hurtling around the country and being herded on and off a tour bus.

HISTORY OF THE CASTLE  The UNESCO-protected Malbork (Marienburg) (Marienburg) Castle came to prominence in 1309 when the Teutonic Knights made it their military and political headquarters. The largest brick castle in the world, which at its height covered a total of 21 hectares, was the centrepiece in what was once a ring of 120 castles surrounding the Teutonic Knights’territory.

BY TRAIN  Trains run regularly to Malbork from b oth the Tri-city and Warsaw. With both local and Intercity trains running to Malbork from the Tri-city it is worth spending the extra money to travel via Intercity or Express trains en-route to Warsaw and further south. The journey should take between 40 and 90 minutes depending on which part of the Tri-city you are travelling from. Be warned that Polish train stations carry the bare minimum number of signs informing you of the station you have reached so you should pay attention at stops to make sure you don’t miss yours. For more information see the excellent www.rozklad-pkp.pl. The train station is less than 1km northeast of the town centre which can be reached on foot in less than 10 minutes. Taxis are parked outside, and cost around 10zł.

TAXIS Malbork is a fairly compact town and the main street, Malbork Castle and the other sights worth seeing are all in walking distance of each other. If you decide to take a taxi these are companies that we can recommend.

WHAT WHA T TO SEE Sightseeing in Malbork for many visitors IS the Castle but once you are done with the castle, it is worth giving the town a closer inspection. It reveals a number of other sights that despite being nowhere near as grand are both colourful and interesting. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

But the 20th century wasn’t kind to Malbork. On May 1, 1933 the swastika was raised over the castle, and for the next twelve years it was to become a favourite haunt of highranking Nazis. Plans were drafted to build an amphitheatre in the castle grounds, and it was in the Great Refectory that Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster made a landmark speech in 1939 announcing that the territories on the left bank of the Wisla were to be incorporated into the Reich. Malbork’s grandeur wasn’t lost on the Nazis, and for the next few years its imposing courtyards and halls were used for swearing in ceremonies by the Hitler Youth and League of German Girls. With the tide of war turning steps were taken to protect Malbork, and in 1944 all stained glass was painstakingly removed. Even still, Malbork and its castle were smashed as the Marienburg Task Force and 2nd Russian Strike Force faced off in 1945. Over half the castle was destroyed, and black and white pictures from the day show the castle as little more than a desolate set of ruins. With no hope in sight the retreating Nazis dynamited the bridges spanning the Nogat, and the Siege of Malbork was lifted.  This all left Malbork in bad shape, with the brunt of the damage affecting the east side. Plundered by looters and abandoned by the state - who understandably had the unenvious task of rebuilding what was left of Poland Malbork fell into abject decline. Finally, on January 1,1961, the Malbork Castle Museum was founded and restoration work given the green light. It was a huge effort, but the meticulous restoration work was finally rewarded in 1997 when the castle was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Malbork  WHAT TO SEE  The first thing you’ll notice ce about the old town in Malbor Malbork, k, which can trace its history back to the XIV century, is that it no longer exists. After spending 3 0 minutes wandering around with a map trying to find it, the fact that you’re in it suddenly, somewhat depressingly, dawns on you. Almost completely destroyed during fierce fighting between the retreating Germans and the Red Army towards the end of WWII, the communist town planners set about demolishing what was left of the old town (usable bricks were shipped off to help re-build the old towns of Gdansk and Warsaw) and then rebuilding the area with gay abandon. They put up large modern tenement blocks where the original medieval buildings had stood leaving the few surviving structures to stand amongst these new blocks as if they had been dropped into the landscape from outer space. Because of its tragic modern histor y there are many towns and cities in Poland whose pre-war beauty was destroyed during WWII to be replaced by functional concrete structures that aged badly. However in all our time writing guides in Poland we have never seen the damage caused by WWII so clearly demonstrated. Particularly poignant are old photographs of the bustling pre-war town centre (which was set around what is now Trakt Jana Pawla II (A-2) which can be seen inside the Old Town Hall (Ratusz Staromieskie) and then to compare them to the deserted streets you’ll find today on what is now an old, but cleaned-up, housing development with communist-era shopping arcade. That said, what little that did survive WWII is worth hunting down.

CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST  The church of St. John the Baptist has occupied this spot since the late XIII century but has taken many forms due to rebuilding after suffering damage in numerous wars. When it was originally built it was the first place of worship outside of the castle walls. This first church was completely destroyed in the Thirteen Year War between the Kingdom of Poland, with her Prussian allies and the Teutonic Order during which Malbork came under Polish rule. A new brick church with wooden belfry was built following the end of the war (between 1467 and 1523) but was destroyed once again at the end of the X VII century. Damaged again in the battle for Malbork in 1945 the church was repaired and given to the Sons of Divine Providence, a Roman Catholic religious order, in 1957. The church contains some artefacts worth seeking out including an early XV century limestone sculpture of St. Elizabeth of  Turin, a Neo-Gothic Neo-Gothic altar and two XIV century century granite fonts. Pick up a leaflet inside the church for a few more points of interest but please do not visit when a service is taking place.QG-4, os. Stare Miasto 22, tel. (+48) 55 273 37 94, www.jan.rel.pl. Open at mass times.

MARY’S GATE Walking south along Trakt Jana Pawła II takes you to the old town’s final gem. The scruffY-looking Brama Mariacka (Mary’s Gate) like Brama Garncarska was originally built in the second half of the XIV century on the instructions of  Teutonic  Teu tonic Grand Master Winrich Winrich von Kniprode as part of a 104 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Made up of three distinctly different ensembles known as the High Castle, Middle Castle and Outer Bailey and surrounded by a vast dry moat, the most impressive sights all lie within the High Castle, the Brethren Knights’ original monastery, and the Middle Castle which served as the centre of the Teutonic Knights’ political activity. Among the jaw-droppingly awesome collection of buildings, impossible to miss are the 14th-century Palace of the Grand Masters, the original residence of the so-called Grand Master of the Teutonic Order. The vaulted interiors are marked by columns that fan out like palm trees, supposedly to remind the knights of their Palestinian roots, and it’s inside the main refectory you’ll find one such palm supporting an entire ceiling - a cannonball hole can be spotted on a nearby wall from when Polish soldiers tried to collapse the pillar. They missed by just the narrowest of margins, the result of their vandalism still in evidence. Also to visit is the breathtaking St. Mary’s Church, the Grand Masters’ final resting place and the impressive courtyard in the centre of the Middle Castle. Many rooms are open to the public, including during the summer a wonderful recreation of the Castle’s mill hidden away in a garden in the southwest corner of the High Castle. In contrast to the spartan, simple style of the Grand Masters Chambers the rest of the castle is a trove of treasures, and includes an enormous collection of weaponry as well as an amber exhibition. Other rooms are devoted to the Teutonic life and feature the requisite collection of armour, flags and goblets.  Ticket prices come inclusive of a guide and you can either  join one of the regul arly depart ing groups or p ick up one of the limited numbers of audioguides. Tickets, tours and information are all found in the modern Malbork Castle Museum building set just outside the walls on the south-east side. QG-3, ul. Starościńska 1, tel. (+48) 55 647 09 02, www.zamek.malbork. pl. Castle open 10:00 - 15:00. Note that the church in the High Castle is closed until 2016 for restoration work. Admission 29.50/20.50 zł. Y December 2015 - April 2016 103

Malbork  new system of defences for the town. During the centuries a moat and later a second line of defensive walls were built to protect the gate while the inside once housed a chapel. In 1838 a fire destroyed the roof which was rebuilt with a new structure added featuring a clock tower. Completely burnt out by fire and riddled with bullet holes at the end of WWII the gate stood desolate until the mid-60s when it was finally rebuilt. An external staircase was added in the 1970s and a cafe operated inside for a time before another fire in the early 1980s caused a great deal of damage inside the building which weakened the structure as well. Today it stands waiting its turn to be repaired and cleaned up and in the meantime plays host to the unusual Baszta pub. QG-4, Al. Rodła.

MONUMENT OF KING KAZIMIERZ IV JAGIELLOŃCZYK  On June 8, 1457 Polish king Kazimierz IV Jagiellonczyk rode into Marienburg (Malbork) Castle after Poland took possession of it from Teutonic mercenaries and took homage from the town burghers. This event marked the beginning of the ‘Polish era’in the town which was to last for over three hundred years up until the First Partition of Poland by Prussia and Russia in 1772. King Kazimierz’s (Casimir in English) reign is seen as the beginning of the Polish Golden Age during which time the Jagiellonian dynasty became one of the leading royal houses in Europe. Kazimierz was the second son of Wladyslaw II Jagiello, the Grand Duke of Lithuania who took Christian baptism and married the Polish Queen Jadwiga so uniting the two nations in an alliance that would deal the first of a series of ultimately fatal blows to the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410. Kazimierz, already Grand Duke of Lithuania, came to the throne of Poland in 1447 at the age of 20 and his 45 years on the throne saw Poland and Lithuania’s position strengthened through Kazimierz’s marriage to Elisabeth of Austria and a series of alliances with other central European dynasties which eventually saw the combined Polish and Lithuanian territories stretch from Estonia to the Black Sea. Kazimierz died in 1492 and is buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel in Krakow.  This 3.5m tall bronze statue was unveiled in 2010 and is intended to remind people that the town has a strong Polish history as well as Prussian/German and Teutonic. QB-2, Pl. Kazimierza Jagiellończyka.

TOURIST INFORMATION MALBORK WELCOME CENTER  The local Tourist Information Centre can be found in a beautiful building in the centre of the town, 10 minutes walk from the train station and a further 10 from the castle. If you’re arriving in the town this should be your first point of call to pick up maps, guides and information. You’ll also find a range of gifts and souvenirs and not least a very friendly and helpful, multi-lingual staff. QH-4, ul. Kościuszki 54, tel. (+48) 55 647 47 47, www.visitmalbork.pl. www.visitmalbork.pl. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

OLD TOWN HALL Standing forlornly on Trakt Jana Pawla II, is the rather splendid but awfully lonely looking Ratusz Staromiejski (Old Town Hall). Its current form dates from 1380 although it has been altered many times over the years following attacks and sieges on the city. It was home to the town’s authorities all the way up to 1929 when they moved to the new town hall found on the other side of the road from Mary’s Gate. The old town hall then became home to the town’s police and it was a place of terror for local Poles and resistance fighters during the war. On the outside walls you’ll find plagues honouring the fighters of the ‘Młody Las’ (Young Forest) who fought a resistance war against the Germans between 1941 and 1945 in the area around the northern Vistula river, Warmia and Masuria, and another honouring activists who campaigned to Polonise Malbork in a plebiscite after the war.  The old town hall stood derelict for a number of years after the war as there were greater priorities at the time and was eventually rebuilt between 1959 and 1961. These days it stands as a small reminder of what this part of town once looked like and the covered arcade at its front is an example of how the walkway that ran along this side of the street would have looked. The Ratusz today houses a Youth Cultural Cultural Centre and you can walk into the ground floor where you will see a collection of photos of a bustling old Malbork which serve to reinforce the rather ghostly atmosphere of the area. QG-4, Stare Miasto.

POTTERS’ GATE At the junction of ul. Pilsudskiego and ul. 17-go Marca is the attractive Brama Garncarska or Potters Gate, which in the past has also gone by the names Holy Spirit Gate or Elblag Gate. Built in the second half of the XIV century as part of the original defensive town walls and gave access to the city to routes from the east. Built of brick with three spans, five floors and a four-sided tiled roof, note the access at the top of the gate for winching supplies. The building served as a youth hostel before the war and was rebuilt in 1955 after suffering damage during WWII. Today it has been restored and they only way to see inside is to go into the jewellers now housed on the ground floor. QG-4, ul. Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego..

seasonal dishes from local produce delicious cakes excellent coffee

THE LATIN SCHOOL BUILDING A brand new building constructed around the ruins of what was once the Latin School. Building first took place here in the late XIV century and though its original purpose is unknown it is thought to have been the home of the Brotherhood of St. George. From the second half of the XVI century a school was here and from 1603 it was called the Latin School. Over the next 250 years the building was extended and modernised until the school finally moved into new premises on what is now ul. 17-go Marca in 1866. It appears that the building was then used as a warehouse before suffering fire in 1899 and destruction in 1945.  The lower walls on the the river river side side have have survived survived since since medieval medieval times and what you see today is home to a Cultural and Educational Centre incorporating a planetarium, museum of crafts and conference centre. QG-4, Stare Miasto. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Przystanek Patrzałkowie café & restaurant Kościuszki 25, Malbork (7 minutes from the castle)

www.patrzalkowie.pl  December 2015 - April 2016 105

Malbork 

Malbork 

WHAT TO SEE  The first thing you’ll notice ce about the old town in Malbor Malbork, k, which can trace its history back to the XIV century, is that it no longer exists. After spending 3 0 minutes wandering around with a map trying to find it, the fact that you’re in it suddenly, somewhat depressingly, dawns on you. Almost completely destroyed during fierce fighting between the retreating Germans and the Red Army towards the end of WWII, the communist town planners set about demolishing what was left of the old town (usable bricks were shipped off to help re-build the old towns of Gdansk and Warsaw) and then rebuilding the area with gay abandon. They put up large modern tenement blocks where the original medieval buildings had stood leaving the few surviving structures to stand amongst these new blocks as if they had been dropped into the landscape from outer space. Because of its tragic modern histor y there are many towns and cities in Poland whose pre-war beauty was destroyed during WWII to be replaced by functional concrete structures that aged badly. However in all our time writing guides in Poland we have never seen the damage caused by WWII so clearly demonstrated. Particularly poignant are old photographs of the bustling pre-war town centre (which was set around what is now Trakt Jana Pawla II (A-2) which can be seen inside the Old Town Hall (Ratusz Staromieskie) and then to compare them to the deserted streets you’ll find today on what is now an old, but cleaned-up, housing development with communist-era shopping arcade. That said, what little that did survive WWII is worth hunting down.

CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST  The church of St. John the Baptist has occupied this spot since the late XIII century but has taken many forms due to rebuilding after suffering damage in numerous wars. When it was originally built it was the first place of worship outside of the castle walls. This first church was completely destroyed in the Thirteen Year War between the Kingdom of Poland, with her Prussian allies and the Teutonic Order during which Malbork came under Polish rule. A new brick church with wooden belfry was built following the end of the war (between 1467 and 1523) but was destroyed once again at the end of the X VII century. Damaged again in the battle for Malbork in 1945 the church was repaired and given to the Sons of Divine Providence, a Roman Catholic religious order, in 1957. The church contains some artefacts worth seeking out including an early XV century limestone sculpture of St. Elizabeth of  Turin, a Neo-Gothic Neo-Gothic altar and two XIV century century granite fonts. Pick up a leaflet inside the church for a few more points of interest but please do not visit when a service is taking place.QG-4, os. Stare Miasto 22, tel. (+48) 55 273 37 94, www.jan.rel.pl. Open at mass times.

MARY’S GATE Walking south along Trakt Jana Pawła II takes you to the old town’s final gem. The scruffY-looking Brama Mariacka (Mary’s Gate) like Brama Garncarska was originally built in the second half of the XIV century on the instructions of  Teutonic  Teu tonic Grand Master Winrich Winrich von Kniprode as part of a

new system of defences for the town. During the centuries a moat and later a second line of defensive walls were built to protect the gate while the inside once housed a chapel. In 1838 a fire destroyed the roof which was rebuilt with a new structure added featuring a clock tower. Completely burnt out by fire and riddled with bullet holes at the end of WWII the gate stood desolate until the mid-60s when it was finally rebuilt. An external staircase was added in the 1970s and a cafe operated inside for a time before another fire in the early 1980s caused a great deal of damage inside the building which weakened the structure as well. Today it stands waiting its turn to be repaired and cleaned up and in the meantime plays host to the unusual Baszta pub. QG-4, Al. Rodła.

MONUMENT OF KING KAZIMIERZ IV JAGIELLOŃCZYK  On June 8, 1457 Polish king Kazimierz IV Jagiellonczyk rode into Marienburg (Malbork) Castle after Poland took possession of it from Teutonic mercenaries and took homage from the town burghers. This event marked the beginning of the ‘Polish era’in the town which was to last for over three hundred years up until the First Partition of Poland by Prussia and Russia in 1772. King Kazimierz’s (Casimir in English) reign is seen as the beginning of the Polish Golden Age during which time the Jagiellonian dynasty became one of the leading royal houses in Europe. Kazimierz was the second son of Wladyslaw II Jagiello, the Grand Duke of Lithuania who took Christian baptism and married the Polish Queen Jadwiga so uniting the two nations in an alliance that would deal the first of a series of ultimately fatal blows to the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410. Kazimierz, already Grand Duke of Lithuania, came to the throne of Poland in 1447 at the age of 20 and his 45 years on the throne saw Poland and Lithuania’s position strengthened through Kazimierz’s marriage to Elisabeth of Austria and a series of alliances with other central European dynasties which eventually saw the combined Polish and Lithuanian territories stretch from Estonia to the Black Sea. Kazimierz died in 1492 and is buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel in Krakow.  This 3.5m tall bronze statue was unveiled in 2010 and is intended to remind people that the town has a strong Polish history as well as Prussian/German and Teutonic. QB-2, Pl. Kazimierza Jagiellończyka.

TOURIST INFORMATION MALBORK WELCOME CENTER  The local Tourist Information Centre can be found in a beautiful building in the centre of the town, 10 minutes walk from the train station and a further 10 from the castle. If you’re arriving in the town this should be your first point of call to pick up maps, guides and information. You’ll also find a range of gifts and souvenirs and not least a very friendly and helpful, multi-lingual staff. QH-4, ul. Kościuszki 54, tel. (+48) 55 647 47 47, www.visitmalbork.pl. www.visitmalbork.pl. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

104 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

OLD TOWN HALL Standing forlornly on Trakt Jana Pawla II, is the rather splendid but awfully lonely looking Ratusz Staromiejski (Old Town Hall). Its current form dates from 1380 although it has been altered many times over the years following attacks and sieges on the city. It was home to the town’s authorities all the way up to 1929 when they moved to the new town hall found on the other side of the road from Mary’s Gate. The old town hall then became home to the town’s police and it was a place of terror for local Poles and resistance fighters during the war. On the outside walls you’ll find plagues honouring the fighters of the ‘Młody Las’ (Young Forest) who fought a resistance war against the Germans between 1941 and 1945 in the area around the northern Vistula river, Warmia and Masuria, and another honouring activists who campaigned to Polonise Malbork in a plebiscite after the war.  The old town hall stood derelict for a number of years after the war as there were greater priorities at the time and was eventually rebuilt between 1959 and 1961. These days it stands as a small reminder of what this part of town once looked like and the covered arcade at its front is an example of how the walkway that ran along this side of the street would have looked. The Ratusz today houses a Youth Cultural Cultural Centre and you can walk into the ground floor where you will see a collection of photos of a bustling old Malbork which serve to reinforce the rather ghostly atmosphere of the area. QG-4, Stare Miasto.

POTTERS’ GATE At the junction of ul. Pilsudskiego and ul. 17-go Marca is the attractive Brama Garncarska or Potters Gate, which in the past has also gone by the names Holy Spirit Gate or Elblag Gate. Built in the second half of the XIV century as part of the original defensive town walls and gave access to the city to routes from the east. Built of brick with three spans, five floors and a four-sided tiled roof, note the access at the top of the gate for winching supplies. The building served as a youth hostel before the war and was rebuilt in 1955 after suffering damage during WWII. Today it has been restored and they only way to see inside is to go into the jewellers now housed on the ground floor. QG-4, ul. Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego..

seasonal dishes from local produce delicious cakes excellent coffee

THE LATIN SCHOOL BUILDING A brand new building constructed around the ruins of what was once the Latin School. Building first took place here in the late XIV century and though its original purpose is unknown it is thought to have been the home of the Brotherhood of St. George. From the second half of the XVI century a school was here and from 1603 it was called the Latin School. Over the next 250 years the building was extended and modernised until the school finally moved into new premises on what is now ul. 17-go Marca in 1866. It appears that the building was then used as a warehouse before suffering fire in 1899 and destruction in 1945.  The lower walls on the the river river side side have have survived survived since since medieval medieval times and what you see today is home to a Cultural and Educational Centre incorporating a planetarium, museum of crafts and conference centre. QG-4, Stare Miasto.

Przystanek Patrzałkowie café & restaurant Kościuszki 25, Malbork (7 minutes from the castle)

www.patrzalkowie.pl  December 2015 - April 2016 105

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Leisure

Leisure GO-CARTING KART CENTER If you like karting, you’ll love Kart Center. A high-speed 520 metre, outdoor track full of twists, turns, chicanes and reputedly the only bridge on a Polish go-kart circuit. You race the clock, not each other, and you will be presented with a set of lap times after your 8-minute series of laps with which you can retreat with to the onsite bar to compare with your mates. Special functions catered for, all equipment available to hire and late night racing have made this a very popular venue for budding Kubica’s. Open subject to weather. QL-5, ul. 3 Maja 69c, Sopot, tel. (+48) 692 27 79 78, www.kartcenter.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Race sessions last approx. 8 mins. 30-35zł. Y

PITSTOP ELECTRIC GO�CARTS

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BOWLING & BILLIARDS GREEN CLUB We’ll be honest - we would once have been a little wary of travelling out to Zaspa for a night out let alone recommending a visitor do the same. That’s not the case anymore and if pool, called bilard  in  in Polish, is your game this is the place to spend an evening. Featuring 16 9-foot pool tables and 2 12-foot snooker tables you can risk not booking ahead despite its popularity. A well-stocked bar, bar-food,friendly staff and clientele and lots of TV screens and seating mean this is a great place for a night out watching for watching or playing sport (or both as we typically do). Find it next to the GdanskZaspa railway station. QE-3, ul. Hynka 69, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 82 93, www.greenclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30. Tables cost 18zł all week to rent.

MK BOWLING Bar, bowling and billiards in the largest bowling alley in the city. Found inside the Manhattan shopping mall in GdanskWrzeszcz.QAl. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 71 37, www.mkbowling.pl/startgdansk. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Prices range from 39-79zł per hour, per lane. Y

ESCAPE ROOMS ESCAPEROOMS If there are between 2 and 5 of you then give this a thought. You basically get locked in a room for up to 60 minutes during which time you have to try to complete tasks and decode clues to escape. It’s great fun for those 106 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

who prefer a cerebral challenge to a physical one although one colleague said it might not be best suited to those who suffer from claustrophobia. There are six different rooms from which you can choose to escape with the Room of the Lost Child probably the eeriest. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 739 09 48 52, www.escaperooms.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Prices start from 39zł per person (Fri-Sun 49zł) for a minimum of two people and decrease for more people.

LET ME OUT  The fashion for Escape Rooms has reached the Tri-city and Let Me Out have opened up three rooms close to the centre. Perfect for a rainy day, the idea is that you (and up to three other people) are locked into a room. You have 45 minutes to work out how to get out using clues contained in the room. It’s great fun and the rooms have different themes and therefore different puzzles to solve. QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 28, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 730 94 92 23, www. letmeout.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 99zł (or €25) for groups of 2-4 people. N

WALKOUT  There are four different rooms which you can chose to be locked in. You then have an hour to figure out how to get out using the various objects lying around the themed room. Excellent fun for small groups o n a rainy day. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 15/9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 93 16 13, www.walkout.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 99-129zł per group of 2-4 people, depending on the room chosen and the day of the week. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 The Pit-Stop team have 2 tracks on-site. The outdoor operates with petrol powered carts (closed in winter), while this indoor one uses electric ones. Don’t worry that you might be coasting around on a glorified vacuum cleaner though - these things are brand new and can shift - IF you can convince the Track Marshall to turn his handset control up. He has control over which of the three speeds your cart is set to and typically will check you are able to handle the machine before remotely changing the settings. Once you get it into third gear the cart really moves and the track is challenging enough to make it good fun. You will need to register for free first before you can use the carts but that is a simple process for insurance purposes and is done personally on a computer which has instructions in English. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 733 87 08 70, www.pitstop-gdansk.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. Prices start from 30zł for 8 minutes (Fri-Sun 35zł).

