Foods of the World Supplement Number Two

Jupplement :Njgnber 'Two

goods ofthe 'World

t

Jupplement �mber CJ'wo BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS

(i)ontents How to Succeed in Deep Frying .......................... 2 .

Stir-fried Chicken with Pine Nuts and Hot Peppers . .

Breaded Veal Cutlets Coffee Ring

(Wiener Schnitzel)

.

. . .

7

.................. 9

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Potato Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 Stir-fried Shrimp with Peas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Stir-fried Chicken with Fresh Mushrooms .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Recipe Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Menu Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Sources for Foods and Utensils ............................ 22

c;Joods ofthe 'World Tl ME- L1 FE BOOKS. NEW YORK

© 1969

Time Inc. All rigl11s reserved. Puhl1shcd simultaneously in Canada.

:Jfow

to Jucceed in CJJeep :Frying

In almost every nation where fats and oils are in good supply, deep frying is an im­ portant way of cooking. It is impossible to imagine the British cuisine without fish and chips, the Italian without fritto misto or the Japanese without tempura. Americans probably have more kinds of oils and fats to choose from than any other people in the world, and yet deep frying is an art neglected by United States cooks. Ex­ cept when preparing French fried potatoes, most Americans rarely use the technique. Part of the reason for this neglect is that fried foods have a reputation for being hard to digest and high in calories. The reputation is undeserved, for fried foods need not be ex­ cessively fatty, and it is fattiness that many people object to. Fats do take a longer time to digest than carbohydrates or proteins, be­ cause the enzymes that digest them are in the intestines, not in the stomach. This is the reason fats give that filled-up feeling, but the time needed for digestion should not be confused with indigestibility. The calorie in­ dictment is justified; fats make available more calories than other nutrients do. How much these drawbacks apply to fried foods depends on how the frying is done. In well-managed deep frying, some foods ab­ sorb little fat, and may be less filling than the same foods fried by other techniques. By definition, deep frying is the process of cooking by plunging food into hot fat or oil. This firms and seals the surface instantly, trapping air and moisture inside; the mois­ ture steams the food to the desired degree. Properly done, deep frying crisps and browns the outside of the food, but keeps it moist and tender within. Successful deep frying,

2

however, is not as simple as it sounds. This part of the Supplement will deal with facts you should know about fats and oils, equip­ ment, food preparation, and the techniques necessary to ensure perfectly fried foods.

Fats and Oils Used in Deep Frying From a culinary standpoint, fats and oils are almost synonymous. Fats (and the hydro­ genated shortenings) are solid at room tem­ perature while oils are liquid, but both perform much the same function in cooking. Despite their similarities, all fats and oils have individual characteristics and one can­ not always be substituted for another. The most obvious difference between corn oil and olive oil, for example, or between lard and vegetable shortening, is in flavor. The taste of a fat or oil affects the taste of the food and this is a consideration in deep fry­ ing-though perhaps less crucial than in some other kinds of cooking. A less obvious characteristic of a fat or oil is its so-called smoking point. At high temperatures, the components of fats and oils begin to break down chemically and give off a continuous stream of smoke. With fur­ ther heating, they will flash into flame. When the fat or oil reaches the point of smoking, breakdown products are already forming. They are likely to develop a strong odor, impart a disagreeable taste and odor to the food, and even cause the fried food to irritate the stomach. Because deep drying must be accomplished at fairly high temper­ atures-3500 to 400°-tO seal the food and avoid fat absorption, only fats and oils with smoking points above that temperature range are good candidates for the frying kettle.

Equipment Used in Deep Frying Restaurant-type deep-frying saucepan with basket Electric deep fryer with basket

Deep-frying saucepan with basket

Mercury-tube deep-frying thermometer Tongs

Wire skimmer

with kettle clamp

Slotted spoon

Deep-frying can be a pleasure when you have the right tools to work with

(Jee following page}. 3

The all-purpose vegetable oils are ideal for deep frying. Whether made from corn, cot­ tonseed, soybean or peanut oil, they are all bland in flavor and have smoking points well above 400°. Many of these same oils form the basis of solid vegetable shortenings; chemical processing converts the oils into al­ most tasteless, soft and creamy fats that, like their liquid counterparts, are suitable for deep frying. However, their smoking points may be somewhat lower. Lard has a distinct and, for many palates, attractive flavor. If you have a taste for it, the smoking point of high-quality lard is high enough to be safe for deep frying. The flavor of olive oil is too pronounced, and its smoking point too low for it to be a good candidate for the deep fryer. Butter and margarine are also best reserved for other uses; they contain protein and their smoking points are relatively low. None of the ordinary fats or oils suited the famous French chef Auguste Escoffier; he preferred to render the fat that encases beef kidney. (This fat is hard to obtain now­ adays, and many fats used today were un­ available to Escoffier.) In his time, the beef fat was relatively inexpensive, a prime con­ sideration for frying on a large scale. To render beef kidney fat (or pork, if that is more readily available) is something of an undertaking: Remove all the bits of mem­ brane and cut the fat into small pieces. Place the fat in a heavy skillet or saucepan and cook it over low heat, meanwhile squeezing and pressing down on the pieces with the back of a spoon or table fork. When all of the fat has been rendered into liquid, strain it through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Store tightly covered and refrigerated.

