DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy TABLE OF CONTENTS About the Author ....................................................................................................................................................... 4 CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION TO SHADESAILS .................................................................................... 5 WHY INSTALL A SHADESAIL .......................................................................................................................................... 5 What is and What is Not a Shadesail ................................................................................................................ 6 UVR Facts ...................................................................................................................................................................... 7 IN SUMMARY ..................................................................................................................................................................... 7 CHAPTER 2: PLANNING FOR A SHADESAIL ........................................................................................... 8 DO I NEED A PERMIT OR LOCAL PLANNING PERMISSION? ........................................................................................ 8 IS A SHADESAIL REALLY THE RIGHT OPTION? ............................................................................................................. 9 WHAT EQUIPMENT WILL BE REQUIRED? ................................................................................................................... 10 MOVEMENT OF THE SUN .............................................................................................................................................. 12 CHAPTER 3: SHADESAIL DESIGN ............................................................................................................ 18 HOW SHADESAILS ARE MADE ...................................................................................................................................... 18 Ready Made VS Custom Made ........................................................................................................................... 19 Types of Shadesails ................................................................................................................................................ 19 THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN ORDERING A SHADESAIL ........................................................................................... 20 Shape ............................................................................................................................................................................ 21 Size ................................................................................................................................................................................ 22 Shade cloth Fabric ................................................................................................................................................. 22 UVR Block VS Shade Factor ............................................................................................................................... 24 SHADESAIL DESIGNS ..................................................................................................................................................... 26 Triangular Shadesails .......................................................................................................................................... 29 OTHER DESIGN IDEAS ................................................................................................................................................... 36 CHAPTER 4: INSTALLING THE ATTACHMENT POINTS ................................................................... 37 CHAPTER 5: MEASURING UP FOR THE SHADESAIL ......................................................................... 47 How to Measure ...................................................................................................................................................... 47 TURNBUCKLE & HARDWARE SELECTION ................................................................................................................. 50 Hardware Guide ...................................................................................................................................................... 51 CHAPTER 6: FITTING THE SHADESAIL ................................................................................................. 53 Tensioning Larger Shadesails ........................................................................................................................... 54 CHAPTER 7: SHADESAIL MAINTENANCE ............................................................................................ 55 APPENDICES .................................................................................................................................................. 56 1. SYNTHESIS COMMERCIAL 95 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION SHEET .................................................................. 56 2. SHADESAIL MEASURING GUIDES ............................................................................................................................ 57 3. RAFTER BRACKET FITTING GUIDE ........................................................................................................................ 61 CONTACTS & USEFUL LINKS ........................................................................................................................................ 62 EXAMPLE OF A LOCAL COUNCIL SHADESAIL APPROVAL & REQUIREMENTS ...................................................... 63
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Disclaimer
Whilst every attempt has been made to provide accurate information it must be understood that shade sails should only be installed by suitably capable and qualified persons. Safe working methods must be adhered to at all times. Such methods may be dictated by specific onsite circumstances which are outside the scope of this book. It is incumbent on the reader to familiarize themself with such methods and to apply them at all times. If you do not have the necessary experience or ability in this area it is recommended that a building professional be engaged to install your shade sail and you use the information in this book to act as a supervisor or consultant to the project. All information in this document is provided as general guide only. Specific site considerations must always be taken into account. It is incumbent upon the person reading this book to make all necessary safety checks and take all necessary precautions and preparations regarding their own safety and that of others. It is recommended that for specific engineering and installation matters that suitably qualified professionals be engaged or consulted. The author of this book does not accept any liability whatsoever for the way in which this information is used or applied. Furthermore, all liability for damage, loss, injury or expense whether direct or indirect arising from the use of this information is expressly excluded to the full extent of exclusions under Federal and state law. No warranties are extended to any works carried out by any persons using information in this book. No promises are made as to any end result any one person may or may-not achieve from reading and/or employing any information covered in this book. It should be noted that this book must be read only upon acceptance of these stated terms. Should any person not accept these terms in their entirety they should immediately contact Shade Australia within 5 days of purchase of this book whereupon they will be supplied with a full refund.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Do It Yourself Shade Shadesails Made Easy by Andy McLeod
About the Author Andy McLeod founded his company Shade Australia in the summer of 2000 believing that as the hottest country on earth with the highest rate of preventable skin cancer in the world, Australia should be the leader in the provision of high quality shade for outdoor activities. Andy has been involved in the design, manufacture and installation of thousands of shadesails and this book is a compilation of the knowledge he has gained over that time. If you; • are either planning to design and install a shadesail yourself or you want be able to direct and manage tradespeople to do the job for you • wish to save yourself some money • want to understand what you should be paying • want to achieve a safe, strong structure • want to make sure the shade is cast where you want it then this book has been written for you! Shade Australia supplies shadesails to customers across Australia and around the world. The company has customers in New Zealand, Greece, Italy, Canada (yes really), United Kingdom, USA, South Africa, France and beyond. Important Note: This edition of DIY Shade is written from a Southern Hemisphere perspective. All measurements are metric.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 1: Introduction To Shadesails Over recent years, shadesails have become increasingly popular. In many public spaces such as schools and parks, the provision of shade is now a statutory requirement. This is understandable when it can take just 11 minutes of exposure to mild UV radiation for the skin to exhibit the first signs of sunburn. Shadesails today are sophisticated structures that are designed and engineered to look great and be safe in a variety of conditions. They are made from advanced polymers (usually polyethylene with UV inhibitors) and are designed to withstand the suns UV rays for up to a decade. Of course, this has not always been the case and shade sails in some form have been around for thousands of years. The shadesails today are essentially an evolution of the ancient Bedouin tents. These tents were constructed using wooden columns with a canvas canopy stretched over them and held secure by guy ropes. Like this one many had sides and were used as living quarters. Shadesails today typically don’t have sides, they only have the roof structure and are installed more to provide safe UV zones for short-stay outdoor activities. Shadesails have become popular as they; • • • • •
are a cost effective way to span large areas look aesthetically pleasing are a proven system for blocking UV Radiation are infinitely flexible in size, shape and design are relatively easy (once you know how) to install
Commonly referred to as ‘tension membrane structures’ the types of shadesails we discuss in this book are quite sophisticated. They use the latest technology in shading materials and rely on engineer certified columns and fittings to create striking structures that not only look spectacular but also provide high levels of UV protection. In fact, it is recommended that the shades today provide a minimum level of at least 94% UV protection.
Why install a Shadesail The simple fact is, most Summer outdoor activities these days require us to protect ourselves from UV radiation (UVR). Whether it’s sunscreen, shade or protective clothing, the provision of some UV protective during the hotter months of the year is now mandatory. The provision of high quality shade in outdoor areas where people congregate is
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Why We Love Shade Think about it, the hotter it gets the harder it works, it runs for free, it’s 100% environmentally friendly and without a doubt quality shade is the safest sunscreen ever invented.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy arguably the safest form of protection there is. In fact, according to a leading specialist in this area, Architect, John Greenwood; “The provision of quality shade is the single most important way [people] can protect themselves from the increasing levels of UV radiation.” Shadesails are a cost effective way to cover large areas. The main reasons for installing a shadesail would be: • • •
to provide protection from the sun and dangerous UV radiation to create cool outdoor areas where people can safely congregate to provide aesthetically pleasing structures to make areas look modern and inviting
Shadesails are installed in a vast range of situations. Some of the most common areas where shadesails are installed include; • • • • • •
Swimming pools Courtyards Cafes, Restaurants and outdoor dining areas As awnings or verandas In agricultural applications to provide shade to animals including sheep and cattle, horses, aquaculture, horticultural Car parks
What is and What is Not a Shadesail Before we get too far along, let’s define what is and what is not a shadesail. Firstly we’re talking about Shade Cloth Sails, we’re not talking about waterproof sails which are made from a different material and have different characteristics. This is a shadesail. It has three or four (or more) outer attachment points but no internal structure. The tension is achieved by pulling outwards at the corners. Cable or webbing stitched into a perimeter hem of the sail is tightened and the fabric sail takes shape. Nothing is holding it up in the middle, only the tension exerted on it from the corners. This is why shadesails are often referred to as “tension membrane structures.” This is not a shadesail. Although it has four (or more) outer posts and the canopy is made from shade fabric, the difference is that this structure has internal supports over which the fabric is suspended. This frame supports the fabric as opposed to a shadesail where there is no internal frame. What we are looking at here is a Shade Structure, (or a hip and ridge structure) not a shadesail. This is not a shadesail. This is a shade canopy. It has regularly spaced eyelets punched into its perimeter similar to a tarpaulin. It is then laced onto a supporting outer frame. Shadesails do not require an outer supporting frame.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy UVR Facts The by-product of installing a shadesail is the creation of cool shaded areas which are inviting for people to use during the heat. Looking at a typical UV index chart we can see that UV radiation is normally highest during the middle of the day, mainly between 10am and 2pm. However, on a hot Summer day we can see that there is UV radiation present at dangerous levels from before 9am through to mid or even late in the afternoon. UV radiation is the invisible light which comes from the sun. It is directly linked as the main cause of melanoma. Even today many people are unaware of just how insidious UVR really is. They are unaware for instance that the first signs of sunburn can occur in children in as little as five minutes exposure to high UVR. Samantha Conias of The Australian College of Dermatologists advises “Studies have shown that as little as six sunburns can double the risk of melanoma.”
In Summary The provision of UV Protective shade in our outdoor areas today is no longer a luxury, it’s a necessity. The purpose of this book is to give you the information you need to consider, to design and install a professional quality shadesail which will look great and last for years. If after reading this information you decide that the installation part of the job is beyond your abilities you will be well educated to engage a contractor and be able to give them clear instruction as to exactly what your requirements are and how the job should be done. You will be knowledgeable about the best types of shade cloth to use and how to position the shadesail itself so that it provides the coverage you need at the time of day you need it. This book will also save you a great deal of money by using the right materials and having them installed to the correct specifications. In fact, I dare say, by the end of this book you will know as much, if not more about installing shadesails than some of the shade industry contractors who do this for a living.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 2: Planning for a Shadesail There are a number of important things we need to go over before we start. Let’s address them one at a time.
Do I need a permit or local planning permission? The answer is you should check. My experience over the years has been that virtually every district has slightly different regulations. For instance some council areas stipulate that if you are installing any form of structure with an area greater than 10m2 you require council approval. In other areas it can be 15m2 or larger. Some councils don’t class shadesails as permanent structures because they are fabric, and unlike a metal roof, can be removed. Others do because the posts are concreted into the ground and this constitutes “a permanent installation.” I am not able to prove you specific advice on your local area in this book and even if I did, your local planning authority might just as easily change it’s regulations next month and the advice would be out of date. Accordingly, you should contact your local authority and seek advice1. however, that in our experience the following general guidelines apply:
I can confirm,
If the shadesail is to be installed in a public area such as park or pool then you will almost certainly require local planning permission. Most people who install shadesails in their home will seek council approval if the shade sail; a) b) c) d) e)
casts shade onto a neighbouring area blocks or interferes with a neighbours view is within one metre of a neighbours boundary alters the streetscape can easily be seen by anyone
Can I do it myself? Hopefully with everything you learn here the answer is YES but of course only you can answer this question. This book gives you the information you need to make that assessment. Even if you can’t, or choose not to do the job yourself, by using the information in this book you will be informed about exactly what needs to happen and will give you a much better chance of getting the end result you want at a fair price rather than hoping you are getting good advice from tradespeople.
1
Included in the back of the book is an example Local Council Shadesail Requirements Document which will give you an indication as to what documentation a Local Council might need you to supply.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Is a shadesail really the right option? Good Question! Shadesails have proven highly effect in many locations and applications but not all. I recommend before you push ahead with your plans to install a new shadesail that you pause for a few moments and consider their benefits and pitfalls. I’ve done a short “For and Against” table below (warts and all) which you can go through in the context of your area and what you what to achieve. At the end of the day, we all want you to end up with best possible solution and if you decide from reading this book that a shadesail isn’t right for you then your research will have been worth it.
For •
Excellent for creating cool UV protective areas for short term activities such as swimming
•
Work best when the area is relatively symmetrical e.g., 6 x 7 metres.
•
Their dramatic architectural look can create drama and interest to the area.
•
Can be cost effective over large areas.
•
They are very low maintenance.
•
Flexible shapes and custom shapes can be made to fit irregular areas.
•
Available in a great colour range to blend into an area or to stand out and make a statement.
