Fabric Science

J. J. Pizzuto’s

FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT Tenth Edition

allen c. cohen ingrid johnson

FABRIC SCIENCE

Swatch Kit

J. J. P i z z u t o’s

FABRIC SCIENCE tenth edition

Swatch Kit Allen C. Cohen

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.”

FA I R C H I L D B O O K S New York

Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia Assistant Art Director: Sarah Silberg Production Director: Ginger Hillman Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta Copyeditor: Jeff Klingman Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: ISBN: 978-1-60901-358-5 GST R 133004424 Printed in the United States of America MC01, MC06

CONTENTS

Assignment 7 / Yarns: To Examine Different Yarns of the Same Fiber Content

Key to Fabric Swatches How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit Assignments Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Using the Pick Glass

Assignment 8 / Yarns: To Determine Yarn Structure Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics: To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure

What’s in a Fabric Name? Assignments Assignment 1 / Fibers: To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use

Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics: To Create Basic Weaves Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics: To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave

Assignment 2 / Fibers: To Show Variety of Types of Fabrics Made of the Same Fiber Assignment 3 / Fibers: To Evaluate Textile Absorbency

Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics: To Determine “V” and “W” Shape Cut Pile Interlacings

Assignment 4 / Fibers: To Identify Fibers by Solubility

Assignment 13 / Woven Fabrics: To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper

Assignment 5 / Fibers: To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content

Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics: To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure

Assignment 6 / Yarns: To Evaluate Yarns

Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics: To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics

A

v

F

Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics: To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration

Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Compare Covering Power

Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics: To Determine Stage of Dyeing and Possible Dye Class Used

Assignment 26 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven Fabric Design

Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics: To Evaluate Printed Design

Assignment 27 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Analyze a Fabric

Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Railroading of Upholstery Fabrics

Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics for a Specific End Product

Assignment 20 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors

Assignment 29 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics

Assignment 21 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Fabrics for Down-filled Cushions, Quilts, or Pillows

Assignment 30 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance

Assignment 22 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains and Draperies

Assignment 31 / Fabric Performance Testing: To Determine Colorfastness Properties of Fabrics

Assignment 23 / Textiles for Interiors: To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors

Assignment 32 / Textile Laws: To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy Federal Laws

Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics: To Produce Fabric Patterns

Fabric Sample Sheets

C O N T E N T S

A

vi

F

HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT

Before removing rubberbands from fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets” (see page viii).

T

he Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches and assignments will enhance your understanding of the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Tenth Edition, text. Most of the fabrics contained in the Fabric Science Swatch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace. They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing manufacturers and have eventually appeared in stores as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative pillows). The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch Set represent examples of every major type of fiber, yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye, print, and finishing applications. Examples are also provided for more recent materials such as microdenier fiber, lyocell fiber, and special purpose “high-tech” fabric such as Staybright™ bleach-resistant fabric. In addition, a fabric made of eco-friendly fibers, such as organic cotton and reprocessed wool, have been included. The swatches have not been “pinked,” but left with straight edges to make it easier to remove yarns (this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangular form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric

length and width directions. (The long swatch direction is the fabric length.) The swatches have been organized in approximately the order in which they will be studied: fibers, yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc. The Fabric Science Swatch Kit also contains a Key to identify the swatches by number and fabric name; description and fiber content; Assignments; and Fabric Sample Sheets for mounting swatches.

Assignments The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful completion of the assignments will help you develop skills of observations, analysis, and report writing. The assignments are straightforward and basic. Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Sufficient information is provided for work to be independent of a classroom environment. For assignments that are to be completed in the classroom, read the assignment before coming to class. Use your textbook to review the related material prior to the class meeting.

A

vii

F

Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets

5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the swatches.

Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; double-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in numerical order in the proper positions for mounting. Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets. The fabric number, name, and color listed in the Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and foolproof, follow these instructions:

6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content on the Fabric Sample Sheet. As a helpful example of how the mounting boards are used, see Swatch #1 Denim below. Swatch Number: 1 Fabric Name: Denim Fiber Content: Cotton Yarn Type: Spun Weave/Knit Type: 2/1 45° Twill Weave Yarns/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48 Method of Coloration: Yarn dyed Filling: Not dyed Finish: Calendered End Use: Jeans Notes: Not suitable for “skinny” jeans

1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets until you actually begin mounting the swatches. 2. The swatches are packaged in two separate packets. One packet labeled “A” contains swatches 1–63; the second packet, labeled “B,” 64–114; and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue. Packet One “A”: Fibers (1–15) Yarns (16–27) Woven Fabrics (28–48) Knitted Fabrics (49–63)

Using the Pick Glass The pick glass has become universal in its applications in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers, technicians, students, and teachers have found it to be an important tool for a better and clearer examination of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and cloth defects can be more easily identified through its proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yarns per inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses, and a measured opening in the base opposite the lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the measuring lines on the base are visible when looking through the lenses. Fabrics to be examined should be placed on a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be welllighted. The open pick glass is placed on top of the cloth and viewed through the lens section. The user’s head and not the pick glass should be raised or lowered for better focus.