Equipment for Deep Frying The secret of deep frying is to get the oil or fat to exactly the right temperature-and keep it there throughout the cooking pro­ cess. The best way to do this is to use either a thermostatically controlled electric deep

4

fryer or a deep-frying saucepan with a ther­ mometer clipped to it. The main advantage of an electric fryer is the ease of controlling temperature. If you use a top-of-the-stove pan, choose one that is heavy enough to sit on the stove steadily without tipping, and wide enough in diam­ eter to accommodate a reasonable amount of food. The rule of thumb is that the fryer should be filled about half full-and you will need 2 to 3 inches of oil, so be sure that the pan is at least 4 inches deep. If you do not have a special pan, substitute a deep electric saucepan. Or use a plain deep saucepan or Dutch oven and a deep-frying thermometer. In this case select a pan heavy enough to heat the oil evenly, but not so heavy that it takes overlong to heat. A pan made specifically for deep frying comes equipped with a perforated metal or wire basket, making it possible to immerse a number of small pieces of food in the oil at one time and lift them out together when they are cooked. Such baskets, designed to fit into most 3- to 5-quart saucepans, are also sold separately. A basket helps ensure uni­ form cooking and often saves time. For dealing with larger foods, or in lieu of using a basket, equip yourself with sturdy tongs and a slotted spoon or wire skimmer like those shown on page 3. The spoon can help keep the oil clear of food fragments dur­ ing the frying process. For draining deep-fried foods, keep paper towels at hand. And for saving the oil for future use, you will need a large sieve, plenty of cheesecloth, and a suitable container (one that the same oil originally came in is con­ venient because it is already labeled).

Foods for Deep Frying Almost every sort of raw food from fruit to fish can be deep fried. So, too, can cooked foods, especially when chopped and made into croquettes or a filling for pastry. In most cases raw foods are cut into small pieces before they are fried so they can cook

through in the time they take to brown. These pieces should be as nearly the same size as possible so they will cook in the same length of time. The smaller the pieces, the faster they will fry-thus reducing the danger of their absorbing fat (and calories). Frozen foods should be thoroughly de­ frosted and, if necessary, drained. Sometimes food goes into the deep fryer without any sort of coating-French fried potatoes are a familiar instance. More typ­ ically, food is coated in one of several ways. The simplest method is flouring it and shak­ ing off the excess. Or it may be dipped into flour, then into eggs or an egg yolk and oil mixture, and finally crumbed. In many recipes, such as the Italian fritto misto or the Japanese tempura, food is coated with a batter made from egg, flour and liq­ uid to form a casing less penetrable than the simple coatings. Still more complicated, but delectable, are the foods wrapped in pastry before frying. Crumb or pastry coating may be applied hours in advance; the food should then be re­ frigerated until it is to be fried. Flouring, on the other hand, must be done at the last min­ ute lest the flour absorb the moisture of the food. And most batters, too, require last­ minute application; they are made with beat­ en egg white, which should be added just before the batter is used and the food fried.

Techniques of Deep Frying Once begun, the actual deep-frying process requires close attention. The food should be arranged in orderly fashion and be easily ac­ cessible. If small batches must be kept hot, preheat the oven to 2 50° and have ready a large shallow roasting pan or baking dish lined with a double layer of paper towels. Preheat the fat or oil to the required tem­ perature. This may take 15 to 20 minutes, but remember that correct oil temperature is essential: if it is too low, the food absorbs too much oil; if too high, the food may char before cooking through and the oil may be

spoiled by chemical breakdown. The only ac­ curate guide to temperature is the thermo­ static control on an electric appliance, or a deep-frying thermometer. Lacking these it is possible to estimate the temperature of the fat by dropping a one-inch cube of bread into it. The cube will brown in one minute when the fat is at approximately 3 75 If the food is very moist or is to be floured or dipped in batter, first pat it completely dry with paper towels. Surface moisture will make the hot fat foam and it might bubble up over the sides of the pan. If the food is floured, shake off the excess; if coated with batter, drain the pieces thoroughly. Place the food in a single layer in the bas­ ket and lower it into the hot fat; should the fat bubble up too actively, lift the basket out and wait a few seconds before lowering it again. If you are not using a basket, take one or two pieces of food at a time in tongs or a slot­ ted spoon, hold them close to the surface of the fat and gently drop them in. Never try to rush the frying process by crowding the pan. The pieces should fit eas­ ily in a single layer with some space between them. If jammed, they are likely to stick to­ gether. Also, adding too many pieces at a time lowers the temperature of the oil. As soon as the food is fried to the desired de­ gree, remove it from the hot oil, drain it on paper towels, and, if necessary, place it in the oven in the paper-lined baking pan to keep it warm. With a mesh skimmer or slotted spoon, skim the surface of the oil of all bits of food and loosened batter. Left in the pan, these particles will burn and discolor the oil. Check the temperature and let the oil reheat, if nec­ essary, before repeating the procedure with the next batch of food. o.

Saving Fats and Oils for Future Use Successful frying depends on having a deep layer of oil or fat in the pan-2 or 3 inches is the minimum to make sure of maintaining

5

a high enough heat. Skimping on oil is poor economy because unless the food is com­ pletely immersed it will not cook properly. Many cooks save the oil or fat for re-use. When you have finished frying, skim the oil thoroughly to remove as many particles of food as possible. Then cool it to room temperature. Strain it through a fine sieve lined with a double thickness of damp cheesecloth before returning it to the storage container. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use again, but be sure its label is legible before putting it away. Frying oil may pick up a taste from strong­ flavored foods such as fish; reserve oil used with them for frying similar foods and label the container accordingly. In any case, it is wise to smell and taste previously used oil be­ fore reheating it. Many cooks suggest that a sliced raw po­ tato, fried in oil that has been used for other food, will help to absorb unwanted flavors.

