Garden Fairy: Hana The

 

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Garden Fairy C

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from the Fairies, Elves & Fantasy Doll Collection BY OCHE POTS

 W i n t e r F a i r y , F o r e s t F a i r y , G a r d e n F a i r y , T o o t h F a i r y  W i z a r d , P i x i e G i r l , F o r e s t E l v e s

Original patterns for "The Fairies, Elves & Fantasy Doll Collection" designed by Clare Cooper for oche pots. These patterns are for personal use only. These patterns or parts of them must not be reproduced or published (printed or online), altered, resold or used for commercial purposes without written authorisation.

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Fairies, Elves & Fantasy

patterns by oche pots

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Garden Fairy

 

Fairies, Elves & Fantasy

patterns by oche pots

pattern notes Welcome to the Fairies, Elves & Fantasy Doll Collection! Here you'll find a some allusive little beings ready to surprise and delight. All you need is a little imagination... About this pattern This crochet pattern includes instructions for creating "Hana the Garden Fairy". You'll find the written pattern detailed on pages 5 through to 8, with example photos of key pattern steps included on page 9.   General tips and recommendations knowledge of basic crochet stitches and amigurumi technique is recommended for completing this pattern round (or row) numbers are indicated i n bold bold at  at the start of each line work in continuous rounds (spiral) unless otherwise indicated mark the beginning of each round with a stitch marker change yarn colour on the last step of  the previous stitch (i.e. the stitch before the indicated colour change).

A note on skin colour Most of the patterns from this collection use a pale cream for the skin colour. I felt this gave the dolls an almost ethereal look about them. You may, of course, use any shade of skin tone that you prefer. Serious stuff  All the patterns from the Fairies, Elves & Fantasy Doll Collection are available on Etsy. You are welcome to sell your makes from this pattern (in limited quantities), with a pattern credit to myself  as the designer (oche pots). Please do not share this pattern or claim it as your own. For any enquires, feel free to contact me via Etsy or email [email protected]. [email protected]. Thank you for your support. And finally... Thank you for choosing an oche pots pattern! I hope you enjoy creating your own little collection of fairies, elves and other mystical beings. Love Clare x

Finished size Hana is about 28 cm tall when made using the recommended yarn and hook size, but will vary based on i ndividual tension and crochet style. A note on faces Embroidering the face on your amigurumi can take practise and patience, but will add lots of individual personality... no two are ever the same! For these patterns, I find it easier to add embroidered details after finishing the head and hat.

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abbreviations

patterns by oche pots

materials

This pattern uses US crochet terminology. rnd(s) rnd(s)  - round(s)

Sport or DK (light worsted) weight cotton yarn (50 g = 125 m) - pale cream (skin colour)

MC  - magic circle ch  - chain stitch st(s) st(s)  - stitch(es) sl st st  - slip stitch sc  - single crochet hd c  - half double crochet dc  - double crochet ht r  - half treble crochet tr  - treble crochet inc (or sc-inc sc-inc)) - increase (2 sc in same st ) hdc-inc hdc-inc  - half double crochet increase (2 hdc in same st)

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light purple (hair) pink (shoes and top) white (flower) teal (skirt) pale pink (wings) green & gold (embellishments) (embellishments)

dc-inc - double crochet increase (2 dc in same st) de c  - decrease (sc next 2 sts together) dc-dec dc-dec  - double crochet decrease (dc next 2 sts together) bl o  - back loop only (...) x ...  ...   - repeat repeat stitches stitches between between brackets by the number of times indicated [...]   - total number of stitches in a [...] round (or row) YO  - yarn over

- or preferred hook size for yarn weight Crochet hook in size 3 mm (for flower and skirt) - US D-3, UK 11

For face details: - embroidery needle - embroidery floss in black and pink Crochet hook in size 2.5 mm - US C-2, UK 12

Fibrefill, stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle (blunt tip), dressmaking pins (optional)

special stitches popcorn stitch (PC) - make 5 dc into same st/space, lengthen working loop and remove hook from 5th dc, insert hook into 1st dc of  group and then back into working loop of  5th dc, pull loop through 1st dc and ch 1 to close starting popcorn stitch ('starting PC') ch 3 (counts as first dc of popcorn stitch) a stitch)  a nd make another 4 dc into same st/space, lengthen working loop and remove hook from 4th dc, insert hook into top of ch 3 and then back into working loop of 4th dc, pull loop through top of ch 3 and ch 1 to close page 4

2 double crochet cluster (2-dc-cl)  work 2 double crochet together in same stitch,, (YO, insert hook into st, YO and stitch pull through stitch, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) x 2, YO and pull though all 3 sts on hook

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patterns by oche pots

head The head is worked as two circular pieces (front and back), which are then joined with a round of single crochet.

