A guide to Slovenia's four European Destinations of Excellence: the Soča Valley, Solčavsko Region, Kolpa River and I...
Idrij
•
Kp River
•
Sčvsk Regin
•
Sč V Vey ey
Soča Valley
EDEN Sl SloVENIa oVENIa 2012/13
Eurpen Destintins f Exceence
Kolpa River
Discver the hidden treasures f Slvenia!
Solčavsko Region Idrija
Enjy yur COMPLIMENTARY COMPLIMENTAR Y COPY f EDEN Slvenia
Contents
All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
ESSENTIAL
CITY
3
GUIDES
Contents Arriving & Getting Around
6
Planes, trains and driving in Slvenia
The Basics
7
Statistics, prices, plitics and mre
Online
Language
9
Essential Slvene fr visitrs
Idrija
10
The twn f mercury and lace
Kolpa River
20
A pristine waterway in a relaxing land
Mobile
Solčavsko Region
30
Breathtaking peaks and picture-perfect valleys Yu’ll feel like yu’re n tp f the wrld, while taking in the views f the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the valleys belw from the Panoramic Road in the Solčavsko region, photo by YMB
Print
Soča Valley
40
Amazing sights along the Emerald Trail
Map
50
Special Features
www.
pocket.com The crystal clear waters and amazing scenery of the Soča river make fr sme f the best kayaking, caneing, rafting and ther water sprt activities in Slvenia, pht by FA BoBo, Archive LTo Bvec
Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides
slovenia.inyourpocket.com
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
4
Cover story When selecting phts fr the cver f this guide, we were faced with sme difficult chices. one pht wuld nt d, because the regins are t diverse t be represented with a single image. And even chsing single images t represent individual destina tins prved t be a daunting task. These are the nes we finally settled n (clckwise frm tp left): ne f many mills and ther ethnlgical sig hts alng the calm waters f the Klpa river; the famous Kozjak Waterfall near Kobarid in the Soča Valley; one of the Klavže dams, the so-called 'pyramids of Idrija'; and Logarska Dolina, the most recognisable of the Solčavsko region's three valleys and one of Slovenia's mst breathtaking natural attractins.
CITY
GUIDES
Director Nik Slavnic M.Sc. nik.slavnic@inyurpcket.cm ©IQBAToR d... PrintedEurgraf Printed Eurgraf PublishedAugust Published August 2012 30,000 copies Maps Slvenian Turist Bard, www.slvenia.inf
EDEN Slovenia
Žlikrofi
18
The Viniška Republic
22
Kostelska Rakija
27
The Legend of Peter Klepec
28
Potočka Zijalka Cave
34
Handicraf ts of Solčavsko
39
Triglav National Park
41
The Walk of Peace
41
foreword
It’s n cincidence that the acrnym EDEN was chsen fr the Eurpean Destinatins f Excellence prject (even if it had t be finagled a little with the ‘n’ in Excellence used fr the last letter), as the fur Slvenian members f the grup all bast paradise-like qualities - unspilt nature, abundant wildlife, pristine rivers and a certain remteness frm the utside wrld. The first t gain admissin t the prestigius club was the majestic Soča Valley in 2008, which is centred around the turquoise waters of the Soča river as its path cuts thrugh the rcky muntains in the far nrtheast f Slvenia, cmprising a sectin f the s-called Emerald Trail. on the ppsite side f the cuntry in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, the Solčavsko region next got the nod in 2009. Famed for its phtgenic valleys and breathtaking views, the regin is perhaps mre deserving f the label ‘sublime’ than anywhere else in the country. In 2010, the meandering Kolpa River ften referred t as Slvenia’s lngest cast - was awarded with the distinctin f excellence, nt nly fr the attractins f the river itself, but als fr the beauty and cultural heritage f the land thrugh which it flws. And last but nt least, the twn f Idrija became the latest Slvenian EDEN member in 2011. Most known (somewhat incongruously) for its mercury mine and traditinal lacemaking, the twn has actually develped a well-runded turism ffer and is arguably the mst accessible f the fur destinatins. T finish n a persnal nte, we had an abslute pleasure travelling extensively in all the regins prir t and while researching this guide, and hpe that the genuine fndness and heartfelt enthusiasm we have fr each f them is readily apparent in the pages belw.
ESSENTIAL
17
2012/13
Foreword
EDEN In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slvenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 slvenia@inyurpcket.cm www.inyurpcket.cm
Idrija Lace
The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland
Project EDEN
Estonia Russia
Latvia
Ireland
Lithuania Belarus Netherlands
Poland
Germany Belgium Czech Republic
Ukraine
Austria Switzerland
Romania Slovenia Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo
Italy
FYR Macedonia
Albania Greece
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets f Vilnius f Vilnius,, Lithuania. Since then,
we have grwn t becme the largest publisher f lcal ly prduced city guides i n Eurpe. We nw cver mre than 75 cities acrss the cntinent (with Ghent, Ghent, Belgium, the latest city t be pocketed ) and the number f In Your Pocket guides published each year is appraching an million. amazing five amazing five million. Always an innvative publish er, we have just launched a new versin f ur iPhone app, app, which can be dwnladed fr free frm the AppStore . Search fr ‚IYP Guides’ by name. T keep up t date with all that’s new at In Your Pock- et, like us n Facebook(facebk.cm/inyurpcket) Facebook (facebk.cm/inyurpcket) r fllw us n Twitter (twitter.cm/inyurpcket).
Editorial Editor Yuri Barrn Writers Yuri Barrn, Will Dunn Project Manager Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Cover photos (clckwise frm tp left) Dunja Wedam, Matevž Lenarčič, Samo Trebižan, Tomo Jeseničnik Photos Slvenian Turist Bard, Turist Infrmatin Centres in Idrija, Črnomelj, Solčava and Bovec, Branka Jovanović, Yuri Barron Special thanks to Jana Kkelj, Erika Hvala, Mjca ošep, Mark Slapnik, Gregor Jevšček, Lidija Ivanšek, Peter Črnič, Janez Weiss, Tina Gerkman and the Slvenian Turist Bard
Copyright notice Text and phts cpyri ght IQBAToR d... Maps cpyright cartgrapher. All rights reserved. N part f this publicatin may be reprduced in any frm, except brief extracts fr the purpse f review, withut written permissin frm the publisher and cpyright wner. The brand name In Yur Pcket is used under license frm UAB In Yur Pcket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note The editrial cntent f In Yur Pcket guides is independent frm paid-fr advertising. Spnsred listings are clearly marked as such. We welcme all readers’ cmments and suggestins. We have made every effrt t ensure the accuracy f the infrmatin at the time f ging t press and assume n respnsibility fr changes and errrs.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The “Eurpean Destinatins f ExcelleNce” (EDEN) areas, aquatic turism and regeneratin f prject, was started by the Eurpean Cmmissin in physical sites have been the main EDEN themes. accrdance with Eurpean turism plicy guidelines. Slvenia decided t participate in the EDEN The aim f the prject is t prmte sustainable prject in rder t identify and reward the mst turism develpment mdels acrss the Eurpean sustainable and green destinati ns that fllw the Unin; that is t draw attentin t the value, principles f envirnmental, scially respnsible diversity and shared characteristics f Eurpean and cultural sustainability, thus stimulating their turist destinatins and t prmte destinatins further de velpment. where ecnmic grwth is pursued in such a way as t ensure scial, cultural and envirnmental Visit ur EDEN destinatins and discver the hidden treasures f Slvenia! sustainability. The prject is based n natinal cmpetitins that take place every year and result in the selectin Mre infrmatin: www.slvenia.inf/eden f a turist “destinatin f excellence” fr each Eurpe: www.edenineurpe.eu. participating cuntry. This Eurpean quest fr excellence in turism is develped arund an annual theme, chsen by the This publication is financed Cmmissin tgether with the relevant natinal under the Competitiveness and turism bdies. This theme functins as a leitmtif: Innovation Framework Programme (CIP) s far, rural turism, intangible heritage, prtected
Press Box “Detailed, carefully researched guides.”
Daily Mail
“Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.”
The Guardian
“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” guidebooks.”
The New York Times
“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or down- loadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on bo th well- known and more off beat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.”
The Independent
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destina- tion rather than jaded impressions from world- weary professional travel writers.”
The Irish Times
“With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks.”
The Times
“In Your Pocket guides are each written by an Eng- lish language writer who lives locally. All informa- tion is also available on the publisher’s website.”
SueddeutscheZeitung
2012/13
5
4
Foreword
foreword
It’s n cincidence that the acrnym EDEN was chsen fr the Eurpean Destinatins f Excellence prject (even if it had t be finagled a little with the ‘n’ in Excellence used fr the last letter), as the fur Slvenian members f the grup all bast paradise-like qualities - unspilt nature, abundant wildlife, pristine rivers and a certain remteness frm the utside wrld. The first t gain admissin t the prestigius club was the majestic Soča Valley in 2008, which is centred around the turquoise waters of the Soča river as its path cuts thrugh the rcky muntains in the far nrtheast f Slvenia, cmprising a sectin f the s-called Emerald Trail. on the ppsite side f the cuntry in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, the Solčavsko region next got the nod in 2009. Famed for its phtgenic valleys and breathtaking views, the regin is perhaps mre deserving f the label ‘sublime’ than anywhere else in the country. In 2010, the meandering Kolpa River ften referred t as Slvenia’s lngest cast - was awarded with the distinctin f excellence, nt nly fr the attractins f the river itself, but als fr the beauty and cultural heritage f the land thrugh which it flws. And last but nt least, the twn f Idrija became the latest Slvenian EDEN member in 2011. Most known (somewhat incongruously) for its mercury mine and traditinal lacemaking, the twn has actually develped a well-runded turism ffer and is arguably the mst accessible f the fur destinatins. T finish n a persnal nte, we had an abslute pleasure travelling extensively in all the regins prir t and while researching this guide, and hpe that the genuine fndness and heartfelt enthusiasm we have fr each f them is readily apparent in the pages belw.
Cover story When selecting phts fr the cver f this guide, we were faced with sme difficult chices. one pht wuld nt d, because the regins are t diverse t be represented with a single image. And even chsing single images t represent individual destina tins prved t be a daunting task. These are the nes we finally settled n (clckwise frm tp left): ne f many mills and ther ethnlgical sig hts alng the calm waters f the Klpa river; the famous Kozjak Waterfall near Kobarid in the Soča Valley; one of the Klavže dams, the so-called 'pyramids of Idrija'; and Logarska Dolina, the most recognisable of the Solčavsko region's three valleys and one of Slovenia's mst breathtaking natural attractins.
ESSENTIAL
CITY
GUIDES
EDEN In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slvenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 slvenia@inyurpcket.cm www.inyurpcket.cm Director Nik Slavnic M.Sc. nik.slavnic@inyurpcket.cm ©IQBAToR d... PrintedEurgraf Printed Eurgraf PublishedAugust Published August 2012 30,000 copies Maps Slvenian Turist Bard, www.slvenia.inf
The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland
Project EDEN
Estonia Russia
Latvia
Ireland
Lithuania Belarus Netherlands
Poland
Germany Belgium Czech Republic
Ukraine
Austria Switzerland
Romania Slovenia Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo
Italy
FYR Macedonia
Albania Greece
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets f Vilnius f Vilnius,, Lithuania. Since then,
we have grwn t becme the largest publisher f lcal ly prduced city guides i n Eurpe. We nw cver mre than 75 cities acrss the cntinent (with Ghent, Ghent, Belgium, the latest city t be pocketed ) and the number f In Your Pocket guides published each year is appraching an million. amazing five amazing five million. Always an innvative publish er, we have just launched a new versin f ur iPhone app, app, which can be dwnladed fr free frm the AppStore . Search fr ‚IYP Guides’ by name. T keep up t date with all that’s new at In Your Pock- et, like us n Facebook(facebk.cm/inyurpcket) Facebook (facebk.cm/inyurpcket) r fllw us n Twitter (twitter.cm/inyurpcket).
Editorial Editor Yuri Barrn Writers Yuri Barrn, Will Dunn Project Manager Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Cover photos (clckwise frm tp left) Dunja Wedam, Matevž Lenarčič, Samo Trebižan, Tomo Jeseničnik Photos Slvenian Turist Bard, Turist Infrmatin Centres in Idrija, Črnomelj, Solčava and Bovec, Branka Jovanović, Yuri Barron Special thanks to Jana Kkelj, Erika Hvala, Mjca ošep, Mark Slapnik, Gregor Jevšček, Lidija Ivanšek, Peter Črnič, Janez Weiss, Tina Gerkman and the Slvenian Turist Bard
Copyright notice Text and phts cpyri ght IQBAToR d... Maps cpyright cartgrapher. All rights reserved. N part f this publicatin may be reprduced in any frm, except brief extracts fr the purpse f review, withut written permissin frm the publisher and cpyright wner. The brand name In Yur Pcket is used under license frm UAB In Yur Pcket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note The editrial cntent f In Yur Pcket guides is independent frm paid-fr advertising. Spnsred listings are clearly marked as such. We welcme all readers’ cmments and suggestins. We have made every effrt t ensure the accuracy f the infrmatin at the time f ging t press and assume n respnsibility fr changes and errrs.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
6
The “Eurpean Destinatins f ExcelleNce” (EDEN) areas, aquatic turism and regeneratin f prject, was started by the Eurpean Cmmissin in physical sites have been the main EDEN themes. accrdance with Eurpean turism plicy guidelines. Slvenia decided t participate in the EDEN The aim f the prject is t prmte sustainable prject in rder t identify and reward the mst turism develpment mdels acrss the Eurpean sustainable and green destinati ns that fllw the Unin; that is t draw attentin t the value, principles f envirnmental, scially respnsible diversity and shared characteristics f Eurpean and cultural sustainability, thus stimulating their turist destinatins and t prmte destinatins further de velpment. where ecnmic grwth is pursued in such a way as t ensure scial, cultural and envirnmental Visit ur EDEN destinatins and discver the hidden treasures f Slvenia! sustainability. The prject is based n natinal cmpetitins that take place every year and result in the selectin Mre infrmatin: www.slvenia.inf/eden f a turist “destinatin f excellence” fr each Eurpe: www.edenineurpe.eu. participating cuntry. This Eurpean quest fr excellence in turism is develped arund an annual theme, chsen by the This publication is financed Cmmissin tgether with the relevant natinal under the Competitiveness and turism bdies. This theme functins as a leitmtif: Innovation Framework Programme (CIP) s far, rural turism, intangible heritage, prtected
Press Box “Detailed, carefully researched guides.”
Daily Mail
“Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.”
The Guardian
“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” guidebooks.”
The New York Times
“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or down- loadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on bo th well- known and more off beat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.”
“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destina- tion rather than jaded impressions from world- weary professional travel writers.”
The Irish Times
“With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks.”
The Times
“In Your Pocket guides are each written by an Eng- lish language writer who lives locally. All informa- tion is also available on the publisher’s website.”
SueddeutscheZeitung
The Independent
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Arriving & getting Around Arriving in Slveni Slveniaa
Getting t EDEN Slvenia’s EDEN destinatins are nt the easiest places t reach nce yu’ve arrived in the cuntry, but this is f curse relative in a cuntry f Slvenia’s size. Aside frm Idrija and the upper part f the Klpa river, which are bth arund an hur r s drive frm Ljubljana, yu can expect t spend between an hur and a half and tw hurs in a car, and cnsiderably lnger n a bus, while train rutes manage t skirt the regins almost entirely other than long journeys to Most na Soči in the south of the Soča Valley and Črnomelj/Metlika along the lower Kolpa river. However, as the Soča Val ley, Solčavsko region and Kolpa river are all found on Slvenia’s brders, they may be mre easily reached if visitrs arrive directly frm Italy, Austria r Cratia respectively. This als means that bking flights t an airprt in a neighburing cuntry may nt nly be the cheapest ptin, but als the mst cnvenient. In any event, the extra effrt it takes t get t the EDEN destinatins will be well wrth it nce yu’re there. Mre specific transprt infrmatin is included in each f the destinatin chapters.
Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive Vinjeta www.dars. si. Slvenia requires all mtr vehicles travelling n Slvenian highways t have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system exists in lieu f tlls, and the vinjeta can be easily btained at nearly all gas statins and kisks. Yearly/mnthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 fr cars and yearly/halfyearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Als be aware that brder p lice will likely nt remind yu t purchase a vinjeta when entering the cuntry, but are highly likely t issue yu a steep fine when leaving if yu’ve failed t d s. Fr mre inf check check www.dars.si.
EDEN Slovenia
Basics
7
Climate
Rules of the Road
Lcated at ne f the true gegraphical crssrads in Eurpe, Slvenia is easily reached by bth rad and rail frm m re r l ess a ll di recti ns, e speci all y if c rssi ng ne f the nw invisible internal EU brders f the neighburing Schengen cuntries (f which Cratia is nt yet a member thugh). Internatinal bus transprt is nwhere near as frequent as trains, but there are usually at least weekly direct cnnectins t many ma jr c itie s in C entr al Eu rpe, the Ba lkan s and Scan dina via. Of course this being the 21st century, most visitors pt t fly, and Ljubljana’s Brnik airprt has direct flights t up t tw dzen cities in Eurpe depending n the seasn, with lng-haul flights mst ften cnnecting in Germany and Austria. In recent years budget flights have becme ever mre cmmn, and while Ljubljana nly has a cuple f budget ptins, the airprts in Trieste, Venice and t a lesser extent Klagenfurt are well-served by budget peratrs and ften represent the cheapest methd f getting t Slvenia even after fact rin g in t rans fer cs ts.
5
The speed limit is 50km/hr in buil t-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbul b, first aid kit and, in winter, either snw chains r winter tyres. The alchl limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/r driving license pints incurred whilst in Slvenia will theretically fllw yu hme. The traffic infrmatin centre has rad webcams and maps f current traffic prblems at www.prmet.si.
Temperature, °C
Rainfall, mm
30
150
20
120
10
90
0
60
-10 -20 J
Buses
F M A M J
J
A S O N D
30
Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana. si, www.ap-ljubljana.si.
such either directly in their descriptins r with the relevant symbl frm the symbl key. Further infrmatin is available frm the Natinal Cuncil f Disabled Peple’s organisa tin f Slvenia (r NSIoS by it’s Slvene acrnym), by phne at +386 (0)4 30 36 46 or on the web at www.nsios.si.
Car Rental
Drinking
Avis D-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 430 80 10, lji@
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannt be bught in stres.
Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg
avis.si, www.avis.si. With ffices all ver Slvenia (including Brnik Airprt, Ljubljana, Maribr and Kper) the frien dly flks at Avis can help yu find the mst cnvenient car rental slutin fr yur hliday, business trip r weekend away. It’s always a gd idea t enquire abut special weekend rates, as they can be extremely easy n the wallet. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (0)4 23 65 000, open 08:0022:00. Hertz D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47,
[email protected], www.hertz.si. one f the mst knwn and trusted names in car rentals has a ttal f eight lcatins acrss Slvenia, including an ffice in the centre f Ljubljana within easy walking distance f mst htels, as well as at the airprts in Ljubljana and Portorož. They also conveniently offer free delivery and collection service within 20km of any office during working working hurs. Their large fleet f new cars has everything frm the incredibly fuel-efficient Vlkswagen Up! t larger vans and luxury mdels - there are even sme with autmatic transmissins fr Americans. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Budget Grand Hotel Union, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 421 7340,
[email protected]. Dollar & Thrifty Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 236 5750,
[email protected]. Europcar Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 23 67 990/+386 (0)31 382 051,
[email protected], europcar.si. Sixt Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 50/+386 (0)51 601 804, ljubljana.dt@ sixt-slovenia.si, www.sixt.si.
Mney
Set along the banks of the Rinža river, the Church of St Jernej dominates the city centrein Kočevje, photo by YMB
Disabled traveller travellerss Slvenia is increasingly well-adapted fr the disabled. Venues that are disabled accessible have been nted as
Basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slvenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr)
Airprt Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)
Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20,
[email protected], www.ljuairport.si. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Trains Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) KolodKolod-
vorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, potnik.
[email protected], www.slo-zeleznice.si. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 eurs. The Slvenian side f the eur cins are decrated with amng ther things strks, Munt Triglav, Lippizaner hrses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.
Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.25 US$ = 0.80 UK£ = 1.20 CHF =7.95 CNY = 100 ¥ = 40 руб (26 July 2012)
Market values Cmpared t the rest f Western and Central Eurpe, prices in Slvenia are still fairly cmpetitive despite nticeable increases since the intrductin f the Eur in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product Pr i c e McDnald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice f pizza € 1.80 Slice f burek € 2.00 Cup f cffee € 1.10 Bttle f name brand vdka € 12.50 Decent bttle f lcal wine € 3.50 Bttle f lcal beer in a shp € 1.10 Pint f beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack f cigarettes € 2.90 Mvie ticket € 4.90 Pstcard € 0.30 Litre f petrl € 1.49 Speeding ticket up to €2000 2012/13
6
Arriving & getting Around Arriving in Slveni Slveniaa
Getting t EDEN Slvenia’s EDEN destinatins are nt the easiest places t reach nce yu’ve arrived in the cuntry, but this is f curse relative in a cuntry f Slvenia’s size. Aside frm Idrija and the upper part f the Klpa river, which are bth arund an hur r s drive frm Ljubljana, yu can expect t spend between an hur and a half and tw hurs in a car, and cnsiderably lnger n a bus, while train rutes manage t skirt the regins almost entirely other than long journeys to Most na Soči in the south of the Soča Valley and Črnomelj/Metlika along the lower Kolpa river. However, as the Soča Val ley, Solčavsko region and Kolpa river are all found on Slvenia’s brders, they may be mre easily reached if visitrs arrive directly frm Italy, Austria r Cratia respectively. This als means that bking flights t an airprt in a neighburing cuntry may nt nly be the cheapest ptin, but als the mst cnvenient. In any event, the extra effrt it takes t get t the EDEN destinatins will be well wrth it nce yu’re there. Mre specific transprt infrmatin is included in each f the destinatin chapters.
Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive Vinjeta www.dars. si. Slvenia requires all mtr vehicles travelling n Slvenian highways t have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system exists in lieu f tlls, and the vinjeta can be easily btained at nearly all gas statins and kisks. Yearly/mnthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 fr cars and yearly/halfyearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Als be aware that brder p lice will likely nt remind yu t purchase a vinjeta when entering the cuntry, but are highly likely t issue yu a steep fine when leaving if yu’ve failed t d s. Fr mre inf check check www.dars.si.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in buil t-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbul b, first aid kit and, in winter, either snw chains r winter tyres. The alchl limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/r driving license pints incurred whilst in Slvenia will theretically fllw yu hme. The traffic infrmatin centre has rad webcams and maps f current traffic prblems at www.prmet.si.
Temperature, °C
-20 J
F M A M J
J
A S O N D
30
Car Rental
Drinking
Avis D-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 430 80 10, lji@
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannt be bught in stres.
avis.si, www.avis.si. With ffices all ver Slvenia (including Brnik Airprt, Ljubljana, Maribr and Kper) the frien dly flks at Avis can help yu find the mst cnvenient car rental slutin fr yur hliday, business trip r weekend away. It’s always a gd idea t enquire abut special weekend rates, as they can be extremely easy n the wallet. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (0)4 23 65 000, open 08:0022:00. Hertz D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47,
[email protected], www.hertz.si. one f the mst knwn and trusted names in car rentals has a ttal f eight lcatins acrss Slvenia, including an ffice in the centre f Ljubljana within easy walking distance f mst htels, as well as at the airprts in Ljubljana and Portorož. They also conveniently offer free delivery and collection service within 20km of any office during working working hurs. Their large fleet f new cars has everything frm the incredibly fuel-efficient Vlkswagen Up! t larger vans and luxury mdels - there are even sme with autmatic transmissins fr Americans. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Budget Grand Hotel Union, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 421 7340,
[email protected]. Dollar & Thrifty Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 236 5750,
[email protected]. Europcar Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 23 67 990/+386 (0)31 382 051,
[email protected], europcar.si. Sixt Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 50/+386 (0)51 601 804, ljubljana.dt@ sixt-slovenia.si, www.sixt.si.
Mney
Set along the banks of the Rinža river, the Church of St Jernej dominates the city centrein Kočevje, photo by YMB
Disabled traveller travellerss Slvenia is increasingly well-adapted fr the disabled. Venues that are disabled accessible have been nted as
Basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slvenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr)
Airprt Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)
Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20,
[email protected], www.ljuairport.si. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Trains Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) KolodKolod-
vorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, potnik.
[email protected], www.slo-zeleznice.si. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 eurs. The Slvenian side f the eur cins are decrated with amng ther things strks, Munt Triglav, Lippizaner hrses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.
Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.25 US$ = 0.80 UK£ = 1.20 CHF =7.95 CNY = 100 ¥ = 40 руб (26 July 2012)
Market values Cmpared t the rest f Western and Central Eurpe, prices in Slvenia are still fairly cmpetitive despite nticeable increases since the intrductin f the Eur in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product Pr i c e McDnald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice f pizza € 1.80 Slice f burek € 2.00 Cup f cffee € 1.10 Bttle f name brand vdka € 12.50 Decent bttle f lcal wine € 3.50 Bttle f lcal beer in a shp € 1.10 Pint f beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack f cigarettes € 2.90 Mvie ticket € 4.90 Pstcard € 0.30 Litre f petrl € 1.49 Speeding ticket up to €2000
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Language
P Air cnditining
W Wi-Fi cnnectin
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
A Credit cards accepted
H Cnference facilities
U Facilities fr the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R Internet
J City centre lcatin
G Nn-smking rms
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pl
S Takeaway
E Live music
B outdr Seating
Smking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smking frm public indr spaces except in special smking areas in ffices, htels and bars.
Tipping In Slvenia tipping is the exceptin rather than the rule, althugh runding up taxi fares and café bills is becming more common, while leaving 10% or more in restaurants with gd service always appreciated.
Visas Many freigners simply need a passprt r ID card t enter Slvenia. Thse requiring a visa will be able t travel freely between the Schengen-agreement cuntries fr a limited amount of time, usuall y 90 days. Always check these details with a Slvenian embassy r cnsulate. Further infrmatin can be fund at www.mzz.gv.si.
Tax free shopping
EDEN Slovenia
60
-10
such either directly in their descriptins r with the relevant symbl frm the symbl key. Further infrmatin is available frm the Natinal Cuncil f Disabled Peple’s organisa tin f Slvenia (r NSIoS by it’s Slvene acrnym), by phne at +386 (0)4 30 36 46 or on the web at www.nsios.si.
1 & 2 January New Year 8 February Slvenian Day f Culture March- April Easter 7th Sunday after Easter Pentecst 27 April Uprising Day 1 & 2 May Labur Day 25 June Natinal Day 15 August Assumptin 31 October Refrmatin Day 1 November All Suls’ Day 25 December Christmas 26 December Independence Day
The entrance t Anthny’s Shaft in Idrija with the Rman god Mercury and the affirmation Srečno - which literally translates as ‘gd luck’, but desn’t sund quite s minus in Slvene, pht by YMB
90
0
Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana. si, www.ap-ljubljana.si.
Symbol key
Althugh Slvenians are traditinally Rman Cathlic, a recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest f them believing in ‘smething’.
120
10
Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg
National Holidays
Religin
150
20
Basics
The Republic f Slvenia is a parliamentary demcracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007, and will likely run for re-election at the end of 2012. Early parliamentary elections in December 2011 brought the rather divisive frmer prime minist er J anez Janša and his cnser vative party back t pwer.
Rainfall, mm
30
Buses
EDEN Slovenia
Plitics
7
Climate
Rules of the Road
Lcated at ne f the true gegraphical crssrads in Eurpe, Slvenia is easily reached by bth rad and rail frm m re r l ess a ll di recti ns, e speci all y if c rssi ng ne f the nw invisible internal EU brders f the neighburing Schengen cuntries (f which Cratia is nt yet a member thugh). Internatinal bus transprt is nwhere near as frequent as trains, but there are usually at least weekly direct cnnectins t many ma jr c itie s in C entr al Eu rpe, the Ba lkan s and Scan dina via. Of course this being the 21st century, most visitors pt t fly, and Ljubljana’s Brnik airprt has direct flights t up t tw dzen cities in Eurpe depending n the seasn, with lng-haul flights mst ften cnnecting in Germany and Austria. In recent years budget flights have becme ever mre cmmn, and while Ljubljana nly has a cuple f budget ptins, the airprts in Trieste, Venice and t a lesser extent Klagenfurt are well-served by budget peratrs and ften represent the cheapest methd f getting t Slvenia even after fact rin g in t rans fer cs ts.
8
Basics
If yu’re a resident f a nn-EU member state, yu’re eligible t take advantage f tax free shpping while visiting Slvenia. If you spend over €50 at any shop displaying the Glbal Refund ‘Tax Free’ lg, they can issue yu with a special Refund Cheque when yu pay. At shps that dn’t fficially participate in the prgram, yu’ll need t ask fr a special invice fr frei gner s - yu can stil l get the refu nd, it jus t invlves a little mre red tape. When yu leave the EU just shw the item yu purchased and relevant paperwrk t a custms fficial, wh will give yu the necessary stamps. Yu can then receive cash r credit at any f the many Glbal Refund offices arund the wrld - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airprt this i s lcated at the news agents in the check-in area. Hwever, befre making any extravagant purchases assuming yu’ll receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check yur departure in f, especially if yu have a layver in anther EU cuntry n yur way hme. Nt all custms offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length f yur layver, it may be next t impssible t get the fficial stamps yu need.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is clsely related t Serbian and Cratian, and als shares many wrds with ther Slavic languages. Althugh sme wrds and letter cmbinatins may appear unprnunceable at first glance, Slvene is actually a fairly phnetic language with very few irregularities - althugh the letters L and V can d sme strange things depending n their psitin in a wrd. Luckily, mst Slvenes speak either English, Italian r German embarrassingly well, s chances are yu wn’t have t wrry abut any cmmunicatin prblems. Hwever, as with mst cuntries, attempting t use a little bit f the lcal language can g a lng way twards winning ver yur hsts. Even the dd ‘hvala’ and ‘prsim’ wn’t g unnticed. Pronunciation c - as in pizza e - as in egg g - as in g j - like y in ygurt
č - like c in cello š - like sh in ship ž - like s in pleasure
Basics D yu speak English? - Gvrite an glešk (Gh-vh- REE-tay Ahn-GLESH-k) ? I dn’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-Zoo-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Gd Mrning - Dbr Jutr (DoH-brh Yoo- trh) Gd Day - Dber Dan (DoH-behr Dahn) Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes - Ja (Yah) N - Ne (Nay) Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Thank yu - Hvala (HVAL-a) Please - Prsim (PRo-seem) Excuse me/Srry – oprstite (oh-PRoS-tee-tay) Pardn me (asking fr help) – Prsim (pr-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am frm... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Mnday - pnedeljek (PoH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday - trek (ToR-ek) Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday - četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday - petek (peh-tuck) Saturday - sbta (sh-BoH-tah) Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Wh? - Kd?(K-dh) What? - Kaj?(Kai) Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay) When? - Kdaj (K-dai) Hw much des i t cst? - Klik stane (KoH-lee-kh STAH-neh)? Places Cratia - Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka) England - An glija (Ahn-glee-yah) (Ahn-glee-yah) Germany - Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Hungary - Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah) Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah) Netherlands - Nizzemska (NEE-z-zem-skah) Sctland - Šktska (Shkt-skah) Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Vienna - Dunaj (D-nigh) Signs open - dprt (ohd-PURT-h) Clsed - zaprt (Zah- PURT-h) eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Learn Slovene
Learn cmmnly-used Slvene wrds and phrases n ur website - and frm a British guy n less! Entrance - vhd (-hd) Exit - izhd (eez-hd) Push – rini (ree-nee) Pull – vleci (-LETS-ee) Travelling Bus - avtbus (oW-th-bze) Train - vlak (v-LoCK) I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ... one ticket, please - En vstpnic, prsim (Eh-nh -stpNEETZ-h pr- SEEM) Times Nw - zdaj (z-dai) Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Tday - danes (dahn-es) Tmrrw - jutri (y-tree) Yesterday - včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the mrning - zjutraj (z-Yoo-try) In the afternn - ppldne (ph-PoLD-neh) (ph-PoLD-neh) In the evening - zvečer (z-veh-chehr) At night - ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) Bar Talk one cffee, please - En kav prsim (EH-nh KAH-vh pr-SEEM) one beer, please - (Name f beer), prsim (pr-SEEM) Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! What’s ging n? - Kaj dgaja? (kai Do-ga-ya) Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo) You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh h-chee) Yu’re ht - Si lepa (see LAY-pa) Where are yu frm? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see) Can I have yur number?- Lahk dbim tvj telefnsk številk? (Law-kh dh-BEEM t-vy-y teh-leh-FoHN-sk shteh-VEEL-kh)? See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)
Street smarts Slvenians usually leave ut the wrd fr street in cnversatin, s while yur destinatin may fficially be called ‘Pljanska ulica’, yu can survive by just saying Pljanska Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses- tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sa h) Street
2012/13
9
8
Language
Basics
National Holidays
Symbol key
1 & 2 January New Year 8 February Slvenian Day f Culture March- April Easter 7th Sunday after Easter Pentecst 27 April Uprising Day 1 & 2 May Labur Day 25 June Natinal Day 15 August Assumptin 31 October Refrmatin Day 1 November All Suls’ Day 25 December Christmas 26 December Independence Day
P Air cnditining
W Wi-Fi cnnectin
6 Animal friendly
T Child friendly
A Credit cards accepted
H Cnference facilities
Plitics The Republic f Slvenia is a parliamentary demcracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007, and will likely run for re-election at the end of 2012. Early parliamentary elections in December 2011 brought the rather divisive frmer prime minist er J anez Janša and his cnser vative party back t pwer.
Religin Althugh Slvenians are traditinally Rman Cathlic, a recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest f them believing in ‘smething’.
U Facilities fr the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R Internet
J City centre lcatin
G Nn-smking rms
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pl
S Takeaway
E Live music
B outdr Seating
Smking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smking frm public indr spaces except in special smking areas in ffices, htels and bars.
Tipping In Slvenia tipping is the exceptin rather than the rule, althugh runding up taxi fares and café bills is becming more common, while leaving 10% or more in restaurants with gd service always appreciated.
Visas Many freigners simply need a passprt r ID card t enter Slvenia. Thse requiring a visa will be able t travel freely between the Schengen-agreement cuntries fr a limited amount of time, usuall y 90 days. Always check these details with a Slvenian embassy r cnsulate. Further infrmatin can be fund at www.mzz.gv.si.
Tax free shopping
The entrance t Anthny’s Shaft in Idrija with the Rman god Mercury and the affirmation Srečno - which literally translates as ‘gd luck’, but desn’t sund quite s minus in Slvene, pht by YMB EDEN Slovenia
10
If yu’re a resident f a nn-EU member state, yu’re eligible t take advantage f tax free shpping while visiting Slvenia. If you spend over €50 at any shop displaying the Glbal Refund ‘Tax Free’ lg, they can issue yu with a special Refund Cheque when yu pay. At shps that dn’t fficially participate in the prgram, yu’ll need t ask fr a special invice fr frei gner s - yu can stil l get the refu nd, it jus t invlves a little mre red tape. When yu leave the EU just shw the item yu purchased and relevant paperwrk t a custms fficial, wh will give yu the necessary stamps. Yu can then receive cash r credit at any f the many Glbal Refund offices arund the wrld - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airprt this i s lcated at the news agents in the check-in area. Hwever, befre making any extravagant purchases assuming yu’ll receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check yur departure in f, especially if yu have a layver in anther EU cuntry n yur way hme. Nt all custms offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length f yur layver, it may be next t impssible t get the fficial stamps yu need.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is clsely related t Serbian and Cratian, and als shares many wrds with ther Slavic languages. Althugh sme wrds and letter cmbinatins may appear unprnunceable at first glance, Slvene is actually a fairly phnetic language with very few irregularities - althugh the letters L and V can d sme strange things depending n their psitin in a wrd. Luckily, mst Slvenes speak either English, Italian r German embarrassingly well, s chances are yu wn’t have t wrry abut any cmmunicatin prblems. Hwever, as with mst cuntries, attempting t use a little bit f the lcal language can g a lng way twards winning ver yur hsts. Even the dd ‘hvala’ and ‘prsim’ wn’t g unnticed. Pronunciation c - as in pizza e - as in egg g - as in g j - like y in ygurt
č - like c in cello š - like sh in ship ž - like s in pleasure
Basics D yu speak English? - Gvrite an glešk (Gh-vh- REE-tay Ahn-GLESH-k) ? I dn’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-Zoo-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Gd Mrning - Dbr Jutr (DoH-brh Yoo- trh) Gd Day - Dber Dan (DoH-behr Dahn) Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes - Ja (Yah) N - Ne (Nay) Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Thank yu - Hvala (HVAL-a) Please - Prsim (PRo-seem) Excuse me/Srry – oprstite (oh-PRoS-tee-tay) Pardn me (asking fr help) – Prsim (pr-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am frm... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Mnday - pnedeljek (PoH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday - trek (ToR-ek) Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday - četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday - petek (peh-tuck) Saturday - sbta (sh-BoH-tah) Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Wh? - Kd?(K-dh) What? - Kaj?(Kai) Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay) When? - Kdaj (K-dai) Hw much des i t cst? - Klik stane (KoH-lee-kh STAH-neh)? Places Cratia - Hrvaška (Hurr-VASH-ka) England - An glija (Ahn-glee-yah) (Ahn-glee-yah) Germany - Nemčija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Hungary - Madžarska (Mad-jar-skah) Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah) Netherlands - Nizzemska (NEE-z-zem-skah) Sctland - Šktska (Shkt-skah) Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Vienna - Dunaj (D-nigh) Signs open - dprt (ohd-PURT-h) Clsed - zaprt (Zah- PURT-h)
EDEN Slovenia
Travelling Bus - avtbus (oW-th-bze) Train - vlak (v-LoCK) I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ... one ticket, please - En vstpnic, prsim (Eh-nh -stpNEETZ-h pr- SEEM) Times Nw - zdaj (z-dai) Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Tday - danes (dahn-es) Tmrrw - jutri (y-tree) Yesterday - včeraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the mrning - zjutraj (z-Yoo-try) In the afternn - ppldne (ph-PoLD-neh) (ph-PoLD-neh) In the evening - zvečer (z-veh-chehr) At night - ponoči (poh-NOH-chee) Bar Talk one cffee, please - En kav prsim (EH-nh KAH-vh pr-SEEM) one beer, please - (Name f beer), prsim (pr-SEEM) Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! What’s ging n? - Kaj dgaja? (kai Do-ga-ya) Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo) You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay lehpeh h-chee) Yu’re ht - Si lepa (see LAY-pa) Where are yu frm? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see) Can I have yur number?- Lahk dbim tvj telefnsk številk? (Law-kh dh-BEEM t-vy-y teh-leh-FoHN-sk shteh-VEEL-kh)? See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)
Street smarts Slvenians usually leave ut the wrd fr street in cnversatin, s while yur destinatin may fficially be called ‘Pljanska ulica’, yu can survive by just saying Pljanska Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses- tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sa h) Street
2012/13
Tourist Information
City Centre
Tourist Information Centre Vodnikova 3, tel.
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37 71 162, www.kut.si. Althugh it’s situated in the same building that frmerly served as the main entrance t Idrija’s famed mercury mine and nw huses the twn’s fine mining museum, the eight rms in this centrally-lcated guesthuse are all bright, airy and mdernly furnished with en suite bathrms. The h use’s secndary claim t fame is as the birthplace f Stank Bludek, an artist, desi gner and engineer, wh is ften referred t as the Slvenian Lenard da Vinci, and amng his many ther distinctins designed the giant Planica ski jump and is the nly Slvene t ever be n the Internatinal olympic Cmmittee. Q 8 rooms (singles €30, doubles €60, triples €80, quads €90).
A bird’s eye view f Idrija’s ld twn, pht by Jani Peternelj
Lcated in a river valley and surrunded by hills and plateaus, Idrija is nly accessible by car - unless f curse yu’re an avid cyclist. It takes roughly 50 minutes to make the 60km dri ve from Ljubljana, abut half f which is mtrway, while the remaining half is alng cuntry rads that take yu thrugh several
Entrance - vhd (-hd) Exit - izhd (eez-hd) Push – rini (ree-nee) Pull – vleci (-LETS-ee)
Where t Sleep tel. +386 (0)31 603 333, mihael.podobnik@gmail. com. This large apartment directly ppsite Anthny’s Shaft in the centre f the ld twn (it’s name means ‘n the ld square’) has tw separate bedrms and can sleep up t seven peple if the cnvertible cuch in the living rm is utilised. Minimally furnished, spacius and kept sptlessly clean, it’s great ptin fr a big family r small grups grups that wuld like their privacy. Meals can be arranged with advance ntice, but there is als a fully-equipped fully-equipped kitchen in the living rm fr self-catering. ng. Each f the b edrms have their wn bathrms and can theretically be rented individually, individually, althugh this can be difficult t arrange during the peak seasn. JL
Arriving
Learn cmmnly-used Slvene wrds and phrases n ur website - and frm a British guy n less!
IdrIja
Apartma na Starmu Placu Trg svetega Ahacija 7,
If yu mentin the name Idrija t mst Slvenes, tw wrds immediately cme t mind (mercury and lace), perhaps followed shortly thereafter by a third (žlikrofi). The discvery f the what wuld grw t becme the wrld’s second largest mercury mine here in 1490 led to nearly 500 years of prosperity and growth associated with the mining industry, while a unique lacemaking traditin develped amngst the wives and daughters f miners, which still cntinues t this day. The trifecta is runded ut by žlikrofi, a distinctive ravioli-like culinary speciality that became Slovenia’s first officially protected dish in 2010. While this wuld be enugh t put mst twns f arund 12,000 residents on the map, Idrija’s tourism offer ges well beynd its mst famus individual elements, cmbining its rich histrical, industrial, natural and cultural heritage int ne well-rganised package. Within easy driving distance frm bth the Mediterranean cast and the Slvene capital Ljubljana, Idrija nevertheless feels as if it’s hidden away frm the utside wrld by the three plateaus that cnverge arund it. Thanks t this natural beauty (which includes the cuntry’s first prtected natural mnument) and perhaps even mre s t the fresight that led lcal industries t diversify away frm mining, Idrija was nt nly able t avid the ecnmic hardships that befell ther frmer mining twns, but has cntinued t prsper as a turist destinatin - the culminatin f which was its designatin as a Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2011.
Learn Slovene
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
IdrIja
PJALKW
UNESCO Heritage Site V NA
O E T V
S
Idrija Youth Hostel IX Korpusa 17, tel. +386 (0)5
DE D I Š C
ˇ
I N
A
W •
•
L A
O R
I
D
N
L
D
H E R
O
M
E
N I A G E O P A T R I M
I T
•
United Nations Educational, Scientific and
Cultural Organization
Heritage of Mercury. Almadén and Idrija inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012
As had lng been expected, Idrija was fficially added t the ranks of UNESCO World Heritage sites in June 2012. Jintly recgnised with the city f Almaden i n Spain, which is the lcatin f the nly mercury mine in the wrld larger than Idrija’s, the much-deserved achievement was the result f a six-year effrt by the tw twns frever cnnected by their shared histry f mercury, as well as the technical and industrial heritage that develped as a result f it. small villages and get increasingly windy as yu near Idrija - if yu get stuck behind ne f the many schl buses plying this rute t take pupils t the mining museum, it can add an extra few minutes t yur jur ney. Take Take the exit t Logatec and follow the 102 and signs from there. If yu’re feeling adventurus, r it just suits yur itinerary better, Idrija can als be reached via smaller rads ver the muntains frm Nva Grica and Tlmin in the east r Žiri and Škofja Loka in west, which are usually kept clear f snw during winter. If yu dn’t have yur wn car, there are nine buses per day between 08:15 and 19:15 from Ljubljana’s main statin, althugh this drps t eight n Saturdays and five on Sundays. The fare is €6.30 one-way, and can be paid n the bus. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
373 40 76, fax +386 (0)5 373 40 89,
[email protected]. Basic inexpensive accmmdatin a few minutes up the hill frm the city centre, if yu’re n a tight budget r lking t meet ther travellers wh like t veer ff the prverbial beaten path thi s place is fr yu. More than half of the 43 beds are found in private double rms, which means yu can als save sme eurs withut sacrificing yur privacy. Extras such as WiFi, sheets, twels and parking are all included in the pric e, and there are several cmmn areas, a TV rm and large garden at guests’ dispsal. Q16 rooms (doubles €26). JLW
Hotel Jožef Vojkova 9a, tel. +386 (0)8 20 04 250/+386 250/+386 (0)5 37 50 650,
[email protected], www. hotel-jozef.si.Instead hotel-jozef.si. Instead f being discuraged by the lack f suitable accmmdatin ptins fr its visiting emplyees and business partners, the Idrija-based Klektr Grup simply decided t build a fur-star business class htel acrss the street frm its ffices. N expense was spared in designing the spacius cmfrtable rms, and the attentin t detail is evident frm the cmplimentary bath prducts and mini-bar selectin t the ample wrkspace and smking chamber in the hallway. There’s als an excellent restaurant n the first flr, while the prfessinal service ensures a pleasurable wrry-free stay. PJAULKXW
Arund Idrija Kendov Dvorec Na Griču 2, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 37 25 100, fax +386 (0)5 37 56 475,
[email protected], www.kendov-dvorec.com. Kendv Dvrec is quite simply ne f the finest h tels in all f Slvenia, and truly has t be seen t be believed. A sprawling country manor that dates back to 1377 and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
9
+386 (0)5 374 39 16, fax +386 (0)5 374 39 15,
[email protected], www.idrija-turizem.si. Cnveniently lcated ppsite the main bus statin, Idrija’s turist infrmatin centre is hused in the building that was frmerly the engine rm fr the Inzaghi mine shaft - althugh the large piece f machinery dminating the rm lks t be brand new, it was actually the riginal pulley system used t transprt wrkers int and ut f the mine, and dates back all the way to 1890. once yu’ve had a chance t peer i nt the deceptively deep space belw the wheel, shift yur fcus t the seemingly endless supply f brchures, guidebks (including this ne hpefully), maps and brchures cvering every square metre f Idrija, as well neighburing regins and sites thrughut Slvenia. This is als the best place t hire a knwledgable lcal guide, r ask a friendly English-speaking member f the staff sme basic questins befre heading u t n yur wn. Dn’t frget t make a return visit befre yu leave twn t pick up the necessary pstcards, suvenirs r ther gifts - including f curse a selectin f authentic hand-made Idrija lace. was fr generatins the primary residence f the wealthy Kenda family, the building and surrunding grunds n a small hillck verlking Spdnja Idrija have been painstakingly restred t their frmer splendur, while als being enhanced with all f the mdern amenities befitting f a five-star butique htel. The eleven rms vary greatly in size and shape, but are all furnished with authentic 19th-century antiques and handmade Idrija lace. A member f the prestigius Relais & Chateaux Htel Assciatin, guests can be assured superb prfessinal service frm the highly traine d staff, and exquisite exquisite cuisine prepared by the huse chef wh was frmerly awarded the title Chef f Year fr Slvenia. Q11 rooms (singles €130-230, doubl es €180- 330). PHAILBKW
Kmečki Hram Fortuna Idršek 1a, Idršek, tel. +386 (0)5 377 91 49/+386 (0)40 600 811, kmecki.hra m@ siol.net. Perched at the edge f the Ledine plateau verlking the Idrijca Valley and Spdnja Idrija t ne side the the hills leading down to Žiri on the other, For For tuna cmbines the peaceful seclusin f the cuntryside with easy access t many f the area’s attractins. The rms are cmfrtably furnished and all cme with en suite bathrms and tiny satellite TVs, but the real draw here in additin t the lcatin is the restaurant n the grund flr, which is a ppular destinatin fr independent visitrs, tur grups and lcals. LBK Prenočišča Na Kluk Govejk 14c, Govejk, tel. +386
(0)5 3779 007/+386 (0)51 435 497,
[email protected], www.nakluk.si. Tucked away between mun tain meadws and thick frests just utside the tin y village f Gvejk, which lies in the hills t the east f Spdnja Idrija n the main rad to Žiri, Na Kluk offers nine tidy little rooms with a total of 28 beds. Mdest but well-kept, the place is perfect fr visitrs lking t explre the surrunding natural sights n either bike r ft, r just relax under the shade f a tree as time slws t a crawl. We especially like the rms upstairs with wd-panelled ceilings, but as they are all themed n different clurs, yu may want t ask what’s available when yu check-in. TL 2012/13
11
10
IdrIja
IdrIja
Where t Sleep
Tourist Information
City Centre
Tourist Information Centre Vodnikova 3, tel.
Apartma na Starmu Placu Trg svetega Ahacija 7,
tel. +386 (0)31 603 333, mihael.podobnik@gmail. com. This large apartment directly ppsite Anthny’s Shaft in the centre f the ld twn (it’s name means ‘n the ld square’) has tw separate bedrms and can sleep up t seven peple if the cnvertible cuch in the living rm is utilised. Minimally furnished, spacius and kept sptlessly clean, it’s great ptin fr a big family r small grups grups that wuld like their privacy. Meals can be arranged with advance ntice, but there is als a fully-equipped fully-equipped kitchen in the living rm fr self-catering. ng. Each f the b edrms have their wn bathrms and can theretically be rented individually, individually, althugh this can be difficult t arrange during the peak seasn. JL
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37 71 162, www.kut.si. Althugh it’s situated in the same building that frmerly served as the main entrance t Idrija’s famed mercury mine and nw huses the twn’s fine mining museum, the eight rms in this centrally-lcated guesthuse are all bright, airy and mdernly furnished with en suite bathrms. The h use’s secndary claim t fame is as the birthplace f Stank Bludek, an artist, desi gner and engineer, wh is ften referred t as the Slvenian Lenard da Vinci, and amng his many ther distinctins designed the giant Planica ski jump and is the nly Slvene t ever be n the Internatinal olympic Cmmittee. Q 8 rooms (singles €30, doubles €60, triples €80, quads €90).
A bird’s eye view f Idrija’s ld twn, pht by Jani Peternelj If yu mentin the name Idrija t mst Slvenes, tw wrds immediately cme t mind (mercury and lace), perhaps followed shortly thereafter by a third (žlikrofi). The discvery f the what wuld grw t becme the wrld’s second largest mercury mine here in 1490 led to nearly 500 years of prosperity and growth associated with the mining industry, while a unique lacemaking traditin develped amngst the wives and daughters f miners, which still cntinues t this day. The trifecta is runded ut by žlikrofi, a distinctive ravioli-like culinary speciality that became Slovenia’s first officially protected dish in 2010. While this wuld be enugh t put mst twns f arund 12,000 residents on the map, Idrija’s tourism offer ges well beynd its mst famus individual elements, cmbining its rich histrical, industrial, natural and cultural heritage int ne well-rganised package. Within easy driving distance frm bth the Mediterranean cast and the Slvene capital Ljubljana, Idrija nevertheless feels as if it’s hidden away frm the utside wrld by the three plateaus that cnverge arund it. Thanks t this natural beauty (which includes the cuntry’s first prtected natural mnument) and perhaps even mre s t the fresight that led lcal industries t diversify away frm mining, Idrija was nt nly able t avid the ecnmic hardships that befell ther frmer mining twns, but has cntinued t prsper as a turist destinatin - the culminatin f which was its designatin as a Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2011.