6

Safety Precautions Deep frying involves heating a large quan­ tity of oil to a very high temperature-the kind of operation that requires both care and caution. Check the cord of an electric pan to see that it is out of the way, where it cannot be bumped to tip the pan, and make sure that the pan sits steadily without wobbling. If you are deep frying at the stove, use a back burner, out of the reach of children. Choose a well-balanced flat-bottomed pan that is heavy enough not to tip easily. Place its handles so they will not be bumped. Should the oil flame for any reason, turn off the heat immediately. Drop a pot lid over the pan if the oil in the pan is burning; douse flames around it by sprinkling with salt or baking soda or by covering the whole area with a wet towel. Don't pick up the pan; air currents may blow the flames toward you. Never throw water on a grease fire-it will only spread the flame.

Sung-tzu-chi-ssu STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PINE NUTS AND HOT PEPPERS

2 whole chicken breasts about 3/4 pound each

112 cup pine nuts (pignolia nuts ) 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 egg white 1112 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine, or

iceberg ) 4 tablespoons peanut oil,

1 teaspoon finely shredded, peeled fresh ginger root

3 small,

fresh, hot chili peppers, finely

shredded

1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in

pale dry sherry

112 teaspoon sugar 8- 1 2 lettuce leaves ( Boston, bibb or PREPARE AHEAD:

or flavorless

vegetable oil

I

tablespoon cold chicken stock, fresh or canned, or cold water

1. One at a time, bone, skin and shred the chicken

breasts in the following fashion: Lay the whole chicken breast on its side on a chopping board. Holding the breast firmly in place with your hand, cut it lengthwise through the skin along the curved breastbone with a cleav­ er or sharp knife. Carefully free the meat from the bones with the cleaver. Then grasp the meat in one hand, and pull it off the bones and away from the skin-using the cleaver to free the meat if necessary. Turn the breast over and repeat on the other side. Remove each tube-shaped fillet from the boned breast meat, and pull out and discard the white tendon in each fillet. Lay the breast meat and fillets flat, and cut them horizontally into paper-thin slices. Now cut the slices into shreds about l!s inch wide and 1 l/2 to 2 inches long. °

2. Preheat the oven to 350 . Spread the pine nuts evenly on a jelly-roll pan or baking sheet and bake them in the center of the oven for about 5 minutes, or until they are lightly speckled with brown. Be careful not to let them burn. Reserve them in a bowl. 3. Place the 2 teaspoons of cornstarch in a small bowl, add the chicken shreds and toss them about until they are lightly coated. Add the egg white, salt, wine and sugar, and stir them with the chicken until they are thoroughly mixed together. 4. Separate the lettuce leaves, wash them under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels. Arrange them on a serving platter and refrigerate. 5. Have the above ingredients, and the ginger, chili peppers and cornstarch

mixture within easy reach. TO cooK:

Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat for 30 sec­

onds. Pour in 1 tablespoon of the oil, swirl it about in the pan and heat for another 30 seconds, turning the heat down to moderate if the oil be­ gins to smoke. Add the chili peppers, stir-fry for a minute, then scoop

Continued on next page

7

them out with a slotted spoon and set them aside in a small dish. Pour the remaining 3 tablespoons of the oil into the pan, heat for 30 seconds and add the ginger. Stir for a few seconds and drop in the chicken mixture. Stir-fry over moderate heat for 1 or 2 minutes, or until the chick­ en turns firm and white. Stir in the chili peppers and cook only long enough­ about 10 seconds-to heat the peppers through. Give the cornstarch mixture a quick stir to recombine it and pour it in the pan. Cook for a few seconds, stirring constantly, until all the ingredients are coated with a light, clear glaze. Immediately transfer the entire contents of the pan to a heated platter, and serve at once with the pine nuts sprinkled on top as a garnish and the lettuce leaves arranged attractively on another plate as wrappers. To eat, each guest picks up a lettuce leaf in one hand or lays it flat on a plate. About 2 tablespoonfuls of the chicken mixture are then placed in the center of the leaf and the leaf is folded in half, enclosing the chicken within it. The lettuce is rolled into a loose cylinder that can be held in the fingers and eaten. As a main course, this will serve 4 to 6. As part of a Chinese meal, it will serve 6 to 8 or even 10. Revised from the first edition of The Cooking of Chtna.

8

Wiener Schnitzel BREADED VEAL CUTLETS

To serve

4

2 eggs 2 tablespoons water 2 pounds leg of veal, cut into slices 114 inch thick Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

114 cup flour 1 cup fine bread crumbs 11/z cups lard

Beat the eggs with the water only long enough to combine them. Sprinkle the veal slices liberally with salt and pepper, dip them in flour and shake off the excess; next dip them in the beaten eggs and finally in the bread crumbs. Gently shake any excess crumbs from the cutlets and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. Heat the lard in a heavy 12-inch skillet until a light haze forms over it, then add the cutlets. Cook over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until they are brown, using tongs to turn them. Serve immediately, gar­ nished with lemon wedges or anchovy butter sauce. NOTE:

Schnitzel

is common in Germany as well as Austria. To prepare a

classic German version,

Schnitzel a Ia Holstein,

cook the cutlets as described

above. Then top each cutlet with a fried egg garnished with anchovy fillets and sprinkled with a few capers. If you wish, you may surround the cutlets with small portions of several of the following: smoked salmon, caviar, crayfish tails, lobster salad, sardines in oil, mushrooms, green beans or truffles. Revised from The Cooking of Vtenna's Emptre.

