El Valle de Ica por Ernst W. Middendorf
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"En los alrededores de la ciudad de Ica se encuentran en el desierto pequeñas lagunas, cuya agua consiste de una so...
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San José de los Molinos
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El valle de Ica ernst w. midddendorf
La ciudad y región de Ica, antes provincia del departamento dep artamento de Lima, fue separada de éste, en 1855 durante el gobierno de Castilla y, por ley del Congreso, en 1868 se constituyó en departamento, que incluía los valles de Chincha, Pisco y Palpa. El valle de Ica es, quizás más fértil aún que los de Cañete y Chincha, escasamente provisto de agua. El río que nace en la Cordillera de Huaitará, en el departamento de Huancavelica, sólo conduce agua en los meses de verano, de enero a abril, y en ciertos días llega entonces hasta el mar; sin embargo su caudal normal se agota ya a 14 leguas de la costa, de modo que la zona que riega, es como un oasis en medio del desierto. La ciudad de Ica está situada a una distancia en línea recta, de más o menos 10 leguas del mar y a 14 del puerto de Pisco. Pisco no se halla en el estuario del río Ica, sino en la desembocadura
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oeste, mientras que el río Ica, después de un corto curso hacia el oeste, se dirige al sur, donde su cauce, que conduce a veces agua durante la crecida hasta el mar, desemboca en la Bahía de Nazca, a más de un grado de latitud al sur de Pisco. El área que separa a ambos ríos en la vecindad de la costa, es un extenso desierto de arena, la Pampa de Chunchanga, cuyo suelo se ha elevado paulatinamente, como ha ocurrido en otras regiones de la costa, después de haber estado cubiertas por el mar, durante largo tiempo. El puerto de Pisco no se halla en una bahía, sino en una playa ligeramente curvada, sin protección alguna contra los vientos, ni tampoco contra el oleaje sudeste. Una gran extensión es de poca profundidad hasta mar muy adentro, por lo que las olas rompen muy lejos de la playa. Esta zona de rompiente, que aquí, como en otros de la costa se conoce con el nombre de la tasca, abarca en Pisco, de 1,000 a 1,500 pies de ancho cuando el mar está algo movido o hay marea alta. Por esta razón, para facilitar la carga y descarga de los buques, se ha construido un muelle, que penetra 2,200 pies en el mar: una estructura en esqueleto apoyada sobre pilares de hierro, sostenidos v unidos por barras transversales del mismo material, y que es la obra más notable de este tipo en en la costa occidental. La ubicación del desembarcadero en un lugar tan desprovisto de protección que hizo imprescindible la construcción de un costoso muelle, no se debió, en manera alguna, a la ausencia de bahías más protegidas, ya que dos
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bahía, bien protegida contra los fuertes vientos del sur de profundidad suficiente y de anclaje favorable, habría sido un excelente puerto natural, sino careciera de agua dulce para el abastecimiento de los barcos. Una segunda bahía, situada aún más al sur, y formada por el promontorio Carretas, se abre hacia el sur; algunos pequeños islotes situados al frente la protegen solo insuficientemente contra los vientos que soplan de esta dirección, y es por consiguiente inferior a la Bahía de Paracas. No obstante, fue elegida como lugar de desembarco por la escuadra chilena, que bajo las órdenes del General San Martín, se hizo a la vela rumbo al Perú en 1820, para libertar a este país de la dominación española. En conmemoración de este acontecimiento y de la declaración de la Independencia del Perú, el Congreso decretó que esta bahía llevase en adelante el nombre de Bahía de la Independencia. El autor visitó el valle de Ica antes que los de Cañete y Chincha, que acabamos de describir. En mayo de 1885, un amigo, que explotaba entonces en esa región una mina de cobre le invitó a acompañarle en su viaje, la perspectiva de conocer el valle con un tan buen cicerone lo indujo a aceptar esta invitación, pese a que el país se encontraba envuelto todavía en la guerra civil que estalló después del tratado de paz con Chile. Una tarde partimos de Lima y subimos temprano, a bordo del vapor chileno Laja, cuya salida estaba fi jada a las seis en punto. Sin embargo se hizo bastante tarde antes de que el buque zarpara, pues se estuvo esperando que
