Fashion Designer eGuide

StyleCareer.com eGuide Breaking Into and Succeeding as a Fashion Designer

By Jennie S. Bev

StyleCareer.com eGuide – Fashion Designer

Legal Notice 2003 © Copyright Notice: This eGuide is proprietary and protected by U.S. and international copyright laws and treaties. No part of this eGuide may be reproduced or transmitted in any forms or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any other information retrieval or storage system, without prior permission from the publisher StyleCareer.com and the author Jennie S. Bev. The legal owner of this eGuide is permitted to make two electronic and two print copies for personal use. Permission for making additional copies must be addressed to StyleCareer.com. Violating this user agreement will cause in legal prosecution(s). Disclaimer: The author, editors, publisher and distributor of this eGuide have worked hard to provide you with high quality and accurate information. However, we are not responsible for any damages arising out of or in connection with the use of this intellectual property. We do not make any guarantees on the income as a result of using the tips, strategies, concepts and principles contained herein. All products, names and trademarks or registered trademarks belong to the respective owners. Printed in the United States of America 2003 © StyleCareer.com/Jennie S. Bev Cover design by Desirae Beberniss, www.Astralmatrix.net Edited by Suman Mudamula ISBN 0-9678619-1-8

StyleCareer.com Insider Tips to Break Into and Succeed in Fashion and Image Careers www.StyleCareer.com Customer Service: [email protected] Permission: [email protected]

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StyleCareer.com eGuide – Fashion Designer

How to Use This eGuide Most people get accustomed to reading on computer screen pretty quickly. Reading an electronic book is very similar to reading printed books. The only difference is the medium. How do I navigate? If you can read this page, you must have already downloaded and installed Adobe Reader in your computer. Some newer computers even have this software pre-installed. Navigating eGuides, thus, shouldn’t be a problem. However, if you’re new to Adobe Reader or reading eBooks, let me assure you that using this guide is just like surfing the Web. Feel free to move up and down using the scrollbar located at the side of your computer screen or the arrow buttons at the bottom of the screen next to the page number box. When you find an underlined text, feel free to click. It will open up your browser and take you directly to Web resources from which you can learn more about the subjects. Obsolete Links? Please note that these are external links, which mean they belong to the lawful owners of the sites and we are not responsible for updating the information contained therein. However, we will do our best to update the links in our eGuides periodically. If you find dead or obsolete links, feel free to let us know at [email protected], so we can make changes to our guides and send you a complimentary updated copy. If you need to download the free version of Adobe Reader, use the following link:

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StyleCareer.com eGuide – Fashion Designer

About the Author Jennie S. Bev is a book author, fashion writer, syndicated columnist, instructional designer and business consultant. As of April 2003, her byline has appeared in four other books (this is her fifth) and over 800 articles published in tens of international and regional publications in the United States, the United Kingdom, Canada, France and Southeast Asia. Prior to writing for StyleCareer.com, Jennie worked for a fashion magazine as a contributing columnist specializing in the fashion industry, which has earned her the prestigious offer to act as a member of the judging panel for Indie Fashion Award Festival in New York City. The contest is conducted annually by Bright and Aspiring Designers (BAD Expo), a non-profit organization that supports new independent fashion designers. As an accomplished author, Jennie S. Bev was named 2003 EPPIE Award finalist for excellence in electronic publishing under Non-Fiction How-To category. She holds an MBA from a Southern Californian business school and an MS in Education from California State University Hayward. She also attended professional certification programs in Technical Writing at UC Berkeley and UCLA extensions. In StyleCareer.com eGuide Breaking Into and Succeeding as a Fashion Designer, she interviewed a pool of successful fashion designers, professionals and consultants to provide a rare insider look into the industry and the profession. Their insightful advice combined with Jennie’s strong research skills and fashion writing experiences provide the readers with the necessary tools to succeed in this highly lucrative and competitive field. Jennie resides in San Francisco bay area, one of the most beautiful regions in the world, with her beloved husband and 400 books in her living room. She loves traveling and animals, particularly canines. She has traveled extensively to many “fashion cities” and around the world and is available for interviews and consulting assignments. She loves to hear from her readers too, so don’t wait to send off your comments to [email protected].

Other downloadable books by Jennie S. Bev: StyleCareer.com eGuides for Breaking Into and Succeeding in Fashion and Image Careers http://www.stylecareer.com FabJob.com Guide to Become a Management Consultant http://www.fabjob.com/managementconsultant.asp?affiliate=236 Write Industry Reports: Work at Home and Start Earning $5,000 in Royalties per Month http://www.writingcareer.com/bev001.shtml

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StyleCareer.com eGuide – Fashion Designer

Contents How to Use This eGuide .......................................................................................3 About the Author...................................................................................................4 Contents ................................................................................................................5 Who Is This eGuide for?.......................................................................................8 The Myths, the Realities and the Basics .............................................................9 I Have Never Worn “Designer” Clothes… ....................................................... 9 I Cannot Draw nor Sew… ............................................................................. 10 I Cannot Afford to Attend Fashion School… ................................................. 11 I Live Far Away from New York City….......................................................... 12 Who Creates Fashion Trends? ..................................................................... 13 Is There a Place for Down-to-Earth People in this Glamorous Industry? ...... 13 What are the Benefits for Being a Fashion Designer? .................................. 14 Where Can I Learn about Fashion History?.................................................. 15 Getting Ready for the Big Break ........................................................................17 Industry Size ................................................................................................. 17 Details of Market Size and Employment .................................................... 17 From Trends to Final Products (Fashion Cycle) ........................................... 19 Trends Creation......................................................................................... 19 From Trends to Samples ........................................................................... 21 Promotion .................................................................................................. 22 Production and Distribution........................................................................ 23 “What Does It Mean?” (Terminologies) ......................................................... 24 Classifications............................................................................................... 25 Men’s, Women’s and Children................................................................... 25 Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear ........................................................... 26 Accessories, Footwear and Handbag........................................................ 28 Special Sizes ............................................................................................. 28 Price Zone ................................................................................................. 28 Personality Traits .......................................................................................... 29 Creativity.................................................................................................... 29 Willingness to Learn .................................................................................. 33 Perseverance ............................................................................................ 33 Skills of the Trade ......................................................................................... 33 Basic Anatomy........................................................................................... 34 Visual Synthesizing ................................................................................... 34

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Drawing ..................................................................................................... 35 Computer-Assisted Drawing ...................................................................... 36 Color Selection .......................................................................................... 36 Fabric Selection......................................................................................... 37 Budgeting .................................................................................................. 37 Pattern-making .......................................................................................... 38 Draping ...................................................................................................... 38 Sewing....................................................................................................... 39 To Go to School or Not to Go to School........................................................ 40 Advantages of Fashion Schools ................................................................ 40 Disadvantages of Fashion Schools ........................................................... 40 Advantages of Self-Study .......................................................................... 40 Disadvantages of Self-Study ..................................................................... 41 Top Fashion Schools................................................................................. 41 Fashion School Directories........................................................................ 42 Alternative and Distance Learning............................................................. 43 When You’re Ready… Design Contests! ...................................................... 44 Career Game Plan ...............................................................................................46 How Much You Can Expect to Earn, Pros and Cons.................................... 46 Working for Others .................................................................................... 46 Working for Yourself .................................................................................. 46 Gaining Experience ...................................................................................... 47 Locating Employers ................................................................................... 47 Career Choices.......................................................................................... 48 Résumé ..................................................................................................... 50 Portfolio ..................................................................................................... 50 Interviewing and Presentation Skills .......................................................... 51 Internship................................................................................................... 52 Starting Your Own Studio ............................................................................. 53 Is Entrepreneurship for You?..................................................................... 53 Resources ................................................................................................. 57 Choosing Your Specialty ........................................................................... 57 Market Research ....................................................................................... 59 Business Legal Structure........................................................................... 60 Partnership? .............................................................................................. 61 Setting Up the Studio................................................................................. 62 Pricing Your Services ................................................................................ 64 Roads Less Traveled................................................................................. 67

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Being Successful ................................................................................................68 Success Traits .............................................................................................. 68 Perseverance ............................................................................................ 68 Entrepreneurial Spirit................................................................................. 69 Customer Service ...................................................................................... 70 Promoting Your Business ............................................................................. 71 Publicity ..................................................................................................... 71 Trade Shows and Fashion Weeks............................................................. 75 Get Listed in Merchandiser Marts.............................................................. 76 Buyer’s Open Calls.................................................................................... 76 Manufacturer Representatives................................................................... 77 Outsourcing the Manufacturing..................................................................... 78 Joining Professional and Trade Organizations ............................................. 79 Organizations for Small Businesses .......................................................... 80 Professional Organizations and Trade Associations ................................. 80 Keeping Up with the Trends and Industry News ........................................... 82 International Fashion Weeks ..................................................................... 82 Industry News and Trends......................................................................... 83 Success Profiles .................................................................................................85 Ulla Bazant ................................................................................................... 85 Aimee Capobianco ....................................................................................... 87 Jennifer Dewey ............................................................................................. 89 Karen and Warren Hipwell ............................................................................ 91 Elisa Victoria Jimenez................................................................................... 93 Alexander Julian ........................................................................................... 95 Shawn K. Lively ............................................................................................ 97 Vivek Nagrani ............................................................................................... 99 Kathy Peterson ........................................................................................... 100 Other Fashion Careers .....................................................................................102

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Who Is This eGuide for? StyleCareer.com eGuide Breaking Into and Succeeding as a Fashion Designer has been carefully researched and professional written and edited to help fashion job seekers in breaking into the career of their dream. Whether you’re a career changer, a new graduate or an aspiring talent, we’re confident that you’ll be able to learn a lot from it. We have included most of the aspects of the profession, including lesser-known facts, insider tips and insightful advice to win the first job as well as the online resources to the basic trade skills for self-study (so you can learn without going to school, if you shall choose). We have also included hundreds of bonus links to various Web sites from which you’ll be able to learn more about the complexities of the industry not available elsewhere. In a nutshell, this eGuide is all you need to understand the fashion world --its cycle, the must-have trade skills, the business aspects, and the support needed to ride the express train to success. While we have no intention whatsoever to replace the help of professionals, we are confident that this eGuide provides a meaningful contribution in the process of your becoming a successful fashion designer.

Sincerely,

Jennie S. Bev Author and Editor-in-Chief StyleCareer.com www.stylecareer.com [email protected]

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The Myths, the Realities and the Basics “Fashion designing is a critical thinking process which occurs within the mind of the designer.” !"Dr. Elizabeth Rhodes, Dean of the Kent State School of Fashion Design and Merchandising

Not everything you know is true. Not everything you know about the fashion industry is true. Much of the stuff you heard are no more than myths or perceived images created by skilled marketers of the industry with the help of the media. Some of the myths surrounding the fashion industry and the fashion designing profession are: o o o o

Fashion industry is glamorous; Fashion industry only caters to upscale lifestyle; Fashion designers live in New York City or Paris; and Only affluent designer wannabes can afford to go to fashion schools

As if it was not reiterated enough, let me assure you that they are nothing but myths. The realities are far different.

I Have Never Worn “Designer” Clothes… You’re not alone. Not everybody has worn “designer” clothes, such as Prada, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Vera Wang, etc., if that’s what you meant by it. But do you know that all clothes are actually designed by fashion designers? Yes, all and every one of them.

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Many people misunderstand the meaning of “fashion designers” by delimiting it to high profile, world-class designers whose exclusive boutiques are conveniently located on Manhattan’s Seventh Avenue. This is not true; so, let’s start with a blank canvas. Imagine your favorite pair of blue jeans. It’s so simple and doesn’t look glamorous at all. You wear them everywhere when shopping for groceries or attending night school. You even wear them when indulging in your favorite past time activities: gardening and hanging out on bingo nights. You purchased them at a K-Mart around the block instead of the posh Stanford Shopping Center in Palo Alto. Yes, you’re right. Despite its ordinary look, an everyday piece of clothing is a work of a designer. The work of a fashion designer conceptualizing the style of a garment, which is usually drawn on a piece of paper called “sketch”, and making sure that the final wearable product is a three-dimensional rendering of the original idea. This applies to all types of clothes, including underwears, simple T-shirts and other everyday garments. Thus, we should say that we all wear designer clothes. There is, however, a term “designer collection,” which we will discuss in the upcoming sections. AHA Moment! All clothes are designers’ clothes. A “designer collection” refers to a seasonal line created by top designers. Both concepts should not be confused.

I Cannot Draw nor Sew… Most professional designers know how to draw and sew; but, if you cannot, don’t despair. There are many ways to polish these skills as long as you have the perseverance and the motivation to learn.

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Beginners will need to draw sketches of their designs by themselves: such skill comes very handy. And yes, you will eventually need to learn how to draw. Of course, you don’t need to learn how to be a professional sketch artist. As long as you understand the basic anatomy and express your ideas easily, you are fine. Not all designers sew their designs themselves. They can have a design made into a wearable product by having someone else sew it for them. Most beginning designers, however, need to sew their own designs due to the high cost of sub-contracting. This eGuide will show you how you can learn the basics of these valuable skills without spending a fortune. I have also included some valuable resources where you can get free drawing templates and pattern making tips that you can use in creating and producing your designs.

