Fabric+&+Apparel+Performance+Testing+Protocol

FABRI FAB RIC C AND A ND APPA APPA REL REL PERFORMA PERFORMANCE NCE TESTING PROTOCOL

L iz Cla Cl aiborne borne, I nc.

Upda pdated: Nov 20 2011 11

GUIDELINES GUIDELINES FOR FABRIC FA BRIC AND APPAREL APPA REL TESTING.... TESTING......... .......... .......... .......... ......... ...... 3 1.  ADULTS----------- ADUL TS------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3 2.

CHILDREN------------------------CHILDREN---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

FABRIC FAB RIC TESTING TESTING A ND PERFORMANCE PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS..... .......... .......... ........ ...7 7 1.

WOVEN FABRIC------------FAB RIC------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7

2.

KNIT FABRIC FAB RIC --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9

3.

FUNCTIONAL FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FINISHED FABRICS FAB RICS AND GARMENTS---------------------GARMENTS----------------------------------------- 11

GARMENT TESTING TESTING AND A ND PERFORMANCE PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS SPECIFICATIONS ......... ........... ..12 12 1.

WOVEN GARMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12

2.

KNITWEAR CUT-SEW CUT-SEW GARMENTS GARMENTS AND SWEATERS--------------SWEATERS ----------------------------------------------- 14

3.

LEATHER LEA THER GARMENTS-------------GARMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16

4.

INTIMATE--------------------------------------INTIMATE-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17

5.

DOWN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20

L iz Cla Cl aiborne iborne, I nc.

2

Guidelines for Fabri c and Apparel Testing 1.

ADULTS  APPAREL

TESTS

TEXTILES S =Standard Performance Tests NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & BLEND F =Tests may be Performed in Fabric REGENERATED FIBERS FIBERS Form

TRIMS / ACCESSORIES LEATHER

METALS

PVC

LEATHER, PLASTICS COATED LININGS LEATHER

FIBER CONTENT LAB ELING 1) Fiber Content

F

1) Blended Fibers 2) Single Fiber a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc. b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request CARE LABELING Dimensional Stability to 2) Laundering Dimensional Stability to Dry 3) Cleaning 4) Appearance after Laundering

5)

Conditional List

Conditional List Conditional List

Appearance after Dry Cleaning F

6)

Colorfastness to Laundering

7)

Colorf astness to Dry Cleaning

F

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine F Bleach (For USA Only) 9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits ) Single Knits such as J ersey, French  Terry, Pique, etc. using Single Yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics 8)

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S S

S

(Leather Clean)

 Trims are Tested same as Garments  Trims may require additional testing, refer to (Leather Clean)  Trim Section S S

(Leather Clean)

Conditional List Conditional List

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

S

S

S S S S Conditional List

FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE Flammabilit y (General Wearing 10) Conditional List Conditional List  Ap par el) F 1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme) 2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface Exemptions - Fabrics made Entirely or in Combinations of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers For additional inform ation, refer  to "Flammability Testing" in this Section of t he Manual

PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE 11) Colorfastness to Crocking (Medium & Dark F Colors)

S

Conditional List

S

S

3

 APPAREL

TESTS

TEXTILES

S =Standard Performance Tests NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & BLEND F =Tests may be Performed in Fabric REGENERATED FIBERS FIBERS Form 12) Colorf astness to Water F Conditional List Conditional List Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles F

13) Colorfastness to Light Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / P rints, Bright Colors, Golf and Tennis Apparel, Leather F 14) Colorfast ness to Perspiratio n Silk, Golf and Tennis Apparel Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool 15) Water  Swimwear Colorfastness to Sea Water  16) Swimwear F pH 17) In White Color Fabric or For China F 18) Tensile Strength (Woven) F 19) Seam Slip page (Woven) F 20) Tearing Strength (Woven) 21) Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Threads or Low Stitch Density 22) Abrasio n Resistance (Woven)F Plain Fabric 23) Pilling Resistance F Raised F iber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made of Wool, Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton or Rayon Blends 24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane 25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in 26) StorageF Contrast Colors / C olor Block 27) Colorf astness to Ozone (woven)F Denim or White 28) Pile Retention F Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velvet, Chenille, etc. F 29) Bowin g and Skewing Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe F 30) Fabric Weight Restrict ed Substances Tests

