Master Class "Fawn": Author - Lysova Kristina @happiness - by - Kris

Translated from Russian to English - www.onlinedoctranslator.com

Master Class “Fawn”

Author – Lysova Kristina @happiness_by_kris

Dear craftswomen!

This master class is developed by @happiness_by_kris and is intended for your personal use only! Distribution and copying of this document is prohibited under Copyright Law. You can sell your toys related to this master class and dispose of them at your own request, but when publishing photos of your works, please indicate the author @happiness_by_kris. List of abbreviations: KA - amigurmi ring RLS - single crochet; Dc – double crochet; Ss2n – double crochet stitch; PSN – half double crochet; Pr – increase; Dec – decrease

VP – air loop; СС – connecting post

2

List of recommended materials

1. Yarn: Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/160 m) - No. 71 (cocoa) – main body color;

- No. 66 (burgundy) - dress, shoes and headband;

- No. 01 (white) – socks, eyes; - No. 05 (light beige) - horns, cheeks;

- No. 53 (black) – eyelashes, eyebrows. 2. Hook No. 1.75 - No. 2 3. A needle for sewing parts (preferably with a blunt end) and a long needle for tightening the muzzle (I have a needle for documents);

5. Eyes on a safe mount with a diameter of 9 mm; 6. Filler for a toy (I have holofiber). 7. Scissors.

When using all recommended materials, the toy is 27-28 cm high (including horns). Attention!The height of the toy greatly depends on the density of the knitting. I knit It’s quite loose, so I use a smaller hook (No. 1.75). In addition, I fill all the parts with holofiber very tightly so that the toy holds its shape better. If the density of your knitting is high, then it is better to take a slightly larger hook (No. 2-2.25).

3

Legs and torso We start knitting in burgundy color:

1) 6 sc in ka 2) 6 pr (12)

3) (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15) 4) (4 sc, inc) x 4 (18) 5-6) 18 sc – 2 rows (18), change the thread to white yarn (as indicated in the photo), cut off the burgundy thread, hide the tip.

Changing thread

7) We continue to knit with white yarn: 18 sc behind the back wall of the loop

(18)

8) (4 sc, dec) x 3 (15) 9) (3 sc, dec) x 3 (12)

10-16) 12 sc – 7 rows, additionally knit 3 more sc (displacement loops) and change the thread to brown yarn. The white thread 4

do not cut it off, bring it down (as shown in the photo) and continue knitting in brown:

17) behind the back wall of the loop: 12 sc (12)

At this stage we stuff the leg, then we stuff it as we knit it. We leave the brown thread, return to the white one and make a frill for the socks. We will knit using the white half-loops that we formed when knitting the 17th row. Insert the hook into the first half-loop, pick up the white thread, make 1 ch and 1 sc in the same half-loop. Next we make 2 sc in each half loop to the end, ss. We cut off the white thread and hide the tip. We do the same on the second leg.

Let's return to knitting with brown yarn: 18-22) 12 sc – 5 rows. Stuff the leg to the end and cut off the thread. We knit the second leg in exactly the same way, but we do not cut off the thread, but continue to knit. We connect both legs to each other:

5

23) 6 sc around the second leg (this is necessary so that the places where the threads are changed are at the back), 7 ch, insert the hook into the first leg (the first loop of the new row), 12 sc around the first leg, 7 sc (along the chain of ch), 6 sc around the second leg. Here we leave a marker to indicate the new beginning of the row. (38)

24) 18 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (40) 25) (9 sc, inc) x 4 (44)

26) 44 sc 27) (10 sc, inc) x 4 (48)

28) 48 sc 29-31) 48 sc – 3 rows (48) 32) (22 sc, dec) x 2 (46) 33) (21 sc, dec) x 2 (44)

34) 44 sc 35) (20 sc, dec) x 2 (42)

36) 42 sc 37) (19 sc, dec) x 2 (40) 38) (18 sc, dec) x 2 (38) 39) (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36) 6

40) (16 sc, dec) x 2 (34) 41) (15 sc, dec) x 2 (32) 42) (14 sc, dec) x 2 (30) 43) (13 sc, dec) x 2 (28) 44) (12 sc, dec) x 2 (26) 45) (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)

46) (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18). Cut the thread, leaving a long tip for sewing on the head

We fill the body as we knit Making ties for shoes: On the side, on the outside, we find the center of the shoe and insert the hook into the burgundy half-loop that was formed when knitting the 7th row.