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9

10

Gugefhupf COFFEE RING

To make one 10-inch ring

' I

1 cup seedless raisins 114 cup dark rum 1 tablespoon butter, softened 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons whole blanched almonds 3/4 cup lukewarm milk ( 105° to 1 15°) 1 package active dry yeast A pinch of sugar

8 tablespoons ( 1 quarter-pound stick) unsalted butter, softened liz cup sugar 2 eggs 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon finely grated orange peel liz teaspoon vanilla extract 11z teaspoon salt 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

Place the raisins in a small bowl, pour in the rum and let them soak for about 30 minutes. Then drain and squeeze the raisins dry. Meanwhile, with a pastry brush and the 1 tablespoon of butter, lightly coat the bottom and sides of a 10-inch

Gugelhupf form,

or other ring mold

about 5 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter. Sprinkle the 2 tablespoons of flour over the butter, tipping the mold from side to side to spread the flour evenly. Then invert the mold and rap it sharply on a table to remove any excess flour. Arrange the almonds in a circle on the bottom of the mold and set aside. Pour l/4 cup of the lukewarm milk into a small, shallow bowl and sprinkle the yeast and a pinch of sugar over it. Let the yeast and sugar stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then stir to dissolve them completely. Set the bowl in a warm, draft­ free place, such as an unlighted oven, for about 5 minutes, or until the mix­ ture almost doubles in volume. Cream the 8 tablespoons of softened unsalted butter and the 1iz cup of sugar together by mashing and beating them against the sides of a bowl with a large spoon until light and fluffy. Beat in the yeast mixture and the re­ maining 1iz cup of lukewarm milk. Then add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beating constantly, add the sifted flour, 1iz cup at a time, and continue to beat until the dough is smooth. Then beat in the or­ ange peel, vanilla extract and salt; lightly but thoroughly stir in the raisins. Without disturbing the almonds, carefully fit the dough into the mold, spreading it out to the sides with a spatula. Cover with a kitchen towel and set in a warm, draft-free place for 11iz hours, or until the dough has risen to the top of the mold. Preheat the oven to 350°. Bake the

Gugelhupf in

the middle of the oven

for about 40 minutes, or until it is a light golden brown. Then turn it out on a cake rack to cool. Just before serving, dust lightly with confectioners' sugar.

Gugelhupf is traditionally served with afternoon coffee. Revised from the first edition of The Cooking of Vienna's Empire.

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12

Karto/felsuppe POTATO SOUP

To serve

6

to 8 medium-sized baking potatoes ( about 1112-2 pounds ) , peeled and cut into l-inch cubes 6 cups beef stock, fresh or canned l!z cup finely chopped onions 1/3 cup finely chopped scraped carrots 1/3 cup finely chopped leeks, white part only 1/3 cup finely chopped celery 1/z cup light cream 112 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 6

6 tablespoons

butter 4 slices fresh homemade type white bread cut into 112-inch squares 4 slices lean bacon, finely diced 1 medium-sized onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 medium-sized carrot, scraped and thinly sliced 1 medium-sized leek, white part only, thinly sliced 1 celery stalk, thinly sliced

In a heavy 8- to 10-inch skillet, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over mod­ erate heat. When the foam begins to subside, drop in the bread squares and cook, stirring constantly, until they are light brown on all sides. Transfer these croutons to a plate and set aside. In the same skillet, cook the diced bacon over moderate heat until it is brown and crisp. Discard the fat and trans­ fer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy 3- to 4-quart sauce­ pan. Add the sliced onion, carrot, leek and celery and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add the potatoes and 4 cups of stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer partially covered for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Meanwhile, combine the chopped onions, carrots, leeks and celery with the remaining 2 cups of stock in a 3- to 4-quart flameproof casserole. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Then with a large spoon force the cooked potato mixture and all its liquid through a fine sieve di­ rectly into the casserole containing the chopped vegetables, and discard any pulp left in the sieve. (Or more easily, puree the potato mixture through a food mill. Do not use a blender; it will make the puree too smooth.) Add the bacon, 112 teaspoon salt and a few grindings of pepper to the soup and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the cream. Simmer a mo­ ment or two, taste for seasoning, then serve the soup directly from the cas­ serole or ladle it into a heated tureen or individual soup bowls. Sprinkle the soup with the croutons just before serving.

13

14

Ch 'ao-hsia-jen STIR-FRIED SHRIMP WITH PEAS

pound raw shrimp in their shells (about 26 to 30 to the pound) 1 pound fresh peas, shelled, or 1 cup thoroughly defrosted frozen peas 2 teaspoons cornstarch egg white 2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine, or pale dry sherry 1

PREPARE AHEAD:

1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons peanut oil, or flavorless vegetable oil scallion, including the green top, cut into 2-inch lengths 3 slices peeled fresh ginger root, about 1 inch in diameter and 1/s inch thick

1. Shell the shrimp and, with a small, sharp knife, de­

vein them by making a shallow incision down the back and lifting out the black or white intestinal vein with the point of the knife. Wash the shrimp under cold running water and pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels. Split each shrimp in half lengthwise, then cut each of the halves in two, crosswise. 2. Blanch the freshly shelled peas by dropping them into a quart of rap­ idly boiling water and letting them boil uncovered for 5 to 7 minutes, or until just tender when tasted. Then drain the peas into a large sieve or col­ ander, and run cold water over them for a few seconds to stop their cook­ ing and set their color.