ICE SKATING CITY SKATING RINK  Located in a huge bubble just outside the Old Town in the shadow of that huge cross. It’s 11/7zł for an hour with sessions starting every 90 minutes, and if you’ve made the mistake of travelling without your skates - silly you - then you can rent some out for 8zl. Family tickets (2 adults & 2 kids), 29zł. QI-3, Plac Zebrań Ludowych, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 69 64, www.scena www.scenamuzyczna muzyczna.. pl. Open 14:30 - 20:30, Wed 14:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:30.

GDYNIA ICE RINK  An ice-rink in the centre of Gdynia with some really odd opening hours. Note the wearing of gloves is compulsory and that the rink has temporary closures to maintain the ice.QN-2, ul. Bema 33, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 83 72, www.mdk.gdynia.pl. Open 18:00 - 20:30, Tue, Fri 14:00 - 20:20, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Skate rental 5zł/50 mins. Helmet 1zł. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

SOPOT PIER SKATING RINK  Open during the winter subject to the weather, this 35 x 18m outdoor skating rink can hold up to 100 people and is located right at the foot of Sopot pier. Equipment can be hired on-site for a few euros. QM-4, by entrance to Sopot Pier, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 00 02. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. Admission for each 1hr session 5zł (regardless whether you use the whole hour or only 5 minutes at the end), Sat and Sun 8zł. Skate rental 6zł. Helmet 5zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLOKFIT  To des crib e thi s as a co mple x of climb ing w alls woul d be to seriously undersell it. This is what is described to us as ‘Bouldering’. You’ll need to be in shape to do it as it involves clambering up overhanging artificial rock faces using one of the 7,000+ footholds spread over 1,000m2. We’ll admit we haven’t got the physique for it but if you like a fitness challenge this is definitely for you. Q E-4, ul. Słowackiego 1 a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 728 49 55, www.blokfit.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 32zł.

CENTRUM HEWELIANUM Set inside the guts of the Napoleonic-era Fort Grodzisko, set into the hill overlooking the city, the Centrum Hewelianum is a science park/museum built to honour Johannes Hevelius (J an Heweliusz in Polish), the famed astronomer born in this city in 1611. The exhibition consists of two parts, the first of which is called Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk (Time machine - the Human and the Bullet). Set inside the brick tunnels of this 19th century fortress, the exhibition recreates what the fort would have looked like when it was first built, its atmospheric corridors filled with cannons, weaponry and lifelike mannequins in period uniform. The second part of the exhibition is titled ‘Z energią’ (With Energy). This does a good job of making sense of science in a fun manner that’s accessible to all ages. Featuring plenty of machines, computers and interactive gadgets this is one of those museums that encourages visitors to get hands on. Keep an eye out for a WWII anti-aircraft battery located in the grounds. You’ll also find a set of exhibits under the titles ‘Around the World’; ‘Puzzle’; ‘Puzzle’; ‘Time Machine - Fun with History’ and ‘Pan Kleks’ Laboratory’ which is based on the character of a popular Polish children’s book. Q A-3, ul. Gradowa 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 33 52, www.hewelianum.pl. Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk exhibition: Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From April open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. All other parts of the exhibition: Open 08:30 - 15:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk exhibition: Admission free. All other parts of the exhibition: Admission 9-13/7-9zł, family ticket 23-30zł. Y December 2015 - April 2016 107

Leisure

Leisure SOPOT PIER SKATING RINK 

GO-CARTING KART CENTER If you like karting, you’ll love Kart Center. A high-speed 520 metre, outdoor track full of twists, turns, chicanes and reputedly the only bridge on a Polish go-kart circuit. You race the clock, not each other, and you will be presented with a set of lap times after your 8-minute series of laps with which you can retreat with to the onsite bar to compare with your mates. Special functions catered for, all equipment available to hire and late night racing have made this a very popular venue for budding Kubica’s. Open subject to weather. QL-5, ul. 3 Maja 69c, Sopot, tel. (+48) 692 27 79 78, www.kartcenter.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Race sessions last approx. 8 mins. 30-35zł. Y

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BOWLING & BILLIARDS GREEN CLUB We’ll be honest - we would once have been a little wary of travelling out to Zaspa for a night out let alone recommending a visitor do the same. That’s not the case anymore and if pool, called bilard  in  in Polish, is your game this is the place to spend an evening. Featuring 16 9-foot pool tables and 2 12-foot snooker tables you can risk not booking ahead despite its popularity. A well-stocked bar, bar-food,friendly staff and clientele and lots of TV screens and seating mean this is a great place for a night out watching for watching or playing sport (or both as we typically do). Find it next to the GdanskZaspa railway station. QE-3, ul. Hynka 69, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 82 93, www.greenclub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30. Tables cost 18zł all week to rent.

MK BOWLING Bar, bowling and billiards in the largest bowling alley in the city. Found inside the Manhattan shopping mall in GdanskWrzeszcz.QAl. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 767 71 37, www.mkbowling.pl/startgdansk. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. Prices range from 39-79zł per hour, per lane. Y

ESCAPE ROOMS ESCAPEROOMS If there are between 2 and 5 of you then give this a thought. You basically get locked in a room for up to 60 minutes during which time you have to try to complete tasks and decode clues to escape. It’s great fun for those

who prefer a cerebral challenge to a physical one although one colleague said it might not be best suited to those who suffer from claustrophobia. There are six different rooms from which you can choose to escape with the Room of the Lost Child probably the eeriest. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 739 09 48 52, www.escaperooms.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Prices start from 39zł per person (Fri-Sun 49zł) for a minimum of two people and decrease for more people.

LET ME OUT  The fashion for Escape Rooms has reached the Tri-city and Let Me Out have opened up three rooms close to the centre. Perfect for a rainy day, the idea is that you (and up to three other people) are locked into a room. You have 45 minutes to work out how to get out using clues contained in the room. It’s great fun and the rooms have different themes and therefore different puzzles to solve. QD-5, ul. Spichrzowa 28, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 730 94 92 23, www. letmeout.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 99zł (or €25) for groups of 2-4 people. N

WALKOUT  There are four different rooms which you can chose to be locked in. You then have an hour to figure out how to get out using the various objects lying around the themed room. Excellent fun for small groups o n a rainy day. QO-1, Skwer Kościuszki 15/9, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 600 93 16 13, www.walkout.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 99-129zł per group of 2-4 people, depending on the room chosen and the day of the week.

106 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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 The Pit-Stop team have 2 tracks on-site. The outdoor operates with petrol powered carts (closed in winter), while this indoor one uses electric ones. Don’t worry that you might be coasting around on a glorified vacuum cleaner though - these things are brand new and can shift - IF you can convince the Track Marshall to turn his handset control up. He has control over which of the three speeds your cart is set to and typically will check you are able to handle the machine before remotely changing the settings. Once you get it into third gear the cart really moves and the track is challenging enough to make it good fun. You will need to register for free first before you can use the carts but that is a simple process for insurance purposes and is done personally on a computer which has instructions in English. Qul. Pokoleń Lechii Gdańsk 1, Gdańsk (Letnica), tel. (+48) 733 87 08 70, www.pitstop-gdansk.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. Prices start from 30zł for 8 minutes (Fri-Sun 35zł).

ICE SKATING CITY SKATING RINK  Located in a huge bubble just outside the Old Town in the shadow of that huge cross. It’s 11/7zł for an hour with sessions starting every 90 minutes, and if you’ve made the mistake of travelling without your skates - silly you - then you can rent some out for 8zl. Family tickets (2 adults & 2 kids), 29zł. QI-3, Plac Zebrań Ludowych, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 69 64, www.scena www.scenamuzyczna muzyczna.. pl. Open 14:30 - 20:30, Wed 14:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:30.

GDYNIA ICE RINK  An ice-rink in the centre of Gdynia with some really odd opening hours. Note the wearing of gloves is compulsory and that the rink has temporary closures to maintain the ice.QN-2, ul. Bema 33, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 622 83 72, www.mdk.gdynia.pl. Open 18:00 - 20:30, Tue, Fri 14:00 - 20:20, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Skate rental 5zł/50 mins. Helmet 1zł.

Open during the winter subject to the weather, this 35 x 18m outdoor skating rink can hold up to 100 people and is located right at the foot of Sopot pier. Equipment can be hired on-site for a few euros. QM-4, by entrance to Sopot Pier, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 00 02. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. Admission for each 1hr session 5zł (regardless whether you use the whole hour or only 5 minutes at the end), Sat and Sun 8zł. Skate rental 6zł. Helmet 5zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLOKFIT  To des crib e thi s as a co mple x of climb ing w alls woul d be to seriously undersell it. This is what is described to us as ‘Bouldering’. You’ll need to be in shape to do it as it involves clambering up overhanging artificial rock faces using one of the 7,000+ footholds spread over 1,000m2. We’ll admit we haven’t got the physique for it but if you like a fitness challenge this is definitely for you. Q E-4, ul. Słowackiego 1 a, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 728 49 55, www.blokfit.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 32zł.

CENTRUM HEWELIANUM Set inside the guts of the Napoleonic-era Fort Grodzisko, set into the hill overlooking the city, the Centrum Hewelianum is a science park/museum built to honour Johannes Hevelius (J an Heweliusz in Polish), the famed astronomer born in this city in 1611. The exhibition consists of two parts, the first of which is called Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk (Time machine - the Human and the Bullet). Set inside the brick tunnels of this 19th century fortress, the exhibition recreates what the fort would have looked like when it was first built, its atmospheric corridors filled with cannons, weaponry and lifelike mannequins in period uniform. The second part of the exhibition is titled ‘Z energią’ (With Energy). This does a good job of making sense of science in a fun manner that’s accessible to all ages. Featuring plenty of machines, computers and interactive gadgets this is one of those museums that encourages visitors to get hands on. Keep an eye out for a WWII anti-aircraft battery located in the grounds. You’ll also find a set of exhibits under the titles ‘Around the World’; ‘Puzzle’; ‘Puzzle’; ‘Time Machine - Fun with History’ and ‘Pan Kleks’ Laboratory’ which is based on the character of a popular Polish children’s book. Q A-3, ul. Gradowa 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 742 33 52, www.hewelianum.pl. Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk exhibition: Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From April open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. All other parts of the exhibition: Open 08:30 - 15:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Wehikuł Czasu - Człowiek i Pocisk exhibition: Admission free. All other parts of the exhibition: Admission 9-13/7-9zł, family ticket 23-30zł. Y December 2015 - April 2016 107

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Modern scientific and educational space Innovative and creative place Education through fun Exploration and integration Scientific projects Familyworkshops

The most relaxing place in Gdańsk

Massage

Nails studio

Cosmetic

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ENERGY   z  a  s  z

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EXPERYMENT Science Centre in Gdynia

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Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, 81-451 Gdynia  Tel. +48 +48 58 698 21 37

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GDYNIA AQUARIUM A perfect place to visit on days when the weather forces you inside, the Gdynia Aquarium is stuffed with over 1,500 animals spread over 68 different exhibits, and pint-sized guests will delight in seeing every one. Attractions like the octupus and the dwarf crocodile, keep the exhibits fresh, and 108 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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children will beg to adopt a frisky Chinese softshell turtle of their own. Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, like Australian spotted jellyfish and Amazon-dwelling giant arapaima, but also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through the decades. The third floor Baltic Room is devoted to understanding the sea literally right outside the Aquarium’s windows, but a history of the sea will take a backseat to the giant 44 kg cod - the largest creature ever caught in the Baltic - dangling over your head. There’s also something called ‘Akwarium Akwarium pod lupą’ which literally means ‘Aquarium under the microscope’ and which allows you to examine very small fish swimming through magnified glass. English placards are spotty at best, so parents be prepared to make up origins for the colourful tomato clownfish and the pancake-like moonfish. A large open-air deck offers the idea place to take in aquatic views and have a snack if the weather permits. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia.pl . Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From March open 10:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 24/16zł. Children under 4 free admission. Family tickets available with children up to 18 years of age 56zł to 72zł. Audioguides available for 2zł or you can download a version to your iPhone. U

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An excellent addition to the entertainment options in Gdynia particularly if you have younger children in tow. The Experyment Science Centre has moved into a brand new glass building and forms the showpiece of the Pomeranian Science and Technology Park, one of the city’s proudest investments. The number and choice of interactive displays or ‘experiments’has been markedly improved and are classified into one of four categories - Hydroworld, Operation-Human,  The Tree Tree of Life and Invisible Forces. Forces. You are are encouraged to discover the world around you and how it works by pushing, pulling, jumping and experiencing rather than simply looking. You’ll learn how different phenomenon in our everyday lives work and thanks to the English translations you as a foreign guest can gain a full understanding of each exhibit. Children will love it and though all set inside one large room, the number of experiments and the sheer enjoyment of it will keep them busy for hours. Our favourite - probably trying to outrun a lion on a treadmill. QN-4, Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 698 21 37, www. experyment.gdynia.pl . Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/12zł. Y

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JUMPCITY A lot of fun for the kids. An old industrial unit in the port area has been cleaned up and dozens of industrial strength trampolines have been installed. They whole area combined must be close to the size of a football field. There are different areas, each safely netted off from the others and most importantly the ground, so you can throw yourself into the fun fully without fear of flying off. Perfect for rainy day and kids’ parties you buy tickets for set time periods and away you go. Qul. Tadeusza Wendy 7/9, Gdynia (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 58 380 07 70, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 30 mins 25zł/20zł, 60 mins 30zł/25zł, 90 mins 40zł/35zł, 120 mins 50zł/45zł.

LOOPY’S WORLD A Swedish-born chain of entertainment centres aimed specifically at kids aged 12 and under. This place is as mad as they come, with features including electric cars, mini-basketball, penalty shootouts, slides, trampolines and even a train. The new face of playgrounds, and the sort of place that has you wishing you were a nipper. A newly added ‘Laser Chamber’ and something called an ‘Extreme Platform’ which involves wearing special glasses and entering a virtual world have got the kids begging to visit again. Q Al. Grunwaldzka 229, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 347 73 10, www.loopys.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Y facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Gdańsk, ul. Elżbietańska 9/10 • 9/10 • tel. +48 58 682 06 63 ( in church building of St. Joseph) Gdańsk, Baltic Gallery + 1 • 1  • tel. +48 58 346 00 08 Gdańsk, CH Morena, Carrefour • Carrefour • tel. +48 58 301 50 88 Gdynia, CH Riviera • Riviera • tel. +48 58 779 07 07

www.jandre.pl

[email protected]

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS GDAŃSK ZOO One of Poland‘s best zoos, set in the forests of Oliwa and at a fraction of the price of visiting a western zoo. On show are a host of wild animals with the kids‘ favourites being the lions, elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraffes. On a pleasant day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk and there are additional attractions such as staggered feeding times. Bus N°179 runs from the Oliwa Pętla stop all the way to the front gate. Qul. Karwieńska 3, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 17 51, www.zoo.gd.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. From April open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y

RIVER CRUISES CZARNA PERŁA A mock pirate ship that during the colder months continues to sail up to the Motlawa at weekends to the Westerplatte peninsula where WWII began. The ship sails at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00, but note that only the 11:00 sailing drops people off. The others sail up and back again without stopping.  There is a single ngle return sailing leaving leaving Westerplatte Westerplatte at 13:35. 13:35. During the rest of the week the ship is docked close to the Green Gate and acts as a restaurant. QC-5,Długie Pobrzeże Pobrzeże,, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 519 14 02 01, www.perlalew.pl. Tickets 30/20zł one-way or 40/25zł return. Y December 2015 - April 2016 109

Leisure

Leisure

FULL OF POSITIVE













Modern scientific and educational space Innovative and creative place Education through fun Exploration and integration Scientific projects Familyworkshops

The most relaxing place in Gdańsk

Massage

Nails studio

Cosmetic

Hairdresser

ENERGY   z  a  s  z

                       a     j                     a                      M                     3         M

EXPERYMENT Science Centre in Gdynia

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Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, 81-451 Gdynia  Tel. +48 +48 58 698 21 37

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GDYNIA AQUARIUM

children will beg to adopt a frisky Chinese softshell turtle of their own. Exhibits cover marine life from across the globe, like Australian spotted jellyfish and Amazon-dwelling giant arapaima, but also delve into the evolution of submersible technology through the decades. The third floor Baltic Room is devoted to understanding the sea literally right outside the Aquarium’s windows, but a history of the sea will take a backseat to the giant 44 kg cod - the largest creature ever caught in the Baltic - dangling over your head. There’s also something called ‘Akwarium Akwarium pod lupą’ which literally means ‘Aquarium under the microscope’ and which allows you to examine very small fish swimming through magnified glass. English placards are spotty at best, so parents be prepared to make up origins for the colourful tomato clownfish and the pancake-like moonfish. A large open-air deck offers the idea place to take in aquatic views and have a snack if the weather permits. QO-1, Al. Jana Pawła II 1, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 732 66 01, www.akwarium.gdynia.pl . Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From March open 10:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 24/16zł. Children under 4 free admission. Family tickets available with children up to 18 years of age 56zł to 72zł. Audioguides available for 2zł or you can download a version to your iPhone. U

A perfect place to visit on days when the weather forces you inside, the Gdynia Aquarium is stuffed with over 1,500 animals spread over 68 different exhibits, and pint-sized guests will delight in seeing every one. Attractions like the octupus and the dwarf crocodile, keep the exhibits fresh, and

vine.co/inyourpocket

108 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

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CENTRUM NAUKI EXPERYMENT

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An excellent addition to the entertainment options in Gdynia particularly if you have younger children in tow. The Experyment Science Centre has moved into a brand new glass building and forms the showpiece of the Pomeranian Science and Technology Park, one of the city’s proudest investments. The number and choice of interactive displays or ‘experiments’has been markedly improved and are classified into one of four categories - Hydroworld, Operation-Human,  The Tree Tree of Life and Invisible Forces. Forces. You are are encouraged to discover the world around you and how it works by pushing, pulling, jumping and experiencing rather than simply looking. You’ll learn how different phenomenon in our everyday lives work and thanks to the English translations you as a foreign guest can gain a full understanding of each exhibit. Children will love it and though all set inside one large room, the number of experiments and the sheer enjoyment of it will keep them busy for hours. Our favourite - probably trying to outrun a lion on a treadmill. QN-4, Al. Zwycięstwa 96/98, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 698 21 37, www. experyment.gdynia.pl . Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/12zł. Y

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JUMPCITY A lot of fun for the kids. An old industrial unit in the port area has been cleaned up and dozens of industrial strength trampolines have been installed. They whole area combined must be close to the size of a football field. There are different areas, each safely netted off from the others and most importantly the ground, so you can throw yourself into the fun fully without fear of flying off. Perfect for rainy day and kids’ parties you buy tickets for set time periods and away you go. Qul. Tadeusza Wendy 7/9, Gdynia (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 58 380 07 70, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 30 mins 25zł/20zł, 60 mins 30zł/25zł, 90 mins 40zł/35zł, 120 mins 50zł/45zł.

LOOPY’S WORLD A Swedish-born chain of entertainment centres aimed specifically at kids aged 12 and under. This place is as mad as they come, with features including electric cars, mini-basketball, penalty shootouts, slides, trampolines and even a train. The new face of playgrounds, and the sort of place that has you wishing you were a nipper. A newly added ‘Laser Chamber’ and something called an ‘Extreme Platform’ which involves wearing special glasses and entering a virtual world have got the kids begging to visit again. Q Al. Grunwaldzka 229, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 347 73 10, www.loopys.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Y facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Leisure

Gdańsk, ul. Elżbietańska 9/10 • 9/10 • tel. +48 58 682 06 63 ( in church building of St. Joseph) Gdańsk, Baltic Gallery + 1 • 1  • tel. +48 58 346 00 08 Gdańsk, CH Morena, Carrefour • Carrefour • tel. +48 58 301 50 88 Gdynia, CH Riviera • Riviera • tel. +48 58 779 07 07

www.jandre.pl

[email protected]

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS GDAŃSK ZOO One of Poland‘s best zoos, set in the forests of Oliwa and at a fraction of the price of visiting a western zoo. On show are a host of wild animals with the kids‘ favourites being the lions, elephants, hippos, chimpanzees and giraffes. On a pleasant day it is quite possible to spend most of the day here as the park makes for a pleasant and quite exhausting walk and there are additional attractions such as staggered feeding times. Bus N°179 runs from the Oliwa Pętla stop all the way to the front gate. Qul. Karwieńska 3, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 552 17 51, www.zoo.gd.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. From April open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Y

RIVER CRUISES CZARNA PERŁA A mock pirate ship that during the colder months continues to sail up to the Motlawa at weekends to the Westerplatte peninsula where WWII began. The ship sails at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00, but note that only the 11:00 sailing drops people off. The others sail up and back again without stopping.  There is a single ngle return sailing leaving leaving Westerplatte Westerplatte at 13:35. 13:35. During the rest of the week the ship is docked close to the Green Gate and acts as a restaurant. QC-5,Długie Pobrzeże Pobrzeże,, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 519 14 02 01, www.perlalew.pl. Tickets 30/20zł one-way or 40/25zł return. Y December 2015 - April 2016 109

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Located in the plush Haffner Hotel a range of spa and beauty treatments are available for guests and non-guests. Included in their offer are facials at 100zł, massages at 50zł as well as a range of treatments including Babor, Sensai, Bioline, Alessandro, Filorga and Mesoestetic with prices starting from 150zł. Haffner also has a pool, weight room and sauna available. QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaffner.pl. www.hotelhaffner.pl. Swimming pool open 07:00 - 22:00. Treatments 08:00 - 22:00 by prior reservation.

JACQUES ANDRÉ

r an an d  p  

SOFITEL SOF ITEL WE WARMLY INVITE YOU TO GRAND SPA, WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY MAGNIFIQUE TREATMENTS BASED ON WELLNESS PHILOSOPHY COMBINED WITH WORLD’S TRADITIONS AND SKILL OF THE LATEST FRENCH COSMETOLOGY REPRESENTED BY CINQ MONDES AND VALMONT. JOIN RELAXING JOURNEY FOR YOUR BODY, MIND AND SOUL IN GRAND SPA! TO TAKE AN ADVANTAGE OF THE SAUNA, HAMMAM AND SWIMMING POOL. DISCOVER ALL OUR MAGNIFIQUE ADDRESSES IN OVER 40 COUNTRIES ON   WWW.SOFITEL.COM

SWIMMING AQUAPARK 

SLEIGH RIDES KOLANO STABLES  Two hor ses p ull o ne big carriage through the s hadowy Kashubian woods. Sausages, hot drinks and a bonfire are the bonus, as well as the opportunity to see the world’s longest wooden plank in Szymbark (really). Nighttime rides are also available with torches. Organisers speak English and German. Price per person is 20zł for adults, 15zł for children. Snow necessary of course. QKolano 74, Wieżyca, tel. (+48) 58 684 38 93, www. stadninakolano.pl.

TABUN Found just off the main Gdańsk-Sopot-Gdynia road (nearest train station Sopot Kamienny Potok) the complex consists of a three-lane, 25m long pool, a recreational swimming pool featuring cascades and a water grotto and a pool specially designed for children featuring slides, geysers and water cannons. A seasonal outdoor pool with slides and climbing frames is also open during the summer. QM-2, ul. Zamkowa Góra 3-5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 85 23, www.aquaparksopot.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, AquaSPA Open Mon-Fri 11:00 - 22:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Pool tickets: Mon - Fri 16zł/1 hr, 36zł /3 hrs, all day 46zł; Sat, Sun 21/16zł/ 1hr, 42/37zł /3 hrs and 50/47zł all day. Pool + SPA: 36zł/1 hr, 65zł/3 hrs, 80zł all day. SPA: Mon - Fri 11:00 - 14:00 20zł/1 hr, 35zł all day. day. At other times 28zł /1 hr, 45zł/3hrs and 50zł all day. Y 110 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Horse-drawn sleigh rides when there’s snow to sleigh on.Qul. Konna 29, Otomin (7km from the centre of Gdańsk), tel. (+48) 58 303 97 10, www.tabun.kuznia.net.