Packet Two “B”: Knitted Fabrics (64–69) Other Types of Fabrics (70–75) Dyed Fabrics (76–80) Printed Fabrics (81–88) Textile Finishes (89–98) Special Fabrics (99–114) 3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the packet labeled “A”. Keep the packet upright. Mount each swatch as you see it—face up and longer sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over; some fabrics have a face and back.) 4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using masking tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch, with the two ends of the tape pointing downward, about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The tape will make it easier to remove swatches for assignments and experiments, and to return them to the Fabric Sample Sheets.

H O W

T O

U S E

T H E

F A B R I C

A

viii

S C I E N C E

F

S W A T C H

K I T

WHAT’S IN A FABRIC NAME?

T

he Fabric Science Swatch Kit contains many classic woven and knit fabrics. Most fabric names are rooted in historic origin and were originally produced only from natural fibers. However, as manufactured fibers were developed (most within the 20th century), many of these original fabrics began to be made from these new fibers. For example, taffeta was originally made from 100% silk. Now taffeta is made from rayon, acetate, nylon, or polyester. All taffeta fabrics will have similar appearances, but some properties will be different because of the different fiber content (e.g., strength). Fabric #26 in this swatch packet is an example of taffeta made from nylon while fabric #94 is made of acetate. Another example of a classic fabric originally made only from silk is fabric #15, bridal satin. This fabric appears similar to silk satin, but is made from acetate. Many fabrics do not have historic names. Some of these have names which describe the general end use. Fabric #21, bathing-suit fabric, and fabric #111, luggage fabric, are two such examples. Other fabrics have properties that are unique and somewhat different from any historic name fabric, or enduse fabric. These are described by their special properties. Fabrics #68, sports jersey, fabric #98, accordion pleat, and fabric #104, rip stop, are such examples. The woven fabric moiré faille, #31, is an example of a classic fabric whose name also includes a special fabric property (i.e., moiré design). Look at the various names of the fabrics in the “Key to Fabric Swatches” to distinguish the classic name from the nonclassic ones.

A

ix

F

J. J. P i z z u t o’s

FABRIC SCIENCE tenth edition

Key to Fabric Swatches Allen C. Cohen

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from fabric swatches, refer to “Mounting the Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.”

© 2012 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.

FIBERS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

1

Denim (blue)

Cotton

Cotton

2

Broken twill (black & grey)

Wool (woolen)

Wool

3

Tropical worsted (glen plaid)

Wool (worsted)

Wool

4

Sueded twill (black)

Cashmere

Cashmere/polyester (blend)

5

3D-design

Mohair

Mohair/wool (blend)

6

Heather effect (purple)

Reprocessed wool

Wool and other fibers

7

Taffeta (plaid)

Cultivated silk

Silk

8

Pongee (ivory)

Duoppioni silk

Silk

9

Pin check

Tussah silk

Silk

10

Linen (off-white)

Flax

Flax

11

Microfiber fabric (army green)

Polyester (microfilament)

Polyester

12

Hampton twill (black)

Lyocell

Lyocell

13

Nainsook (aqua)

Ramie

Ramie

14

Lining (drab olive)

Rayon

Bemberg® rayon

15

Bridal satin (bright blue)

Acetate

Acetate

25

Lamé

Metallic

26

Tissue taffeta

Nylon

34

Pointed twill

Spandex

49

Jersey knit

Acrylic

50

Baby jersey

Organic cotton

64

High pile knit

Modacrylic

Also see:

__ __ __ __ __ __

YARNS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

16

Chambray (dk. blue)

Carded yarn

Cotton

17

Broadcloth (taupe grey)

Combed yarn

Cotton

18

Linen look (boulder grey)

Novelty yarn (thick and thin)

Polyester/rayon (blend)

19

Spider knit (white)

Textured filament

Polyester

20

Novelty suiting

Novelty yarns (bouclé, tufts, plied)

__

21

Bathing suit fabric (hot pink)

4 way stretch

Nylon and spandex

22

Chiffon (pale pink)

High twist filament yarn

Polyester

23

Georgette (salmon)

Crepe twist yarn

Polyester

24

Crystal organza (white)

Monofilament yarn

Nylon

25

Lamé (gold)

Metallic yarn

Metallic and nylon (mixture)

26

Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant)

Filament yarn

Nylon

27

Shaggy knit (ice blue)

Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and nylon

31

Faille

Fabric mixture

35

Sateen

Corespun

65

Tricot jersey

15d.

