Fashion Drawing THE EASY WAY
Includes the
Easy Draw Rulers The amazing new and fail safe way to learn fashion drawing The Easy Draw fashion drawing system has been developed to make fashion drawing easy. It is suitable for anyone wanting to learn fashion drawing, from secondary school or tertiary level students to those working in the fashion industry.
Debra Laraman
ISBN 1-877386-47-2 Copyright © 2006 ABA Books Ltd Copyright © 2006 Debra Laraman Published by ABA Books Ltd Text, photographs and illustrations by Debra Laraman Printed in Singapore by Markono Print Media Pte Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electrical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of ABA Books Ltd. Copies of this book are available direct from:
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Fashion Drawing the Easy Way
The Easy Draw proportional ruler system of fashion drawing and the accompanying instructional manual have been developed to allow anyone to produce accurate fashion drawings in a minimum time frame. It is suitable for the beginner or the more experienced illustrator looking for additional tools and methods to improve their drawing skills. The ruler will allow you to produce accurately proportioned fashion figures and working drawings (flats). The ability to accurately reflect your design ideas and produce good quality illustrations is paramount to the fashion Industry. Working drawings are used in the Industry throughout the design and manufacture process. The working drawing is used to communicate ideas from the designer’s first sketches through to the designs to be made by the pattern maker, sample machinist and through each step of the production process. Today, many fashion houses use contractors to manufacture the garments both locally and overseas, therefore the technical working drawing is imperative to ensure the end product matches the original design in style, finishing and proportion. Working drawings are also used as a selling tool and feature in order guides, mail order catalogues, internet sites and by wholesalers selling to the retail markets. The Easy Draw method of fashion drawing is suitable for any student of fashion design at either a secondary or tertiary level. It is a great aid for those working in the industry who want a quick and accurate tool and will expedite the process of drawing by ensuring all garments are accurate and symmetrical. The system is very easy to use and would assist those with little experience or those wishing to build on their drawing skills. The booklet and ruler system is intended to take you step by step through a structured and systematic method of drawing that will allow you to achieve a good result in a minimum of time. It is important to read the section on how to use the rulers (refer to pages 2 and 3) and then follow the Getting Started exercises on pages 4 - 18 to familiarise yourself with the options. Once you have mastered the concept you can extend your skills in the exercises from pages 22 - 56.
Getting Started
i
Author’s note Fashion drawing is an excellent method of developing and realising your design ideas. It allows you to visually play with design lines and features without the need to make costly samples. Good quality technical drawings are imperative for the industry, yet many people struggle with their drawing abilities and often lack confidence in their skills. This system has been developed to allow anyone to overcome the difficulties that they may have encountered with freehand drawing, by following a systematic approach and the use of the ruler system. In producing this system I have had the opportunity to draw on my background in the fashion industry and my experience of teaching fashion and design in an educational institute. I have had the opportunity to work with students and see the results that they have achieved through the many trials of developing this method. The system was developed using the fashion proportions based on the 8½ head canon as the ideal proportions of the fashion figure. The average human is between 7½ - 8 heads in height (referred to as the canon). Fashion figures generally have additional length added in the legs to give a more dramatic and stylised look. Once you have mastered the Easy Draw system you should have the confidence to develop your own style further and the rulers will be a valuable aid in your future drawings and illustrations. I wish you success for the future. Debra Laraman Programme Co-ordinator Diploma in Fashion Design Technology Group Leader- Design Programmes Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Tauranga New Zealand
Acknowledgements I would like to thank the following people for their contribution in making this project possible. • Bay of Plenty Polytechnic, Tauranga. • Suze Higgins for graphic design and desktop publishing. • Miranda Wheatley for being the hand model. • Melissa Gibbard for photography. • Dr Brian Coffey - Director, Pacific Coast Applied Research Centre, for his support and encouragement and for proof reading this book.
ii
Getting Started
Index
INTRODUCTION Equipment ..................................................................................................................... 1 Useful Items ................................................................................................................... 1 Optional / Additional Items ......................................................................................... 1 Easy Draw Rulers - Diagram and Explanation of Use ............................................... 2 GETTING STARTED Exercise 1 – Instructions for Proportional Figure Template ..................................... 4 Fashion Figure – Changing the Stance ....................................................................... 8 Exercise 2 – Instructions for Changing the Stance .................................................... 9 Exercise 3 – Instructions for a Straight Skirt.............................................................12 Exercise 4 – Instructions for a Basic Trouser .............................................................14 Exercise 5 – Instructions for a Skirt with Inverted Pleats ........................................16 Exercise 6 – Instructions for a Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar ..............................18 EXTENDING YOUR SKILLS Exercise 7 – Basic Short ...............................................................................................22 Exercise 8 – Jean Short ...............................................................................................23 Exercise 9 – Knee Length Capri Pants .......................................................................25 Exercise 10 – Prairie Skirt............................................................................................26 Exercise 11 – T Shirt.....................................................................................................27 Exercise 12 – Shirt........................................................................................................28 DRESSING THE FASHION FIGURE Exercise 13 to 19 – Dressing the Fashion Figure......................................................30 DRESSING THE FASHION FIGURE Exercise 20 – Basic Figures to Fleshed Out ...............................................................40 Exercise 21 – Basic Figure to Dressed Illustration ....................................................41 Exercise 22 – Basic Figure to Dressed Fashion Illustration......................................42 Exercise 23 – Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration .................................................43 Exercise 24 – Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration .................................................44 Exercise 25 – Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration .................................................45 Exercise 26 – Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration .................................................46 DRAWING A FACE Exercise 27 – Step by Step Instructions for Drawing a Face ...................................47 Exercise 28 – Facial Styles ...........................................................................................50 LIBRARY Working Drawings......................................................................................................51 Changing the Style .....................................................................................................51 Library ..........................................................................................................................52
Index
iii
iv
It is not necessary to have a large art kit but the following items are essential.