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a su competidor chileno, demoró intencionalmente el arribo de su buque. Por consiguiente, el Laja esperó en vano, y abandonó finalmente el puerto, sin haber logrado su propósito. De los pocos viajeros que habían a bordo, casi todos deseaban, como nosotros, dirigirse a Pisco. El vapor no hizo escala en Cerro Azul, y sólo se detuvo muy corto tiempo en Tambo de Mora, sin echar el ancla. La travesía de aquí a Pisco dura sólo dos horas y se navega siempre cerca de la costa. Aunque la vegetación se limita a una débil faja verde, desaparece por completo sólo en un tramo de pocas leguas. Se mantiene únicamente gracias a la humedad proveniente del río Chincha, pues el valle de Pisco es de pequeña extensión en la desembocadura del río. El río Chunchanga se seca casi completamente en el invierno y al sur del puerto, los raquíticos arbustos desaparecen pronto en el desierto. El puerto de Pisco tiene pocas casas y la ciudad del mismo nombre queda a una distancia de kilómetro y medio, tierra adentro. Como ya a las once habíamos llegado y el tren a Ica parte sólo por la tarde, aprovechamos nuestro tiempo para visitar la ciudad, utilizando el tranvía de trocha angosta que parte cada media hora desde el puerto. Los vagones eran malos y viejos, y aún nuevos no deben haber sido buenos; las mulas que tiraban de ellos tenían la crin cortada en forma de escalera, y así lo habían hecho he cho para poder reconocerlas en caso de que las robasen. La ciudad de Pisco aparecía aún más abandonada v deshabitada que el puerto,
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vistoso, mas el interior, pese a sus tres naves, n aves, es desolado y desnudo. Media docena de sucias y viejas morenas estaban arrodilladas en los reclinatorios. En la plaza, una fuente sin agua, y en torno a ella postes de faroles sin faroles; delante del cuartel, apoyados sobre estacas de madera, seis fusiles oxidados; el centinela no estaba en su puesto, sino que charlaba en una pulpería con el pulpero italiano. Como hacía calor, y deseábamos tomar algunos refrescos, le ofrecimos al conductor del tranvía una propina, para que nos esperase, y éste aceptó sin vacilación. La ciudad de Pisco tuvo tiempos mejores. En el primer siglo de la dominación española, se la menciona como una hermosa villa, próspera y bien poblada. Estaba situada entonces a orillas del mar y ésta fue su ruina. Corsarios ingleses la saquearon en 1622 y 63 años después (1685), corrió la misma suerte. Sin embargo, fue peor aún la desgracia que sufrió 2 años después del último saqueo. En el terremoto de 1687, que causó considerables daños también a Lima y al Callao, una ola gigantesca barrió Pisco y la ciudad quedó destruida casi tan completamente como el Callao en 1746. Por consiguiente, la ciudad no fue reedificada en su antiguo sitio, sino un poco alejada del mar, en el lugar donde se encuentra actualmente;
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puntiagudos abajo y arriba redondeados en forma de pera. Como no tienen ninguna superficie plana que les sirva de apoyo, se les coloca en fila contra la pared. Todo el ferrocarril, incluyendo rieles, vagones y locomotoras estaban en tan mal estado, y tan necesitados de reparación como la estación misma, ya que los ingresos cubrían apenas los costos de la empresa, y sólo se despachaban dos trenes semanales, siempre después del arribo del vapor correo. El tren deja pronto el valle de Pisco y doblando d oblando hacia la derecha ingresa al desierto. Al principio, éste no carece completamente de vegetación, se notan muchos pequeños montículos de d e arena de curioso aspecto, cubiertos de grama medio seca y con sus raíces entrelazadas. El viento barre la arena suelta debajo de estos montículos, de modo que quedan curiosas formas fantasmales. Vienen luego trechos completamente desérticos, con colinas formadas por la arena que lleva el viento, semejantes a medias lunas y a veces arbustos no completamente secos, semienterrados en la arena, indican que la humedad no falta enteramente en las capas profundas; por esto se han plantado en esos lugares lu gares palmeras de dátiles, que se encuentran ya aisladas, ya en grupos y forman hasta pequeños bosques en algunos sitios. Sin embargo,