7

We hook the burgundy thread with a hook and make 55 ch. Make a knot at the end of the first tie and cut off the thread. We insert the hook into the same half-loop again and make the second tie in the same way. The ties are ready, wrap them around the leg and make a bow. We also make ties on the second shoe.

Head 1) 6 sc in ka 2) 6 pr (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) 4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24) 5) (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30) 6) (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36) 8

7) (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8) 42 sc 9) (13 sc, inc) x 3 (45) 10) (14 sc, inc) x 3 (48) 11-13) 48 sc – 3 rows 14) (15 sc, inc) x 3 (51) 15) (16 sc, inc) x 3 (54) 16) (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60) 17-22) 60 – 6 rows We insert the eyes between the 16th and 17th rows at a distance of 9 sc – 10 sc.

23) (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54) 24) (7sc, dec) x 6 (48) 25) (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42) 26) (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36) 27) (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) We begin to stuff the head tightly with filler. I stuff especially tightly, starting from the 17th row, so that the cheeks are formed. 28) (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) 29) (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18). Cut the thread and hide the end.

Sew the head to the body. 9

Sew the head to the body loop to loop. We have 18 stitches left when knitting the head and 18 loops when knitting the body, so we will make 18 stitches in total. To sew the head to the body as evenly as possible, bring the tip of the thread that remained when knitting the body to the center. Align the center of the body with the center of the head and begin stitching.

In the process, fill the neck area well with filler.

Eye tightening

It consists of 2 stages:

I do stage 1 in the same way as tightening all my other toys (if anyone has other master classes, then we do the same thing).

Pull the eyes down: To tighten, use a long needle and insert a long body-colored thread into it. 1. Insert the needle into the center of the neck, bring it to the center of the outer part of the first eye; 2. We insert the needle into the center of the inner part of the same eye, and remove the needle to the same place on the neck where it was inserted the first time;

3. A loop has formed, tighten it; 4. We insert a needle with the same thread into the neck area, in the same place, but one loop to the right of the place where we initially inserted. We bring it to the center of the outer part of the second eye;

5. We insert the needle into the center of the inside of the second eye and bring it out to the neck area. A loop has formed, tighten it;

10

6. Pull well first on one end of the thread, then on the other. If the eyes are not in a symmetrical position, then we correct them manually.

eleven

At this stage, you can leave the tightening as is. But I do the 2nd stage, I pull the eyes towards the center (photos 7 and 8). I continue to work with the same thread: 1. I insert the needle into the center of the neck, bring it out to the center of the upper part of the first eye;

2. I insert the needle into the center of the lower part of the first eye and bring it out to the neck area. A loop has formed, we tighten it, but from the side of the muzzle.

3. We do the same with the second eye. This way the eyes are drawn in as deeply as possible and beautiful cheeks are formed.

We tie the ends of the threads that remain after tightening together, cut them off and hide them inside the head.

This is what should happen

12

Muzzle 1) 6 sc in ka 2) 6 pr (12)

3) (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) 4) (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

5) 24 sc, ss

Horns

Consist of two parts. First we knit the big piece: 1) 6 sc in ka

2) inc, 5 sc (7) 3-5) 7 sc – 3 rows, ss. Cut the thread, hide the end

13

Small detail: 1) 6 sc in ka

2) inc, 6 sc (7) 3-4) 7 sc. We do not cut the thread, insert the hook into the larger piece (loop following the ss)

5) 7 sc around the large part, 7 sc around the small part (14) 6) (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) 7) (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

8) (3 sc, dec) x 2, ss. Cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

14

We knit the second horn in the same way

Ears 1) 6 sc in ka 2) 6 pr (12)

3) 12 sc 4) (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

Fold the eyelet in half, knit 4 sc on both sides. Fold again and sew.

