Bears Michelle and Martin

April 2023

Bears Michelle and Martin Crochet Pattern

Designer Evgenia Pologutina @igrushki.22

Hello, my friend! My name is Evgenia. If you have purchased this pattern, then you are ready for magic! Sit back, grab your crochet hook and the softest, most comfortable skeins of yarn you'll need. I'm sure you'll be able to create something special. I also want to remind you that this pattern is my property. All rights reserved. It is intended for personal use only. Its distribution, full or partial copying, sale or exchange are prohibited. When publishing your works made with this pattern on social media, I will be very happy if you indicate me as the designer: @igrushki.22. Let's respect each other's work! Happy crocheting

♥️

Best wishes, Evgenia P. 2

Tools & Materials: 1. Yarn Michelle: — DK Light Worsted/8ply yarn Alize Alpaca Royal (100 g/ 250 m) color #152 for the body; — Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold Tweed (100 g/ 330 m) color #62 - for the top and sandals; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #18 - for the shorts; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #67 for soloha headband and sandals; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #87 - for the bag and sandals; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #83 - for the cheeks; — Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold (100 g/ 330 m) color #522 - for the ties. Martin: — DK Light Worsted/8ply yarn Alize Alpaca Royal new (100 g/ 250 m) color #695 for the body; — Fine/4ply yarn Alize Cotton Gold (100 g/ 330 m) color #26 - for the shorts and slippers; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #03 - for the T-short and slippers; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #87 for the T-shirt; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #07 - for the pompoms; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #71 - for the pompoms and ties; — Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Jeans (50 g/ 160 m) color #83 - for the cheeks. 3

2. Hook size 2 mm; 3. Stuffing material – fiberfill; 4. Eyes size 7 mm; 5. Black cotton thread to embroider the nose and eyebrows; 6. Thick and thin needle for sewing pieces; 7. Scissors; 8. Sewing pins; 9. Stitch marker (I have a thread in a contrasting color); 10. Buttons size 9 mm - 2 pcs.; 11. Button size 6 mm (for the soloha); 12. Paper tape or adhesive plaster; 13. Wire; 14. White thread to embroider the whites of the eyes.

The pattern does not contain crochet lessons and is designed for those who have basic crochet skills. The difficulty level - intermediate. The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 20-21 cm.

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Abbreviations:

MR - magic ring; sc – single crochet; sl st - slip stitch; inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch); dec – decrease (2 sc together in front loops); 3 sc inc - crochet 3 sc in one stitch; ch – chain; dc - double crochet; dcinc - double crochet increase (2 dc in one stitch); tr - treble crochet; hdc - half double crochet; hdcinc - half double crochet increase (2 hdc in one stitch); Bobble st - crochet the indicated number of unfinished DC stitches in one stitch with a common top; (...) * N - work instruction in brackets N times; (N) - number of stitches in a particular row/round.

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Head: Crochet with the main yarn. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR 2 Rnd. 6 inc (12) 3 Rnd. (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 4 Rnd. 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 5 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 6 Rnd. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36) 7 Rnd. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 8 Rnd. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48) 9 Rnd. (7 sc, inc)*6 (54) 10 Rnd. 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (60) 11-22 Rnds. 60 sc (12 rounds) 23 Rnd. 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*5, 4 sc (54) 24 Rnd. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48) 25 Rnd. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42) 26 Rnd. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 27 Rnd. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30) 28 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Stuff the head tightly with fiberfill.

Ears (make 2): Do not stuff. Crochet with the main yarn. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR 2 Rnd. 6 inc (12) 3 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15) 4 Rnd. 15 sc 5 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)*3 (12) Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

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Arms (make 2): Prepare 2 pieces of wire 20 cm long in advance, bend one end, as per the photo, and wrap it with paper tape or adhesive plaster.

Right arm. Crochet with the main yarn. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR 2 Rnd. 6 inc (12) 3 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)*3 (15) 4 Rnd. 15 sc 5 Rnd. 4-dc Bobble st, 14 sc (15) 6 Rnd. dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc (13) 7 Rnd. dec, 5 sc, dec, 4 sc (11)

Insert a wire into the arm and stuff it with fiberfill. Continue crocheting the arm, stuffing as you go. Do not stuff the upper arm.

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8-26 Rnds. 11 sc (19 rounds) Crochet 2 extra sc (you may have a different number of stitches) so that the thumb is on the side, when flatten the arm in half. Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside.

