French Fashion Design

Published by Melbourne Fine Art Gallery Melbourne, March 2011 ISBN: 978-1-875311-01-9 Bryan Collie Director Mara Sison Curator 422 Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC, 3000. Phone: +61396701707 Mobile: 0418391948 Website: www.melbournefineart.com.au Email: [email protected] Copyright: Melbourne Fine Art Design: Gema Yugi, Bryan Collie and Mara Sison Layout and Print Management by: Gema Yugi, [email protected] Copyright@2011 Melbourne Fine Art Gallery all rights reserved. No part of this catalogue may be reproduced in any form or means without any permission from the publisher.

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Fashion illustration and the beginning of clothing production existed side by side. The industry flourished when people became more curious of fashion styles from the rest of the world. Fashion illustration was mainly used as advertisement for publications, designers, and fashion houses. It allowed them to portray the latest trends to the public. Illustrations from the early 19th century range from engravings, etchings and woodcarvings. They were later replaced by full colour printing, which emphasised the brilliant colours and detail of clothing styles. It was during the 1930s, when publications began turning to photography for their images. This lead to the demise of the art of illustrating fashion. Immediately, fashion illustration played a minor role in the industry where it was once the central medium of portraying clothing imagery. But despite its sudden demise in publications, the style of fashion photography was initially influenced by fashion illustrations. Early fashion photography recreated the hand drawn stiff and exagerrated poses, and studio prop backgrounds. These artworks are excellent examples of late 19th century theatrical costumes and 1940s women’s fashion. Furthermore, it exhibits the creativity, vision, and invention brought by the artistry of fashion illustrators. This collection presents three different examples of visualising fashion: From Alfred Choubrac’s intricate theatrical costumes in gouche, to watercolour illustrations attributed to the House of Jacques Heim, to the art of early fashion photography from Studio Franz and Studio Dorvyne in Paris.

Mara Sison Curator

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Alfred Choubrac

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(1853 – 1902)

Choubrac was a Parisian painter and illustrator who was exceptionally known for poster making. His posters displayed advertisements for the cabaret and other performances that reigned the French music scene. Choubrac has created posters for the Folies Bergère and La Cigale in Paris. One of his most famous posters is Au Joyeux Moulin Rouge based on the popular Moulin Rouge His images were dominated by the main feature of these concerts – beautiful French performers in their theatrical costumes. He honoured French ensemble through his intricate illustrations of mens and womens theatrical costumes. Choubrac represented fashionable women of frills, lace, and feather boas. Later, he accomplished his illustrations of dazzling costumes of the Parisian stage with silver and gold, and daring designs that exposed the skin. His art of poster making has been continually revered by numerous reproductions to this day.

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Peignes Gouche on paper 8

Le Pot Au Lait Gouche on paper 9

Lueur D’une Chandelle Gouche on paper 10

Lumière à Gaz Gouche on paper 11

La Reine Gouche on paper 12

Little Bo Peep Gouche on paper 13

Femme Danseur I Gouche on paper 14

Femme Danseur II Gouche on paper 15

Jeune Fille Gouche on paper 16

Rouge Théière Gouche on paper 17

Danseur I: Viscusi Gouche on paper 18

Danseur II Gouche on paper 19

Le Sucrier Gouche on paper 20

Tasse à Thé Gouche on paper 21

Jacques Heim

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(1899 – 1967)

“We do not expect the couturier to show us new dresses each season, but a conception of woman as well, for whom the dresses have been designed.” - Jacques Heim (taken from Couture: The Great Designers, 1985)

Heim was a Parisian fashion designer who specialised in women’s furs and coats. He was born to Isadore and Jeanne Heim who began their fur business in 1898. When Jacques joined the family venture, he initiated a couture line of coats, evening dresses, and suits that became a trend amongst other designers. Fashion that brought forward a woman’s silhouette that was once hidden by loose fitting Art Deco fashion. Fur was truly prominent in his designs – from the smallest detail of fur collars to beautiful full fur coats. Heim took over his parents’ business in 1930 and expanded. His efforts proved to be a success as his maison de couture grew and eventually springing branches in Biarritz and Cannes. In 1937, he created a line for younger women in which was appropriately called Jacques Heim Jeunes Filles. The collection included long dinner dresses, day dresses, and dancing dresses that were polished with softer fabrics and colours. Heim was also known as a great innovator, introducing the “smallest bathing suit” into the fashion market which eventually led to the bikini. Between 1958 to 1962, Heim became the official dressmaker of Mme. Charles de Gaulle and was also at the time the president of Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Heim left his maison couture to his son Philippe Jacques when he passed in 1967. Jacques Heim was not afraid of introducing new fabrics and styles into his design. He was a designer who truly understood the silhouette of a woman, and designed clothing of timeless elegance and appeal.