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

TRIMS / ACCESSORIES LEATHER

METALS

PVC

LEATHER, PLASTICS COATED LININGS LEATHER

Conditional List

Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List S S S Conditional List

Conditional List Conditional List S S S S S S Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List

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Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional ListConditional List S S Refer to Section in the Manual on Restrict ed Substances Protoc ol for Apparel... ADULT

4

Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing 2.

CHILDREN  APPAREL

TESTS

TEXTILES

S =Standard Performance Tests F =Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form

TRIMS / ACCESSORIES

NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & REGENERATED BLENDED FIBERS FIBERS

LEATHER

METALS PVC

PLASTICS

LEATHER, COATED LEATHER

LININGS

FIBER CONTENT LAB ELING 1) Fiber Content

F

3) Blended Fibers 4) Single Fiber a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc. b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request CARE LABELING Dimensional Stability 2) (Shrinkage) to Laundering Dimensional Stability 3) (Shrinkage) to Dry Cleaning 4) Appearance after Laundering

5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning 6) Colorf astness to Laundering

F

7) Colorf astness to Dry Cleaning 8)

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach F (For USA Only)

9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knit s)

F

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

S S

S S

Single Knits such as J ersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE Flammabilit y (General Wearing 10) Conditional List F  Ap par el) 1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme) 2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface Exemptions- Fabrics made Entirely or in Combination of  Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers For additional Information, refer  to "Flammability" in this section PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE F 11) Colorf astness to Water  Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles F 12) Colorfastness to Crocking F 13) Colorfastness to Perspiration

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

S

S

(Leather Clean)

 Trims are Tested same as Garments  Trims may require additional testing, refer S to (Leather Clean)  Trim Section S (Leather Clean)

S S

S S S S

S

5

 APPAREL

TESTS

TEXTILES

TRIMS / ACCESSORIES

S =Standard Performance Tests F =Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form

NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & LEATHER REGENERATED BLENDED METALS PVC FIBERS FIBERS Conditional Conditional List 14) Colorfastness to Light F Conditional List List Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / P rints, Bright Colors, Leather Colorfastness to Saliva (Under  15) S S S 36 months) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Conditional 16) Pool Water  Conditional List List Swimwear Colorf astness to Sea Water  Conditional 17) Conditional List Swimwear List F S S 18) Tensile Strengt h (Woven) F S S 19) Seam Slippage (Woven) F S S 20) Tearing Strengt h (Woven) Conditional Conditional List 21) Seam Breaking Streng th List Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Thread or Low Stitch Density Conditional 22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F Conditional List List Plain Fabric

Conditional List

23) Pilling ResistanceF

Raised F iber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made from Wool, Acrylic, P olyester / Cotton or Rayon Blends 24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F

Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane F 25) Bursting Strength (Knits) Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, F abrics Treated with Resin 26) Pile Retention F Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velour, Chenille, etc. 27) pH Colorfastness to Dye Transfer  28) F in Storgage Contrast Colors / Color Block Colorfastness to Ozone 29) F (Woven) Denim or White 30) Bow ing and Skewing

F

Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe 31) Fabric Weight F Child Product Safety Tests and Requirements

Restrict ed Substances Tests

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Conditional List

PLASTICS

LEATHER, COATED LEATHER

LININGS

S S S Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

S

S

Conditional List

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S Conditional List

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Conditional List

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Conditional List

S

S Refer to Testing Protocol for Children's Apparel Safety in t his Section

Refer to Section in the Manual on Restrict ed Substances Protoco l on Apparel… CHILDREN

6

Fabri c Testing and Performance Specifications 1.

