DIY Tri-Fold Futon Base

DIY Futon Base Saturday, 9 January 2016

11:13 AM

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How To Make A Fold out Sofa/Futon/Bed Frame by VVBoredGuy

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I enjoy relaxing on a sofa and in my bed, and so it may come as no surprise that I would wish to combine the two. After searching Ikea and several other shops, I found the average price for a "tri-fold" futon was in the region of 120GBP ($150). I found this pretty steep for what is basically some planks of pine and a mattress. Tips Page 3

So I decided to make my own.

Let me make this clear before I begin:This Instructable is only howto build the frame. I have not yet worked out how I will make the mattress or if I will attempt to buy one, but in the instructables spirit if anyone has any suggestions, suggest away.

This futon folds in three sections to givea comfortably wide (4ft) and long (6ft-ish) bedthat could sleep two (if proximity is not an issue!). When it is folded up it forms a sofathat is close to the ground and has an open angle (about 100 degrees) which I find very comfortable to sit on.

I am not a carpenter, crafstman or a great DIY-er, I didn't even take wood tech in school, so this instructable is very accessable. So get up off your computer and turn that empty space in your bedroomor living room into a versatile piece of furniture! If I can do it, so can you!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

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This is the list of materials and tools I used during the project. The wood I used was pine as it is cheap, relatively strong yet a little springy to make the futon a bit more comfortable. The type of wood you use is up to you but in my opinion, pine works best. My local hardware store cut the planks for me at no extra cost, but depending on where you go they may charge 10% extra:this is worth it.

Wood:

12 x 1200mmx 95mmplanks (20mmthickness: I think this is standard) 2 x 770mmx 70 mmplanks(20mmthickness) 2 x 700mmx 70 mmplanks(20mmthickness) 2 x 690mmx 70 mmplanks(20mmthickness)

Also some kind of stain, oil or wax to protect it and make it look good.

Nuts, Bolts and Screws:

46 x 40mmscrews(4mmhead) 4 x 6mmbolts (6mmis the diameter: length needs to be no less than45mm, 50mmis ideal)

4 x 6mmwingnuts(or regular nuts, but wingnuts are easier to use in assembly and disassembly) Tools: Tips Page 6

Tools:

Pencil Ruler (graduated in millimetres) Set Square(or similar)

Protractor Electric Screwdriver/Drill 2.5mmdrill bit 6.5mmdrill bit Manual Screwdriver

Saw Medium Grade Sandpaper Rasp or planer (a rasp is a bit like reusable, very coarse sandpaper, but a planer would work just as well)

Optional

Scrap piece of wood to test drill bits and screws Cat The total cost of the wood came to around 33GBP ($40) and the screws, bolts and nuts totalled about 2GBP ($2.50). I alreday had the teak oil so the total cost for this project (assuming you have all the tools) is around35GBP ($45), but again this depends on where you shop.

Step 2: IMPORTANT NOTE When doing any measurements throughout this instructable, remember toMEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. This is very important as mistakes are easy to make and rushing things is not a good idea.

Other notes to do with safety: Tips Page 7

Other notes to do with safety:

- Always clamp wood that you are drilling or cutting - Work in a clean, dry and well ventilated area - Make sure you knowhowto use the sawand electric drill correctly and safely

- DO NOT work when you are tired or have drunk alcohol: you will make mistakes and you could injure yourself

Step 3: Preparing The large planks

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For this step you will need therasp or planer, and the glasspaper. You will be working on the 12000mmx 95mmplanks.

1. Use the rasp to shamfer the edges slightly.

2. Glasspaper the plank to smooth the edges and surfaces, paying particular attention to the ends. (The glasspapering is easier if you wrap the glasspaper around a small block of wood. I cut a piece of scrapI had lying around.)

Do this for all 12 planks.

Step 4: Marking The Smallest Planks (690mmx 70mm)

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***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should look like*** The smallest planks (690mmx 70mm) need to have a small section cut out of one end, the other end tapered slightly and one drill hole.