Arriving Lcated in a river valley and surrunded by hills and plateaus, Idrija is nly accessible by car - unless f curse yu’re an avid cyclist. It takes roughly 50 minutes to make the 60km dri ve from Ljubljana, abut half f which is mtrway, while the remaining half is alng cuntry rads that take yu thrugh several
PJALKW
UNESCO Heritage Site V NA
O E T V
S
DE D I Š C
ˇ
I N
A
W •
•
L A
O R
I
D
N
L
D
H E R
O
M
E
N I A G E O P A T R I M
I T
•
United Nations Educational, Scientific and
Cultural Organization
Heritage of Mercury. Almadén and Idrija inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012
As had lng been expected, Idrija was fficially added t the ranks of UNESCO World Heritage sites in June 2012. Jintly recgnised with the city f Almaden i n Spain, which is the lcatin f the nly mercury mine in the wrld larger than Idrija’s, the much-deserved achievement was the result f a six-year effrt by the tw twns frever cnnected by their shared histry f mercury, as well as the technical and industrial heritage that develped as a result f it. small villages and get increasingly windy as yu near Idrija - if yu get stuck behind ne f the many schl buses plying this rute t take pupils t the mining museum, it can add an extra few minutes t yur jur ney. Take Take the exit t Logatec and follow the 102 and signs from there. If yu’re feeling adventurus, r it just suits yur itinerary better, Idrija can als be reached via smaller rads ver the muntains frm Nva Grica and Tlmin in the east r Žiri and Škofja Loka in west, which are usually kept clear f snw during winter. If yu dn’t have yur wn car, there are nine buses per day between 08:15 and 19:15 from Ljubljana’s main statin, althugh this drps t eight n Saturdays and five on Sundays. The fare is €6.30 one-way, and can be paid n the bus. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
12
Idrija Youth Hostel IX Korpusa 17, tel. +386 (0)5
373 40 76, fax +386 (0)5 373 40 89,
[email protected]. Basic inexpensive accmmdatin a few minutes up the hill frm the city centre, if yu’re n a tight budget r lking t meet ther travellers wh like t veer ff the prverbial beaten path thi s place is fr yu. More than half of the 43 beds are found in private double rms, which means yu can als save sme eurs withut sacrificing yur privacy. Extras such as WiFi, sheets, twels and parking are all included in the pric e, and there are several cmmn areas, a TV rm and large garden at guests’ dispsal. Q16 rooms (doubles €26). JLW
Hotel Jožef Vojkova 9a, tel. +386 (0)8 20 04 250/+386 250/+386 (0)5 37 50 650,
[email protected], www. hotel-jozef.si.Instead hotel-jozef.si. Instead f being discuraged by the lack f suitable accmmdatin ptins fr its visiting emplyees and business partners, the Idrija-based Klektr Grup simply decided t build a fur-star business class htel acrss the street frm its ffices. N expense was spared in designing the spacius cmfrtable rms, and the attentin t detail is evident frm the cmplimentary bath prducts and mini-bar selectin t the ample wrkspace and smking chamber in the hallway. There’s als an excellent restaurant n the first flr, while the prfessinal service ensures a pleasurable wrry-free stay. PJAULKXW
Arund Idrija Kendov Dvorec Na Griču 2, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 37 25 100, fax +386 (0)5 37 56 475,
[email protected], www.kendov-dvorec.com. Kendv Dvrec is quite simply ne f the finest h tels in all f Slvenia, and truly has t be seen t be believed. A sprawling country manor that dates back to 1377 and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
IdrIja
Where t Eat Gostilna Kos Tomšičeva 4, tel. +386 (0)5 372 20 30, www.gostilna-kos.si. one f the ldest restaurants in Idrija, it’s impssible t miss Gstilna Ks as yu crss the the bridge leading int the centre f th e twn. The speciality of the house is what else but žlikrofi, with bakalco (mutton) and gulash being the mst ppular sauces t g alng with the ptat-filled dumplings. They usually have at least a few hearty set-menus t chse frm at lunch time, and the grund flr dining area (and restrm) is als wheelchair accessible. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Mon 07:00 - 15:00. Clsed Sun. PAUBX Gostilna Metka Črni Vrh 78, tel. +386 (0)41 211
443/+386 (0)5 3777 015,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.gostilnametka.com.Sitting www.gostilnametka.com. Sitting atop the Črni Vrh plateau in the centre f a csy li ttle village f the same name, Gstilna Metka (r Gstilna pri Metki as it is smetimes called) is a family-run restaurant and guesthuse that was first pened in 1888. The traditional food is roundly excellent, and trying the Ferdinand dessert after yur meal is a must. At an altitu de of over 700m, a trip here offers offers a refreshing break during th e ht summer mnths, and with six guest rms available it als makes an great base fr explring the plateau n ft r bike. Bed and breakfast is €25 per person, and full-board is an absolute steal at onl y €30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Mn, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Mlinar Žirovska 4, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 63 16. This is nt nly the b est place t try Idrija’s famous žlikrofi, but i t’s also one only a handful f restaurants in Slvenia that we cnsider amngst ur persnal favurites. Run by the husband and wife team Drag and Mira, he is abut the friendliest hst yu can imagine, while she prduces sme wnderful dishes in the kitchen. The a forementioned žlikrofi come in a dozen different muthwatering varieties - r a different ne fr each mnth as they like t say - while th e rest f the menu is equally appetising. Drag is als rightfully prud f his carefully cmpsed wine list, and finishing a meal withut a glass f hmemade schnapps is simply unthinkable. A terrace with sweeping views f the valley belw and a play area fr the kids rund ut the ffer. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Pri Škafarju Ulica Svete Barbare 9, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 32 40,
[email protected], www. skafar.si. Named fr the legendary bucket maker wh first discovered Idrija’s mercury over 500 years ago, this place has a great atmsphere, whether yu sit dwnstairs in view f the wd-fired pizza ven, upstairs in the rm lined with the icnic wrks f a famus lcal artist, r at ne f the handfuls f tables utside. Perhaps mre imprtantly it has
These spinach štruklji tasted even better than they lk, pht by YMB EDEN Slovenia
+386 (0)5 374 39 16, fax +386 (0)5 374 39 15,
[email protected], www.idrija-turizem.si. Cnveniently lcated ppsite the main bus statin, Idrija’s turist infrmatin centre is hused in the building that was frmerly the engine rm fr the Inzaghi mine shaft - althugh the large piece f machinery dminating the rm lks t be brand new, it was actually the riginal pulley system used t transprt wrkers int and ut f the mine, and dates back all the way to 1890. once yu’ve had a chance t peer i nt the deceptively deep space belw the wheel, shift yur fcus t the seemingly endless supply f brchures, guidebks (including this ne hpefully), maps and brchures cvering every square metre f Idrija, as well neighburing regins and sites thrughut Slvenia. This is als the best place t hire a knwledgable lcal guide, r ask a friendly English-speaking member f the staff sme basic questins befre heading u t n yur wn. Dn’t frget t make a return visit befre yu leave twn t pick up the necessary pstcards, suvenirs r ther gifts - including f curse a selectin f authentic hand-made Idrija lace. was fr generatins the primary residence f the wealthy Kenda family, the building and surrunding grunds n a small hillck verlking Spdnja Idrija have been painstakingly restred t their frmer splendur, while als being enhanced with all f the mdern amenities befitting f a five-star butique htel. The eleven rms vary greatly in size and shape, but are all furnished with authentic 19th-century antiques and handmade Idrija lace. A member f the prestigius Relais & Chateaux Htel Assciatin, guests can be assured superb prfessinal service frm the highly traine d staff, and exquisite exquisite cuisine prepared by the huse chef wh was frmerly awarded the title Chef f Year fr Slvenia. Q11 rooms (singles €130-230, doubl es €180- 330). PHAILBKW
Kmečki Hram Fortuna Idršek 1a, Idršek, tel. +386 (0)5 377 91 49/+386 (0)40 600 811, kmecki.hra m@ siol.net. Perched at the edge f the Ledine plateau verlking the Idrijca Valley and Spdnja Idrija t ne side the the hills leading down to Žiri on the other, For For tuna cmbines the peaceful seclusin f the cuntryside with easy access t many f the area’s attractins. The rms are cmfrtably furnished and all cme with en suite bathrms and tiny satellite TVs, but the real draw here in additin t the lcatin is the restaurant n the grund flr, which is a ppular destinatin fr independent visitrs, tur grups and lcals. LBK Prenočišča Na Kluk Govejk 14c, Govejk, tel. +386
(0)5 3779 007/+386 (0)51 435 497,
[email protected], www.nakluk.si. Tucked away between mun tain meadws and thick frests just utside the tin y village f Gvejk, which lies in the hills t the east f Spdnja Idrija n the main rad to Žiri, Na Kluk offers nine tidy little rooms with a total of 28 beds. Mdest but well-kept, the place is perfect fr visitrs lking t explre the surrunding natural sights n either bike r ft, r just relax under the shade f a tree as time slws t a crawl. We especially like the rms upstairs with wd-panelled ceilings, but as they are all themed n different clurs, yu may want t ask what’s available when yu check-in. TL 2012/13
IdrIja sme f the best fd arund, including what may very well be ur favurite vegetarian dish in all f Slvenia: th e spinach štruklji with cream sauce (which we admittedly first rdered by accident). The are als fur newly pened guest rms, which ffer ffer csy mdern accmmdatin in th e very centre f twn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. PTJAB
Gostilna Žlikrof Vojkova 14, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
65/+386 (0)51 428 606,
[email protected]. A newish place that serves up inexpensive meals by the dzens t a clientele cnsisting primarily f wrkers frm nearby cmpanies n their lunch breaks, given the prminently placed word ‘žlikrofi’ on the façade you don’t get any prize for guessing what the mst ppular dish n the menu is (hint: i t’s nt spaghetti). T find the place just keep an eye ut fr the rund façade n yur right n the main rad t Sp dnja Idrija. QOpen 07:30-22:00 Mon-Thur, 07:30-23:00 Fri, 11:00-23:00 Sat and 11:00-15:00 Sun.
Cafés Amigos Rožna 8, tel. +386 (0)5 37 41578. The first, and so far only, palačinkarnica that we’ve we’ve ever come acrss, in additin t the expectedly wide selectin f bth savury and sweet pancakes (r crepes if yu’re American) yu’ll find a ppular café that was lvingly renvated, expanded, designed and decrated ver the years by the wner and manager - sh e even makes her wn chclate! The large cvered terrace n the small square-cum-car park utside can get lively in the evenings during the warmer mnths, and is als a great place t enjy yur ice cream r ther dessert du ring the day. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB Galerija Bar Ulica Sv. Barbare 4.This 4. This recently renvated café in the centre f th e ld twn features red ceilings, mdy sft lighting and an eclectic selectin f cntemprary art n the walls - all f which can be purchased frm the artists. The thrughly mdern interir is supplemented by sme shaded tables in the alleyway utside, and the clientele is a mixed grup ranging frm yung peple drinking draught beers and ld men reading newspapers t turists enjying ccktails. Small warm snacks are als available. Q open 06:30-23:00 Mon-Thur, 06:30-24:00 Fri-Sat and 08:0023:00 Sun. PJBW Kavarna Idrija Tel. +386 (0)31 356 554. This place
wuld be cl and trendy even if it were in the capital Ljubljana (althugh it wuld likely be called Art Café r smething similar), which makes it a pleasantly surprising find in a twn the size f Idrija. Hsting temprary exhibitins by internatinal artists as well as frequent cncerts and ther events, this is easily the hippest place t drink while yu’re in twn. Lcated in the same stately building as city hall in the centre f the ld twn, its large picture windws and cmfrtable mdern décr make it a fine place t relax with a cffee during the day as well. PJEBW
Pri Zagodu Gregorčičeva 69, tel. +386 (0)5 377 35 05.After 05. After a lng day f fishing there’s n better place t cme and satiate yur thirst than this classic cuntryside bar, set just suth f twn twn n themain rad ppsitea large large bbend end in the river. While the regular custmers may nt speak much English, they’re definitely a friendly lt, and the curius sight f a freign visitr in their midst is sure t put yu n the receiving end f sme gd-natured attentin. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37 71 162, www.kut.si. Lcated n the first flr abve the Anthny’s Shaft mining museum and infrmatin centre, this bright mdern restaurant attracts a mix f lcals and turists, and has a gd selectin f reginal dishes and interesting delicacies - if yu’ve always wanted t try deer steak with chclate sauce this is yur chance! Ask t see the sheet with the specials f the mnth, as these multi-curse set-menus always feature tasty seasnal dishes and are als usually th e best value. Q Open 09:00-22:00 Mon-Thur, 09:00-23:00 FriSat, 10:00-22:00 Sun and holidays. PTJALBSW Gostišče Mostičer Mokraška Vas 1, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 377 61 17/+ 386 (0)41 444 969, branko.
[email protected] [email protected] via a massive thrugh arch bridge on the road to Spodnja Idrija Mostičer is a popular place for lcal families t gather fr imprtant birthdays, wedding receptins, anniversaries and ther special events. While the utside is rather nndescript, the interir has character in spades, with wden beam ceilings, a bar fr grizzled fisherman t cngregate at befre heading hme t their wives, and a rm dedicated t Jsip Brz Tit - we’re still unclear if he ever ate here, but his prtrait is n the wall. Fresh river fish is the highlight f the menu, and dining utside alng the river near the children’s playgrund is a must if the weather allws fr it. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. TALB
What t See Essential Idrija Gewerkenegg Castle & Idrija Municipal Museum (Mestni Muzej Idrija) Prelovčeva 9, tel. +386 (0)5
37 26 600,
[email protected], www. muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Idrija’s award-winning city museum is housed in the 16th century Gewerkenegg Castle, which twers ver the ld twn frm its perch n a small hillck to the west. Built in the 1533, the castle’s somewhat odd sunding name is said t have cme frm the ld German wrd fr mine r mining cmpany (Gerwerke) and the surname f the Habsburg vice regent (Jurij Egg) wh was in charge f the mine at the time f the castle’s cnstructin. First used as a simple stra ge facility fr wheat and mercur y, the castle lng-served as the administrative ffices fr the mine, and at varius times ver the centuries parts f the castle als functined as ffices fr ther enterprises, schls and residential quarters. Its appearance largely dates back to the mid-18th century when renovations were carried ut in the Barque style, and it was als extensively renovated in the early 1990s. I t has been the h ome of Idrija’s Municipal Museum, and music school, since 1953, which boasts a total of 26 separate exhibition rooms that cover a total space of 1300m 2. The museum’s highlights include the mineralgical and petrgraphic cllectin, where amng ther items yu can view a bwl f liquid mercury with a slid irn ball flating in it and pick up a mercury-rich chunk f cinnabar, and the Idrija lace collection, which was opened in 2008 and details the histor y of the city’s lace production from its 17th century beginnings all the way up t mdern lace fashin by sme f Slvenia’s tp designers. Hwever, the single mst impressive lace piece may be the large intricate tableclth that was created by a team of 12 master lacemakers in the 1970s as a gift fr Tit’s wife Jvanka (which was never actually given t the Yugslav first lady due t a dispute with the prtcl ffice). other exhibitins nt t be missed are the s-called Mercury Twer (which cmbines mining equipment with mdern art), a cllectin f artefacts frm the time f Italian and German ccupatin, and a fine mdern ar t cllectin dnated by Idrijabrn Valentina orsini Mazza. It was named the best Eurpean eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
11
The impsing façade f Gewerkenegg Castle, pht by Dunja Wedam museum of industrial and technical heritage in 1997, an d also received Slovenia’s top museum prize in 2008. In additin t the physical premises, the museum als basts ne f the mst user-friendly and infrmati ve websites we’ve seen, which details the individual cllectins held at Gewerkenegg Castle as well as the separate sites it manages arund Idrija (the Partisan Print Shp, Miner’s Huse, etc). Q open 09:00-18:00. 09:00-18:00. Admission €3.50, children an d students €1.70.
Anthony’s Shaft Arkova 43, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
42,
[email protected], www.rzs-idrija.si.Anthny’s www.rzs-idrija.si.Anthny’s Shaft - r Anth ny’s Main Rad as it is smetimes called, as it lng served as the mine’s main entrance - is the ldest part f Idrija’s unimaginably expansive undergrund wrld, which was once comprised of some 700km of shafts. Located at the spot where the mine was initially dug in the year 1500, an 18th century building called the Šelštev now serves as a living museum, educatin centre and entry pint fr turs int the mine itself, and is a must-see sight fr thse interested in Idrija’s rich mining histry. Mst visits begin wi th a screening f a shrt film (available in several languages) that gives a detailed histry f the mine, from its geological origins to i ts discovery in 1490 by a now legendary bucket maker and the ensuing develpment and expansin f bth the mine and twn that ccurred as a result. Special attentin i s paid t the lives f the hard-wrking miners whse sweat and bld made it pssible, and prepares viewers fr the jurney they are abut t embark n. While the majrity f the mine was backfilled befre being officially closed in 1995, part of that still open has been set up for tours, which take visitors some 100m below the ear th’s surface and prvide a firsthand experience f the cnditins the miners wrked under. one f the subterranean highlights 2012/13
13
12
IdrIja
Where t Eat Gostilna Kos Tomšičeva 4, tel. +386 (0)5 372 20 30, www.gostilna-kos.si. one f the ldest restaurants in Idrija, it’s impssible t miss Gstilna Ks as yu crss the the bridge leading int the centre f th e twn. The speciality of the house is what else but žlikrofi, with bakalco (mutton) and gulash being the mst ppular sauces t g alng with the ptat-filled dumplings. They usually have at least a few hearty set-menus t chse frm at lunch time, and the grund flr dining area (and restrm) is als wheelchair accessible. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Mon 07:00 - 15:00. Clsed Sun. PAUBX Gostilna Metka Črni Vrh 78, tel. +386 (0)41 211
443/+386 (0)5 3777 015,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.gostilnametka.com.Sitting www.gostilnametka.com. Sitting atop the Črni Vrh plateau in the centre f a csy li ttle village f the same name, Gstilna Metka (r Gstilna pri Metki as it is smetimes called) is a family-run restaurant and guesthuse that was first pened in 1888. The traditional food is roundly excellent, and trying the Ferdinand dessert after yur meal is a must. At an altitu de of over 700m, a trip here offers offers a refreshing break during th e ht summer mnths, and with six guest rms available it als makes an great base fr explring the plateau n ft r bike. Bed and breakfast is €25 per person, and full-board is an absolute steal at onl y €30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Mn, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Mlinar Žirovska 4, Spodnja Idrija, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 63 16. This is nt nly the b est place t try Idrija’s famous žlikrofi, but i t’s also one only a handful f restaurants in Slvenia that we cnsider amngst ur persnal favurites. Run by the husband and wife team Drag and Mira, he is abut the friendliest hst yu can imagine, while she prduces sme wnderful dishes in the kitchen. The a forementioned žlikrofi come in a dozen different muthwatering varieties - r a different ne fr each mnth as they like t say - while th e rest f the menu is equally appetising. Drag is als rightfully prud f his carefully cmpsed wine list, and finishing a meal withut a glass f hmemade schnapps is simply unthinkable. A terrace with sweeping views f the valley belw and a play area fr the kids rund ut the ffer. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PTALB
Gostilna Pri Škafarju Ulica Svete Barbare 9, tel.
+386 (0)5 377 32 40,
[email protected], www. skafar.si. Named fr the legendary bucket maker wh first discovered Idrija’s mercury over 500 years ago, this place has a great atmsphere, whether yu sit dwnstairs in view f the wd-fired pizza ven, upstairs in the rm lined with the icnic wrks f a famus lcal artist, r at ne f the handfuls f tables utside. Perhaps mre imprtantly it has
These spinach štruklji tasted even better than they lk, pht by YMB
IdrIja sme f the best fd arund, including what may very well be ur favurite vegetarian dish in all f Slvenia: th e spinach štruklji with cream sauce (which we admittedly first rdered by accident). The are als fur newly pened guest rms, which ffer ffer csy mdern accmmdatin in th e very centre f twn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. PTJAB
Gostilna Žlikrof Vojkova 14, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
65/+386 (0)51 428 606,
[email protected]. A newish place that serves up inexpensive meals by the dzens t a clientele cnsisting primarily f wrkers frm nearby cmpanies n their lunch breaks, given the prminently placed word ‘žlikrofi’ on the façade you don’t get any prize for guessing what the mst ppular dish n the menu is (hint: i t’s nt spaghetti). T find the place just keep an eye ut fr the rund façade n yur right n the main rad t Sp dnja Idrija. QOpen 07:30-22:00 Mon-Thur, 07:30-23:00 Fri, 11:00-23:00 Sat and 11:00-15:00 Sun.
Cafés Amigos Rožna 8, tel. +386 (0)5 37 41578. The first, and so far only, palačinkarnica that we’ve we’ve ever come acrss, in additin t the expectedly wide selectin f bth savury and sweet pancakes (r crepes if yu’re American) yu’ll find a ppular café that was lvingly renvated, expanded, designed and decrated ver the years by the wner and manager - sh e even makes her wn chclate! The large cvered terrace n the small square-cum-car park utside can get lively in the evenings during the warmer mnths, and is als a great place t enjy yur ice cream r ther dessert du ring the day. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB Galerija Bar Ulica Sv. Barbare 4.This 4. This recently renvated café in the centre f th e ld twn features red ceilings, mdy sft lighting and an eclectic selectin f cntemprary art n the walls - all f which can be purchased frm the artists. The thrughly mdern interir is supplemented by sme shaded tables in the alleyway utside, and the clientele is a mixed grup ranging frm yung peple drinking draught beers and ld men reading newspapers t turists enjying ccktails. Small warm snacks are als available. Q open 06:30-23:00 Mon-Thur, 06:30-24:00 Fri-Sat and 08:0023:00 Sun. PJBW Kavarna Idrija Tel. +386 (0)31 356 554. This place
wuld be cl and trendy even if it were in the capital Ljubljana (althugh it wuld likely be called Art Café r smething similar), which makes it a pleasantly surprising find in a twn the size f Idrija. Hsting temprary exhibitins by internatinal artists as well as frequent cncerts and ther events, this is easily the hippest place t drink while yu’re in twn. Lcated in the same stately building as city hall in the centre f the ld twn, its large picture windws and cmfrtable mdern décr make it a fine place t relax with a cffee during the day as well. PJEBW
Pri Zagodu Gregorčičeva 69, tel. +386 (0)5 377 35 05.After 05. After a lng day f fishing there’s n better place t cme and satiate yur thirst than this classic cuntryside bar, set just suth f twn twn n themain rad ppsitea large large bbend end in the river. While the regular custmers may nt speak much English, they’re definitely a friendly lt, and the curius sight f a freign visitr in their midst is sure t put yu n the receiving end f sme gd-natured attentin. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
14
Gostišče Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37 71 162, www.kut.si. Lcated n the first flr abve the Anthny’s Shaft mining museum and infrmatin centre, this bright mdern restaurant attracts a mix f lcals and turists, and has a gd selectin f reginal dishes and interesting delicacies - if yu’ve always wanted t try deer steak with chclate sauce this is yur chance! Ask t see the sheet with the specials f the mnth, as these multi-curse set-menus always feature tasty seasnal dishes and are als usually th e best value. Q Open 09:00-22:00 Mon-Thur, 09:00-23:00 FriSat, 10:00-22:00 Sun and holidays. PTJALBSW Gostišče Mostičer Mokraška Vas 1, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 377 61 17/+ 386 (0)41 444 969, branko.
[email protected] [email protected] via a massive thrugh arch bridge on the road to Spodnja Idrija Mostičer is a popular place for lcal families t gather fr imprtant birthdays, wedding receptins, anniversaries and ther special events. While the utside is rather nndescript, the interir has character in spades, with wden beam ceilings, a bar fr grizzled fisherman t cngregate at befre heading hme t their wives, and a rm dedicated t Jsip Brz Tit - we’re still unclear if he ever ate here, but his prtrait is n the wall. Fresh river fish is the highlight f the menu, and dining utside alng the river near the children’s playgrund is a must if the weather allws fr it. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. TALB
What t See Essential Idrija Gewerkenegg Castle & Idrija Municipal Museum (Mestni Muzej Idrija) Prelovčeva 9, tel. +386 (0)5
37 26 600,
[email protected], www. muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Idrija’s award-winning city museum is housed in the 16th century Gewerkenegg Castle, which twers ver the ld twn frm its perch n a small hillck to the west. Built in the 1533, the castle’s somewhat odd sunding name is said t have cme frm the ld German wrd fr mine r mining cmpany (Gerwerke) and the surname f the Habsburg vice regent (Jurij Egg) wh was in charge f the mine at the time f the castle’s cnstructin. First used as a simple stra ge facility fr wheat and mercur y, the castle lng-served as the administrative ffices fr the mine, and at varius times ver the centuries parts f the castle als functined as ffices fr ther enterprises, schls and residential quarters. Its appearance largely dates back to the mid-18th century when renovations were carried ut in the Barque style, and it was als extensively renovated in the early 1990s. I t has been the h ome of Idrija’s Municipal Museum, and music school, since 1953, which boasts a total of 26 separate exhibition rooms that cover a total space of 1300m 2. The museum’s highlights include the mineralgical and petrgraphic cllectin, where amng ther items yu can view a bwl f liquid mercury with a slid irn ball flating in it and pick up a mercury-rich chunk f cinnabar, and the Idrija lace collection, which was opened in 2008 and details the histor y of the city’s lace production from its 17th century beginnings all the way up t mdern lace fashin by sme f Slvenia’s tp designers. Hwever, the single mst impressive lace piece may be the large intricate tableclth that was created by a team of 12 master lacemakers in the 1970s as a gift fr Tit’s wife Jvanka (which was never actually given t the Yugslav first lady due t a dispute with the prtcl ffice). other exhibitins nt t be missed are the s-called Mercury Twer (which cmbines mining equipment with mdern art), a cllectin f artefacts frm the time f Italian and German ccupatin, and a fine mdern ar t cllectin dnated by Idrijabrn Valentina orsini Mazza. It was named the best Eurpean eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
IdrIja
The impsing façade f Gewerkenegg Castle, pht by Dunja Wedam museum of industrial and technical heritage in 1997, an d also received Slovenia’s top museum prize in 2008. In additin t the physical premises, the museum als basts ne f the mst user-friendly and infrmati ve websites we’ve seen, which details the individual cllectins held at Gewerkenegg Castle as well as the separate sites it manages arund Idrija (the Partisan Print Shp, Miner’s Huse, etc). Q open 09:00-18:00. 09:00-18:00. Admission €3.50, children an d students €1.70.
Anthony’s Shaft Arkova 43, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11
42,
[email protected], www.rzs-idrija.si.Anthny’s www.rzs-idrija.si.Anthny’s Shaft - r Anth ny’s Main Rad as it is smetimes called, as it lng served as the mine’s main entrance - is the ldest part f Idrija’s unimaginably expansive undergrund wrld, which was once comprised of some 700km of shafts. Located at the spot where the mine was initially dug in the year 1500, an 18th century building called the Šelštev now serves as a living museum, educatin centre and entry pint fr turs int the mine itself, and is a must-see sight fr thse interested in Idrija’s rich mining histry. Mst visits begin wi th a screening f a shrt film (available in several languages) that gives a detailed histry f the mine, from its geological origins to i ts discovery in 1490 by a now legendary bucket maker and the ensuing develpment and expansin f bth the mine and twn that ccurred as a result. Special attentin i s paid t the lives f the hard-wrking miners whse sweat and bld made it pssible, and prepares viewers fr the jurney they are abut t embark n. While the majrity f the mine was backfilled befre being officially closed in 1995, part of that still open has been set up for tours, which take visitors some 100m below the ear th’s surface and prvide a firsthand experience f the cnditins the miners wrked under. one f the subterranean highlights 2012/13
IdrIja Churches Church of St Anthony and the Cavalry Thanks t its
position atop Rožna Hill overlooking Idrija below, the Church f St Anthny is the mst visible church f any in the regin, which is fitting as it was riginally built by the twn’s miners in hnur f their patrn, St Anthny f Padua, twards the end of the 17th century. The adjacent Calvary, with its 13 smaller chapels and large upper ne, which stretch their way even higher up the hill, were completed in 1766. Representing the 14 stations of the cross, despite b eing much smaller than the church they perhaps add even mre visual splendur t the entire lcatin. Th e church’s interir is f a barque style
Idrija’s Mercury Mine
What life was like wrking in Idrija’s mercury mine, pht by YMB is the 18th century chapel of the Holy Trinity, with statues depicting the patrn saints f mining, St Barbara and St Acacius. This is where the miners ffered their prayers fr successful wrk and safe return befre entering Attem’s Shaft and descending to a depth of 200m. The tur lasts arund an hur and a half, and nce yu’re back up in the light f day there’s a small gi ft shp where sadly yu can’t buy any liquid mercur y (as this wuld be illegal), but yu can ask t hld a small glas s jar f the stu ff they have behind the cunter - be careful, it weighs a cuple f kilgrams! Q Open 10:00-15:00 Tues-Fri. Tours depart at 10:00, 15:00 and 16:00 on Sat-Sun and holidays, or by prior ar rangements for groups. Admission €7, children €4, multi-vision presentation only €2. Discounts for groups of 15 or more.
Francis’ Shaft and Technical MuseumBazoviška 2,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno. si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Nw under the administratin f the Idrija City Museum, the cllectin f technical equipment and machinery at Francis’ Shaft was ne f the main beneficiaries f the massive effrt t mdernise the city’s mines shrtly after the Secnd Wrld War. Althugh it may seem like the subject matter f th e museum wuld nly appeal t a niche audience, which is bth knwledgable and enthusiastic abut centur y-ld Austrian-built steam-pwered mining winches r si x-stage centrifugal pumps f Czech rigin, the varius pieces f Idrija’s industrial past were impressive enugh t grab ur attentin fr a surprisingly bit f time. That said, if yu’re a mining nvice like us, it’s prbably best t drp by after already having visited th e City Museum’s main exhibitin space in the castle and taking the tur f Anthny’s Shaft, which will make it easier t appreciate appreciate everything in i ts larger histrical and technical cntext. Q Open 09:00-16:00. 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30. EDEN Slovenia
Quite simply put, Idrija was built upn the wrld’s secnd largest mercury mine and likely wes its existence, histry and frtune (bth gd and bad) t the nly metal that is fund in a liquid frm under standard cnditins: quicksilver, Hydragyrum, Hg, atomic number 80, mercury. Known as živo sebro (living sil ver) in Slovene, legend has it that mercury was first discvered here at the end f the 15th century by a tub maker who witnessed it trickling out f the rcks in its native frm while he was testing ut ne f his buckets in a small stream. Created in the frm f mercury rich cinnabar ore some 235 milli on years earlier during a perid f i ntense tectnic and vlcanic activity, by 1500 a small mine and smelting plant had already been established, and thus began the extractin prcess that would continue for over 500 years. The cinnabar re fund here is exceptinally h igh grade, with up to 78% mercury content, and over its five centuries of operation the mine produced a staggering 13% of all the mercury ever mined in the wrld - making it secnd nly t the famus Almadén mine in Spain, which was active fr nearly five times lnger. During an exceptinally productive period at the end of the 1 8th century, the value of mercury from Idrija’s mine accounted for 5% of the total ecnmic utput f the Habsburg Empire, an amunt that is almst unfathmable by tday’s standards. Due t bth lcal envirnmental cncerns and falling internatinal demand, the mine began a tw-decade prcess f winding dwn peratins, which included backfilling mst f the 700km of shafts out of which 107,000 tons of mercury had been carried. Nwadays visitrs can visit the building that frmerly served as the mine’s main entrance, Anthny’s Shaft, where they can watch a shrt vide presentatin explaining its histry in mre detail and take a tur thrugh a section of the mine that is still open. In June 2012, the mercury mines f Idrija and Almadén were jintly recgnised as fficial UNESCo wrld heritage sites.
The cntemprary stained glass windws at the Church f the Hly Trinity feature sme unusual images, pht by Branka Jovanović that is typical fr rural Slvenia, with th e majrity f the paintings and sculptures executed by local artists during the 19th century, including the expectedly resplendent main altar by Luka Čeferin in 1837. With the construction of th e new parish church of St Joseph the Labourer in 1969, local churchgoers are n lnger required t hike up the hill n Sunday mrnings, but it is still a ppular venue fr weddings, first cmmunins and ther ceremnies.
Church of the Holy Trinity Ulica Nikolaja Pirnata, tel. +386 (0)5 374 39 16,
[email protected]. Mre than just an active building f wrship r a mnument t ver five centuries f architectural styles, this small church perched up the hill frm the main square is the symblic hear t f Idrija and a testament t the twn’s histry f wealth, perseverance and preservatin. Set n the very spt where mercury was first discvered in 1490 - a fact that is confirmed by a still surviving document frm Udine in I taly - th e church initiall y tk the frm f t he small wden chapel, which was subsequently expanded and mdified ver the the next tw hundred years. With the cmpletin f the much larger parish church f St Barbara at the beginning of the 18th century, the Holy Trinity was left neglected and had fallen int disrepair by the middle f the 19th century, so much so that the townspeople considered turning it int a stre rm fr mercury, r even demlishing it altgether. Luckily, the archbishp f Ljubljana at the time, Aljzij Wlf, wh cincidentally happened t be frm Idrija, interceded t ensure that the church was prtected. In the early 1980s the municipality undertook lengthy reno vatins, which restred the building and furnishings, while emphasising its cntrasting stylistic elements. The ne embellishment made was the additin f sme exquisite stained glass windws arund the presbytery that cmbine Biblical themes with Idrija’s histr y, and are perhaps nw the church’s mst interesting detail.
Museums & Exhibitins
Pht by Jani Peternelj eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
13
Idrija Aquarium Prelovčeva 5, tel. +386 (0)40 33 66 99/+386 (0)5 37 71 130,
[email protected], www. akvarij-m.si.What akvarij-m.si. What started as the private cllectin f a lcal fish and reptile enthusiast enthusiast has since grwn int a full-fledged full-fledged aquarium that is nw run by the city. Despite its small size and visible spts f wear-and-tear, this place manages t pack in a dizzying number and variety f extic fish in sme three dzen separate aquariums - including piranhas, eels, eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
varius trpical species and even sme clwnfish, the latter f which will frever assciated with the film Finding Nem. A selectin f ther animals als call the premises hme, amng which are a lazy iguana, sme curius turtles and a cuple f pisn dart frgs. The highly qualified and Englishspeaking staff members will be mre than h appy t shw yu arund, pinting ut the highlights and prviding further infrmatin abut each animal. When we last visited a children’s educatin centre was als in the wrks. Q Open 14:00-19:00 Tues-Fri, 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun and holidays. Closed Mon. Admission €5, children ages 3-18 €3, under 3 free.
Idrija Military Museum Kosovelova 23, tel. +386 (0)5
377 16 88,
[email protected]. Aficinads f military histry shuldn’t miss Idrija’s petite but memrable hmage t the cnflicts and ccupatin that tk place n Slvene sil during the 20th century. What it lacks in size, it makes up fr with the sheer number f individual items n display in its three rms, which are arranged by event if nt chrnlgy. The first rm cvers the ultimately successful struggle fr natinal libera tin during Wrld War II, as well as a few items frm the cntemprary Slvene armed frces. The secnd rm is dedicated t the Wrld War I, with light equipment, unifrms and weapns used by sldiers fighting n the frntlines acrss Eurpe. While the third and largest rm has a cllectin frm the years when Idrija alng with much f the west of Slovenia was occupied by Italy (1919-1945), and also documents the country’s 10-day war of independence in 1991. With so many tightly packed items presented, it’s the kind f place that yu are practically guaranteed t see things fr the first first time, n matter matter if it’s yur first visit r yur tenth.
Miner’s House Bazoviška 4, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,
[email protected] [email protected],, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If yu cme here befre heading dwn int the tunnels belw Anthny’s Mine Shaft, the lw ceilings, dark walls and slightly miniaturis ed furnishings will likely feel claustrphbic. on the ther hand, if this is yur secnd stp f the tw, then it may feel dwnright spacius in cmparisn. The pint being, Idrija’s miners tended nt t be the largest f peple, and their hmes were built accrdingly. Cnsisting f fur flrs rising up out of a foundation not much larger than 20m 2 the huses were usually shared by several families, and are still a cmmn sight in and arund Idrija. Hwever, mst have l ng since had their interirs remdelled t incrprate mdern comforts and larger spaces, with the house at Bazoviška 4 being the nly exceptin. 2012/13
15
14
IdrIja
IdrIja
15
Churches Church of St Anthony and the Cavalry Thanks t its
position atop Rožna Hill overlooking Idrija below, the Church f St Anthny is the mst visible church f any in the regin, which is fitting as it was riginally built by the twn’s miners in hnur f their patrn, St Anthny f Padua, twards the end of the 17th century. The adjacent Calvary, with its 13 smaller chapels and large upper ne, which stretch their way even higher up the hill, were completed in 1766. Representing the 14 stations of the cross, despite b eing much smaller than the church they perhaps add even mre visual splendur t the entire lcatin. Th e church’s interir is f a barque style
Idrija’s Mercury Mine
What life was like wrking in Idrija’s mercury mine, pht by YMB is the 18th century chapel of the Holy Trinity, with statues depicting the patrn saints f mining, St Barbara and St Acacius. This is where the miners ffered their prayers fr successful wrk and safe return befre entering Attem’s Shaft and descending to a depth of 200m. The tur lasts arund an hur and a half, and nce yu’re back up in the light f day there’s a small gi ft shp where sadly yu can’t buy any liquid mercur y (as this wuld be illegal), but yu can ask t hld a small glas s jar f the stu ff they have behind the cunter - be careful, it weighs a cuple f kilgrams! Q Open 10:00-15:00 Tues-Fri. Tours depart at 10:00, 15:00 and 16:00 on Sat-Sun and holidays, or by prior ar rangements for groups. Admission €7, children €4, multi-vision presentation only €2. Discounts for groups of 15 or more.
Francis’ Shaft and Technical MuseumBazoviška 2,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno. si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Nw under the administratin f the Idrija City Museum, the cllectin f technical equipment and machinery at Francis’ Shaft was ne f the main beneficiaries f the massive effrt t mdernise the city’s mines shrtly after the Secnd Wrld War. Althugh it may seem like the subject matter f th e museum wuld nly appeal t a niche audience, which is bth knwledgable and enthusiastic abut centur y-ld Austrian-built steam-pwered mining winches r si x-stage centrifugal pumps f Czech rigin, the varius pieces f Idrija’s industrial past were impressive enugh t grab ur attentin fr a surprisingly bit f time. That said, if yu’re a mining nvice like us, it’s prbably best t drp by after already having visited th e City Museum’s main exhibitin space in the castle and taking the tur f Anthny’s Shaft, which will make it easier t appreciate appreciate everything in i ts larger histrical and technical cntext. Q Open 09:00-16:00. 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30. EDEN Slovenia
16
Quite simply put, Idrija was built upn the wrld’s secnd largest mercury mine and likely wes its existence, histry and frtune (bth gd and bad) t the nly metal that is fund in a liquid frm under standard cnditins: quicksilver, Hydragyrum, Hg, atomic number 80, mercury. Known as živo sebro (living sil ver) in Slovene, legend has it that mercury was first discvered here at the end f the 15th century by a tub maker who witnessed it trickling out f the rcks in its native frm while he was testing ut ne f his buckets in a small stream. Created in the frm f mercury rich cinnabar ore some 235 milli on years earlier during a perid f i ntense tectnic and vlcanic activity, by 1500 a small mine and smelting plant had already been established, and thus began the extractin prcess that would continue for over 500 years. The cinnabar re fund here is exceptinally h igh grade, with up to 78% mercury content, and over its five centuries of operation the mine produced a staggering 13% of all the mercury ever mined in the wrld - making it secnd nly t the famus Almadén mine in Spain, which was active fr nearly five times lnger. During an exceptinally productive period at the end of the 1 8th century, the value of mercury from Idrija’s mine accounted for 5% of the total ecnmic utput f the Habsburg Empire, an amunt that is almst unfathmable by tday’s standards. Due t bth lcal envirnmental cncerns and falling internatinal demand, the mine began a tw-decade prcess f winding dwn peratins, which included backfilling mst f the 700km of shafts out of which 107,000 tons of mercury had been carried. Nwadays visitrs can visit the building that frmerly served as the mine’s main entrance, Anthny’s Shaft, where they can watch a shrt vide presentatin explaining its histry in mre detail and take a tur thrugh a section of the mine that is still open. In June 2012, the mercury mines f Idrija and Almadén were jintly recgnised as fficial UNESCo wrld heritage sites.
The cntemprary stained glass windws at the Church f the Hly Trinity feature sme unusual images, pht by Branka Jovanović that is typical fr rural Slvenia, with th e majrity f the paintings and sculptures executed by local artists during the 19th century, including the expectedly resplendent main altar by Luka Čeferin in 1837. With the construction of th e new parish church of St Joseph the Labourer in 1969, local churchgoers are n lnger required t hike up the hill n Sunday mrnings, but it is still a ppular venue fr weddings, first cmmunins and ther ceremnies.
Church of the Holy Trinity Ulica Nikolaja Pirnata, tel. +386 (0)5 374 39 16,
[email protected]. Mre than just an active building f wrship r a mnument t ver five centuries f architectural styles, this small church perched up the hill frm the main square is the symblic hear t f Idrija and a testament t the twn’s histry f wealth, perseverance and preservatin. Set n the very spt where mercury was first discvered in 1490 - a fact that is confirmed by a still surviving document frm Udine in I taly - th e church initiall y tk the frm f t he small wden chapel, which was subsequently expanded and mdified ver the the next tw hundred years. With the cmpletin f the much larger parish church f St Barbara at the beginning of the 18th century, the Holy Trinity was left neglected and had fallen int disrepair by the middle f the 19th century, so much so that the townspeople considered turning it int a stre rm fr mercury, r even demlishing it altgether. Luckily, the archbishp f Ljubljana at the time, Aljzij Wlf, wh cincidentally happened t be frm Idrija, interceded t ensure that the church was prtected. In the early 1980s the municipality undertook lengthy reno vatins, which restred the building and furnishings, while emphasising its cntrasting stylistic elements. The ne embellishment made was the additin f sme exquisite stained glass windws arund the presbytery that cmbine Biblical themes with Idrija’s histr y, and are perhaps nw the church’s mst interesting detail.
Museums & Exhibitins
Pht by Jani Peternelj eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Idrija Aquarium Prelovčeva 5, tel. +386 (0)40 33 66 99/+386 (0)5 37 71 130,
[email protected], www. akvarij-m.si.What akvarij-m.si. What started as the private cllectin f a lcal fish and reptile enthusiast enthusiast has since grwn int a full-fledged full-fledged aquarium that is nw run by the city. Despite its small size and visible spts f wear-and-tear, this place manages t pack in a dizzying number and variety f extic fish in sme three dzen separate aquariums - including piranhas, eels,
varius trpical species and even sme clwnfish, the latter f which will frever assciated with the film Finding Nem. A selectin f ther animals als call the premises hme, amng which are a lazy iguana, sme curius turtles and a cuple f pisn dart frgs. The highly qualified and Englishspeaking staff members will be mre than h appy t shw yu arund, pinting ut the highlights and prviding further infrmatin abut each animal. When we last visited a children’s educatin centre was als in the wrks. Q Open 14:00-19:00 Tues-Fri, 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun and holidays. Closed Mon. Admission €5, children ages 3-18 €3, under 3 free.
Idrija Military Museum Kosovelova 23, tel. +386 (0)5
377 16 88,
[email protected]. Aficinads f military histry shuldn’t miss Idrija’s petite but memrable hmage t the cnflicts and ccupatin that tk place n Slvene sil during the 20th century. What it lacks in size, it makes up fr with the sheer number f individual items n display in its three rms, which are arranged by event if nt chrnlgy. The first rm cvers the ultimately successful struggle fr natinal libera tin during Wrld War II, as well as a few items frm the cntemprary Slvene armed frces. The secnd rm is dedicated t the Wrld War I, with light equipment, unifrms and weapns used by sldiers fighting n the frntlines acrss Eurpe. While the third and largest rm has a cllectin frm the years when Idrija alng with much f the west of Slovenia was occupied by Italy (1919-1945), and also documents the country’s 10-day war of independence in 1991. With so many tightly packed items presented, it’s the kind f place that yu are practically guaranteed t see things fr the first first time, n matter matter if it’s yur first visit r yur tenth.
Miner’s House Bazoviška 4, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,
[email protected] [email protected],, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If yu cme here befre heading dwn int the tunnels belw Anthny’s Mine Shaft, the lw ceilings, dark walls and slightly miniaturis ed furnishings will likely feel claustrphbic. on the ther hand, if this is yur secnd stp f the tw, then it may feel dwnright spacius in cmparisn. The pint being, Idrija’s miners tended nt t be the largest f peple, and their hmes were built accrdingly. Cnsisting f fur flrs rising up out of a foundation not much larger than 20m 2 the huses were usually shared by several families, and are still a cmmn sight in and arund Idrija. Hwever, mst have l ng since had their interirs remdelled t incrprate mdern comforts and larger spaces, with the house at Bazoviška 4 being the nly exceptin.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
IdrIja
The mysterius Wild Lake is ne f the main attractins f the Zgornja Idrijca Landscape Park, photo by Samo Trebižan Dating back to 18th century, the house was purchased by the Idrija Municipal Museum in 1985, and is n ow a protected cultural mnument after being painstakingly restred t its riginal cnditin. on the grund flr there’s a traditinal ‘black kitchen’ used fr cking, a li ving rm area cmplete with bard games and heirlms, and a tiny bedrm with a pint-sized bed fr tw - which ur guide slyly credited as ne f the reasn wmen in Idrija used t have s many children. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30.
Natural Heritage Divje Jezero Literally translated as ‘wild lake’, there’s mre t this small pl f water than meets the eye. Fund nly a couple of kilometres south of Idrija, at the base of nearly 100m high sheer rck cliffs, the setting is undeniably impressive,
Sport Fishing on the Idrijca The crystal clear waters f the Idrijca ri ver make fr sme prime fishing grunds - a fact that the l cals have knwn and taken advantage of since at least the 13th century. In fact, it was s ppular an activity that by the beginning of the 20th century the river’s fish stocks had become dangerusly depleted, leading t the frmatin f Idrija’s first fishi ng associ ation in 1947. Si nce then, carefu l preservatin and reppulatin measures have lead t a marked increase in fish, and the river nw regularly attracts prfessinal anglers and amateur enthusiasts frm all f Eurpe. Fishing licenses can be bu ght at numerus locations around town - including Hotel Jožef, where guests receive a 20% discount - with prices dependin g on where exactly yu’d like t fish.
IdrIja especially during the spring mnths when several varieties f native flwers cver the surrunding area in a carpet f white, yellw and intense purple blssms. While we were admittedly sceptical when first tld by lcals that the lake was bttmless, nt nly is this claim true, but several experienced divers have lst their lives trying t find its subterranean surce. What is currently knwn fr sure is that the lake riginates frm a Vauclusian karst spring f at least 400m in length and more than 160m in depth, and is the secnd mst imprtant spring f this type in all f Eurpe - with nly the namesake spring utside the village f Vaucluse in Avignn, France mre well-knwn. Fed by a series f undergrun d waterways that cver an area of some 125km2 abve grund, during the heaviest rains the lake can discharge an enormous 100m 3 f water per secnd into the 55m long Jezernica river (which is the shortest in Slvenia), while during the drier autumn mnths the flw can slow to a trickle and th e river completely disappears. In 1967, the area was designated as the first prtected natural mnument in Slvenia, and nw includes a small walking path, signs detailing sme f the extensi ve flra and fauna and benches n which t rest while cntemplating the magnitude f what lies beneath the turquise surface.
Rake Water Chanel and Footpath Cnstructed sme
400 years ago to power the massive kamšt (or water wheel pump) utside Jseph’s Shaft mine entran ce, the Rake water channel runs nearly 3km int the Zgrnja Idrijca landscape park t the Kbila Dam. The riginal wden structure was replaced by brick and stone in the mid-18th century, and while the flwing water n lnger pwers the kamšt, it is still used t this day t generate pwer at Lenštat hydr-electric plant. The pathway is well-kept, even during the snwy winter mnths, and is extremely ppular with lcals, with dctrs ften prescribing daily walks t patients recvering frm heart prblems. Fr thse interested in the regin’s diverse plant life, there are infrmative signs psted alng the length f the trail, beginning with the Scpli Memrial Garden, which is named after Jhannes Antnius Scpli, Idrija’s first dctr and an avid btanist wh wrte extensively n the area’s vegetatin amng ther tpics. At the path’s ppsite end, the reservir behin d the sizeable dam was a popular swimming spot in the 1960s and 70s, with ample phtgraphic evidence shwing lcals enjying themselves during the summer, but nwadays is mst ntable fr the karst springs that flw ut f the rcks next t it. Frm this pint trails lead further int the landscape park, and yu can als reach
EDEN Slovenia
Pht by Jani Peternelj Mercury and lace are indeed an dd cuple, but they are als the tw things mst inextricably cnnected t bth Idrija’s past and present - mercury being the main driver of its economy for nearly 500 years, while its centuries-ld lacemaking traditin has mre recently becme the mst recgnisable symbl f the twn. The ldest dcument that mentins Idrija’s lacemaking is from the very end of the 17th century, but the traditin almst certainly dates back much further as at this time tradesmen were already buying finished lace prducts frm lcal wmen wh prduced it in their hmes while their husbands were at wrk in the mines. Far frm being just a hbby, the craft prvided a valuable secnd surce f incme fr lcal families. It was not until the end of the 19th century that the prductin f lace mved frm individual hmes and becme a mre standardised industry in Idrija. Credit fr this transfrmatin is ften given t a yung local lady, Ivanka Ferjančič, who brought lacemakin g to the attentin f sme imprtant peple in Vienna and lbbied fr the establishment f Idrija’s first lacemaking school in 1876. Ms Ferjančič became the school’s firs t tea cher, but unf rtu nate ly d ied thre e yea rs later at the age of only 29. However, her memory will never be frgtten, and thanks t her wrk the schl is still operating today with up to 400 part-time students at any given time.
Fishing Association of Idrija (Ribiška Družina Idrija)
[email protected], www.rd-idrija.si. The lcal
fishing ass ciatin in Idrija is an invaluable resurce fr visiting anglers. Their multi-lingual website includes everything yu nee d knw abut different fishing districts in the regin and the di fferent fferent types f fish they cntain. An d if yu can‘t find what yu need, they are glad t respnd t any enquiries sent via email.
Idrija Lace
The Rake ftpath is Idrija’s mst ppular jgging rute, pht by Dunja Wedam eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
of the many exhibitins and galleries lcated in and arund Idrija’s ld twn, the best place t view the histry f the traditin and the see exquisite examples f finish ed lace prducts is the mul ti-r m exhibiti n at the City Museum that was opened in 2008. And of course there is als the annual Idrija Lace Festival, which is held on the third weekend in June and is now in its 32 year.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Lace Shps Čipka Art 2000 Mestni Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)5 37 22
537,
[email protected]. Q Open 09:00-18:00. Clsed Sun in winter. Čipkarska Šola Idrija Prelovčeva 2, tel. + 386 (0)5 37 34 570,
[email protected], www.cipkarskasola.si. QOpen 09:00-12:00, Wed 09:00-17:00. Clsed Sat-Sun. Šiviljstvo Mal Lidija Anzelm Prelovčeva 9, Castle Gewerkenegg, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 788. Qopen 09:00 - 18:00. Studio Irma Vončina Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)5 377 15 84,
[email protected]. Q Open 10:0012:00 and 13:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Studio Koder Mestni Trg 16, tel. + 386 (0)5 37 71 359,
[email protected]. Q Open 10:00-12:00 and 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Trgovina Vanda Mestni Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 444,
[email protected], www.vanda-lapajne.si. Q Open Tues-Wed 16:00-19:00, Thur-Fri 09:00-12:00. Clsed Sat-Mn.
Pht by Dunja Wedam 2012/13
17
16
IdrIja
The mysterius Wild Lake is ne f the main attractins f the Zgornja Idrijca Landscape Park, photo by Samo Trebižan Dating back to 18th century, the house was purchased by the Idrija Municipal Museum in 1985, and is n ow a protected cultural mnument after being painstakingly restred t its riginal cnditin. on the grund flr there’s a traditinal ‘black kitchen’ used fr cking, a li ving rm area cmplete with bard games and heirlms, and a tiny bedrm with a pint-sized bed fr tw - which ur guide slyly credited as ne f the reasn wmen in Idrija used t have s many children. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30.
Natural Heritage Divje Jezero Literally translated as ‘wild lake’, there’s mre t this small pl f water than meets the eye. Fund nly a couple of kilometres south of Idrija, at the base of nearly 100m high sheer rck cliffs, the setting is undeniably impressive,
Sport Fishing on the Idrijca The crystal clear waters f the Idrijca ri ver make fr sme prime fishing grunds - a fact that the l cals have knwn and taken advantage of since at least the 13th century. In fact, it was s ppular an activity that by the beginning of the 20th century the river’s fish stocks had become dangerusly depleted, leading t the frmatin f Idrija’s first fishi ng associ ation in 1947. Si nce then, carefu l preservatin and reppulatin measures have lead t a marked increase in fish, and the river nw regularly attracts prfessinal anglers and amateur enthusiasts frm all f Eurpe. Fishing licenses can be bu ght at numerus locations around town - including Hotel Jožef, where guests receive a 20% discount - with prices dependin g on where exactly yu’d like t fish.
