F-02 Fabric Inspection Manual

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Title:

F-02 Fabric Inspection Manual

To:

PUMA/WC, Garment suppliers, fabric suppliers

Introduction:  Aim of this document is to make sure that tha t only fabrics which meet the Puma quality standard s tandard are used for Puma garments. This fabric manual is addressed to all parties involved in fabric inspection. Following this inspection manual will help to evaluate the Puma fabrics properly, will help to prevent that fabric defects are visible in the finished product and to promote the communication between fabric supplier and garment maker.

Responsibility: The fabric supplier is producing the fabrics and therefore responsible for the fabric quality shipped to the garment maker. Puma is buying finished garments and therefore the garment supplier is responsible for the fabric quality used in the garments. Puma does not accept any fabric defect in finished garments.

 Valid from: SS09 bulk production

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

1

Table of Contents

1. 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6

Required Equipment for Fabric Inspection Fabric Storage and Handling Fabric Inspection Area Fabric Inspection Machine Light Box and Dark Room Tools for Fabric Inspection First Dye Lot Colour Approval

2. 2.1 2.2 2.2.1 2.2.2 2.2.3 2.2.4 2.3 2.3.1 2.3.2 2.3.3 2.3.4

Fabric Inspection Procedure Inspection Sampling Size Fabric Inspection of Fabric Colour and Appearance Fabric Inspection of Fabric Colour Colour Shading within the Rolls Colour shading between the Rolls Fabric Appearance Fabric Inspection of Fabric Quality Fabric Inspection Speed Fabric Inspection Procedure Calculation of the scored Points Shipment Acceptability

3.

Fabric Defects and Tolerances

4. 4.1

Reporting Fabric Inspection Report

5. 5.1

Fabric Packaging Fabric Roll Identification Sticker

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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1. Required Equipment for Fabric Inspection

1.1

Fabric Storage and Handling • • •

1.2

Fabric Inspection Area • •

1.3

Fabrics may not be stored on the floor. Shelf systems are recommended to allow clean and safe fabric storage. Knitted and elastic fabrics have to be handled separately to avoid overstretching and must be relaxed a minimum of 24 hours before cutting. White and light coloured fabrics have to be handled with special care.

Must be clean, neat, dry and well-lit Recommended is a maximum working temperature of 30°C (86°F)

Fabric Inspection Machine Inspection frame must be equipped with a flat viewing table, variable speed drive,  Yard /Meter counter and sufficient overhead direct lighting.

• • •

• •

Interruptible speed controlled fabric rewind. Fabric inspection machine must have the option to run forward and backwards. Equipped with overhead CWF direct lighting source (Cool white fluorescent light / day light). The surface illumination level shall be a minimum of 1075 Lux (100 foot candles). Back lighting (transmitted light) to see through the fabric should be available. The overhead lighting source shall be mounted parallel to the viewing surface. Inspection table should be 45 – 30 degree tilted.  Viewing distance for the fabric inspection should be 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm).

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

3

1. Required Equipment for Fabric Inspection

1.4

Light Box and Dark Room

Fabric colour inspection must be done by using a standardized lighting cabinet which is placed in a conditioned room with no outside light interference. The wall of the room should be in a neutral grey or black colour. Color of light box inside wall must be neutral grey • •

Primary light source for colour assessment is D65 (daylight) The secondary lighting is TL 84 / F11 (department store light)

Recommended light box brands are • • •

 Verivide CAC 60, CAC 120, CAC 150 Gretag Macbeth Judge II/ Spectralight III  Atlas Variolux

Bulb specification: •

D65 “daylight” conforming to the international standard (6500K)

•

TL 84 “department store light” made by Phillips (4100K)

Bulbs have to be replaced latest after 2000 hours in use. This must be documented. Failing to properly maintain the light box will result in inaccurate visual assessment. Light box needs to have an elapsed time meter for tracking optimal lamp replacement. Exact part numbers of light tubes and the number of hours for replacement should be followed per manufacturer’s instructions.

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

4

1. Required Equipment for Fabric Inspection

1.5 • • • •

1.6

Tools for Fabric Inspection Scissors Measuring tape Defect stickers and /or Selvedge Defect Flags Inspection report form

First Dye Lot Colour Approval

Fabric supplier has to send the first dye lot colour approval of each ordered fabric in all colours to World Cat for approval before shipment. Size of the fabric sample must be at least 20 cm x 16 cm. The first dye lot colour approval card needs to have detailed information regarding fabric number, fabric supplier name, colour number, fabric width, fabric weight and fabric composition.

Garment maker have to use the first dye lot colour approval as a reference for colour approval.

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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2. Fabric Inspection Procedure

Fabric inspection is based on ASTM D 5430 / Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics. Fabric defect classification is based on ASTM D 3990.

2.1

Inspection Sampling Size

•

Fabric suppliers must do a 100 % fabric inspection.

•

Garment maker should inspect at least 10 % of all incoming fabrics by colour within at least 7 days.

2.2

Fabric Inspection of Fabric Colour and Fabric Appearance

Depending on the fabric and colour, garment supplier and fabric supplier have to ensure a proper and sufficient fabric inspection of fabric colour and fabric appearance. E.g. coated fabrics need in general more attention than basic jersey fabrics. Fabric colour control has to be done in a standardized light box under both D65 and TL84 light sources as described in point 1.4. Fabrics made of natural fibres like cotton and their blends have to be conditioned for 30 minutes in a room with 20°C and 65 % humidity before colour approval. For the visual assessment of colours, the samples should be placed flat on the grey surface of the light box.