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Woman in a winter ensemble. Yellow double breasted jacket and matching pleated skirt. The outfit is finished with a white fur head cover and hand muff. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper

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Woman in a winter ensemble. Yellow coat with a wide stand up collar, gathered waistline, and wide long sleeves. Outfit finished with a small yellow hat with a face veil. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper

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Woman in a dinner ensemble. Plaid bolero over a yellow blouse, matched with a high fitting black A-line skirt. The outfit is finished with a yellow hat and short white gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 26

Woman in a suit. Yellow with black polka dots jacket, high collar with three-piece sleeves, peplum waistline, with matching skirt. Finished with a black hat. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 27

Woman in a winter ensemble. Yellow coat with a V-line collar, long thin sleeves, and matching cape and gloves. Finished with a black fur stole and hand muff, with a black beret. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 28

Woman in a suit. Striped reversible flared coat over a yellow blouse. Matching skirt with patch pockets. Outfit finished with a yellow scarf and long fitting gloves, and a small black hat. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 29

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Yellow gown with a stand up collar, loose fitting flaired sleeves in a plaid pattern. Waistline fitted with a wide black belt.c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 30

Woman in a winter ensemble. Full yellow coat with a wide V-Line collar, wide turn up sleeves, and a black beret with a face veil. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 31

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Green and white polka dot jacket, 3/4 layered sleeves and bow detail with matching pleated skirt. Finished with short white gloves. Three studies. Full dress suit, bow, and skirt.c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 32

Woman in a suit. Green with white polka jacket with ¾ roll up sleeves, peplum waist-line, and matching skirt. Outfit finished with a wide white hat with a face veil, and short white gloves.c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 33

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Double breasted emerald green gown with slim long sleeves, wide collar, gathered waistline finished with a bow. Small illustration of the back of the gown. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 34

Woman in a suit. Blue lined jacket with external patch pockets with matching skirt, and a black fur hand muff. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 35

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Powder blue jacket with a stand up collar, peplum waistline, patch pockets, and matching pleated skirt. Outfit finished with short white gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 36

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Powder blue dress with intricate beading on the bodice, and peplum waistline. Outfit finished with matching powder blue gloves and and a black fur stole. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 37

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Powder blue bolero over a black silk blouse with a matching powder blue skirt. Finished with short black gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 38

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Powder blue jacket with a bow collar, and black and white polka dot puffed layered sleeves. Matching powder blue skirt and white gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 39

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Navy blue dress with matching shawl overlay with white floral detail, matched with a navy blue head piece and white long gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 40

Woman in dinner ensemble. Double breasted navy dress with stand up collar, matching shawl and short white gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 41

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Black bolero over a black dress with medium graduated overskirt. Finished with a wide assymetrical hat. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 42

Woman in a cocktail dress. Tight fitting black and brown dress with a low neckline, keyhole detail on the neckline and patch pockets, and a stand up collar. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 43

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Black double breasted assymetrical jacket, high cut collar, with matching A-line skirt and short white gloves. Illustration of the backview of the ensemble. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 44

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Black fitted dress with black lace overlay tied with a bow, skirt with a black drape. Outfit finished with short black gloves and white fur stole. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 45

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Black jacket with matching skirt with a black drape. Outfit finished with black gloves, and a small black hat with a face veil. Illustration of the backview of the ensemble. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 46

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Black tight fitting dress with red tassels on the bodice. Outfit finished with a large black fur cape and small black hat with black and red veil. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 47

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Black and white dress with thick black fur lining. Finished with a small black hat. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 48

Woman in a coat. White coat with overlay, nipped waistline and lined hem. Rowed skirt and sleeves. Outfit finished with a large black assymetrical hat with short black gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 49

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. White and black dress with black high cut collar, long sleeves, layered detail on the waistline, with a flowing black skirt. Outfit finished with a black hat with a white face veil. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 50

Woman in a suit. White loose jacket with boxy shoulders over navy blue turtle neck with lined bodice and patch pockets, and pleated white skirt. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 51

Woman in a suit. Red and white tailored suit with black A-line skirt. Outfit finished with short black gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 52

Woman in a dinner ensemble. Red jacket with external patch pockets and slit back detail, matched with a black plaid skirt (Backview). Illustration of front view with a drape. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 53

Woman in a coat. Double breasted red coat with a wide collar and turn up sleeves. Outfit finished with short white gloves. c. 1940s Watercolour on paper 54

Fashion Photography

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Woman in a dinner ensemble. Short jacket with a fur lining over mid-length dress. Outfit finished with a round hat. 58

Woman in a coat. Mid-length tweed coat with patch pockets and three large buttons. Outfit finished with a scarf, assymetrical hat, and white gloves. 59

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Long sleeve dress with floral embroidery on the bodice and right sleeve, with a white sash around the waistline. 60

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Embroidered bodice with black fur trimming, and middle metal zipper. Finished with a small assymetrical hat with a face veil, white gloves, and bag. 61

Woman in a coat. Full coat with puffed sleeves, with floral embroidered detail on the bodice. Outfit finished with an assymetrical hat and fur scarf. 62

Woman in a cocktail ensemble. Full stripe gown with a gathered waistline finished with a large bow, puffed short sleeves and a sweeping skirt. Bow head piece. 63

Woman in a day ensemble. Mid-length stripe dress with a gathered bodice, and puffed ¾ sleeves. Finished with a medium belt and an assymetrical hat. 64

Woman in a coat, Paris. Knee-length coat, with embroidered detail, high cut collar, tied with a bow. Detail of a polka dot dress slightly showing under the coat. Finished with black gloves, clutch bag and assymetrical hat. 65