El cuerpo y la moda: Una visión sociológica

 

Jdimmn Nmtwhstcn

Nc lunrpd y ci ed`i ^mi vhshüm sdlhdcükhli

RIH@Ü\ LDMPNVPD\

?22? Oirlncdmi  

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Påtucd drhkhmic: Pfn Gisfhdmn` Od`y  Drhkhmicenmtn puochli`d nm hmkcès, nm ?222, pdr Rdchtd Rrnss, Lieorh`kn, _^, nm isdlhilhüm ldm Ocilawncc Ruochsfnrs, Ct`., Dxgdr`, _^ Pri`ullhüm `n Ichlhi \émlfnz Edccnt Luohnrti `n Eirhd Nsanmizh

© ?222 Jdimmn Nmtwhstcn © ?22? `n ci tri`ullhüm, Ichlhi \émlfnz Edccnt © ?22? `n td`is cis n`hlhdmns nm listnccimd, N`hlhdmns Rih`üs Hoèrhli, \. I., Eirhimd Luoå, 8? “ 262?9 Oirlncdmi X N`htdrhic Rih`üs, \IHLG, @ngnmsi, >88 “ Ounmds Ihrns fttp://www.pih`ds.lde   fttp://www.pih`ds.lde

H\OM: 60-086-? @npüshtd cnkic: O.?2.9;;-?22? Heprnsd nm Nspiùi “ Rrhmtn` hm \pihm

 

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 Nstn chord nsté `n`hli`d i ci  Enedrhi `n eh iounci [hmmhn Ldwfhk

 

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Ikri`nlhehnmtds Hmtrd`ullhüm  

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@hrhkhrsn ic lunrpd Pndråis sdorn ci ed`i y nc vnsthr Ed`i, hm`uenmtirhi hm`uenmtirhi y lieohd sdlhic Ed`i n h`nmth`i` Ed`i y kèmnrd Ed`i, i`drmd y snxuich`i` Ci hm`ustrhi `n ci ed`i

Ldmlcushüm Ohochdkrigåi

 

> 7 99 >9 8< 9, cd luic hcustri lüed nc lunrpd, hmlcusd shm i`drmds, pun`n snkuhr i`drmi`d d neonccnlh`d `n ickúm ed`d. Nc vnsthr ns um fnlfd oéshld `n ci vh`i sdlhic y nstd, snkúm cds imtrdpücdkds, ns ldeúm nm td`is cis lucturis fueimis: td`is cis pnrsdmis «vhstnm± nc lunrpd `n ickumi eimnri, yi sni ldm  prnm`is, tituijns, ldseèthlds u dtris gdreis `n phmtircd. Ns `nlhr, mhmkumi lucturi `nji nc lunrpd shm i`drmds, shmd qun cn iùi`n ickd, cd  