•
•
Against •
Can not be moved around like a cantilever umbrella to cast the shade where you want it as the sun moves across the sky so careful planning is required for effective protection from morning and late afternoon sun.
•
They are not waterproof.
•
They are often more expensive than first anticipated, especially when having a contractor do the entire job.
•
Require firm natural ground for the columns.
•
Not really suitable for long narrow areas eg 3 x 8 metres.
•
On rooftops and balconies achieving appropriate and secure attachment points can be very difficult.
They can be removed during the winter months if you want to get the sun at those times. • Although high wind areas are not recommended for shadesails they are significantly more wind tolerant than many other options such as Folding Arm Awnings.
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A lot of coverage is lost due to the curvature of the edges
•
Further coverage is lost at the outer corners where the tensioning devices (e.g. turnbuckles) are fitted
•
They typically don’t have sides leaving the area underneath open to the elements.
•
Typically shade cloth is a flammable material. FR (Flame Resistant) fabric is expensive and can be difficult to source.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy What equipment will be required? To install a professional quality shadesail requires quite a bit of work and some basic equipment. If you do not own everything on this list do not worry – most of it can easily be hired. Let’s run through the basics of what’s required. Basic equipment includes: • • • • • • •
compass (or accurate knowledge of where North is located on your property) long tape measure ladder drill string for string lines spirit level knowledge of the structure of your house
For in ground columns • • • • • •
Vehicle which can carry lengths of steel (such as a ute or roof racks) Wheelbarrow Shovel Auger Strong flat piece of timber approximately 30cm wide x 1.5m long Underground services plans including knowledge of location of conduits through existing concrete slabs, Telstra cables etc
Deciding on the position of the columns You must plan to install the columns further out than the area of the shadesail itself. This is because the corners of the shadesail do not come right up to the columns. Most shadesails require a tensioning device such as a turnbuckle at the outer corners. What this means is that you lose around 30cm of actual coverage at each corner so in order to compensate, you have to install the attachment points further apart. Digging the holes This is probably the hardest part. The bigger the shadesail you plan to install, the deeper the holes need to be. As a general guide, even with a small shadesail the holes will need to be 1/3 in the ground, 2/3 out – ie, a least 1 metre or 3’3’’ deep. If the ground is hard you may need to hire an auger from a local hire shop to get the job done. If you are installing a large shadesail, the holes need to be deeper than this and it isn’t practical to dig the holes by hand. In this instance you may need to hire a mini-digger or get a contractor in to do this part of the job for you. When we talk about the hole diameter and depth we are always assuming “firm natural ground”. Typically what that means soil which hasn’t previously been disturbed. Backfill for instance in a garden bed will not provide a firm support for the columns and as soon as tension is applied, the columns will shift.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Installing the columns We recommend using metal columns and they are heavy. Usually your local steel merchant can cut them to length and deliver them. They can be heavy to lift into the holes and this is the point you might need some extra manpower on hand. Mixing and pouring the concrete Once the steel columns are in the holes they need to be concreted in. A typical hole might be 50cm wide x 1.2 metres deep. This requires .03 of a cubic metre of concrete2 or about two to three wheelbarrows full. This is quite a bit of mixing on site but it can be done. Using a concrete mixer makes it easier or what makes it easier still is having the entire load of concrete delivered in a Mini-mix truck.
Having the concrete delivered makes a tough job easy and it also allows you to specify the strength of concrete you need rather than just guessing.3 Fitting the shadesail This is the fun bit. It does, however, require working on ladders to reach up and hook the shadesail onto the eyebolts for tensioning. If you’re not confident and experienced at working on ladders this might be something you choose to outsource. You might decide to get in a tradesperson for some parts of the job such as digging the holes whilst doing other parts yourself such as fitting the shadesail. How do I ensure that I will end up with a quality job? That is the purpose of this book. We cover all the information you will need and alert you to the most common mistakes people typically make when they decide they are going to design and install a shadesail by themselves. Two of the most common mistakes that people make which by reading this book you will most certainly avoid are; 1. using columns which are too light / and not making your footings big enough. Both these things are common causes of shadesails sagging, looking amateur and subsequently failing. 2. Not understanding the curvature of shadesails and thus not getting adequate shade when the job is complete.
2 We show you how to calculate the amount of concrete you will need in a later section. 3 Note: A minimum of 20mpa strength concrete is required.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Permanent or Temporary As a general rule, a shadesail of the kind and quality we are discussing here should be considered a permanent installation. Using high quality fabrics, cables and attachments the shadesails should be able to withstand most conditions. Having said this, shadesails are not designed to withstand extreme weather events and very high winds. Although taking a shadesail down on a regular basis isn’t recommended (or if the job is done correctly, not required), when forecasts predict strong weather events approaching, it would be wise to organise for your shadesail to be taken down and stored until conditions are back to normal. Often times many people install shadesails in courtyard areas where they need protection from the heat and sun during the hotter months but in the winter they want use of the area to enjoy the milder sun. This isn’t a problem as there are a number of simple ways shadesail can be installed so they are relatively easy to take down and put back up as the season requires.
Movement of the Sun The sun is constantly moving – it rises in the east and sets in the west. One very important thing you should consider when planning your new shadesail is this apparent movement and its effect on where the shade falls. My experience is that it’s fairly common for people to forget to take this into account when planning their shadesail and the end result is that the shade doesn’t fall where they need it. A bit of forethought and planning here will mean the difference between a great result and a disappointing one. Typically what happens is that most people fit the shadesail directly over the area (e.g. an outdoor table) they want to cover. This works well at certain times of the day but poorly at other times. Shadow planning is quite complex and other than to provide a general overview it is beyond the scope of this book, however, if you have a general understanding of the principles and follow some simple rules you’ll end up with a much better result. Firstly, if you want the shade to cover a certain area in the middle of the day then fit the sail more-or-less directly over the area you want to shade. If you want the shade in the afternoon then you need to install the shadesail more toward the setting sun. What happens then is as the sun begins to get lower in the sky, it casts the shade back to the area you need it. Likewise, if the most important time you need the shade is in the morning then install the shadesail more toward the direction of the rising sun. Let’s review the following three shadow diagrams to get a better understanding of this.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Diagram 1 below shows a shadesail installed over an outdoor seating area. This example shows the shadow pattern on a typical mid-morning (as viewed from the north). As you can see, the shade is casting well out to the side, away from the sun. If it was important in this situation that the seating area be completely shaded in the mid-morning period, then the shadesail should have been installed more toward the east or morning sun.
Diagram 2 shows the same shadesail on a typical mid summers day. Quite clearly the shade is right over the seating area. If a well shaded area was required for an early lunchtime, this would be perfect.
Diagram 3 shows the opposite of diagram 1. The shade is casting out to the eastern side away from the setting sun (as viewed from the north). If the shade for this area was needed for mid-afternoon activities then this would be a poor design. Instead the shadesail should have been installed further to the west such that in the afternoon the shade would cast back to where it was required.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy The diagram below4 shows the difference in the Altitude of the sun between summer and winter. It references the angles of the mid-day sun for Melbourne Australia and contrasts the altitude of the winter sun which reaches only 28.5° on the winter solstice (i.e. the shortest day of the year, 21st June) with the altitude of the sun on the summer solstice (i.e. the longest day of the year 22nd December) as it reaches 75.5° above the horizon.
This of course has a dramatic impact on where the shade falls at different times of the day and at different dates in the year. From a DIY Shade Installers perspective, it’s important that when you’re planning your shade project that you’re aware of the following: •
The direction of True North.
•
In summer in the middle of the day the shadows will be short and the shade will fall close beneath the object casting it. (Remember: High Sun = Short Shadows which cast close in beneath the shadesail.)
•
In the morning and afternoon the sun is relatively low in the sky and it will cut in under the shadesail causing the shade to cast out to the opposite side. (Remember: Low Sun = Long Shadows that do not fall directly beneath the shadesail)
•
In winter, the sun never gets very high in the sky therefore the shade never really falls directly beneath the shadesail. Typically winter isn’t as important for shade planning because the suns intensity and the resultant UVR are not as great.
If you’re not sure about all this ‘theory’ on sun angles and shade projections and wish to take a more ‘practical’ approach then I can make two recommendations. 1. Take some time to do a little bit of your own shadow modelling. Watch where the sun comes up and where the shadows are cast during the day and take notes or mark the ground with chalk. I once visited a customer who was doing his own scalemodel of where the shade would fall at certain times of the day using a table. He’d carried a table out to the area that he was planning to shade and over a period of time he watched and recorded where the shade fell at certain times of the day.
4
http://museumvictoria.com.au/discoverycentre/infosheets/planets/the-sun-and-the-seasons/
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy After a while he had a pretty good idea of where he needed to build his shadesail to get the best shade for his purposes, he was able to scale-up his model into an actual shadesail, confident that the shade would fall exactly where he needed it at the appropriate times of day. 2. If you are really serious about getting it exactly right then you might want to have detailed shadow projections done for you. This isn’t as hard or expensive as it sounds. All you need is a plan of your area with a sketch of the shadesail where you’re planning to install it. Indicate on the plan the heights of the posts and where north is and the rest can be done for you. I’ve included the contact details at the back of companies we have used to do this for various clients. Having some Visual Representation Plans (VR Plans) prepared can also be a useful tool in getting a clearer idea of what the final job is going to look like. We do this a lot for bigger jobs or if we’re exploring various concepts and wanting to give the client some options. It’s not overly expensive and can be a really useful tool to use yourself if you’re not sure how the final job will look. Of course VR Plans are also useful to accompany plans to council or when you’re part of a committee and you want to make sure everything turns out exactly as planned. The CAD (Computer Aided Design) Diagram below was prepared from a hand-sketch we sent to the Shade Modeller. They provided us with these visuals which we sent to the client. The client was able to get a clearer idea of exactly what they were going to end up with. As you can see from the subsequent photos, the CAD diagrams were a pretty accurate representation of the final job and everyone was happy.
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The actual shadesail we installed as represented by the VR Plans we had done.
The client was delighted with this installation as it was exactly what they had expected.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
Useful Definitions and Dates Azimuth: Refers to the angle of the sun measured clockwise from north. Think of it like this, if you point the 12 on a wristwatch toward the north then if the sun was directly behind you it would be at an azimuth of 180°. Altitude: Refers here to the height or angle of the sun above the horizon. For example in Melbourne Australia, the highest the sun gets in the sky is an altitude angle of 75.5.° If you were standing on the equator at the exact same time, the sun would be directly overhead or have an altitude of 90°. Zenith: Refers here to the highest point of the sun on a given day. Solstice: Refers to two occasions of the year known as the summer and winter solstice. In the southern hemisphere the winter solstice is the shortest day of the year and the summer solstice is the longest. The winter solstice in the Southern Hemisphere occurs about June 21 whilst the summer solstice occurs about December 22. The summer solstice is around June 21 in the Northern Hemisphere with the winter solstice occurring around December 22.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 3: Shadesail Design How Shadesails are made When designing a shadesail it is useful for you to understand the basic principles used in manufacture. A shadesail is a large piece of fabric manufactured in such a way as to allow it to be tensioned up between columns or other attachment points. In order that a shadesail fits tightly and does not flap, the edges of the shadesail are curved. The technical term for this is the “cutinary edge” (meaning: cut-in-edge). It is also referred to as “scalloping” or just “curvature”. Along this curve, a hem is sewn and into that a strong webbing or steel cable is fitted. On each corner of the shadesail a strong ring is fitted. When tension is applied from the corners, this internal cable is pulled tight. As it gets tighter it tries to straighten thus pulling against the edge of the fabric and causing the ‘belly’ of the shadesail to also become tight. Many people ask why shadesails have curved edges and this is the reason. If the shadesail was just a square piece of fabric with no “cutinary edge” there would be no way to apply even tension across the entire surface of the fabric. This would lead to; 1. the belly or centre of the shadesail sagging 2. the overall shadesail not being tight 3. The sail flapping in the wind If a shadesail isn’t tight, it will flap and in a short period of time will rip out the stitching and flap itself apart. Typically a shadesail is made with a cutinary edge of between 5-8%.
Cutinary edges on shadesails are necessary. Yes, you do lose overall coverage but without the curved edge the sail will not tension up correctly.