SPA & BEAUTY GRAND SPA Find a wide range of Sopo t spa treatments in the luxurious surroundings of Sopot’s signature Grand Hotel, overlooking the gardens and beach. Also available are a hammam, sauna, gym and swimming pool. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 85, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com. Swimming pool and fitness centre open 07:00 - 22:00. SPA open 09:00 - 22:00. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

A complete and beauty spa service under one roof - well a series of roofs actually as they have 4 premises in the  Tri-city. The most central is just on the edge of Gdansk old town where you will find a team of experts to pamper you to within an inch of your life. Each salon has hairdressers and stylists, cosmetologists, masseurs and manicurists who are all specialists in different forms of their particular fields. As well as their old town location you will also find them at Galeria Baltycka, Riviera in Gdynia and the Carrefour centre in the Morena district, so you can shop and pamper yourself in one trip. QB-3, ul. Elżbietańska 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 06 63, www.jandre.pl. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

MERA SPA  The impressive Mera hotel offers a comprehensive range of spa and beauty treatments along with Finnish saunas and 8 indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis. There are 35 modern treatment rooms offering everything from body and facial treatments to massage and complete spa packages specially designed for women, men, couples and even children. In good weather you have to finish with a drink at their rooftop bar and pool. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 80, www.mera-spa.com. SPA zone open 08:00 22:00. Swimming pools open 07:00 - 22:00.

QUADRILLE SPA A wide range of spa, beauty and wellness options available in this stunning new hotel set in a former palace in the Orlowo district of Gdynia. The hotel also had a fitness centre and pool facilities.QN-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia (Quadrille Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 58 351 03 20, www. quadrille.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

THE SPA AT SHERATON SOPOT  The finest spa in Sopot, poss ibly Poland. Featuring select Anne Sémonin treatments pleasures that await include a dazzling swimming pool, Finnish sauna, steam room, a comprehensive range of massage therapies as well as an in-house hairdresser, facial and body treatments, manicure and pedicure. There’s also a pool and fitness room. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 00, www.sheratonsopotspa.pl. www.sheratonsopotspa.pl. Swimming Pool Pool & Fitness open 07:00 - 22:00 (Pool for children under 16, 11:00 - 18:00). facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 111

Leisure

Leisure HOTEL HAFFNER SPA M� M��������� V�����

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Located in the plush Haffner Hotel a range of spa and beauty treatments are available for guests and non-guests. Included in their offer are facials at 100zł, massages at 50zł as well as a range of treatments including Babor, Sensai, Bioline, Alessandro, Filorga and Mesoestetic with prices starting from 150zł. Haffner also has a pool, weight room and sauna available. QM-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 98 53, www.hotelhaffner.pl. www.hotelhaffner.pl. Swimming pool open 07:00 - 22:00. Treatments 08:00 - 22:00 by prior reservation.

JACQUES ANDRÉ

r an an d  p  

SOFITEL SOF ITEL WE WARMLY INVITE YOU TO GRAND SPA, WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY MAGNIFIQUE TREATMENTS BASED ON WELLNESS PHILOSOPHY COMBINED WITH WORLD’S TRADITIONS AND SKILL OF THE LATEST FRENCH COSMETOLOGY REPRESENTED BY CINQ MONDES AND VALMONT. JOIN RELAXING JOURNEY FOR YOUR BODY, MIND AND SOUL IN GRAND SPA! TO TAKE AN ADVANTAGE OF THE SAUNA, HAMMAM AND SWIMMING POOL. DISCOVER ALL OUR MAGNIFIQUE ADDRESSES IN OVER 40 COUNTRIES ON   WWW.SOFITEL.COM

SWIMMING AQUAPARK 

SLEIGH RIDES KOLANO STABLES  Two hor ses p ull o ne big carriage through the s hadowy Kashubian woods. Sausages, hot drinks and a bonfire are the bonus, as well as the opportunity to see the world’s longest wooden plank in Szymbark (really). Nighttime rides are also available with torches. Organisers speak English and German. Price per person is 20zł for adults, 15zł for children. Snow necessary of course. QKolano 74, Wieżyca, tel. (+48) 58 684 38 93, www. stadninakolano.pl.

TABUN Found just off the main Gdańsk-Sopot-Gdynia road (nearest train station Sopot Kamienny Potok) the complex consists of a three-lane, 25m long pool, a recreational swimming pool featuring cascades and a water grotto and a pool specially designed for children featuring slides, geysers and water cannons. A seasonal outdoor pool with slides and climbing frames is also open during the summer. QM-2, ul. Zamkowa Góra 3-5, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 85 23, www.aquaparksopot.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, AquaSPA Open Mon-Fri 11:00 - 22:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Pool tickets: Mon - Fri 16zł/1 hr, 36zł /3 hrs, all day 46zł; Sat, Sun 21/16zł/ 1hr, 42/37zł /3 hrs and 50/47zł all day. Pool + SPA: 36zł/1 hr, 65zł/3 hrs, 80zł all day. SPA: Mon - Fri 11:00 - 14:00 20zł/1 hr, 35zł all day. day. At other times 28zł /1 hr, 45zł/3hrs and 50zł all day. Y

Horse-drawn sleigh rides when there’s snow to sleigh on.Qul. Konna 29, Otomin (7km from the centre of Gdańsk), tel. (+48) 58 303 97 10, www.tabun.kuznia.net.

SPA & BEAUTY GRAND SPA Find a wide range of Sopo t spa treatments in the luxurious surroundings of Sopot’s signature Grand Hotel, overlooking the gardens and beach. Also available are a hammam, sauna, gym and swimming pool. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14 (Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 85, www.sofitel-grand-sopot.com. Swimming pool and fitness centre open 07:00 - 22:00. SPA open 09:00 - 22:00.

110 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

A complete and beauty spa service under one roof - well a series of roofs actually as they have 4 premises in the  Tri-city. The most central is just on the edge of Gdansk old town where you will find a team of experts to pamper you to within an inch of your life. Each salon has hairdressers and stylists, cosmetologists, masseurs and manicurists who are all specialists in different forms of their particular fields. As well as their old town location you will also find them at Galeria Baltycka, Riviera in Gdynia and the Carrefour centre in the Morena district, so you can shop and pamper yourself in one trip. QB-3, ul. Elżbietańska 9/10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 682 06 63, www.jandre.pl. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

MERA SPA  The impressive Mera hotel offers a comprehensive range of spa and beauty treatments along with Finnish saunas and 8 indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis. There are 35 modern treatment rooms offering everything from body and facial treatments to massage and complete spa packages specially designed for women, men, couples and even children. In good weather you have to finish with a drink at their rooftop bar and pool. QM-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59 (Mera SPA Hotel), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 80, www.mera-spa.com. SPA zone open 08:00 22:00. Swimming pools open 07:00 - 22:00.

QUADRILLE SPA A wide range of spa, beauty and wellness options available in this stunning new hotel set in a former palace in the Orlowo district of Gdynia. The hotel also had a fitness centre and pool facilities.QN-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia (Quadrille Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 58 351 03 20, www. quadrille.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

THE SPA AT SHERATON SOPOT  The finest spa in Sopot, poss ibly Poland. Featuring select Anne Sémonin treatments pleasures that await include a dazzling swimming pool, Finnish sauna, steam room, a comprehensive range of massage therapies as well as an in-house hairdresser, facial and body treatments, manicure and pedicure. There’s also a pool and fitness room. QM-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 19 00, www.sheratonsopotspa.pl. www.sheratonsopotspa.pl. Swimming Pool Pool & Fitness open 07:00 - 22:00 (Pool for children under 16, 11:00 - 18:00).

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

December 2015 - April 2016 111

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Shopping

Shopping GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT D-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Q

POD ŁOSOSIEM RESTAURANT C-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.podlososiem.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Q

 AMBER & JEWELLERY JEWELLERY

Find somegreatlocal  somegreatlocal Kashubi  Kashubi  bian ggift  ift s at Gale Galeria ria Ka  Kaszubska szubska

It’s now easier to count the international brand names who are not present than those that are. So if your ambition is to shop until you drop while you are here we suggest the first place you look is at the list of hypermarkets and malls listed in our shopping section. While this is not a list of all, it is a selection of what we view as the best ones from each of the 3 cities. With Madison the most central in Gdansk old town, Klif the most upmarket in the whole city and Galeria Baltycka the most convenient large mall in Gdansk you can sate most shopping desires there. A tour around the Obwodnica (Tri-city Ring Road) will bring in the huge discount park which is Fashion House Outlet Centre as well as the huge hypermarkets of Carrefour, Auchan and Real. We have also put together a list of gift and souvenir suggestions which might take a little more searching in order to find.

LATE NIGHT SHOPS KOS A clean, modern supermarket in the centre of the old town close to the tower of St Mary’s Basilica. Open throughout the night, you can expect to find all your necessities here such as milk, bread and beer. QC-4, ul. Piwna 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 309 15 20, www.calodobowygdansk.pl.

MILAQN-2, ul. Świętojańska 18, Gdynia. NON STOPQL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 57 62. 112 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

 ALCOHOL  There are a number of local drinks which will make for excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the end of WWII and this ‘Original Der Lachs’version can still be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant on the waterfront. Poland is also home to some of the world’s best vodkas and while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called Zubrowka, a vodka flavoured with a type of grass from the primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here, it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally as a tatanka. Finally you will also find in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.

CENTRUM WINA F-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 43 30, www.centrumwina.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Q

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 There are a number of local drinks which will make for excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the end of WWII and this ‘Original Der Lachs’version can still be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant on the waterfront. Poland is also home to some of the world’s best vodkas and while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called Zubrowka, a vodka flavoured with a type of grass from the primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here, it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally as a tatanka. Finally you will also find in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.

AMBER MODA Expertly crafted necklaces, rings, bracelets etc. Exhibitions also regularly organised. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 12-16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 501 41 49 00, www.ambermoda.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

GALERIA WYDRA Amber and miscellaneous jewellery. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 77 79. Open 10:00 - 17:00.

TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per  Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com www.globalblue.com.. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

OUTLET SOPOT An outlet store on Sopot’s main street offering men and women’s fashion from international brands such as Ralph Lauren, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tod’s and Tory Burch as well as children’s collections Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. You’ll find clothes, shoes and accessories at large discounts off list prices and a very friendly staff happy to help you find something to take home with you. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 26, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 36 68, www.polo-outlet. pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

PRACOWNIA I GALERIA STYL D-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 31, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 80, www.amberstyl.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Q

STUDIO AMBER Amber pieces, many of which being the work of budding graduates from the Gdansk Academy of Fine Arts. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 55. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Y

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS Gdansk and Poland have a tumultuous history and the city is much changed to the way it looked 100 years ago. A combination of huge WWII bombing, post-war Socialist planning and social and cultural change have changed the look completely of the people and the city. There are two series of photo album style books which capture this wonderfully with pictures of before, during and after the events of WWII.  The first entitled ‘Byl Sobie Gdansk’ (There once was a Gdansk) is a series of books which were published by former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (a Gdanskian and Kashubian) in the years before he became a full-time politician. You’ll recognise many of the old Gdansk, Wrzeszcz and Sopot streets and see how once people lived. Contrasting dramatically is a series published by photographer Maciej Kosycarz entitled Extraordinary Ordinary Photographs which presents the work of both himself and his father during the period 1945-2007 and which demonstrate the destruction of the city in 1945 and both the painstaking rebuilding and life in the People’s Republic in the years after. It is now available with English language captions. Gdansk is also the former home of Nobel prize winning author Gunter Grass. His stories are often set against the backdrop of inter-war Danzig and none capture the time better than The Tin Drum, the work for which he was awarded the Literature prize. While these books will generally be available in major Tri-city bookshops, you’ll have to go online to pick up another recommended book Sean Lester, Poland and the Nazi takeover of Danzig - which recounts the story of the Irishman and League of Nations High Commissioner Sean Lester who governed here between 1934 and 1937. December 2015 - April 2016 113

Shopping

Shopping GOLDWASSER RESTAURANT D-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www.goldwasser.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Q

POD ŁOSOSIEM RESTAURANT C-4, ul. Szeroka 52-54, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 76 52, www.podlososiem.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Q

 AMBER & JEWELLERY JEWELLERY

Find somegreatlocal  somegreatlocal Kashubi  Kashubi  bian ggift  ift s at Gale Galeria ria Ka  Kaszubska szubska

It’s now easier to count the international brand names who are not present than those that are. So if your ambition is to shop until you drop while you are here we suggest the first place you look is at the list of hypermarkets and malls listed in our shopping section. While this is not a list of all, it is a selection of what we view as the best ones from each of the 3 cities. With Madison the most central in Gdansk old town, Klif the most upmarket in the whole city and Galeria Baltycka the most convenient large mall in Gdansk you can sate most shopping desires there. A tour around the Obwodnica (Tri-city Ring Road) will bring in the huge discount park which is Fashion House Outlet Centre as well as the huge hypermarkets of Carrefour, Auchan and Real. We have also put together a list of gift and souvenir suggestions which might take a little more searching in order to find.

LATE NIGHT SHOPS KOS A clean, modern supermarket in the centre of the old town close to the tower of St Mary’s Basilica. Open throughout the night, you can expect to find all your necessities here such as milk, bread and beer. QC-4, ul. Piwna 11/12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 309 15 20, www.calodobowygdansk.pl.

MILAQN-2, ul. Świętojańska 18, Gdynia. NON STOPQL-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 60, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 57 62.

 ALCOHOL  There are a number of local drinks which will make for excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the end of WWII and this ‘Original Der Lachs’version can still be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant on the waterfront. Poland is also home to some of the world’s best vodkas and while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called Zubrowka, a vodka flavoured with a type of grass from the primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here, it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally as a tatanka. Finally you will also find in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.

CENTRUM WINA F-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 552 43 30, www.centrumwina.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Q

112 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 There are a number of local drinks which will make for excellent presents and souvenirs none more so than the Gdansk signature drink - Goldwasser. Distilled in the city since the 17th century it is a sweet juniper based drink containing pieces of gold leaf making for a visually impressive gift. The original recipe was taken to Germany at the end of WWII and this ‘Original Der Lachs’version can still be bought in the Pod Lososiem restaurant while a German resident of the city has created excellent boxed sets of Goldwasser which can be bought through his restaurant on the waterfront. Poland is also home to some of the world’s best vodkas and while Chopin and Belvedere are regarded as the best Polish brands it is also worth keeping an eye for something called Zubrowka, a vodka flavoured with a type of grass from the primeval Bialowieza Forest in eastern Poland. Remarkably cheap in comparison to the other drinks mentioned here, it is usually drunk with apple juice in what is known locally as a tatanka. Finally you will also find in selected places bottles of Nalewka which are vodka or spirit based alcohols which have been mixed with various fruits and left to age. They are often tastier and easier to drink than simple vodka and often come in attractive bottles which make for an attractive gift.

AMBER MODA Expertly crafted necklaces, rings, bracelets etc. Exhibitions also regularly organised. QM-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 12-16, Sopot, tel. (+48) 501 41 49 00, www.ambermoda.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

GALERIA WYDRA Amber and miscellaneous jewellery. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 49, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 77 79. Open 10:00 - 17:00.

TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per  Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com www.globalblue.com.. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Shopping GDA ŃSK IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the content we have on Gdansk, Sopot, Gdynia and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com poland.inyourpocket.com - - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Krakow, Wrocław, Katowice and Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!  COMMUNIST EUROVISION You might be aware that back in the days of the Cold War, Poland, and in particular Sopot played host to the Communist world’s equivalent of the Eurovision Song Contest every year. Set in the wonderful Forest Opera this episode is just part of the history of what is today one of Europe’s finest open-air theatre stages. Read more about the Forest Opera and the ‘Interwizja’ contest here. iyp.me/forestopera FROMBORK & NICHOLAS COPERNICUS Copernicus, the man who revealed to the world that the earth orbited the sun and not the other way around, was born in Torun and did much of his research in the coastal town of Frombork. You can visit the town easily from Gdansk and discover more about the man, whose remains were discovered in the town’s cathedral only in 2010.  To find out how to get to Frombork and what Copernicus achieved there take a look at: iyp.me/frombork  PHOENIX FROM THE FLAMES Are you trying to reconcile the fact that the buildings in the city you are walking through appear to be hundreds of years old while regularly being presented with evidence that the area of the old town was nearly completely flattened at the end of WWII? The story of what was rebuilt at the end of WWII and also how and why is covered in our feature Phoenix from the Flames.  To find out how close the city came to becoming a pearl of Socialist Modernism take a loo k at: Iyp.me/phoenix 114 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

OUTLET SOPOT An outlet store on Sopot’s main street offering men and women’s fashion from international brands such as Ralph Lauren, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tod’s and Tory Burch as well as children’s collections Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. You’ll find clothes, shoes and accessories at large discounts off list prices and a very friendly staff happy to help you find something to take home with you. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 26, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 341 36 68, www.polo-outlet. pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

PRACOWNIA I GALERIA STYL D-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 31, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 43 80, www.amberstyl.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Q

STUDIO AMBER Amber pieces, many of which being the work of budding graduates from the Gdansk Academy of Fine Arts. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 10 55. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Y

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS Gdansk and Poland have a tumultuous history and the city is much changed to the way it looked 100 years ago. A combination of huge WWII bombing, post-war Socialist planning and social and cultural change have changed the look completely of the people and the city. There are two series of photo album style books which capture this wonderfully with pictures of before, during and after the events of WWII.  The first entitled ‘Byl Sobie Gdansk’ (There once was a Gdansk) is a series of books which were published by former Prime Minister Donald Tusk (a Gdanskian and Kashubian) in the years before he became a full-time politician. You’ll recognise many of the old Gdansk, Wrzeszcz and Sopot streets and see how once people lived. Contrasting dramatically is a series published by photographer Maciej Kosycarz entitled Extraordinary Ordinary Photographs which presents the work of both himself and his father during the period 1945-2007 and which demonstrate the destruction of the city in 1945 and both the painstaking rebuilding and life in the People’s Republic in the years after. It is now available with English language captions. Gdansk is also the former home of Nobel prize winning author Gunter Grass. His stories are often set against the backdrop of inter-war Danzig and none capture the time better than The Tin Drum, the work for which he was awarded the Literature prize. While these books will generally be available in major Tri-city bookshops, you’ll have to go online to pick up another recommended book Sean Lester, Poland and the Nazi takeover of Danzig - which recounts the story of the Irishman and League of Nations High Commissioner Sean Lester who governed here between 1934 and 1937. December 2015 - April 2016 113

Shopping EMPIK  Also at ul. Kołobrzeska 41c (Alfa Centrum, Przymorze), ul. Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4), ul. Złota Karczma 26 (Park Handlowy Matarnia); in Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68 (N-2); in Sopot, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63 (M-4). QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 66, www.empik.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

MACAROONS’ PARADISE

FASHION & ACCESSORIES ETER BOUTIQUE

Discover a charming and lovely FRENCH BOUTIQUE with delicious and homemade french macaroons made by Armand himself. Let yourself be surprised by our 16 originals flavours...

 Tucked away towards th e rear of Sop ot’s ‘Crooked House’ is this little boutique selling the work of a local designer. While this writer is no fashionista, our shopping expert thinks that this is a highly recommendable place based on what she describes as ‘original ‘original designs at affordable prices.’ Creating a style somewhere between elegant, classic and avant-garde, this is definitely worth a look for those interested in local fashion. Note from February you’ll find them at ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6 (Dom Zdrojowy).QM-4, ul. Haffnera 6 (Crooked House), Sopot, tel. (+48) 502 69 29 96, www.butiketer.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 17:00.

Monsieur Armand Władysława IV 23/30 81-358 Gdynia [email protected] + 48 570 745 635 www.monsieur-armand.wix.com/france

GALERIA SZTUKI KASZUBSKIEJ �KASHUBIAN ART GALLERY� A fantastic little place if you are looking for local handicrafts to take home as gifts. The business is run by a mother and daughter and on certain days you’ll even find a granddaughter present. The daughter is a designer while the mother makes all the clothes by hand. Lots of wonderful gifts all based on the local Kashubian region’s traditions. QC-4, ul. Św. Ducha 48, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 503 00 59 78, www.gskart.pl. www.gskart.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From April open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SALONIK POD SKRZYDLATYM ANIOŁEM  This mother and daughter team offer some genuinely original and local gifts including made-to-measure, hand sewn and embroidered clothes made from Polish linen.  Then there is a range of jewellery using silver, amber and precious stones which are designed and made by the couple. Our favourites though are the handmade sculptures using ceramic, wood and amber. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 25/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 501 06 99 88. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

STORE&MORE Located on the square in Sopot is a newly opened, fourstorey fashion store carrying the ranges of a multitude of top international brands such as Desigual, Bynamesakke,  Tommy Hilfiger, New Balance, Quicksilver, Roxy, Adidas and Pepe to name just a few. In a town with relatively few shopping options, this is well-worth a look. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 881 64 82 16. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. gdansk.inyourpocket.com

FOOD & SWEETS Poles love their food and in p articular their pickles and their sweets. One company called Krakowski Kredens (Krakow Dresser) offers a range of pickles, sweets and the like in attractive packaging which you’ll find in their points in most Alma supermarkets.

MONSIEUR ARMAND  Those with a sweet tooth will love these. Macaroons are very fashionable and we doubt that there’s a better exponent of the art of making them in Poland than M. Armand. Macaroons for the uninitiated are small, light circular biscuits, smooth on the inside and crunchy on the outside made using a set of base ingredients of ground almonds, sugar and egg whites. That however simplifies the art as the finished products are small works of art, coming in a wide range of colours and flavours depending on the imagination of the person preparing them. In this case, it’s Monsieur Armand, who honed his art in his native France. You can buy these sweet little packets in singles or create your own selection boxes in quantities from 6 to 112 and note you can get 2 macaroons and a coffee or tea for just 10zł from Mon Fri between 09:00 and 11:00. QN-1, ul. Władysława IV 23/30, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 570 74 56 35, www.monsieurarmand.wix.com/france armand.wix .com/france.. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

MADE IN GDA ŃSK Forget your Fahrenheits and ignore your Wałęsas, the tri-city has produced a factory line of famous faces, not least Donald  Tusk, the current President of the European Council. However, there’s so many more. Take for example Artur Schopenhauer, a philosopher who outArthur Schopenhauer geeks Fahrenheit. By the by J. Schäfer, 1859 age of 25 he had published a book called ‘On the Four fold Root of the Principle of Suffi cient Reaso n’, and his writing s would go on to influence thinkers of the calibre of Freud and Einstein. Boxer Dariusz ‘Tiger’ Michalczewski, who comes from Brzezno but defected to West Germany in 1988, came within one defence of breaking Rocky Marciano’s record of successive defences between 1994 and 2003. But let the final word go to Paul Beneke, a naval chief who stole Hans Memling’s triptych ‘The Last Judgement’ after boldly boarding Britain’s St Thomas in 1473. The result of his deft act of robbery hangs to this day in the National Museum in Gdańsk. December 2015 - April 2016 115

Shopping GDA ŃSK IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the content we have on Gdansk, Sopot, Gdynia and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com poland.inyourpocket.com - - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Krakow, Wrocław, Katowice and Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!  COMMUNIST EUROVISION You might be aware that back in the days of the Cold War, Poland, and in particular Sopot played host to the Communist world’s equivalent of the Eurovision Song Contest every year. Set in the wonderful Forest Opera this episode is just part of the history of what is today one of Europe’s finest open-air theatre stages. Read more about the Forest Opera and the ‘Interwizja’ contest here. iyp.me/forestopera FROMBORK & NICHOLAS COPERNICUS Copernicus, the man who revealed to the world that the earth orbited the sun and not the other way around, was born in Torun and did much of his research in the coastal town of Frombork. You can visit the town easily from Gdansk and discover more about the man, whose remains were discovered in the town’s cathedral only in 2010.  To find out how to get to Frombork and what Copernicus achieved there take a look at: iyp.me/frombork  PHOENIX FROM THE FLAMES Are you trying to reconcile the fact that the buildings in the city you are walking through appear to be hundreds of years old while regularly being presented with evidence that the area of the old town was nearly completely flattened at the end of WWII? The story of what was rebuilt at the end of WWII and also how and why is covered in our feature Phoenix from the Flames.  To find out how close the city came to becoming a pearl of Socialist Modernism take a loo k at: Iyp.me/phoenix

Shopping EMPIK  Also at ul. Kołobrzeska 41c (Alfa Centrum, Przymorze), ul. Grunwaldzka 141 (Galeria Bałtycka, F-4), ul. Złota Karczma 26 (Park Handlowy Matarnia); in Gdynia, ul. Świętojańska 68 (N-2); in Sopot, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63 (M-4). QB-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 66, www.empik.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

MACAROONS’ PARADISE

FASHION & ACCESSORIES ETER BOUTIQUE

Discover a charming and lovely FRENCH BOUTIQUE with delicious and homemade french macaroons made by Armand himself. Let yourself be surprised by our 16 originals flavours...

