Finn the Human

Finn the Human Amigurumi Pattern

With this pattern you can make yourself an adventurous little Finn, with a removable backpack that you can fill with useful items. You can also get a pattern to make his best friend, Jake. 1

Materials: Approx 20g white yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 20g light skin-coloured yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 20g light blue yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 15g mid blue yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 10g light green yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 10g mid green yarn, double knitting weight. Approx 10g black yarn, double knitting weight. Stuffing. 1 pair of 7.5mm black safety eyes. Small black button (approx 1cm/0.5" in diameter) and thread to sew it on with. Tapestry needle. 3.5mm hook (US E hook) - use for most of the pattern. 4mm hook (US F hook) - use for backpack straps. Finished size: approximately 11.5” tall Note on yarn: Double knitting (DK) yarn is standard in the UK, but in other parts of the world, such as the US, worsted weight is more commonly used. Worsted weight is a little thicker than DK but can easily be substituted and the pattern will still be in proportion. Use the same weight of yarn throughout, and because of variations between different brands, you may find it best to stick to the same brand of  yarn. Abbreviations: ch = chain st = stitch or stitches ss = slip stitch sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK) dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK) pop = popcorn stitch (see special stitch instructions) tog = together sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together FO = fasten off  YOH = Yarn over hook FLO = front loop only BLO = back loop only Special stitch instructions for fingers: 3 dc pop: popcorn stitch. Work 3 dc into one st, remove hook from working loop, push through both loops of first dc and pull working loop through.

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4 dc pop: popcorn stitch. Work 4 dc into one st, remove hook from working loop, push through both loops of first dc and pull working loop through. Other instructions: Finn is made in rounds. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of  different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight. Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated. When working sc2tog you may wish to use the invisible decrease method. This is a bit more fiddly than the normal way of working two sc together, but it does give a very neat finish. To do the invisible decrease push the hook through the front loop of the first stitch, then through the front loop of the second stitch. YOH and pull through the two front loops. YOH and pull through the two loops on the hook. This pattern has been designed to be made by crocheting with the right side out. While there's nothing bad about crocheting wrong side out, some elements of the pattern may not work, or look strange (such as the fingers). If you use the invisible decrease, this will not work with the wrong side out. The following photos show what working in the round looks like:

Right side out

Wrong side out 

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Face (make this first): Start using light skin-coloured yarn. Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st. Round 4: Sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 3 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times – 24 st. Round 5: Sc in next 4 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 2 st 30 st. Round 6: Sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 9 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 3 st 36 st. Round 7: Sc in each st around - 36 st. Change to white yarn. Round 8: Sc in each st around - 36 st. Ss into next st and FO. Leave a length of yarn to sew the face to the head. Head and Body: Start using white yarn: Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: 2 sc in each st around - 24 st. Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 6 times Round 8 - 22: (15 rounds) Sc in each st around Round 23a: FLO Ss in each st around - 48 st. Ss into next st and FO.

- 30 st. - 36 st. - 42 st. - 48 st. 48 st.

Put the start of the current round at the back. Then fit the face to the head by pushing the safety eyes through both the face and the head then fitting the washers on the inside. (The eyes should go between rounds 4 and 5 of the face, very slightly above the horizontal mid-line, then between rounds 12 and 13 of the head). Continue with the body using light blue yarn. Join the light blue yarn into the back loops that remain from round 22. (To join in yarn: put your hook through the back loop of the stitch and pull the new yarn through. YOH and pull through loop on hook. Tighten. Work the first sc of round 23b into the same stitch). Round 23b: BLO Sc in each st around - 48 st. Round 24 - 42: (19 rounds) Sc in each st around - 48 st. Round 43a: FLO Ss in each st around - 48 st. Ss into next st and FO.

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Stuff head and body firmly, as far as you can. Continue to stuff  gradually as you go along. Continue with the body using mid blue yarn. Join the mid blue yarn into the back loops that remain from round 42. Round 43b: BLO Sc in each st around - 48 st. Round 44 - 47: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around - 48 st. Round 48: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 6 times - 42 st. Round 49: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 36 st. Round 50: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 6 times – 30 st. Round 51: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 6 times – 24 st. Round 52: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 18 st. Round 53: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st. Round 54: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 st. FO, leaving a length of yarn. Finish stuffing firmly then sew up hole at bottom. Now embroider the mouth onto the face using some black yarn. To do this, sew a line and shape it into a smile. Then go over the line vertically lots of times, going through the yarn of the face just a little each time (a bit like an overcast stitch). Secure the end of the yarn on the back of the face and cut. Sew the edge of the face to the head using the length of white yarn attached to it and weave in all the ends of yarn left from the colour changes. Ears for hat (make 2): Using white yarn. Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3 - 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st. Ss into next st, ch 1, turn. Miss ss, sc in next 5 st, ss, FO, leaving a length of yarn. Stuff and sew to the top of the head with the extra 5 st facing outwards to make sure the ears stick straight upwards. Arms (make 2): Start using light skin-coloured yarn (see visual guide on page 11 for  help with the fingers). Ch 8 (fairly loosely), miss ch next to hook, sc in next ch then work [3dc pop in next ch, sc in next ch] 3 times. Round 1: (Place stitch marker before you do first sc) Sc into the back of each ch (7 st), then sc into the top of each popcorn st and sc (7 st) - 14 st. Round 2: Sc in each st around – 14 st.