Curved Edge of a Shadesail With a 5% cutinary
On this example, if the length of the shadesail was 6 metres and the cutinary was 5%, the scallop or curvature at the deepest point would be 30cm. Formula: 6000mm x 5% = 300mm
Nominal straight edge 6 metres
When I first started in the industry, most shadesails were laid out on the floor and cut with shears. Today, modern technology allows the whole thing to be done on a plotter-cutter. The fabric isn’t touched by human hands.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy The corner of the shadesail will not start directly at the attachment point as there must be a ‘Tensioning Allowance’. This is because shadesails need a tensioning device which links them to the attachment point (e.g. the eyebolt on the post). The most common way to achieve this is to use a turnbuckle and we will talk more about this further on. The ‘Tensioning Allowance’ is mentioned here to bring it to your attention at the design phase of the project. There are occasions when shadesails can be attached directly to the eyebolt in one or more corners. My preference is to avoid this as much as possible. The reason is that it does not allow any room for error. Shadesails are fabric structures and although the manufacturing of them today is quite accurate, they still vary from time to time in terms of the amount of stretch etc. If the shadesail is slightly too big then there is no room for adjustment leaving no way to take up the slack. I recommend, particularly as a DIY’er that you include a turnbuckle at each corner.
Ready Made VS Custom Made Ready-made shadesails seldom give a professional end result. The reason is that it is nearly impossible to purchase a standard size sail and fit it perfectly into an existing space. I’ve seen it dozens of times where people purchase a standard size shadesail, say 5 metres x 5 metres square. They then go and put their posts in at spacing’s of 5 metres apart. What they’ve forgotten is to allow adequate room for tensioning. What they end up with is a sagging and very amateur looking shadesail. Also common is when people install a standard sized shadesail but for some reason they can’t install one of the attachment points in exactly the correct position. What happens then is that the sails pulls crookedly causing bunching and IMPORTANT NOTE wrinkling at one or more corners. I will emphasise here that as with most things you really do get what you pay for when it comes to shadesails. Standard sized, ready made shadesails purchased from a hardware store are all imported. Most are maximum 90% UV. The difference in quality between these hardware store sails and an Australian made product is exponential.
The best (and correct) way to ensure the shadesail fits perfectly is to install the attachment points first and then take the measurements, not the other way around.
Types of Shadesails Essentially there are three main methods that are used to make shadesails and they have to do with how the perimeter of the sail is made. 1. Webbing Perimeter: Typically a webbing perimeter (similar to seatbelt material) is used for smaller shadesails. It can be sewn either into the hem or directly onto the edge of the fabric to act as the hem itself. Webbing shadesails work well in situations where the shadesail is intended to be put up and taken down on a regular basis. The shadesails don’t require as much tension to get them tight, they are lighter in weight and the webbing is easy to fold into a bag or box.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy 2. Continuous Cable: This is where a hem is sewn around the entire perimeter of the shadesail and then a cable is threaded all the way through. At one corner both ends of the cable overlap. Here there are two wire-rope grips. As the shadesail is tensioned, the cable slides around and finds its own natural position. Before any amount of tension is applied, the wire-rope grips are locked off and the tension is then transferred onto the perimeter cable. This is a very good system and is widely used. The downside is that for the DIY installer, it adds another level of difficulty, recognising the right moment to lock off the wire-rope grips. 3. Pre-Swagged Shadesails: ‘Swaging’ simply means pressing a metal clamp to form a loop at the end of a cable. Before shadesails were patterned by computer, it was almost impossible to pre-swage or lock off each corner of the internal cable because it was hard to match the stretch of the fabric to the length of the cable. Today, with modern technology this is possible and in fact is how my company makes almost all of our shadesails. The cable running around the perimeter is locked off at each corner. The great benefit of this apart from its inherent strength is the ease of installation particularly for the DIY installer.
Things to look for when ordering a shadesail There are a few key factors you should be across when considering who to order your new shadesail from. These include: 1. The Fabric: What type of fabric is the shadesail made from. Later on I’ve listed some of the more widely used fabrics. Essentially you need to be using a fabric which is designed for a tension application. Certain fabrics are made specifically for shadesails, however, many are not. 2. The Stitching: Consider what type of stitching is used. The stitching is one of the most common areas that a shadesail fails. We frequently get people bringing in cheap quality shadesails to ask if we can restitch the perimeter. When commissioning your new shadesail you should consider if the manufacturer is using a PTFE5 quality thread such as Tenara. Although using this high strength, long life type of stitching adds considerably to the overall price, it is almost certainly worth it. You don’t want to be taking your shadesail down and back to the factory for restitching after just a few years. Personally I’d insist on the sail being made with a UV stabilised thread.
5
Polytetrafluoroethylene
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy 3. The Corners: If you know what you’re looking for you can really tell if you’re getting a high quality shadesail or not. The corners are a very important part of the sail itself as they take the majority of the load. The perimeter cables or webbing will come to some sort of ring at the corner. This ring should be heavy duty and should be stainless steel. Supporting the ring there should be a webbing strap which is sewn back into the fabric. This keeps the ring straight as well as giving additional support. One thing we’ve done with all our shadesails is to build in what we call “Cyclonic Corners”. This type of corner has an additional layer of fabric sewn into the corner (called “Doublers”) with extra stitching to stiffen the corner up and make it really strong. If the stitching is inadequate or the corner isn’t reinforced, you’re almost certainly going to get a failure in strong winds. Pre-Swaged Corner This photo shows the stainless steel wire in the hem and the mechanical swage. The swage is pressed onto the wire cable and locked place. Pre-swaged shadesails are very strong and very easy for the DIY’er to fit. Before shadesails were plotted on computers it wasn’t possible to cut the wire and lock it off in exactly the correct position.
Shadesail Corner The corner is the place where everything comes together in a shadesail and where you are able to really assess the workmanship of a good quality sail. Look for: • A heavy-duty stainless steel ring • Webbing which has been doubled holding the ring to the sail • Additional stitching at the corner to make it strong. • Two lines of stitching around the hem of the sail • A heavy-duty stainless steel wire rope sewn into the hem • Overall neat workmanship
Here are some other important features you should look for when ordering a new shadesail.
Shape Shadesails work best when they are a relatively symmetrical shape. For example a six metre by seven metre sail is relatively symmetrical and works really well whereas one which is say seven metres x three metres is asymmetrical and doesn’t work so well. The reason for this is the curved edges.
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TAKE NOTE The rule of thumb is a shadesail should be at least half as wide as it is long.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy In a symmetrical sail the curvature of the sail is minimized across its entire shape. On a sail which is long and narrow, the curved edges on the long side are greatly accentuated and the end result is a long sail with a narrow centre. One way to overcome this is to add additional attachment points. If for instance the area you wished to cover was seven metres by three metres you could add an additional attachment point mid-way along the seven metre side to minimise the curvature. This would result in two smaller scallops rather than one deep one. The downside of this is that it makes manufacture and installation more complicated. If you look at the measuring guide in the appendices for a six point sail you will see that you need to take a set of 15 individual measurements (instead of six for a standard four point sail). If even one of these measurements is wrong the sail can’t be made and you will need to go through the time-consuming process of remeasuring. Also, adding additional attachment points adds extra cost to the sail due to the additional processes involved in manufacture.
Long shadesail with mid-attachment point
Size As a DIY shadesail installer we would recommend that you don’t tackle a shadesail any bigger than 10 x 10 metres. The main reasons for this are: 1. Firstly, because the bigger the shadesail the deeper the holes, the heavier the columns and the harder it will be to tension the shadesail. 2. Big shadesails can be quite difficult to fit. Often times a small block and tackle is required to get them tight and most DIY’ers don’t usually have this kind of equipment.
Shade cloth Fabric Shadesails, also known as shade cloth sails are made from an advanced polymer material called Polyethylene. The type of fabric which is suitable for tensioning applications is a knitted (not woven) construction. Thin strands called monofilaments, a bit like fishing line, are knitted together on large machines to create a very strong mesh. Depending on the brand and application, sometimes a flat tape is knitted into the fabric which is designed to increase the shade factor of the cloth whilst minimising the GSM (grams per square metre) or weight of the fabric. Each strand of the fabric is treated with UV stabilizing agents so that the material is impervious to the harsh UV rays it will be exposed to. Over the last decade great advances have been made with the pigmentation of the material so that it remains colour fast for its entire lifespan. Not so long ago if you installed a black shadesail within just a few years it you would look up to see that it was now a motely shade of elephant grey. With most of the leading fabrics today, this won’t happen. If you buy a black shadesail, after a decade, it will still be black. Some fabrics are further treated with fire retardant agents. Below is a summary of some of the most widely used brands of commercial shadecloth suitable for shadesails and when you are looking to install your own shadesail the brand you choose should be well proven in the market place.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy You’ll notice that most shade cloth fabrics today extend a 10 Year Pro-Rata warranty. This simply means that if after nine years the fabric fails and you make a warranty claim, the manufacturer will make an assessment and if deemed a legitimate warranty claim will credit you back one years value only. Brand
Synthesis
UV Degradation Warranty 10 yr. Pro rata
Monotec
10 year UV Warranty
Rainbow Z16
10 Year Pro rata
Coolaroo
Usually 5 Year Pro rata
PolyFab
10 Year Pro rata
General Comments
Gale Pacific manufactures the Synthesis Range of shadecloth. The Synthesis Shadecloth Range utilises the latest technologies to combine High Density Polyethylene, advanced Ultra Violet (UV) stabilisers and pigments and the latest manufacturing techniques to produce a broad range of shadecloth for a number of applications. Included in the range are: Synthesis AF-230 A lighter weight shadecloth for smaller projects Commercial 95: A heavy duty, high shade factor fabric that continues to perform in the hot Australian sun. It features high shade factors of 95% (depending on colour) making it widely suitable to applications such as playground shade. AF-350: Gale Pacific’s extra heavy duty shadecloth built for large shade applications http://www.synthesisfabrics.com Australian made, the Monotec 370 series is a very high strength shade cloth. Stiff and heavy to touch with little stretch this fabric offers an extensive range of colours including many very bright colours such as lime, orange etc. It ranges in shade factors from 50% to a maximum of 90%. http://www.monotec.com.au A widely used fabric that has proven itself over decades of use. Extensive range of colours. Best suited to small to medium shadesails as it can stretch in some high wind or larger applications. It has been rated up to 99% UV block http://www.rainbowshade.com.au This is Gale Pacific’s retail or domestic shadecloth brand. It is primarily used for shadecloth blinds, pergola covers etc. Smaller ready made (imported) shadesails are available in the material. The UV rating is usually a maximum 90% in a limited colour range. http://www.coolaroo.com Polyfab supplies a range of high quality shadecloths including: Architec 400: An extremely strong product made for very large shadesail jobs Comshade: A heavy duty knitted shadecloth designed for commercial and heavy duty shade applications FR Comshade: A shadecloth with fire retardant properties PolyFX: A knitted shadecloth suited to smaller shadesail applications such as covering pools and courtyards. http://www.polyfab.com.au
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy UVR Block VS Shade Factor Shade cloth is rated by both its UVR Block and its Shade Factor and these terms can be confusing. Shade factor refers to the amount of shade being cast. For instance a solid brick wall would cast a 100% shade factor (a shadow) where as say a vine over a trellis might only cast a 50% shade factor. You can roughly gauge the shade factor by looking at the shade/shadow on the ground. If you stood in the shadow of a brick wall, your shadow would be invisible as it would blend into the complete shadow of the wall. In the picture below, photo A shows a person standing in complete sunlight and their shadow is crisp and clear. In photo B they are standing under a shadesail. Their shadow is now obscured by the shadecloth. The shade factor of the cloth is high (maybe 90%) but not absolute. In photo C they are standing almost in complete shade – their shadow is barely visible. The shade factor in Photo C would be the highest.