IdrIja especially during the spring mnths when several varieties f native flwers cver the surrunding area in a carpet f white, yellw and intense purple blssms. While we were admittedly sceptical when first tld by lcals that the lake was bttmless, nt nly is this claim true, but several experienced divers have lst their lives trying t find its subterranean surce. What is currently knwn fr sure is that the lake riginates frm a Vauclusian karst spring f at least 400m in length and more than 160m in depth, and is the secnd mst imprtant spring f this type in all f Eurpe - with nly the namesake spring utside the village f Vaucluse in Avignn, France mre well-knwn. Fed by a series f undergrun d waterways that cver an area of some 125km2 abve grund, during the heaviest rains the lake can discharge an enormous 100m 3 f water per secnd into the 55m long Jezernica river (which is the shortest in Slvenia), while during the drier autumn mnths the flw can slow to a trickle and th e river completely disappears. In 1967, the area was designated as the first prtected natural mnument in Slvenia, and nw includes a small walking path, signs detailing sme f the extensi ve flra and fauna and benches n which t rest while cntemplating the magnitude f what lies beneath the turquise surface.
EDEN Slovenia
18
Idrija Lace
Rake Water Chanel and Footpath Cnstructed sme
400 years ago to power the massive kamšt (or water wheel pump) utside Jseph’s Shaft mine entran ce, the Rake water channel runs nearly 3km int the Zgrnja Idrijca landscape park t the Kbila Dam. The riginal wden structure was replaced by brick and stone in the mid-18th century, and while the flwing water n lnger pwers the kamšt, it is still used t this day t generate pwer at Lenštat hydr-electric plant. The pathway is well-kept, even during the snwy winter mnths, and is extremely ppular with lcals, with dctrs ften prescribing daily walks t patients recvering frm heart prblems. Fr thse interested in the regin’s diverse plant life, there are infrmative signs psted alng the length f the trail, beginning with the Scpli Memrial Garden, which is named after Jhannes Antnius Scpli, Idrija’s first dctr and an avid btanist wh wrte extensively n the area’s vegetatin amng ther tpics. At the path’s ppsite end, the reservir behin d the sizeable dam was a popular swimming spot in the 1960s and 70s, with ample phtgraphic evidence shwing lcals enjying themselves during the summer, but nwadays is mst ntable fr the karst springs that flw ut f the rcks next t it. Frm this pint trails lead further int the landscape park, and yu can als reach
Pht by Jani Peternelj Mercury and lace are indeed an dd cuple, but they are als the tw things mst inextricably cnnected t bth Idrija’s past and present - mercury being the main driver of its economy for nearly 500 years, while its centuries-ld lacemaking traditin has mre recently becme the mst recgnisable symbl f the twn. The ldest dcument that mentins Idrija’s lacemaking is from the very end of the 17th century, but the traditin almst certainly dates back much further as at this time tradesmen were already buying finished lace prducts frm lcal wmen wh prduced it in their hmes while their husbands were at wrk in the mines. Far frm being just a hbby, the craft prvided a valuable secnd surce f incme fr lcal families. It was not until the end of the 19th century that the prductin f lace mved frm individual hmes and becme a mre standardised industry in Idrija. Credit fr this transfrmatin is ften given t a yung local lady, Ivanka Ferjančič, who brought lacemakin g to the attentin f sme imprtant peple in Vienna and lbbied fr the establishment f Idrija’s first lacemaking school in 1876. Ms Ferjančič became the school’s firs t tea cher, but unf rtu nate ly d ied thre e yea rs later at the age of only 29. However, her memory will never be frgtten, and thanks t her wrk the schl is still operating today with up to 400 part-time students at any given time.
Fishing Association of Idrija (Ribiška Družina Idrija)
[email protected], www.rd-idrija.si. The lcal
fishing ass ciatin in Idrija is an invaluable resurce fr visiting anglers. Their multi-lingual website includes everything yu nee d knw abut different fishing districts in the regin and the di fferent fferent types f fish they cntain. An d if yu can‘t find what yu need, they are glad t respnd t any enquiries sent via email.
The Rake ftpath is Idrija’s mst ppular jgging rute, pht by Dunja Wedam eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Lace Shps Čipka Art 2000 Mestni Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)5 37 22
537,
[email protected]. Q Open 09:00-18:00. Clsed Sun in winter. Čipkarska Šola Idrija Prelovčeva 2, tel. + 386 (0)5 37 34 570,
[email protected], www.cipkarskasola.si. QOpen 09:00-12:00, Wed 09:00-17:00. Clsed Sat-Sun. Šiviljstvo Mal Lidija Anzelm Prelovčeva 9, Castle Gewerkenegg, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 788. Qopen 09:00 - 18:00. Studio Irma Vončina Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)5 377 15 84,
[email protected]. Q Open 10:0012:00 and 13:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Studio Koder Mestni Trg 16, tel. + 386 (0)5 37 71 359,
[email protected]. Q Open 10:00-12:00 and 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Trgovina Vanda Mestni Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 444,
[email protected], www.vanda-lapajne.si. Q Open Tues-Wed 16:00-19:00, Thur-Fri 09:00-12:00. Clsed Sat-Mn.
of the many exhibitins and galleries lcated in and arund Idrija’s ld twn, the best place t view the histry f the traditin and the see exquisite examples f finish ed lace prducts is the mul ti-r m exhibiti n at the City Museum that was opened in 2008. And of course there is als the annual Idrija Lace Festival, which is held on the third weekend in June and is now in its 32 year.
Pht by Dunja Wedam
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
IdrIja
IdrIja stne. The fremst architect f these mnumental water barriers was lcal Renaissance man Jseph Mrak, a mining expert, cartgrapher, cave tpgrapher, painter and builder, wh als designed a mechanism fr mre efficiently pening and closing the Klaže’s massive doors that controlled the release f water. water. This system was in use until the 1920s, after which they fell int a state f disrepair and slwl y began t deterirate. Hwever, ever, in th e 1980s several of them were restored and are now prtected as a unique par t f Idrija’s technlgical and cultural heritage, and can be visited independently r with a guide.
Idrija Žlikrofi often described as a ravili-type dish, Idrija’s famus žlikrofi dumplings were the first Slovene dish to receive recgnitin and prtectin under the EU’s Traditinal Traditinal Speciality Guaranteed label, which took place in 2010, sme eight years after it had been granted traditinal prduct status dmestically by the Slvenian Ministry f Agriculture. While the cmparisn t Italian ravili is nt cmpletely unfounded, as žlikrofi are essentially stuffed pasta dump lings that are biled - indeed even we had lng assumed this relatin befre we first tried them urselves - they are a cmpletely unique culinary speciality. And in fact, they are thught t have first cme t Idrija by way f a German mining family sometime early in the 19th century, as the name bears sme resemblance t the German wrd ‘schlichtkrapfen’ r ‘slippery dumpling’. Althugh the exact rigins are still, and will likely remain, unclear, as a matter f histrical re crd they had already becme well-known in Idrija by the mid-19th century. Regardless f where they came frm, the end result is tasty, r at least has been every time we’ve had them. The filling cnsists f mashed ptates mixed with smked bacn (r fried lard), nins and varius seasnings and herbs, which is then wrapped in h memade egg flur dugh a nd frmed int smet hing f a ha t shape. But what really makes žlikrofi special are the sauces tha t accmpany them, with muttn r rabbit with vegetables (bakalca) being the mst cmmn, and lcal restaurants usually having at least a half dzen ptin s and sme f fering a dzen r mre, includin g sweet dessert versins that are filled with minced walnuts. As the lcals say: if you haven’t tried žlikrofi, then you haven’t been to Idrija!
Feast of Idrija Žlikrofi
Held the first Saturday each September, this culinary event aims to promote Idrija’s traditional žlikrofi with a series f wrkshps, demnstratins, tastings and ther events. If yu’ve never had the chance t taste these famus dumplings then this is a great chance t see what yu’ve been missing - and even if yu have, it’s a great excuse t pay Idrija anther visit.
Turist Farms
The Kamšt is the largest wden water wheel in Eurpe, photo by Samo Trebižan
Technical Heritage Kamšt Water Wheel Vodnikova, tel. +386 (0)5 37
26 600,
[email protected], www.muzejidrija-cerkno.si. While the aged stne building surrunded by sprts fields and tennis curts alng a bend in the Idrijca River is impressive enugh frm the utside, the façade gives few hints as t the magnitude f what’s cntained within i ts walls: namely, the largest wden wheel in Eurpe. M easuring 13.6 metres in diameter, diameter, this absurdly large stru cture was built in 1790, and operated more or less continuously until 1948. Idrija’s miners began building such wheels as far back as th e end of the 16th century in order to supply power for lifting re and pumping water ut f the pits. Smewhat irnically, they were als pwered by water, which in this case came from a channel that was di verted 3.5km u priver and still serves as a ppular jgging path nwadays. When it was peratinal the wheel rtated at the very judicius rate f 4.5 revolutions per minute and managed only a mo dest 100 hrse-pwer, hwever, thanks t its girth it was still able t pump approximately 300 litres of water per minute from depths of almost 300 metres. Althugh the wheel and its premises were cmpletely restred in recent years (and lk as if they culd have just been built!), nt nly is everything riginal, but it’s als the last remaining device f its type in Slvenia that is still in its riginal lcatin. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30.
Turistična Kmetija Pr’ Jureč Ledine 19, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 37 79 096/+386 (0)41 919 473,
[email protected], www.pr-jurec.net.Set www.pr-jurec.net.Set in the hills high above Idrija on the Ledine Plateau, Pr’ Jureč is a tourist farm unlike any f the many thers we’ve had the pleasure f visi ting in Slvenia. While they serve up delectable hmemade cuisine and ffer seemingly limitless glasses f excellent Slvene wine, what really sets the place apart is what they have hidden in the barn. Calling it simply an ethnlgical museum wuld be a grave disservice, as the numerus i tems n display are nt nly meant t be viewed, but are als put t their intended uses by the eager curatr, tur guide and wner f the farm Dušan Bgataj. An excitable fellw, Mr Bgataj leads grups thrugh a cmprehensive cllectin f tls, equipment and persnal pssessins that had been passed dwn frm previus generatins, and in sme cases stred fr nearly tw centuries befre being dusted ff and put back int service. Every facet f rural life is n display here frm she repair and cking utensils t large hrse-drawn plughs and more modern 20th century tractors. Perhaps the most in teresting - and smetimes interactive - part f the tur is an educatinal demnstratin f hw ne f humanities mst basic ingredients, flur, is prduced, which begins with a pile f wheat and ends with a laf f bread fresh ut f the ven f Mrs Bgataj. of curse as with many things in Slvenia, the tur is nt finished until yu’ve sampled a few glasses f hmemade schnapps. A highly infrmative, entertaining and tasty place t visit indeed.
Klavže The s-called ‘pyramids f Slvenia’ are anther f
Žlikrofi with traditional bakalca sauce, photo by Andrej Križ EDEN Slovenia
17
Idrija’s sights that are inextricably cnnected with the twn’s mining histry. Melting dwn the mercury-rich cinnabar re extracted frm the earth in rder t btain mre easily transprtable pure liquid mercury was an energy intensive task, which required huge amunts f timber t be burned t heat furnaces to some 600°C. Luckily Idrija was - and thanks t gd management still is - surrunded by vast frests. Hwever, getting the fallen trees frm the surrunding cuntryside t the smel ting plants was a tricky matter in the time befre mechanised transpr t and mdern lgging equipment. T vercme this prblem, an ingenius system was implemented whereby trees were slid dwn hillsides t small riverbe ds, where dams were built and reservirs were released t carry the wd all the way int twn. Towards the end of the 16th century these structures, or Klavže as they are known, were made of wood themselves, but by the end of the 18th century the design had been refined and they were nw mre sundly cnstructed f brick and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Around Idrija Partisan Cemetery This burial grund fr the parti-
san fighters who lost their lives in April 1945 at a major battle near Vojščica on the Vojsko Plateau is one of the largest and mst visually interesting Wrld War II memrials yu’ll see anywhere in Slvenia. Set in an pen field a few kilmetres t the nrt h f the village f Vjsk, the site cnsists f three dzen r s runded stnes f dif ferent sizes bearing the names of the 305 brave soldiers from the 9th Co rps who perished here, an d the entire grund is surrunded by a shr t stne wall. This area was a fcal pint f the natinal liberatin struggle against the ccupying frces, and saw frequent fighting during the war, hwever, this was ne f the bldiest days and ccurred less than a mnth befre the war came t an end in Slvene territry. A visit here can easily be cmbined with the nearby Partisan Printing Shp, ideally n a day hike acrss the larger Vjsk Plateau.
Slovenian Partisan Printing Shop Vojsko 64,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,
[email protected], www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si.IfIf the exhibitin f riginal printed wrks at the City Museum pique yur interest, a fllw-up trip t the legendary partisan printing shp hidden away in the frest belw Vjsk plateau is a must. First set up in September 1944, to call it simply a ‘printing shp’ is a vast understatement, as the facilities are cmprised f an engine rm, kitchen, dining rm, cmpsing rm, binding statin and an electric power plant, where between 40-50 people at a time worked until May 1945. The trickiest endeavur in setting up the place was prcuring the mdern electric printing machine, which was purchased in Milan at a cst f ver ne millin Italian lira, disassembled and transferred illegally t the newly cnstructed facilities. Hwever, the mney and effrt were well spent, as the machine is still peratinal t this day. During its eight mnths f peratin, the main activity was printing the Partisan Daily, which had a circulation of between 4000 and 7000 copies and has the rather impressive distinction f being the nly dail y ppsitin newspaper printed in all f ccupied Eurpe. Numerus brchures, leaflets, flyers a nd ther items were a ls pri nted, an d many f these as well as the riginal lincuts and engraved lead seals can be viewed bth here and in the City M useum. Q Open daily 09:00-16:00 from 15 April to 15 Octob er. Admission €2, children €1.30.
Turist Agencies
Klažve, the so-called pyramids of Idrija, photo by Samo Trebižan eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Active Idrija Tourist Agency Mestni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)31 291 263/+386 (0)31 601 620, info@ active-idrija.com, active-idrija.com, www.active-idrija.com. www.active-idrija.com.In additin t all f Idrija’s natural, cultural and technical heri tage sites, the surrunding regin als ffers many sprts activities - and the prfessinally trained instructrs and guides at Active Idrija make make taking advantage f these pprtuni ties easy. Sme f their mst ppular activities in clude hiking, muntain biking, rck climbing and hrseback riding, while ther pssibilities include spending the day with a lcal hunter (viewing and tracking animals) r taking a scenic ff-rad guided guided tur n remte gravel rads an d muntain tracks. Prices and itineraries f all activities are fixed and available n the agency’s website, but can als be tailred t meet the individual needs and wishes f custmers. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 an d 16:00-18:00. 2012/13
19
18
IdrIja
IdrIja stne. The fremst architect f these mnumental water barriers was lcal Renaissance man Jseph Mrak, a mining expert, cartgrapher, cave tpgrapher, painter and builder, wh als designed a mechanism fr mre efficiently pening and closing the Klaže’s massive doors that controlled the release f water. water. This system was in use until the 1920s, after which they fell int a state f disrepair and slwl y began t deterirate. Hwever, ever, in th e 1980s several of them were restored and are now prtected as a unique par t f Idrija’s technlgical and cultural heritage, and can be visited independently r with a guide.
Idrija Žlikrofi often described as a ravili-type dish, Idrija’s famus žlikrofi dumplings were the first Slovene dish to receive recgnitin and prtectin under the EU’s Traditinal Traditinal Speciality Guaranteed label, which took place in 2010, sme eight years after it had been granted traditinal prduct status dmestically by the Slvenian Ministry f Agriculture. While the cmparisn t Italian ravili is nt cmpletely unfounded, as žlikrofi are essentially stuffed pasta dump lings that are biled - indeed even we had lng assumed this relatin befre we first tried them urselves - they are a cmpletely unique culinary speciality. And in fact, they are thught t have first cme t Idrija by way f a German mining family sometime early in the 19th century, as the name bears sme resemblance t the German wrd ‘schlichtkrapfen’ r ‘slippery dumpling’. Althugh the exact rigins are still, and will likely remain, unclear, as a matter f histrical re crd they had already becme well-known in Idrija by the mid-19th century. Regardless f where they came frm, the end result is tasty, r at least has been every time we’ve had them. The filling cnsists f mashed ptates mixed with smked bacn (r fried lard), nins and varius seasnings and herbs, which is then wrapped in h memade egg flur dugh a nd frmed int smet hing f a ha t shape. But what really makes žlikrofi special are the sauces tha t accmpany them, with muttn r rabbit with vegetables (bakalca) being the mst cmmn, and lcal restaurants usually having at least a half dzen ptin s and sme f fering a dzen r mre, includin g sweet dessert versins that are filled with minced walnuts. As the lcals say: if you haven’t tried žlikrofi, then you haven’t been to Idrija!
Feast of Idrija Žlikrofi
Held the first Saturday each September, this culinary event aims to promote Idrija’s traditional žlikrofi with a series f wrkshps, demnstratins, tastings and ther events. If yu’ve never had the chance t taste these famus dumplings then this is a great chance t see what yu’ve been missing - and even if yu have, it’s a great excuse t pay Idrija anther visit.
Turist Farms
The Kamšt is the largest wden water wheel in Eurpe, photo by Samo Trebižan
Technical Heritage Kamšt Water Wheel Vodnikova, tel. +386 (0)5 37
26 600,
[email protected], www.muzejidrija-cerkno.si. While the aged stne building surrunded by sprts fields and tennis curts alng a bend in the Idrijca River is impressive enugh frm the utside, the façade gives few hints as t the magnitude f what’s cntained within i ts walls: namely, the largest wden wheel in Eurpe. M easuring 13.6 metres in diameter, diameter, this absurdly large stru cture was built in 1790, and operated more or less continuously until 1948. Idrija’s miners began building such wheels as far back as th e end of the 16th century in order to supply power for lifting re and pumping water ut f the pits. Smewhat irnically, they were als pwered by water, which in this case came from a channel that was di verted 3.5km u priver and still serves as a ppular jgging path nwadays. When it was peratinal the wheel rtated at the very judicius rate f 4.5 revolutions per minute and managed only a mo dest 100 hrse-pwer, hwever, thanks t its girth it was still able t pump approximately 300 litres of water per minute from depths of almost 300 metres. Althugh the wheel and its premises were cmpletely restred in recent years (and lk as if they culd have just been built!), nt nly is everything riginal, but it’s als the last remaining device f its type in Slvenia that is still in its riginal lcatin. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission €2, children and students €1.30.
Turistična Kmetija Pr’ Jureč Ledine 19, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 37 79 096/+386 (0)41 919 473,
[email protected], www.pr-jurec.net.Set www.pr-jurec.net.Set in the hills high above Idrija on the Ledine Plateau, Pr’ Jureč is a tourist farm unlike any f the many thers we’ve had the pleasure f visi ting in Slvenia. While they serve up delectable hmemade cuisine and ffer seemingly limitless glasses f excellent Slvene wine, what really sets the place apart is what they have hidden in the barn. Calling it simply an ethnlgical museum wuld be a grave disservice, as the numerus i tems n display are nt nly meant t be viewed, but are als put t their intended uses by the eager curatr, tur guide and wner f the farm Dušan Bgataj. An excitable fellw, Mr Bgataj leads grups thrugh a cmprehensive cllectin f tls, equipment and persnal pssessins that had been passed dwn frm previus generatins, and in sme cases stred fr nearly tw centuries befre being dusted ff and put back int service. Every facet f rural life is n display here frm she repair and cking utensils t large hrse-drawn plughs and more modern 20th century tractors. Perhaps the most in teresting - and smetimes interactive - part f the tur is an educatinal demnstratin f hw ne f humanities mst basic ingredients, flur, is prduced, which begins with a pile f wheat and ends with a laf f bread fresh ut f the ven f Mrs Bgataj. of curse as with many things in Slvenia, the tur is nt finished until yu’ve sampled a few glasses f hmemade schnapps. A highly infrmative, entertaining and tasty place t visit indeed.
Klavže The s-called ‘pyramids f Slvenia’ are anther f
Žlikrofi with traditional bakalca sauce, photo by Andrej Križ EDEN Slovenia
20
Idrija’s sights that are inextricably cnnected with the twn’s mining histry. Melting dwn the mercury-rich cinnabar re extracted frm the earth in rder t btain mre easily transprtable pure liquid mercury was an energy intensive task, which required huge amunts f timber t be burned t heat furnaces to some 600°C. Luckily Idrija was - and thanks t gd management still is - surrunded by vast frests. Hwever, getting the fallen trees frm the surrunding cuntryside t the smel ting plants was a tricky matter in the time befre mechanised transpr t and mdern lgging equipment. T vercme this prblem, an ingenius system was implemented whereby trees were slid dwn hillsides t small riverbe ds, where dams were built and reservirs were released t carry the wd all the way int twn. Towards the end of the 16th century these structures, or Klavže as they are known, were made of wood themselves, but by the end of the 18th century the design had been refined and they were nw mre sundly cnstructed f brick and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Klažve, the so-called pyramids of Idrija, photo by Samo Trebižan
Črnomelj
The mst cnvenient way t reach and explre the Klpa river is with yur wn car. If yu’re headed t the areas of the upper river from Ljubljana, Route 106 will take you directly to Kočevje in about an hour, and then it’s just a matter f fllwing the sign suth frm there t Kstel and osilnica. If the slwer mving waters f the lwer river EDEN Slovenia
san fighters who lost their lives in April 1945 at a major battle near Vojščica on the Vojsko Plateau is one of the largest and mst visually interesting Wrld War II memrials yu’ll see anywhere in Slvenia. Set in an pen field a few kilmetres t the nrt h f the village f Vjsk, the site cnsists f three dzen r s runded stnes f dif ferent sizes bearing the names of the 305 brave soldiers from the 9th Co rps who perished here, an d the entire grund is surrunded by a shr t stne wall. This area was a fcal pint f the natinal liberatin struggle against the ccupying frces, and saw frequent fighting during the war, hwever, this was ne f the bldiest days and ccurred less than a mnth befre the war came t an end in Slvene territry. A visit here can easily be cmbined with the nearby Partisan Printing Shp, ideally n a day hike acrss the larger Vjsk Plateau.
Slovenian Partisan Printing Shop Vojsko 64,
tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,
[email protected], www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si.IfIf the exhibitin f riginal printed wrks at the City Museum pique yur interest, a fllw-up trip t the legendary partisan printing shp hidden away in the frest belw Vjsk plateau is a must. First set up in September 1944, to call it simply a ‘printing shp’ is a vast understatement, as the facilities are cmprised f an engine rm, kitchen, dining rm, cmpsing rm, binding statin and an electric power plant, where between 40-50 people at a time worked until May 1945. The trickiest endeavur in setting up the place was prcuring the mdern electric printing machine, which was purchased in Milan at a cst f ver ne millin Italian lira, disassembled and transferred illegally t the newly cnstructed facilities. Hwever, the mney and effrt were well spent, as the machine is still peratinal t this day. During its eight mnths f peratin, the main activity was printing the Partisan Daily, which had a circulation of between 4000 and 7000 copies and has the rather impressive distinction f being the nly dail y ppsitin newspaper printed in all f ccupied Eurpe. Numerus brchures, leaflets, flyers a nd ther items were a ls pri nted, an d many f these as well as the riginal lincuts and engraved lead seals can be viewed bth here and in the City M useum. Q Open daily 09:00-16:00 from 15 April to 15 Octob er. Admission €2, children €1.30.
Active Idrija Tourist Agency Mestni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)31 291 263/+386 (0)31 601 620, info@ active-idrija.com, active-idrija.com, www.active-idrija.com. www.active-idrija.com.In additin t all f Idrija’s natural, cultural and technical heri tage sites, the surrunding regin als ffers many sprts activities - and the prfessinally trained instructrs and guides at Active Idrija make make taking advantage f these pprtuni ties easy. Sme f their mst ppular activities in clude hiking, muntain biking, rck climbing and hrseback riding, while ther pssibilities include spending the day with a lcal hunter (viewing and tracking animals) r taking a scenic ff-rad guided guided tur n remte gravel rads an d muntain tracks. Prices and itineraries f all activities are fixed and available n the agency’s website, but can als be tailred t meet the individual needs and wishes f custmers. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 an d 16:00-18:00. 2012/13
Kolpa RiveR
The varied landscape f Bela Krajina ffers sme great pprtunities fr hiking and cycling, and the lcal turist ffices have prduced sme excellent free guides detailing ver a dzen specific rutes that can be cvered bth n ft r by bike, and can als prvide inf n renting bikes. The very useful 3-D maps make reading the lay f the land easy, and each rute has a lengthy descriptin f the sights and attr actins t watch ut fr alng th e way, as well as technical inf abut the length, difficulty and average duratin f the trips. The mst ppular cycling rutes fr turists are unsurprisingly thse that fllw alng the Klpa river, althugh we are persnally fnd f the paths that fllw the seemingly endless vin eyards running along the edge of the valley east of Črnomelj all the way to Semič and beyond. Hikers also have a wide variety f paths t chse frm, and rganised hikes take place thrughut the year.
Arriving
Partisan Cemetery This burial grund fr the parti-
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Bela Krajina Hiking and Cycling Paths
Named a European Destination of Excellence in 2010, the pristine Klpa river is ften re ferred t as Slvenia’s lngest castline. While this distinctin is meant t have a bit f fun at the expense of the country’s diminutive 47km long Mediterranean cast, it’s mre a testament t the Klpa’s ppularity as an aquatic destinatin, especially during the ht summer mnths when the water f th e lwer river can reach a bath-like 30°C. Forming some 113km of Slovenia’s (Schengen) brder with Cratia, the river begins its jurney in osilnica, the cuntry’s smallest municipality and the land f Peter Klepec. Frm there it winds i ts way thrugh the breathtaking green hill s f Klpa Grge, past Kstel’s famous castle and the thick bear-filled forests of Kočevje, Kočevje, befre it slws dwn and meanders alng the entire suth and east edges of Črnomelj, finally moving through some of Slvenia’s best wine grwing land in Metlika befre entering Cratia and eventually jining the Sava river at the end f its 297km journey. These lands tuched by th e Klpa’s placid waters have much mre t ffer visitrs than just the river itself thugh. They include a diverse selectin f prtected natural landscapes, rich cultural and culinary heritage, and genuinely friendly welcming lcals wh will make yu feel at hme the mment yu arrive. In the pages belw we’ve presented a brief verview f the things t see and d in the regin, but if yu still need mre cnvincing, r wuld just like t see sme mre phts, yu can visit the f ficial Klpa river website (yes, even river’s have websites these days) at www.klpariver.eu.
Around Idrija
Turist Agencies
Kolpa RiveR
Rafting on the Kolpa river is the region’s most popular summertime activity, photo by Vesmin Kajtozovič, Archive STB in the regin f Bela Krajina is yur destinatin, take the motorway in the direction of Zagreb to the Ivančna Gorica exit, pass through the pretty little town of Žužemberk and onwards on Route 216 through the forests until you emerge near Semič (alternatively, you can take the mtrway all the way t Nv Mest and head suth frm there t Metlika). As fr public transprt, buses are yur only option to the upper river, with a trip to Kočevje taking about 1.5hrs and leaving every hour or so on weekdays. Fr Bela Krajina and the lwer river, the train is a much better option, with up to a dozen per day making the 2-3hr journey from Ljublja na to Metlika via Črnomel j.
Tourist information TIC Črnomelj Trg Svobode 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30
56 530,
[email protected], www.belakra jina .si, ww w.kolp ariv er.eu. The turist infrmatin centre located inside Črnomelj’s castle also serves as the main inf pint fr the Bela Krajina regi n, and actually pulls triple duty as the fficial centre fr the entire destinatin f the Klpa river. In ther wrds, if yu can’t get the inf r answers yu’re lking fr here, then yu might as well stp lking. In additin t piles f useful maps, brchures and bklets, there’s als a small gift shp with the mst typical traditinal crafts. W TIC Kočevje Ljubljanska 26, tel. +386 (0)1 89 382 26,
[email protected], www.kocevje.si. TIC Kostel Vas 4, tel. + 386 (0)1 89 48 070, info@ kostel.si, www.info-kostel.si. TIC Metlika Trg Svobode 4, tel. +386 (0)7 36 35 470,
[email protected], www.metlikaturizem.si. TIC Semič Štefanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)7 35 65 200, www.kc-semic.si.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
19
Črnomelj is the largest municipality in Bela Krajina, both in terms of size and population, with some 14,500 inhabitants residing on the 340km2 f land within its brders. It’s smewhat irnic then that the medieval ld twn at the centre f it all is relatively tiny, squeezed as it were n a narrw raised strip f land in a tight bend f the slw mving Lahinja ri ver. The first settlers here didn’t have the fresight f mdern urban planning, as it was still nly the Late Irn A ge sme 3,000 years ago. But in fact, the bit of land on which these early humans settled prvides such as gd natural defence that is has been inhabited mre r less cntinuusly ever since. The first Slavic peple mved here at the beginning f the 10th century, and Slavic identity is perhaps still felt more strngly in these parts than elsewhere in Slvenia - sme churches still bear symbls frm Slavic mythlgy, and the mst imprtant annual festival als has Slavic rts. Modern Črnomelj extends northwards from the old town, and is where yu will find the train and bus statins, large shpping centres and mst f the industry in the regin. Aside frm a cuple f fertile valleys t the west and east f the twn, mst f the rest f the municipality is cvered in frests, while the entire suth and east are brdered by the Klpa river.
What t See in Črnomelj Church of the Holy Spirit Ulica Mirna Jarca. Set at the very southern edge of Črnomelj’s old town, above where the smaller Dobličica flows into the Lahinja river, the Church of the Hly Spirit is a testament t the twn’s lng and stried histry, which ges back much further than Christianity itself. Archelgical excavatins have fund evidence beneath the church cnfirming the existence f an Irn Age settlement here, while an earlier church was built n the exact same lcatin by the Byzantines during late antiquity, frm which parts f the fundatin and sme msaics still exist. exist. The predecessr f the current church was first mentined in the historical record in 1487, but the actual building only dates to the middle of the 19th century, when it was extensively renvated and expanded. Severely damaged during the Secnd Wrld War, War, the church was subsequently decnsecrated, and reopened as a cultural space in 2007 after undergoing further renvatins. In additin t hsting frequent exhibitins by well-knwn Slvene and internatinal artists, visitrs can als view partially preserved msaics and see different layers f histry eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
uncvered by excavatins thrugh a transparent sectin f the flr. Visits can be arranged thugh the turist ffice at the ther side f twn.
Around Črnomelj Beekeeping Educational Path Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40,
[email protected],
[email protected], ww w.kp-kolpa.si. w.kp-kolpa.si.BeekeepBeekeeping has always been an imprtant par t f rural life in the Bela Krajina regin, but in recent years it seems that fewer lcals here have the time necessary t devte t the activity. It is within this cntext that the Beekeeping Educatinal Path was opened in the Kolpa Krajinski Krajinski Park in 2008, in order to educate visitrs and especially the yuth abut the rle that bees and beekeeping play in the larger ecologi cal picture. Some 300m f pathways lead visitrs between varius different trees, flwers, shrubs and ther plants, all all f which which are marked marked with educatin bards detailing when they are blm and hw useful they are fr the prductin f hney. The path is lcated righ t next to the Šokčev Dvor farmstead in the village of Žuniči, and is usually cmbined as par t f a single tur. tur.
Events in Črnomelj Jurjevanje www.jurjevanje.si. First held in 1964,
Jurjevanje is the ldest flklre festival in Slvenia, and in recent years had als becme ne f the largest. The festival is actually the culminatin f tw mnths f celebration s that begin with St George’s Day on 24 April, which fficially welcmes the spring seasn. The cultural prgramme includes varius wrkshps, lectures and exhibitins, but the main events are the singing, dancing and musical heritage perfrmances given by flklre grups frm bth Slvenia and abrad. While the fcus is primarily n grups frm the Bela Krajina regin, in recent years the rganisers have been able t bk sme wrld famus internatina l flklre bands as well. During the five-day festival the party usually ges well int the night, with ethn-flk, pp and rck bands als taking t the stage. Events are held in late June at several venues in Črnomelj’s old town, but main venue is the natural amphitheatre called Jurjevanska Draga lcated in the nrth f the twn near the train statin.
Schengenfest www.schengenfest.si. Hw can
yu nt like a festival whse mtt is t be ‘bigger and sexier each year’ - especially when this gal has actually been accmplished in full fr ver half a decade? When Schengenfest first began in 2008, it was lit tle more than a ne-day cncert with nly half a dzen perfrmers taking t the stage. Nw in just a few shrt years it‘s grwn int a full-fledged music festival, festival, with dzens f musicians playing ver three days, including sme f the biggest na mes in pp and rck music frm Slvenia and neighburing cuntries, including Siddharta, Big Ft Mama, Dan D, Riblja Čorba and Parni Valjak, as well as well-known inter natinal bands such as Kaiser Chiefs, Parv Stellar and Leningrad Cowboys - and this was on ly the line-up for 5th anniversary festival in 2012. With Croatia scheduled to join the EU any time nw (althugh this has been the case fr years), there‘s n wrd what will happen when/if the Klpa river lses its status as a Schengen brder, but we have faith that the rganisers will find a way keep the ‘sund, sun and fun’ ging well int the future. The festival is held arund the first week f August each summer near the village of Vinica. Three-day passes are between €49-65 depending n hw early they‘re purchased, and singl e day tickets are als available.
2012/13
21
20
Kolpa RiveR
Kolpa RiveR Bela Krajina Hiking and Cycling Paths The varied landscape f Bela Krajina ffers sme great pprtunities fr hiking and cycling, and the lcal turist ffices have prduced sme excellent free guides detailing ver a dzen specific rutes that can be cvered bth n ft r by bike, and can als prvide inf n renting bikes. The very useful 3-D maps make reading the lay f the land easy, and each rute has a lengthy descriptin f the sights and attr actins t watch ut fr alng th e way, as well as technical inf abut the length, difficulty and average duratin f the trips. The mst ppular cycling rutes fr turists are unsurprisingly thse that fllw alng the Klpa river, althugh we are persnally fnd f the paths that fllw the seemingly endless vin eyards running along the edge of the valley east of Črnomelj all the way to Semič and beyond. Hikers also have a wide variety f paths t chse frm, and rganised hikes take place thrughut the year.
Črnomelj
Rafting on the Kolpa river is the region’s most popular summertime activity, photo by Vesmin Kajtozovič, Archive STB Named a European Destination of Excellence in 2010, the pristine Klpa river is ften re ferred t as Slvenia’s lngest castline. While this distinctin is meant t have a bit f fun at the expense of the country’s diminutive 47km long Mediterranean cast, it’s mre a testament t the Klpa’s ppularity as an aquatic destinatin, especially during the ht summer mnths when the water f th e lwer river can reach a bath-like 30°C. Forming some 113km of Slovenia’s (Schengen) brder with Cratia, the river begins its jurney in osilnica, the cuntry’s smallest municipality and the land f Peter Klepec. Frm there it winds i ts way thrugh the breathtaking green hill s f Klpa Grge, past Kstel’s famous castle and the thick bear-filled forests of Kočevje, Kočevje, befre it slws dwn and meanders alng the entire suth and east edges of Črnomelj, finally moving through some of Slvenia’s best wine grwing land in Metlika befre entering Cratia and eventually jining the Sava river at the end f its 297km journey. These lands tuched by th e Klpa’s placid waters have much mre t ffer visitrs than just the river itself thugh. They include a diverse selectin f prtected natural landscapes, rich cultural and culinary heritage, and genuinely friendly welcming lcals wh will make yu feel at hme the mment yu arrive. In the pages belw we’ve presented a brief verview f the things t see and d in the regin, but if yu still need mre cnvincing, r wuld just like t see sme mre phts, yu can visit the f ficial Klpa river website (yes, even river’s have websites these days) at www.klpariver.eu.
Arriving The mst cnvenient way t reach and explre the Klpa river is with yur wn car. If yu’re headed t the areas of the upper river from Ljubljana, Route 106 will take you directly to Kočevje in about an hour, and then it’s just a matter f fllwing the sign suth frm there t Kstel and osilnica. If the slwer mving waters f the lwer river EDEN Slovenia
22
in the regin f Bela Krajina is yur destinatin, take the motorway in the direction of Zagreb to the Ivančna Gorica exit, pass through the pretty little town of Žužemberk and onwards on Route 216 through the forests until you emerge near Semič (alternatively, you can take the mtrway all the way t Nv Mest and head suth frm there t Metlika). As fr public transprt, buses are yur only option to the upper river, with a trip to Kočevje taking about 1.5hrs and leaving every hour or so on weekdays. Fr Bela Krajina and the lwer river, the train is a much better option, with up to a dozen per day making the 2-3hr journey from Ljublja na to Metlika via Črnomel j.
Tourist information TIC Črnomelj Trg Svobode 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30
56 530,
[email protected], www.belakra jina .si, ww w.kolp ariv er.eu. The turist infrmatin centre located inside Črnomelj’s castle also serves as the main inf pint fr the Bela Krajina regi n, and actually pulls triple duty as the fficial centre fr the entire destinatin f the Klpa river. In ther wrds, if yu can’t get the inf r answers yu’re lking fr here, then yu might as well stp lking. In additin t piles f useful maps, brchures and bklets, there’s als a small gift shp with the mst typical traditinal crafts. W TIC Kočevje Ljubljanska 26, tel. +386 (0)1 89 382 26,
[email protected], www.kocevje.si. TIC Kostel Vas 4, tel. + 386 (0)1 89 48 070, info@ kostel.si, www.info-kostel.si. TIC Metlika Trg Svobode 4, tel. +386 (0)7 36 35 470,
[email protected], www.metlikaturizem.si. TIC Semič Štefanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)7 35 65 200, www.kc-semic.si.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Črnomelj is the largest municipality in Bela Krajina, both in terms of size and population, with some 14,500 inhabitants residing on the 340km2 f land within its brders. It’s smewhat irnic then that the medieval ld twn at the centre f it all is relatively tiny, squeezed as it were n a narrw raised strip f land in a tight bend f the slw mving Lahinja ri ver. The first settlers here didn’t have the fresight f mdern urban planning, as it was still nly the Late Irn A ge sme 3,000 years ago. But in fact, the bit of land on which these early humans settled prvides such as gd natural defence that is has been inhabited mre r less cntinuusly ever since. The first Slavic peple mved here at the beginning f the 10th century, and Slavic identity is perhaps still felt more strngly in these parts than elsewhere in Slvenia - sme churches still bear symbls frm Slavic mythlgy, and the mst imprtant annual festival als has Slavic rts. Modern Črnomelj extends northwards from the old town, and is where yu will find the train and bus statins, large shpping centres and mst f the industry in the regin. Aside frm a cuple f fertile valleys t the west and east f the twn, mst f the rest f the municipality is cvered in frests, while the entire suth and east are brdered by the Klpa river.
What t See in Črnomelj Church of the Holy Spirit Ulica Mirna Jarca. Set at the very southern edge of Črnomelj’s old town, above where the smaller Dobličica flows into the Lahinja river, the Church of the Hly Spirit is a testament t the twn’s lng and stried histry, which ges back much further than Christianity itself. Archelgical excavatins have fund evidence beneath the church cnfirming the existence f an Irn Age settlement here, while an earlier church was built n the exact same lcatin by the Byzantines during late antiquity, frm which parts f the fundatin and sme msaics still exist. exist. The predecessr f the current church was first mentined in the historical record in 1487, but the actual building only dates to the middle of the 19th century, when it was extensively renvated and expanded. Severely damaged during the Secnd Wrld War, War, the church was subsequently decnsecrated, and reopened as a cultural space in 2007 after undergoing further renvatins. In additin t hsting frequent exhibitins by well-knwn Slvene and internatinal artists, visitrs can als view partially preserved msaics and see different layers f histry
Viniška Republika Vinica is an unassuming village of around 200 residents some 18km south of Črnomelj, lying ju st before the Kolpa river and brder with Cratia. It’s als ne f ur favurite places in Slvenia. Knwn nwadays primarily fr being the birthplace of acclaimed early 20th century poet Oton Župančič, as well as the site of the increasingly famous Schengenfest music festival (which is “bigger and sexier each year”), the village has lng had a reputatin amng the lcals f Bela Krajina as a peculiar srt f place. one legend that perfectly captures the spirit f the peple here ges back t the time when the regin was under the cnstant threat f Turkish invasin. one day smene frm the village sptted the advancing ottman army, and knew that with a ppulatin much the same size as it is tday they wuld be hel pless t defend themselves against the imminent attack. Withut hesitatin the twn elders calmly asked their fellw twnsflk t quickly gather as many lizards as pssible, and then prceeded t catapult a bt full f the tiny reptiles twards the Turks, which f curse struck the general f the army squarely in the face. Assuming that the village in frnt f them was s infested with dragns that their ffspring were falling frm the sky, the general made the decisin t find anther rute and Vinica was spared, alth ugh it’s still unclear if the bt was ever recvered. As impressive as this legend is, even if it were true it wuldn’t be the strangest ccurrence in the histry f the village, which undubtedl y ges t the events f April 1919. In the confusing weeks and months that followed the cessation of fighting in the autumn of 1918, but befre cmprehensive Treaty f Versailles was signed in June 1919, the new national borders that would be carved ut f the Austr-Hungaria n Empire were nt fficially established. It was under these circumstan ces that the village f Vinica fficially declared it’s independence and became the Republic f Vin ica (r Viniška Republika), electing the 87 year-old Jure Pavelšiča as their president. But alas, the hard-fught independence f the gd citizens f Vinica was shrt-lived, as they were frced t abandn their statehd and nce again rejin the newly frmed Kingdm f Yugslavia after nly five days.
EDEN Slovenia
Around Črnomelj Beekeeping Educational Path Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40,
[email protected],
[email protected], ww w.kp-kolpa.si. w.kp-kolpa.si.BeekeepBeekeeping has always been an imprtant par t f rural life in the Bela Krajina regin, but in recent years it seems that fewer lcals here have the time necessary t devte t the activity. It is within this cntext that the Beekeeping Educatinal Path was opened in the Kolpa Krajinski Krajinski Park in 2008, in order to educate visitrs and especially the yuth abut the rle that bees and beekeeping play in the larger ecologi cal picture. Some 300m f pathways lead visitrs between varius different trees, flwers, shrubs and ther plants, all all f which which are marked marked with educatin bards detailing when they are blm and hw useful they are fr the prductin f hney. The path is lcated righ t next to the Šokčev Dvor farmstead in the village of Žuniči, and is usually cmbined as par t f a single tur. tur.
Events in Črnomelj Jurjevanje www.jurjevanje.si. First held in 1964,
Jurjevanje is the ldest flklre festival in Slvenia, and in recent years had als becme ne f the largest. The festival is actually the culminatin f tw mnths f celebration s that begin with St George’s Day on 24 April, which fficially welcmes the spring seasn. The cultural prgramme includes varius wrkshps, lectures and exhibitins, but the main events are the singing, dancing and musical heritage perfrmances given by flklre grups frm bth Slvenia and abrad. While the fcus is primarily n grups frm the Bela Krajina regin, in recent years the rganisers have been able t bk sme wrld famus internatina l flklre bands as well. During the five-day festival the party usually ges well int the night, with ethn-flk, pp and rck bands als taking t the stage. Events are held in late June at several venues in Črnomelj’s old town, but main venue is the natural amphitheatre called Jurjevanska Draga lcated in the nrth f the twn near the train statin.
Schengenfest www.schengenfest.si. Hw can
yu nt like a festival whse mtt is t be ‘bigger and sexier each year’ - especially when this gal has actually been accmplished in full fr ver half a decade? When Schengenfest first began in 2008, it was lit tle more than a ne-day cncert with nly half a dzen perfrmers taking t the stage. Nw in just a few shrt years it‘s grwn int a full-fledged music festival, festival, with dzens f musicians playing ver three days, including sme f the biggest na mes in pp and rck music frm Slvenia and neighburing cuntries, including Siddharta, Big Ft Mama, Dan D, Riblja Čorba and Parni Valjak, as well as well-known inter natinal bands such as Kaiser Chiefs, Parv Stellar and Leningrad Cowboys - and this was on ly the line-up for 5th anniversary festival in 2012. With Croatia scheduled to join the EU any time nw (althugh this has been the case fr years), there‘s n wrd what will happen when/if the Klpa river lses its status as a Schengen brder, but we have faith that the rganisers will find a way keep the ‘sund, sun and fun’ ging well int the future. The festival is held arund the first week f August each summer near the village of Vinica. Three-day passes are between €49-65 depending n hw early they‘re purchased, and singl e day tickets are als available.
2012/13
Kolpa RiveR that weaves the thread int raw linen fabric. We witnessed several minutes f the wrk prgress millimetre by millimetre with each pull f the creaky wden levers, and it made us tired just watching. After seeing this, visitrs will definitely have mre respect fr the finished pieces tha t are displayed in the small gallery next dr, which include bth strictly traditinal garments, as well as mre mdern interpretatins. The secnd lcal craft demnstrated here - egg dying - may seem dwnright easy in cmparisn, but it t takes a level f skill and patience that require years t learn. Althugh mst peple prbably remember dying Easter eg gs at sme pint in their lives, the prcess f making Bela Krajina’s famus red and black designs takes it t a whle ther level, using traditinal wax applicatrs and hmemade dye. With prir arrangements grups can experience hands-n wrkshps in bth f these crafts, and als purchase ne-f-a-kind suvenirs frm the gift shp.
Kolpa Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40,
[email protected], www.kp-kolpa.si. The Klpa Krajinski Park covers the over 4300 hectares of diverse natural land scapes alng the Klpa river in the suthernmst reaches of the Črnomelj municipality. Stretching from the settlement of Fučkovci (yes that is the actual name, and yes there is a sign yu can take yur pht in frnt f) in the east t the twn f Stari Trg b Klpi in the west, the park includes the Veliko Bukovje hills between Adlešiči and Vinica as well as the eastern edges of th e vast Kočevje forests. Beynd simply prtecting the natural heritage f the area, ne f the main aims f the park is t prmte and preserve the cultural heritage and tradi tinal way f life r the lcal peple in envirnmentally-friendly and sustainable ways. In additin t the varius natural sights fr turists t visit, there are many well-marked cycling and hiking rutes, an educatinal path devted t beekeeping, an ethnlgical museum at Šokčev Dvor, Dvor, organised adventure tours, an d of course plenty f pprtunities t enjy the warm water f the Klpa river. First established n the initiative f the lcal administra tin in Črnomelj in 1998, the park has been given further protection and support by the Slovenian state since 2006.
Lahinja Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 305 65 30,
[email protected], www.belakrajina.si. Lcated in the heart f Bela Krajina, the Lahinja Krajinski Park is a prtected area cvering the first 7km f the Lahinja river in the valley just suth f Dragatuš. Lvers f nature, histry and rural custms can easily spend the better part f a day explring the area n ft (r a bit less by bike). The park cntains several interesting archelgical sites, including the remains f sme f the mst imprtant Nelithic and Cpper Age settlements in Slvenia, as well as a smewhat eerie prehistric village near Pusti Gradec. of the many ethnlgical pints f interest in the park, the highlights fr us are the Klepec mill and sawmill, which is little changed since the 17th century and quite amazingly still functins, and the tiny village f Veliki Nerajec, where friendly lcals will happily shw yu arund and likely treat yu t sme buckwheat ptica (a lcal speciality). Yu wn’t be the first persn impressed by the village and h spitality f the lcals, as the place wn a Eurpean award fr cuntryside development in 2000. With tw separate nature reserves, natural sights are the main attractin fr mst visitrs, and the suthern pr tin f the park has sme lvely pastures and frests t walk thrugh on the way to th e source of the Lahinja near th e village of Belčji Vrh. The park also include a por tion of the O ton Župančič Path, which runs frm Dragatuš all the way t the famus pet’s birth huse and museum in Vinica and ffers the pssibility f extending yur walk r ride all the way t the Klpa.
Šokčev Dvor Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40, info@ kp-kolpa.si, ww w.kp-kolpa.si. w.kp-kolpa.si.This This traditinal Bela Krajina farmstead in th e village of Žuniči, in the hear t of the Kolpa Krajinski Park, is a prtected cultural mnument and the best preserved example example f this type f architecture. The structure cnsists f a family hme, a barn and stables that surrund a large inner curtyard, which is enclsed n t he furth side by a thick stne wall and heavy wden gate. The huse dates back to the late 18th or early 19th century, but the design is much lder, as it was first develped t prtect against pillaging Turkish soldiers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The site is als a full-fledged ethnlgical museum, with rms in the huse arranged as th ey wuld have been years ag. Visitrs usually cme in grups with prir arrangement, s the hsts can arrange some light snacks for the end of the tour. Žuniči is on the main road l eading from Vinica to Adlešiči. Stari Trg ob Kolpi Set n a high ridge verlking an
Nowadays little remains of that glorious 72 hours of freedm, a side frm a mn ument, the mem ries and suvenir T-shirts and currency that can be purchased nline frm the Republic’s wn website (republika.vinica. si) - it is the 21st century after all.
Cvitkovič Traditional Crafts Adlešiči 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 028/+386 (0)40 730 504, nada.cvitkovic@ siol.net. In the village of Adlešiči, about 13km southeast of Črnomelj, you can view two nearly extinct traditional local crafts still being prduced nt nly in the very same huse, but by the very same woman: Nada Cvitkovič. Although the traditinal linen clthing is ne f the mst imprtant and recognisable symbols of the Bela Krajina region, Ms Cvitkovič is currently ne f nly tw lcal wmen wh still prduce the material using cmpletely traditinal methds. If this seems strange, the reasn is simple, it’s an incredibly painstaking and labur-intensive prcess. While the prcess f harvesting, drying and transfrming the flax int spls f useable linen threads is understandably time-cnsuming, the real effrt cmes in the skill and strength it takes t perate the massive centuries-ld lm
uncvered by excavatins thrugh a transparent sectin f the flr. Visits can be arranged thugh the turist ffice at the ther side f twn.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
especially windy and picturesque stretch f the Klpa River Valley, Valley, we were amazed t hear that the charming lit tle village f Stari Trg had never received first place in any f Eurpe’s mst beautiful village cmpetitins. one lng street lined with well-kept single flr huses cmes t an end at the massive Church f St Jseph’s sitting at the highest pin t n the ridge. Nowadays home to just over 100 inhabitants, for centuries Stari Trg was an imprtant market twn (the name literally means ld square in Slvene) and religius centre. Its primary schl is als still a great surce f pride, with roots going all the way back to 1820 it’s one of the oldest in Slvenia, and was lng knwn t prduce sme f the cuntry’s best chess players.
Metlika
See hw Bela Krajina’s traditinal Easter eggs are made and then give it a try yurself, pht by YMB eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
one f Bela Krajina’s three main twns, Metlika has a population of around 3500 (with 8500 or so in th e whole municipality) and several interesting attractins fr visitrs aside frm the picturesque twn itself. The riverside castle will likely be ne f the first draws, husing the reginal museum. Firefighting enthusiasts will undubtedly be fulfilled n a trip t Metlika as well, as the natinal museum f firefighteden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
21
Mst events in Bela Krajina feature traditinal dancers in the region’s unmistakable white costumes, photo by Tomaž Urh, Archive RIC ing (integral to Slovene culture) was founded here in 1969. Three Gthic churches in nearby Rsalnice are anther well knwn sight, drawing pilgrims fr centuries. Metlika was officially officially recognised as a town back in th e 15th century, a century after th e area and river Klpa became imprtant as the Carnilan/Cratian brder. brder. Having been riginally inhabited since pre-histric times, the area f Bela Krajina then saw sme tumultuus times; o ttman raids in the 15th and 16th centuries were harsh and a fire in 1705 saw Metlika burned to the ground. It was in the 19th and early 20th centuries that the town like the whole area became ntable fr its craft and trade. Culturally Metlika seems like smething f a mix, traditins f agriculture and crafts with an injectin f mdern music in terms f the ar ts.