 Tucked away towards th e rear of Sop ot’s ‘Crooked House’ is this little boutique selling the work of a local designer. While this writer is no fashionista, our shopping expert thinks that this is a highly recommendable place based on what she describes as ‘original ‘original designs at affordable prices.’ Creating a style somewhere between elegant, classic and avant-garde, this is definitely worth a look for those interested in local fashion. Note from February you’ll find them at ul. Powstańców Warszawy 6 (Dom Zdrojowy).QM-4, ul. Haffnera 6 (Crooked House), Sopot, tel. (+48) 502 69 29 96, www.butiketer.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 17:00.

Monsieur Armand Władysława IV 23/30 81-358 Gdynia [email protected] + 48 570 745 635 www.monsieur-armand.wix.com/france

GALERIA SZTUKI KASZUBSKIEJ �KASHUBIAN ART GALLERY� A fantastic little place if you are looking for local handicrafts to take home as gifts. The business is run by a mother and daughter and on certain days you’ll even find a granddaughter present. The daughter is a designer while the mother makes all the clothes by hand. Lots of wonderful gifts all based on the local Kashubian region’s traditions. QC-4, ul. Św. Ducha 48, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 503 00 59 78, www.gskart.pl. www.gskart.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From April open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SALONIK POD SKRZYDLATYM ANIOŁEM  This mother and daughter team offer some genuinely original and local gifts including made-to-measure, hand sewn and embroidered clothes made from Polish linen.  Then there is a range of jewellery using silver, amber and precious stones which are designed and made by the couple. Our favourites though are the handmade sculptures using ceramic, wood and amber. QC-4, ul. Mariacka 25/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 501 06 99 88. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

STORE&MORE Located on the square in Sopot is a newly opened, fourstorey fashion store carrying the ranges of a multitude of top international brands such as Desigual, Bynamesakke,  Tommy Hilfiger, New Balance, Quicksilver, Roxy, Adidas and Pepe to name just a few. In a town with relatively few shopping options, this is well-worth a look. QM-4, ul. Bohaterów Monte Cassino 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 881 64 82 16. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

114 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

FOOD & SWEETS Poles love their food and in p articular their pickles and their sweets. One company called Krakowski Kredens (Krakow Dresser) offers a range of pickles, sweets and the like in attractive packaging which you’ll find in their points in most Alma supermarkets.

MONSIEUR ARMAND  Those with a sweet tooth will love these. Macaroons are very fashionable and we doubt that there’s a better exponent of the art of making them in Poland than M. Armand. Macaroons for the uninitiated are small, light circular biscuits, smooth on the inside and crunchy on the outside made using a set of base ingredients of ground almonds, sugar and egg whites. That however simplifies the art as the finished products are small works of art, coming in a wide range of colours and flavours depending on the imagination of the person preparing them. In this case, it’s Monsieur Armand, who honed his art in his native France. You can buy these sweet little packets in singles or create your own selection boxes in quantities from 6 to 112 and note you can get 2 macaroons and a coffee or tea for just 10zł from Mon Fri between 09:00 and 11:00. QN-1, ul. Władysława IV 23/30, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 570 74 56 35, www.monsieurarmand.wix.com/france armand.wix .com/france.. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

MADE IN GDA ŃSK Forget your Fahrenheits and ignore your Wałęsas, the tri-city has produced a factory line of famous faces, not least Donald  Tusk, the current President of the European Council. However, there’s so many more. Take for example Artur Schopenhauer, a philosopher who outArthur Schopenhauer geeks Fahrenheit. By the by J. Schäfer, 1859 age of 25 he had published a book called ‘On the Four fold Root of the Principle of Suffi cient Reaso n’, and his writing s would go on to influence thinkers of the calibre of Freud and Einstein. Boxer Dariusz ‘Tiger’ Michalczewski, who comes from Brzezno but defected to West Germany in 1988, came within one defence of breaking Rocky Marciano’s record of successive defences between 1994 and 2003. But let the final word go to Paul Beneke, a naval chief who stole Hans Memling’s triptych ‘The Last Judgement’ after boldly boarding Britain’s St Thomas in 1473. The result of his deft act of robbery hangs to this day in the National Museum in Gdańsk. December 2015 - April 2016 115

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Shopping GIFTS & SOUVENIRS What we have tried to do here is highlight not just the better of the traditional souvenir shops but also try to bring your attention to local shops and companies who sell local products or products typically associated with the area. First of all you are in the heart of the Kashubian region here, home to the Kashubian people one of the largest sur viving ethnic minorities in Europe. Distinct from Poles in both language and culture the Kashubians are an integral part of modern Poland but also have a clear identity visible in their peculiar language, which sounds like a mix of Polish and German, and in their crafts. Kashubians particularly pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, the latter of which comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and bloodshed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and blue the sk y, lakes and sea. Designs are simple, cheerful and are used on everything from clothes to ceramics. Other things to look out for are their wood car vings and basket woven items.  There is nothing which says Gdansk more than the iconic Solidarność (Solidarity) logo which has come to signify the movement of people across Poland who together led to the Berlin Wall crashing down. Those interested in the movement and the history will find a range of books dedicated to the subject as well as postcards, photo albums, souvenirs and even recreations of communist era items such as ration books are now available. For those really into their football you might think about picking up a Poland national side shirt. You’ll also find a stand in Galeria Bałtycka dedicated to local club Lechia Gdańsk. Other specialties of the region include Kashubian pottery, sweets and particularly gingerbread from the city of Toruń to the south and cut glass. One option is to take a look at local company Findlocalgift who have sourced lots of interesting locally produced or locally themed gifts and put them together online. They’ll parcel up your gift and deliver it to your hotel for free or courier it to your home for a charge. Alternatively here are some of the shops where you can buy some of the items mentioned above.

Shopping ATELIER MAGDA BENEDA A wonderful little gallery run by a woman (pani Magda) who is both clearly talented and professional. Everything on show here would make a wonderful gift including the paintings on the wall and the beautiful shaped and coloured tableware which comes in a range of attractive designs with a Tri-city theme. You get the gifts in beautiful, locally produced packaging which, in our opinion, makes them that bit more attractive. For the moment cross over the river to find the gallery just along the street from the Brovarnia restaurant, although it is due to move during this issue (check Facebook for details). QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 601 67 19 5 9, www.magdabeneda.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

 ART BALTICUM BALTICUM    

MADE BY ART CERAMICS

HAND IN

CERAMIKA BOLESŁAW BOLESŁAWIECKA IECKA

POLAND

Hand-crafted and hand-painted ceramics originating in the south-west of Poland with many of the patterns forming an important part of the shared Silesian culture of Germans and Poles.QD-5, ul. Stągiewna 18, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 303 61 14, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

GDAŃSK SOUVENIR CENTRE A souvenir gallery in the centre of the old town with a pretty comprehensive collection of artistic Gdansk handicrafts including Polish glass and ceramics. QC-4, ul. Długa 29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 11 50. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Y

GLASS STUDIO HABRAT Located in the cellar of what is reputed to be Gdansk’s oldest surviving house, this is the gallery of a small Polish glass studio, the owners of which can regularly be found serving the customers. Worth a look for some very attractive, original and interesting designs of jewellery and ornaments.QC-4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 600 83 70 19, www.glassstudiohabrat.com. Open 10:00 18:00.

ROCK SHOP OK. This is hardly a ‘local’ gift but nothing in the city will show a total stranger anywhere else in the world that you (or a relative) has been to Gdansk than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt. It’s probably fair to say that HRC will do as much to get the name of the city out there globally as anything the local promotions department can do. Find a range of Hard Rock Cafe clothing and souvenirs in the store adjacent to the restaurant on ul. Dlugi Targ. The classic white t-shirt will cost you 100zł. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35-38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SZAFA GDAŃSKA A wide selection of old Danzig photos, books, post cards, images, graphics, albums and assorted handmade curios. QB-4, ul. Garbary 14/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 05 87 10, www.szafagdanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. Y 116 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

ART GLASS

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DECORATION

MARKETS Once upon a time, these were the places where the bulk of shopping was done by locals. Rows and rows of kiosks would offer you anything they could get their hands on to sell and particularly in the post-1989 years these places positively thrived. The advent of the western style shopping mall and the huge out-of-town hypermarkets have turned these market places into little more than flea markets and the number of people using them has dropped dramatically. Still many people use them both out of habit and because prices tend to be cheaper so they can p resent an interesting look into what life used to be like. While products such as clothes and perfumes can now be bought in better quality elsewhere there are still bargains to be had and fruit and veg still tends to be fresher and cheaper here.

HALA TARGOWA GDAŃSK  One of the strangest buildings in the city, the covered market wouldn’t look out of place posing as a provincial 19thcentury train station in the south of France. Built in 1896 in a Neo-Gothic style, the market has recently been completely renovated at a cost of 20zl million, an act that led to the discovery of the foundations of one of the city’s oldest churches, the 12th century Church of St Nicolas, underneath the main market building. Amid the facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

JEWELLERY

cheap clothing stalls and rows of meat and dairy produce, the church’s foundations have been left as they were found, providing a small, living archaeology museum in the basement along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how the church might have looked. QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 346 31 33, www.halatargowa.pl. Open 09:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

HALA TARGOWA GDYNIA One of the few places left in the Tricity where you can get that authentic old time shopping experience. While you won’t get the rough and tumble associated with Warsaw’s famous ‘Russian Market’, what you will find is a large Hala  Targowa (Trading Hall) containing rows of independent traders offering everything from clothing to electronic equipment. Very popular with the visiting Swedish shoppers looking to pick up a bargain, the market is a glimpse into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western style Hypermarket and Shopping Malls now so familiar in Poland. Find it close to Gdynia Main Railway station.QN-1, ul. Wójta Radtkiego 36-40, Gdynia, www. haletargowegdynia.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 15:00. Closed Sun.

SOPOCKI RYNEK  A local market which opens on Tuesdays and Fridays for a mix of local produce, furniture and clothing. QL-5, ul. Polna 8-12, Sopot. December 2015 - April 2016 117

Shopping GIFTS & SOUVENIRS What we have tried to do here is highlight not just the better of the traditional souvenir shops but also try to bring your attention to local shops and companies who sell local products or products typically associated with the area. First of all you are in the heart of the Kashubian region here, home to the Kashubian people one of the largest sur viving ethnic minorities in Europe. Distinct from Poles in both language and culture the Kashubians are an integral part of modern Poland but also have a clear identity visible in their peculiar language, which sounds like a mix of Polish and German, and in their crafts. Kashubians particularly pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, the latter of which comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and bloodshed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and blue the sk y, lakes and sea. Designs are simple, cheerful and are used on everything from clothes to ceramics. Other things to look out for are their wood car vings and basket woven items.  There is nothing which says Gdansk more than the iconic Solidarność (Solidarity) logo which has come to signify the movement of people across Poland who together led to the Berlin Wall crashing down. Those interested in the movement and the history will find a range of books dedicated to the subject as well as postcards, photo albums, souvenirs and even recreations of communist era items such as ration books are now available. For those really into their football you might think about picking up a Poland national side shirt. You’ll also find a stand in Galeria Bałtycka dedicated to local club Lechia Gdańsk. Other specialties of the region include Kashubian pottery, sweets and particularly gingerbread from the city of Toruń to the south and cut glass. One option is to take a look at local company Findlocalgift who have sourced lots of interesting locally produced or locally themed gifts and put them together online. They’ll parcel up your gift and deliver it to your hotel for free or courier it to your home for a charge. Alternatively here are some of the shops where you can buy some of the items mentioned above.

Shopping ATELIER MAGDA BENEDA

ART GLASS

A wonderful little gallery run by a woman (pani Magda) who is both clearly talented and professional. Everything on show here would make a wonderful gift including the paintings on the wall and the beautiful shaped and coloured tableware which comes in a range of attractive designs with a Tri-city theme. You get the gifts in beautiful, locally produced packaging which, in our opinion, makes them that bit more attractive. For the moment cross over the river to find the gallery just along the street from the Brovarnia restaurant, although it is due to move during this issue (check Facebook for details). QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 11, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 601 67 19 5 9, www.magdabeneda.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

 ART BALTICUM BALTICUM    

MADE BY ART CERAMICS

HAND IN

CERAMIKA BOLESŁAW BOLESŁAWIECKA IECKA

POLAND

Hand-crafted and hand-painted ceramics originating in the south-west of Poland with many of the patterns forming an important part of the shared Silesian culture of Germans and Poles.QD-5, ul. Stągiewna 18, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 303 61 14, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

GDAŃSK SOUVENIR CENTRE A souvenir gallery in the centre of the old town with a pretty comprehensive collection of artistic Gdansk handicrafts including Polish glass and ceramics. QC-4, ul. Długa 29, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 11 50. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Y

GLASS STUDIO HABRAT Located in the cellar of what is reputed to be Gdansk’s oldest surviving house, this is the gallery of a small Polish glass studio, the owners of which can regularly be found serving the customers. Worth a look for some very attractive, original and interesting designs of jewellery and ornaments.QC-4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 600 83 70 19, www.glassstudiohabrat.com. Open 10:00 18:00.

ROCK SHOP OK. This is hardly a ‘local’ gift but nothing in the city will show a total stranger anywhere else in the world that you (or a relative) has been to Gdansk than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt. It’s probably fair to say that HRC will do as much to get the name of the city out there globally as anything the local promotions department can do. Find a range of Hard Rock Cafe clothing and souvenirs in the store adjacent to the restaurant on ul. Dlugi Targ. The classic white t-shirt will cost you 100zł. QC-5, ul. Długi Targ 35-38, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 535 77 04, www.hardrock.com/gdansk. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SZAFA GDAŃSKA A wide selection of old Danzig photos, books, post cards, images, graphics, albums and assorted handmade curios. QB-4, ul. Garbary 14/1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 510 05 87 10, www.szafagdanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. Y 116 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

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DECORATION

MARKETS Once upon a time, these were the places where the bulk of shopping was done by locals. Rows and rows of kiosks would offer you anything they could get their hands on to sell and particularly in the post-1989 years these places positively thrived. The advent of the western style shopping mall and the huge out-of-town hypermarkets have turned these market places into little more than flea markets and the number of people using them has dropped dramatically. Still many people use them both out of habit and because prices tend to be cheaper so they can p resent an interesting look into what life used to be like. While products such as clothes and perfumes can now be bought in better quality elsewhere there are still bargains to be had and fruit and veg still tends to be fresher and cheaper here.

HALA TARGOWA GDAŃSK  One of the strangest buildings in the city, the covered market wouldn’t look out of place posing as a provincial 19thcentury train station in the south of France. Built in 1896 in a Neo-Gothic style, the market has recently been completely renovated at a cost of 20zl million, an act that led to the discovery of the foundations of one of the city’s oldest churches, the 12th century Church of St Nicolas, underneath the main market building. Amid the facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Shopping

JEWELLERY

cheap clothing stalls and rows of meat and dairy produce, the church’s foundations have been left as they were found, providing a small, living archaeology museum in the basement along with a display of photographs, objects found during the excavations and drawings of how the church might have looked. QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 346 31 33, www.halatargowa.pl. Open 09:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

HALA TARGOWA GDYNIA One of the few places left in the Tricity where you can get that authentic old time shopping experience. While you won’t get the rough and tumble associated with Warsaw’s famous ‘Russian Market’, what you will find is a large Hala  Targowa (Trading Hall) containing rows of independent traders offering everything from clothing to electronic equipment. Very popular with the visiting Swedish shoppers looking to pick up a bargain, the market is a glimpse into post-communist Poland before the arrival of the western style Hypermarket and Shopping Malls now so familiar in Poland. Find it close to Gdynia Main Railway station.QN-1, ul. Wójta Radtkiego 36-40, Gdynia, www. haletargowegdynia.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 15:00. Closed Sun.

SOPOCKI RYNEK  A local market which opens on Tuesdays and Fridays for a mix of local produce, furniture and clothing. QL-5, ul. Polna 8-12, Sopot. December 2015 - April 2016 117

Shopping SHOPPING MALLS FASHION HOUSES Set in what looks like a seaside fishing village complete with lighthouse, you’ll find big name brands at knockdown prices. Stores include Adidas, Nike, Reebok, Mexx, Puma, Levis, Big Star, Quicksilver, Timberland, Vero Moda and Converse. The centre also includes cafes and an indoor play area for the kids. Located on the Tri-city ring road just outside Gdańsk, the centre can be reached easily by car or by tram 2 or 6 from Gdańsk main railway station, then change at Gdańsk Chełm, Witosa to the bus 174 which takes you to Przywidzka or Czermińskiego. A taxi will cost about 30zł one-way. Qul. Przywidzka 8, Gdańsk (Szadółki), tel. (+48) 58 320 99 44, www.fashionhouse. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KLIF Klif can be described as the Tri-city’s original shopping mall and continues to offer a choice of some of the highest quality brands in Poland. Covering over 30,000m2 and with car parking for 1,200 cars Klif features over 150 shops with flagship stores Marks & Spencer and H&M, while you’ll also find Benetton, Bizuu, Bohoboco, Calvin Klein Jeans, Deni Cler Milano, Emanuel Berg, Tommy Hilfiger  Tailored, lored, Kalita, Liu Jo, Karen Millen, La Mania, Marciano Marciano Guess, MM Fashion, New Look, Patrizia Pepe, Pennyblack, Petit Bateau, Pinko, Pollini, Max Mara, Mothercare, Sephora, Splendido (Elisabetta Franchi/Cavalli Class) and Stefanel. Right by Gdynia Orłowo train station on the SKM, you can also take bus S or trolleybus 21 and 31 from Sopot. From Gdynia you can get there with bus S, or trolleybus 21, 26 and 31. From Gdansk city centre Neptun taxis charge approximately 20 Euros one-way. QN-6, Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 93 45, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

CENTRUM RIVIERA

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA

GALERIA HANDLOWA MADISON

Gdynia hits back in the battle of the giant shopping malls with the Centrum Riviera weighing in with 70,000 m² of shopping space providing home for 270 outlets including the Auchan hypermarket, Zara, Bershka, Reserved, Cropp, H&M, Rossmann, Sephora, Douglas and Mango and a playground for kids Fun Park. There’s There’s parking for 1,750 vehicles while the Helios cinema has the biggest theatre in the city at close to 3,000m² and can hold up to 1,300 people. Those who notice that there’s not a single big name fast food outlet on the main street will instead be relieved to find they are all present in the food court here.QN-2/3, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 779 07 10, www.centrumriviera. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Gdansk’s biggest and most popular shopping gallery can be found in the the district of Wrzeszcz at the  junction of the main Tri-city road (al. Grunwaldzka) and the main road to the airport (ul. Slowackiego). You’ll find over 200 stores, boutiques, cafes and restaurants set in a state of the art building with headline stores including a three-level H&M, Peek & Cloppenberg,  Tommy Hilfiger and Zara. Carrefour provide the supermarket while GB has the best food court in the city. There’s There’s also on-site parking for 1,100 cars. The mall is opposite Gdansk-Wrzeszcz train station and can also be reached by trams 6, 9, 11 and 12 from Gdansk city centre while Neptun taxis charge approximately 30zl one-way.QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 51, www.galeriabaltycka.pl/en. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

 The Madison Shopping Gallery is a unique shopping and leisure centre found close to the main train station in the heart of Gdansk. Shoppers have a choice of over one hundred shops and service outlets, restaurants, cafes and ice-cream parlours as well as currency exchange and underground parking. Brands present include Apple, CCC, Douglas, Ecco, Festus, Intersport, MOLTON, New Balance, New Yorker, Mohito, Orsay, Ryłko, Unisono, Venezia, Wólczanka and Wojas and you’ll find a Piotr i Pawel supermarket on level -1.  There’s also the Calypso gym upstairs, an opticians and a laundry. QB-2, ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 766 75 30, www.madison.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Piotr i Pawel supermarket open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Calypso Gym open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

THE KASHUBIANS  The Kashubians are a true ethnic minority, distinct from the Poles in both language and culture. Originally western Slavs with ethnic links to the Poles, the Kashubians are believed to have settled in the area around 1,500 years ago, although the first records date from the 13th century when the Pomeranian Dukes included ‘Duke of Kashubia’ among their illustrious titles. Estimates as to just how many Kashubians and people of Kashubian descent live in Poland today vary wildly. In Poland’s 2002 census just 5,100 people declared Kashubian nationality, whilst 51,000 declared Kashubian as their native language. Kashubian is a West Slavic language belonging to the Lechitic group of languages of northern Poland, and is thought to be a variation of the original Pomerian language. Kashubian enjoys legal protection in Poland as a minority language, is taught in Polish schools, and can be found on many street signs in the region. One of the things you’ll notice all over Kashubia is the proliferation of folk art, both religious and secular. Of the many folk art disciplines, the Kashubians pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, of which the latter comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and blood shed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and the three shades of blue representing the sky, the lakes and the sea. Ceramics has a centuriesold tradition in Kashubia, and again the designs are simple. Kashubian ceramics are decorated with a number of traditional designs including the Kashubian star, fish scales and local flowers, all embellished with wavy lines and dots. The Kashubians are also great weavers even managing to weave buckets and jugs from pine roots and straw capable of holding water.  The Kashubians are also well known for a style of primitive painting on glass, woodcuts, and wooden sculptures including roadside chapels known as the Passions of Christ. Wood is also carved into elaborate walking sticks, animal heads and musical instruments, including the extraordinary burczybas, similar to a double bass but in the shape of a barrel with a horse hair tail. A bizarre instrument indeed, a burczybas is played by a total of three musicians. The Kashubians are great snuff takers, making it themselves and giving it to visitors as a s ign of joy, good luck and an invitation to meet again. Traditional Kashubian snuffboxes are made from cattle horns that are boiled, flattened, and cut into unique shapes.  The Kashubians believe strongly that all of these these things mark them out as an individual race. Many Kashubians even believe themselves to be the last surviving tribe of the ancient Balts.