The frozen peas need only be

thoroughly

defrosted. 3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the shrimp and cornstarch, and toss them together with a spoon until each shrimp piece is lightly coated with cornstarch. Add the egg white, wine and salt, and stir them with the shrimp until they are thoroughly mixed together. 4. Have the shrimp, peas, oil, scallions and ginger within easy reach. TO COOK: Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat for 30 sec­

onds. Pour in the 2 tablespoons of oil, swirl it about in the pan and heat for another 30 seconds, turning the heat down to moderate if the oil be­ gins to smoke. Add the scallions and ginger, and stir-fry for 30 seconds to flavor the oil, then remove them with a slotted spoon and discard. Im­ mediately drop the shrimp into the pan and stir-fry them for 2 minutes, or until they turn pink. Do not let the shrimp overcook. Then drop in the peas and stir-fry for about

1 minute to heat the peas through. Transfer the

entire contents of the pan to a heated platter and serve at once. As a main course, this will serve 2 to 4. As part of a Chinese meal, it will serve 4 to 6. Revised from the first edition of The Cooking of Ch1na.

15

16

Mo-ku-chi-pien STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH FRESH MUSHROOMS

•

I

2 whole chicken breasts, about 3/4 pound each 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 egg white 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine, or pale dry sherry 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 pound fresh snow peas (frozen, thoroughly defrosted snow peas will do, but they will not have the crispness of the fresh ones) PREPARE AHEAD:

4 tablespoons peanut oil, or flavorless vegetable oil 1/4 pound fresh mushrooms, about 1 inch in diameter, sliced 1/4 inch thick 2 slices peeled fresh ginger root, about 1 inch in diameter and 1/s inch thick 1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold chicken stock or water

1. One at a time, skin, bone and slice the chicken

breasts in the following fashion: Lay the whole unsplit chicken breast on its side on a chopping board. Holding the breast firmly in place with your hand, cut it lengthwise through the skin along the curved breastbone with a cleaver or sharp knife. Carefully free the meat from the bones with the cleaver. Then grasp the meat in one hand, and pull it off the bones and away from the skin-using the cleaver to free the meat if necessary. Turn the breast over and repeat on the other side. Remove each tube­ shaped fillet from the boned breast meat, and pull out and discard the white tendon in each fillet. Lay the breast meat and fillets flat, and cut them into paper-thin slices. Then cut the slices into pieces about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide. 2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the chicken and 2 teaspoons of corn­ starch, and toss them about with a spoon until each piece is lightly coated. Add the egg white, wine and salt, and stir them with the chicken until they are thoroughly mixed together. 3. Snap off the tips of the fresh snow peas and, with a small, sharp knife, string the pea pods. 4. Have the chicken, snow peas, oil, mushrooms, ginger, and the corn­ starch mixture within easy reach. TO

COOK:

Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat for

about 30 seconds. Pour in 1 tablespoon of oil, swirl it about in the pan and heat for another 30 seconds, turning the heat down to moderate if the oil begins to smoke. Add the mushrooms and snow peas, and stir-fry over moderate heat for about 2 minutes. With a long spoon, transfer the vegetables to a platter and set aside. Add 3 tablespoons of oil to the pan and let it heat for 30 seconds. Drop in the ginger slices, cook for about 30 seconds, then remove and discard them. Immediately add the chicken and stir-fry

Continued on next page

17

for about 2 minutes, or until the pieces are firm and white. Return the re­ served cooked vegetables to the pan. Give the cornstarch mixture a quick stir to recombine it, add it to the pan and cook, stirring constantly for a few seconds, until the ingredients are coated with a light, clear glaze. Trans­ fer the entire contents of the pan to a heated platter and serve at once. As a main course, this will serve 4. As part of a Chinese meal, it will serve 6 to 8. Revised from the first edition of The Cooking of China.

RECIPE NOTES

Here are some useful comments and sug­ gestions to be copied into your Recipe Booklets. THE COOKING OF VIENNA"S EMPIRE

Filbert Slices: These little cookies, which are rather salty, should be served as snacks or cocktail food. THE COOKING OF SCANDINAVIA

Spritz Ring Cookies: Increase the butter to 112 pound. THE COOKING OF !TALY

Lasagne Besciamella Sauce: Use 6 tablespoons of butter. THE COOKING OF GERMANY

Red Cabbage with Apples: Use 1 cup of boil­ ing water. Dessert Dumplings with Vanilla Sauce: The dumplings require 2 3/4 cups of flour. AMERICAN COOKING

Broiled Long Island Duckling: Do not pour the pan drippings over the duck. THE COOKING OF CHINA

Almond Cookies: Use 21!2 cups of all-purpose flour and 112 teaspoon of baking soda. Peking Duck: Do not add any water to the pan in which the duck is roasted. THE COOKING OF THE BRITISH ISLES

Trifle: Use a glass serving bowl 8 to 9 inch­ es across and 3 inches deep.

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r:%enu Juggestions from Jeven Guisines The menus on these pages are drawn from seven FOODS OF THE WoRLD volumes (U.S.A., China, Latin America, Germany, British Isles, Spain and Portugal, and Japan) and Supplement Number One. Many readers have asked for suggested ways of combining dishes from different cui­ sines, and you will find examples in the first group below. They can help you find good com­ binations of your own. The later groups comprise meals that are mainly German, Latin American, Spanish and Portuguese, and Chinese. The menus are arranged in order of increased servings. For more menus, see page 200 of The Cooking of China and page 198 of The Cooking o.fjppan.

To serve 4 to 6

General

CRABMEAT IN VINEGAR SAUCE

To serve 3 to 4

Qapan)

RED SNAPPER BAKED WITH POTATOES

CALF'S LIVER WITH APPLES AND ONION RINGS

(Germany)

(Spain

and Portugal) GREEN SALAD

PORTUGUESE FRIED POTATOES

(Spain and

LEMON-ORANGE ICE

(U.S.A.)