I Cannot Afford to Attend Fashion School… You are not alone. For many reasons, not many people have the privilege to afford prestigious fashion schooling. Most people cannot spend a few years studying full-time towards a degree in Fashion Design due to career or other commitments. Others cannot because of their family obligations. Thus, the next question is: can you then become a fashion designer without ever going to fashion school? Of course you can, because there are many ways to prepare yourself for this career. Designers such as Kate Spade, Ralph Lauren and Todd Oldham –who are household names-- never went to fashion school. Neither did thousands other designers: particularly those who work in-house as corporate designers, worldwide. Of course, everybody knows that school does help. There you’ll learn systematic thinking and shortcuts. You’ll be introduced to many people, including well-established designers who teach the classes. You’ll make many lifelong friendships with fellow classmates that you will cherish forever.

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Luckily, fashion designing is unlike being a medical doctor that requires extensive classroom and hands-on training; and it also involves huge social responsibility. In many ways, the skills can be self-taught by repetition and keen observation. TIP This eGuide will show you how to gain useful trade skills that are taught in fashion schools through self-study. Imagine how much money you can actually save by using this eGuide. Even though it is not a substitute to fashion school, it provides the basics and resources to help you get started with confidence.

I Live Far Away from New York City… Yes, I heard you. You live in a town of 250,000 people or even less. Do you need to move to New York City to pursue your dream career? If you want to, of course, you’re welcomed to do so. But it is never the absolute answer. There are many types of fashion designers; of which some can be found in any city. Are there any clothing stores in your hometown? Most likely there are. Are there any local, including home-based, fashion designers in your town? Most likely there are at least a few, if you pay close attention. I am pretty confident that there must be a few fashion designers even in the smallest towns, as long as you know where to look. Still think New York City is a better place for this career? Give it a thought… o New York City is a great place to find internship positions with high-profile designers, but your hometown is very likely to have local designer studios and boutiques as well where you can get your feet wet; and

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o If starting your own studio is your goal, you can literally start it anywhere, including from your own home, as long as you have access to the market – people in your hometown. AHA Moment! You can become a fashion designer regardless of where you live, particularly if you decide to go solo. Major fashion cities provide better opportunities, if you like to work for others.

Who Creates Fashion Trends? OK, we will cover this topic in-depth separately in Getting Ready section. To give you a picture, there is an international committee consisting of volunteers in the fashion, textile and furnishing industries that determines color and material trends every 6 months for the four seasons, 18 to 24 months ahead. The purpose of creating seasonal “color trends” is to boost the sales of colors and shades other than the “neutral” ones, such as white, gray, tan and black. Less-conventional fabrics, like velour and polyester georgette, also need special boosting from the industry. AHA Moment! Without the help of the industry, sales would be a flat line and the world is not this colorful.

Is There a Place for Down-to-Earth People in this Glamorous Industry? I would be totally surprised if you can show me a designer who simply sits around watching TV and eating caviar all day. Professional fashion designers are hard-working people. They are energetic, extremely

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creative and work long hours for months to bring you the best designs for the season. It is true, however, that many people consider the fashion industry glamorous because of the images it brings by: o Tall, slim and beautiful models walking the runways; o Glossy classy and colorful ads in fashion magazines; and o Magazine articles and TV news about popular designers working on their latest collections All these glamorous and glitzy images created by the media are “responsible” for the general perception of the industry. Once you get to know a fashion designer in person, you will find he or she is just like everyone else. So, if you aren’t sure whether you belong to this exciting world of fashion, let me assure you that you are. As long as you have the perseverance, the motivation to succeed and the willingness to learn, you will eventually earn your place. Also, don’t ever forget that all clothes are designer clothes, including the simplest and the most modest ones. You can choose a specialization that will help you produce everyday clothes instead of glittery evening dresses, exclusively designed for Oscar nominees. AHA Moment! The glamorous image of the fashion industry is created by the media to attract buyers and consumers. You have the choice over whether you’d like to be recognized as a glam designer (or not) by selecting the specialization(s) that you’re comfortable with.

What are the Benefits for Being a Fashion Designer? A fashion designer takes part in shaping consumer trends by making their designs available for the greater public. She brings out the “style” in people and gets satisfaction from doing so.

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A fashion designer also enjoys the prestigious image of being a celebrity, regardless of his seniority. A fashion designer is often perceived as a highly interesting and artistic person who possesses genuine aesthetic qualities. And of course, people would love to know a fashion designer! Another salivating benefit of being a fashion designer is the earning potential. Senior, self-employed fashion designers can earn millions of dollars annually. Can you imagine how much Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Vera Wang earn per year? According to The Princeton Review, entry-level designers earn anywhere between $20,000 and $30,000. Top designers can expect to earn $200,000 or more depending on their experience. AHA Moment! Fashion designers enjoy social privileges for being members of the creative world. Financial rewards will eventually come with customer and public acceptance.

Where Can I Learn about Fashion History? For a brief yet comprehensive historical timeline of modern fashion, refer to FactMonster.com. You’ll find it very enlightening. FactMonster.com Modern Fashion History page http://www.factmonster.com/ipka/A0878218.html To satisfy your curiosity, I’ve included the following site from which you can learn more about “Who’s Who” in New York fashion industry. This walk of fame honors exceptional designers who contributed to the industry. They include Coty award winners. Fashion Walk of Fame (NY) http://www.fashioncenter.com/walkoFame/walkofFame2002Hon.ht ml

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AHA Moment! If you’re considering applying for an internship or entry-level position in a fashion house, the information from the above Web sites will be particularly useful to impress the interviewer.

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Getting Ready for the Big Break This section prepares you to break into the fashion designing profession. Here you’ll find everything you need to know about the industry and what you must have to ensure a successful career: Size of the fashion industry; Fashion cycle from trends to final products; Classifications in the fashion industry; Popular terminologies that are often confusing; Personality traits of successful fashion designers; Skills of the trade you must have and how to obtain them (through fashion schools and alternative methods); and o Design contests to create a boost to your new career o o o o o o

Industry Size According to The Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC), a nonprofit consortium of labor, industry and government dedicated to the apparel industry based in New York City, the apparel market is a $172 billion industry nationwide.

Details of Market Size and Employment Details of the industry nationwide [Source: GIDC]: o o o o o

U.S. market size: $172 billion; Employment total: 4.64 million people; Employment in retail sales: 3.6 million people; Employment in apparel production: 573,000 people; and Employment in textile production: 470,000 people

Details of New York City fashion industry [Source: GIDC]: o Fashion showrooms: 5,000;

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Total sales volume: $14 billion; Wholesale sales volume: $12 billion; Retail sales volume: $2 billion; Apparel production: 28% of all women’s dresses and 18% of all women’s outerwear nationwide o Fashion schools: 8; o Fashion visitors (buyers, industry professionals, etc.): 125,000 people; and o Other non-fashion purchases related to fashion visitors (accommodations, transportations, meals, etc.): $100 million o o o o

For more detailed information of the U.S. fashion industry, you might want to check Infomat.com. This site includes a list of links covering the statistics of the apparel and textile industries. For Canadian fashion industry, Strategis.ic.ga.ca covers the details. For data from other countries, International Apparel Federation includes the lists of associations in foreign countries, from which you can get detailed information on each country’s market size. Canadian Apparel Industry Statistics provided by Canada’s Business and Consumer Site Strategis.ic.gc.ca http://strategis.ic.gc.ca/epic/internet/inapparelvetements.nsf/vwGeneratedInterE/home The Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC) http://www.gidc.org International Apparel Federation http://www.iafnet.org

AHA Moment! Now that you know how large the fashion market is ($172 billion in the United States alone), you’ll be able to use the information to help you map the pathway to your dream career and to see what to expect from the competition.

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From Trends to Final Products (Fashion Cycle) You see the always-changing trends in fashion. Whenever you walk into a department store, the atmosphere changes seasonally. Colors change, styles change, even the interior design of the store changes. You might have been wondering how fashion designers “know” what the trends are (such as when to design more mini skirts, use pastel colors or create those grunge-vintage looks) and who are “responsible” for them. OK, the answer is: every six months, trendsetters determine the upcoming seasonal trends 18 to 24 months in advance. Thus, we can say that the whole fashion cycle is 18 months -- from trend creation to the final products. Next time when you purchase a new piece of clothing, you’ll see it in a different light. It takes the industry 18 months to have the product readied for you, from the time of its conception to its release.

Trends Creation Twice a year, Committee for Colors and Trends (an international organization) and Color Association of the United States determines the seasonal color, texture and material trends, 18 to 24 months in advance. The Committee for Colors and Trends provides forecasts in the following categories: 1. Leather, Texture, Color and Material o Leather color story (actual leathers); o New textures; o New non-leathers and fabrics; and o Fashion Moods 2. Footwear o Dress/Tailored; o Casual; o Fun/Active; o Last, heel and construction concepts;

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o Ready-to-wear trends; and o Merchandising moods 3. Handbags, Belts and Personal Leathergoods o Handbags, belts and personal leathergoods trends o Specific silhouettes and shapes o New hardware, ornamentation and treatments 4. Jewelry, Hair Accessories, Watches and Sunglasses o Jewelry, hair accessories, watches and sunglasses; o Evolving concepts; o Metal finishes, motifs, themes; o Ready-to-wear trends and merchandising moods; and o Seasonal Pantone reference numbers Because of their financial value, the trend reports are available for purchase. They are divided as follows: o o o o

Spring I Spring II or Summer Fall I Fall II or Winter

For complimentary trend reports, which are quite limited, you might want to try NPD Fashionworld’s Web site, a research firm that specializes in the fashion industry. From time to time, they publish free articles on fashion industry trends. Color Association of the United States http://www.colorassociation.com/docs/noflash.html Committee for Colors and Trends (international) http://www.color-trends.com NPD Fashionworld http://www.npdfashionworld.com

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From Trends to Samples Now the color and material trends are pre-determined, textile mills are among the first ones to use them. They need such trend reports to design new fabrics for the upcoming seasons, which are usually 18 to 24 months away. Major textile mill showrooms are located in fashion cities, such as New York, Paris, London, Tokyo and Hong Kong. Smaller mills usually participate in trade shows, which can be found in most major cities around the globe. Information on textile mills and trade shows can be obtained from: American Textile Manufacturers Institute http://www.atmi.org British Apparel and Textiles Confederation http://www.batc.co.uk European Apparel and Textile Organization http://www.euratex.org Textile Contact http://www.textilecontact.com Textile News http://www.textiles.com

After the prototypes of new fabrics are ready, apparel companies represented by fashion merchandisers and designers go to the showrooms or trade shows to purchase textile samples. These will be used to create new design samples of the wearable final products. In the next stage, fashion designers of apparel companies work hard to create 40 to 60 new designs per line. Of course, prior to having the samples produced, they draw hundreds of sketches adhering to the forecasted trends. With the help of fit models who try on the prototypes made of “muslin” (an inexpensive type of fabric), the design committee makes its 25 to 30 semi-final choices from those 40 to 60 new designs. Next, they make several samples

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using the actual fabric for each of the final 15 to 20 designs ready to offer to the retailers. Overall, it would take six to twelve weeks to prepare for one line up to this point. HINT Fit models are models used by design studios or apparel companies to wear design samples to see if they actually fit in particularly sizes before going to mass production. Their sizes reflect that of their target market. For instance, if the apparel company manufactures plus-size clothing, then size 16 or larger models are needed.

Promotion This stage is probably the most challenging but extremely rewarding for fashion people. Fashion marketers work closely with the designers to buzz the new line: o Line sheet, which is a catalog, is printed; o Runways are prepared and trade shows are conducted; and o Press releases are sent to the media Invitations to shows are sent to buyers who work for: o o o o

Boutiques; Retail department stores; Online and mail order companies; and Budget and seconds stores (such as K-Mart, Ross, TJMaxx, etc.)

In this period, marketers and buyers come together to learn from each other: to see what are offered, to negotiate for better prices and eventually to close deals. Members of the press are usually invited to cover shows in order to generate publicity in mainstream and industry media. A closed deal is sealed with Purchasing Agreement, in which the terms are explained. Failure to fulfill the agreed terms will result in penalties or, even, legal suits. The agreement includes the following clauses: o Corporate information of both buying and selling parties; o Order style;

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Quantity; Price; Delivery method; Delivery address; Penalties for late and unsatisfactory delivery; Choice of legal resolution methods (court or arbitration) should a suit arises; and o Other terms that both parties have agreed upon o o o o o o

In large companies, the legal department handles such agreements. In smaller ones, freelance legal counsels are often contracted to assist in the negotiation, closing and signing processes.

Production and Distribution After deals are closed, apparel manufacturers work to fulfill orders. First of all, they place orders with textile manufacturers, which would take a few weeks for the fabric to be ready. Therefore, during this period, fashion designers make sure that their designs are ready to go. Patterns are carefully constructed and details are thoroughly considered. HINT Pattern is the flat rendition of a piece of clothing. When a fashion designer completes a sketch by hand or by using CAD software, she needs to create a template from which the fabric will be cut and constructed so that the piece can be realized. It must include additional measurement to provide space for seaming, stretch or shrinkage. That template is called pattern. As soon as the fabric is ready, textile mills will ship it promptly to apparel manufacturers, where it is properly cut, sewn and finished as ordered. During the manufacturing process, the quality of every piece is carefully monitored. Irregular and defective pieces will be separated from the perfect ones and placed in the so-called “dump” pile.