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Shopping

Shopping SHOPPING MALLS FASHION HOUSES Set in what looks like a seaside fishing village complete with lighthouse, you’ll find big name brands at knockdown prices. Stores include Adidas, Nike, Reebok, Mexx, Puma, Levis, Big Star, Quicksilver, Timberland, Vero Moda and Converse. The centre also includes cafes and an indoor play area for the kids. Located on the Tri-city ring road just outside Gdańsk, the centre can be reached easily by car or by tram 2 or 6 from Gdańsk main railway station, then change at Gdańsk Chełm, Witosa to the bus 174 which takes you to Przywidzka or Czermińskiego. A taxi will cost about 30zł one-way. Qul. Przywidzka 8, Gdańsk (Szadółki), tel. (+48) 58 320 99 44, www.fashionhouse. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KLIF Klif can be described as the Tri-city’s original shopping mall and continues to offer a choice of some of the highest quality brands in Poland. Covering over 30,000m2 and with car parking for 1,200 cars Klif features over 150 shops with flagship stores Marks & Spencer and H&M, while you’ll also find Benetton, Bizuu, Bohoboco, Calvin Klein Jeans, Deni Cler Milano, Emanuel Berg, Tommy Hilfiger  Tailored, lored, Kalita, Liu Jo, Karen Millen, La Mania, Marciano Marciano Guess, MM Fashion, New Look, Patrizia Pepe, Pennyblack, Petit Bateau, Pinko, Pollini, Max Mara, Mothercare, Sephora, Splendido (Elisabetta Franchi/Cavalli Class) and Stefanel. Right by Gdynia Orłowo train station on the SKM, you can also take bus S or trolleybus 21 and 31 from Sopot. From Gdynia you can get there with bus S, or trolleybus 21, 26 and 31. From Gdansk city centre Neptun taxis charge approximately 20 Euros one-way. QN-6, Al. Zwycięstwa 256, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 664 93 45, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

CENTRUM RIVIERA

GALERIA BAŁTYCKA

GALERIA HANDLOWA MADISON

Gdynia hits back in the battle of the giant shopping malls with the Centrum Riviera weighing in with 70,000 m² of shopping space providing home for 270 outlets including the Auchan hypermarket, Zara, Bershka, Reserved, Cropp, H&M, Rossmann, Sephora, Douglas and Mango and a playground for kids Fun Park. There’s There’s parking for 1,750 vehicles while the Helios cinema has the biggest theatre in the city at close to 3,000m² and can hold up to 1,300 people. Those who notice that there’s not a single big name fast food outlet on the main street will instead be relieved to find they are all present in the food court here.QN-2/3, ul. Kazimierza Górskiego 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 779 07 10, www.centrumriviera. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Gdansk’s biggest and most popular shopping gallery can be found in the the district of Wrzeszcz at the  junction of the main Tri-city road (al. Grunwaldzka) and the main road to the airport (ul. Slowackiego). You’ll find over 200 stores, boutiques, cafes and restaurants set in a state of the art building with headline stores including a three-level H&M, Peek & Cloppenberg,  Tommy Hilfiger and Zara. Carrefour provide the supermarket while GB has the best food court in the city. There’s There’s also on-site parking for 1,100 cars. The mall is opposite Gdansk-Wrzeszcz train station and can also be reached by trams 6, 9, 11 and 12 from Gdansk city centre while Neptun taxis charge approximately 30zl one-way.QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 141, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 521 85 51, www.galeriabaltycka.pl/en. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

 The Madison Shopping Gallery is a unique shopping and leisure centre found close to the main train station in the heart of Gdansk. Shoppers have a choice of over one hundred shops and service outlets, restaurants, cafes and ice-cream parlours as well as currency exchange and underground parking. Brands present include Apple, CCC, Douglas, Ecco, Festus, Intersport, MOLTON, New Balance, New Yorker, Mohito, Orsay, Ryłko, Unisono, Venezia, Wólczanka and Wojas and you’ll find a Piotr i Pawel supermarket on level -1.  There’s also the Calypso gym upstairs, an opticians and a laundry. QB-2, ul. Rajska 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 766 75 30, www.madison.gda.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Piotr i Pawel supermarket open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Calypso Gym open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

THE KASHUBIANS  The Kashubians are a true ethnic minority, distinct from the Poles in both language and culture. Originally western Slavs with ethnic links to the Poles, the Kashubians are believed to have settled in the area around 1,500 years ago, although the first records date from the 13th century when the Pomeranian Dukes included ‘Duke of Kashubia’ among their illustrious titles. Estimates as to just how many Kashubians and people of Kashubian descent live in Poland today vary wildly. In Poland’s 2002 census just 5,100 people declared Kashubian nationality, whilst 51,000 declared Kashubian as their native language. Kashubian is a West Slavic language belonging to the Lechitic group of languages of northern Poland, and is thought to be a variation of the original Pomerian language. Kashubian enjoys legal protection in Poland as a minority language, is taught in Polish schools, and can be found on many street signs in the region. One of the things you’ll notice all over Kashubia is the proliferation of folk art, both religious and secular. Of the many folk art disciplines, the Kashubians pride themselves on their embroidery which uses just five colours: green, red, yellow, black and blue, of which the latter comes in three distinct shades. Green represents the forests, red the fire and blood shed in defence of the homeland, yellow the sun, black the earth and the three shades of blue representing the sky, the lakes and the sea. Ceramics has a centuriesold tradition in Kashubia, and again the designs are simple. Kashubian ceramics are decorated with a number of traditional designs including the Kashubian star, fish scales and local flowers, all embellished with wavy lines and dots. The Kashubians are also great weavers even managing to weave buckets and jugs from pine roots and straw capable of holding water.  The Kashubians are also well known for a style of primitive painting on glass, woodcuts, and wooden sculptures including roadside chapels known as the Passions of Christ. Wood is also carved into elaborate walking sticks, animal heads and musical instruments, including the extraordinary burczybas, similar to a double bass but in the shape of a barrel with a horse hair tail. A bizarre instrument indeed, a burczybas is played by a total of three musicians. The Kashubians are great snuff takers, making it themselves and giving it to visitors as a s ign of joy, good luck and an invitation to meet again. Traditional Kashubian snuffboxes are made from cattle horns that are boiled, flattened, and cut into unique shapes.  The Kashubians believe strongly that all of these these things mark them out as an individual race. Many Kashubians even believe themselves to be the last surviving tribe of the ancient Balts.

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Directory

Hotels

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

INTERNET

APTECUS 4

JAZZ ‘N’ JAVA

A-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2 (Gdańsk Główny Train Station), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 92 13.

Q

Q

APTEKA DYŻURNA Q

N-1, Pl. Kaszubski 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 58 58.

B-4, ul. Tkacka 17/18, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 36 16. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS SOPOT SCHOOL OF POLISH

APTEKA DYŻURNA

L-4, Al. Niepodległości 763, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 32 84, www.ssp.edu.pl. Q

L-4, ul. Kościuszki 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 32 89, www.aptekadyzurna.pl. Q

CONFERENCE FACILITIES SHERATON SOPOT HOTEL  The most modern, well-equipped and largest conference centre in northern Poland. And is if that wasn’t enough to attract you here, the complex is neighboured by the sandy beaches of Sopot on one side and the spas, bars, restaurants and clubs of Poland’s summer capital on the other. Never would the slogan ‘work, rest and play’ have been used so genuinely. If they’d used it. Played host to Russian Prime Minister Vladimir Putin at his landmark meeting with Polish Prime Minister Donald Tusk. QM-4, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 16 70, www.sheraton.pl/sopot.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES GERMANY QH-3, Al. Zwycięstwa 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 65 00, www.danzig.diplo.de.

THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIES  Tailored courses for people wanting to learn the Polish language.QL-2, ul. Kraszewskiego 31/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl/sopot.

PRIVATE PRIVA TE CLINICS C LINICS MEDICOVER Al. Grunwaldzka 472A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Q

THE SWISSMED HOSPITAL G-5, ul. Wileńska 44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 524 15 00, www.swissmed.com.pl. Q

RELIGIOUS SERVICES & GROUPS GOSPEL CHURCH

621 68 52.

Christian church with English language meetings every Sunday at 11:30. QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, www. gospelchurchgdansk.pl.

NORWAY Qul. Śląska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 80

MOSQUE

04, www.amb-norwegia.pl.

Q

FINLANDQN-1, ul. Morska 59, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58

SWEDENQD-5, ul. Chmielna 101/102, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 763 14 69, www.swedenabroad.com.

ul. Abrahama 17a, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 505 17 35 93.

NEW SYNAGOGUE F-4, ul. Partyzantów 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02, www.gdansk.jewish.org.pl.

F-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 102, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 43 65, ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk/en. Q

NATIONAL ARCHIVE B-1, ul. Wałowa 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 74 63, www.gdansk.ap.gov.pl. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Q

Q

@InYourPocket 120 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

HILTON HOTEL A-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 71 00, www.hiltongdansk.pl. 150 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PH 6UFKDCw hhhhh

PODEWILS Q

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS ART OF TRANSLATION L-5, ul. Kościuszki 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 01 32, www.artoftranslation.pl.

tel. (+48) 734 46 04 44, www.trip2gdansk.pl.

ul. Bytowska 4, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 554 70 00, www.dworoliwski.pl. 70 rooms (67 singles, 66 doubles, 1 suite, 2 apartments). PYH6UFKDCw hhhhh Q

C-3, ul. Za Murami 2-10, Gdańsk (Dom Harcerza), tel. (+48) 605 28 24 17, www.gdansk.reformacja.pl.

Q

TRIP2GDANSK 

DWÓR OLIWSKI CITY HOTEL & SPA

PROTESTANT PRAYER HOUSE Q

GENEALOGY

CREAM OF THE CROP

REZYDENTQL-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 58 00, www.hotelrezydent.com.pl. 64 rooms (6 singles, 55 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). PH6UFKD hhhhh

SHERATON SOPOT HOTELQM-4, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 00, www.sheraton. Warszawy pl/sopot.189rooms(182singles,182doubles,7 apartments). PH6UFLKDCw hhhhh

Q Q

UK 

 The most extraordinary hotel in Tricity!

GERLANG

D-4, ul. Szafarnia 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 95 60, www.podewils.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles). PH6KD hhhhh

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 00, www.sofitelgrand-sopot.com. 127 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 30 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UFLKDCw hhhhh

SYMBOL KEY

QUADRILLE CONFERENCE & SPA

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

N-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 351 03 00, www.quadrille.pl. 32 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles, 8 suites). PHUFKDCw

T Child-friendly

H Conferencefacilities

F Fitness centre

Facilitiess for the disabled U Facilitie

K Restaurant

L Guarded parking on site

RADISSON BLU

D Sauna

w Wellness

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking rooms available

Q

C-5, ul. Długi Targ 19/Powroźnicza, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 44, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-gdansk. 134 rooms (18 singles, 108 doubles, 8 apartments). PYH6UFLKDw hhhhh Q

N-1, ul. 10 lutego 11 (Batory), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 75 41 98, www.tlumaczenia.g www.tlumaczenia.gerlang.pl. erlang.pl. Q

SOFITEL GRAND SOPOTQM-4, ul. Powstańców

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

C Swimming pool Y  Tourist card

December 2015 - April 2016 121

Directory

Hotels

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

INTERNET

APTECUS 4

JAZZ ‘N’ JAVA

A-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 2 (Gdańsk Główny Train Station), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 92 13.

Q

Q

APTEKA DYŻURNA Q

N-1, Pl. Kaszubski 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 620 58 58.

B-4, ul. Tkacka 17/18, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 36 16. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS SOPOT SCHOOL OF POLISH

APTEKA DYŻURNA

L-4, Al. Niepodległości 763, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 32 84, www.ssp.edu.pl. Q

L-4, ul. Kościuszki 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 32 89, www.aptekadyzurna.pl. Q

CONFERENCE FACILITIES SHERATON SOPOT HOTEL  The most modern, well-equipped and largest conference centre in northern Poland. And is if that wasn’t enough to attract you here, the complex is neighboured by the sandy beaches of Sopot on one side and the spas, bars, restaurants and clubs of Poland’s summer capital on the other. Never would the slogan ‘work, rest and play’ have been used so genuinely. If they’d used it. Played host to Russian Prime Minister Vladimir Putin at his landmark meeting with Polish Prime Minister Donald Tusk. QM-4, ul. Powstańcow Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 16 70, www.sheraton.pl/sopot.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES GERMANY QH-3, Al. Zwycięstwa 23, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 340 65 00, www.danzig.diplo.de.

THE CENTRE FOR POLISH STUDIES  Tailored courses for people wanting to learn the Polish language.QL-2, ul. Kraszewskiego 31/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl/sopot.

PRIVATE PRIVA TE CLINICS C LINICS MEDICOVER Al. Grunwaldzka 472A, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Q

THE SWISSMED HOSPITAL G-5, ul. Wileńska 44, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 524 15 00, www.swissmed.com.pl. Q

RELIGIOUS SERVICES & GROUPS GOSPEL CHURCH

621 68 52.

Christian church with English language meetings every Sunday at 11:30. QF-4, Al. Grunwaldzka 82 (Manhattan Shopping Mall), Gdańsk, www. gospelchurchgdansk.pl.

NORWAY Qul. Śląska 21, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 80

MOSQUE

04, www.amb-norwegia.pl.

Q

FINLANDQN-1, ul. Morska 59, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58

SWEDENQD-5, ul. Chmielna 101/102, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 763 14 69, www.swedenabroad.com.

ul. Abrahama 17a, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 505 17 35 93.

NEW SYNAGOGUE F-4, ul. Partyzantów 7, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 344 06 02, www.gdansk.jewish.org.pl.

F-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 102, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 43 65, ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk/en. Q

NATIONAL ARCHIVE B-1, ul. Wałowa 5, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 74 63, www.gdansk.ap.gov.pl. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Q

Q

@InYourPocket

HILTON HOTEL A-4, ul. Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 778 71 00, www.hiltongdansk.pl. 150 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles, 4 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PH 6UFKDCw hhhhh

PODEWILS Q

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS ART OF TRANSLATION L-5, ul. Kościuszki 61, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 01 32, www.artoftranslation.pl.

tel. (+48) 734 46 04 44, www.trip2gdansk.pl.

ul. Bytowska 4, Gdańsk (Oliwa), tel. (+48) 58 554 70 00, www.dworoliwski.pl. 70 rooms (67 singles, 66 doubles, 1 suite, 2 apartments). PYH6UFKDCw hhhhh Q

C-3, ul. Za Murami 2-10, Gdańsk (Dom Harcerza), tel. (+48) 605 28 24 17, www.gdansk.reformacja.pl.

Q

TRIP2GDANSK 

DWÓR OLIWSKI CITY HOTEL & SPA

PROTESTANT PRAYER HOUSE Q

GENEALOGY

CREAM OF THE CROP

GERLANG

D-4, ul. Szafarnia 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 95 60, www.podewils.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles). PH6KD hhhhh

T Child-friendly

H Conferencefacilities

F Fitness centre

Facilitiess for the disabled U Facilitie

K Restaurant

L Guarded parking on site

RADISSON BLU

D Sauna

w Wellness

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking rooms available

C-5, ul. Długi Targ 19/Powroźnicza, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 44 44, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-gdansk. 134 rooms (18 singles, 108 doubles, 8 apartments). PYH6UFLKDw hhhhh facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Q

ul. Słowackiego 220 (Matarnia), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 882 10 00, www.hampton.com. 116 rooms (116 singles, 116 doubles). PHUFK hhh

BAYJONN BAY JONN H OTEL

Q

M-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 71 71 71, www.bayjonnhotel.pl. 22 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles, 3 suites). PHUFKD

C Swimming pool Y  Tourist card

December 2015 - April 2016 121

HANZA D-4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 34 27, www.hotelhanza.pl. 60 rooms (17 singles, 36 doubles, 5 suites, 2 Presidential Suites). PH6UFKDw hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL BONUM

HOLLAND HOUSE RESIDENCE

C-2, ul. Sieroca 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 78 10, www.hotelbonum.pl. 32 rooms (7 singles, 21 doubles, 2 triples, 2 apartments). YH6UK hhh

Q

Q

BEST WESTERN PLUS BUSINESS FALTOM HOTEL GDYNIA ul. Morska 362, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 776 55 00, www. faltombusiness.pl. 47 rooms (45 singles, 39 doubles, 2 suites). HUFKDw hhh Q

C-5, ul. Długi Targ 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 77 77, www.hollandhouse.pl. 26 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 26 triples, 1 quad). YHUK

HOTEL SPA FALTOM ul. Grunwaldzka 7, Rumia, tel. (+48) 58 785 81 00, www.hotelfaltom.pl. 113 rooms (111 singles, 111 doubles, 2 apartments). PH6UKDCw hhhh

HOTTON

783 03 00, www.hotelblick.pl. 47 rooms (8 singles, 35 doubles, 4 apartments). HUFKw hhh

Q

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT GDYNIA WATERFRONT

ul. Św. Piotra 8, Gdynia (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 58 760 58 00, www.hotton.pl. 62 rooms (4 singles, 52 doubles, 3 suites, 3 apartments). HUKD hhh

O-1, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 00, www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/gdncycourtyard-gdynia-waterfront. 200 rooms (199 singles, 199 doubles, 1 suite). PHUFK hhhh

Q

FAHRENHEIT

Q

GDAŃSK QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58

Q

Hotel Gdańsk , Szafarnia Street 9 by the yacht marina tel. +48 58 300 17 17, [email protected]

MERA SPA HOTEL M-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 00, www.meraspahotel.pl. 145 rooms (124 singles, 140 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6U KDCw hhhh

GOLDEN TULIP GDANSK RESIDENCE

MERCURE GDAŃSK STARE MIASTO

F-1, ul. Piastowska 160, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 724 01 22 27, www.goldentulipgdanskresidence.com. 195 rooms (195 apartments). HKDCw

Q

C-2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 321 00 00, www.mercure.com. 281 rooms (18 singles, 257 doubles, 6 apartments). PYH6UFK hhhh

GRAND CRU

MERCURE GDYNIA CENTRUM

Q

D-3, ul. Rycerska 11-12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 00, www.hotelgrandcru.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 50 doubles). PH6UFKD hhhh

Q

HAFFNER

MOLO RESIDENCE

M-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 99 99, www.hotelhaffner.pl. 106 rooms (100 singles, 92 doubles, 6 apartments). PTYHUFLK DCw hhhh

Q

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

w w w . h o t e l g d a n s k . p l

KURACYJNY O-6, Al. Zwycięstwa 255, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 78 23, www.hotelkuracyjny.pl. 27 rooms (6 singles, 20 doubles, 1 apartment). H6UKDw hhh

Q

           

D-3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11, www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 30 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 6 triples, 4 apartments). H6UK hhh

Q

Q

XVIIIth century Granary, XXIst century Yachting part          

KRÓLEWSKI

Q

D-3, ul. Grodzka 19, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 324 74 00, www.fahrenheit.pl. 23 rooms (23 singles, 23 doubles, 3 triples). PHUK hhh

Te best boutique hotel in ricity 

Q

BLICK QN-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58

300 17 17, www.hotelgdansk.pl. 96 rooms (10 singles, 53 doubles, 22 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PYH6UKDw hhhh

122 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

SYMBOL KEY

HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK AIRPORT

Q

Ul. Stągiewna 2/3, 80-750 Gdańsk  Tel. +48 58 710 01 01, Fax. +48 58 718 65 17 www.kobza.pl, [email protected]

Warszawy 12/14, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 520 60 00, www.sofitelgrand-sopot.com. 127 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 30 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UFLKDCw hhhhh

Q

C-3, ul. Tobiasza 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 03 20, www.admiralhotelgdansk.pl. 44 rooms (10 singles, 33 doubles, 1 suite). PYHUKD hhhh

           

SOFITEL GRAND SOPOTQM-4, ul. Powstańców

Hotels ADMIRAŁ

                    

Warszawy 10, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 767 10 00, www.sheraton. Warszawy pl/sopot.189rooms(182singles,182doubles,7 apartments). PH6UFLKDCw hhhhh

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

UPMARKET

+48 58 743 07 00; [email protected]

SHERATON SOPOT HOTELQM-4, ul. Powstańcow

N-6, ul. Folwarczna 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 351 03 00, www.quadrille.pl. 32 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles, 8 suites). PHUFKDCw

Hotels

Jerzego Waszyngtona 19; Gdynia

tel. (+48) 58 555 58 00, www.hotelrezydent.com.pl. 64 rooms (6 singles, 55 doubles, 2 suites, 1 apartment). PH6UFKD hhhhh

QUADRILLE CONFERENCE & SPA Q

Q

N-1, ul. 10 lutego 11 (Batory), Gdynia, tel. (+48) 501 75 41 98, www.tlumaczenia.g www.tlumaczenia.gerlang.pl. erlang.pl. Q

120 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

NEW HOTEL IN GDYNIA

REZYDENTQL-4, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Sopot,

Q Q

UK 

 The most extraordinary hotel in Tricity!

O-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 666 30 40, www.mercure.com. 294 rooms (130 singles, 273 doubles, 8 suites). H6UKDC hhh M-4, ul. Pułaskiego 6A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 11 00, www.molohotel.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). P facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

For more information and reservation please visit scandichotels.com, e-mail [email protected] or call us +48 58 300 60 00.

December 2015 - April 2016 123

Hotels

Hotels UPMARKET

HAMPTON BY HILTON GDANSK AIRPORT

ADMIRAŁ Q

ul. Słowackiego 220 (Matarnia), Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 882 10 00, www.hampton.com. 116 rooms (116 singles, 116 doubles). PHUFK hhh

BAYJONN BAY JONN H OTEL

Q

Q

C-3, ul. Tobiasza 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 03 20, www.admiralhotelgdansk.pl. 44 rooms (10 singles, 33 doubles, 1 suite). PYHUKD hhhh M-4, ul. Powstańców Warszawy 7, Sopot, tel. (+48) 730 71 71 71, www.bayjonnhotel.pl. 22 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles, 3 suites). PHUFKD Q

HOLLAND HOUSE RESIDENCE

C-2, ul. Sieroca 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 304 78 10, www.hotelbonum.pl. 32 rooms (7 singles, 21 doubles, 2 triples, 2 apartments). YH6UK hhh

Q

BEST WESTERN PLUS BUSINESS FALTOM HOTEL GDYNIA ul. Morska 362, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 776 55 00, www. faltombusiness.pl. 47 rooms (45 singles, 39 doubles, 2 suites). HUFKDw hhh Q

Jerzego Waszyngtona 19; Gdynia +48 58 743 07 00; [email protected]

                    

HOTEL SPA FALTOM ul. Grunwaldzka 7, Rumia, tel. (+48) 58 785 81 00, www.hotelfaltom.pl. 113 rooms (111 singles, 111 doubles, 2 apartments). PH6UKDCw hhhh

HOTTON Q

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT GDYNIA WATERFRONT

Q

FAHRENHEIT

Q

Hotel Gdańsk , Szafarnia Street 9 by the yacht marina tel. +48 58 300 17 17, [email protected]

D-3, ul. Ołowianka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 11 11, www.hotelkrolewski.pl. 30 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 6 triples, 4 apartments). H6UK hhh

KURACYJNY

Q

O-6, Al. Zwycięstwa 255, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 78 23, www.hotelkuracyjny.pl. 27 rooms (6 singles, 20 doubles, 1 apartment). H6UKDw hhh

GDAŃSK QD-4, ul. Szafarnia 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58

Q

MERA SPA HOTEL M-6, ul. Bitwy Pod Płowcami 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 766 60 00, www.meraspahotel.pl. 145 rooms (124 singles, 140 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6U KDCw hhhh

GOLDEN TULIP GDANSK RESIDENCE

MERCURE GDAŃSK STARE MIASTO

F-1, ul. Piastowska 160, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 724 01 22 27, www.goldentulipgdanskresidence.com. 195 rooms (195 apartments). HKDCw

Q

C-2, ul. Heweliusza 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 321 00 00, www.mercure.com. 281 rooms (18 singles, 257 doubles, 6 apartments). PYH6UFK hhhh

GRAND CRU

MERCURE GDYNIA CENTRUM

Q

D-3, ul. Rycerska 11-12, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 772 73 00, www.hotelgrandcru.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 50 doubles). PH6UFKD hhhh

Q

HAFFNER

MOLO RESIDENCE

M-3, ul. Haffnera 59, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 99 99, www.hotelhaffner.pl. 106 rooms (100 singles, 92 doubles, 6 apartments). PTYHUFLK DCw hhhh

Q

122 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

w w w . h o t e l g d a n s k . p l

KRÓLEWSKI

O-1, ul. Jerzego Waszyngtona 19, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 743 07 00, www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/gdncycourtyard-gdynia-waterfront. 200 rooms (199 singles, 199 doubles, 1 suite). PHUFK hhhh

Q

XVIIIth century Granary, XXIst century Yachting part                      

ul. Św. Piotra 8, Gdynia (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 58 760 58 00, www.hotton.pl. 62 rooms (4 singles, 52 doubles, 3 suites, 3 apartments). HUKD hhh

Q

D-3, ul. Grodzka 19, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 324 74 00, www.fahrenheit.pl. 23 rooms (23 singles, 23 doubles, 3 triples). PHUK hhh

Te best boutique hotel in ricity 

Q

783 03 00, www.hotelblick.pl. 47 rooms (8 singles, 35 doubles, 4 apartments). HUFKw hhh

Q

Ul. Stągiewna 2/3, 80-750 Gdańsk  Tel. +48 58 710 01 01, Fax. +48 58 718 65 17 www.kobza.pl, [email protected]

C-5, ul. Długi Targ 33/34, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 325 77 77, www.hollandhouse.pl. 26 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 26 triples, 1 quad). YHUK

BLICK QN-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58

300 17 17, www.hotelgdansk.pl. 96 rooms (10 singles, 53 doubles, 22 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PYH6UKDw hhhh

           

D-4, ul. Tokarska 6, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 34 27, www.hotelhanza.pl. 60 rooms (17 singles, 36 doubles, 5 suites, 2 Presidential Suites). PH6UFKDw hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL BONUM Q

NEW HOTEL IN GDYNIA

HANZA

O-1, ul. Armii Krajowej 22, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 666 30 40, www.mercure.com. 294 rooms (130 singles, 273 doubles, 8 suites). H6UKDC hhh M-4, ul. Pułaskiego 6A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 355 11 00, www.molohotel.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). P

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

For more information and reservation please visit scandichotels.com, e-mail [email protected] or call us +48 58 300 60 00.