Equipment
• Propelling pencil – with either a 0.7mm or 0.5mm lead. • Black ink fine liners /pigment liners Size 0.1mm, 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm. These can also be purchased in a kit with nibs ranging from 0.1mm through to 0.8mm. • Eraser • Bank paper/layout paper is best for your first drawings as it is semitransparent. • Cartridge paper/sketch book A3 size is preferred as it is easy to carry and is suitable for pencil and markers and can be used for finished illustrations.
Useful items Light box – used for tracing over your original drawings to refine and develop the illustrations. These can be bought from good art stores. An A3 size is recommended that is lightweight and portable.
Optional / additional items
You may wish to extend your skills and add colour to your illustrations. While this book is not intended to teach you all about fashion illustration and colouring techniques, it does show some examples of coloured artwork that have been completed in marker pen and/or coloured pencil. Marker pens – Suggested colours – a skin tone, a blonde or brunette colour for the hair, a silver, mid and charcoal grey for adding tone and a mix of your preferred colours for clothing. Coloured pencils – boxed set of 72 colours is the most economical way to purchase. Aquarelle pencils are versatile as they may be used dry or by adding water so a watercolour effect can be achieved.
Introduction
1
Easy Draw Rulers ç Diagram and Explanation of Use Proportional Ruler Waist and hip shaping Used for drawing bodies and garments; i.e. The lower body and garments such as skirts and trousers.
Leg lengths This area is used for garments; the proportions are for lengths of skirts, trousers and shorts.
Body proportions
Sleeve lengths
This area is used to give the proportions of the body. It is used when drawing figures and garments. You will begin your drawings by ruling down this side from the head to the toe positions, to ensure accurate figure and garment proportions. This line will then become the centre front and will be matched up with the dotted line in the centre of the ruler to ensure garments and figures are symmetrical.
This area is always step one in the drawing exercises.
This area is used for drawing the upper body of figures and for upper garments such as jackets, shirts and tops. The proportions are marked for the underarm, sleeve lengths, neck width and shoulder width.
Shoulder shaping area Includes neck and shoulder widths used for figures and garments.
2
Easy Draw Fashion Rulers
Easy Draw Rulers ç Diagram and Explanation of Use Curve Ruler The curve ruler is mainly used to give the correct shaping to garments. It also has the template for the head shaping when you are drawing figures.
Waist shaping Waist bands and any curve lines such as darts, hems and arm/shoulder shaping.
Hip shaping Used for side body and darts, pockets shaping and necklines.
Necklines Necklines Necklines and curve lines.
Princess line Head shaping Used in conjunction with the proportional ruler to give the correct shape and size to the head.
Dart shaping, side body shaping, lapels, collars and style lines.
Back neck shaping Hemlines
For collars and jackets.
Curves, darts, yokes and waistbands.
Easy Draw Fashion Rulers
3
E X E R C I SE
1
Instructions for Proportional Figure Template step one • Position the ruler with the waist line facing the top of your page. • Draw down the right side of the ruler from the ‘head’ position to the ‘toe’ position. Mark and name each of the points (e.g. neck, waist, bust, hip, knee, ankle and toe). NOTE: This line will become the centre front line of your drawing.
step two • Turn the ruler around and place the neck shaping area of the ruler at the chin position. • Draw across the ruler from the shoulder point, across the neck shaping, to the other shoulder point. NOTE: Ensure the centre front is aligned correctly. To align the ruler correctly, place the dotted line in the centre of the ruler directly on top of the centre front line on your page, this will ensure your drawing is symmetrical.
step three • Position the ruler with the waistline area of the ruler at the waist position on your page. • Draw across the waistline and down both sides of the ruler to the ankle position. NOTE: Remember to always match the centre front line!
4
Getting Started
EXERCISE
1
step four • At the ankle position, measure out 1cm from the centre front line for both sides (this is the inside leg position). • Match the crotch position on your ruler with the crotch position on the centre front line and rule down to the ankle position for both sides. This is the inside leg.
step five • Turn the ruler around so that the neck shaping area faces the top of the page. Match the shoulder point on the ruler with the shoulder position on your page and rule down from this position to the waistline (this is the side body). • Mark the underarm position. • Complete this process for both sides.
step six • At the hip position, measure out 3.5cm from the centre front line for both sides (this is the inside wrist position).