A high Shade Factor is important when selecting which shadecloth to use for a shadesail. A material with a high shade factor creates a cool and welcoming shade area. Shade factor, however, doesn’t directly relate to Ultraviolet Radiation Block or UVR Block. UVR Block is a measure of how much potentially harmful radiation is reduced, or blocked by a fabric or cloth. UVR block is an important measurement to understand when it comes to shade cloth because it is UV radiation which leads to sunburn, skin damage and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. A UVR rating of 94% is the recommended minimum UVR block you should be looking for when choosing the brand of shadecloth for your shadesail. The table below shows the technical data of Synthesis Commercial 95 Shadecloth. This is one of the main reasons why my business has continued using it for all these years. Look at the column to the far right and you can see that the tested % of UVR Block for most colours is very high. Most of the colours test above the 94% level meaning that in test conditions this was the percentage of Ultra Violet Radiation (in the 290nm – 400nm spectrum range) which was absorbed or blocked by the shadecloth.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
Shadesail Colours Shadesails today come in virtually every popular colour. Different manufacturers have different colour ranges so if you are after a specific colour you can advise your shadesail manufacturer or do some research online yourself by visiting some of the fabric manufacturers’ websites. This chart shows a selection of the common colours available in Rainbow Z16. I’ve found over the years that very light colours including White, Champagne, Natural can produce glare, especially over pale coloured paved areas or around swimming pools. Also, some of the Champagne / Natural colours can look more yellow than anticipated. Without a doubt, the most popular colour is Desert Sand. It is a neutral colour which blends in with most surroundings. It has a high UV rating and doesn’t show the dirt like some colours. Most of the colours are fade-proof although I have noticed over the years that Red can fade more than any other colour.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Shadesail Designs The Hypar Design The most widely used design for shadesails is to have diagonally opposite high and low posts. This creates a 3-D twist in the sail or what is commonly known as a “hypar6”. On the example sail here you can see how this is achieved. Posts A and C are the high posts whilst Posts B and D are the low. This diagonally opposite installation method is the simple yet effective way that shadesails achieve such an interesting architectural effect. This twist creates a kind of 3-D effect and apart from the obviously striking visual appeal, it achieves several other important outcomes. 1. It allows the sail to be more evenly tensioned 2. It disperses water in heavy downpours 3. It allows the low points to be positioned toward the direction of the sun and thus cast the shade back into the area it is required at the time it is most needed. When planning to install a hypar sail there are a number of steps to follow to achieve a great result.
TAKE NOTE A flat sail is a poor design. It will be hard to tension, look unprofessional, collect debris and in a hail storm may collect a large quantity of hail putting pressure on attachment points. Always design your shadesail with at least one point higher than the rest.
The place to start is to decide the height above ground of the low columns. This can vary greatly depending on what you are covering but as a general rule, the low posts should be set as low as practical. This goes to creating maximum shade efficiency. The lower the posts, the less sunlight is allowed to get in and the better coverage you will achieve. It is usually not recommended to set the posts any lower than 2.1 metres. In some council areas this is a necessary regulation but in practical terms, 2.2 metres is a good height for the low posts of a shadesail. It caters well for even very tall people whilst not seeming to be too low when you are under it. The next step is to decide in which configuration you are going to orient the sail. If it is important to you to have shade in the mornings then set one of the low points toward the east7. That way you minimize the morning sun cutting under the edge of the sail. Next we need to determine the heights of the high posts. There is quite a simple formula for doing this.
6 7
Hyper is short for Hyperbolic Parabola which is essentially a twisted effect southern hemisphere
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
Calculating the Hypar Take the length of the longest side of the shadesail and multiply it by 15%. For example, if you are installing a shadesail and the longest side is 7 metres: 7000mm x 15% = 1050mm You now just add the answer to the height of your low post. 2200mm + 1050mm = 3250mm You now know that if you set your low posts at 2.2 metres high you should set your high posts at 3.25 metres high. This formula is geared to achieve a striking but not overly dramatic hypar effect. It is perfect for use in most domestic situations as it balances shade efficiency with aesthetic effect. If you want to achieve a more dramatic effect they you can increase the variance in height from 15% to say 20%. Using the same size sail as above is would be the difference: 7000 x 20% = 1400 2.2m +1.4m = 3.6m The following example photos contrast this effect and give you a good idea of how the finished sails differ. This sail give a good example of a gentle hypar with roughly a 15% variance in height between the high and low posts. It still achieves the 3-D twisted effect without the high posts being to high and letting to much sun in.
Gentle Hypar
This is a photo of a shadesail with a more dramatic hypar. The high and low posts are considerably different in height. The design brief from the director of this childcare facility was to install something that was very visually striking.
Dramatic Hypar
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
Other Designs High Point Sails Another common design which works well is the High Point Sail. This works by installing one tall column (or attachment point) and three low points. There are several benefits to this: 1. The sail is very shade efficient as it minimises the areas where the sun can cut under the edge of the sail 2. It still maintains an interesting visual effect 3. The high point directs a run-off of heavy rain or even hail which will minimise the likelihood of water pooling in the middle and causing the sail to sag which can lead to structural failure (i.e. the attachment points failing, the sail ripping or the posts bending)
High Point Sail
Awning or Skillion Design As opposed to a hypar design where the high and low posts are diagonally opposite each other, an Awning design is simply where the high posts are set together at one end and the low posts at the other end. The example below show a shadesail with two high points attached back to the building stretching out to two lower columns in the driveway.
Skillion or Awning Design
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy This design still achieves the necessary fall across the length of the shadesail. Many people would consider this not as visually striking as a Hypar design but in some situations such as the one shown, it is simply the most practical.
Triangular Shadesails This is it - the biggest, or at least in our experience, the most common mistake people make when installing a shadesail for the first time. They think they should install a triangular or multiple triangular shadesails that cross-over. Read on and see why this is a recipe for disappointment. If this book could achieve only one thing it would be to dissuade you from installing a triangular shadesail. The fact is, triangular shadesails don’t work. When I say that they don’t work, I mean that in the context of providing adequate shade. If you are looking for a purely visual effect then you might want to consider installing one but if your goal is to create a quality shade area for a pool or outdoor entertaining area, I strongly recommend that you do not install a triangular shadesail. I will tell you why. As we’ve discussed, shadesails are made with curved or cutinary edges. This is necessary to ensure they tension up correctly. Naturally, triangular shadesails are also made with curved edges. This curvature cuts deeply into the shade area of the triangle. The loss of shade area is particularly bad in shadesails which have sides of markedly different lengths. What tends to happen is you are left with a long narrow strip of fabric which provides virtually no usable shade. In the industry this is often referred to as the G-String effect. The examples below clearly demonstrate this point. The first example is of a shadesail that I personally installed but did not design. The posts were installed by a builder who thought he knew everything there was to know about shadesails. He sent me the measurements and although I mentioned to him that he wasn’t going to get a great result, he persisted with his design. His objective here was to provide shade to this outdoor table which you can see here. After I’d fitted the sail for him (and while he was having a lie down having made such a big mistake) I climbed up on his roof and took this photo. It is a good example of a very bad example of shadesail design and one I am doing my best to help you avoid. Many people plan is to install two triangular shadesails instead of a single rectangular sail as they ‘just like the look’ of the triangles. The truth is they don’t know what disaster they are actually planning. The photo below shows an installation where four columns have been installed and rather than installing a normal hypar sail which would have done a really nice job, the person has chosen to get a bit clever and install two triangular shadesails to give a more interesting effect. Not only are two triangles significantly more expensive than one rectangle, notice the big gap between the two sails where the sun will stream straight through. Notice also the long narrow strips of fabric as the sails taper toward the point creating almost zero shade.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
Below is another example where the ‘designer’ needed to cover a large outdoor space with shade and instead of installing a series of hypar sails, he chose to install a series of large triangles. The glaring issue I see here is of course the large gaps between the sails created by the cutinary edges.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Reasons not to install a triangle shadesail: • • •
You will get minimal shade coverage especially if the sides are of different lengths (i.e., a long narrow triangle) Triangular shadesails are relatively expensive. For a minor incremental increase in cost you achieve significantly greater shade with a rectangular shape. They require considerable more tension to get them tight
Another thing I’ve noticed over the years is that when people see shadesails similar to the beautiful courtyard hypar sail in this photo, the actually think that it is two triangles when in fact it is simply a single hypar sail. I think you can clearly see that this shadesail has many advantages over two triangle shadesails. Let me restate them: •
• • • •
It is less expensive than two triangular sails It requires less tension on the attachment points to get it installed tight It gives a lot more shade coverage than two triangular shadesail would It doesn’t allow light to come into the central area where the shade is needed most It still achieves the architectural hypar look which so many people desire
This sail below was originally going to be a triangle. The owners of this home had small children and they wanted to provide shade in the courtyard where the children spent quite a bit of time playing. After quite a bit of convincing we agreed to add a 4th attachment point. Even though the sail is quite narrow at the end nearest the white door, you can see how much better value they achieved by putting in this extra attachment point. I know, and by now I think you do as well, that if they had in fact gone with their original idea of a triangle, they would have been bitterly disappointed. As a final comment on triangular shadesails I would say that they are acceptable if the triangle is equilateral - that is all sides are the same length. In this instance the cutinary is minimised and a portion of usable coverage is maintained.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Other Shadesail Designs So far we’ve talked about standard four point shadesails. These are the best and easiest for DIY shade sail installers to start with because if you follow the clear guidelines given here you are going to end up with a great result. Many people, however, want to get a bit more technical or their site may require some of the more advanced options available with shadesails. Here we will cover some of those techniques. Sail-track Edges Sail-track is commonly used on smaller sails where a straight edge along a wall is required. The sail-track is fitted onto the wall creating a long straight groove. When the shadesail is made a rope or “Kedar” edge is stitched into one hem of the sail. This allows it to slide into the sail-track and create a straight side. Sail-track edge sails can serve a useful function in some situations as they do away with one of the curved edges of the sail. Generally they aren’t suited to sails that have an extension (i.e. extend out from the wall) much greater than 4-5 metres as the track isn’t strong enough to hold the sail in place. Sails with sail-track edges also require greater tensioning than sails without as they are lacking one cutinary edge and thus the other three edges have to take up the slack. Not all walls are suited to having this extra tension applied to them. Five Point Sails In instances where the sail is going to be quite long and narrow, say seven metres long by only three metres wide, additional attachment points (over the standard four corners) are a good way to minimise the curvature of the sail. In this example we added an additional attachment point to the side along the house. This helped spread the load on the wall as well as minimise the curvature along that side giving greater coverage. What works best is to make the middle attachment point some half a metre higher than the outer attachments. This helps with tensioning and also improves to the visual effect of the sail. Six Point Sails Six point sails can also work really well and are an effective shadesail design. They work best where the area to cover is relatively long and narrow. installing them as hypar design such as in this photo works well where the posts are alternatively high and low along the length of the sail. Alternatively, making the central posts the two high columns also works well with the lower columns on the outer edges. What I like to do with 6 point sails is to make the two central posts direct attach, that is, I don’t use a turnbuckle at these two points but rather just two extended shackles. When fitting the sail I recommend first fitting the two central points and then tensioning out to the edges afterwards.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Sails with More than Six Points Sometimes, the best way to get the job done is to install a shadesail with even more than six points of attachment. Right is an illustration of an eight point sail I put into a Dog Boarding Kennel. Due to the design of the dog-runs the owner wanted to cover all of them with a single sail. The sail itself ended up being 6 metres wide by 24 metres long. It was particularly tricky to install (due to barbed wire fences between each of the dog runs) but in the end it came up beautifully. I did it as a single sail in order to give the most coverage possible to the area. The sail was done as a multiple hypar, that is high and low points opposite each other all way along. The benefit of doing a sail like this is to best maximum coverage. The downside is a very detailed process to actually measure-up for the shadesail. I would strongly recommend against this kind of design for a first time installation. Double or Cross-Over Shadesails Lots of people I speak with love the look of cross-over or one shadesail on top of another. Granted this can look great, especially if the colours of the sails are contrasted. If you’re planning to do something along these lines you need to be aware that there is some additional planning required. Playground Shadesails I make a point here of discussing some very poorly designed playground shadesails I have seen over the years and make particular note of a commonly used design which simply doesn’t deliver. Playground sails are by their nature designed to achieve two main objectives; 1. Provide quality shade to the children (and adults) using the area 2. Look spectacular and create a visually inviting play space. My observation is that most people involved in the planning process often forget about point 1 and focus on point 2. It is my contention that this is a mistake. Function must take precedence over form in this situation. The objective is to protect young sensitive skins from harsh UV radiation and the use of style over substance lets the entire shade industry down.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy The design I refer to which is particularly guilty of achieving “pretty” over “practical” is this; where a tall post is installed in the centre with a ring of lower outer posts set around it. The central post acts as the attachment for multiple triangles which are tensioned out to the lower posts set around it. The photo above is an example of what I’m talking about. Here we have an elaborate children’s playground area which has had some very ineffectual (and very expensive) shade sails installed. Observe the massive gaps between the shadesails where the light can enter. Walking up close to the central column where the triangle sails come to their narrowest point there is virtually no usable shade what-so-ever. Granted this is a visually striking design but as far as providing useable shade are for children to safely play under on hot days, it is all but useless. Side-shades So far we’ve discussed shadesails as being overhead but this does not necessarily need to be the case. Vertical or side shades can work perfectly well and look great as well. Sometimes, a side or vertical shade is a better solution than an overhead shade. This design is particularly useful where you need to block the morning or afternoon sun and where a horizontal or overhead shade just isn’t going to get the job done. The principles of designing and installing side shades are more or less the same as those of overhead shadesails. The main caveat I would offer here is to ensure everything is made very strong, particularly the footings or foundations. This is of course because side shades catch a lot more wind than overhead shades, essentially acting in a not dissimilar fashion as a sail on a yacht. If a small sail and a light breeze can pull a boat along then certainly there is a great deal of force exerted across the sheet and strength is imperative. This sails has a column on one side and on the other it is anchored back to a building. Personally I would not be to comfortable anchoring a sail of this design to a building without independent engineer certification. It is difficult to gauge the suitability and strength of an existing building or structure, however, you can easily identify the strength and capacity of steel posts concreted into the ground.8
8
Although I don’t have any specific engineering for this type of sail, my rule of thumb is always make them freestanding (i.e. columns in holes as opposed to attaching to existing structures such as walls) and when referencing the size of the posts and the footings, always beef them up by going to the engineering specification above what is recommended for a an overhead shadesail.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Waterproof Shadesails Waterproof shadesails are difficult and present many traps for DIY’ers. The bottom-line is if you’ve never installed a shadesail before, then a waterproof shadesail is not the place to start. Let’s address some of the reasons why: •
• •
• • •
Unlike shadesails, waterproof shadesails are made from a solid type of fabric, usually a PVC material. PVC is much heavier than shadecloth therefore it requires considerably greater tensioning. PVC is a solid fabric with no give or stretch therefore to get a vinyl sail measured and installed without any wrinkles requires much greater skill than shade cloth. The most common mistake with waterproof shadesails is not allowing adequate fall across the surface of the sail. I recommended a 15% variance in height for a shade cloth shadesail as an effective standard. With a waterproof shadesail, this would be the minimum you would need. The reason of course is that without adequate fall, water will quickly pool in the middle or around the lip turning it from a sail into a sump. This loads up the attachment points causing dangerous and dramatic failures of columns, walls or any other fixture. Also, once stretched PVC fabric remains stretched and will not go back to the original shape like shadecloth. Waterproof shadesails, unlike shadecloth sails do not allow wind to pass through and therefore even a slight breeze is transferred into a strong force against the sail. That means that the attachment points must be much more strongly engineered that for a normal shadecloth sail. As mentioned earlier, PVC is a much heavier material than shadecloth and therefore requires greater tension. This is achieved in several ways o Stronger attachment points o Stronger tensioning equipment (chains, turnbuckles etc.) o A requirement for a greater cutinary edge. Unlike with shadecloth sail, the cutinary can be as little as 4-5%, with a PVC sail this should be increased to at least double that. This results in (surprisingly) less overall coverage o Waterproof shadesails are much more expensive overall. I’ve quoted out jobs where the cost of installing a PVC sail was double that of a shadecloth sail.