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de altura. Uno de estos altos médanos, llamado Zaraja o Cerraja, está situado en medio del valle, a la entrada de la ciudad, con cúspides y lados agudamente perfilados por el viento. Después de un viaje de tres horas y media, llegamos a Ica, antes de que oscureciera y nos alojamos en una amplia casa de antigua arquitectura española, con un gran portón a la calle, un patio principal, por el que se ingresa a la sala de recibo; a los lados hay habitaciones y detrás de la sala un pequeño jardín; luego el comedor, y en el extremo un pequeño corral para cuadrúpedos y gallinas. La casa, como casi todas las de la ciudad, tenía sólo un piso y muros extraordinariamente anchos, debido a los frecuentes movimientos sísmicos. Ica es la capital del departamento del mismo nombre, sede sed e de la Prefectura, de una Corte Superior, y tiene aproximadamente 7 mil habitantes1. Aunque la ciudad es antigua –una de las primeras ciudades que fundaron los españoles— casi todas las casas que existen actualmente fueron construidas mucho más tarde. Cieza, al hablar de Ica, se refiere sólo al valle, pero no menciona todavía ningún pueblo. La primera población española fue fundada en 1563 con el nombre de Villa de Valverde, lugar está más
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derrumbó muchos edificios y dañó a casi todos; la tierra siguió temblando por espacio de un cuarto de hora. Murieron más de 400 personas sepultadas y aplastadas bajo los escombros. La víspera de aquel día fue asesinado un sacerdote y los religiosos consideraron el terremoto como un castigo del cielo por el crimen cometido, a pesar de que tampoco las iglesias escaparon a su furia. Sobre las ruinas de esta ciudad fue construida la actual, con el nombre de San Jerónimo de Ica, En el curso de los años se edificaron los conventos de las cinco Órdenes religiosas, que también se habían establecido en otras ciudades del Perú, es decir: de los dominicos, franciscanos, mercedarios, agustinos y jesuitas. En 1814 un terremoto destruyó los conventos; después de la Emancipación fueron clausurados y actualmente, sus iglesias están en ruinas, en tanto que los conventos con ventos sirven, unos para escuelas y otros para hospitales. Según Paz Soldán, el nombre primitivo de la ciudad era Huananica, palabra, de la cual Ica no es sino su terminación. Ica como todos los pueblos de la costa, es de trazo regular, las calles se cruzan en ángulos rectos, carecen todavía de pavimento, pero sus aceras están bien cuidadas. Casi todas las casas son solamente de un piso, la mayor parte
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fuente, cercado por una reja. A un lado está el Cabildo con sus portales; en otro se levanta el frontispicio de la iglesia principal o matriz. Es la única iglesia bien construida y de aspecto pulcro que hay en la ciudad, tiene dos torres, a los lados de la fachada y una cúpula sobre el crucero. El interior de las tres naves está pintado de blanco y no tiene otro adorno que dos antiguos altares de madera oscura, artísticamente tallados. Entre otros edificios públicos, merecen mencionarse un mercado cubierto y dos hospitales. El hospital de hombres de San Juan de Dios, instalado en el antiguo convento de la Orden, disponía de 40 camas en el tiempo de nuestra visita. El hospital de mujeres (el Refugio), fue originalmente una casa de retiro, y las que vivían en ella no llevaban ningún hábito especial; actualmente se atiende allí a 20 enfermas. Ambos hospitales, por el e l número de habitaciones de que disponen, podrían haber dado cabida a un mayor número de enfermos, pero a consecuencia de la desvalorización del papel moneda, sus ingresos se habían reducido a la vigésima parte de su monto anterior. Como la ciudad está situada en el centro del valle, rodeada de vegetación, no faltan allí las fiebres miasmáticas, pero comparado con el de otros valles, su clima resulta sano,