Portugal) HAZELNUT CREAM PUDDING

(Germany)

To serve 4 to 6 DEEP-FRIED PHOENIX-TAILED SHRIMP

(China)

(U.S.A.) FRENCH BREAD (Supplement No. 1) CAESAR SALAD

To serve 4 BROILED SQUAB WITH LEMON-SOY BUTTER

FRUIT AND CHEESE

(U.S.A.) SAFFRON RICE

(Spain and Portugal) Qapan) (U.S.A.)

SPINACH WITH TOASTED SESAME SEEDS THREE-LAYER CHOCOLATE CAKE

To serve 4 to 6 (U.S.A.)

BROILED SHAD

BOILED POTATOES SOY-AND-SESAME SEED DRESSING WITH STRING

To serve 4 DEVILED KIDNEYS

BEANS

(British Isles)

PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH FRIED TOMATOES

Qapan)

SUMMER PUDDING

(British Isles)

(U.S.A.) WATERCRESS AND WATER CHESTNUT SALAD

To serve 6 CLEAR CLAM SOUP WITH MUSHROOMS

(China) FARINA LAYER CAKE

Qapan)

CROWN ROAST OF LAMB WITH PEAS AND NEW

(Germany)

POTATOES

(U.S.A.)

RASPBERRY SHERBET

To serve 4 CHICKEN STEAMED IN FRUIT JUICES

(Latin

ALMOND CRESCENT COOKIES

(Germany)

America) BOILED RICE

(Supplement No. 1)

STIR-FRIED STRING BEANS AND WATER CHESTNUTS

(China)

DEEP-DISH PEACH PIE WITH CREAM-CHEESE CRUST

(U.S.A.)

To serve 4 (China) COLD PICKLED CHICKEN (Latin America) GREEN BEAN SALAD (Germany) STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE (U.S.A.) VELVET CORN SOUP

To serve 6 JELLIED FISH

(China)

(British Isles) (U.S.A.) COLD ORANGE SOUFFLE (U.S.A.)

LANCASHIRE HOTPOT SPINACH SALAD

To serve 6 to 8 GUACAMOLE (Latin America) CHILI CON CARNE (U.S.A.) ENDIVE SALAD FROZEN CRANBERRY MOUSSE

(U.S.A.)

19

To serve 6 to 8

MUSHROOMS WITH TOMATOES AND BACON

(British Isles) HOT MUSTARD PICKLE (British Isles)

GREEN SALAD

TOMATO AND WATERCRESS SALAD

APPLE AND RUM CUSTARD CAKE

VEAL AND HAM PIE

PEKING DUST

(Germany) (Germany)

(China)

Latin American

To serve 8 to 10 CLAMS OR OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH LEMON WEDGES

To serve 4 BRAISED DUCK WITH CORIANDER RICE

STUFFED AND ROLLED FLANK STEAK, WITH ARGENTINE SPICE PARSLEY SAUCE

(Latin

America)

(Latin

America) BROILED TOMATOES SPRINKLED WITH BREADCRUMBS

(Latin

CARAMEL-FILLED COCONUT COOKIES

BAKED POTATOES BLACK FOREST CHERRY CAKE

(Germany)

America) SLICED FRESH PINEAPPLE

German

To serve 4 (British Isles)

To serve 4

POTTED SHRIMP

ENDIVE BAKED WITH HAM AND CHEESE

PORK IN ORANGE AND LEMON SAUCE WITH

(Germany)

SWEET POTATOES

WHITE BREAD WITH CARAWAY SEEDS

(Germany)

(Latin America)

GREEN SALAD CARAMELIZED MILK PUDDING

(Latin America)

SLICED TOMATOES STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING

(Germany)

To serve 4 CRAB PUDDING

To serve 4

FRENCH BREAD

BEEF SHORT RIBS IN LEMON-AND-CAPER SAUCE

GREEN SALAD

(Germany)

(Latin America) (Supplement No. 1)

SLICED PINEAPPLE, PAPAYA AND/OR

MANGOES

(Germany) GREEN BEAN SALAD (Germany) BROWN BUTTER COOKIES (Germany)

To serve 6

BLUEBERRIES OR RASPBERRIES

PORK AND VEAL STEW WITH GREEN TOMATOES

To serve 6

STEAMED RICE

TINY DUMPLINGS

WITH LIME WEDGES

(Latin America) (Supplement No. 1)

BRAISED RABBIT IN SPICED RED WINE SAUCE

(Germany) FARINA DUMPLINGS

GREEN SALAD WITH AVOCADO SLICES PUMPKIN PUDDING

(Latin America)

(Germany) To serve 6

GREEN BEANS LEMON-CREAM DESSERT

(Germany)

FRIED TORTILLAS WITH BEANS AND PIGS' FEET

(Latin America) To serve 6 to 8

(Germany) (Germany)

HAM BRAISED IN BURGUNDY POTATO DUMPLINGS

(Latin America) (Latin America)

CACTUS LEAF SALAD HONEYED SQUASH

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

To serve 6

ALMOND LAYER CAKE OR STEAMED CHOCOLATE

FRIED SAUSAGE-FILLED TORTILLAS WITH RED

PUDDING

(Germany)

(Latin America) (Latin America) TORTILLAS (Latin America) GUACAMOLE ON LETTUCE (Latin America) PINEAPPLE CUSTARD (Latin America) CHILI SAUCE

REFRIED BEANS

To serve 6 to 8 VEAL ROAST STUFFED WITH KIDNEY

(Germany)

20

To serve 6 AVOCADO CREAM SOUP

(Latin America)

To serve 4*

FISH AND SHRIMP IN GINGER-FLAVORED PEANUT SAUCE

CUCUMBER SALAD

(Latin America)