Change to skin colour. Continue working sc around the head, stuffing firmly before closing the rnd with a sl st.

front (face)

Fasten off and weave in yarn ends.

In 1  2 3  4  5  6  7  8  9 

hair

skin colour 6 sc into MC [6] 6 inc [12] (sc, inc) x 6 [18] (sc, inc, sc) x 6 [24] (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30] (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36] (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42] (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 [48] (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]

10   (4 11   (9 12   (5 13-14

sc, inc, sc, inc) sc, inc, 72 sc

fringe Make a half circle, in hair colour. Work in rows (ch 2 and ch 3 count as stitches). 1 MC, ch 3, 6 dc into MC, tighten MC but  do not join rnd   [7 ] 2 ch 3, turn turn,, dc into same st, dc-inc x 6, working last dc-inc into top top of of ch 3 [14] 3 ch 3, turn turn,, dc into same st, (dc, dc-inc) x 6, d dcc into into top of ch 3 [21] 4   ch 3, turn turn,, dc-inc into next st, (2 dc, dcinc) x 6, skip last st  (do not work into top of  ch 3) [27] 5   ch 3, turn turn,, 26 dc, working last dc i nto top of ch 3 [27]

4 sc) x 6 [60] x 6 [66] 5 sc) x 6 [72] [72] for 2 rnds

Fasten off and weave in yarn end.

 ba  b ack (hair) The back of the head is worked in the same way as the front, omitting the last round.

Next we add some curls and a part line. 6   ch 10, turn, turn , start in 2nd ch from hook and work back down ch, sc-inc, hdc-inc, 2

In hair colour 1-13 as for front of head (above) Do not fasten off. Leave working loop on hook and continue on to assemble head.

head assembly Continue in hair colour. Place colour.  Place front and back head pieces together (wrong-sides facing). Insert hook into next st on back piece and then into a corresponding st on front piece. Work a sc to join. Make another 41 sc around, working through both front and back head pieces.

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dc-inc, 5 dc, skip 2 st and sl st into next st on row 5  (curl #1) , 14 sc across row 5, ch 6, 5 sc-inc back down ch, sl st into next st on row 5  (curl #2) , sc, hdc, dc, htr, 4 tr, working last tr into top of ch 3 7   ch 3, turn turn,, 4 dc, dc-dec [6] 8   ch 2, turn turn,, dc-dec, 3 dc, working last dc into top of ch 3 [5] 9   ch 10, turn turn,, start in 2nd ch from hook and work back down ch, sc-inc, hdc-inc, 2 dc-inc, 5 dc, skip 2 sts, sl st into next st on row 8  (curl # 3) Fasten off, leaving an extra long yarn tail.

Garden Fairy

 

Fairies, Elves & Fantasy

patterns by oche pots

hair (continued) legs Position fringe on front of head, aligned with the section of the joining rnd of sc worked in hair colour. Gently pull the

The legs and body are worked in one piece, from the feet up.  

fringe into position, securing with dressmaking pins as you go.

Make 2, start in pink 1 5 sc into MC [5] 2   5 inc [10] 3- 5   10 sc [10] for 3 rnds

Using a tapestry needle, sew fringe in place, working into the row ends and securing to the joining rnd of sc on the head, and across row 5 of the fringe. For curls #1 and #3, secure the 5 dc at base of  curl to side of head, leaving the inc sts free to curl outwards.

Change to skin colour 6   bl o   10 sc [10] 7-29 10 sc [10] for 16 rnds Change to pink

First leg

flower

30   6 sc, do not finish rnd   [6] sl st into next st and fasten off 

Start in gold, using a 3mm hook. Work in joined rnds (ch 3 counts as a stitch). See special stitch instructions (page 4) on how to work the 'popcorn stitch' (PC). 1 8 sc into MC, sl st into 1st sc to join [8 ]

Second leg 30   10 sc [10] sl st to finish but do not cut yarn, continue on to join legs From second leg, ch 4. Join 4.  Join to first leg by working a sc directly into the next st on the first leg (the st into which we made the sl st). Mark this as first st of rnd 31.