Getting Started
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E X E R C I SE
1
step seven • Position the ruler so that the underarm position and the wrist position are matched correctly and rule in the inside arm. • Complete for both sides.
step eight • Match the shoulder point on the ruler with the shoulder point on your drawing and rule in the outside arm to the wrist position, ensuring the wrist width is approx 1cm wide. • Complete for both sides.
step nine • Using the curve ruler, draw in the head.
6
Getting Started
EXERCISE
1
step ten • Add hands and feet using the simple shapes as shown. This completes the robotic figure which you can use to develop more figure drawings or it can be used as it is to complete accurate working drawings (Flats).
step eleven
Flesh out the figure (croquis) The completed figure looks unrealistic and needs to be re-defined. Place a clean sheet of paper over the robotic figure and redraw by adding shape to the limbs. This stance can easily be changed and the following exercises show you step by step how to change the stance. NOTE : You will notice centre front has been indicated by a dotted line. This is useful when dressing the croquis with your designs.
Getting Started
7
Fashion Figure – Changing the Stance As a fashion designer you will need to be able to show garment designs on a body in a variety of stances and portraying different moods. To make your basic fashion template come alive you will need to understand the way the body moves according to the balance of weight, e.g. which leg is taking the weight.
Exercise Looking at yourself in front of a full length mirror (or ask a friend to pose for you), place your weight on your right leg. You will notice that this forces your hip upwards and your shoulders will automatically adjust in the opposing way. Imagine a vertical line dropping down from the centre of your collarbone to the floor. The ankle of the leg taking the weight will be closest to this vertical line and the bulk of the body will also be on this side of the line.
Rule to Remember Identify the leg that is taking the weight. The hip above this leg will be tilted upwards and higher than the other hip. The body will counter balance this by dropping the shoulder on the weight bearing side and raising the shoulder on the side not taking the weight (low hip side). The arrow lines identify the hip and shoulder positions. If you drop a vertical line down from the centre of the collarbone you will notice the leg taking the weight will be the closest to this position. The majority of the body will also be on this side of the vertical line.
Activity Attach a piece of string to a small weight and drop this down from the centre of your collarbone – note your hips, shoulder and leg positions.
8
Changing the Stance
EXERCISE
2
Instructions for Changing the Stance step one • Draw along the right side of the ruler from the head to the toe position, marking in all position points (e.g. head, neck waist, hip, etc). NOTE: Refer to the finished figure stance. You will notice the right leg is taking the weight, therefore this hip will be tilted upwards and the right shoulder will be tilted downwards to counterbalance the body. It is always important to identify which leg is taking the weight before attempting any drawings, as this will ensure your figure looks realistic.
step two
Draw shoulders • Turn the ruler around so the neck shaping area is facing the top of your page. • Position the ruler at the chin position ensuring the shoulder is tilted down on the left side of the ruler. • Draw across the ruler from one shoulder point to the other.
step three
Draw hip position • Position the waistline position of the ruler at the waist position of your drawing. • Tilt the ruler slightly upwards on the left side. • Draw around the ruler from the hip position, across the waistline and down the other side to the hip position.
Changing the Stance
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E X E R C I SE
2
step four
Draw side body • Rotate the ruler and place the shoulder point of the ruler at the shoulder point on your drawing and rule down to join the waistline, marking in the underarm position. • Complete for both sides.
step five
Draw in outer arm • Match shoulder points. Position the ruler on the required angle for the arm then rule down to the elbow position. • Pivot the ruler at the elbow to obtain the desired angle and rule down to the wrist position.
step six
Draw inside arm • Match the underarm position on the ruler with the underarm position on your drawing. Draw along the ruler following the same angle as the outside of the arm. • Complete the other arm using the same method.
10
Changing the Stance
EXERCISE
2
step seven
Draw inside leg • Match the crotch position on the ruler with the crotch position on your drawing (slightly to the left of centre front). • Draw along the ruler from the crotch to the knee position, ensuring the angle of the leg is correctly positioned. • Pivot the ruler from the knee position and draw from the knee to the ankle, adjusting the position of the leg to the desired angle.
step eight • Complete the outside of both legs. Match the hip position on the ruler and follow the angles already drawn in for the inside leg.
step nine • Add an oval for the head using the curved ruler, draw in half the head and then flip the ruler and draw the other side.
step ten • Complete the illustration by adding simple hand and foot shapes. • Refine the drawing by adding shape to the limbs and torso. • Complete in black 0.3mm pen and erase all pencil lines.