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The good pieces will be packed and shipped to the buyer utilizing freight forwarding service under the agreed terms. The defectives and irregulars will be offered to seconds stores or be destroyed. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “In the next five to ten years, I believe that young designers will push toward wearable yet special designs. Instead of throwaway clothing, I see a movement toward greater quality and less excess. In the United States, people wanted to fill their closets in excess, while in Europe they have always spent more money for fewer items of greater quality. I see the trend in the United States moving in that direction.” !"Karen and Warren Hipwell, Founders of Karen Warren Ltd., a fashion company that supply more than 100 boutiques across the United States.

“What Does It Mean?” (Terminologies) Let’s discuss two of the most confusing terminologies: “collection” and “line.” What does “collection” and “line” mean? Are they the same? The answer is yes and no. YES - Both terms refer to groupings of designs pre-determined for a particular season offered by an apparel company. There are at least four lines or collections offered per year: o o o o

Spring I Spring II or Summer Fall I Fall II or Winter

Additional lines or collections include: o Holiday and Resort o Active and Sportswear

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NO – “Collection” refers to groupings of seasonal designs offered by designer houses. Only high-priced world-class designers offer collections, such as Christian Dior, Chanel, Prada, etc. “Line” refers to groupings of seasonal designs offered by apparel companies, such as Express, The Limited, Banana Republic, etc. Naturally, “lines” are priced lower than “collections.” To sum it up, “collections” are more pricey than “lines.”

Classifications There are several ways to classify fashion: o o o o o

Men’s, women’s and children; Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear; Accessories, footwear and handbag; Special Sizes; and Price Zone

Men’s, Women’s and Children The U.S. classifications of men’s, women’s and children apparel are as follows: Men’s o Tailored Clothing (suits, evening wear, overcoats, separate trousers, and sport coats); o Sportswear (casual jackets, sport shirts and pants); o Work Wear (work pants, work shirts and overalls); o Active Sportswear (athletic wear, shorts, sweat shirts and windbreakers); and o Furnishings (shirts, sweaters, necktie, underwear, robes, and socks) Women’s o Dresses (career/social dresses, skirts, and ladies’ suits); o Blouses (blouses, shirts, and other tops);

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o Outerwear (coats); o Evening/bridal (wedding gowns, evening gowns, cocktail dresses and prom/pageant dresses; o Active wear (athletic wear); o Sportswear (casuals, shorts, pants, and sport shirts); o Maternity (clothing for pregnancy); o Uniforms (work pants, work shirts, and cotton uniforms; o Furs (coats, hats, and muffs); and o Intimates (bras, shapers, petticoats, panties and slips) Children Children’s apparel is classified by age and size from infancy to young junior. o o o o o o o

Young junior (sizes 3 to 13); Sub teen girls (sizes 6 to 14); Girls (sizes 7 to 14); Boys (sizes 6 to 20); Children’s (sizes Xs from 3X); Toddlers (sizes Ts from 2T); and Infants (3 months to 24 months)

Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear World-class designers, such as Christian Lacroix, Chanel, Dior, Yves St. Laurent and Pierre Cardin are renowned for their haute couture, which means “high fashion” in French. Haute couture apparel is custom-made based on individual client’s measurements. Clients are carefully measured to ensure exact fit and ultimate comfort. The apparel is usually sewn by both hand and machine for perfection. A prototype made of muslin material will be created for fitting purposes before creating the actual one. After several fittings, the actual clothing will be created using expensive fabric. Again, the client must be present for at least one fitting before the final touchups. For all the legworks and expensive materials, a piece of haute couture costs anywhere from $15,000 to $100,000 or more.

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Not every fashion designer can be considered a haute couture designer. He must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris and there are only 18 of them worldwide. The world’s only 18 couturiers as listed by Fédération Française de la Couture are: 1. Adeline André 2. Pierre Balmain 3. Carven 4. Chanel 5. Christian Dior 6. Christian Lacroix 7. Dominique Sirop 8. Emanuel Ungaro 9. Frank Sorbier 10. Givenchy 11. Grès 12. Jean Paul Gaultier 13. Ted Lapidus 14. Pierre Cardin 15. Thierry Mugler 16. Valentino 17. Versace 18. Yves St. Laurent A new designer, thus, should expect to overcome many hurdles before he is comfortable with the demanding job of designing haute couture. This explains why most new designers work with Ready-to-Wear market. As it is self-explanatory, Ready-to-Wear clothing is sold as “ready to wear.” Manufactures produce them in large quantities and customers wear them as they bought. Of course, there are sizes to fit every body type (S, M, and L). If needed, certain stores offer alteration service to better fit the clothing to the customer. Unless you’re among the only 2,000 clients of haute couture worldwide (of which 60 percent are Americans), the clothes in your bedroom closet most likely belong to Ready-to-Wear category. As it goes without saying, the market of Ready-to-Wear clothing is unlimited.

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Accessories, Footwear and Handbag The sky is the limit in this category. Anything that brings out the “style” in you, can be considered an “accessory.” The classifications are: o o o o o o o o

Millinery (hats and headwears); Scarves and neckwear ; Jewelry (fine, bridge and costume); Belts, handbags and other leather goods; Hosiery and legwear (socks, pantyhose, and tights); Footwear (shoes and sandals); Gloves and umbrellas; and Eyewear (glasses and sunglasses)

Special Sizes For both men’s and women’s classifications, there are two special sizes that some designers and apparel companies specialize in: o Plus size (sized as Xs, such as Big & Tall, Avenue); and o Petité (sized as Ps, such as Alfani Petité, Petité Sophisticate)

Price Zone In addition to the functional classifications, the Ready-to-Wear apparel industry is also categorized based on the wholesale price. Below are the five classifications with the most expensive on the top of the list: o Designer (designers’ collections, such as Armani, Donna Karan, Lacroix and Versace); o Bridge (slightly lower than designer’s collections, such as Armani X and Ellen Tracy); o Better (targeting the higher-earning middle class, such as Anne Klein, Calvin Klein, Jones New York and Talbots); o Moderate (moderate price range, affordable by youths, such as Banana Republic, Esprit, Guess, The Gap, Levi’s, The Limited and Eddie Bauer); o Mass or Budget (the lowest price range, available in neighborhood department stores, seconds and budget stores such as K-Mart, Sears

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Target, Ross and TJMaxx labeled as Cherokee, Kathy Ireland, and Jaclyn Smith) AHA Moment! There are many classifications in the fashion industry but none is better than the other. The only difference is the target market (customers). Designer, bridge and better categories, however, enjoy more media coverage and upscale image.

Personality Traits There is no specific formula on who will succeed and who will fail in fashion industry. However, in order to break into it, there are at least three major traits that will influence the quality of your journey: creativity, willingness and perseverance.

Creativity Creativity is the buzzword in this business. Designers are paid to create. They must make something outstanding, wearable and marketable out of a blank canvas. We can see the differences in styles and moods in different designers, which distinguish one from the others. But how creative is “sufficiently creative” for a designer? The answer is not written in stone as it depends on various factors. The first factor is of course your personal style. Your personality and preferences determine the styles and designs you create. Versace, for instance, has an upbeat personality, which is reflected in bold colors and patterns. Chanel collections are chic and timeless since Coco Chanel, the founder, was probably a classy lady with a great sense of style. The second factor is “what types of creativity are needed”? There are 3Cs. o Creativity to create something out of nothing;

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o Creativity to design a style that is wearable; and o Creativity to produce wearable clothing that is marketable (and profitable) Creativity to Create Something Out of Nothing A writer experiences the so-called writer’s block. Designers experience it too: designer’s block. This term is used to describe a phenomenon in which an artist cannot function creatively. Unlike working in other professions, designing requires the ability to project new ideas frequently. The ideas must be fresh and interesting. Some variations of existing concepts are acceptable, as long as there are new elements that fit in the pre-determined trends for the season. Therefore, the ability to keep new ideas flowing is of utmost importance in this career. Without it, repetition occurs, which would hurt the business. Now, how can you train yourself to be creative? There are several ways to increase and maintain creativity in everyday activities: o Be very mindful of your surroundings (colors, sounds, shapes, smells and other senses); o Mentally “analyze” a piece of apparel based on its color, style, materials, weight and other elements; o Correlate your “analysis” with fashion history (what period, whether anybody you know wore something like that, etc.); and o Find an interesting angle of a piece of apparel and give a careful thought to make it more attractive (mentally change, add and switch some elements of the piece) Creativity to Design Wearable Styles You can draw any style you want, as extravagant or as artistic as possible. Just make sure that your designs can actually be constructed three-dimensionally. Drawing does require imagination and flow if creative juices, but turning a design into a wearable piece is a different skill altogether.

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You will have to break down the design into parts and create the flat rendition of it, which is called pattern. This requires a different type of creativity, which can be learned in school or through self-taught activities. Pattern-making skill will be covered in the following Skills of the Trade section. However, even though you understand the principles, it is not a guarantee that you’ll be able to make perfect renditions. Creativity, once again, comes into play. The more creative you are, the more you will be able to “improvise” in making pattern structures and shortcuts that ensure comfort for the wearer and the best possible final look. Creativity to Produce Wearable Clothing that is Marketable Isaac Mizrahi was one of the most talented designers in our lifetime. He has won many awards and his designs have received accolades for being artistic, innovative and highly skillful. Thus, why did he close his design house in 1998? The answer is simple. His designs were not wearable. While they were great on runways, when worn by models, regular customers did not find them wearable. They might have been too bold or too cumbersome to wear, or, customers couldn’t find an appropriate occasion to wear them. Mizrahi’s is an example of a different type of creativity that is likely to fail in this business. Pure art is probably not going to work. Perhaps art with commercial elements works much better. This explains why everyday clothing lines enjoy high acceptance. Casual, career and work clothes are among the best-selling products. After all, if you can’t sell them why did you design them in the first place? Unless you inherited $50 million from your rich uncle, it’s very likely that you’ll eventually need to earn a living from your designs. Agree? AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “Personal attributes important for this career: good color sense, feeling of what is going to happen in the future, appreciation of textiles, rampant creativity, thick skin, massive self-confidence, self-motivation and luck.” !"Alexander Julian, winner of five Coty Awards, every major design award in men’s wear and the youngest inductee to the

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Coty Fashion Hall of Fame in 1980. He designed many TV and movie costumes as well as University of North Carolina’s basketball team uniform. He is also the first fashion designer to be recognized with the top award of the American Society of Furniture Designers for his home products. “Creativity can be nurtured and developed. A person must possess creativity to succeed as a designer.” !"Aimee Capobianco, Founder of Aimee Capobianco, LLC www.aimeecapobianco.com, a design company that produces vintage-inspired handbags and accessories. “The most successful fashion designers are also excellent business and marketing people. Look at Tommy Hilfiger or Ralph Lauren, for example. Their design style is not extremely creative, but marketed well.” !"Laura Portolese Dias, Academic Director of The School of Fashion, The Art Institute of Seattle. “A fashion designer is not just someone who draws pretty pictures, it is someone who can take ideas and make them into a garment that can be sold. Very often fashion designers are not taken seriously, they are thought of as daydreamers and the profession is looked at as just an interest or a hobby. It is important to describe a fashion designer as someone who can put the design into production and put out a garment that will sell. A fashion designer must have a good head about the business end of the industry, especially if he is self-employed.” !"Karen and Warren Hipwell, Founders of Karen Warren Ltd. “It is important to understand that your creativity in fashion has boundaries that don’t have to exist in art. You’re designing a product that people will hopefully want to wear; you’re not an artist. Many aspiring designers don’t get it – and they ultimately fail if they don’t correct their mistaken perspective.”

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!"Ulla Bazant, Founder of Ulla Bazant New York www.ullabazant.com. She is a cum laude graduate of the world renowned Fashion Institute of Technology and has won many prestigious design awards.

Willingness to Learn New designers continuously learn from their seniors, colleagues, customers, competitors and surroundings. While most of the basic skills in this trade can be learned within reasonable timeframe, the internalization takes awhile. Only with continuous learning that you’ll be able to take your skills to the next level. Apprenticeship, thus, plays an important role in nurturing what you already have. Whenever possible, have a senior fashion designer as your mentor. There is no better way to learn about a new career other than from those who’ve talked the talk and walked the walk. Having a mentor also creates a professional alliance, which is a great thing in the long run.

Perseverance Perseverance makes all the difference because it is the most important virtue of all. It is true that everybody fails. Some people must fail times before they rise. Oftentimes, failing means you’ll rise higher than before you fall. Perseverance keeps you in check when you fail and to make it a great learning experience instead of freezing you out. Remember, it is not how many times you fall but how you rise from it that makes you a better person.

Skills of the Trade There are ten skills of the trade that you must be familiar with in order to be called a fashion designer. Every fashion designer possesses such a set of skills, but of course, some are stronger in some skills and some in others. In the

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following list, you’ll find the description of what they are and whether you can substitute them whenever possible. The ten skills are: 1. Basic anatomy; 2. Visual synthesizing; 3. Drawing; 4. Computer-assisted drawing; 5. Color selection; 6. Fabric selection; 7. Budgeting; 8. Pattern-making; 9. Draping; and 10. Sewing

Basic Anatomy The key to perfect and comfort fit is correct body measurement, so the first skill you need to master is the basic anatomy. Since not everybody is a “perfect” size 10, get familiar with different body types, sizes and how they differ from each other. Adults and children have different proportions as well. The Home Sewing Association Taking Body Measurement http://www.sewing.org/html/ls-bodymeasure.html TIP When you’re taking measurement, make sure that you give some extra space (a few millimeters) between the surface and the measurement tape. Don’t be too tight or too loose. The tape should be able to move freely but not too loose that it could fall.