December 2015 - April 2016 123

Hotels

Hotels MID-RANGE ANTARES ul. Komandorska 59, Gdynia (Grabówek), tel. (+48) 58 623 36 39, www.hotelantares.pl. 55 rooms (15 singles, 40 doubles, 3 triples). YHUF hh Q

ARTUS C-4, ul. Piwna 36-39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 96 00, www.artushotel.com.pl. 50 rooms (48 singles, 36 doubles, 2 apartments). HUKDw hh Q

BEST WESTERN VILLA AQUA HOTEL M-2, ul. Zamkowa Góra 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 522 44 00, www.villaaqua.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 18 doubles). PYH6UFK hhh Q

BIAŁA LILIA D-5, ul. Spichrzowa 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 74, www.bialalilia.pl. 15 rooms (1 single, 13 doubles, 1 suite). Y Q

DOM AKTORA D-3, ul. Straganiarska 55/56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 61 93, www.domaktora.pl. 13 rooms (2 singles, 1 double, 11 apartments). Q

DOM MUZYKA K-3, ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 06 00, www.dommuzyka.pl. 87 rooms (36 singles, 50 doubles, 1 apartment). H6UK Q

NADMORSKI

RÓŻANY GAJ

O-3, ul. Ejsmonda 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 77 77, www.nadmorski.pl. 90 rooms (82 singles, 82 doubles, 4 triples, 4 apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhh

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NOVOTEL CENTRUM

SCANDIC GDAŃSK 

D-5, ul. Pszenna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 27 50, www.accorhotels.com. 158 rooms (158 singles, 158 doubles). PH6UFK hhh

Q

Q

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NOVOTEL GDAŃSK MARINA

O-2, ul. Korzeniowskiego 19d, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 719 55 55, www.rozanygaj.pl. 38 rooms (32 singles, 32 doubles, 3 triples, 3 suites). PH6UKDC hhh B-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 60 00, www.scandichotels.com. 143 rooms (60 singles, 64 doubles, 18 suites). PYH6UFKDXw hhhh

DOM SCHUMANNÓW C-5, ul. Długa 45, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 52 72, www.domschumannow.pl. 9 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 1 apartment). YH6 Q

FOCUS ul. Elbląska 85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 350 08 01, www.focushotels.pl. 99 rooms (99 singles, 99 doubles, 3 triples). PYH6UFKD hhh Q

M-6, ul. Jelitkowska 20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 558 91 00, www.accorhotels.com. 176 rooms (160 singles, 135 doubles, 16 suites). H6UFLKDC hhh

VILLA SEDAN

PURO GDAŃSK 

WILLA LUBICZ

Q

D-5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 00, www.purohotel.pl. 93 rooms (92 singles, 90 doubles, 1 suite). PH6UFKw hhhh

Q

M-4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 20 73, www.pensjonat-irena.com. 15 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). 6K

QUBUS HOTEL

ZHONG HUA

C-6, ul. Chmielna 47/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 752 21 00, www.qubushotel.com. 110 rooms (36 singles, 72 doubles, 2 apartments). PYH6UFKD hhhh

Q

KAMIENICA GOLDWASSERQD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www. goldwasser.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments). 6K

Q

Q

124 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

M-4, ul. Pułaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09 80, www.sedan.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 3 suites, 4 apartments). PYH6UK hh

Feel the atmosphere of the thirties and spend your free time by the sea

@InYourPocket

Q

IRENA Q

O-6, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. 16 rooms (15 singles, 12 doubles, 1 suite). YHUKD hhh M-4, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 20 20, www.hotelchinski.pl. 49 rooms (37 singles, 37 doubles, 10 apartments, 2 Mandaryn Suites). 6UK hhh

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

KAMIENICA GOTYK  C-4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 85 67, www.gotykhouse.eu. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). Q

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

 

               

December 2015 - April 2016 125

Hotels

Hotels MID-RANGE ANTARES ul. Komandorska 59, Gdynia (Grabówek), tel. (+48) 58 623 36 39, www.hotelantares.pl. 55 rooms (15 singles, 40 doubles, 3 triples). YHUF hh Q

ARTUS C-4, ul. Piwna 36-39, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 320 96 00, www.artushotel.com.pl. 50 rooms (48 singles, 36 doubles, 2 apartments). HUKDw hh Q

BEST WESTERN VILLA AQUA HOTEL M-2, ul. Zamkowa Góra 35, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 522 44 00, www.villaaqua.pl. 50 rooms (50 singles, 18 doubles). PYH6UFK hhh Q

BIAŁA LILIA D-5, ul. Spichrzowa 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 70 74, www.bialalilia.pl. 15 rooms (1 single, 13 doubles, 1 suite). Y Q

DOM AKTORA D-3, ul. Straganiarska 55/56, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 61 93, www.domaktora.pl. 13 rooms (2 singles, 1 double, 11 apartments). Q

DOM MUZYKA K-3, ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 326 06 00, www.dommuzyka.pl. 87 rooms (36 singles, 50 doubles, 1 apartment). H6UK Q

NADMORSKI

RÓŻANY GAJ

O-3, ul. Ejsmonda 2, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 667 77 77, www.nadmorski.pl. 90 rooms (82 singles, 82 doubles, 4 triples, 4 apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhh

Q

NOVOTEL CENTRUM

SCANDIC GDAŃSK 

D-5, ul. Pszenna 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 27 50, www.accorhotels.com. 158 rooms (158 singles, 158 doubles). PH6UFK hhh

Q

Q

Q

NOVOTEL GDAŃSK MARINA

O-2, ul. Korzeniowskiego 19d, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 719 55 55, www.rozanygaj.pl. 38 rooms (32 singles, 32 doubles, 3 triples, 3 suites). PH6UKDC hhh B-2, ul. Podwale Grodzkie 9, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 60 00, www.scandichotels.com. 143 rooms (60 singles, 64 doubles, 18 suites). PYH6UFKDXw hhhh

DOM SCHUMANNÓW C-5, ul. Długa 45, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 52 72, www.domschumannow.pl. 9 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 1 apartment). YH6 Q

FOCUS ul. Elbląska 85, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 350 08 01, www.focushotels.pl. 99 rooms (99 singles, 99 doubles, 3 triples). PYH6UFKD hhh Q

M-6, ul. Jelitkowska 20, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 558 91 00, www.accorhotels.com. 176 rooms (160 singles, 135 doubles, 16 suites). H6UFLKDC hhh

VILLA SEDAN

PURO GDAŃSK 

WILLA LUBICZ

Q

D-5, ul. Stągiewna 26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 563 50 00, www.purohotel.pl. 93 rooms (92 singles, 90 doubles, 1 suite). PH6UFKw hhhh

Q

M-4, ul. Chopina 36, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 20 73, www.pensjonat-irena.com. 15 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). 6K

QUBUS HOTEL

ZHONG HUA

C-6, ul. Chmielna 47/52, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 752 21 00, www.qubushotel.com. 110 rooms (36 singles, 72 doubles, 2 apartments). PYH6UFKD hhhh

Q

KAMIENICA GOLDWASSERQD-4, ul. Długie Pobrzeże 22, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 88 78, www. goldwasser.pl. 7 rooms (7 apartments). 6K

Q

Q

M-4, ul. Pułaskiego 18-20, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 09 80, www.sedan.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 3 suites, 4 apartments). PYH6UK hh

@InYourPocket

Q

IRENA Q

O-6, ul. Orłowska 43, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 668 47 40, www.willalubicz.pl. 16 rooms (15 singles, 12 doubles, 1 suite). YHUKD hhh M-4, Al. Wojska Polskiego 1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 550 20 20, www.hotelchinski.pl. 49 rooms (37 singles, 37 doubles, 10 apartments, 2 Mandaryn Suites). 6UK hhh

124 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Feel the atmosphere of the thirties and spend your free time by the sea

KAMIENICA GOTYK  C-4, ul. Mariacka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 85 67, www.gotykhouse.eu. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples). Q

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

 

               

December 2015 - April 2016 125

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

Hotels

Hotels BUDGET

KOBZA HAUS D-5, ul. Stągiewna 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 01 01, www.kobza.pl. 22 rooms (2 singles, 18 doubles, 2 apartments). PH Q

LALALA ART HOTEL L-5, ul. Rzemieślnicza 42, Sopot, tel. (+48) 792 84 02 93, www.lalala.lu. 8 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles). H6 Q

MARINA CLUB HOTEL D-1, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 733 60 01, www.marinaclubhotel.pl. 34 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 26 apartments). P6K hhh Q

DOM MUZYKA - A HOTEL WITH  AN UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE ATMOSPHERE 7 minutes walk from Gdansk Old Town

OLIWSKI F-1, ul. Piastowska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 66 10, www.hoteloliwski.pl. 52 rooms (8 singles, 39 doubles, 5 triples). PYH6U hhh Q

SMART HOTEL GARNIZON E-4, ul. Słowackiego 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 760 76 80, www.hotelsmart.pl. 100 rooms (94 singles, 93 doubles, 6 suites). H6UK hh Q

ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Tel. +48 58 326 06 00  www.dommuzyka  www .dommuzyka.pl .pl

HOSTELS GRAND HOSTELQB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 06 13 50, www.grandhostel.pl. 13 rooms (9 doubles, 3 triples, 26 dorm beds). P6

SZYDŁOWSKI F-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 114, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 345 70 40, www.szydlowski.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 23 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UKD hhh Q

ABAK I MAC�TUR H-5, ul. Beethovena 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 04 40, www.abak.gda.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 4 triples). L Q

GRYFQI-3, ul. Jana z Kolna 22/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 01 30, www.owgryf.pl. 66 rooms (41 singles, 64 doubles, 24 triples). H6UK NEPTUN N-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 712 13 12, www.rewita.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 apartment). Y6UFKD hhh Q

PENSION EDEN M-4, ul. Kordeckiego 4/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 15 03, www.hotel-eden.pl. 26 rooms (3 singles, 11 doubles, 8 triples, 2 quads, 2 suites). H6 hh Q

VILLA AKME I-5, ul. Drwęcka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 40 21, www.akme.gda.pl. 20 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 6 triples). HKD Q

 APARTMENT  AP ARTMENTS S AL MARE L-5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 49, Sopot, tel. (+48) 607 67 04 46, www.almare-sopot.pl. 2 rooms (2 apartments). UFLD Q

VILLA ADMIRAŁ N-1, ul. 10-go Lutego 29a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 20 38, www.admiralvilla.com.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 suite). Y6 Q

APARTAMENTY SOPOT L-6, ul. Władysława Łokietka 51, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). FD Q

VILLA ANTONINA

320 86 01, www.high5hostel.pl. 5 rooms (1 double, 1 quad, 32 dorm beds).

L-3, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 00 09, www.villaantonina.pl. 12 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 2 apartments). H6K

HOSTEL UNIVERSUSQB-4, ul. Podgarbary

VILLA EVA

B/C-4/5, tel. (+48) 503 05 71 42, rent-apartments-ingdansk.pl. 5 rooms (5 apartments). T6N

F-4, ul. Batorego 28b, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 67 85, www.villaeva.pl. 14 rooms (13 singles, 13 doubles, 1 apartment). YH6UK

Q

HIGH 5QD-3, ul. Grodzka 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58

10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 81 14, www.hostel. universus.pl. 8 rooms (1 single, 3 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 12 dorm beds). 6

MIDTOWN HOSTELQB-3, Podwale Staromiejskie 105/106 lok.1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 50 57, www. hostel.gdansk.pl. 8 rooms (6 singles, 6 doubles, 1 quad, 1 six-person room).

OCH! HOSTELQN-2, ul. Świętojańska 85, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 31 47 37, www.ochhostel.pl. 8 rooms (2 singles, 3 doubles, 2 apartments, 16 dorm beds). 6

SISTERS LODGE HOSTELQM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 59/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 533 40 34, www. sisterslodge.com. 6 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple, 1 eight-person room). 126 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Q

GDANSK APARTMENTS Q

Q

JOVI APARTMENTS

VILLA GDYNIA

L-5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 19C (2nd floor), Sopot, tel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.joviapartments.com. 4 rooms (4 apartments). P6FL

O-4, ul. Kopernika 57, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 718 93 76, www.hotelgdynia.pl. 16 rooms (16 singles, 13 doubles, 3 triples).

Q

Q

WILLA MAREA M-4, ul. Chrobrego 38 (entrance from ul. Parkowa 40), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 84 80, www.marea.sopot.pl. 18 rooms (15 singles, 15 doubles, 3 suites). HU Q

WOLNE MIASTO B-4, ul. Św. Ducha 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 22 55, www.hotelwm.pl. 62 rooms (17 singles, 41 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). YHULK hhh Q

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

A P  B  A  S   R  O  O T  U P  T  I    O M Q E  T  N  U T  E   S 

MAŁA ANGLIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS M-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 94, Sopot, tel. (+48) 504 95 69 24, www.malaanglia.pl. 5 rooms (5 apartments). 6C

ROYAL APARTMENTS L-5, ul. 3 Maja 67-69, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 50 06 35, www.royal-apartments.pl. 50 rooms (50 apartments). 6 Q

SEA TOWERS

t  e  l w /  f M wa x w+a  .m 4 ³ a  8 a  l  5 a a  8 n a n  g -7 g  l  6 l i  a  5 i   .p - a  l  0 a 1 p - a r  5  e 7 r  c  , t m  e p  G  c  S e  ja M n t  @ + s m4 a  8 f  l  5 o a  0 r a 4 n  g - r  l  9 e i  a  5 n  .p  6 t  l  9  2 4

O-1, ul. Hryniewickiego 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl. 30 rooms (30 apartments). P Q

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

December 2015 - April 2016 127

Hotels

Hotels BUDGET

KOBZA HAUS D-5, ul. Stągiewna 2/3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 01 01, www.kobza.pl. 22 rooms (2 singles, 18 doubles, 2 apartments). PH Q

LALALA ART HOTEL L-5, ul. Rzemieślnicza 42, Sopot, tel. (+48) 792 84 02 93, www.lalala.lu. 8 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles). H6 Q

MARINA CLUB HOTEL D-1, ul. Szafarnia 10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 733 60 01, www.marinaclubhotel.pl. 34 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 26 apartments). P6K hhh Q

DOM MUZYKA - A HOTEL WITH  AN UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE ATMOSPHERE 7 minutes walk from Gdansk Old Town

OLIWSKI F-1, ul. Piastowska 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 761 66 10, www.hoteloliwski.pl. 52 rooms (8 singles, 39 doubles, 5 triples). PYH6U hhh Q

SMART HOTEL GARNIZON E-4, ul. Słowackiego 3, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 760 76 80, www.hotelsmart.pl. 100 rooms (94 singles, 93 doubles, 6 suites). H6UK hh Q

ul. Łąkowa 1-2, Tel. +48 58 326 06 00  www.dommuzyka  www .dommuzyka.pl .pl

HOSTELS GRAND HOSTELQB-4, ul. Kołodziejska 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 666 06 13 50, www.grandhostel.pl. 13 rooms (9 doubles, 3 triples, 26 dorm beds). P6

SZYDŁOWSKI F-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 114, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 345 70 40, www.szydlowski.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 23 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UKD hhh Q

ABAK I MAC�TUR H-5, ul. Beethovena 8, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 322 04 40, www.abak.gda.pl. 22 rooms (3 singles, 15 doubles, 4 triples). L Q

GRYFQI-3, ul. Jana z Kolna 22/26, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 300 01 30, www.owgryf.pl. 66 rooms (41 singles, 64 doubles, 24 triples). H6UK NEPTUN N-1, ul. Jana z Kolna 8, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 712 13 12, www.rewita.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 apartment). Y6UFKD hhh Q

PENSION EDEN M-4, ul. Kordeckiego 4/6, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 551 15 03, www.hotel-eden.pl. 26 rooms (3 singles, 11 doubles, 8 triples, 2 quads, 2 suites). H6 hh Q

VILLA AKME I-5, ul. Drwęcka 1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 302 40 21, www.akme.gda.pl. 20 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 6 triples). HKD Q

 APARTMENT  AP ARTMENTS S AL MARE L-5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 49, Sopot, tel. (+48) 607 67 04 46, www.almare-sopot.pl. 2 rooms (2 apartments). UFLD Q

VILLA ADMIRAŁ N-1, ul. 10-go Lutego 29a, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 661 20 38, www.admiralvilla.com.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 suite). Y6 Q

APARTAMENTY SOPOT L-6, ul. Władysława Łokietka 51, Sopot, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments). FD Q

VILLA ANTONINA

320 86 01, www.high5hostel.pl. 5 rooms (1 double, 1 quad, 32 dorm beds).

L-3, ul. Obrońców Westerplatte 36 A, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 710 00 09, www.villaantonina.pl. 12 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 2 apartments). H6K

HOSTEL UNIVERSUSQB-4, ul. Podgarbary

VILLA EVA

B/C-4/5, tel. (+48) 503 05 71 42, rent-apartments-ingdansk.pl. 5 rooms (5 apartments). T6N

F-4, ul. Batorego 28b, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 341 67 85, www.villaeva.pl. 14 rooms (13 singles, 13 doubles, 1 apartment). YH6UK

Q

HIGH 5QD-3, ul. Grodzka 16, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58

10, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 301 81 14, www.hostel. universus.pl. 8 rooms (1 single, 3 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 12 dorm beds). 6

MIDTOWN HOSTELQB-3, Podwale Staromiejskie 105/106 lok.1, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 710 50 57, www. hostel.gdansk.pl. 8 rooms (6 singles, 6 doubles, 1 quad, 1 six-person room).

OCH! HOSTELQN-2, ul. Świętojańska 85, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 500 31 47 37, www.ochhostel.pl. 8 rooms (2 singles, 3 doubles, 2 apartments, 16 dorm beds). 6

SISTERS LODGE HOSTELQM-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 59/1, Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 533 40 34, www. sisterslodge.com. 6 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple, 1 eight-person room). 126 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Q

GDANSK APARTMENTS Q

Q

JOVI APARTMENTS

VILLA GDYNIA

L-5, ul. Władysława Łokietka 19C (2nd floor), Sopot, tel. (+48) 797 60 11 00, www.joviapartments.com. 4 rooms (4 apartments). P6FL

O-4, ul. Kopernika 57, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 58 718 93 76, www.hotelgdynia.pl. 16 rooms (16 singles, 13 doubles, 3 triples).