Crochet the left arm in the same way, except round 5: 5 Rnd. 7 sc, 4-dc Bobble st, 7 sc (15)

Muzzle: Crochet with the main yarn. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR 2 Rnd. 6 inc (12) 3 Rnd. 2 sc, (3 sc inc)*2, 4 sc, (3 sc inc)*2, 2 sc (20) 4 Rnd. 4 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc (26) 5-6 Rnds. 26 sc Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Cheeks (make 2): Crochet with pink yarn. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

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Legs & Body: Crochet with the main yarn. Stuff tightly as you go. Ch6. 1 Rnd. start on the second chain from the hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3 sc, inc (12) 2 Rnd. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18) 3 Rnd. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (24) 4 Rnd. 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*2 (30) 5-7 Rnds. 30 sc (3 rounds) 8 Rnd. 6 sc, (dec, 1 sc)*6, 6 sc (24) 9 Rnd. 5 sc, 6 dec, 7 sc (18) 10 Rnd. 6 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (16) 11-14 Rnds. 16 sc (4 rounds) 15 Rnd. (3 sc, inc)*4 (20) 16-17 Rnds. 20 sc (2 rounds)

Crochet a few extra sc so that the marker is on the side (I have 5 sc). The legs should look at each other. Finish crocheting with sl st, fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside.

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Crochet the second leg in the same way as the first, only after Rnd 17 work a few extra sc (I have 13 sc). Do not cut the yarn, but continue to crochet the body. Stuff with fiberfill as you go. 18 Rnd. ch6 from the second leg, join the first leg with sl st, in the next stitch after sl st on the first leg and place a marker (make sure that the legs look at each other). Next, 20 sc on the first leg, 6 sc on the chain, 20 sc on the second leg, 6 sc on the chain (52)

19 Rnd. 20 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 20 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3 (58) 20 Rnd. 9 sc, inc, 28 sc, inc, 19 sc (60)

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21 Rnd. (9 sc, inc)*6 (66) 22 - 31 Rnds. 66 sc (10 rounds) 32 Rnd. (20 sc, dec)*3 (63) 33 Rnd. (19 sc, dec)*3 (60) 34-35 Rnds. 60 sc (2 rounds) 36 Rnd. (18 sc, dec)*3 (57) 37 Rnd. (17 sc, dec)*3 (54) 38 Rnd. 54 sc 39 Rnd. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48) 40 Rnd. 48 sc 41 Rnd. (6 sc, dec)*6 (42) 42-43 Rnds. 42 sc (2 rounds) Stuff tightly as you go. 44 Rnd. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 45 Rnd. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)

In the next round, join the arms. Make sure that they are symmetrical, you may have a different distribution of stitches.

46 Rnd. 6 sc on the body, 5 sc on the inner part of the arm and body, 10 sc on the body, 5 sc on the inner part of the arm and body, 4 sc on the body (30) 47 Rnd. 6 sc on the body, (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) on the outer part of the arm, 10 sc on the body, (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) on the outer part of the arm, 4 sc on the body (30)

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Connect the two ends of the wire together and wrap them with paper tape or adhesive plaster.

48 Rnd. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 49 Rnd. 24 sc Crochet a few extra sc to finish on the side. Fasten off and cut the yarn, hide the ends inside.

Tail: Crochet with the main yarn Do not stuff. 1 Rnd. 6 sc in a MR 2 Rnd. 6 inc (12) 3 Rnd. 6 dec (6) Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

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Decoration & Assembly: Decorate the head. Fix the muzzle to the head between rounds 17 and 28 with pins and sew as shown in the photo. Stuff with fiberfill in the process.

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Glue the eyes between rounds 18 and 19, the distance between them is 8 sc (visible distance). I used safety eyes. First, use a sushi stick to make holes in the places where the eyes are attached, then use a hot glue gun to apply a little hot glue to the holes and insert the legs of the eyes. If desired, you can preinsert the safety eyes and secure them with washers.

Sew the nose with a black cotton thread between rounds 5 and 6 of the muzzle. Nose width 3 sc. Make 2 horizontal stitches, then wrap the nose with vertical stitches with the same thread, inserting the needle from the bottom up. Wind the thread around stitches until you reach the desired thickness. Make a vertical stitch from the nose down (6-7 rounds long).

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Make eyes needle sculpting, focusing on the photo. Insert the needle with the thread through the base of the head and exit it through point 1. Then insert the needle into point 2 and exit it through the base of the head. Pull both threads and tie a knot. For strength, repeat the tightening.

Similarly, tighten the second eye, but in this case, exit the needle and thread through the base of the head at point 4. Then insert the needle into point 3 and exit it again through the base. Pull both threads and tie a knot. For strength, repeat the tightening.