Changing the Stance
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E X E R C I SE
3
Instructions for a Straight Skirt Working Drawings The ability to produce correctly proportioned and accurately detailed working drawings is imperative to a fashion designer or pattern maker. An understanding of figure proportions will enable you to accurately represent your garments as you have visualised them. In the fashion industry, working drawings are used to communicate ideas. They are used by the designer from the initial design stages through to specification sheets for pattern drafting, construction and through the entire production process. The working drawing must include all details such as stitching, fastenings, hems, buttons, trims, etc. It is shown as though the garment was lying flat on a table. It is a clear and accurate drawing which is correct in proportion and conveys the information required to construct the garment. Front, back and side views are required. The following exercises give you step by step instructions for completing a variety of basic working drawings and familiarise you with how to use the rulers.
step one
Draw the proportions and the centre front line • Position the proportional ruler with the waistline position facing the top of the page. • Draw down the right hand side of the ruler from the waist position to the ankle position (this is the centre front line).
step two
Draw side seams • Position the ruler at the waistline position and align the centre front position. • Draw across the waistline to the hip position on both sides. • Continue down the side of the skirt to the desired skirt length.
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Straight Skirt
EXERCISE
3
step three
Draw hemline • Use the curve ruler and draw in the hemline. This will ensure you have a very slight curve along the hemline.
step four
Draw the waistband • Use the hemline area of the curve tool to draw the waistline. • Add darts. Tip: The hip curve area of the proportional ruler can be used for the darts to ensure both sides are the same.
step five
Draw hemline • Reinstate using a black pen and erase all pencil lines.
Straight Skirt
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E X E R C I SE
4
Instructions for a Basic Trouser
step one • Place the ruler with the waistline facing the top of the page. • Rule along the right side of the ruler from the waist position to the toe, marking in hip, knee and ankle positions. This will be the centre front line of your garment. • Position the ruler with the waistline in the correct position and align the centre front of the ruler (dotted line) with the centre front line on your page.
step two • Draw across the waistline and down to the ankle position for both sides.
step three
Draw inside and outside legs • Position the ruler with the area marked crotch on the centre front line at the crotch position. • Pivot the ruler slightly out from centre front at the ankle position (approximately 3mm). • Draw along the ruler to the desired leg length (this is the inside leg seam). Complete for both legs.
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Basic Trouser
EXERCISE
4
step four
Draw waistband • Position the ruler with the waistline area slightly above the waistline on the drawing and rule across the waistline of your ruler (this will give the correct curve to the waistband).
step five • Complete the sides of the waistband. • Draw the pockets on the desired angle. Tip: The hip shaping area on your ruler will give a correct shape to the pockets.
step six
Complete the illustration • Draw the hem on the trouser legs. This can be done by using the ruler at the waistline area. • Complete the fly opening at the centre front (a broken dotted line will indicate the stitching line), add belt loops and the front waist opening with a button. • Reinstate in black 0.3mm pen and erase all pencil lines. • Add the top stitching. Well done. Practise several designs to build your ability to produce quick illustrations and increase your design ideas. Basic Trouser
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E X E R C I SE
5
Instructions for a Skirt with Inverted Pleats step one • Position the proportional ruler with the waistline facing the top of the page. • Draw along the right hand side of the ruler, from the waist position to the ankle. • Mark in the hip and knee positions. • At the knee position measure out 3.5cm from the centre front and place a mark at this point on both sides. (This will indicate the width of flare on the skirt.)
step two • Position the ruler with the waistline position correctly matched at the centre front. • Draw across the waistline. • Pivot the ruler and match the flare position as previously marked. • Draw from the edge of the waistline down to the knee/flare position. • Complete for both sides.
step three • Position the curve ruler and using the hemline area draw the hemline from one side to centre front. Then flip the ruler and complete the other side.
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Skirt with Inverted Pleats
EXERCISE
5
step four • Use the hip curve area on the proportional ruler and draw down to almost hip line. This indicates the seam line.
step five • Position the ruler at the seam line and rule down to the hemline. • Slightly pivot the ruler, opening the pleat at the hemline and rule down to meet the hem. • Complete both sides.
step six • Add the waist band. • Erase the centre front line and reinstate in black pen 0.3mm. Erase all pencil lines.
Skirt with Inverted Pleats
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E X E R C I SE
6
Instructions for a Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar step one • Position the ruler with the waistline facing towards the top of the page. • Draw along the right side of the ruler from the chin position to the hip position.
step two • Rotate the ruler so the shoulder line is facing the top of the page. Place the ruler at the chin position on the page and with the centre front correctly aligned (dotted line on the ruler is placed on top of the centre front line on your drawing). • Draw across the ruler for the shoulders and neck. • Rotate the ruler and place the waistline area of the ruler on the waistline position of your drawing (matching centre front) and draw down to the hip line (or required length).
step three
Draw in outside sleeve and side body • Position the ruler with the shoulder point matching the shoulder point on the drawing. Pivot the ruler outwards from the centre front line and rule in the outside sleeve to the wrist position. Complete for both sleeves.
18
Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar
EXERCISE
6
step four • Position the ruler at the shoulder point and pivot it to match the waistline position. Rule down to the waist position and place a mark at the underarm position.
step five • Position the ruler with the underarm position matching the guide mark on the drawing and rule down to the wrist position (sleeve width should be approximately 5mm). This is the inside sleeve.
step six • Using the curve ruler, draw the back collar.
Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar
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E X E R C I SE
6
step seven • Using the proportional ruler, draw a straight line from the left side of the neck (known as the ‘breakline’ on a collar) across the centre front line (approximately 3mm past centre front). This is known as the ‘breakpoint’. • Rule down from the breakpoint to the hem length.
step eight • Position the ruler on the right side of the neck at the same angle as the previous breakline but only draw from the neck to the centre front.
step nine • Using the curve ruler, draw in the ‘style line’ of the collar (this is the outer edge of the collar and can be any shape you wish).
20
Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar
EXERCISE
6
step ten • Using the curve ruler, draw the princess seams to waist line.
step eleven • Draw the pockets using the curve ruler.
step twelve • Complete your illustration in 0.3mm black pen. • Add all top stitching. • Erase all pencil lines.
Well done. To ensure you build a good knowledge of jacket designs, practise drawing a variety of styles with various collars and lapels.
Fitted Jacket with Shawl Collar
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E X E R C I SE
7
Basic Short
step one
Rule the centre front seam • Using the proportional ruler, draw from the waist to just below the crotch position. Mark the crotch position.
step two • Place the waistline position of the proportional ruler at the waist position, matching the centre front line and the dotted line on the ruler. • Draw around the ruler from the left side, across the waistline and down the right side.
step three • Rule the inside leg. • Position the ruler at the crotch position. Pivot the ruler out from the centre front and draw the inside leg. • Complete for both sides. • Lower the waistline. • Add darts and complete the hemline. • Reinstate in black 0.5mm pen and erase all pencil lines.
22
Basic Short
EXERCISE
8
Jean Short
step one • Using the proportional ruler, draw from the waist to the knee position. • Position the waistline on the ruler at waist position and rule from the left hip position across the waistline and down to the same position on the right side of the ruler.
step two • Match the crotch position on the ruler with your drawing. Pivot the ruler out slightly from the centre line and draw in the inside leg.
step three • Draw the outside leg to the appropriate length. • Position the waistline area of the ruler on the hemline of the shorts and rule across – note this will give you a slight curve to the hem. • Continue for both legs.
Jean Short
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E X E R C I SE
8
step four
To lower the waistline • Using the curve ruler at the hemline/ curved line position, place it below the original waistline position and re-draw the new lower waistline position.
step five • Add a button to the left of the centre front line. The waistband opening is on the centre front line. • Using the waistline position, rule the pockets. Ensure both sides are symmetrical.
step six • Add a broken line (stitching line) for the fly opening. • Add top stitching. • Reinstate in black 0.5mm pen and erase all pencil lines.
24
Jean Short
EXERCISE
9
Knee Length Capri Pants
step one • Rule down the right side of the ruler from the waist position to the knee. This is the centre front line. Mark in the crotch position. • Place the ruler with centre front of the ruler (dotted line) aligned with the centre front on the drawing. Rule across the waistline down to the knee position for both sides.
Inside Leg
step two • Match the crotch position on the ruler with the crotch position on your drawing. • Rule from the crotch to the knee position ensuring you slightly pivot the ruler out from centre front (this is the inside leg).
step three • Add the side zip as a broken line. • Draw the front darts using the ‘waistline position’ (this will give you the correct curve to the dart). Ensure darts are equal in length and an equal distance from the centre front. • Reinstate in black 0.5mm pen and erase all pencil lines. • Add the hem on both legs using the waistline position of the ruler which will give a slight curve.
Knee Length Capri Pants
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E X E R C I SE
1 0
Prairie Skirt
step one • Using the proportional ruler, draw the centre front line by drawing from the waist to knee position and mark the waist and hip positions. • Rotate the ruler and place the waistline of the ruler at the waist position. Draw across the waistline and down to the hip position. • Measure 3.5cm out from the centre front at the hemline position and mark this place.
step two • Add flare using the proportional ruler by matching the 3.5cm marks on either side of the centre front and rule a line from the hip to this position. • Use the curve ruler ‘Hemline/Curved lines’ to draw the hem. • Add darts. • Using the curve ruler at the hemline position, draw the panel lines across the skirt.
step three • Add gathering. • Adjust side panels. • Reinstate in black 0.5mm pen and erase all pencil lines.
26
Prairie Skirt
EX ERCISE
11
T Shirt
step one Using the proportional ruler, rule the centre front line from the chin to the hip. Rotate the ruler and position the neck shaping area at the chin position. Draw across the neck shaping area and down to the hip position and mark the underarm position. Complete for both sides.
step two
Neck Line • Use the curve ruler ‘Head shaping’ area.
Shoulder Seam • Use the curve ruler ‘Hip shaping / shoulder seams’ for the shoulders.
Armhole Shaping • Use the curve ruler ‘Style line / princess seam / curves’.
Side Body Shaping • Use the curve ruler ‘Style line / princess seam / curves’.