WOVEN FABRIC Characterist ic

Test Method

End Use

Requirements No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content

AATCC 20 / 20A

All

Fabric Weight Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) Dimensional Stability to Laundering

ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 3775

All All

3 times washing is required for  Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on F abric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

AATCC 158

Dry Cleanable Fabrics

Bowing and Skewing

ASTM D 3882

All

Flammability

16 CFR Parts 1610

All Non-Exempt Fabrics

Pilling Resistance Pile Retention

 Ab ras io n Res is tan ce

 Ab ras io n Fl ex (Op ti on al)

AATCC 135 (modified)

ASTM D 3512, As requested 30 minutes ASTM D 4685 (Face 300 cycles / Back Pile Fabrics 100 Cycles) Plain Fabrics up to 7.5 oz/yd2 ASTM D 4966 Plain Fabrics over 7.5 oz/yd2 Linen Fabrics, Stiff  ASTM D 3885

 Ab ras io n Fl at (Fr os ti ng ) (Opt io nal ) AATCC 119

Tensile Strength

ASTM D 5034 – Grab Method

Tearing Strength

ASTM D 1424

Seam Sli ppage

ASTM D 434

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Washable Fabrics

For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance. +/- 3.0% Tolerance from Standard +/- 5% Tolerance from Standard Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for twoway Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for fourway Stretch Fabrics No Growth Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for twoway Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for fourway Stretch Fabrics No Growth Bowing: 1" Maximum. Skewing: 3% of F abric Width or 1.5” Maximum. Class 1 ONLY 3.0 Minimum 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back No rupture to 10,000 cycles No rupture to 15,000 cycles

Fabric (e.g. densely No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles woven or chemical Minimum finished stiffening with very little drape)

Durable press, Top stitch Shorts, Pants,  J eans, J ackets Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining Intimate

Color Change: 3.0 or better, 1200 Cycles 50 Lbs, Minimum 25 Lbs, Minimum 3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs 2.5 Lbs Minimum

Shorts, Pants,  J eans, J ackets, All Plus Size S tyles Blouse, Skirt, Dress, 1.5 Lbs Minimum Lining, excluding Plus Size S tyles Intimate 6 oz/yd2: min 2.5lbs Shorts, Pants, 25 Lbs Minimum

7

Characterist ic

Test Method

End Use

Requirements

 J eans, J ackets, All 1/4" Seam Opening / Separation Plus Size S tyles Skirt, Dress, Blouse, 15 Lbs Minimum Shirt, Lining, 1/4" Seam Opening / Separation excluding Plus Size Styles 6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs ¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation All, E xcept Silk and 25 Lbs Minimum Lining ASTMD D 1683 Silk or Lining 15 Lbs Minimum Intimate 6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs All Bottom Weight Elongation: 15 %, minimum Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 4%, maximum, 30 minutes ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs) All Top Weight Elongation: 10%, minimum Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 6%, maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or All better Intimate

Seam Breaking Str ength

Stretch and Recovery

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print AATCC 61, 2A Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times Refer to Liz# 3 washes are required for Appearance after Wash Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

Soaking Test (TS-001)

COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

All

Color Change: 4.0 or better

Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: COLOR BLOCK 4.5 or better(white) refer to Liz#4 4.0 or better (other color) Dry: 4.0 or better All, except Below Wet: 3.0 or better Dark Shades (Black, Dry: 4.0 or better Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better Indigos Dry: 3.0 or better; Wet: 2.0 or better Pigments Dry: 3.5 or better; Wet: 2.5 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better All Staining: 3.0 or better All

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

AATCC 132

Colorfastness to Crocking

AATCC 8

Colorfastness to Water 

AATCC 107

COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

All Colorfastness to Perspiration

Colorfastness to Light

AATCC 15

AATCC 16,

Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage

AATCC 163

pH Value

AATCC 81

AATCC 109 Colorfastness to Ozone Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool AATCC162 Water  Colorfastness to Sea Water 

AATCC106

COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4

20 AFU 5 AFU

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

All, Except Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better Silk Color Change and Staining: Contrast Colors, 4.5 or better(white) Color Block refer to Liz#4 4.0 or better (other color) 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) All 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors) Denim or White 3.5 or better @ 2 cycles Color Change: 4.0 or better Swimwear Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Swimwear Staining: 3.0 or better

Restrict ed Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

8

Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 2.