What t See in Metlika Bela Krajina Museum & Metlika Castle Trg Svobod e
4, tel. +386 (0)7 306 33 70, belokranjski.muzej@guest. arnes.si,www.belokranjski-muzej.si. www.belokranjski-muzej.si.First First opened in 1951, the Bela Krajina Museum des an excellent jb f presenting a cmprehensive picture f life in the regin frm prehistric times right up until the museum pened. Renvated and modernised in time for its 50th anniversary in 2001, visits t the museum’s permanent cllectin nw begin with an informative 15min film called ‘The images of Bela Krajina’. Arranged fr the mst part chrnlgically, the ldest items in the cllectin are sme rudimentar y tls used in the area during the Nelithic perid, while the mst recent sectin f the permanent exhibitin cvers the difficult interwar years and WWII. Frm the latter yu can learn hw Bela Krajina became a free partisan territry during the last years f the war, which was a cmpletely unique phenmenn in Eurpe. In ther rms a significant amunt f space is dedicated t the nearly tw hundred years f cnstant threat f invasin by the Ottoman Turks during the 15th and 16th centuries, and here is als a very interesting viticulture exhibitin, shwing the traditinal wine grwing methds and equipment frm the last 200 years. The castle is als hme t the Metlika turist infrmatin centre, a temprary exhibitin space and a wine cellar. It’s als a ppular venue fr weddings and ther events. Elsewh ere in the regin the museum manages several ther cultural cllections including the Kambič Gallery in Metlika, the Semič Local Museum, the Črnomelj Municipal Museum and the Memorial Collection of Oton Župančič in Vinica. 2012/13
23
22
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
Viniška Republika Vinica is an unassuming village of around 200 residents some 18km south of Črnomelj, lying ju st before the Kolpa river and brder with Cratia. It’s als ne f ur favurite places in Slvenia. Knwn nwadays primarily fr being the birthplace of acclaimed early 20th century poet Oton Župančič, as well as the site of the increasingly famous Schengenfest music festival (which is “bigger and sexier each year”), the village has lng had a reputatin amng the lcals f Bela Krajina as a peculiar srt f place. one legend that perfectly captures the spirit f the peple here ges back t the time when the regin was under the cnstant threat f Turkish invasin. one day smene frm the village sptted the advancing ottman army, and knew that with a ppulatin much the same size as it is tday they wuld be hel pless t defend themselves against the imminent attack. Withut hesitatin the twn elders calmly asked their fellw twnsflk t quickly gather as many lizards as pssible, and then prceeded t catapult a bt full f the tiny reptiles twards the Turks, which f curse struck the general f the army squarely in the face. Assuming that the village in frnt f them was s infested with dragns that their ffspring were falling frm the sky, the general made the decisin t find anther rute and Vinica was spared, alth ugh it’s still unclear if the bt was ever recvered. As impressive as this legend is, even if it were true it wuldn’t be the strangest ccurrence in the histry f the village, which undubtedl y ges t the events f April 1919. In the confusing weeks and months that followed the cessation of fighting in the autumn of 1918, but befre cmprehensive Treaty f Versailles was signed in June 1919, the new national borders that would be carved ut f the Austr-Hungaria n Empire were nt fficially established. It was under these circumstan ces that the village f Vinica fficially declared it’s independence and became the Republic f Vin ica (r Viniška Republika), electing the 87 year-old Jure Pavelšiča as their president. But alas, the hard-fught independence f the gd citizens f Vinica was shrt-lived, as they were frced t abandn their statehd and nce again rejin the newly frmed Kingdm f Yugslavia after nly five days.
Kolpa RiveR that weaves the thread int raw linen fabric. We witnessed several minutes f the wrk prgress millimetre by millimetre with each pull f the creaky wden levers, and it made us tired just watching. After seeing this, visitrs will definitely have mre respect fr the finished pieces tha t are displayed in the small gallery next dr, which include bth strictly traditinal garments, as well as mre mdern interpretatins. The secnd lcal craft demnstrated here - egg dying - may seem dwnright easy in cmparisn, but it t takes a level f skill and patience that require years t learn. Althugh mst peple prbably remember dying Easter eg gs at sme pint in their lives, the prcess f making Bela Krajina’s famus red and black designs takes it t a whle ther level, using traditinal wax applicatrs and hmemade dye. With prir arrangements grups can experience hands-n wrkshps in bth f these crafts, and als purchase ne-f-a-kind suvenirs frm the gift shp.
Kolpa Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40,
[email protected], www.kp-kolpa.si. The Klpa Krajinski Park covers the over 4300 hectares of diverse natural land scapes alng the Klpa river in the suthernmst reaches of the Črnomelj municipality. Stretching from the settlement of Fučkovci (yes that is the actual name, and yes there is a sign yu can take yur pht in frnt f) in the east t the twn f Stari Trg b Klpi in the west, the park includes the Veliko Bukovje hills between Adlešiči and Vinica as well as the eastern edges of th e vast Kočevje forests. Beynd simply prtecting the natural heritage f the area, ne f the main aims f the park is t prmte and preserve the cultural heritage and tradi tinal way f life r the lcal peple in envirnmentally-friendly and sustainable ways. In additin t the varius natural sights fr turists t visit, there are many well-marked cycling and hiking rutes, an educatinal path devted t beekeeping, an ethnlgical museum at Šokčev Dvor, Dvor, organised adventure tours, an d of course plenty f pprtunities t enjy the warm water f the Klpa river. First established n the initiative f the lcal administra tin in Črnomelj in 1998, the park has been given further protection and support by the Slovenian state since 2006.
Cvitkovič Traditional Crafts Adlešiči 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 028/+386 (0)40 730 504, nada.cvitkovic@ siol.net. In the village of Adlešiči, about 13km southeast of Črnomelj, you can view two nearly extinct traditional local crafts still being prduced nt nly in the very same huse, but by the very same woman: Nada Cvitkovič. Although the traditinal linen clthing is ne f the mst imprtant and recognisable symbols of the Bela Krajina region, Ms Cvitkovič is currently ne f nly tw lcal wmen wh still prduce the material using cmpletely traditinal methds. If this seems strange, the reasn is simple, it’s an incredibly painstaking and labur-intensive prcess. While the prcess f harvesting, drying and transfrming the flax int spls f useable linen threads is understandably time-cnsuming, the real effrt cmes in the skill and strength it takes t perate the massive centuries-ld lm EDEN Slovenia
24
Lahinja Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 305 65 30,
[email protected], www.belakrajina.si. Lcated in the heart f Bela Krajina, the Lahinja Krajinski Park is a prtected area cvering the first 7km f the Lahinja river in the valley just suth f Dragatuš. Lvers f nature, histry and rural custms can easily spend the better part f a day explring the area n ft (r a bit less by bike). The park cntains several interesting archelgical sites, including the remains f sme f the mst imprtant Nelithic and Cpper Age settlements in Slvenia, as well as a smewhat eerie prehistric village near Pusti Gradec. of the many ethnlgical pints f interest in the park, the highlights fr us are the Klepec mill and sawmill, which is little changed since the 17th century and quite amazingly still functins, and the tiny village f Veliki Nerajec, where friendly lcals will happily shw yu arund and likely treat yu t sme buckwheat ptica (a lcal speciality). Yu wn’t be the first persn impressed by the village and h spitality f the lcals, as the place wn a Eurpean award fr cuntryside development in 2000. With tw separate nature reserves, natural sights are the main attractin fr mst visitrs, and the suthern pr tin f the park has sme lvely pastures and frests t walk thrugh on the way to th e source of the Lahinja near th e village of Belčji Vrh. The park also include a por tion of the O ton Župančič Path, which runs frm Dragatuš all the way t the famus pet’s birth huse and museum in Vinica and ffers the pssibility f extending yur walk r ride all the way t the Klpa.
Šokčev Dvor Žuniči, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40, info@ kp-kolpa.si, ww w.kp-kolpa.si. w.kp-kolpa.si.This This traditinal Bela Krajina farmstead in th e village of Žuniči, in the hear t of the Kolpa Krajinski Park, is a prtected cultural mnument and the best preserved example example f this type f architecture. The structure cnsists f a family hme, a barn and stables that surrund a large inner curtyard, which is enclsed n t he furth side by a thick stne wall and heavy wden gate. The huse dates back to the late 18th or early 19th century, but the design is much lder, as it was first develped t prtect against pillaging Turkish soldiers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The site is als a full-fledged ethnlgical museum, with rms in the huse arranged as th ey wuld have been years ag. Visitrs usually cme in grups with prir arrangement, s the hsts can arrange some light snacks for the end of the tour. Žuniči is on the main road l eading from Vinica to Adlešiči. Stari Trg ob Kolpi Set n a high ridge verlking an
Nowadays little remains of that glorious 72 hours of freedm, a side frm a mn ument, the mem ries and suvenir T-shirts and currency that can be purchased nline frm the Republic’s wn website (republika.vinica. si) - it is the 21st century after all.
especially windy and picturesque stretch f the Klpa River Valley, Valley, we were amazed t hear that the charming lit tle village f Stari Trg had never received first place in any f Eurpe’s mst beautiful village cmpetitins. one lng street lined with well-kept single flr huses cmes t an end at the massive Church f St Jseph’s sitting at the highest pin t n the ridge. Nowadays home to just over 100 inhabitants, for centuries Stari Trg was an imprtant market twn (the name literally means ld square in Slvene) and religius centre. Its primary schl is als still a great surce f pride, with roots going all the way back to 1820 it’s one of the oldest in Slvenia, and was lng knwn t prduce sme f the cuntry’s best chess players.
Metlika
See hw Bela Krajina’s traditinal Easter eggs are made and then give it a try yurself, pht by YMB eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
one f Bela Krajina’s three main twns, Metlika has a population of around 3500 (with 8500 or so in th e whole municipality) and several interesting attractins fr visitrs aside frm the picturesque twn itself. The riverside castle will likely be ne f the first draws, husing the reginal museum. Firefighting enthusiasts will undubtedly be fulfilled n a trip t Metlika as well, as the natinal museum f firefight-
www.vinskavigred.com. In a regin knwn fr its win e, the Vinska Vigred festival is the largest wine event in Bela Krajina, attracting thusands visitrs t Metlika’s ld twn ver three days during the thi rd weekend in May each year. First held more than 30 years ago, the event began strictly as a wine fair fr exhibiting and tasting lcal wines, but it has since grwn int a multi-faceted cultural festival as well. Nwadays the festival basts three separate stages fr music, flklre and ther perfrmances, and varius smaller stands presenting traditinal handicrafts, artistic prducts and f curse lots and lots of wine - there are over 300 different types, s if yu plan t try them all, yu’d better pace yurself! one thing visitrs need nt wrry abut is drinking up an appetite, as there is als lts f tasty fd n hand, including rasted lamb, suckling pigs and f curse plenty of freshly baked Belokranjska pogača flat bread.
Kambič Gallery Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 51, tel. +386 (0)7 305 8332, b
[email protected]. si. The namesake f this gallery happens t be a cllectr, whose birthhouse it is now housed in. Vinko Kambič (19202001), a doctor, professor professor and Dean of the Faculty of M edicine in Ljubljana, and Vilma Bukovec Kambič, his wife and opera singer, singer, were smething f cnisseurs f Slvene impressinists and aggregated names such as Ks, Kregar, Pavlvec, Perko and Pogačnik. To be found on the ground floor and in the attic, respecti vely, are the temprary temprary exhibitins f wrks by lesser knwn artists and the memrial f the cllectrs and frmer prprietrs. Being managed by the Bela Krajina Museum and owned by the Muni cipality of Metlika, Kambič is well-run and a pleasure t experience as a visitr. Otok’s DC-3 If you’re driving from Metlika to Črnomelj and see smething ut f the crner f yur eye t the left beynd glden wheat fields, rest assured that yu’re nt hallucinating, that is in fact an ac tual WWII-era Duglas DC-3 - r t be mre precise, it’s technically a mdi fied DC-3 that was referred t as a C-47 Skytrain or Dakota. What is the plane doing in this therwise nrmal-lking field? Decmmissined by the Yugslav Natinal Army in the years fllwing the war, it was placed here t cmmemrate all f the A merican and British sldiers wh used such planes t fly wunded partisan fighters frm a makeshift airprt in the liberated territry f Bela Krajina t Allied hspitals in Italy. Rumur has it that when the plane was first set here, it cntained all f its riginal equipment, which then slwly disappeared ver ver the years. Regardless Regardless f whether r nt this
EDEN Slovenia
ing (integral to Slovene culture) was founded here in 1969. Three Gthic churches in nearby Rsalnice are anther well knwn sight, drawing pilgrims fr centuries. Metlika was officially officially recognised as a town back in th e 15th century, a century after th e area and river Klpa became imprtant as the Carnilan/Cratian brder. brder. Having been riginally inhabited since pre-histric times, the area f Bela Krajina then saw sme tumultuus times; o ttman raids in the 15th and 16th centuries were harsh and a fire in 1705 saw Metlika burned to the ground. It was in the 19th and early 20th centuries that the town like the whole area became ntable fr its craft and trade. Culturally Metlika seems like smething f a mix, traditins f agriculture and crafts with an injectin f mdern music in terms f the ar ts.
What t See in Metlika Bela Krajina Museum & Metlika Castle Trg Svobod e
4, tel. +386 (0)7 306 33 70, belokranjski.muzej@guest. arnes.si,www.belokranjski-muzej.si. www.belokranjski-muzej.si.First First opened in 1951, the Bela Krajina Museum des an excellent jb f presenting a cmprehensive picture f life in the regin frm prehistric times right up until the museum pened. Renvated and modernised in time for its 50th anniversary in 2001, visits t the museum’s permanent cllectin nw begin with an informative 15min film called ‘The images of Bela Krajina’. Arranged fr the mst part chrnlgically, the ldest items in the cllectin are sme rudimentar y tls used in the area during the Nelithic perid, while the mst recent sectin f the permanent exhibitin cvers the difficult interwar years and WWII. Frm the latter yu can learn hw Bela Krajina became a free partisan territry during the last years f the war, which was a cmpletely unique phenmenn in Eurpe. In ther rms a significant amunt f space is dedicated t the nearly tw hundred years f cnstant threat f invasin by the Ottoman Turks during the 15th and 16th centuries, and here is als a very interesting viticulture exhibitin, shwing the traditinal wine grwing methds and equipment frm the last 200 years. The castle is als hme t the Metlika turist infrmatin centre, a temprary exhibitin space and a wine cellar. It’s als a ppular venue fr weddings and ther events. Elsewh ere in the regin the museum manages several ther cultural cllections including the Kambič Gallery in Metlika, the Semič Local Museum, the Črnomelj Municipal Museum and the Memorial Collection of Oton Župančič in Vinica. 2012/13
Kolpa RiveR need arose - paying back th e latter with a steep 50% ‘interest’ the fllwing harvest. A nvel system f keeping track f the accunts using lng wden sticks with lines carved int them was devised. Extra wine frm the cellar was als sld, with all the prceeds ging t things such as maintain pathways, renvating the twn church and paying fr funerals. Due t the accunting invlved the cellar is ften referred t the twn’s Wine Bank. Visits t the cellar can be arranged in advance.
The numerus dams alng the Klpa river used t prvide pwer fr mills, but nw mainly prvide excitement fr rafters, pht by YMB is actually true, the exterir f the plane has recently been restred, and lks as if it culd still take flight if the mment called fr it. The real mystery fr us is nt the s tatus r histry f the mighty flying machine, but the fact that n ne seems t knw hw r why the n earby village f otk (meaning island in Slvene) gt its name.
Slovenian Firefighters’ Museum Trg Svobode 5, tel. +386 (0)7 305 86 97,
[email protected], www. metlika.si. In August 1969, the doors were first opened on this museum dedicated t the histrical heritage f firefighting in Slovenia. The date was chosen as it marked the 100th anniversary f the frmatin f Slvenia’s very first vlun teer firefighters’ assciatin ri ght here in Metlika. Lcated in tw separate buildings, bth f which are just steps away frm Metlika’s castle in the heart f the ld twn, the vast cllectin is arranged chrnlgically. The first gallery cvers the funding and develpment f fire fighting in Slvenia with lts f well-presented well-presented pre-WWI phts frm assciatins all ver the cuntry, as well as memrabilia and light equipment such as helmets, unifrms and medals. In the next hall a similar cllecti n presents the years frm WWI t WWII and beynd, while sme ld fire engines and ther heavy equipment is displayed in the basement. The secnd building, which is t the right f the castle’s entrance, cntains an even larger cllectin f fire engines and equipment, including ne fire engine dating all the way back to 1836 (which at first may not even be recognisable as a fire engine), and another from1908 that was steam-powered steam-powered and built in Vienna. The museum is fficially named in hnur of Dr Branko Božič, who was the long-time president of the Firefighting Assciatin f Slvenia and the driving frce behind the museum’s establishment.
Tri Fare Pilgrimage in Rosalnice Tel. +386 (0)7 305 83 31. A prminant pilgrimage site, Rsalnice’s three Gthic churches have been suggested to date from perhaps the 12th century (n accunt f Valvasr and thers). Situated in the nrtheastern part f the village f Rsalnice (near Metlika), the site is ringed by a high wall. The nrthern f the three, The Church f our Lady f Srrws, is the largest and prbably earliest althugh specific dates are debated. It als has ne f the ldest pipe rgans in Slvenia and sme unique fresces. Building features features f the central, Ecce Hm (Behld the Man) Church, suggest i t dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, and elements were added including a prominant belfry in the 17th century. The southern church is that of Our Lady of Lourdes, Valvasor being the first to mention it in 1689, althugh grafitti recently fund suggests the cnstructin is much lder. The histrical timeline f the churches is lng and cmplex, but as a pilgrim site its height f significance seems to be in the 18-19th centuries, when those of both Cathlic and orthdx faith cngregated here. Guided turs f the churches can be arranged. Entrance is free f charge. Vinomer Birch Trees Althugh Bela Krajina’s famus
birch trees are nt as abundant as they were centuries ag, when the regin was given its name in part because f the vast white frests that grew here, there are still areas cvered with them. The mst ppular spt t view the trees (called breza in Slvene) is alng the rad between Metlika and Drašiči, where the sight of the thin white trunks is made all the mre intense by the sea f pillwy green ferns that blanket the entire area. These can grow as high as 2m, but when they’re cut in the late summer each year it lks almst like a glf curse. The frest is part f Metlika’s prtected Natura 2000 site, and is also several interesting plant and animal species including Ural owl.
Vinska Klet Metlika Cesta XV. Brigade 2, tel. +386 (0)7 3637000,
[email protected],
[email protected],w ww.kz-metlika.si. ww.kz-metlika.si. one f the images mst strngly assciated with Metlika, and indeed all of Bela Krajina, is the bottle of dry red Metliška Črnina wine and its label depicting a human pyramid with three gentlemen dressed in the traditinal white linen cstumes f the regin. A ubiquitus sight in supermarkets acrss the cuntry, the wine is prduced by Vinska Klet Metlika, which is part f a larger farm cperative called Kmetijska Zadruga Metlika. Working with some 200 indi vidual wine growers with vineyards in the sun-saked hills f Bela Krajina, in addi tin t Metliška
Soseska Zidanica Drašiči Drašiči 41, tel. +386 (0)41
A bird’s eye view f Metlika’s cmpact ld twn, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
Mst events in Bela Krajina feature traditinal dancers in the region’s unmistakable white costumes, photo by Tomaž Urh, Archive RIC
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
Vinska Vigred
753 017/+386 (0)31 306 180, www.soseskadrasici. net. outdating the funding f scialist Yugslavia by nearly two centuries, the Soseska Zidanica in the village of Drašiči (r Neighburhd Wine Cellar as it translates t in English) develped a cmmunity-wide system fr sharing wine and raising funds fr cmmunity prjects at the same time. As with many great ideas, this ne was brn ut f necessity, as it was ften the case that at times f big events (namely weddings) individual families did nt have a large enugh supply f their wn wine t meet the demands f thirsty guests. Thus is was agreed that a cmmunal wine cellar shuld be established, frm which every member was free t make ‘depsits’ when they had extra wine and take ‘withdrawals’ if the eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
23
The sun-saked hills arund Bela Krajina prvide the perfect climate fr prducing award-winning wine, pht by YMB eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Rafting on the Kolpa Rafting r caneing (r travelling in any ther water-brn vessel fr that matter) dwn the Klpa river during the summer is just abut ne f the mst enjyable ways t spend a day anywhere in Slvenia. Whitewater rafting this is nt, s adrenaline junkies may wish t lk elsewhere, but fr the rest f us a slw trip alng the water allws ample time fr appreciating the surrunding envirnment and stpping at varius pints t swim, visit attractins, have a picnic r explre. The upper sectins f the river keep a slightly less meanderin g pace and the water is a few degrees cooler than the 30°C or more it can reach further downstream. There are over 50 dams along the rute that d prvide a bit f excitement, but the key wrd n a Klpa rafting tri p is relaxatin. T arrange a trip yu can cntact ne f the agencies belw directly, r call r email ne f the lcal turist i nfrmatins centres and they can help with all the arrangements as well as prviding recmmendatins fr what may best suit yu.
Kolpa Adventures Srednji Radenci 2, Stari Trg
ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 518 536/+386 (0)51 205 159,
[email protected], www.kolpaadventures.com. Kolpa Raft Laze Pr Predgradu 1a, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 426 110/+386 (0)1 8943 754,
[email protected], www.kolparaft.com. Kolpa Rafting (Alen Klarič s.p.) Potok 4, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 806 355, raf
[email protected], www.raftingkolpa.com. Stari Pod Jankovič Gorenjci Pri Adlešičih 15, Adlešiči, te l. +386 (0)7 30 70 315/+386 315/+386 (0)41 880 330,
[email protected], www.kolpas.si. Črnina and a white called Belokranjec - both of which are prtected and certified by the Ministry f Agriculture under the PTP label - the cperative prduces a wide variety f mre than a dzen regular wines, as well as a selectin f special vintages such as extra sweet ice and dry grape wines. While the red Metliška Črnina is produced from a combination of Blue Franconian (60%) and the autochthonous Zametna Črnina (30%) grape varieties, the majority of wines here are actually white. Tastings and turs f the facilities can be arranged in advance for groups of up to 55 people.
Vinska Klet Prus Krmačina 6, tel. +386 (0)41 690 112/+386 (0)7 30 59098,
[email protected], ww w.vinaprus.si. If you follow the road past Drašiči to the even smaller village of Krmačina just before the Croatian b order, order, you’ll find ne f the mst decrated wine prducers in all f Slvenia: Vinska Klet Prus. of th e numerus awards that the vineyard has wn ver the past decade and a half (including several Decanters), the passionate and excitable owner Jožef Prus is mst prud f the all-arund Best Slvene Winemaker Winemaker award he has taken home for the past three years (2009-2011) and cunting. Awarded at the prestigius Grnja Radgna Wine Fair, the prize is gi ven nt fr a single wine, but i s based n the aggregate scres received by a prducer’s entire selectin. Althugh all f wine here is indeed f the highest quality, thanks t the vineyards’ psitin at the tp f sme f Bela Krajina’s highest, sunniest hills, the speciality f the winery is undubtedly sweet whites, namely Rumeni Muškat, as well as even sweeter late harvest and ice wines, which are frequently included by the State Prtcl Services during frmal events at Brd pri Kranju. The wine cellar and prductin facilities were completely rebuilt in 2009, and can now accommodate tastings of up to 60 people or more. 2012/13
25
24
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
Kolpa RiveR need arose - paying back th e latter with a steep 50% ‘interest’ the fllwing harvest. A nvel system f keeping track f the accunts using lng wden sticks with lines carved int them was devised. Extra wine frm the cellar was als sld, with all the prceeds ging t things such as maintain pathways, renvating the twn church and paying fr funerals. Due t the accunting invlved the cellar is ften referred t the twn’s Wine Bank. Visits t the cellar can be arranged in advance.
Vinska Vigred www.vinskavigred.com. In a regin knwn fr its win e, the Vinska Vigred festival is the largest wine event in Bela Krajina, attracting thusands visitrs t Metlika’s ld twn ver three days during the thi rd weekend in May each year. First held more than 30 years ago, the event began strictly as a wine fair fr exhibiting and tasting lcal wines, but it has since grwn int a multi-faceted cultural festival as well. Nwadays the festival basts three separate stages fr music, flklre and ther perfrmances, and varius smaller stands presenting traditinal handicrafts, artistic prducts and f curse lots and lots of wine - there are over 300 different types, s if yu plan t try them all, yu’d better pace yurself! one thing visitrs need nt wrry abut is drinking up an appetite, as there is als lts f tasty fd n hand, including rasted lamb, suckling pigs and f curse plenty of freshly baked Belokranjska pogača flat bread.
Kambič Gallery Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 51, tel. +386 (0)7 305 8332, b
[email protected]. si. The namesake f this gallery happens t be a cllectr, whose birthhouse it is now housed in. Vinko Kambič (19202001), a doctor, professor professor and Dean of the Faculty of M edicine in Ljubljana, and Vilma Bukovec Kambič, his wife and opera singer, singer, were smething f cnisseurs f Slvene impressinists and aggregated names such as Ks, Kregar, Pavlvec, Perko and Pogačnik. To be found on the ground floor and in the attic, respecti vely, are the temprary temprary exhibitins f wrks by lesser knwn artists and the memrial f the cllectrs and frmer prprietrs. Being managed by the Bela Krajina Museum and owned by the Muni cipality of Metlika, Kambič is well-run and a pleasure t experience as a visitr. Otok’s DC-3 If you’re driving from Metlika to Črnomelj and see smething ut f the crner f yur eye t the left beynd glden wheat fields, rest assured that yu’re nt hallucinating, that is in fact an ac tual WWII-era Duglas DC-3 - r t be mre precise, it’s technically a mdi fied DC-3 that was referred t as a C-47 Skytrain or Dakota. What is the plane doing in this therwise nrmal-lking field? Decmmissined by the Yugslav Natinal Army in the years fllwing the war, it was placed here t cmmemrate all f the A merican and British sldiers wh used such planes t fly wunded partisan fighters frm a makeshift airprt in the liberated territry f Bela Krajina t Allied hspitals in Italy. Rumur has it that when the plane was first set here, it cntained all f its riginal equipment, which then slwly disappeared ver ver the years. Regardless Regardless f whether r nt this
The numerus dams alng the Klpa river used t prvide pwer fr mills, but nw mainly prvide excitement fr rafters, pht by YMB is actually true, the exterir f the plane has recently been restred, and lks as if it culd still take flight if the mment called fr it. The real mystery fr us is nt the s tatus r histry f the mighty flying machine, but the fact that n ne seems t knw hw r why the n earby village f otk (meaning island in Slvene) gt its name.
Slovenian Firefighters’ Museum Trg Svobode 5, tel. +386 (0)7 305 86 97,
[email protected], www. metlika.si. In August 1969, the doors were first opened on this museum dedicated t the histrical heritage f firefighting in Slovenia. The date was chosen as it marked the 100th anniversary f the frmatin f Slvenia’s very first vlun teer firefighters’ assciatin ri ght here in Metlika. Lcated in tw separate buildings, bth f which are just steps away frm Metlika’s castle in the heart f the ld twn, the vast cllectin is arranged chrnlgically. The first gallery cvers the funding and develpment f fire fighting in Slvenia with lts f well-presented well-presented pre-WWI phts frm assciatins all ver the cuntry, as well as memrabilia and light equipment such as helmets, unifrms and medals. In the next hall a similar cllecti n presents the years frm WWI t WWII and beynd, while sme ld fire engines and ther heavy equipment is displayed in the basement. The secnd building, which is t the right f the castle’s entrance, cntains an even larger cllectin f fire engines and equipment, including ne fire engine dating all the way back to 1836 (which at first may not even be recognisable as a fire engine), and another from1908 that was steam-powered steam-powered and built in Vienna. The museum is fficially named in hnur of Dr Branko Božič, who was the long-time president of the Firefighting Assciatin f Slvenia and the driving frce behind the museum’s establishment.
Tri Fare Pilgrimage in Rosalnice Tel. +386 (0)7 305 83 31. A prminant pilgrimage site, Rsalnice’s three Gthic churches have been suggested to date from perhaps the 12th century (n accunt f Valvasr and thers). Situated in the nrtheastern part f the village f Rsalnice (near Metlika), the site is ringed by a high wall. The nrthern f the three, The Church f our Lady f Srrws, is the largest and prbably earliest althugh specific dates are debated. It als has ne f the ldest pipe rgans in Slvenia and sme unique fresces. Building features features f the central, Ecce Hm (Behld the Man) Church, suggest i t dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, and elements were added including a prominant belfry in the 17th century. The southern church is that of Our Lady of Lourdes, Valvasor being the first to mention it in 1689, althugh grafitti recently fund suggests the cnstructin is much lder. The histrical timeline f the churches is lng and cmplex, but as a pilgrim site its height f significance seems to be in the 18-19th centuries, when those of both Cathlic and orthdx faith cngregated here. Guided turs f the churches can be arranged. Entrance is free f charge. Vinomer Birch Trees Althugh Bela Krajina’s famus
birch trees are nt as abundant as they were centuries ag, when the regin was given its name in part because f the vast white frests that grew here, there are still areas cvered with them. The mst ppular spt t view the trees (called breza in Slvene) is alng the rad between Metlika and Drašiči, where the sight of the thin white trunks is made all the mre intense by the sea f pillwy green ferns that blanket the entire area. These can grow as high as 2m, but when they’re cut in the late summer each year it lks almst like a glf curse. The frest is part f Metlika’s prtected Natura 2000 site, and is also several interesting plant and animal species including Ural owl.
Vinska Klet Metlika Cesta XV. Brigade 2, tel. +386 (0)7 3637000,
[email protected],
[email protected],w ww.kz-metlika.si. ww.kz-metlika.si. one f the images mst strngly assciated with Metlika, and indeed all of Bela Krajina, is the bottle of dry red Metliška Črnina wine and its label depicting a human pyramid with three gentlemen dressed in the traditinal white linen cstumes f the regin. A ubiquitus sight in supermarkets acrss the cuntry, the wine is prduced by Vinska Klet Metlika, which is part f a larger farm cperative called Kmetijska Zadruga Metlika. Working with some 200 indi vidual wine growers with vineyards in the sun-saked hills f Bela Krajina, in addi tin t Metliška
Soseska Zidanica Drašiči Drašiči 41, tel. +386 (0)41
A bird’s eye view f Metlika’s cmpact ld twn, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
753 017/+386 (0)31 306 180, www.soseskadrasici. net. outdating the funding f scialist Yugslavia by nearly two centuries, the Soseska Zidanica in the village of Drašiči (r Neighburhd Wine Cellar as it translates t in English) develped a cmmunity-wide system fr sharing wine and raising funds fr cmmunity prjects at the same time. As with many great ideas, this ne was brn ut f necessity, as it was ften the case that at times f big events (namely weddings) individual families did nt have a large enugh supply f their wn wine t meet the demands f thirsty guests. Thus is was agreed that a cmmunal wine cellar shuld be established, frm which every member was free t make ‘depsits’ when they had extra wine and take ‘withdrawals’ if the eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
26
The sun-saked hills arund Bela Krajina prvide the perfect climate fr prducing award-winning wine, pht by YMB
Rafting on the Kolpa Rafting r caneing (r travelling in any ther water-brn vessel fr that matter) dwn the Klpa river during the summer is just abut ne f the mst enjyable ways t spend a day anywhere in Slvenia. Whitewater rafting this is nt, s adrenaline junkies may wish t lk elsewhere, but fr the rest f us a slw trip alng the water allws ample time fr appreciating the surrunding envirnment and stpping at varius pints t swim, visit attractins, have a picnic r explre. The upper sectins f the river keep a slightly less meanderin g pace and the water is a few degrees cooler than the 30°C or more it can reach further downstream. There are over 50 dams along the rute that d prvide a bit f excitement, but the key wrd n a Klpa rafting tri p is relaxatin. T arrange a trip yu can cntact ne f the agencies belw directly, r call r email ne f the lcal turist i nfrmatins centres and they can help with all the arrangements as well as prviding recmmendatins fr what may best suit yu.
Kolpa Adventures Srednji Radenci 2, Stari Trg
ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 518 536/+386 (0)51 205 159,
[email protected], www.kolpaadventures.com. Kolpa Raft Laze Pr Predgradu 1a, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 426 110/+386 (0)1 8943 754,
[email protected], www.kolparaft.com. Kolpa Rafting (Alen Klarič s.p.) Potok 4, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 806 355, raf
[email protected], www.raftingkolpa.com. Stari Pod Jankovič Gorenjci Pri Adlešičih 15, Adlešiči, te l. +386 (0)7 30 70 315/+386 315/+386 (0)41 880 330,
[email protected], www.kolpas.si. Črnina and a white called Belokranjec - both of which are prtected and certified by the Ministry f Agriculture under the PTP label - the cperative prduces a wide variety f mre than a dzen regular wines, as well as a selectin f special vintages such as extra sweet ice and dry grape wines. While the red Metliška Črnina is produced from a combination of Blue Franconian (60%) and the autochthonous Zametna Črnina (30%) grape varieties, the majority of wines here are actually white. Tastings and turs f the facilities can be arranged in advance for groups of up to 55 people.
Vinska Klet Prus Krmačina 6, tel. +386 (0)41 690 112/+386 (0)7 30 59098,
[email protected], ww w.vinaprus.si. If you follow the road past Drašiči to the even smaller village of Krmačina just before the Croatian b order, order, you’ll find ne f the mst decrated wine prducers in all f Slvenia: Vinska Klet Prus. of th e numerus awards that the vineyard has wn ver the past decade and a half (including several Decanters), the passionate and excitable owner Jožef Prus is mst prud f the all-arund Best Slvene Winemaker Winemaker award he has taken home for the past three years (2009-2011) and cunting. Awarded at the prestigius Grnja Radgna Wine Fair, the prize is gi ven nt fr a single wine, but i s based n the aggregate scres received by a prducer’s entire selectin. Althugh all f wine here is indeed f the highest quality, thanks t the vineyards’ psitin at the tp f sme f Bela Krajina’s highest, sunniest hills, the speciality f the winery is undubtedly sweet whites, namely Rumeni Muškat, as well as even sweeter late harvest and ice wines, which are frequently included by the State Prtcl Services during frmal events at Brd pri Kranju. The wine cellar and prductin facilities were completely rebuilt in 2009, and can now accommodate tastings of up to 60 people or more.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
Semič Semič is something like a little brother to Bela Krajina’s two lder, larger and much mre well-knwn municipalities, Metlika and Črnomelj. However However,, the town does have a surprise r tw up its sleeve fr visitrs, including the fact that while it has less than h alf the ppulatin f Metlika, it’s actually some 30% larger in size. And although Semič is also the nly municipality included in the Klpa river regin that the Klpa river desn’t flw thrugh (at it’s nearest pint it’s just over 2km away), it is an inseparable part of the destination. The western two-thirds of Semič’s area is comprised of the sparsely inhabited forests of the Kočevje Kočevje Rog mountains, while much f the rest is made up f fertile hills and fields that are ideal fr vineyards and have been pu t t gd use fr such purpses. The Church of St Stephan, which was likely built in th e 12th century, is the dminant feature f the twn’s appearance, set n a small square f th e same name and rising abve everything else. Meanwhile the newly built cultural centre and library have becme the main fcal pint f cultural life fr lcals, and with its mdern design the building ng definitely stands ut frm its surrundings. outside f the twn itself, the main sights include the pwerful karst spring that is the surce f the Krupa river, the ruins f Smuk castle n a hill verlking the valley, valley, the peak f Mirna Gra (the highest muntain in the regi n) and f curse the many vineyards that can be fund in all directins.
What to See in Semič The Source of the Krupa RiverWhen it cmes t springs,
yu never knw what yu’re ging t get. While a bubbling puddle in the middle f a field r a trickle f water cming ut f rck have every right t call themselves springs, these lesser phenmena dn’t d much t impress visitrs. on the ther hand, the karst spring a few kilometres south of Semič is a spring of the first order. With a 30m high cliff of colourful tectonic la yers serving as a backdrp and reflecting in the water, it is ne f the f the mst beautiful sig hts in the regin, and if yu’re here n a Saturday yu can expect t see newlyweds having their pht taken. Despite its placid utward appearance, benea th the turquise waters an average of 1000 litres of water per second is gushing ou t from a vast netwrk f subterranean waterways, feeding the Krupa fr its shrt jurney t the Lahinja river. The spring is als hme t the infamus creature knwn as the human fish (r mre prperly t he prteus anguinus) as well as a rare type f cave mussel, an d the area around the spring and the entire 2.5km length of the Krupa river were designated a protected natural monument in 1997.
The famus birch and fern frests fr which Bela Krajina was named, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB EDEN Slovenia
Kolpa RiveR
Semiška Ohcet
Kostelska Rakija
In the town of Semič the most festive day of the year is nt a religius hliday, Slvenia’s independence day r New Year’s Eve - it’s a Saturday in July when multiple yung cuples participate in a traditinal wedding celebration. Semiška Ohcet, which means Semič wedding, is als the name f a well-knwn flklre grup that is the main attraction at the event. Founded in 1945, the grup has frequently perfrmed thrughut Bela Krajina, Slvenia, the frmer Yugslavia and elsewhere in Europe for over 60 years. Other folklore groups also perfrm, and lcal cttage industries, handicrafts and traditinal cuisine are presented. Traditinal weddings had all but died out in Bela Krajina by the 1990s, so the first Semiška Ohcet was organised in 1995 in rder t preserve and prmte the regin’s cultural heritage.
Located on the steep hilly terrain between the Kočevje highlands and Klpa river, Kstel is cvered in thick dark frests with thatare hmet almst almst asmany bears bears ashumans. As mystical as it all appears, living in su ch a rugged land is nt easy, and the inhabitants here need smething a little strnger than beer r wine t take the edge ff - r at least this is what we assume, sinc e ne f the regin’s main agricultural prducts is Kstelska Rakija. This fruit-based schnapps is made primarily frm apples (jablkv) and pears (hruškv), but als frm plums (slivvka) and mixed fruit (sadjevec), (sadjevec), and is an f ficially prtected spirit and a registered trademark f the Turist and Sprt Assciatin f Kstel. This means that if yu see the label yu are nt nly assured that it’s f the highest quality, but was als prduced using traditinal methds. Quality is strictly cntrlled by a special cmmissin f prfessinal rakija tasters - which is surely ne f the best jbs in Slvenia! - wh assess the fiery spirit in terms f taste, fragrance, clur and clarity. The samples that score less than 15 out of a possible 20 points are deemed unwrthy f the fficial label (althugh we assume they dn’t g t waste). At the turist ffice in Kstel and ther inf pints arund the regin yu can find a free catalgue that describes the distillatin prcess in details and als presents mre infrmatin abut sme the indigenus fruit that is used. of curse the best way t find ut mre abut Kstelska Rakija is t visit ne f the lcal distilleries and try it fr yurself!
The Orchard of Dr Derganc In the past nearly every
hmestead in the regin f Bela Krajina was surrunded by rchards, which nt nly prvided fresh fruit fr the inhabitants, but als prtected them frm the scrching sun in the summer and cld winds in the winter, and prevented the sil n steeper terrain frm erding. While nwadays there are not as many orchards as there used to be, in 1983 a local dctr by the name f Viktr Derganc dnated his carefully tended land t the Paraplegic Assciatin f Slvenia, s that it culd be used as a place f relaxatin and well-being for guests. In 2010, the property in Semič was opened as a learning garden t further encurage an awareness f fruit grwing and the regin’s agricultural traditins in general. Visitrs can see apple, pear, peach, aprict, cherry, prune and walnut trees, as well as specimens hazel, elder, medlar and quince. A bust f the gd dctr is fund near the in frmatin bard utside, while the Paraplegic Assciatin has als set up an exhibitin f paintings and handicrafts inside.
Kočevje The largest municipality in all f Slvenia by area, cvering a total of 564 km2 with some 17,000 inhabitants, Kočevje Kočevje is one of th e most preserved natural parts of Slovenia and all of central Europe, with 90% of the lan d scape cvered by frests. Fr thse wishing t explre this pristine natural envirnment, much f the area is marked with varius hiking trails and natural learning paths, as well as cycling rutes, which lead thrugh nature preserves, virgin frests, Karst caves, viewing pints and a hidden animal wrld - the latter mst ntably including the largest p pulatin f Slvenia’s famus famus brown bear. But as the true jewel of the Kočevje region is the Klpa river at its suthernmst end, twisting and turning thrugh the lush green frested hills. The town of Kočevje, is the administrative, economic and cultural centre f the municipality. originally built up by German speakers in the 14th century, this sl eepy provinprovincial capital has a unique histry and makes a pleasant base fr explring the surrunding area. Secessinist architecture gives the twn a slightl y regal appearance, with varius ld villas lining the main rad, while the mst impressive building is the ne-Rmanesque parish church of St Jernej dating from the turn of the 20th century, whse twin bell twers als serve as gd pint f reference. The twn basts several gd restaurants and a casin, while there is plenty t see an d d nearby, including a thriving lake, pnd and restred well and f curse miles upn miles f frest. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The source of the Krupa river in Semič, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
What to See in Kočevje Kočevje Lake one f the little talked abut and perhaps unexpected side benefi ts of industry, Kočevje lake was was inad vertantly frmed after the clsure f a cal mine here in the late 1970s. The stream water formerly used for washing the cal flded the mine site, thus creating a thriving ecsystem and highly appreciated recreatin site. Sixty-fur species f bird nest here (15 of which are on the red endangered list), on migratin paths spanning nrth ern Eurpe t Africa, thereare 15 species of dragonfly and the lake’s banks are bestowed with lush flra. Summertime sees swimming, winter ice skating (prviding there’s sufficient ice) and there’s even a 3km educatinal trail with infrmatin bards. Pond in Jelenja Vas Wrth a lk if yu’re charmed by
quaint rural villages and/r yu’re lking fr sme natural swimming during the summer heat. In the ld days village wmen wuld d their washing at the banks f the lake, the children wuld swim r ice-skate depending n the seasn. There’s a well and pond, both restored in 2002, situate d in a a karst valley just off the road from Kočevje to Predgrad. Af ter the pnd yu enter the village f Jelenja vas, in the centre f the valley and abve the river Klpa, alng the Brezvica t Stari Trg b Klpi rad.
Tamburanje va Kostele Taking its name frm the tamburica, a lng-necked lute that is a traditinal musical instrument in this part f Slvenia and thrughut the Bal kans, the festival is much mre than a mere musical event, and ffers visitrs a chance t experience a rich and clurful prgramme encmpassing cultural, ethnlgical and eclgical activities, as well as sprts cmpetitins. In additin t a suvenir and lcal handicrafts market and varius perfrmances that are entertaining fr the whle family, the highlights fr us include the traditinal cstume parade and the big party (Kstevska Veselica) that brings the event t a clse. The Tamburanje va Kstele is held in Kostel each summer around 15 August.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
25
Regional Museum Kočevje Prešernova 11, tel. +386
(0)1 895 03 03/+386 (0)51 26 99 72, fax +386 (0)1 895 03 05,
[email protected], www.pmk-kocevje. si. Hused in the same building where partisans cnvened in 1943 for the first parliament of the Slovene nation, Kočevje’s reginal museum has presented the area’s heritage since 1960. There are two permanent exhibitions: the first is a collection of Božidar Jakac drawings depicting the Kočevska regin and is cnsidered imprtant heritage f the German ppulatin wh previusly lived here, while the secnd is dedicated t Slvene natinhd and its cnceptin, ‘frm idea t republic’. Visits t the museum can be pre-arranged utside f fficial pening times, with German r English speaking guides prvided (when arranged at least a week in advance). Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00. 08:00-15:00.
Kstel Thugh twice as ppulus as its neighbur osilnica upriver, with less than 700 inhabitants Kostel is still one of the smallest municipalities in Slvenia. Hwever, thanks t its famus castle - perfectly placed atp a hill verlking ne f the mst picturesque stretches f the Klpa river valley - the name Kstel is well-knwn thrughut the cuntry. The municipality is mre than just ne building 2012/13
27
26
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR
Semič Semič is something like a little brother to Bela Krajina’s two lder, larger and much mre well-knwn municipalities, Metlika and Črnomelj. However However,, the town does have a surprise r tw up its sleeve fr visitrs, including the fact that while it has less than h alf the ppulatin f Metlika, it’s actually some 30% larger in size. And although Semič is also the nly municipality included in the Klpa river regin that the Klpa river desn’t flw thrugh (at it’s nearest pint it’s just over 2km away), it is an inseparable part of the destination. The western two-thirds of Semič’s area is comprised of the sparsely inhabited forests of the Kočevje Kočevje Rog mountains, while much f the rest is made up f fertile hills and fields that are ideal fr vineyards and have been pu t t gd use fr such purpses. The Church of St Stephan, which was likely built in th e 12th century, is the dminant feature f the twn’s appearance, set n a small square f th e same name and rising abve everything else. Meanwhile the newly built cultural centre and library have becme the main fcal pint f cultural life fr lcals, and with its mdern design the building ng definitely stands ut frm its surrundings. outside f the twn itself, the main sights include the pwerful karst spring that is the surce f the Krupa river, the ruins f Smuk castle n a hill verlking the valley, valley, the peak f Mirna Gra (the highest muntain in the regi n) and f curse the many vineyards that can be fund in all directins.
What to See in Semič The Source of the Krupa RiverWhen it cmes t springs,
yu never knw what yu’re ging t get. While a bubbling puddle in the middle f a field r a trickle f water cming ut f rck have every right t call themselves springs, these lesser phenmena dn’t d much t impress visitrs. on the ther hand, the karst spring a few kilometres south of Semič is a spring of the first order. With a 30m high cliff of colourful tectonic la yers serving as a backdrp and reflecting in the water, it is ne f the f the mst beautiful sig hts in the regin, and if yu’re here n a Saturday yu can expect t see newlyweds having their pht taken. Despite its placid utward appearance, benea th the turquise waters an average of 1000 litres of water per second is gushing ou t from a vast netwrk f subterranean waterways, feeding the Krupa fr its shrt jurney t the Lahinja river. The spring is als hme t the infamus creature knwn as the human fish (r mre prperly t he prteus anguinus) as well as a rare type f cave mussel, an d the area around the spring and the entire 2.5km length of the Krupa river were designated a protected natural monument in 1997.
The famus birch and fern frests fr which Bela Krajina was named, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB EDEN Slovenia
28
Kolpa RiveR
Semiška Ohcet
Kostelska Rakija
In the town of Semič the most festive day of the year is nt a religius hliday, Slvenia’s independence day r New Year’s Eve - it’s a Saturday in July when multiple yung cuples participate in a traditinal wedding celebration. Semiška Ohcet, which means Semič wedding, is als the name f a well-knwn flklre grup that is the main attraction at the event. Founded in 1945, the grup has frequently perfrmed thrughut Bela Krajina, Slvenia, the frmer Yugslavia and elsewhere in Europe for over 60 years. Other folklore groups also perfrm, and lcal cttage industries, handicrafts and traditinal cuisine are presented. Traditinal weddings had all but died out in Bela Krajina by the 1990s, so the first Semiška Ohcet was organised in 1995 in rder t preserve and prmte the regin’s cultural heritage.
Located on the steep hilly terrain between the Kočevje highlands and Klpa river, Kstel is cvered in thick dark frests with thatare hmet almst almst asmany bears bears ashumans. As mystical as it all appears, living in su ch a rugged land is nt easy, and the inhabitants here need smething a little strnger than beer r wine t take the edge ff - r at least this is what we assume, sinc e ne f the regin’s main agricultural prducts is Kstelska Rakija. This fruit-based schnapps is made primarily frm apples (jablkv) and pears (hruškv), but als frm plums (slivvka) and mixed fruit (sadjevec), (sadjevec), and is an f ficially prtected spirit and a registered trademark f the Turist and Sprt Assciatin f Kstel. This means that if yu see the label yu are nt nly assured that it’s f the highest quality, but was als prduced using traditinal methds. Quality is strictly cntrlled by a special cmmissin f prfessinal rakija tasters - which is surely ne f the best jbs in Slvenia! - wh assess the fiery spirit in terms f taste, fragrance, clur and clarity. The samples that score less than 15 out of a possible 20 points are deemed unwrthy f the fficial label (althugh we assume they dn’t g t waste). At the turist ffice in Kstel and ther inf pints arund the regin yu can find a free catalgue that describes the distillatin prcess in details and als presents mre infrmatin abut sme the indigenus fruit that is used. of curse the best way t find ut mre abut Kstelska Rakija is t visit ne f the lcal distilleries and try it fr yurself!
The Orchard of Dr Derganc In the past nearly every
hmestead in the regin f Bela Krajina was surrunded by rchards, which nt nly prvided fresh fruit fr the inhabitants, but als prtected them frm the scrching sun in the summer and cld winds in the winter, and prevented the sil n steeper terrain frm erding. While nwadays there are not as many orchards as there used to be, in 1983 a local dctr by the name f Viktr Derganc dnated his carefully tended land t the Paraplegic Assciatin f Slvenia, s that it culd be used as a place f relaxatin and well-being for guests. In 2010, the property in Semič was opened as a learning garden t further encurage an awareness f fruit grwing and the regin’s agricultural traditins in general. Visitrs can see apple, pear, peach, aprict, cherry, prune and walnut trees, as well as specimens hazel, elder, medlar and quince. A bust f the gd dctr is fund near the in frmatin bard utside, while the Paraplegic Assciatin has als set up an exhibitin f paintings and handicrafts inside.
Kočevje The largest municipality in all f Slvenia by area, cvering a total of 564 km2 with some 17,000 inhabitants, Kočevje Kočevje is one of th e most preserved natural parts of Slovenia and all of central Europe, with 90% of the lan d scape cvered by frests. Fr thse wishing t explre this pristine natural envirnment, much f the area is marked with varius hiking trails and natural learning paths, as well as cycling rutes, which lead thrugh nature preserves, virgin frests, Karst caves, viewing pints and a hidden animal wrld - the latter mst ntably including the largest p pulatin f Slvenia’s famus famus brown bear. But as the true jewel of the Kočevje region is the Klpa river at its suthernmst end, twisting and turning thrugh the lush green frested hills. The town of Kočevje, is the administrative, economic and cultural centre f the municipality. originally built up by German speakers in the 14th century, this sl eepy provinprovincial capital has a unique histry and makes a pleasant base fr explring the surrunding area. Secessinist architecture gives the twn a slightl y regal appearance, with varius ld villas lining the main rad, while the mst impressive building is the ne-Rmanesque parish church of St Jernej dating from the turn of the 20th century, whse twin bell twers als serve as gd pint f reference. The twn basts several gd restaurants and a casin, while there is plenty t see an d d nearby, including a thriving lake, pnd and restred well and f curse miles upn miles f frest. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The source of the Krupa river in Semič, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
What to See in Kočevje Kočevje Lake one f the little talked abut and perhaps unexpected side benefi ts of industry, Kočevje lake was was inad vertantly frmed after the clsure f a cal mine here in the late 1970s. The stream water formerly used for washing the cal flded the mine site, thus creating a thriving ecsystem and highly appreciated recreatin site. Sixty-fur species f bird nest here (15 of which are on the red endangered list), on migratin paths spanning nrth ern Eurpe t Africa, thereare 15 species of dragonfly and the lake’s banks are bestowed with lush flra. Summertime sees swimming, winter ice skating (prviding there’s sufficient ice) and there’s even a 3km educatinal trail with infrmatin bards. Pond in Jelenja Vas Wrth a lk if yu’re charmed by
quaint rural villages and/r yu’re lking fr sme natural swimming during the summer heat. In the ld days village wmen wuld d their washing at the banks f the lake, the children wuld swim r ice-skate depending n the seasn. There’s a well and pond, both restored in 2002, situate d in a a karst valley just off the road from Kočevje to Predgrad. Af ter the pnd yu enter the village f Jelenja vas, in the centre f the valley and abve the river Klpa, alng the Brezvica t Stari Trg b Klpi rad.
Tamburanje va Kostele Taking its name frm the tamburica, a lng-necked lute that is a traditinal musical instrument in this part f Slvenia and thrughut the Bal kans, the festival is much mre than a mere musical event, and ffers visitrs a chance t experience a rich and clurful prgramme encmpassing cultural, ethnlgical and eclgical activities, as well as sprts cmpetitins. In additin t a suvenir and lcal handicrafts market and varius perfrmances that are entertaining fr the whle family, the highlights fr us include the traditinal cstume parade and the big party (Kstevska Veselica) that brings the event t a clse. The Tamburanje va Kstele is held in Kostel each summer around 15 August.