In summary, this book does not cover waterproof shadesail as they are a specialised type of work. My experience is that if you really want the area to be waterproof and you really want it to be a shadesail then you should contact a very experienced company in your area and get them to do the job for you.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Other Design Ideas Following are just a few more for shapes and design ideas that you might also find useful.
Different shapes and installation patterns.
A series of sails in an interesting pattern
Concept plan for a double layered shadesail installation using contrasting colours.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 4: Installing the Attachment Points The attachment points provide the structural foundation for the shadesail and as such are equally as important as the shadesail itself. More than any other factor, this is where most DIY shadesail installers come unstuck – they simply under specify the strength of their attachment points and the overall job fails to live up to their expectations. In a perfect world shadesails work best when the attachment points are poles in holes where you have full control of how deep the hole and how strong the column is. However, you may want to consider attaching at least one corner to and existing structure such as your roof, wall or fascia. We’ll discuss when and where to do this and when and where not to. We’ll also look at a selection if innovative shadesail attachment points that people have used and discuss the relative merits and drawbacks of each. Poles in Holes We recommend using steel columns and not timber. It is almost impossible to gauge the strength of a timber post as not all timber is created equal. Timber posts bend, bow, flex and, eventually BREAK. For any decent sized shadesail, unless you’re thinking about using something the size of a telegraph column, you are going to run into trouble. Steel posts can be measured and the strength assessed according to set specifications. Below you will see a table you can use to select the correct size column to match the size of the shadesail you are planning. Most people are greatly surprised when we tell them just how big the columns need to be and how deep the holes need to be in order to safely support the shadesail. Without this knowledge the layman takes a guess at the size of his columns and depth of his holes and invariably, underestimates and after the first strong wind the columns move and the sail sags.
1.
What you need to know about Steel Columns Let’s quickly discuss a bit of industry jargon so that when you go to order your posts you get it right.
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2.
The timber posts bent and broke on this small shadesail after only a couple of months.
3.
4.
1. RHS: Rectangular Hollow Section 2. CHS: Circular Hollow Section 3. SHS: Square Hollow Section 4. NB: Nominal Bore
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Definitions SHS = Square Hollow Section CHS = Circular Hollow Section RHS = Round Hollow Section OD = Outside Diameter NB = Nominal Bore or internal diameter Grade: 350 Grade steel is recommended as it is considered to be structural grade steel. 250 Grade steel is less expensive but it does not have the strength of 350 Column Detail
Column Detail
Knock-on Metal Cap Eyebolt 40mm from top Steel column Size as specified
H ei gh t Column setback 2°- 4° from Vertical
D ep th
Concrete Footing Anti-twist Anti-lift bar Diameter
Paver to stop sinking
This chart shows the basic column detail. The eyebolt should be set down approx. 40mm from the top. A knock-on cap should be fitted to seal the column. Approximately 30cm from the bottom of the column, drill a hole through and fit a piece of reo-bar or galvanised 12mm dia rod. This help anchor the column into the concrete. Place a paver in the bottom of the hole to prevent the column sinking. After pouring the concrete orientate the eyebolt toward its diagonal opposite. I also recommend tilting the column back just a fraction. That way, when the tension is on it and the top of the column flexes in slightly if you’ve set it back, the job will come into plumb. If you don’t do this it can look like the column slants inwards which doesn’t look good.
My preference is to use circular steel columns. The reason is because CHS pipe is readily available and because when installed, I think they look the most impressive. The following chart will guide you in selecting the correct size columns for the size of the sail you are intending to install. My experience is that engineers talk in OD whilst steel merchants talk in NB so it’s important that you know which is which and what you’re getting.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Structural Engineering Detail The following chart is a simple easy to follow ready-reckoner for you to use. All the steel sizes are industry standard and should be readily available.9 Reading the Chart To use the chart firstly determine how long the longest side of your shadesail is going to be. Then, reading across, check the column size you will need. If for example you are installing a shadesail which is 6 x 7 metres you will need columns which are 114.3 x 4.5 CHS. 114.3 refers to the outside diameter of the pipe. 4.5 refers to the wall thickness. Next check the footing for hole size you need to dig. In this instance the diameter of the hole would be 400mm and the depth would be 1350. Finally check to see what the maximum allowable height of the high column can be. STRUCTURAL DETAIL CHART COLUMN SIZE FOR SHADECLOTH SAILS – CIRCULAR STEEL POSTS Square/Rectangular shadecloth sail with the longest side up to: 4 metres 7 metres 10 metres 12 metres
Column Size
Footing Size Dia x Depth in mm
Maximum Column Height above ground in metres
101.6 x 4.0 CHS 114.3 x 4.5 CHS 139.7 x 5.0 CHS 165.1 x 5.0 CHS
400 x 1050 400 x 1350 500 x 1500 600 x 1700
2.8m 3.25m 4.0m 4.4m
**Notes on Column & Footing Sizes: • • • • • •
9
All columns to be of C350 grade Circular Hollow Sections (pipes). All columns should be galvanised steel. Typically the low post will be set at 2.2m AGL (above ground level) Engineering is for W30 wind regions. Typically this is suburban regions not in cyclone areas and not located in exposed area or hills. Footing detail assumes firm natural ground. If digging into backfill or uncompacted soil, the footing sizes will need to be increased Columns supporting double connections should be increased to the next size column and the diameter of the hole should be increased by 100mm.
If you require specific engineering details to submit to Council contact:
[email protected]
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy If you would prefer to use square columns (SHS) instead of round columns (CHS) refer to the chart below. The same constraints as the previous chart apply. STRUCTURAL DETAIL CHART COLUMN SIZE FOR SHADECLOTH SAILS – SQUARE HOLLOW SECTION Square/Rectangular shadecloth sail with the longest side up to: 5 metres 8 metres 10 metres
Column Size
Footing Size Dia x Depth in mm
Maximum Column Height above ground in metres
75 x 75 x 5 SHS 100 x 100 x 5 SHS 125 x 125 x 5 SHS
400 x 1050 400 x 1350 500 x 1500
2.8m 3.3m 4.0m
**Notes on Column & Footing Sizes: • • • • • •
All columns to be of 350 grade Square Hollow Sections (SHS). All columns should be galvanised steel. Typically the low post will be set at 2.2m AGL (above ground level) Engineering is for W30 wind regions. Typically this is suburban regions not in cyclone areas and not located in exposed area or hills. Footing detail assumes firm natural ground. If digging into backfill or uncompacted soil, the footing sizes will need to be increased Columns supporting double connections should be increased to the next size column and the diameter of the hole should be increased by 100mm.
Important Safety Note: Shadesails are not designed to be installed in areas where extreme weather events such as very high winds, snow or hail are likely to occur. Such circumstances can cause structural failure as well as irreparable damage to the shadesail itself. In the instance where an extreme weather event is likely or predicted, the shadesail should be removed ahead of time Ordering The Columns The best way to do this is to contact a steel merchant in your area and have them cut the columns to the length you require. Order the knock-on metal caps from the same steel merchant. If you are happy to go with just galvanised steel columns you can arrange for the steel merchant to deliver them directly to you. If however you would prefer to match the colour of the columns to say the existing fencing then you’re probably going to want to consider getting them powdercoated. Powdercoating is a process where by an electrical charge is applies to the metal and then a powder is sprayed onto the steel and baked on. It give a long lasting result and also makes the whole job look better. In this instance, you will need to co-ordinate with the steel merchant to deliver the columns to the powdercoater. Make sure your columns are drilled before they are powdercoated (refer below). Once the Powdercoating has been done you will then need to have the powdercoater deliver the finished columns to the job-site. Not all powdercoaters offer a delivery service.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Equipping the Columns The final thing to do in readiness for installing the columns is to fit or equip the columns with the eyebolts and anti-twist/anti lift bars and top caps. The easiest way for the DIY’er to fit the eyebolt is to use an “Eyebolt with Collar” assembly. Drill a hole approximately 40mm from the top through one face of the column and fit the eyebolt. You can now fit the knock-on cap. Refer to the Turnbuckle and Hardware Table further on to select the appropriate sizes. The anti-twist/anti lift bar is important because it helps lock the steel column into the concrete itself. Drill a hole approx. 300mm from the bottom of the column and insert the rod. Use a heavy duty rod of at least 12mm dia galvanised steel here. Make sure the rod is tight in the hole and doesn’t fall out when you’re lowering the column into the hole. Digging the Holes Before even starting to dig the holes, it is absolutely imperative that you determine if there are any underground services in the area. This can include sewerage lines and other pipes as well as telephone and electrical cables. WARNING: NEVER DIG BEFORE ENSURING THE AREA IS CLEAR OF CABLES AND PIPES There are a number of ways to check this. • • • •
Do a visual check. Follow any pipes, cables or conduits and see if it looks like they are going to be in the vicinity of where you want to dig. Review the plans of the property. Often times they clearly mark where the pipes and services are. Contact “Dial Before you Dig” 1100.com.au10. This is a free service and can be a useful tool to check where underground services are located. Contact an underground detection service company. They use sonar and other devices to locate where pipes and cables may be located. This is a paid service but if you are in any doubt as to the location of cables or pipes it is well worth it.
