DM Yourselves Digital Stretch Goals

 

DM Yourselves

Digital Stretch Goals

Binding Decision Card Below is the Binding Decision card. Decision card. The idea of this card is that, after reading the location boxed text in an adventure, instead of writing your Binding Decision down Decision down or saying it in your head (where it's so easy to convince yourself "well, of course, I thought I'd check for traps" once you read on and discover the room is full of them), you can use this card - just turn it so that your planned action is pointing towards you. If you want to do a multi-part Binding Decision you Decision you can instead place a cube/counter on each thing you want to do (but remember, the actions marked with a * cost a 'tick' of time, which may have consequences). On the reverse side of the card car d is the basic Immersion Table (it's Table (it's the mostused table in DM Yourself , and I find it's always useful to have a reminder of it whenever I'm DMing, even non-solo). Every time you get to a boxed location text in the adventure (or start a new session, or simply feel a bit disconnected from your character), roll a d6 and look up the result. Detailed rules for using the Immersion Table can be found on pg. 19-24 of DM Yourself . If you are stuck for inspiration, use the Extended Immersion Tables on pg. 46-50 of DM Yourself .

 

Gameplay Loop Card This is the Gameplay Loop card Loop card – the front side is a cheat-sheet with the basic DM Yourself  system  system for navigating locations and encounters cut down to the absolute minimum. You really need to read the book to see how these steps work, but this card will act as a handy reminder. After y ou’ve done a couple of adventures, it’ll be second nature. 

On the reverse of the card is DM Yourself ’s ’s Minimal DC Oracle. Oracles aren’t needed much when you’re soloing published adventures, but if you

do find yourself needing an answer to a question and the adventure doesn’t help then roll a d6 –  Minor factors that might influence the answer

dive Advantage or Disadvantage on the roll; Major factors give +1 or -1 depending on whether they make a positive result more or less likely. Detailed rules for using the Oracle are on pg. 45-46 of DM Yourself . 

Tiny Battle Map/Story Mode Sheet IMPORTANT : If you’re reading these rules to go with the physical sheet supplied with the Kickstarter, be aware that its surface is gloss rather than true dry-wipe laminate. In tests I’ve run on it, I could easily wipe off a drywipe pen even after it had been left for a couple of weeks, but I suggest you clean it sooner than that and laminate the sheet if it starts to discolour.

 

If you’re printing this yourself, t his should ideally be printed double-sided

(so the Battle Map and Story Mode sheet are back-to-back) and A5 size so that the large grid lines on the battle map form a roughly 1-inch grid, and then laminated so you can write on it with a dry-wipe pen. I like having a solo setup that takes a minimal amount of table space, so I went with the idea of having a battle map the same size as a copy of DM Yourself  –  – it’s a very portable setup! The Tiny Battle Map has Map has areas for writing down important information to speed up gameplay:

  I use the space in the title bar to record the AC, HP, Attack Bonus

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and Damage for the main attack attac k of my PC and Sidekick (and I tend to leave this on the map until those values change). I use the space below to record those same s ame values for the enemies (if an a n enemy gets injured, I write the current hp on the map next to the enemy). I use space on the left-hand side under “INIT:” to record Initiative order and rolls. There are three ways of using the battle map:

  It can be used like a ‘normal’ battle map for rooms up to 30x40ft in

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size – just draw the room and place the miniatures.

  It can be used as a ‘focussed’ battle map (apologies for the made-

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up term!) for conflicts in bigger spaces. Usually when playing solo using the DM Yourself  rules, you’ll only have a single PC and Sidekick. This means that the actual melee area of the conflict is usually quite small. The exact positions of characters outside that area is unimportant – you only need to know how far away they are so you know the range for ranged weapons, or the distance they need to travel if they’re running towards towa rds the melee. To represent this, I place the mini just off the map with an arrow pointing to it and the distance in feet. If they’re in cover I’ll also indicate that.  

  Finally, you can use the map ‘zoomed out’, get rid of the minis

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altogether (or get some 3D printed at half-scale!) and just use the smaller  grid as 5’ squares, writing the positions of characters and enemies on the map. Now you can represent a 60x80ft area, which is big enough for most purposes.

 

  Normal  mode  mode – just draw the map and add miniatures … 

 

 

Focussed  mode  mode – this is a forest, those strange black squiggles are trees, obviously! The Wolves, dashing, will make it onto the map next turn, but not quite into melee. The Goblin archers will move 20ft closer so as to be in short range with their Shortbows.

 

   Zoomed Out  mode  mode – the big squares are now 10ft, the small ones 5ft. We can get rid of miniatures mi niatures altogeth altogether er and just write positions on the map. For really big maps you can combine this with Focussed  mode  mode – enemies that are off the map are marked at the margin along with their distance.

 

 

The Story Mode/Fast Combat Sheet  is  is a just a convenient way of recording encounters in that mode so you don’t have to print out a sheet each time. Because Current Fails changes Fails changes so regularly, I use cubes or counters to mark them. It really helps if you have a fine a fine-tipped -tipped dry-wipe pen – you can use a thicker one, but you’ll need to write small and abbreviate!