KNIT FABRIC Characteristic

Test Method

Applicable For

Requ irements No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content

AATCC 20 / 20A

Fabric Weight

ASTM D 3776

Fabric Count (Wales & Courses) Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

ASTM D 3887 AATCC 135 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance. Fabrics +/- 3% Tolerance from standard Stretch Fabrics +/- 5% Tolerance from standard All +/- 5% Tolerance from standard Maximum, Length : -7%, Width: -7%, if the garment shrinkage is Length: -5%, Width: -5% or less Washable Fabrics  All Synthetic or Synthetic Rich FabricsMaximum: Length: -5 %, Width: -5% or  less No Growth All

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based AATCC 158 on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

Dry Cleanable Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% No Growth

Resistance to Torque (Spirality)

Refer to Liz#1

Single Knits and Loose Knits

Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion; 3% Maximum for Stripes or Horizontal Stitches Seam Torque: 5% Maximum

Flammability

16 CFR Parts 1610

Non-Exempt Fabrics

Class 1 ONLY

Pilling Resistance

ASTM D 3512, 30 Minutes No Glue on Edges; Sew All edges if needed

ISO 12945-1, 4 hours

4.0 Minimum

Fabrics cannot undergone AS TM D3512

3-4 Minimum 2

Burst Strength

ASTM D 3786

All

>or =150 gm/m : 55 Lbs Per Square Inch (PS I), Minimum 2 6 oz/yd2: min 2.5 lbs Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1683 6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs 55 PSI Minimum.

ASTM D 3786 ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges

Woven: 3.0 Minimum Knit: 4.0 Minimum All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods

Woven - ASTM D 3107 Stretch and Recovery

Knit - ASTM D 4964

Seam Stretchability (Knit Seams)

ASTM D1683 mod

AATCC 132

Colorfastness to Crocking

AATCC 8

Colorfastness to Water 

AATCC 107

Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC 15

Colorfastness to Light

pH Value

Bra Band Elongation Bra Seam Strengt h - Side - Cup - Front

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AATCC 16,

AATCC 81

All Top Weight Stretch Goods:

Elongation: 10% Minimum Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Modulus: +/- 15 Recovery: 85% Elongation: +/- 10% 7lbs min or 35% elongation

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, AATCC 61, 2A/ Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ / Glitter Print /Flocking Print if 3 times Refer to Liz# 3 washes are required for Appearance after  Wash Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001)

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning

Elongation: 15% Minimum Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes

20 AFU 5 AFU

Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5 Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0 Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

 Add it io nal Test s f or Br as On ly 1&2 Hook and Eye closure: 2.4 min & 1.5 max Refer to Liz#6 3&4 Hook and Eye closure: 3.4 min & 2.5 max

ASTM D1683 mod

15lbs

18

Test Descript ion Joining Strength - Center Front J oining (Cup to Cup) - Strap Joining (Strap to Cup)  At tac hm ent Str eng th - Strap - Embellishment Bra Closure Strengt h (Hook and Eye)

Test Method ASTM D1683 mod

ASTM D1683 mod

ASTM D1683 mod

Requirements 15lbs Clear Elastic: 20lbs Woven/ Knit Elastic: 25lbs 17 lbs/10 secs 1 Hook Bras: 25 lbs 2 – 3 Hook Bras: 35 lbs

 Ad di ti on al Tes ts fo r Pad ded (Water / Gel Pad ) Br as On ly Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (for  AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Color Change: 4.0 or better Bra Pad through garment only) Standard Measure Use Resistance Compression (burst Instron Compression Mode 100 psi minimum strength) – with Compression J aws Report Actual FTIR analysis Content/ Material ID Restrict ed Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

19

5. DOWN Test

Test Metho d

Requir ements

Content Labeling

Composition

ASTM D4524

As Claimed Must be 100% down to label as 100% Down, All Down, P ure Down Must be minimum 75% down to label as unqualified “Down” +/- 2 to 5% Tolerance for unavoidable variations

Microscopic

As claimed. Must be 90% of the plumage to label the specie

IDFB Part 7