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dos veces al mes y a menudo con tal fuerza, que los rieles del ferrocarril se cubren de arena y el tren sólo avanza con dificultad. En estas ocasiones, se levantan nubes de polvo de tal densidad que no es posible reconocer los cerros del contorno y es necesario cerrar todas las puertas y ventanas. Durantenuestra permanencia en Ica hicimos tres excursiones por los alrededores, a la mina de cobre de Canza, a la laguna de Huacachina y a las haciendas del valle. El asiento minero de Canza está a 5 leguas de la ciudad, a una altura de aproximadamente 3,500 pies, en los contrafuertes de la Cordillera. Cabalgamos por agradables caminos a través del valle y cruzamos el río, que llevaba ya muy poca agua. Allí donde cesa la vegetación, comienza una llanura que pronto asciende lentamente hacia la Cordillera. Grandes bloques de granito, de pórfido negro y rojo, así como
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semiesféricas, comparable a erizos, (Mamillarias). Paulatinamente la llanura ascendente se estrecha y forma un valle escarpado, del cual un buen camino sube a la casa de la mina. Era ya de noche cuando llegamos allí. Desde la casa nos llegaba el resplandor del hogar encendido y en lo alto, encima del techo, en un cielo rojo, se divisaba la hoz horizontal de la luna nueva. Ya los españoles habían explotado con bastante éxito las minas de Canza, y más tarde el constructor de ferrocarriles, Henry Meiggs las adquirió, en la década del setenta y constituyó una sociedad por acciones. Al principio se obtuvieron buenas utilidades, pero éstas disminuyeron con la baja del cobre, de tal manera que los yacimientos, después de la muerte de Meiggs, fueron vendidos al precio de 14 mil pesos, a los actuales propietarios. Estos creyeron haber hecho un buen negocio, pero pronto se
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que conocí cómo se cultiva la tierra en una hacienda pobre de agua. En este año, los cultivos sólo habían sido regados dos veces. Para este fin, se levantan vallas de tierra de dos pies de alto en los bordes de los campos y se los inunda. Después de 10 días, cuando el agua ha sido absorbida por el suelo, se repite el riego y luego los campos ya no reciben agua, durante todo el año, hasta la entrada de la próxima estación de lluvias en la sierra, en los meses de enero a abril, cuando repuntan nuevamente los ríos. Cuando la lluvia es escasa, algunas haciendas reciben agua sólo una vez y para las tierras de la parte inferior del valle no queda nada. En los alrededores de la ciudad de Ica se encuentran en el desierto pequeñas lagunas, cuya agua consiste de una solución más o menos saturada de diversas sustancias minerales, entre las que predominan la sal común y el sulfato de sodio. Todas
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encuentra Ica. era en tiempos remotos el fondo de un mar de poca profundidad, y las colinas de arena que en ella se encuentran son las dunas que amontonó la rompiente, a medida que el mar se iba retirando cada vez más hacia el oeste. Mientras grandes extensiones poco profundas, se secaron rápidamente, otras que tenían más profundidad, permanecieron más tiempo cubiertas por el agua del mar, pero también ésta se evaporó paulatinamente y formó de este es te modo un concentrado de partículas de sal, hasta que éstas, ya completamente secas se mezclaron con la arena. En algunos lugares particularmente profundos, el agua no pudo secarse s ecarse por completo, ya que el volumen evaporado, era restituido por agua dulce, que se infiltraba desde el río a través de las capas del suelo; a este fenómeno deben su origen las pequeñas lagunas que vamos a visitar. La laguna más conocida es la de Huacachina, a la que se