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Embroider the eyebrows with a black thread in round 15, the distance between them is 10 sc, the width is 2 sc. Then embroider the eyelids with a black thread.

Using a white thread, make stitches near the eyes to make the look more expressive.

Fix the ears with pins on the sides of the head between rounds 8 and 15 and sew them on.

Exit all the extra threads through the base of the head, tie knots and cut. 16

Fix the cheeks with pins between rounds 19 and 22 and sew them on.

Fix the head to the body with pins and start sewing in a circle. When a small hole remains, add fiberfill between the head and neck, then sew to the end.

Sew the tail in the middle of the back between rounds 27 and 30.

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Your bear is ready! Now let's start crocheting clothes.

Top for Michelle: Crochet with light beige color. Work in rows. Finish each row with 1 turning chain and start a new row from the second stitch on the hook. Work from the bottom up. After you crochet the first two rows, try on the workpiece on the bear. If it is small or large, change the hook size accordingly. Ch70 + 1 turning chain. 1-2 Rows. 70 sc (2 rows) 3 Row. (dec, 5 sc)*10 (60) 4-6 Rows. 60 sc (3 rows) 7 Row. (4 sc, dec)*10 (50) 8-9 Rows. 50 sc (2 rows)

In the next row crochet the straps. 10 Rnd. 8 sc, ch12, skip 9 sc, 16 sc, ch12, skip 9 sc, 8 sc (56) 11 Rnd. on the main part 8 sc, on the strap: (dcinc, 3 dc in one chain)*6, on the main part 16 sc, on the strap: (dcinc, 3 dc in one chain)*6, 8 sc (92)

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Next, crochet around the sides, the hem and form button loops. 1. on the first side: 11 sl st, 2 turning chains 2. on the hem from the 3rd stitch: (3 dc in one stitch)*70, 2 turning chains (210)

Make button loops in the next row (if you have a different button size, adjust the size of the button loops yourself). 3. on the second side: 2 sl st, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 6 sl st, ch4, skip 1 stitch, sl st (17) Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on buttons.

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The warmth of hands in every loop ...

T-shirt for Martin: For the photo of the process, I used black and white yarn. In the main photo, Martin is wearing a cream and beige T-shirt. You can use any option you like. Work in rows. Finish each row with 1 turning chain and start a new row from the second stitch on the hook. Work from the bottom up. After you crochet the first 6-7 rows, try on the workpiece on the bear. If it is small or large, change the hook size accordingly. Ch36 + 1 turning chain 1 Row. 36 sc 2 Row. (1 sc, inc)*18 (54) Change color when crocheting the last stitch. 3-4 Rows. 54 sc (2 rows), change color 5 Row. 54 sc 6 Row. (8 sc, inc)*6 (60), change color Form sleeves in the next row.

7 Row. 10 sc, ch5, skip 10 sc, 20 sc, ch 5, skip 10 sc, 10 sc (50) 8 Row. 50 sc, change color 9 Row. (4 sc, inc)*10 (60) 10 Row. 60 sc, change color 11 Row. (inc, 5 sc)*10 (70) 12 Row. 70 sc, change color 13 Row. 70 sc Next, crochet around the sides and form button loops (if you have a different button size, adjust the size of the button loops yourself). 22

1. on the first side: 3 sc, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 6 sc, ch4, skip 1 stitch, 2 dc (19) 2. on the neckline: 36 sl st (36) 3. on the second side: 13 sc (13) Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on buttons.

Shorts: Crochet with pink yarn. Work in rounds. Finish each round with sl st and start with ch2. Work from the bottom up. Ch25, connect in a circle with sl st, ch2. 1st pant leg. 1-2 Rnds. 25 sc (2 rounds) Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Crochet the 2nd pant leg in the same way, do not cut the yarn. From the second leg, ch2 and attach to the first leg with sl st, place a marker (there will be the beginning of the round), ch2. 23

3 Rnd. 25 sc on the first leg, 1 dc into ch in the previous round (to prevent gaps), 2 dcinc on the chain, 25 dc on the second leg, 1 dc into ch in the previous round, 2 dcinc on the chain (60)

4-7 Rnds. 60 dc (4 rounds) Leave a hole for the tail in the next round. 8 Rnd. 57 dc, ch3, skip 3 stitches, sl st, ch1 (60) 9 Rnd. 60 dc 10 Rnd. 60 sc in back loops 11 Rnd. 60 sc Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Ties for shorts. Attach the mint yarn to round 9 and work in front loops. Make sure that the ties are located in front of the shorts, in the middle. You may need to adjust their location yourself.