Hems, Body and Sleeves • Use the curve ruler ‘Hem lines / curved lines’.
T Shirt
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E X E R C I SE
1 2
Shirt
step one
Front • Rule from the chin position to the hip position and mark in the neck, bust and waist positions. • Turn the ruler around and position the centre front on your page with the centre front of the ruler – draw in shoulders and neck. • Rule across the shoulder lines and neck shaping. • Draw down the right side of the ruler from shoulder point to the wrist and the left side down to the knee (these positions are equal to the hip position). step two • Position the shoulder points on your drawing and the shoulder point on the ruler together and draw down to the elbow position (this is the outside arm). • Pivot the ruler at the elbow position and draw down to the wrist position. • Complete the other sleeve by matching shoulder points and ruling straight down the ruler to the wrist position. • Match shoulder points and mark the underarm position.
step three • Using the curve ruler, place the waist shaping at the shoulder point and draw in the sleeve seam. This will be larger than the underarm position you have marked in.
28
Shirt
EX ERCISE
12
step four • Rule the inside arms. • Using the curve ruler, place the back collar position on the ruler between the chin and neck position on your drawing and rule across for the back neck.
• Complete Collar
step five • Using the curve ruler, draw the style line of the collar.
step six • Using the curve ruler at the Hem lines / curved lines area, complete the hems. • Add a cuff on the sleeve. • Place buttons on the centre front line. • Using the Style line / princess line area on your curve ruler, slightly shape the side of the body. • Reinstate in black 0.5mm pen, add details such as pockets, darts and top stitching. • Erase all pencil lines.
Shirt
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E X E R C I SE
1 3
Dressing the Fashion Figure
step one 1.
Use the proportional ruler.
2.
Rule a centre line from the head to the toe, marking in each position.
3.
Using the curve ruler, draw the head.
4. Position the ruler with the shoulders tilted on the correct angle. 5.
Position the waistline area on the proportional ruler in the correct position and on the appropriate angle. Draw across the waistline and down to hip position.
6.
Place the proportional ruler so the shoulder points are matched and rule down to waist position (side body).
7.
Pivot the ruler from the shoulder point position to the desired angle and draw in the outside arm to the elbow position.
8.
Pivot at the elbow position and rule down to the wrist. Add the hand.
9.
Locate the crotch position (slightly off from the centre front) and place the crotch position of the ruler at this point. Rule a line from the crotch to the knee position (inside leg).
10. Pivot the ruler and draw from the knee to the ankle position. Complete for both legs. 11. Position the ruler matching the outer hip positions and rule down to the knee following the angles of the inside leg and then down to the ankle. Complete for both legs. 12. Add simple shapes for the feet and hands.
30
Dressing the Fashion Figure
EX ERCISE
13
step two • Flesh out and refine the figure, adding some shaping to the torso and limbs. • Reinstate in black pen 0.3mm and erase all pencil lines. Keep this illustration as a template (croquis) to trace from and add clothes.
step three • Place a clean sheet of paper over your illustration and using the original drawing as a guide, trace over and add clothing as per example. • The example gives an indication of a simple drawing with minimal drape. To ensure clarity of line, it is best to keep your drawings free of unnecessary shading and drape lines.
step four Additional illustrations have been added to show how the basic drawing can be developed to appeal to a particular market. Note how the drawings look quite different when the style has been changed and the proportions have been exaggerated. Practise mastering the basic skills first and then focus on developing your own style. This may be more easily achieved by copying a variety of work in the first instance to become familiar with different styles.
Dressing the Fashion Figure
31 31
E X E R C I SE
1 4
Dressing the Fashion Figure
step one 1.
Use the proportional ruler.
2.
Rule a centre line from the head to the toe, marking in each position.
3.
Using the curve ruler, draw the head.
4. Position the ruler with the shoulders tilted on the correct angle. 5.
Position the waistline area on the proportional ruler in the correct position and on the appropriate angle. Draw across the waistline and down to hip position.
6.
Place the proportional ruler so the shoulder points are matched and rule down to waist position (side body).
7.
Pivot the ruler from the shoulder point position to the desired angle and draw in the outside arm to the elbow position.
8.
Pivot at the elbow position and rule down to the wrist. Add the hand.
9.
Locate the crotch position, rule a line from the crotch to the knee position (inside leg).
10. Pivot the ruler and draw from the knee to the ankle position. Complete for both legs. 11. Position the ruler, matching the outer hip positions and rule down to the knee following the angles of the inside leg and then down to the ankle. Complete for both legs. 12. Add simple shapes for the feet and hands.
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Dressing the Fashion Figure
EX ERCISE
14
step two • Flesh out and refine the figure, adding some shaping to the torso and limbs. • Reinstate in black pen 0.3mm and erase all pencil lines. Keep this illustration as a template (croquis) to trace from and add clothes.
step three • Place a clean sheet of paper over your illustration and using the original drawing as a guide, trace over and add clothing as per example. • The example gives an indication of a simple drawing with minimal drape. To ensure clarity of line, it is best to keep your drawings free of unnecessary shading and drape lines.
step four Additional illustrations have been added to show how the basic drawing can be developed to appeal to a particular market. Note how the drawings look quite different when the style has been changed and the proportions have been exaggerated. Practise mastering the basic skills first and then focus on developing your own style. This may be more easily achieved by copying a variety of work in the first instance to become familiar with different styles.