Handles (2 parts)

1) 6 sc in ka 2) 6 pr (12)

3) (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14) 15

4-5) 14 sc – 2 rows 6) (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) 7) (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10) Fill the pen. Starting from the 8th row, do not stuff the handle.

8-17) 10 sc – 10 rows. Fold the handle, knit 4 sc on both sides, cut the thread, leave the tip for sewing.

Assembly

1. Sew the muzzle between 18 – 23 rows of the head; 2. Using black thread, we embroider the nose between the 4th and 5th rows of the muzzle. 3. With white thread we embroider the whites of the eyes, with black thread - eyelashes, eyebrows at the level of the 12th row of the head.

4. We embroider the cheeks with beige thread (No. 05) between the 19th and 20th rows of the head.

16

5. Sew the horns between 4-6 rows of the head. The horns should be positioned with the larger part towards the center.

6. Sew on the ears at the level of 10-11 rows of the head

17

7. Sew the handles between the 44th and 45th rows of the head.

Headband with bow 1. Cast on a chain of 68 chains (your meaning may be different, try it on the deer’s head. The main thing is that the bandage holds well and does not fall off), connect it in a circle.

2. Bow. Dial 22 in ssn, 2 ss2n in

th loops from the hook: ss, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 1 hdc, 1 sc, ss, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1

ss2n, 2 ss2n

, 1 sc, ss, 1 ch.

Turning over ss2n in one p ss2n in one p

On the other side: ss, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2, 1 dc, ss, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 dc2n, 2 dc. Cut the thread and hide it.

3. Take a ban

bandage with thread of the same color.

4. To ban

It is better to iron it with an iron.

18

Dress 1) Dial 37 ch; Next we knit in turning rows. 2) We start knitting from the 2nd loop from the hook and form the sleeves: skip 5 sc, 7 ch, 7 loops, insert the hook into the 8th and knit 12 sc, 7 ch, skip 7 loops, insert the hook into the 8th and knit another 5 sc (36 )

3) ch 1 (we don’t count as the first column), 5 sc, 7 sc in a chain of ch, 12 sc, 7 sc in a chain of ch, 5 sc (36)

4-5) 36 sc – 2 rows, start each new row with 1 ch (do not count as the first column); 6) 1 ch, (2sc, inc) x 12 (48) 7) ch 2, increase 3 dc in each loop to the end of the row. 19

If you want to make the skirt less fluffy, then make 2 dc in each loop. 8) 2 ch, (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) - in one loop, skip 1 sc, (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) - in one loop, skip 1 sc - so we knit until the end of the row. At the end we make 1 dc (further in the same way);

9) Here we continue to knit with the same pattern as in the 8th row, but we knit the combination of (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) under the ch of the previous row (the one between two dc), and we skip the remaining loops (see photo).

That is: 2 ch, (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) – under the ch of the previous row, skip 2 loops of the previous row, (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) – under the ch, skip 2 loops, (1 dc, ch, 1 dc) - under ch, skip 2 loops - so until the end. At the end 1 dc.

20

21

10-12) We knit 3 more rows like this.

We do not cut the thread, we continue knitting. We tie the first side of the dress with a ss, reach the neckline and knit 36 ch (the first tie). We make a knot at the end and cut off the thread.

Next we make the second tie. First we cast on 36 ch, then we attach it to the neckline and tie the second side of the dress with a ss. We don’t cut the thread, we use it to sew the dress on both sides using the ss with which we made the binding. If you need the dress to be removed from the toy, then it will be enough to sew 1.5-2 cm. At the end of the second tie we make a knot, cut off all the threads, and hide it. The dress is ready!

22

Your fawn is ready!

23