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1 Row. 32 sl st, ch30, from the second chain on the hook: 29 sl st, sl st into the same loop on the shorts, 2 sl st, ch30, from the second chain on the hook: 29 sl st, sl st into the same loop on the shorts, 26 sl st Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Shorts for Martin are crocheted in the same way. If desired, the ties can be made a little shorter.

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Sandals for Michelle (make 2): Sole. Crochet with beige yarn. Work in rounds. Finish each round with sl st and start with ch1. 1 Rnd. ch6, start in the second chain from the hook: hdcinc, 3 hdc, 4 hdc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3 hdc, hdcinc (14) 2 Rnd. 2 hdcinc, 3 hdc, 4 hdcinc, 3 hdc, 2 hdcinc (22) 3 Rnd. (hdc, hdcinc)*2, 3 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc)*4, 3 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc)*2 (30)

Change color to light beige when crocheting the last stitch. Fasten off and cut the beige yarn, weave in the ends. Next, work around with sl st. 4 Rnd. 30 sl st Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

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Sandal straps. Crochet with yellow yarn. On the wrong side of the sole, mark points 1, 2, 3, 4 as shown in the photo. The distance between points 1 and 2 is 4 stitches, between points 1 and 3 - 10 stitches, between points 3 and 4 - 4 stitches, between points 2 and 4 - 8 stitches. Attach the thread to point 2 in both loops, as shown in the photo. Ch18, then attach the chain to point 3, also in both loops, as in the photo. Work 18 sl st on the chain, returning to point 2. Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

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Crochet the second strap in the same way, but you need to attach the yarn first to point 4, then to point 1 and back to point 4.

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Slippers for Martin (make 2): Slippers are crocheted in the same way as sandals for Michelle, except for the straps. Crochet the sole with dark brown yarn and crochet around with beige yarn with sl st.

Top part. Crochet with light beige yarn. Ch18 + 1 turning chain. Leave the yarn end about 15 cm long at the beginning. Work in rows, finish each row with - 1 turning chain and start a new row from the second stitch on the hook. 1-2 Rows. 18 sc (2 rows) Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing.

Fix the upper part of the slippers to the sole with pins, as shown in the photo, and sew. Fix the threads and weave in the ends.

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Bag for Michelle: Crochet with beige yarn. Ch10. 1 Rnd. Start in the second chain from the hook: inc, 7 sc, 4 sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 7 sc, inc (22) 2 Rnd. 2 inc, 7 sc, 4 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc (30) 3 Rnd. 30 sc in back loops 4-11 Rnds. 30 sc (8 rounds)

Next, crochet the flap on only one side of the bag in rows, finish each row with - 1 turning chain and start a new row from the second stitch on the hook. 12-16 Rows. 14 sc (5 rows)

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In the next row, make a button loop (if you have a different button size, adjust the size of the button loops yourself). 17 Row. 7 sc, ch3, 7 sc (17)

Without cutting the yarn, work on one side of the flap 6 sl st, then sl st in the first stitch of round 11 of the bag.

Without cutting the yarn, make the handle of the bag. Ch55, then sl st in the stitch 16 in round 11 of the bag.

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And then work on the other side of the flap 6 sl st. Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Using a needle with a light beige thread, make a decorative seam as in the photo. Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends. Sew on a button.

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Soloha headband for Michelle: Crochet with yellow yarn. Ch90 + 1 turning chain. 1 Rnd. start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, 72 sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (90) 2 Rnd. on the other side of the foundation chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, 72 sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (90) Fasten off and cut the yarn, weave in the ends.

Pompoms for Martin (make 2): The diameter of the pompom should be about 2 cm. If you have a special device for making pompoms, use it. I used the easiest way. Take beige yarn. 1. Holding the tip of the thread, wrap the yarn around 2 fingers until the workpiece is quite thick. Cut the thread. 2. Remove the workpiece from the fingers. Cut the thread about 40 cm (this will be a tie around the neck) and tie the workpiece tightly in the middle.

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3. Cut the threads on all sides along the fold. 4. Trim the pompom with scissors, giving it a rounded shape.

Similarly, make the second brown pompom and tie them together.

You have done all the clothes for the bears Michelle and Martin! Now you can dress them up!

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Details…

Details…

Congrats! Your Michelle & Martin are ready!

I hope you had positive emotions while creating these wonderful bears and were satisfied with the result. Thank you for crocheting with me! See you soon!