Dressing the Fashion Figure
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E X E R C I SE
1 5
Dressing the Fashion Figure
step one 1.
Use the proportional ruler.
2.
Rule a centre line from the head to the toe, marking in each position.
3.
Using the curve ruler, draw the head.
4. Position the ruler with the shoulders tilted on the correct angle. 5.
Position the waistline area on the proportional ruler in the correct position and on the appropriate angle. Draw across the waistline and down to hip position.
6.
Place the proportional ruler so the shoulder points are matched and rule down to waist position (side body).
7.
Pivot the ruler from the shoulder point position to the desired angle and draw in the outside arm to the elbow position.
8.
Pivot at the elbow position and rule down to the wrist. Add the hand.
9.
Locate the crotch position, rule a line from the crotch to the knee position (inside leg).
10. Pivot the ruler and draw from the knee to the ankle position. Complete for both legs. 11. Position the ruler, matching the outer hip positions and rule down to the knee following the angles of the inside leg and then down to the ankle. Complete for both legs. 12. Add simple shapes for the feet and hands.
34
Dressing the Fashion Figure
EX ERCISE
15
step two • Flesh out and refine the figure, adding some shaping to the torso and limbs. • Reinstate in black pen 0.3mm and erase all pencil lines. Keep this illustration as a template (croquis) to trace from and add clothes.
step three • Place a clean sheet of paper over your illustration and using the original drawing as a guide, trace over and add clothing as per example. • The example gives an indication of a simple drawing with minimal drape. To ensure clarity of line, it is best to keep your drawings free of unnecessary shading and drape lines.
step four Additional illustrations have been added to show how the basic drawing can be developed to appeal to a particular market. Note how the drawings look quite different when the style has been changed and the proportions have been exaggerated. Practise mastering the basic skills first and then focus on developing your own style. This may be more easily achieved by copying a variety of work in the first instance to become familiar with different styles.
Dressing the Fashion Figure
35
E X E R C I SE
1 6
Dressing the Fashion Figure
36
step one
step two
step three
step four
Dressing the Fashion Figure
EX ERCISE
17
Dressing the Fashion Figure step one
step two
step three
step four
Dressing the Fashion Figure
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E X E R C I SE
1 6
Dressing the Fashion Figure
38
step one
step two
step three
step four
Dressing the Fashion Figure
EX ERCISE
17
Dressing the Fashion Figure step one
step two
step three
step four
Dressing the Fashion Figure
39
E X E R C I SE
2 0
Basic Figures to Fleshed Out These exercises are to help you develop your illustration skills. Remember to always start with the centre line and then mark in the hip tilt and the tilt of the shoulder. The other proportions of the body have been marked to guide you. It may take several attempts to complete a fleshed out version that you are happy with. Keep all your drawings as they can be developed and changed at a later stage by simply changing the angle of an arm or leg.
1
1
40
2
2
Dressing the Fashion Figure
3
3
EX ERCISE
21
Basic Figure to Dressed Illustration These exercises should be attempted once you have the basic idea of how to use the rulers. The instructions do not show every step of the process but the main stages of the drawing are illustrated. This exercise shows the basic figure, how it is fleshed out, through to the dressed version. Do not rush this stage. Take your time and practise often. You will note the drawings remain clean and free of unnecessary lines.
1
2
3 4
Dressing the Fashion Figure
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E X E R C I SE
2 2
These examples show the basic drawing using the ruler and the final dressed version. It may take several attempts to complete a finished drawing but simply use the first basic figure and place a clean sheet of paper over it to enable you to develop the drawing in stages, refining and correcting as you go.
Basic Figure to Dressed Fashion Illustration
Remember, most completed illustrations you see in drawing books are not the artist’s first attempt.
1
1
42
2
2
Dressing the Fashion Figure
3
3
EX ERCISE
Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration
23
The following exercises have been included to guide you through the steps of completing a drawing from the first basic figure using the rulers, to the fleshed out version, the dressed figure and the final colour illustration. These examples show a very simple drawing style that is easy to understand and free from any unnecessary lines. The drape on the garments has been indicated by very few lines and it is important for you to be aware of this when completing your drawings. The coloured versions have been completed using marker pens, which you can buy from any good art store and a white pencil has been used to add highlights. The final illustration has been reinstated in black 0.5mm pen with a slightly thicker outline in 0.8mm pen.
4
1
2
3
Dressing the Fashion Figure
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E X E R C I SE
2 4
Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration
Begin at step one, gradually creating your illustration as you work through the four steps.