Q

Q

WILLA MAREA M-4, ul. Chrobrego 38 (entrance from ul. Parkowa 40), Sopot, tel. (+48) 58 555 84 80, www.marea.sopot.pl. 18 rooms (15 singles, 15 doubles, 3 suites). HU Q

WOLNE MIASTO B-4, ul. Św. Ducha 2, Gdańsk, tel. (+48) 58 305 22 55, www.hotelwm.pl. 62 rooms (17 singles, 41 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). YHULK hhh Q

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

A P  B  A  S   R  O  O T  U P  T  I    O M Q E  T  N  U T  E   S 

MAŁA ANGLIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS M-5, ul. Grunwaldzka 94, Sopot, tel. (+48) 504 95 69 24, www.malaanglia.pl. 5 rooms (5 apartments). 6C

ROYAL APARTMENTS L-5, ul. 3 Maja 67-69, Sopot, tel. (+48) 790 50 06 35, www.royal-apartments.pl. 50 rooms (50 apartments). 6 Q

SEA TOWERS

t  e  l w /  f M wa x w+a  .m 4 ³ a  8 a  l  5 a a  8 n a n  g -7 g  l  6 l i  a  5 i   .p - a  l  0 a 1 p - a r  5  e 7 r  c  , t m  e p  G  c  S e  ja M n t  @ + s m4 a  8 f  l  5 o a  0 r a 4 n  g - r  l  9 e i  a  5 n  .p  6 t  l  9  2 4

O-1, ul. Hryniewickiego 6, Gdynia, tel. (+48) 608 50 23 33, www.seatowers24.pl. 30 rooms (30 apartments). P Q

December 2015 - April 2016 127

facebook.com/GdanskInYourPocket

European Solidarity Centre 

Madison 

Scandic 

Mercure  Gdańsk  Stare  Miasto 

Bonum 

Grand Cru  Farenheit  Hilton 

Midtown 

   o    g      e      i      k    s     w    a      ł    s Dom Harcerza      u    g      o      B Shakespeare  Theatre 

Admirał 

Gdansk 

Radisson 

Puro  Kobza Haus 

GdaÒsk  årÛdmieúcie 

Qubus 

European Solidarity Centre 

Madison 

Scandic 

Mercure  Gdańsk  Stare  Miasto 

Bonum 

Grand Cru  Farenheit  Hilton 

Midtown 

Admirał 

   o    g      e      i      k    s     w    a      ł    s Dom Harcerza      u    g      o      B Shakespeare  Theatre 

Gdansk 

Radisson 

Puro  Kobza Haus 

GdaÒsk  årÛdmieúcie 

Qubus 

Lighthouse  Museum  Polferries  Terminal 

Wisłoujœcie  Wisłoujœcie  Fortess  Ferry 

Galeria  Bałtycka 

   k  a    u  s    t    r   a    K

Lighthouse  Museum  Polferries  Terminal 

Wisłoujœcie  Wisłoujœcie  Fortess  Ferry 

Galeria  Bałtycka 

   k  a    u  s    t    r   a    K

   l   e    t    i    f   o    S

  a   u   q    A   a    l    l    i    V

  n   n   o    j   y   a    B

  a   r   e    M

  e   c   n   e    d   o   i    l   o  s   e    M    R

  a   n   e   r    A   o   g   r    E

  a    l   a    l

   a   a    z    c   i    n   l    L    ś    e   i     m    e    z    R

    t     n    o    r      f    r    e       t    a      W

   d   r   a   y    t   r   u   o    C

   k   c    i    l    B

           i            k     z     s             iu     c            ś     o            K     r     e          w            k            S

   a   j    o      w   i   c       œ      M

   ł   a   r    i   m    d    A   a    l    i    V

    o      y       g       z     e      s      r     n       i     w     a      a      z       Z       C 

   j   a    G   y   n   a    ż    ó    R

  a    i   n   y    d    G   a    l    i    V

  e   r   u   c   r   e    M

  y   n    j   y   c   a   r   u    K

  a   n   n    A   a    l    i    W   e    l    i   r    d   a   u    Q

   l   e    t    i    f   o    S

  a   u   q    A   a    l    l    i    V

  n   n   o    j   y   a    B

  a   r   e    M

  e   c   n   e    d   o   i    l   o  s   e    M    R

  a   n   e   r    A   o   g   r    E

  a    l   a    l

   a   a    z    c   i    n   l    L    ś    e   i     m    e    z    R

    t     n    o    r      f    r    e       t    a      W

   d   r   a   y    t   r   u   o    C

   k   c    i    l    B

           i            k     z     s             iu     c            ś     o            K     r     e          w            k            S

   a   j    o      w   i   c       œ      M

   ł   a   r    i   m    d    A   a    l    i    V

    o      y       g       z     e      s      r     n       i     w     a      a      z       Z       C 

   j   a    G   y   n   a    ż    ó    R

  a    i   n   y    d    G   a    l    i    V

  e   r   u   c   r   e    M

  y   n    j   y   c   a   r   u    K

  a   n   n    A   a    l    i    W   e    l    i   r    d   a   u    Q

RUMIA

GDYNIA

SOPOT

OLIWA

GDAŃSK 

 

STARE MIASTO

   i  n   e  c   a    i   c  z   n   z   y    S   d   G

Gdańsk centrum Port Północny Westerplatte

ELBLĄG WARSZAWA

CEDRY MAŁE

RUMIA

GDYNIA

SOPOT

OLIWA

GDAŃSK 

 

STARE MIASTO

   i  n   e  c   a    i   c  z   n   z   y    S   d   G

Gdańsk centrum Port Północny Westerplatte

ELBLĄG WARSZAWA

Street Register SOPOT

(PG. 132-133)

1 Maja L-4 23 Marca L-3 3 Maja L/M-5 Abrahama L-4 Andersa, gen. L-4 Architektów M-6 Armii Krajowej L-3/5 Bitwy pod Płowcam M-5/6 Boczna L-5 Bohaterów Monte Cassino L/M-4 Broniewskiego L-4 Budzysza M-3 Ceynowy M-3 Chopina L/M-4 Dębowa L-5 Drzymały M-5 Fiszera, gen. M-4 Głowackiego L-5/6 Goyki L/M-3 Grottgera L-4 Grunwaldzka M-4/5 Haffnera M-2/4 Helska M-3 Jagiełły L-4 Jana Kazimierza L-5 Jana z Kolna L-5 Joselewicza L/M-5 Junaków L-2 Karlikowska M-5 Kaszubska L-2 KazimierzaWielkiego M4/5 Kilińskiego M-5 Kochanowskiego L-5 Konopnickiej L-4 Konstytuc ji 3 Maja, pl. L-4 Kopernika L-5 Kordeckiego M-4 Kościuszki L 4/5 Krasickiego L-4 Kraszewskiego L-2 Książąt Pomorskich M-5 Księżycowa L-3 Kubacza, dr. L-4 Kujawska L-2 Kusocińskiego,, pl. Kusocińskiego M-3 Lipowa L-5  Łowicka L-2  Łużycka L-2 Malczewskiego L-2/3

GDYNIA 10 Lutego 3 Maja Abrahama Armii Krajowej Asnyka Batorego Bema gen. Białostocka Dąbrowskiegoo gen. Dąbrowskieg Dworcowa Focha Fredry Grunwaldzkipl. Hala Harcerska Hetmańska Hryniewickiego Chopina I Armii WP Jana z Kolna Kasprowicza Kaszubski pl. Konstytucjipl. Kopernika Kościelna Krasickiego Krośnieńska Legionów Lotników Maczka gen. Matejki Mickiewicza Mokwy Moniuszki Morska Necla

Małopolska L-2 Mamuszki, al. M-3/4 Marynarzy L-4 Mazowiecka L-2 Mickiewicza L-4 Mieszka I M4/5 Mokwy M-4 Moniuszki L-4 Morska M-4 Na Wydmach M-5 Niepodległości,al. L/M-2/6 Obodrzyców L-2 Obrońców Westerplatte L-3/4 Okrężna L-3 Okrzei M-5 Paderewskiego L-4 Parkowa M-4/5 Piastów M-4 Plater M-5 Podgórna L-2/3 Pogodna M-6 Polna L/M-5 Poniatowskiego, Poniatowskie go, ks. M-5 PowstańcówWarszawy M-3/4 Przemysłowa L-5/6 Pułaskiego M-4 Racławicka L-5/6 Reja L-5 Sępia M-2 Sienkiewicza L-2 Sikorskiego,gen. L-4 Skarpowa L/M-5 Skłodowskiej-Curie L-5 Sobieskiego M-4/5 Sportowa L-6 Strzelecka L-3/4  Traugutta M-5 Wejherowska L-2/3 Winieckiego M-3/4 Władysława IV L-5 Władysława Łokietka L-5/6 Wojska Polskiego, al. M-5/6 Wybickiego L-4 Zacisze L-3 Zamenhofa L-4 Zamkowa Góra M-2 Zdrój św. Wojciech M-6 Zdrojowy, pl. M-4

(PG. 132-133) N/O-1 N-1 N-1/2 N/O-1 N-2 N-1 N-2 N-2 N-3/4 N-1 N-3 O-2 N-1 N-1 N-3 N-3 O-1 O-3 N/O-2 N-1 O-2 N-1 N-1 N/O-3/4 N-5 N/O-2 N-5 N/O-2/5 N-5 N-3 O-3 O-2 N/O-4 O-3 N-1 N/O-2

Norwida O-3 ObrońcówWybrzeża N-1 Orłowska O-6 Orzeszkowej N-3 Paderewskiego O-3 Partyzantów N/O-3 Perkuna O-6 Piłsudskiegomarsz. al. N/O-2/3 Podolska N-1/2 Poleska N-1 Portowa O-1 PowstaniaStyczniowego N/O-4 PowstaniaWielkopols Wielkopolskiego kiego N/O-4/5 Przebendowskich O-6 Pułaskiego O-1 Radtkego N-1 Redłowska N/O-4 Reja N-3 Sędzickiego O-2 Senatorska N-3/4 Sienkiewicza O-2 Sieroszewskiego O-2 Skośna N-4 Śląska N-1/2 Słowackiego N-2 Stwosza O-2 Świętojańska N/O-1/2 Wachowiaka N-3/4 Warszawska N-1/2 Waszyngtona O-1 Władysława IV N-1/2 Wojewódzka N-3/4 Wyspiańskiego O-3 Żwirki i Wigury N-2

136 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

CEDRY MAŁE

Index GDA ŃSK 3 Maja A-1/2/3/4 Aksamitna C-1 al. gen. Józefa Hallera G-3, F-2 al. Grunwaldzka E/F/G-2/3/4 al. Jana Pawła II E-3 al. Legionów F-3 al. Rzeczypos Rzeczypospolitej politej E-3 al. Zwycięstwa H-3 Angielska Grobla K-3 Arciszewskiego E-5 Asnyka F-2 Batorego F-4 Beethovena H-5 Bema I/J-4 Biała F-3 Biegańskiego J-5 Bielańska B-3 Biskupia A-5/6 Broniewskiego G/H-1 Browicza K-5 Brygidki C-2 Brzeźnieńska G-1 Chałubińskiego J-5 Chlebnicka C-4 Chmielna C-6, D-5/6 Cystersów E-1/2 Czyżewskiego E-1 Dąbrowskiego I-3/4 Dębowa H-4 Danusi F-3 Deptak Nadmorski G-1 Dmowskiego F-3 Do Studzienki G-4 Dokerów J-2 Doki B-1 Drwęcka I-5 Drzewieckiego E-2 Długa B-4 Długa Grobla K-2/3 Długi Targ C-5 Długie Ogrody K-3 Długie Pobrzeże D-4/5 Dyrekcyjna A-1 Dziana D-4 Żabi Kruk B-6 Żeleńskiego E-4 Elżbietańska B-3 Żwirki i Wigury E-2 Żytnia D-5 Fiszera G-3 Garbary B-4 Garncarska B-3 Gałczyńskiego H-1 Gdańska G-1/2 Gnilna B-2 Grażyny F-3 Grobla C-3/4 Grodzka D-3 Grota-Roweckiego I/J-1 Grottgera E-2 Głęboka K-2 Hallera G-1/2/3, F-2 Heweliusza B-2 Hołdu Pruskiego F-1 Hubala E-4 Hucisko A-3/4 Hynka E-3 Jana z Kolna H/I-3 Jaskółcza K-3/4 Jaśkowa Dolina F-4, F/G-5 Kaletnicza C-4 Kaprów F-2 Karmelicka B-2 Kartuska J-4, I-5

(PG. 129-131) Katarzynki C-3 Klesza C-4 Klonowicza F/G-4 Konopnickiej F-3 Korzeniowskiego G-1 Korzenna B-2 Kotwiczników C-5 Kościuszki E-3, F2/3 Kołodziejska B-4 Kozia C-4 Kramarska C-4 Krasickiego H-1 Krzywa J-2 Kupiecka B-1 Lawendowa C-3 Legnicka I-4 Lektykarska B/C-4 Lelewela F-3 Lendziona F-3/4 Lisia Grobla C-1 Lotników Polskich J-5 Ludowa E-4/5 Majkowskiego F-2 Mariacka C-4 Matejki G-4 Mickiewicza F-2/3 Minogi C/D-3 Miszewskiego G-3 Mokra C/D-4 Motławska D-5 Młyńska B-3 Młyny Wielkie B-2/3 Na Piaskach B-3 Na Stoku A-5 Narutowicza G-3 Nobla G-5 Nowe Ogrody J-4 Obr. Poczty Pol. D-2 Obrońców Westerplatte E-2 Ogarna B/C-5 Okopowa B-4/5/6 Olejarna C-2 Oliwska I/J-1 Opacka E-1 Osiek C-2 Ołowianka D-3/4 Owsiana D-6 Panieńska C-2 Pańska C-3 Partyzantów F-4, E-4/5 Piastowska F-1 Pileckiego G-4 Pilotów E-3 Piwna B/C-4 Pl. Dominikański C-3 Pl. Wałowy K-4 Pocztowa B-4/5 Poczty Gd. F-2 Podbielańska B-2 Podkramarska C-4 Podmłyńska B/C-3 Podwale Staromiejskie C-3 Podwale Grodzkie Grodzkie A-2/3, B-2 Politechniczna G-3 Pomorska F-1 Pończoszników C/D-5 Portowców G-1 Powroźnicza C-5 Powstańców Profesorska C-3 Przędzalnicza C/D-4 Przemysłowa H-1 Pszenna D-5 Rajska B-2 Reduta Żbik K-3

Refektarska C-2 Reja G-2/3 Rybaki Dolne C-2 Rybaki Górne C-1/2 Rzeźnicka B-5/6 Schopenhauera E-2 Siedlicka G-4 Sienkiewicza F/G-4 Sienna Grobla J/K-2 Siennicka K-2/3 Skarżyńskiego E-3 Sobieskiego G/H-4 Srebrniki E-5 Stary Rynek Oliwski E-2 Stolarska C-2 Straganiarska C-3 Stwosza E-2 Subisława F-1 Sucharskiego J-5, K-4 Słodowników C-5 Słomiana C-3 Słowackiego E-4/5 Suwalska G-5 Szafarnia D-4 Szeroka B-3, C-3/4 Szewska C-4 Szkocka K-5  Targ Rakowy A-4  Targ Sienny a-4  Targ Rybny Rybny D-3  Targ Węglowy Węglowy B-4  Teatralna B-4  Tkacka B-4  Tokarska D-4  Toruńska B-6  Trakt św. św. Wojciecha K-4/5  Traugutta G-4, H-3  Trawki E-5  Tuwima H-3  Twarda G/H-2  Łagiewniki B-1 Śluza K-4  Łuęycka J-5 Św. Barbary K-3 Św. Ducha B/C/D-4 Św. Piotra C-6 Św. Trójcy B-5 Świętojańska C-3 Świdnicka I-4 Wajdeloty F-3 Wartka D-3 Waryńskiego F-3 Warzywnicza D-3 Wałowa B-1/2, C/D-1 Wały Jagiellońskie A-3, B-3/4 Wały Piastowskie B-1 Wieniawskiego I-5 Wilcza B-6 Wileńska G-4/5 Wyspiańskiego G-3 Wyzwolenia I-2 Za Murami B/C-5 Zabłockiego G-5 Zabytkowa E/F-4 Zakopiańska I/J-4 Zakosy I-5 Zamenhofa E-4 Zamkowa C-2 Zawrotna B-2 Zbytki B-5 Zelwerowicza H-2 Zielonogórska J-5 Zielony Trójkąt G-2 Złotników C-4

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

3 Siostry 65 Abak i Mac-tur 127 Admirał 122 A La Française 33 Al Mare 127 Amber 125 Amber Moda 113 Amber Museum 80 Amsterdam Bar Beer & Bagel 54, 65 Anker 54 Anna Walentynowicz Monument 81 Antares 125 Apartamenty Sopot 127 Aquapark 110 Archaeology Education Centre - "Błękitny Lew" 80 Art Deco 35 Artus 125 Artus Court 75 Atelier Magda Beneda 116 August Accords 97 Avocado 33 Bar Bursztyn 58 Bar Mleczny Neptun 58 Bar Mleczny Słoneczny 58 Bar Mleczny Turystyczny 58 Bar Pod Rybą 54 Bar Pod Wierzbą 58 Bar Przystań 32 Barracuda 32 Bayjonn Hotel 122 Belgijki 30 Bellevue Restaurant 35 Best Western Hotel Bonum122 Bonum 122 BEST WESTERN PLUS Business Faltom Hotel Gdynia 122 Best Western Villa Aqua Hotel 125 Biała Lilia 125 Białe Wino i Owoce 59, 65 Biały Królik 49 Bistro&Bar 35 Bistro Małpa 30 Błękitny Pudel 65 Blick 122 Blokfit 107 Błyskawica 78 Bocian Morski 35 Bohemia Beer Cafe 31 Brasserie D'or 35 Brovarnia 36, 66 Browar Lubrow Trojmieski 10 Browar Miejski Sopot 36 Buddha Lounge 57, 66 Buffet Club 71 Bulaj 36 Bunkier Klubogaleria 70 Cafe Kamienica 60 Carmnik Kantyna 30 Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries 76 Central Sopot 126 Centrum Hewelianum 107 Centrum Nauki Experyment 108

Centrum Riviera 118 Centrum Wina 112 Ceramika Bolesławiecka 116 Church of St. John the Baptist 104 Chwila 60 City of Gdynia Museum 80 City Skating Rink 107 City Tour Gdańsk 79 Coctail Bar Max Sopot 66 Corpus Christi Church 76 Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia Waterfront 122 Crooked House 85 Crudo 57 Cuda Wianki 55 Cukiernia Delicje 60 Cyganeria 60 Cyrano et Roxane 33 Czarna Perła 109 Czarna Wołga 66 Czekolada 71 Czekoladowy Młyn 60 Dalmacija 31 Dar Pomorza 81 Displaced Gdynian Monument 78 Dom Aktora 125 Dom Muzyka 125 Dom Schumannów 125 Dom Sushi 46 Donegal 67 Dream Club 71 Drukarnia 61 Dwie Zmiany 67 Dwór Oliwski City Hotel & SPA 121 Easy Gdańsk Tours 79 El Greco 34 Emigration Museum in Gdynia 82 Empik 114 Escaperooms 106 Eter Boutique 114 European Solidarity Centre 98, 99 Fahrenheit 122 Familia Bistro 46 Fanaberia Crepes & Cafe 55 Fashion House 118 Father Jankowski statue 78 Fellini 43 Fidel Gastro Bar 36 Filharmonia 37 Flisak 76 67 Focus 125 Free City of Danzig Historical Zone 89 Galeria Bałtycka 118 Galeria Bałtycka Food Court 54 Galeria Handlowa Madison 119 Galeria Sztuki Sztuki Kaszubskiej 114 Galeria Wydra 113 Gård – Nordic Kitchen 56 Garrison Church of of St Jerzy 76 Gdańsk 122

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Gdańska 52 Gdansk Apartments 127 Gdansk History Museum 81 Gdańsk Souvenir Centre 116 Gdańsk Tourist Information Centre 75 Gdansk with us 79 Gdańsk Zoo 109 Gdynia Aquarium 108 Gdynia Ice Rink 107 Glass Studio Habrat 116 Główna Osobowa 37 Golden Gate 74 Golden Tulip Gdansk Residence 122 Goldwasser 37 Goldwasser Coffee Shop 61 Goldwasser restaurant 113 Good Morning Vietnam 58 Granary Island 85 Grand Cru 122 Grand SPA 110 Grass' home 91 Great Armoury 85 Great Mill 85 Green Club 106 Green Gate 75 Green Way 58 Grono di Rucola 43 Gryf 127 Guardhouse Number 1 95 Gunter Grass Monument 91 Haffner 122 Haffner Monument 79 Hala Targowa Gdańsk 117 Hala Targowa Gdynia 117 Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Airport 123 Hanza 123 Hard Rock Cafe 29, 67 Hevelius's Home & Brewery 87 High 5 68, 126 Hilton Hotel 121 Historical Gate #2 of the Gdansk Shipyard 100 Holland House Residence 123 Hostel Universus 126 Hotel Haffner Spa 111 Hotel SPA Faltom 123 Hotton 123 Hummusland 38 I Krowa Cała 58 Irena 125 Irish Pub Piwnica 68 Jacques André 111 Jan III Sobieski Monument 100 Johannes Hevelius Monument 87 Joseph Conrad Monument 79 JOVI Apartments 127 Józef Piłsudski Monument 79 JUMPCITY 109 Kamienica Goldwasser 125 Kamienica Gotyk 125 Kandelabry 68 Karczma Irena 49

Karczma Polska Zagroda 49 Kart Center 107 Kawiarnia Filmowa W Starym Kadrze 62 KFC 54 Klif 119 Kobza Haus 126 Kolano Stables 110 KOS 112 Kotlet 49 Królewski 123 Kubicki 52 Kuchnia Rosyjska 56 Kultowe Zapiekanki 30 Kuracyjny 123 Kwadrans 54 Lalala Art Hotel 126 La Marea 47 Lao Thai 57 La Pampa Steakhouse 57 Lawendowa 8 68 Lech Wałęsa 100 Leniwa Baba 54 Let Me Out 106 Libation 10 Long Market & Neptune Fountain 75 Long Street 74 Lookier Cafe & Restaurant 62 Loopy's World 109 Main Town Hall 75 Makahiki 10 Mała Anglia Boutique Apartments 127 Malbork Welcome Center 104 Malika 47 Marina Club Hotel 126 Maritime Culture Centre 84 Mary's Gate 104 Masala 34 McDonald's 55 Mera SPA 111 Mera SPA Hotel 123 Mera Spa Hotel Brasserie 45 Mercato 38 Mercure Gdańsk Stare Miasto 123 Mercure Gdynia Centrum 123 Midtown Hostel 126 Mila 112 MK Bowling 106 Młody Byron 62 Mocno Nadziane 50 Molo Residence 123 Mondo di Vinegre 38 Monsieur Armand 115 Monte Vino 38 Monument of King Kazimierz IV Jagiellończyk 104 Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers 100 Monument to the Evacuated Children 79 Morska 32 Muka 30 Nadmorski 124

December 2015 - April 2016 137

Street Register SOPOT

(PG. 132-133)

1 Maja L-4 23 Marca L-3 3 Maja L/M-5 Abrahama L-4 Andersa, gen. L-4 Architektów M-6 Armii Krajowej L-3/5 Bitwy pod Płowcam M-5/6 Boczna L-5 Bohaterów Monte Cassino L/M-4 Broniewskiego L-4 Budzysza M-3 Ceynowy M-3 Chopina L/M-4 Dębowa L-5 Drzymały M-5 Fiszera, gen. M-4 Głowackiego L-5/6 Goyki L/M-3 Grottgera L-4 Grunwaldzka M-4/5 Haffnera M-2/4 Helska M-3 Jagiełły L-4 Jana Kazimierza L-5 Jana z Kolna L-5 Joselewicza L/M-5 Junaków L-2 Karlikowska M-5 Kaszubska L-2 KazimierzaWielkiego M4/5 Kilińskiego M-5 Kochanowskiego L-5 Konopnickiej L-4 Konstytuc ji 3 Maja, pl. L-4 Kopernika L-5 Kordeckiego M-4 Kościuszki L 4/5 Krasickiego L-4 Kraszewskiego L-2 Książąt Pomorskich M-5 Księżycowa L-3 Kubacza, dr. L-4 Kujawska L-2 Kusocińskiego,, pl. Kusocińskiego M-3 Lipowa L-5  Łowicka L-2  Łużycka L-2 Malczewskiego L-2/3

Małopolska L-2 Mamuszki, al. M-3/4 Marynarzy L-4 Mazowiecka L-2 Mickiewicza L-4 Mieszka I M4/5 Mokwy M-4 Moniuszki L-4 Morska M-4 Na Wydmach M-5 Niepodległości,al. L/M-2/6 Obodrzyców L-2 Obrońców Westerplatte L-3/4 Okrężna L-3 Okrzei M-5 Paderewskiego L-4 Parkowa M-4/5 Piastów M-4 Plater M-5 Podgórna L-2/3 Pogodna M-6 Polna L/M-5 Poniatowskiego, Poniatowskie go, ks. M-5 PowstańcówWarszawy M-3/4 Przemysłowa L-5/6 Pułaskiego M-4 Racławicka L-5/6 Reja L-5 Sępia M-2 Sienkiewicza L-2 Sikorskiego,gen. L-4 Skarpowa L/M-5 Skłodowskiej-Curie L-5 Sobieskiego M-4/5 Sportowa L-6 Strzelecka L-3/4  Traugutta M-5 Wejherowska L-2/3 Winieckiego M-3/4 Władysława IV L-5 Władysława Łokietka L-5/6 Wojska Polskiego, al. M-5/6 Wybickiego L-4 Zacisze L-3 Zamenhofa L-4 Zamkowa Góra M-2 Zdrój św. Wojciech M-6 Zdrojowy, pl. M-4

GDYNIA 10 Lutego 3 Maja Abrahama Armii Krajowej Asnyka Batorego Bema gen. Białostocka Dąbrowskiegoo gen. Dąbrowskieg Dworcowa Focha Fredry Grunwaldzkipl. Hala Harcerska Hetmańska Hryniewickiego Chopina I Armii WP Jana z Kolna Kasprowicza Kaszubski pl. Konstytucjipl. Kopernika Kościelna Krasickiego Krośnieńska Legionów Lotników Maczka gen. Matejki Mickiewicza Mokwy Moniuszki Morska Necla

(PG. 132-133) N/O-1 N-1 N-1/2 N/O-1 N-2 N-1 N-2 N-2 N-3/4 N-1 N-3 O-2 N-1 N-1 N-3 N-3 O-1 O-3 N/O-2 N-1 O-2 N-1 N-1 N/O-3/4 N-5 N/O-2 N-5 N/O-2/5 N-5 N-3 O-3 O-2 N/O-4 O-3 N-1 N/O-2