66

Tricot jersey

40d.

78

Lightweight poplin

Blended yarn

111

Luggage fabric

High denier yarn

113

Buckram

Filling: monofilament

Also see:

__ __ __ __ __ __ __

WOVEN FABRICS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

28

Gauze (greige)

Yarn distortion

Cotton

29

Lawn (white)

Plain weave (fine)

Cotton

30

Batiste (print)

Plain weave (printed)

Cotton

31

Faille (ice green)

Plain weave (ribbed)

Warp: acetate Filling: cotton

32

Cord (mineral green)

Cord effect

Cotton

33

Chino (beige)

Twill weave

Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

34

Pointed twill (orange crush)

Broken twill weave

Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

35

Sateen (pebble)

Satin weave

Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

36

Antique satin (dusty green)

Satin weave (novelty yarn)

Warp: acetate Filling: rayon

37

Striped lining

Multiple effect

Acetate

38

Piqué (apple green)

Piqué weave

Cotton

39

Terrycloth (beige)

Warp pile weave (uncut)

Cotton

40

Corduroy (navy)

Filling pile weave (cut)

Cotton

41

Velveteen (lagoon)

Filling pile weave (cut)

Cotton

42

Velvet (patterned)

Warp pile weave (cut)

Rayon

43

Upholstery velvet (brown)

Warp pile weave (cut)

Back: cotton Pile: wool/rayon (blend)

44

Sculpted upholstery velvet (camel)

Warp pile weave (cut)

__

45

Evening wear dobby (black)

Dobby weave

Acetate

46

Tie fabric

Dobby weave (long floats)

Polyester

47

Natté damask (white)

Jacquard weave

Cotton

48

Upholstery brocade (sage)

Jacquard weave

Warp: polyester Filling: cotton/rayon (blend)

5

3D-design

Long floats

9

Pin check

Basket weave

110

Designer jacquard

Jacquard

Also see:

__ __ __

KNITTED FABRICS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

49

Jersey knit (black)

Jersey (coarse)

Acrylic

50

Baby jersey (greige)

Jersey (fine)

Cotton (organic, combed yarns)

51

Rib knit (steel grey)

Rib knit (1x1)

Cotton

52

Rib knit (black)

Rib knit (2x2)

Cotton and cotton and spandex (corespun)

53

Interlock knit (striped)

Ribbed

Cotton and polyester (mixture)

54

Interlock knit (cobalt)

Interlock

Polyester

55

French terry (blue)

Lay in yarn

Ground: cotton Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend)

56

Knit window pane check

Knit jacquard

Acrylic

57

Slinky (maroon)

Supple drape

Acetate, nylon, and spandex

58

Knit terry (orange)

Loop-knit (uncut)

Pile: cotton Ground: cotton and polyester

59

Knit velour (baby blue)

Loop-knit (cut)

Pile: cotton Ground: cotton and polyester

60

Argyle

Argyle pattern

White: cotton Blue: polyester

61

Thermal knit type (white)

Patterning with tuck stitches

Polyester and cotton (mixture)

62

Puckered jersey (celery)

Crinkle effect

63

Fancy jersey

Lay in yarns for surface effect

Polyester/spandex (corespun) __

64

High pile knit (fake fur)

High pile knit

Modacrylic

65

Tricot jersey (white)

Tricot (15d.)

Nylon

66

Tricot jersey (black)

Tricot (40d.)