Visual Synthesizing By “visual synthesizing,” I’m referring to the ability to distill visual ideas from various sources to benefit your own designs. Please don’t confuse it with copying others’ designs.

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IMPORTANT Synthesizing is more like writing your own song after listening to the breaking waves at shore, copying is simply acknowledging others’ ideas as your own. Many designers get “inspired” when they travel. Colorful flowerbeds in Carlsbad, Calif., for instance, may ignite the inspiration to design bright-colored spring line. A visit to China’s Great Wall may inspire you to design a Chinese “chiong sam” in gray. It is an internal skill that needs to be nurtured continuously. Some tips to open your mind to new inspirations: o Relax (listen to relaxing music or nature recordings); o Meditate (yoga, tai chi and other new age activities may help); o Keep a writing journal (choose a beautiful journal, preferably with acidfree paper); o Travel to exotic places (choose places where the culture is different from where you live); o Socialize with family and friends (have fun, play hard, laugh more); o Try new things (do the things you’ve always wanted to do but haven’t gotten the chance or time for); o Find a different angle in everything (there must be at least one); or simply o Sit on a bench in a park and let your eyes and mind wander (enjoy and internalize the atmosphere, the weather and the scenery) Who says you need to spend a lot of money to get inspired?

Drawing Most designers hand draw their own sketches and renditions, unless they are senior designers in a top design house, this skill will come very handy. Beginners may also find drawing templates useful. Fashion-Era.com Fashion Template for Fashion Drawing http://www.fashion-era.com/fashion_templates.htm

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TIP A drawing template is an image used to provide correct proportion/measurements to which you can add your own designs and other aesthetic additions.

Computer-Assisted Drawing Many designers use computer software that draws the sketches and renditions for you. If you have this computer skill, you may use it instead of drawing by hand. ApparelNews.net CAD Software page http://www.apparelnews.net/Links/cad.html TIP Basic familiarity with computers, such as Windows and other programs, is extremely helpful in learning to use CAD software.

Color Selection A good designer works hard to make her clients look good. Unless she is familiar with the color wheels and theory, this task is an impossible mission. The Color Wheel Company http://www.colorwheelco.com Glamour Girls Inc., “How to Wear Color to Enhance Your Eye Color” http://www.glamourgirlsinc.com/eyecolortut.html HINT Colors create the dramatic effect to make a piece of clothing stands out without overbearing the wearer.

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Fabric Selection Experiment with different kinds of fabric: find out how they can come together, how they perform and drape. Some fabrics complement each other, while others are simply disastrous when assembled together. TIP Try constructing a piece of clothing utilizing two or three types of fabric, such as cotton, silk and polyester. See how they drape. Analyze what works and what doesn’t.

Budgeting Unless you’re a registered haute couturier, you can make the most beautiful evening gown in the world that costs a fortune, nobody would want to purchase it. You need to be creative yet realistic at the same time to create clothes that are wearable, comfortable and affordable. In a nutshell, the cost of a piece of clothing can be divided as: 1. Materials, such as o Fabric; o Buttons; o Thread; and o Ribbons 2. Labor o Hourly 3. Electricity 4. Miscellaneous o Transportation; o Depreciation (software, instruments, etc.) TIP Take budgeting classes at community colleges, if needed. You don’t need to be an accountant to be able to budget efficiently. With some high

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school arithmetical skills (adding and subtracting), you can help yourself a great deal. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “It is important to have a business plan and realistic expectations. It is also important to have some understanding of general accounting to be able to run a business effectively.” !"Aimee Capobianco, Founder of Aimee Capobianco, LLC www.aimeecapobianco.com.

Pattern-making Pattern is the flat rendition of a piece of clothing. When a fashion designer completes a sketch by hand or by using CAD software, she will need to create a template from which the fabric will be cut and constructed so that the piece can be realized. It must include additional measurement to provide space for seaming, stretch or shrinkage. That template is called pattern. The Home Sewing Association Pattern Know-How (PDF) http://www.sewing.org/files/GL-patterns.pdf TIP Pattern-making skill is invaluable to a fashion designer because no designs can be magically produced without it.

Draping Draping takes place when a fabric is draped on a three-dimensional medium, like a model or a mannequin. This process is usually done to learn more about the performance of the fabric or to see how the style looks either in muslin fabric or the actual material. Most designers don’t use this technique to actually create the piece. It is used mostly as a “rehearsal.”

TIP Use a mannequin that comes with adjustable measurements.

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Sewing Do you have to know how to sew? Yes and no. YES – You must know how a piece is sewn, so you can create the pattern and cut the materials. At minimum, you must understand how a piece of apparel is going to be sewn. NO – You don’t need to sew by yourself, if you’re considering using the help of assistants or outsourcing manufacturers. The Home Sewing Association Learn to Sew Tutorials http://www.sewing.org/html/learntosew.html

AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “Fashion designing is a critical thinking process which occurs within the mind of the designer. This process is aided by creating within the designer the ability to see and absorb the total world experience and to interpret fashion as a part of that. If the designer wants to earn a living with the design process, then he or she must be able to communicate what is in his or her head to others and that will require developing some drawing skills. Drawing is the alphabet of design that allows consistent and meaningful communication to flow to potential customers, and pattern maker, etc. However, people do not wear drawings: so knowledge of how a garment relates to the human anatomy is essential. Herein comes the development of skills in pattern making and in apparel construction. In today’s environment, most all of these skills are increasingly computer-driven, thus the student must go to the next level l and learn the programs that assist with drawing, pattern making and construction. While all these skills are being learned, the student also has to acquire some business savvy-ness and understand the business of fashion. Because great designs that don’t market well are seldom economically productive and therefore emerge the ‘starving artist’ problem.”

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!"Dr. Elizabeth Rhodes, Dean of the Kent State School of Fashion Design and Merchandising

To Go to School or Not to Go to School In the ideal world, everybody goes to school and, a few years later, be his or her best after graduation. Unfortunately, we don’t live in one. There are many factors that influence our decision over choosing school or career or family. Weigh both advantages and disadvantages of fashion school carefully before making this life-changing decision.

Advantages of Fashion Schools o Opportunity to learn systematic thinking and trade shortcuts from experienced designers/instructors; o Exposure to established designers who teach part-time at the institution; o Lifetime friendship with fellow students and teachers; o Internship opportunities; o Mentoring opportunities; o Contest opportunities; and o Networking opportunities

Disadvantages of Fashion Schools o Expensive, expect to spend $25,000 or more for tuition; and o Takes two years for associate’s or diploma program and three years for bachelor’s degree

Advantages of Self-Study o According to constructivist educators, experience is the best learning method. Self-studying allows room to make mistakes and learn from them; o Less expensive; and o Learn anywhere and anytime

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Disadvantages of Self-Study o Can be quite confusing when problems need to be solved right away; o Low attrition rate in distance learning programs; and o Feeling of isolation and boredom if self-studying using books and other materials

Top Fashion Schools The following fashion schools are selected based on research of the mostmentioned schools in the media, which should not be taken as endorsements or professional advice. Every school has its own strengths and weaknesses. TIP I’d suggest that you make every effort to ensure that you choose the right one. After all, you are the one solely responsible of your future. USA Fashion Institute of Technology (New York) http://www.fitnyc.suny.edu Parsons School of Design (New York) http://www.parsons.edu Canada LaSalle College (Montreal) http://www.clasalle.qc.ca France Esmod International (Paris) http://www.esmod.com Insitut Francais de la Mode (Paris) http://www.ifm-paris.org Les Ecoles de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne http://www.modeaparis.com/va/ecoles/index.html

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Paris Fashion School http://www.parisfashion.org Italy Polimoda (Florence) http://www.polimoda.com UK Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design (London) http://www.csm.linst.ac.uk Royal College of Art (London) http://www.rca.ac.uk

Asia Bunka Fashion College (Japan) http://www.bunka-fc.ac.jp Moda Gakeun (Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya – Japan) http://www.moga.ac.jp

Fashion School Directories These online directories contain tons of direct links to fashion schools and programs in the United States and around the world. FashionCareerCenter.com Fashion Colleges page http://www.fashioncareercenter.com/fashion_colleges.html FashionDegrees.com http://fashiondegrees.com FashionSchools.com http://www.fashionschools.com

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Alternative and Distance Learning Learning at a distance requires close contact with the instructor via correspondence, which is mostly done by mail. Some schools provide e-mail communications as well. Fashion Tuition Services (UK) http://www.justsew.mistral.co.uk Correspondence courses from the UK. Hemphill Schools Dressmaking and Design Program http://www.hemphillschool.com/english/sew.html Fashion Design Program http://www.hemphillschool.com/english/fashiondesign.htm They offer certificate classes in English and Spanish. Instituto Maurer (Mexico) http://institutomaurer.com Classes are in Spanish. Kilroy College (Ireland) http://www.kilroyscollege.ie Offers certificate program in dressmaking. Regent Academy (UK) http://www.regentacademy.com Offers bachelor’s degree in fashion designing. Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (Australia) http://www.rmit.edu.au/admissions/distance/ Offers Master’s degree and diplomas in Fashion and Textiles by distance learning. Stratford Career Institute http://www.scitraining.com Offers Fashion Merchandising and Design Diploma program. Thomson Education Direct http://www.educationdirect.com/dressmaking/ Offers Dressmaking and Design Career Diploma program.

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AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “I don’t believe that a degree in fashion design is a must to succeed. The most important thing to learn is the technical skills of the trade that can be learned from a technical design school with a certification program. I learned so much at the School for Fashion Design in Boston where the focus was on the skills you need to succeed in the industry, from pattern making and grading to selling skills. The most important skills are business skills that apply in the real industry. They teach you that fashion design is more than being creative; you need to produce real clothes for the real world.” !"Karen and Warren Hipwell, Founders of Karen Warren, Ltd. “A degree is not a ‘must’ but it certainly helps in today’s world. The entry-level positions typically go to people who have portfolios and technical skills. A degree usually means that the person has had the opportunity to acquire these things. There are many avenues for acquiring skills. A degree usually also carries with it a certification to the employer that the person has a liberal arts foundation and has been repeatedly asked to use critical thinking and logical progression skills.” !"Dr. Elizabeth Rhodes, Dean of the Kent State School of Fashion Design and Merchandising

When You’re Ready… Design Contests! If you’re enrolled in a fashion school, you’ll eventually participate in annual design contests for students. Participating in a contest is an invaluable experience to see where you stand at the moment and how others perceive your designs, particular experienced designers (or instructors) and fellow students.

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For professional designers, the most prestigious fashion award in the United States is called Coty Award granted by American Fashion Critics. It is the “Oscar” in fashion industry. Some of renowned Coty Award winners: o o o o o o o o

Alexander Julian; Calvin Klein; Coco Chanel; Donna Karan; Mary McFadden; Oscar de la Renta; Ralph Lauren; and Stan Herman

A committee of fashion critics gives this award to the designer of the best line in each U.S. apparel classification in the particular year. Not all design contests are identical. Some contests focus on wearability, while others on originality and aesthetic elements. Make sure to participate in a contest that suits your specialty or career goal. The panel of jury looks for: o o o o o

Originality; Wearability; Aesthetics; Technical skills; and Appropriateness for the particular season

Take a peek at FashionWindows.com’s “award winners” to familiarize yourself to the nitty-gritty of fashion contests. Once you’re ready, be brave to plunge into it! It might be your big break. FashionWindows.com Award Winners http://www.fashionwindows.com/fashion_review/awards.asp About.com Fashion page (courtesy of Guide Cynthia Nellis) http://fashion.about.com/cs/awardscontests/index.htm

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Career Game Plan Fashion designing is a very satisfying career, particularly because you can express yourself in a way that no other careers allow. In the long run, being a fashion designer brings you more than mere self-satisfaction. Top designers enjoy fame and fortune. With a workable game plan, all these are within reach. Remember to keep yourself motivated and be willing to learn continuously.

How Much You Can Expect to Earn, Pros and Cons Working for others usually pays less than working for yourself; but this may not be true if you have attained a senior position in a top fashion house. Here are some comparisons between the two:

Working for Others Steady income; Entry-level designers earn $20,000 to $35,000; Senior designers earn $80,000 to $200,000; An excellent way to learn from fellow designers and your employer; A great way to network with like-minded people; Need to follow the style guidelines, so highly creative people may find it quite limiting; and o Instead of you, credits go to your employer o o o o o o

Working for Yourself o Income may not be as steady as working for others; o New self-employed designers may not earn sufficiently to cover expenses in the first year of business; o The sky is the limit in terms of earning potential; o Freedom to express your creativity; and o Credits go directly to you and your team

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Gaining Experience OK, I know you’re ready to roll. At this point, I assume you already have actual experiences in designing apparels, because you’ll need to include some of them in your portfolio.

Locating Employers First things first, you need to locate companies that hire fashion designers. You can use several approaches to locate apparel companies, fashion designers and fashion recruiters: o Use local directories, such as The Yellow Pages, local publications and local Chamber of Commerce; or o Use the Internet Some Internet resources to begin with: 24 Seven, Inc. (fashion recruiter) http://www.24sevenonline.com Fashion Career Center http://www.fashioncareercenter.com Fashion.net Employment page http://www.fashion.net/jobs/

AN EXPERT’S ADVICE According to Laura McCann, president of Zweave, Inc. http://www.zweave.com, a company that provides IT management services to the apparel industry, there are several types of fashion employers: o o o o o

Vertical retailers; Manufacturers; Textile companies; Trend services; and Print studios

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She also said that product-driven companies with many product lines tend to hire more designers. ABOUT ZWEAVE.COM: It is a company with a proven record of success in product development, design and marketing of private label apparel for major retailers and manufacturers, such as The Limited, Lerner’s, Victoria Secret Catalogue, K-Mart, Paul Harris, The Avenue, Fubu, Gutter Gear, etc.