Norwida O-3 ObrońcówWybrzeża N-1 Orłowska O-6 Orzeszkowej N-3 Paderewskiego O-3 Partyzantów N/O-3 Perkuna O-6 Piłsudskiegomarsz. al. N/O-2/3 Podolska N-1/2 Poleska N-1 Portowa O-1 PowstaniaStyczniowego N/O-4 PowstaniaWielkopols Wielkopolskiego kiego N/O-4/5 Przebendowskich O-6 Pułaskiego O-1 Radtkego N-1 Redłowska N/O-4 Reja N-3 Sędzickiego O-2 Senatorska N-3/4 Sienkiewicza O-2 Sieroszewskiego O-2 Skośna N-4 Śląska N-1/2 Słowackiego N-2 Stwosza O-2 Świętojańska N/O-1/2 Wachowiaka N-3/4 Warszawska N-1/2 Waszyngtona O-1 Władysława IV N-1/2 Wojewódzka N-3/4 Wyspiańskiego O-3 Żwirki i Wigury N-2

Index GDA ŃSK 3 Maja A-1/2/3/4 Aksamitna C-1 al. gen. Józefa Hallera G-3, F-2 al. Grunwaldzka E/F/G-2/3/4 al. Jana Pawła II E-3 al. Legionów F-3 al. Rzeczypos Rzeczypospolitej politej E-3 al. Zwycięstwa H-3 Angielska Grobla K-3 Arciszewskiego E-5 Asnyka F-2 Batorego F-4 Beethovena H-5 Bema I/J-4 Biała F-3 Biegańskiego J-5 Bielańska B-3 Biskupia A-5/6 Broniewskiego G/H-1 Browicza K-5 Brygidki C-2 Brzeźnieńska G-1 Chałubińskiego J-5 Chlebnicka C-4 Chmielna C-6, D-5/6 Cystersów E-1/2 Czyżewskiego E-1 Dąbrowskiego I-3/4 Dębowa H-4 Danusi F-3 Deptak Nadmorski G-1 Dmowskiego F-3 Do Studzienki G-4 Dokerów J-2 Doki B-1 Drwęcka I-5 Drzewieckiego E-2 Długa B-4 Długa Grobla K-2/3 Długi Targ C-5 Długie Ogrody K-3 Długie Pobrzeże D-4/5 Dyrekcyjna A-1 Dziana D-4 Żabi Kruk B-6 Żeleńskiego E-4 Elżbietańska B-3 Żwirki i Wigury E-2 Żytnia D-5 Fiszera G-3 Garbary B-4 Garncarska B-3 Gałczyńskiego H-1 Gdańska G-1/2 Gnilna B-2 Grażyny F-3 Grobla C-3/4 Grodzka D-3 Grota-Roweckiego I/J-1 Grottgera E-2 Głęboka K-2 Hallera G-1/2/3, F-2 Heweliusza B-2 Hołdu Pruskiego F-1 Hubala E-4 Hucisko A-3/4 Hynka E-3 Jana z Kolna H/I-3 Jaskółcza K-3/4 Jaśkowa Dolina F-4, F/G-5 Kaletnicza C-4 Kaprów F-2 Karmelicka B-2 Kartuska J-4, I-5

(PG. 129-131) Katarzynki C-3 Klesza C-4 Klonowicza F/G-4 Konopnickiej F-3 Korzeniowskiego G-1 Korzenna B-2 Kotwiczników C-5 Kościuszki E-3, F2/3 Kołodziejska B-4 Kozia C-4 Kramarska C-4 Krasickiego H-1 Krzywa J-2 Kupiecka B-1 Lawendowa C-3 Legnicka I-4 Lektykarska B/C-4 Lelewela F-3 Lendziona F-3/4 Lisia Grobla C-1 Lotników Polskich J-5 Ludowa E-4/5 Majkowskiego F-2 Mariacka C-4 Matejki G-4 Mickiewicza F-2/3 Minogi C/D-3 Miszewskiego G-3 Mokra C/D-4 Motławska D-5 Młyńska B-3 Młyny Wielkie B-2/3 Na Piaskach B-3 Na Stoku A-5 Narutowicza G-3 Nobla G-5 Nowe Ogrody J-4 Obr. Poczty Pol. D-2 Obrońców Westerplatte E-2 Ogarna B/C-5 Okopowa B-4/5/6 Olejarna C-2 Oliwska I/J-1 Opacka E-1 Osiek C-2 Ołowianka D-3/4 Owsiana D-6 Panieńska C-2 Pańska C-3 Partyzantów F-4, E-4/5 Piastowska F-1 Pileckiego G-4 Pilotów E-3 Piwna B/C-4 Pl. Dominikański C-3 Pl. Wałowy K-4 Pocztowa B-4/5 Poczty Gd. F-2 Podbielańska B-2 Podkramarska C-4 Podmłyńska B/C-3 Podwale Staromiejskie C-3 Podwale Grodzkie Grodzkie A-2/3, B-2 Politechniczna G-3 Pomorska F-1 Pończoszników C/D-5 Portowców G-1 Powroźnicza C-5 Powstańców Profesorska C-3 Przędzalnicza C/D-4 Przemysłowa H-1 Pszenna D-5 Rajska B-2 Reduta Żbik K-3

136 Gdańsk In Your Pocket

Refektarska C-2 Reja G-2/3 Rybaki Dolne C-2 Rybaki Górne C-1/2 Rzeźnicka B-5/6 Schopenhauera E-2 Siedlicka G-4 Sienkiewicza F/G-4 Sienna Grobla J/K-2 Siennicka K-2/3 Skarżyńskiego E-3 Sobieskiego G/H-4 Srebrniki E-5 Stary Rynek Oliwski E-2 Stolarska C-2 Straganiarska C-3 Stwosza E-2 Subisława F-1 Sucharskiego J-5, K-4 Słodowników C-5 Słomiana C-3 Słowackiego E-4/5 Suwalska G-5 Szafarnia D-4 Szeroka B-3, C-3/4 Szewska C-4 Szkocka K-5  Targ Rakowy A-4  Targ Sienny a-4  Targ Rybny Rybny D-3  Targ Węglowy Węglowy B-4  Teatralna B-4  Tkacka B-4  Tokarska D-4  Toruńska B-6  Trakt św. św. Wojciecha K-4/5  Traugutta G-4, H-3  Trawki E-5  Tuwima H-3  Twarda G/H-2  Łagiewniki B-1 Śluza K-4  Łuęycka J-5 Św. Barbary K-3 Św. Ducha B/C/D-4 Św. Piotra C-6 Św. Trójcy B-5 Świętojańska C-3 Świdnicka I-4 Wajdeloty F-3 Wartka D-3 Waryńskiego F-3 Warzywnicza D-3 Wałowa B-1/2, C/D-1 Wały Jagiellońskie A-3, B-3/4 Wały Piastowskie B-1 Wieniawskiego I-5 Wilcza B-6 Wileńska G-4/5 Wyspiańskiego G-3 Wyzwolenia I-2 Za Murami B/C-5 Zabłockiego G-5 Zabytkowa E/F-4 Zakopiańska I/J-4 Zakosy I-5 Zamenhofa E-4 Zamkowa C-2 Zawrotna B-2 Zbytki B-5 Zelwerowicza H-2 Zielonogórska J-5 Zielony Trójkąt G-2 Złotników C-4

gdansk.inyourpocket.com

Index Na Drugą Nóżkę 59, 71 Naleśnikowo 55 National Maritime Museum 84 National Museum Old Art Department 82 Naval Museum 82 Neptun 127 NonSens 68 Non Stop 112 Nova Pierogova 50 Novotel Centrum 124 Novotel Gdańsk Marina 124 Nowy Port Lighthouse 95 Och! Hostel 126 Ocneba 31 Old Town Hall 87, 105 Oliwa Cathedral 80 Oliwski 126 Original Burger 30 Outlet Sopot 113 Panorama 50 Patio Español 56 Pension Eden 127 Pescatore 43 Pier 85 Pierogarnia Mandu 50 Pierogarnia Pierożek 51 Pierogarnia U Dzika 51 Pitstop Electric Go-Carts 107 Piwiarnia Warka 51 Pizzeria Margherita 43 Podewils 121 Pod Łososiem 52 Pod Łososiem Łososiem Restaurant 113 Polish Post Office 94 Pomeranian Tourist Information Centre 75 Post Office Monument 94 Potters' Gate 105 Pracownia i Galeria Styl 113 Prison Tower and Torture Chamber 74 Prologue Restaurant & Bar 39 Pub Charlie 29 Pub Polskie Kino 59, 69 Pueblo 47 Puro Gdańsk 124 Quadrille Conference & Spa 121 Quadrille SPA 111 Qubus Hotel 124 Radisson Blu 121 Red Light Pub 69 Restauracja Krew & Woda 39 Restauracja Ritz 39 Restauracja Sztuczka 40 Retro Cafe 63 RetroMANIAK Klubo Galeria 69 Rezydent 121 Ristorante La Cucina 43 Ristorante Sempre 44 Rock Shop 116 Romanesque Cellar 83 Rotunda Cafe 63 Royal Apartments 127 Royal Chapel 77

sk I In n Your Pocket 138 Gdańsk

Różany Gaj 124 Rucola 40 Ryszard Kukliński Monument 81 Salonik pod Skrzydlatym Aniołem 114 Scandic Gdańsk 124 Sea Towers 127 Serio 44 Sheraton Sopot Hotel 121 Sisters Lodge Hostel 126 Smart Hotel Garnizon 126 Sofitel Grand Sopot 121 Sołdek 84 Sopocki Rynek 117 Sopot 737 L'entre Villes Restaurant 40 Sopot Fort 83 Sopot Museum 83 Sopot Pier Skating Rink 107 Spatif 71 Śródmieście 69 Statue to the Defenders of Westerplatte 95 St. Bridget's Church 101 St. Catherine's Church 87 St. John's Church 87 St. Mary's Church 77 St. Nicholas' Church 77 Store&More 114 Studio Amber 113 Subway 55 Surf Burger 30 Sushi 77 46 Szafa Gdańska 116 Szafarnia 10 41 Szczęśliwego Nowego Jorku 70 Szydłowski 126  Tabun 110  Taj Mahal 34  Tako 55  Tandoori Love 34  Tapas De Rucola 70  Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt 32  Tawerna 32  Tekstylia 41, 70  Tesoro 45  Tesoro Express 55  Thai Thai 58  That English Place 63  The Crane 84  The Latin School Building 105  The Museum of the Second World War 95  The Old Gdańsk 70  The Spa at Sheraton Sopot 111 111  Tokyo Sushi 46  Tom's Diner 29  Toscana Restaurant 45  Tourist Information Center 75  Tourist Information Sopot 75  Trafik 41  Trattoria Antica 45  Tu'gether! 41  Tupot Mew 51

U Kucharzy ul. Piwna Upland Gate Verres en Vers Villa Admirał Villa Akme Villa Antonina Villa Eva Villa Gdynia Villa Sedan Villa Uphagena Vinegre Vinifera Viva la Pizza

10 87 74 33 126 127 126 126 126 124 52 42 91 55

Wałęsa's wall Walkout Wave Willa Lubicz Wine Bar Literacka Wolne Miasto Wtedy Yang Guang Zhong Hua Zła Kobieta Żuraw

101 106 45 42, 124 42 126 71 31 124 71 42

FEATURES INDEX Adult Entertainment Anna Walentynowicz Blyskawica Brunch Bunkier Communist Architecture Crooked House Daniel Fahrenheit Danzig/Gdansk Disaster at sea Emigration Museum Facts & Figures Food Trucks Gdansk IYP online Goldwasser Hot Wine Janek Wisniewski Kvass Language Smarts Lech Wałęsa Local Beer Made in Gdansk Market Values Milk Bars Modern Heroes Monciak Museum of WWII New Town Hall Oliwa Cathedral Polish Food Polish snacks and shots Ryszard Kukliński Straż Miejska  The Kashubians  The Post Office Siege  Tour Guides  Tourist Card  Tourist Information

68 81 78 45 70 8 71 62 13 79 82 18 30 114 53 66 101 61 19 100 70 115 18 58 85 50 95 89 80 48 59 81 15 119 94 79 76 75 gdansk.inyourpocket.com

3 Siostry 65 Abak i Mac-tur 127 Admirał 122 A La Française 33 Al Mare 127 Amber 125 Amber Moda 113 Amber Museum 80 Amsterdam Bar Beer & Bagel 54, 65 Anker 54 Anna Walentynowicz Monument 81 Antares 125 Apartamenty Sopot 127 Aquapark 110 Archaeology Education Centre - "Błękitny Lew" 80 Art Deco 35 Artus 125 Artus Court 75 Atelier Magda Beneda 116 August Accords 97 Avocado 33 Bar Bursztyn 58 Bar Mleczny Neptun 58 Bar Mleczny Słoneczny 58 Bar Mleczny Turystyczny 58 Bar Pod Rybą 54 Bar Pod Wierzbą 58 Bar Przystań 32 Barracuda 32 Bayjonn Hotel 122 Belgijki 30 Bellevue Restaurant 35 Best Western Hotel Bonum122 Bonum 122 BEST WESTERN PLUS Business Faltom Hotel Gdynia 122 Best Western Villa Aqua Hotel 125 Biała Lilia 125 Białe Wino i Owoce 59, 65 Biały Królik 49 Bistro&Bar 35 Bistro Małpa 30 Błękitny Pudel 65 Blick 122 Blokfit 107 Błyskawica 78 Bocian Morski 35 Bohemia Beer Cafe 31 Brasserie D'or 35 Brovarnia 36, 66 Browar Lubrow Trojmieski 10 Browar Miejski Sopot 36 Buddha Lounge 57, 66 Buffet Club 71 Bulaj 36 Bunkier Klubogaleria 70 Cafe Kamienica 60 Carmnik Kantyna 30 Cemetery of the Lost Cemeteries 76 Central Sopot 126 Centrum Hewelianum 107 Centrum Nauki Experyment 108

Centrum Riviera 118 Centrum Wina 112 Ceramika Bolesławiecka 116 Church of St. John the Baptist 104 Chwila 60 City of Gdynia Museum 80 City Skating Rink 107 City Tour Gdańsk 79 Coctail Bar Max Sopot 66 Corpus Christi Church 76 Courtyard by Marriott Gdynia Waterfront 122 Crooked House 85 Crudo 57 Cuda Wianki 55 Cukiernia Delicje 60 Cyganeria 60 Cyrano et Roxane 33 Czarna Perła 109 Czarna Wołga 66 Czekolada 71 Czekoladowy Młyn 60 Dalmacija 31 Dar Pomorza 81 Displaced Gdynian Monument 78 Dom Aktora 125 Dom Muzyka 125 Dom Schumannów 125 Dom Sushi 46 Donegal 67 Dream Club 71 Drukarnia 61 Dwie Zmiany 67 Dwór Oliwski City Hotel & SPA 121 Easy Gdańsk Tours 79 El Greco 34 Emigration Museum in Gdynia 82 Empik 114 Escaperooms 106 Eter Boutique 114 European Solidarity Centre 98, 99 Fahrenheit 122 Familia Bistro 46 Fanaberia Crepes & Cafe 55 Fashion House 118 Father Jankowski statue 78 Fellini 43 Fidel Gastro Bar 36 Filharmonia 37 Flisak 76 67 Focus 125 Free City of Danzig Historical Zone 89 Galeria Bałtycka 118 Galeria Bałtycka Food Court 54 Galeria Handlowa Madison 119 Galeria Sztuki Sztuki Kaszubskiej 114 Galeria Wydra 113 Gård – Nordic Kitchen 56 Garrison Church of of St Jerzy 76 Gdańsk 122

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Gdańska 52 Gdansk Apartments 127 Gdansk History Museum 81 Gdańsk Souvenir Centre 116 Gdańsk Tourist Information Centre 75 Gdansk with us 79 Gdańsk Zoo 109 Gdynia Aquarium 108 Gdynia Ice Rink 107 Glass Studio Habrat 116 Główna Osobowa 37 Golden Gate 74 Golden Tulip Gdansk Residence 122 Goldwasser 37 Goldwasser Coffee Shop 61 Goldwasser restaurant 113 Good Morning Vietnam 58 Granary Island 85 Grand Cru 122 Grand SPA 110 Grass' home 91 Great Armoury 85 Great Mill 85 Green Club 106 Green Gate 75 Green Way 58 Grono di Rucola 43 Gryf 127 Guardhouse Number 1 95 Gunter Grass Monument 91 Haffner 122 Haffner Monument 79 Hala Targowa Gdańsk 117 Hala Targowa Gdynia 117 Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Airport 123 Hanza 123 Hard Rock Cafe 29, 67 Hevelius's Home & Brewery 87 High 5 68, 126 Hilton Hotel 121 Historical Gate #2 of the Gdansk Shipyard 100 Holland House Residence 123 Hostel Universus 126 Hotel Haffner Spa 111 Hotel SPA Faltom 123 Hotton 123 Hummusland 38 I Krowa Cała 58 Irena 125 Irish Pub Piwnica 68 Jacques André 111 Jan III Sobieski Monument 100 Johannes Hevelius Monument 87 Joseph Conrad Monument 79 JOVI Apartments 127 Józef Piłsudski Monument 79 JUMPCITY 109 Kamienica Goldwasser 125 Kamienica Gotyk 125 Kandelabry 68 Karczma Irena 49

Karczma Polska Zagroda 49 Kart Center 107 Kawiarnia Filmowa W Starym Kadrze 62 KFC 54 Klif 119 Kobza Haus 126 Kolano Stables 110 KOS 112 Kotlet 49 Królewski 123 Kubicki 52 Kuchnia Rosyjska 56 Kultowe Zapiekanki 30 Kuracyjny 123 Kwadrans 54 Lalala Art Hotel 126 La Marea 47 Lao Thai 57 La Pampa Steakhouse 57 Lawendowa 8 68 Lech Wałęsa 100 Leniwa Baba 54 Let Me Out 106 Libation 10 Long Market & Neptune Fountain 75 Long Street 74 Lookier Cafe & Restaurant 62 Loopy's World 109 Main Town Hall 75 Makahiki 10 Mała Anglia Boutique Apartments 127 Malbork Welcome Center 104 Malika 47 Marina Club Hotel 126 Maritime Culture Centre 84 Mary's Gate 104 Masala 34 McDonald's 55 Mera SPA 111 Mera SPA Hotel 123 Mera Spa Hotel Brasserie 45 Mercato 38 Mercure Gdańsk Stare Miasto 123 Mercure Gdynia Centrum 123 Midtown Hostel 126 Mila 112 MK Bowling 106 Młody Byron 62 Mocno Nadziane 50 Molo Residence 123 Mondo di Vinegre 38 Monsieur Armand 115 Monte Vino 38 Monument of King Kazimierz IV Jagiellończyk 104 Monument of the Fallen Shipyard Workers 100 Monument to the Evacuated Children 79 Morska 32 Muka 30 Nadmorski 124

December 2015 - April 2016 137

Index Na Drugą Nóżkę 59, 71 Naleśnikowo 55 National Maritime Museum 84 National Museum Old Art Department 82 Naval Museum 82 Neptun 127 NonSens 68 Non Stop 112 Nova Pierogova 50 Novotel Centrum 124 Novotel Gdańsk Marina 124 Nowy Port Lighthouse 95 Och! Hostel 126 Ocneba 31 Old Town Hall 87, 105 Oliwa Cathedral 80 Oliwski 126 Original Burger 30 Outlet Sopot 113 Panorama 50 Patio Español 56 Pension Eden 127 Pescatore 43 Pier 85 Pierogarnia Mandu 50 Pierogarnia Pierożek 51 Pierogarnia U Dzika 51 Pitstop Electric Go-Carts 107 Piwiarnia Warka 51 Pizzeria Margherita 43 Podewils 121 Pod Łososiem 52 Pod Łososiem Łososiem Restaurant 113 Polish Post Office 94 Pomeranian Tourist Information Centre 75 Post Office Monument 94 Potters' Gate 105 Pracownia i Galeria Styl 113 Prison Tower and Torture Chamber 74 Prologue Restaurant & Bar 39 Pub Charlie 29 Pub Polskie Kino 59, 69 Pueblo 47 Puro Gdańsk 124 Quadrille Conference & Spa 121 Quadrille SPA 111 Qubus Hotel 124 Radisson Blu 121 Red Light Pub 69 Restauracja Krew & Woda 39 Restauracja Ritz 39 Restauracja Sztuczka 40 Retro Cafe 63 RetroMANIAK Klubo Galeria 69 Rezydent 121 Ristorante La Cucina 43 Ristorante Sempre 44 Rock Shop 116 Romanesque Cellar 83 Rotunda Cafe 63 Royal Apartments 127 Royal Chapel 77

sk I In n Your Pocket 138 Gdańsk

Różany Gaj 124 Rucola 40 Ryszard Kukliński Monument 81 Salonik pod Skrzydlatym Aniołem 114 Scandic Gdańsk 124 Sea Towers 127 Serio 44 Sheraton Sopot Hotel 121 Sisters Lodge Hostel 126 Smart Hotel Garnizon 126 Sofitel Grand Sopot 121 Sołdek 84 Sopocki Rynek 117 Sopot 737 L'entre Villes Restaurant 40 Sopot Fort 83 Sopot Museum 83 Sopot Pier Skating Rink 107 Spatif 71 Śródmieście 69 Statue to the Defenders of Westerplatte 95 St. Bridget's Church 101 St. Catherine's Church 87 St. John's Church 87 St. Mary's Church 77 St. Nicholas' Church 77 Store&More 114 Studio Amber 113 Subway 55 Surf Burger 30 Sushi 77 46 Szafa Gdańska 116 Szafarnia 10 41 Szczęśliwego Nowego Jorku 70 Szydłowski 126  Tabun 110  Taj Mahal 34  Tako 55  Tandoori Love 34  Tapas De Rucola 70  Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt 32  Tawerna 32  Tekstylia 41, 70  Tesoro 45  Tesoro Express 55  Thai Thai 58  That English Place 63  The Crane 84  The Latin School Building 105  The Museum of the Second World War 95  The Old Gdańsk 70  The Spa at Sheraton Sopot 111 111  Tokyo Sushi 46  Tom's Diner 29  Toscana Restaurant 45  Tourist Information Center 75  Tourist Information Sopot 75  Trafik 41  Trattoria Antica 45  Tu'gether! 41  Tupot Mew 51

U Kucharzy ul. Piwna Upland Gate Verres en Vers Villa Admirał Villa Akme Villa Antonina Villa Eva Villa Gdynia Villa Sedan Villa Uphagena Vinegre Vinifera Viva la Pizza

10 87 74 33 126 127 126 126 126 124 52 42 91 55

Wałęsa's wall Walkout Wave Willa Lubicz Wine Bar Literacka Wolne Miasto Wtedy Yang Guang Zhong Hua Zła Kobieta Żuraw

101 106 45 42, 124 42 126 71 31 124 71 42

FEATURES INDEX Adult Entertainment Anna Walentynowicz Blyskawica Brunch Bunkier Communist Architecture Crooked House Daniel Fahrenheit Danzig/Gdansk Disaster at sea Emigration Museum Facts & Figures Food Trucks Gdansk IYP online Goldwasser Hot Wine Janek Wisniewski Kvass Language Smarts Lech Wałęsa Local Beer Made in Gdansk Market Values Milk Bars Modern Heroes Monciak Museum of WWII New Town Hall Oliwa Cathedral Polish Food Polish snacks and shots Ryszard Kukliński Straż Miejska  The Kashubians  The Post Office Siege  Tour Guides  Tourist Card  Tourist Information

68 81 78 45 70 8 71 62 13 79 82 18 30 114 53 66 101 61 19 100 70 115 18 58 85 50 95 89 80 48 59 81 15 119 94 79 76 75 gdansk.inyourpocket.com