Nylon

67

Satin tricot (metallic print)

Satin tricot

Polyester

68

Sports jersey (silver)

Tricot mesh

Nylon

69

Tulle (red)

Raschel (sheer)

Nylon

74

Raschel lace

Raschel lace

84

Ponte di roma

Interlock

95

Panné velour

Crushed, flattened surface

107

Matelassé knit

Quilted effect

Also see:

__ __ __ __

OTHER TYPES OF TEXTILES

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

70

Interfacing

Web nonwoven

Polyester and rayon

71

Fusible nonwoven interfacing

Fusible web nonwoven

Polyester and rayon (polyester dots)

72

Felt (navy)

Felt

Wool and polyester

73

Eyelet fabric (white)

Embroidered fabric

Polyester/cotton (blend)

74

Raschel lace (purple)

Raschel lace

Nylon

75

Quilted material

Quilted material

Shell: acetate Filler: polyester Scrim: polyester

DYED FABRICS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

76

Greige goods

Greige goods

Cotton

77

Iridescent (magenta)

Piece dyed (cross)

Blue: nylon Pink: polyester

78

Lightweight poplin (peacock)

Piece dyed (union)

Polyester/cotton (blend)

79

Madras (plaid)

Yarn dyed

Cotton

80

Gingham (black and white)

Yarn dyed

Polyester/cotton (blend)

13

Nainsook

Piece dyed

112

Market umbrella fabric

Solution dyed

Also see:

__ __

PRINTED FABRICS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

81

Printed check (black and white)

Printed woven design

Polyester/cotton (blend)

82

Flannelette (print)

Printed(napped finish)

Cotton

83

Calico

Blotch print

Polyester/cotton (blend)

84

Ponte di roma (yellow)

Overprint (pigment)

Polyester

85

French piqué (stripe)

Heat transfer print

Polyester

86

ITY (blue print)

ITY fabric

Polyester and spandex (corespun)

87

Burn-out batiste (white)

Burn-out design (sheer effect)

Cotton with polyester core

88

Burn-out velvet (black)

Burn-out design (pile effect)

Rayon and polyester (mixture)

Liquid lamé

Allover metallic effect

Also see: 99

__

TEXTILE FINISHES

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

89

Staybright™ fabric* (orange)

Bleach resistant color

Cotton/polyester (blend)

90

Drill (olive)

Suede finish

Cotton

91

Brushed knit (lemon)

Brushed (napped) finish

Polyester

92

Paper taffeta (classic blue)

Water repellent finish

Nylon

93

Chintz (pink)

Glazed calender finish

Cotton

94

Moiré taffeta (black)

Moiré finish

Acetate

95

Panné Velour (silver grey)

Crushed (flattened) surface

Polyester and spandex (corespun)

96

Stretch plissé (blue and white)

Pucker effect

Warp: cotton Filling: cotton and spandex (corespun)

97

Seersucker (multicolor)

Seersucker

Cotton

98

Accordion pleat

Pleating

Polyester

17

Broadcloth

Mercerized and compressive shrinkage finish

__

31

Faille

Moiré finish

76

Greige goods

Greige goods

79

Madras

Fabric not mercerized

105

Yoryu

Heat set crinkle effect

113

Buckram

Stiffening finish

Also see:

*Courtesy of WestPoint Home

__ __ __ __ __

SPECIAL FABRICS

Swatch Number

Fabric Description

Purpose of Swatch

Fiber Content

99

Liquid lamé

Allover metallic effect

Polyester

100

Coated fabric (brown)

Down proof

Nylon

101

Allover flock (blue grey)

Flocking

Flock: nylon Back: polyester/cotton (blend)

102

Moleskin (dusty pink)

Lightly sueded finish

Warp: polyester Filling: polyester and spandex (corespun)

103

Poplinette (grey gull)

Supplex® nylon

Supplex® nylon

104

Rip stop fabric (silver sage)

Rip stop

Nylon

105

Yoryu (coral)

Crinkle effect

Polyester

106

Fortuny satin (antique white)

Fortuny effect

Rayon

107

Matelassé knit (brown)

Quilted effect

Polyester

108

Polar fleece type (navy)

Double brushed fabric

Polyester

109

Vinyl rainwear (black)

Waterproof vinyl coating

Face: vinyl Back: polyester

110

Designer jacquard

Accessory fabric

Face: nylon and rayon (mixture) Back: vinyl

111

Luggage fabric

High denier yarn

Nylon

112

Market umbrella fabric**

Sunbrella® acrylic

Acrylic

113

Buckram

Stiffening finish

Warp: cotton Filling: polyester monofilament

114

Placemat material

Plastic coated

Nylon

®

**Courtesy of Glen Raven

FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT / Fabric Sample Sheet

Swatch

Swatch

Swatch

Swatch Number

Swatch Number

Swatch Number

Fabric Name

Fabric Name

Fabric Name

Fiber Content

Fiber Content

Fiber Content

Yarn Type

Yarn Type

Yarn Type

Weave/Knit Type

Weave/Knit Type

Weave/Knit Type

Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration

Method of Coloration

Method of Coloration

Finish

Finish

Finish

End Use

End Use

End Use

Notes

Notes

Notes

© Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.