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agua dulce que alimentan el césped y los arbustos. También si se cava un hueco cerca de la laguna, éste se llena pronto con agua fresca, mientras que la arena en torno está fuertemente mezclada con partículas de sal que cubren el suelo, en algunos sitios, con costras de cristales. En el extremo inferior o sur de la laguna, se encuentra, separada de ella por una faja de tierra de pocos pasos de ancho, una segunda laguna, más pequeña, cuya agua es de color rojizo por las partículas de hierro que contiene. Las partes integrantes minerales que se hallan en mayor
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eczemas, Al contacto del agua se inflaman las mucosas, particularmente las conjuntivas, fenómeno que ha dado origen al nombre de la laguna, pues huacachina es palabra quechua que significa algo que hace llorar3. Cerca de Huacachina existe otra laguna de escasa extensión, pero de mayor concentración mineral. Tiene 62 metros de largo, 18.3 m de ancho y un metro de profundidad; es conocida con el nombre de pozo hediondo, a pesar de que el olor de gas sulfhídrico que en ella se percibe no es más fuerte que el de la laguna de Huacachina. El agua de esta
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Plaza de Armas de Ica; el agua de la laguna de La Huega es casi tan concentrada como la del Pozo Hediondo, mientras que el contenido de sal de las dos lagunas de Harovilca, es menor. Más agradable que las excursiones a caballo por desiertos de arena y la visita a misteriosos charcos de agua salada, fue un paseo que hicimos a las haciendas del valle, acompañados por un hombre que conocía muy bien los caminos y senderos; la persona a la que nos referimos había sido antes un próspero hacendado, y aunque
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altas, más fresca se presentaba la ubérrima vegetación, Por todas partes encontramos acequias, muy profundas a veces y cubiertas con ramadas por plantas trepadoras, arbustos y caña brava de altos tallos, de modo que sólo se escuchaba el ruido del agua en la oscura profundidad. En la cercanía de áridos desiertos y rocas desnudas, la música del murmullo de un río suena aún con más dulzura que en las praderas de nuestra patria. Cerca del medio día, pasamos por El Molino, una pequeña aldea cuyas casas estaban todavía en escombros desde
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nombre. El viejo Quintana, padre del actual dueño de esta magnífica propiedad fue como el escocés Enrique Swaine, de Cañete, un hombre de visión, activo y ahorrativo, que adquirió poco a poco, como fruto de su trabajo, cuatro grandes haciendas. Se interesó sobre todo por aquella parte del valle, que por estar situada en lo más alto, nunca carecería de agua. Sabía que debido al limitado caudal que arrastra el río, la riqueza en el valle de Ica consiste, más que en la extensión del terreno, por fértil que éste sea, en la posibilidad de regarlo suficientemente. En los veranos secos, no es posible
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Después de la muerte del padre de los Quintana, sus cuatro hijos se repartieron sus cuatro haciendas y el segundo hijo heredó Trapiche, la hacienda donde nos encontrábamos. Aquí desmontamos, y
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costosa e imposible sin gravar su propiedad con deudas. El trapiche era movido por una gran rueda hidráulica de hierro provista de palas de madera, montada sobre una roca, detrás de la casa. El zumo extraído era conducido
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la chancaca, sólo eran cobertizos de construcción rústica, cuyos techos descansaban sobre troncos de algarrobo. Con este objeto se eligen árboles que se bifurcan a cierta altura. En las horcas formadas de esta
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aguardiente preparado con el mosto completamente fermentado, pero es también mucho más caro, ya que exige una cantidad triple de mosto. Destilado el aguardiente, se llenan con él las curiosas botijas,
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recipiente no corresponde al peso prescrito. Las botijas terminadas se ponen a secar durante 4 semanas, y luego se cuecen. El horno consiste de una bóveda, en cuyo piso se hallan pequeñas cavidades para colocar en ellas las botijas. Entre
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