Regional Museum Kočevje Prešernova 11, tel. +386
(0)1 895 03 03/+386 (0)51 26 99 72, fax +386 (0)1 895 03 05,
[email protected], www.pmk-kocevje. si. Hused in the same building where partisans cnvened in 1943 for the first parliament of the Slovene nation, Kočevje’s reginal museum has presented the area’s heritage since 1960. There are two permanent exhibitions: the first is a collection of Božidar Jakac drawings depicting the Kočevska regin and is cnsidered imprtant heritage f the German ppulatin wh previusly lived here, while the secnd is dedicated t Slvene natinhd and its cnceptin, ‘frm idea t republic’. Visits t the museum can be pre-arranged utside f fficial pening times, with German r English speaking guides prvided (when arranged at least a week in advance). Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00. 08:00-15:00.
Kstel Thugh twice as ppulus as its neighbur osilnica upriver, with less than 700 inhabitants Kostel is still one of the smallest municipalities in Slvenia. Hwever, thanks t its famus castle - perfectly placed atp a hill verlking ne f the mst picturesque stretches f the Klpa river valley - the name Kstel is well-knwn thrughut the cuntry. The municipality is mre than just ne building
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR thugh, and the main built-up area here (if yu can call it that) is the settlement f Fara and several ther small hamlets further dwn the rad leading t the brder crssing with Cratia. The incredibly rugged karst landscape is perfect fr hikers and cyclists lking fr a bit f a challenge and a lt f beau tiful scenery. There are a few turist farms t stp at fr a bite, and lts f natural attractins, such as waterfalls and caves. If yu stay here n a cld night, dn’t frget t frtify frtify yur wn spirit with the lcally prduced spirit called Kstelska Rakija, while in the summertime the biggest day on the calendar is 15 August, when the traditradi tinal Tamburanje va Kstele ethnlgical festival is held.
The Legend of Peter Klepec The stry f Peter Klepec is ne f the mst widely knwn flktales in Slvenia. Likely riginating sometime in the 16th or 17th century, it was passed dwn rally frm generatin t generatin until finally taking written frm many years late r. Peter Klepec was a kind, hard-wrking sepherd by frm a very pr family in the village f osi lnica, wh struggled t make ends meet n a farm where hardly any crps wuld grw. Peter was nt the strngest by arund, and as adlescent males tend to do (apparently even 500 years ago) Peter was the victim f sme rather unpleasant bullying at the hands f the ther yun g shepherds - being frced t d their wrk, serving as the butt f their jkes and even taking a beating frm time t time. one ht summer day while Peter was ff trying t find water fr his trmentrs, his flck disappeared. While he was searching fr the wayward sheep he came acrss a beautiful yung girl sleeping in a meadw. Being the kindly by he was, Peter tk the time frm his despera te search t arrange sme branches t prvide shade fr this lvely maiden during her afternn siesta. This humble act turned ut t be a decisive ne, because when the girl awke Peter fund ut that she was nt a girl after all, but ne f the mysterius muntain fairies wh ppulate the frests here. T shw her gratitude, she tld Peter that she wuld grant him ne wish, t which the by (making the classic mistake f nt wishing fr mre wishes!) asked simply t be strng. Despite being sceptical at first, Peter quickly discvered that he culd uprt giant trees and hist enrmu s bulders ver his head. And the rest, as they say is histry. After lcating his lst flck, Peter set abut wrapping up sme ther lse ends. First he subtly made it knwn t the ther shepherds that they’d be ding their wn wrk frm then n. Next he remved all the rcks frm his mther’s garden, s plentiful crps culd grw. And finally, in smeversins f the stry at least, he defeated all f the invading Turkish armies and saved the entire regin frm ottman rule, which surely played n small part in helping t cement his legac y as a flk her in bth Slvenia and neighburing Cratia. In the past century r s the stry has been depicted in varius different artistic mediums, including cuntless bks. The mst famus versin is likely France Bevk’s work from 1958, which includes beautiful illustrations by the nted Slvene painter Tne Kralj.
EDEN Slovenia
Kolpa RiveR What t See in Kstel
osilnica
Kostel Castle Kstel’s mighty castle is inarguably ne
With a ppulatin f just ver tw millin, Slvenia has managed t make lcal administratin a true art frm, so far dividing itself into an astounding 211 separate municipalities as of 2011. But even in a country so keen n creating ever smaller administrative units, nly ne can lay claim t the title f being the smallest - and with a ttal population of only 332 inhabitants, Osilnica is that one (by quite a large margin even). Hwever, as the saying ges, gd things d indeed cme in small packages. Despite its size, osilnica is ntable fr tw primary reasns: It is the land f Peter Klepec, ne f Slvenia’s mst belved flk heres, and it is the place where the Čabranka and Kupa rivers converge to form the Kolpa. Just a cuple hundred metres frm the cnfluence is the Kovač Hotel and Sport Centre, the modern family-run establishment that is the primary turist destinatin in the area. While the unspilt nature f the surrunding area and timeless images f rural life are the main bject f phtgraphers lenses, there are als n less than seven aged churches and cuntless chapels in the municipality,
f the mst magnificent and recgnisable in all f Slvenia, which is n small feat in a cuntry that is nt exactly lacking in frtified residences. Nt nly is Kstel the secnd largest castle cmplex in Slvenia (after Celje’s Stari Grad), but it’s image als adrns the label f a ppular Slvene brand of bottled water that is produced nearby. Built in the 13th century, the castle lng-served as an imprtant defensive utpst against frequent Turkish incursins, and dutifully withstd all but ne f their attempts t capture it ver a perid f centuries. Nwadays the castle itself and its immediate grunds are sadly clsed t the public, with the blame fr this falling squarely n the shulders f the French, wh destryed it in 1809 as punishment for a local rebellion. After a wait of nearly two centuries renovations works finally began in 1999, but this majr prject is still nging and the castle’s interir is currently clsed fr sightseeing. Hwever, it’s well wrth the shrt drive frm the main rad t take a clser lk and experience the mightiness f the castl e cmplex fr yurself. There’s a large parking area n the left just be fre yu reach the village Kstel, frm where it’s a shrt walk t the best vantage pint n the path leading up t the castle gates. A large inf bard has a detailed histry f the castle, church and village in English.
Svet Kolpe www.svet-kolpe.si. It is believed by sme
that there is a strng bi-energy field with a spine f seven chakras running acrss Eurpe, frm rts in the Greek island f Crete t the crwn in Iceland. The large central Eurpe chakra passes directly thrugh the Klpa regin in Slvenia and represents the slar plexus, which acts as a sr t f inner sun prviding life frces t the rest f Eurpe. In the area f the Klpa, this perhaps difficult t imagine and impssible t see cncept has been put int cncrete frm thrugh the Svet Klpe prject, which has b een rganised by the municipality f Kstel and thers in the area. T make the energy more palpable, a series of 40 white stone monoliths with special symbls carved int them have been arranged at various points throughout the Kolpa and Čabranka river valleys. This practice is referred t as lithpuncture, as in a manner similar t acupuncture it helps t pen the energy present in the land. Even thse wh are sceptical f such ‘new age’ beliefs may want t take the time t stp and see i f they feel any different while while near the stnes - at wrst they will get t enjy a beautiful view. English language in frmatin bards and maps are psted at many f the sites, and brchures can be fund at many turist ffices.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
including the 17th century Church St Giles in Ribjek, which is the ldest preserved church in the entire regin f the Kočevje forest. Squeezed into an area of some 36km 2 between the rcky Brvška Gra muntain range n ne side and the Klpa river (as well as the Schengen brder with Cratia) n the ther, the municipality includes varius tiny settlements alng the river leading t osilnica twn frm the suth, as well as several mre hamlets and farming estates in the hills t the nrth, making it quite literally ne f the mst islated crners f Slvenia. Until recently the easiest way t get here was t first past through Kostel and then follow the river for some 30km befre the smewhat frightening mnument f Peter Klepec n the left let’s yu knw that yu’ve finally arrived. However, in May 2012 a new road opened that goes directly over the mountains to Kočevje Reka, Ribnica and on to Ljubljana, saving drivers at least 30 minutes on the trip. With sme tw dzen switchbacks and a change f over 700m in elevation in just a few kilometres, the road prvides spectacular sweeping views f the valley belw and several prime lcatins fr imprmptu picnics.
Accommodation along the Kolpa River Htels
Turist Farms & Guesthuses
Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 305 81 23/+386 (0)40 327 49, fax +386 (0)7 363 52 81, gostinstvo-turizem@ gtm-metlika.si, gtm-metlika.si, www.hotel-belakrajina.si.Q 26 rooms. Hotel Kovač Sela 5, Osilnica, tel. +386 (0)1 8941 508/+386 (0)41 652 048,
[email protected], www.kovac-kolpa.com. Hotel Lahinja Črnomelj Kolodvorska 60, tel. +386 (0)7 307 03 30/+386 (0)51 809 426, hotel.lahinja@siol. net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-lahinja-crnomelj. Hotel Pri Belokranjcu Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 77, Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 30 28 444/+386 (0)41 921 694,
[email protected], www.pribelokran jcu-vp.si. Q 11 rooms. Hotel Smuk Semič Štefanov Trg 1, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 30 677 14, hotel.smuk.semic@gmail. com, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-smuk-semic. Q 8 rooms.
959/+306 (0)41 628 043, darinka.mravljak@siol. net. Domačija Raztresen Rim 16, Adlešiči, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 516/+386 (0)41 736 587,
[email protected], www.rim.si. Gostilna Pezdirc Metliška 11, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 356 81 21,
[email protected], www.gostilnapezdirc. si. Gostišče Kapušin Krasinec 55, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 369 91 50,
[email protected],
[email protected], ww w. gostilna-kapusin.si. Gostišče Tri Zvezde Pri Unionu 32, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 30 36, fax +386 (0)1 893 16 68, info@ trizvezde.si, www.trizvezde.si. Gostišče Veronika Ljubljanska 35, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 89 53 017. Gostišče Veselič Podzemelj 17, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 363 72 33/+386 (0)31 391 517, gostisce.
[email protected]. Gostišče Župančič Hram Dragatuš 22, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 305 73 47. Kmetija Padovac Selo 3, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 338645,
[email protected],
[email protected],www.kmetijapadovac.si. Kmetija Pri Papeževih Banja Loka 19, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 792 816. Lukčeva Domačija Vrh 1, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 285 723,
[email protected], ww w.lukceva-domacija. w.lukceva-domacija. si. Kmetija z Nastavitvijo ob Izviru Krupa Krupa 9, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 306 80 12, daniela.cer janec@volj a.net, ww w.turistic na-kmetij a-cerjan ec. si. Penzion Tušek Rudnik 18, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 22 30/+386 (0)40 396 400. Turistična kmetija Majerle Dol 7, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77,
[email protected], www.turizem-majerle.net. Turistična Kmetija Žagar Damelj 11, Vinica, tel. +386 (0)7 306 44 41,
[email protected], www.tkzagar.si.
Hotel Bela Krajina Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 32,
Apartments
Apartmaji Bilpa Spodnja Bilpa 6, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77,
[email protected], www.apartmaji-bilpa.si. Q 5 apartments. Apartmaji Malerič Podlog 3c, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 30 57 120/+386 (0)40 300 676, maleric@ turizemmaleric.si, ww w.turizemmaleric.si. w.turizemmaleric.si. Q 6 apartments. Apartmaji Šuster Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 359 073/+386 (0)7 305 51 53, www.apartmajisuster.si. Q 6 apartments.
Camping
Kstel’s magnificent castle is the secnd largest castle cmplex in all f Slvenia, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
27
Kamp Muhvič Dol 9, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 75,
[email protected]. Kamp Podzemelj Podzemelj, tel. +386 (0)7 30 69 572,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.kamppodzemelj.si. RC Kamp Primostek Primostek 50, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 305 85 28/+386 (0) 31 652 851, info@ primostek.si, www.kampprimostek.si. Kamp Žaga Gorenja Žaga 1a, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)1 89 42 291. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Domačija Lobič Grgelj 5, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 770
2012/13
29
28
Kolpa Kolp a RiveR Ri veR thugh, and the main built-up area here (if yu can call it that) is the settlement f Fara and several ther small hamlets further dwn the rad leading t the brder crssing with Cratia. The incredibly rugged karst landscape is perfect fr hikers and cyclists lking fr a bit f a challenge and a lt f beau tiful scenery. There are a few turist farms t stp at fr a bite, and lts f natural attractins, such as waterfalls and caves. If yu stay here n a cld night, dn’t frget t frtify frtify yur wn spirit with the lcally prduced spirit called Kstelska Rakija, while in the summertime the biggest day on the calendar is 15 August, when the traditradi tinal Tamburanje va Kstele ethnlgical festival is held.
The Legend of Peter Klepec The stry f Peter Klepec is ne f the mst widely knwn flktales in Slvenia. Likely riginating sometime in the 16th or 17th century, it was passed dwn rally frm generatin t generatin until finally taking written frm many years late r. Peter Klepec was a kind, hard-wrking sepherd by frm a very pr family in the village f osi lnica, wh struggled t make ends meet n a farm where hardly any crps wuld grw. Peter was nt the strngest by arund, and as adlescent males tend to do (apparently even 500 years ago) Peter was the victim f sme rather unpleasant bullying at the hands f the ther yun g shepherds - being frced t d their wrk, serving as the butt f their jkes and even taking a beating frm time t time. one ht summer day while Peter was ff trying t find water fr his trmentrs, his flck disappeared. While he was searching fr the wayward sheep he came acrss a beautiful yung girl sleeping in a meadw. Being the kindly by he was, Peter tk the time frm his despera te search t arrange sme branches t prvide shade fr this lvely maiden during her afternn siesta. This humble act turned ut t be a decisive ne, because when the girl awke Peter fund ut that she was nt a girl after all, but ne f the mysterius muntain fairies wh ppulate the frests here. T shw her gratitude, she tld Peter that she wuld grant him ne wish, t which the by (making the classic mistake f nt wishing fr mre wishes!) asked simply t be strng. Despite being sceptical at first, Peter quickly discvered that he culd uprt giant trees and hist enrmu s bulders ver his head. And the rest, as they say is histry. After lcating his lst flck, Peter set abut wrapping up sme ther lse ends. First he subtly made it knwn t the ther shepherds that they’d be ding their wn wrk frm then n. Next he remved all the rcks frm his mther’s garden, s plentiful crps culd grw. And finally, in smeversins f the stry at least, he defeated all f the invading Turkish armies and saved the entire regin frm ottman rule, which surely played n small part in helping t cement his legac y as a flk her in bth Slvenia and neighburing Cratia. In the past century r s the stry has been depicted in varius different artistic mediums, including cuntless bks. The mst famus versin is likely France Bevk’s work from 1958, which includes beautiful illustrations by the nted Slvene painter Tne Kralj.
Kolpa RiveR What t See in Kstel
osilnica
Kostel Castle Kstel’s mighty castle is inarguably ne
With a ppulatin f just ver tw millin, Slvenia has managed t make lcal administratin a true art frm, so far dividing itself into an astounding 211 separate municipalities as of 2011. But even in a country so keen n creating ever smaller administrative units, nly ne can lay claim t the title f being the smallest - and with a ttal population of only 332 inhabitants, Osilnica is that one (by quite a large margin even). Hwever, as the saying ges, gd things d indeed cme in small packages. Despite its size, osilnica is ntable fr tw primary reasns: It is the land f Peter Klepec, ne f Slvenia’s mst belved flk heres, and it is the place where the Čabranka and Kupa rivers converge to form the Kolpa. Just a cuple hundred metres frm the cnfluence is the Kovač Hotel and Sport Centre, the modern family-run establishment that is the primary turist destinatin in the area. While the unspilt nature f the surrunding area and timeless images f rural life are the main bject f phtgraphers lenses, there are als n less than seven aged churches and cuntless chapels in the municipality,
f the mst magnificent and recgnisable in all f Slvenia, which is n small feat in a cuntry that is nt exactly lacking in frtified residences. Nt nly is Kstel the secnd largest castle cmplex in Slvenia (after Celje’s Stari Grad), but it’s image als adrns the label f a ppular Slvene brand of bottled water that is produced nearby. Built in the 13th century, the castle lng-served as an imprtant defensive utpst against frequent Turkish incursins, and dutifully withstd all but ne f their attempts t capture it ver a perid f centuries. Nwadays the castle itself and its immediate grunds are sadly clsed t the public, with the blame fr this falling squarely n the shulders f the French, wh destryed it in 1809 as punishment for a local rebellion. After a wait of nearly two centuries renovations works finally began in 1999, but this majr prject is still nging and the castle’s interir is currently clsed fr sightseeing. Hwever, it’s well wrth the shrt drive frm the main rad t take a clser lk and experience the mightiness f the castl e cmplex fr yurself. There’s a large parking area n the left just be fre yu reach the village Kstel, frm where it’s a shrt walk t the best vantage pint n the path leading up t the castle gates. A large inf bard has a detailed histry f the castle, church and village in English.
Svet Kolpe www.svet-kolpe.si. It is believed by sme
that there is a strng bi-energy field with a spine f seven chakras running acrss Eurpe, frm rts in the Greek island f Crete t the crwn in Iceland. The large central Eurpe chakra passes directly thrugh the Klpa regin in Slvenia and represents the slar plexus, which acts as a sr t f inner sun prviding life frces t the rest f Eurpe. In the area f the Klpa, this perhaps difficult t imagine and impssible t see cncept has been put int cncrete frm thrugh the Svet Klpe prject, which has b een rganised by the municipality f Kstel and thers in the area. T make the energy more palpable, a series of 40 white stone monoliths with special symbls carved int them have been arranged at various points throughout the Kolpa and Čabranka river valleys. This practice is referred t as lithpuncture, as in a manner similar t acupuncture it helps t pen the energy present in the land. Even thse wh are sceptical f such ‘new age’ beliefs may want t take the time t stp and see i f they feel any different while while near the stnes - at wrst they will get t enjy a beautiful view. English language in frmatin bards and maps are psted at many f the sites, and brchures can be fund at many turist ffices.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
30
Htels
Turist Farms & Guesthuses
Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 305 81 23/+386 (0)40 327 49, fax +386 (0)7 363 52 81, gostinstvo-turizem@ gtm-metlika.si, gtm-metlika.si, www.hotel-belakrajina.si.Q 26 rooms. Hotel Kovač Sela 5, Osilnica, tel. +386 (0)1 8941 508/+386 (0)41 652 048,
[email protected], www.kovac-kolpa.com. Hotel Lahinja Črnomelj Kolodvorska 60, tel. +386 (0)7 307 03 30/+386 (0)51 809 426, hotel.lahinja@siol. net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-lahinja-crnomelj. Hotel Pri Belokranjcu Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 77, Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 30 28 444/+386 (0)41 921 694,
[email protected], www.pribelokran jcu-vp.si. Q 11 rooms. Hotel Smuk Semič Štefanov Trg 1, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 30 677 14, hotel.smuk.semic@gmail. com, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-smuk-semic. Q 8 rooms.
959/+306 (0)41 628 043, darinka.mravljak@siol. net. Domačija Raztresen Rim 16, Adlešiči, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 516/+386 (0)41 736 587,
[email protected], www.rim.si. Gostilna Pezdirc Metliška 11, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 356 81 21,
[email protected], www.gostilnapezdirc. si. Gostišče Kapušin Krasinec 55, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 369 91 50,
[email protected],
[email protected], ww w. gostilna-kapusin.si. Gostišče Tri Zvezde Pri Unionu 32, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 30 36, fax +386 (0)1 893 16 68, info@ trizvezde.si, www.trizvezde.si. Gostišče Veronika Ljubljanska 35, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 89 53 017. Gostišče Veselič Podzemelj 17, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 363 72 33/+386 (0)31 391 517, gostisce.
[email protected]. Gostišče Župančič Hram Dragatuš 22, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 305 73 47. Kmetija Padovac Selo 3, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 338645,
[email protected],
[email protected],www.kmetijapadovac.si. Kmetija Pri Papeževih Banja Loka 19, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 792 816. Lukčeva Domačija Vrh 1, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 285 723,
[email protected], ww w.lukceva-domacija. w.lukceva-domacija. si. Kmetija z Nastavitvijo ob Izviru Krupa Krupa 9, Semič, tel. +386 (0)7 306 80 12, daniela.cer janec@volj a.net, ww w.turistic na-kmetij a-cerjan ec. si. Penzion Tušek Rudnik 18, Kočevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 22 30/+386 (0)40 396 400. Turistična kmetija Majerle Dol 7, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77,
[email protected], www.turizem-majerle.net. Turistična Kmetija Žagar Damelj 11, Vinica, tel. +386 (0)7 306 44 41,
[email protected], www.tkzagar.si.
Hotel Bela Krajina Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 32,
Apartments
Apartmaji Bilpa Spodnja Bilpa 6, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77,
[email protected], www.apartmaji-bilpa.si. Q 5 apartments. Apartmaji Malerič Podlog 3c, Dragatuš, tel. +386 (0)7 30 57 120/+386 (0)40 300 676, maleric@ turizemmaleric.si, ww w.turizemmaleric.si. w.turizemmaleric.si. Q 6 apartments. Apartmaji Šuster Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 359 073/+386 (0)7 305 51 53, www.apartmajisuster.si. Q 6 apartments. Kamp Muhvič Dol 9, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 75,
[email protected]. Kamp Podzemelj Podzemelj, tel. +386 (0)7 30 69 572,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.kamppodzemelj.si. RC Kamp Primostek Primostek 50, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 305 85 28/+386 (0) 31 652 851, info@ primostek.si, www.kampprimostek.si. Kamp Žaga Gorenja Žaga 1a, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)1 89 42 291.
2012/13
SolčavSko Region Where t Sleep & Eat
Tourist Information
Lgarska Dlina
Tourist Information Centre Solčava 29, tel.
Dom Planincev Logarska Dolina 15a, tel. +386 (0)3
584 70 06/+386 (0)70 847 639, domplanincev@ gmail.com, ww w.domplanincev.si. w.domplanincev.si. This venerable alpine muntain hut ffers basic accmmdatin fr hikers, budget travellers and thers wh dn’t mind rughing it a bit. There’s a total of 32 beds, half of which are in two large drms n the secnd flr, while the rest are in smaller rms n the first flr. All rms have washbasins with ht and cld water, and there are shared shwers and tilettes. There is als a restaurant and bar n the grund flr where hikers can fill up n tasty staples like Lgar gulash, mushrm sup, buckwheat and stuffed cheese dumplings dumplings after a lng day n th e muntain. Q open frm 20 April to 31 October, and by prior arran gement for groups in the winter. 7 rooms (beds €15/person, €19 with breakfast). 6BKW
Logarska Dolina (or the Logar Valley) is one the most beauti ful, and remote, places in all of Slovenia, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
EDEN Slovenia
Domačija Lobič Grgelj 5, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 770
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
SolčavSko Region
While the name Solčava (or Solčavsko or even Logarska Dlina) is nt widely knwn utside f Slvenia, the regin is truly ne f the mst incredible places in the cuntry, which f curse is the reasn why it was selected as an EDEN destination in 2009. In fact, if we weren’t contractu ally prhibited frm playing favurites, it wuld be tempting for us to declare the Solčavsko region fi rst among equals when it cmes t turist destinatins in Slvenia. Gegraphically islated by the Kamnik-Savinjska Alps in the far nrth f the cuntry, the area nly gt its first rad to Ljubno and the rest of the Savinja Valley in 1894. This isolation has led Solčavsko to develop at its own pace, maintain its wn distinct cultural identity and extensively preserve and prtect its natural heritage. Frtunately fr thse wishing t visit, nwadays it is a relatively shrt drive (ie less than 1.5hrs) from Ljubljana, Maribor and Celje - the three largest cities in Slvenia. Cmprised f three rughly parallel valleys - Rbanv Kt, Lgarska Dlina and Matkv Kt - which are cnnect by a small river valley t the nrth that eventually becmes the Savinja river, the main town of Solčava gives the region its name. Some 517 or so inhabitants are dispersed over and area of 103km 2, and everyne literally knws everyne here, but dn’t wrry abut being an utsider, the clse sense f cmmunity is ne f the things that makes the place s friendly and welcming fr turists. It’s virtually impssible t get lst n even the smallest unsealed muntain rad, because the first persn yu meet will knw exactly where yu’re ging (and will quite pssibly be a relative f the wner!). of the three valleys, the wide picture-per fect Lgarska Dlina is the mst kn wn (s much s that even Slvenes cllquially refer t the whle regi n by that name), while frest-cvered Matkv Matkv Kt is the narrwest and least develped, and Rbanv Kt is smething like the balan ced middle child f the family. T the nrth separating Slvenia frm Austria is Munt olševa, alng which runs the s-
including the 17th century Church St Giles in Ribjek, which is the ldest preserved church in the entire regin f the Kočevje forest. Squeezed into an area of some 36km 2 between the rcky Brvška Gra muntain range n ne side and the Klpa river (as well as the Schengen brder with Cratia) n the ther, the municipality includes varius tiny settlements alng the river leading t osilnica twn frm the suth, as well as several mre hamlets and farming estates in the hills t the nrth, making it quite literally ne f the mst islated crners f Slvenia. Until recently the easiest way t get here was t first past through Kostel and then follow the river for some 30km befre the smewhat frightening mnument f Peter Klepec n the left let’s yu knw that yu’ve finally arrived. However, in May 2012 a new road opened that goes directly over the mountains to Kočevje Reka, Ribnica and on to Ljubljana, saving drivers at least 30 minutes on the trip. With sme tw dzen switchbacks and a change f over 700m in elevation in just a few kilometres, the road prvides spectacular sweeping views f the valley belw and several prime lcatins fr imprmptu picnics.
Accommodation along the Kolpa River
Camping
Kstel’s magnificent castle is the secnd largest castle cmplex in all f Slvenia, pht by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB
called Panramic Rad, where the best views in th e entire region are found. However, in Solčavsko there are amazing sights arund every crner, frm breathtakingly subli me landscapes t cuntless simple wnders tha t never cease t amaze visitrs such as urselves: gallping alpine hrses, friendly pt-bellied pigs, tiny weather-wrn chapels, centuries-ld farmhuses, feisty rsters, fields explding with flwers f every clur and s n seemingly infinitely!
Hotel Plesnik Logarska Dolina 10, tel. +386 (0)3 839 23 00, fax +386 (0)3 839 23 12,
[email protected], www. plesnik.si. The crème de la crème f accmmdatin in Solčavsko, the four-star Plesnik seems almost out of place in the rustic na tural setting, as it ffers ffers luxurius amenities, exquisite dining and prfessinal service that is rarely fund in the cuntryside. Highlights fr us include the breathtaking views frm the suth-facing balcnies, th e splendid htel terrace, and f curse the heated grund-level pl and sauna facilities in the basement with a glass wall thrugh which yu can view the valley while yu swim. These are free t use fr guests, and varius massages and ther treatments are available fr an extra charge. The htel is a ppular destinatin fr business retreats and meetin gs, and multi-day packages fr cuples and families are als n ffer. Additinal accmmdatin is ffered in the adjacent Villa Palenk, which has rms f similar standards (and all imprtant access t the pl) fr slightly lwer prices. Q 30 rooms (singles €65-89, d oubles €130), in Villa Pal enk 10 rooms (singles €49-72, doubles €98). PTHA6ILBKDCW Kmečka Hiša Ojstrica Logarska Dolina 13a, tel.
Arriving Coming to the Solčavsko region with your own car is really the best ptin. While it is pssible t arrive by way f public transprt - this is limited t three buses per weekday (there are nne at the weekends) frm Celje, which take nearly two hours and cost €6.90 each way - if you’re keen n explring all that the area has t ffer, having yur wn vehicle is a must as the distances between the three valleys are quite far (nearly 10km from Robanov Kot to Matkv Kt) and the must-see Panramic Rad is almst 20km from start to finish. The drive from Ljubljana takes roughly 1.5 hours regard less f whether yu take the mst direct rute (which means fllwing the cuntry rads thrugh Kamnik, arund Velika Planina and then up ver the muntains thrugh the tiny settlement f Pdvlvljek befre descending to Luče just east of Solčava) or take the mo trway t the Šentrupert exit and then pass by Mzirje, g through Ljubno and Luče. The first option is our preferred chice as the scenery is amazing the entire drive, althugh large stretches f the rad are nt fr the faint f heart and it’s prbably best avided altgether during icy winters r heavy rain. All accmmdatin prvide ample parking space, and parking in Solčava is free of charge, however, there is a ne time fee f €7 fr bringing a car int the Lgar Valley (€5 for motorcycles, €8 for vans and €25 for buses). eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
29
+386 (0)3 838 90 51/+386 (0)31 56 52 29, plesnik.
[email protected],
[email protected], www.logarska-ojstrica.si. www.logarska-ojstrica.si.Lcated Lcated at the busiest intersectin in Lgarska Dlina, with ne h use n either side f the street and anther just up the hill, ojstrica is the centre f the actin wi th a restaurant pen t nn-guests and a bar at which yu’re almst guaranteed t find a lcal r tw chatting in frnt f beer. beer. The building is newly cnstructed with all the mdern amenities, but was mdelled n the traditinal alpine farmhuse style. one interesting detail is the riental-themed furnishings present thrughut - these are nt just kitsch, the family that runs the place spent sme time living in China befre returning to Solčavsko to open the guesthouse. Q 7 rm and 2 apartments (singles €36, doubles €58, apartments €72). TA6LBKW
+386 (0)3 839 07 10,
[email protected], www. solcavsko.info. Lcated in the basement f the Rinka Centre, Solčasko’s regional tourist information centre has pretty much every piece f infrmatin yu culd hpe t find abut Where t Sleep and eat, and what t see and d in the regin - with detai led material in English, Slvene and German. Just let the sta ff knw what yu’re interested in, and they will gladly help yu find what yu need, including making arrangements and bkings with lcal turist farms, guesthuses, travel agencies and tur guides fr yu. The premises als cntain a multipurpse rm (t the left f the huge wall map f the regin), where yu can view several films detailing different aspects f Solčavsko’s culture and history, and view temporary art exhibitins that change every mnth r tw. Hwever, the mst interesting attractin here is the permanent exhibitin, which ffers an eye-pening and cmprehensive trip thrugh the regin frm pre-histry t the present day. Arranged in a large semi-circle, the very well-presented pathway is packed with frm flr t ceiling with phtgraphs, ethnlgical items and an extensive presentatin f the indigenu s flra and fauna frm the surrunding area. Mst exhibi ts are presented with English translatins, but it well-wrth having a guide cme with yu t give further cntext and mre in-depth infrmatin abut what yu’re lking at.
Logarska Dolina Tourist Information Point
Logarska Doli na 9, tel. +386 (0)3 (0)3 838 90 04, info@ logarska.si, www.logarska-dolina.si. www.logarska-dolina.si. This small wden hut ppsite Htel Plesnik is pen during the summer and has much the same inf, brchures and helpful advice as the main turist infrmatin centre in Solčava - although it’s primary focus is of course Lgarska Dlina.
cmmn area n the grund flr is abut as csy as they cme when the fireplace is crackling n cld evenings - and we’ve seen this place cvered in snw as late as May befre, s cld evenings are a cnveniently cmmn ccurrence here. Q 8 rooms with 23 beds (€20-22/person). 6IL
Planšarija Logarski Kot Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386 (0)5 995 86 92/+386 (0)41 210 017, logarski.kot@ gmail.com, www.logarski-kot.si. Frmerly an alpine dairy cttage, this rustic guesthuse is tucked away in a small clearing surrunded by thick frests at the upper end of Logar Valley. Built in the 1930s, the entirely wooden structure is ne f the best preserved f its kind in the area, giving it a rmantic charm that mre mdernly equipped accmmdatins simply can’t match, and the traditinal Solčavsko cuisine prepared by the lady of the house is also regarded as sme f the best arund. The small dining and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Help feed the hrses at Lenar Turist Farm, pht by Avgust Lenar 2012/13
31
30
SolčavSko Region
SolčavSko Region Where t Sleep & Eat
Tourist Information
Lgarska Dlina
Tourist Information Centre Solčava 29, tel.
Dom Planincev Logarska Dolina 15a, tel. +386 (0)3
584 70 06/+386 (0)70 847 639, domplanincev@ gmail.com, ww w.domplanincev.si. w.domplanincev.si. This venerable alpine muntain hut ffers basic accmmdatin fr hikers, budget travellers and thers wh dn’t mind rughing it a bit. There’s a total of 32 beds, half of which are in two large drms n the secnd flr, while the rest are in smaller rms n the first flr. All rms have washbasins with ht and cld water, and there are shared shwers and tilettes. There is als a restaurant and bar n the grund flr where hikers can fill up n tasty staples like Lgar gulash, mushrm sup, buckwheat and stuffed cheese dumplings dumplings after a lng day n th e muntain. Q open frm 20 April to 31 October, and by prior arran gement for groups in the winter. 7 rooms (beds €15/person, €19 with breakfast). 6BKW
Logarska Dolina (or the Logar Valley) is one the most beauti ful, and remote, places in all of Slovenia, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik While the name Solčava (or Solčavsko or even Logarska Dlina) is nt widely knwn utside f Slvenia, the regin is truly ne f the mst incredible places in the cuntry, which f curse is the reasn why it was selected as an EDEN destination in 2009. In fact, if we weren’t contractu ally prhibited frm playing favurites, it wuld be tempting for us to declare the Solčavsko region fi rst among equals when it cmes t turist destinatins in Slvenia. Gegraphically islated by the Kamnik-Savinjska Alps in the far nrth f the cuntry, the area nly gt its first rad to Ljubno and the rest of the Savinja Valley in 1894. This isolation has led Solčavsko to develop at its own pace, maintain its wn distinct cultural identity and extensively preserve and prtect its natural heritage. Frtunately fr thse wishing t visit, nwadays it is a relatively shrt drive (ie less than 1.5hrs) from Ljubljana, Maribor and Celje - the three largest cities in Slvenia. Cmprised f three rughly parallel valleys - Rbanv Kt, Lgarska Dlina and Matkv Kt - which are cnnect by a small river valley t the nrth that eventually becmes the Savinja river, the main town of Solčava gives the region its name. Some 517 or so inhabitants are dispersed over and area of 103km 2, and everyne literally knws everyne here, but dn’t wrry abut being an utsider, the clse sense f cmmunity is ne f the things that makes the place s friendly and welcming fr turists. It’s virtually impssible t get lst n even the smallest unsealed muntain rad, because the first persn yu meet will knw exactly where yu’re ging (and will quite pssibly be a relative f the wner!). of the three valleys, the wide picture-per fect Lgarska Dlina is the mst kn wn (s much s that even Slvenes cllquially refer t the whle regi n by that name), while frest-cvered Matkv Matkv Kt is the narrwest and least develped, and Rbanv Kt is smething like the balan ced middle child f the family. T the nrth separating Slvenia frm Austria is Munt olševa, alng which runs the s-
called Panramic Rad, where the best views in th e entire region are found. However, in Solčavsko there are amazing sights arund every crner, frm breathtakingly subli me landscapes t cuntless simple wnders tha t never cease t amaze visitrs such as urselves: gallping alpine hrses, friendly pt-bellied pigs, tiny weather-wrn chapels, centuries-ld farmhuses, feisty rsters, fields explding with flwers f every clur and s n seemingly infinitely!
32
Kmečka Hiša Ojstrica Logarska Dolina 13a, tel.
Arriving Coming to the Solčavsko region with your own car is really the best ptin. While it is pssible t arrive by way f public transprt - this is limited t three buses per weekday (there are nne at the weekends) frm Celje, which take nearly two hours and cost €6.90 each way - if you’re keen n explring all that the area has t ffer, having yur wn vehicle is a must as the distances between the three valleys are quite far (nearly 10km from Robanov Kot to Matkv Kt) and the must-see Panramic Rad is almst 20km from start to finish. The drive from Ljubljana takes roughly 1.5 hours regard less f whether yu take the mst direct rute (which means fllwing the cuntry rads thrugh Kamnik, arund Velika Planina and then up ver the muntains thrugh the tiny settlement f Pdvlvljek befre descending to Luče just east of Solčava) or take the mo trway t the Šentrupert exit and then pass by Mzirje, g through Ljubno and Luče. The first option is our preferred chice as the scenery is amazing the entire drive, althugh large stretches f the rad are nt fr the faint f heart and it’s prbably best avided altgether during icy winters r heavy rain. All accmmdatin prvide ample parking space, and parking in Solčava is free of charge, however, there is a ne time fee f €7 fr bringing a car int the Lgar Valley (€5 for motorcycles, €8 for vans and €25 for buses). eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
Hotel Plesnik Logarska Dolina 10, tel. +386 (0)3 839 23 00, fax +386 (0)3 839 23 12,
[email protected], www. plesnik.si. The crème de la crème f accmmdatin in Solčavsko, the four-star Plesnik seems almost out of place in the rustic na tural setting, as it ffers ffers luxurius amenities, exquisite dining and prfessinal service that is rarely fund in the cuntryside. Highlights fr us include the breathtaking views frm the suth-facing balcnies, th e splendid htel terrace, and f curse the heated grund-level pl and sauna facilities in the basement with a glass wall thrugh which yu can view the valley while yu swim. These are free t use fr guests, and varius massages and ther treatments are available fr an extra charge. The htel is a ppular destinatin fr business retreats and meetin gs, and multi-day packages fr cuples and families are als n ffer. Additinal accmmdatin is ffered in the adjacent Villa Palenk, which has rms f similar standards (and all imprtant access t the pl) fr slightly lwer prices. Q 30 rooms (singles €65-89, d oubles €130), in Villa Pal enk 10 rooms (singles €49-72, doubles €98). PTHA6ILBKDCW +386 (0)3 838 90 51/+386 (0)31 56 52 29, plesnik.
[email protected],
[email protected], www.logarska-ojstrica.si. www.logarska-ojstrica.si.Lcated Lcated at the busiest intersectin in Lgarska Dlina, with ne h use n either side f the street and anther just up the hill, ojstrica is the centre f the actin wi th a restaurant pen t nn-guests and a bar at which yu’re almst guaranteed t find a lcal r tw chatting in frnt f beer. beer. The building is newly cnstructed with all the mdern amenities, but was mdelled n the traditinal alpine farmhuse style. one interesting detail is the riental-themed furnishings present thrughut - these are nt just kitsch, the family that runs the place spent sme time living in China befre returning to Solčavsko to open the guesthouse. Q 7 rm and 2 apartments (singles €36, doubles €58, apartments €72). TA6LBKW
Apartmaji Mala Hiša Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)3 584 61 80, inf
[email protected], www.malahisa. com. Q 2 apartments (€50-75). Apartma Prepadnik Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)31 369 529/+386 (0)31 443 282. Q 1 Apart ment (€50-70). Apartma Tisa Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 64/+386 (0)41 889 021, solcava.tisa@gmail. com. Q 1 apartment (€50). Penzion Na Razpotju Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3 839 16 50,
[email protected], www. logarska-narazpotju.si. Q 10 rooms (singles €35, doubles €70). Planinski Dom Majerhold Logarska Dolina, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 24/+386 (0)41 336 864,
[email protected], www.majerhold.si. Q 7 rooms and 2 apartments (rooms €25/person, apartments €50). Prenočišča Valentin Valentinaa Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 52/+386 (0)31 870 893, valentinaspruk67@ gmail.com, www.valentina-solcavsko.si.Q 4 rooms (singles €24, doubles, triples and quads €20/person). Sobe Elizabeta Slapnik Solčava, tel. +386 (0)51 256 804/+386 (0)41 690 011,
[email protected], www.turist-slapnik.eu. Q 8 beds (€20/person). Sobe Štiftar Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 93/+386 (0)41 522 228,
[email protected]. Q 8 beds (€18/person). Turistična Kmetija Ambrož-Gregorc Solčava 53, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 97/+386 (0)41 705 949,
[email protected], www.ambroz-gregorc. com. Q 9 rooms (singles €24, doubles, triples & quads €20/person). Breakfast €5. Turistična Kmetija Bevšek-Ošep Robanov Kot 29, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 36,
[email protected], www.bevsek-osep.si. Q 6 rooms (€24/person). Turistična Kmetija Juvanija Logarska Dolina 8, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 80,
[email protected], www. juvanija.com. Q 4 rooms (singles €24, doubles €48). Turistična Kmetija Ložekar Logarska Dolina 27, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 60,
[email protected]. Q 23 beds. open nly during winter. Turistična Kmetija Majdač Podolševa, tel. +386 (0)3 839 49 40/+386 (0)31 715 293, anica.
[email protected]. Q 7 rooms and 1 apartment (€26-28/person, apartment €50-60). Turistična Kmetija Perk Logarska Dolina 23, tel. +386 (0)3 5 847 120/+386 (0)41 282 485,
[email protected], www.perk.si. Q 12 beds (€24/person). Turistična Kmetija Pečovnik-Ošep Robanov Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 56. Q 6 rooms and 4 apartments (singles €22-28, doubles €44-56, apartments €44-108). Turistična Kmetija Plesnik Logarska Dolina 13, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 09/+386 (0)41 329 383,
[email protected], www.logarska-tkplesnik.si. Q 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €50). Turistična Kmetija Rogar Podolševa 24, tel. +386 (0)3 839 50 30/+386 (0)31 204 703, www. nad1000m.si. Q 5 rooms (singles €24-25, doubles €48-50). Turistična Kmetija Strevc-Selišnik Podolševa, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 20/+386 (0)40 477 909,
[email protected]. Q 4 apartments (€59). EDEN Slovenia
+386 (0)3 839 07 10,
[email protected], www. solcavsko.info. Lcated in the basement f the Rinka Centre, Solčasko’s regional tourist information centre has pretty much every piece f infrmatin yu culd hpe t find abut Where t Sleep and eat, and what t see and d in the regin - with detai led material in English, Slvene and German. Just let the sta ff knw what yu’re interested in, and they will gladly help yu find what yu need, including making arrangements and bkings with lcal turist farms, guesthuses, travel agencies and tur guides fr yu. The premises als cntain a multipurpse rm (t the left f the huge wall map f the regin), where yu can view several films detailing different aspects f Solčavsko’s culture and history, and view temporary art exhibitins that change every mnth r tw. Hwever, the mst interesting attractin here is the permanent exhibitin, which ffers an eye-pening and cmprehensive trip thrugh the regin frm pre-histry t the present day. Arranged in a large semi-circle, the very well-presented pathway is packed with frm flr t ceiling with phtgraphs, ethnlgical items and an extensive presentatin f the indigenu s flra and fauna frm the surrunding area. Mst exhibi ts are presented with English translatins, but it well-wrth having a guide cme with yu t give further cntext and mre in-depth infrmatin abut what yu’re lking at.
Logarska Dolina Tourist Information Point
Logarska Doli na 9, tel. +386 (0)3 (0)3 838 90 04, info@ logarska.si, www.logarska-dolina.si. www.logarska-dolina.si. This small wden hut ppsite Htel Plesnik is pen during the summer and has much the same inf, brchures and helpful advice as the main turist infrmatin centre in Solčava - although it’s primary focus is of course Lgarska Dlina.
cmmn area n the grund flr is abut as csy as they cme when the fireplace is crackling n cld evenings - and we’ve seen this place cvered in snw as late as May befre, s cld evenings are a cnveniently cmmn ccurrence here. Q 8 rooms with 23 beds (€20-22/person). 6IL
Planšarija Logarski Kot Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386 (0)5 995 86 92/+386 (0)41 210 017, logarski.kot@ gmail.com, www.logarski-kot.si. Frmerly an alpine dairy cttage, this rustic guesthuse is tucked away in a small clearing surrunded by thick frests at the upper end of Logar Valley. Built in the 1930s, the entirely wooden structure is ne f the best preserved f its kind in the area, giving it a rmantic charm that mre mdernly equipped accmmdatins simply can’t match, and the traditinal Solčavsko cuisine prepared by the lady of the house is also regarded as sme f the best arund. The small dining and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
SolčavSko Region Other Accommodation
Help feed the hrses at Lenar Turist Farm, pht by Avgust Lenar 2012/13
SolčavSko Region
Turistična Kmetija Lenar Logarska Dolina 11, tel.
Rbanv Kt may be just the thing yu’re lkin g fr. Well-knwn Well-knwn frits culinary culinary excellenc excellence, e, the farmhas a traditin traditin datingbackver ver 50 years and is a popular destination for locals, weekend hikers and freign turists alike. Dining n the back terrace surrunded by rlling green pastures, encraching dark frests and saring muntains is ne f the mst pleasant experiences t be had in Solčavsko (there’s even an old mill house), but be aware that the multi-curse set lunches are virtually impssible t finish. With a reputatin like this, it’s n surprise that the recently added accmmdatins are every bit a s splendid - the large rms are furnished in a traditinal alpine pine style, and there’s there’s even even a small jacuzzi and saunaat guests’ guests’ dispsal. dispsal.Q 10 rooms (singles €2935, larger rooms €26-29/person). TILKDW
+386 (0)3 838 90 06/+386 (0)41 851 829, tk.lenar@ siol.net, www.lenar.si. A favurite amngst freign turists and resident expats (including urselves), this place is almst t charming fr wrds. Perfectly placed at the edge f the meadws in the middle f the valley, it has sweeping views in all directins, including f the rchard in frnt f the huse where guests can enjy there eclgical hmemade breakfasts and cavrt with the tw beautiful alpine hrses that are ften raming abut. Accmmdatin is in either the lwer huse, which has large newly renvated rms and apartments, r the upper huse, which is slightly mre basic, but just as cmfrtable and ffers the best views frm its su th-facing terraces. Fr th se seeking t he mre ‚authentic’ farm experience, mats are als available in a renvated hay barn during the warmer mnths. Easily ne f the best values in the valley. Q 6 rooms and 3 apartments (singles €27-29, doubles €54-58, apartments €60-110, hay barn €12 per person). T6ILBXW
Matkv Kt Turistična Kmetija Gradišnik Logarska Dolina 18,
tel. +386 (0)41 526 699/+386 (0)41 704 599, info@ gradisnik.si, www.gradisnik.si. only a cuple kilmetres frm Lgarska Dlina, upn runding t he last crner befre reaching the still wild and largely undevelped Matkv Kt, yu’ll see signs directing yu t a small meadw at the bttm f the valley, which has been the ancestral hme f the Gradišnik family fr generatins. Rebuilt and expanded by t he renwned family patriarch Matija Gradišnik in the middle f the 19th century, the farmstead has been perfectly preserved to this day. The extra effort needed to reach Solčavsko’s mst distant valley is well wrth it, as yu’re guaranteed a warm welcme and a relaxing stay. The farm’s speciality (in additin t the usual friendly servic e, hmemade cuisine and csy accmmdatin) is archery. Thse interested in this mst fascinating sprt, can brrw a bw and arrws and get basic training. once yu’ve gt the hang f the basics, yu can try ut the 3-D archery track r hunting simulatin that’s been set up in the nearby frest. Q 2 rooms and 2 apartments (singles €25, doubles €50, apartments €60). Breakfast €5. Archery with instruction €10/person, hunting simulation €13-15/person. T6LW
Turistična Kmetija Matk Logarska Dolina 21, tel.
+386 (0)3 584 71 16/+386 (0)41 556 752, klemen@ matk.si, ww w.matk.si. w.matk.si. Situated high abve the valley that shares its name, the Matk family farm extends frm an altitude of 900m near th e bottom of the valley all the way up to more than 2200m at the summit of Mrzla Gora (or Cold Muntain). The rms here are f a typical mdern alpine style, and there’s a large play rm in the attic t keep the kids busy. Mst guests cme here t get away frm it all, and are usually keen n cycling r hiking n the muntain rads and trails that crisscrss the large eclgical farm, which includes fur different different types f au tchthnus Slvenian animal breeds (the Cika cow, Jezersko-Solčavsko sheep, Carniolan bee and Styrian hen). Guests are als mre than welcme t jin the family in their daily chres arund the farm, as in these parts in widely believed that a lit tle hard wrk and dirty hands will cure mst ailments f the mdern man. Everyne can find peace in the silence f the frests and muntains. Q 7 rooms (singles €38, doubles €56, triples €84). TLNB
Culinary specialities of Solčavsko
The award-winning views f Klemenšek Farm n the Panoramic Road, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
Panramic Rad Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Žibovt Logarska Dolina
24, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 18, kmetija.zibovt@gmail .com, www.kmetija-zibovt.si.In www.kmetija-zibovt.si. In a place spiled with breathtaking views like Solčavsko it’s difficult to say that one place offers the single best vanta ge pint, but if we were frced t d s, Žibovt would get our vote (no pun intended). Set at the edge f a grassy field wi th panramic views f the en tire KamnikSavinja Alps spilling ut in frnt f yu, its resemblance t the mst famus image frm the Sund f Music is hard t ignre. An eclgically certified farm with a selectin f hmemade treats such as dried fruits, muntain h ney, cured meats, hearty bread, sur ygurt and all kinds f cheeses ur persnal favurite is the wild garlic variety - gurmands will definitely want t make a stp here. Hwever, perhaps the mst unique aspect f the farm is the game rm in the basement. Like nne ther we’ve ever seen, it’s packed with large-scale wden games handmade by the family’s yungest sn, including chess, bwling and a labyrinth s difficult yu culd stay here a week and nt master it. Q 6 rooms (singles €26-35, doubles €52-70). €52-70). TLNBKW
Kmetija Klemenšek Logarska dolina 29, tel. +386 (0)3
838 90 24/+386 (0)41 593 715, inf o@na-klemencem. si, www.na-klemencem.si.Thanks www.na-klemencem.si. Thanks t its perch at the crest f small grassy clearing f a frested hill with a panramic backdrp f the mighty Kamink-Savinja Alps, the the nearly 600 year old Klemenšek farm is almost as literally pictureperfect as they cme - gracing the cver f cuntless Slvene and internatinal turism magazines. While they dn’t ffer accmmdatin, busla ds f turists turn up here t sample the award-winning cuisine, visit the huge ethnlgical museum in the ld barn r simply enjy the views. The premises can als be rented fr celebratins, team-building utings and ther events, and the farm had the distinctin f hsting the awards ceremny fr the Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2009. TLBK
As with all f Slvenia’s surprisingly diverse regins, sampling the lcal cuisine is ne f the highlights f any trip to Solčavsko. The central theme tying together the culinary specialities here is the fresh lcally grwn (r raised) ingredients tha t are used t prduce them - mst, if nt all, f the farms are rganic and/r eclgical and run fr generatins by the same families. The dish mst ften cited as a reginal delicacy is sirnek, which is alternatively translated as ‘aged Solčava cheese’ r the smewhat less-appetising ‘ripened cttage cheese’. The pungent taste may be a bit n the strng side fr mst peple (urselves included), but fr cheese lvers it’s a must-try. other, mre palatabl e, varieties f hmemade cheese are als plentiful and cmmnly flavured with sme kind f herbs r spices. The second-most typical food is zgornjesavinski želodec, r Upper-Savinja ‘stmach’, a succulent salami that is nt nly a gegraphically prtected prduct, but is als featured n an fficial Slvenian pstage stamp. Prduced frm the highest quality lcal pigs, i ts tas te is further enriched by being cured in the pristine alpine climate. A third speciality that ften makes its way nt menus is žlinkrofi. The close cousin of Idrjia’s more famous žlikrofi, Solčavsko’s version of the boiled dumpling tends to be slightly larger, is almst always filled with meat (r dried pears fr dessert) and serves as a side dish rather than a main curse. other staples f the reginal diet include lamb and deer meat, cuntless hmemade breads, hney frm alpine bees, and varius cmptes, with pears being the mst cmmnly used fruit. The best place t purchase many f these treats is frm the lcal farmers f curse, but the gift shp at the Rinka Centre has a fine selectin f certified lcal prducts t take hme with yu as well.
Rbanv Kt Turistična Kmetija Govc-Vršnik Robanov Kot 34, tel.
www.inyurpcket.cm eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
31
+386 (0)3 839 50 16, fax +386 (0)3 839 50 17, govc.