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Left arm: Round 3: Sc in next 7 st, 4 dc pop in next st, sc in next 6 st - 14 st. Right arm: Round 3: 4 dc pop in next st, sc in next 13 st - 14 st. Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st. Round 5: Sc in each st around – 12 st. Round 6: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 10 st. Round 7 - 26: (20 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st. Change to light blue yarn. Round 27: Ss in each st around – 10 st. Round 28: BLO Sc in each st around – 10 st. Round 29 - 37: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st. Round 38: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 2 times – 8 st. Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn. Stuff well then flatten and sew the edges of the top of each arm together. Sew to the sides of the body just below the edge of the hat.

Jake's arm, showing how working a round of ss then working into the back loops of the ss gives a neat edge to the sleeve.

Legs (make 2): Start with black yarn. Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3 - 9: (7 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st. The next 3 rounds will give a curve to the foot to make the ankle. Work the slip stitches loosely, or you will find it difficult to get your hook into them on the next round. Round Round Round Round

10 - 12: (3 rounds) Ss in next 6 st, sc in next 6 st - 12 st. 13: Sc in each st around – 12 st. 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 10 st. 15 - 18: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.

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Change to white yarn (when you cut the black yarn, leave a length of it to sew the ankle neatly). Round 19 - 21: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st. Round 22a: FLO 2 sc in each st around - 20 st. Sock round 1 - 2: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 20 st. Sock round 3: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 10 st. Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn. Curl down to make sock (with the wrong side facing outwards) and sew sock round 3 to round 19. Stuff the foot and use the length of black yarn to sew the inside of  the curve and make the ankle more defined (see page 13 for more details and photos on how to do this). Continue with the legs using light skin-coloured yarn. Join the skin-coloured yarn into the back loops that remain from round 21. Round 22b: BLO Sc in each st around - 10 st. Round 23 - 46: (24 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st. Change to mid-blue yarn Round 47: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st. Ch 1, turn, and now to start the shorts work into the front loops of  round 47 (back loops as you're looking at them now you've turned your work). The shorts fold down over the top of the legs. Shorts round 1: BLO Sc in each st around - 12 st. Shorts round 2 - 10: (9 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st. Ss in next st and FO leaving length of yarn. Neaten the edge of the shorts then take yarn through to top of leg. Stuff the legs, then flatten and sew the edges of the top of each leg together along the loops left from round 47. Sew to body as shown.

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Backpack Bottom half - using mid green yarn. Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st. Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st. Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st. Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st. Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 42 st. Round 8 – 21: (14 rounds) Sc in each st around – 42 st. Ss into next st and FO. Weave in end of yarn. Top half - using light green yarn. Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st. Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st. Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st. Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st. Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 42 st. Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 st] 3 times - 45 st. Round 9 – 11: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 45 st. Round 12: Sc in next 22 st, ch 2, miss next 2 st, sc in next 21 st 45 st. Round 13: Sc in next 22 st, 2 sc around ch 2, sc in next 21 st - 45 st. Round 14: Sc in each st around – 45 st. Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn. Sew the back of the top onto the bottom half, overlapping by 5 rounds, so that it will open easily (sew across about 7 stitches at the back). Sew the button in place on the bottom half to fit the button hole on the top half. (If you do not want a working backpack you can stuff it and sew the two halves together completely). Straps: Using a 4mm hook, make four of the following cords, two in light  green and two in mid green yarn (see below for a visual guide to the method used). Ch 11, miss ch next to hook and ss in next 10 ch. Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 10 st, ch 1, turn. Ss between back loop of each sc and the loops formed along the bottom to join edges together. FO. Sew each light green cord to a mid green cord to make a single strap, then sew the straps to the back pack as shown. Weave in any loose ends.

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Method for making the cord for the straps:

A chain is made up of sideways 'v' shapes with a bump underneath each one.

When working into the chain push your hook through so that the bottom part of the 'v' is under the hook, and the top part of the 'v' and the back bump are above the hook.

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One row of ss.

Next row of sc.

Put hook through back loop of sc and the opposite loop that has formed at the bottom (on the left hand side in this picture). Yarn over and pull through the two loops and the loop on the hook, to make a slip stitch. Continue down to join the edges together and make the cord. 10

The cord seen from either side.

Visual guide to making fingers (As you can tell from the colour these are Jake's fingers, but the method is the same). Note: Work into the chain as shown above in the method for making the cord.

Working the second sc into the chain after the first 4 dc pop.

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After working the 3 popcorn stitches and single crochets into the chain.

Working into the back of the chain for the first half of round 1. When you work into the back of the chain you will push the hook through so that the bottom part of the original 'v' shape is above the hook and the popcorn stitches and single crochets you have worked are below the hook.

Halfway through round 1.

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Round 1 completed.

Finn's completed hand showing thumb.

Defining the ankle (These are Jake's feet, but the method is the same, and the yellow is easier to see than black).

The section worked in slip stitch gives the ankle some definition, but not enough and it doesn't look very neat.

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Take the length of yarn through to the bottom right of the slip stitch section (looking at the foot the right way up).

Then sew through the top right and tighten. Continue sewing through the top and bottom to the left side of the slip stitch section.

This will make the foot sit at more of a right-angle to the leg.

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View of the completed foot from the front.

Finn's completed feet with socks, from side and front.

Pattern copyright Lucy Collin 2012. All rights reserved. Do not copy or share this pattern. If you sell products made from this pattern, please credit Lucy Collin/LucyRavenscar as the designer.

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