Career Choices As a beginning fashion designer, you have several paths to choose. Each has its own pros and cons, so I’d suggest that you carefully assess your strengths and weaknesses. Most entry-level positions are technical positions, which require strong technical skills rather than creative skills. o Junior Designer A junior designer is responsible for cutting the initial flat pattern and assembling the selected fabrics for the approved styles. This position is ideal for a well-rounded beginner with strong skills in pattern making and cutting. o Sketching Assistant A sketching assistant is responsible for making technical sketches based on the approved drawing of the approved styles. This position is ideal for those with strong skills in drawing and pattern making. o Cutting Assistant A cutting assistant helps fashion designers by cutting the fabrics based on the flat patterns and specifications required. This position is ideal for those with strong skills in pattern making and body anatomy. o Manufacturing Assistant A manufacturing assistant helps fashion designers and the manufacturing division by working closely with the team consisting of junior designers, sketching assistants and cutting assistants. HINT Please note that these descriptions are not written in stone. In many companies, the tasks overlap significantly. Make sure that you are

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prepared to perform any duties required by continuously polishing your skills. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “The biggest division in fashion designing career is between being a ‘creative’ designer versus a ‘technical’ designer. The ‘creative’ designer comes up with the entire look, color scheme, and identity of the collection. They typically execute only the initial looks. Whereas the ‘technical’ designer does the first draping and pattern making; they do the engineering part, and often the result is quite different from the original scheme.” !"Ulla Bazant, Founder of Ulla Bazant New York www.ullabazant.com. “I spent many years as a sales rep for high-end accessories manufacturer. As a result, I developed close relationships with established designers and manufacturers. Over the years, they came to depend on me to provide them with important industry information and they were very receptive to my product development suggestions. After 7 years, I was approached by one of them about a design position. I jumped at the opportunity! That was five years ago and I have been actively designing ever since.” !"Aimee Capobianco, Founder of Aimee Capobianco, LLC www.aimeecapobianco.com. “I broke into this career through retail exposure. I worked in a top specialty store to learn what’s hot and what’s not, what works and why, and ultimately what’s missing.” !"Alexander Julian, winner of five Coty Awards, every major design award in men’s wear and the youngest inductee to the Coty Fashion Hall of Fame in 1980.

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Résumé Although résumé is necessary, it is not the most important part in applying for a fashion-designing job. Portfolio is. We will discuss how to compile an attractive portfolio in the following section. There are two ways to arrange your résumé: professionally or chronologically. Professional Résumé This type of résumé focuses on your professional experiences instead of chronological organization, which may or many not place them at the spotlight. Particularly in fresh graduates’ résumés, however, professional résumé may not be appropriate due to the limited experiences. Another proven way is to include your internship and related experiences as the focal point. Don’t be shy to elaborate the job descriptions in order to provide a clear picture of what you’ve done and are capable of doing. Chronological Résumé In this type of résumé, you arrange professional and educational experiences chronologically. This way, a prospective employer can see what you’ve done previously and for how long. TIP While it’s not recommended for those who have already had experiences in the field, a chronological résumé is ideal for fresh graduates and those who have limited experienced.

Portfolio As in other creative professions, portfolio is the most important part of your job application. Many fresh graduates and career-changers are so talented that they can be accepted for positions higher than entry level posts. Therefore, make sure that you provide the best samples of your works include the followings (at minimum):

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o Two original design drawings (by hand or CAD) along with information about color and fabric choices; and o Two flat renditions of the designs (also called “patterns”) If time and resources permit, you may also include actual fabric choices and fabric assembles. TIP How you “package” your portfolio also matters. Make sure to use an attractive professional-looking folder to keep all your samples. As it goes without saying, an employer prefers to hire an organized person.

Interviewing and Presentation Skills The interview stage is used to assess your compatibility with the company. To “score” it, all you need to do is present yourself in a positive light. Showcase your willingness to learn, hardworking attitude and creativity. TIP To impress the interviewers, you may want to include fashion terminologies from your vocabulary bank along with historical facts pertaining to modern fashion industry. If you’re good in memorizing numbers, mention the years in which the milestones occurred. Some employers ask you to draw a design sketch based on their preferences. The purpose of this test is to evaluate your originality, creativity and ability to “create something out of nothing” within short notice. Therefore, make sure that you understand: o Apparel classifications (familiarize with the terminologies); o Trends (colors, fabrics and materials); o Drawing (most likely you’ll need to draw the sketches by hand instead of using CAD software); and o Pattern-making (based on the sketched designs)

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Internship Internship with fashion companies and design studios are rarely advertised; therefore, you need to look for an internship or entry-level job by yourself.

There are many ways to begin the search: o Contact local fashion designers and apparel companies (use directories, refer to “Locating Employers” section above); o Network locally (attend local Chamber of Commerce, church and civil service meetings); o Post “Internship or Position Wanted” ad in local media or Web sites (for very little money or even free); and o Join organizations where creative people mingle (like-minded people usually mix together) TIP Be nice to people you’ve just met. You’ll never know who may go home and pull some strings to recommend you to decision makers and influential people in the industry. New York City offers the best internship and entry-level opportunities. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “Designers do not typically recruit on college campuses like in other majors. So you may want to go to NY City and stay there for a while. If you are not in the city for them to contact, they assume you really aren’t available and since the city has so many talented people, they don’t have to go looking for you.”

!"Dr. Elizabeth Rhodes, Dean of the Kent State School of Fashion Design and Merchandising “I broke into this career by enrolling in a short course to learn the basics, accepting a minimum wage jeweler position, which provided training and did piece work for other jewelry designers, while I developed my own designs and began producing and marketing through art/craft shows, wholesaling and eventually through my Web site www.jennsjewels.com.

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Practice makes perfect. Read, study and practice. Finding an apprentice program is difficult but it is the best way to learn” !"Jennifer Dewey, a fashion designer specializing in precious metals and gemstones. She sells her products via www.JennsJewels.com and works closely with other jewelry designers, such as Thomas Mann and Margo Manning.

Starting Your Own Studio Making the decision to start your own design studio might sound a bit intimidating. You’ll be alone in making things work: from having your business listed in the local Yellow Pages to making sure that the clients pay their bills on time. There are many things to consider: o o o o o o o o

Am I the “entrepreneur” type? How can I assess it? Who can help me if I have questions? Where can I find a business mentor? How can I know which specialty fits my skills and the market? Who are my competitors? Should I have a partner? What business format is suitable for me? How can I manage the business side of the studio?

Is Entrepreneurship for You? This is the first question you must ask if you’re serious in going the path less traveled: opening your own fashion studio. Therefore, you should approach it scientifically, rather than instinctively. One of the best and proven methods to assess one’s inventory of interests is by taking Myers-Briggs Type Indicator (MBTI). Local colleges usually have a career center that provides career counseling to their residents. A trained counselor should be able to administer the assessment test free of charge. For a quick look at how the test looks like:

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What’s Your Personality Type Quick Quiz http://www.personalitytype.com/quiz.html TIP The test merely shows your skills inventory. It should never be used as a prediction of your success or failure in the field. If your motivation is as high as the Himalayan Mountains, nothing can stop you from achieving your peak. Another way to find out whether you’re ready to go solo is by answering these eleven questions honestly. Write down the answers, so you’ll remember. Question One: Do you have the financial resources to cover the first year expenses of your business? Be ready for the unexpected. Most new businesses must start from scratch without any client base. Making sure that you can cover at least the first year of your business, if it hasn’t made any profits yet, will give you the much-needed peace of mind to focus on the new business.

Question Two: Can you take risks (both major and minor)? As an entrepreneur, you will need to make all sorts of decision, both major and minor from early in the morning to the moment you call the day. If you have assistants, you will need to make decisions for them as well, which means that you’re taking responsibilities and risks for everybody.

Question Three: Are you self-motivated and self-disciplined? If you think working by yourself means that you can wake up late and finish early, think again. Most self-employed people work more than ten hours a day, particularly in the first few years of their business. Remember, if you don’t work, you won’t be receiving any income: unlike

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working for others, in which you’ll be paid for your time regardless of the outcome for the day. Question Four: Are you comfortable working directly with clients? Working directly with clients can be quite frustrating because they will tell you like it is. Many clients are nice, so it’s very fulfilling; but not all of them are like that. It is unlike working for others, in which your supervisor is usually very encouraging in order to boost your morale. Question Five: Do you have the trade skills to serve your clients? Be honest. You may feel you are the best designer in the world. How do others think, really? Find some unbiased people (not your family or friends) who will tell you like it is. Are your works good enough for a professional? If not, find out what they think your weaknesses are (but don’t take them personally). Use their opinions to upgrade your skills. Question Six: What’s your specialization? A specialization distinguishes you from your competitors. The ideal specialization should be the one that you’re very comfortable of doing and has a large market to make money. Question Seven: Can you toot your own horn (to market your services)? Unless you’re proud of your work and willing to toot your own horn about being a self-employed designer, the business is unlikely to succeed. You might encounter some people, who are close to you, that may become skeptical when you tell them about your new profession. But always remember the following! REMEMBER

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You deserve to pursue the career of your dreams. If some skeptics say you’re not good enough and can’t make a living out of it, keep your chin up and walk away. You’re proud of what you do and you can prove it by your works.

Question Eight: What are your personal and professional strengths that you can bring to the business? Be honest. Create a list of your personal and professional strengths that you can bring to the fashion design business. You may want to create a few categories, such as personal traits, trade skills, business skills, marketing skills, communication skills, etc. Question Nine: What are your personal and professional weaknesses that you may bring to the business? Be honest, very honest. Create a few categories (see Question Eight) to begin. Question Ten: Can you identify opportunities to grow your business? Look around and ask questions. Be brave to see beyond the surface. Look within and without. Identify anything and everything that may increase your opportunities to grow your business. Some considerations: number of competitors in the area and their specializations, new niche markets, etc. Question Eleven: Can you identify threats that can harm your business? Opportunities may turn around and become threats. Basically there are two types of threats: direct and indirect. Carefully screen an “opportunity” to see if it’s really an opportunity or a threat.

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TIP Use these questions to reflect before making a long-term commitment to running your own fashion studio. Most people fail because they undermine the commitment and needed self-drive to make a business successful, not because they’re not good enough technically.

Resources To begin with, you might want to consult the following Web sites before getting into the details of setting up the business. These sites provide free information that you can use right away. Some even provide free mentoring service to learn from those who have talked the talk and walked the walk –which is invaluable. My Own Business http://www.myownbusiness.org Provides a free online course on starting a business, which comprises of 11 sessions that you can take in any order. Online Small Business Workshop http://www.cbsc.org/osbw/workshop.html A Canadian “Small Business Association” which offers free information on various aspects of starting a business. Small Business Association http://www.sba.gov Numerous resources on how to start and manage your business. Free classes are also offered in various locations. Service Corps of Retired Executives (SCORE) http://www.score.org A network of retired executives who had walked in your shoes. They’d be happy to answer your questions personally. It’s a great place to find a business mentor with whom you can exchange ideas and learn.

Choosing Your Specialty I’d suggest that you carefully choose the specialty of your business. Make sure that your interest has a large enough market. Many designers prefer to work

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with female clients because they are the largest (niche) market. Designing women’s apparels also give you a lot of freedom to be creative. Some TIPS to help you choose the specialty of your business: o Familiarize yourself with the various apparel classifications (refer to the above section); o Assess your interests and skills in designing and producing (which types of apparel can you design and create more at ease); o Find your strengths (sometimes what you like best is not something you can do best); o Listen to what (unbiased) people say about your creations (do they love your evening dresses better than those career suits?); and most importantly o Listen to your heart: how you’d like to be known as? An haute couturier? A handbag designer? Or someone else? What is your identity?

AN EXPERT’S ADVICE: “Abercrombie and Fitch have been extremely successful, especially with the Generation Y Group. They realize that kids (with a lot more discretionary income than most adults) have a need for ‘tribal identity.’ Most successful retailers understand this need for identity and nurture it. Retailing to both Generation X and Baby Boomers have realized that as people age, they have similar needs and wants in clothing and other products. Thus, if a new designer properly segment these wants, he or she will be successful.” !"Laura Portolese Dias, Academic Director of The School of Fashion, The Art Institute of Seattle “Fashion designers do have a choice over which specializations or categories they are designing because they need to be passionate about what they are doing. Being a fashion designer is driven by what you want to design. We do about 80 percent dresses because that was what I always dreamed of since I was a child, so it is natural for me to specialize in them. Your choice depends on where your talents lie.”

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!"Karen and Warren Hipwell, Founders of Karen Warren Ltd.