Small Section(requires some accurate measuring)

1. Measure85mmdownfrom one end and mark it. 2. At this mark draw a perpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square. 3. Measure an angle of7 degrees fromone of the edges. Rule a line.

4. Measure37mmalong this line (starting from the edge) and mark it. Tips Page 11

5. Fromthis point measure an angle of95 degrees towards the end of the plank. Rule a line. 6. Shade in the section in the 95 degree angle and the other side of the 7 degree angle. This is the bit to be cut out (main picture).

Drill Hole(mark this before the tapered end)

1. Measure30mmdownand mark it.

2. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square. 3. Halfway in (35mm) mark the drill hole.

Tapered End(basically two triangles)

1. At the end with the drill hole, measure20mmdown and 20mmacross the top. Draw a line. 2. This is the triangle to be cut out. 3. Repeat on other side.

Step 5: Marking The MediumSmall Planks (700mmx 70mm)

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***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should look like*** The medium small planks need on end tapered and a small triangle taken off the other end. They also need a drill hole at each end.

Drill Holes (mark these first)

1. At one end, measure30mmdownand mark it. 2. At this mark draw a perpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square. 3. Halfway in (35mm) mark the drill hole.

4. At the other end, measure50mmdownand mark it. 5. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square. 6. Measure15mmin and mark the drill hole.

Tapered End(at the end with the hole in the middle) Tips Page 13

Tapered End(at the end with the hole in the middle)

1. Measure20mmdown and 20mmacross the top. Draw a line. 2. This is the triangle to be cut out. 3. Repeat on other side.

Triangle(at the end with the hole 15mmin)

1. Measure25mmdownon the side opposite the drill hole.

2. Measure25mmacross the top. 3. Rule a line between the marks. This is the bit needed to be cut out.

Step 6: Marking The MediumLong Planks (770mmx 70mm)

***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should look like***

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The long planks need one drill hole and one triangle cut out at one end.

Drill hole 1. Measure165mmdownfrom one end and mark it.

2. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square. 3. Measure15mmin and mark the drill hole.

Triangle 1. On the opposite side to the drill hole, measure35mm downand mark it. 2. Then measure35mmacross the topand mark it. 3. Rule a line. This is the triangle to be cut out.

Step 7: Cutting and Drilling

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1. Cut and Drill where you have marked on the planks. (6mmdrill bit) 2. On the tapered ends, triangles and cut outs smooth and sand roughly (not too much as some measuring is yet to be done).

Nowyour six small planks should look like this:

This is a good time to test the foldingmechanism of your futon. It should be fairly obvious where the hinges attach and so forth but incase it isn't...

- The tapered ends attach to each - The other end of the middle section attaches to the long section - The cut out section of the smallest planks should rest on the longest planks when folded up

Step 8: Note: Measuring the ScrewHoles Now we need to add some screw guide holes on the planks. These will make sure the Tips Page 16

Now we need to add some screw guide holes on the planks. These will make sure the screws go in straight ensuring the best fit and so the wood doesn't crack. This is the most tedious part of the build and also one of the most important. This is a dangerous combination soconcentrate. It should not take much longer than 30 minutes.

ACCURACY IS KEY

Step 9: Measuring the ScrewHoles on the Long Planks (1200mmx 95mm)

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These need to be measured differently:

- 7 planks need to be measured one way - 4 planks another

- 1 plank is unique

The "7" planks (there will be4 holes)

1. Measure150mmdownfrom one side.

2. Draw aperpendicular lineacross the plank. Tips Page 18

3. Measurehalfwayand make a mark. 4. Nowmeasure20mmeither sideof the middle and mark your screw holes. 5. Repeatat the other end.

The "4" planks (same as last time only they are 170mmdown)

1. Measure170mmdownfrom one side.

2. Draw aperpendicular lineacross the plank. 3. Measurehalfwayand make a mark. 4. Nowmeasure20mmeither sideof the middle and mark your screw holes. 5. Repeatat the other end.