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neonccnln, cd rnsicti d cd `nldri. Nm lish td`is cis shtuilhdmns sdlhicns, sn rnquhnrn qun ipirnzlieds vnsth`ds, iumqun cd qun ldmsthtuyn ci «prnm`i± virån `n umi lucturi i dtri, punstd qun cd qun sn ldmsh`nri iprdphi`d `npnm`nré `n ci shtuilhüm d `n ci dlishüm. ^m trijn `n oiùd, pdr njnepcd, snråi hmi`nlui`d y nslim`icdsd piri hr i ldeprir, ehnmtris qun oiùirsn ldm iorhkd y ldm zipitds snråi iosur`d piri nc prdpüshtd `n mi`ir, pnrd quhzés iptd lded rnlcied puochlhtirhd piri rnldknr gdm`ds. Nc shkmhghli`d lucturic `nc vnsthr ldeprnm`n td`is cis shtuilhdmns, hmlcusd iqunccis nm cis qun sn pun`n hr `nsmu`d: fiy nstrhltis rnkcis y lü`hkds  piri luim`d pü`nen ipirnlnr `nsmu`ds. Iumqun cds lunrpds pun`im hr `nsmu`ds nm lhnrtds nspilhds, sdorn td`d nm ci nsgnri prhvi`i `nc fdkir, nm nc tnrrnmd sdlhic lish shneprn sn rnquhnrn qun um lunrpd viyi vnsth`d iprdphi`ienmtn, fisti nc pumtd `n qun ci dstnmtilhüm `n ci lirmn, d su nxpdshlhüm hmi`vnrth`i nm púochld, ns edcnsti, pnrturoi`dri y  pdtnmlhicenmtn  pdtnmlhice nmtn suovnrshvi. Cds lunrpds qun md sn ldmgdreim, cds qun sn sictim cis ldmvnmlhdmns `n su lucturi y md ccnvim cis prnm`is iprdphi`is, sdm ldmsh`nri`ds suovnrshvds nm cd qun rnspnlti i cds lü`hkds sdlhicns  oéshlds y ldrrnm nc rhnskd `n snr nxlcuh`ds, iedmnsti`ds d rh`hluchzi`d rh`hluchzi`ds. s. Nc strnianr qun sn quhti ci rdpi y nlfi i ldrrnr `nsmu`d pdr nc liepd `n lrhlant d pdr nc nsti`hd `n gútodc cciei ci itnmlhüm filhi nstis ldmvnmlhdmns nm su iltd `n rdepnrcis: `n fnlfd, sh umi eujnr filn cd ehsed, sn ldmsh`nri «umi hmgrillhüm `nc dr`nm púochld±, ehnmtris qun nc nxfhohlhdmhsti pun`n snr listhki`d pdr «nxpdshlhüm hm`nlnmtn± (Xdumk, 988>, pék. ;). Ci uohlui mituricnzi `nc vnsth`d pirnln ipumtir ic fnlfd `n qun ci rdpi d cds i`drmds sdm umd `n cds en`hds en`himtn cds luicns cds lunrpds sn vuncvnm sdlhicns y i`quhnrnm snmth`d n h`nmth`i`. Nc iltd hm`hvh`uic y euy vnsthrsn ns um iltd `n prnpirir nc lunrpd nc eum`dy sdlhic,pnrsdmic filnrcd`n iprdphi`d, ilnptiocn, `n fnlfd, fisti piri rnspntiocn  pdshocnenmtn  pdshocnenm tn hmlcusd `nsniocn. Wnsthrsn ns umi prélthli ldmstimtn, qun rnquhnrn ldmdlhehnmtd, ldmdlhehnmtd, tèlmhlis y fiohch`i`ns, `ns`n iprnm`nr i itirsn cds ldr`dmns `n cds zipitds y iordlfirsn cds odtdmns `n pnqunùd, fisti ldeprnm`nr cds ldcdrns, cis tnxturis y cis tncis y lüed ldeohmircis piri qun sn i`nlunm i munstrds lunrpds y vh`is. Ci rdpi ns ci gdrei nm qun cis  pnrsdmis iprnm`nm i vhvhr nm sus lunrpds y sn shnmtnm lüed`ds ldm nccds. Ic ccnvir cis prnm`is i`nlui`is y tnmnr nc enjdr ispnltd pdshocn, mds snmtheds ohnm ldm munstrds lunrpds y cd ehsed suln`n i ci hmvnrsi: ipirnlnr nm umi shtuilhüm shm ci rdpi i`nlui`i mds filn snmthr hmlüed`ds, gunri `n cukir y vucmnriocns. Nm cd qun i nstd rnspnlti, ci rdpi ns umi nxpnrhnmlhi åmthei `nc lunrpd y umi prnsnmtilhüm púochli `nc  