Change to white 2 ch 3 to make a 'starting PC' in first st, PC into each of remaining 7 sts, sl st around starting ch 3 to join [16] 3   ch 3 to make make a 'starting PC' in ch 3

31   with legs joined, work another 9 sc around first leg, 4 sc along ch, sc into next st on 2nd leg (at base of ch), work another 9 sc around second leg, 4 sc back along ch [28] 32   5 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 8 sc [30] 33   30 sc [30] 34   (4 sc, inc) x 6 [36] 35-39   36 sc [36] for 5 rnds 35-39

space 2, 2inPC into 7 ch sl 1 st spaces,from workrnd 1 PC final chnext 1 space, around starting ch 3 to join [32] Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Secure flower to fringe.

face

Pause here to stuff the legs and continue stuffing as we work the body.

Using black embroidery floss, floss , embroider mouth on face, centred, 3 to 4 sts wide and between rnds 9 and 10. Add small lips in pink. Embroider eyes in black either side of the mouth. Eye arc should be roughly 5 to 6 rnds wide and 2 to 3 sts tall.

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 wings

 body Continue in pink 40   bl o   8 sc, dec, dec, 16 sc, dec, dec, 8 sc 41   34 sc [34]

Make 2, in pale pink [34] 1   6 sc into MC

[6]

2 6 inc [12] 3   (3 sc, inc) x 3 [15] 4- 6   15 sc [15] for 3 rnds 7   (3 sc, dec) x 3 [12] 8-10   12 sc [12] for 3 rnds 8-10 11   (2 sc, dec) x 3 [9] 12-15   9 sc [9] for 4 rnds 12-15

42   7 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 7 sc [32] 43   32 sc [32] 44   7 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 6 sc [30] 45   7 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 5 sc [28] 46   7 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc [26] 47   7 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 3 sc [24] 48   6 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 3 sc [22] 49   6 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 2 sc [20] 50   6 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, sc [18] 51-52   18 sc [18] for 2 rnds 51-52

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Wings do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and add embroidery detail in gold before sewing to the back of the body, working around all 9 sts on final rnd of wings.

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Add embroidery detail to body, using white, green and gold yarn. You may wish to add the skirt here (see page 8), before attaching wings, arms and head.

arms Make 2, in skin colour 1   6 sc into MC [6] 2 (2 sc, inc) x 2 [8] 3-22   8 sc [8] for 20 rnds 3-22 Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff  lower half of arms. Using a tapestry needle, sew arms  arms   to either side of body, over rnd 49.

final assembly Use a tapestry needle and yarn tail from body to sew the body to the head, working through all 18 sts around neck opening. Secure to the head at least 2 rnds deep on both front stuffing and back of the head. Add extra tosections neck before finishing.

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patterns by oche pots

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skirt In teal, using a 3mm hook. Orient work feet up. Attach yarn at the back, to last unworked front loop from rnd 39. 1 ch 2  (does not count as a st), st) , 36 hdc, sl st into first hdc to join [36] 2   ( make a 'petal' 'petal' using  using instructions below, skip 1 st, sl st into next 2 sts) sts ) x 12, 12 , working the last sl st of the final repeat into the base of the first ch 5 Fasten off and weave in yarn ends.

petal instructions Photos 1-3 Ch 5 and working into same st, make six (6) unfinished tr (YO twice, insert hook into st, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops, YO draw through 2 loops, leaving 2 loops on hook x 6). We have 7 loops on the hook hook.. Photos 4-5 Next, we progressively take the loops off  the hook. To do this, YO and draw through 1 loop, YO and draw through 2 loops. Continue to YO and draw through 2 loops until only 1 loop remains on the hook. hook . Photos 6-8 Working back across the 6 tr sts (and ignoring the space next to the ch 5), sc into next 3 spaces between sts, ch 2, sc back into same space, sc between next 2 spaces. Photos 9-10 Ch 5 and sl st back into same st into which we worked the tr sts. Petal complete! To move to the next petal, skip 1 st and sl st into next 2 sts. Work 12 petals in total.

Congratulations on finishing Hana, your little Garden Fairy!

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Fairies, Elves & Fantasy

patterns by oche pots

key pattern steps (examples)

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