[email protected], www.govc-vrsnik.com.If www.govc-vrsnik.com. If the mre famus Lgarska Dlina is t hectic fr yu (relatively speaking f curse), then a stay in the equally beautiful but less develped eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
photo by Tomo Jeseničnik 2012/13
33
32
SolčavSko Region Other Accommodation Apartmaji Mala Hiša Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)3 584 61 80, inf
[email protected], www.malahisa. com. Q 2 apartments (€50-75). Apartma Prepadnik Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)31 369 529/+386 (0)31 443 282. Q 1 Apart ment (€50-70). Apartma Tisa Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 64/+386 (0)41 889 021, solcava.tisa@gmail. com. Q 1 apartment (€50). Penzion Na Razpotju Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3 839 16 50,
[email protected], www. logarska-narazpotju.si. Q 10 rooms (singles €35, doubles €70). Planinski Dom Majerhold Logarska Dolina, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 24/+386 (0)41 336 864,
[email protected], www.majerhold.si. Q 7 rooms and 2 apartments (rooms €25/person, apartments €50). Prenočišča Valentin Valentinaa Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 52/+386 (0)31 870 893, valentinaspruk67@ gmail.com, www.valentina-solcavsko.si.Q 4 rooms (singles €24, doubles, triples and quads €20/person). Sobe Elizabeta Slapnik Solčava, tel. +386 (0)51 256 804/+386 (0)41 690 011,
[email protected], www.turist-slapnik.eu. Q 8 beds (€20/person). Sobe Štiftar Solčava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 93/+386 (0)41 522 228,
[email protected]. Q 8 beds (€18/person). Turistična Kmetija Ambrož-Gregorc Solčava 53, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 97/+386 (0)41 705 949,
[email protected], www.ambroz-gregorc. com. Q 9 rooms (singles €24, doubles, triples & quads €20/person). Breakfast €5. Turistična Kmetija Bevšek-Ošep Robanov Kot 29, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 36,
[email protected], www.bevsek-osep.si. Q 6 rooms (€24/person). Turistična Kmetija Juvanija Logarska Dolina 8, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 80,
[email protected], www. juvanija.com. Q 4 rooms (singles €24, doubles €48). Turistična Kmetija Ložekar Logarska Dolina 27, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 60,
[email protected]. Q 23 beds. open nly during winter. Turistična Kmetija Majdač Podolševa, tel. +386 (0)3 839 49 40/+386 (0)31 715 293, anica.
[email protected]. Q 7 rooms and 1 apartment (€26-28/person, apartment €50-60). Turistična Kmetija Perk Logarska Dolina 23, tel. +386 (0)3 5 847 120/+386 (0)41 282 485,
[email protected], www.perk.si. Q 12 beds (€24/person). Turistična Kmetija Pečovnik-Ošep Robanov Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 56. Q 6 rooms and 4 apartments (singles €22-28, doubles €44-56, apartments €44-108). Turistična Kmetija Plesnik Logarska Dolina 13, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 09/+386 (0)41 329 383,
[email protected], www.logarska-tkplesnik.si. Q 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €50). Turistična Kmetija Rogar Podolševa 24, tel. +386 (0)3 839 50 30/+386 (0)31 204 703, www. nad1000m.si. Q 5 rooms (singles €24-25, doubles €48-50). Turistična Kmetija Strevc-Selišnik Podolševa, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 20/+386 (0)40 477 909,
[email protected]. Q 4 apartments (€59).
SolčavSko Region
Turistična Kmetija Lenar Logarska Dolina 11, tel.
Turistična Kmetija Gradišnik Logarska Dolina 18,
tel. +386 (0)41 526 699/+386 (0)41 704 599, info@ gradisnik.si, www.gradisnik.si. only a cuple kilmetres frm Lgarska Dlina, upn runding t he last crner befre reaching the still wild and largely undevelped Matkv Kt, yu’ll see signs directing yu t a small meadw at the bttm f the valley, which has been the ancestral hme f the Gradišnik family fr generatins. Rebuilt and expanded by t he renwned family patriarch Matija Gradišnik in the middle f the 19th century, the farmstead has been perfectly preserved to this day. The extra effort needed to reach Solčavsko’s mst distant valley is well wrth it, as yu’re guaranteed a warm welcme and a relaxing stay. The farm’s speciality (in additin t the usual friendly servic e, hmemade cuisine and csy accmmdatin) is archery. Thse interested in this mst fascinating sprt, can brrw a bw and arrws and get basic training. once yu’ve gt the hang f the basics, yu can try ut the 3-D archery track r hunting simulatin that’s been set up in the nearby frest. Q 2 rooms and 2 apartments (singles €25, doubles €50, apartments €60). Breakfast €5. Archery with instruction €10/person, hunting simulation €13-15/person. T6LW
Turistična Kmetija Matk Logarska Dolina 21, tel.
+386 (0)3 584 71 16/+386 (0)41 556 752, klemen@ matk.si, ww w.matk.si. w.matk.si. Situated high abve the valley that shares its name, the Matk family farm extends frm an altitude of 900m near th e bottom of the valley all the way up to more than 2200m at the summit of Mrzla Gora (or Cold Muntain). The rms here are f a typical mdern alpine style, and there’s a large play rm in the attic t keep the kids busy. Mst guests cme here t get away frm it all, and are usually keen n cycling r hiking n the muntain rads and trails that crisscrss the large eclgical farm, which includes fur different different types f au tchthnus Slvenian animal breeds (the Cika cow, Jezersko-Solčavsko sheep, Carniolan bee and Styrian hen). Guests are als mre than welcme t jin the family in their daily chres arund the farm, as in these parts in widely believed that a lit tle hard wrk and dirty hands will cure mst ailments f the mdern man. Everyne can find peace in the silence f the frests and muntains. Q 7 rooms (singles €38, doubles €56, triples €84). TLNB
Culinary specialities of Solčavsko
The award-winning views f Klemenšek Farm n the Panoramic Road, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
Panramic Rad Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Žibovt Logarska Dolina
24, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 18, kmetija.zibovt@gmail .com, www.kmetija-zibovt.si.In www.kmetija-zibovt.si. In a place spiled with breathtaking views like Solčavsko it’s difficult to say that one place offers the single best vanta ge pint, but if we were frced t d s, Žibovt would get our vote (no pun intended). Set at the edge f a grassy field wi th panramic views f the en tire KamnikSavinja Alps spilling ut in frnt f yu, its resemblance t the mst famus image frm the Sund f Music is hard t ignre. An eclgically certified farm with a selectin f hmemade treats such as dried fruits, muntain h ney, cured meats, hearty bread, sur ygurt and all kinds f cheeses ur persnal favurite is the wild garlic variety - gurmands will definitely want t make a stp here. Hwever, perhaps the mst unique aspect f the farm is the game rm in the basement. Like nne ther we’ve ever seen, it’s packed with large-scale wden games handmade by the family’s yungest sn, including chess, bwling and a labyrinth s difficult yu culd stay here a week and nt master it. Q 6 rooms (singles €26-35, doubles €52-70). €52-70). TLNBKW
Kmetija Klemenšek Logarska dolina 29, tel. +386 (0)3
838 90 24/+386 (0)41 593 715, inf o@na-klemencem. si, www.na-klemencem.si.Thanks www.na-klemencem.si. Thanks t its perch at the crest f small grassy clearing f a frested hill with a panramic backdrp f the mighty Kamink-Savinja Alps, the the nearly 600 year old Klemenšek farm is almost as literally pictureperfect as they cme - gracing the cver f cuntless Slvene and internatinal turism magazines. While they dn’t ffer accmmdatin, busla ds f turists turn up here t sample the award-winning cuisine, visit the huge ethnlgical museum in the ld barn r simply enjy the views. The premises can als be rented fr celebratins, team-building utings and ther events, and the farm had the distinctin f hsting the awards ceremny fr the Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2009. TLBK
Rbanv Kt
www.inyurpcket.cm eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
+386 (0)3 839 50 16, fax +386 (0)3 839 50 17, govc.
[email protected], www.govc-vrsnik.com.If www.govc-vrsnik.com. If the mre famus Lgarska Dlina is t hectic fr yu (relatively speaking f curse), then a stay in the equally beautiful but less develped eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
SolčavSko Region Potočka Zijalka Cave
Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Ramšak Podolševa 13,
Gostišče Firšt Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
EDEN Slovenia
2012/13
Pod Macesnovo Streho Robanov Kot 5, tel. +386 (0)3
Solčava
T6ILW
Resembling a gaping muth r mysterius dark eye at the base f the suth-facing rcky clif fs f Munt olševa, the Potočka Zijalka Cave is arguably the most important archelgical site in all f Slvenia. Althugh it had lng been knwn t lcals thanks t its auspicious appearance, the 115m long cave was only first excavated in 1928 by Dr Srečko Brodar. Over a seven-year perid Dr Brdar and his team discvered over 300 stone objects (80 of which were tools), 123 bne pints and a mind-bggling amunt f animal remains, including an estimated 1000 cave bears, as well as 39 other species of wolves, foxes, lynxes, deer, chamis, marmts and ther small mammals. The artefacts date frm the Upper Palaelithic perid between 40,000-30,000 years ago, and judging from what was fund it was first hypthesised that the cave served as a hunting utpst - and quite an advanced ne by Cr-Magnn standards, given the presence f what are thught t be sme f the earliest knwn arrwheads. Hwever, a mre recent thery psits that the site was actually a place where early animistic rituals were carried ut. This is based largely n tw f the mst intriguing items that were discvered: a rudimentary flute that is cn sidered t be ne f th e ldest musica l instruments ever discvered (it’s made frm the lwer jaw f a cave bear, with three hles b red int it) an d a rare bne needle, which was threaded thrugh the hllw f the bne rather than an eye as mdern needles are. The mst extensive public display f findings frm the cave can be fund at the reginal museum in Celje, althugh many f them were unfrtunately destryed (alng with much f the rest f the museum’s cllectin) during allied bmbardment in the waning mnths f WWII. The Firšt Museum in Solčava also has a fine exhibition detailing the histry f the cave and what was fund during the excavatins. The cave itself is pen fr thse interested in making the steep hike up the muntain frm the settlement f Pdlševa at the eastern end f the Panramic Rad althugh it’s nt strictly required, hiring a qualified and knowledgable guide through the tourist office in Solčava is definitely recmmended.
photo by Tomo Jeseničnik
SolčavSko Region
tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 50,
[email protected], www. tk-ramsak.com. Knwn thrughut the regin fr its highquality rganic prducts, the farm has been fficially certified as ecological since 1999. For overnight guests there are two duble rms in the main huse and a separate apartment cttage with tw bedrms that can sleep up t five peple, and lts f things fr the kids t make use f, including a playgrund and sprts equipment (table tennis, badmintn, etc). During the summer, guests can als make use f a cvered area with a large stne fireplace fr their wn picnics r BBQs. Alternatively, hme-cked lcal cuisine is never in shrt supply, and vegetarians vegetarians will be glad t here that a number f nn-meat dishes are amng the specialities f the kitchen. Q 2 rooms and 1 apartments (singles €30, doubles €50, apartment €65).
The entrance to Potočka Zijalka Cave on Mount Olševa, pht by Mark Slapnik
As with all f Slvenia’s surprisingly diverse regins, sampling the lcal cuisine is ne f the highlights f any trip to Solčavsko. The central theme tying together the culinary specialities here is the fresh lcally grwn (r raised) ingredients tha t are used t prduce them - mst, if nt all, f the farms are rganic and/r eclgical and run fr generatins by the same families. The dish mst ften cited as a reginal delicacy is sirnek, which is alternatively translated as ‘aged Solčava cheese’ r the smewhat less-appetising ‘ripened cttage cheese’. The pungent taste may be a bit n the strng side fr mst peple (urselves included), but fr cheese lvers it’s a must-try. other, mre palatabl e, varieties f hmemade cheese are als plentiful and cmmnly flavured with sme kind f herbs r spices. The second-most typical food is zgornjesavinski želodec, r Upper-Savinja ‘stmach’, a succulent salami that is nt nly a gegraphically prtected prduct, but is als featured n an fficial Slvenian pstage stamp. Prduced frm the highest quality lcal pigs, i ts tas te is further enriched by being cured in the pristine alpine climate. A third speciality that ften makes its way nt menus is žlinkrofi. The close cousin of Idrjia’s more famous žlikrofi, Solčavsko’s version of the boiled dumpling tends to be slightly larger, is almst always filled with meat (r dried pears fr dessert) and serves as a side dish rather than a main curse. other staples f the reginal diet include lamb and deer meat, cuntless hmemade breads, hney frm alpine bees, and varius cmptes, with pears being the mst cmmnly used fruit. The best place t purchase many f these treats is frm the lcal farmers f curse, but the gift shp at the Rinka Centre has a fine selectin f certified lcal prducts t take hme with yu as well.
Turistična Kmetija Govc-Vršnik Robanov Kot 34, tel.
EDEN Slovenia
34
Rbanv Kt may be just the thing yu’re lkin g fr. Well-knwn Well-knwn frits culinary culinary excellenc excellence, e, the farmhas a traditin traditin datingbackver ver 50 years and is a popular destination for locals, weekend hikers and freign turists alike. Dining n the back terrace surrunded by rlling green pastures, encraching dark frests and saring muntains is ne f the mst pleasant experiences t be had in Solčavsko (there’s even an old mill house), but be aware that the multi-curse set lunches are virtually impssible t finish. With a reputatin like this, it’s n surprise that the recently added accmmdatins are every bit a s splendid - the large rms are furnished in a traditinal alpine pine style, and there’s there’s even even a small jacuzzi and saunaat guests’ guests’ dispsal. dispsal.Q 10 rooms (singles €2935, larger rooms €26-29/person). TILKDW
+386 (0)3 838 90 06/+386 (0)41 851 829, tk.lenar@ siol.net, www.lenar.si. A favurite amngst freign turists and resident expats (including urselves), this place is almst t charming fr wrds. Perfectly placed at the edge f the meadws in the middle f the valley, it has sweeping views in all directins, including f the rchard in frnt f the huse where guests can enjy there eclgical hmemade breakfasts and cavrt with the tw beautiful alpine hrses that are ften raming abut. Accmmdatin is in either the lwer huse, which has large newly renvated rms and apartments, r the upper huse, which is slightly mre basic, but just as cmfrtable and ffers the best views frm its su th-facing terraces. Fr th se seeking t he mre ‚authentic’ farm experience, mats are als available in a renvated hay barn during the warmer mnths. Easily ne f the best values in the valley. Q 6 rooms and 3 apartments (singles €27-29, doubles €54-58, apartments €60-110, hay barn €12 per person). T6ILBXW
Matkv Kt
33
46 78,
[email protected], www.fir st-logarska.si.Just st-logarska.si.Just west of Solčava proper, Firšt is something of a one-stop-shop fr turists, with an in-huse museum, rganised hiking hiking trail, accmmdatin and the twn’s mst ppular restaurant. The latter specialises in fresh river trut, but als has an interesting selectin f game dishes (we can say withut res ervatin that they serve the best chamis gulash we’ve ever had!) and lcal cuisine. The six cmfrtable rms are cmpletely furnished in light wd décr, décr, and guests can can use the Finnish sauna, rent bikes and visit the n earby nature trail t Fidv Gaj. Q 6 rooms (singles €30-38, doubles €44-60). Lowest prices are fr stays f 3 days r mre. PJLBKDW
838 60 00/+386 (0)41 287 742, fax +386 (0)3 838 60 01,
[email protected], www.apartmalogarska.si. Harmniusly Harmniusly cmbining the traditinal with the mdern, n expense was spared in the envirnmentally friendly d esign and cnstructi n f this alpine retreat. The main fcus here is n the ‘mini wellness’ centre, which is actually quite large by private accmmdatin standards. Built t resemble a cave, cmplete with artificial rck walls, ceilings and nks, it basts varius saunas and treatments, even including smething called a bi-spectrum chamber. Hwever, fr ur mney the apartments here are the real draw: bright, spacious (40-57m2) and filled with custommade furniture, they’re named after the muntain they have direct views twards. one f the apartments (Savinja) is als fully wheel chair accessible, with wide drs, an ext ra large bathrm and n bstructins. Q 5 apartments (€21-23/ person depending on availability, €66-116/apartment). €66-116/apartment). Ex tra cleaning charges may apply. Guests receive a 15% discount n the wellness facilities. PTAULDW
What t See Lgarska Dlina While many peple utside f Slvenia may be unfamiliar with the name Lgarska Dlina, r Lgar Valley, there’s a gd chance that they’ve seen phts f it at sme pint: wide green meadws brken by a single winding rad and several perfectly placed linden trees, thick alpine frests spilling dwn frm the slping muntains n either side, and the craggy Kamnik-Savinja Alps rising like a mirage in the backgrund, ften with a light dusting f snw. Based slely n aesthetics, Lgarska Dlina wuld find itself near the tp f any credible list f must-see natural sights in Eurpe, hwever, the valley is mre than just a pretty face. Jointly manage d since 1992 by both a locally owne d turism develpment cmpany and a separate dedicated turist assciatin, as well as the fficial municipal turism ffice, the entire valley is a prtected natural landscape park, meaning that its preservatin is painstakingly maintained, while at the same time its varied and diverse turism ffering is well-rganised fr guests. With new develpment strictly prhibited, virtually every farm in the valley nw ffers sme frm f accmmdatin and/ r catering services.
Chapel of Christ the King (Kapela Kristusa Kralja).
This large chapel is perhaps mst ntable fr its lcatin in the lush green meadws surrunded by a wall f trees at the entrance t Lgarska Dlina than fr any f its physical characteristics, but as they say in real estate the three things that matter mst are lcatin, lcatin, lcatin. Built at the behest f lcal farmers t hnur the memry f the sn f the gd dctr Šuman, it was riginally intended t serve as a small church, where mass culd be held fr residents f the valley, and the cmmissin fr the design was given to renowned Slovene architect Jože Plečnik. However, these plans were never realised, and it was built in a similar st yle by the architect Martin Glb, which has led t sme cnfusin amongst visitors who often mistake it for one of Plečnik’s wn. Fr visits t the interir, prir arrangements need t be made with the management of the parish church in Solčava.
Črna Spring Shortly after crashing nearly 100m to earth,
Enjy the cl spray at the base f the twering Rinka Waterfall, pht by YMB eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
the water frm the majestic Rinka Waterfall disappears deep undergrund, emerging several kilmetres later twards the entrance f L garska Dlina. Nt far frm th e Juvanija Turist Farm alng the fringes f the large meadws at the very bttm f the valley, the subterranean stream encunters eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The Church of Our Lady of the Snows watches over Solčava village, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik impenetrable layers f rck, which frces it thrugh the surface. Flwing thrugh dark sedimentary clays gives the chilly water a blackish appearance, and the name Izvir Črne in Slvene (r Black Spring). The spring has been prclaimed a natural heritage site, and a small wden viewing platfrm gives visitrs a better angle frm which t gaze int the dark waters. Fund at the beginning f the nature trail running thrugh the valley, the spring is nly a cuple minutes walk frm the rad.
Fairytale Forest Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3
839 16 50/+386 (0)31 249 441,
[email protected], www.logarska-narazpotju.si. If yu’re travelling with yur family and th e kids ha ve had all the walking, hiking and/r cycling they can take, a trip t the Fairytale Frest may be in rder. Lcated n the prperty f Penzin na Razptju just abut in the middle f Lgarska Dlina, the themed frest trail has over 35 different stations covering an area of over 20,000 square metres. The fairy tales depicted cme frm bth wellknwn internatinal stries as well as Slvenian flk tales, all f which include a shrt infrmative card abut the stry and authrs, and mst are made f natural lcally-surced materials. The pathway is designed fr unaccmpanied visits, but guides can be arranged with advance ntice, which is especially useful ptin fr nn-Slvene speakers, and admissin t the frest als includes a chance fr the kids t pet, play with and therwise anny the farm animals kept in the meadw ut frnt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €2.50. Discounts for groups larger than 30.
Logar Farm one f the nly farms in the valley that is nt
pen t turists, the Lgar farmstead is nnetheless an interesting attractin - even if nly viewed frm the rad. First, and mst bviusly, Lgar is the family after which the entire valley was riginally named. And secnd, ne the main activities n this large wrking farm is tending a herd f Scttish highland cattle, a shaggy lng-haired and hrned breed f bvine that lks entirely t extic t still exist in Eurpe. Be prepared t pull ff the rad shrtly after enterin g the valley t let the kids have a lk and snap a few phts f the strange-lking beasts.
Logarska Dolina Walking Trail By far the mst ppular walk or hike in all of Solčavsko is the 7km path that runs the length f Lgarska Dlina, frm the wide pen meadws f the lower valley to the crashing waters of 100m high Rinka Waterfall at the valley’s ppsite end. The walk will take a minimum f tw t three hurs fr a return trip, but is sub2012/13
35
34
SolčavSko Region Potočka Zijalka Cave
SolčavSko Region Pod Macesnovo Streho Robanov Kot 5, tel. +386 (0)3
Solčava Ekološka Turistična Kmetija Ramšak Podolševa 13,
tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 50,
[email protected], www. tk-ramsak.com. Knwn thrughut the regin fr its highquality rganic prducts, the farm has been fficially certified as ecological since 1999. For overnight guests there are two duble rms in the main huse and a separate apartment cttage with tw bedrms that can sleep up t five peple, and lts f things fr the kids t make use f, including a playgrund and sprts equipment (table tennis, badmintn, etc). During the summer, guests can als make use f a cvered area with a large stne fireplace fr their wn picnics r BBQs. Alternatively, hme-cked lcal cuisine is never in shrt supply, and vegetarians vegetarians will be glad t here that a number f nn-meat dishes are amng the specialities f the kitchen. Q 2 rooms and 1 apartments (singles €30, doubles €50, apartment €65). T6ILW
Gostišče Firšt Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
The entrance to Potočka Zijalka Cave on Mount Olševa, pht by Mark Slapnik Resembling a gaping muth r mysterius dark eye at the base f the suth-facing rcky clif fs f Munt olševa, the Potočka Zijalka Cave is arguably the most important archelgical site in all f Slvenia. Althugh it had lng been knwn t lcals thanks t its auspicious appearance, the 115m long cave was only first excavated in 1928 by Dr Srečko Brodar. Over a seven-year perid Dr Brdar and his team discvered over 300 stone objects (80 of which were tools), 123 bne pints and a mind-bggling amunt f animal remains, including an estimated 1000 cave bears, as well as 39 other species of wolves, foxes, lynxes, deer, chamis, marmts and ther small mammals. The artefacts date frm the Upper Palaelithic perid between 40,000-30,000 years ago, and judging from what was fund it was first hypthesised that the cave served as a hunting utpst - and quite an advanced ne by Cr-Magnn standards, given the presence f what are thught t be sme f the earliest knwn arrwheads. Hwever, a mre recent thery psits that the site was actually a place where early animistic rituals were carried ut. This is based largely n tw f the mst intriguing items that were discvered: a rudimentary flute that is cn sidered t be ne f th e ldest musica l instruments ever discvered (it’s made frm the lwer jaw f a cave bear, with three hles b red int it) an d a rare bne needle, which was threaded thrugh the hllw f the bne rather than an eye as mdern needles are. The mst extensive public display f findings frm the cave can be fund at the reginal museum in Celje, althugh many f them were unfrtunately destryed (alng with much f the rest f the museum’s cllectin) during allied bmbardment in the waning mnths f WWII. The Firšt Museum in Solčava also has a fine exhibition detailing the histry f the cave and what was fund during the excavatins. The cave itself is pen fr thse interested in making the steep hike up the muntain frm the settlement f Pdlševa at the eastern end f the Panramic Rad althugh it’s nt strictly required, hiring a qualified and knowledgable guide through the tourist office in Solčava is definitely recmmended.
46 78,
[email protected], www.fir st-logarska.si.Just st-logarska.si.Just west of Solčava proper, Firšt is something of a one-stop-shop fr turists, with an in-huse museum, rganised hiking hiking trail, accmmdatin and the twn’s mst ppular restaurant. The latter specialises in fresh river trut, but als has an interesting selectin f game dishes (we can say withut res ervatin that they serve the best chamis gulash we’ve ever had!) and lcal cuisine. The six cmfrtable rms are cmpletely furnished in light wd décr, décr, and guests can can use the Finnish sauna, rent bikes and visit the n earby nature trail t Fidv Gaj. Q 6 rooms (singles €30-38, doubles €44-60). Lowest prices are fr stays f 3 days r mre. PJLBKDW
36
838 60 00/+386 (0)41 287 742, fax +386 (0)3 838 60 01,
[email protected], www.apartmalogarska.si. Harmniusly Harmniusly cmbining the traditinal with the mdern, n expense was spared in the envirnmentally friendly d esign and cnstructi n f this alpine retreat. The main fcus here is n the ‘mini wellness’ centre, which is actually quite large by private accmmdatin standards. Built t resemble a cave, cmplete with artificial rck walls, ceilings and nks, it basts varius saunas and treatments, even including smething called a bi-spectrum chamber. Hwever, fr ur mney the apartments here are the real draw: bright, spacious (40-57m2) and filled with custommade furniture, they’re named after the muntain they have direct views twards. one f the apartments (Savinja) is als fully wheel chair accessible, with wide drs, an ext ra large bathrm and n bstructins. Q 5 apartments (€21-23/ person depending on availability, €66-116/apartment). €66-116/apartment). Ex tra cleaning charges may apply. Guests receive a 15% discount n the wellness facilities. PTAULDW
What t See Lgarska Dlina While many peple utside f Slvenia may be unfamiliar with the name Lgarska Dlina, r Lgar Valley, there’s a gd chance that they’ve seen phts f it at sme pint: wide green meadws brken by a single winding rad and several perfectly placed linden trees, thick alpine frests spilling dwn frm the slping muntains n either side, and the craggy Kamnik-Savinja Alps rising like a mirage in the backgrund, ften with a light dusting f snw. Based slely n aesthetics, Lgarska Dlina wuld find itself near the tp f any credible list f must-see natural sights in Eurpe, hwever, the valley is mre than just a pretty face. Jointly manage d since 1992 by both a locally owne d turism develpment cmpany and a separate dedicated turist assciatin, as well as the fficial municipal turism ffice, the entire valley is a prtected natural landscape park, meaning that its preservatin is painstakingly maintained, while at the same time its varied and diverse turism ffering is well-rganised fr guests. With new develpment strictly prhibited, virtually every farm in the valley nw ffers sme frm f accmmdatin and/ r catering services.
Chapel of Christ the King (Kapela Kristusa Kralja).
This large chapel is perhaps mst ntable fr its lcatin in the lush green meadws surrunded by a wall f trees at the entrance t Lgarska Dlina than fr any f its physical characteristics, but as they say in real estate the three things that matter mst are lcatin, lcatin, lcatin. Built at the behest f lcal farmers t hnur the memry f the sn f the gd dctr Šuman, it was riginally intended t serve as a small church, where mass culd be held fr residents f the valley, and the cmmissin fr the design was given to renowned Slovene architect Jože Plečnik. However, these plans were never realised, and it was built in a similar st yle by the architect Martin Glb, which has led t sme cnfusin amongst visitors who often mistake it for one of Plečnik’s wn. Fr visits t the interir, prir arrangements need t be made with the management of the parish church in Solčava.
Črna Spring Shortly after crashing nearly 100m to earth,
Enjy the cl spray at the base f the twering Rinka Waterfall, pht by YMB eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
the water frm the majestic Rinka Waterfall disappears deep undergrund, emerging several kilmetres later twards the entrance f L garska Dlina. Nt far frm th e Juvanija Turist Farm alng the fringes f the large meadws at the very bttm f the valley, the subterranean stream encunters
The Church of Our Lady of the Snows watches over Solčava village, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik impenetrable layers f rck, which frces it thrugh the surface. Flwing thrugh dark sedimentary clays gives the chilly water a blackish appearance, and the name Izvir Črne in Slvene (r Black Spring). The spring has been prclaimed a natural heritage site, and a small wden viewing platfrm gives visitrs a better angle frm which t gaze int the dark waters. Fund at the beginning f the nature trail running thrugh the valley, the spring is nly a cuple minutes walk frm the rad.
Fairytale Forest Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3
839 16 50/+386 (0)31 249 441,
[email protected], www.logarska-narazpotju.si. If yu’re travelling with yur family and th e kids ha ve had all the walking, hiking and/r cycling they can take, a trip t the Fairytale Frest may be in rder. Lcated n the prperty f Penzin na Razptju just abut in the middle f Lgarska Dlina, the themed frest trail has over 35 different stations covering an area of over 20,000 square metres. The fairy tales depicted cme frm bth wellknwn internatinal stries as well as Slvenian flk tales, all f which include a shrt infrmative card abut the stry and authrs, and mst are made f natural lcally-surced materials. The pathway is designed fr unaccmpanied visits, but guides can be arranged with advance ntice, which is especially useful ptin fr nn-Slvene speakers, and admissin t the frest als includes a chance fr the kids t pet, play with and therwise anny the farm animals kept in the meadw ut frnt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €2.50. Discounts for groups larger than 30.
Logar Farm one f the nly farms in the valley that is nt
pen t turists, the Lgar farmstead is nnetheless an interesting attractin - even if nly viewed frm the rad. First, and mst bviusly, Lgar is the family after which the entire valley was riginally named. And secnd, ne the main activities n this large wrking farm is tending a herd f Scttish highland cattle, a shaggy lng-haired and hrned breed f bvine that lks entirely t extic t still exist in Eurpe. Be prepared t pull ff the rad shrtly after enterin g the valley t let the kids have a lk and snap a few phts f the strange-lking beasts.
Logarska Dolina Walking Trail By far the mst ppular walk or hike in all of Solčavsko is the 7km path that runs the length f Lgarska Dlina, frm the wide pen meadws f the lower valley to the crashing waters of 100m high Rinka Waterfall at the valley’s ppsite end. The walk will take a minimum f tw t three hurs fr a return trip, but is sub-
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
SolčavSko Region
2012/13
SolčavSko Region Annual Events Mountain Wood Festival Held each year at the end f May, the festival includes presentatins f muntain frests, special trees and prperties f muntain timber, demnstratins, wrkshps and sale f muntain wd prducts, as well as the prmtin f special culinary dishes cnnected t the frests. organised hikes and ther activities in the frest are als arran ged.
A perfect place fr a picnic!, pht by YMB
Panramic Rad
The Rinka Centre in Solčava village combines traditional materials with modern design, photo by Marko Slapnik stantially lnger if yu stp t take in the sights alng the way. of curse the trail never strays far frm the rad (this is a valley after all), s the rute can be as lng r shrt as yu like. The trail fficially begins n the right hand side f the rad ppsite the Juvanija turist farm, but mst peple park near the gatehuse and walk frm there. The first sight you come to is Črna Spring, and only a shrt distance fur ther is a typical lumberjack’s hut, which shws hw the men frm this age-ld prfessin lived and worked in the vast forests of Solčavsko. From here the trail crsses the rad several times befre passing by Dm Planincev (a great place fr a basic but tasty an d fillin g lunch) an d arrivi ng at st ill-fun ctin al charc al pile. In the 19th centur y, charcoal was was the main source of fuel for blacksmiths in the regin, and the practice f prducing it greatly al tered the appearance f the valley as mst f the natural beech trees were cut dwn. o n rganised trips a charcal burner will demnstrate hw it was made. As the trail cntinues i ts upwards ascent t the upper valley it cuts thrugh thicker alpine frests and finishes at the parking lt and utdr snack bar just belw the shrt path that leads up t Rinka Waterfall. While n yur jurney thrugh nature, remember that this is a prtected park, s picking flwers, leaving any kind f rubbish r disturbing the animals is strictly prhibited.
Rinka Waterfall The secnd highest waterfall in all f Sl-
venia, the Rinka plunges a total of 105m from the small ri ver above to the pool belo w, with a single drop of 90m. Arguably the mst impressive individual attractin in Lgarska Dlina, if nt the entire regin, the waterfall is a must-see stp n any visit. Frm the parking lt at the end f the rad running thrugh the valley, a well-maintained ftpath leads t the viewing area just below the falls (about a 10-minute walk slightly uphill), althugh the best place t take in the gushing vertical stream is frm the café that clings t a rcky crag just nex t t th e water i tself - nicknamed th e Eagle’s Nest, refreshingly cld beers, tasty ice cream bars and generusly pured glasses f schnapps can all be enjyed n the terrace. During winter it’s nt un cmmn t see adventurus climbers scaling the icy cliff face. EDEN Slovenia
35
Matkv Kt The wildest and most preserved of Solčavsko’s three valleys, Matkv Kt was irnically the first t have a proper road, which was built here around 1860 to con nect the regin with Austria and was mainly used fr the exprt f wd and charcal. The rad is still used and little changed (meaning largely unsealed) t this day. The bttm f the valley is cmpletely uninhabited, while the several farmsteads here are clustered arund the pastures well up the western slpes f the muntain. one f these farms is that f the Matk family, frm which the valley takes its name and at 700 hectares was once one f the largest farms in all f Slvenia. Mst f the visitrs wh cme t the valley are after sme serius hiking (r even mre serius muntain biking), althugh many turists als pt fr the relatively straight frward hike all the way t the upper end f the valley. The rute fllws alng the Jezer stream and much larger dried riverbed thrugh which it runs. The stream’s rather dd name (jezer means lake in Slvene) is a reference t the giant glacial lakes that nce filled much f the valley flr.
Matkov Škaf Alternatively referred t as Matk’s tub, Matk’s
bucket, Matk’s tube r simply the snw pit, this natural seasnal phenmenn in the upper reaches f Matkv Kt is ne f the regin’s mst bizarre sights. Created by the frce of a 40m waterfall which appears each spring as the snow begins t melt, the falling water slwly erdes an enrmus hle in the cmpacted snw belw. Althugh its size varies depending upn hw much snw has fallen ver the winter, the hollow usually reaches a depth of some 20-30m and measures between 10-20m across - in recent years it’s tended t be at the lesser end f these estimates. Located at a height of nearly 1500m, it’s quite a long hike frm the nearest parking, as cars can nly g as far as the dry river bed near the beginning f the valley. The best time t visit is in early June, and lcal tur agencies can arrange visits here, as well as a prper climbing ad venture dwn int the icy abyss. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Winding its way alng the fthills f olševa muntain at an average height of over 1200m, the Solčava Panoramic Rad is ne f the mst scenic drives in all f Slvenia. Beginning at the fields in the upper reaches f Matkv Kt in the west, the rad twists and turns its way thrugh varius farmsteads and vantages pints, past cuntless flcks f sheep and small her ds f cattle, all the way t the settlement f Pdlševa in the east and then back dwn to Solčava from there - covering a total of nearly 20km. Even fr thse wh have spent time explring the valleys belw, and have thus becme used t the impsing sight f Kamnik-Savinja Alps lming verhead, the views frm the panramic rad are truly a sublime sight, and it’s nt an exaggeratin t say that yu feel like yu’re n tp f the wrld. other than the varius vantage pints and unbstructed views, highlights include the grassy meadws and homemade cheese at Žibovt farm, the ethnological exhibitin at Klemenšek farm, the Irn Water Spring, and the picture-perfect Church f the Hly Spirit. If yu’re feeling even mre adventurus, activities such as paragliding and hikes up to the famous Potočka Zijalka cave can als be arranged. The rute is maintained and prmted by the Panrama Sciety (Društv Panrama) and even has its own website (www.nad1000m.si), which is a bit f a wrk in prgress but already a gd resurce fr prspective visitrs.
Iron Spring Lcated at the end f a shr t well-kept ftpath ftpath just ff the Panramic Rad, the water frm frm this undergrund stream r spring riginates deep within the muntainside frm the tectnic faul t that runs al ng t he Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Rich in irn and carbnic acid, the water has lng-been thught t have healing pwers by the lcals wh drink frm it. We culdn’t resist the urge urselves, and althugh it tastes smething like a handful f cins and has a nticeable tingly feeling, much t the surprise f the t her members f ur grup we culdn’t stp drinking the stuff, and actually ended up filling up an empty plastic bttle t take with us. The sign indicating the spring’s lcatin is easy t miss if yu’re nt familiar with the area, s keep an eye ut fr it after passing Klemenšek Turist Farm if yu’re cming frm the west, there will be a small parking area n the side f the rad t the right.
Days of Solčava This traditinal ethnlgical event is the highlight f the annual cultural calendar in Solčava. Taking place in late July, visitrs can taste the hmemade culinary specialities f the regin, see exhibitins f lcal prducts, medicinal herbs and indigenus animals, as well as watch presentatins f the mst interesting sights in the area. Like all small twn festivals, there is always a full prgramme f music cncer ts and ther entertai nment events. The “Bicka” Sheep Wool Festival In mid t late September, after the shepherds have brught their flcks back dwn frm their summer grazing in the high alpine pastures, a festival dedicated t Solčavsko’s indigenous breed of sheep is held. Activities include a demnstratin sheep shearing and wl prcessing, wrkshps n the basics f prducing felt and felt prducts, a fashin shw featuring all wl clth ing, traditinal muntain cking, an d f curse an accmpanying cultural prgramme and lts f live music. Rinka Centre Events The Rinka Centre hsts many cultural, business and ther themed events thrughut the year, including art exhibitins in the multipurpse space dwnstairs. built in the early 1950s, during a perio d of reconstruction folfol lwing the devastating destructin wrught in the final years f WWII, Rinka lng-served as a meeting pla ce fr lcals and ffices fr varius lcal services befre falling int disrepair in the late 1980s. The building was purchased by the city in 2007, and beautifully renovated, modernised and reopened with the help f funding frm Nrway. With a sheer façade f muntain wd and jagged gemetrical design resembling ne f the many muntain peaks that surrund it, the building is a glwing testament t what can be achieved with lcal initiative and prper supprt. The basement is nw hme t the regin’s turist infrmatin
Solčava Rinka Centre Solčava 29, tel. +386 (0)3 839 07 10,
fax +386 (0)3 839 07 11,
[email protected], www. solcavsko.info. officially called the multipurpse centre fr Solčavsko development, Rinka is the geographical, adminis trative and tourism centre of the town of Solčava. Originally eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
A shepherd in traditinal clthing pses with sme indigenus Jezersko-Solčava sheep, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik 2012/13
37
36
SolčavSko Region
SolčavSko Region
37
Annual Events Mountain Wood Festival Held each year at the end f May, the festival includes presentatins f muntain frests, special trees and prperties f muntain timber, demnstratins, wrkshps and sale f muntain wd prducts, as well as the prmtin f special culinary dishes cnnected t the frests. organised hikes and ther activities in the frest are als arran ged.
A perfect place fr a picnic!, pht by YMB
Panramic Rad
The Rinka Centre in Solčava village combines traditional materials with modern design, photo by Marko Slapnik stantially lnger if yu stp t take in the sights alng the way. of curse the trail never strays far frm the rad (this is a valley after all), s the rute can be as lng r shrt as yu like. The trail fficially begins n the right hand side f the rad ppsite the Juvanija turist farm, but mst peple park near the gatehuse and walk frm there. The first sight you come to is Črna Spring, and only a shrt distance fur ther is a typical lumberjack’s hut, which shws hw the men frm this age-ld prfessin lived and worked in the vast forests of Solčavsko. From here the trail crsses the rad several times befre passing by Dm Planincev (a great place fr a basic but tasty an d fillin g lunch) an d arrivi ng at st ill-fun ctin al charc al pile. In the 19th centur y, charcoal was was the main source of fuel for blacksmiths in the regin, and the practice f prducing it greatly al tered the appearance f the valley as mst f the natural beech trees were cut dwn. o n rganised trips a charcal burner will demnstrate hw it was made. As the trail cntinues i ts upwards ascent t the upper valley it cuts thrugh thicker alpine frests and finishes at the parking lt and utdr snack bar just belw the shrt path that leads up t Rinka Waterfall. While n yur jurney thrugh nature, remember that this is a prtected park, s picking flwers, leaving any kind f rubbish r disturbing the animals is strictly prhibited.
Rinka Waterfall The secnd highest waterfall in all f Sl-
venia, the Rinka plunges a total of 105m from the small ri ver above to the pool belo w, with a single drop of 90m. Arguably the mst impressive individual attractin in Lgarska Dlina, if nt the entire regin, the waterfall is a must-see stp n any visit. Frm the parking lt at the end f the rad running thrugh the valley, a well-maintained ftpath leads t the viewing area just below the falls (about a 10-minute walk slightly uphill), althugh the best place t take in the gushing vertical stream is frm the café that clings t a rcky crag just nex t t th e water i tself - nicknamed th e Eagle’s Nest, refreshingly cld beers, tasty ice cream bars and generusly pured glasses f schnapps can all be enjyed n the terrace. During winter it’s nt un cmmn t see adventurus climbers scaling the icy cliff face.
Matkv Kt The wildest and most preserved of Solčavsko’s three valleys, Matkv Kt was irnically the first t have a proper road, which was built here around 1860 to con nect the regin with Austria and was mainly used fr the exprt f wd and charcal. The rad is still used and little changed (meaning largely unsealed) t this day. The bttm f the valley is cmpletely uninhabited, while the several farmsteads here are clustered arund the pastures well up the western slpes f the muntain. one f these farms is that f the Matk family, frm which the valley takes its name and at 700 hectares was once one f the largest farms in all f Slvenia. Mst f the visitrs wh cme t the valley are after sme serius hiking (r even mre serius muntain biking), althugh many turists als pt fr the relatively straight frward hike all the way t the upper end f the valley. The rute fllws alng the Jezer stream and much larger dried riverbed thrugh which it runs. The stream’s rather dd name (jezer means lake in Slvene) is a reference t the giant glacial lakes that nce filled much f the valley flr.
Matkov Škaf Alternatively referred t as Matk’s tub, Matk’s
bucket, Matk’s tube r simply the snw pit, this natural seasnal phenmenn in the upper reaches f Matkv Kt is ne f the regin’s mst bizarre sights. Created by the frce of a 40m waterfall which appears each spring as the snow begins t melt, the falling water slwly erdes an enrmus hle in the cmpacted snw belw. Althugh its size varies depending upn hw much snw has fallen ver the winter, the hollow usually reaches a depth of some 20-30m and measures between 10-20m across - in recent years it’s tended t be at the lesser end f these estimates. Located at a height of nearly 1500m, it’s quite a long hike frm the nearest parking, as cars can nly g as far as the dry river bed near the beginning f the valley. The best time t visit is in early June, and lcal tur agencies can arrange visits here, as well as a prper climbing ad venture dwn int the icy abyss. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
38
Winding its way alng the fthills f olševa muntain at an average height of over 1200m, the Solčava Panoramic Rad is ne f the mst scenic drives in all f Slvenia. Beginning at the fields in the upper reaches f Matkv Kt in the west, the rad twists and turns its way thrugh varius farmsteads and vantages pints, past cuntless flcks f sheep and small her ds f cattle, all the way t the settlement f Pdlševa in the east and then back dwn to Solčava from there - covering a total of nearly 20km. Even fr thse wh have spent time explring the valleys belw, and have thus becme used t the impsing sight f Kamnik-Savinja Alps lming verhead, the views frm the panramic rad are truly a sublime sight, and it’s nt an exaggeratin t say that yu feel like yu’re n tp f the wrld. other than the varius vantage pints and unbstructed views, highlights include the grassy meadws and homemade cheese at Žibovt farm, the ethnological exhibitin at Klemenšek farm, the Irn Water Spring, and the picture-perfect Church f the Hly Spirit. If yu’re feeling even mre adventurus, activities such as paragliding and hikes up to the famous Potočka Zijalka cave can als be arranged. The rute is maintained and prmted by the Panrama Sciety (Društv Panrama) and even has its own website (www.nad1000m.si), which is a bit f a wrk in prgress but already a gd resurce fr prspective visitrs.
Iron Spring Lcated at the end f a shr t well-kept ftpath ftpath just ff the Panramic Rad, the water frm frm this undergrund stream r spring riginates deep within the muntainside frm the tectnic faul t that runs al ng t he Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Rich in irn and carbnic acid, the water has lng-been thught t have healing pwers by the lcals wh drink frm it. We culdn’t resist the urge urselves, and althugh it tastes smething like a handful f cins and has a nticeable tingly feeling, much t the surprise f the t her members f ur grup we culdn’t stp drinking the stuff, and actually ended up filling up an empty plastic bttle t take with us. The sign indicating the spring’s lcatin is easy t miss if yu’re nt familiar with the area, s keep an eye ut fr it after passing Klemenšek Turist Farm if yu’re cming frm the west, there will be a small parking area n the side f the rad t the right.
Church of Our Lady of the Snows of the cuntless
built in the early 1950s, during a perio d of reconstruction folfol lwing the devastating destructin wrught in the final years f WWII, Rinka lng-served as a meeting pla ce fr lcals and ffices fr varius lcal services befre falling int disrepair in the late 1980s. The building was purchased by the city in 2007, and beautifully renovated, modernised and reopened with the help f funding frm Nrway. With a sheer façade f muntain wd and jagged gemetrical design resembling ne f the many muntain peaks that surrund it, the building is a glwing testament t what can be achieved with lcal initiative and prper supprt. The basement is nw hme t the regin’s turist infrmatin
Rinka Centre Solčava 29, tel. +386 (0)3 839 07 10,
fax +386 (0)3 839 07 11,
[email protected], www. solcavsko.info. officially called the multipurpse centre fr Solčavsko development, Rinka is the geographical, adminis trative and tourism centre of the town of Solčava. Originally eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
A shepherd in traditinal clthing pses with sme indigenus Jezersko-Solčava sheep, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik 2012/13
prvides an in-depth histry f the flk medicine and medicinal plant life in the area, including the extensive research cnducted by a rath er peculiar lcal called Vid Strgar, Strgar, wh lived in the nearby Fidva Zijalka Zijalka cave with his wi fe fr the better part f nine years. Definitely wrth visiting either befre r after sampling the fine cuisine upstairs. Q Admission €1.50, children €1. Video presentation €10/group. €10/group.
Traditional handicrafts of Solčavsko
The Needle Unless you’re coming to Solčavsko by way
f the small muntain rad leading frm Austria, an even smaller partially unsealed rad leading t the Krška regin r n ft ver the muntains, yu will have t literally pass thrugh the eye f a needle t get here. The n eedle in questin is a twering belisk shaped na tural rck frmatin alng the upper Savinja river n the main rad between Luče and Robanov Kot. And before you bristle at our use f the wrd ‚literally’, knw that a hle has actually been bred int the massive rck’s base leaving just enugh rm fr vehicles t squeeze thugh - cmpleting the needle imagery with an eye that even a camel culd pass thrugh (srry, we culdn’t resist). In any event, this is just a but the mst apprpriate entrance t ne f Slvenia’s mst remte and naturally beautiful regins.
Fidov Gaj Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)41 742
292,
[email protected], www.fidov-gaj.si. Fans f medicinal herbs and natural remedies wn’t want t miss a chance t visit the mystical Fida Grve and nearby Fida Zijalka cave, which was fr sme nine years the hme t a lcal eccentric, dctr f flk medicines and accmplished author Vid Strgar in the second half of the 19th century. Recently renvated and pened t turists, the relatively easy walking path t the cave passes thrugh sme beauti ful lit tle mun tain mead ws and frests, wit h an extende d visit t Strgar’s garden f medicines, which served as the inspiratin fr his widely read tme f flk medicines Health of Patients (Zdravje Bolnikov), first published in 1866. Of curse mst interesting fr mst peple is the visit t th e small karst cave where the gd dctr resided fr nearly a decade. Tours take between 2 and 2.5 hours. Q Admission €4, children €2.50. Groups of more than 10 receive a slight discunt.
Firšt Museum Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
EDEN Slovenia
Rinka Centre Events The Rinka Centre hsts many cultural, business and ther themed events thrughut the year, including art exhibitins in the multipurpse space dwnstairs.
SolčavSko Region
churches and chapels we’ve visited a crss Slvenia ver the years, Solčava’s Our Lady of the Snows manages to stand ut frm the rest. This is thanks in n small part t its remte muntain lcatin, perched n a little hill just above the centre of Solčava with a backdrop of mountains in every directin, but the church itself is als a fine specimen f Gthic architecture and its interir cntains several intriguing artistic and religius elements that are well wrth viewing. A church was first built here by mnks frm the market town of Gornji Grad in the 12 th or 13th centur y, while Adventure Valley Luče 103, tel. +386 (0)51 606 the much larger church that can still be seen tday was completed in 1485 after a quarter century of construction, 410/+386 (0)51 606 420,
[email protected], and the ne-Gthic bell twer was added at th e beginning www.adventurevalley.si. www.adventurevalley.si.The The name f this utfit was nt of the 18th century. Special attention should be paid to the chsen at randm, if it’s ad venture yu’re lking fr then uppermst niche f the main al tar, tar, where the impressive these are the peple t get in tuch with. They ffer mre sandstone statue of the Solčavsko Marija stands. Often r less any utdr activi ty that yu can imagine, frm the cnsidered ne f the mst beautiful religius sculptures in standard chices f rafting, rck climbing and muntain Slvenia, this Rmanesque wrk dates back t the middle biking t thse suitable fr the mst extreme adrenaline of the 13th century. As the church has been wi thout its own junkies, such as par aglidin g ver muntain pea ks, canynpriest fr sme years, it is kept lcked except fr during Sunday mrning mass, s enquire at the turist infrmatin centre in Rinka if yu’d like t visit.
46 78,
[email protected], ww w.first-logarska.si. on the grund flr f the Firšt restaurant and guesthuse just west of Solča va there’s fine li ttle museu m that detail s the discovery of and findings from the Potočka Zijalka Cave, which is cnsidered ne f the mst imprtant archelgical and paleontological sites in Slovenia. A total of 18 in formaformatin bards are in Slvene, with shrter explanatins in English and German, and there are sme interesting and self-explanatry maps f the area, charts and phts that include the mst famus item frm the cave: the wrld’s oldest needle. A 25-minute multi-vision presentation is als available, but this is currently nly available in Slvene. In 2007, a separate exhibition opened at the museum, which
The “Bicka” Sheep Wool Festival In mid t late September, after the shepherds have brught their flcks back dwn frm their summer grazing in the high alpine pastures, a festival dedicated t Solčavsko’s indigenous breed of sheep is held. Activities include a demnstratin sheep shearing and wl prcessing, wrkshps n the basics f prducing felt and felt prducts, a fashin shw featuring all wl clth ing, traditinal muntain cking, an d f curse an accmpanying cultural prgramme and lts f live music.
Solčava
SolčavSko Region centre, which in additin t the usual brchures, guides and maps, als basts a multipurpse hall and well-arranged permanent exhibitin that cmbines histrical, natural and ethnlgical presentatins. Lking like smething ut f a Scandinavian design magazine, n the grund-flr there’s a bright, mdern and entirely wd-cvered space that includes a café, gift shp with lcal crafts and agriculture prducts, a internet crner, and a children’s play area (cmplete with ty sheep and thick wl rugs). Meanwhile, the upper flrs have lcal municipal ffices and facilities fr use by l cal businesses under the framewrk f a rural develpment incubatr.
Days of Solčava This traditinal ethnlgical event is the highlight f the annual cultural calendar in Solčava. Taking place in late July, visitrs can taste the hmemade culinary specialities f the regin, see exhibitins f lcal prducts, medicinal herbs and indigenus animals, as well as watch presentatins f the mst interesting sights in the area. Like all small twn festivals, there is always a full prgramme f music cncer ts and ther entertai nment events.
The road to Solčava literally passes through the eye of the Needle, photo by Andrejka Lončar Horvat eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Archery is nly ne f the many activities ffered at Gradišnik Farm, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik ing up crashing waterfalls and cycling thrugh caves - an d these are just th e summer adventures. In the winter yu can chse frm tur skiing, ice climbing, sledding, snwsheing and much mre. operated by a yung energetic team f highly trained pr fessinal s, they even ffer multi-da y packages that incl ude rm, bard, transprt and all activities. While they are technically located in Luče just a cross the municipal border from Solčava, their trips cover the entire Upper Savinja Valley, and are primarily focussed on the Solčavsko region. Detailed inf can be fund n their very user-friendly English language website.