At the end of the day, exercise extreme caution when digging into the ground. Not all services give accurate readings and cables and pipes tend to be in the most unexpected places. Getting the holes wrong for their columns is the probably the second most common mistake people make and the main reason that amateur shadesail installers end up with wonky columns and sagging sails. They simply don’t realise how much force shadesails actually generate, especially when it’s windy. I’ve see it so many times where the
10
Relevant to Australia only. Other countries will have different organisations to perform these functions.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy shadesail has become lose because the columns have moved in the ground. When I ask, “How deep did you make the footings?” they typically say to me, (and this includes experienced builders), “Oh about 50cm – that should have been deep enough, shouldn’t it?” The answer is “no” and you’ll have noticed in the Structural Detail Charts on previous pages that even a small shadesail needs the columns to be dug in at least one metre. Let me emphasis this point here again because it will save you a whole lot of trouble later on trying to dig down the side and add more concrete – Don’t try and shortcut by digging shallow holes for your columns. An important point to plan for is also what you intend to do with the soil that you dig out of the holes. Sometimes it can be disposed of on-site by spreading it around a garden bed etc. but usually the soil which comes out of the holes has a high content of clay and some rocks. If you don’t have anywhere to get rid of it, you’re going to need to think of another solution. Hiring a skip bin is a simple way to deal with this issue. You can dig the holes by hand with a shovel and crowbar although that’s pretty hard work. I’ve used the augers that you can hire from Hire Shops but they require two people to manage and if the auger gets snagged on a tree-root they tend to spin the handle out of your grip and can be quite dangerous. The easiest way is to hire a contractor with mini-digger to come in and get the job done for you. “Dingo” is a well known brand and if you Google “dingo hire” or “hire mini digger” your likely to find someone who’ll be happy to come and do the job for you. Once the holes have been dug they can also remove the auger and put the bucket on and clean up all the soil as well. Note: If you’ve dug the holes ahead of time it is wise to cover them if you think it’s going to rain. If the columns fill with water it not only makes the job much messier but it can adversely affect the curing of the concrete. Standing The Columns Once the eyebolts, anti-twist anti -lift bars and caps have been fitted, the columns are ready to stand. The steel columns are heavy so it helps to have plenty of manpower onsite when this is being done. Carry the columns into position Handy Tip: When you’re putting the and using a timber plank as shown, slide the column into the hole, position a plank so columns into the vertical position. that column can slide down it rather than the edge of the hole. This just prevents scraping soil into the bottom of the hole.
Once the columns are in position, you’re now ready to pour the concrete. Many people confuse the terms “concrete” and “cement”. Cement, along with water and aggregate (gravel) is an ingredient of concrete. It’s concrete that you need to fill the holes with, not cement. If you’re purchasing bagged product from a hardware supplier you can buy pre-mixed concrete (minus the water) for the job. If you’re ordering in ready-mixed then you should order minimum 20mpa strength. Many people ask if it’s
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy ok to use quick set or rapid set concrete and for this application we recommend against it. This is mainly because it lacks strength. Calculating Volume of Concrete Required To calculate the volume of concrete you are going to need I work it out as though the hole was a square not round. It works out to give you a little extra concrete but sometimes that bit extra really helps. Say the hole you dug was 50cm dia and 1.5m deep. To calculate how much concrete to order 0.5 x 0.5 x 1.5 = 0.375m3 If you have 4 holes you need 0.375m3 x 4 which means you need to order 1.5 cubic metres of concrete. Pouring the Concrete The concrete goes straight in and moulds around the steel column sitting in the hole. It can be mixed by hand using a wheelbarrow or it can be order in ready-mixed. Even if it is not possible to back the truck right up to the hole, barrowing it from the truck to the hole is usually much easier than mixing the concrete yourself by hand. Once the concrete has been poured into each hole you should stand and orient the column. Using a spirit level ensure the column is perfectly vertical. Orient the eyebolt toward the diagonal opposite column as this will be the direction of pull from the tensioned shadesail. It is always a good idea once the column is in this position just to angle it back about 2-4° Don't fill concrete to the very top. degrees. The reason for this is that if you set it perfectly Leave space to put soil back in vertical, once the shadesail is tensioned, the top of the column and re-grow grass. can flex inwards and it will look like you have set it out of plumb. It always looks better to have the column leaning back a bit than to have it leaning forward. You can angle it back further if you like – just be aware that if you angle a column back to far it can become hazard for people to walk into. Usually, the mass of the wet concrete is adequate to hold the column in position. If however it is a windy day or the concrete is not firm enough to hold the column vertical you may need to brace it in position so it can’t move. This will become more necessary when the holes are bigger. Other Types Of Attachment Points The end goal must be a structurally sound attachment point onto which you can attach and tension the shadesail. Here are some other common ways of achieving this.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Bolt-down Columns Often columns are bolted to an existing concrete slab rather than being dug into the ground. This is generally not recommended. Concrete slabs such as driveways are designed to bear heavy loads but not to have the pulling forces of something like a shadesail column. The likely result would be that the concrete would crack out or the bolts holding the column would fail and the whole structure would fail. Unless you seek advice from an engineer regarding the suitability of your specific concrete slab for this purpose, bolting down the column for a shadesail should not be done. It is preferable to core drill through the existing column slab. The cost of a core drill is usually less than the cost and problem of sourcing a bolt down base plate, gussets and welding to manufacture a bolt down column. Wall plates It is very common for people to think that a brick wall makes a solid and suitable attachment point for a shadesail. The fact is, this isn’t the case. Brick walls are built to carry loads from above, they are not designed to withstand pulling loads from side-on. Damage to the wall, and potential injury can occur when shadesails are bolted onto brick walls. Having said that, it is common for shadesail attachment points to be anchored to brick walls. The things which will minimise the risks in this situation include; • • • • • •
Using a large plate which spans multiple bricks Only using small shadesails in this area Removing the shadesail when not in use or in times of high wind Not over tensioning the shadesail Check to ensure the brickwork is adequately secured to the stud frame of the house Not attaching to close to the top of a brick wall but rather ensuring that there are multiple courses of bricks above the attachment point
Internal Corner Bracket
Other ways to attach to existing walls or structures include Corner brackets. On the left is a internal corner bracket which fits into a 90° corner. On the right is an external corner bracket which fits onto the outside corner where two walls meet. Because you are getting the strength of where the walls join corner brackets are considered more secure attachments than wall plates but again, they are only for small sails in sheltered areas.
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External Corner Bracket
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Posts onto Walls It is reasonably common to see posts attached to walls. In these examples the installer has used steel posts affixed at multiple locations up the wall. This theoretically spreads the load even more than a wall-plate. Warning: Unless you have had the wall certified strong enough by a structural engineer, this method is not recommended. The danger is that the entire wall could collapse causing damage and potential serious injury. Roof Mounting There are numerous type of brackets which can be affixed into a roof to create strong attachment points. The one shown here on the left is called a Shadesail Extenda Bracket. It is not suitable for large shadesails but is handy for smaller courtyard shadesails. Rafter Bracket Fitting Guide
The bracket shown here to the right is a simple rafter mast. It bolts onto the rafter and the mast extends up through the roofline creating a convenient attachment point.
Brief: Support-bracket designed to be fitted to eaves/rafters of appropriate timber-truss structures to support shadecloth sails not exceeding 5 metre spans. Rated for use in moderate wind conditions only. Kit Components 1 x timber support brace 90 x 40 x 650 mm 1 x steel fascia bracket - powdercoated 2 x metal elbow brackets - pre-drilled 11 x 70 mm coach bolts (1 spare)
Tools Required for fitting Drill with 7mm dia drill bit Timber saw Shifting spanner General tools
Plan View Coach bolts
Rafter
Rafter
Metal Elbow Mounting onto the Fascia
Timber Brace Not shown to scale
Fascia Board Fascia bracket fitted with coach bolts
Fitting Tips Access internal timber frame by lifting small section of roofline (ie tiles). Measure and cut timber brace so that it fits neatly between rafters. Mark holes so they line-up with pre-drilled holes in metal elbow brackets and drill using a 7 mm drill bit. Screw coach bolts into place as shown. Replace roofing. Fit fascia plate in position and drill through fascia board into timber brace. Attach fascia bracket using coach bolts. Attach shadesail to fascia bracket using appropriate fittings.
Copyright Shade Australia Pty Ltd 2002. Reproduction prohibited without written consent from Shade Australia.
The fascia board is the timber strip that typically runs around the outside of a house, usually beneath the gutters. Although the fascia board itself is not strong enough to mount a shadesail to, by getting in behind it and bracing it up you can create a pretty strong attachment point. A timber beam is placed in between two rafters and butted up against the inside of the fascia. Once secured into position an attachment point such as an eyebolt can be attached to the fascia board onto which you can secure a small shadesail. This bracket can be bolted along an internal rafter and the thread can protrude out through the fascia to create an attachment point.
Note: It is never strong enough just to screw an eyebolt through the fascia board and into the end of rafter, no matter what size the sail.
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Multiple Sails or Cross Over sails If you are going to simply have one sail on top of the other then the lower sail can simply mirror the one above, that is, all the attachment points should be an even distance below the attachment points of the sail above. With the double sails I’ve done I have allowed 200mm between the attachment points of the sails. This distance is needed to allow for the movement of the sails in the wind. It is important that the sails do not touch each other at any time. This will cause rubbing and fatigue. For these more straightforward double sails the method we use to get the attachment points in the correct positions is to use a series of stringlines. Tension the lower stringline into the plane where the lower shadesail sit and tie it off. Next do the same for the higher sail. You can now see clearly if you are going to have any problems. Typically the issues occur where the sails curve and cross-over. The stringlines will be a clear visual guide to show you if the sails are going to touch. At every point there should be at least 200mm clearance between the stringlines (i.e. the shadesails). Make the necessary adjustment to your stringlines. Once you are happy that you have adequate clearance between the sails, you can fit the attachment points and measure up for the sails themselves. If you are planning something more elaborate such as a cross-over design which calls for deep cutinary edges such as the two sails above then you need to work carefully with the sail-maker to plan the curvature. This can be quite complicated and is beyond the scope of this book to cover all the design criteria you need to consider. By now I think you know enough to make your first step finding an experienced sail-maker who is capable of doing more advanced designs and working with them right from the very start – well before any attachment points are installed! Together you can work-out the design using VR Plans and CAD diagrams. Columns & Footings When two sails come off a single column then the size and strength of that column and its footings need to be increased. If for example Structural Detail Chart says that you need a 114.5 x 5 CHS column for a single sail attachment and the footing needs to be 500mm dia. x 1400mm deep then if it was now supporting two sails instead of one would it need to be increased up to 139.5 x 5.0 CHS and the diameter of the footing will need to be increased out by 100mm to 600mm in dia. Important Note: The content of this book is prepared for the DIY’er and can really only cover the more standard designs and installations. More advanced designs are beyond it’s scope and require job-specific engineering, certification and design.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 5: Measuring Up for the Shadesail Taking accurate measurements for your new shadesail is critical if it is to fit correctly. In order to get the correct measurements we’ve included measuring guides at the end of this manual. Use the one which is relevant to you and send it to the company you are getting to manufacture your shadesail. They then transfer your measurements into their system and if one or more of the measurements is incorrect (i.e., if it does not draw up) they will advise you before they go ahead and manufacture your sail.
How to Measure Select the appropriate measuring sheet (i.e. a three point sail, four point sail, five point sail, or six point sail). Measuring for a shadesail requires at least two people and a tape measure long enough to span the longest diagonal. Start by designating one of the attachment points to be Point A. Work around in a clockwise direction allocation the remaining points as Point B, C D and so on. For a simple four point rectangular shadesail you simply need to take the point-to-point perimeter measurements between each attachment point. Once this is done, you will need to measure the diagonals. One person holds the end of the tape measure against the outside edge of the eyebolt. The other person pulls the tape taut and measure from/to the inner edge of the eyebolt. Record the measurement on the measuring sheet. Repeat until all measurements are complete.
Measure from the inside edge of the eyebolt
Next you will need to indicate the post heights (measured to the eyebolt). This is because a shadesail is made as a 3 Dimensional form. As the heights vary, the fabric needs to vary also. A Hypar shadesail is not like a flat piece of fabric, it must be patterned and this is why it is important to specify the heights.
Sometimes measuring the heights can be difficult to do because the ground is sloping. What you can do in this situation is to get a string line and run it around the posts. Use a spirit level to ensure it is level. Then measure from the string line to the eyebolt. What we’re really after here is the variance in the heights and not the actual heights themselves. For instance, if point A was 2.2 metres and points B,C and D were all 3 metres high, you could indicate on the measuring sheet that point A was 0 and points B, C and D were all 80cm. Finally, indicate which point you want to have the tag sewn onto. This is important because when you receive the sail and go to fit it, having a tag at a nominated point makes it quick and easy to orient the sail.