Market Research Market research may sound a bit intimidating and may make you consider hiring a professional. While it is always recommended to consult an expert, you may be able to perform your own “simple” market research. In order to make wise decisions when working for yourself, choosing a suitable and profitable specialty, and choosing a niche market, here are some TIPS to get you started: o Survey at least ten competitors in your area (your “competitor” is a designer who specializes in the same specialty as you do); and o Survey at least ten retailers in your area that sell products in which you intend to specialize in Now, what to look for? You will need to obtain information on their: o o o o o o o

Location (which part of the city says a lot about the consumers); Captured market (existing clients); Interior design (upscale or mediocre style?); Work quality (high or mediocre quality); Customer service (how did they carry their image?); Price (price tells a lot about the consumers as well); and Others

To find their: o o o o

Strengths (the positive elements of their products, service and market); Weaknesses (the negative elements); Opportunities (what you can do to “beat” them); and Threats (the things you should be aware of)

After you collect the information, use it to analyze your and their positions. Here are some suggestions on performing the analysis: o Recognize patterns; o Recognize similarities; o Recognize irregularities;

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o Recognize distinguished elements; and o Recognize unique features OK, if you have finished with the analysis, now it’s time to relate the findings to your situation. Make thoughtful decisions based on this research for it might be your key to finding your niche and becoming successful. To get a larger picture of the business, repeat the procedures as necessary. TIP Always write down what you find. This way, you can easily refer to them when comparing the findings and make a thoughtful analysis.

Business Legal Structure Your business legal structure will affect how you run the business: its costs, taxes, and liabilities for any occurring debts. I’d suggest that you consult a lawyer and an accountant for their professional opinions. Most likely, in the beginning, you will be working by yourself or with one or two partners. If this is how you’re going to structure your business, a sole proprietor or a partnership (LLP) is probably a good choice. (As if it wasn’t reiterated enough, I suggest consulting a lawyer and an accountant to be sure as every person’s needs are different.) Here are some good Web sites on this topic: Nolo.com Small Business Legal Structure page http://www.nolo.com/lawcenter/ency/index.cfm/catID/19B45DBF-E85F4A3D-950E3E07E32851A7#5DE04E60-45BB-41088D757E247F35B8AB PowerHomeBiz.com Legal Structure of Your Small Business page http://www.powerhomebiz.com/startup/legal.htm TIP No reference can substitute the advice of a professional. Reading materials are intended to help you better understand how one legal structure differs from the others. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

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Partnership? Partnership can be a blessing to speed up the growth of your business if a clear division of labor is properly discussed beforehand. There is an old saying that says (anonymous): The more heads and hands, the more things can be done and overcome. The more heads and hands, there will be more ideas and more disagreements. Ideally, all partners sign a “partnership agreement” to eliminate future confusions that may lead to legal suits. (Again, I’d suggest consulting a lawyer before signing anything.) Some ideas on what to include in a “partnership agreement”: o o o o

How responsibilities are divided among partners; Who will make day-to-day decisions (specify the types of decisions); How profits will be distributed (percentage of earnings); and Other specified roles that each partner will be expected to perform

TIP Choose people with whom you can work well professionally as your partners. They may or may not be your close friends or family members. Since the well being of your business is very important, never choose a partner based on your personal relationship.

AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “If you are not good with the business aspects –as most creative types are not—you have to get a partner to handle it. That’s the biggest bit of advice I can give. Also, you need to be willing to risk everything despite a huge chance of failure. You have to be crazy. You have to be able to deal with

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unbelievable stress, and fear. It’s a scary journey and you have to keep believing it will eventually be worth it.” !"Ulla Bazant, Founder of Ulla Bazant New York www.ullabazant.com.

Setting Up the Studio In setting up a fashion studio, there are three types of workspace that you must carefully design for functionality, comfort and image. o Customer space; o Working space; and o Management space Customer Space The front part of your studio is what your customers will see. If it’s a homebased studio, make sure that it is the first part of the working space that they see as soon as they open the door. A strong image of style and professionalism in the interior design is highly recommended to project a positive vibe. Decorate this space with fashion gimmicks and some stylish mannequins with your new designs. If you intend to sell ready-to-wear apparels, place them here as well. Whenever possible, separate it from the working space. What you need in this room: o o o o o o o o

Several comfortable couches and chairs; A coffee table; Some mannequins (with or without adjustable measurement feature); Portable fitting room or divider; Body-length mirror; Fashion gimmicks as decorators; Telephone; and A sketching table or desk

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TIP If you have the financial resource, it would be recommended to hire a professional interior designer (or decorator) for this room. For a bargain, you may want to try talented interior design students or interns. Remember, your image as a fashion designer partly depends on it. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? If you use pre-owned items, you may expect to spend at least $800 to $1,000. If a professional interior designer is consulted, the price varies greatly. An expenditure of $4,000 is expected. Working Space This is the place where all the dirty works will be conducted. A good workflow design is a must to ensure maximum efficiency; the design comes second. Make sure that you arrange the furniture properly, so your workflow will not be affected. Items you must have in this room (at minimum): o Mannequins with adjustable measurement features; o Sturdy large table (length varies, but make sure that it can accommodate at least one full-length long dress); o Cabinets; o Sewing machine; o Proper lighting; o Measurement tapes; o Two pairs of scissors (at minimum); o Markers (various types); o Needles; o Thread; and o Manila paper TIP The cutting table doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive. You can use a pre-owned dining table to begin with. Extend its length by placing a piece of smooth plywood on top of it, if needed. Make sure that it has a smooth surface (not to scratch the fabric).

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HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? This room doesn’t cost much because you can use existing or used furniture pieces. Anywhere from $200 to $1,000 is needed for the set-up. Management Space The ideal place for a management space is in between “customer space” and “working space,” because that is where you’ll make careful rendition of the design, using either computer (CAD) software or by hand. This is also where you’ll make calculations of fees to charge, earnings and expenses (or even payroll, if you have assistants). In short, this is your office. Like in any other office, it should have at least: o o o o o o

Workstation or office desk; Telephone line; Computer; CAD software; Fax machine; and Stationery

TIP You might consider combining “management space” with either “customer space” or “working space,” if square footage is an issue. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST? The most expensive item in this room is the computer and the CAD software. With the declining price of new computers, we can now get a fairly sophisticated PC desktop or laptop for slightly over $1,000.

Pricing Your Services OK, let’s start with the two possibilities: you can either create custom-made clothes or sell Ready-to-Wear lines under your brand.

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Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. The two major disadvantages that may hinder new designers to start RtW lines are the high cost of mass production, which contributes to higher risk, and the level of difficulty in breaking into it. Unless you’re well covered financially (as companies have 30 to 90-day payment turnaround time) and have received actual orders, I’d suggest not walking this path. Creating custom-made apparels allows you to focus on one piece of clothing at a time. The risk, therefore, is much lower and since you have direct contact with the clients, you can be confident about receiving the payment after each piece is completed. Custom Made Nobody can tell you how much you should charge your clients. It’s completely your prerogative. TIP I’d suggest that as a beginner you carefully research how other designers in your area charge. You can simply call them up saying that you’re a prospective client and are comparing prices of several designers. It’s called “business intelligence.” Another way to set up your rates is by multiplying the total hours needed to complete an order from start to finish with your “estimated hourly” rate. An estimated hourly rate is the price you give for an hour of work. For instance, as a new designer your “estimated hourly rate” is possibly somewhere around $15 to $40 (depending on various factors, including experience, types of client, and location). Take $20 as an example, and then multiply it with the total hours you will be working on a piece of garment. If it takes you 15 hours to complete it, your rate will be: 15 hours X $20 = $300 plus accessories (such as expensive buttons and belts)

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TIP Give some room for alterations and other unexpected activities, such as travel time to purchase supplies pertaining to the particular order.

Sell Ready-to-Wear Apparels Most likely, if you make RtW clothes, you either sell them yourself or have other retailers sell them for you. Whichever route you choose, pricing RtW lines must be done carefully due to the many types of expenses and, possibly, many unexpected costs. What to consider in calculating expenses of a batch of RtW pieces: o Total raw material expenses (fabric, thread, buttons, etc.); o Total electricity and gas used during the period of production; o Total transportation expenses during the period of production (including to and from suppliers of materials); o Total labor expenses (payroll); and o Total administrative expenses (telephone bill, payroll, etc.) Now that you have the grand total, calculate the profit margin mark-up, which is usually anywhere from 10 to 50 percent. Again, this figure is solely your prerogative.

TIP The lower the costs are, the higher your profit can be. Always negotiate for a better price for the raw materials. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “Make sure that you have sufficient funds in the event you get a big order right off the bat.” !"Shawn K. Lively, Founder of Charmed I’m Sure www.charmedimsureboutique.com, a home-based boutique that produces charm bracelets and personalized cigar box purses.

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Roads Less Traveled Most fashion designers, who work for themselves receive orders from individual or corporate customers, create the designs and manufacture them into actual products. Some, who take their business differently, provide the following services: o License their designs to corporations (and earn royalties from them); and o Provide consulting (a.k.a. freelance) services to corporations that need on-going or occasional assistance AHA MOMENT! In the above professions, you don’t need a studio, workshop or your own showroom, which is a huge cost-saver. TIP Regardless of the road you choose, an entrepreneur is an entrepreneur. You are your own boss! Your success is in your own hands, literally. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “I found out that if I worked freelance, I could make five to ten times as much for the same work, which was scary at first but much more challenging and rewarding. Also, I didn’t want the influence of an employer’s design and I am just too independent. I usually sell the rights or partial rights for publication of the design. This allows me to sell the same design more than once to different sources and leaves the door open for licensing opportunities.” !"Kathy Peterson, Fashion Designer, Author and TV/Radio Personality www.kathypeterson.com

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Being Successful There is no definite recipe for success other than an optimal and balanced execution of internal and external resources. Some examples of what I meant by it: o Your personality traits must be in alignment with success traits (you can have all the good traits but if you don’t have the traits that can make you successful, your battle is an uphill one); and o The quality and quantity of your business’ stakeholders must be in alignment as well (how many people know about you is as important as who these people are) To put it briefly, what you have must match with what you can deliver (and be in the future).

Success Traits Three of the most important success traits are: perseverance, entrepreneurial spirit and customer service.

Perseverance Needless to say, this is the ultimate success trait. Remember: o o o o

Failing is a part of life, no biggie; The more you fail, the more you learn how to succeed; It is not important how often you fail, but how you rise from each fall; and Each fall takes you one step closer to success

TIP Five to ten years is not uncommon for a new fashion designer to make her mark. Do you think you can take it? If not, you better reconsider your choice.

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Entrepreneurial Spirit Many extremely talented designers (some with several awards in their résumé) fail because they don’t know how to do business. They are creative and artistic, but don’t really know how to keep their clients satisfied or to manage their business. An entrepreneur is an artist, too. At the same time, he must be creative and firm in running the business, if he intends to earn sufficiently for a good living. So, what does “entrepreneurial spirit” mean and how can one attain its highest level? Entrepreneurial Spirit Defined Having your own business requires more than your present resources. It demands lasting commitment to focus and self motivation. The flame set ablaze in the beginning must be maintained for as long as possible. This is what I call as preserving your “entrepreneurial spirit.” TIP A genuine entrepreneur sees both the positive and negative aspects of every transaction. Overly positive or otherwise will do more harm than good. Successful entrepreneurs are known to be both realistic and pragmatic, who possess a unique touch in converting an idea into realization. Maintaining Your Entrepreneurial Spirit How, then, can you maintain it? Here are some suggestions to begin with: o Adopt an entrepreneurial lifestyle (make it a part of your everyday activities, I’ll explain it later); and o Adopt an entrepreneurial mindset (I’ll explain it later) HINTS What is “entrepreneurial lifestyle”? An entrepreneur always seeks opportunities, always remembers that life is worth risking, and always realizes that failure is a possibility.

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Therefore, her activities (both personal and professional) usually reflect such traits. For instance, everywhere she goes she hands out her business card and chats about what she does. When she makes new friends, she realizes the potential to take it to “professional” and “profit-making” levels in which a “friend” may become a business partner when the time is right. Of course, sincerity in friendship is the key and business shouldn’t be the only reason why you go out and make new friends. What is “entrepreneurial mindset”? Here, having a mindset means having a particular view about yourself that you’re proud of. In this case, it is your “entrepreneur” side. It means being highly analytical and objective when it comes to locating, searching and making profitable decisions for your business. Always remember your financial and/or career goal(s) whenever you find an obstacle. This should keep your confidence intact.

Customer Service Excellent customer service pivots around the needs and wants of the customers’, not yours. You are identical with your business, so whatever you do would enhance or impair your existing professional image. Make sure to implement these three basics of Customer Service in your relationship with your customers: 1. Find out what the needs and wants are and how to fulfill them; 2. Be proactive in improving your services, always looking for ways to satisfy customers; and 3. Prevent and resolve mistakes and misunderstandings TIP Many businesses don’t take their customer service seriously. They think that a good product is sufficient to keep customers coming back. If you’re still unsure of what good customer service constitutes, you might want to consider taking short workshops or seminars on this topic. There are also many books that cover it.

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AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “An understanding of endurance, perseverance and grace is key to achieving success in life and career. These qualities will assist you during the high and low periods. I realized the importance of seeing my accomplishments as a ‘life’s work,’ rather than as a quick shooting star.” !"Elisa Victoria Jimenez, an accomplished fashion designer who is renowned for her unique sense of style based on “hunger” and ability to transform fabric into wearable mythological fashion.