1
2
4
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Dressing the Fashion Figure
3
EX ERCISE
25
Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration 1
2
3
4
Dressing the Fashion Figure
45
E X E R C I SE
2 6
Basic Figure to Coloured Illustration 1
2
4
46
Dressing the Fashion Figure
3
EX ERCISE
27
Step by Step Instructions for Drawing a Face When learning to draw a face that is suitable for fashion drawings, a realistic representation is not necessary, however it is important to have an understanding of facial features and proportions. Often a drawing that has a very minimal face or a stylised version will work better than a poorly proportioned and unskilled rendering of a face. Therefore, this is an area that should be practised so you are able to give the indication of facial features so your drawings appear finished. When learning to draw a face it is best to draw a little larger than you may be used to doing and so for this exercise you will not use the head shape on the curve ruler. You will need a mechanical pencil 0.5mm, an eraser and a clean sheet of paper.
step one • Draw an oval that is approximately 6cm wide and 8cm high. • Divide the oval in half vertically. • Divide the oval in half horizontally – this is the eye line.
step two • Divide the eye line into five equal sections. • Draw two almond shapes for the eyes and add the pupils. NOTE: The space between the eyes is equal to the width of an eye and the space at the side of the face is also approximately an eye width.
Drawing a Face
47
E X E R C I SE
2 7
step three • Divide the lower part of the oval in half – this is the bottom of the nose. • Divide the bottom quarter in half – this is the bottom of the mouth.
step four • Drop a line from the inside of the eye to the nose line – this will be the outside edge of the nose. • Drop a line down from the iris of the eye to the mouth line – this will be the maximum width of the mouth. NOTE: An equilateral triangle is formed from the pupils to the tip of the nose.
step five • Draw the nose. • Draw the mouth. Begin with an oval on the mouth line and two small circles above this. • Define the mouth. • Add eyebrows, curving up and around the eyes.
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Drawing a Face
EX ERCISE
27
step six • Slightly narrow the head and add ears between the eye level and the nose level.
step seven • Add hair, eyelashes, etc and erase all pencil guidelines.
Drawing a Face
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E X E R C I SE
2 8
Facial Styles Try to find ways that enable you to capture a representation of a face without spending a great deal of time struggling with the drawing. Some examples have been included here to show you how the same face that was created in the previous exercise can be slightly changed to achieve a different look. When learning to illustrate your designs it is important to show the garments on a body but a poorly illustrated face can detract from the garments and become the focus of the drawing. The face need not be a significant part of the illustration and a face with only a simple mouth shape or a nose can be all that is required. Practise drawing faces by using your curve ruler for the head shape and experiment with different styles of hair and facial features.
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Drawing a Face
LIBRARY
Working Drawings
The following example indicates a variety of styles you may wish to use to further develop your drawing skills. It is important to draw many different garment styles in order to become familiar with the different features, such as where the stitching is placed and various design details, such as zips, collars, fastening, cuffs, etc. When you complete your working drawings you may wish to use the basic body template as a base to draw on top of. The following example shows how to prepare the template and drawing over it, through to the completed drawing. *Remember to make sure your line work is neat and clean and all guidelines are erased.
Changing the Style
In this example you can see the basic garment drawing of a jacket and a basic figure. The middle figure shows the garment drawn directly on the model. The final figure shows the same garment drawn on a figure which has slightly been stylized, the waist has been narrowed and although the proportions are basically the same, very slight modifications can drastically alter the image and highlight certain aspects. You will notice the difference in line. It is more angular with some areas reinstated to add width to the line.
Library
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L I B R A RY
A variety of styles are illustrated to assist you in developing your skills.
Halter neck top
Wrap over top with ¾ sleeves
Library
Fitted blouse with cap sleeve
Single breasted jacket with collar and lapel
Sleeveless blouse with front buttons and princess line seams
Jean style skirt, with front vent and side pockets
Short with side faced pockets
Wrap around trouser
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Library
Trouser with front pleats and shaped waistband
Single breasted long line jacket
LIBRARY
Collar Variations
Wing tip
Cossack
Ascot
Peter Pan
Shawl
One piece collar
Portrait
Funnel
Two piece collar with stand
Collar & rever
Shawl collar
Mandarin
Library
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L I B R A RY
Sleeve Variations
54
Dropped
Frilled
Capped extended
Leg o’ mutton
Two piece
Kimono
Peasant
Lantern
Virago
Capped
Raglan
Raglan with yoke
Puff
Bishop with long cuff
Library
Bell
Bishop
LIBRARY A variety of illustrations and styles have been included to show how easily a basic body template can be manipulated to appeal to a particular target market.
Library
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L I B R A RY
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Library
FASHION
Debra Laraman
The Easy Draw method of fashion drawing is suitable for any student of fashion design at either a secondary or tertiary level. It is a great aid for those working in the industry who want a quick and accurate tool and will expedite the process of drawing by ensuring all garments are accurate and symmetrical. The system is very easy to use and would assist those with little experience or those wishing to build on their drawing skills. The booklet and ruler system is intended to take you step by step through a structured and systematic method of drawing that will allow you to achieve a good result in a minimum of time.