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ehsed. Edvnrsn nm ci grdmtnri nmtrn nc yd y cds `neés ns ci hmtnrgisn nmtrn nc hm`hvh`ud y nc eum`d sdlhic, nc pumtd `n nmlunmtrd nmtrn cd  prhvi`d y cd púochld. Nstn nmlunmtrd nmtrn ci nxpnrhnmlhi åmthei `nc lunrpd y nc éeohtd púochld, en`himtn ci nxpnrhnmlhi `n ci ed`i y nc vnsthr, ns nc tnei `n nstn lipåtucd. Pic ns ci gunrzi `nc lunrpd `nsmu`d qun, luim`d sn pnrehtn ipirnlnr iså, lded nm nc lisd `nc irtn, sn rhkn pdr ldmvnmlhdmns sdlhicns. Onrkunr (98;?) irkuenmti qun `nmtrd `nc irtn y `n cis rnprnsnmtilhdmns `n cds en`hds `n `hgushüm fiy umi `hgnrnmlhi nmtrn hr shm rdpi y nc `nsmu`d1 nstn úcthed sn rnghnrn ic ed`d nm qun cds lunrpds, hmlcusd shm i`drmds, nstém «vnsth`ds± pdr cis ldmvnmlhdmns sdlhicns y shstneis `n rnprnsnmtilhüm. Rnrmhdci (9882) tieohèm fi ldmsh`nri`d ci gdrei nm qun cis `hsthmtis lucturis, pirthlucirenmtn ci `n ci Krnlhi lcéshli y ci ju`ihli, nxprnsim y rnprnsnmtim ci `nsmu`nz. \nkúm Imm Fdccim`nr (9881 Nrhlasnm y Jdsnpf, 986>1 Psnècdm, 988?i, 988?o, 988;). Pd`ds nstds nstu`hds thnm`nm i `nsluh`ir nc lunrpd y cds shkmhghli`ds qun èstn ipdrti i ci hm`uenmtirhi. \hm neoirkd, nc vnsth`d `n td`ds cds `åis md sn pun`n snpirir `nc lunrpd vhvd, qun rnsphri y ic qun i`drmi. Ci hepdrtimlhi `nc lunrpd piri nc vnsth`d ns tic qun cds lisds nm cds qun ci prnm`i sn prnsnmti `hvdrlhi`i `nc lunrpd sdm nxtriùienmtn ichnmimtns. Nchziontf [hcsdm (986>) lipti ci hepdrtimlhi `nc lunrpd nm tèrehmds `n ldeprnmshüm `nc vnsthr y `nslrhon ci hmlded`h`i` qun umd shnmtn imtn ci prnsnmlhi `n cds eimhquåns `nc eusnd `n ci hm`uenmtirhi. Cd hmquhntimtn `nc nmlunmtrd prdln`n `nc «pdcvdrhnmtd shcnmlhd± y quhntu` `n cds trijns y `n umi snmsilhüm `n qun nc eusnd nsté i`drmirdm «fiohti`d±umi pdrvnz cdsnsis nspårhtus `n cds snrns fueimds vhvds luyds lunrpds prnm`is: Nc dosnrvi`dr sn eunvn ldm umi snmsilhüm `n pémhld lrnlhnmtn pdr nc eum`d `n cds eunrtds Q...U. Ic ldmtnepcir cds trijns qun tuvhnrdm umi nstrnlfi rncilhüm ldm snrns fueimds qun yilnm yi `ns`n filn eulfd nm sus tueois, nxpnrhenmtieds nc snmth`d `n cd hmnxpchliocn, puns cds trijns gdreim pirtn `n munstri nxhstnmlhi fisti tic pumtd qun ic edvnr h`nmth`i`ns, ldmknci`is nm su nxpdshlhüm nm cds eiusdcnds `n ci lucturi, hm`hlim ickd ldeprnm`h`d sücd i en`his, shmhnstrd, ienmizi`dr, ci itrdghi `nc lunrpd y ci nvimnslnmlhi `n ci vh`i ([hcsdm, 986>, pék. 9).

 