Promoting Your Business This part is, indeed, the most challenging. You can expect to spend a great deal of time and expenses for promotion just to get the words out about your services. Unless you’re committed in promoting your business, it’s very likely that your business will get stuck with limited or diminishing orders. The following methods are proven, meaning that many fashion designers have used them with excellent results. With your entry-level budget, I won’t recommend placing expensive ads in glossy magazines. Those are for established designers. Here are some low-cost promotional strategies you can include in the marketing plan: o o o o o

Get free coverage by local media (it’s called “publicity”); Participate in trade shows (also called “fashion weeks”); Get listed in merchandiser marts; Introduce yourself on Buyers’ Open Calls day; and Appoint a manufacturer representative

Publicity Publicity. What does it mean to you? News conference? Being interviewed by a popular talk show host? Called by Oprah’s producer for their upcoming show? Yes, you’re correct but, still, you have so many questions about publicity:

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o What’s the difference between publicity and advertisement? Aren’t they the same? o How can I get covered by the media? Do I have to pay to be on top shows, like Oprah’s? o When is appropriate to invite the media to a news conference? o What are the most cost-efficient strategies to get media coverage? First of all, let me assure you that a great publicity can generate more orders than you have ever imagined. While ads can help with the branding process of a product, publicities help with the building of reputation. The logic is: if the media is interested in covering it, then it must be something really special. Because you never pay for publicity, the media is some sort of a “guarantor” that you’re worth the coverage. Also, because you never pay them, the scale tips towards them. They have the position to select who they want to cover, for how much space and when. To get coverage, let’s discuss the three important aspects of a successful pitch to the editor. We’ll discuss the four types of pitching strategies later. 1. Content - Focus on people. Don’t focus on your business. Instead, inform and educate the media’s target audience of how you and your business can help them “fashion wise.” Focus on newsworthy benefits, new trends, lesser-known facts, charity events, public services etc. TIP How do I know if a piece of news is newsworthy? Simple, if it gives value to a lot of people. After all, media circulate to make money. 2. Timing - Know when to pitch. Good timing is important. Because the fashion industry might not sound as important as homeland security issues, for instance, the media might probably not select your pitch if there is a terrorism threat in your city. Therefore, before you send out your pitch, do your homework. Is it a good timing? 3. Package - Know how to pitch. The package of your pitch is as important as the content and timing. Good and concise writing is the most important element in a news release.

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TIP The ideal length of a news release is 250 to 300 words. Limit information to one or two paragraph to answer each of the WhatWho-When-Where-Why-and-How questions. Depending on the type of news you’d like to convey to the media, you have the options to choose one of the following four strategies, which can be used concurrently. Make sure that you follow the above three important aspects of successful publicity for better results. 1. Written – News Release. It is the most common way to pitch to the media. You can write a release for almost anything newsworthy. Some ideas to begin with: o o o o o o o o o

New fashion trends; New lines for the upcoming season; New services or products; Awards won (or nominated); Charity events; Anniversary of the studio; Celebrity clients (with their permission, of course); New hires or partners; and Trends seminars

2. Written – Media Kit. It is basically a compilation of coverage clips by other media and historical information about you and your company. It is usually sent out to local and industry media to be kept by the journalists. When they need experts for a story, they can look it up and contact you. 3. Written and Visual – News Conference. It is perfect for TV coverage. Therefore, the event should be TV-genic, such as runway shows or demonstration of new products worn by models. Unless a news conference is very valuable for a story, most media have limited budget and resources to send their journalists for spending at least a couple of hours at your premises. 4. Written and Verbal – Media Advisory. Get visibility by the media. Let them know that you exist, so they can contact you for expert advice. After sending off a media kit, follow-up periodically. Update the media of latest developments, trends and upcoming important events in fashion

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industry. By not limiting your advisory to your own business, journalists will recognize you as an expert in the industry, as a trendsetter. TIP There is no way to ensure media coverage after a news release is distributed. You can expect to increase the chance of coverage by tailoring each release to fit the media’s target audience. This, of course, can be time consuming if you’re distributing to hundreds of media simultaneously. I’d recommend that you write a few releases with different angles: one for local media, one for trade magazine, one for consumer magazine and one for broadcasting media. Since it’s easier to get coverage by the local media, start from there. MORE TIPS Using a third-party news release distribution service doesn’t guarantee coverage. A dedicated and experienced publicist, whose service you can outsource, might be a better choice. The only catch is that it’s usually quite pricey. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “Hire a publicist, get exposure that way. Editorials and blurbs are far more credible than ads.” !"Vivek Nagrani, Founder of The Ovadafut Hosiery Company About Vivek: He started his fashion company from complete scratch with no contacts or training and created a line of contemporary men’s hosiery, which is made in France and Italy. Their products are available at Nordstrom department stores and other upscale men’s stores throughout the United States, Canada and London. “My partner and I tell everyone about what we’re doing; you have to shamelessly promote to everyone. You have to create a buzz, and if you don’t have tons of money for advertising and PR, you have to do it yourself.” !"Ulla Bazant, Founder of Ulla Bazant New York www.ullabazant.com.

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PR Web http://www.prweb.com Free Web-based news release distribution. PR Newswire http://www.prnewswire.com News release distribution service for a fee. You can choose nationwide, regional or industry-specific distribution points. For an additional fee, you can be included in their expert database (when journalists submit their query, you’ll be informed so you can contact them directly). It is, indeed, one of the best resources so far.

Trade Shows and Fashion Weeks Trade shows and fashion weeks are excellent to take your business to the next level. In these events, buyers come from all over the world to find out what’s in and what are worth purchasing. Participating in these annual events put you in an equal position with experienced and larger apparel companies. Here are some online resources to begin with: About.com Fashion – fashion weeks page http://fashion.about.com/cs/fashionweeks/index.htm Covers some of the most prestigious fashion weeks. Apparelnews.net Fashion Trade Show page http://www.apparelnews.net/TradeShows/ Covers tons of fashion weeks worldwide. Make sure to visit this page. First Fair’s Fair (“fashion” search result) http://www.f3.com/newsite/search_result.asp?RIC_SEMP=fashion Covers tons of fashion weeks worldwide, including niche-specific classifications. AN EXPERT’S ADVICE “The New York trade shows are the most important ones. We started our business by going there and putting ourselves to the test.

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Even if you are not selling, it is the easiest way to meet and talk to people in the industry. By attending these events, you will find out very quickly if you are happy in the industry and passionate about it.” !"Karen and Warren Hipwell, Founders of Karen Warren, Ltd. “I pounded the pavement. I faxed every company I could find. I hung out in the garment district buildings and talked to people. I went to MAGIC trade shows in Las Vegas twice a year to meet people. Eventually I was getting referrals and didn’t need to market myself anymore.” !"Ulla Bazant, Founder of Ulla Bazant New York www.ullabazant.com.

Get Listed in Merchandiser Marts A fashion market is a place where wholesale sellers and buyers meet and make transactions. Basically, it works just like any other market. It is similar to fashion week in many ways except for it is permanent. (Note: fashion weeks and trade shows are annual events.) California Fashion Market http://www.californiamarketcenter.com Dallas Fashion Market Center http://www.dallasmarketcenter.com Fashion Market of San Francisco http://www.fashionsanfrancisco.com

Buyer’s Open Calls Most large department store chains and specialty stores have the so-called “Buyers’ Open Calls” day. On this day, which is usually once a month, buyers open their doors to manufacturers and their representative, introduce themselves and propose their products for selling them. They usually bring the following items for consideration:

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o Actual samples of each product; and o Official proposal (covering proposed delivery terms, pricing, and manufacturing conditions) Should a buyer show interest in the manufacturer’s products, he or she usually asks for a few days time to discuss their interest with the decision makers (fashion directors and their team). This is a good sign! TIP Many buyers consider “manufacturing conditions” seriously. Questions regarding where the products are manufactured physically (country of origin) and who work in the factories (are there under-age people?) are often asked. Make sure to answer them honestly as they may visit your plant for assurance. MORE TIPS Where can you find information about Open Calls day? Call up the corporate number of the stores you’re interested in (make sure that they carry lines of the classifications and themes that you specialize in). Ask for information on Open Calls day. It might not be advertised, but trust me, most large department stores have it.

Manufacturer Representatives Consider hiring a representative (or representatives) to help with the marketing aspect, so you can focus on what you do best: designing and manufacturing high quality products. A manufacturer representative may represent you in the negotiation phase with buyers. You pay for her services after a sale is closed, so this system pays by itself. In many cases, she also helps you in finding buyers by: o Setting up her own showroom to showcase manufacturers’ products; o Attending trade shows around the country (and around the world, if the products are available for export); and o Promoting manufacturers’ products through various professional publicity and marketing efforts

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For her services, a percentage of the transaction is provided for each successful closed deal. The figure depends on various factors, such as: o Quantity; and o Total amount I’d suggest that you carefully screen potential manufacturers for their experiences and quality of services. Some questions to ask in the selection process: How long have you been in this business? What’s your last year’s volume? Where have you successfully placed your clients’ products? Who are your existing clients? Can I contact several of them as references? o What are your plans in promoting our products? Why did you decide to do so? o How much do you charge? (Compare this information with other representatives.) o Do you represent clients for export as well? o o o o

TIP A representative’s experience and reputation are very important. Make sure to check these aspects by carefully screening them and contacting references. If you belong to professional organizations, ask around. Sometimes a positive word-of-mouth is what you need to be convinced of your hiring decision.

Outsourcing the Manufacturing If you’re not comfortable in manufacturing your own designs, consider outsourcing. After carefully selecting the most appropriate outsourcer, you will need to furnish them with the pattern and spec sheet of each style manufactured. Here are some aspects to consider during the selection process: o Price per piece; o Freight and handling fees (if any);

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o o o o

Payment terms; Quality (make sure to give a test order); Names and locations of existing clients; and Testimonials and references from satisfied clients

TIP Many apparel companies outsource to overseas companies. If you decide to do so, you will need to be familiar with the importing guidelines and the exporting regulations of the country of origin. The United States imposes trade quota over textile and apparel products; therefore, it is best to consult a professional export-import expert prior to embarking on outsourcing. WHERE CAN I FIND MANUFACTURERS THAT ACCEPT OUTSOURCING JOBS? OK, there are several ways to do so. If you’re considering local companies, you might want to consult the trade organizations pertaining to the apparel classifications that you design (refer to the following section). They have a list of manufacturers, from which you can expect to locate those that accept outsourcing jobs. If you are considering overseas manufacturers (mostly for cost reduction purposes), contact the corresponding embassies or consulates for leads. You may want to expect receiving a list of local trade organizations that will direct you to the manufacturers in that specific region.

Joining Professional and Trade Organizations Joining professional and trade organizations is invaluable for your career. It provides growth, networking and learning opportunities that you won’t find elsewhere. Before joining an organization, make sure that you have studied and understood their: o Mission statement; o History (when and how it was established, any historical events that triggered the founders to establish, etc.)

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o o o o o o o

Benefits for members; Membership requirements; Membership directory (list of existing members); Professional or trade activities (workshops, seminars, expos, etc.); Periodical networking activities (monthly meetings, cocktail parties, etc.); Trend creation activities; and Social and legislative activisms to help the industry

Organizations for Small Businesses I’d recommend that you become an active member of your regional chamber of commerce. You’ll be updated of latest regulations pertaining to your business and businesses in general as well as have the opportunity to network with the members who may have become your future business partners. U.S. Chamber of Commerce: Member Directory Search Page http://www.uschamber.com/chambers/chamber_directory.asp Benefits of Chamber Member Page http://www.uschamber.com/chambers/membership/benefits.htm

Professional Organizations and Trade Associations The following organizations are professional organizations and trade associations that influence the legislative and trade regulations as well as the on-going learning, promoting and networking opportunities. American Apparel and Footwear Association (American Apparel Manufacturers Association merged with Footwear Industries of America in 2000) http://www.americanapparel.org 1601 N. Kent Street Suite 1200 Arlington, VA 22209 1-800-520-2262 1-703-522-6741 fax The Council of Fashion Designers of America http://www.cfda.com

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1412 Broadway New York, NY 10018 1-212-302-1821 1-212-768-0515 fax The Fashion Group International http://www.fgi.org 597 Fifth Avenue, 8th Floor New York, NY 10017 1-212-593-1715 1-212-593-1925 fax Garment Industry Development Corporation http://www.gidc.org 275 7th Ave, 9th Floor New York, NY 10001 1-212-366-6160 1-212-366-6162 fax International Association of Clothing Designers and Executives http://www.iacde.com/english/index.htm 34 Thorton Ferry Road #1 Amherst, NH 03031 1-603-672-4065 1-603-672-4064 fax International Directory of Design: Apparel and Fashion Organizations in the USA http://www.penrose-press.com/IDD/org/unitedstatesfash.html A long list of apparel and fashion organizations in the United States and a few other countries.

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Keeping Up with the Trends and Industry News Successful professionals and businesspeople keep themselves updated with the latest news and trends. Keeping yourself abreast with what’s happening and who’s who in the industry is a favor you need to give yourself in order to stay afloat and get noticed.