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Fold Direction of the Hems Typically, the hems of a shadesail face down. That is where the fabric is folded over and sewn. Some people like to have the hems on the topside of the sail as they prefer not to see the stitching from underneath. The downside of having the hem on the top-side is that as dirt etc. settles on the sail from above it tends to collect along the hem-line and after a time a dark mark appears. It’s up to you to check with your manufacturer as to which side they typically sew the hems and if you have a specific preference to advise them at the time you supply the measurements. You should receive from the shadesail supplier a diagram something like this. Here you can see the various characteristics of the shadesail. You will note in this example that the error measurement is 0.748%. This is because the CAD (Computer Aided Design) program we use to manufacture shadesails allows for only 0.05 or half of one percent error.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Take-Offs One thing which is important to understand is the Take-off Length. This is the length that the manufacturer takes off the measurements you have supplied in order to tension the shadesail. Normally this is not something you need to calculate yourself. There are normal take-offs which most manufacturers work out for you. Typically, shadesails have a turnbuckle or tensioning device fitted to each of the four corners. If there are more than four points of attachment then these additional points can be directly attached with a shackle to the eyebolt. There are occasions where you may wish to have one of the points directly attached to the eyebolt and you should specify this to your manufacturer. Tensioning Your Shadesail If your shadesail isn’t correctly tensioned it will sag, flap and fatigue. The most common way to tension a shadesail with the aid of turnbuckles. As a turnbuckle is unscrewed it gets longer. This allows it to extend and to hook loosely onto the corner of the shadesail and the eyebolt. Then, as it is screwed in again it becomes shorter applying tension the shadesail. Turnbuckles come in many different configurations and materials. Here we talk specifically about turnbuckles in three main types. Hook - Hook The hook is the weakest part and under high stress (such as strong winds) can open up. We use these for smaller sails. They are also useful in getting the sail close to the attachment point without using a shackle. Hook – Eye Obviously the eye is stronger than the hook. That is why we use a shackle through the eye onto the attachment point. If there is a failure, the first thing to give will be the hook end which is attached to the sail. If the hook straightens the sail will fall harmlessly at that corner whilst the turnbuckle will remain safely attached to the eyebolt. Jaw – Jaw These are the strongest configuration of turnbuckles and are fitted with spring-clips which prevent the pins from coming lose over time. ALWAYS REMEMBER WHEN USING STAINLESS STEEL TURNBUCKLES TO LUBRICATE THE THREADS BEFORE TENSIONING. AS STAINLESS STEEL IS TENSIONED IT HEATS UP AND IF NO LUBRICATION HAS BEEN APPLIED, THE THREAD WILL FUSE TO THE BODY OF THE TURNBUCKLE, A PROCESS CALLED “THREAD GALLING” RENDERING IT USELESS.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Turnbuckle & Hardware Selection It is important to match the correct hardware, that is the shackles, turnbuckles and eyebolt assemblies to the size of the shadesail you are installing. When ordering hardware for your shadesail refer to this chart to make the appropriate selection.
Turnbuckle & Hardware Selection
Domestic Situation Sail Size
Turnbuckles & Shackles
Eye Collar Nuts
Sails with the longest side up to 6 metres
8mm Hook/Hook Turnbuckles
M10 Eyebolts with Collar
Sails with the longest side up 8 metres
10mm Hook/Hook Turnbuckles
M12 Eyebolts with Collar
Sails with the longest side up to 9 metres
12mm Jaw/Jaw Turnbuckles
M12 Eyebolts with Collar
Turnbuckle & Hardware Selection
Commercial Situation Sail Size
Turnbuckles & Shackles
Eye Collar Nuts
Sails with the longest side up to 6 metres
8mm Hook/Eye Turnbuckles + 8mm D Shackles
M10 Eyebolts with Collar
Sails with the longest side up to 8 metres
10mm Hook/Eye Turnbuckles + 10mm D Shackles
M12 Eyebolts with Collar
Sails with the longest side up to 10 metres
12mm Jaw/Jaw Turnbuckles
M16 Eyebolts with Collar
Sails with longest side up to 12 metres
12mm stainless steel chain + 16mm D shackles
Heavy duty steel lug to be welded onto steel column (SWL to exceed 4500kN)
**Notes about this chart •
•
•
It is assumed that domestic situations are more sheltered than commercial situations and thus the wind loadings are slightly less. If in doubt always go up to the next size hardware. The only downside of this is the sail will slightly further away from the attachment point. The Chart refers to the Eyebolts with Collar Assembly (shown here) which are able to withstand greater loads than standard “welded eyebolts” or “Eye nut bolts”. The chart is based on locally sourced 316 marine grade stainless steel hardware. Hardware supplies purchased from other suppliers my not have the same strength loadings.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Important Rigging Note regarding the configuration when using HOOK/EYE turnbuckles and a D-Shackle. The D-shackle attaches to the eyebolt on the column and through the eye of the turnbuckle. It’s the hook of the turnbuckle that attaches to the shadesail itself. If there is ever a failure the hook of the turnbuckle will straighten allowing a corner of the shadesail to harmlessly drop whilst the turnbuckle will fall safely back against the post. I have seen it done the other way around and a flapping shadesail corner with a turnbuckle attached is potentially dangerous and destructive.
Hardware Guide We’ve talked about Turnbuckles previously. This chart gives a quick overview of some commonly used hardware in the shade industry. As a general rule stainless steel hardware is mostly used, firstly because it is easy to check its breaking strains and also because it really sets the finished job off and gives it a professional look.
Image & Name
General Description Welded Eyebolt
Eye Nut Bolts
Eye Bolts with Collars
Eye Nuts
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A general purpose eyebolt for general applications. They lack the strength of Eye Collar Nuts but can still be useful in a range of applications. General purpose attachment points. Again not as strong as Eye Collar Nuts but still very useful. Very useful as attachment for steel columns. Requirement to drill through one face of the column only and the bolt is inside the column hidden away. Typically used with threaded rod where a extended length is length of attachment is required.
Oblong Plates
Make attractive attachment points for smaller sails and can be screwed onto suitable existing structures such as timber beams.
D-Shackles
Widely used in the shade industry for rigging shadesails.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Bow Shackles
Extended Shackles
D-
Twist Shackles
Wall Plate
Stainless Chain
Steel
Rafter Mast
Widely used in the shade industry for rigging shadesails, they have a more elegant shape than D-Shackles. Similar load ratings to equivalent D Shackles Useful when directly attaching a shadesail and extra length is needed. Similar load ratings to equivalent D Shackles Useful for directly attaching a 5th attachment point of a shadesail or where the attachment point is horizontal not vertical. Similar load ratings to equivalent D Shackles Useful for creating an attachment point to suitable existing walls.
With very high working loads this stainless steel chain is used to rig larger shadesails. Suitable for installation to rafters to create an attachment point which sits up above a roofline.
Long Trace Wires Sometimes it isn’t practical, or possible to extend the corner of the shadesail all the way to the point of attachment and you may wish to run a trace-wire or extend a chain across this distance. Unless this is really necessary I recommend against it. The main reason is that it allows the shadesail to flap more than it ordinarily would if it was attached close to the eyebolt with a turnbuckle. If this is something you need to do, make sure you get the manufacturer to scale it back for you. Specify when you send in your measurements that you want the shadesail to start [1.2 metres] back from the eyebolt at corner B. Don’t you take the measurement 1.2 metres back from the eyebolt yourself – you will most certainly run into difficulties. Most shadesail manufacturers today use computers to pattern the final shape of the fabric and this ensures that the correct angles are calculated.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 6: Fitting The Shadesail This is the fun bit and its what you’ve done all the proceeding work for. You should have your shadesail up and in position within an hour or so of starting work. Even after all these years I still get a thrill when fitting a shadesail and pulling it up so that it tensions just perfectly. Immediately the whole landscape around that area is transformed and you’ve created something architectural, beautiful and functional. Before we get too carried away however, we need to follow the steps here. Carefully remove the sail from the packaging. Do not open a box with a Stanley Knife as you may inadvertently cut the shadecloth fabric. Before laying the sail out on the ground clear away all dirt or debris which may mark the fabric. Check that there are no sharp objects or edges which could snag the fabric and cause it to pull. Orient the sail using by taking the corner tag to the point of the sail that you specified. Make sure that the hem of the shadesail is underneath (of if you specified it to be on top then make sure it’s to the sky). Assuming you’re using turnbuckles for tensioning and these should now be fully extended and the threads should be well lubricated to avoid thread galling.
Stainless Steel turnbuckles must always be lubricated before use. If they are not lubricated as soon as the tension is applied they can heat up and seize.
Using correctly maintained safety equipment and/or a ladder, work to the high point(s) first. Attach the turnbuckle(s) to the attachment point(s) and then onto the sail corner(s). Next attach the fully extended turnbuckle(s) to the low attachment points and onto the edge ring(s) of the shade-sail. Usually, the last USEFUL TIP attachment point will be tight and you will It’s common to use the lacing itself instead to secure need some form of the sail instead of even mechanical fitting a turnbuckle. It allows advantage such as a the corner of the sail to get strap or rope to bring even closer to the the edge of the sail attachment point as well as to the hook of the making it very quick to take turnbuckle. With the sail down if need be. smaller sails a lacing works well where you simply run a thin strong cord between the eyebolt and the ring on the shadesail a few times. This essentially acts like a block and tackle and allows you to get 3 to 4 times the pulling power to pull the corner up close enough to attach the turnbuckle. It’s quite common for this lacing to be left in position instead of using a turnbuckle at all. This method is widely used in cyclone prone areas because it makes is really quick to remove the sails – you just cut the lacing! If you’re planning to leave the lacing in place it should be be UV stabilised. For smaller sails I’ve used a 3.0mm ‘nylon starter cord’ (used to replace lawnmower starter ropes I think) that I picked up from a hardware store but has only lasted a couple of years before deteriorating.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Tensioning Larger Shadesails With larger shadesails pulling up the final corners can take considerably more force. In this instance you may need to bring in some more serious hardware. ‘Cum-a-long’ winch units like this one are commonly used by professional shadesail installers to tension up bigger sails. Usually how it’s done is a strong wire rope is fed up from the ground and through the eyebolt of the column (or through a pulley attached to the eyebolt). This end is attached to the corner of the sail whilst the other end is attached to the cum-along. The cum-a-long itself is then anchored to a solid object (such as a car or the diagonally opposite column) and the sail is slowly and carefully cranked into position. In this example you can see we’ve attached a pulley to the eyebolt and are using a wire rope attached to the sail corner, back through the pulley and onto the cum-a-long. The cum-along is anchored to the diagonally opposite post. We very slowly and very carefully crank the shadesail corner up close enough to attach it onto the eyebolt. Whether it’s a small or large shadesail, it is usually going to be tight to fit the first time and this is quite normal. The industry adage is “No fight – not tight.” When I’m fitting shadesails that are tight I like to take it very slowly, crank it up a bit, let the fabric relax and stretch into place and then crank it a bit more until it’s where it needs to be. Obviously if it is too tight and you think something is going to break or give-way, STOP and contact the manufacturer for further instruction. Having said that, a lot of DIY’ers underestimate how tight the sail will be at the first installation. Once all turnbuckles are hooked onto the sail, slowly screw them in moving around the sail and doing a little at a time at each corner. The job will be complete when the sail is taut across is entire surface and the edges are tight and spring back into position when flicked. Lock off all the turnbuckle nuts and give the sail a final check. I’ve been in the habit of getting a piece of light wire and threading it through the eyebolt of any D-shackles I use just to stop them ever coming lose. Check that all attachment points are secure and the job is done.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Chapter 7: Shadesail Maintenance One of the great things about shadesails is that they are very low maintenance once installed. Like anything, however, doing some simple routine maintenance will ensure you the best value and longest life from your shadesail. Here is a list of things I would recommend you do to get the best out of your shadesail: •
•
•
•
•
• •
About a month (shorter if it’s been windy) after you’ve installed your shadesails you should carefully inspect it to see if it needs additional tension. This is normal. The fabric is very tight when it is first installed and as you will have found out, it requires considerable tensioning to get it right the first time. After a month of wind, rain and sun however, the material will have loosened up bit and will most probably benefit from a small bit of additional tension. This shouldn’t be a big job but it is important and ensuring the sail is always taut will not only make it look better, it will significantly increase the lifespan. Every now and again it is a good idea to inspect all the attachment points. Check that the turnbuckles are tight, that the pins of the shackles are still securely in place and that any plates or brackets are in good order. Inspect the columns to see that there has been no movement. All these things are important both from an aesthetic and a safety perspective. This photo is of a D-Shackle I removed from a shadesail in a schoolyard and as you can see it is almost worn through to the point of failure. The shadesail had been in-situ for around 10 years I was told but had never had any maintenance. Although it was only a medium sized sail (about 6 x 6 metres), over time it had become quite lose and I suspect the flapping of the sail caused the excess rubbing of the shackle pin. If you are in a leafy area it’s a good idea to regularly clean the leaves off the top of the shadesail. If you don’t remove debris the fabric will stain resulting in dark marks across your sail which can spoil its effect. Likewise, any sticks or branches which fall onto the sail should be immediately removed. Shadesails can get dirty over time particularly in areas prone to pollution from cars etc. If your sail begins to show these signs then you may want to consider cleaning it. Beware – do not use any harsh or industrial chemicals as these can badly damage the fabric. If you want to clean your shadesail I recommend taking it down, laying it on a lawn and using warm soapy water and a firm broom for brush. This works well and brings a dirty shadesail virtually back to new (if you have not left it too long!). This can be done whilst the shadesail is still in position however standing beneath the sail and washing upwards is a pretty dirty job. Periodic re-tensioning is recommended. If you notice that the sail is a little looser or moving in the wind more than it has in the past, a quick re-tension is recommended. Another warning: Experience has taught me that using a high pressure water cleaner will damage the shadesail. If too much pressure is applied to an older sail it can result in significant damage. Over the years I’ve had quite a few people bring their sails back for restitching because they have used one of these devices and ripped the threads away from the seams.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Appendices 1. Synthesis Commercial 95 Technical Specification Sheet
Commercial 95
Product Description Commercial 95™ is a high quality knitted shade fabric supplied in bulk rolls, designed for tension structures, awnings and shade covers specifically for commercial architectural applications. Material Yarn Construction Pattern Temperature range
UV stabilised HDPE Monofilament & tape Lock-stitch knitted -30°C to +75°C
Features Strong HDPE fabric won’t rot or absorb moisture. Stentered (heat-set) to reduce shrinkage and for ease of fabrication. 10 year UV degradation warranty on fabric. Engineered in Australia to meet the harsh climate. Usage Instructions Do not use against flames. Contact with organic solvents, halogens or highly acidic substances may reduce the service life of the fabric and void the warranty. Biaxial elastic material properties available on request.