The "1" plank(2 holes)

1. Measure150mmdownfrom one side. 2. Draw aperpendicular lineacross the plank. 3. Measurehalfwayand mark the screw hole.

4. Repeatat the other end.

Step 10: Measuring the ScrewHoles on the Other Planks

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The different planks need to be measured differently. On the four shorter ones there should be 4 pairs of holes (8) and on the two longer ones there should be 3 pairs of holes and one single hole (7). They all need to be measured along thetop edge(see step 7: the top edges are the edges farthest up on the picture). Tips Page 20

step 7: the top edges are the edges farthest up on the picture).

Shortest planks(690mmx 70mm)

1. Measure85mmin from the tapered end along the top edge and mark it.(85mm from the original end of the plank: in retrospect this would have been easier before tapering the end). 2. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it.

3. Measure135mmfrom this mark and mark it. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice. 5. Measure40mmfrom the last mark and mark it. 6. You nowshould have8marks (4 pairs). 7. Ruleperpendicular lines across the wood on all the marks.

8. Measurehalfway in on these lines(10mm)and mark the drill holes. 9. Use this plank as a template for the second plank (see picture).

Medium small planks (700mmx 70mm)

1. Measure145mmfrom the end with one corner cut off along the top edge and mark it. 2. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it.

3. Measure110mmfrom this mark and mark it. 4 Repeat steps 2 and 3twiceas with the small planks. 5. Measure40mmfrom the last mark and mark it. 6. You nowshould have8marks (4 pairs). 7. Ruleperpendicular lines across the wood on all the marks. 8. Measurehalfway in on these lines(10mm)and mark the drill holes. Tips Page 21

9. Use this plank as a template for the second plank (see picture).

Medium long planks(770mmx 70mm)

1. Measure30mmin from the flat end along the top edge and mark it. (This is the single hole).

2. Measure135mmfrom this mark and mark it 3. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it. 4. Measure125mmfrom this mark and mark it. 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 once. 6. Measure40mmfrom the last mark and mark it.

7. You nowshould have7marks (3 pairs and one single). 8. Ruleperpendicular lines across the wood on all the marks. 9. Measurehalfway in on these lines (10mm) and mark the drill holes. 10. Use this plank as a template for the second plank (see picture).

Measure these twice to avoid errors. It will save you time, effort and money in the long run.

Step 11: Drilling the screwholes

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Using the 2.5mmdrill bit, carefully drill on the marks as close to vertical as possible.

On the large planks, the holes should go all the way through the planks. Tips Page 23

On the large planks, the holes should go all the way through the planks.

On the smaller planks, the holes only need to extend about 20mmin (doesn't have to be exact).

Step 12: Finishing the small planks

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After drilling the screw holes we can finish the small planks. The top edge (the one with the holes) should only be lightly sanded as it needs to sit flush with the large planks. I gave the bottomedge a strong bevel.

Step 13: Assembly

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Now comes the interesting part. The key to the assembly is preparation. Firstly, screw all of the screws through the long planks so that the ends are just poking out the bottom. This will make lining up the planks on the smaller planks infinitely easier.

The 4 long planks measured earlier attach to the medium short planks (700mmx 70mm) the 7 planks attach to the other planks (the 770mmx 70mmone and the 690mmx 70mmone) and the single holed plank goes on the 770mmx 70mmone). It should be fairly obvious but it is important to get themin the right place so the futon folds properly.

Screw the planks in place to end up with the three sections of the futon. Before finishing the futon, check thateverythingworks. Assemble the futon using the wing nuts and bolts and test it. Everything should work smoothly but if not, youmay need to make some adjustments.

(EDIT) I have added an extra diagram which should help you see what I mean.

Step 14: Finishing the Futon Disassemble the futon into its three parts. Give the whole thing a good sanding to get Tips Page 26

Disassemble the futon into its three parts. Give the whole thing a good sanding to get rid of sharp edges and to prepare it for treating. Then treat the futon with what you like. I used 3 coats of teak oil which gives it a lovely colour and smell and protects it. However you could use wax or even stain, whatever works. Reassemble and you have a fully functional folding futon frame. From

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