International Fashion Weeks Fashion week is when both manufacturers or designers and buyers come together in trade shows or expositions. Here new trends can be easily spotted, negotiations started and deals closed. New fashion designers will find such events highly inspiring. Whenever you’re ready to market your own lines, contact the coordinator to register as an exhibitor. Hong Kong Fashion Week http://www.hkfashionweekss.com/indexms.htm Intermoda (Mexico) Fashion Week http://www.intermoda.com.mx London Fashion Week http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Milan Fashion Week http://www.cameramoda/eng/default.htm Mode a Paris http://www.modeaparis.com/va/index.html The New Mart (Los Angeles) http://www.newmart.net New York Mercedes Benz Fashion Week http://www.mercedesbenzfashionweek.com

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The Super Show (sportswear, Las Vegas) http://www.supershow.com

Industry News and Trends The following Web sites cover the various aspects of the industry, including news, market and business trends. Most of them provide complimentary services, while some require subscription to access the information. TIP Women’s magazines are good sources to see what the trends are. One thing you must remember is that they are intended for customers, not designers. As a member of the industry, you need information pertaining to professionals. Apparel News http://www.apparelnews.net FashionWindow.com http://www.fashionwindow.com Ganoksin.com (Fashion Jewelers’ Community) http://www.ganoksin.com Just Style http://www.just-style.com The Look Online http://www.lookonline.com Lucire, The Global Fashion Magazine http://www.lucire.com Stores Magazine http://www.stores.org Visionaire (the ultimate fashion trends publications) http://www.visionaireworld.com

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Women’s Wear Daily http://www.wwd.com

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Success Profiles Ulla Bazant Fashion Designer (Women’s), Entrepreneur Ulla Bazant New York New York, NY www.ullabazant.com Photo by www.UllaBazant.com

What She Does: Ulla calls herself a fashion designer and an entrepreneur. She has been a designer for her entire career, having started in textile design and then launching a successful freelance studio in 1999 called Shack of Style, Inc. In early 2001, she embarked on starting her Ulla Bazant of New York, which was her life-long goal. Ulla was born in Warsaw. She grew up in Warsaw, North Africa and Germany. She moved to the United States with her family as a teenager. Now she lives in Manhattan.

Where She Studied: Ulla is a cum laude graduate of the world renowned New York Fashion Institute of Technology, where she won prestigious design awards. She holds degrees in fashion design with specialization in art and intimate apparel, and in fabric styling.

Her Achievements: She won many prestigious design awards from NY Fashion Institute of Technology.

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How She Broke Into the Field: In Ulla’s own words… “Wanting to be a fashion designer, I went to FIT to learn more about this profession. After graduation, it was difficult to get a job, which took me several months. My first job was as a textile designer. Such jobs don’t pay much, are stressful and didn’t attract me much. I got fired, and then I started my own textile design studio by pounding the streets in the Garment district. People would give me a trial project to do for one of two reasons: they happened to be in a bind and needed something overnight and were desperate enough to try someone new, or they were trying to go out with me. When I could actually do the work –meaning that they could sell my designs—they were stunned. I’m not just guessing that: that is what they told me. So that’s how I built my first client base. From there, I expanded into being a designer for several companies. I hired assistant designers for a while, but eventually, I realized that it was time to start my own line. My boyfriend quit his business; we borrowed a bunch of money from the bank, and got to work. A year later, we were about to open a store with our own Spring 2003 collection.”

Survival Tips: “Think long and hard about going into this industry. It’s a horrible industry and I can’t recommend it to anyone. In the beginning, it’s low paying, unethical and nasty. But if you have an insatiable desire like I did, you’d better have a thick skin.”

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Aimee Capobianco Fashion Designer (Vintage Handbags and Accessories) Manufacturer Aimee Capobianco, LLC Burlingame, California www.aimeecapobianco.com

Photo courtesy of Aimee Capobianco

What She Does:

Aimee designs and manufactures vintage handbags and accessories. Her designs incorporate vintage detailed applications, such as glass/crystal beading, embroidery, painting, needlepoint and long stitching. They are made of high quality materials, such as raw silk, satin, silk velvet and goat suede skins.

Where She Studied: Aimee spent many years as a sales representative for high-end manufacturer of accessories. As a result, she developed close relationships with established designers and manufacturers. Over the years, they came to depend on her to provide them with important industry information. They were very receptive to her product development suggestions. After seven years, Aimee was approached by one of her designer clients about a design position. She immediately jumped at the opportunity. That was five years ago and she has been actively designing ever since.

How She Broke Into the Field: Aimee moved to Northern California where the opportunities to design for a firm, similar to the one she had left in LA, were very limited. After doing several freelance projects, she decided to go out on her own. She started her own business with the support of a factory in India that she had developed a relationship with during her days in Los Angeles.

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Survival Tips: “In order for a person to have a successful career as a designer, I think it is important to first be exposed to all aspects of the business. It helps to have an understanding of the manufacturing process and sales techniques to create a viable product.”

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Jennifer Dewey Fashion Designer (Jewelry, Accessories) New Orleans, Louisiana www.JennsJewels.com

Photo by www.JennsJewels.com

What She Does:

Jennifer is a jewelry designer who works for herself and for other designers, such as Thomas Mann and Margo Manning. She has been in the business for approximately six years.

Where She Studied: She learned this trade through self-study and apprenticeship, with occasional training sessions in specific areas. She is a bachelor’s degree holder --majoring in Communications with minor in Psychology from Ripon College, where she also attended art courses. Jennifer was exposed to arts as a part of the many disciplines in Liberal Arts education. Her visits to China, Japan, parts of Europe and Brazil also influenced her learning and artistic appreciation. She hopes to continue traveling, which she believes helps her better appreciate others’ similarities and differences; thereby fostering a more harmonious and peaceful world.

How She Broke Into the Field: “I broke into this career by enrolling in a short course to learn the basics, accepting a minimum wage bench jeweler position which provided training and doing piece works for other jewelry designers, while I developed my own designs and began producing and marketing through art/craft shows, wholesale and Web site.”

Survival Tips:

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“Discipline is essential. I’m still struggling with this, as it is necessary to be both right and left-brained as an entrepreneur in this field. Creativity plus business sense and the ability to market your products are essential. It is often quite difficult for artisans to grasp the business side of things and this is why many cannot make a career out of their art. What you cannot do… hire someone to do it!”

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Karen and Warren Hipwell Fashion Designer (Women’s) Work-at-Home Entrepreneur Karen Warren, Ltd Marshfield, Massachusetts

Their Stories:

Photo courtesy of Karen and Warren Hipwell

Boston Business Journal http://boston.bizjournals.com/boston/stories/2003/02/10/smallb1.html Senior Citizens http://www.seniorcitizensmagazine.com/03_12december/Page_17.htm

What They Do: Karen Warren, Ltd, is a fashion design form specializes in contemporary designer clothing, including women’s dresses, skirts, blouses, pants and accessories. The founders –Karen and Warren Hipwell-- work out of their home in Marsfield, MA, where they live and work with their twins, Liam and Olivia. Now their line is carried nationally by 110 boutiques.

Where They Studied: Karen Hipwell has been designing clothing since she was in third grade. She later studied fashion and design at the School of Fashion Design on Boston’s Newbury Street, where her talents were highly recognized. Prior to becoming Karen’s husband, Warren Hipwell was her partner in the start-up phase. He took Karen’s first line of clothing to the fashion shows in New York City in 1989 where he received nearly $35,000 in orders. He was a former Emerson College student.

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Their Achievements: Karen won School of Fashion Design’s “Outstanding Alumni” award.

How They Broke Into the Field: Even prior to graduation from fashion school, Karen was hired as an assistant clothing designer for a Massachusetts company that sold moderately sportswear fashion. When the company was sold to Leslie Fay, she left to pursue her career as an independent designer. Warren started out in a communications career but found himself in a new role as the company’s representative when he took his fiancee’s designs to New York trade shows.

Survival Tips: “The quickest way to fail as a fashion designer is to get into a rut and not listen to the customer. It’s hard to hear criticism, but if you don’t listen to the customers and retailers then you’re not providing good customer service and you will fail. Many people become self-absorbed as designers and lose touch with what people want.”

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Elisa Victoria Jimenez Fashion Designer (Women’s) Multidisciplinary Artist New York, New York

Her Stories:

Photo courtesy of Elisa Jimenez Dress by Elisa worn by model

Papermag.com http://www.papermag.com/stylin/fashion/shows/03spring/new_york/elisa_jimene z/elisa_jimenez.html Microsoft.com http://www.microsoft.com/presspass/features/2003/Feb03/02-13Butterfly.asp

What She Does: Elisa is known as a successful fashion designer based in New York City. With her background as an interdisciplinary artist, her designs are pulled from other disciplines and genres in order to manifest a cohesive concept and philosophy. Her designs are renowned for their “radical” feel, in which mythical qualities are transformed into wearable artistic pieces.

How She Broke Into the Field: She accidentally “stumbled” into this field but she had always been raised with the idea that who she was and what she did was going to depend on the way she was going to make money for herself.

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Survival Tips: “My biggest advice for anyone attempting to live more is to listen to your own vision, stay true to the best parts of yourself while being open to allow yourself to change.”

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Alexander Julian Fashion Designer (Men’s) Five Times Coty Award Winner Youngest Inductee to the Coty Fashion Hall of Fame in 1980 The First American Clothing Designer to Create Exclusive Fabrics Colours by Alexander Julian Chapel Hill, North Carolina www.julianstyle.com

What He Does: Alexander Julian is a successful and one of the most talented American fashion and textile designers. He also designs a full range of home products, such as paint, carpets, rugs and lamps to award-winning furniture. Photo by www.JulianStyle.com

Where He Studied: By the age of 16, Alexander had tried his hands on clothing design at his parents’ clothing store Julian’s College Shop, which served as his virtual classroom. By 19, he opened his own boutique “Alexander’s Ambition” in Chapel Hill. He studied at University of North Carolina.

His Achievements: At the age of 29, he won his first of five Coty Awards for Outstanding Men’s wear in 1977. In 1980, he became the youngest inductee to the Coty Fashion Hall of Fame. He has won every major design award in men’s wear, including nine times on the International Best Dressed List and a special Coty Award for Textile Design. His movie and TV credits are as long as his list of achievements. Among them are Paul Newman, Cosby, Michael J. Fox, Jerry Seinfeld and Jason Alexander.

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He also designed the uniform for the basketball team of his alma mater –the University of North Carolina. He is the first fashion designer to be rewarded by the American Society of Furniture Designers.

How He Broke Into the Field: His exposure to retail since an early age gave him the learning opportunities to see what’s hot and what’s not, what works and why, and ultimately what’s missing.

Survival Tips: “Working for yourself makes you ultimately responsible, the buck stops here. You market through networking, and as far as finding clients, you have to pursue them relentlessly.”

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Shawn K. Lively Fashion Designer (Women’s Handbags) Work-at-Home Entrepreneur Charmed I’m Sure Boutique Austin, Texas www.charmedimsureboutique.com Photo courtesy of Shawn K. Lively From left to right: Karen Baumli, Shawn K. Lively and her designs

What She Does: Shawn designs personalized cigar box purses at home so she can be at home with her children.

Where She Studied: She has a degree from California State University at Northridge but she learned more about arts and her artistic side when she renovated and ran an art gallery from 1992 to 1994.

Her Achievements: Being able to be a “stay-at-home mom” who operates a thriving business at the same time is a true passion-come-true.

How She Broke Into the Field: Shawn began creating charmed bracelets and cigar box purses as a hobby. So when many retailers approached her, she had to start a business.

Survival Tips: “I personally keep up on current fashion trends and try out different styles on all of my friends to find out what they love and what they hate. I gear my style

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towards 30 to 40-year old women. Just basically knowing what is out there and updating as you go along makes all the difference. Personally speaking you need a lot of drive and determination to succeed in this business.”

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Vivek Nagrani Fashion Designer (Men’s Hosiery) The Ovadafut Hosiery Co. New York, New York www.ovadafut.com

What He Does: Model Sophia Hinnant in Redford Photo by www.Ovadafut.com

Vivek designs men’s hosiery (socks), which is made in France and Italy and available in upscale men’s stores in the United States, Canada, London, France, Italy and Japan.

His Achievements: He started from complete scratch with no contacts or training in fashion. Now his products can be found in the finest upscale stores. In the United States, his line is available at Nordstrom department stores.

How He Broke Into the Field: He created his first line and called the stores he liked to shop at. He started with smaller boutiques, which are more open to doing new businesses. He also used direct mail because it’s inexpensive and hired a publicist to get exposure through blurbs, which are more credible than ads.

Survival Tips: “Give your customers what you say and they will appreciate it. False expectations lead to big disappointments.”

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Kathy Peterson Fashion Designer Craft Designer Book Author TV Show Host Columnist Consultant Kathy Peterson Productions, Inc. Tequesta, Florida www.KathyPeterson.com Photo by www.KathyPeterson.com

What She Does: She designs fashion and crafts for books, publications, TV and manufacturers. She sells rights or partial rights for publication of the design. This allows her to sell the same design more than once to different sources and leaves the door open for licensing opportunities.

Where She Studied: She is self-taught in design and sewing. She began manufacturing vintage clothing in 1977 as a hobby. She graduated in 1980 with a Bachelor’s degree in Recording Industry Management.

Her Achievements: Kathy was nominated “Craft Designer of the Year” in 1998. Her byline has appeared in 16+ publications and four books (see below). All books are available via her Web site.

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How She Broke Into the Field: “I was lucky to hook up with wire and fabric manufacturers that design fashion, accessories and home décor designs for publication and advertising. I was approached by two book publishers who liked my works as well as a number of magazine editors and TV producers.”

Survival Tips: Three important tips for new designers: First, be patient, Second, don’t wait but look for opportunities and Third, be a trendsetter not a follower.

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Other Fashion Careers

StyleCareer.com publishes the following eGuides to help you breaking into and succeeding as a: o o o o o o o o o o

Fashion Designer Fashion Writer Fashion Photographer Image Consultant Interior Decorator Model Modeling Agency Spokesmodel Stylist Talent Scout

All titles are available in 2003 via: StyleCareer.com http://www.stylecareer.com

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