Rbanv Kt
In many ways Rbanv Kt is the perfect cmbinatin of Solčavsko’s other two valleys, Logarska Dolina and Matkv Kt, as it ffers the wide pen meadws, phtgenic farms and easy yet rewarding walking paths f the frmer, al ng wi th the se renit y and au thent ic und evelped nature f the latter. Protected as an area of natural i mportance since 1987, the valley takes its name frm Rban farmstead, which was first written into the land registry in 1426, but likely dates back to at least the 12th centur y. We’re not sure if this makes it ne f the ldest cntinually perating family fa rms in S lveni a (r perh aps even Eu rpe) bu t nine centuries and cuntless generatins in the same family s eems an i mpressi ve achieve ment t u s. While the family’s farm is nt pen fr turists, they d perate an alpine dairy at the far end f the valley, which als sells hmemade gds and is a ppular destinatin fr hiker s durin g the su mmer mn ths. It takes ab ut an hur t walk there frm where the rad becmes clsed t traffic, thrugh wild frests and pastures fil led with grazing sheep and cws. Frm the dairy the trail very quickly cli mbs upwards leading to Molička Planina and further stil l to the beautiful Korošica plateau located at over 1800m. From mid-June t the end f the September hikers can stp here at a muntain hut t rest befre attempting t reach the peak of Ojstrica at 2350m. Even fr thse wh’d rather keep their hiking n mre r less hrizntal grund, it’s well wrth hiring a guide t accmpany yu - if fr n ther reasn tha n t tell yu sme f the stries and fables f the acclaimed flk writer Jože Vršnik, who was born in Robanov Kot in 19 00 and spent a gd deal f his seventy years here writi ng about the true essence of rural life in Solčava. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
While the most valuable thing most visitors to Solčavsko take hme with them are the lasting memries f their trip, and perhaps sme unbelievable phts dcumenting it fr their friends and family back hme, there are plenty f ptins fr thse wh’d like t purchase mre tangible suvenirs r gifts. The regin’s traditinal handicraf ts are fcussed n three materials: wd, wl and marble. With 88% of the region covered in forests, it’s no surprise that wd plays a key rle in the lives f lcals, frm the cnstructin and furnishing f their huses t fuel fr their fireplaces t material fr their crafts. Mre than just a n atural r esource, Sol čavsko’s mountain wood is believed t cntain a special energy frm the envirnment that is able t psitively affect peple. Muntain larch and spruce trees are the mst cmmnly used species, as they have the perfect cmbinatin f malleability and hardness when they are cut dwn at the right time. The items prduced range frm the functinal (bwls and dishes) t the entertaining (simple games) t the purely aesthetic. Sheep, r mre specifically the in digenus JezerskSolčava breed that was created by cross-breeding dmestic sheep t be mre adapted t alpine cnditins, have been a common sight in Solčavsko for centuries. Lovingly referred to as Solčavka, the wool they produce was lng the main material used fr traditinal clthing, but smewhat fell ut f use during the scialist era. Hwever, there has recently been a cncerted effrt t prmte the use f wl nce again, and in particular the art f felt making. Bicka (www.bicka.si) is a l cally-frmed cperative f ver a dzen wmen, which utilises traditinal felt making methds t create new and innvative prducts and designs. Many f their creatins, such as slippers, hats and cute stuffed animals, can be seen at the Rinka Centre, and they als have a wrkshp and shwrm nearby which can be visited with prir arrangement. Fr years the beautiful pink marble that is native t certain parts of Solčavsko’s mountainous terrain has been used t create religius bjects in churches, decrate the regin’s simple farmhuses, r fr ther functinal cnstructin purpses. Mre recently it has been used by ne lcal craftsman in particular, Medard Šumet, t create decrative items like vases, small dishes and paperweights, as well as purely artistic pieces. These can als be purchased at the Rinka Centre, and visits t Mr Šumet’s wrkshp high abve Matkv Kt n the Panramic Rad can als be arranged.
Pht by Urš Acman 2012/13
39
38
SolčavSko Region centre, which in additin t the usual brchures, guides and maps, als basts a multipurpse hall and well-arranged permanent exhibitin that cmbines histrical, natural and ethnlgical presentatins. Lking like smething ut f a Scandinavian design magazine, n the grund-flr there’s a bright, mdern and entirely wd-cvered space that includes a café, gift shp with lcal crafts and agriculture prducts, a internet crner, and a children’s play area (cmplete with ty sheep and thick wl rugs). Meanwhile, the upper flrs have lcal municipal ffices and facilities fr use by l cal businesses under the framewrk f a rural develpment incubatr.
Church of Our Lady of the Snows of the cuntless
SolčavSko Region
prvides an in-depth histry f the flk medicine and medicinal plant life in the area, including the extensive research cnducted by a rath er peculiar lcal called Vid Strgar, Strgar, wh lived in the nearby Fidva Zijalka Zijalka cave with his wi fe fr the better part f nine years. Definitely wrth visiting either befre r after sampling the fine cuisine upstairs. Q Admission €1.50, children €1. Video presentation €10/group. €10/group.
churches and chapels we’ve visited a crss Slvenia ver the years, Solčava’s Our Lady of the Snows manages to stand ut frm the rest. This is thanks in n small part t its remte muntain lcatin, perched n a little hill just above the centre of Solčava with a backdrop of mountains in every directin, but the church itself is als a fine specimen f Gthic architecture and its interir cntains several intriguing artistic and religius elements that are well wrth viewing. A church was first built here by mnks frm the market town of Gornji Grad in the 12 th or 13th centur y, while Adventure Valley Luče 103, tel. +386 (0)51 606 the much larger church that can still be seen tday was completed in 1485 after a quarter century of construction, 410/+386 (0)51 606 420,
[email protected], and the ne-Gthic bell twer was added at th e beginning www.adventurevalley.si. www.adventurevalley.si.The The name f this utfit was nt of the 18th century. Special attention should be paid to the chsen at randm, if it’s ad venture yu’re lking fr then uppermst niche f the main al tar, tar, where the impressive these are the peple t get in tuch with. They ffer mre sandstone statue of the Solčavsko Marija stands. Often r less any utdr activi ty that yu can imagine, frm the cnsidered ne f the mst beautiful religius sculptures in standard chices f rafting, rck climbing and muntain Slvenia, this Rmanesque wrk dates back t the middle biking t thse suitable fr the mst extreme adrenaline of the 13th century. As the church has been wi thout its own junkies, such as par aglidin g ver muntain pea ks, canynpriest fr sme years, it is kept lcked except fr during Sunday mrning mass, s enquire at the turist infrmatin centre in Rinka if yu’d like t visit.
Fidov Gaj Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)41 742
292,
[email protected], www.fidov-gaj.si. Fans f medicinal herbs and natural remedies wn’t want t miss a chance t visit the mystical Fida Grve and nearby Fida Zijalka cave, which was fr sme nine years the hme t a lcal eccentric, dctr f flk medicines and accmplished author Vid Strgar in the second half of the 19th century. Recently renvated and pened t turists, the relatively easy walking path t the cave passes thrugh sme beauti ful lit tle mun tain mead ws and frests, wit h an extende d visit t Strgar’s garden f medicines, which served as the inspiratin fr his widely read tme f flk medicines Health of Patients (Zdravje Bolnikov), first published in 1866. Of curse mst interesting fr mst peple is the visit t th e small karst cave where the gd dctr resided fr nearly a decade. Tours take between 2 and 2.5 hours. Q Admission €4, children €2.50. Groups of more than 10 receive a slight discunt.
Firšt Museum Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839
46 78,
[email protected], ww w.first-logarska.si. on the grund flr f the Firšt restaurant and guesthuse just west of Solča va there’s fine li ttle museu m that detail s the discovery of and findings from the Potočka Zijalka Cave, which is cnsidered ne f the mst imprtant archelgical and paleontological sites in Slovenia. A total of 18 in formaformatin bards are in Slvene, with shrter explanatins in English and German, and there are sme interesting and self-explanatry maps f the area, charts and phts that include the mst famus item frm the cave: the wrld’s oldest needle. A 25-minute multi-vision presentation is als available, but this is currently nly available in Slvene. In 2007, a separate exhibition opened at the museum, which
The road to Solčava literally passes through the eye of the Needle, photo by Andrejka Lončar Horvat eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
40
Traditional handicrafts of Solčavsko
The Needle Unless you’re coming to Solčavsko by way
f the small muntain rad leading frm Austria, an even smaller partially unsealed rad leading t the Krška regin r n ft ver the muntains, yu will have t literally pass thrugh the eye f a needle t get here. The n eedle in questin is a twering belisk shaped na tural rck frmatin alng the upper Savinja river n the main rad between Luče and Robanov Kot. And before you bristle at our use f the wrd ‚literally’, knw that a hle has actually been bred int the massive rck’s base leaving just enugh rm fr vehicles t squeeze thugh - cmpleting the needle imagery with an eye that even a camel culd pass thrugh (srry, we culdn’t resist). In any event, this is just a but the mst apprpriate entrance t ne f Slvenia’s mst remte and naturally beautiful regins.
Archery is nly ne f the many activities ffered at Gradišnik Farm, photo by Tomo Jeseničnik ing up crashing waterfalls and cycling thrugh caves - an d these are just th e summer adventures. In the winter yu can chse frm tur skiing, ice climbing, sledding, snwsheing and much mre. operated by a yung energetic team f highly trained pr fessinal s, they even ffer multi-da y packages that incl ude rm, bard, transprt and all activities. While they are technically located in Luče just a cross the municipal border from Solčava, their trips cover the entire Upper Savinja Valley, and are primarily focussed on the Solčavsko region. Detailed inf can be fund n their very user-friendly English language website.
Rbanv Kt
In many ways Rbanv Kt is the perfect cmbinatin of Solčavsko’s other two valleys, Logarska Dolina and Matkv Kt, as it ffers the wide pen meadws, phtgenic farms and easy yet rewarding walking paths f the frmer, al ng wi th the se renit y and au thent ic und evelped nature f the latter. Protected as an area of natural i mportance since 1987, the valley takes its name frm Rban farmstead, which was first written into the land registry in 1426, but likely dates back to at least the 12th centur y. We’re not sure if this makes it ne f the ldest cntinually perating family fa rms in S lveni a (r perh aps even Eu rpe) bu t nine centuries and cuntless generatins in the same family s eems an i mpressi ve achieve ment t u s. While the family’s farm is nt pen fr turists, they d perate an alpine dairy at the far end f the valley, which als sells hmemade gds and is a ppular destinatin fr hiker s durin g the su mmer mn ths. It takes ab ut an hur t walk there frm where the rad becmes clsed t traffic, thrugh wild frests and pastures fil led with grazing sheep and cws. Frm the dairy the trail very quickly cli mbs upwards leading to Molička Planina and further stil l to the beautiful Korošica plateau located at over 1800m. From mid-June t the end f the September hikers can stp here at a muntain hut t rest befre attempting t reach the peak of Ojstrica at 2350m. Even fr thse wh’d rather keep their hiking n mre r less hrizntal grund, it’s well wrth hiring a guide t accmpany yu - if fr n ther reasn tha n t tell yu sme f the stries and fables f the acclaimed flk writer Jože Vršnik, who was born in Robanov Kot in 19 00 and spent a gd deal f his seventy years here writi ng about the true essence of rural life in Solčava.
2012/13
Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feel ing a little adventurus.
The Walk of Peace
By bus
Gregorčečeva 8, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 67/+386 (0)31 586 296,
[email protected], www. potmiru.si.The potmiru.si. The mst imprtant sights cnnected with the first world war in the Soča valley have been joined together on this trail since 2007. Divided into five secsec tins f varying difficu lty, it begins at Lg Pd Mangartm and ends at an utdr museum n Mengre hill near Most na Soči, spanning a total of over 80km. Needless t say, there are pssibilities t sleep at settlements alng the way, including at the sectin start/end pints and at a muntain hut n Kuhinja. Hikes t ther nearby muntains are easy t access, and indeed the Walk f Peace itself utilises mainly existing muntain and turist paths, itself being extra-marked.
By bike Yu culd even rent a bike in Ljubljana (r use yur wn) and cycle the whole way (about 120km), if you’re a very keen adventurer r crazy, r bth!
What t See
EDEN Slovenia
Pht by Urš Acman
Soča Valley
There’s a direct bus from Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30 and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lts f internatinal links t and frm Ljubljana.
As Slvenia’s first Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2008, expectations are bound to be high, the cuntry itself brimming with natural beauty and culture. As ne transcends the winding rad up frm Tlmin, r descends the southside of Vršič mountain pass, they becme mesmerised by flashes f turquise appearing at their side. Steal a glance r tw mre and yu realise it is an enchanting river, nne ther than the Soča. Along its banks, in its catchment area, several twns and numerus villages have lain since the Slavic tribes settled here in the 6th century, the ances trs f mdern day Slvenes, their luck untld. It is a beautiful valley, in the true sense f the wrd. Twering rcky muntains f Triglav Natinal Park, lush green fres t and that crys tall ine w ater n pur e whit e stn es. Breathtaking. It is nt ften said that we are in a glden age f travel. We Westerners at least, can affrd t travel almst anywhere in the wrld and there are indeed t many things t see in ne persn’s lifetime. Hwever, the ease f travel within Eurpe at the mment is bvius. Thus the accessibility and proximity of the Soča valley fr ma ny Eur pean s makes it s meth ing nt t miss . Fr thse wh can appreciate natural beauty, r enjy it thrugh utdr activities like hiking, muntain biking, fly fishing, whitewater rafting r paragliding, it’s perfectin. Its significance in mdern histry undubtedly draws visitrs t, the wrld wars having seen key frnt lines n this territry. The stries f war and the area’s heritage are tld thrugh excellent indr and utdr museums, muntain trails and histrical
While the most valuable thing most visitors to Solčavsko take hme with them are the lasting memries f their trip, and perhaps sme unbelievable phts dcumenting it fr their friends and family back hme, there are plenty f ptins fr thse wh’d like t purchase mre tangible suvenirs r gifts. The regin’s traditinal handicraf ts are fcussed n three materials: wd, wl and marble. With 88% of the region covered in forests, it’s no surprise that wd plays a key rle in the lives f lcals, frm the cnstructin and furnishing f their huses t fuel fr their fireplaces t material fr their crafts. Mre than just a n atural r esource, Sol čavsko’s mountain wood is believed t cntain a special energy frm the envirnment that is able t psitively affect peple. Muntain larch and spruce trees are the mst cmmnly used species, as they have the perfect cmbinatin f malleability and hardness when they are cut dwn at the right time. The items prduced range frm the functinal (bwls and dishes) t the entertaining (simple games) t the purely aesthetic. Sheep, r mre specifically the in digenus JezerskSolčava breed that was created by cross-breeding dmestic sheep t be mre adapted t alpine cnditins, have been a common sight in Solčavsko for centuries. Lovingly referred to as Solčavka, the wool they produce was lng the main material used fr traditinal clthing, but smewhat fell ut f use during the scialist era. Hwever, there has recently been a cncerted effrt t prmte the use f wl nce again, and in particular the art f felt making. Bicka (www.bicka.si) is a l cally-frmed cperative f ver a dzen wmen, which utilises traditinal felt making methds t create new and innvative prducts and designs. Many f their creatins, such as slippers, hats and cute stuffed animals, can be seen at the Rinka Centre, and they als have a wrkshp and shwrm nearby which can be visited with prir arrangement. Fr years the beautiful pink marble that is native t certain parts of Solčavsko’s mountainous terrain has been used t create religius bjects in churches, decrate the regin’s simple farmhuses, r fr ther functinal cnstructin purpses. Mre recently it has been used by ne lcal craftsman in particular, Medard Šumet, t create decrative items like vases, small dishes and paperweights, as well as purely artistic pieces. These can als be purchased at the Rinka Centre, and visits t Mr Šumet’s wrkshp high abve Matkv Kt n the Panramic Rad can als be arranged.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Soča Valley
The Soča River The river Soča, all 136km of it, is an almst untuched piece f nature waiting t be discvered. discvered. At its surce in Trenta the pure clear alpine water springs frm a dark kars t crevic e, th en fl ws rapidl y twards the Adriatic sea, alng the way featuring such natural beauties as deep grges and graceful waterfalls. The bright turquoise colour of the Soča deserves a paragraph itself. Utterly awesme just abut begins t describe the thughts that cme t mind when gazing upn its splendur. The best time f year t experience its full impact is spring, when freshly melted alpine snw seeps int its tribu taries. Apparently the green-blue clur is retained even as far as Friuli, nrthern Italy - a testament t its pure alpine rigins. All manner f watersprts and river-based activities begin to thrive on an d around the Soča come springtime: kayak ing, rafting, hydrospeed and fly-fishing for the famous Soča trout. The mystique of the Soča is still held dear by the lcals wh live n its banks, representing an almst spiritual presence, undubtedly a symbl f natural per fectin.
Muntaineering n Kanin, pht by FA BoBo, Archive f LTo Bvec remains such as the medieval Kluže fortress, all linked by the Walk f Peace. Culturally speaking, the self-reliant Soča valley offers stne and sand art, wax and wl prducts, flklric sng and dance, and the cuisine, h the cuisine. Frm Tolmin and Bovec cheese to the native Soča trout, unique ‘čompe’ Bovec potatoes and sweet sweet Kob arid ‘štruklji’, there’s plenty t discver.
Arriving By car From Ljubljana take the A2 motorway north towards Jesen ice, exit there fr the main rad t Kranjska Gra. Turn left thrugh the centre then keep ging ut f the twn and over the Vršič mountain pass (1611m). After about 30km yu will see signs fr Trenta, then fr Bvec, just keep going along main road 206. From Trieste take the A4 north towards Udine, keep following Udine on the A23 north, then exit at Udine. Take the main rad west frm Udine tward Cividale Del Friuli, stay n this rad all the way t Kbarid (Slvenia). Then turn left fr Bvec at the far end f the twn. If yu dn’t have yur transprt, take a bus first t Ljubljan a.
By train Trains are quite tricky. The clsest they get t Bvec is Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From there yu culd take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
39
Ustanova “Fundacija Poti Miru v Posočju”
pls fllws the experience. Upwards f twenty a gencies in Bovec offer whitewater adventures on the Soča.
Fly Fishing on the Soča www.flyfishing.si. Fr
angling enthusiasts the river Soča should be some kind of Mecca, fly fishermen mandated t visit its waters at least nce in their lifetime. A haven fr trut, the nly kind f fishing allwed here is tha t f the fly. Be them dr y, wet, nymph r streamer, streamer, yu may put yur flies nly n barbless hks (just singles), but any kind f line and leader is fine. Th se are not the only strict rul es for fishing on the Soča, so one wuld be well advised t d their research in advance and have the required permits. Then get ut there and catch yurself sme dinner!
Triglav National Park Triglav Natinal Park, th e nly ne f
its kind in Slovenia, covers only 3% of the landmass, yet wha t a spectacular prprtin it is. Lcated in the suth-eastern sectin f the Alps, the Eastern Julian Alps stretch acrss much f nrth-western Slvenia, Slvenia, brdering Austria t the nr th and Italy t the west. The park’s breathtaking landscape, including jag ged peaks, expansive spruce frest, lush valleys and harmnius ecsystem has all been prtected since the Alpine Conservation Park was founded back in 1924. The centrepiece and inspirati n fr its name is Munt Triglav, Triglav, the highest in Slovenia (2864 metres). The mountain is the symbl f Slvenia (it appears in the cat f arms), and the country’s flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the day Slvenia declared independence frm Yugslavia. The name, Triglav, means three-headed, as i t lks t have three peaks when seen frm the Bhinj valley. The climb t the summit i s nt all that hard, but it is ln g. It’s a tw-day ascent t the tp, and requires an vernight stay in a muntain cabin. In shrt, it’s a special piece f nature, well wrth visiting.
Watersports on the Soča Rafting, kayaking, hydrspeed, what better ways t experience the grandeur f the river Soča? On the waters themselves you can enjoy (and endure) a great little ad venture, with a team f friends in a raft, a grup f them in kayaks r gliding thrugh the turquise liquid crystal with little mre than a wetsuit. Qualified guides make sure the experience is safe, yet there shuld be n less sense f awe as yu rush acrss rapids, flat thrugh dark green pls, pass huge rcks and cheer your arrival at the finishing point (Trnovo (Trnovo ob Soči). A custmary, custmary, actually bligatry dip in n e f the brisk river’s eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Evening on the Soča ri ver, ver, photo by Dan Briški, Archive LTO Bvec 2012/13
41
40
Soča Valley
Soča Valley Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feel ing a little adventurus.
The Walk of Peace
By bus
Gregorčečeva 8, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 67/+386 (0)31 586 296,
[email protected], www. potmiru.si.The potmiru.si. The mst imprtant sights cnnected with the first world war in the Soča valley have been joined together on this trail since 2007. Divided into five secsec tins f varying difficu lty, it begins at Lg Pd Mangartm and ends at an utdr museum n Mengre hill near Most na Soči, spanning a total of over 80km. Needless t say, there are pssibilities t sleep at settlements alng the way, including at the sectin start/end pints and at a muntain hut n Kuhinja. Hikes t ther nearby muntains are easy t access, and indeed the Walk f Peace itself utilises mainly existing muntain and turist paths, itself being extra-marked.
There’s a direct bus from Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30 and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lts f internatinal links t and frm Ljubljana.
By bike Yu culd even rent a bike in Ljubljana (r use yur wn) and cycle the whole way (about 120km), if you’re a very keen adventurer r crazy, r bth!
What t See The Soča River The river Soča, all 136km of it, is an almst untuched piece f nature waiting t be discvered. discvered. At its surce in Trenta the pure clear alpine water springs frm a dark kars t crevic e, th en fl ws rapidl y twards the Adriatic sea, alng the way featuring such natural beauties as deep grges and graceful waterfalls. The bright turquoise colour of the Soča deserves a paragraph itself. Utterly awesme just abut begins t describe the thughts that cme t mind when gazing upn its splendur. The best time f year t experience its full impact is spring, when freshly melted alpine snw seeps int its tribu taries. Apparently the green-blue clur is retained even as far as Friuli, nrthern Italy - a testament t its pure alpine rigins. All manner f watersprts and river-based activities begin to thrive on an d around the Soča come springtime: kayak ing, rafting, hydrospeed and fly-fishing for the famous Soča trout. The mystique of the Soča is still held dear by the lcals wh live n its banks, representing an almst spiritual presence, undubtedly a symbl f natural per fectin.
Muntaineering n Kanin, pht by FA BoBo, Archive f LTo Bvec As Slvenia’s first Eurpean Destinatin f Excellence in 2008, expectations are bound to be high, the cuntry itself brimming with natural beauty and culture. As ne transcends the winding rad up frm Tlmin, r descends the southside of Vršič mountain pass, they becme mesmerised by flashes f turquise appearing at their side. Steal a glance r tw mre and yu realise it is an enchanting river, nne ther than the Soča. Along its banks, in its catchment area, several twns and numerus villages have lain since the Slavic tribes settled here in the 6th century, the ances trs f mdern day Slvenes, their luck untld. It is a beautiful valley, in the true sense f the wrd. Twering rcky muntains f Triglav Natinal Park, lush green fres t and that crys tall ine w ater n pur e whit e stn es. Breathtaking. It is nt ften said that we are in a glden age f travel. We Westerners at least, can affrd t travel almst anywhere in the wrld and there are indeed t many things t see in ne persn’s lifetime. Hwever, the ease f travel within Eurpe at the mment is bvius. Thus the accessibility and proximity of the Soča valley fr ma ny Eur pean s makes it s meth ing nt t miss . Fr thse wh can appreciate natural beauty, r enjy it thrugh utdr activities like hiking, muntain biking, fly fishing, whitewater rafting r paragliding, it’s perfectin. Its significance in mdern histry undubtedly draws visitrs t, the wrld wars having seen key frnt lines n this territry. The stries f war and the area’s heritage are tld thrugh excellent indr and utdr museums, muntain trails and histrical EDEN Slovenia
42
remains such as the medieval Kluže fortress, all linked by the Walk f Peace. Culturally speaking, the self-reliant Soča valley offers stne and sand art, wax and wl prducts, flklric sng and dance, and the cuisine, h the cuisine. Frm Tolmin and Bovec cheese to the native Soča trout, unique ‘čompe’ Bovec potatoes and sweet sweet Kob arid ‘štruklji’, there’s plenty t discver.
Arriving By car From Ljubljana take the A2 motorway north towards Jesen ice, exit there fr the main rad t Kranjska Gra. Turn left thrugh the centre then keep ging ut f the twn and over the Vršič mountain pass (1611m). After about 30km yu will see signs fr Trenta, then fr Bvec, just keep going along main road 206. From Trieste take the A4 north towards Udine, keep following Udine on the A23 north, then exit at Udine. Take the main rad west frm Udine tward Cividale Del Friuli, stay n this rad all the way t Kbarid (Slvenia). Then turn left fr Bvec at the far end f the twn. If yu dn’t have yur transprt, take a bus first t Ljubljan a.
By train Trains are quite tricky. The clsest they get t Bvec is Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From there yu culd take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih Žr tev 8, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 45,
[email protected], www.bovec.si.Qopen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30-17:00. During summer open every day 08:30-20:30.
TIC Kobarid Trg Svobode 16, tel. +386 (0)5 380
04 90, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, info.kobarid@ lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Q Open 09:0016:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00. During the summer open every day from 09:00-20:00.
TIC Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, tel. +386 (0)5 380 04
80/+386 (0)51 600 549, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83,
[email protected], www.visit-soca.com. Q open 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00. 09:00-13:00. During th e summer open every day 09:00-20:00.
Information Point TNP Dom Trenta Na Logu v
Trenti, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 30, dom-tnp.trenta@ tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si.
EDEN Soča Valley Tel. +386 (0)5 38 96 444, info@ dolina-soce.si, www.dolina-soce.si.
Bvec Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bvec is a real green piece f Eurpe, a must if yu really want t feel sLoVEnia!
Catchy fficial slgans aside, Slvenia’s supreme summer and winter sprts twn really ffers a lt. Lying in the magni ficent upper Soča valley in northwestern Slovenia, Bovec allows you t explre all the natural beauties f Triglav Natinal Park. The twn is a great base fr summer activity hlidays, hiking and muntain biking n land, paragliding frm the surrunding alpine peaks thrugh the air, r rafting and kayaking n the truly awesome turquoise waters of the river Soča. The area i s als extremely ppular during the winter ski seasn. The lifts t Kanin ski centre sit nly half a kilmetre frm the centre f Bvec, making it a ppular winter sprts destinatin as well.
What t See in Bvec The Soča Trail This marked hiking trail starts way up at
the surce f the said river dwn tward Bvec, winding wi th the emerald river and featuring several rpe bridges, per fect fr getting thse ‘‘i s this picture frm phtshp?’’ sh ts.
EDEN Slovenia
pls fllws the experience. Upwards f twenty a gencies in Bovec offer whitewater adventures on the Soča.
Fly Fishing on the Soča www.flyfishing.si. Fr
angling enthusiasts the river Soča should be some kind of Mecca, fly fishermen mandated t visit its waters at least nce in their lifetime. A haven fr trut, the nly kind f fishing allwed here is tha t f the fly. Be them dr y, wet, nymph r streamer, streamer, yu may put yur flies nly n barbless hks (just singles), but any kind f line and leader is fine. Th se are not the only strict rul es for fishing on the Soča, so one wuld be well advised t d their research in advance and have the required permits. Then get ut there and catch yurself sme dinner!
its kind in Slovenia, covers only 3% of the landmass, yet wha t a spectacular prprtin it is. Lcated in the suth-eastern sectin f the Alps, the Eastern Julian Alps stretch acrss much f nrth-western Slvenia, Slvenia, brdering Austria t the nr th and Italy t the west. The park’s breathtaking landscape, including jag ged peaks, expansive spruce frest, lush valleys and harmnius ecsystem has all been prtected since the Alpine Conservation Park was founded back in 1924. The centrepiece and inspirati n fr its name is Munt Triglav, Triglav, the highest in Slovenia (2864 metres). The mountain is the symbl f Slvenia (it appears in the cat f arms), and the country’s flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the day Slvenia declared independence frm Yugslavia. The name, Triglav, means three-headed, as i t lks t have three peaks when seen frm the Bhinj valley. The climb t the summit i s nt all that hard, but it is ln g. It’s a tw-day ascent t the tp, and requires an vernight stay in a muntain cabin. In shrt, it’s a special piece f nature, well wrth visiting.
Watersports on the Soča Rafting, kayaking, hydrspeed, what better ways t experience the grandeur f the river Soča? On the waters themselves you can enjoy (and endure) a great little ad venture, with a team f friends in a raft, a grup f them in kayaks r gliding thrugh the turquise liquid crystal with little mre than a wetsuit. Qualified guides make sure the experience is safe, yet there shuld be n less sense f awe as yu rush acrss rapids, flat thrugh dark green pls, pass huge rcks and cheer your arrival at the finishing point (Trnovo (Trnovo ob Soči). A custmary, custmary, actually bligatry dip in n e f the brisk river’s eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Evening on the Soča ri ver, ver, photo by Dan Briški, Archive LTO Bvec 2012/13
Soča Valley Sights alng the trail, which cnnects secluded spts via lder ftpaths, include the Alpine Btanical Garden Julijana, Trenta Museum, Great Soča Gorge. It makes for quite a full tur f the regin and ne which is very a ttractive t everyne except thse averse t any kind f walking.
is remembered with a small exhibition of the Soča front and other local battles. Find Kluže on the main road from Bovec t Lg Pd Mangartm and the Predel pass t Italy.
Krn Lake (Krnsko Jezero) At the end f th e Lepena Valley,
16km from Bovec, lies a gem of a lake that represents the treasure at the end f a tw t tw and a half hur trek. The basin at the bttm f Munt Krn is almst cmpletely filled with Krnsko jezero’s waters, at 400m lon g and 17m deep the largest Alpine lake. At an altitude of 1340m, you can admire serene sunsets frm its banks amidst the rck y Julian-Alpine peaks. The smaller shallwer Duplje lake is nearby, just abve it standing a newly built muntain ldge.
Boka Waterfall Acknwledged as ne f the mst spec-
tacular waterfalls in Slvenia, Bka is the enrmus threshld f waters descending frm the Kanin muntain range. As such, late spring happens t be the best time t visit: when the thick snow is melting, up to 100 tons of water per second falls first 106m freely, then a further 30m on an incline. It i s visible from a bridge on the Kobarid-Bovec road (near Žaga). A rather demanding ftpath frm the rad leads t the surce f the waterfall, which takes abut an hur and a half t reach.
Prestreljenik Window on Mt Kanin After alighting the huge Kanin cable car at the final stp, there’s a fair chance yu’ll be embaking upn a trek r hike f sme descriptin, shuld yu nt be here t hit the slpes fr winter sprts fun. Marked rutes frm the last statin n the cable car lead t the peak f Mt Kanin and the natural rck windw frmatin f ten by seven and a half metres. Stunning!
Great Soča Gorge (Velika Korita Soče) The river Soča never ceases to amaze: about 7km above Bovec (near the road to Trenta), the Great Soča gorge has been carved by the meandering tourquoise waters. Now 15metres deep and 750m long, you can go and look in awe at its jagged walls and clurful, ever-flwing alpine trrent.
Ravelnik Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
Accommodation Gostišče Andrejc Soča 31, tel. +386 (0)5 388
95 30/+386 (0)41 33 25 20, gostisce.andrejc@ siol.net, www.andrejc.eu. Ideally lcated fr thse wishing t be IN the thick f the utdrs, rather than merely n their drstep, this guest huse f srts lies between Mala Krita and Velika Krita (the small and large gorges) on the river Soča. In the village of Soča, in fact, Andr ejc can really sel l itsel f as a n excellen t base fr utdr activities, especiall y hiking t the Julian Alps (ntably fr Bavški Grintavec). The restaurant serves bth lcal and internatinal cuisine. TIRLBK
Hotel Mangart Bovec Mala vas 107, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)5 388 42 50, fax +386 (0)5 388 42 51,
[email protected], www.hotel-mangart.com. A medium-sized and luxurius residence set ut f the centre f Bvec, in the middle f the valley and surrunded by natural beauty. one f a cuple f htels named after muntains in the area, the Mangart ffers rms, family rms and suites within its traditinallly Alpine walls. It’s all very fresh, new , cnveniently lcated and accrdingl y ppular. Q 92 beds. THLKDWhhh
Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
Tasting Bvec’s famus cheese is a must, pht by Sam Vidič, Archive LTO Bovec
Ustanova “Fundacija Poti Miru v Posočju”
Triglav National Park Triglav Natinal Park, th e nly ne f
Soča Valley Tourist Information
388 99 00/+386 (0)41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@ siol.net, ww w.pristava-lepena.com. w.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. on arrival yu are greeted by the famus Lipice hrses and friendly muntain gats. Run as a htel and hrse-riding centre an d taking the frm f a typical alpine village, yu can find pretty much everything in this perfect blend f mdern and traditinal. There‘s even a sauna, fitness rm and cnference rm wi thin the beautiful lg cabins, all amid the spectacular muntainus scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69 per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
41
The Great Soča Gorge at Trenta, photo by Dan Briški, Archive LTo Bvec
Alpine Botanical Garden (Alpski Botanični Vrt)
Trenta Valley, tel. +386 (0)1 241 09 40, uprava@pms-lj. si, www2.pms-lj.si. Slvenia’s natural diversity in terms f flora has been presented here since 1926. Around the time of Alpine Cnservatin Park planning this beauti ful and peaceful place was set up, and allws yu t see Central Eurpean, Illyrian and sub-mediterranean, as well as Alpine flra all tgether. Even if yu dn’t really care abut the scientific details f what yu’re lking at, r if yu instantaneusly frget t he Latin name f th e sai d plan ts, i t s till makes a pleasant sheltered walk fr yung families r elderly visitrs t Slvenia’s Alpine regin.
Cycling Mangart and Bovec cheese-tasting The
highest muntain rad in Slvenia als happens t be ne f the mst scenic. Yu depart frm Lg Pd Mangartm and make yur way up twards the Predel pass (Italian brder), turning right for Mangart and winding up the steep final 11km. The beautiful scener y is a welcme distractin frm the slg, and shuld yu be riding in summer the numerus tunnels will bring sme welcme cl. The first r last stp will be the Mangart pasture fr cheese-tasting. Bvški sir (Bvec cheese) is a full flavured and slightly spicy sheep’s cheese, and the Bovec area boasts a rich heritage from the 14th century. In additin t the cheese f curse, anther reward fr yur effrts effrts is the vi ew f tw lakes frm the Magartsk Sedl (Mangart Saddle), but f curse the uphill cycling can als be at least a maschistic pleasure in itself.
Kluže Fortress (Trdnjava Kluže) Tel. +386 (0)5 38 86 758/+386 (0)51 361 070, trdnjavakluze@gmail. com, www.kluze.net. As hilltop fortifications go, Kluže is ne f Slvenia’s mst impressive. Set abve the Kritnica grge, it falls against a backdrp f the Julian Alps. As well as the immense natural virtue t be saked up there’s als the cultural; it is increasing serving as the regin’s centre fr scial, artistic and entertainment events. The first wrld war eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Lcated at a small hill dense with remnants f the first wrld war, this pen air museum’s aims are firmly fcussed n authenticity. Visitrs can als g n a guided tur led by a ‘‘WWI sldier’’ in full unifrm, drink military tea frm tin cups and traject a circular path running alng the nce AustrHungarian first line f defence, with trenches, tunnels, caves, pillbxes and recnstructed cabins.
Šunik Water Hurst (Šunikov Vodni Gaj) The water hurst at Šunik cmbines beautiful natural scenery: several cascades and pls with healing energy prperties, which are in abundance in the territry f Slvenia. The remains f an old mill, which still functioned well into the middle of the 20th century, adds a bit f ethnlgical in terest t the trail as well.
Mangart Saddle (Mangrtsko Sedlo) In additin t
being a cycling heaven, the highest muntain rad in Slvenia als affrds the visitr n ft abundant natural delights. The rck cmpsitin makes fr a large array f muntain flra. Walking thrugh the blssming slpes, yu may spt the friendly nati ve Marmt, if nt the tw pine-green lakes. The latter, alng with the high peak f Grssglckner n clear days, can be viewed frm the saddle itsel f. on yur way up a cheese-tasting at the Mangart pasture seems a great excuse fr a break, with the pprtuni ty t try the tp quality Bvec cheese courtesy of a cheese-making tradi tion 700 years old. Yur next prper break might well be the muntain hu t at the top, for some warm tea, cold beer or ‘hrana na žlico’ (food frm the spn, fr example gulash). gulash).
Performance 1313 in Kluže Fortress, photo by FA BoBo, FA BoBo, Archive LTo Bvec 2012/13
43
42
Soča Valley Tourist Information TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih Žr tev 8, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 45,
[email protected], www.bovec.si.Qopen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30-17:00. During summer open every day 08:30-20:30.
TIC Kobarid Trg Svobode 16, tel. +386 (0)5 380
04 90, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, info.kobarid@ lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Q Open 09:0016:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00. During the summer open every day from 09:00-20:00.
TIC Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, tel. +386 (0)5 380 04
80/+386 (0)51 600 549, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83,
[email protected], www.visit-soca.com. Q open 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00. 09:00-13:00. During th e summer open every day 09:00-20:00.
Information Point TNP Dom Trenta Na Logu v
Trenti, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 30, dom-tnp.trenta@ tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si.
EDEN Soča Valley Tel. +386 (0)5 38 96 444, info@ dolina-soce.si, www.dolina-soce.si.
Bvec Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bvec is a real green piece f Eurpe, a must if yu really want t feel sLoVEnia!
Catchy fficial slgans aside, Slvenia’s supreme summer and winter sprts twn really ffers a lt. Lying in the magni ficent upper Soča valley in northwestern Slovenia, Bovec allows you t explre all the natural beauties f Triglav Natinal Park. The twn is a great base fr summer activity hlidays, hiking and muntain biking n land, paragliding frm the surrunding alpine peaks thrugh the air, r rafting and kayaking n the truly awesome turquoise waters of the river Soča. The area i s als extremely ppular during the winter ski seasn. The lifts t Kanin ski centre sit nly half a kilmetre frm the centre f Bvec, making it a ppular winter sprts destinatin as well.
What t See in Bvec The Soča Trail This marked hiking trail starts way up at
the surce f the said river dwn tward Bvec, winding wi th the emerald river and featuring several rpe bridges, per fect fr getting thse ‘‘i s this picture frm phtshp?’’ sh ts.
Soča Valley Sights alng the trail, which cnnects secluded spts via lder ftpaths, include the Alpine Btanical Garden Julijana, Trenta Museum, Great Soča Gorge. It makes for quite a full tur f the regin and ne which is very a ttractive t everyne except thse averse t any kind f walking.
EDEN Slovenia
44
Krn Lake (Krnsko Jezero) At the end f th e Lepena Valley,
16km from Bovec, lies a gem of a lake that represents the treasure at the end f a tw t tw and a half hur trek. The basin at the bttm f Munt Krn is almst cmpletely filled with Krnsko jezero’s waters, at 400m lon g and 17m deep the largest Alpine lake. At an altitude of 1340m, you can admire serene sunsets frm its banks amidst the rck y Julian-Alpine peaks. The smaller shallwer Duplje lake is nearby, just abve it standing a newly built muntain ldge.
tacular waterfalls in Slvenia, Bka is the enrmus threshld f waters descending frm the Kanin muntain range. As such, late spring happens t be the best time t visit: when the thick snow is melting, up to 100 tons of water per second falls first 106m freely, then a further 30m on an incline. It i s visible from a bridge on the Kobarid-Bovec road (near Žaga). A rather demanding ftpath frm the rad leads t the surce f the waterfall, which takes abut an hur and a half t reach.
Prestreljenik Window on Mt Kanin After alighting the huge Kanin cable car at the final stp, there’s a fair chance yu’ll be embaking upn a trek r hike f sme descriptin, shuld yu nt be here t hit the slpes fr winter sprts fun. Marked rutes frm the last statin n the cable car lead t the peak f Mt Kanin and the natural rck windw frmatin f ten by seven and a half metres. Stunning!
Great Soča Gorge (Velika Korita Soče) The river Soča never ceases to amaze: about 7km above Bovec (near the road to Trenta), the Great Soča gorge has been carved by the meandering tourquoise waters. Now 15metres deep and 750m long, you can go and look in awe at its jagged walls and clurful, ever-flwing alpine trrent.
Ravelnik Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
Accommodation Gostišče Andrejc Soča 31, tel. +386 (0)5 388
Hotel Mangart Bovec Mala vas 107, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)5 388 42 50, fax +386 (0)5 388 42 51,
[email protected], www.hotel-mangart.com. A medium-sized and luxurius residence set ut f the centre f Bvec, in the middle f the valley and surrunded by natural beauty. one f a cuple f htels named after muntains in the area, the Mangart ffers rms, family rms and suites within its traditinallly Alpine walls. It’s all very fresh, new , cnveniently lcated and accrdingl y ppular. Q 92 beds. THLKDWhhh
Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
Tasting Bvec’s famus cheese is a must, pht by Sam Vidič, Archive LTO Bovec
is remembered with a small exhibition of the Soča front and other local battles. Find Kluže on the main road from Bovec t Lg Pd Mangartm and the Predel pass t Italy.
Boka Waterfall Acknwledged as ne f the mst spec-
95 30/+386 (0)41 33 25 20, gostisce.andrejc@ siol.net, www.andrejc.eu. Ideally lcated fr thse wishing t be IN the thick f the utdrs, rather than merely n their drstep, this guest huse f srts lies between Mala Krita and Velika Krita (the small and large gorges) on the river Soča. In the village of Soča, in fact, Andr ejc can really sel l itsel f as a n excellen t base fr utdr activities, especiall y hiking t the Julian Alps (ntably fr Bavški Grintavec). The restaurant serves bth lcal and internatinal cuisine. TIRLBK
388 99 00/+386 (0)41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@ siol.net, ww w.pristava-lepena.com. w.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. on arrival yu are greeted by the famus Lipice hrses and friendly muntain gats. Run as a htel and hrse-riding centre an d taking the frm f a typical alpine village, yu can find pretty much everything in this perfect blend f mdern and traditinal. There‘s even a sauna, fitness rm and cnference rm wi thin the beautiful lg cabins, all amid the spectacular muntainus scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69 per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
The Great Soča Gorge at Trenta, photo by Dan Briški, Archive LTo Bvec
Alpine Botanical Garden (Alpski Botanični Vrt)
Trenta Valley, tel. +386 (0)1 241 09 40, uprava@pms-lj. si, www2.pms-lj.si. Slvenia’s natural diversity in terms f flora has been presented here since 1926. Around the time of Alpine Cnservatin Park planning this beauti ful and peaceful place was set up, and allws yu t see Central Eurpean, Illyrian and sub-mediterranean, as well as Alpine flra all tgether. Even if yu dn’t really care abut the scientific details f what yu’re lking at, r if yu instantaneusly frget t he Latin name f th e sai d plan ts, i t s till makes a pleasant sheltered walk fr yung families r elderly visitrs t Slvenia’s Alpine regin.
Cycling Mangart and Bovec cheese-tasting The
highest muntain rad in Slvenia als happens t be ne f the mst scenic. Yu depart frm Lg Pd Mangartm and make yur way up twards the Predel pass (Italian brder), turning right for Mangart and winding up the steep final 11km. The beautiful scener y is a welcme distractin frm the slg, and shuld yu be riding in summer the numerus tunnels will bring sme welcme cl. The first r last stp will be the Mangart pasture fr cheese-tasting. Bvški sir (Bvec cheese) is a full flavured and slightly spicy sheep’s cheese, and the Bovec area boasts a rich heritage from the 14th century. In additin t the cheese f curse, anther reward fr yur effrts effrts is the vi ew f tw lakes frm the Magartsk Sedl (Mangart Saddle), but f curse the uphill cycling can als be at least a maschistic pleasure in itself.
Kluže Fortress (Trdnjava Kluže) Tel. +386 (0)5 38 86 758/+386 (0)51 361 070, trdnjavakluze@gmail. com, www.kluze.net. As hilltop fortifications go, Kluže is ne f Slvenia’s mst impressive. Set abve the Kritnica grge, it falls against a backdrp f the Julian Alps. As well as the immense natural virtue t be saked up there’s als the cultural; it is increasing serving as the regin’s centre fr scial, artistic and entertainment events. The first wrld war
Lcated at a small hill dense with remnants f the first wrld war, this pen air museum’s aims are firmly fcussed n authenticity. Visitrs can als g n a guided tur led by a ‘‘WWI sldier’’ in full unifrm, drink military tea frm tin cups and traject a circular path running alng the nce AustrHungarian first line f defence, with trenches, tunnels, caves, pillbxes and recnstructed cabins.
Šunik Water Hurst (Šunikov Vodni Gaj) The water hurst at Šunik cmbines beautiful natural scenery: several cascades and pls with healing energy prperties, which are in abundance in the territry f Slvenia. The remains f an old mill, which still functioned well into the middle of the 20th century, adds a bit f ethnlgical in terest t the trail as well.
Mangart Saddle (Mangrtsko Sedlo) In additin t
being a cycling heaven, the highest muntain rad in Slvenia als affrds the visitr n ft abundant natural delights. The rck cmpsitin makes fr a large array f muntain flra. Walking thrugh the blssming slpes, yu may spt the friendly nati ve Marmt, if nt the tw pine-green lakes. The latter, alng with the high peak f Grssglckner n clear days, can be viewed frm the saddle itsel f. on yur way up a cheese-tasting at the Mangart pasture seems a great excuse fr a break, with the pprtuni ty t try the tp quality Bvec cheese courtesy of a cheese-making tradi tion 700 years old. Yur next prper break might well be the muntain hu t at the top, for some warm tea, cold beer or ‘hrana na žlico’ (food frm the spn, fr example gulash). gulash).
Performance 1313 in Kluže Fortress, photo by FA BoBo, FA BoBo, Archive LTo Bvec
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Soča Valley
Soča Valley Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 24, tel. +386
Kanin Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched high abve Bvec, Kanin is Slvenia’s nly high altitude (i.e. over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest “winter’’ seasn, actually running all the way frm Nvember until well int spring and the May natinal hlidays. Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs, in 2009 Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea ski centre acrss the brder in Ital y, t make it Slvenia’s nly transnatinal resrt. With a gd range f slpes it will appeal t everyne frm cmplete beginners t advanced skiers and barders. If that’s nt enugh fr yu, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can als ski in a third cuntry fr tw days, at the Arnldstein centre in Austria. There are ff piste pprtunities at Kani n, but we wuldn’t recmmend this withut an experienced guide. The impsing peaks f the muntain range verlk Bovec and the truly magnificent Soča Valley, with its famous emerald river. The SočaValley waseven featured featured in a Hllywd blckbuster, The Chrnicles r Narnia. The panrama frm Kanin extends all the way frm the eastern Julian alps to Trieste, the mouth of the Soča River and the Adriatic sea, the prximity f which ensures a tangible mix between crisp alpine air and Mediterraneanlike warm breezes. In the spring this great cmbinatin really blssms, when yu can yu can ski in th e mrning, then sunbathe n the snw-beach, r trek in the warm lush valley in the afternn. It even makes skiing in a t-shirt a real pssibility! Summertime attracts hikers, climbers, paragliders and mountain bikers - the latter flocking to the 4.5km long and 600m high Kanin MTB park. There are also deep shafts fr cavers, the biggest f which, Vrtglavica Jama, has the longest vertical drop in the world (603m). Kanin is reached by way f a massive cable car, ascending from 436m to 2,200m above sea level it’s an adventure in itself, as yu can witness the vast change in flra and fauna in just a few minutes - it has t be seen t be believed.
Trenta Museum and Triglav National Park Information Center (Trentarski Muzej) Tel. +386 (0)5
388 93 30,
[email protected], www.tnp. si. The imprtant pint f reference fr thse hungry fr infrmatin abut Triglav Natinal Park. As the full name f the Trenta ldge suggests, this place presents the natural idisyncracies f the Julian Alps aswell as quaint ethnological and cultural heritage of th e T Trenta renta and Soča valleys. Set ver several flrs, the permanent exhibitin first f all cvers the envi rnment , gel gy an d hydrl gy f Triglav Natinal Park. The Trenta Valley ethnlgical cllectin is t be fund n the third flr, flr, shwcasing histry, dmestic culture and including a recnstructed t ypical lcal huse, nt t mentin Alpine dairy farm and sheep pasture. Despite its seemingly inaccessible lcatin (deep in the Trenta valley at Na Lgu), the museum has full disabled access (wheelchair access, tilets, lift). As with many rural attractins in Slvenia, special guided turs are pssible if arranged prir t arrival.
Sprts Agencies in Bvec Aktivni Planet & Zip Line Slovenia Trg Golobar skih
Žrtev 19, tel. +386 (0)40 639 433/+386 (0)31 653 417,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.aktivniplanet.si, www.ziplineslovenia.si.All www.ziplineslovenia.si. All kinds f river based watersprts, plus caving, ffrad turs. EDEN Slovenia
(0)5 388 60 27/+386 (0)41 473 620, gostilnasovdat@ gmail.com.If gmail.com. If yu want gd heart y Slvenian and Eurpean fd yu dn’t ha ve t walk far. Svdat - just within view f the main square in Bvec - is a typical Slvenian restaurant, simple and friendly. If yu can frgive the decratin utside (fake flwers and seaweed green cushins), the garden is a pleasant envirnment with a great muntain view. Fish, Wiener schnitzel and a variety f lcal dishes are all served here in big prtins. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu. (€4.80-16). JAB
The heavenly views frm Mt Kanin in the wintertime, pht by Danijel Žagar, Archive LTO Bovec
Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 388
60 32/+386 (0)31 26 36 32,
[email protected], www. bovec-sc.si. We like the pen and quite spiritual directr f this activity centre. He and his guides aim t ffer a deeper cnnectin and experience than that f the usual hst/client relatinship. A gd chice fr the inexperienced (and/ r terrified), they have just intrduced an easier-t-cntrl inflatable kayak to the Soča. Th ey tell us you can become at ne with nature, bth n water and n land. Rafting, kayaking, canyning, hydrspeed, hiking, muntainbiking, caving and winter packages are all available. An ffice is als lcated in Bka Pensin, between Kbarid and Bvec.
Hydromania Mala Vas 119, tel. +386 (0)31 80 80 75,
[email protected], www.hydromania.si. Watersprts on the river Soča, especially rafting, canyoning, kayak and hydrspeed, plus they als d paintball. Based in Bvec.
Soča Rafting Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 14, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)41 72 44 72/+386 (0)5 389 62 00, info@ socarafting.si, www.socarafting.si. one f the leading sprts and adventure agencies in the area and the ldest in Bovec, Soča Rafting offers activities directed by friendly lo cal guides and equipment rental. Th ey are pen every day, all year rund - unique, s th ey say. In summer they rganise rafting, canyning, kayaking, caving and muntain biking, and in winter ski lessns and curses and equipment rental. Everything is phtgraphed and available fr purchase at the end f the day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 16:00 - 18:00.
SocaRider Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 40, tel. +386 (0)41 596 104/+386 (0)41 859 941,
[email protected], www.socarider.com. Fcussing n rafting, kayak and canyoning, Soča rider offers offers trips especially for families, handpicking stretches f the river safe fr children as yung as three. Excursins are als ffered t natural jewels in the area such as Krn lake, B ka waterfall Tlminka grge and the source of the Soča.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386 (0)41 646 427,
[email protected], www.starikovac. com. Adreable are many a guest huse and restaurant in Slvenia, and here is an example with a charming rustic atmsphere. With an interir reflecting a Blacksmith’s heritage, typical lcal specialities such as ‘frika’ (eggs, cheese, ptates and bacn), internatinal dishes including sea fd and mixed grill are lvingly prepared. Gd quality pizzas are als served, having been baked in a wd fired ven. Self catering apartments are available, but t pass up the many gd culinary pprtuni ties in Bvec, nt least thse at Stari Kovač itself, is definitely a waste. JLBKW
guests, special functins are pssible in the pub part, and the pen surrundings f the htel building itself give unbstructed views f beautiful nature, making it attractive fr such events. The summertime sees the pening f a garden, the kids having the pssibility t let ff steam n the playgrund. Wrth a visit least nt fr the free wireless internet. PTALBKW
As ne wuld expect frm a small twn, it’s mstly restaurant based, with a cuple f bars and late cafes entertaining the lcals and visitrs until the wee hurs. Expect it t be much busier during ski seasn.
Kbarid
Jojo Bar Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 60 10/+386 (0)41
880 906,
[email protected], www.joffitours.com.Part www.joffitours.com. Part f the Jffiturs tur agency, wh rganise adventure sprts and accommodation in the Soča Valley, Valley, Jojo bar (pronounced ‘yoyo’ by Slvenes) ffers Illy cffee, sandwiches, warming drinks fr winter (including teas and ht chclate) and juices. Sprts events are screened inside, r ne can just enjy the aesthetic treat f the surrundings frm the Jj bar garden. Lcated dwn the street frm Bvec’s main main square, square, near theHtel Kanin. Kanin. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.
