Formulas Ingredients and Formulation of Cosmetics

Hiroshi Iwata

•

Kunio Shimada

Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics Technology Products in

of Skin- and Hair-Care

Japan

^ Springer

Contents

Part I 1

Ingredients and Productions of Cosmetics

Developing the Formulations 1.1

Parts of the

1.1.2

Efficacies and Effects

4

1.1.3

Purpose of Use

4

1.1.4

Method of Use

6

Properties

Body

'.

and Product Forms

1.2.3

Ingredients

for

Giving

6 the Product Form

for Stabilizing the Products

6

Ingredients Ingredients for Giving Efficacies,

7

Effects, and Concepts

7

1.2.4

2

4

6

Constituents of Cosmetics 1.2.2

1.4

3

1.1.1

1.2.1

1.3

3

Classification and Categories of Cosmetics

1.1.5

1.2

of Cosmetics

Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms

7

8

1.3.1

Toilet Soaps and Cleansers

8

1.3.2

Shampoos

8

1.3.3

Conditioners

1.3.4

Creams

1.3.5

Leave-on Hair Care Products

1.3.6

Cosmetics

1.3.7

Facial Toner

Points

to

Note for

8 10

Mainly Consisting

Using Ingredients

10 of Oil

10 11

in Cosmetics

13

Raw Materials of Cosmetics

21

2.1

21

Oils 2.1.1

Hydrocarbons

22

2.1.2

Vegetable Oils and Fats

25

2.1.3

Waxes

27

ix

Contents

X

2.2

2.1.4

Esters

32

2.1.5

34

2.1.6

Higher Alcohols Fatty Acids

2.1.7

Silicones

39

Surfactants

39

2.2.1

Anionic Surfactants

40

2.2.2

Cationic Surfactants

50

2.2.3

2.3

2.2.4

Tertiary Amphoteric

2.2.5

Nonionic Surfactants

Surfactants

57 60

67

Polymers 2.3.1

Structure of

2.3.2

Purposes of Using Polymers Dissolving Polymers

67

Polymers

68

76

Glycols

77

2.4.1

78

Kinds of

Glycols Purposes of Using Glycols

2.4.2 2.5

55

Amines

2.3.3 2.4

36

Other

78 80

Ingredients

2.5.1

2.5.2 2.5.3 2.5.4

for

Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts

Ingredients Coloring Agents

80

Scenting Agents Ingredients for Stabilizing Products

81

81 81

References 3

86

Emulsions 3.1

Designing 3.1.1

3.2

87 the Formulations of Emulsions

88 89

3.1.2

Selecting

3.1.3

Selecting Oily Constituents

Factors

87

Formulation of Emulsifiers

Surfactants

Affecting Viscosity

and

91

Stability

and Preventive Measures 3.2.1

94

Separation and Viscosity

Increase

High Temperatures Separation and Viscosity

Increase

94

at

3.2.2

at the Room

3.3

Temperature

3.2.3

Effects of Salts

3.2.4

Factors

Causing

94

'.

95

Destabilization of Emulsions

97

Emulsification

98

3.3.1

Emulsification Method

98

3.3.2

Emulsification Device

99

3.3.3

Conditions of Emulsification

99

Reference 4

102

Sensory Properties

of Cosmetics

4.1

Sensory Properties

Expressions 4.1.1

of

Classification of

Expressions

103 :..

103 104

Contents

x'

4.1.2

4.2

4.2.1 4.3

4.3.2 4.3.3

5

105

Evaluation

Points to Note in Human Sensory Evaluation

Sensory Properties of Alkyl 4.3.1

Part II

104

Favored Senses

Sensory

Sensory Properties

105

108

Groups

of Oils

108

of Surfactants

109

Sensory Properties Sensory Properties of Glycols

110

Formulas and Productions of Cosmetics

Practice of Designing Cosmetics Formulations 5.1

114 114

5.1.1

Combinations of

5.1.2

Toilet

5.1.3

Cream

Soaps

115

5.1.4

Liquid Soaps Viscous Soaps Cleansing Cosmetics

115

5.1.5 5.1.6 5.2

113

Soaps and Cleansers

Ingredients and Products

114

Soaps

Shampoos 5.2.1 Purposes

117 118

i

120

Shampoo Formulation and Constituents

of

5.2.2

Anionic Surfactants

121

5.2.3

Amphoteric Surfactants

122

5.2.4

Cationic

122

5.2.5

Polymers Pearlizing Agents

5.2.6

Influence of Salts

5.2.7

Thickeners and Bubble Stabilizers

5.2.8

Ingredients

5.2.9

Efficacious

126 130 ,

5.2.11

130

and

131

Conceptual Components Acidity Regulators Sensory Evaluation of Shampoo

5.2.12 Methods of 5.2.13

Components

Sensory Characteristics of Conditioners Adjusting the Viscosity of Conditioners

5.3.3

Basic

5.3.5

Prescriptions and Constituents

131

132 132

139 140 141

Sensory Prescriptions of Conditioners of Various Sensory

148

Characteristics

153

Evaluation

157

Skin Creams 5.4.1

131

139

5.3.2

5.3.4

5.4

Adding Scenting Agents

Designing Shampoo Formulations

Hair Conditioners

5.3.1

130

for Improving the Feel of Use

5.2.10 Stabilizers, Preservatives, and

5.3

120

Constituents of Skin Creams of

Constituents

157 157

5.4.2

Investigation

5.4.3

Selection of Emulsifiers

159

5.4.4

Addition of

163

5.4.5

Selection of Glycols

Oily

Polymers

164

Contents

xii

5.5

5.6

5.4.6

Formulation of Low-Viscosity Creams

164

5.4.7

Formulation of Gel Creams

165

5.4.8

Formulation of Massage Creams

166

Leave-On Hair Care Cosmetics

167

5.5.1

Hair Creams

167

5.5.2

Cationic Hair Conditioners

171

5.5.3

Hair Waxes

173

5.5.4

Hair Gels

181

5.5.5

Hair Mist Liquids

192

5.5.6

Hair Oils

Cosmetics 5.6.1

5.7

198

Mainly Consisting

200

of Oils

Characteristics and Techniques for Designing Formulations

200

5.6.2

Liquid Oil

201

5.6.3

Solid and

Cosmetics

204

Stick-Type Cosmetics

208

Facial Toner Characteristics of Facial Toner

5.7.1

Sensory Safety of Ingredients 5.7.3 Properties and Constituents of Facial Toner Cosmetics not Containing Specific Ingredients 5.8.1 Transparent Shampoo Consisting of Ingredients of Vegetable Origin 5.7.2

5.8

5.8.2

Pearl

208

209 211 212

Shampoo Not Containing Sodium 213

Laureth Sulfate

Causing Buildup of Hair

5.8.3

Shampoo

5.8.4

Hair Conditioner Not

5.8.5

Cream Using Food Additives

5.8.6

Gel Cream Not

Not

214

Containing 214

Specific Ingredients

Index

208

as

Surfactants

Containing Specific Ingredients

215 216

219