RICE AND COCONUT MILK PUDDING

Chinese

(Latin

America

BEANS

BAKED CHAYOTE S QUASH

(Latin America)

(China)

BRAISED SPARERIBS WITH FERMENTED BLACK

(China)

LOBSTER CANTONESE

(China)

STIR-FRIED STRING BEANS AND WATER CHESTNUTS

Spanish and Portuguese

(China)

To serve 2 to 4

To serve 4 to 5*

PEAS WITH EGGS, SAUSAGES AND CORIANDER

WINTER MELON SOUP

(Spain and Portugal) PORTUGUESE CORNBREAD

(China) (China)

SHRIMP EGG FOO YUNG

(Spain and

WATERCRESS AND WATER CHESTNUT SALAD

Portugal)

(China)

MIXED GREEN SALAD

(Spain and Portugal)

FRESH FRUIT AND CHEESE

EIGHT-PIECES CHICKEN

(China)

STIR-FRIED BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH VEGETABLES

(China) To serve 4 "QUARTER-HOUR" CLAM, SHRIMP, HAM AND

To serve 4 to 5*

(Spain and Portugal) PORTUGUESE STEAK (Spain and Portugal) PORTUGUESE FRIED POTATOES (Spain and Portugal) MIXED GREEN SALAD (Spain and Portugal) MOCHA LAYER CAKE WITH RUM (Spain and Portugal)

(China) (China) JELLIED FISH (China) LION'S HEAD (China)

To serve 4 to 6

BRAISED CHINESE MUSHROOMS STUFFED WITH

RICE SOUP

VELVET CORN SOUP FRIED S QUABS

STIR-FRIED SNOW PEAS WITH CHINESE MUSHROOMS AND BAMBOO SHOOTS

(China)

To serve 6 to 8* SALT COD WITH POTATOES, ONIONS AND BLACK OLIVES

(Spain and Portugal)

PORK AND WATER CHESTNUTS SHARK'S FIN SOUP

GREEN SALAD

(China)

(China)

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH FRESH BEAN

"BACON FROM HEAVEN" ALMOND CAKE

(Spain

and Portugal)

SPROUTS

(China)

(China) (China) FRESH ASPARAGUS SALAD (China)

ROAST PORK STRIPS

BRAISED STAR ANISE BEEF

To serve 6 (Spain and Portugal) FRENCH BREAD (Supplement No. 1)

PAELLA

STIR-FRIED CRABMEAT WITH BEAN CURD WATERMELON SHELLS FILLED WITH FRUIT

(China) (China)

GREEN SALAD SLICED ORANGES SPRINKLED WITH BRANDY

To serve 6 to 8* EGG ROLLS WITH SHRIMP AND PORK

AND CINNAMON-SUGAR

(China)

STEAMED SEA BASS WITH FERMENTED BLACK BEANS

To serve 6 to 8 SPICY GARLIC SOUP

(Spain and Portugal)

ROLLED LEG OF LAMB ROASTED WITH MINT

(Spain and Portugal) GREEN BEANS IN TOMATO SAUCE

(Spain and

Portugal)

(China) (China) FRESH LOTUS ROOT SALAD (China) HAM AND EGG FRIED RICE (China) CREAMED CHINESE CABBAGE

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH FRESH MUSHROOMS

Portugal) ORANGE CARAMEL CUSTARD

(China)

RED-COOKED PORK SHOULDER

(Spain and

(China) EIGHT-TREASURE RICE PUDDING

(China)

* Serve tea and boiled rice with all Chinese meals.

Jources for :Foods and Utensils

The stores listed on these pages are grouped by state and also by cui­ sine: Latin American, Spanish and Portuguese; Chinese; and Japanese. These are primarily food markets, but many of them also carry uten­ sils. All are firms that will accept mail orders.

INDIANA El-Nopal Food Market 810 E. North St. Indianapolis, 46202

Latin American, Spanish and Portuguese

IOWA Nelson's Meat Market 3201 First Ave. S.E. Cedar Rapids, 53402

OHIO Spanish & American Food Market

Swiss Colony

7001 Wade Park Ave. Cleveland, 44103

ARIZONA Sunland Food Market 1002 E. Buckeye Rd. Phoenix, 85034

Miavana Grocery 4007 N. Broadway Chicago, 60613

Lindale Plaza Cedar Rapids, 53402

CALIFORNIA Casa Lucas Market 2934 24th St. San Francisco, 94110

LOUISIANA Central Grocery 923 Decatur New Orleans, 70116

Del Rey Spanish Foods Central Market, Stall A-7 317 S. Broadway Los Angeles, 90013

Progress Grocery 915 Decatur New Orleans, 70116

FLORIDA Epicure Markets 1656 Alton Rd. Miami Beach, 33139 The Delicatessen, Burdine's Dadeland Shopping Center Miami, 33156

ILLINOIS Casa Cardenas 326 S. Halsted Chicago, 60608 La Casa Del Pueblo 1810 S. Blue Island Chicago, 60608

22

MASSACHUSETIS Cardullo's Gourmet Shop . 6 Brattle St. Cambridge, 02138 MICHIGAN Continental Gourmet Shop 210 S. Woodward Birmingham, 48010 La Paloma 2620 Bagley Detroit, 48216

MISSOURI Heidi's Around the World Food Shop 1149 S. Brentwood Blvd. St. Louis, 63117 NEW YORK Casa Moneo Spanish Imports 210 W. 14th St. New York, 10011