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

bottom

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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2. Fabric Inspection Procedure

2.2.1

Fabric Inspection of Fabric Colour:

Fabric supplier has to check the fabric colour of all different dyeing batches against the first dye lot colour approval under consideration of the Puma master colour standard. Colours of different dyeing batches must be within the tolerance of ∆E = 1.0 and visually acceptable. Garment supplier has to check the fabric colour of all inspected fabric rolls against the first dye lot colour approval.

2.2.2

Colour Shading within the rolls:

The fabric supplier has to ensure and control the colour within every roll. Garment supplier have to cut from the beginning of each inspected roll, fabric samples from the left, middle and right fabric side of each inspected fabric roll to check colour shading against the approved first dye lot sample.

2.2.3

Colour Shading between the rolls:

Fabric supplier has to check every dyeing batch against the approved first dye lot sample and Puma colour standard. Fabric samples have to be cut from the left side, the centre and the right side of the fabric and must be checked against the approved first dye lot sample. Garment supplier has to check colour consistency between the different fabric rolls. Fabric samples have to be cut from the left side, the centre and the right side of each inspected roll, and must be checked against the approved first dye lot sample.

2.2.4

Fabric Appearance:

Fabrics have to be checked against the approved bulk fabric sample for: • •

General outlook Handfeel

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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2. Fabric Inspection Procedure

2.3. Fabric Inspection of Fabric Quality Every Puma fabric inspection must be done on a fabric inspection machine as described in point 1.3.  Always inspect the fabric side which will be used as the face in the finished garment. Fabric defects have to be scored only within the cuttable fabric width.

2.3.1. Fabric Inspection Speed: • •

Maximum fabric inspection speed is 20 yards/min. (18 meter/min.) depending on the fabric, colour and inspectors ability White fabrics needs to be inspected with less speed.

2.3.2. Fabric Inspection Procedure: •

•

• • • • •

The cuttable fabric width has to be measured at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of each inspected fabric roll. Minus tolerance for the cuttable width is max. ½ inch (1,27 cm) The length of each roll should not be less than the length printed on the fabric roll identification sticker. Minus tolerance for the fabric length is maximum 1%. The fabrics have to pass lengthwise the lighted inspection table at a visual inspection speed. In case a defect is found, the inspector has to stop the fabric inspection machine. The defect must be observed, measured and documented. Every defect must be visible marked at the selvage and/or at the defect by using defect stickers Defects are evaluated based on the defect length according to the 4 point grading system.

Four Point Table valid for vertical and horizontal defects Defect length 0 – 3 inch / 0 – 75 mm 3.1 – 6 inch / 76 – 150 mm 6.1 – 9 inch / 151 – 230 mm > 9 inch / > 230 mm

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

assigned points 1 point 2 point 3 point 4 point

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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2. Fabric Inspection Procedure

2.3.3. Calculation of the scored points: The scored points have to be calculated on a 100 square yards / 100 square meters basis: Calculation of the average points for the inspected shipment:

 Average Points / 100 yd² =

 Average Points / 100 m² =

total points of  inspected rolls x 100 x 36 total inspected yards x cuttable width in inch

total points of  inspected rolls  x 100 total inspected meters  x cuttable width in m

2.3.4. Shipment Acceptability for bulk fabrics: •

 An average of 20 points per 100 square yards is the maximum tolerance.

•

 An average of 22 points per 100 square meters is the maximum tolerance.

•

 A continuous lengthwise running defect has to be scored with 4 points to each square yard (square meter) where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 cm).

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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3. Fabric Defects and Tolerances

The fabric defects listed shall be classified as either a major or minor defect. Major defect: Defects scoring more than 3 points are called major defects. Minor defect: Defects scoring with 1-3 points are called minor defects.

PUMA is not providing a list of potential fabric defects, because the defects do vary by material and fabric construction. We encourage suppliers to purchase the ASTM D 3990 norm, which describes in detail the fabric defects and the correct terminology. The persons doing the fabric inspection must receive regular trainings.

broken pick 

broken filament

crack marks

foreign fibres

The garment supplier is responsible for the fabric quality and consequently it is his decision to use a fabric shipment. If fabrics are faulty and do not comply with the quality standard and thus cannot be dealt with during cutting, the garment supplier has to contact the fabric supplier to solve the problem. Only if there is no quick solution, the garment supplier should contact the branch office.

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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4. Reporting

The fabric supplier must send to the garment maker prior to every fabric shipment: • • •

Passed fabric inspection report Shade band with fabric swatches from all different dye-batches Passed bulk fabric test report

4.1. Fabric Inspection Report: Every fabric quality inspection carried out must be documented on an inspection report. One colour = one or more dye lot = One inspection report Fabric inspection reports of the fabric suppliers must include the following formation: • • • • • • • • • •

Date of fabric inspection Fabric number, colour code, order number, Fabric width, Fabric Roll Number Dye lot number Weight per each fabric roll Fabric length per roll Number of scored points per each fabric roll Kind of scored fabric defects Name of inspector

Depending on the fabric material and finishing, the possible defects might differ.  All garment suppliers who do carry out an incoming inspection of fabric must use the attached  “World Cat Fabric Inspection Report” only. Reports have to be available upon request.

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

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5. Fabric Packaging

Fabrics have to be careful rolled and packed in polyethylene foil. The thickness of foil has to support the fabric.

5.1 Fabric Roll Identification Sticker Each fabric roll must have an identification sticker which gives detailed information regarding: • • • • • •

Order number Dye-batch number Fabric number / fabric identification Colour number and name Fabric width Fabric length

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

12

 Author: Stefan Goergner Date:

17.03.2008

Approved by: Sandra Vollmert

Document No.: F-02

Date:

Version: 3

17.03.2008

13