Pub Mangart Bovec Mala Vas 107, tel. +386 (0)5 388 42 50/+386 (0)40 291 751, info@hotel-mangart. com, www.hotel-mangart.com. www.hotel-mangart.com. on the grund flr f the Htel Mangart, the pub with the same namesake, the nearby Mt. Mangart, is a pleasant place t relax r indeed dine (als being a restaurant). With space fr up t ninety
Usually it’s the natural attractins that are prclaimed gems in the Soča valley, but Kobarid also goes some way to earn ing itself such a descriptin. In what is a csy and affable twn, yu can indulge in sme fine dining curtesy f a ‘Kbarid Gastrnmic Circle’ restaurant, r launch yurself int an active hliday (with pprtunities such as rafting, kayaking, hydrspeed, muntain biking, paragliding, hiking and hill walking, fly fishing). Here yu can learn abut a significant perid f mdern histry, the first wrld war. The award winning Kbarid Museum tells the stry f bldy battle, a stry recunted by Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms , having been a war correspondent at Soča. The Italianicised and Germanicised versins f the name (Caprett and Karfreit) cme frm perids f vilent assimilatin r annexatin, and in fact Kbarid was almst cmpletely destryed by the end f WWI. After being passed arund during the interwar years and falling under temprary military administratin after the secnd wrld war, the twn was finally returned t Slvene hands, under Yugoslavia at the time of course. From the 1960’s until the present day, Kbarid has been frequented by turists, nt nly because f its histrical heritage but als fr the natural beauties nearby, and there are ther charming villages in the area, fr example Vrsn and Krn, under the mighty Mt. Krn, frm which a cuple f ntable nble lcals cme (Simon Gregorčič, poet, and Simon Rutar, historian).
Golf Bovec
389 61 60/+386 (0)31 87 19 91, team@sportmix. si, www.sportmix.si. Full range f utdr activities and adrenaline sprts, specialised in river-based watersprts. Gift certificates a vailable, and they have a multilingual website with cmprehensive price-list.
Where t Eat in Bvec
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
open air museum Klvrat n the Walk f Peace in the Soča Valley, photo by Tamino Petelinšek, Archive Fundacija Pti Miru
Where t Drink in Bvec
Sport Mix Trg Golobarskih Žtrev 18, tel. +386 (0)5
A few gd quality eateries, yu can’t really g wrng with traditinal Slvenian gstilnas r pizzerias here. Just watch out for hidden supplements (€1-2) on the bill for bread and yur table.
43
The Alpine Btanical Garden in Trenta, pht by Tina Gerkman eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 38 22 29/+386 29/+386 (0)41 25 38 14,
[email protected], w ww. golfbovec.si.If golfbovec.si. If yu need t unwind a little after engaging in t many adrenaline charged adventure sprts, r yu’re just a secret glf addict, sneak ff here fr a sly rund. There’s a nine-hle curse and driving range, with five tee-ff psitins, all just a few kilmetres frm Bvec. Prices are quite reasnable fr Slvenia, especially given the setting, with weekday runds starting at €26 for 9 holes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
2012/13
45
44
Soča Valley
Soča Valley Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 24, tel. +386
Kanin Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched high abve Bvec, Kanin is Slvenia’s nly high altitude (i.e. over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest “winter’’ seasn, actually running all the way frm Nvember until well int spring and the May natinal hlidays. Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs, in 2009 Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea ski centre acrss the brder in Ital y, t make it Slvenia’s nly transnatinal resrt. With a gd range f slpes it will appeal t everyne frm cmplete beginners t advanced skiers and barders. If that’s nt enugh fr yu, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can als ski in a third cuntry fr tw days, at the Arnldstein centre in Austria. There are ff piste pprtunities at Kani n, but we wuldn’t recmmend this withut an experienced guide. The impsing peaks f the muntain range verlk Bovec and the truly magnificent Soča Valley, with its famous emerald river. The SočaValley waseven featured featured in a Hllywd blckbuster, The Chrnicles r Narnia. The panrama frm Kanin extends all the way frm the eastern Julian alps to Trieste, the mouth of the Soča River and the Adriatic sea, the prximity f which ensures a tangible mix between crisp alpine air and Mediterraneanlike warm breezes. In the spring this great cmbinatin really blssms, when yu can yu can ski in th e mrning, then sunbathe n the snw-beach, r trek in the warm lush valley in the afternn. It even makes skiing in a t-shirt a real pssibility! Summertime attracts hikers, climbers, paragliders and mountain bikers - the latter flocking to the 4.5km long and 600m high Kanin MTB park. There are also deep shafts fr cavers, the biggest f which, Vrtglavica Jama, has the longest vertical drop in the world (603m). Kanin is reached by way f a massive cable car, ascending from 436m to 2,200m above sea level it’s an adventure in itself, as yu can witness the vast change in flra and fauna in just a few minutes - it has t be seen t be believed.
Trenta Museum and Triglav National Park Information Center (Trentarski Muzej) Tel. +386 (0)5
388 93 30,
[email protected], www.tnp. si. The imprtant pint f reference fr thse hungry fr infrmatin abut Triglav Natinal Park. As the full name f the Trenta ldge suggests, this place presents the natural idisyncracies f the Julian Alps aswell as quaint ethnological and cultural heritage of th e T Trenta renta and Soča valleys. Set ver several flrs, the permanent exhibitin first f all cvers the envi rnment , gel gy an d hydrl gy f Triglav Natinal Park. The Trenta Valley ethnlgical cllectin is t be fund n the third flr, flr, shwcasing histry, dmestic culture and including a recnstructed t ypical lcal huse, nt t mentin Alpine dairy farm and sheep pasture. Despite its seemingly inaccessible lcatin (deep in the Trenta valley at Na Lgu), the museum has full disabled access (wheelchair access, tilets, lift). As with many rural attractins in Slvenia, special guided turs are pssible if arranged prir t arrival.
Sprts Agencies in Bvec Aktivni Planet & Zip Line Slovenia Trg Golobar skih
Žrtev 19, tel. +386 (0)40 639 433/+386 (0)31 653 417,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.aktivniplanet.si, www.ziplineslovenia.si.All www.ziplineslovenia.si. All kinds f river based watersprts, plus caving, ffrad turs. EDEN Slovenia
46
(0)5 388 60 27/+386 (0)41 473 620, gostilnasovdat@ gmail.com.If gmail.com. If yu want gd heart y Slvenian and Eurpean fd yu dn’t ha ve t walk far. Svdat - just within view f the main square in Bvec - is a typical Slvenian restaurant, simple and friendly. If yu can frgive the decratin utside (fake flwers and seaweed green cushins), the garden is a pleasant envirnment with a great muntain view. Fish, Wiener schnitzel and a variety f lcal dishes are all served here in big prtins. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu. (€4.80-16). JAB
The heavenly views frm Mt Kanin in the wintertime, pht by Danijel Žagar, Archive LTO Bovec
Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 388
60 32/+386 (0)31 26 36 32,
[email protected], www. bovec-sc.si. We like the pen and quite spiritual directr f this activity centre. He and his guides aim t ffer a deeper cnnectin and experience than that f the usual hst/client relatinship. A gd chice fr the inexperienced (and/ r terrified), they have just intrduced an easier-t-cntrl inflatable kayak to the Soča. Th ey tell us you can become at ne with nature, bth n water and n land. Rafting, kayaking, canyning, hydrspeed, hiking, muntainbiking, caving and winter packages are all available. An ffice is als lcated in Bka Pensin, between Kbarid and Bvec.
Hydromania Mala Vas 119, tel. +386 (0)31 80 80 75,
[email protected], www.hydromania.si. Watersprts on the river Soča, especially rafting, canyoning, kayak and hydrspeed, plus they als d paintball. Based in Bvec.
Soča Rafting Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 14, Bovec, tel.
+386 (0)41 72 44 72/+386 (0)5 389 62 00, info@ socarafting.si, www.socarafting.si. one f the leading sprts and adventure agencies in the area and the ldest in Bovec, Soča Rafting offers activities directed by friendly lo cal guides and equipment rental. Th ey are pen every day, all year rund - unique, s th ey say. In summer they rganise rafting, canyning, kayaking, caving and muntain biking, and in winter ski lessns and curses and equipment rental. Everything is phtgraphed and available fr purchase at the end f the day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 16:00 - 18:00.
SocaRider Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 40, tel. +386 (0)41 596 104/+386 (0)41 859 941,
[email protected], www.socarider.com. Fcussing n rafting, kayak and canyoning, Soča rider offers offers trips especially for families, handpicking stretches f the river safe fr children as yung as three. Excursins are als ffered t natural jewels in the area such as Krn lake, B ka waterfall Tlminka grge and the source of the Soča.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386 (0)41 646 427,
[email protected], www.starikovac. com. Adreable are many a guest huse and restaurant in Slvenia, and here is an example with a charming rustic atmsphere. With an interir reflecting a Blacksmith’s heritage, typical lcal specialities such as ‘frika’ (eggs, cheese, ptates and bacn), internatinal dishes including sea fd and mixed grill are lvingly prepared. Gd quality pizzas are als served, having been baked in a wd fired ven. Self catering apartments are available, but t pass up the many gd culinary pprtuni ties in Bvec, nt least thse at Stari Kovač itself, is definitely a waste. JLBKW
PTALBKW
As ne wuld expect frm a small twn, it’s mstly restaurant based, with a cuple f bars and late cafes entertaining the lcals and visitrs until the wee hurs. Expect it t be much busier during ski seasn.
Kbarid
Jojo Bar Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 60 10/+386 (0)41
880 906,
[email protected], www.joffitours.com.Part www.joffitours.com. Part f the Jffiturs tur agency, wh rganise adventure sprts and accommodation in the Soča Valley, Valley, Jojo bar (pronounced ‘yoyo’ by Slvenes) ffers Illy cffee, sandwiches, warming drinks fr winter (including teas and ht chclate) and juices. Sprts events are screened inside, r ne can just enjy the aesthetic treat f the surrundings frm the Jj bar garden. Lcated dwn the street frm Bvec’s main main square, square, near theHtel Kanin. Kanin. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.
Pub Mangart Bovec Mala Vas 107, tel. +386 (0)5 388 42 50/+386 (0)40 291 751, info@hotel-mangart. com, www.hotel-mangart.com. www.hotel-mangart.com. on the grund flr f the Htel Mangart, the pub with the same namesake, the nearby Mt. Mangart, is a pleasant place t relax r indeed dine (als being a restaurant). With space fr up t ninety
Usually it’s the natural attractins that are prclaimed gems in the Soča valley, but Kobarid also goes some way to earn ing itself such a descriptin. In what is a csy and affable twn, yu can indulge in sme fine dining curtesy f a ‘Kbarid Gastrnmic Circle’ restaurant, r launch yurself int an active hliday (with pprtunities such as rafting, kayaking, hydrspeed, muntain biking, paragliding, hiking and hill walking, fly fishing). Here yu can learn abut a significant perid f mdern histry, the first wrld war. The award winning Kbarid Museum tells the stry f bldy battle, a stry recunted by Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms , having been a war correspondent at Soča. The Italianicised and Germanicised versins f the name (Caprett and Karfreit) cme frm perids f vilent assimilatin r annexatin, and in fact Kbarid was almst cmpletely destryed by the end f WWI. After being passed arund during the interwar years and falling under temprary military administratin after the secnd wrld war, the twn was finally returned t Slvene hands, under Yugoslavia at the time of course. From the 1960’s until the present day, Kbarid has been frequented by turists, nt nly because f its histrical heritage but als fr the natural beauties nearby, and there are ther charming villages in the area, fr example Vrsn and Krn, under the mighty Mt. Krn, frm which a cuple f ntable nble lcals cme (Simon Gregorčič, poet, and Simon Rutar, historian).
Golf Bovec
389 61 60/+386 (0)31 87 19 91, team@sportmix. si, www.sportmix.si. Full range f utdr activities and adrenaline sprts, specialised in river-based watersprts. Gift certificates a vailable, and they have a multilingual website with cmprehensive price-list.
Where t Eat in Bvec
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
guests, special functins are pssible in the pub part, and the pen surrundings f the htel building itself give unbstructed views f beautiful nature, making it attractive fr such events. The summertime sees the pening f a garden, the kids having the pssibility t let ff steam n the playgrund. Wrth a visit least nt fr the free wireless internet.
Where t Drink in Bvec
Sport Mix Trg Golobarskih Žtrev 18, tel. +386 (0)5
A few gd quality eateries, yu can’t really g wrng with traditinal Slvenian gstilnas r pizzerias here. Just watch out for hidden supplements (€1-2) on the bill for bread and yur table.
open air museum Klvrat n the Walk f Peace in the Soča Valley, photo by Tamino Petelinšek, Archive Fundacija Pti Miru
The Alpine Btanical Garden in Trenta, pht by Tina Gerkman
Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 38 22 29/+386 29/+386 (0)41 25 38 14,
[email protected], w ww. golfbovec.si.If golfbovec.si. If yu need t unwind a little after engaging in t many adrenaline charged adventure sprts, r yu’re just a secret glf addict, sneak ff here fr a sly rund. There’s a nine-hle curse and driving range, with five tee-ff psitins, all just a few kilmetres frm Bvec. Prices are quite reasnable fr Slvenia, especially given the setting, with weekday runds starting at €26 for 9 holes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Soča Valley What t See in Kbarid Kobarid Museum (Kobariški Muzej) Gregorčičeva
10, tel. +386 (0)5 389 00 00/+386 (0)41 71 40 72, fax +386 (0)5 389 00 02,
[email protected], www.kobariski-muzej.si. With a wealth f infrmatin and an impressive audi-visual presentatin f the events f the first wrld war war Sška frnta (Isnz frnt), the cllectin here won an award for Best European Museum in 1993. Two and a half years f fighting and ne f the majr muntain ba ttles in history (the 12th Isonzo battle - or Caporetto breakthrough) are cvered, the srry stry tld with sensitivity. Perhaps the bloody Soča front is most known because of one Ernest Hemingway, whse nvel A Farewell to Arms remembered the man’s experiences n that very battl efield. The museum is lcated in the ld centre f Kbarid, and turs t the battlefield itself are als available by prir arrangement.
Kobarid Historical Trail Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 90,
fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91,
[email protected], www.visit-soca.com. Smething yu can d yurself, r be guided arund (recmmended), Kbarid’s histrical trail takes yu n a magical histrical tur thrugh sme f the area’s imprtant eras. Included in the places linked by the trail is the Kozjak waterfall, a 5km stretch taking you into ancient times, and a majr histrical perid - Wrld War one, in the Kbarid Museum. Taste the renwned lcal che ese, Tlminc, Tlminc, and learn abut the pastures and cheese-making traditins here, then buy sm e t take hme f curse. Set aside three t five hurs fr the tur.
Kozjak Waterfalls Kzjak brk cmprises six waterfalls, originating at Mt Krnčica (2142m) and serving as a tributary to the Soča ri ver. ver. Veliki Kozjak is the largest and most impressive f the said waterfalls, representing ne f the mst picturesque in Slvenia. Anther highlight is the vast undergrund hall and pristine pl, the latter we presume is very cld (we didn’t swim): both are 250m lower than Veliki Kozjak. To reach the falls head towards Drežnica from Kobarid, there’s a turnoff just after Naplen bridge.
Soča Valley Kolovrat Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
one f a cuple f pen air museums dedicated t the first wrld war, war, Klvrat was strategically imprtan t fr the I talians, frming its army’s third line f defence, r ‘linea d’armata’. Psitioned on a ridge bet ween Slovenia’s Upper Soča and Italy’s Venet regins, Klvrat features a lkut and favurable panramic views. Reach the site by heading twards Tlmin frm Kbarid, Kbarid, turning t Livek village village near Idrsk, then Livške Ravne, or take the ri ght turn approximately 2km before Tolmin.
Sprts Agencies in Kbarid Tandem Jump from Stol of curse yu wn’t be seated fr this attractin, ntwithstanding the muntain’s muntain’s name: Stl (Chair). In fact yu’ll be saring thrug h the air, smetimes fr a gd while. Abve the slpes f Julian Alps, yur view will include the Adriatic sea t the suth and th e prminant Central Alps t the nrth. The tandem jump is the i deal first paragliding experience, and there’s nwhere we’d rather take that plunge, r rather flight (hpefully) in Slvenia than in this valley. X Point Trg Svobode 6, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 53 08/+386 (0)5 388 53 08, 08,
[email protected], ww w.xpoint. si. Being established over 15 years means that Kobarid’s main utdr activity agency are fully cnnected when it cmes t arranging yur rafting, canyning, hydrspeed, cane, miniraft, kayaking, tandem paragliding, muntain biking, walking r climbing. Indeed, n yur sprting trips r teambuilding exercises (als pssible) yu can be accmpanied by highly experienced guides. All f the abve are f curse the agency’s summer activies, as are picnics by the river, but in the winter they up sticks t Bvec fr the ski seasn, dealing primarily in ski renting, service and als a ski/ snwbard schl.
Where t Eat in Kbarid Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389
EDEN Slovenia
The Memrial Church f the Hly Spirit at Javrca, pht Jank Humar the expensive side but fr gd reasn; c d platter, shellfish and lbster here are all memrable and exceptinally fresh. The waiting staff are attentive, reflecting their pride at being a member f the Kbarid Gastrnmic Circle. A pleasant terrace is perfect fr the warm summer mnths, and the Hotel Hvala is attached shuld yu wish t prlng yur stay. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AUB
Tlmin
41 20, fax +386 (0)5 389 41 29,
[email protected], www.hisafranko.com. Rundly regarded by gurmands, amateur fdies, turists and lcals alike as ne f best restaurants in the cuntry, it’s nt uncmmn fr diners t make the trip t Slvenia fr the express purpse f eating here - especially fr neighburing Italians, wh can appreciate tp quality cuisine like few thers. Run by a husban d and wife team, Ana is in charge f the kitchen, while Valter’s knwledge f Slvenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled. Set in a rustic villa utside the twn f Kbarid in the far west f the cuntr y, a meal here will nt sn be frgtten. Rms are als a vailable. Q Open Wed-Sun 12:00-15:00 (last orders at 12:30) and 19:00-23:00 (last orders at 22:00), and Tues evening in the summer. Clsed Mn an d T Tues. ues. PALBW
The mst famus time f year in Tlmin is festival seasn, when fr a cuple f weeks in Jul y and August the city, actually mre like a twn r village, is given up t thusands f revellers. Metalcamp is held n the banks f the magnificent turquoise Soča, a true (hedonistic) paradise at that time of year. Hwever, Hwever, they are by n means the nly reasn peple cme t Tlmin, the cultural and administrative centre f the region. Lying in the awesome Soča Valley, it is a great place t start yur sprts/adventure hliday as everything frm rafting, kayaking, muntain biking, hiking and paragliding i s all within easy reach. Tlmin is als culturally ri ch, and amng ther events, every September an annual festival sees teams cmpete t lvingly prepare the best ‘Frika’, a traditinal dish f ptates and l cally-made Tlminc Tlminc cheese.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, Kobarid, tel.
What t See in Tlmin
+386 (0)5 389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.
[email protected], www.kotlar.si.A www.kotlar.si. A hint f the sea is t be fund in the Alps, specifically at Ktlar in the centre f Kbarid. A restaurant in the cnventinal sense f the wrd, there’s an elegant ambience that’s best enjyed after dark. Fr dinner, whether it be rmantic r celebratry in essence, the specialities include a mixed seafd entree, karst ham with mushrms, grilled crab and f curse the lcal delicacy, Kbarid ‘štruklji’. After dinner sme immediate relaxatin may be in rder; rms with breakfast are available, as is a Turkish sauna/slarium. sauna/slarium. one f Slvenia’s best restaurants.PJA
The s-called Bear’s Head f the Tlmin Grges, pht by Matevž Lenarčič
45
Restavracija Topli Val Trg Svobode 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93 00,
[email protected], www.hotelhvala.si.Essential vala.si. Essential dining fr thse wh l ve their fish, the Tpli Val is ne f the finest seafd restaurants in the cuntr y. on eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Tolmin Gorges (Tolminska Korita) Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 80, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83, in fo@lto-sotocje. si, www.visit-soca.com. www.visit-soca.com. The spleandur f a thermal spring and cnfluence f tw turquise rivers, nt t mentin much mre, have been arranged fr yur average nn-hiking type in the frm f a ‘secured’ circular trail. Althugh the pat h als takes you over the 60m Devil’s Bridge, we are assured the attractin is ideal fr families. Perhaps it is indeed especially gd fr yung bys with adventure in mind. Als watch ut fr Dante’s Cave (shelter fr t he famus Italian pet Dante Alighieri) and the rck in the shape f a bear’s head. Q The starting pint (parking area) can be reached frm Tlmin via Zatolmin by car or on foot (2 km). The gorge is open from April-November. Admission is €4 for adults with discounts fr children, pensiners, students and grups. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit in Javorca A wden church and shrine the Austr-Hungarian Austr-Hungarian sldiers lst in the first wrld war n the Tlmin battlefield, Javrca is perched abve the Tlminka stream. It als happens t be the finest WWI mnument in all f Slvenia, having been bequethed with the European Cultural Heritage sign in 2007. There’s that ever present Slvene scene-scape t be admired if nthing else, green hill plus church plus rcky muntain backdrp; we persnally can’t get enugh.
Where t Eat in Tlmin Tlmin Gostilna Skrt Most na Soči 62, Most na Soči, tel. +386
(0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989, rajko.skrt@gmail. com, www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt.Smething www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt. Smething f a pillar f the cmmunity, Skrt (the surname f the prprietr) sits above the Soča/Idrijca confluence in the lovely village of Most Na Soči. In summer you may well find a throng of locals enjying a drink n the terrace, but in all seasns gd ld Slvene hspitality can be enjyed here. The interir is simple and rustic, maintianed with care. Serving breakfast thrugh dinner, a standard array f Slvene and Eurpean dishes (including vegetarian ptins, and pancakes!) are prepared with lve and accmpanied by Brda wines. Lcated in the heart f the village, by the hand-painted sign and street map. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. JAB
Italian Charnel House near Kobarid, photo by Željko Cimprič, Archive Fundacija Pti Miru 2012/13
47
46
Soča Valley What t See in Kbarid Kobarid Museum (Kobariški Muzej) Gregorčičeva
10, tel. +386 (0)5 389 00 00/+386 (0)41 71 40 72, fax +386 (0)5 389 00 02,
[email protected], www.kobariski-muzej.si. With a wealth f infrmatin and an impressive audi-visual presentatin f the events f the first wrld war war Sška frnta (Isnz frnt), the cllectin here won an award for Best European Museum in 1993. Two and a half years f fighting and ne f the majr muntain ba ttles in history (the 12th Isonzo battle - or Caporetto breakthrough) are cvered, the srry stry tld with sensitivity. Perhaps the bloody Soča front is most known because of one Ernest Hemingway, whse nvel A Farewell to Arms remembered the man’s experiences n that very battl efield. The museum is lcated in the ld centre f Kbarid, and turs t the battlefield itself are als available by prir arrangement.
Kobarid Historical Trail Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 90,
fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91,
[email protected], www.visit-soca.com. Smething yu can d yurself, r be guided arund (recmmended), Kbarid’s histrical trail takes yu n a magical histrical tur thrugh sme f the area’s imprtant eras. Included in the places linked by the trail is the Kozjak waterfall, a 5km stretch taking you into ancient times, and a majr histrical perid - Wrld War one, in the Kbarid Museum. Taste the renwned lcal che ese, Tlminc, Tlminc, and learn abut the pastures and cheese-making traditins here, then buy sm e t take hme f curse. Set aside three t five hurs fr the tur.
Kozjak Waterfalls Kzjak brk cmprises six waterfalls, originating at Mt Krnčica (2142m) and serving as a tributary to the Soča ri ver. ver. Veliki Kozjak is the largest and most impressive f the said waterfalls, representing ne f the mst picturesque in Slvenia. Anther highlight is the vast undergrund hall and pristine pl, the latter we presume is very cld (we didn’t swim): both are 250m lower than Veliki Kozjak. To reach the falls head towards Drežnica from Kobarid, there’s a turnoff just after Naplen bridge.
Soča Valley Kolovrat Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
one f a cuple f pen air museums dedicated t the first wrld war, war, Klvrat was strategically imprtan t fr the I talians, frming its army’s third line f defence, r ‘linea d’armata’. Psitioned on a ridge bet ween Slovenia’s Upper Soča and Italy’s Venet regins, Klvrat features a lkut and favurable panramic views. Reach the site by heading twards Tlmin frm Kbarid, Kbarid, turning t Livek village village near Idrsk, then Livške Ravne, or take the ri ght turn approximately 2km before Tolmin.
Sprts Agencies in Kbarid Tandem Jump from Stol of curse yu wn’t be seated fr this attractin, ntwithstanding the muntain’s muntain’s name: Stl (Chair). In fact yu’ll be saring thrug h the air, smetimes fr a gd while. Abve the slpes f Julian Alps, yur view will include the Adriatic sea t the suth and th e prminant Central Alps t the nrth. The tandem jump is the i deal first paragliding experience, and there’s nwhere we’d rather take that plunge, r rather flight (hpefully) in Slvenia than in this valley. X Point Trg Svobode 6, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 53 08/+386 (0)5 388 53 08, 08,
[email protected], ww w.xpoint. si. Being established over 15 years means that Kobarid’s main utdr activity agency are fully cnnected when it cmes t arranging yur rafting, canyning, hydrspeed, cane, miniraft, kayaking, tandem paragliding, muntain biking, walking r climbing. Indeed, n yur sprting trips r teambuilding exercises (als pssible) yu can be accmpanied by highly experienced guides. All f the abve are f curse the agency’s summer activies, as are picnics by the river, but in the winter they up sticks t Bvec fr the ski seasn, dealing primarily in ski renting, service and als a ski/ snwbard schl.
Where t Eat in Kbarid Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389
the expensive side but fr gd reasn; c d platter, shellfish and lbster here are all memrable and exceptinally fresh. The waiting staff are attentive, reflecting their pride at being a member f the Kbarid Gastrnmic Circle. A pleasant terrace is perfect fr the warm summer mnths, and the Hotel Hvala is attached shuld yu wish t prlng yur stay. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AUB
Tlmin The mst famus time f year in Tlmin is festival seasn, when fr a cuple f weeks in Jul y and August the city, actually mre like a twn r village, is given up t thusands f revellers. Metalcamp is held n the banks f the magnificent turquoise Soča, a true (hedonistic) paradise at that time of year. Hwever, Hwever, they are by n means the nly reasn peple cme t Tlmin, the cultural and administrative centre f the region. Lying in the awesome Soča Valley, it is a great place t start yur sprts/adventure hliday as everything frm rafting, kayaking, muntain biking, hiking and paragliding i s all within easy reach. Tlmin is als culturally ri ch, and amng ther events, every September an annual festival sees teams cmpete t lvingly prepare the best ‘Frika’, a traditinal dish f ptates and l cally-made Tlminc Tlminc cheese.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, Kobarid, tel.
What t See in Tlmin
Restavracija Topli Val Trg Svobode 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93 00,
[email protected], www.hotelhvala.si.Essential vala.si. Essential dining fr thse wh l ve their fish, the Tpli Val is ne f the finest seafd restaurants in the cuntr y. on eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN Slovenia
48
The Memrial Church f the Hly Spirit at Javrca, pht Jank Humar
41 20, fax +386 (0)5 389 41 29,
[email protected], www.hisafranko.com. Rundly regarded by gurmands, amateur fdies, turists and lcals alike as ne f best restaurants in the cuntry, it’s nt uncmmn fr diners t make the trip t Slvenia fr the express purpse f eating here - especially fr neighburing Italians, wh can appreciate tp quality cuisine like few thers. Run by a husban d and wife team, Ana is in charge f the kitchen, while Valter’s knwledge f Slvenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled. Set in a rustic villa utside the twn f Kbarid in the far west f the cuntr y, a meal here will nt sn be frgtten. Rms are als a vailable. Q Open Wed-Sun 12:00-15:00 (last orders at 12:30) and 19:00-23:00 (last orders at 22:00), and Tues evening in the summer. Clsed Mn an d T Tues. ues. PALBW +386 (0)5 389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.
[email protected], www.kotlar.si.A www.kotlar.si. A hint f the sea is t be fund in the Alps, specifically at Ktlar in the centre f Kbarid. A restaurant in the cnventinal sense f the wrd, there’s an elegant ambience that’s best enjyed after dark. Fr dinner, whether it be rmantic r celebratry in essence, the specialities include a mixed seafd entree, karst ham with mushrms, grilled crab and f curse the lcal delicacy, Kbarid ‘štruklji’. After dinner sme immediate relaxatin may be in rder; rms with breakfast are available, as is a Turkish sauna/slarium. sauna/slarium. one f Slvenia’s best restaurants.PJA
The s-called Bear’s Head f the Tlmin Grges, pht by Matevž Lenarčič
Tolmin Gorges (Tolminska Korita) Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 80, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83, in fo@lto-sotocje. si, www.visit-soca.com. www.visit-soca.com. The spleandur f a thermal spring and cnfluence f tw turquise rivers, nt t mentin much mre, have been arranged fr yur average nn-hiking type in the frm f a ‘secured’ circular trail. Althugh the pat h als takes you over the 60m Devil’s Bridge, we are assured the attractin is ideal fr families. Perhaps it is indeed especially gd fr yung bys with adventure in mind. Als watch ut fr Dante’s Cave (shelter fr t he famus Italian pet Dante Alighieri) and the rck in the shape f a bear’s head. Q The starting pint (parking area) can be reached frm Tlmin via Zatolmin by car or on foot (2 km). The gorge is open from April-November. Admission is €4 for adults with discounts fr children, pensiners, students and grups.
Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit in Javorca A wden church and shrine the Austr-Hungarian Austr-Hungarian sldiers lst in the first wrld war n the Tlmin battlefield, Javrca is perched abve the Tlminka stream. It als happens t be the finest WWI mnument in all f Slvenia, having been bequethed with the European Cultural Heritage sign in 2007. There’s that ever present Slvene scene-scape t be admired if nthing else, green hill plus church plus rcky muntain backdrp; we persnally can’t get enugh.
Where t Eat in Tlmin Tlmin Gostilna Skrt Most na Soči 62, Most na Soči, tel. +386
(0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989, rajko.skrt@gmail. com, www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt.Smething www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt. Smething f a pillar f the cmmunity, Skrt (the surname f the prprietr) sits above the Soča/Idrijca confluence in the lovely village of Most Na Soči. In summer you may well find a throng of locals enjying a drink n the terrace, but in all seasns gd ld Slvene hspitality can be enjyed here. The interir is simple and rustic, maintianed with care. Serving breakfast thrugh dinner, a standard array f Slvene and Eurpean dishes (including vegetarian ptins, and pancakes!) are prepared with lve and accmpanied by Brda wines. Lcated in the heart f the village, by the hand-painted sign and street map. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. JAB
Italian Charnel House near Kobarid, photo by Željko Cimprič, Archive Fundacija Pti Miru
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
Soča Valley Where t Sleep Bvec Htels
Soča Valley Apartma Rozi Brdo 40, tel. +386 (0)41 21 93 45, rozi.
[email protected]. Q 15 beds.
Počitniška Hišica Na Biru Gabrje 10, tel. +386 (0)51
310 365,
[email protected], www.nabiru. si. Q 6 beds.
Domačija Škvor Robidišče 10, Breginj, tel. +386 (0)31 345 958,
[email protected],
[email protected], robidisce.blogspot. com. Q 21 beds.
Počitniška Hiška Tinca Most na Soči 62, Most na
Počitniška Hiša Ivančič Drežniške Ravne 30b, tel. Žonir Staro Selo 57, tel. +386 (0)5 389 30 20/+386 (0)41 686997,
[email protected],
[email protected], users.volja.net/zonir57. users.volja.net/zonir57.Q6 beds.
Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 48, tel. +386 (0)5 388
Apartment DanaKot 33, tel. +386 (0)41 23 43 87,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.apartmadana.com.Q 15 beds.
PJHAULBKDC hhh
D-D Čezsoča 63, tel. +386 (0)41 74 78 40, darinkavs@ gmail.com, www.apartma-dd.si. Q 3 beds.
Soči, tel. +386 (0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989,
[email protected] [email protected],, www.facebook.com/tinca. www.facebook.com/tinca. mostnasoci. Q 6 beds.
Ktrenč Mala Vas 53, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 88/+386
Privatne Sobe Černilogar Brunov Drevored 34, tel.
40 00,
[email protected], www.alp-hotel.si.Q 218 beds.
Hotel Sanje ob Soči Mala Vas 105a, tel. +386 (0)5 389
60 00/+386 (0)31 303 131, valentina@sanjeobsoci. com, www.sanjeobsoci.com. Q 55 beds.
Guest Huse Martinov Hram Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 27, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62 14, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 69, sara.bergi nc@ gmail.com, www.martinov-hram.si. Q 28 beds.
Apartments Alpha center Dvor 41a, tel./fax +386 (0)5 389 60 16,
(0)41 57 93 56,
[email protected], www.bovec. net/apartmajiktrenc. Q 10 beds.
+386 (0)5 388 14 03/+386 (0)31 607 234,
[email protected]. Q 6 beds.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386
Camps
(0)41 64 64 27,
[email protected],
[email protected], w ww.starikovac. com. Q 24 beds.
Camping Kamp Polovnik Ledina 8, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 389
Turist Farms Jelenov Breg Pod Matajurjem Avsa 22, tel. +386
Turistična Kmetija Pri Kafolu Prapetno 15, tel. +386
Apartmaji Bovška Hiša Kot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 388 60
Kamp Soča Soča 8, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 18/+386
Where t Sle ep Kbarid
32/+386 (0)31 263 632,
[email protected], www. bovec-sc.si. Q 6+2 beds. JW
(0)31 82 44 86,
[email protected]. Q Camping €6 per person, apartments €50. TLBDW
Apartmaji JOJO Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64
Pension and Camp Klin Lepena 1, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
Hotel Hvala Trg Svobode 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93
Apartmaji Komac Klanc 10, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62
Where t Sleep Tlmin
Guesthuses
07/+386 (0)41 91 02 80,
[email protected], www. apartmaji.komac.si. Q10 beds.
Apartments
Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.hisafranko.com.Q 26 beds.
Apartmaji Makuc Klanc 15, tel. +386 (0)5 388 67 80/+386 (0)41 66 32 73,
[email protected], www. apartmaji-makuc.si. Q 5 + 2 beds.
386,
[email protected], mengore.com. Q 16 beds.
Apartmaji Mavrič Majda Dvor 61, tel. +386 (0)5 303 52 25/+386 (0)40 55 98 82,
[email protected], www.apartments-mavric.com. Q 8 beds.
Apartmaji Mrakič Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)41
Apartmajska Hiša Blazar Volarje 48a, tel. +386 (0)31 529 946,
[email protected], www.blazar.si. Q 14 beds.
Apartma Kavčič Poljubinj 24m, tel. +386 (0)5 381
17 33/+386 (0)41 692 299,
[email protected], www.apartma-kavcic.si. Q 12 beds.
32 91 74,
[email protected], www.mrakic.net. Q 6 apartments €50-130, 30% more for stays of less than 3 nights. PJALW 00/+386 (0)41 32 86 29, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 01,
[email protected], www.apar tmajiskok.com. tmajiskok.com. Q 22 beds. 06/+386 (0)31 70 61 11, fax +386 (0)5 896 20 7,
[email protected]. Q 18 beds.
46 20,
[email protected], www.nebesa.si. Q 8 beds.
Picerija Fedrig Volaričeva 11, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 Q
Stergulc House Tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44, info@
389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.restavracija@ siol.net, www.kotlar.si. Q 15 beds.
tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 8/+386 (0)41 332 668, kmeti ja@ robidisce.si, www.robidisce.si. Q 7 beds.
Directory Društvo za prosto letenje POSOČJE Dijaška 12c, Tolmin, tel. (+386) 41 966 367, kobala.info@ gmail.com, www.kobala.si.
Ustanova “Fundacija Poti miru v Posočju” Gregorčečeva ulica 8, Kobarid, tel. (+386) 53 89 01 67/ (+386) 31 586 296,
[email protected], www.potmiru.si.
Casin Igralniško-Zabaviščni Igralniško-Z abaviščni Center Aurora Staro Selo 60a, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 45 00, info.aurora@ hit.si, www.aurora-hitstars.si.
Sprts Agencies
Apartments
641 899, info@a2rafting, www.a2rafting.eu.
Apartma Berginc Drežniške Ravne 42, tel. +386 (0)5
Agencija Metulj Cankarjeva 8, Tolmin, tel. +386
Apartma pri Koptanhu Drežnica 45, tel. +386 (0)5
Alpin Action Trnovo ob Soči 26a, Kobarid, tel. +386
Apartma-RaGregorčiče va 6c, tel. +386 (0)41 641 899,
Transprt
Apartma Šavli Magozd 5a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 37
Jojo Prevozi Dvor 5, tel. +386 (0)41 880 906,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.jojo-prevozi.com. www.jojo-prevozi.com.
07/+386 (0)41 421 007,
[email protected], www. apartmasavli.com. Q6 beds.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
384 85 62/+386 (0)41 946 088, inf o@turizem-kranjc. si, www.turizem-kranjc.si. Q 20 beds.
36/+386 (0)41 494 565,
[email protected], users.volja.net/lowriz. Q 11 beds.
[email protected], www.a2rafting.eu. Q21 beds.
Rafting on the Soča river, photo by Andraž Krpič, Archive LTo Bvec
Turistična Kmetija Kranjc Koseč 7, tel. +386 (0)5
15 beds.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, tel. +386 (0)5
384 85 05/+386 (0)31 599 480, apartma.koptanh@ gmail.com, www.apartmaji-dreznica.com. Q 4 beds.
Conference Centres
EDEN Slovenia
Nebesa Turistične Hiše Livek 39, tel. +386 (0)5 384
389 37 08/+386 (0)31 370 133, berginc.bogdan@ yahoo.com, www.apartma-berginc.si. Q 10 beds.
Apartmaji Tajčr Brdo 44, tel. +386 (0)5 389 62
bovec.si, www.bovec.si. Run by the Bvec turist bard, this antiquated burgeis residence is a gd alternative ptin fr cnferences, seminars r weddings. Whilst there are mdern additins t ensure ne’s cmfrt, specifically a lift, bar and tw cnference rms (70 or 100 delegates), the house is packed with old stries which yu can pur ver in the museum.
00,
[email protected], www.hotelhvala.si. Q 61 beds.
15/+386 (0)31 249 147,
[email protected].
(0)41 494 560,
[email protected], www. jelenov-breg-pod-matajurjem.si. Q 6 beds.
Turistična Kmetija Robidišče Robidišče 3, Breginj,
Htels
Sobe pri Lovrižu Drežnica 22, tel. +386 (0)5 384 86
Apartmaji Skok Mala Vas 111, tel. +386 (0)5 389 63
13 11,
[email protected], www.kamp-koren.si.
Turist Farms (0)41 618 698,
[email protected], www.prikafolu. com. Q 20 beds.
Apartmaji Mengore Volče 140b, tel. +386 (0)41 427
Camps
[email protected], www.camp-gabrje.com.
tel. +386 (0)31 33 52 35,
[email protected], www. apartmaji-alpha.si. Q 4 + 4 beds.
388 95 13,
[email protected]. ABKD
+386 (0)5 384 86 40/+386 (0)41 337 403, apartmaji.
[email protected], www.apartmaji-ivancic.si.Q 10 beds.
Kamp Koren Drežniške Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389
Camp Gabrje Volarje 57, tel. +386 (0)40 153 490,
60 07/+386 (0)31 34 44 17,
[email protected], www.kamp-polovnik.com.Q €5.25-8/person, tents €1-2, r caravans €3. A
70/+386 (0)41 88 09 06, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 71,
[email protected], www.joffitours.com. Q 12 beds.
47
Chalet Kamp Koren Kobarid Drežniške Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389 13 11/+386 (0)41 371 229, info@ kamp-koren.si, www.kamp-koren.si. Q 36 beds. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
A2rafting Volaričeva 15, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)41 (0)5 381 00 10/+386 (0)51 411 944, metulj@siol. net, www.agencija-metulj.com.
(0)5 384 55 04/+386 (0)41 708 132, alpin.action@ siol.net, www.sloveniarafting.si.
Turist Agencies Ta Tmin Tours Trg 1. Maja 8, Tolmin, tel. +386 (0)5
381 19 93,
[email protected], www.tmintours.si.
2012/13
49
48
Soča Valley Where t Sleep Bvec Htels
Soča Valley Apartma Rozi Brdo 40, tel. +386 (0)41 21 93 45, rozi.
[email protected]. Q 15 beds.
Počitniška Hišica Na Biru Gabrje 10, tel. +386 (0)51
310 365,
[email protected], www.nabiru. si. Q 6 beds.
Domačija Škvor Robidišče 10, Breginj, tel. +386 (0)31 345 958,
[email protected],
[email protected], robidisce.blogspot. com. Q 21 beds.
Počitniška Hiška Tinca Most na Soči 62, Most na
Počitniška Hiša Ivančič Drežniške Ravne 30b, tel. Žonir Staro Selo 57, tel. +386 (0)5 389 30 20/+386 (0)41 686997,
[email protected],
[email protected], users.volja.net/zonir57. users.volja.net/zonir57.Q6 beds.
Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 48, tel. +386 (0)5 388
Apartment DanaKot 33, tel. +386 (0)41 23 43 87,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.apartmadana.com.Q 15 beds.
PJHAULBKDC hhh
D-D Čezsoča 63, tel. +386 (0)41 74 78 40, darinkavs@ gmail.com, www.apartma-dd.si. Q 3 beds.
Soči, tel. +386 (0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989,
[email protected] [email protected],, www.facebook.com/tinca. www.facebook.com/tinca. mostnasoci. Q 6 beds.
Ktrenč Mala Vas 53, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 88/+386
Privatne Sobe Černilogar Brunov Drevored 34, tel.
40 00,
[email protected], www.alp-hotel.si.Q 218 beds.
Hotel Sanje ob Soči Mala Vas 105a, tel. +386 (0)5 389
60 00/+386 (0)31 303 131, valentina@sanjeobsoci. com, www.sanjeobsoci.com. Q 55 beds.
Guest Huse Martinov Hram Trg Golobarskih Žrtev 27, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62 14, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 69, sara.bergi nc@ gmail.com, www.martinov-hram.si. Q 28 beds.
Apartments Alpha center Dvor 41a, tel./fax +386 (0)5 389 60 16,
(0)41 57 93 56,
[email protected], www.bovec. net/apartmajiktrenc. Q 10 beds.
+386 (0)5 388 14 03/+386 (0)31 607 234,
[email protected]. Q 6 beds.
Stari Kovač Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386
Camps
(0)41 64 64 27,
[email protected],
[email protected], w ww.starikovac. com. Q 24 beds.
Camping Kamp Polovnik Ledina 8, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 389
Turist Farms
Turist Farms
Jelenov Breg Pod Matajurjem Avsa 22, tel. +386
Turistična Kmetija Pri Kafolu Prapetno 15, tel. +386
(0)41 618 698,
[email protected], www.prikafolu. com. Q 20 beds.
Apartmaji Bovška Hiša Kot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 388 60
Kamp Soča Soča 8, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 18/+386
Where t Sle ep Kbarid
32/+386 (0)31 263 632,
[email protected], www. bovec-sc.si. Q 6+2 beds. JW
(0)31 82 44 86,
[email protected]. Q Camping €6 per person, apartments €50. TLBDW
Apartmaji JOJO Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64
Pension and Camp Klin Lepena 1, Soča, tel. +386 (0)5
Hotel Hvala Trg Svobode 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93
Apartmaji Komac Klanc 10, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62
Where t Sleep Tlmin
Guesthuses
07/+386 (0)41 91 02 80,
[email protected], www. apartmaji.komac.si. Q10 beds.
Apartments
Hiša Franko Staro Selo 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.hisafranko.com.Q 26 beds.
Apartmaji Makuc Klanc 15, tel. +386 (0)5 388 67 80/+386 (0)41 66 32 73,
[email protected], www. apartmaji-makuc.si. Q 5 + 2 beds.
386,
[email protected], mengore.com. Q 16 beds.
Apartmaji Mavrič Majda Dvor 61, tel. +386 (0)5 303 52 25/+386 (0)40 55 98 82,
[email protected], www.apartments-mavric.com. Q 8 beds.
Apartmaji Mrakič Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)41
Apartmaji Mengore Volče 140b, tel. +386 (0)41 427 Apartmajska Hiša Blazar Volarje 48a, tel. +386 (0)31 529 946,
[email protected], www.blazar.si. Q 14 beds.
Apartma Kavčič Poljubinj 24m, tel. +386 (0)5 381
17 33/+386 (0)41 692 299,
[email protected], www.apartma-kavcic.si. Q 12 beds.
32 91 74,
[email protected], www.mrakic.net. Q 6 apartments €50-130, 30% more for stays of less than 3 nights. PJALW 00/+386 (0)41 32 86 29, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 01,
[email protected], www.apar tmajiskok.com. tmajiskok.com. Q 22 beds.
Nebesa Turistične Hiše Livek 39, tel. +386 (0)5 384 46 20,
[email protected], www.nebesa.si. Q 8 beds.
Picerija Fedrig Volaričeva 11, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 Q
06/+386 (0)31 70 61 11, fax +386 (0)5 896 20 7,
[email protected]. Q 18 beds.
389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.restavracija@ siol.net, www.kotlar.si. Q 15 beds.
Stergulc House Tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44, info@
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
EDEN 2008: e Soča Valley TIC Bovec Tel.: +386 (0)5 38 96 444 E-mail:
[email protected] www.dolina-soce.si
Directory Društvo za prosto letenje POSOČJE Dijaška 12c, Tolmin, tel. (+386) 41 966 367, kobala.info@ gmail.com, www.kobala.si.
Ustanova “Fundacija Poti miru v Posočju” Gregorčečeva ulica 8, Kobarid, tel. (+386) 53 89 01 67/ (+386) 31 586 296,
[email protected], www.potmiru.si.
Casin Igralniško-Zabaviščni Igralniško-Z abaviščni Center Aurora Staro Selo 60a, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 45 00, info.aurora@ hit.si, www.aurora-hitstars.si.
Apartments
641 899, info@a2rafting, www.a2rafting.eu.
Apartma Berginc Drežniške Ravne 42, tel. +386 (0)5
Agencija Metulj Cankarjeva 8, Tolmin, tel. +386
Apartma pri Koptanhu Drežnica 45, tel. +386 (0)5
Alpin Action Trnovo ob Soči 26a, Kobarid, tel. +386
Apartma-RaGregorčiče va 6c, tel. +386 (0)41 641 899,
Transprt
Apartma Šavli Magozd 5a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 37
Jojo Prevozi Dvor 5, tel. +386 (0)41 880 906,
[email protected],
[email protected], www.jojo-prevozi.com. www.jojo-prevozi.com.
07/+386 (0)41 421 007,
[email protected], www. apartmasavli.com. Q6 beds.
EDEN Slovenia
tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 8/+386 (0)41 332 668, kmeti ja@ robidisce.si, www.robidisce.si. Q 7 beds.
Sprts Agencies
[email protected], www.a2rafting.eu. Q21 beds.
Rafting on the Soča river, photo by Andraž Krpič, Archive LTo Bvec
384 85 62/+386 (0)41 946 088, inf o@turizem-kranjc. si, www.turizem-kranjc.si. Q 20 beds.
36/+386 (0)41 494 565,
[email protected], users.volja.net/lowriz. Q 11 beds.
384 85 05/+386 (0)31 599 480, apartma.koptanh@ gmail.com, www.apartmaji-dreznica.com. Q 4 beds.
Conference Centres
Turistična Kmetija Kranjc Koseč 7, tel. +386 (0)5
15 beds.
Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, tel. +386 (0)5
389 37 08/+386 (0)31 370 133, berginc.bogdan@ yahoo.com, www.apartma-berginc.si. Q 10 beds.
Apartmaji Tajčr Brdo 44, tel. +386 (0)5 389 62
bovec.si, www.bovec.si. Run by the Bvec turist bard, this antiquated burgeis residence is a gd alternative ptin fr cnferences, seminars r weddings. Whilst there are mdern additins t ensure ne’s cmfrt, specifically a lift, bar and tw cnference rms (70 or 100 delegates), the house is packed with old stries which yu can pur ver in the museum.
00,
[email protected], www.hotelhvala.si. Q 61 beds.
15/+386 (0)31 249 147,
[email protected].
(0)41 494 560,
[email protected], www. jelenov-breg-pod-matajurjem.si. Q 6 beds.
Turistična Kmetija Robidišče Robidišče 3, Breginj,
Htels
Sobe pri Lovrižu Drežnica 22, tel. +386 (0)5 384 86
Apartmaji Skok Mala Vas 111, tel. +386 (0)5 389 63
13 11,
[email protected], www.kamp-koren.si.
[email protected], www.camp-gabrje.com.
tel. +386 (0)31 33 52 35,
[email protected], www. apartmaji-alpha.si. Q 4 + 4 beds.
388 95 13,
[email protected]. ABKD
Camps Kamp Koren Drežniške Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389
Camp Gabrje Volarje 57, tel. +386 (0)40 153 490,
60 07/+386 (0)31 34 44 17,
[email protected], www.kamp-polovnik.com.Q €5.25-8/person, tents €1-2, r caravans €3. A
70/+386 (0)41 88 09 06, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 71,
[email protected], www.joffitours.com. Q 12 beds.
+386 (0)5 384 86 40/+386 (0)41 337 403, apartmaji.
[email protected], www.apartmaji-ivancic.si.Q 10 beds.
Chalet Kamp Koren Kobarid Drežniške Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389 13 11/+386 (0)41 371 229, info@ kamp-koren.si, www.kamp-koren.si. Q 36 beds.
A2rafting Volaričeva 15, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)41 (0)5 381 00 10/+386 (0)51 411 944, metulj@siol. net, www.agencija-metulj.com.
(0)5 384 55 04/+386 (0)41 708 132, alpin.action@ siol.net, www.sloveniarafting.si.
Turist Agencies Ta Tmin Tours Trg 1. Maja 8, Tolmin, tel. +386 (0)5
381 19 93,
[email protected], www.tmintours.si.
eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com
2012/13
EDEN 2009: e Solčavsko region e Rinka Centre – the Solčava Tourist Information Centre Tel.: +386 (0)3 83 90 710 E-mail: info@solcavsko
[email protected] .info www.solcavsko.info
Bovec
EDEN 2010: e Kolpa River RIC Bela krajina Tel.: +386 (0)7 30 56 530 E-mail: info@ric-belakraj
[email protected] ina.si www.kolpariver.eu
EDEN 2011: Idrija TIC Idrija Tel.: +386 (0)5 37 43 916 E-mail:
[email protected] www.idrija-turizem.si
49
EDEN 2009: e Solčavsko region e Rinka Centre – the Solčava Tourist Information Centre Tel.: +386 (0)3 83 90 710 E-mail: info@solcavsko
[email protected] .info www.solcavsko.info
EDEN 2008: e Soča Valley TIC Bovec Tel.: +386 (0)5 38 96 444 E-mail:
[email protected] www.dolina-soce.si
Bovec
EDEN 2010: e Kolpa River RIC Bela krajina Tel.: +386 (0)7 30 56 530 E-mail: info@ric-belakraj
[email protected] ina.si www.kolpariver.eu
EDEN 2011: Idrija TIC Idrija Tel.: +386 (0)5 37 43 916 E-mail:
[email protected] www.idrija-turizem.si
Follow us on TwiTTer @SloveniaInfo
.va.f/ttt
Join us on FACeBooK Feel Slovenia
.va.f/facbk
ConneCT wiTh us on linKedin Slovenian Tourist Board
Follow us on TwiTTer @SloveniaInfo
.va.f/ttt
Join us on FACeBooK Feel Slovenia
.va.f/facbk
ConneCT wiTh us on linKedin Slovenian Tourist Board
.va.f/k
suBsCriBe To our YouTuBe ChAnnel Slovenia
.va.f/ytb
Follow us on FoursQuAre SloveniaInfo
.va.f/fqa
inTerACT wiTh us on Social Media. www.sv.f