PENNSYLVANIA Baldinger's Perry Hwy., R.D. 1 Zelienople, 15237 TENNESSEE Morris Zager 230 Fourth Ave. N. Nashville, 37219 TEXAS Antone's Import Company P.O. Box 3352 Houston, 77001 JimJamail and Sons 3114Kirby Dr. Houston, 77006

WASHINGTON, D.C. Kitchen Bazaar 4455 Connecticut Ave. N.W., 20008 La Sevillana

MINNESOTA La Casa Coronado 23 N. Sixth St. Minneapolis, 55403

2469 18th St. N.W., 20009 Pena's Spanish Store 1636 17th St. N.W., 20009

Chinese ARIZONA Tang's Imports 4821 N. 20th St. Phoenix, 85016 LOUISIANA Chinese American Company 719 Royal St. New Orleans, 70116 MICHIGAN Wah Lee Company 3409 Cass Detroit, 48201 TENNESSEE Morris Zager 230 Fourth Ave. N. Nashville, 37219

920 S. Mateo St. Los Angeles, California 90021 704 " A" St. National City, California 92050 1515 N. "C" St. Sacramento, California 95814 20021/z White St. Houston, Texas 77007 1850 W. 43rd St. Chicago, Illinois 60609 11-31 31st Ave. Long Island City, New York 11106

4455 Connecticut Ave. N.W., 20028 (utensils only) For additional listings, see page 199 of The Cooking of China.

japanese ManyJapanese markets also car­ ry Chinese foods. If you have difficulty getting items by mail from sources listed below, the Japan Food Corporation, a large importing firm, may be able to suggest stores in your area that carryJapanese foods and utensils but do not handle mail orders. For such information, write the Japan Food Corporation office nearest you: 900 Marin St. San Francisco, California 94119

FLORIDA Tropi Pak Food Products 3664 N.W. 48th St. Miami, 33142

GEORGIA Jo Ann's Market 3838 Cusseta Rd. Columbus, 31903 ILLINOIS Diamond Trading Company 1108 N. Clark St. Chicago, 60610

9179 Red Branch Rd. Columbia, Maryland 21043

Franklin Food Store 1309 E. 53rd St. Chicago, 60615

ALABAMA Toni's Oriental Grocery R.R. #2, Box 259 Daleville, 36322

S & I Grocery 1058 W. Argyle St. Chicago, 60640

WASHINGTON, D.C. Kitchen Bazaar

Pacific Mercantile Company 1946 Larimer St. Denver, 80202

CALIFORNIA Enbun Company 248 E. First St. Los Angeles, 90012 Ida Company 339 E. First St. Los Angeles, 90012 Modern Food Market 140 S. San Pedro St. Los Angeles, 90012

Star Market 3349 N. Clark St. Chicago, 60657

KANSAS Imported Foods 1038 McCormick Wichita, 67213 Jade East Store 1030 Grant Ave. Junction City, 66441

Rafu Bussan Company 344 E. First St. Los Angeles, 90012

LOUISIANA Oriental Trading Company 2636 Edenborn Ave. Metairie, 70002

COLORADO Granada Fish 1919 Lawrence Denver, 80202

MASSACHUSETTS Yoshinoya 36 Prospect St. Cambridge, 02139

23

MICHIGAN Kado's Oriental Imports 251 Merrill Birmingham, 48011 MINNESOTA International House 712 Washington Ave. S.E. Minneapolis, 55414 MISSOURI Aloha Enterprises 1741 Swope Pkwy. Kansas City, 64110

Japan Mart, Inc. 239 W. 105th St. New York, 10025

Soy Bean Products Katagiri Company 224 E. 59th St. New York, 10022 Nippon Do 82-69 Parsons Blvd. Jamaica, 11432

Maruyama's 100 N. 18th St. St. Louis, 63103

NEBRASKA Oriental Trading Company 1115 Farnam St. Omaha, 68102

1302 Amsterdam Ave.

Tanaka & Company 326 Amsterdam Ave. New York, 10023

NEWJERSEY Haruko's Oriental Bazaar Rt. #3, Box 3143 Browns Mills, 08015 NEW YORK Japanese Foodland 2620 Broadway New York, 10023

(336 S.W. Fifth St.) Ontario, 97914

UTAH Sage Farm Market 52 W. First St. S. Salt Lake City, 84101 Yamaguchi & Company 260 25th St. Ogden, 84401

NORTH CAROLINA

WASHINGTON North Coast Supply West 27 Main St. Spokane, 99201

Oriental Food Shop P.O. Box 202 (N. Main St.) Spring Lake, 28390

504 12th Ave. S. Seattle, 98144

OHIO Dayton Oriental Food

NEVADA Terry's Oriental Gift Shop and Imports 120 W. Second St. Reno, 89501

P.O. Box 568

Oriental Food Shop New York, 10027

The Country Store 421 Nichols Rd. Kansas City, 64112

736 N.E. Union Ave. Portland, 97232

812 Xenia Ave. Dayton, 45410 Omura Japanese Food and Gift Shop 3811 Payne Ave. Cleveland, 44114

OKLAHOMA Takara Oriental Foods 2012 Cache Rd. Lawton, 73501 OREGON Anzen Importers

From time to time we expect to offer Foo os OF THE WORLD subscribers cooking equipment that may be ordered direct from T IME -LI FE BooKS.

Photograph on page 3 by Anthony Donna.

Tobo Company

Uwajimaya, Inc. 422 S. Main St. Seattle, 98104

WASHINGTON, D.C. House of Hanna 1468 "T" St. N.W., 20009 Mikado 4709 Wisconsin

Ave.

N.W.,

20016

WISCONSIN International House of Foods Madison Division 440 W. Gorham St. Madison, 53703