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Ic hkuic qun ci ldmlfi ioim`dmi`i `n luicquhnr lrhituri pirnln eunrti y vilåi, ci tdki d nc trijn umi vnz ioim`dmi`d pirnln shm vh`i, hmimhei`d y ichnmi`d `n su prdphntirhd. Nsti snmsilhüm `n ichnmilhüm `nc lunrpd ns iúm eés prdgum`i luim`d ci prnm`i d cds zipitds td`ivåi ccnvim cis eirlis `nc lunrpd, luim`d ci gdrei `n cds orizds d `n cds  phns sdm lcirienmtn vhshocns. \hm neoirkd, ci prnm`i ldth`himi shneprn ns ickd eés qun umi ldmlfi, ns um ispnltd åmthed `n ci nxpnrhnmlhi y ci  prnsnmtilhüm  prnsnmti lhüm `n ci h`nmth`i` y nsté tim nstrnlfienmtn nstrnlfienmtn vhmluci`i ldm ci h`nmth`i` `n nstds trns ‐prnm`i, lunrpd n h`nmth`i`‐ qun md sn  pnrlhonm pdr snpiri`d, shmd sheuctémnienmtn, lded umi tdtich`i`. Luim`d nc trijn ns snpiri`d `nc lunrpd-h`nmth`i`, lded nm nc lisd `nc eusnd `n ci hm`uenmtirhi, liptieds sücd um grikenmtd, umi hmstimtémni  pirlhic `nc vnsth`d, y pdr nm`n munstri ldeprnmshüm qun`i chehti`i. Nc eusnd `n ci hm`uenmtirhi ldmvhnrtn nc trijn nm um gnthlfn, nxpchli lüed sn giorhlü, cis tèlmhlis `n ldsturi, cds odr`i`ds y i`drmds nepcni`ds, iså lded ci ntipi fhstürhli nm ci qun gun usi`d. Cd qun md mds pun`n `nlhr ns lüed sn ccnvü nsn trijn, lüed sn edvåi luim`d nstioi nm um lunrpd, lüed sdmioi ic edvnrsn y lüed filåi snmthr i quhnm cd ccnvioi. \hm um lunrpd, um trijn lirnln `n pcnmhtu` y `n edvhehnmtd, md nsté ldepcntd (Nmtwhstcn y [hcsdm, 9886). ^mi pnrspnlthvi sdlhdcükhli sdorn nc vnsthr rnquhnrn ipirtirsn `nc ldmlnptd `n ci prnm`i lded dojntd y ldmtnepcir nm su cukir ci gdrei nm qun nc trijn nmlirmi umi ilthvh`i` y nsté hmtnkri`d nm cis rncilhdmns sdlhicns. Nc iméchshs `n [rhkft sdorn ci ldmgnllhüm (988?) rnldmdln ci gdrei nm qun nc vnsth`d hmgcuyn nm nc lunrpd y lüed ci prnm`i, `nchonri`ienmtn pnqunùi (lded cis eiccis d cds pimticdmns qun md ccnkim i cds tdohccds) prntnm`n rnsictir pirtns ldmlrntis `nc lunrpd. \hm neoirkd, knmnric, cds èsti nstu`hds thnmnm nm lunmti ci nm gdrei nm qun iltúisdorn sdorncincvnsthenmti lunrpd y md shkun shnm`d mnlnsirhd ldmsh`nrir ci prnm`i qun usieds td`ds cds `åis lded prélthli  pnrsdmhghli`i:  pnrsdmhghli` i: lüed iltúi nc vnsth`d nm um lunrpd gnmdeèmhl gnmdeèmhldd qun sn eunvn y `n què gdrei ns umi prélthli qun hepchli illhdmns hm`hvh`uicns `n prnstir itnmlhüm ic lunrpd ldm nc lunrpd. Nm nstn lipåtucd sn ldmsh`nrim cds rnlursds tnürhlds piri umi sdlhdcdkåi `nc vnsthr qun rnldmdzli nc shkmhghli`d `nc lunrpd. Rrdpdmkd ci h`ni `nc vnsthr lded umi prélthli ldrpdric ldmtnxtui`i i ed`d `n eirld tnürhld y entd`dcükhld piri ldeprnm`nr ci ldepcnji rncilhüm `hméehli nmtrn nc lunrpd, ci rdpi y ci lucturi. Nstn eirld rnldmdln qun cds lunrpds nstém ldmsthtuh`ds sdlhicenmtn, qun nstém shneprn uohli`ds nm ci lucturi y qun nc rnsucti`d `n cis prélthlis hm`hvh`uicns `hrhkh`is ic lunrpd, ns

 

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`nlhr, ci «vnsthenmti±, ns nc rnsucti`d `n «vnsthrsn± d `n «nstir vhsthèm`dsn±. Nxiehmir cis hmgcunmlhis nstrulturicns sdorn nc lunrpd vnsth`d rnquhnrn tnmnr nm lunmti cis rnstrhllhdmns fhstürhlis y sdlhicns `nc ehsed, chehtilhdmnss qun hmgcuynm sdorn nc iltd `n «vnsthrsn± nm um edenmtd `i`d. chehtilhdmn I`neés, ns mnlnsirhd qun nc lunrpd gåshld nstè ldmstrnùh`d pdr ci shtuilhüm sdlhic y, pdr nm`n, ns nc prd`ultd `nc ldmtnxtd sdlhic, tic lded fi `hlfd @dukcis (98;