Colour
Code
Aquatic Blue Black Brunswick Green Cherry Red Desert Sand Natural Navy Blue Ochre Red Rivergum Green Sky Blue Steel Grey Turquoise Yellow
308766 415631 308728 415662 308704 308759 308735 415617 308711 415624 415648 308773 415655
Approx. roll weight: Approx. roll diameter: Core diameter:
™
Nom. Width
3.00 m
1.6 mm 737 N/50mm 1592 N/50mm 143 N 203 N 3200 kPa 1758 N
Flammability (AS 1530.2) Flammability Index (range 0-100) 17 AS 1530 Part 2 & 3 certificates available on request Suggested Specification Shadecloth fabric shall be compliant to Australian standard AS 4174 and shall be Synthesis Commercial 95 knitted HDPE monofilament & tape shade fabric offering a UV block up to 98.8%.
Cover Factor
Av. % Transmis.
Shade Factor
50 m
96.7% 95.9% 97.4% 94.9% 96.5% 94.5% 96.4% 95.4% 95.7% 95.2% 97.3% 97.6% 94.6%
11.9% 5.1% 4.4% 19.0% 15.8% 21.1% 4.3% 5.6% 14.2% 5.3% 8.1% 10.4% 23.0%
88.2 94.9 95.6 81.0 84.2 78.9 95.7 94.4 85.8 94.7 91.9 89.6 77.0
55 kg 0.40 m 35 mm
340 gsm ± 20
Performance Tensile Strength - Warp Tensile Strength - Weft (AS 2001.2.3.1) Wing Tear – Warp (mean) Wing Tear – Weft (mean) (AS 2001.2.10) Bursting Pressure (mean) (AS 2001.2.4) Bursting Force (mean) (AS 2001.2.19)
Length
(folded)
Rev.5 02/06
Properties Nominal fabric mass (AS 2001.2.13) Approximate thickness
Av. UVR AV. PAR Transmis. Transmis. 5.8% 4.9% 3.1% 9.0% 5.2% 4.9% 3.2% 3.3% 7.0% 3.2% 3.3% 4.6% 6.7%
13.8% 5.1% 4.8% 21.9% 19.0% 25.9% 4.7% 6.2% 16.3% 5.9% 9.5% 12.2% 27.7%
% UVR Block 94.2% 95.1% 96.9% 91.0% 94.8% 95.1% 98.8% 96.7% 93.0% 96.8% 96.7% 95.4% 93.2%
Tested according to AS 4174 Synthetic Shadecloth Av. % Transmis. = Average % Transmission within the 290-770nm spectrum Av. UVR Transmis. = Average % Transmission within the 290-400nm spectrum Av. PAR Transmis. = Average % Transmission within the 408-770nm spectrum
The above results are typical averages from independent testing and quality assurance testing and are not to be taken as a minimum specification nor as forming any contract between Gale Pacific and another party. Due to continuous product improvement, Product Profiles are subject to alteration without notice. Notice: As the use and disposal of this product are beyond Gale Pacific’s control, regardless of any assistance provided without charge, Gale Pacific assumes no obligation or liability for the suitability of its products in any specific end use application. It is the customer’s responsibility to determine whether Gale Pacific’s products are appropriate for the specific application and complies with any legal & patent regulations.
FOR MORE INFORMATION – PLEASE CONTACT: Australia NZ UAE USA
Gale Pacific Ltd. PO Box 892, Braeside, Victoria, 3195 Gale Pacific (NZ) Ltd. PO Box 15118 Aranui, Christchurch Gale Pacific FZE. PO Box 17696, Jebel Ali, Dubai Gale Pacific Inc. PO Box 951509, Lake Mary, Florida, 32795-1509
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Phone +61 3 9518 3399 Phone +64 3 373 9500 Phone +971 4 881 7114 Phone +1 407 333 1038
Fax +61 3 9518 3398 Fax +64 3 373 9501 Fax +971 4 881 7167 Fax +1 407 333 7716
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy 2. Shadesail Measuring Guides
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy 3. Rafter Bracket Fitting Guide
Rafter Bracket Fitting Guide Brief: Support-bracket designed to be fitted to eaves/rafters of appropriate timber-truss structures to support shadecloth sails not exceeding 5 metre spans. Rated for use in moderate wind conditions only. Kit Components 1 x timber support brace 90 x 40 x 650 mm 1 x steel fascia bracket - powdercoated 2 x metal elbow brackets - pre-drilled 11 x 70 mm coach bolts (1 spare)
Tools Required for fitting Drill with 7mm dia drill bit Timber saw Shifting spanner General tools
Plan View Coach bolts
Rafter
Rafter
Metal Elbow
Timber Brace Not shown to scale
Fascia Board Fascia bracket fitted with coach bolts
Fitting Tips Access internal timber frame by lifting small section of roofline (ie tiles). Measure and cut timber brace so that it fits neatly between rafters. Mark holes so they line-up with pre-drilled holes in metal elbow brackets and drill using a 7 mm drill bit. Screw coach bolts into place as shown. Replace roofing. Fit fascia plate in position and drill through fascia board into timber brace. Attach fascia bracket using coach bolts. Attach shadesail to fascia bracket using appropriate fittings.
Copyright Shade Australia Pty Ltd 2002. Reproduction prohibited without written consent from Shade Australia.
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Contacts & Useful Links
Webshade Webshade.com.au
Excellent resource for shade planning. Plan to have the shade cast exactly where you need it when you need it there. Shade Auditing resource.
Shade Australia
Experienced respected shadesail company.
shadeaustralia.com.au
ARPANSA.gov.au
Homepage of Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency. Useful information about UV protection
Bureau of Meteorology
An excellent resource for accessing date UV radiation readings
Bom.com.au Shadecad http://www.shadecad.com
[email protected]
Great for doing shade planning and design. They can provide cost effective CAD diagrams and shadow plans. Very useful when planning a big project or for submissions to council.
+61 7 54481140
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy Example of a Local Council Shadesail Approval & Requirements
SHADE SAILS SHADE SAILS Building Service Building Service Information Sheet Information Sheet Document No: BS-0025 Introduction This information sheet explains the requirements for the approval and general requirements relating to shade sails. Shade sails are generally constructed with steel columns and shade cloth and can be connected to the roof of a building. They are generally demountable so that they can be taken down in the event of a cyclone. Definitions A shade sail is an area covered by shade cloth or sail material that is water-permeable and is supported by columns and / or the roof of a building. Information and Advice The Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1960 and the Building Regulations 1989 require that a Building Licence be taken out for a building, prior to commencing any work on site. The Building Code of Australia, the Residential Design Codes and the Town Planning Scheme set out the minimum requirements applicable to the location and construction of shade sails. Is a Building Licence required for a shade sail? Yes. A Building Licence approval is required for all shade sails. What plans and specifications do I need to submit with my application for a Building Licence? Two copies of the following plans and details are required: ! "A fully dimensioned site plan is to be submitted, showing the location of the shade sail, in relation to the property boundaries and existing buildings on the property. This plan is to be drawn to a minimum scale of 1:200; !
"Structural details of all materials and fixings of the building are to be shown on the plans;
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy !
"The heights of the sail are to be indicated on the plan also (Maximum height 3.30 metres).
! "Floor plan and elevations of the shade sail, drawn to a scale of 1:100 minimum, are to be submitted with the Building Licence application. Who submits the application? Either the property owner or the party contracted to construct the shade sail must submit the application. What materials must be used to construct a shade sail? A shade sail is to be constructed to withstand Region D, Terrain Category 2 cyclonic conditions and, as such, a durable material must be used. Generally, for shade sails to comply with the structural requirements for cyclonic conditions, the supports are normally made from steel construction. Do I need a Structural Engineer’s design for the shade sail? Yes. What is the maximum size Shade Sail that I can have? ! The maximum area of a shade sail permitted on a Residential property is 10% of the area of the property, up to a maximum of 120 m2. The maximum area is an aggregate of all outbuildings on the property. How far from the boundary of a property can I locate a shade sail? ! "The shade sail must be located no closer to the boundary facing the primary street than 1.5 metres, subject to a minimum of 5 metres being maintained from the shade sail to any current or planned footpath. ! "The shade sail must be located a minimum of 1.5 metres from any secondary street boundary. ! "The shade sail is to be located a minimum of 1 metre from the side or rear boundary, if the length of the shade sail or does not exceed 9 metres. Note 1 - The set backs mentioned above are based on the shade sail posts not exceeding a height of 3.3 metres. Can I build the Shade Sail as an Owner Builder? Y es, but you can only construct a building of this nature as an Owner Builder if the value of construction is $20,000 or less. If the value exceeds this amount, a registered builder will need to be engaged to obtain the Building Licence and carry out the work. Fees R efer to the Development Services Fees and Charges Information Sheet for further information. Fines and Penalties F ailure to obtain a Building Licence for a shade sail is an offence under the Local Government (Miscellaneous Provisions) Act 1960. The Shire may choose to prosecute for failure to obtain a Building Licence. The maximum penalty for this offence is $5000. The Shire may also serve a Notice on the owner or builder to remove the structure. If you object to the local government’s order you may have a right of review to the State Administrative Tribunal. Additional Information F or detailed advice about shade sails, please call the Shire of Roebourne Building Services on 9186 8569. Requirement Checklist Notes #
"A Building Licence is required before commencing any work;
#
"A Building Licence is required for all shade sails;
# "A Practicing Structural Engineer’s certified detail is required for the shade sail relevant to Region D, Category 2 cyclonic wind conditions; # "A full site plan, drawn to a scale of 1:200 minimum, is to be submitted with the Building Licence Application, showing heights and setbacks of the shade sail posts; # "A separate Planning Approval may be required if the property is zoned other than ‘Residential’. # "Floor plan and elevations of the shade sail, drawn to a scale of 1:100 minimum, are to be submitted with the Building Licence application. Disclaimer This information
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DIY Shade – Shadesails Made Easy sheet is provided as generalised information. While we aim to keep the content of this document current and accurate, we accept no responsibility or warranties for actions based on the information provided. The Shire of Roebourne encourages you to seek professional advice before acting on any information contained within this document. Please contact the Shire of Roebourne if you wish to comment on the forms provided and information contained within. Any reported errors will be amended.
Last Reviewed: October 2008 Responsible Officer: Manager Building Services
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